Tools: Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke 1997-2000

General Information
Tools and Techniques
Troubleshooting and Testing
Lubrlcatlon, Maintenance and Tune-up
Syncronlzation and Adjustment
Fuel System
Electrical and lgnitlon
Power Head
Gearcase
Manual Starter
Hydraulic Trfm and Midsection
Remote Control
Index
Wiring Diagrams
Page: I Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke - 1997-2000 http://www.ReadManuals.Com
Contents
QUICKREFEMNCEDATA ...............................................H
CHAMER ONE
GENEWLINFOMATION ................................................
...................................
1
Manual organization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Lubficants 8
Notes. cautions and warning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Gasket sealant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Torque specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 Galvanic corrosion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Engine operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Protection from galvanic corrosion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Propellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
CHAMER TWO
TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES ..............................................
Safety first . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21................................
Service hints
21
28
Basic hand tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Specialtips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Test equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Mechanic's techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
CHAMER THREE
TROUBLESHOOTING AND TESTING
Outboard engine identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
........................................33
Warning system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Troubleshooting test equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Fuses and wire harness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
Troubleshooting preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Wire harness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Starting difficulty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 8 Powerhead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Fuelsystem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Gearcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
C h ~ g k system
g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Trim system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Ignition system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Electronic he1 injection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Page: 2 Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke .1997-2000 http://www.ReadManuals.Com
CHAPTER FOUR
LUBRICATION. MAINTENANCE AND TUNEmUP .............................. 121
Before and after each use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Gearcase maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Routine power head maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Storage preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I41
Midsection maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Tune-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
CHAPTER FIVE
SYNCHRONIZATION AND ADJUSTMENT
Valve adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
...................................
........................
Idle speed adjustment
148
167
Throttle cable and linkage adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Choke solenoid and choke linkage . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169
Shift cable and linkage adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160 Dashpot adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
Carburetor synchronization Neutral-only start cable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
(DF25 and DF30 models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Trim position sender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171
Pilot screw adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Trimtab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
CHAPTER SIX
FUELSYSTEM ....................................................... 175
Fuel system semice precautions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .175 ............. Carburetor removal and installation 186
Low pressure fuel pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Carburetor overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I87
Silencercover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Fuel injection system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192
CHAPTER SEVEN
ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION ............................................
Starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 ............................
Warning system
200
220
Charging system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Battery maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Ignition system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214
CHAPTER EIGHT
POWERHEAD ......................................................
......................
Flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229
229
Cylinder block cleaning 266
Power head removal/instaIlatiodrepair . . . . . . . . . . 232 Cylinder block inspection and maintenance. . . . . . .268
Cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Cylinder block asssembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
Cylinder block component removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Break-in procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
Cylinder block disassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262
CHAPTER NINE
GEARCASE .........................................................
...................
289
Gearcase shim selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Gearcase shim adjustments 339
...................................................
Manual starter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
AND MIDSECT10 .....................................

Trim system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 Midsection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369
Quick Reference Data
ENGINE DATA
MODEL YEAR:
VIN NUMBER:
ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER:
CARBURETOR SERIAL NUMBER OR I.D. MARK:
Record the numbers here for reference.
STANDARD TIGHTENING TORQUE

Nem ft-lb. in.-lb.
Standard bolt or 4
Bolt size
5 mm 24
6 mm 4-7
8 mm 10-16
10 mm 22-35
7 or 3 slash marki
Bolt si
5 mm 3-6
6 mm 0-1 2
8 mm 18-26
10 mm 40-60
Stainless steel b
Bolt st
5 mm 24
6 mm 6-10
8 mm 35-20
10 trim 34-41 25-29
MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS AND INTERVALS

Before each use Check engine oil level and condition.
Check for fuel or oil leakage.
Check the engine mounting fasteners.
Check the propeller for damage.
After each use Flush the cooling system.

Check engine oil level and condition.
Check the tight engine mounting fasteners.
(continued)
MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS AND INTERVALS (continued)
Initial 20 hours or 1 month Inspect all hoses and clamps.
Change engine oil.
Replace oil filter.
Change gearcase lubricant.
Adjust idle speed.
Adjust carburetor pilot screw.*
Adjust valve clearance.
Tighten propeller nut.
Check for loose fasteners.
Every 50 hours or 3 months Inspect all hoses and clamps.

Inspect low pressure fuel filter.
Inspect fuel tank, hoses and fittings.
Check gearcase lubricant level and condition.
Lubricate the throttle and shift linkage.
Lubricate the swivel and tilt pins.
Inspect all anodes and ground wires.
Check the battery condition and fluid level.

Clean and inspect the spark plugs.
Change engine oil.

Inspect low pressure fuel fitter.
Replace the spark plugs.
Change engine oil.
Replace oil filter.
Inspect timing belt.*
Check ignition timing.
Adjust idle speed.
Inspect water pump components.
Replace water pump impeller.
Tighten the propeller nut.
Every two years Inspect all hoses and clamps.

Inspect all anodes and grounding wires.
Change engine oil.
(continued)
MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS AND INTERVALS (continued)
Every two years (continued) Replace oil filter.
Inspect timing belt:
Adjust idle speed.
Replace fuel and breather tube hoses.
Have fuel mixture analyzed.*
Additional maintenance required

every 400 hours or 2 years Replace low pressure fuel filter.*
Additional maintenancerequired
every 800 hours or 4 years Replace the timing belt.*
Additional maintenance required

every 1000 hours Replace high pressure fuel filter.*
* This maintenance item may not apply to all models
ENGINE OIL CAPACITY
-
Model
-
Liters US Quarts 1
DF9.9, DF15
Oil change only 1.1
Oil and filter change 1.1 1.2
DF25, DF30
Oil change only 3.0 3.2
DF40, DF50
DF60, DF70
GEARCASE LUBRICANT CAPACITY

Model mL US Oz.
DF9.9, DF15 170 5.7
DF25, DF30 230 7.8
DF40, DF50 610 20.6
DF60, DF70 560 18.9
SPARK PLUG SPECIFICATIONS

Model Recommended Plug Spark Plug Gap I
NGK DCPR6E 0.9-1.0 mm (0.035-0.039 in.)
NGK DCPR6E 0.8-0.9 mm (0.031-0.035 in.)
NGK BPR6ES 0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.031 in.)
Chapter
This detailed, comprehensive manual con- MANUAL ORGANIZATION

tains complete information on maintenance,
tune-up, repair and overhaul. Hundreds of pho- This chapter provides general information
tos and drawings guide you through every step- useful to marine owners and mechanics.
by-step procedure. Chapter Two discusses the tools and tech-
Troubleshooting, tune-up, maintenance and niques for preventive maintenance, trou-
repair are not difficult if you know what tools bleshooting and repair.
and equipment to use and what to do. Anyone Chapter Three describes typical equipment
not afraid to get their hands dirty, of average problems and provides logical troubleshooting
intelligence and with some mechanical ability, procedures.
can perform most of the procedures in this book. Following chapters describe specific systems,
See Chapter Two for more information on tools providing disassembly, repair, assembly and ad-
and techniques. justment procedures in simple step-by-step
A shop manual is a reference. You want to be form. Specifications concerning a specific sys-
able to find information fast. Clymer books are tem are included at the end of the appropriate
designed with you in mind. All chapters are chapter.
thumb tabbed and important items are indexed
at the end of the book. All procedures, tables,
NOTES, CAUTIONS
photos, etc., in this manual assume that the
AND WARNINGS
reader may be working on the machine or using
this manual for the first time. The terms NOTE, CAUTION and WARN-
Keep this book handy in your tool box. It will ING have specific meanings in this manual. A
help you to better understand how your machine NOTE provides additional information to make
runs, lower repair and maintenance costs and a step or procedure easier or clearer. Disregard-
generally increase your enjoyment of your ma- ing a NOTE could cause inconvenience, but
rine equipment. would not cause damage or personal injury.
Page: 9 Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke - 1997-2000 http://www.ReadManuals.Com
2 CHAPTER ONE
A CAUTION emphasizes areas where equip- 2-stroke Cycle

ment damage could result. Disregarding a CAU-
TION could cause permanent mechanical A 2-stroke engine requires only 1 crankshaft
damage; however, personal injury is unlikely. revolution (2 strokes of the piston) to complete
the Otto cycle. Figure 3 shows gasoline 2-stroke
A WARNING emphasizes areas where per- engine operation. Although diesel 2-strokes ex-
sonal injury or even death could result from ist, they are not con~monlyused in light marine
negligence. Mechanical damage may also occur. applications.
WARNINGS are to be taken seriously. In some
cases, serious injury or death has resulted from
disregarding similar warnings.
The material and design of the various fasten-
ers used on marine equipment are not arrived at
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS by chance or accident. Fastener design deter-
mines the type of tool required to work with the
Torque specifications throughout this manual fastener. Fastener material is carefully selected
are given in foot-pounds (ft.-lb.) and either New- to decrease the possibility of physical failure or
ton meters (N-m) or meter-kilograms (mkg). corrosion. See Gah~at~ic Corrosion in this chap-
Newton meters are being adopted in place of ter for more information on marine materials.
meter-kilograms in accordance with the Interna-
tional Modernized Metric System. Existing
torque wrenches calibrated in meter-kilograms Threads
can be used by performing a simple conversion:
Nuts, bolts and screws are manufactured in a
move the decimal point one place to the right.
wide range of thread patterns. To join a nut and
For example, 4.7 rnkg = 47 N.m. This conversion
bolt, the diameter of the bolt and the diameter of
is accurate enough for mechanics' use even
the hole in the nut must be the same. It is just as
though the exact mathematical conversion is 3.5
important that the threads on both be properly
mkg = 34.3 N-m.
matched.
The best way to determine if the threads on
two fasteners are matched is to turn the nut on
ENGINE OPERATION the bolt (or the bolt into the threaded hole in a
piece of equipment) with fingers only. Be sure
All marine engines, whether 2- or 4-stroke, both pieces are clean. If much force is required,
gasoline or diesel, operate on the Otto cycle of
u check the thread condition on each fastener. If
intake, con~pression,power and exhaust phases. the thread condition is good but the fasteners
jam. the threads are not compatible.
Four important specifications describe every
4-stroke Cycle thread:
a. Diameter.
A 4-stroke engine requires two crankshaft b. Threads per inch.
revolutions (4 strokes of the piston) to complete c. Thread pattern.
the Otto cycle. Figure 1 shows gasoline 4-stroke d. Thread direction.
engine operation. Figure 2 shows diesel 4-stroke Figure 4 shows the first two specifications.
engine operation. Thread pattern is more subtle. Italian and British
GENERAL INFORMATION 3
4 CHAPTER ONE
As the piston travels While the crankshaft

downward, it uncovers continues to rotate, the
the exhaust port (A) piston moves upward,
allowing the exhaust covering the transfer (9)
gases to leave the . and exhaust (A) ports.
cylinder. A fresh air-fuel The piston compresses
charge, which has been
a
the new air-fuel mixture
compressed slightly in the and creates a
crankcase, enters the low-pressure area in the a
cylinder through the crankcase at the same
transfer port (9). Since time. As the piston
this charge enters under continues to travel, it
pressure, it also helps to uncovers the intake port
push out the exhaust (C). A fresh air-fuel
gases. charge from the
carburetor (D) is drawn
into the crankcase
through the intake port.
2-STROKE OPERATING PRINCIPLES
As the piston almost

reaches the top of its
travel, the spark plug
fires, igniting the
compressed air-fuel
mixture. The piston
continues to top dead
As the oiston travels I
down, the exhaust gases
center (TDC) and is
leave the cylinder and the
pushed downward by the
expanding gases. complete cycle starts all
6 CHAPTER ONE
standards exist, but the most commonly used by are also designed to protrude above the metal
marine equipment manufacturers are American (round) or to be slightly recessed in the metal
standard and metric standard. The threads are cut (flat) (Figure 7).
differently as shown in Figure 5.
Most threads are cut so that the fastener must Bolts
be turned clockwise to tighten it. These are called
right-hand threads. Some fasteners have left- Commonly called bolts, the technical name
hand threads; they must be turned counterclock- for these fasteners is cap screw. They are nor-
wise to be tightened. Left-hand threads are used mally described by diameter, threads per inch
in locations where normal rotation of the equip- and length. For example, 1/4-20 x 1 indicates a
ment would tend to loosen a right-hand threaded bolt 114 in. in diameter with 20 threads per inch,
fastener. 1 in. long. The measurement across two flats on
the head of the bolt indicates the proper wrench
Machine Screws size to be used.
There are many different types of machine Nuts

screws. Figure 6 shows anumber of screw heads
requiring different types of turning tools (see Nuts are manufactured in a variety of types
Chapter Two for detailed information). Heads and sizes. Most are hexagonal (6-sided) and fit
OPENINGS FOR
TURNING TOOLS
Slotted Phillips Allen Internal Torx External Torx
on bolts, screws and studs with the same diame- Washers

ter and threads per inch.
There are two basic types of washers: flat
Figure 8 shows several types of nuts. The washers and lockwashers. Flat washers are sim-
common nut is usually used with a lockwasher. ple discs with a hole to fit a screw or bolt.
Self-locking nuts have a nylon insert that pre- Lockwashers are designed to prevent a fastener
vents the nut from loosening; no lockwasher is from working loose due to vibration, expansion
required. Wing nuts are designed for fast re- and contraction. Figure 9 shows several types of
moval by hand. Wing nuts are used for conven- lockwashers. Note that flat washers are often
ience in non-critical locations. used between a lockwasher and a fastener to
provide a smooth bearing surface. This allows
To indicate the size of a nut, manufacturers the fastener to be turned easily with a tool.
specify the diameter of the opening and the
threads per inch. This is similar to bolt specifi- Cotter Pins
cation, but without the length dimension. The
measurement across two flats on the nut indi- Cotter pins (Figure 10) are used to secure
cates the proper wrench size to be used. special kinds of fasteners. The threaded stud
8 CHAPTER ONE
must have a hole in it; the nut or nut lock piece ciety of Automotive Engineers (SAE) in several
has projections that the cotter pin fits between. categories. Oil containers display these ratings
This type of nut is called a "Castellated nut." on the top or label (Figure 11).
Cotter pins should not be reused after removal. API oil grade is indicated by letters, oils for
gasoline engines are identified by an "S7'and oils
Snap Rings for diesel engines are identified by a "C." Most
Snap rings can be of an internal or external modern gasoline engines require SF or SG
design. They are used to retain items on shafts graded oil. Automotive and marine diesel en-
(external type) or within tubes (internal type). gines use CC or CD graded oil.
Snap rings can be reused if they are not distorted Viscosity is an indication of the oil's thick-
during removal. In some applications, snap rings ness, or resistance to flow. The SAE uses num-
of varying thickness can be selected to control bers to indicate viscosity; thin oils have low
the end play of parts assemblies. numbers and thick oils have high numbers. A
"W7'after the number indicates that the viscosity
testing was done at low temperature to simulate
LUBRICANTS
cold weather operation. Engine oils fall into the
Periodic lubrication ensures long service life 5W-20W and 20-50 range.
for any type of equipment. It is especially impor- Multi-grade oils (for example, 10W-40) are
tant to marine equipment because it is exposed less viscous (thinner) at low temperatures and
to salt or brackish water and other harsh environ- more viscous (thicker) at high temperatures. This
ments. The type of lubricant used is just as im- allows the oil to perform efficiently across a wide
portant as the lubrication service itself; although, range of engine operating temperatures.
in an emergency, the wrong type of lubricant is
better than none at all. The following paragraphs
describe the types of lubricants most often used
on marine equipment. Be sure to follow the
equipment manufacturer's recommendations for
lubricant types.
Generally, all liquid lubricants are called "oil."
They may be mineral-based (including petro-
leum bases), natural-based (vegetable and ani-
mal bases), synthetic-based or emulsions
(mixtures). "Grease" is an oil which is thickened
with a metallic "soap." The resulting material is
then usually enhanced with anticorrosion, anti-
oxidant and extreme pressure (EP) additives.
Grease is often classified by the type of thickener
added; lithium and calcium soap are commonly
used.
4-stroke Engine Oil

Oil for 4-stroke engines is graded by the
American Petroleum Institute (API) and the So-
2-stroke Engine Oil
Lubrication for a 2-stroke engine is provided

by oil mixed with the incoming fuel-air mixture.
Some of the oil mist settles out in the crankcase,
lubricating the crankshaft and lower end of the
connecting rods. The rest of the oil enters the
combustion chamber to lubricate the piston,
rings and cylinder wall. This oil is then burned
along with the fuel-air mixture during the com-
bustion process.
Engine oil must have several special qualities
to work well in a 2-stroke engine. It must mix
easily and stay in suspension in gasoline. When
burned, it can't leave behind excessive deposits.
It must also be able to withstand the high tem-
peratures associated with 2-stroke engines.
The National Marine Manufacturer's Associa-
tion (NMMA) has set standards for oil used in
2-stroke, water-cooled engines. This is the
NMMA TC-W (two-cycle, water-cooled) grade
(Figure 12). The oil's performance in the follow-
ing areas is evaluated:
a. Lubrication (prevention of wear and scuff-
ing).
b. Spark plug fouling.
c. Preignition.
d. Piston ring sticking.
e. Piston varnish.
f. General engine condition (including depos-
its).
g. Exhaust port blockage.
h. Rust prevention.
i. Mixing ability with gasoline.
In addition to oil grade, manufacturers specify
the ratio of gasoline to oil required during break-
in and normal engine operation.
Gear Oil
Gear lubricants are assigned SAE viscosity

numbers under the same system as 4-stroke en-
gine oil. Gear lubricant falls into the SAE 72-250
10 CHAPTER ONE
range (Figure 3). Some gear lubricants are

multi-grade; for example, SAE 85W-90.
Three types of marine gear lubricant are gen-
erally available: SAE 90 hypoid gear lubricant is
designed for older manual-shift units; Type C
gear lubricant contains additives designed for
electric shift mechanisms; High viscosity gear
lubricant is a heavier oil designed to withstand
the shock loading of high-performance engines
or units subjected to severe duty use. Always use
a gear lubricant of the type specified by the unit's
manufacturer.
Grease
Greases are graded by the National Lubricat-

ing Grease Institute (NLGI). Greases are graded
by number according to the consistency of the
grease; these ratings range from No. 000 to No.
6, with No. 6 being the most solid. A typical
multipurpose grease is NLGI No. 2 (Figure 14).
For specific applications, equipment manufac-
turers may require grease with an additive such
as molybdenum disulfide (MOS).
Gasket sealant is used instead of pre-formed

gaskets on some applications, or as a gasket
dressing on others. Two types of gasket sealant
are commonly used: room temperature vulcan-
izing (RTV) and anaerobic. Because these two
materials have different sealing properties, they
cannot be used interchangeably.
RTV Sealant
This is a silicone gel supplied in tubes (Figure

15). Moisture in the air causes RTV to cure.
Always place the cap on the tube as soon as
possible when using RTV. RTV has a shelf life
of one year and will not cure properly when the
shelf life has expired. Check the expiration date
on RTV tubes before using and keep partially Anaerobic Sealant

used tubes tightly sealed. RTV sealant can gen-
This is a gel supplied in tubes (Figure 16).
erally fill gaps up to 114 in. (6.3 mm) and works
It cures only in the absence of air, as when
well on slightly flexible surfaces.
squeezed tightly between two machined mat-
Applying RTV Sealant ing surfaces. For this reason, it will not spoil
if the cap is left off the tube. It should not be
Clean all gasket residue from mating surfaces. used if one mating surface is flexible. Anaero-
Surfaces should be clean and free of oil and dirt. bic sealant is able to fill gaps up to 0.030 in.
Remove all RTV gasket material from blind (0.8 mm) and generally works best on rigid,
attaching holes because it can create a "hydrau- machined flanges or surfaces.
lic" effect and affect bolt torque.
Apply RTV sealant in a continuous bead 2-3
mrn (0.08-0.12 in.) thick. Circle all mounting Applying Anaerobic Sealant
holes unless otherwise specified. Torque mating Clean all gasket residue from mating sur-
parts within 10 minutes after application.
faces. Surfaces must be clean and free of oil
and dirt. Remove all gasket material from
blind attaching holes, as it can cause a "hy-
draulic" effect and affect bolt torque.
Apply anaerobic sealant in a 1 mm or less
(0.04 in.) bead to one sealing surface. Circle
all mounting holes. Torque mating parts
within 15 minutes after application.
GALVANIC CORROSION
A chemical reaction occurs whenever two

different types of metal are joined by an elec-
trical conductor and immersed in an electro-
lyte. Electrons transfer from one metal to the
other through the electrolyte and return
through the conductor.
The hardware on a boat is made of many
different types of metal. The boat hull acts as
a conductor between the metals. Even if the
hull is wooden or fiberglass, the slightest film
of water (electrolyte) within the hull provides
conductivity. This combination creates a good
environment for electron flow (Figure 17).
Unfortunately, this electron flow results in gal-
vanic corrosion of the metal involved, causing
one of the metals to be corroded or eaten away
12 CHAPTER ONE
by the process. The amount of electron flow becomes more severe as the difference in electri-
(and, therefore, the amount of corrosion) de- cal potential between the two metals increases.
pends on several factors:
In some cases, galvanic corrosion can occur
a. The types of metal involved. within a single piece of metal. Common brass is
b. The efficiency of the conductor. a mixture of zinc and copper, and, when im-
c. The strength of the electrolyte. mersed in an electrolyte, the zinc portion of the
mixture will corrode away as reaction occurs
Metals between the zinc and the copper particles.
The chemical composition of the metals used

in marine equipment has a significant effect on
the amount and speed of galvanic corrosion. Conductors
Certain metals are more resistant to corrosion
than others. These electrically negative metals The hull of the boat often acts as the conductor
are commonly called "noble;" they act as the between different types of metal. Marine equip-
cathode in any reaction. Metals that are more ment, such as an outboard motor or stem drive
subject to corrosion are electrically positive; unit, can also act as the conductor. Large masses
they act as the anode in a reaction. The more of metal, firmly connected together, are more
noble metals include titanium, 18-8 stainless efficient conductors than water. Rubber mount-
steel and nickel. Less noble metals include zinc, ings and vinyl-based paint can act as insulators
aluminum and magnesium. Galvanic corrosion between pieces of metal.
+ Conductor
II
- Conductor
Electrolyte material. If the fastener were to corrode instead

of the equipment, major problems could arise.
The water in which a boat operates acts as the Keep all painted surfaces in good condition.
electrolyte for the galvanic corrosion process. If paint is scraped off and bare metal exposed,
The better a conductor the electrolyte is, the corrosion will rapidly increase. Use a vinyl- or
more severe and rapid the corrosion. plastic-based paint, which acts as an electrical
Cold, clean freshwater is the poorest electro- insulator.
lyte. As water temperature increases, its conduc-
Be careful when using metal-based antifoul-
tivity increases. Pollutants will increase
ing paints. These should not be applied to metal
conductivity; brackish or saltwater is also an
parts of the boat, outboard motor or stem drive
efficient electrolyte. This is one of the reasons
unit or they will actually react with the equip-
that most manufacturers recommend a fresh-
ment, causing corrosion between the equipment
water flush for marine equipment after operation
and the layer of paint. Organic-based paints are
in saltwater, polluted or brackish water.
available for use on metal surfaces.
Where a corrosion protection device is used.
PROTECTION FROM remember that it must be immersed in the elec-
GALVANIC CORROSION trolyte along with the rest of the boat to have any
effect. If you raise the power unit out of the water
Because of the environment in which marine when the boat is docked, any anodes on the
equipment must operate, it is practically impos- power unit will be removed from the corrosion
sible to totally prevent galvanic corrosion. There cycle and will not protect the rest of the equip-
are several ways by which the process can be ment that is still immersed. Also, such corrosion
slowed. After taking these precautions, the next protection devices must not be painted because
step is to "fool" the process into occurring only this would insulate them from the corrosion
where you want it to occur. This is the role of process.
sacrificial anodes and impressed current sys-
tems. Any change in the boat's equipment, such as
the installation of a new stainless steel propeller,
will change the electrical potential and could
Slowing Corrosion cause increased corrosion. Keep in mind that
when you add new equipment or change materi-
Some simple precautions can help reduce the als, you should review your corrosion protection
amount of corrosion taking place outside the system to be sure it is up to the job.
hull. These are not a substitute for the corrosion
protection methods discussed under Sacrificial
Anodes and Impressed Current Systems in this Sacrificial Anodes
chapter, but they can help these protection meth-
ods do their job. Anodes are usually made of zinc, a far from
Use fasteners of a metal more noble than the noble metal. Sacrificial anodes are specially de-
part they are fastening. If corrosion occurs. the signed to do nothing but corrode. Properly fas-
larger equipment will suffer but the fastener will tening such pieces to the boat will cause them to
be protected. Because fasteners are usually very act as the anode in any galvanic reaction that
small in comparison to the equipment being occurs; any other metal present will act as the
fastened, the equipment can survive the loss of cathode and will not be damaged.
14 CHAPTER ONE
Anodes must be used properly to be effective. corrosion could be occurring, it transmits this
Simply fastening pieces of zinc to your boat in information to the control box.
random locations won't do the job. The control box connects the boat's battery to
You must determine how much anode surface the anode. When the sensor signals the need, the
area is required to adequately protect the equip- control box applies positive battery voltage to
ment's surface area. A good starting point is the anode. Current from the battery flows from
provided by Military Specification MIL-A- the anode to all other metal parts of the boat, no
8 18001, which states that one square inch of new matter how noble or non-noble these parts may
anode will protect either: be. This battery current takes the place of any
a. 800 square inches of freshly painted steel. galvanic current flow.
b. 250 square inches of bare steel or bare Only a very small amount of battery current is
aluminum alloy. needed to counteract galvanic corrosion. Manu-
c. 100 square inches of copper or copper alloy. facturers estimate that it would take two or three
months of constant use to drain a typical marine
This rule is for a boat at rest. When underway,
battery, assuming the battery is never recharged.
more anode area is required to protect the same
An impressed current system is more expen-
equipment surface area.
sive to install than simple anodes but, consider-
The anode must be fastened so that it has good ing its low maintenance requirements and the
electrical contact with the metal to be protected. excellent protection it provides, the long-term
If possible. the anode can be attached directly to cost may actually be lower.
the other metal. If that is not possible, the entire
network of metal parts in the boat should be PROPELLERS
electrically bonded together so that all pieces are
protected. The propeller is the final link between the
Good quality anodes have inserts of some boat's drive system and the water. A perfectly
other metal around the fastener holes. Otherwise,
the anode could erode away around the fastener.
The anode can then become loose or even Fall
off, removing all protection.
Another Military Specification (MIL-A-
18001) defines the type of alloy preferred that
will corrode at a uniform rate without forming a
crust that could reduce its efficiency after a time.
Impressed Current Systems
An impressed current system can be installed

on any boat that has a battery. The system con-
sists of an anode, a control box and a sensor. The
anode in this system is coated with a very noble
metal, such as platinum, so that it is almost
corrosion-free and will last indefinitely. The sen-
sor, under the boat's waterline, monitors the po-
tential for corrosion. When it senses that
maintained engine and hull are useless if the tip separates the leading edge from the trailing
propeller is the wrong type or has been allowed edge.
to deteriorate. Although propeller selection for a The leading edge is the edge of the blade
specific situation is beyond the scope of this nearest to the boat. During normal rotation, this
book, the following information on propeller is the area of the blade that first cuts through the
construction and design will allow you to discuss water.
the subject intelligently with your marine dealer. The trailing edge is the edge of the blade
farthest from the boat.
How a Propeller Works The blade face is the surface of the blade that
faces away from the boat. During normal rota-
As the curved blades of a propeller rotate tion, high pressure exists on this side of the blade.
through the water, a high-pressure area is created The blade back is the surface of the blade that
on one side of the blade and a low-pressure area faces toward the boat. During normal rotation,
exists on the other side of the blade (Figure 18). low pressure exists on this side of the blade.
The propeller moves toward the low-pressure The cup is a small curve or lip on the trailing
area, carrying the boat with it. edge of the blade.
The hub is the central portion of the propeller.
Propeller Parts It connects the blades to the propeller shaft (part
of the boat's drive system). On some drive sys-
Although a propeller may be a one-piece unit, tems, engine exhaust is routed through the hub;
it is made up of several different parts (Figure in this case, the hub is made up of an outer and
19). Variations in the design of these parts make an inner portion, connected by ribs.
different propellers suitable for different jobs.
The diffuser ring is used on through-hub ex-
The blade tip is the point on the blade farthest haust models to prevent exhaust gases from en-
from the center of the propeller hub. The blade tering the blade area.
O 19 Direction of
rotation
16 CHAPTER ONE
Propeller Design 2. That is, it is the diameter of the circle formed

by the blade tips during propeller rotation (Fig-
Changes in length, angle, thickness and mate- ure 20).
rial of propeller parts make different propellers
suitable for different situations. Pitch and rake
Diameter
Propeller pitch and rake describe the place-
Propeller diameter is the distance from the ment of the blade in relation to the hub (Figure
center of the hub to the blade tip, multiplied by 21).
Rake line
Page: 24
in. 20 in.
-
Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke - 1997-2000 http://www.ReadManuals.Com
Pitch is expressed by the theoretical distance ure 24). Progressive pitch starts low at the lead-
that the propeller would travel in one revolution. ing edge and increases toward to trailing edge.
In A, Figure 22, the propeller would travel 10 The propeller pitch specification is the average
inches in one revolution. I11 B, Figure 22, the of the pitch across the entire blade.
propeller would travel 20 inches in one revolu-
Blade rake is specified in degrees and is meas-
tion. This distance is only theoretical; during
ured along a line from the center of the hub to
actual operation, the propeller achieves about
the blade tip. A blade that is perpendicular to the
80% of its rated travel.
hub (A, Figure 25) has 0' of rake. A blade that
Propeller blades can be constructed with con- is angled from perpendicular (B, Figure 25) has
stant pitch (Figure 23) or progressive pitch (Fig- a rake expressed by its difference from perpen-
0" rake
^ 1 5 O rake
18 CHAPTER ONE
dicular. Most propellers have rakes ranging from

0-20Â°
Blade thickness
Blade thickness is not uniform at all points
along the blade. For efficiency. blades should be
as thin as possible at all points while retaining
enough strength to move the boat. Blades tend to
be thicker where they meet the hub and thinner
at the blade tip (Figure 26). This is to support
the heavier loads at the hub section of the blade.
This thickness is dependent on the strength of the
material used.
When cut along a line from the leading edge
to the trailing edge in the central portion of the
blade (Figure 27), the propeller blade resembles
an airplane wing. The blade face, where high
pressure exists during normal rotation, is almost
flat. The blade back, where low pressure exists
during normal rotation, is curved, with the thin-
nest portions at the edges and the thickest portion
at the center.
Propellers that run only partially submerged.
as in racing applications, may have a wedge-
shaped cross-section (Figure 28). The leading
edge is very thin; the blade thickness increases
toward the trailing edge, where it is the thickest.
If a propeller such as this is run totally sub-
merged, it is very inefficient.
Number of blades
The number of blades used on a propeller is a
compromise between efficiency and vibration. A
one-blade propeller would be the most efficient,
but it would also create high levels of vibration.
As blades are added, efficiency decreases, but so
do vibration levels. Most propellers have three
blades, representing the most practical trade-off
between efficiency and vibration.
Material
Propeller materials are chosen for strength,
corrosion resistance and economy. Stainless
steel, aluminum and bronze are the most com-
monly used materials. Bronze is quite strong but
GENERAL INFORMATION
rather expensive. Stainless steel is more common Cavitation and Ventilation

than bronze because of its combination of
strength and lower cost. Aluminum alloys are the Cavitation and ventilation are not inter-
least expensive but usually lack the strength of changeable terms; they refer to two distinct prob-
steel. Plastic propellers may be used in some low lems encountered during propeller operation.
horsepower applications. To understand cavitation, you must first un-
derstand the relationship between pressure and
the boiling point of water. At sea level, water will
Direction of rotation boil at 212' F. As pressure increases, such as
within an engine's closed cooling system, the
Propellers are made for both right-hand and boiling point of water increases-it will boil at
left-hand rotation although right-hand is the some temperature higher than 2 12' F. The oppo-
most commonly used. When seen from behind site is also true. As pressure decreases, water will
the boat in forward motion, a right-hand propel- boil at a temperature lower than 2 12' F. If pres-
ler turns clockwise and a left-hand propeller sure drops low enough, water will boil at typical
turns counterclockwise. Off the boat, you can tell ambient temperatures of 50-60' F.
the difference by observing the angle of the We have said that, during normal propeller
blades (Figure 29). A right-hand propeller's operation, low-pressure exists on the blade back.
blades slant from the upper left to the lower right; Normally, the pressure does not drop low enough
a left-hand propeller's blades are the opposite. o r boiling to occur. However, poor blade design
20 CHAPTER ONE
or selection, or blade damage can cause an un- air from entering the blade area (Figure 31). This
usual pressure drop on a small area of the blade plate is correctly called an "antiventilation
(Figure 30). Boiling can occur in this small area. plate," although you will often see it called an
As the water boils, air bubbles form. As the "anticavitation plate." Through hub exhaust sys-
boiling water passes to a higher pressure area of tems also have specially designed hubs to keep
the blade, the boiling stops and the bubbles col- exhaust gases from entering the blade area.
lapse. The collapsing bubbles release enough
energy to erode the surface of the blade.
This entire process of pressure drop, boiling and
bubble collapse is called "cavitation." The damage
caused by the collapsing bubbles is called a "cavi-
tation bum." It is important to remember that cavi-
tation is caused by a decrease in pressure, not an
increase in temperature.
Ventilation is not as con~plexa process as cavi-
tation. Ventilation refers to air entering the blade
area, either from above the surface of the water or
from a through-hub exhaust system. As the blades
meet the air, the propeller momentarily over-revs,
losing most of its thrust. An added complication is
that as the propeller over-revs, pressure on the blade
back decreases and massive cavitation can occur.
Most pieces of marine equipment have a plate
above the propeller area designed to keep surface
Tools an
This chapter describes the common tools re- 4. Use the proper size wrenches to avoid damage
quired for marine equipment repairs and trou- to fasteners and injury to yourself.
bleshooting. Techniques that will make your 5. When loosening a tight or stuck fastener, think
work easier and more effective are also de- of what would happen if the wrench should slip.
scribed. Some of the procedures in this book Protect yourself accordingly.
require special skills or expertise; in some cases, 6. Keep your work area clean, uncluttered and
you are better off entrusting the job to a dealer well lighted.
or qualified specialist. 7. Wear safety goggles during all operations
involving drilling, grinding or the use of a cold
chisel.
SAFETY FIRST 8. Never use worn tools.
Professional mechanics can work for years 9. Keep a Coast Guard approved fire extin-
and never suffer a serious injury. If you follow a guisher handy. Be sure it is rated for gasoline
few rules of common sense and safety, you too (Class B) and electrical (Class C) fires.
can enjoy many safe hours servicing your marine
equipment. If you ignore these rules, you can BASIC HAND TOOLS
hurt yourself or damage the equipment.
1. Never use gasoline as a cleaning solvent. A number of tools are required to maintain
2. Never smoke or use a torch near flammable marine equipment. You may already have some
liquids, such as cleaning solvent. If you are of these tools for home or car repairs. There are
working in your home garage, remember that also tools made especially for marine equipment
your home gas appliances have pilot lights. repairs; these you will have to purchase. In any
3. Never smoke or use a torch in an area where case, a wide variety of quality tools will make
batteries are being charged. Highly explosive repairs easier and more effective.
hydrogen gas is formed during the charging Keep your tools clean and in a tool box. Keep
process. them organized with the sockets and related
22 CHAPTER TWO
drives together, the open end and box wrenches Pliers

together, etc. After using a tool, wipe off dirt and
grease with a clean cloth and place the tool in its Pliers come in a wide range of types and sizes.
correct place. Pliers are useful for cutting, bending and crimp-
The following tools are required to perform ing. They should never be used to cut hardened
virtually any repair job. Each tool is described objects or to turn bolts or nuts. Figure 4 shows
and the recommended size given for starting a several types of pliers.
tool collection. Additional tools and some dupli-
cations may be added as you become more fa- Each type of pliers has a specialized function.
miliar with the equipment. You may need all General purpose pliers are used mainly for hold-
standard U.S. size tools, all metric size tools or ing things and for bending. Locking pliers are
a mixture of both. used as pliers or to hold objects very tightly, like
a vise. Needlenose pliers are used to hold or bend
small objects. Adjustable or slip-joint pliers can
Screwdrivers
The screwdriver is a very basic tool, but if

used improperly, it will do more damage than
good. The slot on a screw has a definite dimen-
sion and shape. A screwdriver must be selected
to conform with that shape. Use a small screw-
driver for small screws and a large one for large
screws or the screw head will be damaged.
Two types of screwdriver are commonly re-
quired: a common (flat-blade) screwdriver (Fig-
ure 1) and Phillips screwdrivers (Figure 2).
Screwdrivers are available in sets, which often
include an assortment of common and Phillips
blades. If you buy them individually, buy at least
the following:
a. Common screwdriver-5/16 x 6 in. blade.
b. Common screwdriver-318 x 12 in. blade
c. Phillips screwdriver-size 2 tip, 6 in. blade.
Use screwdrivers only for driving screws.
Never use a screwdriver for prying or chiseling.
Do not try to remove a Phillips or Allen head
screw with a common screwdriver; you can dam-
age the head so that the proper tool will be unable
to remove it.
Keep screwdrivers in the proper condition and
they will last longer and perform better. Always
keep the tip of a common screwdriver in good
condition. Figure 3 shows how to grind the tip
to the proper shape if it becomes damaged. Note
the parallel sides of the tip.
TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES 23
be adjusted to hold various sizes of objects; the

jaws remain parallel to grip around objects such
as pipe or tubing. There are many more types of
pliers. The ones described here are the most
commonly used.
Box and Open-end Wrenches
Box and open-end wrenches are available in

sets or separately in a variety of sizes. See Figure
5 and Figure 6. The number stamped near the
end refers to the distance between two parallel
flats on the hex head bolt or nut.
Box wrenches are usually superior to open-

end wrenches. An open-end wrench grips the nut
on only two flats. Unless it fits well, it may slip
and round off the points on the nut. The box
wrench grips all 6 flats. Both 6-point and 12-
point openings on box wrenches are available.
The 6-point gives superior holding power; the
12-point allows a shorter swing.
TOO
CORRECT WAY TO GRIND BLADE
24 CHAPTER TWO
Combination wrenches, which are open on

one side and boxed on the other, are also avail-
able. Both ends are the same size.
Adjustable Wrenches
An adjustable wrench can be adjusted to fit

nearly any nut or bolt head. See Figure 7. How-
ever, it can loosen and slip, causing damage to
the nut and maybe to your knuckles. Use an
adjustable wrench only when other wrenches are
not available.
Adjustable wrenches come in sizes ranging
from 4-18 in. overall. A 6 or 8 in. wrench is
recommended as an all-purpose wrench.
Socket Wrenches
This type is undoubtedly the fastest, safest and

most convenient to use. See Figure 8. Sockets,
which attach to a suitable handle, are available
with 6-point or 12-point openings and use 114,
318 and 314 inch drives. The drive size indicates
the size of the square hole that mates with the

ratchet or flex handle.
Torque Wrench
A torque wrench (Figure 9) is used with a

socket to measure how tight a nut or bolt is
installed. They come in a wide price range and
with either 318 or 112 in. square drive. The drive
size indicates the size of the square drive that
mates with the socket. Purchase one that meas-
ures up to 150 ft.-lb. (203 N.m).
Impact Driver
This tool (Figure 10) makes removal of tight

fasteners easy and eliminates damage to bolts
and screw slots. Impact drivers and interchange-
able bits are available at most large hardware and
auto parts stores.
Circlip Pliers
Circlip pliers (sometimes referred to as snap-

ring pliers) are necessary to remove circlips. See
Figure 11. Circlip pliers usually come with sev-
eral different size tips; many designs can be
switched from internal type to external type.
Hammers
The correct hammer is necessary for repairs.

Use only a hammer with a face (or head) of
rubber or plastic or the soft-faced type that is
filled with buckshot (Figure 12). These are
sometimes necessary in engine tear-downs.
Never use a metal-faced hammer as severe dam-
age will result in most cases. You can always
produce the same amount of force with a soft-
faced hammer.
26 CHAPTER TWO
Feeler Gauge
This tool has either flat or wire measuring

gauges (Figure 13). Wire gauges are used to
measure spark plug gap; flat gauges are used for
all other measurements. A non-magnetic (brass)
gauge may be specified when working around
magnetized parts.
Other Special Tools
Some procedures require special tools; these

are identified in the appropriate chapter. Unless
otherwise specified, the part number used in this
book to identify a special tool is the marine
equipment manufacturer's part number.
Special tools can usually be purchased
through your marine equipment dealer. Some
can be made locally by a machinist, often at a
much lower price. You may find certain special
tools at tool rental dealers. Don't use makeshift
tools if you can't locate the correct special tool;
you will probably cause more damage than good.
TEST EQUIPMENT
Multimeter
This instrument (Figure 14) is invaluable for

electrical system troubleshooting and service. It
combines a voltmeter, an ohmmeter and an am-
meter into one unit, so it is often called a VOM.
Two types of multimeter are available, analog
and digital. Analog meters have a moving needle
with marked bands indicating the volt, ohm and
amperage scales. The digital meter (DVOM) is
ideally suited for troubleshooting because it is
easy to read, more accurate than analog, contains
internal overload protection, is auto-ranging
(analog meters must be recalibrated each time
the scale is changed) and has automatic polarity
compensation.
Strobe Timing Light
This instrument is necessary for dynamic tun-

ing (setting ignition timing while the engine is
running). By flashing a light at the precise instant
the spark plug fires, the position of the timing
mark can be seen. The flashing light makes a
moving mark appear to stand still opposite a
stationary mark.
Suitable lights range from inexpensive neon
bulb types to powerful xenon strobe lights. See
Figure 15. A light with an inductive pickup is
best because it eliminates any possible damage
to ignition wiring.
Tachometer/Dwell Meter
A portable tachometer is necessary for tuning.
See Figure 16. Ignition timing and carburetor
adjustments must be performed at the specified
idle speed. The best instrument for this purpose
is one with a low range of 0- 1000 or 0-2000 rpm
and a high range of 0-6000 rpm. Extended range
(0-6000 or 0-8000 rpm) instruments lack accu-
racy at lower speeds. The instrument should be
capable of detecting changes of 25 rpm on the
low range.
A dwell meter is often combined with a ta-
chometer. Dwell meters are used with breaker
point ignition systems to measure the amount of
time the points remain closed during engine
operation.
Compression Gauge
This tool (Figure 17) measures the amount of
pressure present in the engine's combustion
chamber during the compression stroke. This
indicates general engine condition. Compression
readings can be interpreted along with vacuum
gauge readings to pinpoint specific engine me-
chanical problems.
The easiest type to use has screw-in adapters
that fit into the spark plug holes. Press-in rubber-
tipped types are also available.
28 CHAPTER TWO
Vacuum Gauge
The vacuum gauge (Figure 18) measures the

intake manifold vacuum created by the engine's
intake stroke. Manifold and valve problems (on
4-stroke engines) can be identified by interpret-
ing the readings. When combined with compres-
sion gauge readings, other engine problems can
be diagnosed.
Some vacuum gauges can also be used as fuel
pressure gauges to trace fuel system problems.
Hydrometer
Battery electrolyte specific gravity is meas-

ured with a hydrometer (Figure 19).The specific
gravity of the electrolyte indicates the battery's
state of charge. The best type has automatic
temperature compensation; otherwise, you must
calculate the compensation yourself.
Precision Measuring Tools
Various tools are needed to make precision

measurements. A dial indicator (Figure 20), for
example, is used to determine run-out of rotating
parts and end play of parts assemblies. A dial
indicator can also be used to precisely measure
piston position in relation to top dead center;
some engines require this measurement for igni-
tion timing adjustment.
Vernier calipers (Figure 21) and micrometers
(Figure 22) are other precision measuring tools
used to determine the size of parts (such as piston
diameter).
Precision measuring equipment must be
stored, handled and used carefully or it will not
remain accurate.
SERVICE HINTS
Most of the service procedures covered in this
manual are straightforward and can be per-
formed by anyone reasonably handy with tools.
It is suggested, however, that you consider your equipment required, it would be better to have a
own skills and toolbox carefully before attempt- qualified repair shop make the measurements for
ing any operation involving major disassembly you.
of the engine or gearcase.
Preparation for Disassembly
Some operations, for example, require the use
of a press. It would be wiser to have these per- Repairs go much faster and easier if the equip-
formed by a shop equipped for such work, rather ment is clean before you begin work. There are
than trying to do the job yourself with makeshift special cleaners, such as Gunk or Bel-Ray De-
equipment. Other procedures require precise greaser, for washing the engine and related parts.
measurements. Unless you have the skills and Just spray or brush on the cleaning solution, let
it stand, then rinse away with a garden hose.
Clean all oily or greasy parts with cleaning sol-
vent as you remove them.
WARNING
Never use gasoline as a cleaning agent.
It presents an extieme fire hazard. Be
sure to work in a well-ventilated areu
when iisini; cleaning .soh*ent. Keep a
Coast Guard approved fire extingui.v/~e/.,
rated for gasoline fires, handy in any
case.
Much of the labor charged for repairs made by

dealers is for the removal and disassembly of
other parts to reach the defective unit. It is fre-
quently possible to perform the preliminary op-
erations yourself and then take the defective unit
in to the dealer for repair.
If you decide to tackle the job yourself, read
the entire section in this manual that pertains to
it. making sure you have identified the proper
one. Study the illustrations and text until you
have a good idea of what is involved in complet-
ing the job satisfactorily. If special tools or re-
placement parts are required, make
arrangements to get them before you start. It is
frustrating and time-consuming to get partly into
a job and then be unable to complete it.
Disassembly Precautions
During disassembly of parts, keep a few gen-

eral precautions in mind. Force is rarely needed
to get things apart. If parts are a light fit, such as
a bearing in a case, there is usually a tool de- Whenever a rotating part butts against a sta-
signed to separate them. Never use a screwdriver tionary part, look for a shim or washer. Use new
to pry apart parts with machined surfaces (such gaskets if there is any doubt about the condition
as cylinder heads and crankcases). You will mar of the old ones. Unless otherwise specified, a thin
the surfaces and end up with leaks. coat of oil on gaskets may help them seal effec-
Make diagrams (or take an instant picture) tively.
wherever similar-appearing parts are found. For Heavy grease can be used to hold small parts
example, head and crankcase bolts are often not in place if they tend to fall out during assembly.
the same length. You may think you can remem- However, keep grease and oil away from electri-
ber where everything came from, but mistakes cal components.
are costly. There is also the possibility you may High spots may be sanded off a piston with
be sidetracked and not return to work for days or sandpaper, but fine emery cloth and oil will do a
even weeks. In the interval, carefully laid out much more professional job.
parts may have been disturbed. Carbon can be removed from the cylinder
Cover all openings after removing parts to head, the piston crown and the exhaust port with
keep small parts, dirt or other contamination a dull screwdriver. Do not scratch either surface.
from entering. Wipe off the surface with a clean cloth when
Tag all similar internal parts for location and finished.
direction. All internal components should be re- The carburetor is best cleaned by disassem-
installed in the same location and direction from bling it and soaking the parts in a commercial
which removed. Record the number and thick- carburetor cleaner. Never soak gaskets and rub-
ness of any shims as they are removed. Small ber parts in these cleaners. Never use wire to
parts, such as bolts, can be identified by placing clean out jets and air passages; they are easily
them in plastic sandwich bags. Seal and label damaged. Use compressed air to blow out the
them with masking tape. carburetor after the float has been removed.
Wiring should be tagged with masking tape Take your time and do the job right. Do not
and marked as each wire is removed. Again, do forget that the break-in procedure on a newly
not rely on memory alone. rebuilt engine is the same as that of a new one.
Protect finished surfaces from physical dam- Use the break-in oil recommendations and fol-
age or corrosion. Keep gasoline off painted sur- low other instructions given in your owner's
faces. manual.
Assembly Precautions SPECIAL TIPS

No parts, except those assembled with a press Because of the extreme demands placed on
fit, require unusual force during assembly. If a marine equipment, several points should be kept
part is hard to remove or install, find out why in mind when performing service and repair. The
before proceeding. following items are general suggestions that may
When assembling two parts, start all fasteners, improve the overall life of the machine and help
then tighten evenly in an alternating or crossing avoid costly failures.
pattern if no specific tightening sequence is 1. Unless otherwise specified, use a locking
given. compound, such as Loctite Threadlocker, on all
When assembling parts, be sure all shims and bolts and nuts, even if they are secured with
washers are installed exactly as they came out. lockwashers. Be sure to use the specif-ed grade
of thread locking compound. A screw or bolt lost designated. Many gaskets are designed to swell
from an engine cover or bearing retainer could when they come in contact with oil. Gasket
easily cause serious and expensive damage be- sealer will prevent the gaskets from swelling as
fore its loss is noticed. intended and can result in oil leaks. Authorized
When applying thread locking compound. use replacement gaskets are cut from material of the
a small amount. If too much is used, it can work precise thickness needed. Installation of a too
its way down the threads and stick parts together thick or too thin gasket in a critical area could
that were not meant to be stuck together. cause equipment damage.
Keep a tube of thread locking compound in
your tool box: when used properly, it is cheap
insurance. IC'S TECHNIQUES
2. Use a hammer-driven impact tool to remove
and install screws and bolts. These tools help emoving Frozen Fasteners
prevent the rounding off of bolt heads and screw
slots and ensure a tight installation.
3. When straightening the fold-over type lock- When a fastener rusts and cannot be removed,
washer, use a wide-blade chisel, such as an old several methods may be used to loosen it. First,
and dull wood chisel. Such a tool provides a apply penetrating oil, such as Liquid Wrench or
better purchase on the folded tab, making WD-40 (available at any hardware or auto sup-
straightening easier. ply store). Apply it liberally and allow it pene-
4. When installing the fold-over type lock- trate for 10-15 minutes. Tap the fastener several
washer, always use a new washer if possible. If times with a small hammer; do not hit it hard
a new washer is not available, always fold over enough to cause damage. Reapply the penetrat-
a part of the washer that has not been previously ing oil if necessary.
folded. Reusing the same fold may cause the
For frozen screws, apply penetrating oil as
washer to break, resulting in the loss of its lock-
described, then insert a screwdriver in the slot
ing ability and a loose piece of metal adrift in the
and tap the top of the screwdriver with a hammer.
engine. This loosens the rust so the screw can be re-
When folding the washer, start the fold with a moved in the normal way. If the screw head is
screwdriver and finish it with a pair of pliers. If too chewed up to use a screwdriver, grip the head
a punch is used to make the fold, the fold may be with locking pliers and twist the screw out.
too sharp, thereby increasing the chances of the
washer breaking under stress. Avoid applying heat unless specifically in-
These washers are relatively inexpensive and structed because it may melt, warp or remove the
it is suggested that you keep several of each size temper from parts.
in your tool box for repairs.
5. When replacing missing or broken fasteners
Remedying Stripped Threads
(bolts, nuts and screws), always use authorized
replacement parts. They are specially hardened
for each application. The wrong 50-cent bolt Occasionally, threads are stripped through
could easily cause serious and expensive dam- carelessness or impact damage. Often the threads
age. can be cleaned up by running a tap (for internal
6. When installing gaskets, always use author- threads on nuts) or die (for external threads on
ized replacement gaskets without sealer, unless bolts) through threads. See Figure 23.
32 CHAPTER TWO
Removing Broken Screws or Bolts or cut a slot in it to fit a screwdriver. See Figure
24.
When the head breaks off a screw or bolt, If the head breaks off flush. use a screw ex-
several methods are available for removing the tractor. To do this, centerpunch the remaining
remaining portion. portion of the screw or bolt. Drill a small hole in
If a large portion of the remainder projects out, the screw and tap the extractor into the hole.
try gripping it with vise-grip pliers. If the pro- Back the screw out with a wrench on the extrac-
jecting portion is too small, file it to fit a wrench tor. See Figure 25.
Filed Slotted
Chapter Three
Troubleshooting and Testing
Modem outboard engines are quite reliable when com- OUTBOARD ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
pared to earlier models. They provide inlpressive perfor-
mance and better fuel economy than those produced just a It is essential that the engine is correctly identified be-
few years ago. fore performing any testing, maintenance or repairs. Test
specifications and repair instructions may vary by model
As reliable as outboards have become, problems can year, optional equipment, serial number and other charac-
and eventually do occur. This chapter provides the infor- teristics. Use the serial/model number tag (Figure 1) to
mation and instructions to pinpoint the cause of most op- determine the following:
erational problems. 1. Seriallmodel number tag location.
2. Model name.
Follow the troubleshooting steps in this chapter to de-
termine which engine system is malfunctioning. Further 3. Power rating.
testing isolates defective or misadjusted components. 4. Model year.
5 . Engine configuration.
Test specifications and other useful information is pro- 6. Model indicator number.
vided in the tables located at the end of this chapter. 7. Unique serial number.
Before beginning any testing perform a quick visual in- NOTE
spection of the engine. Look for leaking fluid, discon- When ordering replacement parts, always
nected wires or damaged components. Refer to provide the Suzziki dealership with all the
Preliminmy Inspection in this chapter for a list of items to information listed on the serial/model num-
check and additional instructions. ber tag.
34 CHAPTER THREE
SerialIModel Number Tag Location
The seriallmodel number tag is affixed to one of the en-

gine clamp brackets (Figure 1). In addition, the unique se-
rial number is stamped into a welch plug affixed to the
power head (Figure 2).
On DF9.9 and DF15 models, the seriallmodel number
tag is affixed to the starboard side clamp bracket (Figure
1). The welch plug is located on the port side of the power
head (Figure 3) and below the ignition coil.
On DF25 and DF30 models, the seriallmodel number
1). The welch plug is located on the front side of the power
head below the breather tube (Figure 4).
1). The welch plug is located on the port side of the power
head below the flywheel cover (Figure 5).
tag is affixed to the port side clamp bracket (Figure 6).
The welch plug is located on the port side of the power
head above the bottom intake runner (Figure 7).
Model Name
Refer to the model name section (Figure 8) on the serial

number tag. The first four letters and numbers on the tag
indicate the model name.
Power Rating
Refer to the model code section of the serial number tag

(Figure 8). The numbers following DF indicate the en-
gine horsepower rating.
Model Year
Refer to the model name section of the serial number

tag (Figure 8). The last letter listed in the model name
section indicates the model year code. The model year
codes are listed in Table 4.
Engine Configuration
Suzuki outboards are produced in different configura-

tions. Engines vary by drive shaft length, starting system,
type of control system and trim or tilt system.
Refer to the model code section of the serial number tag
(Figure 8). The letters following the horsepower rating
indicate the engine configuration code. More than one
code letter may be listed. The last letter listed indicates the
TROUBLESHOOTING AND TESTING 35
Model name Model year
~ o d eindicator
i Unique serial
number number
of the same model and year to use different replacement

parts. The model indicator number is listed on the se-
riallmodel number tag (Figure 8). The dash marking
separates the model indicator number from the unique
serial number. This number indicates which replacement
parts listing to use and is often referred to as the serial
number prefix. Record this infromationin the Quick Ref-
erence Data section and have it available when purchas-
ing replacement parts.
Unique Serial Number
The unique serial number serves as a means to identify

the outboard from other Suzuki outboards of the same
model. This number is listed on the seriallmodel number
tag (Figure 8) and the power head welch plug. The dash
marking separates the unique serial number from the
model indicator number. In many states this number is
used to register or title the outboard. Record this number
and place it in a secure place. This number provides reli-
able identification if the engine is lost or stolen.
The first digit of the unique serial number indicates the
last digit of the model year. In this example (Figure 8) the
0 could indicate a 1990 or 2000 model year. Always refer
to the model code section of the serial number tag to cor-
model year of the engine and is not used to identify engine rectly identify the model year. Refer to Model Year for ad-
configuration. ditional information.
The model year code letters are listed in Table 5.
TROUBLESHOOTING TEST EQUIPMENT

Model Indicator Number
This section describes the basic operation and uses of
Manufacturers often make changes during a given various test equipment. These tools are available from au-
model year. These changes may require certain engines tomotive parts stores, tool suppliers and Suzuki dealer-
ships. Some of the electrical tests described in this nianual
require a special test harness that is available from Suzuki.
WARNING
Electrical shock can result in severe injury'
or death. Use extreme caution when work-
ing with electrical meters and test leads.
Never allow the conductive metallic por-
tions of the test lead to contact any portion
of the body. Never work while standing in
water or with wet components. High volt-
ages may be present on any electrical com-
ponent or wires on the engine.
NOTE
Variations exist in the scale range capability
and available functions in various meters.
Always refer to the instructions provided
with the meter for specific instructions.
Multimeter
The multimeter is an essential tool for electrical system

tests. They are available in analog (Figure 9) and digital
(Figure 10) versions. The digital type is preferred, as it
can measure smaller increments and is generally easier to
use. In some cases a specific meter is required. Such re-
quirements are noted when applicable. The use of a meter,
other than the type specified may result in inaccurate re-
sults.
Meter specifications, scale selection and connection
points vary by the brand and model. Always read the in-
structions for the selected meter prior to performing any
testing. Electric shock, damage to the meter or inaccurate
test results can result from improper meter usage. Have
the test performed by a qualified technician if uncomfort-
perform these tests a meter with a direct voltage adapter
able with the test instructions.
(DVA) or peak volt function and special adapters and/or
harnesses are required.
Voltage
Voltage is the electrical potential or pressure in an electri- Resistance

cal circuit and is expressed in volts. The more pressure
(voltage) in a circuit, the more work that can be performed.
Direct current (DC) voltage means the electricity flows Resistance is the opposition to the flow of electricity
in one direction. All circuits powered by a battery are DC within a circuit or component and is measured in ohms.
circuits. Resistance causes a reduction in available current and
Alternating current (AC) means that the electricity voltage.
flows in one direction momentarily then switches to the Resistance is measured in an inactive circuit with an
opposite direction. Alternator output is an example of AC ohmmeter. The ohmmeter sends a small amount of current
voltage. This voltage must be changed or rectified to di- into the circuit and measures how difficult it is to push the
rect current to operate in a battery powered system. current through the circuit. The higherllower the rcsis-
Some of the test procedures described require the mea- lance in a circuit, the higherllower the ohms reading on
surement of alternating current flow and peak voltage. To the meter.
37
the meter. Refer to the instructions that came with the me-
ter to measure such circuits.
Diodes act as electrical check valves within a circuit.
Diodes are used in the rectifierlregulator portion of the
charging system. Testing diodes requires measuring the
resistance then switching the test lead polarity. Typically
the resistance changes dramatically when the test lead po-
larity is switched..
NOTE
Due to differences in meter test lead polar-
ity, seemingly incorrect test results can re-
sult when testing diodes. Perform the
resistance testing with the test lead connec-
tion points reversed from the specification
before replacing the component. Correct
test results with the test leads reversed may
indicate that the diode is functioning prop-
e7dy
Amperage
Amperage is the unit of measure for the amount of cur-

rent within a circuit. Current is the actual flow of electric-
ity. The higher the current, the more work that can be
performed up to a given point. If current flow exceeds the
circuit or component capacity, the system will be dam-
aged.
An ammeter measures the current flow or amps of a cir-
cuit. Amperage measurement requires that the circuit be
A longer wire or circuit length provides greater resis- disconnected and the ammeter be connected in series to the
tance to electrical current flow. The wire diameter (gauge) circuit so that the current flow through the meter. Always
or type of material used in the circuit also affects resis- use an ainmeter/multimeter that can read higher than the
tance. Higher temperatures generally increases the mea- anticipated current flow to prevent damage to the meter.
sured resistance. Measure the resistance at normal room
temperature unless a given temperature is listed in the
specification. Vacuum/Pressure Gauges
A circuit with very low or no resistance is commonly re-
ferred to as a closed circuit. Current easily flows through Vacuum and pressure gauges (Figure 11) are used to
such a circuit. Test specifications gcnerally list continuity' test the fuel, lubrication and tiltltrim systems. These
for closed circuits. gauges are available from most tool suppliers and many
automotive parts stores.
An incomplete or broken circuit is commonly referred
to as an open circuit. Current flow requires voltage high
enough to jump any gap or opening within the circuit. An Compression Tester
example of an open circuit is a spark plug. Voltages of
15,000 volts or more are required to jump the spark plug An accurate compression tester (Figure 12) is essential
gap. Test specifications generally list 720 continuity for to properly diagnose power head problems. This tool
open circuits. measures the combustion chamber pressure at cranking
Circuits with very high resistance may list infinity as the speed. Use a compression tester capable of measuring
desired test result. In such circuits the circuit is complete pressure up to 16.0 kg/cm2 (226.0 psi) and follow the
yet the resistance is beyond the measuring capability of manufacturer instructions.
38 CHAPTER THREE
Gearcase Pressure Tester
The gearcase pressure tester (Figure 13) pinpoints the

source of leakage from the gearcase. This type of tester
can also be used to test other engine systems. Purchase
this tool from a marine tool supplier. Specific instructions
on the use of this tester are provided in this chapter.
Spark Gap Tester
Spark gap testers (Figure 14) determine if adequate

spark is present at the spark plug.
Testers are available that cheek for spark on a single or
multiple cylinders. Some testers have an adjustable spark
gap setting. Adjustable gap testers are useful with some
brands of outboards having a minimum spark gap specifi-
cation. Minimum spark gap specifications are not pro-
vided for Suzuki outboards.
TROUBLESHOOTING PREPARATION
Before testing any system or component always per-

form a preliminary inspection on the engine. Most opera-
tional problems are simple in nature and easy to remedy.
The first part of this section lists the basic operating re-
quirements for the engine. The second section lists in-
structions for performing a preliminary inspection on the
engine.
just the components listed under the applicable symptom.
To ensure safe and accurate testing always read the test
Check the following:
procedures thoroughly. If experience or equipment is
1. Ensure the fuel tank vent is opened.
lacking, have the procedure performed by an experience
2. Verify the engine has an adequate supply of fresh fuel.
marine repair shop.
3. Inspect the engine for loose, disconnected, dirty or cor-
roded wires.
Operating Requirements 4. Check the position of the lanyard engine stop switch if
so equipped.
The three basic requirements for an internal combustion 5 . Check the battery and cable connections for tight and
engine to run (Figure 15)include fuel and air in the proper clean connections (Chapter Seven).
proportion, adequate compression and ignition at the 6. Verify the battery is fully charged (Chapter Seven).
proper time. If any of these requirements are missing, the 7. Check the condition of the spark plugs and regap as
engine will not run. If any of these requirements are weak, necessary (Chapter Four).
the engine may not run properly. Most engine running 8. Test for spark at each cylinder. See Spark Test in this
problems are the result of defective or misaclj~~stcd com- chapter.
ponents affecting these three basic requirements. 9. Verify the boat hull is clean and in good condition.
10. Verify the correct propeller is used.
Preliminary Inspection
STARTING DIFFICULTY
Most engine malfunctions can be corrected by perform-
ing a preliminary inspection. Check all items listed in this Slow starting or an inability to start the engine is usually
section. If the problems persist after checking or correct- related to an engine malfunction. First verily proper start-
ing these items refer to Tables 1-3 and check, test or ad- ing procedures are followed. Starting procedures vary by
form electrical testing when fuel or fuel
vapors are present.
NOTE
Models DF40 and DF50 utilize an ignition
coil integrated into the spark plug connec-
tor When performing a spark test on these
models, connect the spark gap tester to the
sparkplug end of the connector. On all other
models connect the spark gap tester to the
end of the sparkplug cap.
model and optional equipment. Review the owner's man- 1. Make a note of the spark plug connector locations and
ual for starting procedures. This section provides infor- lead routing prior to disconnecting them. Disconnect all
mation to help pinpoint the cause of difficult starting. spark plug connectors. Remove the spark plugs as de-
Topics covered include: scribed in Chapter Four.
1. Determining a fuel or ignition fault. 2. Remove the propeller (Chapter Nine).
2. Spark test. 3. Connect the ground lead of the spark gap tester (A,
3. Checking the fuel system. Figure 16) to a suitable engine ground such as the cylin-
der head bolt.
4. Connect a spark plug connector to the spark gap tester
Spark Test (B, Figure 16). On adjustable spark gap testers, adjust the
gap to approximately 6 mm (114 in.).
The first step in isolating a starting problem is to deter-
5. Connect all remaining spark plug leads to a suitable
mine whether the cause is fuel or ignition related.
engine ground (C, Figure 16). Shift the engine into
This section provides instructions for checking the NEUTRAL. Ensure the ignition switch or key is on.
spark at the spark plug connector. A spark gap tester is re-
6. Observe the spark gap tester while operating the elec-
quired for this test.
tric or manual starter. Correct ignition system operation
Refer to Checking the FuelSystem in this chapter ifade-
produces a strong blue spark as the engine cranks.
quate spark is present yet starting difficulty persists.
7. Repeat Steps 3-6 for the remaining cylinders.
I i 4 RNLVG 8. Install the propeller.
Electric shock can cause serious injury or. 9. Clean and install the spark plugs and connect the spark
death. High voltages are generated b y the
plug connectors to the correct spark plug.
ignition system. Never touch wires or wire
connections while running the engine or 10. Refer to Ignition System Troubleshooting in this
perfor/n//zg the test. Never perform ignition chapter if a no spark or weak spark condition is indicated
.s'~~.ste~n
testing in wet conditions. Never pet- on any of the cylinders.
40 CHAPTER THREE
Checking the Fuel System
Fuels have a relatively short shelf life. Even if stored

under ideal conditions, fuel starts to deteriorate within a
few months.
Marine engine may sit idle for several weeks at a time
making them far more susceptible to fuel problems.
Starting difficulty, performance problems and potential
engine damage can result from using stale fuel.
As fuel evaporates, a gummy deposit may form in the
carburetor or other fuel system components. These depos-
its clog fuel filters, fuel lines, fuel pumps and small pas-
sages within the carburetor.
Fuel stored in a vented tank tends to absorb water vapor
over time. The water separates from the fuel, then settles
to the bottom of the tank leading to the formation of rust or
deposits in the fuel tank. Rust, water or deposits eventu-
ally contaminate the fuel system. Inspect the fuel in the
fuel tank if the engine refuses to start and the ignition sys-
tem is not at fault. An unpleasant or unusual odor indi-
cates the fuel has exceeded its shelf life and must be
replaced. Refer to Inspecting the Fuel for additional infor-
mation.
WARNING
Use extreme caution when working with the
fuel system. Fuel is extremely flamnzable
and i f ignited can result in serious injury or
death. Never smoke or allow sparks around
fuel or fuel vapors. Wipe up any spilled fuel
with a shop towel, then dispose of the shop
towel in a responsible manner. Check all stallation instructions are provided in Chapter Six. Inspect
fuel hoses, connections andfittings for leaks the fuel as follows:
after any fuel system repair. Correct all fuel
system leaks before returning the engine to 1. Disconnect and secure the negative battery cable so it
service. will not contact the battery terminal.
2A. On DF9.9-DF30 models perform the following:
NOTE Pull the drain hose (Figure 19) from the lower en-
Contact a local waste pickup service, auto- gine cover.
motive repair facility or marine dealership
to properly dispose the fuel. Direct the other end of the fuel into a container suit-
able for holding fuel.
Carefully open the bowl drain screw. Squeeze the
Inspecting the fuel primer bulb (Figure 20) a few times to fill the bowl.
Continue until an adequate fuel sample is obtained.
Float bowl drain hoses (Figure 17) on DF9.9, DF15
Securely close the bowl drain screw. Drain any re-
and DF25 models allow relatively easy draining of the
fuel in the float bowl. sidual fuel from the drain hose then pull the hose
from the drain fitting.
On models equipped with electronic fuel injection, a
dedicated fuel system drain is provided in the vapor sepa- On DF25 and DF30 models repeat these steps for
rator tank. Access to the fuel drain may require removal of the remaining two carburetors.
the intake manifold and other components. It is easier to 2B. On fuel injected models perform the following:
drain a sample of fuel from the hoses connected to the low a. Disconnect the hoses from fuel filter as described in
pressure fuel filter (Figure 18). Fuel filter removal and in- Chapter Six.
c. Thoroughly clean or replace all fuel filters.

