CCM Riders - Technical Archive - Modifying the Keihin ... http://ccmriders.eu/index.php?option=com_content&tas...

CCM 404 Tuning by Lawman

Modifying the Keihin FCR 39 Accelerator Pump

I read a lot and tinker a lot especially with the carb, the heart of the machine. Here is a simple
mod that should improve throttle response that costs pennies and took me about 40 minutes to
do.

An accelerator pump is basically a device on the carb that produces a short squirt of neat fuel
directly into the inlet when the throttle is opened rapidly from a low opening. It does this to
make up for the inadequacies of fueling when the throttle is opened in this manner. It effectively
temporarily enriches the feed to the engine. Without it the engine would run lean for an instant
when rapidly opening the throttle causing bogging or stuttering. On the other hand if the squirt
of fuel lasts too long then the engine can bog due to input to the engine being too rich.

The accelerator pump is simple to understand.

It is basically a small reservoir of fuel with a diaphram. This diaphram is actuated by a spring
loaded rod. When the rod presses on the diaphram it displaces the fuel through to a jet in the
carb inlet.

The accelerator pump diagram shows a leak jet. The purpose of this is to adjust the amount of
fuel to the carb inlet by diverting fuel out of the circuit. The Kehin FCR39 on my 404 does not
have a leak jet.

I timed my squirt and found it lasted 2.7 seconds.

For optimum throttle response according to everything I have read the squirt should last 0.5 to
1 second. The carb on my bike is a first generation FCR39. This is apparent because the

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1 second. The carb on my bike is a first generation FCR39. This is apparent because the
accelerator pump actuator and linkage can be seen on the outside of the carb.

Later models and the MX model have the linkage under a cover. This mod applies only to my
carb model. (If yours is different I can advise you where to find details on how to mod your carb,
PM me).

This is what you need to do. Obtain a model wheel collar with a 2.5mm bore.

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Remove the seat, tank, etc. so you can clearly access the linkage, if need be remove the carb.
Once the linkage is accessed loosen the allen headed screw that runs through the carb (it has a
nut on the other end) don't remove it unless you want springs everywhere. Prise the plastic arm
backwards and unclip the actuator. Remove the actuator from its hole,

remove the boot and thread the collar onto the actuator. Replace the actuator and let it sit in
place without pressure. Tighten the collar to the actuator with the grub screw leaving a 0.6mm
gap between the collar and the brass actuator tube on the carb and connect everything back
together.

Test the squirt by rapidly opening the throttle and looking down the inlet (Not the outlet unless
you want petrol in your eye) you should see that the length of squirt has decreased, mine
reduced to 0.75 seconds.

Adjust the collar down for a shorter squirt or up for a longer one.

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Adjust the collar down for a shorter squirt or up for a longer one.

Put it back together and enjoy, it worked for me.

Notes.

The plastic arm has an adjuster screw on it. This is the Accelerator pump timing adjustment. My
timing was perfect, the squirt just misses the slide as it is opened. If your squirt hits the slide
you might want to adjust this very carefully to prevent this.

I removed the rubber boot from the rod. I ride in the dry and on road. If you ride in adverse
conditions you might want to use a thinner collar so the boot can be slid over it retaining
whatever weather protection it provided.

As an alternative to the collar you could use the innards of an electrical teminal block
connnector.

The collars are available from any good quality model shops. I used a 14g one and had to run a
2.5mm drill through it. They are also sold as 3/32" which fit.

There is another way of altering the length of squirt and that is by changing the diaphram.
These are available with different sized rivets on the bottom of them. A longer rivet reduces the
diaphram displacement and hence the duration of the squirt. Some carbs have leak jets. A
larger leak jet will reduce duration of the squirt. Doing either of the above is largely trial and
error.

This mod is referred to as the "Taffy Mod" and I take no credit for it, it is documented elsewhere
but a lot of the descriptions on line are poor.

Boyesen and other companies manufacture a "Quickshot device" ( a common mod). This is
effectively a larger accelerator pump reservoir. If your squirt is too long you are wasting your
money buying one. I have seen similar devices with adjustable leak jets which would work but
they are about £100. This mod costs less than 50p.

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