7. Clean up spilled fuel. Gently squeeze the primer bulb
while checking for signs of fuel leakage. Correct the cause
of fuel leakage at once.
8. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
FUEL SYSTEM
WARNING
Use extreme caution when working on the
fuel system. Fuel presents a seriousjire risk.
Never smoke or allow sparks to occur
around fuel orfuel vapors. Wipe up spilled
fuel with a shop towel and dispose of the
towel in a responsible manner. Check all
fuel hoses, connections andfittings for leaks
after anyfuel system repair. Correct anyfuel
system leakage before returning the engine
to service.
This section provides instructions for inspecting and

testing the following:
1. Fuel tank, hoses and fittings.
2. Primer bulb.
3. Low pressure fuel filter.
4. Fuel pump.
5. Carburetor and choke valve (DF9.9, DF15, DF25 and
DF30 models).
Refer to Electronic Fuel Injection in this chapter to test
b. Place a suitable container under the disconnected specific EFI components.
hoses.
c. Slowly squeeze the primer bulb (Figure 20) while
Fuel Tank, Hoses and Fittings
capturing the fuel flowing from the hoses. Continue
until an adequate fuel sample is obtained. A fault with any of these components can cause stalling,
d. Reconnect the hoses as described in Chapter Six. rough idle or poor performance at higher engine speeds.
3. An inability to obtain a fuel sample indicates a faulty Many fuel tank related problems are the result of inade-
fuel tank, primer bulb, fuel hose, fuel pump, fitting or inlet quate fuel tank venting. Inadequate fuel tank venting
needle on carbureted models. Inspect these components causes a vacuum to form within the tank as fuel is drawn
following the instructions provided in Chapter Six. from it. Rough engine operation, poor performance or
4. Clean up any spilled fuel at once. Dispose of stalling occurs when the engine mounted fuel pump is un-
fuel-contaminated shop towels in a responsible manner. able to overcome the vacuum. Temporarily remove the
5. Carefully pour the fuel sample into a suitable fuel tank cap when suspecting inadequate venting. A
see-through container. closed or faulty vent is likely when the engine performs
6. Visually inspect then carefully smell the fuel. An un- correctly with the cap removed. On portable fuel tanks a
usual odor, debris, cloudy appearance or the presence of screw type vent is integrated into the fuel tank. This fea-
water is an indication of a problem with the fuel. If any of ture allows closing of the vent when transporting the fuel
these conditions are noted perform the following: tank. Always open the vent screw before starting the en-
a. Drain the fuel system and dispose of the fuel in a re- gine. A hull mounted vent fitting and hose is used with
sponsible manner. built in fuel tanks. Inspect this fitting for debris blockage
b. Clean and inspect the entire fuel system if water is (especially insects).
found. Refer to Chapter Six for fuel system repair Loose clamps, worn quick connectors or leaking hoses
instructions.. allow air to enter the fuel system. Air intrusion may result
42 CHAPTER THREE
1. Pickup adapter
2. Pickup screen
3. Gasket
4. Fuel level float
5. Primer bulb
6. Cap
7. Tank
in inadequate fuel flow at higher engine speeds. Higher

engine speeds require a greater amount of fuel. The air
Fill cap
displaces the fuel required for the engine. Typical symp-
toms include poor performance, rough running conditions structure
or misfire at higher engine speeds. Under normal circum-
stances small amounts of vapor or air are purged from the
fuel system. Air entering the system combined with
slower fuel pump speed at idle prevent the air from being
adequately purged. Typically the engine stalls after run-
ning at idle speed for a few minutes. Fuel tank
Collapsed hoses, faulty connectors or blocked passages
restrict fuel flow to the engine. Typically fuel restriction
problems surface only at higher engine speeds. The re-
striction usually allows adequate fuel flow at lower engine
speeds. Often times the primer bulb collapses at higher
engine speeds. This condition indicates the restriction is Remove the tank for cleaning and inspection when leak-
located between the primer bulb and the fuel tank pickup. age, rust or excessive amounts of contaminants are found
Be aware that improper primer bulb installation or a faulty in the fuel sample.
check valve can cause a collapsed primer bulb. Fuel re- Built in fuel tanks are usually equipped with an
strictions typically cause a rough running condition, poor antisiphon valve. This valve is mounted to the pickup tube
performance or misfire at higher engine spccds. fitting. It prevents fuel from flowing from the tank should
a leak occur in the fuel supply hose. Be m a r e that a
Small outboards are usually equipped with a portable
blocked or faulty antisiplion valve can cause a fuel rcstric-
fuel tank (Figure 21). They are easily removed for filling,
tion. Always replace the valve if found to be blocked or
cleaning and inspection. Larger boats with larger out-
corroded.
boards are equipped with built in fuel tanks (Figure 22).
Access panels in the boat allow access to the serviceable WARNING
electric sending unit and fuel pickup tube. Removal of Automotive type replacement fuel hose may
built in fuel tanks can be quite difficult. In many cases the not meet the requirements /or the outboard.
boat structure must be disassembled to access the tank. Fuel leakage may occur and result in a fire
condition causing the leakage usually affects both con-
nectors.
Inspect the section of hose from the primer bulb to the
fuel tank connection. Tighten or replace hose clamps
when leakage is detected at hose connection points. Pump
the primer bulb until it firms up. A spongy feel or inability
to firm up the bulb indicates possible air leakage. The
leakage point is at the fuel tank connection, fuel hoses or
fuel tank pickup. First test the primer bulb as described in
this chapter. A faulty connection, fuel hose or fuel tank
pickup is indicated if the primer bulb tests correctly. Dis-
assemble and inspect these components as described in
Chapter Six.
Checking for a fuel restriction
NOTE
The engine must be run at full throttle for
several minutes to verify afaulty fuel tank or
fuel supply hose.
The most effective method for checking the fuel supply

is to temporarily run the engine on a known good portable
fuel tank and fuel supply hose. Ensure the inside diameter
of the fuel hose and fuel fittings is 6.4 mm (114 in.) or
larger. Using hoses or fittings that are too small can result
or explosion. Al~vaj~s use marine specific in a fuel restriction at higher engine speeds. Fill the porta-
hose sold b j the tank or engine manufizc-
ble tank with fresh fuel then connect the fuel hose to the
turer.
engine. Run the engine under actual condition. A faulty
NOTE fuel supply hose or fuel tank is indicated when the engine
Alu avs check to ensure the fuel tank cut is performs properly with the known good fuel tank. On ap-
open befole testing the fuel tank The vent i s plications with a built-in fuel tank, inspect the antisiphon
integrated into the fill cap on mo^t portable valve for defects before condemning other fuel system
fuel tanks A boat mounted fuel tank uses a components.
boat mounted vent liose and hull fittilig
Pump the primer bulb, while an assistant operates the
boat, if the engine malfunctions. A faulty engine mounted
Checkingfor air orfuel leakage fuel pump or partially blocked fuel filter is indicated when
the engine performs properly only when the primer bulb is
Leakage can occur at any point alonethe fuel supply pumped. Inspect the fuel pump and filter as described in
hose (Figure 23). Disconnect the quick connector from Chapter Six. A flooding carburetor or faulty vapor separa-
the engine. Gently squeeze the primer bulb while inspect- tor tank 011 EFI models is indicated when the problem
ing the section from the primer bulb to the cheek valve worsens when the primer bulb is pumped. Check these
portion of the quick connector (Figure 24). Tighten or re- components as described in this chapter.
place hose clamps when leakage is detected at hose con-
nection points. Replace the hose, primer bulb and quick
CAUTION
connectors if found to be leaking. Avoid using excessive force when pumping
Carefully connect the fuel supply hose to the engine. the primer bulb. The pressure in the line
Again gently squeeze the primer bulb while inspecting the may exceed the normal fuel system pres-
quick connectors. Replace both the fuel hose and engine sures and lead tofuel leakage or a flooding
mounted quick connectors if fuel leakage is detected. The condition within thefuel system.
Primer Bulb
The primer bulb (Figure 25) is a hand operated fuel

pump integrated into the fuel supply hose. It fills the fuel 1 Primer bulb
hoses and carburetor fuel bowl or vapor separator tank 011
EFI models with fuel prior to starting the engine. This
pump is necessary as fuel tends to evaporate from the fuel
system during periods of non-use. Considerable cranking
is required before the engine-mounted pump can provide
enough fuel for starting. A faulty primer bulb can prevent ~ankside h g i n e side
check valve check valve
priming of the fuel system or cause a fuel restriction.
Pump the primer bulb only if the engine has been off for
several hours. Never use excessive force when pumping
the primer bulb. Excessive force can cause the fuel system
to flood. Gently squeeze the primer bulb until it becomes
firm. A firm primer bulb indicates that the carburetor fuel
bowl or vapor separator tank on EFI models is full.
Additives in the fuel can cause deterioration of some
rubber and composite fuel system components including
the primer bulb. This deterioration occurs on the inner
surfaces of the primer bulb. Squeeze the primer bulb until
fully compressed then quickly release it. Replace the
primer bulb if it tends to stick together on the internal sur-
faces or remains collapsed. Thoroughly inspect the fuel
hoses and other fuel system components when this condi-
tion is noted. They also may have deteriorated surfaces.
The primer bulb system (Figure 25) consists of the
bulb, tank side check valve and engine side check valve.
Testing for leakage and correct check valve operation re-
quires a pressure/vacuum pump (Figure 26). These are
available fro111 most automotive parts stores, tool suppli-
ers or a Suzuki dealership (part No. 09917-479 10). Pres-
sure test the primer bulb as follows:
1. Disconnect the fuel supply hose from the engine and
fuel tank*connection. Place the primer bulb over a con-
tamer suitable for holding fuel. Remove and discard the
hose clamps at both fuel hose connections to the primer
bulb. Carefully pull both fuel lines from the primer bulb.
Drain all fuel from the disconnected hoses.
2. The arrow marking on the primer bulb body points to
the engine side check valve. Direct the engine side check
valve into a suitable container then carefully squeeze the
primer bulb until all fuel is removed.
3. Connect the pressure fitting of a hand operated pres- side (Figure 28). Clamp the pump hose securely to the
sure/vacuum pump to the check valve fitting on the tank check hose fitting. Gently operate the hand operated
side (Figure 27). Clamp the pump hose securely to the fit- pump. Air must not exit the tank side check valve fitting
ting. Gently operate the hand operated pump. Air must when the pump is operated. Replace the primer bulb if in-
exit the engine side check valve fitting when the pump is correct test results are indicated.
operated. Replace the primer bulb if incorrect test results
are indicated. 5. Connect the pressure/vacuum pump to the primer bulb
4. Connect the pressure fitting of a hand operated pres- as described in Step 4. Submerge the primer bulb in a con-
sure/vacuuni pump to the check valve fitting on the engine tainer of water. Gently pump the hand operated pressure
Low-Pressure Fuel Filter
A blocked low-pressure fuel filter causes hard starting,

stalling, misfire or poor performance. Typically the en-
gine malfunction worsens with increased engine speed.
This filter prevents contaminants from reaching the
low-pressure fuel pump.
An inline fuel filter (Figure 29) is used on DF9.9 and
DF 15 models. This filter is mounted on the rear port side of
the power head. A canister fuel filter (Figure 30) is used on
the remaining models. On DF25, DF30, DF40 and DF50
models the filter is mounted on the rear starboard side of
the power head. 011 DF60 and DF70 models the filter is
mounted on the front port side of the power head.
These fuel filters allow visual inspection for contamina-
tion and are nonserviceable. Replace the filter when an in-
spection reveals dark staining or visible contaminants
(Chapter Six).
Fuel Pump
A camshaft driven mechanical fuel pump (Figure 31)

pumps fitel from the fuel tank to the carburetor or vapor
separator tank on EFI models.
On DF9.9 and DFI 5 models the fuel pump is mounted
to the rocker arm cover at the rear of the power head. On
DF25 models the fuel pump is mounted to the cylinder
head and on the rear starboard side of the power head. On
all other models the fuel pump is mounted to the camshaft
pump. Replace the primer bulb if indications of leakage cover at the rear of the power head.
are noted. Thoroughly dry the primer bulb. The most common fuel pump problem is inadequate
6. Use the arrow on the primer bulb for correct or~enta- fuel pressureldelivery. However, the pump may leak (in-
tion, then install the fuel hoses onto the check valve fit- ternally or externally) or provide, in rare cases, excessive
tings. The arrow must point to the hose leading to the fuel pressure.
engine. Install new hose clamps onto both fuel hose con- Inadequate fuel delivery may cause rough operation,
nections. Ensure the clamps fit securely. Pump the primer misfire or stalling at idle speed. However. in most cases
bulb while checking for correct operation and fuel leak- inadequate fuel delivery surfaces only at higher cngine
age. Correct fuel leakage before operating the engine. speeds because the fuel pump is able to supply the fuel
46 AFTER THREE
needed at lower engine speeds. Typical fuel pump testing

requires a gauge installed to the outlet side of the fuel
pump. Fuel pump pressure testing is time consuming and
can be potentially dangerous if fuel leakage is present. A
practical method is to use the hand operated primer bulb
as an auxiliary fuel pump. While an assistant operates the
engine, vigorously pump the primer bulb if a fault occurs.
Stop pumping the bulb and note if the fault again surfaces.
A faulty fuel pump is likely if the engine performs cor-
rectly only when the primer bulb is pumped.
External fuel leakage results from loose fuel pump
screws or leaking gaskets. Internal fuel leakage allows
fuel into the rocker arm or camshaft cover. The fuel di-
lutes the engine oil. Operating the engine with diluted oil
will cause increased wear and power head failure if not
corrected. Always check the oil level and condition as de-
scribed in Chapter Four before operating the outboard. In-
ternal leakage causes a strong fuel smell in the oil and a
rising oil level. Correct this condition immediately.
Excessive fuel pump pressure causes a flooding condi-
tion within the carburetor(s) or vapor separator tank on
EFI models. High fuel pump pressure is caused by a me-
chanically damaged fuel pump. Suspect a fault with the
fuel pump when flooding carburetor symptoms exist only
when the engine is running and the static check, see
Flooding carburetor, reveals no faults. Repair the fuel
pump as described in Chapter Six if inadequate fuel deliv-
ery, fuel leakage or high fuel pump pressure is indicated.
CA UTION Rough idle or stalling at idle

Never run an outboard without firstprovid-
ing cooling water. Use either a test tank or 1. Choke valve/solenoid malfunction.
flushhst device. Always remove the propel- 2. Flooding carburetor.
ler before running the engine on a flush/test 3. Impropcr carburetor adjustments or synchronization.
device. Install a testpropeller to run the en- 4. Plugged carburetor passages.
gine in a test tank. 5. Air leakage at the carburetor mount.
NOTE
Shaking at various engine speeds
Always inspect all fuel filters before testing
the fuel pump.
1 . Improper carburetor adjustment or synchronization
2. Choke valve malfunction.
3. Plugged carburetor passages.
Carburetor 4. Improper float level adjustment.
5. Air leakage at the carburctor mount.
This section provides typical carburetor (Figure 32) re-
lated symptoms and possible causes. The possible causes Bogging or soggiizg on acceleration
and corrective action is further explained in the sections
that follow. 1. Improper carburetor adjustment or synchronization.
DF9.9 and DF15 models are equipped with one carbu- 2. Faulty accelerator pump.
retor, while DF25 and DF30 models have three. All other 3. Plugged carburetor passages.
models are equipped with EFI. 4. Improper float level adjustment.
Flooding carburetor
A flooding condition allows excessive amount of fuel

into the engine. This condition niay cause rough idling,
stalling, excessive exhaust smoke and spark plug fouling.
Flooding may be caused by debris in the inlet needle
and seat, a worn inlet needle and seat, or a misadjusted or
damaged float.
It is not necessary to run the engine to verify a flooding
condition. A visual inspection of the carburetor opening
indicates a flooding condition. Position the engine in the
vertical or normal running position before checking for a
flooding condition. Inaccurate test results are likely if the
engine is tilted during testing.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect and
ground the spark plug leads.
5. Flooding carburetor.
2A. On DF9.9 and DF15 models remove the silencer
6. Incorrect propeller. covet as follows:
a. Disconnect the choke linkage from the choke lever
Spark plug fouling (Figure 33).
b. Have an assistant support the carburetor then re-
move both carburetor mounting bolts (Figure 34).
1 Choke valve/solenoid malfunction.
Do not allow the carburetor to separate from its
2. Improper carburetor adjustment or synchronization. mount.
3. Flooding carburetor. c. Pull silencer cover (Figure 35) from the front of the
4. Improper float level adjustment. carburetor.
5. Plugged carburetor passages. d. Reinstall both carburetor mounting bolts. Securely
tighten the bolts.
2B. On DF25and DF30 models remove tlie silencer
Poor performance at higher engine speed cover as follows:
a. Remove tlie manual starter as described in Chapter
I. Plugged carburetor passages. Ten. Remove the flywheel cover on electric start
models as described in Chapter Eight.
2. Choke valve/solenoid malfunction.
b. Remove all four bolts (Figure 36) from the silencer
3. Improper float level adjustment. cover.
4. Improper carburetor adjustments or synchronization. c. Pull the silencer cover away from the silencerlcar-
5. Air leakage at the carburetor mount. buretor mounting base.
48 CHAPTER THREE
3. On models equipped with a choke valve, open it fully

(Figure 37). Look into the front of each carburetor (Fig-
ure 38) while gently pumping the primer bulb. Fuel flow-
ing from the opening or into the throat indicates a flooding
condition.
4. Repair the carburetor as described in Chapter Six if
flooding is detected.
5A. On DF9.9 and DF15 models install the silencer cover
as follows:
a. Support the carburetor, then remove the carburetor
mounting bolts (Figure 34).
b. While supporting the carburetor, place the silencer
cover (Figure 35) onto the front of the carburetor.
Ensure the front opening faces slightly downward.
c. Align the silencer cover to the carburetor opening,
then install the carburetor mounting bolts. Tighten
the mounting bolts evenly to 10 Nmin (84 in-lb.).
d. Carefully connect the choke linkage to the choke le-
ver (Figure 33).
5B. On DF25 and DF30 models install the silencer cover
as follows:
a. Align the silencer cover with the silencer Icarburc-
tor mounting base.
b. Ensure the ridges on the silencer cover fit into the
groove on the mounting base, then install all four
bolts (Figure 36). Securely tighten the bolts.
c. Install the manual starter as described in Chapter
Ten. Install the flywheel cover on electric start mod-
els as described in Chapter Eight. ation can cause hard starting, rough engine operation,
8. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the negative stalling or spark plug fouling.
battery cable. The choke knob (Figure 41) and connecting linkage ac-
tuate the choke valve on tiller control models. An electric
Choke valve ~ n a I f i u d o n
choke solenoid (Figure 42) actuates the choke valve on
remote control models. The choke solenoid operates the
DF9.9, DF15 and DF25 models use a choke valve (Fig- choke valve when the ignition switch is pushed in.
ure 39) When the choke valve is closed (Figure 40) the Operate the choke valve only if starting a cold engine.
ratio of fuel to air is increased. Incorrect choke valve oper- Operating the choke on a warm engine causes hard start-
choke valve lever (Figure 43). On models DF25 and

DF30 the choke valve is visible upon removing the si-
lencer cover. Check for correct choke valve operation as
follows:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the
spark plug leads and connect the leads to an engine
ground.
2. On DF25 models remove the silencer cover as follows:
a. Remove the manual starter as described in Chapter
Ten. Remove the flywheel cover on electric start
models as described in Chapter Eight.
b. Remove all four bolts (Figure 36) from the silencer
cover.
c. Pull the silencer cover away from the silenccrlcar-
buretor mounting base.
3A. On DF9.9 and DF15 models with tiller control check
the choke valve operation as follows:
a. Push in on the choke knob (Figure 41) to fully open
the choke valve.
b. The choke linkage connector should be over the si-
lencer cover mounting flange (Figure 44).
c. Pull out on the choke knob to fully close the choke
valve.
d. The choke linkage connector should be in line with
the boss for the choke valve spring.
e. Replace the bent or damaged choke linkage ifincor-
rect operation is noted.
3B. On DF9.9 and DF15 models with remote control
check the choke valve operation as follows:
ing, rough engine operation, excessive exhaust smoke and a. Place the control handle in the forward gear position
spark plug fouling. As a general rule, refrain from operat- to prevent activation of the electric starter.
ing the choke unless the engine has been off for two hours b. Place the ignition switch in the run position. Do not
or more. place the switch in the start position.
Testing requires visual inspection of choke valve or c. Have an assistant repeatedly push in then releasc the
choke valve lever. On DF9.9 and DF 15 models the choke ignition switch while observing the choke valve le-
valve is integrated into the silencer cover. The silences ver (Figure 43).
cover must be in place for correct choke valve operation. d. The choke valve lever should move toward the
The choke valve operation is checked by observing the choke solenoid when the switch is pushed in and
away as the switch is released. Turn the ignition
switch OFF. Shift the engine to NEUTRAL.
e. Perform a choke solenoid resistance test as de-
scribed in this section if incorrect choke valve oper-
ation is noted.
3C. On DF25 and DF30 models with tiller control check
the choke valve as follows:
a. Push in on the choke knob (Figure 41) to open fully
the choke valve.
b. The choke valve should be in the open position
(Figure 39).
c. Pull out on the choke knob to close fully the choke
valve.
d. The choke valve should be in the fully closed posi-
tion (Figure 40).
e. Replace missing, bent or broken linkages if incor-
rect choke valve operation is noted.
3D. On DF25 and DF30 models with remote control Positive lead
check the choke valve as follows: \
a. Place the control handle in the forward gear position
to prevent activation of the electric starter.
b. Place the ignition switch in the run position. Do not
place the switch in the start position.
c. Have an assistant repeatedly push in then release the
ignition switch while observing the choke valve
(Figure 39).
d. The choke valve should close fully (Figure 40) as ~ h o k solenoid
e
the switch is pushed in and fully open (Figure 39)
as the switch is released. Turn the ignition switch
OFF. Shift the engine to NEUTRAL.
e. Perform a choke solenoid resistance test as de-
scribed in this section if incorrect choke valve oper- is mounted to the top of the carburetor. On DF25 and
ation is noted. DF30 models the choke solenoid is mounted above and
4. On DF25 and DF30 models install the silencer cover as slightly behind the top carburetor. It is not necessary to re-
follows: move the choke solenoid for testing. Test the choke sole-
a. Align the silencer cover with the silencer lcarbure- noid resistance as follows:
tor mounting base. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect
b. Ensure the ridges on the silencer cover fit into the both choke solenoid wires from the engine wire hamess.
groove on the mounting base then install all four
2. Calibrate a mutimeter to Rxl.
bolts (Figure 36). Securely tighten the bolts.
c. Install the manual starter as described in Chapter 3. Connect the meter test leads to the wires leading to the
Ten. Install the flywheel cover on electric start mod- solenoid (Figure 46).
els as described in Chapter Eight. 4. Compare the measured resistance with the specifica-
5. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the negative tion in Table 16.
battery cables. 5. Replace the solenoid if resistance is incorrect. If the re-
sistance is within specification and the solenoid does not
operate, test the ignition switch, wire harness, wire con-
Choke solenoid resistance test nector or fuse as described in this chapter.
This section provides instructions for testing the resis- 6. Connect the solenoid leads to the engine wire harness.
tance of the coil within the choke solenoid. This compo- Route the wires so they do not contact any moving com-
nent is used on remote control DF9.9-DF25 models. On ponents. Retain the wires with clamps if necessary.
DF9.9 and DF 15 models the choke solenoid (Figure 45) 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
lean mixture. These conditions could result in hard start-

ing, rough idling, poor performance, or excessive exhaust
smoke. If the setting is considerably off the carburetor 3
could flood or run out of fuel.
The float level adjustment controls the fuel level. Check
and adjust the float level as described in Chapter Six.
Plugged carburetor passages
Plugged carburetor passages and jets cause hard starl-

ing or operational problems at any engine speed. Prob-
lems caused by plugged passages and jets usually surface
after the engine has been stored for several months or lon-
ger. Contamination often forms in the fuel bowl as the fuel
evaporates. When fresh fuel enters the bowl, contamina-
tion plugs the carburetor passages.
Plugged jets or passages can cause hard starting, stall-
ing or rough operation at various engine speeds. Typically
the engine starts then dies as the choke is opened. This oc-
curs because the choke valve is compensating for the lean
mixture.
Eliminate all other potential problems (Preliminary In-
spection in this chapter) before assuming the carburetor is
at fault. If fuel contamination is found, repair the carbure-
tor as described in Chapter Six and inspect the entire fuel
system for similar contamination to prevent future carbu-
Improper carburetor adjustments retor problems.
or synchronization
Faulty accelerator pump
Improper carburetor adjustment can cause hard start-
ing, rough idling, stalling or hesitation on acceleration. The accelerator pump (Figure 47) provides additional
a Each model is equipped with an idle adjustment screw. fuel to the engine during rapid acceleration. The addi-
Some models also have adjustable pilot screws. The pilot tional fuel is necessary to prevent a lean condition until
screw adjustment effects the fuel mixture at lower engine high speed fuel delivery occurs. A fault with the accelera-
speeds. If a poor running condition occurs at me- tor pump causes a popping noise, bogging or stalling upon
dium-to-high speeds the pilot screw adjustment is not the rapid acceleration. Typically the engine performs cor-
cause. rectly if the throttle is advanced slowly. Slow throttle ad-
DF25 and DF30 models must have their carburetors vancement allows gradual high speed fuel delivery. The
properly synchronized for efficient operation. Carburetor accelerator pump is integrated into the carburetor. Repair
synchronization ensures that they open at the same time the carburetor as described in Chapter Six if these syinp-
and the same amount throughout the throttle range. Incor- toms are noted.
rect synchronization can cause hard starting, erratic idling
and poor acceleration performance.
Air leaks at the carburetor mount
Carburetor adjustment and synchronization are covered
in Chapter Five. Air leakage at the carburetor to intake manifold mount-
ing surfaces (Figure 48) causes a lean airlfuel mixture.
Improper float level adjustment Typical air leak symptoms include:
1. A hissing or squealing noise from the engine.
The carburetor fuel level has a significant effect on en- 2. Rough idle.
gine performance. A higher than specified fuel level will 3. Hesitation on acceleration.
result in a rich mixture, while a lower one will result in a 4. Poor high speed performance.
52 CHAPTER THREE
5. Spark plug overheating (Chapter Four).

A common method for locating a leakage point involves
the use of a common spray lubricant such as WD-40. Run
the engine under normal conditions, using a flush test
adapter (Chapter Four) or in a test tank. Run the engine at
idle speed then spray the lubricant onto all carbure-
tor-to-intake mating surfaces (Figure 48). The spray type
lubricant is drawn into the engine at the point of leakage.
An increase in idle speed or any change in the idle charac-
teristic when the lubricant is sprayed indicates leakage.
Direct the spray type lubricant to specific areas to pinpoint
the leakage. Remove the carburetor as directed in Chapter
Six then inspect the suspected surfaces for damage. Al-
ways replace the carburetor and intake gaskets when re-
moved.
When the starter button or ignition switch is activated
CA UTION current flows to the neutral-only start switch and through
Continued lean operating conditions can the switch if the gearcase is in neutral. This activates the
lead to power head damage. starter relay and closes the battery-to-starter circuit,
which activates the starter.
STARTING SYSTEM
Testing the Electric Starting System
This section provides test instructions for the starting
system and related components. DF9.9, DF 15 and DF25 Failure to operate or slow rotation of the starter can be
models use either a rewind type manual starter (Figure caused from numerous sources. Check the battery as de-
49) or an optional electric starting system. All other mod- scribed in Chapter Seven before testing the starting sys-
els are equipped with electric starting. tern. Perform the tests in the following order:
The major components of the electric starting system 1. Voltage at the starter.
(Figure 50) include the battery, starter button or ignition 2. Voltage at the starter relay.
switch, starter motor, starter relay, neutral-only start 3. Voltage to the starter button or ignition switch.
switch and wiring. 4. Testing the neutral only start switch.
5. Testing the starter relay.
WARNING 6. Testing the starter button.
Use extreme caution when working around
batteries. Never smoke or allow sparks to 7. Testing the ignition switch.
occur in or around batteries. Batteries pro-
duce explosive hydrogen gas which can ex- Voltage at the electric starter
plode resulting in bodily injury or death.
Never make thefinal connection o f a circuit 1. Disconnect and ground the leads from each spark plug
to the battery terminal as an arc may occur. as described in Chapter Four.
and lead tofire or explosion.
2. Locate the large red wire connecting the starter relay to
the starter (Figure 52). Carefully pull the insulating cover
Electric Starter Operation away to access the starter cable terminal near the bottom
of the starter (Figure 53).
The starter motor (Figure 51) is capable of producing a 3. Select the 20 or 40 VDC scale on the mutimeter, Con-
large amount of torque for a short period of time. Genes- nect the positive meter test lead to the starter wire terminal
ating the torque necessary to start the engine consumes a (Figure 53).Connect the negative meter test lead to the en-
large amount of current and in doing so produces a fair gine ground terminal at the top of the starter (Figure 54).
amount of heat. Prolonged operation is the most common 4. Shift the engine into NEUTRAL. Have an assistant op-
cause of starter failure. Never operate the electric starter crate the starter button or ignition switch while reading the
for over 20 seconds without allowing it to cool for at least voltage measurement. A voltage reading of 9.5-1 1.5 volts
two minutes. is normal.
TYPICAL STARTING CIRCUIT
Battery
starter button
or ignition switch
54 CHAPTER THREE
5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 with the negative meter test lead

connected to a suitable engine ground. A dirty or faulty
starter ground wire connection is indicated if a different
voltage reading is measured in Step 5 than in Step 4. Clean
or repair faulty wire connections as required.
6A. A defective fuse, starter relay, neutral-only start
switch, starter button, ignition switch or wiring is indi-
cated if no voltage is noted in Steps 4 and 5. Perform the
Voltage at the starter relay test as described in this section.
6B. A defective starter motor is indicated if correct volt-
age is indicated in Step 4 yet the starter fails to operate or
operates slowly. Repair the starter as described in Chapter
Seven.
6C. A defective battery, battery terminal, wire terminal or
starter relay is indicated if less than 9.5 VDC is measured
in Step 4. Test, replace or repair these components as re-
quired.
7. Position the insulating cover over the starter wire ter-
minal (Figure 53). Reconnect the spark plug leads.
Voltage at the starter relay
The mounting location for the starter relay varies by

model. On DF9.9, DF15 and DF25 models the relay (Fig-
ure 55) is mounted on the port side of the power head and
just below the flywheel. On DF40 and DF50 models the
starter relay is located on the starboard side of the power
head and next to the electric starter (Figure 56). On DF60
and DF70 models the starter relay is located on the star-
board side of the power head and just to the rear of the si-
lencer cover (Figure 57). PORT SIDE VIEW
1. Disconnect the spark plug leads and connect them to DF9.9, DF15 AND DF25 MODELS
an engine ground. Shift the engine into NEUTRAL.
2. Select the 20 or 40 VDC scale on the multimeter. Con-
nect the negative meter test lead to a suitable engine
ground. Connect the positive meter lead to the battery ca-
ble side of the relay. A measurement of 12 VDC or higher
should be noted. Low or no voltage indicates a faulty bat-
tery, battery cable or terminal. Clean, repair or replace
these components as required.
3. Connect the negative meter test lead to a suitable en-
gine ground. Connect the positive meter lead to the starter
cable side of the relay. Do not select the cable leading to
the battery for this test. Have an assistant operate the
starter button or ignition switch while observing the volt-
age reading. A reading of 9.5 VDC or greater should be
noted.
4. Carefully disconnect the yellowlgreen wire from the
relay. Connect the positive meter test lead to the discon-
nected wire. Connect the negative meter test lead to the
wire terminal for the small black wire leading to the
starter relay. Have an assistant operate the starter button or
STARBOARD SIDE VIEW

DF40 AND DF50 MODELS
Manifold temperature
Rectifierl
regulator
this step but not in Step 4. Clean, repair or replace the

black wire or terminals as required.
6. A faulty starter relay is indicated if incorrect voltage is
noted in Step 3 only. Low voltage readings in both Steps 3
and 4 indicate a faulty fuse, neutral only start switch,
starter buttonlignition switch or wire. Test these compo-
nents as described in this chapter.
7. Reconnect the spark plug leads.
Voltage at the starter button or ignition switch
A starter button is used on DF9.9, DF15 and DF25 tiller

control models. On DF9.9 and DF15 models the starter
button is mounted on the front side of the tiller control
ignition switch while observing the voltage reading. A bracket. On DF25 and DF30 models the starter button is
reading of 12 VDC or higher should be noted. mounted on the starboard side of the tiller control bracket.
5. Repeat Step 4 with the negative meter test lead con- A dash or remote control mounted ignition switch is used
nected to a suitable engine ground. The meter should read on all remote control models. Long jumper leads may be
12 VDC or higher. A faulty connection or defective small required to test remote control models. DF40-DF70 tiller
black wire is indicated if the correct voltage is noted in control models use an ignition switch mounted to the tiller
56 CHAPTER THREE
control. This is the same type of switch used on remote

control models.
Access to the starter button or ignition switch wire con-
nector is required for testing. This may require partial dis-
assembly of the remote control or tiller control ho~~sing.
Blown fuses and corroded terminals and disconnected
wires are the primary cause for no or low voltage at the
starter button or ignition switch. Check for and correct
these conditions before disassembling any other compo-
nents. On remote control models, cycle the ignition switch
to the ON position while observing the dash mounted in-
str~~nients. The instruments receive voltage from the igni-
tion switch. A blown fuse or faulty wiring is not likely if
the instrunlents come on with the ignition switch.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Access the voltage supply wire for the selected model
as follows:
a. On DF9.9, DF 15 and DF25 tiller control models lo-
cate the starter button on the tiller control bracket.
Disconnect the white starter button wire from the
white and whitelred engine harness wires.
b. 0 1 1 DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF70 tiller control
models remove the lower cover from the tiller con-
trol as described in Chapter Eleven. Trace the white
ignition switch wire to the tiller control harness.
Disconnect the white wire from the harness.
c. Ignition switch mounted in the remote con-
trol-Disassemble the remote control as described
in Chapter Twelve to access the ignition switch
wires. Trace the white ignition switch wire to the re-
mote control harness. Disconnect the white wire
from the harness.
d. Dash mounted ignition switch-Locate the ignition 7. Reassemble the remote control or tiller control bracket
switch wires beneath the dashboard. Trace the white as described in the appropriate chapter. Connect the nega-
ignition switch wire to the instrument harness. Dis- tive battery cables.
connect the wire from the instrument harness.
NOTE
3. Select the 20 or 40 VDC scale on the multimeter. Con-
Manual start DF9.9 and DF15 models (se-
nect the positive meter test lead to the harness side of the rial No. 652501-on) use an engine mounted
white wire. Connect the negative meter test lead to a suit- 1ieutrc11-only start switch T/ILSswitch pre-
able engine ground. vents ignition system operation if attempt-
4. Connect the negative battery cable. The correct volt- ing to start the engine in gear. Refer to
age reading is 12 volts or greater. No or low voltage indi- Ignition System in this chapter for test in-
cates a faulty battery, fuse, wire or connection. Inspect structions on this switch.
these components for defects as described in this chapter.
5. Test the starter button, ignition switch, neutral-only
start switch and starter relay if the correct voltage reading Neutral-only start switch test
is noted.
6. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect the All electric start models use an engine mounted neu-
test leads. Connect the starter switch or white ignition tral-only start switch (Figure 58). This switch opens the
switch wire to the engine wire harness, remote control circuit leading to the starter relay if the engine is shifted
harness, tiller control harness or instrument harness. into FORWARD or REVERSE. The switch is mountcd to
Route all wires to prevent interference. allow direct contact with the shift linkage
TROUBLESHOOTING AN 57
\erse gear. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 several times to check for

intermittent faults.
5. Replace the neutral only start switch if incorrect switch 3
operation is noted in Steps 3 or 4.
6. Disconnect the test leads. Connect the yellowlgreen
and brown wires. Route all wires to prevent interference.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Starter relay test
Testing requires a multimeter, fully charged cranking

battery and jumper leads. The first section tests the resis-
tance of the winding within the starter relay. The second
provides a functional test to verify correct switching
within the relay. Perform both the resistance and func-
tional test. Replace the relay if it fails either test.
I. Remove the starter relay from the power head as de-
scribed in Chapter Seven.
2. Test the resistance of the internal winding as follows:
a. Set the multimeter to Rxl .
b. Connect the positive meter test lead to the yel-
lowlgreen starter relay wire (Figure 60).
c. Connect the negative meter test lead to the black
wire or relay ground (Table 13).
d. Note the resistance reading. Replace the relay if the
resistance measurement is not with the specification
in Table 13.
3. Perform the starter relay functional test as follows:
a. Set the multimeter to Rxl.
b. Connect the positive meter test lead to one of the
large diameter wire terminals of the relay (Figure
61). Connect the negative meter test lead to the
other large wire terminal.
c. The meter must indicate no continuity.
d. Using suitable jumper leads connect the yel-
lowlgreen relay wire to the positive terminal of a
fully charged battery (Figure 61). Observe the me-
ter reading while connecting the negative battery
I. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Trace the yel-
terminal to the black wire or ground of the relay.
lowlgreen wire from the starter relay to the neutral-only
e. As the connection to the battery is made the relay
start switch. Disconnect both the yellowlgreen and brown
should have continuity. If not, replace the relay.
wires from the neutral-only start switch.
4. Disconnect all meter and battery terminal connections.
2. Set the multimeter to Rxl. Connect the positive meter Install the relay as described in Chapter Seven.
test lead to the yellowlgreen wire (Figure 59). Connect
the negative meter test lead to the brown wire.
Starter button test
3. Shift the engine into NEUTRAL and note the meter
reading. The switch should have continuity. This section provides test instructions for the starter
button used on DF9.9, DF15 and DF25 tiller control mod-
4. Shift the engine into FORWARD and REVERSE els. Switch removal is not required for testing.
while noting the meter readings. The switch should have 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Locate the
no continuity with the engine shifted into forward and re- starter button on the front or starboard side of the tiller
control bracket. Trace the starter button wires from the
back of the switch to their respective connections to the
engine wire harness.
2. Disconnect the white or whitelred wire and brown wire
connectors from the engine wire harness.
3. Set the multimeter to R x l . Connect the positive meter
test lead to the white or whitelred wire leading to the but-
ton (Figure 62). Connect the negative meter test lead to
the brown wire.
4. Observe the meter reading while depressing then re-
leasing the starter button. The button shoul have continu-
ity when depressed and no continuity when released.
Repeat the test several times to test for intermittent faults.
5. Replace the button if incorrect operation is noted. Con-
nect the white or whitelred and brown wires to their re-
spective connections to the engine wire harness. Route the
wires to avoid interference.
Ignition switch test
The ignition switch provides current for the gauges,

starting circuit, choke solenoid and engine control circuits
on EFI models. This switch also controls the ignition stop
circuit. Access to the ignition switch leads is required for
testing. Partial disassembly of the remote control or tiller
control bracket is required for most models.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Set the
multimeter to Rx 1.
2. Access the ignition switch wires as follows:
a. On DF40-DF70 tiller control models-Remove the
tive meter test lead to the gray switch lead then note the
lower cover from the tiller control as described in
meter reading. The meter should indicate no continuity.
Chapter Eleven.
5B. Note the meter reading while cycling the ignition
b. Igizitioti switch mounted in the remote con-
switch from ON to START. The meter should indicate
trol-Disassemble the remote control as described
continuity.
in Chapter Twelve until the ignition switch wires
are accessible. 6A. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Connect the positive
c. Dash mounted ignition switch-Locate the ignition meter test lead to the white switch lead. Connect the nega-
switch wires beneath the dashboard. Remove the ig- tive meter test lead to the brown switch lead then note the
nition switch from the dash if necessary for wire ac- meter reading. The meter should indicate no continuity.
cess. 6B. Turn the ignition switch ON and note the meter read-
3. Carefully disconnect all ignition switch wire connec- ing. The meter should indicate no continuity.
tors from the remote control, tiller control on instrument 6C. Turn the ignition switch to the START position. The
harness. meter should indicate continuity.
4A. Turn the ignition switch OFF (Figure 63). Connect 7A. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Connect the positive
the positive meter test lead to the black switch lead. Con- meter test lead to the white switch lead. Connect the nega-
nect the negative meter test lead to the green switch lead. tive meter test lead to the orange switch lead, then note the
The meter should indicate continuity. meter reading. The meter should indicate no continuity.
4B. Turn the ignition switch ON and note the meter read- 7B. Turn the ignition switch ON, then note the meter read-
ing. The meter should indicate no continuity. ing. The meter should indicate no continuity.
5A. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Connect the positive 7C. Turn the ignition switch ON. Note the meter reading
meter test lead to the white switch lead. Connect the nega- while repeatedly pushing, then releasing the ignition
Manual start DF9.9 and DF15 models are equipped

with a charge coil only. This system provides alternating
current (AC) to power on board lighting and is not suited
for charging a battery. It provides either 30 or 80 watts of
3
output depending on the connection points to the battery
eharging coil. A connection to the red and yellow coil wire
terminals provides a maximum output of 30 watts. A con-
nection to the redlyellow and yellow coil wire terminals
Battery charge coil provides a maximum output of 80 watts. An optional 120
watt system is available for these models. The optional
system provides a regulated direct current (DC) output
and has battery charging capability.
Electric start DF9.9 and DF15 models are equipped
with a standard non-regulated eharging system. This sys-
ten1 provides a DC output with a maximum output of 80
watts. The optional 120 watt regulated system is available
for remote control models. It provides additional output
for operating electrical accessories.
Manual start DF25 and DF30 models are not onginally
equipped with a eharging system. An optional fully regu-
lated 80 watt system is available.
Electric start DF25 and DF30 models are originally
equipped with a 180 watt fully regulated battery charging
system
DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF70 models are equipped
with a fully regulated eharging system. The system used
switch. The meter should indicate continuity with the key on DF40 and DF50 models provides a maximum output of
depressed and a no continuity reading when released. 21 6 watts. The system used on DF60 and DF70 models
8. Disconnect all test leads. Replace the ignition switch if provides a maximum output of 300 watts. This high out-
any incorrect operation is noted. put charging system provides the additional current re-
9. Carefully connect all ignition switch wire connectors quired by the electronic fuel injection system.
to their respective connections to the remote control, tiller
WARNING
control or instruments harness. Route all wires to prevent
Use extreme caution when worki~vgaround
them from contacting any moving components. batteries. Never smoke or allow sparks to
10. Connect the negative battery cable. occur in or around batteries. Batteries pro-
duce explosive hydrogen gas which can ex-
plode resulting in severe injzuy or death.
CHARGING SYSTEM Never make thefinal connection of a circuit
to the battery terminal as an arc may occur
The charging system provides electric current to charge and lead to fire or explosion.
the cranking battery and operate electric components.
Charging system components include the flywheel. bat- System Operation
tcry chargingllighting coil, rectifierlregulator, fuses, wir-
ing and the battery. Alternating current is produced in the battery charge
This section provides a brief description of the charging coil (Figure 64) as the flywheel magnets pass near the
system followed by component test instructions. charge coil. The rectifier converts this current to direct
current capable of charging the battery. If the flywheel is
removed, make sure that the magnets have not attracted
System Type any metal debris. Any metal objects attached to the fly-
wheel may contact and damage the electrical system coils.
Charging systems vary by model, type of starting sys- Models with a rectifier (Figure 65) are non-regulated.
ten1 and optional equipment. The low current output on these models generally does not
60 CHAPTER THREE
provide sufficient current to overcharge the battery. How-

ever, continued high speed operation with a small battery
or light electrical needs may result in overcharging.
Check the battery electrolyte level often in such applica-
tions (Chapter Seven).
Models with a regulator (Figure 66) rectify and regu-
late the charging current to the battery and accessory de-
mands. A regulated system reduces, but does not
eliminate the need to add water to the battery.
If overcharging is suspected, test the regulator by per-
forming the charging system output test in this chapter. In
most cases overcharging is the result of a defective regula-
tor. However, in rare cases the battery may be at fault.
Adefective charging system usually results in a weak or
discharged battery. However, in situations where numer- J-VARNZNG
Stay clear of the propeller shaft while run-
ous electrical accessories are used, the current demands
nuzg an outboard on ajli~sI-~/test
device. Re-
may exceed the capability of a correctly operating charg- move the propeller bejore running the
ing system. The installation of an auxiliary battery, or bat- engine to help avoidserious injug or death.
teries and a battery isolator (Figure 67) may be required Disconnect all sparkplug leads and the but-
to handle the accessory load and prevent the cranking bat- t e cables
~ before removing or instidling the
tery from being discharged. propeller.
On DF9.9 and DF15 models with remote control the ta-
chometer is powered by the charging system. In most CA UTION
cases, if the tachometer is inoperative, the charging sys- Never rim an outboard without first provid-
ing cooling water. Use either a test tank or
tem is defective.
flush/test device. Remove the propeller be-
On all other models the engine control module or CDI j b e running the engine on a flush/test de-
unit controls the tachometer. On these models the tachom- vice. Use a suitable test propeller to run the
eter is not affected by a defective charging system. engine in a test tank.
If on board lights fail to operate on models equipped
with only a lighting coil, test the lighting coil. A defective 1. Select the 20 or 40 VDC voltage scale on the
wire, terminal or light is indicated if the coil tests cor- multimeter. Connect the tachometer to the engine follow-
rectly. ing the manufacturer's instructions. Switch all electrical
accessories off.
CAUTION 2. With the engine switched OFF, connect the positive
Never remove or disconnect the batten' ca- meter test lead to thc positive battery terminal. Touch the
bles or any lead of the charging system
negative meter test lead to a suitable engine ground such
while the engine is running. Permanent
damage to the charging system components as a clean cylinder head bolt. Use jumper leads if neces-
will occur. Ensure any switching device in- sary. Record the voltage displayed on the meter.
stalled does not break or open the charging 3. Start the engine and run it at idle speed. Connect the
system connection to the battery during en- meter test lead as indicated in Step 2. Record the voltage
gine operation. reading at idle.
4. Raise the engine speed to approximately 2000 rpm.
Record the voltage reading at 2000 rpm.
Charging System Output Test
5. Turn OFF the engine and all accessories. Disconnect
This test requires a digital multimeter, shop tachometer the meter test leads.
and a fluswtest device or suitable test tank. Inspect all bat- 6. Compare the idle and 2000 rpm voltage readings with
tery cables, the charging system's wiring and wire con- the results in Step 2. The voltage must increase 0.3 volt or
nections prior to performing this test. Failure of charging more. Test the battery charge coil, rectifier or regulator if a
system components is usually caused by faulty connec- voltage increase of less than 0.3 volt is observed.
tions or improper battery connections. Correct all faulty 7. Repeat Steps 2-4 with all electrical accessories
wiring or connections before replacing any electrical switched on. Compare the idle and 2000 rprn voltage
component. readings with the results in Step 2. The voltage must in-
TROUBLESHOOTING AND T 61
d. On DF25 and DF30 models disconnect the red and

yellow wires from the rectifierlregulator (Figure
66) or optional lighting harness.
e. On DF40 and DF50 models disconnect the three
white coil wires from the three yellow wires leading
to the regulator.
f. On DF60 and DF70 models disconnect three yellow
coil wires from the three yellow wires leading to the
regulator.
3. Sct the multimeter to R x 1. Inspect the battery charge
coil wire terminals for dirty or damaged terminals. Clean
and repair them as required.
4. Connect the meter test leads to the battery charge coil
wires listed in Table 14. Record the meter readings.
5. Compare the meter readings with the specifications in
Table 14. Replace the battery charge coil (Chapter Seven)
crease 0.3 volts or more. Test the battery charge coil. rec- if the measurements exceed the specification.
tifier or regulator if a voltage increase of less than 0.3 volt 6. Carefully route and reconnect the battery charge coil
is observed. If these items test good, the charging system wires. Route the wires to prevent interference and care-
is not capable of meeting the accessory load. A 0.3 volt or fully wrap the spiral wrap around them.
more increase indicates that the accessory load is within
7. Reconnect the spark plug leads and negative battery
the charging system capacity.
cable.
Battery Charge Coil Test

Rectifier Test
This test requires a digital multimeter as all test specifi-
cations are less than 1 ohm. Battery charge coil appear- A rectifier (Figure 65) is used on electric start DF9.9
ance and wire colors vary by model. Refer to the wire and DF 15 models with the standard charging system. This
diagrams at the end of the manual to identify the wire col- component niounts to the port side of the engine directly
ors. Trace the indicated wires to the wires leading beneath above the starter relay.
the flywheel. Battery charge coil removal is not required 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect and
for testing. Remove the coil only when necessary to ac- ground the spark plug leads.
cess the coil wire connectors. Battery charge coil resis- 2. Trace the yellow and red battery charging coil wires to
tance specifications are in Table 14. the rectifier. Carefully unwrap the spiral wrap from the
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect and coil and rectifier wires.
ground the spark plug leads. Carefully unwrap the spiral 3. Note the wire routing and connection points then care-
wrap from the charge coil wires. fully disconnect the yellow and red coil wires from the
2. Connection points for the battery charge coil wires rectifier wires. Disconnect the black rectifier wire from
vary by model and charging system components. the starter relay mount.
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 manual start models discon- 4. Set the multimeter to R x 1. Connect the meter test
nect the redlyellow and red or red/yellow and yel- leads to the rectifier wires listed in Table 15. Record the
low coil wires from the rectifierlregulator or meter readings for each wire connection point.
lighting harness. 5. Compare the meter readings with the specifications in
b. On DF9.9 and DF 15 electric start models equipped Table 15. Replace the rectifier as described in Chapter
with a rectifier disconnect the red and yellow coil Seven if incorrect test results are noted.
wires from the rectifier. 6. Carefully route and reconnect the battery charge coil
c. On DF9.9 and DF15 electric and manual start mod- wires. Route all wires to prevent interference. Wrap the
els equipped with a regulator disconnect the red and spiral wrap around the wires.
yellow along with the redlyellow and yellow wires 7. Reconnect the spark plug leads and negative battery
from the regulator. cable.
@ IGNITION SYSTE
DF9.9 AND DF15 MODELS
nII Pulser coil A 0

Flywlieel
Stop swil
Ignition charge
coil 1
CDI Unit ' I No. 2

spark plug ,I
I I
/ No. 1
Ignition coil spark plug
Regulator Test Removal of the regulator is not required provided there

is adequate access to the wire terminals. Regulator re-
The appearance and mounting location of the regulator moval and installation instructions are in Chapter Seven.
varies by model. Regulator test specifications are in Table 15.
On DF9.9 and DF15 models it is mounted to the port 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect and
side of the power head and below the flywheel. On elec- ground the spark plug leads.
tric start models the rectifierlregulator is mounted directly 2. On DF60 and DF70 models remove the electrical coni-
above the starter relay. ponent cover from the starboard side of the power head.
On DF25 and DF30 models it is mounted to the rear 3. Locate the wire terminals connecting the regulator to
port side of the power head and directly below the ignition the battery charge coils, engine ground and wire harness.
coils. Unwrap the spiral wrap from the wires. Note the wire
On DF40 and DF50 models it is mounted to the rear routing and connection points. Then carefully disconnect
starboard side of the power head directly above the low the regulator wires.
pressure fuel filter. 4. Ensure all wire terminals arc clean prior to testing.
On DF60 and DF70 models it is mounted to the star- 5. Select the ohms function on the multimeter. Pay partic-
board side of the power head beneath the electrical com- ular attention to the test lead polarity (Table 15) and
ponent cover. Remove the cover to access the regulator connect the test leads to the wire terminals. Record the
wire terminals. meter readings for each test lead connection point.
Refcr to the wire diagrams located at the end of the 6. Compare the meter readings with the specifications in
manual to identify the regulator wire colors. Trace the Table 15. Replace the regulator if incorrect readings are
wires from the battery charge coil to the regulator. noted.
to the wiring diagrams at the end of the book and confirm

that the correct wire color/connections are used when per-
forming tests.
System Operation
DF9.9 and DF15 Models
The ignition system (Figure 68) is a solid state

condensor discharge system (CDI). The CDI unit deter-
mines ignition timing based on engine speed, which make
it very efficient. The timing (static and dynamic) is not ad-
justable. The system is very reliable and maintenance is
limited to spark plug cleaning and replacement. In most
cases problems are related to poor wire connections or a
defective stop switch.
This system generates ignition voltage with an ignition
charge coil. The CDI unit converts the alternating charge
coil current to direct current and stores it in a capacitor.
The pulses coil (Figure 69) signals the CDI unit when the
cylinder is at TDC. The CDI unit determines the engine
speed via this signal and releases the stored current in the
capacitor to the primary circuit of the ignition coil (Figure
70). The current is increased in the secondary coil circuit
and fires both spark plugs simultaneously, even though
only one cylinder is on the compression stroke.
The stop switch or ignition switch turns off the ignition
system by sending a ground signal to the CDI unit.
7. Clean the wire harness terminals. Carefully route the DF25 and DF30 Models
wires and reconnect them. Route the wires so they will not
contact any moving components. Carefully wrap the spi- The ignition system (Figure 71) is a solid state
ral wrap around the wires. condensor discharge system (CDI). The CDI unit deter-
8. On DF60 and DF70 models install the electrical com- mines ignition timing based on engine speed, which
ponent cover to the starboard side of the power head. makes it very efficient. The timing (static and dynamic) is
9. Reconnect the spark plug leads and the negative bat- not adjustable. The system is very reliable and mainte-
nance is limited to spark plug cleaning and replacement.
tery cable.
In most cases, problems are related to poor wire connec-
tions or a defective stop switch.
IGNITION SYSTEM This system generates ignition voltage with an ignition
charge coil. The CDI unit converts the alternating charge
This section provides a description of the various igni- coil current to direct current and stores it in a capacitor.
tion systems and test instructions for the ignition system The CDI unit determines engine speed and ignition timing
components. based on when the raised flywheel boss passes the two
Refer to the Troubleshooting Preparation section at the crankshaft position sensors (Figure 72). The CDI unit
beginning of this chapter and Table 3 at the end of the then determines the optimum ignition timing and releases
chapter before performing any test. Avoid unnecessary the stored capacitor current to the primary circuit of the
parts replacement and wasted effort by using systematic ignition coils (Figure 73). The current is increased in the
and logical troubleshooting procedures. Make sure that secondary coil circuit to fire the spark plugs.
the possibility of a poor connection or damaged wiring is The stop switch or ignition switch turns off the ignition
eliminated before replacing an ignition component. Refer system by sending a ground signal to the CDI unit.
64 CHAPTER THREE
IGNITION SYSTEM DIAGRAM

1 1 Flywheel
'I
Stop switch
CDI
TROUBLESHOOTING AN 65
Crankshaft position
System relay sensor No. 3 Flywheel
/ /
Ignition
switch
\
Positive
battery Spark
terminal
Plug
No. 1
Spark
plug
No. 2
Spark
Plug
No.2
Ignition coil
/
No. 3
DF40 and DF50 Models the sensors. The ECM determines the optimum ignition
timing by using these signals and then interrupting the
The ignition system (Figure 74) is a fully transistorized current to the primary coil winding. This induces a high
direct ignition direct ignition system. The ECM deter- voltage in the secondary coil circuit to fire the spark plugs.
mines ignition timing based on engine speed, which When the ignition switch is turned off, the system relay
makes it very efficient. The timing (static and dynamic) is is de-energized and no current is available to the ignition
not adjustable. The system is very reliable and mainte- coil (Figure 75) or ECM.
nance is limited to spark plug cleaning and replacement.
In most cases, problems are related to poor wire connec-
tions or a defective stop circuit. DF60 and DF70 Models
System current is provided by the battery and is di-
rected to the ECM via the system relay and ignition The ignition system (Figure 76) is a fully transistorized
switch. A crankshaft position sensor (Figure 72) for each system. The ECM unit determines ignition timing based
cylinder signals the ECM as to engine speed and piston on engine speed, which makes it very efficient. The tim-
position based on when the raised flywheel boss passes ing (static and dynamic) is not adjustable. The system is
66 CHAPTER THREE
very reliable and maintenance is limited to spark plug

cleaning and replacement. In most cases, problems are re-
lated to poor wire connections or a defective stop circuit.
System current is provided by the battery and is directed
to the ECM via the system relay and ignition switch. Two
crankshaft position sensors (Figure 72) and a camshaft po-
sition sensor provide signals to the ECM to determine en-
gine speed and piston position based on when the raised
boss passes the sensors. The ECM determines the optimum
ignition timing by using these signals and then interrupting
the current to the primary coil winding. This induces a high
voltage in the secondary coil circuit to fire the spark plugs.
This system has two ignition coils, one for cylinders 1
and 4, and one for cylinders 2 and 3. When an individual
coil fires, it fires both spark plugs simultaneously, even
though only one cylinder is at TDC.
6. Observe the meter reading while activating the lan-
When the ignition switch is turned off, the system relay is
yard switch. Continuity should be present with the lan-
de-energized and no current is available to the ignition coil
yard switch activated.
or ECM.
7. Check all wire connections then test the stop and lan-
yard switch if an incorrect test result is noted. Test all
Stop Circuit Test other ignition system components if no spark is present
yet the stop circuit test correctly.
This section provides test instructions for the stop switch, 8. Connect the spark plug and other disconnected leads.
ignition switch, lanyard switch and stop circuit wiring. Route all wires to avoid interference. Connect the nega-
A malfunction in the stop circuit usually results in a no tive battery cable if so equipped.
start condition. Refer to Spark Test in this chapter to deter-
mine if spark is present before testing the stop circuit. If the
system produces a strong spark, it is unlikely that the stop DF9.9, DF15 and DF25 remote control models
circuit is defective. However, testing may discover that (without trim)
there is an intermittent fault. Perform the tests with the en-
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect
gine off.
and ground the spark plug leads.
2. Disconnect the remote control wire harness from the
DF9.9, DF15 and DF25 tiller control models engine wire harness.
3. Set the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Connect the pos-
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable if so equipped. itive meter test lead to the bluelred wire terminal of the
Disconnect and ground the spark plugs wires. remote control harness (Figure 78). Connect the nega-
2. Disconnect both stop switch wires from the engine or tive meter test lead to the black wire terminal of the har-
CDI unit wire harness. ness. Place the ignition switch in the OFF position.
3. Set the multimeter to the Rx1 scale. Connect the positive 4. Observe the meter reading. Continuity should be
meter test lead to the green or bluelred wire leading the stop noted.
switch (Figure 77). Connect the negative meter test lead to 5. Observe the meter reading while placing the ignition
the black wire leading to the stop switch. switch in the ON position. No continuity should be pres-
ent.
NOTE
6. Observe the meter reading while placing the ignition
A ween wire is used on DF9.9 and DF15
models with serial numbersprior to 652501. switch in the START position. No continuity should be
present. Return the switch to the ON position.
4. Observe the meter reading without activating the stop or 7. Observe the meter reading while activating the lan-
lanyard switch. No continuity should be noted. yard switch. Continuity should be present with the lan-
5. Observe the meter reading while depressing the stop yard switch activated.
switch. Continuity should now be present. Release the stop 8. Check all wire connections then test the ignition and
switch. lanyard switch if an incorrect test result is noted. Test all
IGNITION SYSTEM DIAGRA

DF60 AN DF70 MODELS
System Crankshaft position Crankshaft position

relay sensor No. 1 Flywheel sensor No. 2
\
Camshaft
position
sensor
Positive
battery
terminal
\
Camshaft
'Spark
Plug
No. 1
'Spark
Plug
No. 4
other ignition system components if no spark is present

9. Connect the remote control wire harness to the engine
wire harness. Route all wires and hoses carefully to pre-
vent interference. Connect the spark plug leads and the
negative battery cable.
DF25 (with trim) and

DF40-DF70 models
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect and

ground the spark plug leads.
2. Disconnect the remote or tiller control wire harness
connector from the engine wire harness.
3. Set the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Connect the posi-
tive meter test lead to the green wire terminal of the re-
68 CHAPTER THREE
mote or tiller control harness (Figure 78). Connect the

negative meter test lead to the black wire terminal of the
harness. Place the ignition switch in the OFF position. @ REMOTE CONTROL
HARNESS CONNECTOR
NOTE STOP CIRCUIT TEST
The green wire connects to a blue/red en-
gine harness wire. Ohmmeter
4. Observe the meter reading. Continuity should be

noted.
switch in the ON position. No continuity should be pres-
ent.
switch in the START position. No continuity should be
present. Return the switch to the ON position.
7. Observe the meter reading while activating the lanyard
switch. Continuity should be present with the lanyard
switch activated.
8. Check all wire connections then test the ignition and
lanyard switch if an incorrect test result is noted. Test all
or
other ignition system components if no spark is present Green wire terminal
9. Connect the remote control wire harness to the engine
wire harness, then install the spark plug leads. Route all
wires and hoses carefully to prevent interference. Connect
the negative battery cable.
Stop Switch Test

(DF9.9, DF15 and DF15 tiller control models)
This stop switch is mounted on the side of the tiller han-

dle (Figure 79).
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped).
Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads.
2. Trace the green or blue/rcd and the black stop switch
wires to the engine or CDI unit wire harness connections.
3. Set the multimcter to the R x 1 scale. Connect the posi-
tive meter test lead to the green or blue/red wire leading Ignition Switch Test
the stop switch (Figure 77). Connect the negative meter
test lead to the black wire leading to the stop switch. Refer to Starting System in this chapter for ignition
4. Observe the meter reading without activating the stop switch test instructions.
switch. No continuity should be noted.
5 . Observe the meter reading while depressing the stop Lanyard Switch Test
switch. Continuity should now be present. Release the
stop switch. A lanyard switch is mounted to the engine on all tiller
6. Replace the stop switch if an incorrect test result is control models. On remote control models the lanyard
noted. Securely tighten the stop switch inner retaining nut. switch is integrated into the remote control or mounted to
7. Connect all disconnected leads. Route all wires and the boat structure. Access to the lanyard switch wires is
hoses carefully to prevent interference. Connect the nega- required for proper testing. Remove and partially disas-
tive battery cable (if so equipped). semble the remote control on models with a control
SHOOTING AN 69
2. Disconnect the lanyard switch wires from the tiller or

remote control harness. Note the wire routing and connec-
tion points.
3. Set the multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Connect the posi-
tive meter test lead to the green or bluelred lanyard switch
wire (Figure 80). Connect the negative meter test lead to
the black lanyard switch wire.
4. Ensure the lanyard switch cord connector is properly
attached and the ignition switch is in the run position.
5. Observe the meter reading. No continuity should be
noted.
6. Observe the meter reading while pulling the lanyard
switch connector from the lanyard switch (Figure 80).
Continuity should be noted with the connector detached
from the lanyard switch.
7. Inspect the lanyard switch wires and connectors for
dirty, corroded, worn or damaged areas and repair as re-
quired. Replace the lanyard switch if an incorrect test re-
sult is noted yet no defects are noted with the wiring.
Repeat Steps 1-7 after repair to ensure proper operation.
8. Ensure all wires are routed to prevent interference.
Connect the spark plug leads and the negative battery ca-
ble (if so equipped).
System Relay Test

Relay (DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF70 models)
The system relay supplies electrical current to the igni-

tion coils and fuel injection system. A fault with the sys-
tem relay generally prevents the engine from starting.
Intermittent faults usually cause engine stalling after run-
ning the engine for a few minutes. Typically the engine
\ will not restart unless the ignition is switched off long
Multimeter
enough to allow the relay to cool.
The system relay is mounted on the upper starboard
side of the power head near the engine control module.
Removal of the electrical component cover is required to
access the relay.
mounted switch. Refer to Chapter Seven for switch re- A multimeter, fully charged battery and jumper leads
moval and installation instructions for tiller control mod- are required for this test.
els. Refer to Chapter Twelve for models with a remote 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect and
control mounted switch. Disassemble the remote control ground the spark plug leads.
enough to access the lanyard switch leads. 2. Carefully pull the relay away from the power head.
Disconnect the relay from the engine wire harness and
NOTE place it on a clean work surface with the connector re-
On some models the lanyardswitch i s incor- tainer facing up as indicated in (Figure 81).
porutecl into the stop switch. This does not
3. Set the multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Connect the posi-
affect the testing o f these componeiits.
tive meter test lead to the indicated relay terminal (A, Fig-
ure 81). Connect the negative meter test lead to the
1 Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped) indicated relay terminal (B). Observe the meter reading.
Disconnect and ground the spark plug leads. No continuity should be noted.
, Page: 77 Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke - 1997-2000 http://www.ReadManuals.Com
70 CHAPTER THREE
4. Using an appropriate jumper lead, connect the indi-

cated relay terminal (C, Figure 81) to the positive termi-
nal of a fully charged 12 volt battery. Connect another
jumper lead to the negative terminal of the battery.
5. Observe the meter reading while touching the jumper
lead to the indicated relay terminal (D, Figure 81). Conti-
nuity should be noted with all leads connected as indi-
cated (Figure 81).Test the wire harness capacitor as
described in this section if the EFI components fail to
switch on yet the relay test correctly.
6. Replace the system relay if an incorrect test result is
noted. Clean the terminals then carefully plug the relay to
the engine wire harness connector. Secure the relay to the
mounting location behind the electrical components
cover. Route all wires to prevent interference. Install the a. Connect the test leads of a meter capable of testing
electrical component cover. capacitors as noted in Step 4.
7. Connect the spark plug leads and the negative battery b. Note the meter reading. The capacitance should be
cable. approximately 470 microfarad.
c. Replace the engine wire harness if a significant
variation in capacitance is noted. In almost all cases
Wire Harness Capacitor Test the capacitor fails Step 5 if incorrect capacitance is
(DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF60 Models) indicated.
7. Install the cover onto the diagnostic connector. Install
The wire harness capacitor reduces electrical interfer-
the system relay. Connect the spark plug leads and the
ence From the system relay. A fault with this component
negative battery cable.
generally prevents the relay from switching on. Perform a
spark test as described in this chapter. The system relay
and capacitor are operating correctly if spark is present on Ignition Charge Coil Test
any of the spark plug leads. The n~anufacturedoes not (DF9.9, DF25 and DF30 Models)
provided test instructions for the capacitor. An internally
shorted capacitor allows current from the ignition circuit A fault with the ignition charge coil generally prevents
to flow to ground instead of activating the system relay. A the engine from starting. A partial short of the coil wind-
shorted capacitor is easily detected with a multimeter. A ing can cause hard starting andlor an ignition misfire. Re-
meter with capacitor testing capability is required to test moval of the ignition charge coil is not required for
the capacitance. Test the relay as follows: testing. Resistance readings for this component vary with
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove and temperature. To ensure accurate results, test the coil at 20Â
ground the spark plug leads. C (68' F).
2. Disconnect the remote control or tiller control harness 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped).
from the engine wire harness. Remove the system relay Remove and ground the spark plug leads.
from the engine wire harness as described in this chapter 2. Trace the ignition charge coil wires from beneath the
(see System Relay Test). flywheel to the connections at the engine wire harness or
3. Locate the diagnostic connector (Figure 82) at the CDI unit on DF25 and DF30 models. Carel'ully discon-
lower starboard side of the power head. Remove the cover nect the ignition charge coil wires.
from the connector. 3. Connect the meter test leads to the ignition charge coil
4. Set the multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Connect the posi- wire terminals (Figure 83) as indicated in Table 6.
tive meter test lead to the gray wire terminal within the 4. Compare the meter readings with the specification
connector. Connect the negative meter test lead to an en- provided in Table 6. Replace the ignition charge coil as
gine ground. described in Chapter Seven if an incorrect readingis
5. Observe the meter readings. No continuity should be noted.
noted. Replace the engine wire harness if continuity is 5. Connect the ignition charge coil wire connectors to the
noted. engine wire harness or CDI unit. Route the wires to avoid
6. Test the capacitance of the capacitor as follows: interference.
SHOOTING AN TING 71
4. Connect tlie meter test leads to the pulser coil wire ter-
minals (Figure 83) indicated in Table 7.
5. Compare the meter readings with the specification
provided in Table 7. Replace the pulser coil as described
in Chapter Seven if an incorrect reading is noted.
6. Connect the pulser coil wire connectors to the engine
wire harness. Route the wires to avoid interference.
7. Connect the spark plug leads and the negative battery
cable (if so equipped).
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Test
The crankshaft position sensor (Figure 84) is mounted

to the top of the power head and next to the flywheel. Two
crankshaft position sensors are used on DF25, DF30,
DF60 models and DF70. Three crankshaft position sen-
sors are used on DF40 and DF50 models.
If there is a problem with the crankshaft position sensor
the symptoms will vary depending on the model.
On DF25 and DF30 models a fault with the No. 1 sensor
results in no spark on cylinder No. 1 only. A fault with the
No. 2 sensor results in no spark on cylinder No. 3. Spark
will occur on cylinder No. 1 below 1000 rpm and cylin-
ders No. 1 and 2 if the engine speed is above 1000 rpm.
The ignition timing is fixed at 5O BTDC if a fault occurs
with either sensor.
On DF40 and DF50 models a fault with sensor No. 1 , 2
or 3 results in no spark at the corresponding cylinder. A
fault with more than one sensor results in no spark to all
three cylinders.
On DF60 and DF70 models a fault with one sensor
6. Connect the spark plug leads and the negative battery causes the engine control module (ECM) to rely on the
cable (if so equipped). signal from the other sensor. Normal operation continues.
A fault with both sensors results in no spark to all cylin-
ders.
Pulser Coil Test Removal of the crankshaft position sensor is not re-
(DF9.9 and DF15 Models) quired for testing. Resistance readings for this component
vary with temperature. To ensure accurate results, test the
A fault with the pulses coil generally prevents the engine coil at 20' C (68' F).
from starting. A partial short of the pulser coil winding can 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped).
cause hard starting and/or an ignition misfire. Removal of Remove and ground the spark plug leads.
the pulser coil is not required for testing. Resistance read- 2. Trace the crankshaft position wires from the sensors to
ings for this component vary with temperature. To ensure the connection at the engine wire harness, CDI unit or
accurate results, test tlie coil at 20' C (68O F). ECM. Carefully disconnect the sensor wire connector.
1 . Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped). 3. Set the multimeter to the RxlOO scale.
Remove and ground the spark plug leads. 4. Connect the meter test leads to the sensor wire tesmi-
2. Trace the pulser coil wires from beneath the flywheel nals indicated in Table 8. Record the meter reading.
to the connections at the engine wire harness. Carefully 5. Compare the meter readings with the specification
disconnect the pulser coil wire connectors from the engine provided in Table 8. Replace the crankshaft position sen-
wire harness. sors as described in Chapter Seven if an incorrect reading
3. Set the multimeter to the R x 100. is noted.
72 CHAPTER THRE
6. Connect the sensor wire harness to the engine wire har-

ness, CDI unit or ECM. Route the wires to avoid interfer-
ence.
7. Connect the spark plug leads and the negative battery
cable.
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Test

(DF40, DF60 and DF70 Models)
A fault with the camshaft position sensor causes the en-

sine
u
control module (ECM) to base fuel and ignition tim-
ing on the crankshaft position sensors. If this occurs the
engine will run normally but the ECM will display EFI
failure code No. 24.
Sensor mounting location varies.
On DF40 and DF50 models the sensor is mounted at the
upper rear of the valve cover near the No. 1 coil.
On DF60 and DF70 models the sensor is mounted on
top of the cylinder head next to the camshaft pulley. The
sensor wires pass under the starboard side of the timing
belt. is common with this type of failure. Resistance test may
Removal of the camshaft position sensor is not required not detect this type of internal short. Replace the coil if a
for testing. Resistance readings for this component vary clicking noise is detected.
with temperature. To ensure accurate results, test the coil This section provides resistance test instructions for the
at 20' C (68' F). primary and secondary winding. Test both coil windings if
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove and the coil is suspect. Resistance testing requires an accurate
ground the spark plug leads. multimeter. Due to the low resistance readings, use a digi-
2. Trace the camshaft position sensor wires from the sen- tal multimeter if testing the primary coil winding. Use an
sor to the four pin connector to the ECM. Carefully dis- analog or digital meter if testing the secondary winding.
connect the sensor harness from the ECM. Removal of the ignition coil is not required for testing
3. Set the multimeter to the Rxl00 scale. providing the coil wire connectors are accessible. Ignition
4. Connect the meter test leads to the sensor wire termi- coil removal and installation instructions are provided in
nals indicated in Table 9. Record the meter reading. Chapter Seven.
5. Compare the meter readings with the specification The number of coils and mounting locations vary by
provided in Table 9. Replace the camshaft position sensor model.
as described in Chapter Seven if an incorrect reading is DF9.9 and DF15 models are equipped with a single coil
noted. that is mounted to the port side of the cylinder head.
6. Connect the sensor wire harness to the engine control DF 25 and DF30 models are equipped with three coils.
module. Route the wires to avoid interference. DF 40 and DF50 models are equipped with three coils
7. Connect the spark plug leads and the negative battery integrated into the spark plug cap. This design eliminates
cable. the spark plug lead.
DF60 and DF70 models are equipped with two coils.
Each coil fires two cylinders.
Ignition Coil Test
A fault with the ignition coil generally causes no spark Primary coil winding test
at the affected cylinder. A partial short within the coil can
cause an ignition misfire. Generally this type of fault oc- 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped).
curs at higher engine speeds. A common cause of ignition Note the routing and connection points then disconncct
coil failure is due to an internal short. Internal shorts cause the ignition coil wires.
arcing within the coil housing that prevents a strong blue 2. Set the meter to the Rxl scale.
spark at the plug. A clicking noise emanating from the coil 3. Connect the meter test leads to the coil as indicated.
LESHOOTING AND TESTING 73
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models connect the meter test

leads as indicated in Figure 85.
b. On DF25 and DF30 models connect the meter test
leads as indicated in Figure 86.
c. On DF40 and DF50 models touch the positive meter
test lead to the ignition coil terminal that connects to
the orange, blue or green engine harness wires.
Touch the negative meter test lead to the coil tcnni-
nal that connects to the gray engine harness wircs.
Make sure the leads touch the ignition coil terminals
and not the wire harness terminals.
d. On DF60 and DF70 models touch the positive meter
test lead to coil harness terminal that connects to the
orange or blue engine harness wires. Touch the rieg-
ative meter test lead to the coil harness terminal that
connects to the gray engine harness wire.
4. Compare the results with the specifications in Table
10. Replace the ignition coil(s) as described in Chapter
Seven if an incorrect reading is noted.
5. Connect the engine wire harness to the ignition coil
wires or terminals. Route the wires to avoid interference.
6. Connect the negative battery cable (if so equipped).
-
Digtal Meter coil winding test
Secof~i/iwy
Accurate testing requires the removal of the spark plug

cap on DF9.9, DF 15 and DF25 models.
Note the routing and connection points then disconnect all
ignition coil wires.
2. Set the meter to the R x 10K scale when testing DF60
Y WINDING T
and DF70 models. Use the R x 1K scale on all other mod-
AND DFI 5 MODEL
els.
3. On DF9.9, DF15 and DF25 models carefully unthread
the spark plug cap from the spark plug lead.
No. 1 spark plug lead
4. Connect the meter test leads to the coil as indicated:
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models connect the positive
meter test lead to the wire within the No. 1 spark
plug lcad (Figure 87). Connect the negative meter
test lead to the wire within the No. 2 spark plug
lead.
b. On DF25 and DF30 models connect the positive
meter test lead to the wire within the spark plug lead
(Figure 88). Connect the negative meter test lcad to
the black coil wire terminal.
c. On DF40 and DF50 models touch the positive meter
test lead to the ignition coil terminal that connects to
the gray engine harness wire. Touch the negative
meter test lead to the coil terminal that connects to
Multimeter the spark plug.
d. On DF60 and DF70 models connect the positive
meter test lead to the contact within the spark plug
cap (Figure 89). Connect the negative meter test
lead to the contact within the other spark plug cap.
5. Compare the results with the specification in Table 11.
Replace the ignition coil(s) as described in Chapter Seven
if an incorrect reading is noted.
6. On DF9.9, DF15 and DF25 models fully thread the
spark plug cap onto the end of the spark plug lead.
7. Connect the engine wire harness to the ignition coil
wires or terminals. Route the wires to avoid interference.
Spark Plug Cap Test
To reduce electrical interference a resistor is integrated

into the spark plug cap on DF9.9-DF30 models. A fault
with the resistor can result in no spark or an intermittent
misfire at any engine speed.
2. Set the meter to the R x 10K scale when testing the cap
on DF9.9 and DF15 models. Use the R xlK scale on DF25
and DF30 models.
3. Carefully unthread the spark plug cap from the spark
plug lead. Connect the positive meter test lead to spark
plug terminal within the cap (Figure 90). Connect the
negative meter test lead to the screw connector at the
spark plug lead end of the cap.
4. Compare the meter reading with the specification pro-
vided in Table 12. Replace the spark plug cap if an incor-
rect reading is noted.
5. Fully thread the spark plug cap onto the end of the
spark plug lead. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect
the negative battery cable.
Cylinder Temperature Sensor Test

Multimeter
DF25 and DF30 models incorporate a cylinder ternper-
ature sensor that provides input to the CDI unit. This input
allows the CDI unit to provide optimum ignition timing
for the given engine temperature. This sensor also con-
trols the overheat warning system. Refer to Warning Sys-
tern in this chapter for test instructions.
CDI Unit or Engine Control Module (ECM) Test
A CDI unit (Figure 91) is used on DF9.9, DF 15, DF25

and DF30 models. It controls the operation of the ignition
system. An ECM is used on DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF70
models. It control the operation of the ignition and elec-
tronic fuel injection systems. A faulty CDI unit or ECM
can cause a failure to start, irregular idle, ignition misfire
or incorrect speed limiting. A faulty ECM can cause a
SPARK PLUG GAP

RESISTANCE TEST
Flywheel
A faulty flywheel can cause a constant or intermittent

ignition misfire. In some rare instances a faulty flywheel
causes erratic ignition timing. This occurs due to a
buildup of grease or other contaminant on the flywheel
magnets. A cracked or damaged flywheel magnet (Figure
92) can cause similar symptoms.
Remove and inspect the flywheel as described in Chap-
ter Eight if an ignition misfire occurs and other causes are
ruled out. Weak flywheel magnets can cause inadequate
current to operate the ignition system components. Touch
the tip of a screwdriver to the inner and outer flywheel
magnets. Always compare inner flywheel magnets with
other inner magnets. Compare outer magnets to other
outer magnets. Replace the flywheel if a weak flywheel
magnet is noted.
Clean debris or contaminants from the flywheel using a
mild solvent. The use of strong solvents can damage the
adhesive that bonds the magnets to the flywheel. Make
malfunction of the electronic fuel injection system as sure all metallic debris is removed.
well. Refer to Electronic Fuel Injection in this chapter if
an ECM fault is suspected.
WARNING SYSTEM
Testing of the CDI or ECM involves a process of elimi-
nation. Test all other components of the ignition system as CA UTION
described in this chapter. Replace the CDI unit or ECM if Avoid operating the engine if the warning
an ignition misfire is verified and faulty wirinD,
o connec- system activates. Continued operation can
tors or ignition system components are ruled out. Faulty lead to serious and expensive engine dam-
wires or connectors cause far more ignition problems than qe.
a fault with the CD1 or ECM.
The warning systcm provides a means to alert the opes-
In some instances a faulty CDI unit or ECM causes in- ator in the event of overheating, low oil pressure, exccs-
correct operation ofthe warning system. Refer to Wa1.11ing sive engine speed or a fault with the fuel injection system
System in this chapter for additional information. Replace (if so equipped). Circuits within the CDI unit or ECM
the CDI unit or ECM if all warning system components switch on warning lights or a buzzer if a fault is detected.
test correctly yet incorrect warning system operation per- Additional circuits then initiate an ignition misfire or re-
sist. duced timing to limit engine speed. This section provides
76 CHAPTER THREE
a brief description of the systems followed by component

test instructions.
System Operation
Warning system components and mode of operation

varies by model. Use the wire diagrams at the back of the
manual to assist with component and wire color identifi-
cation. Refer to the following sections for the various
models.
DF9.9 and DF15 models
These models are equipped with a water pump indicator

stream (Figure 93) and an oil pressure warning system.
Make sure that a strong stream of water exits the fitting
at the lower rear area of the motor cover while operating
the engine. Thoroughly inspect the cooling system if the
water stream is weak or absent. Check the stream more
frequently if the engine is operated in sand or debris-laden
water.
The oil pressure warning system consists of the oil pres-
sure switch (Figure 94), warning light and CDI unit. The
oil pressure light (Figure 95) should come on for approxi-
mately five seconds after the engine is started to verify
that the system is operational and then go out if sufficient
oil pressure is detected.
The oil pressure switch closes and sends a ground sig-
nal to the CDI unit if the pressure is less than 0.3 kg/cm2
(4.3 psi). The CDI unit then illuminates the oil pressure
light.
Remote control models are equipped with a warning
buzzer in addition to the oil pressure light. The oil pres-
sure switch controls the operation of the warning buzzer
by providing a ground circuit. When the ignition switch is
turned on, battery voltage is applied to the buzzer and the
circuit is completed through the closed oil pressure
switch. The buzzer should sound to verify that the system
is operational. When the engine is started and if oil pres-
sure is sufficient to open the switch, the circuit is open and
the buzzer ceases.
If the CDI unit detects low oil pressure, it reduces the described in Chapter Four. Check the oil pressure as de-
ignition timing to limit engine speed to 2000 rpni and ini- scribed in this chapter if the oil level is correct and the
tiates an ignition misfire. Normal operation resumes after warning continues. Test all components of the warning
switching the engine off and correcting the cause of the oil system if the oil pressure is correct and the warning per-
pressure warning. The CDI unit also initiates an ignition sists.
misfire if the engine speed exceeds 6500 rpm to prevent
potential power head damage. Normal operation resumes DF25 and DF30 models
when the engine speed falls below 6500 rpni.
If the oil pressure warning light and/or buzzer comes These models are equipped with a low oil pressure, en-
on, stop the engine immediately and check the oil level as gine overheat and overspeed warning system. Remote
TROU HOOTING AN 77
In addition to operating the warning light if low oil

pressure or engine overheating is detected, the CDI unit
limits engine speed by retarding the ignition timing or ini-
tiating an ignition misfire. Normal ignition operation oc-
curs at engine speeds below 3000 rpm. If the speed is not
reduced to 3000 rpm while a warning is detected, the CDI
unit limits engine speed to 2000 rpm.
The overspeed warning system activates the warning
system if the engine speed exceeds the rev-limiter speed
(Table 27). Using an ignition misfire the CDI unit limits
the engine speed to 3000 rpin if excessive engine speed
continues. To prevent speed limiting, reduce the engine
speed to the recommended range (Table 27) within 10
seconds of the warning activation.
Should speed limiting occur, deactivate it by reducing
the engine speed to 2500 rpin or less for one second.
If the warning system is activated by low oil pressure,
normal operation resumes after switching the engine off
and correcting the cause of low oil pressure. If the wam-
ing is due to overheating, the engine must cool to less than
control models use a warning buzzer in addition to the 70' C (1 85' F) with an engine speed less than 1500 rpm.
warning light. The buzzer is located within the remote If the warning system is activated, stop the engine im-
control or behind the dash. mediately and check the oil level as described in Chapter
The oil pressure warning system consists of the oil pres- Four. Start the engine and check the water indicator
sure switch, warning light (Figure 95) and CDI unit. The stream (Figure 93) at the back of the lower en,;'"me cover.
warning light (and buzzer if equipped) should come on for Thoroughly inspect the cooling system if the stream is
a few seconds after tlie engine is started to verify that the weak or absent. Check tlie oil pressure as described in this
system is operational and then go out when sufficient oil chapter if the oil level is correct and a strong water stream
pressure is detected. is present. Test all components of the warning system if
The oil pressure switch closes and sends a ground sig- the oil pressure is correct and the cooling system is func-
nal to tlie CDI unit if the pressure is less than 0.5 kg/cm2 tioning.
(7.1 psi.). The CDI unit then illuminates tlie oil pressure
light and on remote control models the buzzer sounds.
DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF70 models
The warning buzzer is activated by providing a ground
circuit. When the ignition switcli is turned on, battery These models are equipped with a low oil pressure, en-
voltage is applied to the buzzer and the circuit is com- gine overheat, low battery voltage and overspeed warning
pleted through the closed oil pressure switch. The buzzer system. When a warning is detected by the oil pressure
should sound to verify that the system is operational. switch, engine temperature sensor or exhaust manifold
When the engine is started and if oil pressure is sufficient temperature sensor, the engine control module (ECM) il-
to open the switch, tlie circuit is open and the buzzer luminates the combination tachometerlwarning monitor
ceases. (Figure 96) and sounds the warning buzzer.
The overheat warning system consists of the engine The warning buzzer is located within the remote con-
temperature sensor, warning light and CD1 unit. The trol, tiller control housing or behind the dash. The warning
warning light (and buzzer if equipped) should come on if buzzer is activated by the ECM providing a ground cir-
the engine temperature reaches or exceeds 98-110' C cuit. When the ignition switch is turned on. battery volt-
(208-230' F). age is applied to the buzzer and if the circuit is completed
The CDI unit can also initiate an overheat warning if it through the ECM, the buzzer sounds.
detects a rapid temperature increase after starting a cold The oil pressure warning system consists of the oil pres-
engine or excessive engine speed before the engine sure switch, oil warning light (Figure 96), buzzer and
reaches normal operating temperature. Allow the engine ECM. The oil pressure switch closes and sends a ground
to reach normal operating temperature before operating at signal to the ECM if the pressure is less than 1.0 kg/crn2
higher speeds. (14.0 psi.). If low oil pressure is detected, the ECM illuini-
78 CHAPTER THREE
nates the oil light and sounds the warning buzzer in an

on-off tone.
The overheat warning system consists of an engine tem-
@
perature sensor and exhaust manifold temperature sensor. Multimeter
An overheat warningoccurs if the ECM detects excessive
temperature from either sensor. On DF40 and DF50 inod-
els this occurs at temperatures of 121" C (250' F) or
higher. On DF60 and DF70 models this occurs at tempera-
tures of 11l o C (234' F) or higher. If overheating is de-
tected the ECM illuminates the temp light (Figure 96) and
sounds the warning buzzer in an on-off tone.
The CDI unit can also initiate an overheat warning if it
detects a rapid temperature increase after starting a cold
engine or excessive engine speed before the engine
reaches normal operating temperature. Allow the engine
to reach normal operating temperature before operating at
higher speeds.
In addition to activating the oil and temp lights, the
ECM limits engine speed to 3000 rpm by intermittently
switching off the fuel injectors. The ECM illuminates the
rev limit light while speed limiting occurs. The light goes
out if the engine speed is reduced below 3000 rpm.
If the warning system is activated by low oil pressure, If a check engine warning occurs, check the battery
normal operation resumes after switching the engine off condition as described in Chapter Seven. If the battery
and correcting the cause of low oil pressure. If the wam- tests correctly, test the charging system components as de-
ing is due to overheating, the temperature must drop be- scribed in this chapter.
low the activation temperatures listed above. If all components test correctly, yet the warning per-
If the oil or temp warning indicators are activated, stop sists, this may indicate excessive current draw from boat
the engine immediately and check the oil level as de- mounted accessories or in rare cases a defective ECM.
scribed in Chapter Four. Start the engine and check the
water indicator stream (Figure 93) at the back of the
lower engine cover. Thoroughly inspect the cooling sys- Oil Pressure Switch
tem if the stream is weak or absent. Check the oil pressure
as described in this chapter if the oil level is correct and a The location of the oil pressure switch (Figure 94) var-
strong water stream is present. Test all components of the ies by model.
warning system if the oil pressure is correct and the cool- On DF9.9 and DF15 models the switch is located di-
ing system is functioning. rectly above the CDI unit on the upper port side of the
power head.
The overspeed warning system (rev limit light) is acti-
vated if the engine speed exceeds the rev-limiter speed On DF25 and DF30 models the switch is located di-
(Table 27). Engine speed is limited to 3000 rpm if exces- rectly in line with the warning light on the lower front side
sive engine speed continues. To prevent speed limiting of the power head.
from being activated, reduce the engine speed to the rec- On DF40 and DF50 models the switch is located just
ommended range (Table 27) within 10 seconds of the below the flywheel on the upper port side of the power
wanting activation. Should speed limiting occur, deacti- head.
vate it by reducing the engine speed to 2500 rpm or less On DF60 and DF70 models the switch is located on the
for two seconds. starboard side of the power head. Remove the electric
The low battery warning occurs if the battery voltage component cover and ECM to access the switch.
drops to less than 9.9 volts for more than 30 seconds. The This test requires a multimeter and a vac~~~~mlpressurc
ECM illuminates the cheek engine light and sounds the pump (Figure 97). Test the switch as follows:
warning buzzer in an on-off tone. The ECM does not limit 1. Remove the oil pressure switch from the power head
engine speed for this condition. following the instructions provided in Chapter Seven.
black/white wire leads to the engine temper-
utzirp sensor. A violethhite and black/white
wire leads to the exhaust manifold tempera-
ture sensor. Verify the color of the connect-
ing wire to select the proper sensor.
1. Remove the engine temperature sensor as described in

Chapter Seven.
2. Select the ohms function on the meter. Select the range
for the specified temperature (Table 22).
3. Connect the positive meter test lead to the violet or
light green wire tenninal of the sensor. Connect the nega-
tive meter test lead to the black wire terminal. Suspend the
sensor in a container of cool water (Figure 98).
4. Place a thermometer in the container next to the sensor.
Note the temperature after allowing a few minutes for the
thermometer to stabilize.
5. Refer to Table 22 to determine the specified testing
temperatures. Heat or cool the water to the listed tempera-
tures. Do not allow the water to boil. Record the resistance
2. Locate the pressure port fitting on the vacuum/pres- at the listed temperatures.
sure pump. Carefully slide an appropriately sized hose 6. Compare the resistance reading and temperatures with
over the fitting side of the oil pressure switch (Figure 97). the specifications listed in Table 22. Replace the tempera-
Apply a clamp over the connection to ensure accurate test ture sensor if any readings are incorrect.
results. Do not apply pressure at this time. 7. Install the sensor as described in Chapter Seven.
3. Set the multimeter to the Rxl scale.
4 Connect the positive meter test lead to the wire termi- anifold Temperature Sensor
nal on the oil pressure switch (Figure 97). Connect the
negative meter test lead to body of the oil pressure switch. NOTE
Clamp the test lead to the switch if necessary to ensure a Suspend the exhaust manifold temperature
reliable test lead connection. sensorso that only the overheat switch is be-
5. The multimeter should indicate continuity. low the surface of the water. Inaccurate
6. Observe the multimeter reading and the pressure readings may occur i f the test leads contact
the water.
gauge while slowly applying pressure to the switch. Re-
cord the pressure reading when the meter indicates no 1. Remove the exhaust manifold temperature sensor as
continuity and compare that to the following: described in Chapter Seven.
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models no continuity should 2. Select the ohms function on the meter. Select the range
occur at approximately 0.3 kg/cm2 (4.3 psi). for the specified temperature (Table 23).
b. On DF25 and DF30 models no continuity should 3. Connect the positive meter test lead to the violet wire
occur at approximately 0.5 k g l c r n ~ 71. psi). tenninal of the sensor. Connect the negative meter test
c. On DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF70 models no conti- lead to the black wire terminal. Suspend the sensor in a
nuity should occur at 0.7-1.3 kglcm? 10- 18.5 psi). container of cool water (Figure 98).
7. Replace the oil pressure switch if inconsistent or incor- 4. Place a thermometer in the container next to the sensor.
rect test results are noted. Install the oil pressure switch as Note the temperature after allowing a few minutes for the
described in Chapter Seven. thermometer to stabilize.
5. Refcr to Table 23 to determine the specified testing
temperatures. Heat or cool the water to the listed tempera-
Cylinder Temperature Sensor
tures. Do not allow the water to boil. Record the resistance
NOTE at the listed temperatures.
DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF70 models use 6. Compare the resistance reading and temperatures with
both an engine and exhaust ma~z;'jo/dtern- the specifications listed in Table 23. Replace the tempera-
peratwe sensor. A light greedwhite and ture sensor if any readings are incorrect.
80 CHAPTER THREE
7. Install the sensor as described in Chapter Seven.
Warning Buzzer
WARNING
When performing a test ~isi17ga batten;
never make the final connection of a circuit
at the batten^ terminal. Arcing may occur
and ignite the explosive gasses that form
near the batten'.
This test requires a fully charged battery and jumper
leads. The warning buzzer is mounted within the control
box or behind the dash on remote control models. On tiller
control models the buzzer is mounted within the tiller con-
trol housing.
Access to both buzzer wire terminals is required for
testing. On tiller control models, remove the cover from
the tiller control housing as described in Chapter Eleven Pink
to access the buzzer wires. On remote control models, dis-
assemble the remote control enough to access the wires.
Remote control disassembly and assembly instructions
are provided in Chapter Twelve.
Connect the warning buzzer wires to the battery using
jumper leads as shown in Figure 99. Replace the warning
buzzer if it fails to emit a loud warning tone.
Warning Light
This test requires a 1.5 volt flashlight battery. The warn-

ing light is mounted on the front side of the lower engine
cover. Test the light as follows: Connect the black wire terminal to the negative battery
1. Remove the warning light from the lower cover as de- terminal. Maintain these connections for the remaining
scribed in Chapter Seven. test.
2. Touch the black wire terminal of the light harness to
3. Using a suitable jumper lead. connect the greer.!whitc
the negative test tenninal of the battery (Figure 100).
Touch the pink wire terminal to the positive battery tenni- wire tenninal to the negative battery terminal. The check
engine light (A, Figure 101) should illuminate.
nal. The light should illuminate.
3. Replace the warning light if it fails to illuminate. In- 4. Using a suitable jumper lead, connect the green~yellovv
stall the warning light as described in Chapter Seven. wire terminal to the negative battery terminal. The temp
light (B, Figure 101) should illuminate.
Combination TachometerIWarning Monitor 5. Using a suitable jumper lead, connect the bluetblack
(DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF70 Models) wire terminal to the negative battery terminal. The or1
This test requires a fully charged 12 volt battery and light (C, Figure 101) should illuminate.
jumper leads. Remove the monitor from the dash ifneces- 6. Using a suitable jumper lead, connect the pink n ire tcr-
sary to access the monitor wire connectors. Test the nioni- mmal to the positive battery terminal. The r w limit light
tor as follows: (D, Figure 101) should illuminate.
1. Disconnect the monitor harness connector. Disconnect
the black and gray monitor wire terminals. 7. Replace the monitor if any incorrect tests occur. Care-
2. Using jumper wires connect the gray wire terminal of fully connect the monitor harness connector and black and
the monitor to the positive battery terminal (Figure 101). gray wire connectors.
TROUBLESHOOTING AND TESTING
Glass tube
Fuse holder
\
wiring, incorrect wire routing and loose connection cause

@ most fuse failures.
Check the fuse(s) if the electric starter fails to operate or
Blown fuse
the starter operates but the engine fails to start. On remote
control models, a blown fuse prevents the dash mounted
instruments and the warning buzzer from operating when
the ignition key is switched on. Visually inspect the fuse
for a broken or burned element (Figure 102). A blown
fuse is usually visually apparent. However, a fuse can still
fail and not appear blown. Test the fuse to verify its condi-
tion.
Fuse Testing
FUSES AND WIRE HARNESS
Aniultimeter is required for this test. Refer to the wiring
WARNING diagrams at the end of the manual to identify the fuse con-
Avoid the potential for fire and/or damaged nection points. Trace the indicated wire colors to the fuse.
engine components. Never install a fuse Test the fuse as follows:
with a higher amperage rating than the 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the
original fuse. The wire harness may not fuse as follows:
have the capacity for a higher amperage
fuse. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the end a. On push in fuses, carefully pull the fuse (F'g I urc
of the manual to determine the fuse rating. 102) from the wire harness.
b. On glass tube fuses, pull the fiise holder (Figure
Blown fuses and faulty wire harness cause far more 103) from the mounting clamp. Pull the ends of the
electrical problems than failure of other electric compo- fuse holder to release the fuse.
nents. This section provides test and inspection instruc- 2. Set a multimeter to the Rxl scale. Connect the meter
tions for these components. test leads to each end or contact of the fuse. A continuity
Fuses are used on all electric start and battery charging reading indicates a good fuse.
models. Fuses help protect wires and electric components 3. If a blown fuse is found, thoroughly inspect the engine
from shorted or overloaded circuits. Blown fuses seldom wire harness and connections. Repair or replace faulty
occur during normal engine operation. Worn or damaged wires or connections before installing a new fuse.
4. Install the fuse then connect the negative battery cable.
Start the engine and operate the components powered by
the blown fuse. Arepeat failure of the fuse indicates a hid-
den short circuit along the circuit. Refer to the wiring dia-
grams at the end of the manual to identify the wires or
components connected to the fiise. Inspect or test all wir-
ing or components along the affected circuit.
5. If no wiring faults are found, check for radios or other Bent pin
electrical accessories wired into the circuit. The amperage
draw from these accessories and the engine instruments
niay exceed the fuse capacity. Provide an alternate con-
nection point for accessories to prevent potential fuse fail-
ure.
WIRE HARNESS
Due to the harsh marine environment, wiring harness

problems commonly occur. Suspect a wiring harness
problem if an electrical malfunction occurs, but all related
components test correctly. Most wire harness problen~s
are caused by dirty or damage wire terminals. In some in-
stances a broken or damaged wire within the harness
Loose connector
causes an intermittent open or shorted circuit. Inspect the
wire terminals and test the wire harness as described in
this section if a faulty harness is suspected.
Terminal Inspection 2. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of the manual
to identify the wire connection points.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped). 3A. On tiller control models, disconnect the tiller control
Remove and ground the spark leads. harness from the engine wire harness.
2. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of the manual 3B. On remote control models, disconnect the remote
to identify the wire connection points. Disconnect all wire control harness from the engine wire harness.
harness connectors from the electrical components.
3. Inspect the connectors for a bent pin (Figure 104). Pull 4. Note the wire routing and connection points then dis-
on the wires at the back of the connector to check for a connect all electric components from the engine wire har-
loose connector (Figure 105). Repair or replace the af- ness.
fected wire or harness if either of these conditions are 5. Set a multimeter to the R x 1 scale. Connect the meter
noted. test leads to each end of the selected wire color or circuit
4. Using a small pick or screwdriver, gently clean all cor- (Figure 106). The meter must indicate continuity. No
rosion or contaminants from the terminals. Work carefully continuity indicates a faulty wire or terminal.
and avoid damaging the terminals. Clean contaminants 6. With the meter test leads connected as described in
from the wire terminals using an electrical contact Step 5, bend, twist and manipulate the entire length of the
cleaner. suspect wire while observing the meter. A faulty wire is
indicated if intermittent no continuity readings are noted.
Using the meter, verify the faulty section of wire.
Wire Harness Testing
7. Repair or replace the wire if a constant or intennittent
Refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of the manual to fault is indicated. Carefully connect the wire harness to
identify wire harness connection points. the remote or tiller control harness and all electrical com-
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped). ponents. Ensure all connectors lock (Figure 107) to the
Remove and ground the spark leads. harness or electric components.
G AND TESTING 83
Problems with the power head can be as simple as stuck

piston rings, requiring only chemical additives to free
them, or problems can be as advanced as a seized power
head requiring a complete overhaul.
Engine Noises
Noise occurs in the power head during normal opera-

tion. A ticking noise or heavy knocking noise that intensi-
fies under acceleration is a reason for concern. If you
suspect a worn or damaged power head component is
making the noise, consider having a professional techni-
cian listen to the engine. In many cases, only the trained
ear of an experienced technician can determine if and
what components have failed. Make sure the noise is the
result of the power head before proceeding with an expen-
sive and time-consuming internal inspection. The cause
Locked may be as simple as a loose bracket or fastener. Refer to
the following sections that best describe the engine noise.
WARNING
Use extreme caution when working on or
around a running engine. Never wear loose
fitting clothing. Keep everyone away from
the ftj~~)lzeel,
drive belts and the propeller
shaft while the engine is running.
CAUTION
Ignoring suspicions noise may result in in-
creased damage to the power head.
Ticking noise
A ticking noise is common if valve adjustment is re-

quired or a valve train component has failed. Valve adjust-
ment instructions are provided in Chapter Five. See Valve
Train Failure (in this chapter) for additional troubleshoot-
ing tips.
A ticking noise can also result from a damaged piston.
Inspect the spark plug for physical damage (Figure 108)
or unusual deposits. Follow with a compression test as de-
scribed in this chapter. Complete power head disassembly
8. Install the spark plug leads and connect the negative and repair is required if the compression is low or physical
battery cable (if so equipped). damage or unusual deposits are found on the spark plug.
POWER HEAD Whirring noise
This section troubleshoots and tests the power head. A whirring noise that is most pronounced as the throttle
Areas covered include engine noises, lubrication system is decreased is usually caused by worn or damaged crank-
failure, detonation and preignition, engine seizure, valve shaft bearings. Be aware that a whirring noise can ema-
train failure, oil entering the combustion chamber and wa- nate from the flywheel. Noises can also transfer from the
ter entering the oil or combustion chamber. gearcase to the power head via the drive shaft.
84 CHAPTER THREE
Using a mechanics stethoscope, listen to the noise ema-

nating from the front or crankcase side of the cylinder
block. Compare the noise emanating from the individual
cylinders. This method can often verify a bearing noise
and which cylinder is affected.
Low oil pressure almost always accompanies bearing
failure. Check the oil level and condition as described in
Chapter Four. Test the oil pressure as described in this
chapter if the oil level and condition is correct. Disassem-
ble and repair the cylinder block if low oil pressure and
bearing noise is verified.
Knocking noise
A knocking noise usually indicates a failed crankshaft

or connecting rod bearing. Damaged piston and cylinder
head con~ponentscan also cause a knocking noise.
Use a nlechanics stethoscope to determine if the noise is
emanating from the crankcase or cylinder head area of the
power head. If the noise is more pronounced in the crank-
case area, a problem exists in the crankshaft and connect-
ing rod components. If the noise is more pronounced in
the cylinder head area, a problem exists with the piston or
valve train components.
Remove one spark plug lead and attach it to an engine
ground. Start the engine and listen for noise. Install the
spark plug lead and repeat the process for the remaining
cylinders. If less noise is noted with a particular lead
grounded, suspect that cylinder. only symptom is excessive wear of the valve train
components. This condition usually surfaces when the
CA UTION components are inspected during routine valve adjust-
<fa spark plug lead is not grounded the elec- ments. Lubrication system failures can be related to a
trical system may be damaged. Do not re- faulty lubrication system component or a problems with
move a spark plug lead with insulatedpliers
the oil itself. Common causes of lubrication system fail-
and attempt to ground it while the engine is
running. I f the lead is not quickly grounded ure include:
the electrical system may be damaged. 1. Low oil level.
2. Dirty or diluted oil.
Check the oil level and condition as described in Chap- 3. Wrong type of oil.
ter Four. Correct low oil level or change diluted oil and 4. A plugged oil screen or filter.
check for knocking noise. Test the oil pressure as de- 5. Worn or damaged oil pump components.
scribed in this chapter. When combined with low or unsta- 6. Damaged or dislodged oil pickup tube.
ble oil pressure, a knocking noise generally indicates a The low oil pressure warning system activates only if
problem within the power head. Disassemble and repair oil pressure drops below a set value. This value is set low
the power head as described in Chapter Eight. enough to prevent a warning system activation at the
lower pressure developed at idle speed. A fault with thc
Lubrication System Failure lubrication system can prevent adequate oil pressure at
higher engine speeds yet provide adequate oil pressure at
Running the engine with insufficient lubrication results idle speed.
in excessive wear and damage to power head components. Engine seizure may result from continued operation
Knocking or other types of noise are almost always prcs- without sufficient oil pressure. Rcfer to Engine Seizure in
ent with a lubrication system failure. In some cases the this section.
NG AND TESTING 85
inadequate cooling, lean fuel mixture, over-advanced ig-

nition timing and lugging are some of the conditions that
cause detonation. Never use a fuel with a lower than rec-
ommended octane rating. Its use may cause detonation
under normal operating conditions. If detonation occurs,
the engine produces a pinging noise not unlike the pinging
sometimes heard in automobiles. Outboards are consider-
ably noisier than automobiles, so the pinging is seldom
detected. Continued operation with detonation results in
eventual engine seizure. Detonation damage to the pistons
(Figure 109), valves and cylinder walls reduces engine
compression and causes poor performance and a rough
idle. Inspect the spark plugs for aluminum deposits (Fig-
ure 110) or melted electrodes (Figure 111). Follow with a
compression test as described in this chapter. Disassem-
ble and repair the power head as described in Chapter
Eight if low compression is present or the spark plugs in-
dicate possible engine damage. To avoid repeat failure,
address the cause of detonation prior to returning the en-
gine to service.
Preignition
Preignition is the result of a glowing object in the com-

bustion chamber causing early ignition. The wrong heat
range spark plugs, carbon deposits and inadequate cool-
ing are some of the causes of preignition. Preignition can
lead to severe power head component damage. Detona-
Check the oil pressure as described in this chapter if the tion damage is very similar and the early ignition can
low oil pressure warning system activates or a lubrication cause the increased heat and pressure that causes detona-
system failure is indicated. Disassemble, inspect and re- tion. A hole commonly forms in the piston dome (Figure
pair the power head if the lubrication system is suspect or 112) where preigntion has occurred. As with detonation
symptoms of lubrication failure are present. Power head damage, the engine runs poorly, particularly at idle speed.
disassembly, inspection and repair instructions are pro- Inspect the spark plugs as described in Chapter Four and
vided in Chapter Eight. perform a compression test as described in this chapter to
Check for thin diluted oil or the wrong type as described check for damage. Aluminum deposits (Figure 110) or a
in Chapter Four if excessive valve train component wear melted electrode (Figure 111) and low compression indi-
is noted. To prevent repeat failure or additional wear, locate piston damage. Disassemble and repair the power
cate and correct any oil related problems before operating head as described in Chapter Eight if these conditions are
the engine. noted. To avoid repeat failure, address the cause of
preignition prior to returning the engine to service.
Detonation
Detonation damage is the result of the heat and piessure Engine Seizure
in the combustion chamber becoming too great for the
fuel being used. Fuel normally burns at a controlled rate If the engine slowed down or came to an abrupt stop and
that causes the expanding gasses to drive the piston down. the starter is unable to turn the engine over, the engine
When conditions in the engine allow the heat and pressure may have seized. The engine may start after it cools and
to act too high, the fuel may explode violently These vio- then run rough at idle and lack power at higher speeds.
lent explosions in the combustion chamber cause serious Continued operation will only result in more extensive
damage to internal engine components. Carbon deposits. damage.
86 CHAPTER THREE
The primary reason for seizure is an internal power

head problem, such as a failed crankshaft and rod bearing
or detonatiordpreignition damage. Typically the failed
power head or gearcase components cause a gradual re-
duction in power and speed. The engine then seizes as the
throttle is reduced to investigate the cause of reduced
power. Failure of valve train components can cause an im-
mediate engine seizure. Extensive damage is likely with
an immediate seizure at higher engine speeds.
Always inspect the gearcase for contaminated lubricant
(as described in Chapter Four) before disassembling the
power head. A gearcase failure can be easily mistaken for
a power head failure.
Valve Train Failure
Failed or worn valve train components can cause an in-

ability to start the engine, hard starting, rough running
conditions, poor performance, backfiring from the ex-
haust or intake manifold, ticking noises or an engine sei-
zure.
CA UTION
Internal damage to the valves and pistons
can result from attempting to start the en-
gine with incorrect valve timing or a broken
timing belt.
Timing belt
(DF9.9, DF15, DF60 and DF70 models)
high operating hours. Worn valves guides usually accom-
A damaged timing belt (Figure 113) can result in an in- pany worn valves and seats (Figure 114). A compression
ability to start the engine, sluggish performance or a rough test will usually not detect worn valve guides unless they
running condition. A broken timing belt prevents cam- are worn to the point where they effect the valves sealing
shaft operation and causes a no start condition. ability. Disassembly and measurement is the only accu-
If the timing belt is sufficiently worn, it may allow the rate method to detect worn valve guides.
belt to jump over one or more of the teeth on the crank-
shaft pulley. This results in improper valve timing. Typi- Valves
cal symptoms include rough idle, poor performance and
backfiring. Check the valve timing as described in Chap- Corrosion or heavy carbon deposits can cause a valve
ter Five to determine if the belt has jumped. Replace the to stick open. Worn or damaged valves or valve contact
timing belt as described in Chapter Eight if inspection re- surfaces (Figure 114) prevent the valve from sealing
veals excessive wear orjumped teeth. To prevent potential properly. Either condition results in lost compression,
power head damage, Inspect the timing belt at the inter- rough running or backfiring. Backfiring or popping noises
vals listed in Chapter Four. coming from the intake or carburetor(s) indicates a prob-
lem with an intake valve. Likewise backfiring or other 1111-
Valve guides usual noise coming from the exhaust indicates a problem
with an exhaust valve.
Worn valve guides cause inconsistent or improper valve If detecting backfiring, try running the engine with one
to seat contact. The resulting poor sealing causes poor spark plug lead at a time grounded. If the backfire ceases
idle, backfiring and in some cases high oil consumption. when the spark is interrupted, a problem is indicated on
Worn valve guides usually occur only on an engine with that cylinder.
lobes (Figure 115). A worn camshaft lobe prevents the

valve from fully opening and the affected cylinder from
developing full power.
Camshaft wear is caused by dirty, diluted or the wrong
type of engine oil. Continuous operation (at low spccd) in
very cold water can contaminate the oil with fuel. Check
and/or change the oil frequently if operating under these
conditions.
Improper valve adjustment also contributes to camshaft
wear. Adjust the valves at the recommended intervals to
reduce the chance of camshaft wear. Refer to maintenance
intervals and instructions in Chapter Four.
Perform a compression test to check for camshaft re-
lated problems. Low compression is usually present on
the affected cylinder. Noisy valve operation almost al-
ways accompanies camshaft wear. Try running the engine
with one spark plug lead at a time grounded. A worn cam-
shaft lobe causes little difference in power output when
- -C\ Rocker the spark plug lead of the affected cylinder is grounded.
->a' / - ,
< -
arm
Visually inspect the camshaft surfaces if the indicated
symptoms are present. Remove the rocker arm cover
(Figure 116) as described in Chapter Five. Inspect the
camshaft surfaces as described in Chapter Eight. Replace
the camshaft and other worn or damaged components if
defects are noted.
Rocker arm
Rocker arm wear causes a noise emanating from the

cylinder head and poor performance due to a loss of com-
pression in the corresponding cylinder. Perform a com-
pression test as described in this chapter to verify which
cylinder is affected. Remove the rocker arm cover (Fig-
ure 116) as described in Chapter Five. Visually inspect all
A valve that is stuck open can contact the top of the pis-
rocker arms for damaged or excessively worn surfaces.
ton, resulting in a bent valve andlor damage to the piston.
Replace worn or damaged components as described in
Stuck valves are generally the result of improper
Chapter Eight.
long-term storage, water entering the cylinder from a
blown head gasket or submersion of the engine. Using the
wrong type of oil, a lean fuel condition, overheating, or Water Entering the Combustion Chamber
lugging the engine all contribute to increased deposits or
excessive valve wear. Water can enter the combustion chamber from a num-
Perform a compression test as described in this chapter ber of areas, such as water in the fuel, water entering the
if a valve or valve seat problem is suspected. Disassemble intake manifold, leaking exhaust coverslgaskets, leaking
and inspect the valves and seats to verify this condition. cylinder head or gasket, internal leakage in the cylinder
block or a leak at the power head-to-drive shaft housing
mating surfaces. The typical symptom of water intrusion
Camshaft is rough running, particularly at idle. The engine may run
correctly at higher engine speeds. Remove and inspect the
A damaged camshaft can cause rough idle and/or poor spark plug to verify water intrusion. Rust, white deposits
overall perforn~ance. The most common problem is or water on the plug is likely with water intrusion. Com-
caused by excessive wear or rounding of the camshaft pare the suspect spark plug(s) with the plugs fro111remain-
CHAPTER THREE
ing cylinders. Water intrusion removes carbon deposits

from the spark plug. Install a spark plug from an unaf-
fected cylinder into the suspect cylinder. Run the engine,
then remove and inspect the spark plug. If the carbon de-
posits have been removed or there is water on the plug this
indicates water intrusion. If water intrusion is indicated
remove the cylinder head as described in Chapter Eight. A
cylinder with water intrusion has significantly less carbon
deposits on the piston, valves, and cylinder head surfaces.
Complete power head repair is not required if the cause
and damage is confined to the cylinder head. Typical
causes include a failed cylinder head gasket or cracked
cylinder head.
Internal leakage in the cylinder block can be difficult to
find. Casting flaws, pinholes, and cracks may or may not
be visible. Replacement of the cylinder block or cylinder
head is required if water intrusion persist and no visible
defect is found. Always inspect the exhaust cover for de-
fects before condemning other components. Continued
water intrusion will eventually result in power head fail-
ure.
Water Entering the Oil
Water entering the oil causes a milky appearance and an

increase in oil level. Water can enter the oil from a number
of areas. Typical causes include leakage at the cylinder
head gasket, oil pan gasket (Figure 117) and cracks or
other defects in the cylinder block or head. Continued op-
eration (at low engine speed) in very cool or humid cli-
mates allows a fair amount of water condensation in the
oil pan. Change the oil and filter as described in Chapter
Four if water is found in the oil. Operate the engine while
stopping frequently to check for water. If no water is
found, normal condensation is the likely source. Remove inders have lower readings than the others. Minor leakage
and inspect the power head components if water reappears may not be detected with a compression test. Perform a
in the oil. Continued operation with water entering the oil leak down test if the above symptoms occur and other
eventually results in power head failure. causes are ruled out. A leak down test offers a more reli-
able means for detecting minor leakage. It may be neces-
sary to remove and inspect the gasket and mating surfaces
Failed Cylinder Head Gasket to verify this type of fault.
A failed cylinder head gasket allows compression leak-

age, water leakage or oil leakage. Leakage usually occurs Oil Entering the Cylinders
internally yet external leakage can occur. Typical symp-
toms include rough running (particularly at idle speed), Oil entering the cylinder(s) is almost always the result
water entering the cylinder(s), water entering the oil and of storing the engine improperly. If positioned iinprop-
overheating (particularly at higher engine speeds). In erly, oil from the crankcase or oil pan can flow past the
some instances a whistling noise occurs near the cylinder piston rings and enter the combustion chamber. If the en-
head to cylinder block mating surfaces. gine will not turn over, the cylinders may be hydraulically
Perform a compression test as described in this chapter locked. Remove the spark plugs and slowly rotate the fly-
if these symptoms are noted. Typically two adjoining cyl- wheel to expel the oil. Check and correct the oil level be-
TROUBLESHOOTING AND T 89
External Oil Leakage
In most cased, oil leakage is easily detected and cor-

rected. Common leakage points include the rocker arm
cover (Figure 116), oil filter mounting surface, fuel pump
mounting surface and crankcase cover mating surfaces
(Figure 119). Carefully clean the engine surfaces with a
degrcasing agent. Run the engine until it reaches operat-
ing temperature. Turn the engine off, then inspect all po-
tential leakage points for fresh leakage. Tighten fasteners
or replace gaskets for the affected surface or component.
High Oil Consumption
All engines burn some oil during normal operation due

to the oil that enters the combustion chamber past the pis-
ton rings and valves. There are no standard oil cons~inip-
tion specifications. Oil consumption rates will vary by
model, condition of the engine and operating conditions.
New or recently rebuilt engines generally consume
more oil during the break-in period. After the break-in pe-
riod oil consumption drops. Engines with worn internal
components generally burn more oil. A typical symptom
of excessive oil consumption is blue smoke coming from
the exhaust during hard acceleration or high speed opera-
tion.
Inspection of the spark plug usually reveals oil fouling.
Perform a compression test as described in this chapter if
oil fouled spark plugs or blue exhaust smoke is noted.
Worn or damaged components generally cause low com-
pression results. Check for external oil leakage or leakage
at the oil pan gasket (Figure 117) if high oil consumption
is noted and oil burning is ruled out.
Compression Test
CA UTION
Ensure the cratzkitg batten' is f~illlj charged
before performing a compression test.
Using a weak Lmtteiy may result in low com-
pression readings.
A compression gauge (Figure 120) and special adapter

(Suzuki part Nos. 099 15-645 10 and 099 15-632 10) are re-
quired for this test. The use of a different compression
fore starting the engine. Other symptoms of oil entering
gauge is possible. Make sure the threaded end of the
the cylinders include fouled spark plugs and high oil con-
gauge matches the threads of the special adapter.
sunlption.
1. Remove the spark plugs and connect the plug leads
The preferred storage position is upright (Figure 118). ground. Place the throttle in the wide open position.
If the engine must be stored or transported on the side or 2. Thread the special adapter into the No. 1 (top) spark
top, drain the oil as described in Chapter Eight. Refill the plug opening. Attach the compression gauge onto the spe-
oil before operating the engine. cial adapter.
90 CHAPTER TORE
3. Stand clear of rhe remaining spark plug openings dur-

ing testing. Obsen e the compression gauge while operat-
ing the manual or electric starter. Ensure the engine has
made a minimum of ten revolutions. Record the inaxi-
mum compression reading. Gauae
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the remaining cylinders. Re-
cord all compression readings.
5. Compare the compression readings with the specifica-
tion in Table 24. Perform Step 8 if all compression read-
ings are within the specification.
6. Squirt approximately one teaspoon of engine oil into
the spark plug opening of any cylinder with low compres-
sion. Rotate the engine several revolutions to distribute
the oil in the cylinder(s). Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for any sus-
pect cylinder.
7. Compare the second con~pressionreading with the
first compression reading. A higher second reading indi-
cates the low compression is the result of a problem with
the piston, piston rings or cylinder walls. A problem with
a valve or valve seat is indicted if no increase in compres-
sion is noted. Repair the power head as described in Chap- 4. Following the manufactures instructions, connect the
ter Eight. shop tachometer to the engine. Start the engine and imme-
8. Place the throttle in the idle speed position. Remove diately check for oil leakage at the gauge attaching points.
the conlpression gauge and adapter. Install the spark plugs Correct any leakage before proceeding.
and leads. 5. Slowly advance the throttle until the tachometer indi-
cates the speed specified in Table 25. Record the oil pres-
sure reading. Return the throttle to idle speed then switch
Oil Pressure Test
the engine off.
This test requires a shop tachometer, oil pressure gauge 6. Remove the shop tachometer, oil pressure gauge and
and special test adapter. Purchase the special adapter (part adapter. Clean up any spilled oil. Install the oil pressure
No. 099 15-782 11) from a Suzuki dealership. Purchase the switch as described in Chapter Seven.
shop tachometer and oil pressure gauge from an automo- 7. Compare the oil pressure reading with the specifica-
tive parts store or tool supplier. The oil pressure gauge tion. A low oil pressure reading indicates low oil level, di-
must be capable of reading pressure in the range of 0-7 luted oil, wrong type of oil, a faulty oil pump or damage to
k g l c m ~ 0 - 1 0 0psi). An oil pressure gauge (part No. the crankshaft and bearings. A high oil pressure reading
09915-773 10) and shop tachometer (part No. indicates a faulty or blocked oil pressure relief valve,
09900-26006) can be purchased from a Suzuki dealership blockage at the power head mating surface or blockage in
as well. the cylinder oil passages. Inspect or repair these compo-
Perform the test while running the engine on a flush test nents as described in Chapter Eight.
device or in a suitable test tank. Take all necessary precau-
tions to prevent injury to yourself or others. Refer to Table
25 for oil pressurelengine speed specifications. COOLING SYSTEM
1. Run the engine until it reaches operating temperature.
This may take as much as 10 minutes. Stop the engine iin- The cooling system for Suzuki 4-stroke outboards is
mediately if the oil pressure warning system activates. relatively simple. Water is pumped by the drive shaft
2. Switch the engine off. Remove the oil pressure switch driven water pump (Figure 122) to the exhaust manifold
as described in Chapter Seven. Tape back the discon- area of the power head. This water enters to the cylinder
nected oil pressure switch wire to prevent grounding or block then cylinder head. Water exits the cylinder head
contact with moving components. and block through the thermostat, pressure relief valve,
3. Install the adapter (Figure 121) into the threaded open- water indicator stream and dedicated drain passages. Ex-
ing for the oil pressure switch and firmly tighten. Attach cept for the water indicator stream all exiting water is di-
the oil pressure gauge (Figure 121) to the adapter. rected into the drive shaft housing.
122) TYPICAL WATER PUMP
blocked with debris and ceases flowing. This leads one to

1. Gasket suspect a cooling system malfunction. Clean the opening
2. Oil seals in the fitting using a stiff piece of wire before testing or in-
3. Water pump specting other cooling system components.
base All models, except DF9.9 and DF15, are equipped with
4. Gasket
5. Wear plate
a water pressure relief valve. This valve allows additional
6. Gasket water flow at higher engine speeds by providing an addi-
7. Impeller tional exit passage. Increased water pump flow and pres-
8. Insert sure at higher engine speeds causes the valve to open.
9. Water pump
As water flows through the power head it absorbs then
body
removes excess heat. If the engine is overheating, the
problem is that water is not flowing through the power
head in sufficient volume or it is not absorbing the heat. In
most cases the cause of overheating is related to insuffi-
cient water flow. However, salt or other deposits in the
cooling passages not only restrict water flow, they insu-
late the hot components and prevent heat transfer to the
water.
NOTE
Ifpossible, checkfor overheating under ac-
tual running conditions. When testing
smaller engines using a suitable test tank,
the pressurized flush test device may mask
problems with the water pump and other
cooling system components.
Cooling System Test

All models are equipped with a thermostat (Figure 123) Inspect the water pump as described in Chapter Nine if
to maintain a minimum power head temperature and inl- the water stream fails to appear within a few seconds of
prove low speed running characteristics. It works by re- starting the engine or the overheat warning system acti-
stricting exiting water until it reaches the minimum vates.
temperature. Verify overheating using thennomelt sticks (Figure
The water indicator stream appears once the cooling 124). Thermomelt sticks are designed to melt at a given
passages are filled with water and water starts exiting the temperature. Hold the end of the stick to the cylinder head
power head. The water stream fitting commonly becomes and near the engine temperature sensor. On models not
equipped with and engine temperature sensor, hold the
stick to an area next to the spark plug opening. Try to
check the temperature during or immediately after an
overheat warning. Hold different temperature range sticks
to the engine to determine the temperature range the en-
gine is reaching. Stop the engine if the temperature ex-
ceeds 90' C (194' F) to avoid engine damage.
If the temperatures exceed 90" C (194' F), inspect or
test the thermostat as described in this section. The ther-
mostat is far easier to access than the water pressure relief
valve. Inspect the water pressure relief valve if overheat-
ing occurs primarily at higher engine speeds and a faulty
water pump and thermostat are ruled out. Remove the cyl-
inder head and exhaust cover as described in Chapter
Eight for water passage inspection if overheating persist
and no faults are found with the water pressure relief
valve. Water pressure relief valve, exhaust cover and ther-
mostat removal and installation instructions are in Chap-
ter Eight.
Testing the Thermostat
WARNING
To avoid serious injury or death, remove the
propeller before running the engine on a
flush test device. Disconnect the negative
battery cable and spark plug leads before
removing or installing the propeller.
CA UTION
Never run an outboard without providing
cooling water. Use either a test tank orflush 5. Closing temperature specifications arc not pro\ ided by
test device. the manufacture. Typically a thermostat should close
within 10' F of the opening temperature.
A fault with the thermostat can cause overheating or
prevent the engine from reaching normal operating tem- 6. Replace the thermostat if an incorrcet opening or clos-
perature. A thennometer, piece of string and a container of ing temperature is indicated.
water that can be heated are required for this test.
7. Install the thermostat as described in Chapter Eight.
1. Remove the thennostat as described in Chapter Eight.
Suspend the thennostat in a container of water (Figure
125).
2. Place a thermometer in the container and begin heating
the water. Continue to heat the water while observing the
thermostat for valve opening. Stop the test if the water be-
gins boiling before the thermostat opens. Problems with the gearcase can include water or lubri-
3. Record the temperature when thermostat just starts to cant leakage, a slipping propeller hub, failed internal com-
open. Stop heating the water and again observe the ther- ponents, noisy operation, or shifting difficulty. Thc keys
mostat as the water cools. Record the temperature when to preventing gearcase problems are to avoid contact with
the thermostat just starts to close. underwater objects, shift the engine at idle speed only and
4. Compare the opening temperature with the specifica- perform regular maintenance. Maintenance instructions
tion in Table 26. for the gearcase are provided in Chapter Four.
TROUBLESHOOTING AND 3
ance when inspected during routine maintenance. Touch

the end of the drain plug, then rub some of the metal parti-
cles between your fingers. If any of the particles are large
enough to feel, inspect the gearcase completely and repair
it as needed (Chapter Nine).
Propeller Hub Slippage
All Suzuki 4-stroke outboard use a shock hub type pro-

peller. The shock absorbing hub is integrated into the
splined section of the propeller (Figure 126). The hub
connects the splined section the propeller shaft to the pro-
peller. It is constructed of a rubber material that provides a
cushioning effect to the gearcase components during
shifting. This reduces the wear that occurs during normal
Water or Lubricant Leakage operation. It cannot prevent damage due to high speed
shifting. The hub provides some protection to the
A small amount of water may be present in the lubricant gearcase components should the propeller strike an under-
if the gearcase has not received regular maintenance and water object at lower boat and engine speeds. It cannot
is stored while submerged in water. Even with near per- prevent damage at higher speeds.
fect seals and sealing surfaces, small amounts of water With use, weathering and age the propeller hub material
seep into the gearcase with use. A small amount of water deteriorates. A deteriorated hub spins within its bore in-
is usually not visibly apparent as it is held in suspension stead of turning the propeller. Typically the hub is able to
by the gearcase lubricant. Small amounts of suspended spin the propeller at lower throttle settings. Increased
water cause very little harm to the gearcase components. throttle setting causes spinning that results in increased
Changing the gearcase lubricant at regular intervals re- engine speed with no or very little increase in boat speed.
moves the water and other contaminants before it leads to In most cases the boat will not reach planing speed. Verify
damaged components. hub spinning by making reference marks on the propeller
Worn or damaged seals andlor shafts allow excessive shaft and propeller. Operate the engine until the slipping
amounts of water into the gearcase. As the amount ofwa- occurs. Conlpare the marks after removing the engine
ter increases, the gearcase lubricant takes on a milky ap- from the water. Repair the propeller if the reference marks
pearance. Continued water intrusion causes the water to do not align after running the engine.
separate from the lubricant and settle to the bottom of the
gearcase housing. Unless promptly removed, the
Gearcase Vibration or Noise
non-suspended water causes corrosion damage to gears,
bearings and shafts. Check the gearcase lubricant level
Normal gearcase noise is barely noticeable over normal
and condition at the recommended intervals (Chapter
engine noise. A rough growling noise or loud high pitched
Four) to detect water intrusion before it leads to damaged
whine may be reason for concern. These noises are LISLI-
components. Pressure test the gearcase as described in
ally caused by faulty internal components. On occasion, a
this section if the oil has a milky appearance or water is
knocking noise may emanate from the gearcase, leading
found in the gearcase.
one to believe a problem is present in the power head. In-
The presence of gearcase lubricant on or around the spect the gearcase lubricant for metal contan~inationif ab-
gearcase indicates a leak and the need to pressure test the normal noises are heard. Contamination indicates
gearcase. Failure to correct leakage will result in eventual gearcase component failure.
gear, bearing and shaft damage. Gearcase repair instr-uc-
A knocking or grinding noise from the gearcase is likely
tions are in Chapter Nine.
caused by damaged gears or other components. Damaged
gears typically create a substantial amount of large metal
Metal Contamination in the Lubricant particles. The gears may be damaged from underwater
impact or high speed shifting. This type of failure usually
Fine metal particles form in the gearcase during normal damages most internal components and necessitates com-
use. The gearcase lubricant may have metal flake appear- plete repair. Refer to Chapter Nine for instructions.
Squealing or a high pitched whine usually indicates
bearing problem or, in some cases, gear misalignment.
The only way to verify that a problem exists is to disas-
semble and inspect the gearcase components. Refer to
Chapter Nine for instructions.
Vibration in the engine can and often does originate in
the gearcase. In most all cases, the vibration is due to a
bent propeller shaft or damaged propeller. The propeller
may appear to be in perfect condition, yet be out of bal-
ance. The best way to solve propeller-caused vibration is
to have the propeller examined by a propeller shop. An-
other option is to try a different propeller. Have the pro-
peller balanced and trued if there is a significant reduction
in vibration.
Always check for a bent propeller shaft if vibration is
present. Check the propeller shaft following the instruc-
tions provided in Chapter Nine. Hitting an underwater ob-
ject(~)usually bends the propeller shaft. In many cases,
other damage occurs to the gearcase. Inspect the gearcase
lubricant as described in this section.
Never operate the engine if it vibrates severely. Vi-
brating components place added stress on the gears, bear-
ings and other components.
Shifting Difficulty
Difficult or hard shifting is usually the result of irnprop-

erly adjusted shift cables or linkage. Adjust the shift ca-
bles or linkage as described in Chapter Five. Check for
worn, stiff or improperly routed shift cables or linkage if
the adjustment is found to be correct. Inspect the shifting
components within the gearcase if difficult shifting per-
sists. Refer to Chapter Nine for gearcase repair instruc-
tions.
Pressure Testing
A gearcase pressure tester is required for this test. A

container of water large enough to allow gearcase sub-
mersion may also be required.
1. Thoroughly drain the gearcase following the instruc-
tions in Chapter Four. Refer to Chapter Nine to remove
the gearcase from the engine.
2. Install the pressure tester fitting into the oil level plug
opening (Figure 127). Install the drain plug into the
4. If the unit does not hold pressure for at least 10 sec-
drainifill opening. Securely tighten the drain plug and
onds, submerge the gearcase and look for bubbles to de-
pressure tester fitting.
termine the source of leakage.
3. Slowly apply pressure to the gearcase (Figure 127).
Push, pull and turn all shafts while observing the gauge 5. Slowly release the air pressure from the gearcase. Re-
and increasing pressure. Stop increasing pressure when it place the defective seal(~)or other components as de-
reaches 100 kPa (14.2 psi). scribed in Chapter Nine.
These models are equipped with a tilt pin (Figure 128)

and mechanical reverse lock mechanism. The tilt pin can 3
be adjusted to the angle of the boat transom by moving the
pin to a different clamp bracket hole (Figure 128). The
mechanical reverse lock mechanism prevents the engine
from tilting up when operated in reverse gear.
DF25, DF30, DF40 and DF50 Models
These models are equipped with either a gas assist tilt

system (Figure 129) or a single hydraulic cylinder power
trim system (Figure 130).
The gas assist tilt system uses pressurized nitrogen gas
to assist with tilting the engine for trailering or beaching
the boat. The gas assist hydraulic cylinder holds the en-
gine in the selected running position, holds the engine
down in reverse and provides shock absorbing capability
during impact with underwater objects. Moving the tilt
lock lever (Figure 131) opens or closes the valves that re-
lease or lock the engine in position.
The optional single cylinder hydraulic trim system is
mounted (except for the switches and relays) between the
clamp brackets. An electric motor driven hydraulic pump
delivers the pressurized fluid required by the system. The
hydraulic cylinder provides shock absorbing capability
during impact with underwater objects. This self con-
tained system requires no external hydraulic lines that
may corrode or leak.
Selecting the up position on the trim switch causes the
electric motor and pump to rotate and direct pressurized
fluid to the up side of the hydraulic cylinder. The working
force created by the pressurized fluid is strong enough to
move the engine against the propeller thrust while under-
way. Stopping the hydraulic pump closes valves that lock
the fluid within the cylinder to hold the engine in position.
Selecting the down position on the trim switch causes
the electric n~otorand pump to reverse direction and direct
fluid to the down side of the cylinder and move the engine
down.
A manual relief valve is located within an opening in
the port clamp bracket. When opened it releases the fluid
6. Refer to Chapter Nine to install the gearcase. Refill the from the hydraulic cylinders, allowing manual engine tilt-
gearcase with lubricant as described in Chapter Four. me.
DF60 and DF70 Models

TRIM SYSTEM
These models are equipped with a three cylinder hy-
draulic trim system (Figure 132). Except for the switches
The type of trim and tilt system varies by model and op- and relays, the entire system is positioned between the
tional equipment. Refer to the appropriate section. clamp brackets. This system requires no external hydrau-
96 CHAPTER THREE
lie lines that may corrode or leak. Engine mounted relays

control the direction of rotation of the electric motor and
hydraulic punip.
Selecting the up position on the trim switch causes the
pump to rotate in a direction that directs fluid to the up
side of the trim and tilt cylinders ( 3 and 4, Figure 133).
The working force created by the cylinders is strong 1. Electric motor
enough to tilt the engine out against propeller thnist. and pump
Stopping the hydraulic pump closes valves that lock the 2. Fluid reservoir
3. Trim cylinders
fluid within the cylinder to hold the engine in position. 4. Tilt cylider
The tilt cylinder (4, Figure 133) provides shock absorbing
capability during impact with underwater objects.
When the trim cylinders ( 3 , Figure 133) fully extend,
the tilt cylinder (4, Figure 133) becomes the only means
to move the engine up or out. The engine tilts quicker as
all of the fluid is directed to the tilt cylinder. However the
system develops less force as only one cylinder drives the
system. The reduced force effectively limits the trim
range while running at higher throttle settings. At lower
throttle settings the single cylinder provides enough force
to tilt the engine up for shallow water operation.
Selecting the down position on the switch causes the
electric motor and pump to reverse direction. Fluid is then
directed to the down side of the tilt cylinder causing the
engine to move downward.
A manual relief valve is located within an opening in
the port clamp bracket (Figure 134). When opened it re-
leases the fluid from the hydraulic cylinders, allowing
manual engine tilting.
NOTE
Afault with the gas assist tilt system causes
a leak down or a loss of assist when tilting 5. Replace the hydraulic pump as described in Chapter
the engine. This system is non-serviceable.
Eleven.
Replace the system as described in Chapter
Eleven should a fault occur.
Leaks down from the full tilt position
Hydraulic Trim System Testing 1. Check the position of the manual relief valve.
2. Check the fluid level as described in Chapter Eleven,
Diagnose hydraulic trim problems by comparing the 3. Remove and inspect the manual relief valve as de-
symptoms in the following section with the possible scribed in Chapter Eleven.
causes listed under each symptom. 4. Have a professional replace all system seals and
O-rings.
5. Replace the hydraulic pump as described in Chapter
Will not move up or down Eleven if the symptoms persist
1. Check the electric trim motor operation.

Engine will not move against propeller
2. Check the fluid level as described in Chapter Eleven.
thrust yet holds tilt position
3. Check the position of the manual relief valve.
4. Inspect the manual relief valve O-ring as described in 1. Have a professional replace all system seals and
Chapter Eleven. O-rings.
The main wire harness is connected to the battery with a

fuse. A defective fuse will prevent battery voltage from
reaching the trim switches. Refer to Fuse Test for instrue-
tions if the trim systcm will not operate in either direction.
If the fuse is blown, the starter and gauges will also be in-
operative.
Selecting the up position on the trim switch directs cur-
rent to the up reply (Figure 137). The relay connects the
blue trim motor wire to the battery side of the starting re-
lay. The motor then rotates in the direction that causes the
engine to trim up.
Selecting the down position on the switch directs cur-
rent to the down relay. The relay connects the green trim
motor wire to the battery side of the starting relay. The
motor then rotates in the direction that causes the engine
to trim down.
When the trim system is not activated the relays con-
nect the blue and green trim motor wires to ground.
The system monitors the trim position with a variable
resistance trim position sender and dash mounted trim
gauge.
Test the trim system as described in the following sec-
tions if the pump fails to operate.
Relay switching test
A multimcter is required for this test. Perform this test

before testing other trim system components.
1. Using the wiring diagrams at the end of the manual,
2. Replace the hydraulic pump as described in Cliaptcr
identify the wire colors used for the trim switches (Figure
Ele\ en.
136) and trim relays (Figure 135). Trace the wires to their
connection points at the trim relays.
Engine tilts up in reverse or 2. Select the 20 or 40 VDC scale on the meter. Connect
while slowing down the negative meter test lead to the black wire at the up re-
lay and the positive lead to the red wire at the up relay.
1 Check the position of the manual relief valve. Note the meter reading then move the meter negative (-)
2. Check the fluid level as described in Chapter Eleven. to the black wire on the down relay. Battery voltage must
3. Remove and inspect the manual relief valve as de- be present at both connections. If battery voltage is not
scribed in Chapter Eleven. present, first inspect the battery cables for loose or cor-
4. Have a professional replace all system seals and roded terminals, Then inspect the black relay ground
O-rings. wires for loose damaged or corroded terminals. Repair
5. Replace the hydraulic pump as described in Chapter faulty connections as required.
Eleven. 3. Connect the negative meter test lead to the black wire
terminal at the up relay. Connect the positive lead to the
Electrical Trim System red wire terminal at the up relay. Note the meter reading
then move the positive lead to the red wire on the down re-
The major electrical components of the trim system in- lay. Battery voltage must be present at both connections.
clude the electric motor, trim relays (Figure 135) and the If not, check for a loose, damaged or corroded wire tenni-
trim switches (Figure 136). DF40, DF50. DF60 and DF70 nal. Repair faulty wires and terminals as required.
models may be equipped with an optional trim position 4. Connect the negative meter test lead to the black wire
sender and dash mounted trim gauge. The relays control terminal at the up relay and the positive test lead to the sky
current flow to the electric trim motor (Figure 137). blue (sb) terminal on the relay. Toggle the trim switches in
98 CHAPTER THFtEE
PTT switch
Remote control
relay
Electric trim
motor
Color Code
Starting B Black
relay W White
R Red
G Green
L Blue
P Pink
Gr Gray
Sb Sky blue
YIG YelIowlGreen
Battery
the up direction while observing the meter. Battery volt- be noted. If not, perform the relay continuity test as de-
age sl~ouldbe noted. If not, test the trim switches as described in this chapter.
scribed in this chapter. 8. If the test results are as specified, but the trim motor
5. Move the positive meter test lead to the blue (L) wire at fails to operate, check for damaged blue and green wires
the up relay. Note the meter reading while toggling the and terminals. If no faults are found with the wires, repair
trim switch in the up direction. Battery voltage should be or replace the electric trim motor as described in Chapter
noted. If not, perform the relay continuity test as described Eleven.
in this chapter.
6 . Connect the negative meter test lead to the black wire
terminal at the down relay and the positive test lead to the Relay continuity test
pink terminal at the relay. Toggle the trim switches in the
down direction wl~ileobserving the meter. Battery voltage This test requires a ~nultimeter,jumper leads and a fully
should be noted. If not, test the trim switches as described charged 12 volt battery.
in this chapter. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Disconnect all
7. Move the positive meter test lead to the green wire on cables from the relays.
the down relay. Note the meter reading while toggling the 2. Set the n~ultiineterto the Rxl scale. Connect the meter
trim switch in the down direction. Batteiy voltage should to the relay terminals (Figure 138) as follows:
OOTING AND TESTING 99
Testing instructions are similar regardless of the switch

location. Battery voltage is applied to the switch by a wire
connection to the ignition switch or the engine wire Im-
ness. Check the fuse or wire harness if voltage is not pres-
Pink wire ent on the wire.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. If testing the re-
mote control mounted switch, refer to Chapter Twelve for
remote control disassembly instructions. Disassemble the
remote control to the point necessary to access the trim
switcl~wire connectors.
2. Carefully disconnect the three trim switch wires from
the remote control or engine wire hamess.
3. Set the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Connect the positive
metes test lead to the whitelred or gray wire terminal. Con-
nect the negative lead to the sky blue (sb) wire terminal. In
the off position, the switch should have no continuity.
4. With the leads connected as described in Step 3, toggle
the switch to the up position. The switch should have con-
PTT switch tinuity in the up position.
w 5. Connect the positive meter test lead to the whitelred or
gray wire terminal. Connect the negative lead to the pink
wire terminal. The switch should have no continuity in the
UP Down off position.
6. With the leads connected as described in Step 5, toggle
the switch to the down position. The switch sl~ouldhave
continuity. Note the meter reading while toggling the
switch to the up position. The switch should have no con-
tin~~ity.
7. Replace the trim switch if the test results are incorrect.
Clean the wire terminals and carefiilly connect the switch
wircs to the remote control or engine wire lximess. Route
a. Connect the test leads to the C and D relay termi- the wires to avoid interference. Repeat the test for the en-
nals. No contin~~ity should be noted. gine cover mounted trim switch (Figure 136).
b
b. Connect the test leads to the A and B relay termi- 8. Reconnect all wires. Connect the negative battery ca-
nals. Continuity should be noted. bles
c. Connect the test leads to the B and C terminals.
Continuity should be noted.
Trim position sender
3. Connect the test leads to the C and D relay terminals.
Using jumper wires, connect the positive terminal of the NOTE
batteiy to the sky blue (sb) or pink relay wire (Figure Avoid attempting to repair damaged wire in-
138). Note the meter reading while connecting the black sulation on trim motor and trim position
relay wire to the negative battery terminal. Continuity sender wires. It is almost impossible to to-
should be noted. tullj seal worn, cracked or damaged wire
insulation. Even apin sized hole allows wa-
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the remaining relay. Replace ter into the component. Also note that in-
the relay if it does not function as specified. crectsed engine corrosion is likely [f
electrically live wires are in contact with
wutei:
Trim switch test
A faulty sender is generally the result of deteriorated or
The trim system is controlled by a three-position switch corroded wiring. Place the engine in the fiill tilt position
(Figure 139) nlo~mtedto the remote control, dash panel, and inspect the sensor wires for worn or damaged insula-
tiller handle or lower engine cover (Figure 136). tion. Replace the sender as described in Chapter Eleven if
defective wiring is noted. Adjust the trim position sender
as described in Chapter Five if the gauge fails to reach the
&ill up and down positions.
1. Remove the trim position sender as described in C l q -
1 Black
ter Eleven. Set a multimeter to the Rx100 scale.

2. Connect the negative meter test lead to the black
sender wire (Figure 140) and the positive lead to the pink
sender wire. Allow the spring on the sender to move the
lever to the full tilt position. The meter readings SIIOLII~in-
dicate 360-540 ohms.
3. Note the meter readings while slowly moving the
sender lever toward the fill down position (against spring
tension). Tlie meter should indicate 800-1200 ohms with
the sender in the full down position.
4. Replace the sender if it fails to operate as described.
Replace the sender if abrupt changes in the resistance are
noted while moving the lever. The resistance m s t cliange 1. The low-pressure system.
smoothly as the lever is moved.
2. The high-pressue system.
5. Install tlie trim position sender as described in Chapter
3. The engine control systeni.
Eleven.
The low-pressure system consists of the can1 dri\wi
6. Cl~eckall wiring from the sender to the gauge for worn
low-pressurc fuel pump, the low pressure ~ L K I fjlter and
or damaged wires and faulty connectors if the gauge fails
tlie vapor separator tank (Figure 141). The he1 level is
to operate but the sender test correctly. Replace the gauge
regulated in the separator by a float and nccclle m l - ~ eThe
.
if it fails to operate properly and no faults are noted with
system delivers fuel to the separator fiom tlic fuel tank. If
the sender and wiring.
a flooding condition sl~o~ild occur in the separator [he ex-
cess fuel is routed to the tlirottle body.
ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION These components and their operation is similar to
those f o ~ ~ nond carbureted engines. Inspect tlicni as de-
This section contains procedures for testing and trou- scribed under Fuel S w t m in this chapter.
bleshooting the EFI system. The high-pressure systein consists of the vapor separa-
Before troubleshooting the f~ielinjection systeni, make tor tank, high-pressure electric fuel pump (Figure 141)>
sure that potential problems with other systems are elimi- which is located in the separator, liigli-pi-essui-cf k l filter,
nated as described in the Prelin~oiyIi~spectionsection of fuel pressure reg~ilatorand the fuel injectors. The systen~
this chapter. After potential problems ~~nrelated to the file1 delivers fuel to the injectors from the vapor separator
system have been eliminated, check the EFI system diag- tank. Pressi~reis controlled by the regulator, whicli is con-
nostic codes as described in this section bejwe disconnected to the intake mailifold. Fuel pi-ess~ircis reg~ilated
nectmg the batte~y.If no codes are present, yet the relative to intake manifold pressure and excess f~lelis re-
probIeni(s) persist, verify the operation of the fuel supply turned to thc vapor separator.
systein operation and then test the electronic control sys- The engine control system consis~s of tlie ECM?
tem. ~naniforldabsolute pressure (MAP)sensor. intake air tem-
A haphazard approach niay eventually determine the perature (IAT) sensor>cylinder teinperature sensor and the
cause of problems, however, only a systematic approach closed throttle position (CTP) switcli. Signals 1Yom il~ese
can avoid wasted time and the possibility of unnecessary sensors combined with infoi~nationon engine spced allow
parts replacement. Before purchasing parts in an attempt the ECM to compute the amount of i~~jector or-time for
to repair a probleni, remember that most parts suppliers maximum perfor~nanceand economy.
will not accept returns on electrical components. Incorporated into the file1 injeciion systc~n is a
self-diagnostic capability. A dash mounted \mi-ning light
System Operation blinks if it detects a nialf~inctionwit11 the sysieni. See Di-
agnostic Sj~.stemin this chapter for test procedures.
Tlie fuel injection system is divided into the following The fuel injectors (Figure 142) discliargc fuel into the
sections: intake n~anifold ninners and are basically sole-
Page: 108 Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke - 1997-2000 http:/~www.ReadManuals.Com
TROUBLESHOOTING AND TEST 101
Primer bulb
Low pressure
- fuel filter-
\fl L?W pressure
Fuel tank High pressut

fuel filter
Vapor separator
tank
Fuel
injector
\
Idle air
control motor
/
-Silencer
cover
manifold
noid-activated f~1e1valves that open wllen the ECM pro-

vides electric cussent.
Fuel Injector opening time or duration varies on engine and
a~nbientconditions. Fos war~n-upand lligll load condi-
tions the injectors remain open longer. When the engine
seacl~esoperating temperature and while cruising with
light loads the injectors 011-time is reduced.
%h'en compared to carbureter-equipped engines: EFI
syste~nsprovide improved fuel economy, warm-up, throt-
tle response, perfor~nance,reduced emissions and auto-
matic altitude coinpe~isation.
Fuel Supply System (High-Pressure)
Test proceduses for tlie low pressure fuel system are ex-
plained earlier in this chapter ~mderthe Fuel Syskwz sec-
[Ion.
Needle valve
Check for operation of tlie electric fuel pump as de-
scribed in this section ifthe engine refuses to stast. Follow
with t l x f~iel pressure test to determine if the
102 APTER THREE
high-pressure fuel system is operating properly. Test the

remaining fuel supply system coinponents if the fuel pres-
sure is incorrect.
PVAW I N G
Use extreine caidou 1vhe1~working wit11the
.file[ system. Fuel cat7 spray O L ulider
~ high
pressure. A l u ~ ~ yuses required safe& g e w
Never smoke or perfoiw any test aroz117dcu7
ope17 jlmie 01. othel. source of igiiition. F L ~
at~d/orfuel vapor represelzt a serious fire
a i ~ de.xp1osive lzaza~~d.
Electric Fuel Pump Test

5 . Connect the wire llai-ness connector to the vapor sepa-
This test checks for fuel pump operation and the voltage
rator tank.
supply to the pump.
1. Locate the vapor separator tank behind the intake man-
ifold (Figure 143). Place a stethoscope or wooden dowel Fuel Pressure Test
to the body of the vapor separator to listen for fuel pump
operation. This test verifies that fuel is being supplied lo tllc f~iel
2. Have an assistant switch the ignition key switch to the injectors at the required pressure. Make sure the fuel
on position while listening for puinp operation. Do not pump is operating before testing the pressure. While this
stai-t the engine. Switch the ignition OFF for 30 seconds test can verify that the he1 puinp and regulator are operat-
and repeat the test. ing under controlled conditions~it cannot verify that fuel
3. The fuel pump must operate for 2-3 seconds then cease pressure is adequate at all engine operating speeds. I f f ~ ~ e l
each time the ignition key switch is cycled to the ON posi- deliveiy probleins are suspected at cestain engine speeds,
tion. Place the switch in the OFF position for 30 seconds operate [he engine with the gauge attached to the fuel sys-
between each cycle. tem. Leaking fuel lines, restricted passages and blocked
4. Checlc the voltage supply to the pump if it fails to oper- filters can restrict fuel flow and reduce fuel pressure in the
ate as follows: low-pressure and high-pressure systems. If a fuel restric-
Disconnect the top side wire hasness from the vapor tion is present, the fuel pressure may be cossect at slow en-
separator tank. gine speeds, but decline drainatically at higher throttle
Select the 20 VDC scale on the m~~ltimeter. Connect settings. If this symptom is noted, check the t<Iters,
the positive meter test lead to the pink wire terminal antisipl~onvalve, fuel tank pickup and low-pressure fuel
in the engine wire harness connector. Connect the pump as described in this chapter.
negative meter test lead to the bIack/wl~itewire ter- A fuel pressure gauge capable of n~easuringpressures
minal of the connector. up to 3.2 kg/cm2, (46 psi) (or Suzuki past No.
Obsesve the meter while an assistant cycles the igni- 09912-58441), a special adapter (Suzuki part No.
tion key switch to the ON position. The meter 09912-58490) and hose (Suzuki part No. 099 12-5843 I )
should indicate 6-12 volts for 2-3 seconds. If not are required. A dangerous fuel leak can occur if the gauge
perfonn substep d. does not seal properly to the fuel test hose.
Move the positive (+) meter test lead to the battery 1. Disconnect the negative battesy cable.
tennitla1 of the staster relay and repeat step 4c. 2A. On DF40 and DF50 models disconnect the hamess
Check the I5 amp fuse if the voltage reading is as
connector from all three ignition coils.
described in substep c. Check all wiring and con-
nections before replacing a blown fuse. 2B. On a11 other models disconnect the spark plug leads
and connect them to an engine ground.
Test the 30 amp fuse, system relay, neutral switch,
ignition key switch and all wiring if no voltage is 3. Operate the electric starter 10 times in 3 second inter-
found in substep c and the 15 amp fuse is in working vals to relieve the f ~ ~system
el pressure.
order. A defective ECM is indicated if a11 other 4A. On DF40 and DF50 models install the fuel pressure
conlponents test corsectly. gauge as follows:
Page: 110 Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-7OHP Four Stroke - 1997-2000 http://www.ReadManuals.Com
OOTING AND TESTING 103
a. Remove the lower engine cover as described in Re-

placing the Oil Filter in Chapter Four.
b. Loosen the clamps and carefully remove the hose
connecting the high pressure fuel filter to the fitting
at the bottom of the fuel rail (Figure 145). Clean up
High pressure fuel filter any spilled fuel.
/
c. Connect the adapter, hoses and pressure gauge to
Pressure the fuel rain fitting and the high pressure fuel filter
gauge as shown in Figure 145. Install the lower engine
covers.
5. Connect the negative battery cable. Squeeze the primer
bulb to fill the vapor separator tank with fuel. Observe the
pressure gauge while switching the ignition key switch to
the ON position. The gauge must indicate 2.4 kg/cm2 (34
psi.) of fuel pressure.
a. Test the fuel pressure regulator as described in this
chapter if the pressure is less than the specification.
Inspect or check all filters and the vapor separator
tank if the regulator test correctly.
b. Replace the high pressure fuel pump if all other
components test or check correctly.
6. Reconnect the harness connectors to the coils (DF40
and DF50 models) or the spark plug leads on other mod-
@ els. Install the lower engine cover as described in Chapter
Four if removed. Start the engine using a flush/test
RESSURE TES adapter, test tank or with the boat in water. Check for and
DF60 AND DF70 MODE correct fuel leakage before proceeding.
7. Observe the pressure readings while operating the en-
sine at various speeds. The pressure gauge must indicate
approximately 2.4 k g l c d (34 psi.).
a. Test the fuel pressure regulator and the vapor sepa-
rator tank if the fuel pressure remains below the
High pressure specification at all speeds.
fuel filter Fuel r-''
b. Check the fuel supply tank, low pressure pump and
all filters if the fuel pressure remains below the
specification only at higher engine speeds.
c. A faulty vapor separator tank or fuel pump is indi-
cated if low fuel pressure occurs and all other com-
ponents test or check correctly. Inspect or replace
Adapter
these components as described in Chapter Six.
8. Relieve the fuel system pressure as described in Step 3.
pressure gauge, adapters and fittings. Clean up any spilled
a. Loosen the clamps and carefully remove the hose fuel.
connecting the high pressure fuel filter to the a. On DF40 and DF50 models install the hose con-
T-fitting (Figure 144). Clean up any spilled fuel. necting the high pressure fuel filter to the T-fitting
b. Connect the adapter, hoses and pressure gauge to and secure with clamps.
the T-fitting and high pressure fuel filter as shown in b. On DF60 and DF70 models install the hose con-
Figure 144. necting the high pressure fuel filter to the fitting
4B. 0 n ~ ~ and 6 0 DF70 models install the fuel pressure at the bottom of the fuel rail and secure with
gauge as follows: clamps.
104 CHAPTER THREE
10. Connect the negative battery cable. Check for and

correct fuel leakage before operating the engine.
WARNING
Remove the propeller before riiiining the en-
gine to avoid injury Disconnect the spark
plug leads and negative battery cable before
removing and installing the propeller. Stay
clear of the propeller shaft while running an
outboard on a flush/test device.
CA UTION
Never run an outboard without providing
cooling water. Use either a test tank or
flush/test device. Use a test propeller to run
the engine in a test tank.
Fuel Pressure Regulator Test 1. Hand pressure pump

2. Pressure gauge
A hand-operated pressure pump (Suzuki part No. 3. Hose
0982 1-OOO40), pressure gauge (Suzuki part No. 4. Fuel pressure regulator
09940-44120) and special hose (Suzuki part No.
09940-44130) are required to test the operation of the fuel
pressure regulator.
1. Refer to Chapter Six to remove the fuel pressure regu-
lator from the intake manifold. @
2. Connect the pressure pump (1, Figure 146) to the pres- VAPOR SEPARATOR TANK
sure gauge (2). Connect the special hose (3) to the pres- DF40 AND DF50 MODELS
sure gauge (2).
3. Slide the end of the special hose over the fitting on the Fuel
side of the fuel pressure regulator (4, Figure 146).
4. Slowly apply pressure to the pressure regulator and
note the pressure on the gauge the instant that air exits the
fitting at the end of the regulator.
5 . The pressure should be 2.4-2.7 kg/cni2 (34-38 psi).
6. Stop operating the pump and observe the gauge to
check for a pressure drop.
7. Replace the fuel pressure regulator (Chapter Six) if it
fails to operate as described.
Vapor Separator Tank Testing
Checking jbr fuel
A section of fuel hose and a container suitable to hold

fuel is required for this test. Refer to Figure 147 or 148 to
identify the fuel drain fitting and screw for the selected
model.
I . Disconnect the negative battery cable. Locate the va-
por separator tank behind the intake manifold (Figure
143).
2. Refer to Figure 147 or 148 and locate the fuel drain fit-
ting on the bottom of the vapor separator tank.
LESHOOTTNG AND TESTING 105
@
PARATOR TANK
Fuel
inlet
Checking for flooding
This test requires a container suitable for holding fuel

and a section of fuel hose. Refer to Figure 147 or 148 to
identity the fuel drain fitting and screw for the selected
model.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Locate the va-
por separator tank behind the intake manifold (Figure
143).
2. Refer to Figure 147 or 148 and locate the vent hose fit-
ting on the top of the vapor separator tank. Loosen the
clamp and carefully pull the vent hose from the fitting.
3. Slip an appropriately sized section of hose over the
vent fitting. Direct the end of the hose into the container.
4. Gently squeeze the primer bulb while observing the
drain hose. Disassemble and inspect the vapor separator
tank as described in Chapter Six if fuel flows from the
hose while squeezing the primer bulb.
5 . Remove the test hose from the fitting. Slip the vent
3. Slip an appropriately sized section of hose over the
drain fitting. Direct the end of the hose into the container. hose onto the fitting and secure it with a clamp.
Slowly loosen the drain screw located directly above the 6. Connect the negative battery cable.
fuel drain fitting. Allow the fuel to drain into the con-
tainer Diagnostic System
4. Gently squeeze the primer bulb while observing the
drain hose. Disassemble and inspect the vapor separator NOTE
Hich-power electrical equipment such as
tank as described in Chapter Six if the fuel is contami-
stereos and communication radios may in-
nated or does not flow from the drain fitting. Inspect the te&w with the electronicfuel injection sys-
o w pressure fuel pump and filter if no defects are found in tern. Switch these devices off i f trouble is
the vapor separator tank. detected with the engine. Avoid using these
5. Securely tighten the drain screw and remove the hose devices while the engine is running if nor-
from the fuel drain fitting. Squeeze the primer bulb until it nial engine operation resumes with these
is firm. Check for fuel leakage from the drain fitting. Cor- devices switched off.'
rect fuel leaks before returning the engine to service. If the ECM detects a malfunction, the dash-mounted
6. Connect the negative battery cable. check engine light (Figure 149) blinks and the warning
106 CHAPTER THREE
horn sounds. The ECM provides a substitute value for the

defective component. This feature allows the engine to
continue to operate, although at a reduced capacity. It is
possible that the substitute value may match the actual op-
erating conditions, allowing the engine to run normally
when the conditions equal the substitute value.
After a malfunction has been corrected the warning sys-
tem operation returns to normal.
The check engine light is also used to read the diagnos-
tic codes (Table 17). Identify codes by observing the Code2 Code 1 Code2 Code 1
flashing light sequence. Refer to the following example
and Figure 150 for a description of how to interpret the
flashing signals.
A short duration light ON followed by a short duration
light OFF then a short duration ON indicates a 2 for the
first digit of the code. The second digit of the code is dis-
played after a short OFF period. Continuing with the ex-
ample in Figure 150, a short light ON indicates a 1, or a
code of 2 1. A longer duration light OFF period separates
individual stored codes, if there are any. Otherwise the
first code repeats. If more than one code is stored, they are
repeated in numerical order.
Read the diagnostic codes as follows:
1 . Turn the key switch to the ON position. Do not start the
engine.
2. Read the flashing lights to determine the codes. Record
all codes. Switch the ignition OFF.
3. Refer to Table 17 to determine the defective compo-
nent or system.
4. Test the indicated sensor or ignition system coinpo-
nents as described in this chapter. Do not over look the
possibility that the wiringlconnectors may be the source intake manifold or fuel rail on the rear and port side of the
of a malfunction. power head.
5. Disconnect the battery for 3 minutes or longer to clear 1. Place the outboard motor in a test tank, in the water or
the trouble codes from the engine control module. attach a flush device.
6. Repeat this test sequence after repairing or replacing
the faulty component to ensure a correct diagnosis. 2. Start the engine and run it at idle speed.
3. Place a stethoscope or long screwdriver against the
NOTE
Earlier DF60 and DF70 models are not body of each fuel injector (Figure 151).If a screwdriver is
equipped with an exhaust manifold temper- used, place the handle to your ear.
ature sensor. I f a n ECM designed for models 4. A clicking noise should be heard from each injector in-
with an exhaust manifold temperature sen-
dicating that it is opening. If no clicking noise is heard or
sor is installed on an earlier model, Code 15
will be set. if there is a noticeably different noise from an individual
injector, test the injector resistance as described in the
next section and the wiring connections between the in-
Fuel Injector Operation Test jector and ECM. If the resistance is within specification.
and the connections are in good condition, install a known
Check fuel injector operation using a mechanic's good injector. If the replacement injector fails to operate, a
stethoscope or long screwdriver to amplify the noise pro- defective wiring harness between the injector and ECM or
duced by each injector. The injectors are mounted to the a defective ECM is indicated.
4. Replace the injector if the n~easuredresistance exceeds
the specification in Table 20.
5. Align the tabs on the connector with the slot while con-
necting the harness to the injector. Repeat the resistance
test for the remaining injectors.
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)

Sensor Testing
The main signal to the ECM for determining injector

opening time is the intake manifold pressure signal from
the MAP sensor. For the sensor to function correctly, the
vacuum hose from the manifold to the sensor must be se-
curely attached and not leaking pressure. Make sure the
hose is in good condition.
Excessive exhaust smoke, spark plug fouling and gen-
eral poor performance can result from the incorrect
airlfuel mixture caused by a defective MAP sensor signal.
Check the operation of the MAP sensor by reading the
diagnostic codes as described in Diagnostic Trouble
Codes. Make sure the wiring and connections are in good
condition before replacing the sensor.
Intake Air Temperature (IAT)

Sensor Test
The IAT sensor provides a signal to the ECM indicating

the temperature of the incoming air. The ECM then ad-
justs the injector on time to match the fuel requirements to
the conditions.
Excessive exhaust smoke, spark plug fouling and gen-
airifuel mixture caused by a defective IAT signal.
Fuel Injector Resistance Test Check the operation of the IAT sensor by reading the di-
agnostic codes as described in Diagnostic System. If a
trouble code is present, test the sensor as follows:
This test measures the resistance of the winding within
the injector. A correct resistance reading does not indicate 1. Remove the 1AT sensor from the silencer cover as de-
the injector is functional. An internal mechanical defect, scribed in Chapter Six.
foreign material or deposits can prevent the injector from 2. Select the ohm function on the digital multimeter. Con-
operating. Injector removal is not required for this test. nect the meter test leads to the individual terminals of the
sensor connector.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to the wir-
3. Suspend the sensor in a container of water (Figure
ing diagrams at the end of the manual to identify the wires
153).
leading to the injectors. Trace the wires to the injectors on
the rear and port side of the power head. 4. Place a thermometer (Figure 153) in the container next
to the sensor. Note the temperature after allowing a few
2. Push in on the wire clip and carefully pull the wire har- n~inutesfor the thermometer to stabilize.
ness connector from the top injector. 5. Refer to Table 21 to determine the specified testing
3. Set the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Touch the meter temperatures. Heat or cool the water to the listed tempera-
test leads to the individual terminals on the injector (Fig- tures. Do not allow the water to boil. Record the resistance
ure 152). reading at each temperature.
108 CHAPTER THRE
6. Compare the resistance readings and temperatures

with the specifications in Table 21. Replace the sensor if
any readings are incorrect.
7. A faulty wire, connector or ECM is indicated if an IAT
sensor code continues yet no fault is found with the sen-
sor.
8. Install the sensor to the silencer cover as described in
Chapter Six.
Cylinder Temperature Sensor Test
The cylinder temperature sensor provides a signal to the

ECM indicating engine temperature.
The ECM then adjusts the injector opening time to
match the fuel requirement to the conditions.
Excessive exhaust smoke, spark plug fouling and gen- switch body
aidfuel mixture caused by a defective cylinder tempera-
ture sensor signal.
Check the operation of the cylinder temperature sensor
by reading the diagnostic codes as described in Diciguos-
tic System. The sensor is similar to the sensor on carbure- test lead to an engine ground (Figure 154). Connect the
tor equipped models. Refer to the cylinder and exhaust negative meter test lead to the wire terminal on the switch.
manifold temperature sensor test instructions in the Warn- 3. Observe the meter while alternately opening and clos-
ing System section of this chapter. ing the throttle. The switch should have continuity with
the throttle closed and no continuity when the throttle is
Closed Throttle Position (CTP) Switch just opened. Replace the throttle body (Chapter Six) if the
switch does not operate as described.
The closed throttle position switch provides a signal to 4. Connect the wire harness to the switch. Route all wires
the ECM indicating if the throttle is in the closed position. to avoid interference. Connect the negative battery cable.
With the throttle in the closed position, the ECM stabilizes
the engine speed by actuating the idle air control (IAC)
motor and altering the ignition timing. Advancing the Neutral Switch Test
throttle causes the ECM to increase fuel delivery and
spark advancement. This feature dramatically improves The neutral switch provides input to the engine control
throttle response. module as the engine is shifted into or out of neutral gear.
Fuel injectors and ignition system operation is interrupted
A faulty CTP position switch generally results in hesita-
tion during rapid throttle advancement. Other symptoms by the engine control module during attempts to start the
engine if in gear.
include a rough or unstable idle or high idle speed.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Locate the A fault with this switch can cause a no-start condition if
throttle body (Figure 154) on the front and port side ofthe in neutral or allow the engine to start in gear.
power head. Trace the light greedred wire to the switch 1 . Disconnect the negative battery cable.
location on the throttle body. 2 Rcmo\ e the lower engine cover as d e w bed in Re-
a. On DF40 and DF50 models the switch is mounted placing the Oil Filter in Chapter Four. Locate the neutral
to the top side of the throttle body. Trace the indi- switch (Figure 155) on the lower starboard side of the
cated wire colors to wire harness connection to the powei head and next to the shift linkage.
switch. 3. Set the multimeter to the Rxl scale. Carefully discon-
b. On DF60 and DF70 models the switch is mounted nect the neutral switch wire harness from the engine wire
to the bottom side of the throttle body. harness. Connect the positive meter test lead to the yel-
2. Disconnect the harness from the switch. Calibrate a lowlgieen wire terminal of the switch. Connect the nega-
multimeter lo the R x 1 scale. Connect the positive meter tive meter test lead to the brown wire terminal.
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
The ECM controls the idle speed using the idle air con-
trol valve. The IAC valve motor varies air flowing into a
dedicated passage in the intake manifold.
Symptoms of a faulty IAC valve include stalling when
the engine is shifted into gear, too slow or rough idle or
excessively high idle speed. The engine usually performs
correctly at higher speeds.
Check the operation of the motor by reading the diag-
nostic codes as described in Diagnostic System. If a trou-
ble code is present, test the resistance of the motor as
follows:
2. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the back of the manual
to identify the wire colors used for the IAC valve. Trace
4. Place the remote control handle in neutral. The switch the indicated wires to the IAC valve at the front and star-
should have continuity. board side of the intake manifold. Carefully disconnect
5. Place the remote control in the forward then reverse the engine wire harness from the IAC valve.
gear positions while observing the meter readings. The 3. Set the digital multimeter to the ohms scale indicated
switch should have no continuity with the engine shifted in Table 19.
to either forward or reverse. 4. Connect the meter test leads to the individual terminals
6. Replace the neutral switch as describe in Chapter of the idle air control motor. Replace the IAC valve
Seven if incorrect operation is indicated. (Chapter Six) if the measured resistance is not within the
7. Connect the engine wire harness to the neutral switch specification in Table 19.
harness connector. Route the wires to avoid interference. 5. Connect the engine wire harness to the IAC valve.
Install the lower engine covers. Connect the negative bat- Route the wires to avoid interference. Connect the nega-
tery cable. tive battery cable.
TABLE 1 STARTING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING

Symptom Possible causes Corrective action
Starter does not energize Engine not in neutral gear Shift into neutral gear
Weak or discharged battery Fully charge and test the battery
Dirty or corroded battery Thoroughly clean battery terminals
termimals
Faulty neutral only start Test neutral only start switch
switch
Faulty electric starter switch Test electric starter switch
Faulty ignition switch Test ignition switch
Faulty starter relay Test starter relay
Loose or dirty wire connection Clean and tighten starter wire
connections
Faulty electric starter Repair the electric starter
(continued)
110 CHAPTER THRE
TABLE 1 STARTING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (continued!

----
Starter engages flywheel Weak or discharged battery Fully charge and test the battery
(flywheel rotates slowly) Dirty or corroded battery Thoroughly clean battery terminals
termimals
Loose or dirty wire connections Clean and tighten starter wire
connections
Engine is in gear Correct improper linkage
adjustment
Internal power head damage Inspect power head for damage
Internal gearcase damage Inspect gearcase lubricant for debris
Electric starter engages Weak or discharged battery Fully charge and test the battery
(flywheel does not rotate) Dirty or corroded battery Thoroughly clean battery terminals
terminals
Loose or dirty wire connections Clean and tighten starter wire
connections
Engine is in gear Correct improper linkage adjustment
Water in the cylinder(s) Inspect spark plug(s) for water
contamination
Oil in the cylinder(s) Inspect spark plugs for oil
contamination
Damaged starter drive gear Inspect starter drive gear
Damaged flywheel gear teeth Inspect flywheel gear teeth
Seized power head Inspect power head for damage
Seized gearcase Inspect gearcase lubricant fordebris
Improper valve timing or Check valve timing and adjustment
adjustment
Electric starter Dirty or dry starter drive gear Clean and lubricate starter drive
(noisy operation) gear
Damaged starter drive gear Inspect starter drive gear
teeth
Damaged or corroded flywheel Inspect flywheel drive gear teeth
gear
Loose starter mounting bolt(s) Tighten starter mounting bolt(s)
Worn or dry starter bushing(s) Repair electric starter
Rewind starter Worn or damaged drive pawl Replace the drive pawl
(does not engage flywheel) Broken or damaged friction Repair the friction spring
spring
Dry or binding rewind Repair the rewind starter
mechanism
Rewind starter Engine is in gear Shift engine into neutral
(engages the flywheel Misadjusted neutral only start Adjust the mechanism
but does not rotate) mechanism
Damaged neutral only start Repair the rewind starter
mechanism
Worn or damaged rewind Repair the rewind starter
mechanism
Frayed starter rope Replace the starter rope
Corroded or binding starter Repair the rewind starter
sheave
Water in the cylinders Inspect the spark plug(s) for water
contamination
Oil in the cylinders Inspect the spark plug(s) for oil
contamination
Improper valve timing or Check valve timing and adjustment
adjustment
seized or damaged power head Inspect power head for damage
Seized or damaged gearcase Inspect gearcase lubricant for
debris
(continued)
TROUBLESHOOTING AND TESTING Ill
Rewind starter Worn or frayed starter rope Replace starter rope

(rope does not rewind) Broken or damaged rewind Replace rewind spring
spring
Dry, corroded or damaged rewind Repair rewind starter
mechanism
TABLE 2 FUEL SYSTEM T

Engine does not start Closed fuel tank vent Open the fuel tank vent
Old or contaminated fuel Provide the engine with fresh fuel
Disconnected fuel hose Connect fuel hose
Faulty primer bulb Check the primer bulb
Choke valve not operating Check choke valve operation
Air or fuel leaks in hose fittings Inspect hose fittings for leakage
Blocked fuel filter Inspect the filter for contaminants
Stuck carburetor inlet needle Repair the carburetor(s)
Improper float level adjustment Repair the carburetor(s)
Blocked carburetor passages Repair the carburetor(s)
Faulty low pressure fuel pump Check low pressure pump
Low battery voltage Check battery and charging system
(EFI models)
Faulty system relay Check the system relay
(EFI models)
Open fuel pump fuse Check fuel pump fuse
(EFI models)
Faulty electric fuel pump Check fuel system pressure
(EFI models)
Faulty fuel pressure regulator Check fuel pressure regulator
(EFI models)
Faulty idle air control valve Check idle air control valve
(EFI models)
Faulty engine temperature sensor Check the engine temperature
(EFI models)
Faulty air temperature sensor Check air temperature sensor
(EFI models)
Faulty MAP sensor Check MAP sensor
(EFI models)
Faulty throttle position switch Check throttle position switch
(EFI models)
Faulty fuel injector (EFI models) Check fuel injector(s)
Faulty engine control module Check engine control module
(EFI models)
Stalls or runs rough at idle Old or contaminated fuel Provide the engine with fresh fuel
Improper idle speed adjustment Adjust idle speed
Closed or blocked fuel tank vent Open or clear vent
Blocked carburetor passages Repair carburetor(s)
Flooding carburetor Check for carburetor flooding
Faulty primer bulb Check the primer bulb
Air or fuel leaks at hose fittings Inspect hose fittings for leakage
Blocked fuel filter Inspect the filter for contaminants
Faulty low pressure fuel pump Check low pressure pump
Sticking choke valve Check choke valve operation
Low battery voltage (EFI models) Check battery and charging system
Flooding vapor separator tank Check vapor separator tank
(EFI models)
(continued)
CHAPTER THREE
TABLE 2 FUEL SYSTEM TROU LESHOOTING (continued)

Stalls or runs rough at idle Faulty idle air control valve Check idle air control valve
(continued) (EFI models)
Faulty system relay (EFI models) Check the system relay
(EFI models)
Faulty engine temperature sensor Check the sensor
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
Faulty electric fuel pump Check fuel system pressure
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
Idle speed too high Improper idle speed adjustment Adjust idle speed
Improper throttle linkage Adjust throttle linkages
adjustment
Binding throttle linkage Check linkage
Faulty idle air control valve Check idle air control valve
(EFI models)
Faulty engine temperature Check sensor
sensor
Hesitation during acceleration Old or contaminated fuel Supply the engine with fresh fuel
Faulty low pressure fuel pump Check low pressure fuel pump
Faulty accelerator pump Repair carburetor(s)
Blocked fuel filter Inspect the filter(s) for
contaminants
Closed or blocked fuel tank vent Open or clear tank vent
Flooding carburetor Check for carburetor flooding
Improper valve timing Check valve timing
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
Electric fuel pump failure Check fuel system pressure
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
Misfire or poor high speed Old or contaminated fuel Supply the engine with fresh fuel
performance Faulty low pressure fuel pump Check low pressure fuel pump
Misadjusted throttle linkage Adjust throttle linkage
(continued)
TABLE 2 FUEL SYSTE LESHOOTING (continued)

Misfire or poor high speed Blocked carburetor passages Repair carburetor(s)
performance Blocked fuel filter(s) Inspect the filter(s) for
(continued) contaminants
Closed or blocked fuel tank vent Open or clear vent
Improper valve timing Check valve timing
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
Electric fuel pump failure Check fuel system pressure
(EF1 models)
(EFI models)
Excessive exhaust smoke Flooding carburetor Check for carburetor flooding
Improper float level Repair carburetor(s)
Leaking accelerator pump Repair carburetor(s)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
(EFI models)
TABLE 3 IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLE

Engine does not start Lanyard switch activated Check lanyard switch
Faulty neutral only start switch Test neutral only start switch
Fouled spark plug(s) Check or replace spark plug(s)
Faulty spark plug lead Test spark plug lead
Faulty spark plug cap Test spark plug cap
Shorted stop circuit Test for shorted stop circuit
Faulty system relay (EFI models) Test the system relay
Failed harness capacitor Test the harness capacitor
(EFI models)
Faulty ignition charge coil Test ignition charge coil
Faulty pulser coil Test pulser coil
Faulty crankshaft position Test crankshaft position sensor(s)
sensor(s)
Faulty camshaft position sensor Test camshaft position sensor
(continued)
CHAPTER THREE
TABLE 3 IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING (continued)

Svmvtom Possible causes Corrective action
Engine does not start (continued) Faulty ignition coil Test ignition coil
Faulty CDI unit Check CDI unit
(EFI models)
Stalls or runs rough at idle Fouled spark plug(s) Check or replace spark plug(s)
Partially shorted stop circuit Test for shorted stop circuit
Low battery voltage (EFI models) Check battery and charging
system
Faulty system relay (EFI models) Test the system relay
Failed harness capacitor Test the harness capacitor
(EFI models)
sensor(s)
Faulty camshaft position sensor Test camshaft position
sensor
Faulty ignition coil Test ignition coil
(EFI models)
Idle speed too high Faulty engine temperature sensor Test engine temperature
sensor
Faulty crankshaft position sensor Test crankshaft position
sensor
Faulty CDI unit Check low speed timing
(Chapter Five)
Faulty engine control module Check low speed timing (Chapter Five)
(EFI models)
Misfire or poor high speed Engine reaching rev limit Check full speed engine rpm
performance Fouled spark plug(s) Check or replace spark plug(s)
Partially shorted stop circuit Test for shorted stop circuit
sensor(s)
Faulty camshaft position sensor Test camshaft position sensor
Faulty ignition coil Test ignition coil
(EFI models)
TABLE 4 MODEL YEAR CODES

Letter code Year
V 1997
W 1998
X 1999
Y 2000
TABLE 5 ENGINE CONFIGURATION CODES

Letter code Characteristic
S 381.0 mm (15.0 in.) Drive shaft length (short)

L 508.0 mm (20.0 in.) Drive shaft length (long)
X 635.0 mm (25.0 in.) Drive shaft length (extra long)
M Manual start, tiller control
E Electric start, tiller control
R Remote control, electric start
H Tiller control
QH Tiller control, gas assist tilt
G Counter rotation gearcase
T Power trim and tilt system
N High thrust propeller
TABLE 6 IGNITION CHARGE COIL

Model Positive (+) test lead Negative (-) test lead Resistance (ohms)
DF9.9, DF15 Redwhite Blacklred 368-552*
DF25, DF30 White Green 10.1-15.1*
Brown Green 10.1-15.1*
* Measured at 20ÂC (68O F)
TABLE 7 PULSER COIL

1 Model Positive (+) test lead Negative (-) test lead Resistance (ohms) 1
DF9.9, DF15 Whitelgreen Black 168-252* -
* Measured at 20' C (68' F)
TABLE 8 CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
DF25, DF30
No. 1 Red Black 148-222*
No. 2 Redlwhite Whitelblack 148-222*
DF40, DF50
No. 1 Redlblack Blacklwhite 168-252*
No. 2 Whitelblack BlacWwhite 168-252*
No. 3 Redlwhite BlacWwhite 168-252*
DF60, DF70
No. 1 Redlblack Black 168-252*
No. 2 Whitelblack Black 168-252*
* Measured at 20' C (6E0F)
TABLE 9 CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
DF40, DF50 Orangelgreen Blacklwhite 168-252*

DF60, DF70 Orangelgreen Black 168-252*
* Measured at 68" F (20" C)
116 CHAPTER THREE
TABLE 10 IGNITION COIL (PRIMARY WINDING)

DF9.9, DF15 Orange Blacklwhite 0.07-0.1 1*
DF25, DF30 White Black 0.1 7-0.23*
DF40, DF50
No. 1 Orange Gray 1.9-2.5*
No. 2 Blue Gray 1.9-29
No. 3 Green Gray 1.9-2.5*
DF60, DF70
No. 1 and No. 4 Orange Gray 1.9-2.5*
No. 2 and No. 3 Blue Gray 1.9-2.5*
Measured at 68' F (20" C)
TABLE 11 IGNITION COIL [SECONDARY WINDING)

DF9.9, DF15 No. 1 spark plug lead No. 2 spark plug lead 3280-4.900*
DF25, DF30 Spark plug lead Black 3300-5000*
DF40, DF50 Gray Spark plug cap 8100-1 1,l OO*
DF60, DF70 No. 1 spark plug cap No. 4 spark plug cap 16,000-28,000
No. 2 spark plug cap No. 3 spark plug cap 15,000-26,000
* Measured at 68' F (20' C)
TABLE 12 SPARK PLUG CAP

Model Resistance (ohms)
DF9.9, DF15 8000-12,O0Oi
DF25, DF30 4000-6000*
* Measured at 68O F (20" C)
TABLE 13 STARTER RELAY

DF9.9, DF15 Yellowlgreen Black 3.5-5.1 *
DF25, DF30
DF40, DF50 Yellowlgreen Ground 3.5-5.1*
DF60, DF70 Yellowlgreen Black 3.5-5.1*
Measured at 68" F (20" C)
TABLE 14 BATTERY CHARGE COIL

Model Positive (+) test lead Negative (-) test lead Resistance (ohm)
DF9.9, DF15
Manual start Redlyellow Yellow 0.24-0.36*
Red Yellow 0.1 0-0.17*
Electric start Red Yellow 0.24-0.36*
DF25, DF30
Manual start Red Yellow 0.20-0.30*
Electric start Red Yellow 0.27-0.40*
DF40, DF50 White White 0.56-0.84*
DF60, DF70 Yellow Yellow 0.3-0.5*
* Measured at 68' F (20' C)
TABLE 15 RECTIFIERIREGULATOR
ode! Positive (+) test lead Negative (-) test lead Meter reading
DF9.9, DF15 Black White Infinity
(with rectifier) Black Yellow Continuity
Black Red Continuity
White Black Infinity
White Yellow Infinity
White Red Infinity
Yellow Black Infinity
Yellow White Continuity
Yellow Red Infinity
Red Black Infinity
Red White Continuity
Red Yellow Infinity
DF9.9, DF15, DF25, Black White Infinity
DF30 (with rectifier1 Black Yellow Infinity
regulator) Black Red Infinity
White Black 3000 ohms
White Yellow 2600 ohms
White Red 2800 ohms
Yellow Black 2500 ohms
Yellow White Infinity
Yellow Red Infinity
Red Black 2500 ohms
Red White Infinity
Red Yellow Infinity
Black White 9-14 ohms
Black Yellow 1 6-9 ohms
White Black Infinity
White Yellow 1 Infinity
Yellow 1 Black Infinity
Yellow 1 White 7-11 ohms
Yellow 1 Yellow 2 Infinity
Yellow 2 White 8-13 ohms
Yellow 2 Yellow 1 infinity
Yellow 3 White 7.5-1 1.5 ohms
Black White 5 ohms
Black Yellow 1 0.8 ohms
White Black 20-50 ohms
White Yellow 1 20-50 ohms
Yellow 1 Black 20-50 ohms
Yellow 1 White 0.8 ohms
Yellow 1 Yellow 2 20-50 ohms
Yellow 2 Black 20-50 ohms
(continued)
118 CHAPTER THREE
TABLE 15 RECTIFIERIREGULATOR (continued)

Model Positive (+) test lead Negative (-1 test lead Meter reading
DF60,DF70 Yellow 2 Yellow 3 20-50ohms
(continued) Yellow 3 Black 20-50ohms
Yellow 3 Yellow 1 20-50ohms
Yellow 3 Yellow 2 20-50ohms
*Measured at 68' F (20' C)
TABLE 16 CHOKE SOLENOID
TABLE 17 EFI DIAGNOSTIC CODES

-
Code Failure
11 Charging system malfunction

14 Cylinder temperature sensor
15 Exhaust manifold temperature sensor
22 Closed throttle position switch
23 Intake air temperature sensor
24 Camshaft position sensor
31 Idle air control valve
32 MAP sensor hose
34 MAP sensor
42 Crankshaft position sensor
TABLE 19 IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE

1 Model Positive (+) test lead
-
Negative (-1 test lead Resistance (ohms)
DF40,DF50 BlacWred Gray 21.5-32.3*
DF60,DF70 BlacWred Gray 4.8-7.2*
Measured at 68O F (20' C)
TABLE 20 FUEL INJECTOR

ode! Positive (+) test lead Negative (-) test lead Resistance (ohms)
DF40,DF50
No. 1 Orangelblack Gray 11-16.5*
No. 2 BlacWyellow Gray 1 1 -16.5*
No. 3 Redlwhite Gray 1 1 -16.5*
(continued)
TABLE 20 FUEL INJECTOR (continued)

ode! Positive (+) test lead Negative (-) test lead Resistance (ohms)
DF60, DF70
No. 1 Orangelblack Gray 11-16.6*
No. 2 Black/yellow Gray 11-16.6*
No. 3 Redlwhite Gray 11-16.6*
No. 4 Light green Gray 11-16.6*
*Measured at 68' F (20' C)
TABLE 21 INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR

Model Temperature Resistance (ohms)
TABLE 22 CYLINDER TEMPERATURE SENSOR

Model Temperature Resistance (ohms)
TABLE 23 EXHAUST MANIFOLD TEMPERATURE SENSOR

Temperature Resistance (ohms) 1
All EFI Models 32" F (0' C) 5300-6600
77ÂF (25' C) 1800-2300
122" F (50ÂC) 730-960
135O F (75O C) 330-450
TABLE 24 CYLINDER COMPRESSION SPECIFICATIONS

kPa kg/cm2 psi 1
120 CHAPTER THREE
TABLE 25 OIL PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS

Model kPa kg/cm2 psi
DF9.9, DF15
@ 3000 rpm 200-500 2-5 28-71
DF25, DF30
@ 3000 rpm 392-490 4-5 57-71
DF40, DF50
@ 4000 rpm 300-380 3-3.8 43-54
DF60, DF70
@ 3000 rpm 420-290 4.2-4.9 26-70
TABLE 26 THERMOSTAT OPENING SPECIFICATIONS

--
Model Opening temperature

DF9.9, DT15, DF25, DF30 136-144' F (58-62' C)
DF40, DF50 126-134' F (48-52' C)
DF60, DF70 126-134' F (48-52O C)
TABLE 27 MAXIMUM ENGINE SPEED SPECIFICATIONS

Model Maximum engine speed (rpm) Rev-limiter speed (rpm)
DF9.9 4500-5500 6500
DF15 5400-6000 6500
DF25 5000-5600 6300
DF30 5500-6100 6500
DF40 5200-5800 6500
DF50 5900-6500 7000
DF60 4700-5300 6500
DF70 5200-5900 6500
Chapter four
Lubrication, Maintenance and Tune-up
This chapter covers lubrication maintenance and Pay particular attention to the items covered in Before
tune-up procedures. It is divided into the following sec- and After Each Use in this chapter. Frequent attention to
tions: these items may identify potential problems before signif-
1. Before and after each use. icant engine damage occurs.
2. Power head maintenance.
3. Midsection maintenance. BEFORE AND AFTER EACH USE
4. Gearcase maintenance.
5. Storage preparation and re-commissioning. Table 1 lists the checks, inspection and maintenance re-
quired before and after operating the outboard. Refer to
6. Submersion
the specific instructions provided in this section.
7. Corrosion prevention maintenance.
8. Tune-up.
Table 1 at the end of this chapter and the Quick Refer- Checking the Engine Oil Level and Condition
ence Date section at the front of the manual list the main-
CA UTION
tenance item and interval for all engine components and
Never start the engine with a low or high oil
systems. Always check and/or inspect the items listed in level. Low oil level or overfilling can result
Table 1 to help ensure safe operation and maximum en- in inadequate power head lubrication.
gine longevity. Tables 2-6 provide capacities and specifi-
cations. Always check the oil level before and after each use.
If maintenance is neglected, performance, reliability Accurate oil level measurements are only possible if the
and longevity are substantially reduced. engine is switched off for 30 minutes or more and the en-
122 AFTER FOUR
Oil dipstick f
gine is in a vertical position (Figure 1). Oil dipstick and

oil fill cap locations vary by model. Refer to the following
information to locate these components.
On DF9.9 and DF15 models, the oil dipstick is located
on the upper rear and starboard side of the power head
(Figure 2). The oil fill cap is located on the upper rear and
starboard side of the rock arm cover.
On DF25 and DF30 models, the oil dipstick is located
on the port side of the power head (Figure 3). The oil fill
cap is located on the top and starboard side of the cylinder
head.
on the lower port side of the power head (Figure 4). The
oil fill cap is located on top of the rocker arm cover.
or! the lower rear and port side of the power head (Figure
5). The oil fill cap is located on the rear of the rocker arm
cover.
1. Position the engine vertically (Figure 1) with the igni-
tion switched off.
2. Refer to Figures 2-5 and locate the oil dipstick. 0ii dipstick
3. Carefully pull the oil dipstick from the engine and

wipe it clean.
4. Insert and fully seat the dipstick into its opening.
5. Carefully pull the dipstick from the engine and note the 6. Inspect the oil on the dipstick for water, a milky ap-
oil level line. pearance or significant fuel odor. Refer to Chapter Three
a. On DF40 and DF50 models the oil level should be if any of these conditions occur.
at or slightly below the full level line (Figure 6). 7. Remove the oil fill cap (Figures 2-5) if low oil level is
b. On all other models the correct oil level line should indicated. Add a small amount of oil and rccheck the oil
be at or slightly below the full level line (Figure 6). level. Continue until the oil level just reaches or is slightly
MAINTENANCE, LUBRICATION AND TU 123
@ DF40 AND DF50 MODEL

All other models
DF40 and DF50 models A

Full
level
Low
level
level
line
line
Oil dipstick
Fuel or Oil Leakage Inspection
WARNING
Use extreme caution if working with or
around fuel. Never smoke around fuel or
@ DF60 AND DF70 MOD
fuel vapors. Ensure no sparks,flame or igni-
tion source is present in the work area.
Flame or sparks can ignite fuel or fuel w-
p u s and result in fire or explosion.
Perform a quick visual inspection for fuel or oil leakage

prior to starting the engine. Pump the primer bulb to fill
the fuel system hoses. Inspect the fuel hoses from the fuel
tank to the carburetor or vapor separator tank. Refer to
Chapter Six to determine the fuel system hose routing and
connection points. If fuel leakage is noted, tighten clamps
or replace defective hoses.
Visually inspect the power head and the inner part of the
lower engine cover for the presence of oil residue. Wipe
the power head with a clean white shop towel to help iden-
tify the point of leakage. Most oil leakage occurs at the
rocker arm cover (Figure 7) or oil filter mounting area
(Figure 8). Tighten loose fastenerslfilters or replace hoses
I
Oil dipstick oil fill cap and gaskets as required to correct the oil leakage before
operating the engine.
Engine Mounting Hardware Inspection

below the full level line. Do not overfill the engine with
DF9.9, DF15, DF25 and DF30 models are equipped
oil. Drain excess oil from the engine as described in this
with screw type clamps for the upper engine mounting
chapter.
bolts (Figure 9). Securely tighten both clamp screws bc-
8. Insert the oil dipstick fully into its opening. Install the fore operating the engine. Bolts and nuts secure the lower
oil fill cap. Rotate the oil fill cap until locked into position. end of the clamp bracket on these models. All other mod-
124 CHAPTER FOUR
els use bolts and nuts on both the upper and lower ends of
the clamp brackets. Ensure all mounting bolts are tight be-
fore operating the engine.
Propeller Inspection
CA UTION
Never operate the engine with significant
propeller damage. Damage to the propeller
can result in a significant decrease in per-
fornzance, increased wearfrom excessive vi-
bration, Z O I I ~ S handling
I ~ characteristics
and /or excessive engine speed.
Inspect the propeller for bent, dinged or missing blade

sections before and after operating the engine. Dress
small imperfections using a suitable file. Avoid removing
too much material or an imbalance can occur. Straighten
small bends with locking type pliers. Have the propeller
repaired at a reputable propeller repair shop if significant
damage (Figure 10) is noted.
Cooling System Flush
NOTE
Inspect the cooling system forproper opera-
tion eveiy time the engine is run. A stream of
water exitingfrom the rear of the lower en-
gine cover indicates that the water pump is
operating. Never run the engine if it over- the engine switched off Careful!} remove
heats or i f the water stream is absent. the center plug and thread a common water
hose into the plug opening R u n f r e h u t e r
NOTE through the passages until the exiting water
DF60 and DF70 models are equipped with is clear
a freshwaterflush port. This port is located
on the rear port side of the lower engine
cover (Figure 11). It allows f o r j l ~ ~ s l ~ the
ing CA UTION
power head cooling passages on engines Never run the engine while using the fresh-
moored in the water. Use this port only with water flush port with the engine out o f the
MAINTENANCE, LUBRICATION AND TUNE-UP 125
Flush test adapter

@ DF6O AND DF70 MODELS
\ ,Oil drain plug
1 Gasket
system components frequently if operating the engine un-

der these conditions.
Flush the cooling system using a standard flush test
adapter (Figure 12). Small engines can be flushed using a
suitable test tank filled with freshwater. DF9.9 and DF15
models have the water inlet located below the
anti-ventilation plate (Figure 13). They require a different
type flush test adapter.
1A. If using a test tank perform the following:
a. Place the engine into the test tank. Ensure the water
level is above the gearcase water inlet.
b. Securely tighten the engine mounting bolts before
starting the engine.
IB. If using a flush test adapter perform the following:
a. Attach the flush test adapter (Figure 12 or 13) to the
gearcase.
b. Attach the water hose to the flush test adapter.
c. Route the water hose to avoid contact with the pro-
peller. Secure the hose with tie straps as required.
d. Turn the water on. Position the adapter cup directly
over the water inlet(s).
2. Start the engine and run it at fast idle in neutral until it
water. The water pump components will fail
as the port does not provide them with ade- reaches normal operating temperature.
quate water. 3. Continue to run the engine for a minimum of 10 min-
utes or until the water exiting the engine is clear. Monitor
Flush the cooling system after running the engine to the engine temperature. Stop the engine immediately if
help prevent corrosion and deposit buildup in the cooling steam or overheating occurs.
system passages. Operating the engine in salt, polluted or 4. Throttle the engine back to idle for a few minutes then
silt and sand laden water increases the need to flush the stop the engine. Remove the flush adapter or remove the
cooling system. Running the engine in silt or sand laden engine from the test tank.
water substantially reduces the life of the water pump 5. Place the engine in the vertical position (Figure 1) to
components. Inspect the water pump and other cooling drain the water from the cooling system.
126 CHAPTER FOUR
ROUTINE POWER HEAD MAINTENANCE
Maintenance to the power head involves changing the DF9.9, DF15 AND
engine oil and filter, inspecting various power head com-
ponents and lubricating the throttle and shift linkage.
I DF25 MODELS
Changing the Engine Oil
Performing regular oil changes is the most effective

way to ensure engine durability. All Suzuki 4-stroke out-
boards require SAE 10W-40 weight oil with and API
classification, SH or SJ. Make sure the oil meets this re-
quirement.
WARNING
Never use 2-stroke outboard engine oil in a
4-stroke outboard. Using the wrong type of
oil will cause sigiiificant engine wear and
possib(1)power head failure.
1. Place the engine in the vertical position (Figure 1).

2. Refer to the oil drain plug location for the selected &-) DWO AND DF50 MODEL
model:
a. On DF9.9, DF15, DF25 and DF30 models, the plug
is located on the starboard side lower engine cover
(Figure 14).
b. On DF40 and DF50 models, the plug is located on
the port side lower engine cover (Figure 15).
c. On DF60 and DF70 models, the plug is located on
the forward port side lower engine cover (Figure
11).
3. Refer to Table 2 to determine the engine oil capacity.
Place a suitable container under the drain plug opening.
Hold the container tightly against the engine to capture
dripping oil.
4. Using an appropriately sized alien wrench, carefully
remove the oil drain plug and gasket. Inspect the gasket
for damaged surfaces. Replace the gasket if any defects
are noted.
5. Tilt the engine slightly up and pivot it toward the drain
plug side. Drain all oil from the engine. Clean contami-
nants from the plug and plug opening. Place the gasket Oil Filter Replacement
onto the drain plug then carefully thread the plug into the (DF9.9 and DF15 Models)
opening. Tighten the plug to the specification in Table 6.
6. Refer to Checking the Engine Oil Level and Condition Change the engine oil and oil filter at the intervals listed
as described in this chapter to determine the oil fill cap lo- in Table 1.
cations and instructions. Add 90 percent of the engine oil 1. Drain the engine oil as described in this chapter
capacity (see Table 2) to the power head then check the 2. Remove the lower engine cover as follows:
engine oil level. Correct the oil level if necessary. a. Carefully pull the seal (1, Figure 16) from the lower
7. Start the engine and check for leakage. cover.
MAINTENANCE, LUBRICATION AND TUNE-U 127
LOWER ENGINE
COVER REMOVAL
1. Seal
2. Starboard cover
3. Screw
4. Clamp
5. Screw
6. Pin
7. Latch
8. Cotter pin
9. Washer
10. Port cover
I@ OIL FILTER AND COVER

DF9.9 AND DF 15 MODELS
b. Remove the cover screws (5, Figure 16).
c. Carefully pull the port cover (10, Figure 16) from
the engine.
3. Remove the filter as follows:
a. Locate the oil filter cover on the lower port side of
the power head.
b. Place a shop towel under the filter cover. Hold in on
the cover and remove the bolts (1, Figure 17).
c. Pull the cover, spring and O-ring (2-4, Figure 17)
from the power head.
d. Slip the filter (5, Figure 17) and O-ring (6) from the
filter bore.
e. Discard the O-rings. Wipe up the spilled oil. Clean
all debris from the filter bore and filter cover with a
clean shop towel.
4. Install the new filter as follows:
a. Lubricate the new O-rings (4 and 6, Figure 17) with
engine oil then place them onto the filter and filter
cover.
b. Slip the new oil filter into the filter bore with the
1. Bolt small O-ring facing in.
2. Filter cover c. Place the new larger O-ring (4, Figure 17) into the
3. Spring groove within the filter cover (2).
4. Large O-ring
5. Filter
d. Place the spring (3, Figure 17) into the recess
6. Small O-ring within the filter cover. Align the spring with the de-
pression in the filter while placing the filter cover
onto the power head.
128 CHAPTER FOUR
@ LOWER ENGINE
COVER REMOVAL
Bolts (4)
\
Port
cover
e. Hold in on the filter cover and align the holes then

install the bolts. Securely tighten the bolts.
5. Align the screw holes in the port cover (10, Figure 16)
with the holes in the starboard cover. Align the lower
cover mating surfaces. Install and securely tighten the
screws.
6. Align the groove ofthe seal (1, Figure 16) with the up-
per edge of the lower engine covers. Push the seal onto the
covers.
7. Fill the engine with oil as described in this chapter.
8. Start the engine and check for leakage.
Oil Filter Replacement

(All Models Except DF9.9 and DF15) LOWER ENGINE COVER REMOVAL
Change the engine oil and oil filter at the intervals listed
in Table 1. A suitable oil filter wrench or adapter (Figure
18) (Suzuki part No. 0991 5-47340) is required for filter
rernov al and installation.
1. Drain the engine oil as described in this chapter.
2. Remove the lower engine cover as follows:
a. On DF25 and DF30 models, remove the four bolts
(Figure 19) and carefully pull the port cover from
the engine.
b. On DF40 and DF50 models, remove the cotter pin,
pin and washer, then lift rear cover latch from the
lower cover. Disconnect the cover mounted trim
switch leads from the engine wire harness. Pull the
seal from the lower cover. Remove the five bolts
(Figure 20) then carefully pull the port cover from
the engine.
c. On DF60 and DF70 models, remove the cotter pin
(4, Figure 21), pin (7) and washer (5) then lift the
latch (6) from the cover. Lift the seal (1, Figure 21)
from the lower cover. Remove the four bolts (8,
MAINTENANCE, LUBRICATION AND TUNE-U 129
LOWER ENGINE
COVER REMOVAL
1. Seal
2. Screw
3. Port cover
4. Cotter pin
5. Washer
6. Latch
7. Pin
8. Screw
9. Plug
10. Starboard cover
Figure 21) and carefully pull the starboard cover
@ FRONT VIEW OF POWER H

from the engine.
3. Refer to the filter location for the selected model:
DF25 AND DF30 MODEL a. On DF25 and DF30 models, the oil filter is located
at the front lower port side of the power head (Fig-
ure 22).
Flywheel nut
..,........................... ./ b. On DF40 and DF50 models, the oil filter is located
.. ... ..,
,
&<.,
.......: ..,.................. .., ....,........,................. on the lower port side of the power head and next to
:
,... ,
:...; ..............
.... . :.......... :. ". : : *
5 !,Z.. ;..2 ......... . ., . ..
.:..:;..:.:..;: .. . ;...
....::........ .;' ;. t..: ; . , , , . L...! the oil dipstick (Figure 23)
c. On DF60 and DF70 models, the oil filter is located
on the lower starboard side of the power head and
next to the shift linkage (Figure 24).
4. Remove the filter as follows:
a. Place a shop towel under the oil filter.
b. Engage the oil filter wrench or adapter (Figure 18)
onto the oil filter.
c. Remove the filter from the power head. Clean up
any spilled oil.
d. Ensure the sealing ring is not stuck to the oil filter
mounting surface.
5. Using a clean lint free shop towel, clean all oil or de-
bris from the filter mounting surface (Figure 25).
6. Apply a thin coating of engine oil to the sealing ring
(Figure 26) of the new oil filter.
130 CHAPTER FOUR

@ DF60 AND DF70 MODELS
Oil filter
- oil filter
7. Thread the new filter onto the oil filter adapter until the
sealing washer just contacts the oil filter mounting surface
(Figure 25). Tighten the filter an additional 314 to 1 turn.
8. Reverse the removal procedure to install the cover
while noting the following:
a. Make sure there are no hoses, cables or other engine
components pinched between the engine covers.
b. Align the lower covers before installing the screws.
c. Securely tighten the cover screws or bolts.
9. Fill the engine with oil as described in this chapter.
10. Start the engine and check for leakage.
Timing Belt Inspection
DF9.9, DF15, DF60 and DF70 models use a timing belt

(Figure 27). Inspect the timing belt at the intervals listed
in Table 1. All other models are equipped with a timing
chain, the timing chain does not require regular inspec-
tion.
spark plugs and ground the plug leads.
2A. On manual start models, remove the manual starter
as described in Chapter Ten.
2B. On electric start models, remove the flywheel cover
as described in Chapter Eight.
MAINTENANCE. LUBRICATION AND TUNE-UP 131
Valve Adjustments
Running the engine with incorrect valve clearances can

cause rough engine operation, excessive valve train noise
and excessive wear to the valve train components. Normal
engine wear will gradually cause the valve clearances to
change. It is important that this be compensated for by pe-
riodic valve clearance inspections. Infrequent mainte-
nance can also cause valve train wear.
Check the valve adjustment (Figure 28) at the intervals
listed in Table 1. Valve adjustment procedures are in
Chapter Five.
Hoses and Clamp Inspection
Inspect the entire fuel system and oil breather system

for leaking hoses or connections at the intervals specified
in Table 1. Replace plastic tie clamps if they are brittle or
damaged.
Carefully tug all fuel and oil breather hoses to check for
3. Use compressed air to blow debris from the camshaft a tight fit at all connections. Inspect spring type hose
pulley, flywheel and timing belt. clamps (Figure 29) for corrosion or lack of spring ten-
sion. Replace any hose clamps that are in questionable
4. Inspect the belt surfaces for worn, cracked or oil
condition.
soaked surfaces.
Replace fuel hoses that are hard, brittle, leak or feel
5. Manually rotate the flywheel while inspecting all of spongy. Use only original equipment replacement hoses.
the timing belt cogs. Other types of hoses may not meet Coast Guard require-
6. Inspect the flywheel and camshaft pulley cogs for ments. Refer to Chapter Six for hose routing and connec-
worn or damaged surfaces. tion points.
7. Replace the timing belt and related components as de-
scribed in Chapter Eight if any defects are noted.
Spark Plug Inspection
8. Install the manual starter or flywheel onto the power
head. Inspect the spark plugs at the intervals specified in Ta-
9. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the negative ble 1. A careful inspection of the spark plugs can provide
battery cable. an indication of potential engine problems. Correcting the
problem can prevent potential damage to power head
components.
CA UTION
Use special insulated pliers to remove the
spark plug cap from the spark plugs. The
caps are easily perforated by the gripping
surfaces of standardpliers. A damaged cap
may cause an ignition misfire.
NOTE
Mark or make note of the cylinder for each
sparkphig andplug lead as they are removed.

2. Remove the spark plug lead as follows:
a. On DF9.9, DF15, DF25 and DF30 models, care-
fully twist the spark plug caps by hand to free them
from the spark plugs. Pull the lead from each plug.
b. On DF40 and DF50 models, carefully bend the
clamps (Figure 30) for ignition coils No. 1 and 2 up
to expose the ignition coil bolts. Remove the three
bolts and carefully pull the ignition coils from the
power head.
c. On DF60 and DF70 n~odels,carefully twist the plug
caps by hand to free them from the spark plugs. Pull
the leads from each plug.
3. Clean all corrosion or contaminants from the spark smaller than the spark plug insulator to the spark plug.
plug cap. Inspect the cap for torn, weathered or perforated Thread the spark plug in until resistance if felt, then i-e-
surfaces. Replace the cap if defective. move the hose from the spark plug.
4. Using compressed air, blow all debris from the spark 8. Using an appropriate spark plug socket, tighten the
plug to cylinder head mating surfaces. Using an appropri- spark plugs to the specification in Table 6.
e
ate spark plug socket, remove each spark plug. Compare 9. Connect the spark plug leads as follows:
the appearance of each spark plug with the plugs shown in a. On DF40 and DF50 models, carefully guide the
Figure 31. spark plug connector end of the ignition coil onto
5. If necessary, clean carbon, corrosion or other contami- the spark plug. Rotate the ignition coil to align the
nants from the spark plug openings with a thread chaser retaining bolt holes. Install and securely tighten the
(Figure 32). coil retaining bolts. Route the ignition coil wires as
6. Check and correct the spark plug gap (Table 4) as fol- shown in Figure 30 and bend the clamps down to
lows: retain them.
a. Use a wire feeler gauge and measure the spark plug b. On all other models, route the leads to the correct
gap as shown in Figure 33. If the gap (Figure 34) is plug and away from any moving components. Ap-
correct the gauge with the specified diameter (Ta- ply a light coating of dielectric grease to the inner
ble 4) will pass between the electrodes with a slight surfaces ofthe spark plug cap and carefully slide the
drag. cap over thc spark plug. Push on the cap until it
b. Use a spark gapping tool (Figure 35) to adjust the snaps onto the spark plug.
gap. Never tap the spark plug against a hard object 10. Connect the negative battery cable.
to close the gap. Doing so can damage the spark
plug insulator. Fuel Filter Inspection
7. Apply a small amount of antiseize compound to the
threads of the spark plug. Thread the spark plug into the WARNING
cylinder head by hand. On DF40 and DF50 models attach Use caution i f working with the fuel w e i n
a small section of hose with an inner diameter slightly Never smoke around fuel o r fuel imp07-s En-
SPARK PLUG CONDITION
NORMAL GAP BRIDGED OIL FOULED

Identified by light tan or gray depos- Identified by deposit buildup closing Identified by wet black deposits on
its on the firing tip. gap between electrodes. the insulator shell bore and elec-
Can be cleaned. Caused by oil or carbon fouling. If trodes.
deposits are not excessive, the plug Caused by excessive oil entering
can be cleaned. combustion chamber through worn
rings and pistons, excessive clear-
ance between valve guides and
stems or worn or loose bearings.
Can be cleaned. If engine is not re-
paired, use a hotter plug.
CARBON FOULED LEAD FOULED

Identified by lack, dry fluffy carbon Identified by dark gray, black, yellow
deposits on insulator tips, exposed or tan deposits or a fused glazed
WORN
shell surfaces and electrodes. coating on the insulator tip. Identified by severely eroded or
Caused by too cold a plug, weak ig- Caused by highly leaded gasoline. worn electrodes.
nition, dirty air cleaner, too rich a fuel Can be cleaned. Caused by normal wear. Should be
mixture or excessive idling. Can be replaced.
cleaned.
PREIGNITION
OVERHEATING
Identified by melted electrodes and
* Identified by a white or light gray in- possibly blistered insulator. Metallic
FUSED SPOT DEPOSIT sulator with small black, gray or
deposits on insulator indicate en-
Identified by melted or spotty depos- brown spots and with a burnt ap-
gine damage.
its resembling bubbles or blisters. pearance of electrodes.
Caused by wrong type of fuel, incor-
Caused by sudden acceleration. Can Caused by engine overheating, rect ignition timing or advance, too
be cleaned. wrong type of fuel, loose spark
hot a plug, burned valves or engine
plugs, too hot a plug or incorrect ig-
overheating. Replace the plug.
nition timing. Replace the plug.
134 CHAPTER FOUR
sure no flame or source of ignition is pres-

ent in the work area. Flame or sparks can
ignite fuel or fuel vapors resulting in fire or
explosion.
Eventually dirt, fuel deposits and other contaminants

form or enter the fuel system. These contaminants are
trapped by the fuel filter(s). Regular inspection and filter
replacement helps prevent eventual filter blockage and
fuel starvation problems. Clean, inspect or change the fuel
filter at the intervals listed in Table 1.
Fuel injected models use both a low and high pressure
fuel filter. Carburetor equipped models use only a low
pressure fuel filter. DF9.9 and DF15 models use an inline
type fuel filter (Figure 36). All other models use a canis-
ter type low pressure fuel filter (Figure 37). Both types
can be visually inspected for contaminants. These filters
are non-serviceable and must be replaced if contaminated.
The EFI high pressure filter (Figure 38) cannot be visu-
ally inspected. Replace the high pressure filter at the inter-
val listed in Table 1. Fuel filter replacement instructions
are provided in Chapter Six. Inspect the low pressure filter
as follows:
2. Low pressure fuel filter location is as follows:
a. On DF9.9 and DF16 models, the low pressure fuel
filter is located at the lower rear port side of the cyl-
inder head.
b. On DF25, DF30, DF40 and DF50 models, the low
pressure fuel filter is located at the lower rear star-
board side of the cylinder head.
c. On DF60 and DF70 models, the low pressure fuel
filter is located on the lower front port side of the
tamination if rust colored deposits are detected inside the
power head. filter
3. Inspect the filter housing with a flashlight for sediment
or contamination. Replace the filter if dark staining or a 4. Inspect the fuel hose connections and hose clamps for
significant amount of sediment is detected within the filter leakage, split hoses, corroded clamps or other defects. Re-
housing. Inspect the fiiel tank, hoses and fittings for con- place defective hoses and clamps as required.
1. Fuel connector
2. Primer bulb
3. Fuel metering assembly
4 Fuel tank cap
sure noflame or source of ignition ispresent

in the work area. Flame or sparks can ignite
fuel orfuel vapors resulting infire or expio-
sion.
Inspect the portable fuel tank and related components

for leaking or damaged components at the intervals listed
in Table 1.
1. Inspect the primer bulb (2, Figure 39) and fuel hoses
for a cracked, weathered, sticky or damaged surfaces. Re-
place any defective or suspect components as described in
Chapter Six.
2. Squeeze the primer bulb while checking the hoses,
5 . Inspect the filter body for cracked, softened or leaking primer bulb and connectors for fuel leakage. Replace any
surfaces. Replace the filter as described in Chapter Six if leaking components.
these or other defects are noted. 3. Remove the fuel tank cap (4, Figure 39) and inspect
6. Connect the negative battery cable. the inside of the fuel tank. If debris or deposits are found
within the tank, disassemble and clean the fuel tank as de-
Fuel Tank, Hoses and Fittings Inspection scribed in Chapter Six.
4. Install the fuel tank cap and shut the cap mounted vent.
WARNING Tilt the fuel tank enough to apply fuel to the mounting
Use caution if working with thefuel system. gasket for the fuel metering assembly. Repair leakage at
Never smoke aroundfuel or fuel vapors. En- the mounting gasket as described in Chapter Six.
136 CHAPTER FOUR
Throttle and Shift Linkage Lubrication
Lubricate the throttle and shift linkage (Figure 40) us-

ing a water resistant grease at the intervals in Table 1.
Regular lubrication prevents corrosion and helps ensure
smooth operation. Apply a small amount of grease to all
pivot points, throttle roller and throttle cam surfaces. Ex-
cessive lubrication provides no additional benefit and
may attract dirt and debris. Use penetrating oil if difficult
access prevents the application of grease to a particular
point.
Fastener Inspection
Tighten the power head mounting, flywheel, intake

manifold, cylinder head, water jacket and rocker arm
cover fasteners at the initial 20 hours and at 100 hours or 6
month intervals. Refer to the appropriate chapter for tight-
ening sequence, tightening torque and specific instruc-
tions.
Loose nuts or bolts allow power head mounted compo-
nents to vibrate and produce noise is often confused with
internal engine noise. Inspect the nuts and bolts that attach
the fuel filters, electric starter, manual starter, wire and ca-
ble clamps and other power head mounted components.
Tighten loose fasteners to the specification provided in
the appropriate chapter. If a torque specification is not
available, tighten the fasteners to the standard torque
specification.
nance, the battery looses its charge and begins to deterio-
rate. Marine engines are exposed to a great deal more
Timing and Fuel System Adjustments moisture than automobiles, resulting in more corrosion
forming on the battery terminals. Clean the terminals and
Check andlor adjust the ignition timing and fuel system charge the battery at 30 day intervals during storage. Re-
components at the intervals listed in Table 1. fer to Chapter Seven for complete battery testing, mainte-
All Suzuki 4-stroke outboards arc equipped with elec- nance and charging instructions.
tronic ignition timing control. The ignition timing is
non-adjustable. Check the ignition timing as described in
Tune Up to verify proper ignition system operation. Power Head Anodes Inspection
Carburetor equipped models required idle speed and pi-
lot screw adjustments at regular intervals. A power head mounted anode is used only on DF50 and
EFI models require adjustments to the idle air bypass DF70 models. Refer to Exhaust Cover in Chapter Eight
screw and fuel mixture. Adjustment to the idle air bypass for removal, instructions and inspection. Inspect the
screw requires commonly available equipment. However, midsection and gearcase mounted anodes as described in
fuel mixture adjustment requires specialized equipment. this chapter.
Have this adjustment performed at a Suzuki dealership.
MIDSECTION MAINTENANCE
Battery Inspection
Midsection maintenance involves lubricating the
Check the battery condition and fluid level at the inter- swivelltilt pin surfaces and steering cable. inspecting the
vals listed in Table 1. Unlike automobiles, boats may set sacrificial anodes and checking for loose nuts and bolts.
idle for weeks without running. Without proper rnainte- These maintenance items reduce corrosion dama2('e, re-
life. Lubricate the cable with the grease recommended by

the cable manufacturer or marine all-purpose grease. 111-
ject the grease into the fitting until a slight resistance if
felt. Do not overfill the cable.
CA UTION
The steering cable must be in the retracted
position before grease i s injected into the
cable grease fitting The cable can become
li~~d~~aulically
locked if grease is injected
with the cable extended. Refer to the cable
manufactures instructions for the type and
frequency of lubrication.
Anode Inspection
Clean and inspect the midsection mounted anodes (Fig-

ure 44) at the intervals listed in Table 1. Inspect the an-
odes more frequently if the engine is operated or stored in
salt, brackish or polluted water.
ducc wear to bushings and pins and help ensure smooth Refer to Chapter Eleven to determine the mounting lo-
tilting and steering inovcmcnt. cations of the anodes. Use a stiff brush to clean deposits
and other material from the exposed anode surfaces. Re-
place the anode if it has lost 40% or more of its material or
Swivel and Tilt Pins Lubrication has deep pitting. Remove the anode only if it must be re-
placed. Remove and replace the anode as follows:
Apply a good quality water resistant grease to all acces- 1. Remove the anode mounting bolt(s) and carefully pry
sible pivot points (Figure 41) 011 the midsection. Grease the anode from the mounting surface.
fittings arc provided for the tilt (Figure 42) and pivot pins 2. Use a stiff brush to thoroughly clean the mounting
(Figure 43). Refer to Chapter Eleven to determine the lo- bolts, bolt holes and the anode mounting surface. Con-
cation of midsection niounted grease fittings. Pump tinue cleaning until the surface is shiny. Do not apply any
grease into the Fitting until the old or contaminated grease paint or other material to the anode mounting surface.
is expelled from the pivot point.
3. Use a stiff brush and file to clean all contaminants or
casting slag from the mounting surfaces of the anode. The
Steering Cable Lubrication anode mounting surfaces must be clean and true to ensure
proper grounding and a flush fit to the midsection.
Some aftermarket steering cables have a grease fitting. 4. Install the anode and mounting bolt(s). Securely
Regular lubrication of the cable dramatically increased its tighten the bolt(s).
5. Cover the mounting bolt heads with a coating of
Suzuki silicone seal (part No. 99000-3 1120) as indicated
in Figure 45. Allow adequate time for curing of the seal-
ant before placing the engine in the water. Suzuki silicone seal
Anode I
CA UTION
Never paint or apply any coating to the sac-
rzficial anodes or anode mounting surfaces.
Anodes must be cleaned of allforeign mate-
rial to provide maximum corrosion protec-
tion.
Ground Wire Inspection
Ground wires (Figure 46) are used to maintain electri-

cal continuity to the engine for moveable midsection com-
ponents. Broken, corroded or damaged ground wires
prevent the anodes from protecting the ungrounded com-
ponents. Refer to Chapter Eleven to locate ground wires.
Inspect the ground wires at the intervals listed in Table 1.
1. Visually inspect the wires for broken, frayed or cor-
roded surfaces. Replace defective or questionable ground
wires.
2. Check for the presence of corrosion in or around
ground wire terminals (Figure 47). If corrosion is present,
disconnect and clean the wire terminals as follows:
a. Remove the screw, wire and washer from the en-
gine.
b. Use a stiff bmsh and or file to clean all corrosion,
paint or other contaminants from the wire terminal,
screw and insulating washer.
c. Use an appropriate thread chaser to clean corrosion,
paint or other contaminants from the threaded
screws opening.
d. Install the wire terminal then insulating washer to
the screw. Position the components as indicated in
Figure 47. Install and securely tighten the screw.
Ensure the wire terminal is positioned so it will not
Ground wire
bind or stretch when tilting or steering the engine. terminal Insulating
\ washer
/
Fastener Inspection
Tighten all accessible midsection bolts and nuts at the

intervals listed in Table 1. Refer to Chapter Eleven to de-
termine the location and torque specification for all fas-
teners used in the midsection. If a specific torque
specification is not provided, tighten the fasteners to the
standard torque specification.
bricant; by changing the lubricant at the specified inter-

vals additional wear caused by the contamination can bc
eliminated.
CA UTION
Never use automotive gear lubricant in the
geatruse. It is not suitable for marine appli-
cations, and its use can lead to increased
wear and corrosion of internal components.
CA UTION
Ensure that the correct gemcase plugs are
removed when checking, or chatiging the
yarcase lubricant. Some models have a
flush plug (Figure 48) located on the same
side of fhe gearcase as the gearcase fill/level
plugs. The flush plug is used with a special
adctpter to flush contatt1it1a11tsfrom the
cooling system. On models so equipped, the
word FLUSH is cast into the gearcase lio~/s-
ing next to the plug.
CAUTION
Inspect the sealing washers anytime the
gearcase plugs are removed. Replace miss-
ing or damaged sealing washers to prevent
leakage.
Gearcase Lubricant Inspection
(so) ~ e v e l ~ v e opening
nt Check the gearcase lubricant level and condition at the
intervals specified in Table 1. Refer to Gearcase Lzhri-
cant Replacement for the recommended gearcase lubri-
cant.
1. Position the engine in the upright position for at least
one hour before checking the lubricant.
3. Position a suitable container under the gearcase.
Slowly remove the fillldrain plug (Figure 49) and allow a
small sample (a teaspoon or less) to drain from the
gearcase. Quickly replace the fillldrain plug and tighten it
securely. Refer to Chapter Three if water or a milky ap-
GEARCASE MAINTENANCE pearance is noted in the fluid sample.
4. Rub a small amount of the fluid sample between your
Maintenance to the gearcase involves checking and finger and thumb. Refer to Chapter Three if the lubricant
changing the gearcase lubricant, lubricating the propeller feels gritty or if metal particles are present.
shaft, tightening the propeller nut, inspecting gearcase 5 . Slowly remove the levellvent plug (Figure 49). The
mounted anodes and checking for loose fasteners. Refer lubricant level should be even with the bottom of the
to Table 1for gearcase maintenance requirements and in- level/vent plug opening. Add lubricant into the fillldrain
tervals. plug opening (Figure 50) until fluid flows from the
Checking the gearcase lubricant at periodic intervals level/vent opening. Suspect a leak if more than loz.
may make it possible to detect potential gearcase prob- (291111) is required to fill the gearcase. Refer to Chapter
lems and correct the cause before more extensive damage Three if a leak is suspected. Install the levellvent then
occurs. Normal gearcase operation contaminates the ILI- drain/fill plugs. Securely tighten both plugs.
140 CHAPTER FOUR
6. Allow the gearcase to remain undisturbed in a shaded

area for one hour, then recheck the fluid level. Add more
lubricant if necessary.
Gearcase Lubricant Replacement
Use Suzuki outboard gear oil or SAE 90 marine gearcase

lubricant that meets GL5 specifications. Table 3 lists the
approximate gearcase capacity for all 4-stroke models.
2. Place a suitable container under the gearcase. Slowly
remove the fillldrain and levellvent plugs (Figure 49).
3. Inspect the gearcase lubricant as described Gearcase qucntly ifoperating the engine in salt, brackish or polluted
Lubricant Inspection. water.
4. Tilt the engine slightly and allow the gearcase to drain
completely. DF9.9 and DF15 models are equipped with a single an-
5. Use a pump dispenser or squeeze tube and sloi1~11~ ode plate located just above the propeller. The trim tab
pump lubricant into the drainlfill opening (Figure 50). (Figure 52) functions as the anode on all other models.
Continue to fill the gearcase until lubricant flows from the The trim tab can be pivoted on its mount to reduce steer-
levelivent opening (Figure 49). Without removing the ing torque. Trim tab adjustment instructions are provided
pump or tube from the drainlfill opening, install the in Chapter Five. Adjustment is not usually required if the
levellvent plug (Figure 49). Securely tighten the plug. trim tab is reinstalled in the original position. Use a felt tip
6. Remove the pump or tube from the drainlfill opening and marker or tape and make reference marks prior to remov-
quickly install the fillidrain plug. Securely tighten the plug. ing or loosing the trim tab mounting bolt.
7. Allow the gearcase to remain undisturbed in a shaded
Use a stiff brush to clean deposits and other material
area for one hour, then recheck the fluid level. Add more
from the exposed anode surfaces. Replace the anode if it
lubricant if necessary.
has lost 40% or more of its material or has deep pitting.
8. Connect the negative battery cable. Properly dispose
Remove the anode only if it must be replaced. Remove
of the old lubricant.
and replace the anode as follows:
Propeller Shaft and Nut Lubrication I. Remove the anode or trim tab mounting bolt and care-
fully pry it from the mounting surface.
Lubricate the propeller shaft and tighten the propeller
2. Use a stiff brush to thoroughly clean the mounting
nut (Figure 51) at the intervals specified in Table 1. Rcg-
bolts, bolt holes and mountingsurfaces The surfaces
ular lubrication with marine grade all purpose grease will
must be cleaned until the surface is shiny. Do not apply
prevent corrosion and potential propeller shaft seizurc.
any paint or other material to the mounting surface.
Perform this maintenance at more frequent intervals ifop-
erating in salt, brackish or polluted water. 3 Use a stiff brush and file to clean all contaminants or
I. Remove the propeller as described in Chapter Nine. casting slag from the mounting surfaces of the anode or
2. Clean all corrosion and old grease from the propeller ti im tab. The anodc n~o~intingsurfaces must be clean and
shaft and splined section of the propeller. true to ensure a good ground connection and a flush lit to
3. Apply a generous amount grease to the propeller shaft the geaicase.
splines.
4. Install the propeller and tighten the propeller nut as de- 4. Install the anode or trim tab and nio~~ntingboll. Align
scribed in Chapter Nine. the trim tab reference marks. Securely tighten the mount-
ingbolt.
Anodes Inspection 5 . Cover the mounting bolt head with a coating of Suzuki
silicone seal (part No. 99000-3 1120) as indicated in Fig-
Clean and inspect the gearcase mounted anodc at the in- ure 45. Allow adequate time fur curing of the sealant be-
tervals listed in Table 1. Inspect the anodes more Ire- fore placing the engine in the water.
e. Remove the spark plug(s) and spray the sealing

agent into the spark plug hole(s). Crank the engine
over a few times to distribute the sealing agent. Ap-
ply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the
spark plug threads and install the spark plug(s).
4. Drain the engine oil as described in this chapter.
5. Drain as much fuel from the fuel tank as possible.
6. Drain the carburetor bowl or vapor separator tank.
Pump the primer bulb to remove all residual fuel in the
lines.
7. Install the drain plugs and tighten them securely.
8. Clean or change all fuel filters.
9. Treat any remaining fuel in the fuel tank with fuel sta-
bilizer.
Fastener Inspection
10. Disconnect the battery cables. Refer to Chapter
Seven for battery storage instructions.
Tighten the gearcase fasteners at the intervals listed in
1 1. Clean the exterior of the gearcase, drive shaft housing
Table 1. Refer to Chapter Nine to determine the fastener
and swivel brackets.
location and torque specification. If a torque specification
is not available, tighten the fasteners to the standard 12. Clean the components under the cover and apply a
torque. corrosion preventative spray.
Recommissioning the Engine

STORAGE PREPARATION
To re-commission the outboard motor, perform all re-
Except for some commercial applications, outboard en- quired maintenance. It is a good practice to replace the
gines seldom operate year round. Special preparation is water pump impeller at this time.
required if the engine requires either short-or long-term
Check all lubricant levels and fill the tank with fresh
storage. fuel. Pump the primer bulb and check for fuel leakage or
Proper storage can help prevent fuel, ignition and flooding at the carburetor(s) or vapor separator tank.
power head malfunctions after re-commissioning. Install the battery (Chapter Seven) if so equipped. At-
1. Flush the cooling system as described in this chapter. tach a flush device or place the outboard in a test tank and
2. Inspect the water stream fitting on the lower engine start the engine. Run the engine at idle speed and warm it
cover for debris. Inspect the speedometer opening at the to normal operating teniperature. Check for proper opera-
leading edge of the gearcase and other gearcase drains for tion of the cooling, electrical and warning systems. Refer
debris. Clean any debris with a piece of wire and com- to Chapter Three for troubleshooting procedures if neces-
pressed air. sary.
3. Treat the internal power head components with a stor-
age-sealing agent specifically designed for outboard en-
gines to prevent corrosion as follows: Submersion
a. Remove the silencer cover as described in Chapter Disassemble and inspect the power head if the engine
Six. was submerged while ninning. Internal damage to the
b. Run the engine at idle speed in a test tank or on a power head, such as a bent connecting rod, is likely. Refer
flushltest adapter for 10 minutes or until the engine to Chapter Eight for power head repair instructions.
reaches operating temperature Many components of the engine suffer the corrosive ef-
c. Raise the engine speed to approximately 1,500 rpm. fects of submersion in salt, brackish or polluted water. The
Spray the storage-sealing agent in 5-10 second in- symptoms may not occur for some time after the event.
tervals into the carburetor(s) until the engine Salt crystals form in many areas of the engine and pro-
smokes heavily. On multiple carbureted models, mote intense corrosion. The wire harness and connections
spray the agent into each carburetor evenly. are usually affected in a short period of time. Since it is
d. Stop the engine and remove it from the test tank or difficult to remove the salt crystals from the harness con-
remove the flushltest adapter. nectors, replace the wire hamess and clean all electrical
142 CHAPTER FOUR
component connections. The starter motor, relays and

switches on the engine usually fail if not thoroughly
cleaned or replaced.
Retrieve and service the engine as soon as possible.
Vigorously wash all debris from the engine with freshwa-
ter upon retrieval. Complete power head disassembly and
inspection is required when sand, silt or other gritty mate-
rial is noted inside the engine cover.
Service the engine quickly to ensure that it is running
within 2 hours of retrieval. Submerge in a barrel or tank of
freshwater if the engine cannot be serviced within this
2-hour time frame. This is especially important if the en-
gine was submerged in salt, brackish or polluted water.
This protective submersion prevents exposure to air and
decreases the potential for corrosion. This will not pre-
serve the engine indefinitely. Service the engine within a ditional information. Start the engine and run at low speed
few days of protective submersion. for a few minutes. Refer to Chapter Three for trouble-
Completely disassemble and inspect the power head in- shooting instructions if the engine cannot be started. Stop
ternal components if the engine was retrieved but not ser- the engine immediately and investigate any unusual
viced in a timely manner. noises. Run the engine at low speeds for at least 30 min-
Follow these steps as soon as the engine is retrieved utes to dry any residual water from the engine. Promptly
from the water. investigate any unusual noises or running conditions.
1. Remove the engine cover and vigorously wash all ma- 10. Again change the engine oil and filter. Perform all
terial from the engine with freshwater. Completely disas- other routine maintenance items before returning the en-
semble and inspect the power head if sand, silt or gritty gine to service. Install the propeller.
material is present inside the engine cover.
2. Dry the exterior of the engine with compressed air. Re-
Corrosion Maintenance
move the spark plug(s) and ground the spark plug lead(s).
Remove the propeller.
3. Drain all water and fuel from the fuel system. Remove Reducing corrosion damage is an effective way to en-
any water from the carburetor cover. Replace fuel filters. sure maximum performance, reliability and durability of
4. Drain the oil and remove the oil filter. Position the en- the engine. A simple way to reduce corrosion in the cool-
gine with the spark plug opening facing down. ing system passages is to always flush the cooling system
5. Slowly rotate the flywheel clockwise, as viewed from after running the engine. Refer to Cooling$xtem Flush in
the flywheel end, to force the water from the cylinders. this chapter.
Rotate the flywheel several times while noting whether Clean and inspect or replace the anodes at the interval
the engine is turning freely. Completely disassemble and specified in Table 1. The anodes material is more corso-
inspect the power head if interference is noted. sively active than other exposed engine components. Es-
6. Position the engine with the spark plug(s) facing up. sentially the anodes sacrifice themselves to protect the
Pour approximately one teaspoon of engine oil into the engine from corrosion damage. Corrosion protection is
spark plug opening. Repeat Step 5 to distribute the oil in drastically reduced if the anodes are dirty. deteriorated or
the cylinder. not grounded. Inspect the anodes as described in this
7. Disconnect all electrical connections and inspect the chapter.
terminals. Dry all exterior surfaces and wire connectors The use of a corrosion preventative spray on the exte-
with compressed air. Remove, disassemble and inspect rior engine components can substantially reduce corro-
the electric starter motor following the instructions in sion damage to engine wiring, terminals, exposed
Chapter Seven. fasteners and other components. Regular use is highly
8. Verify that all contaminated oil is drained from the en- recommended if the engine is operated in salt. brackish or
gine. Fill the engine with new oil and install a new oil fil- polluted water. Corrosion preventative sprays are avail-
ter. able from most marine dealerships and marine supply
9. Provide the engine with a fresh supply of fuel and oil. stores. Follow the instructions on the container for its
Refer to Power Head Maintenance in this chapter for ad- proper use.
AINTENANCE, LUBRIC ION AND TUNE-U 143
NOTE
Due to manufacturing and design vuri-
unces, ignition timing may vaiy as much as
2-3' i f checked with different brands or
types of timing lights. I f incorrect timing is
indicated, check the ignition timing with u
different brand or type of timing light before
replacing the CDI unit.
1. Connect the timing light pickup over the No. 1 spark

plug lead. On DF40 and DF50 models, connect the pickup
over the gray and orange wires leading to the No. 1 igni-
tion coil.
2. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to connect the
tachometer to one of the remaining coil wires.
3. Start the engine and run at idle speed until the engine
reaches normal operating temperature. If operating the
TUNE-UP engine is very cool water this may take 10 minutes or lon-
ger.
A complete tune-up involves a series of adjustments. 4. Locate the timing pointer and window (Figure 54) on
test, inspections and component replacement to return the the flywheel cover or manual starter housing.
engine to original specifications. Only a complete tune-up 5. Refer to Table 5 to determine the timing specification
delivers the expected performance, economy and durabil- and engine speed.
ity. To perform a complete tune-up, follow all of the appli- 6. Have the assistant shift the engine into gear and ad-
cable instructions listed in this section. vance the throttle until the engine just reaches the speed(s)
specified in Table 5. Direct the timing light at the timing
pointer (Figure 54). Read and record the ignition timing.
Spark Plugs 7. Switch the engine off and disconnect the tachometer
and timing light. Compare the recorded timing with the
No other component effects engine performance more specification(s) listed in Table 5.
than the spark plugs. Always replace the spark plugs when 8. Test all components of the ignition system as described
performing a complete tune-up. Cleaned and regapped in Chapter Three if the timing is incorrect.
plugs will not provided the durability of new spark plugs.
Inspect used plugs as described in Spark Plug I~ispec- Compression Test
tion. Correct any plug identified condition before pro-
ceeding with the tune-up. Refer to Table 4 for the No tune-up is complete without a compression test. An
recommended spark plugs. Adjust the gap and install the engine with low compression on one or more cylinders
new plugs as described in this chapter. cannot be properly tuned. Check the engine compression
following the instructions provided in Chapter Three.
Correct any condition causing low compression before
Ignition Timing Inspection
proceeding with the tune-up.
All 4-stroke Suzuki outboards ignition systems provide

automatic ignition timing control. Although the timing is Fuel System Adjustments
non-adjustable, check it at the intervals listed in Table 1.
An ignition system malfunction may cause incorrect tim- Required adjustments to the fuel system vary by model
ing control and result in poor performance or possible and in some instances by the number stamped on the car-
power head damage. Use a timing light (Figure 53) and buretor.
shop tachometer to check the ignition timing. Also, the DF9.9 and DF15 models require periodic idle speed and
engine must be run under actual operating conditions. pilot screw adjustments. Some later models are equipped
Have and assistant operate the boat while checking the with a non-adjustable pilot screw and require only idle
timing. speed adjustment.
144 CHAPTER FOUR
DF25 and DF30 models require pilot screw adj~istment, rect starting and idle speed prior to running the engine un-
carburetor synchronization and idle speed adjustment. der actual running conditions. Connect a shop tachometer
DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF70 models are equipped then start the engine. Allow the engine to reach operating
with electronic fuel injection and require adjustment to temperature before advancing the throttle. Check the full
the air bypass screw. Have a Suzuki dealership analyze throttle engine speed with a normal passenger and fuel
the fuel mixture at two year intervals. load. Adjust the trim position on power trim models to
Perform all applicable fuel system adjustments as de- achieve the highest boat speed then note the tachometer
scribed in Chapter Five at the intervals specified in Table 1. reading. Record the maximum engine speed and refer to
Chapter Three to determine the correct engine operating
speed. Check the propeller for damage or correct pitch if
Test Run the maximum engine speed is below or above the recoin-
mended range. If the engine speed is too low, check the
The final step in a fame-up is the test run. Operate the fuel and ignition system for faults as described in Chapter
engine on a flushltest device or in a test tank to verify cor- Three.
TABLE 1 MAINTENANC REQUIREMENTS AND INTERVALS

Before each use Check engine oil level and condition.
After each use Flush the cooling system.

Check engine oil level and condition.
Initial 20 hours or 1 month Inspect all hoses and clamps.

Change engine oil.
Replace oil filter.
Adjust idle speed.

Check gearcase lubricant level and condition.

(continued)
TABLE 1 MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTSAND INTERVALS (continued)

Every 100 hours or 6 months (continued) Lubricate the swivel and tilt pins.
Clean and inspect the spark plugs.
Change engine oil.

Change engine oil.
Replace oil filter.
Adjust idle speed.
Every two years Inspect all hoses and clamps.

Change engine oil.
Replace oil filter.
Adjust idle speed.
Replace fuel and breather tube hoses.
Have fuel mixture analyzed.*
Additional maintenance required Replace low pressure fuel filter.*

every 400 hours or 2 years
Additional maintenance required Replace the timing belt.*

every 800 hours or 4 years
Additional maintenance required Replace high pressure fuel filter.*

every 1000 hours
*This maintenance item may not apply to all models.
146 CHAPTER FOUR
TABLE 2 ENGINE OIL CAPACITY

Model Liters US Quarts
DF9.9, DF15
Oil change only 1.O 1.1
Oil and filter change 1.I 1.2
DF25, DF30
DF40, DF50
DF60, DF70
TABLE 3 GEARCASE LUBRICANT CAPACITY

Model mi. 02.
DF9.9, DF15 170 5.7

DF25, DF30 230 7.8
DF40, DF50 610 20.6
DF60, DF70 560 18.9
K PLUG SPECIFICATIONS
Model Recommended plug Spark plug gap
DF9.9, DF15 NGK DCPR6E 0.9-1.0 mm (0.035-0.039 in.)
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50 NGK DCPR6E 0.8-0.9 mm (0.031-0.035 in.)
DF60, DF70 NGK BPR6ES 0.7-0.8 mm (0.028-0.031 in.)
TABLE 5 IGNITION TIMING SPECIFICATIONS

Model Timing
DF9.9, DF15
@ 1300 rpm 5' BTDC
@ 3500 rpm 35' BTDC
DF9.9A. DF15A
@ 1300 rpm 5" BTDC
@ 3500 rpm 30ÂBTDC
DF25
@ 900 rpm 5' BTDC
@ maximum rpm 31 BTDC
DF30
@ 900 rpm 5' BTDC
@ maximum rpm 29- BTDC
DF40, DF50
@ 1000 rpm 7' BTDC
DF60, DF70
@ 1000 rpm 10ÂBTDC
Spark plug
DF9.9, DF15 18 13 -
DF25, DF30 18 13 -
DF40, DF50 18 13 -
DF60, DF70 28 21 -
Oil drain plug
II models 13 - 115
Refer to the QRD section for standard torque specifications.
Chapter Five
Synchronization and Adjustment
For an outboard motor to deliver maximum efficiency, 4. Standard torque specifications are listed in the Quick
performance and reliability, the ignition, valve train and Reference Data section at the front of the manual.
fuel systems must be correctly adjusted and synchronized.
On models equipped with multiple carburetors, the throt-
tle valves on all carburetors must be synchronized to open VALVE ADJUSTMENT
and close simultaneously. Perform the synchronization
and adjustment procedures after a tune-up or after replac- DF40 and DF50 models require a tappet retaining tool
ing any fuel or control system component that may effect (Suzuki part No. 09916-67010). Check andor adjust the
synchronization. valves with the power head at 20' C (68' F).
Adjust the shift cable and linkage if the gearcase is re-
moved or if incorrect shift operation is noted.
Check andlor adjust the valve clearance at the intervals
in Chapter Four and anytime a valve train component is
removed or replaced. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the
spark plugs and ground the spark plug leads.
This chapter provides complete synchronization and
adjustment instructions for all Suzuki 4-stroke outboards. 2. Remove the lower engine covers as described in Chap-
Tables 1-4 provide valve clearance, pilot screw, idle ter Four under Oil Filter Replacement.
speed and torque specifications. Table 1-4 are at the end 3A. On manual start models, remove the manual starter as
of this chapter. described in Chapter Ten.
Torque specifications are listed in Table 4. Use the stan- 3B. On electric start models, remove the flywheel cover as
dard torque specification for fasteners not listed in Table described in Chapter Eight.
SYNCRONIZATION AND ADJUSTMENT 149
DF9.9 AND DF45 MODELS DF9.9 AND D M 5 MODELS
TDC cyl. No. 1
No. 1 exhaust
No. 1 intake
No. 2 intake
No. 2 exhaust
~aked camshaft
0
^
boss pulley
Locknut
Screw
Valve
clearance
I
(Figure 4) for both valves. The size that passes between

the arm and stem with a slight drag indicates the valve
clearance. Compare the clearance measured with the
specification in Table 1.
7. Adjust the valve clearance as follows:
a. Loosen the locknut (Figure 4).
4. Rotate the flywheel clockwise until the No. 1 TDC b. Turn the adjusting screw until the clearance is cor-
mark aligns with the raised boss on the cylinder head rect.
(Figure 1). c. Hold the screw while tightening the locknut to the
specification listed in Table 4.
5. Remove the fuel pump from the rocker ann cover as
d. Recheck the valve clearance and readjust if neces-
described in Chapter Six. Support the rocker arm cover
sary.
(Figure 2) while removing the six cover bolts. Pull the
8. Rotate the flywheel clockwise until the No. 2 TDC
rocker arm cover from the cylinder head. Inspect the gas-
mark aligns with the raised boss on the cylinder head
ket for damage.
(Figure 1).
6. Measure the clearances of the No. 1 cylinder intake 9. Insert feeler gauges of various sizes between the
and exhaust valves (Figure 3). Insert feeler gauges of var- rocker arm and the valve stem (Figure 3) for both valves
ious sizes between the rocker arm and the valve stem of the No. 2 cylinder. The size that passes between the arm
150 CHAPTER FIVE
and stem with a slight drag indicates the valve clearance.

Compare the clearance measured with the specification in
Table 1.
10. Adjust the valve clearance as described in Step 7.
11. Install the gasket and rocker am1 cover. Tighten the
cover bolts in a crossing pattern to the specification in Ta-
ble 4.
2 . Rotate the flywheel clockwise until the No. 1 TDC
mark aligns with the raised boss on the cylinder head Timing -(
oointer
(Figure 1). Install the fuel pump as described in Chapter
Six.
13. Install the lower engine covers.
14A. On manual start models, install the n~anualstarter as
described in Chapter Ten.
14B. On electric start n~odels,install the flywheel cover as
described in Chapter Eight.
15. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the nega-
tive battery cable.
16. Start the engine and check for oil leakage at the
rocker arm cover mating surfaces.
@ DF25 AND DF30 MODELS
DF25 and DF30 Models NO. 1 I \

No. 1
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the intake
2. Remove the lower engine covers as described in Chap-
ter Four under Oil Filter Replacement.
3A. On manual start models, remove the manual starter as No. 2
described in Chapter Ten. intake
3B. On electric start models, remove the flywheel cover as
4. Place the engine at TDC for No. 1 cylinder as follows:
No. 3
a. Temporarily place the flywheel cover or manual intake
starter on the power head.
b. Place a thumb over the No. 1 spark plug opening.
Rotate the flywheel clockwise until pressure is de-
tected from the opening, and the TDC mark on the
flywheel aligns with the timing pointer (Figure 5).
Remove the cover or manual starter.
5. Support the rocker arm cover (Figure 2) while remov- clearance. Compare the clearance measured with the
ing the eight cover bolts. Pull the rocker arm cover from specification in Table 1.
the cylinder head. Inspect the gasket for damaged surfaces 8. Adjust the valve clearance as follows:
and replace as required. a. Loosen the locknut (Figure 7).
6. Verify that the cam lobe tips for all three valves for the b. Turn the adjusting screw until the clearance is cor-
No.1 cylinder (Figure 6) face opposite the rocker arm lip rect.
(Figure 7). If necessary, slightly rotate the flywheel to c. Hold the screw while tightening the locknut to the
properly position the cam lobe tips. specification listed in Table 4.
7. Insert feeler gauges of various sizes between the d. Recheck the valve clearance and readjust if neces-
rocker ann and the valve stem (Figure 7) for all three sary.
valves of the No. 1 cylinder. The size that passes between 9. Rotate the flywheel clockwise approximately 213 of a
the arm and stem with a slight drag indicates the valve turn. Verify the cam lobe tips for all three valves for the
No. 3 cylinder (Figure 6) face opposite the rocker arm

tips (Figure 7). If necessary, slightly rotate the flywheel
clockwise to properly position the cam lobe tips.
10. Insert feeler gauges of various sizes between the
rocker arm and the valve stem (Figure 7) for all three
valves of the No. 3 cylinder. The size that passes between
12. Rotate the flywheel clockwise approximately 213 of a
turn. Verify the cam lobe tips for all three valves for the
No. 2 cylinder (Figure 6) face opposite the rocker a m
tips (Figure 7). If necessary, slightly rotate the flywheel
clockwise to properly position the cam lobe tips.
13. Insert feeler gauges of various sizes between the
rocker arm and the valve stem (Figure 7) for all three
valves of the No. 2 cylinder. The size that passes between
I 1
Lobe 1
Camshaft clearance. Compare the clearance measured with the
Valve
stem tip
lobe specification in Table 1.
15. Apply a light coating of Suzuki bond 1207 (part No.
99000-3 1140) to the rocker arm cover mating surfaces of
the cylinder head. Install the cover and tighten the cover
w AND DF50 MODEL

bolts in a crossing pattern to the specification listed in Ta-
ble 4.
16. Install the lower engine covers as described in Chap-
ter Four.
17A. On manual start models, install the manual starter as
17B. On electric start models, install the flywheel cover as
18. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the nega-
tive battery cable.
sensor 111 rocker arm cover mating surfaces.

spark plugs (Chapter Four).
3. Remove the flywheel cover as described in Chapter
Eight.
4. Remove the fuel pump as described in Chapter Six.
5. Carefully disconnect the harness connector from the
camshaft position sensor (Figure 8).
6. Loosen and remove the rocker arm cover bolts in the
opposite of the tightening sequence indicated in Figure 8.
152 CHAPTER FIVE
No. 1 No. 1
intake exhaust
No. 2 No. 2
intake exhaust
No. 3
intake No. 3
exhaust
Remove the cover from the cylinder head. Inspect the gas-
ket for damaged surfaces and replace as required.
7. Rotate the flywheel clockwise until the No. 1 camshaft
lobes (Figure 9) face out and directly opposite the valve
tappets (Figure 10).
8. Insert feeler gauges of various sizes between the tappet
shim and the camshaft lobe (Figure 10). The size that
passes between the shim and lobe with a slight drag indi- opening ~ a ~ pshim
et
cates the valve clearance. Record the valve clearance for
each valve.
9. Rotate the flywheel clockwise until the No. 3 camshaft
lobe tips (Figure 10) are facing out and directly opposite the tappet shim as described in Step 14. Determine the
the valve tappets. amount of change needed as follows:
10. Insert feeler gauges of various sizes between the tap- a. Valve clearance greater than the specificci-
pet shim and tlie camshaft lobe (Figure 10). The size that tion-Subtract the valve clearance specification
passes between the shim and lobe with a slight drag indi- (middle of the range) listed in Table 1 from the
cates the valve clearance. Record the valve clearance for measured clearance. Increase the shim thickness by
each valve. this amount.
1 1 Rotate the flywheel clockwise until the No. 2 cam- b. Valve clearance less than the specification-Sub-
shaft lobe tips (Figure 10) are facing out and directly op- tract the measured clearance from the valve clear-
posite the valve tappets. ance specification (middle of the range) listed in
12. Insert feeler gauges of various sizes between the tap- Table 1. Decrease the shim thickness by this
pet shim and the camshaft lobe (Figure 10). The size that amount.
passes between the shim and lobe with a slight drag indi- 14. Replace the tappet shim as follows:
cates tlie valve clearance. Record the valve clearance for a. Rotate the flywheel clockwise until the camshaft
each valve. lobe tip for the selected valve is opposite the tappet
13. Compare the clearances with the specifications listed (Figure 10). Carefully rotate the tappet within its
in Table 1. If incorrect valve clearance in noted, replace bore until the notch (Figure 11) is facing toward the
SYNCRONIZATTON AND ADJUSTMENT 1%
Camshaft
Tappet retainer
d. Rotate the flywheel clockwise one half revolution

or until the camshaft lobe tip rotates 90' away from
the tappet. Insert a screwdriver into the tappet notch
and carefully pry the shim from the tappet (Figure
'Camshaft lobe
14). Use a magnet to pull the shim from the tappet.
Do not use fingers.
e. Measure the shim thickness (Figure 15). Shims are
available in sizes from 2.18-3.0 mm (0.086-0.1 18
opposite camshaft. The notch must be accessible for
in.) in 0.02 mm (0.001 in.) increments. Select the
tappet shim removal.
correct shim thickness as described in Step 13.
b. Rotate the flywheel clockwisc one complete revolu- f. Place the selected shim into the tappet with the
tion or until the camshaft lobe tip contacts the tappet numbered side facing down. Ensure the shim fully
shim. Remove the bolts from the camshaft cap next seats against the step within the tappet.
to the selected valve. g. Rotate the flywheel counterclockwise one half rev-
c. Place the tappet retainer over the camshaft cap as olution or until the camshaft lobe tip contacts the
shown in Figure 12. The IN marking on the retainer tappet shim (Figure 13). Remove the bolts from the
faces toward the port side of the cylinder head. The camshaft cap and tappet retainer. Carefully pull the
EX marking faces the starboard side. Thread the retainer from the cap. Install and evenly tighten the
camshaft cap bolts through the retainer and the cam- camshaft cap bolts to 10.0 N m (84 in-lb.).
shaft cap. Securely tighten the bolts. Ensure the fin- h. Repeat Step 14 for all valves with incorrect clear-
gers of the tool contact the barrel portion of the ance. Recheck the valve clearance (Steps 7- 13) and
tappet (Figure 13). correct if necessary.
154 CHAPTER FIVE
15. Apply a light coating of Suzuki bond 1207 (part No.

99000-3 1140) to the rocker arm cover mating surfaces of
the cylinder head. Install the cover to the cylinder head.
@ DF60 AND DF70
Tighten the cover bolts in the sequence indicated in Fig-
ure 8 to the specification in Table 4. TDC cyl. No. 2 and 4
Raised boss
16. Carefully connect the harness connector to the cam- A
shaft position sensor (Figure 8).
17. Install the fuel pump as described in Chapter Six. In-
stall the flywheel cover as described in Chapter Eight. In-
stall the lower engine covers.
18. Connect the negative battery cable. Install the spark
plugs.
rocker arm cover mating surfaces.

ter Four under Replacing the Oil Filter.
3. Remove the flywheel cover as described in Chapter v Camshaft
TDC cyl. 1 and 3
Eight. Remove the ignition coils as described in Chapter pulley
Seven.
(Figure 16). Remove the fuel pump from the rocker arm
cover as described in Chapter Six.
5. Support the rocker arm cover while removing the six
cover bolts. Pull the rocker arm cover from the cylinder
@ DF60 AND DF70
head. Remove the cover gasket.
6. Measure the clearances of the No. 1 cylinder intake
and exhaust valves (Figure 17). Insert feeler gauges of
No. 1
various sizes between the rocker arm and the valve stem
7. Adjust the valve clearance as follows:
a. Loosen the locknut (Figure 7).
b. Turn the adjusting screw until the clearance is cor-
rect.
c. Hold the screw while tightening the locknut to the
d. Recheck the valve clearance and readjust if neces-
sary.
(Figure 16).
various sizes between the rocker arm and the valve stem
0.1-1.0 mm
(0.004-0.04 i
Throttle shaft lever Cable bracket
Tiller control
Throttle arm
(Figure 7) for both valves. The size that passes bctw een 18. Install a new gasket and the rocker arm cover. Tighten
the arm and stem with a slight drag indicates the valve the cover bolts in a crossing pattern to the specification in
clearance. Compare the clearance measured with the Table 4. Install the fuel pump as described in Chapter Six.
specification in Table 1. 19. Install the ignition coils as described in Chapter
10. Adjust the valve clearance as described in Stcp 7. Seven. Install the flywheel cover as described in Chapter
11. Rotate the flywheel clockwise until the No. 4 TDC Eight.
mark aligns with the raised boss on the cylinder head 20. Install the lower engine covers.
(Figure 16). 21. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the nega-
12. Measure the clearances of the No. 4 cylinder intake tive battery cablc. Start the engine and check for oil leak-
and exhaust valves (Figure 17). Insert feeler gauges of age at the rocker arm cover mating surfaces. Correct any
various sizes between the rocker arm and the valve stem oil leakage before returning the engine to service.
clearance. Compare the clearance measured with the THROTTLE CABLE AND
specification in Table 1. LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
This section provides the procedures to properly adjust
the throttle linkage and cables. Adjust the cables and link-
age if disturbed or if improper adjustment is suspected of
(Figure 16).
causing engine malfunction.
various sizes between the rocker arm and the valve stem DF9.9 and DF15 Models
the arm and stem with a slight drag indicates the valve 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped).
clearance. Compare the clearance measured with the Remove the spark plugs and connect the leads to an en-
specification in Table 1. gine ground. Place the controls in the idle and neutral po-
16. Adjust the valve clearance as described in Stcp 7. sition.
17. Rotate the flywheel clockwise until the No. 1 TDC 2. Carefully pry the remote or tiller control cablc connec-
mark aligns with the raised boss on the cylinder head tor (Figure 18) from the throttle a m . Pry the throttle link-
(Figure 16). age (Figure 19) from the throttle arm and throttle lever.
156 CHAPTER FIVE
DF15 MODELS
Closed Throttle Full Throttle
Idle speed screw
0.1-1.0 mm
3. Rotate the idle speed screw (Figure 19) until a gap ex- ure 18). The specified gap is 0.1-1.0 mm (0.004-0.04 in.).
ist between the screw and the throttle shaft lever. If necessary, loosen the jam nut (Figure 18) and rotate the
4. Measure the throttle linkage at the points indicated in cable connectors until the gap is correct. Securely tighten
Figure 19. Loosen the jam nut and adjust the linkage as the jam nut and carefully snap the cable connector onto
required. Ensure the linkage connectors are orientated to the throttle arm connector.
allow installation to the throttle lever and throttle arm. Se- 8. Rotate the idle speed screw until it just contacts the
curely tighten the jam nut. Carefully snap the throttle link- throttle shaft lever (Figure 19). Turn the screw clockwise
age onto the throttle lever and throttle arm. one additional turn.
5. Move the throttle arm to the full throttle position (Fig- 9. Operate the throttle and shift control through their
ure 19) or until the throttle shaft lever contacts the stop on complete range. Correct the cause of any binding or im-
the carburetor. Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap be- proper operation before operating the engine.
tween the throttle arm and the stop. The specified gap is 10. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the nega-
0.1-1.0 mm (0.004-0.04 in.). If necessary, adjust the throt- tive battery cable (if so equipped). Adjust the idle speed as
tle linkage length to correct the gap. described in this chapter.
6. Place the throttle arm in the closed throttle position
(Figure 19). Fit the grooved portion of the throttle cable DF25 and DF30 Models
into the slot provided in the cable bracket (Figure 18).
Loosen the jam nut (Figure 18) and rotate the cable con- 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped).
nector until it fits over its connection to the throttle arm Remove the spark plugs and connect the leads to an en-
without disturbing previous adjustments. The flat side of gine ground. Place the controls in the idle and neutral po-
the cable connector must face the throttle arm and the con- sition.
nector must thread onto the cable a minimum of 8 mm 2. Carefully pry the throttle cam linkage (Figure 20 or
(0.3 14 in.). Figure 21) from the throttle arm and throttle cam (1 and 4.
7. Use a feeler gauge to measure the gap between the Figure 22). Measure the distance between the center of.
throttle lever and the stop provided on the carburetor (Fig- connector openings at each end of the linkage. The dis-
SYNCRONIZATION AND ADJUST 157
0 DF25 AND D
/
Throttle cam linkage 240.5 mm (9.47 in.)
81 mm (3.19 in.)
158 CHAPTER FIVE
DF25 AND DF30

WITH TILLER C
1. Throttle cam
2. Roller
3. Throttle cables
4. Throttle arm
5. Cable bracket
6. Jam nuts
tance must be 81 mm (3.19 in.). If necessary, loosen the tance must be 140 n m (5.51 in.). If necessay. loosen the
jam nuts and evenly rotate the connectors to correct the jam nuts and evenly rotate the connectors to correct the dis-
distance. Ensure the connector threads evenly onto each tance. Ensure the connector threads evenly onto each end
end of the linkage and securely tighten the jam nuts. Care- of the linkage and securely tighten the jam nuts.
fully snap the throttle cam linkage onto the throttle cam 4. Place the tiller or remote control in the close throttle
and throttle arm connections (1 and 4, Figure 22). (idle) position. If the throttle cable adjustment is correct,
3A. On tiller control models, remove the locking pins and the mark on the throttle cam (1, Figure 22) will align with
disconnect the throttle limiter linkage (Figure 20) from the center of the roller (2). If necessary, adjust the cables
the throttle arm and shift linkage connections. Measure as follows:
the distance between the center of the connector openings a. On tiller control models, loosen all four jam nuts (6,
at each end of the linkage. The distance must be 240.5 inn1 Figure 22). Turn the jam nuts until the throttle cam
(9.47 in.). If necessary, loosen the jam nuts and evenly ro- mark aligns with the roller without excessive slack
tate the connectors to correct the distance. Ensure the con- in the cables (3, Figure 22). Securely tighten the
nector threads evenly onto each end of the linkage and jam nuts (6, Figure 22). Cycle the throttle several
securely tighten the jam nuts. Position the throttle limiter times from closed to full throttle and then recheck
linkage onto it connections to the throttle arm and shift for proper adjustment. Readjust the cables as neces-
linkage. Install the locking pins into the connections to re- sary to correct improper adjustment.
tain the linkage. b. On remote control models, remove the locking pin;
3B. On remote control models, carefully pry the throttle - ' I ure
then pull the remote control throttle cable (T'g
linkage (Figure 21) from the throttle am1 and throttle cable 21) from its connection to the throttle linkage.
lever connections. Measure the distance between the center Loosen the jam nut, then rotate the cable connector
of connector openings at each end of the linkage. The dis- until the throttle cam mark aligns with the roller.
1. Cable bracket
2. Throttle cable
3. Shift cable
4. Jam nut
5. Cable connector
6. Jam nut
7. Shift arm post
8. Shift arm
9. Throttle arm
10. Throttle arm post
11. Throttle shaft lever
12. Throttle position switch
13. Shift linkage lever
14. Neutral switch plunger
15. Post
The flat side of the cable connector must face the 2. Remove the locking pin from the throttle arm post (10,
throttle arm. Ensure the cable end threads onto the Figure 23) and pull the throttle cable (2) away from the
threaded portion of the cable a minimum of 8 mm throttle arm (9).
(0.3 l 4 in.). tighten the jam nut. Connect 3. Rotate the throttle arm (9, Figure 23) until the throttk
the cable to the linkage and the lock- shaft lever (1 1) contacts and fully depresses the proti-usion
ing pin. Cycle the throttle several times from closed oll the throttle position switch (12).
to full throttle and make sure the throttle cam mark
aligns with the roller. Readjust the throttle cable as 4- h o s e n the Jam nut (4, Figure 23) and push in on the
reauired. cable connector (5) to remove slack from the cable. With
the throttle arm positioned as described in Step 3, rotate
5. Operate the throttle and shift control through their the cable connector (5, Figure 23) until it fits over the
complete range. Correct the cause of binding or improper throttle arm post (10). Adjust the cable to remove all slack
operation before operating the engine. without excessive preload. The flat side of the cable con-
6. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the negative nector must face the throttle arm and the connector must
battery cable (if so equipped). Adjust the idle speed and thread onto the cable a minimum of 8 mm (0.3 14 in.).
synchronize the carburetors as described in this chapter. 5. Securely tighten the jam nut. Install the cable to the
post and install the locking pin.
6. Cycle the controls from closed to full throttle several
times. Return the throttle to the closed position. Ensure
the throttle shaft lever (1 1, Figure 23) fully depresses the
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the protrusion on the throttle position switch (12) without ex-
spark plugs and connect the leads to an engine ground. cessive cable preload. Readjust the cable if improper ad-
Place the controls in the idle and neutral position. justment or excessive cable preload is noted.
160 CHAPTER FIVE
1. Throttle position switch

2. Cable bracket
3. Cable retainer
4. Throttle cable
5. Shift cable
6. Jam nut
7. Cable connector
8. Throttle arm post
9. Shift cable connector
10. Shift arm post
11. Shift linkage lever
12. Throttle arm
13. Neutral switch
14. Neutral switch plunger
15. Post
16. Jam nuts
DF60 and DF70 Models 6. Cycle the controls from closed to full throttle several
times. Return the throttle to the closed position. Ensure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the the throttle ann lever fully depresses the protrusion on the
spark plugs and connect the leads to an engine ground. throttle position switch (1, Figure 24) without excessive
Place the controls in the idle and neutral position. cable preload. Readjust the cable if improper adjustment
2. Remove the locking pin from the throttle arm post (8, or excessive cable preload occurs.
Figure 24) and pull the throttle cable (4) away from the
throttle arm (12).
3. Rotate the throttle arm (12, Figure 24) until the throttle SHIFT CABLE AND
shaft lever (on the bottom of the throttle body) contacts LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT
and fully depresses the protrusion on the throttle position
switch (1). Adjust the shift cablellinkage anytime the gearcase or
4. Loosen the jam nut (6, Figure 24) and push in on the shift linkage is disturbed or if incorrect adjustment is sus-
cable connector (7) to remove slack from the cable. With pected of causing an engine malfunction. Refer to the in-
the throttle arm positioned as described in Step 3, rotate structions for the selected model.
the cable connector (7, Figure 24) until it fits over the
throttle arm post (8). Adjust the cable to remove all slack
without excessive preload. The flat side of the cable con- DF9.9 and DF15 Models
nector must face the throttle arm and the connector must
thread onto the cable a minimum of 8 mm (0.3 14 in.). 1 . Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped).
5 . Securely tighten the jam nut. Install the cable to the Remove the spark plugs then connect the spark plug leads
post and install the locking pin. to a suitable engine ground.
2. Refer to Chapter Nine for instructions and remove the
propeller from the gearcase.
3. Place the shift selector or remote control lever in the
neutral position (Figure 25). Place a piece of tape on the
motor cover or remote control housing that is between the
shift selector or control lever and the cover or control
housing. Make marks that align with the shift selector.
4. Place the shift selector or control lever into the forward
position (Figure 25). Ensure that you feel the bump or
detent when the forward gear engages. Rotate the propel-
ler shaft counterclockwise as viewed from the rear to en-
gage the clutch to the forward gear. Place a piece of tape
on the motor cover between the shift selector or control le-
ver and the cover or control housing. Make marks that
align with the shift selector.
5. Place the shift selector or control lever into the reverse
position (Figure 25). Ensure that you feel the bump or
detent when the reverse gear engages. Rotate the propeller
shaft clockwise as viewed from the rear to engage the
clutch to the forward gear. Place a piece of tape on the mo-
tor cover or control housing between the shift selector or
lever and the cover or housing. Make marks that align
with the shift selector.
6. Place the shift selector in the neutral position (Figure
25). Measure the distance from the neutral-to-forward
position and neutral-to-reverse marks to determine the
amount of shift selector movement. The amount of move-
ment required to engage forward or reverse from neutral
must be equal. Perform Steps 7-10 if unequal selector
movement is noted.
7. Locate the lower-to-upper shift shaft connector on the
front edge of the drive shaft housing.
8. Using two wrenches, hold the connector and loosen
the jam nut (Figure 26). Rotate the shift connector (Fig-
ure 27) until equal shift selector movement occurs.
9. Ensure that the connector threads a minimum of four
threads onto the lower shift shaft. Securely tighten the jam
nut (Figure 26).
10. Check the shift selector for equal movement. Several
adjustments may be required before equal movement oc-
curs. Verify proper gear engagement and readjust as re-
quired.
11. On remote control models, place the remote control
lever in the neutral position. Loosen the jam nut and ro-
tate the cable connector until the cable aligns with its
mounting points 011 the cable bracket and shift linkage
with the neutral detent engaged. Ensure the connector
threads onto the cable a minimum of 8 mm (0.314 in.)
then securely tighten the jam nut. Attach the cable con-
nector to the shift linkage lever. Securely tighten all nuts,
bolts and screws.
12. Refer to Chapter Nine for instructions then install the 11. Install the propeller. Connect the negative battery ca-
propeller. ble (if so equipped). Install the spark plugs and spark plug
13. Install the spark plugs and spark plug leads. Connect leads.
the negative battery cable (if so equipped). 12. Operate the engine and check for proper shift engage-
14. Operate the engine and check for proper shift engagement. Make any corrections before returning the engine to
ment. Make any corrections before returning the engine to service.
service.
DF25 and DF30 Models with Remote Control

DF25 and DF30 Models with Tiller Control
1. Remove the spark plugs and ground the spark plug
1. Remove the spark plugs and connect the spark plug
leads. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
leads to an engine ground. Disconnect the negative bat-
2. Remove the propeller from the gearcase (Chapter
tery cable (if so equipped).
Nine). Disconnect the remote control shift cable from the
shift linkage.
Nine).
3. Place the shift selector in the neutral position (Figure 3. Remove the locking pins then carefully remove the
25). Place a piece of tape on the tiller control bracket that shift linkage (Figure 21) from the shift linkage levers.
is between the shift selector and the bracket. Make marks Measure the distance between the center of the connector
that align with the shift selector. openings at each end of the linkage. The distance must be
4. Place the shift selector in the forward position (Figure 149 mm (5.87 in.). Loosen the jam nuts and evenly rotate
25). Ensure a bump or detent is felt when the forward gear the connectors to achieve this measurement. Thread the
engages. Rotate the propeller shaft counterclockwise as connector evenly onto each end of the linkage and se-
viewed from the rear to engage the clutch to the forward curely tighten the jam nuts. Install the linkage to the shift
gear. Place a piece of tape on the tiller control bracket be- linkage levers and install the locking pins.
tween the shift selector and the bracket. Make marks that 4. Move the shift linkage lever (Figure 21) toward the
align with the shift selector. front and rear of the engine to locate the neutral detent.
5. Place the shift selector into the reverse position (Fig- The propeller shaft rotates freely in both directions when
ure 25). Ensure a bump or detent is felt when the reverse in neutral gear. Place a piece of tape on the power head
gear engages. Rotate the propeller shaft clockwise as that is directly in line with the shift linkage lever. Make a
viewed from the rear to engage the clutch to the reverse mark that aligns with the shift linkage lever when in neu-
gear. Place a piece of tape on the motor cover between the tral.
shift selector and tiller control bracket. Make marks that 5. Move the shift linkage lever (Figure 21) toward the
align with the shift selector. front of the engine until you feel the bump or detent
6. Place the shift selector in the neutral position (Figure when the forward gear engages. Rotate the propeller
25). Measure the distance from the neutral-to-forward shaft counterclockwise as viewed from the rear to fully
position and neutral-to-reverse marks to determine the engage the clutch to the forward gear. Place a piece of
amount of shift selector movement. The amount of move- tape on the power head that is directly in line with the
ment required to engage forward or reverse from neutral shift linkage lever. Make a mark that aligns with the shift
must be equal. Verify proper gear engagement and read- linkage lever.
just as required. 6. Move the shift linkage lever (Figure 21) toward the
7. Locate the lower-to-upper shift shaft connector on the rear of the engine until you feel the bump or detent when
front edge of the drive shaft housing. the reverse gear engages. Rotate the propeller shaft clock-
8. Loosen the jam nut (Figure 26) and rotate the shift wise as viewed from the rear to fully engage the clutch to
connector (Figure 27) until equal shift selector movement the reverse gear. Place a piece of tape on the power head
occurs. that is directly in line with the shift linkage lever. Make a
9. Ensure that the connector threads a minimum of 6 mark that aligns with the shift linkage lever.
threads onto the lower shift shaft. Securely tighten the jam 7. Place the shift linkage lever (Figure 21) in neutral.
nut (Figure 26). Measure the distance from the neutral-to-fonvard and
10. Check the shift selector for equal movement. Several neutral-to-reverse marks to determine the amount shift
adjustments may be required before equal movement oc- selector movement. The amount of movement required to
curs. Verify proper gear engagement and readjust as rc- engage forward or reverse from neutral must be equal.
quired. Perform Steps 8-1 1 if unequal lever movement is noted.
8. Locate the lower-to-upper shift shaft connector on the wise as viewed from the rear to fully engage the clutch to
fi-ont edge of the drive shaft housing. the reverse gear. Place a piece of tape on the power head
9. Using two wrenches, hold the connector and loosen the that is directly in line with the shift linkage lever. Make a
jam nut (Figure 26). Rotate the shift connector (Figure mark that aligns with the shift linkage lever when in re-
27) until equal shift selector movement occurs. verse.
10. Thread the connector onto the lower shift shaft a min- 6. Place the shift linkage lever (13, Figure 23) into neu-
imum of 6 threads, Securely tighten the jam nut (Figure tral. Measure the distance from the neutral-to-forward
26). and neutral-to-reverse marks to determine the amount of
1I. Check the shift linkage lever for equal movement. shift selector movement. The amount of movenlent re-
Several adjustments may be required before equal move- q~iiredto engage forward or reverse fi-om neutral must be
ment occurs. Verify proper gear engagement as indicated equal. Perform Steps 7-10 if unequal lever movement is
in Steps 4-6 and readjust as required. noted.
12. Place the shift linkage lever (Figure 21) in the neutral 7. Locate the lower-to-upper shift shaft connector on the
position. Rotate the propeller shaft to v e r i neutral
~ gear. front edge of the drive shaft housing.
13. Place the remote control lever in neutral gear. To re- 8. Loosen the jam nut (Figure 26) and rotate the shift
move excessive slack, push in lightly on the shift cable connector (Figure 2'7) until equal shift selector movement
during adjustn~ents.Loosen the jam nut and rotate the ca- is achieved.
ble connector until it aligns with its connection to the shift 9. Thread the connector onto the lower shift shaft a mini-
linkage. Ensure the cable end threads onto the shift cable a mum of 6 threads. Securely tighten the jam nut (Figure
minimum of 8 nlm (0.3 14 in.) then securely tighten the 26).
jam nut. Install the shift cable to the shift linkage. Se- 10. Check the shift linkage lever for equal movement.
curely tighten all fasteners. Several adjustments may be required before equal move-
14. Install the propeller. Connect the negative batte~yca- ment occurs. Verify proper gear engagement and readjust
ble (if so equipped). Install the spark plugs and spark plug as required.
leads. 11. Place the shift linkage lever (Figure 21) in neutral.
15. Operate the engine and check for proper shift engage- Rotate the propeller shaft to verify neutral gear. Install the
ment. Make any corrections before returning the engine to linkage to the post (1 5, Figure 23) of the shift linkage lc-
service. Lrer (13). Slip the locking pin into the hole in the post.
12. Remove the locking pin and pull the shift cable con-
nector from the shift arm post (7, Figure 23).
13. Inspect the alignment of the tip on shift arm (8, Fig-
I . Remove the spark plugs and ground the spark plug ure 23) to the neutral switch plunger (14). The tip on the
leads. Disconnect the negative battery cable. shift lever must align with the plunger of the switch. Cor-
2. Remove the propeller from the gearcase. Remove the rect misalignment as follows:
locking pin and carefi~llypull the shift linkage from the a. Remove the locking pin and pull the linkage fiom
post (15, Figure 23) on the shift linkage lever (13). the shift lever post (1 5, Figure 23).
3. Move the shift linkage lever (13, Figure 23) toward b. Loosen the jam nut at the lever end of the linkage.
the front and rear of the engine to locate the neutral detent. Rotate the linkage connector until the lever and
The propeller shaft rotates freely in both directions in neu- plunger align.
tral gear. Place a piece of tape on the power head that is di- c. Ensure the linkage connector threads onto the link-
rectly in line with the shift linkage lever. Make a mark that age a minimum of 8 mm (0.314 in.). Securely
aligns with the shift linkage lever when in neutral. tighten the jam nut.
4. Move the shift linkage lever toward the front of the en- d. Install the linkage to the post and install the locking
gine until the bump or detent is felt when the forward gear pin. Verify correct adjustment.
engages. Rotate the propeller shaft counterclockwise as 14. Place the remote control lever or tiller mounted shift
viewed from the rear to engage the clutch to the forward selector in neutral. To remove excessive slack, push in
gear. Place a piece of tape on the power head that is di- lightly on the shift cable during adjustment. Loosen the
rectly in line with the shift linkage lever. Make a mark that jam nut (6, Figure 23) and rotate the cable connector until
aligns 11ith the shift linkage lever when in forward. it aligns with its post (7) on the shift arm. Ensure the cable
5. Move the shift linkage lever (13, Figure 23) toward end threads onto the shift cable a minimum of 8 min
the rear of the engine until the bump or detent is felt when (0.3 14 in.). Securely tighten the jam nut. Install the shift
the reverse gear engages. Rotate the propeller shaft clock- cable to the shift arm and install the locking pin. Verify
Page: 171 Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke - 1997-2000 http:llwww.ReadManuals.Com
correct alignment of the shift lever and neutral switch. Re-
adjust the sliift cable as necessasy. Securely tighten all
fasteners. Synchronizer
15. Install the propeller. Connect the negative battesy ca-
ble (if so equipped). Install the spark plugs and spark plug
leads.
16. Operate the engine and check for proper shift engage-
ment. Verify proper operation of the net~tralswitch. The
engine n i ~ ~not
s t start if in gear. Make any cossections be-
fore returning the engine to service.
1. Remove the spark plugs and ground the spark plug

leads. Disconnect the negative battesy cable.
Nine). Remove the locking pin and carefblly pull the shift
linkage from the post (10, Figure 24) on the shift linkage
a m (I 1). a. Remove the locking pins and remove the shift link-
3. Move the shift linkage arm (1 1, Figure 24) toward the age from its post (15, Figure 24) on the shift linkage
front and rear of the engine to locate the neutral detent. and shift arm ( I 1).
The propeller shaft rotates freely in both directions in neu- b. Loosen the jam nuts (16, Figure 24) and evenly ro-
tral gear. Place a piece of tape on the power head that is di- tate the shift linkage connectors until the tip and
rectly in line with the shift linkage lever. Make a marking plunger align with the linkage installed. Enst~rethe
that aligns with the shift linkage a m . linkage connectors thread onto the linkage a mini-
4. Move the shift linkage arm (11, Figure 24) toward mum of 8 mm (0.314 in.).
tlie front of the engine until the bump or detent indicating c. Verify cosrect alignment and install the locking
fonvard gear engagement is felt. Rotate the propeller pins.
shaft counterclocl~wiseas viewed from the rear to fully 8. Position the shift arm (1 1, Figure 24) in nc~ltrz!d r i s g
engage the clutch to the forward gear. Place a piece of shift cable adjustment. Verify free propeiles shaft rotation
tape on the power head that is directly in line with the and cossect neutral switchltip alignment. Adjust the shift
shift linkage arm. Make a mark that aligns with the shift cable as follows:
linkage arm. a. Place the remote control or tiller control shift lever
5. hiove the shift linkage arm (I 1, Figure 24) toward in neutral gear. To remove excessix slack>push in
the rear of the engine until the bump or detent indicat- lightly on the shift cable during adjusttnents.
ing reverse gear engagement is felt. Rotate the propeller b. Loosen the jam nut and rotate tlie shift cable con-
shaft clockwise as viewed from the rear to fully engage nector (9, Figure 24) ~mtilit aligns with the shift le-
the clutch to the reverse gear. Place a piece of tape on ver post (10). Ensure the cable connector threads
the power head that is directly in line with the shift link- onto the cable a minimum of 8 mm (0.3 14 in.) and
age arm. Make a mark that aligns with the shift linkage securely tighten the jam n~it.
arm. c. Install the cable connector (9, Figure 24) onto the
6. Place the shift linkage arm (13, Figure 23) in netitral. shift am1 post (10) and install the locking pin.
Measure the distance from the neutral-to-fosward and 9. Cycle the remote or tiller control shift lever to check
neutral-to-reverse marks to detesmine the amount of shift for equal movement from neutral to engage forward and
selector movement. Position the shift lever at the mid- reverse gears. Readjt~stthe shift cable connector ~mtil
point between the fosward and reverse gear marks. Verify equal movement occurs. Verify proper gear engagement
the gearcase is in reverse gear. and alignment of the tip and sliift lever.
7. The tip of the shift lever must align with the netural 10. Install the propeller. Connect the negative battery ca-
switch (1 4, Figure 24) in neutral gear. Corsect misalign- ble (if so eqt~ipped).Instdl the spark plugs and spark plug
ment as follows: leads.
ATION AND AD 165
AND DF30 MODEL
1. Idle speed screw

2. Synchronizing screws
3. Pilot screws
4. No. 1 adapter plug
11. Operate the engine and check for proper shift engage- I . Remove the starboard side lower engine cover as de-
ment. Verify proper operation of the neutral switch. The scribed in Chapter FOLISunder Oil Filter Replacemei~t.
engine must not stast if in gear. Make any corrections be- Connect the shop tachometer following the manufac-
fore returning the engine to service. turer's instructions.
2. Remove the plug (6, Figure 29) from the No. 3 intake
sunner. Thread one of the adapters (Figure 28) hlly into
TOR SYNCHRONIZATION the plug opening. Connect the No. 3 hose of the synchro-
(DF 25 AND DF30 MODELS) nizer (Figure 30) to the adapter.
3. Start the engine and allow it to reach nosmal operating
Use an accurate shop tachometer and a carburetor syn- tenlperature. With the engine in neutral, adjust the idle
cllronizer (Figure 28). Purchase the syncl~ronizerfrom a speed with the idle speed screw (1, Figure 29) to 1000
tool supplier or Suzuki dealership (part No, rpm.
099 13- 13 12 1). The adapters (Figure 28) connect the syn- 4. Calibrate the synchronizer as follows:
chsonizer hoses to the intake manifold. These adapters are a. Hold the synchronizer in the vertical position and
included with the Suzuki offered syncllronizer. Obtain note the position of the floating steel ball (Figure
suitable adapters to prevent damage to the threaded open- 31). Rotate the No. 3 adjusting screw (Figure 30)
ings if using a different type of synchronizer. To ensure until the steel ball floats h a l h a y up the tube as indi-
the smoothest engine operation, synchronize the carbure- cated in Figure 31.
tors with the boat in the water or with the engine mounted b. Disconnect the No. 3 hose (Figure 30) from the
in a suitable test tank. adapter and connect the No. 2 hose to the adapter on
166 CHAPTER FIVE
hose
Steel
ball
screw
the No. 3 intake runner. Rotate the No. 2 adj~~sting

screw (Figure 30) until the steel ball floats half~vay
LIPthe tube as indicated in Figure 31.
c. Disconnect the No. 2 hose (Figure 30) from the
adapter and connect the No. 1 hose to the adapter on
the No. 3 intake sunner. Rotate the No. 1 adj~lsting
screw (Figure 30) until the steel ball floats half~vay
tip the tube as indicated in Figure 31.
d. Do not disturb the adjusting screws once calibrated.
Connect the No. 3 synchronizer hose (Figure 30) to
the adapter.
5. Switch the engine off. Remove the p l ~ ~ (4
g sand 5 , Fig-
ure 29) from the No. 1 and No. 2 intake runners. Carefiilly
thread the adapters fully into the plug openings. Connect
the No. 1 hose to the No, 1 adapter. Connect the No. 2 hose
to the No. 2 adapter.
6. Start the engine and allow it to reach norn~aloperating
temperature. Hold the synchronizer in a vertical position
and obsesve the floating steel balls. If the balls float half-
way up the tube and at the same height (Figure 32) the 7. Switch the engine off. Remove the adapters from the
synchronization is cosrect. Synchronize the carburetors as plug openings (4-6, Figure 29). Install and securely
follows: tighten the plugs.
8. Install the lower engine cover. Adjust the idle speed as
a. Adjust the synchronization screws (2, Figure 29) described in this chapter.
until all three balls float halfway up the tube.
b. Cosrect the idle speed as described in Step 3 if the
PILOT S C W W ADJUSTMENT
idle speed varies during adjustment.
c. Advance the throttle to 2000 rpm and then return to Pilot screw adjustment is required on earlier DF9.9,
idle speed. Allow the idle to stabilize and observe DF15, DF25 and DF30 models. Later models use a fixed
the floating balls. Perform additional adjustments pilot jet in place of an adjustable screw. Some models
as necessary. have a tamper resistant plug covering the pilot screw. Do
SYNCRONIZATIQN AND ADJUSTMENT 167
1. Locate the carburetor pilot screw (Figure 34) on the

starboard side of the power head.
2. Refer to Table 2 to determine the adjustment specifica-
tion and if an adjustable screw is used.
3. Lightly rotate the pilot screw (Figure 34) clockwise
until it just contacts the internal seat. Do not use excessive
force.
4. Back the screw out so it is halfivay between the specifi-
cation in Table 2.
1. Refer to Table 2 to determine the adjustment specifica-

tion and if an adjustable screw is used.
2. Locate the pilot screws (3, Figure 29) on the starboard
side of each carburetor.
3. Lightly rotate the top pilot screw clockwise until it just
contacts the internal seat. Do not use excessive force.
4. Back the screw out so it is halfivay between the specifi-
cation in Table 2.
5 . Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for the middle and bottom pilot
screws.
IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT
To ensure corsect adjustment, adjust the idle speed with

the boat in the water or with the engine mounted in a suit-
able test tank. Always adjust the idle speed with the corsect
propeller installed. Idle speed specifications are in Table 3.

not remove the plug and attempt adjustment on such mod-
1. Install a shop tachometer following the manufacturer's
els. Locate the carburetor ID number on the mounting
instructions. Stast the engine and allow it to reach normal
flange of the carburetor (Figure 33). Refer to Table 2 for
operating temperature.
pilot screw settings.
2. Place the throttle control in the idle position. Shift the
engine into fosward gear. Allow a few minutes for the idle
CA UTION to stabilize.
Use extreme cautioii when seatitig the pilot
screw. The tapered seat is easily damaged { f 3. Refer to Table 3 to detennine the corsect idle speed.
excessive ,force is used. fimz the screw Note the idle speed on the tachometer. Rotate the idle
lightly mzd stop when resistance isjelt. speed screw (Figure 34) until the idle speed is correct.
4. Have an assistant advance the throttle to 2000 rpm,
then quickly return the throttle to idle. Allow a few min-
NOTE
On models with rmltijde curburetot~s,aqust utes for the idle to stabilize then note the idle speed. Read-
each cmb~we~orpdot s u e w to the same po- just the idle speed as necessary.
sition ~lnlessspecijically instructed to do 5. Shift the engine into neutsal. Switch the engine off and
otlieiwise. remove the tachometer.
168 CHAPTER FIVE
OF INTAKE MANIFOLD
DF25 and DF30 Models 5. Synchronize the carburetors as described in this

chapter if a rough or unstable idle occurs after idle
NOTE speed adjustment. Readjust the idle speed after syn-
DF25 and DF30 models use a diislipol to chronization.
prevent the engine from stalling during 6. Shift the engine into neutral. Switch the engine off and
decelleration. Adjust the daslipot (as de- remove the tachometer.
scribed in this chapter) if a high idle speed
cannot be corrected by ad/usting the idle
weed screw. DF40 and DF50 Models
1. Install a shop tachometer following the manufacturer's 1. Install a shop tachometer following the manufacturer's
instructions. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal instructions. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal
operating temperature. operating temperature. Adjust the idle speed with the en-
2. Place the throttle control in the idle position. Shift the gine in neutral gear.
engine into forward gear. Allow a few minutes for the idle 2. Place the throttle control in the idle position. Using
to stabilize. locking pliers, pinch the hose connecting the throttle body
3. Refer to Table 3 to determine the correct idle speed. to the idle air control valver closed (Figure 35).
Note the idle speed on the tachometer. Rotate the idle 3. Remove the rubber plug from the idle speed screw
speed screw (1, Figure 29) until the idle speed is correct. opening (Figure 36). Slowly turn the idle speed screw un-
4. Have an assistant advance the throttle to 2000 rpm, til the idle speed reaches 800 rpm.
then quickly return the throttle to idle. Allow a few min- 4. Have an assistant advance the throttle to 2000 rpm.
utes for the idle to stabilize then note the idle speed. Read- then slowly return the throttle to idle. Allow a Sew minutes
just the idle speed as necessary. for the idle to stabilize then note the idle speed. Readjust
the idle speed as necessary. Press the rubber plug into the
idle speed screw opening.
5. Remove the locking pliers from the hose. Have an as-
sistant shift the engine into forward gear. Note and record
the idle speed. Compare the idle speed with the specifica-
tion listed in Table 3. Test the idle air control valve if the
Idle speed screw
idle speed is incorrect.
6. Shift the engine to neutral. Switch the engine off and
remove the tachometer.
1. Install the shop tachometer to the engine following the

manufacturer's instructions. Start the engine and allow it
to reach normal operating temperature. Adjust the idle
speed with the engine in neutral.
2. Place the throttle control in the idle position. Using
locking pliers, pinch the hose connecting the throttle body
to the idle air control valve closed (Figure 37).
3. Remove the rubber plug from the idle speed screw
opening (Figure 37). Slowly turn the idle speed screw un-
til the idle speed reaches 800 rpm.
4. Have an assistant advance the throttle to 2000 rpm,
then slowly return the throttle to idle. Allow a few minutes
for the idle to stabilize and note the idle speed. Redjust
the idle speed as necessary. Press the rubber plug into the
idle speed screw opening.
5. Remove the locking pliers from the hose. Note and re-
cord the idle speed. Compare the idle speed with the
specification listed in Table 3. Test the idle air control
valve as described in Chapter Three if the idle speed is
incorrect.
6. Switch the engine off and remove the tachometer.
Breather tube
CHOKE SOLENOID AND CHOKE LINKAGE
Choke solenoid and linkage adjustment is not required,

provided the linkage and solenoid are installed correctly
and the linkage is not damaged.
Incorrect operation is usually the result of bent or clam-
aged linkage. Correct any bent or damaged linkage, then
check for proper operation. Move the solenoid slightly
within its mounting clamp to correct minor maladjust-
merit.
DASHPOT ADJUSTMENT
Idle air control valve Idle speed screw
A dashpot is used on DF25 and DF30 models. Adjust
the dashpot if the engine stalls upon deceleration. Im-
proper adjustment may cause a high idle speed that cannot
be corrected by adjusting the idle speed screw. Use a shop
tachometer for this adjustment. Adjust the dashpot with
the engine in neutral. Adjust the dashpot as follows:
1. Connect a shop tachometer to the engine following the
manufacturer's instructions. Start the engine and allow it
to reach normal operating temperature.
2. Move the throttle lever until the engine reaches ap-
proximately 3000 rpm. Observe the tachometer while
quickly returning the throttle to the idle position. Correct
dashpot adjustment causes the engine speed to hold at ap-
proximately 1500 spm for a few seconds before slowly
falling to normal idle speed (Table 3).
3. Adjust the dashpot holding speed as follows.
a. On manual start models, remove the manual stai ter
b. On electric start models, remove the flywheel cover
as described in Chapter Eight.
c. Locate the dashpot on the port side of the top carbu-
retor. Loosen the nut (Figure 38) on the dashpot
mount.
d. Rotate the dashpot counterclockwise on the mount 4. Shift the engine into forward gear and attempt to oper-
to raise the holding speed. Rotate the dashpot clock- ate the manual starter. Repeat this check with the engine in
wise to lower the holding speed. Repeat Steps 2 and reverse gear. Correct operation prevents the starter from
3 until correct operation occurs. Securely tighten operating with the engine in gear. Repair the manual
the nut. starter as described in Chapter Ten if incorrect operation
e. Install the rewind starter or flywheel cover. Repeat occurs.
Step 2 to check for correct operation. Perform addi-
5. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the negative
tional adjustment as necessary.
battery cable (if so equipped).
4. Switch the engine off and remove the tachometer.
NEUTRAL-ONLY START CABLE DF25 and DF30 Models
Adjust the neutral-only start cable after installation of 1. Remove the spark plugs and ground the leads. Discon-
the manual starter and if incorrect operation of the mecha- nect the negative battery cable (if so equipped).
nism occurs. Refer to the instructions for the selected 2. Shift the engine into neutral. Locate the mark (Figure
model. 40) on the manual starter housing. The center of the cam
(Figure 40) should align with the mark.
3. Adjust the cable as follows:
a. Follow the neutral only start cable to the cable
1. Remove the spark plugs and ground the leads. Discon- bracket on the starboard side of the power head
nect the negative battery cable (if so equipped). (Figure 40).
2. Shift the engine into neutral gear. Locate the mark b. Loosen both adjusting nuts (Figure 40). Hold the
(Figure 39) on the manual starter housing. The slot on the cable from rotating and turn the lower adjusting
stopper lever (Figure 39) should align with the mark. nut until the cam and mark align as described in
3. Adjust the cable as follows: Step 2.
a. Follow the neutral only start cable to the cable c. Securely tighten the upper then lower adjusting
bracket just above the shift linkage. nuts. Check the adjustment and correct if neces-
b. Loosen both jam nuts (Figure 39) and rotate the ad- sary.
justing nut until the mark and slot align as described 4. Shift the engine into forward gear and attempt to oper-
in Step 2. ate the manual starter. Repeat this check with the engine in
c. Securely tighten the jam nuts. Check the adjustment reverse gear. Correct operation prevents the starter from
and correct if necessary. operating with the engine in gear. Repair the manual
Stopper lever
Cable
Cable bracket
Mar
starter as described in Chapter Ten if incorrect operation

40) DF25 AND DF30 MODELS
occurs.
5. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the negative
battery cable (if so equipped).
TRIM POSITION SENDER

Mark
This section provides adjustment instructions for the
trim position sender. On models with an analog gauge,
check the reading on the gauge when the engine reaches
the fully down position. The needle should reach the
down mark at the same time the engine reaches its down
limit. The trim position sender (Figure 41) is located on
the inside of the port side clamp bracket.
On models with the digital gauge, check the reading
Adjusting when the engine reaches the fully down position. One seg-
nuts ment on the gauge (Figure 42) should be on with the en-
gine in the fully down position.
1. Raise the engine to the full tilt position, and secure it to
prevent it from falling.
2. Loosen the screws (Figure 41) until the sender just
moves on the mount when pushed with a screwdriver. Re-
172 CHAPTER FIVE
move the block and position the engine in the fully down
position. TRIM TAB ADJUSTMENT
3. Access the sender from the gap between the clamp
bracket and swivel bracket with small screwdrivers (Fig-
ure 42).
4. Move the sender slightly within its adjusting slot until
the correct reading occurs on the gauge.
5. Raise the engine to access the screws and block the en-
gine. Securely tighten the sender retaining screws (Figure
41).
6. Remove the blocks, then operate the trim to the up and
down limits to check for proper gauge operation. Readjust
as required.
Starboard ' I
TRIM TAB
Excessive steering torque causes the engine to pull or a. Pulls to theport side-Move the trailing edge of the
steer easier to one side. Trim tab adjustment can reduce or trim tab to the port side.
eliminate steering torque. Determine the direction of pull b. Pulls to the starboardside -Move the trailing edge
(Figure 43) and adjust the trim tab as follows: to the starboard side.
4. Securely tighten the trim tab bolt. Slowly rotate the
1. Shift the engine into neutral gear. Disconnect the nega-
propeller to ensure it does not contact the trim tab. Contact
tive battery cable (if so equipped). Remove the spark
indicates an incorrect or improperly installed trim tab. Re-
plugs and ground the leads.
place the trim tab as needed.
2. Locate the trim tab just above the propeller. Loosen but 5. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the negative
do not remove the bolt located in the middle of the trim tab battery cable (if so equipped).
body. 6. Operate the engine and check for excess steering
3. Adjust the trim tab as follows: torque. Readjust as necessary.
TABLE 1 VALVE CLEARANCE SPECIFICATIONS

1 Model Clearance
DF9.9, DF15
Intake valve 0.08-0.12 mm (0.003-0.005 in.)
Exhaust valve 0.13-0.17 mm (0.005-0.007 in.)
DF25, DF30
Intake and exhaust valve 0.1 3-0.1 7 mm (0.005-0.007 in.)
DF40, DF50
Intake and exhaust valve 0.18-0.24 mm (0.007-0.009 in.)
DF60, DF70
Intake valve 0.1 1-0.15 mm (0.004-0.006 in.)
Exhaust valve 0.13-0.17 mm (0.005-0.007 in.)
TABLE 2 PILOT SCREW SETTING

ode1 Turns out
DF9.9
ID No. 93EOO and 93E01 11116-1 3/16
ID NO.93E02 1 114-1 314
ID No. 93E20 and 93E21* -
DF15
ID NO. 93E10 318-718
ID NO.93E11 314-1 1I4
ID No. 93E30 and 93E31* -
DF25
ID No. 89JOO* -
ID No. 89J20* -
ID NO. 89J40 1 114-1 314
ID NO. 89J60 1 114-1 314
DF30
ID No. 89J10 and 89J30* -
ID No. 89J50 and 89J70 1 114-1-314
T h e pilot screw is pre-set. No adjustment is required.
TABLE 3 IDLE SPEED

Model rPm 1
DF9.9, DF15
Forward gear
DF25, DF30
Neutral gear
Forward gear
DF40, DF50
Forward gear
DF60, DF70
Neutral gear
Forward gear
TABLE 4 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Fastener N*m ft.-lb. in.4b.
Valve adjuster locknut
DF9.9, DF15 10 - 88
DF 25, DF30 11 - 97
DF60, DF70 17 13 -
(continued)
Chapter Six
Fuel System
This chapter provides instructions on removal, repair WARNING

and installation of all fuel system components. Diagrams Fuel leakage can lead to fire or explosion.
provide assistance with fuel hose routing. Refer to these Always check for and correct fuel leakage
when removing and installing components. after any repair is made to thefuel system.
Torque and other fuel system specifications are in Ta-
bles 1-3 at the end of the chapter. Use the standard torque Always use gloves and eye protection when working
listed in the Quick Reference Data for fasteners not listed with the 'ystem. Take necessary precautions
in Table 3. against fire or explosion. Always disconnect the negative
battery cable before servicing any outboard. Pay close at-
tention when removing and installing components, espe-
FUEL SYSTEM SERVICE PRECAUTIONS cially carburetors, to avoid installing them in the wrong
location. Mark them if necessary.
WARNING
Use caution when working on the fuel sys-
tern. Never smoke or allowflames or sparks Fuel Jets
in the work area. Flames or sparks can ic- -
nite fuel or vapor, resulting in a fire or ex-
plosion. Fuel jets meter the fuel flow through various passages
in the carburetor. They, along with other components, al-
WARNING low the carburetor to deliver the precise amount of fuel
Always disconnect the negative batteiy ca- needed for the engine. Fuel jet sizes may vary by model
ble before working on the engine. and carburetor location. Fuel jets normally have a jet
176 CHAPTER SIX
number stamped on the side or end (Figure 1). Makc a

drawing indicating the fuel jet number and location within
the carburetor prior to its removal. Take all necessary
steps to ensure that the fueljets and other carburetor com-
ponents are reinstalled in the correct location.
Purchase replacement fuel jets at a Suzuki dealership or
carburetor specialty shop. For proper engine operation,
replacement fuel jets must have the same size and shape of
opening as the original fuel jets. Improper engine opera-
tion or potentially serious power head damage can result
from using incorrect fuel jets.
Operating the engine at elevations higher than 5000 ft
(1 524 m) may require alternate fuel jets to achieve opti-
mal engine operation. When necessary, contact a Suzuki
dealership with experience in high altitude operation for
information on fuel jet changes.
Use care and patience when removing fuel jets and
other threaded or pressed-in components. Clean the pas-
sage without removing the jet or other component if they
cannot be removed without incurring damage. Carburetor
fuel jets are easily damaged if the screwdriver slips in the
slot. Never install a damaged jet in the carburetor. The
fuel or air flow characteristics may be altered. Altering the
fuel and air flow can cause an engine malfunction or po-
tentially serious power head damage.
Gaskets, Seals and O-rings
To avoid potential fuel or air leakage, replace all dis-

placed or disturbed gaskets, seals or O-rings anytime a
fuel system component is removed from the engine. Have
the required gasket or repair kit on hand prior to removal
and disassembly of the components.
Avoid making your own gasket using commonly avail-
able gasket material. Small pieces of material from the cut
edges may break free and block the fuel jets and other pas-
sages in the carburetor.
Cleaning Fuel System Components
The most important step in carburetor repair is the

cleaning process. Use a good quality solvent, suitable res-
ervoir for the solvent and a cleaning brush to remove the
deposits that commonly occur in the fuel system. Spray
type carburetor cleaners are available at most auto parts
stores. They are effective in removing most stubborn de-
posits. Avoid using any solvents that are not suitable for
aluminum.
Remove all plastic or rubber components from the fuel
pump, carburetor or filter assembly before cleaning them
with solvent. Gently scrape away gasket material with a
FUEL SYSTEM 177
FUEL SYSTEM DIAGRAM

DF9.9 AND DF15 MODELS DF25 AND DF30 MODEL
1. Quick connector
2. Low pressure fuel filter
3. Fuel pump
4. Bottom carburetor
5. Middle carburetor
1. Quick connector
6. Top carburetor
2. Low pressure fuel filter 7. Bowl drain hoses
3. Fuel pump
4. Bowl drain hose
5. Carburetor
Fuel Filter (Low Pressure)
blunt tip scraper. Never scrape away any material other This section provides removal and installation instruc-
than the gaskets from the component. Use a stiff cleaning tions for the low pressure fuel filter. Refer to Electronic
brush and solvent to remove deposits from the carburetor Fuel Injection in this chapter to replace the high pressure
bowl. Do not use a wire brush as delicate sealing surfaces fuel filter. DF9.9 and DF15 n~odelsuse an in-line type fuel
can quickly become damaged. Blow out all passages and filter (Figure 3). All other models use a canister fuel filter
orifices with compressed air (Figure 2). A piece of straw (Figure 4). Both types are non-serviceable and must be
from a broom works well to clean out small passages. replaced if contaminated. Refer to Figures 5-8 to assist
Never use stiff wire for this purpose as the wire may en- with fuel hose connection points,
large the size of the passage, possibly altering the carbure-
1. Disconncct the negative battery cable (if so equipped).
tor calibration. Allow the component to soak in the
solvent for several hours if the deposits are particularly 2A. On DF9.9, DF 15, DF25 and DF30 models, discon-
difficult to remove. nect the remote fuel tank hose from the engine.
One small particle left in the carburetor can cause a seri- 2B. On all other models, trace the fuel tank hose to locate
ous malfunction. Never compromise the cleaning process. the engine fuel hose coupling. Remove the clamps and
Continue to clean until all deposits and debris are re- carefully disconnect the fuel supply hose.
moved. 3. Locate the fuel filter for the selected model.
178 CHAPTER SIX
FUEL SYSTEMS DIAGRA

DF40 AND DF50
1. Supply hose
2. Low pressure filter
3. Pump
4. Pressure regulator
5. Vapor separator tank
6. High pressure filter
7. No. 1 injector
8. No. 2 injector
9. No. 3 injector
10. Idle air control valve
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models, trace the fuel connec- 7. Position the new filter on the power head with the fit-
tor hose to the fuel filter (Figure 3) on the lower tings orientated as noted prior to removal. Install and se-
port side of the power head. curely tighten the filter mounting fasteners (if used).
b. On DF25, DF30, DF40 and DF50 models, trace the 8. Slide the inlet and outlet hoses fully onto their fittings.
fuel supply hose to the fuel filter located directly be- Install the fuel hose clamps over the hose and fittings.
low the fuel pump on the lower starboard side of the 9. Observe the fuel hose fittings for fuel leakage and
cylinder head. squeeze the primer bulb. Correct any fuel leaks before op-
erating the engine. Clean up any spilled fuel.
c. On DF60 and DF70 models, the filter is located on
the lower front and port side of the power head.
4. Cut and discard the plastic tie clamps used on some
hoses. Remove the spring type hose clamps. Fuel Hoses, Fittings and Connectors
5. Position a container or clean shop towel below the fuel NOTE
filter. Note the orientation of the fuel hose fittings before The fuel pressure regulator is mounted
removing the filter. Carefully pull the hoses from the fuel within the vapor separator tank on 1999-011
filter fittings. Manipulate the hose carefully to avoid DF60 and DF70 models, On earlier models
bending or breaking the fuel hose fittings. Replace hoses the regulator is mounted to the bottom of the
that are hard or brittle. If it is necessary to cut the hose, use fuel rail. Thefuel hose routing is very simi-
care to avoid damaging the fuel hose fitting. Inspect all lar to DF40 and DF50 models. DF60 and
spring clamps for corrosion or lack of spring tension. Re- DF70 models use four fuel injectors and a
separate fuel rail.
place any faulty or questionable hose clamps.
6. Remove the fasteners (if used) that retain the filter to Refer to Figures 5-8 for correct hose connections and
power head. Pull the filter from the power head. routing. Use only Suzuki replacement hoses that meet US
FUEL SYSTE 179
1. Fuel supply hose

2. Low pressure fuel
filter
3. Fuel pump
4. Vapor separator tank
5. High pressure fuel
filter
6. No. 1 fuel injector
10. Pressure regulator
11. Idle air control valve
12. Silencer
Coast Guard requirements for marine applications. Never Refer to Fuel Injection if working with the high prcs-
install a fuel hose that is smaller in diameter than the origi- sure fuel hoses on EFI models.
nal hose. Replace both ends of quick connector type clamps if ei-
Inspect all fuel hoses, and replace hoses that feel sticky, ther side leaks. If replacing the quick connector on the fuel
spongy, are hard and brittle or have surface cracks. Re- tank hose end, position the connector over a container
place hoses that have splits on the ends. Do not simply cut suitable for holding fuel. Remove and discard the hose
off the split end and reattach the hose. The hose will likely clamp. Pull the fuel hose from the connector. Slide the
split again and lead to a potentially dangerous fuel leak. hose onto the new connector. Install a new hose clamp
To avoid hose failure or interference with other compo- onto the hose and tighten it securely.
nents, never cut the replacement hose shorter or longer When replacing the clamp at the engine end, locate the
than the original. When one fuel hose on the engine re- screw that retains the clamp to the engine cover. Remove
quires replacement, others are likely to have similar de- the screw and move the disconnected hose end over a con-
fects. Replace all fuel hoses on the engine to ensure a tainer suitable for holding fuel. Remove and discard the
reliable repair. hose clamp. Slide the fuel hose fully onto the new connec-
Connectors used on fuel hoses include the quick con- tor. Install a new fuel hose clamp and tighten it securely.
nector (Figure 9), spring type hose clamp (Figure 10) and Place the connector into position and install the retaining
plastic locking tie clamp (Figure 11).Use the same size screw. Tighten it securely.
and type of clamp that was originally on the engine. To en- The plastic locking tie clamps must be cut to be rc-
sure the correct clamp is used, replace it with the correct moved. Some plastic locking tie clamps are not suitable
Suzuki part number. for marine applications and may fail. Use only the Suzulii
180 CHAPTER SIX
replacement hose clamps. After placing the clamp into

position, pull the end through the clamp (Figure 11) until
the hose fastens securely and will not rotate on the fitting. FUEL LINK QUICK
Avoid pulling the clamp too tight as the clamp may be CONNECTOR (TYPICAL)
damaged and loosen or fail.
Remove the spring clamps by squeezing the ends to-
gether with pliers while carefully moving the clamp away
from the fitting. Replace the clamp if it is corroded, bent,
deformed or has lost spring tension.
Fuel Tank
Two types of fuel tanks are used with Suzuki 4-stroke

outboards. They include the portable fuel tank (Figure
12) and built-in fuel tanks. Fuel tanks mounted onboard
(portable or built-in) are commonly referred to as remote
mounted fuel tanks.
Suzuki offers fuel tanks constructed of steel (Figure
12) or plastic (Figure 13). Either type can be used 011
4-stroke models. Portable fuel tanks are manufactured by
several different companies and your Suzuki outboard
may be equipped with any one of them. The types of coin-
ponents used, cleaning and repair instructions are similar
for all brands of fuel tanks. Refer to a reputable marine re-
pair shop or marine dealership when parts are needed for
aftermarket fuel tanks.
Built-in fuel tanks may be used on all models. They are
often times difficult to locate in the boat and access in
some cases is almost impossible. On some applications
removal of major boat components is required to access
the tank. Fortunately, access panels are installed in most
boats to provide access to fuel line fittings and the fuel
level sender assembly.
Portable fuel tanks may require periodic cleaning and
inspection. Inspect the remainder of the fuel system for
potential contamination if water is found in the tank. Use
Suzuki silicone seal (part No. 99000-32 120) on all screws
upon installation. Use only enough to coat the threads and
underside of the screw head. Excessive amounts can re-
sult in contamination of the fuel system.
1. Remove the fuel hose connector and fuel tank cap
(Figure 12 or Figure 13). Empty the tank into a suitable
container.
2A. On steel fuel tanks remove the screws that retain the
pickup (14, Figure 12) to the fuel tank. Carefully remove
the fuel meter and float (if so equipped) from the tank.
Never force the assembly as damage may occur. Rotate or
tilt the assembly as needed during removal. Remove the
gasket between the pickup and fuel tank.
2B. On plastic fuel tanks unthread then lift the pickup tube
(8, Figure 13) from the tank. Remove the O-ring (10, Fig-
ure 13) from the tank or pickup tube.
UEL SYSTE
STEEL FUEL TANK
1. Quick connector
2. Clamp
3. Clamp
4. Primer bulb
5. Clamp
6. Clamp
7. Quick connector
8. Quick connector
9. Gasket
10. Cover
11. Gasket
12. Window
13. Gasket
14. Pickup assembly
15. Screw
16. Float
17. Clip
18. Gasket
19. Fuel tank
20. Seal
21. Seal cap
?A. On steel fuel tanks check for free movement of the Empty the solvent, then dry the tank dry with compressed
float arm on the fuel pickup assembly (14, Figure 12). Re- air.
place the assembly if binding cannot be corrected by 7. Inspect the internal and external tank surfaces. Note
bending the float arm into the correct position. the presence of rusted or corroded surfaces or debris. Re-
3B. On plastic fuel tanks check for free vertical movement place the tank if internal or external corrosion or damage
of the float on the fuel cap (5, Figure 13). Replace the cap is present. Replace the tank if fuel leakage is noted. Re-
assembly if binding occurs. peat Step 6 if residual deposits or debris remain in the
tank.
4. Inspect the float. Replace the float if any physical dam-
age is noted or it appears to be saturated with fuel. 8. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, noting the fol-
lowing:
5. Remove and inspect the fuel screen from the bottom of
the pickup tube. Inspect the screen for damage or block- a. Clean all debris or contaminants from the
age. Clean or replace this screen as required. adapter-to-fuel tank gasket surfaces.
6. Add a small amount of solvent to the fuel tank. Block b. Install a new gasket (18, Figure 12) between the
the fuel metering assembly opening (steel tank) or pickup pickup assembly (14) and the fuel tank (19).
tube opening (plastic tank) with a shop towel. Install the c. Install a new O-ring (10, Figure 13) between the
fuel tank cap. Shake or agitate the tank for a few minutes. pickup tube (8) and the tank (1 1).
182 CHAPTER SIX
PLASTIC FUEL TANK
1. Supply hose
2. Quick connector
3. Clamp
4. Primer bulb
5. Fuel cap
6. Seal
7. Quick connector
8. Pickup tube
9. Screen
10. O-ring
11. Tank
d. Take all precautions against bending the fuel meter-

ing rod when installing the pickup assembly (14,
Figure 12) into the fuel tank.
9. Check for and correct all fuel leakage before returning
the engine to service.
Built In Fuel Tanks
The only components that can be serviced without nia-

jor disassen~blyof the boat include the fuel pickup, fuel
fill, fuel level sender and antisiphon device. These com-
ponents are available from many different suppliers. Re-
moval and inspection instructions vary by model and
brand. Contact the tank manufacturer or boat manufac-
turer for specific instructions. Always replace any gasket 3. Squeeze the primer bulb until fully collapsed. Replace
or seal if they are disturbed or suspected of leaking. the bulb if it does not freely expand or if it sticks in the col-
lapsed position. Replace the bulb if it appears weathered,
Primer Bulb has surface cracks or is hard to squeeze.
4. Inspect the file1 hoses for wear, damage or the presence
The primer bulb (Figure 14) connects into the fuel line of leaks. Replace both fuel hoses if defects are noted.
between the fuel tank and the engine. This section pro-
vides instructions for replacing the primer bulb. Refer to 5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the direc-
Chapter Three for primer bulb testing instructions. tion of flow as the new bulb is installed onto the fuel hose.
AITOWSare present on the new bulb to aid correct
1 Disconnect the hose that connects the file1 tank to the
installation. The arrow must align with the direction of
engine. Drain the fuel from the hose into a suitable con-
tainer. Remove and discard the fuel hose clamps at both fuel flow toward the engine. Carefully slide the fuel hoses
onto the fittings on the primer bulb.
primer bulb connections.
2. Note the arrow direction on the primer bulb, then re- 6. Install new fuel clamps at the fuel hose connections.
move the primer bulb from the fuel hoses. Drain any se- Gently squeeze the primer bulb and check for any indica-
maining fuel from the primer bulb into a suitable tions of fuel leakage. Correct any fuel leaks before return-
container. ing the engine to service.
FUEL SYSTEM 183
LOW PRESSURE FUEL PUMP
This section provides removal, repair and installation

instruction for the low pressure fuel pump (Figure 15).
Refer to Figures 5-8 to assist with fuel hose connection
points. Have a shop towel and a suitable container handy
as fuel will likely spill from the disconnected hoses. To
ensure correct assembly and hose routing, mark the orien-
tation of the fuel pump relative to the power head before
removal.
Removal and Installation

2. On DF9.9 and DF15 models remove the lower engine
B FUEL PUMP COMPONENTS

covers as described in Chapter Four under Oil Filter Re-
placement.
3. Set the engine at TDC as described in Chapter Five un-
ALL MODELS der Valve Adjustment. Do not remove the rocker arm
cover.
4. Refer to the following for fuel pump locations.
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models the fuel pump is lo-
cated on the rear of the rocker arm cover.
b. On DF25 and DF30 models the fuel pump is located
on the starboard side of the cylinder head (Figure
15).
c. On all other models the fuel pump is located on the
rear of the rocker arm cover.
5. Loosen both mounting bolts then pull the pump away
from the rocker arm cover.
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models pull the spacers and
bolts from the fuel pump.
b. On DF60 and DF70 models carefully pull the push
rod from the mount opening in the rocker arm cover.
6. Using pliers, remove spring hose clamps by squeezing
the ends together. Note all hose connections prior to re-
moving them.
7. Position a suitable container or clean shop towel below
the fuel pump. Carefully pull the hoses from the pump fit-
tings. Manipulate the hoses carefully to avoid bending or
breaking the fittings. Remove and replace hoses that are
1. Outer cover hard or brittle. Use care when cutting the hose to avoid
2. Diaphragm damaging the file1 hose fitting. Inspect all spring clamps
3. Pump body
for corrosion or a lack of spring tension. Replace any
4. Plunger
5. Spring faulty or questionable hose clamps.
6. Screw 8. Remove the O-ring (10, Figure 16) from the fuel pump
7. Piston or rocker arm surface. Discard the O-ring.
8. Pin 9. Thoroughly clean and inspect the fuel pump mounting
9. Spring
10. O-ring
surfaces. Dirty or damaged mating surfaces lead to oil
11. Pump mounting base leakage.
10. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the fol-
lowing:
a. On DF60 and DF70 models apply oil to tlie push rod
surfaces and carefully slide it into the mounting
bore.
b. Apply a coating or oil and install a new O-ring (10,
Figure 16) to the fuel pump.
c. Tighten the fuel pump mounting bolts to the specifi-
cation provided in Table 3.
d. Gently squeeze the primer bulb while checking for
fuel leakage. Correct any fuel leaks before returning
Repair
Repair or replacement of the carburetor or power head

mounted fuel pump is possible without removing the car-
buretor or most other fuel system components. However,
consider that the conditions that caused failure of the fuel
pump (debris, varnish, broken or brittle gaskets) are likely
present in other fuel system components. These coinpo-
nents may also need cleaning and repair. Repair only the
fuel pump if certain that the carburetor or other fuel sys-
tem components are in good condition.
Replace all gaskets, diaphragms and seals during as-
sembly. Check for proper operation and the presence of
fuel leakage after completing the repair. Correct all fuel
leakage before returning the engine to service.
CA UTION
Do not apply gasket sealing compound to using a suitable solvent. Dry all components with ~0111-
any fuel pump component. Small particles pressed air.
of compound may break free and blockfuel 7. Inspect the surfaces of the fuel cover, body and base ( 1,
system passages. 3, 1 1, Figure 16) with a straight edge. Inspect gasket sur-
faces for scratches, voids or any irregularities. Inspect the
1. Remove the fuel pump as described in this section. fuel pump body for cracks. Replace warped 01- damaged
2. Mark the orientation of the front and back fuel pump components.
covers relative to the fuel pump body. Remove the screws 8. Inspect the fuel pump check valves for bent, cracked or
(6, Figure 16) from the fuel pump. corroded surfaces. Replace the fuel pump body if defects
3. Carefully pry the outer cover (1, Figure 16) from the are noted with the check valves.
fuel pump body (3). Avoid damaging the gasket surface.
9. Align the slotted portion of the plunger (,4. Figure 16)
4. Remove the diaphragm (2, Figure 16) from the outer with the hole in the piston (7) and the slot in the mounting
cover (1) or pump body (3). Carefully pry the fuel pump base. Push in on the plunger and piston (4 and 7. Figure
body (3, Figure 16) from the pump mounting base (1 1). 16) to compress the springs (5 and 9).
5. Push the plunger (4, Figure 16) in until the spring (5) is
10. Install the pin through the openings. Rotate the
fully compressed. Rotate the plunger on the pump mount-
plunger 90Âto position the pin away from the slot in the
ing base until the pin (8, Figure 16) aligns with the slot in
mounting base. Release the plunger and piston.
the mounting base. Maintain pressure on the plunger
6. Use a small screwdriver to push the pin from the 11. Install new gaskets and diaphragms. Use the screw
pump mounting base and plunger. Release the pressure hole locations in tlie gaskets and diaphragms for proper
and lift the plunger and spring (4 and 5, Figure 16) from orientation. All gaskets and diaphragms must be orien-
the mounting base. Pull the piston and spring (7 and 9, tated as indicated in Figure 16.
Figure 16) from the mounting base. Clean the fuel pump 12. Align the marks made in Step 2.
FUEL SYSTE 185

3. Carefully pull the choke linkage from the slot (A, Fig-
ure 17) in the silencer cover.
4. Support the carburetor while removing the carburetor
mounting bolts (B, Figure 17). Pull the silencer cover (C,
Figure 17) from the carburetor. Reinstall the bolts (B,
Figure 17) to retain the carburetor to the intake manifold.
5. Use a suitable solvent to clean the silencer cover
mounting surfaces. Inspect the cover for cracked or dam-
aged surfaces. Replace the cover if defective.
6. Support the carburetor and remove both mounting
bolts (B. Figure 17). Align the cover with the carburetor.
Install the mounting bolts into the openings in the cover
and the carburetor. Tighten the carburetor mounting bolts
to the specification in Table 3.
7. Carefully slip the choke linkage into the slot (A, Fig-
ure 17).
8. Install the lower cover
Check for and correct any fuel leakage before returning

ter Four under Oil Filter Replaement.
3A. On manual start models remove the manual starter as
3B. On electric start models remove the flywheel cover as
4. Locate the fuel drain hose and screw on the bottom car-
buretor (A and B, Figure 18). Direct the free end of the
drain hose into a suitable container. Open the screw and
drain all fuel from the float bowl. Close the drain screw.
Repeat this step for the remaining two carburetors.
5. Remove the carburetors and silencer cover from the in-
take manifold as follows:
a. Remove the bolts (Figure 19) from the cover and
cylinder block.
b. Remove the E-clip (Figure 20) and disconnect the
13. Install and securely tighten the screws (6, Figure 16). throttle linkage from the bottom carburetor.
Install the fuel pump as described in this section. c. Remove the bolts and lift the fuel filter from the
power head. Locate and disconnect the fuel hose
connecting the fuel pump to the carburetors.
SILENCER COVER d. Remove the bolts and nuts (Figure 21) that secure
-
the carburetors and silencer cover to the intake man-
DF9.9 and DF15 Models ifold.
6. Remove the cover-to-carburetor mounting plate
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped). screws.
186 CHAPTER SIX
7. Remove the gasket material from the rear carburetor 6. Install the flywheel cover as described in Chapter
mounting plate and intake manifold. Use a suitable sol- Eight.
vent to clean the silencer cover and carburetor mounting 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
surfaces.
8. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the follow-
CARBURETOR
ing:
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
a. Install new gaskets to the intake manifold mating
surface. This section provides removal, repair and installation
b. Tighten all fasteners to the specification listed in instruction for the carb~iretor(s).Refer to Figure 5 and
Table 3. Figure 6 to assist with fuel hose connection points. Note
c. Gently squeeze the primer bulb and check for fuel the routing and connection points for all hoses prior to dis-
leakage. Correct any fuel leaks before returning the connecting them. Have a shop towel and a suitable con-
engine to service. tainer handy as fuel will likely spill from the disconnected
hoses. Inspect all fuel hoses for defects. Replace brittle,
leaking, or weathered hoses.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped). DF9.9 and DF15 Models
Eight. Disconnect the breather hose from the silencer 1. Remove the silencer cover as described in this chapter.
cover. 2. Disconnect the fuel hose connecting the fuel pump to
3. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the back of the manual the carburetor(s). Drain residual fuel from the hose.
to identify the wire color used for the air temperature sen- 3. Direct the carburetor drain hose into a suitable con-
sor. Disconnect the wire connector from the air tempera- tainer. Open the drain screw and drain the fuel from the
ture sensor. float bowl. Close the drain screw.
4. Carefully pry the throttle linkage from the port side of
4. Pull the silencer cover away from the throttle body.
the carburetor. Disconnect the choke linkage from the top
Wipe the cover clean with a shop towel and suitable sol-
of the carburetor.
vent.
5. Lift the carburetor from the intake manifold. Carefully
5. Align the cover and throttle body openings. Push the
scrape the gasket material from the carburetor and intake
cover onto the throttle body. Clean the terminals and at-
manifold surfaces. Repair the carburetor as described in
tach tlie connector to the air temperature sensor. Connect
this chapter.
the breather hose to the silencer cover.
6. Installation is the reverse on ren~oval.Note the follow-
6. Install the flywheel cover as described in Chapter
ing:
Eight.
a. Install a new carburetor mounting gasket.
7. Connect the negative battery cable. b. Tighten the carburetor and silencer mounting bolts
to the specification listed in Table 3.
DF60 and DF70 Models c. Inspect fuel hose clamps for defects and replace if
defective.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped). d. Push the fuel pump hose fully over the carburetor
2. Remove the flywheel cover as described in Chapter hose fitting and secure with a clamp.
Eight. Disconnect the breather hose from the silencer e. Gently squeeze the primer bulb while checking for
cover. fuel leakage. Correct any fuel leaks before returning
3. Remove the bolt securing the silencer cover to the in- the engine to service.
take manifold.
4. Pull tlie silencer cover away from the throttle body. DF25 and DF30 models
Wipe the cover clean with a shop towel and suitable sol-
vent. 1. Remove the silencer cover as described in this chapter.
5. Align the cover and throttle body openings. Push the Carefully pry the throttle and choke linkage from the car-
cover onto the throttle body. Install the bolt into the cover buretors.
and intake manifold. Securely tighten the bolt. Connect 2. Remove the six nuts and lift the front mounting plate
the breather hose to the silencer cover. and supports from the carburetors.
FUEL SYSTE 187
dcii~icigecan result from improper fuel cali-

Damaaed Good bration.
CA UTION
Never use steel wire to clean carburetor
passages. Material can be removed from the
inner diameter of the orifice, disturbing the
fuel calibration. Carburetor replacement
may be required ifpassages are damaged
during the cleaning process.
NOTE
Never compromise the cleaningprocess for
the carhiiretor(s). Residual debris or depos-
its in the carburetor may break free at a
3. Disconnect the fuel supply hose from each carburetor. later time and block passages. Use com-
Mark the carburetor mounting location and lift them from pressed air and blow through all passages
to ensure they are completely clear.
the rear mounting plate.
4. Remove the insulator and both mounting gaskets from CAUTION
each pair of carburetor mounting studs. Carefully scrape L 4 / ~ t ~ qreplace
~.s damaged carburetor fuel
the gasket material from the mating surfaces. Repair the jets Seemingly insignificant damage to ale1
carburetors as described in this chapter. can have a profound effect on fuel delivery
5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the follow- Adverse effects to engine performance and
ing: durability can result from using damaged
carburetor fuel jets
a. Install new carburetor mounting gaskets.
b. Tighten the carburetor mounting nuts to the specifi- CA UTION
cation listed in Table 3. Later models are equipped with a tamper re-
c. Inspect fuel hose clamps for defects and replace if sistunt cover over the pilot adjusting screw.
defective. Do not remove the cover or tamper with the
screw adjustments on these models. 1m-
d. Push the fuel pump hose fully over the carburetor proper engine operation and/or increased
hosc fittings and secure them with a clamp. exhaust emissions can result from an im-
e. Synchronize and adjust the carburetors as described properly adjusted pilot screw.
in Chapter Five.
I. Drain the fuel from the carburetor and inspect it for
contaminants. Inspect the entire fuel system if the pres-
CARBURETOR OVERHAUL ence of water or other debris is noted. Failure to correct
the cause of contamination may cause the symptoms to re-
To ensure success when rebuilding carburetors, always occur after the carburetor is rebuilt.
work in a clean environment. Mark all hosc connections 2. Disassemble the carburetor as described in this section.
during removal and refer to the illustrations to ensure cor- If jet removal is difficult, soak the carburetor in solvent
rect hose routing and orientation. On multiple-carburetor first. Do not use excessive force to remove the jets. If a jet
engines, repair one carburetor at a time. Some models cannot be removed without damaging in, clean the carbure-
have fuel and air jet sizes calibrated to the cylinder in tor without removing the jet. Replace damaged jets.
which they supply fuel. Always perform all applicable 3. Use a suitable solvent and clean all deposits fro111 the
carburetor and linkage adjustments as described in Chap- carburetor passages, fuel jets, orifices and float bowl. Use
ter Five. compressed air and blow through the passages.
4. Place all components on a clean surface. Arrange the
CA UTION
components consistent with the illustrations in this sec-
Make certain that all fueljets are instolled
into the correct location in the carburetor. tion.
Improper,fuel calibration will result if fuel 5 . Inspect the sealing surface of the fuel inlet valve (nee-
jets are installed incorrectly or it~stalledin dle) (Figure 22) for damage. Inspect the valve seat for pit-
the wrong location. Improper engine operci- ting, worn or irregular surfaces. Replace worn or damaged
tion or, i11 some cases, severe power head components.
188 CHAPTER SIX
6. On models so equipped, inspect the pilot screw for

worn or damaged surfaces (Figure 23). Replace as re-
quired.
la)
7. Check the float (Figure 24, typical) for free movement
on the carburetor body. Inspect the pin and body if the
float does not move freely. If the float does not move
freely, float height will be inconsistent. Correct float
height is critical for proper carburetorlengine operation.
Replace parts as required to achieve free float movement
and correct float height (Table 2).
8. Inspect the float for damage. Look for fuel inside trans-
lucent types. On other types, push your thumbnail gently
against the surface material. A leaking or saturated float is
indicated if file1 appears at the point of contact. Replace
the float if either of these conditions is noted.
9. Move the throttle lever (Figure 25) from the closed to
full open positions. Remove the throttle plate and repeat
this step if binding or rough operation is noted. If the
throttle continues to bind a damaged throttle shaft is indi-
cated.
Refer to Figure 26.

1. Remove the bowl drain screw (22, Figure 26) and
drain any residual fuel from the carburetor.
2. Remove the screws (19, Figure 26) and remove the
float bowl (2 1) from the carburetor. Remove and discard
the gasket (24).
3. Carefully pull the float pin (28, Figure 26) from its
mounting bosses and lift the float (23) from the carbure-
tor.
4. Lift the inlet needle (9, Figure 26) from the seat (8).
Remove the screw and clamp (10 and 11) from the carbu-
retor. Use needle nose pliers to pull the seat (8) from the
carburetor.
5. Pull the cap (12, Figure 26) from the main nozzle (25).
Unthread the main jet (26) from the carburetor casting.
Use a properly sized screwdriver and avoid using exces-
sive force to remove the main nozzle (25) from the carbu-
retor.
6. Remove the pilot jet (3, Figure 26). Remove the pilot 8. Clean all surfaces and passages completely. Inspect all
screw and spring (4 and 5). Do not remove the screw on components for cracked or worn areas and replace them as
models with a tamper resistant cover. Remove the idle required.
speed screw and spring (2 and 1).
9. Install the seat (8, Figure 26) into the carburetor. Re-
7. Remove the cap and boot (13 and 14, Figure 26)
tain the seat with the clamp and screw (10 and 11). Se-
from the accelerator pump shaft (16). Unthread the
curely tighten the screw.
pump retainer (15) and lift the pump shaft (16), and
spring (1 8) from the float bowl. Remove and discard the 10. Thread the main nozzle (25, Figure 26) securely into
O-ring (1 7). the carburetor. Thread the main jet (26) securely into the
FUEL SYSTE 189
CARBURETOR COMPONENTS
DF9.9 AND DFI 5 MODELS
1. Spring
2. Idle speed screw
3. Pilot jet
4. Pilot screw
5. Spring
6. Accelerator pump screw
7. Spring
8. Seat
9. Inlet needle
10. Clamp
11. Screw
12. Cap
13. Cap
14. Boot
15. Retainer
16. Pump shaft
17. O-ring
18. Spring
19. Screw
20. Fuel hose
21. Float bowl
22. Bowl drain screw
23. Float
24. Gasket
25. Main nozzle
26. Main jet
27. Carburetor casting
28. Float pin
carburetor casting. Place the cap onto the exposed end of

the main nozzle with the protrusion facing in.
11. Place the needle valve into the seat with the pointed
tip facing the seat. Install the float and pin onto the carbu-
retor. Install the inlet needle (9, Figure 26) into the seat
(8) with the pointed end facing in. Place the float (23) onto
the inlet needle and install the float pin (28).
12. Adjust the float level as follows:
a. With the float gently resting on the needle valve and
pivot pin, measure the float height at the points indi-
cated in Figure 27.
b. Compare the measurement with the float height
c. Remove the float and carefully bend the float arm
tab (Figure 28) to change the float level.
d. Repeat this step until the float level measurement is
I 1 correct.
190 CHAPTER SIX
13. Install the spring (18, Figure 26) and a new O-ring
(17) into the accelerator pump bore. Thread the retainer
and pump shaft (15 and 16) fully into the pump bore. Slip
the boot (14) onto the pump shaft and retainer. Push the
cap (13) onto the pump shaft.
14. Install a new gasket (24, Figure 26) onto the carbure-
tor and carefully position the float bowl onto the carbure-
tor. Install and securely tighten the bowl retaining screws
(19). Install and securely tighten the bowl drain screw
(22).
15. Turn the accelerator pump screw (6, Figure 26) to
achieve a gap of 0.1-0.5 mm (0.004-0.020 in.) between
the pump lever and cap (13).
16. Ifremoved, install the pilot screw and spring (4 and 5,
Figure 26). Adjust the pilot screw as described in Chapter
Five.
7 . Install and securely tighten the pilot jet (3, Figure
26). Install the idle speed screw and spring (2 and 1). In-
stall the carburetor as described in this chapter.
9. Clean all surfaces and passages completely. Inspect all
components for cracked or worn areas and replace them as
required.
Refer to Figure 29. 10. Install the O-ring and seat (25 and 24, Figure 29) into
the carburetor. Retain the seat with the damp and screw
I. Remove the bowl drain screw (33, Figure 29) and
(22 and 2 1). Securely tighten the screw.
drain any residual fuel from the carburetor.
2. Remove the four screws (35, Figure 29) and remove I I Thread the main nozzle (26, Figure 29) securely into
the float bowl (34) from the carburetor. Remove and dis- the carburetor. Thread the main fuel jet (3 1) securely into
card the gasket (30). the carburetor casting. Place the O-ring and cap (27 and
28) onto the exposed end of the main nozzle with the pro-
3. Carefully pull the float pin (19, Figure 29) from its
trusion facing in.
mounting bosses and lift the float (20) from the carbure-
tor. 12. Place the needle valve into the seat with the pointed
tip facing the seat. Install the float and pin onto the carbu-
4. Lift the inlet needle (23, Figure 29) from the seat (24).
retor. Install the inlet needle (23, Figure 29) into the seat
Remove the screw and clamp (2 1 and 22) from the carbu-
(24) with the pointed end facing in. Place the float (20)
retor. Use needle nose pliers to pull the seat (24) from the
onto the inlet needle and install the float pin (19).
carburetor. Remove the O-ring (25) from the seat.
5. Pull the cap and O-ring (28 and 27, Figure 29) from 13. Adjust the float height as follows:
the main nozzle (26). Unthread the main jet (3 1) from the a. With the float gently resting on the needle valve and
carburetor casting. Use a properly sized screwdriver and pivot pin, measure the float height at the points indi-
avoid using excessive force to remove the main nozzle cated in Figure 27.
(26) from the carburetor. b. Compare the measurement with the float height
6. Remove the pilot jet (3, Figure 29). Remove the pilot specification listed in Table 2.
screw and spring (4 and 5). Do not remove the screw on c. Remove the float and carefully bend the float arm
models with a tamper resistant cover. Remove the idle tab (Figure 28) to change the float height. Repeat
speed screw and spring (1 and 2). this step until the float height measurement is cor-
7. Remove the cap and boot (13 and 14, Figure 29) from rect.
the accelerator pump shaft (17). Unthread the pump re- 14. Install the spring (18, Figure 29) and a new O-ring
tainer (15) and lift the pump shaft (17), and spring (18) (16) into the accelerator pump bore. Thread the retainer
from the float bowl. Remove and discard the O-ring (16). and pump shaft (15 and 17) fully into the pump bore. Slip
8. Remove the main air jet (29, Figure 29) from the car- the boot (14) onto the pump shaft and retainer. Push the
buretor throat. cap (1 3) onto the pump shaft.
FUEL SYSTEM 191
CARBURETOR COMPONENTS
1. Idle speed screw

2. Spring
3. Pilot jet
4. Pilot screw
5. Spring
6. Solenoid bracket
7. Screw
8. Spring
9. Screw
10. Accelerator pump screw
11. Spring
12. Carburetor casting
13. Cap
14. Boot
15. Retainer
16. O-ring
17. Pump shaft
18. Spring
19. Float pin
20. Float
21. Screw
22. Clamp
23. Inlet needle
24. Seat
25. O-ring
26. Main nozzle
27. O-ring
28. Cap
29. Main air Jet
30. Gasket
31. Main jet
32. Fuel hose fitting
33. Bowl drain screw
34. Float bowl
35. Screw
192 CHAPTER SIX
THROTTLE BODY
1. Pivot bolt
2. Cable pivot pin
3. Connector
4. Jam nut
5. Linkage
6. Gasket
7. Throttle body
8. Washer
9. Throttle lever
10. Bushing
11. Washer
12. Bolt
15. Install a new gasket (30, Figure 29) onto the carbure- take all steps necessary to prevent contami-
tor and carefully position the float bowl onto the carbure- nation.
tor. Install and securely tighten the bowl retaining screws
(35). Install and securely tighten the bowl drain screw Relieving the System Pressure
(33).
16. Turn the accelerator pump screw (10, Figure 29) to 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
achieve a gap of 0.1-0.5 mm (0.004-0.020 in.) between 2A. On DF40 and DF50 models disconnect the harness
the pump lever and cap (1 3). connector from the three ignition coils.
17. If removed, install the pilot screw and spring (4 and 5 , 2B. On all other models disconnect and ground the spark
Figure 29). Adjust the pilot screw as described in Chapter plug leads.
Five. Install and securely tighten the pilot jet (3). Install 3. Operate the electric starter 10 times in 3 second inter-
the idle speed screw and spring (1 and 2). vals to relieve the fuel system pressure.
18. Install the carburetor as described in this chapter. 4. Reconnect the coil or spark plug lead(s) after complet-
ing the repair. Connect the negative battery cable.
FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM

Throttle Body
This section provides removal and installation instruc-
1. Remove the silencer cover as described in this chapter.
tions for the fuel injection system. Repair instructions for
Disconnect the wire harness from its connection to the
the vapor separator tank are also included.
throttle position switch.
CA UTION 2. Carefully pry the throttle linkage (5, Figure 30) from
Even minute particles of dust can contami- the throttle lever (9).
nate thefuel injection system. Use only lint 3. Remove the Allen bolts and carefully pull the throttle
free towels to clean the fuel injection com- body from the intake manifold. Remove the gasket (6,
ponents. Work in a clean environment and Figure 30) from the intake manifold or throttle body.
FUEL SYSTE
5. On DF40 and DF50 models loosen the clamps and re-

8 TIGHTENING SEQUENC
move the water inlet and outlet hoses from the vapor sepa-
rator tank.
AND DF70 MODEL 6. On DF60 and DF70 nlodels disconnect the hoses from
the low pressure fuel pu~npas described in this chapter.
7. Drain the fuel from the vapor separator tank as de-
scribed in Chapter Three.
8. Remove the high pressure f ~ ~ filtere l as described in
this chapter.
9. Label then disconnect all fuel hoses from the vapor
separator tank. Drain the hoses as removed. Pro~nptly
clean up any spilled fuel.
10. Remove the thsottle body as described in this chapter.
11. On DF60 and DF70 models remove the low pressure
f~1e1filter, fuel injectors and the file1 rail as described in
this chapter.
12. Note the connection points and disconnect any re-
maining hoses or wire connectors from the intake ~nani-
fold.
13. On DF60 and DF70 models remove the oil dipstick
and tube.
14. Support the intake manifold while removing the bolts
and nuts. Carefully pry the intake ~nanifoldfiom the cyl-
inder head. Remove the vapor separator tank as described
in this chapter.
15. Remove the screws and lift the water jacket cover
4. Remove the bolt (12, Figure 301, throttle lever (9). from starboard side of the manifold.
washers and spacers. 16. Caref~~lly scrape all gasket material from the mating
5. Installation is the reverse of removal noting to: surfaces.
a. Install a new gasket (6, Figure 30) during installa- 17. Use a quick drying solvent to thoroughly clean all re-
tion. moved components.
b. Securely tighten the Allen bolts. 18. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the fol-
lowing:
c. Apply a light coating of grease to all pivot points.
a. Coat the surfaces with Suzuki bond (part No.
d. Connect the wire harness to the throttle position 99000-31030) and install 71ew gaskets at all loca-
switch. Route the wires to avoid interference. tions during assembly
b. On DF40 and DF50 models tighten the intake
mo~mtingbolts in a crossing pattern to the specifica-
Intake Manifold
tion in Table 3.
(DF40, DFSO, DF60 and DF70 Models)
c. On DF60 and DF70 models tighten the intake
mounting bolts in sequence (Figure 31) to the spec-
Refer to k p o r Separator Tank in this chapter to iden- ification in Table 3.
tify the hose connection points. Refer to the wiring dia-
d. Route the wises and hoses to avoid interference and
g r a m at the back of the manual to assist with locating the
connect them as labeled in Step 9.
sensors and other components attached to the manifold.
e. Securely tighten all fasteners.
I . Relieve the system pressure as described in this chap- f, Check for and corrcct f ~ ~leakage
el before operating
ter. the engine.
2. Remove the silencer cover as described in this chapter.
3. Disconnect the throttle linkage from its pivot point on Fuel Filter (High Pressure)
the throttle body.
4. Remove the lower engine covers as described in Chap- Refer to Vbpor Separator Tank in this chapter to iden-
ter Four under Oil Filter Replacement. ti@ the hose connection points. Label the hoses and con-
194 CHAPTER SIX
nection points befose disconnecting them. On DF40 and

DF50 models tlie filter is located on the uppcr port side of
the power head. On DF60 and DF70 models the filter is VAPOR SEPARATOR TANK
located on the lower port side of the power head. ODELS DF40, DF5O9DF60AND DF70
1. Relieve the system pressure as described in this chap-
ter.
2. Remove the lomer engine cover as described in Chap-
ter Four under Oil Filter Replacenzent.
3. Remove the clamps and note the orientation of the fil-
ter. Carefully pull tlie hoses from the fittings on each end
of tlie filter. Drain residual fuel from the hoses.
4. Remove the two bolts and the filter from the power
head. Drain residual he1 from the filter.
5. Inspect the filter for rusted or damaged surfaces and re-
place as needed.
6. Installation is the reverse of renioval. Note the follow-
ing:
a. Securely tighten the filter mounting bolts.
b. Push the hoses f~illyonto the fittings and secure
them with clamps.
c. Route the hoses to avoid interference.
d. Check for and cossect fuel leakage before operating
the engine.
Vapor Separator Tank
This section provides removal, repair and installation

instructions for the vapor separator tank. Replacement of
the high pressure fuel pump is included in the repair in-
structions. Refer to Figure 32 or Figure 33 to assist with regulator
hose connection points and component orientation.
DF40, DFSO, DF6O m d DF70 models (1999-012)

6. PLIIIthe electric pump slightly away from the cover
Refer to Figure 32. and disconnect the wire harness.
1. Remove the intake manifold as described in this chap- 7. Inspect the screen on the bottom end of the electric
tes. pump for contamination or damage. Replace the screen as
2. Remove the mounting bolts and lift the tank from the required.
starboard side of the intake manifold. Make reference 8. Clean all removed components in a suitable solvent.
marks on tlie top cover and the tank. Remove the O-ring Inspect the sealing surface (Figure 22) of tlie f~1e1inlet
from the cover. valve (needle) for damage. Inspect the valve seat for pit-
3, Remove the screws and lift the cover fsoni the tank. ting, worn or isregulas surfaces. Replace worn or damaged
Remove the float pin and lift the float and inlct valve fioin components.
the cover. Remove tlie screw located near thc inlet valve 9. Inspect the float and pin for worn or damaged surfaces
seat. Remove the plate and valve seat from the cover. and replace if defective.
4. Lift the plastic deflector plate from the top cover. Re- 10. Assen~blyis the reverse of disassembly. Note the fol-
move the screw and fuel pressure regulator from the tank. lowing:
Remove the O-ring from the regulator fitting. a. Install new O-rings in all locations d ~ ~ r i assembly.
ng
5. Remove tlic SCICW and lift the pump bsacket fiom t l ~ Apply f~1e1 to the O-ring psior to installing it to the
cover. fuel pressure regulator.
UEL SYSTEM 195
1. Remove the intake iiianifold as described in tliis chap-

ter.
VAPOR SEPARATOR TANK 2. Remove the three ino~mtingbolts and lift the tank from
ODELS DF60 AND DF7 the starboard side of the intake manifold. Make reference
( I 997-1998) inarks on the top cover and the tank. Remove the O-ring
f i o n ~the cover.
3. Remove the screws and lift the cover from the tank.
Remove the float pin and lift the float and inlet valve fro111
the cover.
4. Remove the screw located near the inlet valve seat. Re-
mox e the plate and valve seat from the cover.
5. Inspect the screen on the bottom end of the electric
pump for contamination or damage. Replace the screen as
required.
6. Clean all removed components in a suitable solvent.
Inspect the sealing surface (Figure 22) of tlie fuel inlet
valve (nccdle) for damage. Inspect the valve seat for pit-
ting, worn or irregular surfaces. Replace won1 or damaged
colnponents.
7. Inspect the float and pin for worn or dainaged surfaces
and replace if defective.
8. Assen~blyis the reverse of disassenibly. Note the fol-
lowing:
a. Install new O-rings in all locations during assembly.
b. Apply a light coating of Suzuki bond (part No.
99000-31140) to the cover and tank mating sur-
faces. Do not apply sealant to the O-ring or the mat-
ing surfaces inside the O-ring.
c. Align the reference marks made on the cover and
tank during disassembly.
d. Seci~relytighten all screws.
Fuel drain
Fuel Pump (High Pressure)
Removal and installation of the high pressure fuel pump

is included in the repair i~~struction
for the vapor separator
b. Apply a light coating of Suzuki bond (part No. tank.
99000-3 1140) to the cover and tank mating sur-
faces. Do not apply sealant to the O-ring or the mat-
Fuel Pressure Regulator
ing surfaces.
(1997-1998)
c. Align the reference marks made on the cover and
tank during disassembly. The fuel pressure reg~ilatoris mounted to the bottom of
d. Securely tighten all screws. the he1 rail on 1997- 1998 DF60 and DF70 niodels. The
fuel pressure regulator is installed within the vapor sepa-
rator tmk on all 1999-on models. Refer to Vapor Separa-
tor Tank in this chapter for replacement i~~stiuctions.
1. Relieve the system pressure as described in tliis cliap-
Do not semobe the electric fuel pump from tlie top ter. Disconnect the negative battesy cable.
cover on these inodels. Replace tlie vapor separator tank 2. Remove the lower engine cover as described in Chap-
(Figure 33) if the electric he1 pump is faulty. ter FOLKunder Oil Filter Replacement.
3. Place a small container suitable for holding file1 under
the fuel pressure regulator (6, Figure 34).
4. Loosen the clamp (7, Figure 34) and carefidly pull the FUEL RAIL, INJ
hose (1 1) from the regulator. Drain residual fuel from the RESSURE REGULATOR
hose.
5, Loosen the screws and pull the regulator awdy from
the fuel rail (4, Figure 34). Remove the screws and the
regulator after all fuel has drained from the rail. Remove
the O-ring from the regulator fitting.
6 , Clean the regulator to fuel rail mating surfaces with a
quick drying solvent and lint free towels.
7 . Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the follow-
ing:
a. Install a new O-ring onto the regtdator fitting.
b. Apply fuel to the regulator O-ring prior to installa-
tion.
c. Tighten the regulator retaining screws to the speci-
fication listed in Table 3.
Fuel Rail and Injectors
The fuel injectors are mounted to the intake manifold

on DF40 and DF50 models. A fuel passage in the intake
manifold eliminates the need for a separate he1 rail. A
dedicated fuel rail (Figure 34) is used on DFGO and DF70
models. Install new O-ring seals and grommets during as-
sembly. Note the connection points and routing of all
hoses prior to removing them. Refer to the instructions for
the selected model.
DF40 and DFSO ntodels
1. Relieve the system pressure as described in this chap-

ter. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 1. Bolt
2. Remove the lower engine covers as described in Chap- 2. Sealing washer
3. Rail mounting bolt
ter Four. 4. Fuel rail
3. Use compressed air to remove all debris from the in- 5. Sealing washer
jectors and intake manifold. 6. Fuel pressure regulator
4. Push in on the retaining clip and carehlly pull the con- 7. Clamp
a. BOI~
nector (5, Figure 35) from the injector (2). 9. Sealing washer
5. Remove the screw and retainer from the injector body 10. Regulatorlhosefitting
and intake manifold. II . Fuel return hose
6. Carefidly manipulate the injector while pulling it from 12. Clamp
13. Fuel outlet hose
the intake manifold. Remove the O-rings (1 and 3, Figure 14. Clamp
35) from the injector (2). 15. Clamp
7. Remove the grommet (4, Figure 35) from the injector 16. O-ring
or the injector opening in the manifold. Repeat Steps 3-7 17. Grommet
18. Seal
for the remaining injectors.
19. Seal
8. Clean all contaminants using a suitable solvent and lint 20. Spacer
fi-ee toN2ls.
FUEL SYSTEM 197
6. Remove the fuel pressure regulator as described in this

chapter.
L INJECTOR REMOVAL 7. S ~ ~ p p othe
r t fuel rail (4, Figure 34) and rcmovc tllc two
AND DF50 MOD bolts (3) and spacers. Caref~dlypull the file1 rail and in.jec-
tors from the intake manifold.
8. Remove the seal (1 9, Figure 34) from the f~lelinjec-
tors or injector openings in the inanifold.
9. Pull the fuel injectors from the fuel rail (4, Figure 34).
Remove the grommet and O-ring ( I 6 and 17, Figure 34)
from the fuel injectors or the injector openings in tllc f k l
rail.
10. Remove the bolt and sealing washer ( 1 and 2, Figure
34) from the top of the fuel rail.
11. Make reference n~arkson the f~ielrail (4, Figure 34)
and reg~ilator/l~ose fittings. Remove the bolt (8, Figure
34). reg~~latorlhose fitting (10) and sealing washers fiom
the file1 rail.
12. Clean all removed components using a s~~itable sol-
vent and lint free towels.
I. O-ring 13. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the fol-
2. Injector lowing:
3. O-ring a. Install I I ~ W seals, grommets, O-rings and sealing
4. Grommet
wasl~crs.
5. Connector
b. Apply fuel to the O-rings before insialling tllein.
c. Do not pinch or damage the O-rings while installing
thc injectors.
9. I~~stallationis the reverse of removal. Note the follow-
d. Align the reference marks on the rcgulatorlhose fit-
ing:
tings.
a. Install new O-rings, grommets and seals during in- e. Tighten all fasteners to the specification listed in
stallation Table 3.
b. Apply fuel to all O-rings before installing them to f. Check for and correct f ~ ~leakageel before opcrating
the injector. the engine.
c. Caref~~lly manipulate the injectors while installing
them into the openings. Do not pinch or damage the
O-rings. Throttle Position Switch
d. Securely tighten the screw for the injector retainer. The tllrottle position switch is calibrated to the throttle
e. Check for and corrcct fuel leakage before operating body. Replace the throttle body assembly if the swiich is
the engine. faulty.
System Relay
1. Relieve the system pressure as described in this chap- Removal, testing and installation instructions for this
ter. Disconnect the negative battety cable. component are covered in Chapter Three.
2. Remove the Iowcr engine covers as described in Chap-
ter Four. Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
3. Use compressed air to remove all dcbris from the in-
jectors and intake manifold. 1. Remove the silencer cover as described in this chapter.
4. Push in on the retaining clip and carefully pull the con- 2. Refer to the wire diagrams at the back of the manual
nector from the injectors. and located the IAC valve as follows:
5. Loosen the clamps and remove both hoses (I I and 13, a. On DF40 and DFS0 models the valve is ino~~nted to
Figure 34) from the f ~ ~rail.
el the starboard side of the throttle body.
198 CHAPTER SIX
b. On DF60 and DF70 models the valve is mounted to 5. Clean the sensor and cover or throttle body niating sur-
the intake manifold and just above the throttle body. faces.
3. Note the routing and connection points and carefidly 6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the follow-
disconnect the hoses and wires fi-om the valve. ing:
4A. On DF40 and DF50 inodels remove the screws and a. Securely tighten the mounting screws.
pull the valve and bracket from the power head. b. Route the wires to avoid iilterference.
4B. On DF60 and DF70 inodels remove the screws and re-
tainer. Pull the valve, flange and lubber gasket from the Cylinder and Exhaust Manifold
intake inanifold or valve. Temperature Sensors
5. Use a suitable solvent to clean the mating surfaces.
Removal and installation of these sensors is in Chapter
6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note tlie follow-
ing: Seven
a. Sec~irelytighten the mounting screws.
b. Ensure all hose and wires are connected and routed Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
to avoid interference
1. Discoimect the negative battesy cable.
2. Refer to the wire diagrams at the back of the manual
Engine Control Module (ECM) and located the MAP sensor as follows:
a. On DF40 and DF50 models the sensor is m o ~ ~ n t e d
ECM removal and installation is in Chapter Seven to the top of the intake manifold on the port side of
the power head.
b. On DF60 and DF70 models tlie sensor is mounted
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor to the fsont and post side of the power head above
the throttle body.
1. Disconnect the negative batte~ycable. 3. Note the routing and connection points and caref~illy
2. Refer to the wire diagrams at the back of the ii~anual disconnect the engine wire harness and hoses fsom the
and locate the IAT sensor as follows: sensor.
a. On DF40 and DF50 models the sensor is iiiounted 4. Carefully remove the mo~mtingscrews and the sensor
the bottom starboard side of the silencer cover. from the intake manifold or power head.
b. On DF60 and DF70 models the sensor is mo~mtcd 5. Clean the sensor and power head or manifold mating
to the top side of the throttle body. surfaces.
3. Note the routing and connection points and carefiilly 6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the follow-
disconnect the engine wire harness from the sensor. mg:
4. Caref~illyrcinove the mounting screws and the sensor a. Securely tighten the mounting screws.
froin the cover or throttle body. b. Route tlie wires to avoid interference.
TABLE I CARBURETOR JET SPECIFICATIONS

Model Jet No.
DF9.9
ID No. 93EOO
Main jet 86.3
Pilot jet 67.5
ID No. 93EOl
Main jet 91.3
Pilot jet 67.5
ID No. 93E02
Main jet 91-3
Pilot jet 72.5
ID No. 93E20 and 93E21
Main jet 86.3
Pilot jet 52.5
I (continued)
FUEL SYSTEM
TABLE 1 CARBURETOR JET SPECIFICATIONS (continued)

1 Model Jet No.
DF15
ID No. 93ElO and 93El I
Main jet
Pilot jet
ID No. 93E30 and 93E31
Main jet
Pilot jet
DF25
ID No. 89JOO and 89J20
Main jet
Pilot jet
ID No. 89J40 and 89J60
Main jet
Pilot jet
DF30
Main jet
Pilot jet
TABLE 2 FLOAT HEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS

DF9.9, OF15 16.6-18.6 mm (0.654-0.732 in.)
DF25, DF30 13.6-15.6 mm (0.535-0.614 in.)

N*m ft.-lb. in.-lb.
Carburetor I0 - 88
Intake manifold
DF9.9, DFI5 23 17 -
DF25, DF30 11 - 97
DF40, DF40
6 mm bolt I1 - 97
8 mm bolt 23 17 -
DF60, DF70 23 17 -
Fuel pump 10 - 88
Fuel rail or passage
DF40, DF50
T-fitting bolt 10 - 88
top Plug 35 26 -
bottom plug 35 26 -
DF60, DF70
rail retaining bolt 23 17 -
regulator/hose fitting 40 29 -
Fuel pressure regulator
DF60, DF70 10 - 88
Chapter Seven
Electrical and Ignition
This chapter provides removal and installation instruc- inspection does not detennine the problem2test the start-
tions for electrical and ignition system conlponents. In ad- i ~ i gsystem as described in Chapter Three.
dition, battery maintenance and testing instr~~ctions are
provided in this chapter.
Starter Relay
Specifications for the electrical system arc provided in
Tables 1-5 at the end of this Chapter. Usc the standard This section covers removal and installation of the
tightening torque for fasteners not listed in Table 5. Stan- starter relay (Figure 1). When necessaly for access, re-
dard torque specifications are listed in the Quick Refer- move the electrical component cover (Figure 2) from the
ence Data section at the front of the manual. power head.
2. Remove the mounting screw (Figure 1) and lift the
STARTING SYSTEM bracket with the starter relay from the power head.
3. Disconncct the yellowlgreen wire terminal from the
The starter motor is capable of prod~~cing very high starter button or engine wire harness. Remove the n~its
torque, but only for a brief time, due to rapid heat b u i l d ~ ~ p . and washers (Figure 1) then lift the whitelred, battery and
To prevent overheating, never operate the starter motor electric starter wires from the starter relay. P ~ dthe
l starter
contin~~ously for more than 10 seconds. Allow the motor relay from the arms of the bracket.
to cool for at least two minutes before further operation. 4. Installation is the reverse of removal, while noting the
If the starter motor does not crank the engine, check the following:
battely and all related wiring for loose or corroded con- a. Enstire all wire terminals are positioned to prevent
nections, shorted or open circuits or other defects. If this contact with each other or with other engine con~po-
Page: 208 Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke - 1997-2000 http:/~www.ReadManuals.Com
ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION 201
STARTER RELAY
(TYPICAL)
Blue
screw
I. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Refer to the wire diagrams at the back of the n~anual
and identify the wire colors used for the staster button. Lo-
cate thc starter button (2, Figure 3) wires on the underside
of the tiller control housing (4).
3. Tracc the brown and white wires of the starter button to
their co~mectionsto tlie ~icutral-only start switch and the
engine wire harness. Note the routing then disconnect
both wires.
4. Hold the staster button while removing the plastic nut
(3, Figure 3) from the back side of the button. Pull the
staster button from the tiller control bracket.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal, white noting the
following:
nents. Position the insulator over the large wire ter-
a. Clcan all wire termitials prior to connecting the~n.
n~inals.The whitelred wire m ~ ~ connect
st to the
same tesminal as the battery wire. b. Hand-tighten the plastic nut (3, Figure 3).
b. Securely tighten all fasteners. c. Route all wires to prevent interference with other
c. Routc all wires to prevent interference with otl~cr engine components.
engine components. d. Check for proper staster relay operation.
d. Check for proper starter relay operation.
Ignition Key Switch
Starter Button
An ignition key switch is used on all remote control
A staster button is uscd on electric start DF9.9. DFI 5. models and tiller control DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF70
DF25 and DF30 models with tiller control. Replace tlie models. Rcplace the ignition key switch as follows:
starter button as follows: 1. Disco~mectthe negativc battesy cable.
202 CHAPTER SEVEN
2A. On remote control models remove the ignition key

switch as follows:
a. Disassemble the remote control assembly (Chapter
Twelve) so that the ignition switch retainer (3, Fig-
ure 4) and wires (4) are accessible.
b. Disconnect the remote contr01 harness wires fiom
the ignition key switch wires (4, Figure 4).
c. Remove the switch retaining nut (3, Figure 4) and
remove the switch.
2B. On tiller control models remove the ignition key
switch as follows:
a. Remove the six screws (13, Figure 5) and lower the
cover (7) from the tiller a m (6).
b. Hold the ignition key switch (3, Figure 5) and
loosen the plastic retaining nut (2).
c. Pull the ignition key switch away from the tiller a m
e n o ~ ~ gtoh access the switch and tiller contsol wir-
ing.
d. Note the wire routing and connection points for
each wire. Disconnect the switch wires.
2C. Dash mounted ignition key switch, remove the igni-
tion key switch wires as follows:
a. Look under the dash and locate the wire tesminals
connecting the ignition key switch to the instrument
wire harness. Make a sketch of the wire routing and I. Oil pressure warning light
connection points while disconnecting the wires. 2. Starter button
b. Hold the ignition key switch while loosening the 3. Plastic nut
4. Tiller control housing
key side retaining nut. Pull the switch from the 5. Plastic nut
dash. 6. Lanyard cord
3. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the follow- 7. Lanyardistop switch
ing:
a. Clean all wire tesminals prior to connecting them.
b. Orient the ignition key switch to position the igni-
tion key in the vertical position if switched off.
c. Route all wires to prevent interference with moving
parts.
d. Securely tighten the retaining nut (3, Figure 4) or
(2, Figure 5).
e. Check for proper operation of the switch.
Neutral-Only Start Switch

and Neutral Switch.
The appearance and mounting location for either witch
is almost identical. The finction of the switch varies by
model and the type of stasting system.
An engine mounted neutral-only start switch is used on
1. Ignition key
electric start DF9.9, DFl5, DF25 and DF30 niodels. Cor- 2. Lanyard switch
rect operation of the switch prevents the electric starter 3. Retainer nut
from operating with the engine in forward or reverse gear. 4. Wire connectors
Mant~al start DF9.9 and DF15 models (serial No. 5. Warning buzzer
652501 -on) also use an engine mounted neutral-only stast
ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION
@ Switch
Ground wire
(not used on
all models)
Engine mounted switch
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Shift the engine

into forward gear.
2. Refer to the wire diagrams located at the back of the
manual and identify the wire colors leading to the switch.
1. Key 8. Grommet
2. Nut 9. Lanyard switch The switch is located on the engine near the shift linkage.
3. Key switch 10. Washer 3. Carefully disconnect the brown and yellowlgreen
4. Grommet 11. Nut switch wires from the engine wire harness or starter but-
5. Tiller control 12. Lanyard cord ton wires (tiller control models).
harness 13. Screw
14. Throttle shaft
4. Remove the mounting bolt (Figure 6 ) and ground wire
6. Tiller arm
7. Tiller arm notch (if used). Slip the switch from its mounting bracket.
5. Placc the switch onto the mounting bracket with the
spring or plunger side facing the shift linkage. Install the
ground wire (if used) and mounting bolt. Securely tighten
the mounting bolt.
6. Connect the brown and yellow/green switch wires to
switch. This switch prevents operation of the ignition sys-
the engine or starter button harness (tiller control models).
tern at cranking speed while in gear.
Route the wires carefully to avoid interference.
An engine mounted neutral switch is used on DF40,
7. Adjust the shift cables and linkage as described in
DF50, DF60 and DF70 models. Correct operation of the
Chapter Five.
switch prevents ignition and fuel injector operation during
8. Connect the negative battery cable. Verify correct oper-
attempts to start the engine while in gear. This switch does
ation of the switch before returning the engine to service.
not prevent operation of the electric starter.
On DF25 and DF30 models (with power trim) an addi-
tional switch is located within the remote control housing. Remote control mounted switch
This switch prevents operation of the electric starter if
shifted into gear. Other remote control models may have 1 . Disconnect the negative battery cable.
this switch if using an aftermarket remote control. Refer 2. Disassemble the remote control as described in Chap-
to a reputable marine dealership for information and parts ter Twelve until the neutral-only start switch is accessible.
for aftermarket controls. 3. Disconnect both brown wire terminals connecting the
Refer to the instructions for the mounting location of switch to the remote control harness. Remove the switch
the switch. from the remote control.
204 CHAPTER SEVEN
4. Install the switch into the control. Clean the terminals

then connect both brown switch wires to the remote con-
trol harness.
5. Assemble the remote control as described in Chapter
Twelve.
Starter Motor
This section provides instructions to remove and install

the electric starter.
I. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Eight to ensure all starter mounting bolts and nuts (Figure
7) are accessible.
3. Remove the terminal insulator (A, Figure 8) and nut
from the starter relay-to-electric starter cable connection.
Remove the starter ground wire (B, Figure 8) from the
starter motor. Mark the bracket and bolts to ensure proper
starter installation.
4. Support the electric starter while removing the starter
mounting bolts.
5A. On DF9.9 and DF 15 models remove upper and lower
bolts (Figure 9). Pull the starter away from the power
head.
5B. On DF25 and DF30 models remove both upper
mounting bolts spacers and alignment pins. Loosen the
bolts in the lower starter support enough to free the starter
from the lower mount and cushion. Pull the starter up and
away from the power head.
5C. On DF40 and DF50 models remove the silencer cover
from the front of the power head as described in Chapter
Six. Remove the upper mounting bolts. Remove the lower
bolts and pull the starter support from the starter. Pull the
starter away from the power head.
5D. On DF60 and DF70 models remove the silencer cover
fro!:: the front of the power head as described in Chapter
Six. Remove the upper mounting bolts. Support the starter
while removing the bolts from the lower support. Lower
the starter from the starter mounting bracket.
6. Use a solvent to clean all corrosion, oil residue or other
contaminants from the starter mounting surfaces. Inspect
rubber cushions for worn or damaged areas and replace as
necessary.
7. Installation is the reverse or removal. Note the follow-
ing:
a. Align the marks made prior to removal then place
the starter into position.
wire
b. Install then tighten the starter mounting bolts to the
c. Ensure all cables are routed to prevent interference.
ELECTRIC STARTER
(ALL MODELS)
1. Locking clip
2. Stopper
3. Spring
4. Pinion drive
5. Bushing
6. Upper cover
7. Washer
8. Washer
9. Washer
10. Helical splines
11. Armature
12. Bearing surface
13. Thrust washer(s)
14. Nut
15. Lockwasher
16. Nut
17. Lockwasher
18. Washer
19. Nut
20. Insulator
21. Throughbolt
22. Lockwasher
23. Washer
24. Lower cover
25. Brush spring
26. Brush plate
27. Brush
28. Screw
29. Frame
d. Place the insulator over the starter to relay cable ter- CA UTION
minal. Never drop or strike theframe of the starter
e. Check for proper starter and neutral-only start motor. The permanent magnets can crack or
switch operation. break, resulting i12starter nzoto~*failure
NOTE
Replace all O-rings, seals and gaskets ifre- Starter Motor Disassembly
moved or disturbed. Apply weather-strip
adhesive to the mating surfaces of all termi- This section provides complete starter disassembly,
nal insulators-to-starter housings on as- component inspection and assembly instructions. Refer to
sembly. Figure 10.
206 CHAPTER SEVEN
Reference
1 Remove the starter as described in this chapter.

2. With the starter mounted in a vise, grasp the stopper
(Figure 11) and push it toward the pinion drive to expose
the locking clip. Carefully pry the locking clip from the
armature shaft. Pull the stopper and spring from the arma-
ture shaft.
3. Turn the pinion drive (4, Figure 10) counterclockwise
to unthread it from the helical splines (10) on the anna-
ture.
4. Mark the end covers and frame with a permanent
marker for reference during assembly (Figure 12). Sup-
port the starter motor and remove both throughbolts (Fig-
ure 13).
5. Hold the armature in the frame assembly and carefully
pull the lower cover from the frame assembly (Figure
14). If necessary, lightly tap on the cover with a rubber
mallet. Remove the thrust washer(s) (13, Figure 10) from
the armature shaft or lower cover.
6. With the frame assembly placed on its side, lightly tap
the exposed end of the armature shaft with a mallet to re-
move the annature and upper cover (6 and 11, Figure 10)
from the frame (29).
7. Note the orientation of the thrust washers (7-9, Figure
10) before removing them. Wire them together to ensure
they are installed correctly on the armature shaft.
8. Remove the nut from the large terminal (Figure 15).
Slip the washers and insulators (18 and 20, Figure 10)
from the terminal.
9. Mark the brush plate and lower cover (24 and 26, Fig-
ure 10) to ensure correct orientation during assembly. Re-
move the screws that retain the brush plate to the lower
cover (Figure 16).
10. Use compressed air to remove all brush material from
the armature and lower cover.
11. Use a mild solvent to clean the components, except

the bnish plate and brushes. Clean the brush plate and
brushes with electrical contact cleaner.
12. Refer to Starter Motor Inspection prior to assembling
the electric starter motor.
Starter Motor Inspection
1. Inspect the pinion drive teeth (Figure 17) for chipped,

cracked or worn areas and replace it if needed. Inspect the
helical splines at the pinion end of the armature (1 0, Fig-
ure 10). Replace the armature if corroded, damaged or
worn.
2. Thread the pinion drive onto and off of the armature
shaft. Replace the pinion drive and/or armature if the pin-
ion drive does not thread smoothly onto the shaft.
3. Carefully secure the armature in a vise with soft jaws
(Figure 18). Tighten the vise only enough to secure the ar-
mature. Carefully polish the commutator using 600-grit
carburundum cloth (Figure 18). Rotate the armature often
to polish the commutator evenly and do not remove too
n-~uchmaterial.
4. Calibrate an ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.
a. Connect an ohmmeter between the commutator
segments and the laminated section of the armature
(Figure 19). No continuity should be present be-
208 CHAPTER SEVEN
tween any commutator segment and any laminated

section. If continuity is noted, the armature has a
shorted winding and must be replaced.
b. Connect the ohmmeter between the armature shaft
and each commutator segment. No continuity
should be present each commutator segment and the
annature shaft. If continuity is noted, the armature
has a shorted winding and must be replaced.
c. Connect the ohmmeter between each commutator
segment (Figure 20). Continuity should be present
between pairs of segments. If no continuity is noted,
the armature has an open winding and must be re-
placed.
5 . Use a small file (Figure 21) to undercut the mica be-
tween the commutator segments.
6. Blow away any particles with compressed air and use a
depth micrometer to measure the depth of the undercut
(Figure 22). Compare the measurement with the specifi-
cations listed in Table 4.
7. Measure the diameter of the armature (Figure 23) at
several locations. Compare the lowest measurement with
the specification in Table 4. Replace the armature if the
diameter is less than the minimum specification.
8. Measure the brush length as shown in Figure 24. Com-
pare the measurements with tlie brush length specification
in Table 4. Replace all brushes if any of them worn be-
yond tlie specification. Replace the brushes or complete
tlie brush plate if corroded, contaminated, chipped or bro- 10. Inspect the bearing surfaces on the armature and the
ken surfaces are noted. Inspect the brush springs for dam- bushings for discoloration and excessive or uneven wear.
age or weak spring tension. Replace the springs if any Replace any questionable bearingslbushings using a suit-
defects are noted. able puller and driver. Replace the annature if rough or
9. Inspect the magnets in the frame assembly for corro- uneven surfaces are present on bearing surfaces.
sion or other contamination and clean as required. Inspect 11. Connect an ohmmeter between the brass-colored
the frame assembly for cracked or loose magnets. Replace brush retainers (Figure 25). Replace the brush holder if
the frame assembly ifit cannot be adequately cleaned or if continuity is noted.
damaged magnets are noted. 12. Assemble the starter as described in this chapter.
the large terminal and insulator fit properly into the open-
ing in the lower cover.
2. Fabricate a brush-retaining tool to assist with the asma-
hire installation. Bend a stiff piece of thin rod into a U
shape and position it between the brushes as shown in
Figure 26.
3. Place the thrust washer, if so equipped, onto the lower
end of the armature shaft. Install the armature into the
bushing in the lower cover, then carefully remove the tool.
If possible, install the armature without using a tool.
Manually hold the bsushes away and carefully slide the ar-
mature into the cover. Release the brushes and inspect
them for damage before proceeding (Figure 27).
4. Wipe a small amount of Suzuki water-resistant grease
onto the upper cover bushing. While holding the armature
Starter Motor Assembly firmly in position in the lower cover install the frame as-
sembly over the armature. Align the marks (Figure 12)
and/or anti-rotation structures (Figure 28). Install the
Apply a light coat of Suzuki water-resistant grease to all thrust washers (7-9, Figure 10) over the upper end of the
bushing contact surfaces and the pinion drive end of the armature shaft in exactly the same orientation as removed.
armature. Do not apply grease to the brushes or near the 5. Without pulling the armature from the frame or lower
brush contact surfaces. cover, place the upper cover over the armature shaft and
1. Align the marks and install the brush plate into the onto the frame. Align the mark on the upper cover with the
lower starter cover. Tighten all fasteners securely. Ensure mark on the frame (Figure 12).
10 CHAPTER SEVEN
6. Install both throughbolts (21, Figure 10) and tighten

them to the specification in Table 5.
7. Apply a light coating of grease to the helical spline sec-
tion (10, Figure 10) and thread the pinion drive onto the
armature shaft. Install the spring and pinion stopper (Fig-
ure 29) onto the armature shaft. Push the pinion stopper
toward the pinion drive and position the locking clip (Fig-
ure 29) in the groove. Release the pinion stopper and in-
spect the locking clip. The clip must be positioned into the
groove with the pinion stopper fully over the clip as
shown in Figure 30. Use pliers to reform the locking clip
if it was distorted during installation or replace it.
8. Install the starter motor as described in this chapter.
CHARGING SYSTEM

tions for the battery charging coil, rectifier and the recti-
fierlregulator.
Rectifier
This component is used on electric start DF9.9 and

DF15 models. Models with the optional higher output
charging system are equipped with a rectifierlregulator in
place of the rectifier. Replace the rectifier as follows:
2. Use the wiring diagrams located at the back of this
manual to identify the wire colors used for the rectifier
(Figure 31).
3. Disconnect the red and yellow wires connecting the
rectifier to the battery charge coil.
4. Remove the mounting screw, black wire connector and
rectifier (Figure 31) from the mounting base.
5. Clean, inspect and repair, if necessary, the threads in When necessary for access, remove the electrical com-
the mounting base. Clean all corrosion from the mounting ponent cover from the power head.
location. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
6. Carefully route the wires and position the rectifier to 2. Use the wiring diagrams located at the back of this
the mounting base. Install the mounting screw and black manual to identify the wire colors used for the recti-
wire terminal. Securely tighten the mounting screw. Posi- fierlregulator (Figure 32).
tion the ground wire terminal under the mounting plate 3. Trace then disconnect the black wire terminal (Figure
screw. 32) from its connection to the engine wire harness or
7. Connect the red and yellow rectifier wires to their re- power head. Disconnect the remaining rectifierlregulator
spective charge coil wires. wires from the engine wire harness andlor battery charge
8. Connect the negative battery cable. Check for proper coil harness.
charging and ignition system operation immediately after 4. Remove both mounting bolts and lift the rectifidregu-
starting the engine. lator from the power head.
CTRICAL AND IGNITION 211
RECTIFIERIREGULATOR
D DF15 MODELS (TYPICAL)
Rectifierlregulator
Batterylignition
To engine wire
mounting base
s./J ~ o u n t i n gbolt
The battery charge coil and ignition charge coils are in-
~ o u n t i n gscrew tegrated into a single component on all models except
DF9.9 and DF 15 models.
Prior to removal, make a sketch or a photograph of the
wire routing for reference during installation. During in-
stallation, route all wires to prevent interference with
5. Clean, inspect and repair, if necessary, the threads in moving parts.
the power head. Clean all corrosion from the mounting lo-
cation. CA UTION
It may be necessary to use an impact driver
6. Carefully route the rectifier/regulator unit wires and to remove the battery charge and ignition
position the rectifier to the power head. Install and se- charge coil mounting screws. Work care-
curely tighten the mounting bolts, mounting screw and fi1ll.v and avoid using excessive force that
black wire terminal. Route and connect the black wire ter- may damage the cylinder block.
minal to its connection point.
NOTE
7. Connect the remaining leads to the engine wire harness The batteiy charge and ignition charge coils
andlor battery charge coil. appear almost identical on most models.
8. Connect the negative battery cable. Check for proper Use the wire colors and illustrations to
charging and ignition system operation immediately after identify the proper component.
starting the engine.
2. Remove the flywheel as described in Chapter Eight.
3. Disconnect the battery charge coil from the recti-
Battery Charge Coil fierlregulator, CDI unit andlor engine wire harness. Refer
to the wiring diagrams at the end of the manual to assist
Removal and installation instructions are similar for all with wire connection points.
models. Refer to Figure 33 for DF9.9 and DF15 models. 4. Mark the orientation of the charge coil relative to the
Figure 34 for DF25 and DF30 models, Figure 35 for mounting base. Remove the mounting screws and remove
DF40 and DF50 models and Figure 36 for DF60 and the coil. Carefully guide the coil wires during removal to
DF70 models. prevent damage.
212 CHAPTER SEVEN

1. Flywheel nut
2. Washer
3. Key
4. Flywheel
5. Flywheel taper
6. Screw
7. Ignition charge coil
8. Screw
9. Crankshaft taper
10. Mounting base
11. Aligning pin
12. Screw
13. Pulser coil
14. Screw
15. Wire groover
16. Screw
17. Battery charge coil
1. Flywheel bolt
2. Washer
3. Key
4. Flywheel
5. Screw
6. Crankshaft position (CKP)
sensor
7. Screw
8. Batterylignition charge
coil
9. Screw
10. Crankshaft taper
sensor
12. Connector
13. Clamp
14. Bolt
AND DFSO MODELS
1. Flywheel bolt
2. Washer
3. Key
4. Flywheel
coil
6. Screw
sensor
sensor
9. Screw
10. Crankshaft
1I. Crankshaft position (CKP)
sensor
12. Connector
AND DF70 MODELS

-2
1. Flywheel bolt
2. Washer 4
3. Key
4. Flywheel
coil
6. Screw 6
7. Connector
8. Screw
sensor
10. Crankshaft taper
11. Clamp
12. Connector
13. Screw
sensor
15. Mountin block
16. Camshaft position (CMP)
sensor
77. Screw
18. Clamp
5. Clean the battery charge coil rno~~nting location, the
threads or the mounting screws.
6. To install the coil, carefdy route the wires and lower
the battery charge coil onto the mounting base. Make cer-
tain the coil is h l l y seated onto the ino~mtingbase.
7A. On DF9.9 and DF15 models route the charge coil I. Disco~mectthe negative batte~ycable (if so equipped).
wires into the grooves (15, Figure 33) provided 011 the 2. Remove the flywheel as described in Chapter Eight.
mounting base. 3. Refes to the wiring diagrams at the end of the n~anual
7B. On DF25 and DF30 models bend the clamp (13, Fig- to assist with wire connection points. Disconnect the igni-
ure 34) over the charge coil harness to secure the wiring. tion chai-ge coil wires as follows:
8. Apply S~izukithread lock (part No. 99000-32050) to a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models trace the wires fsom
the h+eadsand install the coil mou~itingscrews. Securely the ignition charge coil (7, Figure 33) to tlleir con-
tighten the screws. nection to the CDI unit hamess. Disconnect the
9. Connect the batte~ycharge coil wires to the rectifier or wires.
rectifierlreg~~lator har~iessand engine wire Ilarness. Se- b. On DF25 and DF30 models trace the wires from the
cure the black wire terminal to the engine gro~mdor its combination ignition and batte~ycharge coil (8,
wire harness connection point. Figure 34) to the connections to the reclifier/regu-
lator and CDI unit. Disconnect the wises.
10. 111staIl the flywheel as described in Chapter Eight.
Connect any remaining wires to their terminals on the c. On DF40 and DF50 models carefully unpl~lgthe
main engine wire hamess or ignition components. connector (I 2, Figure 35) from the e ~ ~ g i wire
n e har-
ness.
11. Connect the negative battery cable. Check for proper
d. On DF60 and DF70 models caref~lllyunp1~1gthe
cliarging and ignition system operation following the in-
connector (7, Figure 36) fi-om the engine wire har-
stniction provided in Chapter Three.
ness.
4. Mark the orientation of the cl~argecoil relative to the
IGNITION SYSTEM inoui~tingbase. Remove the mounting screws and the coil.
Casef~~lly g ~ ~ i the
d e coil wires during removal to pi-event
This section provides i~istr~ictions
for removing all igni- damage.
tion system components. 5. Clean the coil mo~mtinglocation, the threads or the
mounting screws.
6. To install tlie coil, severse the ren~ovalsequence, case-
Ignition Charge Coil fully route the wires and lower the coil onto the mo~mting
base. F~dlyseat the coil onto the mounting base and note
Ren~ovaland installation are similar for all models. Re- the following:
fer to Figure 33 for DF9.9 and DFl5 models, Figure 34 a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models route the coil wires
for DF25 and DF30 models, Figure 35 for DF40 and into the grooves (15, Figure 33) provided on the
DF50 models and Figure 36 for DF60 and DF70 models. mo~mtingbase.
The ignition charge and battery charge coils are inte- b. On DF25 and DF30 models bend the clamp (13.
grated into a single component on all models except Figure 34) over the charge coil hasness to secure
DF9.9 and DF 15 models. the wiring.
Prior to removal, make a sketch or a pliotograpl~of the c. Apply S L I Z LThread
I ~ ~ lock (part No. 99000-32050)
wire ro~itingfor rcfesence during installation. D ~ ~ r i nin-
g to tlie tl~seaclsand i~~stall
the coil mounting screws.
stallation, route all wires to prevent interference with Seci~relytighten the screws.
moving pasts.
Pulser Coil
CAUTION
It may be izecessaqj to use a11 iv~pactd ~ i v e r (DF9.9 and QF15 Models)
to reinove the battety charge m d ig~zitim
charge coil inowiting screws. Work care- Use a feelcr gaugc to set tlie pulses coil to flywheel a x
frilly and avoid usiizg excessive force that gap aftu flywheel 01 pulses c011 ~ c p l a c c ~ n c ~ ~ t .
may damage the cylinder bloclc. 1. Disconnect tlic negatlve batteiy cable (IFso equipped).
TRICAL AND IGNITION 215
installed pulser coil or flywlieel (Chapter Eight) if inter-

ference occurs.
10. Connect tlie whitelgreen wire to its connection to the
CDI unit harness. Route the wire to avoid interference
with other components. Secure the whitelgreen and black
wires witli the clamp.
Flywheel 11. Connect the negative batte~ycable (if so equipped).
\ Pulser coil 12. Check for proper charging and ignition system opera-
tion following the instruction provided in Chapter Three.
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor
Removal and installation is similar for all models. Refer

to Figure 34 for DF2S and DF30 models, Figure 35 for
DF40 and DFSO models and Figure 36 for DF60 and
DF70 models.
Replace all CKP sensors if any of them are faulty. They
are incorporated into a single wire harness. The CKP and
Air gap
0.7 mm (0.028 in.) canisliaft position (CMP) sensor are incorporatcd into a
single liarness on DF60 and DF70 niodels.
Prior to removal, make a sketch or a pliotograpli of the
wire routing for reference during installation. During in-
2. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of the m a ~ ~ u a l
moving parts. Air gap adjustment is not required for the
to assist with wire connection points. Release the
CKP sensor.
whitelgreen and black pulser coil wires from the clamp.
Disconnect tlie whitelgreen wire from the CDI unit har-
2. Remove the flywheel as described in Chapter Eight.
ness.
Use compressed air to blow debris from the sensor mount-
3. Remove the pulser coil mounting screws (14, Figure mg areas.
33) witli an offset screwdriver. Carefully guide the wires 3A. On DF2S and DF30 models carefully unplug the con-
during removal to prevent interference with other engine nector (12, Figure 34) from the CDI unit. Release the sen-
components. sor wires from the clamp (13, Figure 34). Remove the
4. Clean the pulser coil(s) mounting location and the f o ~ mounting
~r screws (5 and 9, Figure 34) and lift the
threads of the mounting screws. sensors (6 and 11) from the power head.
5. Carefully route the coil wires into position and lower 3B. On DF40 and DFSO models carefidly unplug the con-
the coil onto the mounting base. Fully seat the coil on the nector (12, Figure 35) from the engine wire liarness. Re-
mounting base with the protrusion facing the flywheel. move the six mounting screws (9, Figure 35) and lift the
6. Fit one of the mounting screws tlirough the black wire CKP sensors (7, 8 and 11) from the power head.
terniinal. Install both mounting screws (14, Figure 33). 3C. On DF60 and DF70 models carefully unplug the con-
Do not tighten the screws at this time. nector (12. Figure 36) from the ECM. Release the sensor
wires from the clamps (1 1 and 18, Figure 36). Remove
7. Position a 0.7 mm (0.028 in.) feeler gauge behveen the the CMP sensor (16, Figure 36) as described in this chap-
flywheel and pulser coil to set the air gap (Figure 31). ter. Lift the CKP and CMP sensors (9 and 14, Figure 36)
Push the pulser coil toward the flywlieel to hold the gauge from the power head.
and securely tighten the mounting screws. 4. Clean the sensor mounting location and the threads of
8. Recheck the air gap. If the gtp is correct the feeler the mounting screws.
gauge will pass between the flywheel and pulser with a 5 . Carefully route the sensor wires into position and place
slight drag. Loosen the mounting screws and correct the the sensors onto the power head. Arrange the sensors as
gap as needed. Sec~irelytighten the screws after adjust- noted prior to removal. Fully seat the sensor on the mount-
ment. ing base with the protrusions facing the flywheel.
9. Slowly rotate the flywlieel to check for interference 6. Complete installation by reversing the removal proce-
between the coil and flywheel. Check for an improperly dure and noting the following:
Page: 223 Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-7OHP Four Stroke - 1997-2000 http://www.ReadManuals.Com
216 CHAPTER SEVEN
@ DF40 AND OF50
Camshaft position (CMP) sensor Ignition coil No. 1
Harness connection
Clamp Clamp
Ignition coil No. 2
Clamp
Hose retainers
Ignition coil No. 3
Clamp
a. Apply Suzuki Thseadlock (past No. 99000-32050) DF40 and DF50 models
to the mounting screws. Securely tighten the
screws. Retain the wires by bending the clamp(s)
The CMP sensor (Figure 38) is mounted on the rocker
over them (if applicable).
arm cover. Air gap adjustment is not required on ti~ese
b. Route all wires to prevent interference with moving
models.
components. Plug the sensor harness connector to
the CDI unit, ECM or engine wire harness. 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
c. On DF60 and DF70 models install and adjust the
2. Carefully bend the clamp away from the sensor wire
CMP sensor as described in this chapter.
and unplug the connector from the sensor.
d. Install the flywheel as described in Chapter Eight.
Slowly rotate the flywheel to check for interference 3. Remove the bolt (Figure 38) then lift the sensor and
between the sensors and the flywheel. Check for an clamp from the rocker a m cover.
improperly installed sensor or flywheel if interfer- 4. Use suitable solvent to clean all contaminants from the
ence occurs. sensor and it mo~mtingsurface.
e. Check for proper ignition system operation as de-
scribed in Chapter Three. 5. Place the tip of the sensor into the opening and seat the
sensor against the rocker arm cover. Install the bolt and
clamp. Securely tighten the bolt.
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
6. Clean the teminals and plug the wire l~arnessconnec-
Prior to removal, make a sketch or a pl~otograpl~ of the tor onto the sensor. Retain the wire hasness with the clamp
wire r o ~ ~ t i nfor
g reference during installation. D~iringin- as indicated in Figure 38.
moving parts. Use a feeler gauge to set thc air gap on
DF60 and DF70 models. Refer to the instructions for the 8. Check for proper ignition system operation as de-
selccted model. scribed in Chapter Three.
10. Install tlie CKP sensors as described in this cl~apter.

0 60 AND DF70 MODEL
11. Connect tlie negative battesy cable.
12. Check for proper ignition system operation as de-
Lanyard Switch
The lanyard switch is mounted to the tiller control on

models so equipped. The switch in incorporated into the
remote control on remote control models.
Tiller control tnudels
Refer to Starter Butt017 in this chapter to identify the

lanyard switch and related components.
1. Disconnect thc negative battesy cable (if so equipped).
2. Refer to the wire diagrams at the end of the manual to
\ ~ountin~
screw position (CMP)
camshaft
sensor 'b identify the wires for the lanyard switch. Disconnect the
switch wires froni the engine wire hasness.
3A. On DF9.9, DFl5, DF25 and DF30 models hold the
lanyard switcli to prevent rotation and remove the plastic
nut. Pull the switch from the tiller a m .
DF60 and DF70 models 3B. On DF40, DF.50, DF60 and DF70 models remove the
six screws and lower the cover. Hold the lanyard switch to
The CMP sensor is mounted to the top of the cylinder prevent rotation and remove the plastic nut. Remove thc
head and next to the camshaft pulley (Figure 39). Use a switch and washer from the cover. Guide the switch wire
feeler gauge to set the air gap on these nlodels. to prevent interference during switch removal.
I. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Installation is tlie reverse or removal. Note the follow-
2. Removc thc flywheel as described in Chapter Eight. ing:
3. Remove the CKP sensors as described in this chapter. a. Route all wires to avoid interference with moving
4. Remove both mounting screws (1 7, Figure 36) and lift pasts.
the sensor (I 6) and mounting block (I 5) from the cylinder b. Sec~~rely tighten the plastic retaining nut.
head. c. Check for proper operation of the lanyard switch as
5. Clean the scnsor mounting location and the threads of described in Chapter Three before operating tlie en-
the mo~~nting screws. gine.
6. Place tlie mounting block and sensor onto the cylinder
head. Apply Suzuki Thread lock (part No. 99000-32050) Remote control inudels
to the threads and install the sensor mounting screws. Do
not tighten the screws at this time. Refer to Igtzition Key Switch in this chapter to identify
7. Man~~ally rotate the flywheel clockwise until the raised the lanyard switc11 and related components.
section on the camshaft pulley aligns with the sensor. 1. Disconnect tlie negative battesy cable.
8. Slip a 1.0 n m (0.040 in.) feeler gauge between the sen- 2. Disassemble the remote control assembly (see Chaptcr
sor and the raised section. Lightly push the sensor toward Twelve) so that the lanyard switch retainer and wires are
the camshaft pulley (Figure 39) to set the air gap. Hold accessible.
the sensor in position and securely tighten both mounting 3. Disconnect the remote control l~asnesswires from the
screws. lanyard switch wires.
9. Recheck the air gap (Figure 39). If the gap is cossect 4. Remove the switch retaining nut and remove the
the feeler gauge will pass between the pulley and sensor switch.
with a slight drag. Loosen the mounting screws and cor- 5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the follow-
rect the gap as needed. Securely tighten the screws after ing:
adjustment. a. Clean all wire tesminals prior to connecting them.
21 8 CHAPTER SEVEN
b. Route all wires to prevent interference with moving

parts.
c. Securely tighten the retaining nut.
d. Check for proper operation of the switch as de- Spark plug caps
Ignition Coil
Coil mounting location and replacement instructions

vary by model. Refer to the wire diagrams at the end of the
manual to identify the wire colors and connection points
for the ignition coil then follow the instructions for the se-
lected model.
Locate the ignition coil on the port side of the power

head.
2. Release the wires from the clamp then disconnect the ~ountin
bolts
~
orange and black coil wires (Figure 40) from the CDI unit
harness.
3. Remove the mounting bolts and lift the coil from the
power head. Clean the mounting location and threads of
the mounting screws.
4. Remove the spark plug cap by pulling lightly while ro-
tating counterclockwise (Figure 41). Install the cap by
pushing in while rotating clockwise (Figure 41).
5 . Position the ignition coil onto the power head with the
orange and black wire facing the flywheel. Install the
clamp and mounting bolts. Direct the clamp toward the
flywheel and securely tighten the bolts.
6. Clean the terminals and connect the black and orange
wires to the CDI unit harness. Retain the wires by bending
the clamp over them.
Check for proper ignition system operation as described
in Chapter Three.
Cap Cap
removal installation
DF25 and DF30 models
Locate the three ignition coils (Figure 42) on the port

side of the power head.
2. Disconnect the white coil wire terminal from the se- 4. Place the ignition coil onto the power head as shown in
lected ignition coil. Remove the mounting bolt (Figure Figure 42. Slip the mounting bolt through the black coil
42) and lift the coil from the power head. Clean the wire terminal. Install and securely tighten the bolt. Clean
mounting location and threads of the mounting screws. the terminal then connect the white coil wire to the CDI
3. Remove the spark plug cap by pulling lightly while ro- unit harness.
taling counterclockwise (Figure 41). Install the cap by
pushing in while rotating clockwise (Figure 41). 5. Repeat Steps 2-4 for the remaining coils as needed.
ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION 21 9
harness connector onto the coil. Install the remaining coils 7

as needed.
Check for proper ignition system operation as described
in Chapter Three.
Locate both ignition coils on the starboard side of the

cylinder head (Figure 43).
1 Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Carefully unplug the connector housing, and the green
and orange wire from the selected coil. Mark the coil
6. Connect the negative battery cable (if so equipped). n~ountinglocation (top or bottom) on the connector.
Check for proper ignition system operation as described 3. Remove both mounting bolts (Figure 43) and lift the
in Chapter Three. coil from the cylinder head.
4. Clean the mounting location and the mounting bolt
threads.
5. Repeat Steps 2-4 for the remaining coil.
The ignition coils attach directly to the spark plug on 6. Install the coil onto the cylinder head as shown in Fig-
these models. The coils are mounted to the rocker arm ure 43. Install and securely tighten the mounting bolts.
cover on the rear of the cylinder head. Clean the terminals and carefully plug the connector to the
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. ignition coil. Install the remaining coil as described.
2. Release the clamps (Figure 38) from the No. 2 and No. 7. Connect the negative battery cable.
3 ignition coil wires.
3. Remove the bolt that retains the selected ignition coil
to the rocker arm cover. Pull the ignition coils from the CDI Unit or Engine Control Module (ECM)
spark plug and cover. Carefully unplug the harness con-
nector from the ignition coil. Mark the coil number on the Mounting locations for the CDI unit (Figure 44) or
connector to ensure correct connections upon installation. ECM (Figure 45) varies by model.
4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the remaining coils. Clean the On DF9.9 and DF15 models, the CDI unit (Figure 44)
spark plug terminal in the coil, the threads of the bolts and is mounted to the top of the manual starter or flywheel
the coil mounting location. cover.
5. Carefully snap the coil onto the selected spark plug. On DF25 and DF30 models, The CDI unit is located on
Align the coil as shown in Figure 38 and install the bolt. the lower port side of the power head and mounted under
Securely tighten the bolt. Clean the terminals and plug the the electrical component cover.
220 CHAPTER SEVEN
On DF40 and DF50 models, the ECM is located on the

starboard side of the power head and mounted under the
electrical component cover.
On DF60 and DF70 models, the ECM (Figure 45) is
mounted within a bracket on the starboard side of the
power head.
electrical component cover, on models so equipped, to ac-
cess the CDI or ECM and terminals.
2. Disconnect all wires connecting the engine wire har-
ness or other components to the CDI unit or ECM.
3. Remove the screws that retain the CDI unit or ECM to
the engine. Note any ground wires connected at these
points. To prevent a repeat failure of the unit, make sure
they are properly connected on assembly.
4. Lift the CDI unit or ECM from the power head. Clean
any corrosion or contamination from the mounting loca-
tion.
5. Install the CDI or ECM and tighten all fasteners se-
curely. Check all ground wires for proper connection.
Take care when routing all wires. They must not interfere
with other components.
6. Attach all wires to the correct terminal connection.
7. Install the electrical component cover if removed.
Connect the negative battery cable (if so equipped).
8. Check for proper ignition system operation as de-
WARNING SYSTEM
This section provides removal and installation instruc- On DF60 and DF70 models, the switch is mounted on
tions for the oil pressure switch, engine and manifold tem- the starboard side of the power head. Remoi e the electric
perature sensor, oil pressureloverheat warning light and component and engine control module to access the
warning buzzer. Refer to the instructions for the selected switch.
component.
2. Disconnect wire from the oil pressure switch. Thread
Oil Pressure Switch
the switch from the cylinder block. Carefully clean all
The mounting location for the oil pressure switch (Fig- sealant residue from the switch threads. Prevent contami-
ure 46) varies by model. Refer to the wiring diagrams at nants from entering the passages.
the end of the manual to identify the wire color connected 3. Wrap a layer of Teflon sealing tape (Figure 47) around
to the switch. the threads of the switch. Thread the switch into the open-
On DF9.9 and DF15 models, the switch is mounted on ing by hand then tighten the switch to the specification
the upper port side of the power head and directly above listed in Table 5.
the CDI unit.
4. Connect the pink, blue or bluelyellow wire to the
On DF25 and DF30 models, the switch is mounted on
switch. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the neg-
the lower front side of the power head and directly in line
ative battery cable. Route the wire to avoid interference
with the warning light.
with moving components.
On DF40 and DF50 models, the switch is mounted to
the upper port side of the power head and just below the 5. Start the engine and immediately check for oil leakage.
flywheel. Correct oil leakage before operating the engine.
ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION 22 1
5. Start the engine and immediately check for water leak-

age. Correct leakage before returning the engine to service.
L I
Warning Light
An oil pressureloverheat warning light is used on

DF9.9, DF15, DF25 and DF30 models. The light is
mounted to the front of the lower engine cover (Figure
49).
2A. Trace the wires from the light to their connections to
the CDI unit harness. Carefully unplug the wire(s) from
the harness.
2B. On remote control DF9.9 and DF15 models trace the
black wire from the light to its engine ground terminal.
Disconnect the black wire.
3. Remove the clip or plastic nut (if used) from the inner
side of the engine cover. Carefully pry the light from the
lower engine cover. Wipe debris or contaminants from the
light mounting surface.
Cylinder and Exhaust Manifold
4. Guide the wires through the opening and seat the light
Temperature Sensor
against the lower engine cover. Install the clip or plastic
nut (if used).
The number of sensors used and mounting locations 5A. Connect the light wire(s) to the CDI unit harness.
vary by model. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the end of Route the wires to avoid interference with moving parts.
the manual to identify the wire colors used for the temper-
5B. On remote control DF9.9 and DF15 models connect
ature sensor (Figure 48). Trace the wires to the cylinder
the black wire to its engine ground terminal.
block, cylinder head or water jacket mounting location.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (if so equipped). 7. Start the engine and check for proper light operation as
2. Unplug the temperature sensor connector from the en- described in Chapter Three.
gine wire harness. Untliread the sensor from the power
head. Clean the mounting opening and threads of the sen-
sor. Warning Buzzer
3. Hand thread the sensor into the opening then securely The location of the warning buzzer may vary with the
tighten. Plug the sensor wire to the engine wire harness. type of control used. On applications with the ignition
Route the wires to avoid interference. switch mounted in the remote control, the warning buzzer
4. Connect the negative battery cable (if so equipped). is mounted inside the control. Refer to Chapter Twelve for
222 CHAPTER SEVEN
instructions to disassemble the control to access the warn-

ing buzzer.
On applications with a dash-mounted ignition switch,
the warning buzzer is mounted under the dash, near the
key switch.
On tiller control models, the buzzer is mounted within
the tiller control housing. Refer to Chapter Eleven for in-
structions to disassemble the control to access the warning
buzzer.
Regardless of the mounting location, the replacement
instructions are similar. Disconnect the terminals and re-
move the fasteners for the buzzer. Install the replacement
buzzer, then connect the wire terminals. Ensure that all
wires and terminals will not interfere with any moving
components.
BATTERY MAINTENANCE
Batteries used in marine applications are subjected to

far more vibration and pounding than automotive appliea-
tions. Always use a battery that is designated for marine
applications (Figure 50). These batteries are constructed
with thicker cases and plates than typical automotive bat-
teries. This allows them to better withstand the marine en-
vironment.
Use a battery that meets or exceeds the cold cranking
amperage requirements for the engine. Refer to Table 1
for battery requirements. Some marine batteries list Ma-
iine/Deep Cycle on the label. Deep-cycle batteries are
constructed to allow repeated discharge and charge cy-
cles. These batteries are excellent for powering accesso-
ries such as trolling motors. Always charge deep-cycle
batteries at a low amperage rate. They are not generally
designed to be charged or discharged at a rapid rate. Table
3 provides the usage hours (capacity) for both 80 and 105
impere-hour batteries. Deep cycle batteries can be used as
the starting battery providing they meet the cold cranking
amperage requirements for the engine.
Cable Connections
Battery Mounting Requirements
Insufficient or dirty cable connections cause many
problems in marine applications. Use cable connectors Make sure the battery is securely mounted in the boat to
that are securely crimped or molded to the cable. Avoid avoid a dangerous acid spill or electrical arcing that can
the use of temporary or emergency clamps for normal us- cause a fire. The most common types of battery mounting
age. They are prone to corrosion and do not meet U.S. include the bracket mounted to the floor of the boat and
Coast Guard requirements for terminal connections. the support across the top of the battery (Figure 51 ). The
Use a cover on the positive terminal post (Figure 51). other common type of battery mounting is the battery case
They are available at marine dealerships. and cover that encloses the battery and secures i t to the
ci~relyto eliminate the possibility of the bat-

@ f e y contacting metal components. Batteries
produce explosive gasses that can ignite if
arcing occurs.
Warm water
Battery Case
Inspect the battery case for cracks, leaks, abrasions and

other damage if the battery is removed for charging. Re-
place the battery if any questionable conditions exist.
During normal usage, a corrosive deposit forms on top of
the battery. These deposits may allow the battery to dis-
charge at a rapid rate.
Make sure the battery caps are properly installed. Re-
move the battery from the boat and carefully wash loose
material from the top of the battery with clean water. Use a
solution of warm water and baking soda and a
soft-bristled brush to clean the deposits from the battery
(Figure 53). Rinse the battery with clean water to remove
of vent well all of the baking soda solution from the battery case.
Maximum
Post electrolyte level
Electrolyte Level
Check the battery electrolyte level on a regular basis.

Heavy use or use in warm climates increases the fre-
quency for adding water to the battery. Carefully remove
the vent caps (Figure 54) and inspect the electrolyte level
in each cell. The electrolyte level should be 4.8 mm (3116
in.) above the plates but below the bottom of the vent well
(Figure 54). Use distilled water to fill the cells to the
lates proper level. Never use battery acid to correct the electro-
lyte level.
WARNING
Use care when lifting or transporting the
battery. With age, the c a n y strap can be-
come weak or brittle and break. I f the bat-
teiy is dropped, the case may break and
boat structure (Figure 52). When properly installed, ei- release a dangerous acid solution.
ther of these provide secure mounting and protection for
the terminals. CA UTION
Mount the battery in a location that allows easy access Never allow the water and baking soda so-
for maintenance. Ensure that the battery terminals are not lution to enter the batteiy solution through
able to contact any component in the mounting area. The the vent caps; it can neutralize the acid and
rigorous marine usage can cause considerable shifting of damage the batten'.
the battery.
CA UTION
M2RNING Never overfill the battety The electrolyte
When mounting a battery in a boat con- may expand with the heat created from
structed of aluminum, mount the batter}' se- charging and overflow jkom the battery.
224 CHAPTER SEVEN
Battery post
\ / cleaning tool
a' / Battery
cable
Battery Terminals
Clean the battery terminals at regular intervals and

whenever the terminal has been removed. Use a bat-
tery-cleaning tool, available at most automotive part
stores, to quickly remove stubborn corrosion and depos-
its. Remove the terminal and clean the post (Figure 55).
r
Rotate the tool on the post until the post is clean. Avoid re-
moving too much material from the post or the terminal Float
may not attach securely to it.
Use the other end of the tool to clean the cable end ter-
minal (Figure 56). Clean flat spade-type connectors and Electrolyte must be
the attaching nuts with the wire brush end of the tool. 3/16 in. above pla
Apply a coat of diaelectric grease, petroleum jelly or
other corrosion prevention compound to the battery post
and cable terminal. Tighten the fasteners securely. Avoid
using excessive force when tightening these terminals.
The battery and terminals can sustain considerable dam-
age if excessive force is applied.
Battery Testing
Two methods are commonly used to test batteries. Use a

load tester or carbon pile to cheek the battery voltage with
a load applied across the terminals. Follow the instruc-
tions provided with the load tester. charge level of the battery. Hydrometers are available at
If a lead tester is not available, perform a Cranking Volt- most automotive part stores.
age Test following the instructions included in this section To use the hydrometer, insert the tip into the cell and use
to check the battery condition. the ball to draw some of the electrolyte from the cell into
Use a hydrometer to check the specific gravity of the the hydrometer (Figure 57). Read the specific gravity in
battery electrolyte. This gives an accurate reading of the all cells. When using a temperature compensating hy-
NEEDS FULLY
DEAD CHARGING CHARGED
VOLTMETER
drometer, take several readings in each cell to allow the

hydrometer to adjust to the electrolyte temperature. Al-
ways return the electrolyte to the cell it was drawn from.
With the hydrometer in a vertical position, determine the
specific gravity by reading the level of the float (Figure
58). A specific gravity reading of 1.260 points or higher
indicates a fully charged battery. Compare the hydrome-
ter readings with the information provided in Table 2 to
determine the condition charge. Always charge the bal-
tery if the specific gravity varies more than 0.050 points
from one cell to another.
NOTE
Add 0.004O to the reading for every 10'
above 25' C (80Â°Fifthe hydrometer i s not
a temperature compensating model. Siib-
tract 0.004Ofrom the reading for eve? 10'
below 2.5' (80' F).
NOTE
4 n inaccurate reading can result i f the spe-
cific gravity is checked immediately after
adding water to the battety. To ensure accu-
racy, charge the battery at a high rate for
15-20 minutes prior to testing.
Weight
Cranking Voltage Test
The battery condition can be checked by measuring the

voltage at the battery while cranking the engine. Connect
the positive meter test lead to the positive battery terrni-
rial. Connect the negative test lead to an engine ground.
Measure the voltage while cranking the engine (Figure
59). Charge the battery if the cranking voltage drops be-
low 9.6 volts while cranking. Test the cranking voltage
226 CHAPTER SEVEN
again. Replace the battery if the cranking voltage is not

9.6 or above after a complete charge.
Make connections in numerical order

Battery Storage (disconnect in reverse order: 4 3 2 1)
Batteries lose some charge during storage. The rate of

discharge increases in a warm environment. Store the bat-
tery in a cool dry location to minimize the loss of charge.
Check the specific gravity every 30 days of storage and
charge the battery as required. Refer to Battery Charging
in this section for battery charging times.
Battery Charging
WARNING
Batteries produce explosive hydrogen gas. Discharged
Charge the battery in a well-ventilated area. battery
Wear protective eye wear and suitable
gloves when working around batteries.
Never smoke or allow any source of ignition
in the area where batteries are stored or charging process to begin without first charging at the
charged. Never allow noninsulated compo- high rate.
nents to contact the battery terminals, as Check the specific gravity often and halt the charging
arcing can occur and ignite the hydrogen process when the battery is fully charged. Severely dis-
gas. charged batteries may require as long as 8 hours to re-
charge. Check the temperature of the electrolyte during
WARNING
the charging process. Halt the charging process if the elec-
Use extreme caution when connecting any
wires to the battery terminals. Avoid making trolyte temperature reaches or exceeds 53' C (125' F).
the last connection at the batten' terminal.
Explosive hydrogen gas in and around the
battety may ignite and lead to an explosion. Jump Starting
Always remove the battery from the boat to charge it. Jump starting provides the capability of starting an en-
Because most boats provide limited ventilation, the ex- gine that has a severely discharged battery. Jump starting
plosive gasses the battery gives out may remain in the area can be dangerous if correct instructions are not followed.
for a fair amount of time. The gasses may also cause ac- Never attempt to jump start a frozen battery. Always
celerated corrosion of components in the battery compart- check and correct the electrolyte level in each battery be-
ment. Removing the battery also allows for inspection of fore making any connection. A significant risk of explo-
the case for damage and cleaning and maintenance of the sion exists if the electrolyte level is at or below the top of
battery terminals. the plates. Always use a good pair of jumper cables with
Make the connections to the battery hefore plugging in clean connector clamps. Keep all clamps totally separated
or switching on the charger to avoid arcing at the termi- from any metallic or conductive material. Never allow the
nals. Connect the battery charger cables to the proper ter- clamps to contact other clamps.
minals on the battery. Plug the charger into its power
1. Connect a jumper cable to the positive terminal of the
supply and select the 12-volt battery setting.
discharged battery (1, Figure 60).
Charging the battery at a slow rate (lower amperage) re-
sults in a more sufficient charge and helps prolong the life 2. Connect the other end of the same jumper cable to ihe
of the battery. With a severely discharged battery, it may positive terminal of the fully charged battery (2, Figure
be necessary to charge the battery at a highcr amperage 60).
rate for a few minutes befoie starting the lower rate 3. Connect the second jumper cable to the negative termi-
charge. A severely discharged battery will not allow the nal of the fully charged battery (3, Figure 60).
4. Connect the other end of the second jumper cable to a

@ ATTERY HOOKUP
(SERIES)
good engine ground, such as the starter ground cable (4,
Figure 60).
5. Make sure the cables and clamps are positioned so that
they will not become trapped or interfere with moving
conlponents.
6. Start the engine, then remove the cables in exactly the
reverse of the connection order.
Wiring for 12- and 24-Volt

Electric Trolling Motors
Many boats are provided with an electric trolling motor

that requires 24 volts to operate. Two or more batteries arc
necessary with this application. A series battery hookup
(Figure 61) provides 24 volts for the trolling motor.
A series connection provides the approximate total of
the two batteries (24 volts). The amperage provided is the
(62) ATTERY HOOKUP approximate average of one battery.
Connect the trolling motor batteries in a parallel ar-
(PARALLEL)
rangement (Figure 62) if the trolling motor requires 12
volts to operate.
The voltage provided is the approximate average of the
two batteries (12 volt). The amperage provided is the ap-
proximate total of the two batteries.
Follow the manufacturer's battery connection instruc-
1 To fishing motor tions for special quick connect plugs at the trolling motor.
Dedicate a battery for the gasoline motor if possible. This
avoids having a discharged battery from using the trolling
motor and other electrical accessories and no means to
start the gasoline engine.
TABLE 1 STARTING BATTERY SPECIFICATIONS

Minimum Minimum cold
Model ampere hour rating cranking rating
DF9.9, DF15 35 126
DF25, DF30 44 144
DF40, DF50 70 252
DF60, DF70 100 360
TABLE 2 BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE
(continued)
228 CHAPTER SEVEN
TABLE 2 BATTERY STATE OF CHARGE (continued)

Specific gravity reading Percentage of charge remaining
TABLE 3 BATTERY CAPACITY

Battery amperage rating Amperage draw Hours of usage
80 amp battery 5 13.5
15 3.5
25 1.8
105 amp battery 5 15.8
15 4.2
25 2.4
TABLE 4 ELECTRIC STARTER SPECIFICATIONS

Brush length
DF9.9, DF15, DF25, DF30 9.0-12.5 mm (0.35-0.49 in.)
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70 10.0-17.0 mm (0.39-0.67 in.)
Commutator undercut
All models 0.2-0.8 mm (0.008-0.031 in.)
Commutator diameter
DF9.9, DF15, DF25, DF30 29-30 mm (1.1 41-1.181 in.)
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70 32-33 mm (1.26-1.30 in.)
Commutator taper limit
All models 0.40 mm (0.015 in.)

N*m ft.-lb. in-lb.
Oil pressure switch 13 - 115
Electric starter mounting
6 mm bolts 11 - 97
8 mm bolts 23 17 -
Starter throughbolt 3 - 27
Chapter Eight
Power Head
This chapter provides removal and installation instruc- dard torque specifications are located in the Quick Refer-
tions for the power head and flywheel. Complete power ence Data section at the front of the manual. Tables 2-12
head repair instructions are also included. Removal and provide service specifications for the power head. Tables
installation instructions for the water jackets, exhaust 1-12 are located at the end of this chapter.
covers, thermostats and water pressure relief valve are in-
cluded in the cylinder block section of this chapter.
FLYWHEEL
Since this chapter covers a large range of power heads,
engines with similar service procedures are grouped to- This section provides removal and installation instruc-
gether. The components shown are generally from the tion for the flywheel and flywheel cover. If the power
most common models. While it is possible that the com- head has been removed before the flywheel, bolt the
ponents shown in the illustrations may not be identical to power head to a sturdy workbench before attempting to
those being serviced, the step-by-step instructions cover remove the flywheel. Use the mounting bolt holes or
every model in this manual. mounting studs at the base of the power head to attach the
Table 1 provides torque specifications. Use the stan- power head to the workbench. Ensure that at least four
dard specification for fasteners not listed in Table 1. Stan- bolts are attached to the workbench surface.
230 AFTER EIGHT
Flywheel Cover

tions for the flywheel cover. Similar procedures are used Bolt
for all models. Cover
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 1 !
2A. On DF9.9 and DF15 models remove the two bolts lo-
cated to the rear of the flywheel (Figure I), along with the
bolts on the port and starboard side of the flywheel.
2B. On DF25 and DF30 models remove the bolt from the
front side of the flywheel cover and the two bolts on the
rear port and starboard side of the flywheel cover.
2C. On DF40 and DF50 models remove the two bolts
from the front and front starboard side of the flywheel
cover. Remove the bolt located at the rear of the flywheel
cover.
2D. On DF60 and DF70 models remove the single screw
(Figure 2) from the front side of the flywheel cover. Care-
fully pry the cover loose from the grommets at the rear of
the cover.
3. Carefully lift the cover from the power head. Use com-
pressed air to remove belt material and other debris from
the power head and cover.
4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Note the follow-
ing:
a. Install all bushings, grommets and spacers upon as-
sembly.
b. Check for interference between the cover and mov-
ing engine components. Correct improper installa-
tion or replace missing components (bushings,
grommets, spacers) if interference occurs.
c. Securely tighten all fasteners.
d. Correct interference between the cover and other
components as soon the engine is started.
Flywheel
The following special tools are required to remove the

flywheel.
To remove the flywheel nut on DF9.9 and DF 15 mod- 1 Socket wrench
Flywheel /
els use the Suzuki flywheel-holding tool (part No.
09930-39520).
To remove the flywheel bolt on all other models use the
Suzuki flywheel holding tool (part No. 09930-48720)
To remove the flywheel from the crankshaft use the
Suzuki puller tool (part No. 09930-3941 1) and the Suzuki
puller bolts (part No. 09930-39420).
CA UTION
Use o* the appropriate tools and proce-
dures to remove the flywheel. Never strike
the flywheel with a hard object; the magnets
may break and result in poor ignition system
performance or potentially damage other'
engine components.
1A. On manual start models remove the manual starter as

1B. On electric start models remove the flywheel cover as
described in this section.
2. Place the flywheel holding tool onto the flywheel (Fig-
ure 3). Rotate the tool until the three or four threaded
holes in the flywheel align perfectly with the slots in the
holding tool. Install the puller bolts through the holding
tool and into the threaded holes in the flywheel. Tighten
the puller bolts until the holding tool seats against the fly-
wheel.
3. Remove the flywheel nut by turning it counterclock-
wise. Remove the puller bolts and lift the holding tool
(Figure 3) from the flywheel.
4. Position the flywheel puller onto the flywheel, as indi-
cated in Figure 4. Rotate the puller until the slots align
perfectly with the three threaded holes in the flywheel. In-
stall all three puller bolts (Figure 4) through the slots and
into the threaded holes. Thread them into the holes.
5. Maintain adequate bolt engagement into the flywheel
during the entire removal process. Adjust the puller by
threading the puller bolts into the flywheel until the flat
surfaces of the puller are parallel with the flywheel (Fig-
ure 5).
6. Turn the puller center bolt inward until it contacts the
top of the crankshaft. The center puller bolt must contact
the center of the crankshaft. Ensure the flywheel and flat
surfaces of the puller are parallel. Adjust the puller bolts
as necessary.
7. Use the handle on the flywheel-holding tool to prevent
the flywheel from rotating while turning the center puller
bolt clockwise. Turn the center puller bolt until it becomes
tight.
8. Provide support for the flywheel, then lightly tap the
center puller bolt (Figure 6) with a small hammer. Repeat
Steps 7 and 8 until the flywheel pops free from the crank-
shaft.
9. Remove the puller bolts and lift the flywheel puller
from the flywheel Remove the washer (Figure 7) from the
flywheel.
10. Carefully lift the flywheel from the crankshaft. Re-
move the Woodruff key from the slot in the crankshaft
(Figure 7). Inspect the ignition coils or flywheel magnets
if the key is not found in the slot. Inspect the key for corro-
sion. bent or marked surfaces. Replace the key if it is not
in excellent condition.
11. Using solvent, clean the crankshaft thread section,
key slot and tapered area (Figure 7). Use compressed air
232 CHAPTER EIGHT
to remove debris from the flywheel magnets and other

surfaces. Inspect the flywheel for cracked or damaged
magnets or other defects. Replace any component if de-
fects occur. @
12. Place a new Woodruff key into the key slot with the Woodruff k e y ^o/Ã‘Ã‘wash
rounded side toward the crankshaft. Position the flywheel
onto the crankshaft. Slowly rotate the flywheel to align
the slot in the flywheel with the Woodruff key. When the
flywheel drops onto the taper, rotate it while observing the
threaded end of the crankshaft. If the crankshaft does not
rotate along with the flywheel, remove the flywheel and
check for the proper position of the Woodruff key.
13. Place the flat washer over the crankshaft on the fly-
wheel. Lubricate the threads with engine oil and thread
the flywheel nut or bolt onto the crankshaft.
14. Install the flywheel-holding tool and handle as de-
scribed in Step 2. Use the handle on the flywheel-holding
tool to hold the flywheel while tightening the flywheel
nut. Tighten the flywheel nut to the specification listed in
Table 1.
15. Remove the special bolts and lift the flywheel hold-
ingtool from the flywheel. Install the manual starter or
flywheel cover.
POWER HEAD
REMOVAL/INSTALLATION/REPAIR
WARNING
The power head may abruptly separate from
the inidsection during removal and drop
from the hoist and/or strike other objects.
Avoid using excessive force when lifting the
power head. Use ply bars to separate the
power head from its mounting surface be-
fore lifting it with an overhead hoist.
CA UTION
Lift the power head slowly and maintain
support to lift the power head straight off
the midsection The drive shaft and other NOTE
components may be damaged i f the power A complete power head can we@ several
head is lifted or lowered at an angle hundred pounds. Obtain the proper lifting
equipment before attempting to remove the
CA UTION power head. Large engines (25 hp and
Check for overlooked jasfeners before at- greater) generally require an overhead
tempting to pn' the power head from the hoist to safely lift the power head.
n~idsectionCorrosion may prevent easy re-
moval of thepower head Applypenetrating
oil to the matingsurface and allow it to soak Ensure that the workbench is of appropriate size and
in for a few hours before atternpti~~gpower strength to accommodate the power head..
head removal To prevent damage to the
mounting surfaces, avoid tmng any sharp Use a power head workstand and holding fixture (Fig-
object to pry the components apart ure 8). Using these supports greatly reduces the chance of
POWER HEAD 233
dropping the power head, as well as allowing easier

access to the power head components.
NOTE
Take photographs and make notes o f all
hose, cable' and wire connections before be-
ginning to remove the power head. Mark all
hoses, wires and cables with u permanent
marker and tags before disconnection. In
many cases, these hoses, cables and wires
are much more accessible after the power
head is lifiedfrom the mounting surfaces.
Removal
1. Disconnect the battery, control cables and trim motor

wires as applicable.
a. On electric start or battery charging models discon-
nect the negative battery cable.
b. On power trim models disconnect the large diame-
ter blue and green wires from the trim relays.
c . On manual start models remove the manual starter
d. On remote control models remove the fasteners and
lift the remote control throttle and shift cables from
the power head. Lift both cables from their retainer
at the front and starboard side of the lower engine
cover. Route the cables to a location that prevents
them from entangling other components. Do not
place them near the battery. Disconnect the main
engine harness from the remote control harness.
c. On tiller control models disconnect the throttle ca-
bles from the throttle arm (Figure 9). Disconnect
the shift cable from the shift linkage.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the cylin-
der block. Disconnect thc positive battery cable from the
starter relay. Route the disconnected wires to a location
that prevents them from entangling other components
while lifting the power head.
3 Disconnect thc hose that connects the cylinder block to
the watei stream fitting at the rear of the lower engine
co\ei (Figure 10)
4 Disconnect the fuel supply hose (Figure 11) fio111 the
fuel filtei 01 the hose connector at the front of the lowci
engine cowl Place a container suitable for fuel undci the
hose clamp and disconnect the fuel supply hose f ~ o mthe
fitting just inside the lower engine covei Diain all fuel
from the d~sconnectedhose
5. Remove the lower engine covers and drain the engine
oil as described in Chapter Four
6. Remove the gearcase as described in Chapter Nine.
234 CHAPTER EIGHT
7A. On DF9.9 and DF15 models remove the four bolts lo-
cated on each side of the midsection-to-power head mat-
ing surface (Figure 12).
7B. On DF25 and DF30 models remove the six bolts lo-
cated on the starboard side of the midsection-to-power
head mating surface. Seven bolts are located on the port
side mating surface.
7C. On DF40 and DF50 models remove the four bolts and
one nut located on the starboard side of the
midsection-to-power head mating surface (Figure 13).
Four bolts are located on the port side mating surface
(Figure 14).
7D. On DF60 and DF70 models remove the four bolts lo-
cated on the starboard side of the midsection-to-power
head mating surface (Figure 14). Six bolts are located on
the port side mating surface.
8. Remove the oil dipstick from the power head.
9. Inspect the power head for cables, wires or hoses that
may interfere with removal.
10. Work carefully to avoid damaging the mounting sur-
faces. Carefully pry the power head loose from the power
head adapter or drive shaft housing (Figure 15). Check
for overlooked mounting bolts or nuts if the power head
cannot be separated from the midsection.
1 1 The power head assembly for DF9.9 and DF I5 mod-
els is relatively light and can be easily lifted with some as-
sistance. Other models require an overhead lift for
removal. Attach the lift to the power head as follows:
a. 011 DF25, DF30, DF40 and DF50 models attach the
overhead lift to the lifting hook mounted to the top
of the cylinder block (Figure 16).
b. On DF60 and DF70 models remove the mounting
bolt for the timing belt tensioner. Install a power
head lifting hook (Suzuki part No. 1 129 1-91850) to
the power head using the tensioner bolt opening
POWER HEAD 235
Alignment pin
(Figure 17). Securely tighten the lifting hook bolt.

Attach the overhead lift to the lifting hook.
12. Provide enough lifting force to slightly lift the power
head away from its mount. Use a pry bar to keep the power
head level while slowly lifting it from the midsection
(Figure 18).
13. Mount the power head in a holding fixture.
14. Remove the power head mounting gasket (Figure 19)
from the oil pan or power head adapter. Clean and inspect
the power head mounting surfaces for deep pits or exten-
sive corrosion. Replace the adapter if it is defective.
15. Inspect the power head and adapter plate mounting
surfaces for missing, bent or damaged alignment pins
(Figure 19). Replace any missing or damaged pins.
16. Inspect the locating pin holes in the power head and
its mounting surface for elongation or cracked areas. Re-
place any components with defective pin holes. Remove
tlie locating pins from tlie power head and install them
into their corresponding holes in the midsection.
17. Note the mounting location and seal lip directions,
then remove any seals or O-rings from the oil pan or
power head adapter. Never reuse gaskets, seals or O-rings.
18. Remove the power head adapter, oil pan and oil
pickup tube if the drained oil is contaminated andlor a
fault is suspected with the pickup tube. Repair instruc-
tions for these components are in Chapter Eleven.
19. On DF60 and DF70 models remove the lifting hook
(Figure 17) from the power head. Install the tensioner
bolt to retain the tensioner.
236 CHAPTER EIG
Installation
Work carefully to ensure that hoses, wires, and linkage @ Groove camshaft
are clear before lowering the power head into position.
n
CA UTION
DF25, DF30, DF60 and DF70 models uti-
lize an oil pump mounted to the bottom side
of the power head adapter. Align the oil
pump shaft to the camshaft slot (Figure 20)
while mating the power head to the
midsection. The oil pump and/or camshaft
will be damaged i f the power head is in-
stalled with these components misaligned.
1 Install the oil pan, power head adapter and other

midsection components as described in Chapter Eleven.
Install a new power head mounting gasket onto the power
head adapter or midsection mating surfaces. Lubricate
O-rings or seals with water resistant grease and install
them to the mounting surface.
2. On DF60 and DF70 models install the lifting hook to
the power head as described in removal in Step 1 1. Screw driver
3. Slowly lower the power head onto the oil pan or
midsection. Keep the flywheel as level as possible to
avoid damaging the drive shaft, gasket or mating surfaces.
Align the pin openings in the power head with the pins 10. Connect all throttle and shift cables to the throttle and
while lowering the power head to the midsection. Check shift linkage. Connect the fuel supply hose to the fuel fil-
for proper alignment of all gaskets, seals, O-ring and the ter or the quick connector.
oil pump (if applicable) prior to seating the power head to 11. Reverse Step 1 of Removal to connect the battery,
the midsection. control cables and trim motor wires as applicable.
12. Install new spark plugs as described in Chapter Four.
4. On DF25, DF30, DF60 and DF70 models remove the
plug from the oil pump stopper (Figure 20). Insert a 13. Perform all applicable adjustments as described in
screwdriver into the plug opening to rotate the oil pump Chapter Five.
shaft. Rotate the shaft to align the oil pump shaft with the 14. Perform the Break-in Procedures described in this
camshaft groove while mating the power head to the chapter.
adapter.
5. Install all power head mounting fasteners and tighten Repair
them to the specifications listed in Table 1. Refer to the
standard torque value in the Quick Reference Data section A complete power head rebuild requires numerous spe-
at the front of the manual if one is not listed. cial tools as well as a considerable amount of mechanical
6. On DF25, DF30, DF60 and DF70 models install the skill. A11 accurate torque wrench, precision measuring
plug into the oil pump stopper (Figure 20). Tighten the equipment and knowledge of their proper use is manda-
plug to the specification in Table 1. Bend the tabs against tory. Allow a reputable marine dealership to perform the
the stopper. power head rebuild if any of these requirements is lack-
ing.
7. Insert the oil dipstick. Fill the oil pan with oil as de- Much of the repair cost is due to the time required to re-
scribed in Chapter Four. move, disassemble and clean the components. Performing
8. Install the gearcase as described in Chapter Nine. these operations ahead of time can save a considerable
9. Install the lower engine covers as described in Chapter amount of labor expense. This also eliminates the incon-
Four. Connect the water stream hose to the fitting on the venience of transporting and storing the boat at the dealer-
lower engine cover. ship.
However, it is a good practice to replace all piston rings,
seals, rod bolts, gaskets and piston pin lockrings during
assembly. The cost of these components is small com-
pared to the damage they can potentially cause if they fail.
If bearings must be reused, make certain that they remain
in the same location from which they were removed. Pis-
ton rings must be replaced and cylinder bores honed any
time a piston is removed from its cylinder bore. Procure
these and other major components (pistons, crankshaft,
cylinder block) before beginning the repair.
Nut Make notes, drawings and photographs of all externally
mounted power head components before beginning
power head disassembly. Although illustrations are pro-
a
vided throughout this manual, the time taken to make
notes, drawings and photographs aids the assembly pro-
Raised boss
cess. Correct hose and wire routing are important for
proper engine operation. An incorrectly routed hose or
wire may interfere with linkage movement, resulting in a
dangerous lack of throttle control. Hoses or wires may
chafe and short or leak if allowed to contact sharp or mov-
ing parts. Other components (such as fuel pumps) can be
mounted in two or more positions. Note the up and for-
ward direction before removing any component. If possi-
ble, remove a section of components that share common
wires or hoses. This reduces the time to disassen~bleand
assemble the power head and reduces the chance of im-
proper connections during assembly.
Use muffin tins or egg cartons to organize the fasteners
as they are removed. Mark their location on the power
head.
Never reuse corroded or damaged fasteners. Replace
self-locking type fasteners with new ones. Connecting rod
bolts or nuts must be replaced once removed.
Crankshaft pulley
Timing Belt Removal and Installation

(DF9.9, DF15, DF60 and DF70 Models)
Many marine dealerships have a backlog during the
boating season. Performing labor-intensive removal, dis- The timing belt can be removed without removing or
assembly and cleaning can speed up the repair process. disassembling the power head.
Bear in mind that the dealership may not provide a war-
CA UTION
ranty on their work unless the removal and installation of Never rotate the crariksl~aftor camshaftpul-
the power head is performed by the dealership. ley with the timing belt removed or incor-
If intending to perform the entire repair without assis- rectly installed. I f the valves and pistons
tance, contact a Suzuki dealership to purchase the special contact, they may be damaged.
tools. Secure all tools before attempting to rebuild the
power head. Using makeshift tools can result in damage to DF9.9 and DF15 models
otherwise good power head components. Many times the
damage caused by using other tools far exceeds the cost of 1 Remove the flywheel as described in this chapter.
the special tool. 2. Set the engine at TDC by rotating the crankshaft pulley
Bearings and other internal power head components (Figure 21) clockwise until the mark on pulley aligns
can be removed and reused if they are in good condition. with the raised boss on the cylinder block and the cain-
238 CHAPTER EIGHT
Locknut
@ DF6O AND DF'70 MODEL
Screw
Valve
clearance
Camshaft pulley
shaft pulley mark (Figure 21) aligns with the raised boss
on the cylinder head.
3. Make a reference mark on the top of the timing belt in
the direction of rotation. Pull up on the timing belt to re-
move it from the crankshaft pulley. Slip the belt from the
crankshaft pulley.
4. Use compressed air to remove belt material and other
contaminants from the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys.
Inspect the timing belt for worn or damaged surfaces as
described in Chapter Four.
5. Make sure the engine is still at TDC. If not, rotate the
camshaft pulley to align the marks as follows:
a. Remove the rocker arm cover as described in Chap-
ter Four.
b. Loosen the lock nuts and fully loosen the valve ad-
crankshaft
justment screws (Figure 22). pulley
c. Adjust the valves as described in Chapter Five after
the belt is reinstalled.
6. Align the timing belt teeth with the teeth of the crank-
shaft pulley and install the belt around the pulley. If the
original belt is being used, make sure the belt is installed camshaft pulley aligns with the raised boss on the cylinder
so it rotates in the same direction head.
7. Align the timing belt teeth with the camshaft pulley
teeth. Do not rotate either pulley while pushing the timing 3. Loosen (do not remove) the two bolts (Figure 23) se-
belt onto the camshaft pulley. curing the tensioner to the cylinder block. Note the orien-
8. Install the flywheel as described in this chapter. Adjust tation of the arrow mark on the side of the timing belt. Pull
the valve clearance as described in Chapter Five. up on the timing belt to remove it from the camshaft pul-
ley. Slip the belt from the crankshaft pulley.
4. Use compressed air to remove belt material and other
contaminants from the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys.
Inspect the timing belt for worn or damaged surfaces as
1. Remove the flywheel as described in this chapter.
described in Chapter Four.
2. Rotate the crankshaft the pulley (Figure 23) clockwise
until the mark on pulley aligns with the raised boss on the 5. Make sure the engine is still at TDC. If not, rotate the
cylinder block and the No. 1 cylinder TDC mark on the camshaft pulley to align the marks as follows:
POWER HEAD 239
a. Remove the rocker arm cover as described in Chap-

Bolt
ter Four.
b. Loosen the lock nuts and fully loosen the valve ad-
justment screws (Figure 22).
c. Adjust the valves as described in Chapter Five after
the belt is reinstalled.
6. Align the timing belt teeth to the crankshaft pulley
teeth. Make sure the arrow mark faces the direction indi-
cated in Step 3.
7. Ensure that there is no slack in the belt on the opposite
side of the tensioner and install the belt onto the timing
pulley without rotating either pulley.
8. Without moving either pulley, slip the belt to the inside
of the tensioner pulley as indicated in Figure 23. Securely
tighten the tensioner bolts.
9. Install the flywheel as described in this chapter. Adjust
the valve clearance as described in Chapter Five.
Aligning pin
Timing Chain Removal and Installation
(DF25, DF30, DF40 and DF50 Models)
Removal and partial disassembly of the power head are

required for chain replacement.
1 . Remove the power head as described in this chapter.

2. Remove the rocker arm cover as described in Chapter
Four. Loosen the lock nut and fully loosen the nine valve
adjusting screws (Figure 22).
3. Remove the two bolts and lift the lower seal housing
(Figure 24) from the bottom of the cylinder block. With-
out damaging the seal bore, carefully pry the oil seal from
the housing.
4. Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the crankshaft
(Figure 25) aligns with the raised boss on the cylinder
block and the No. 1 mark 011 the camshaft sprocket aligns
with the arrow on the cylinder head (Figure 25).
5. Remove both bolts and the tension adjuster (2, Figure
26) from the cylinder block.
6. Remove the pivot bolt, spacer and cliain tensioner (3,
Figure 26) from the cylinder block.
7. Remove the bolts from each bracket (5 and 6, F'g ' 1 ure
26). Lift the chain guide from the cylinder block.
8. Remove the three bolts and slip the camshaft sprocket
(8, Figure 26) from the camshaft. Slip the timing chain (1,
Figure 26) from the crankshaft sprocket (4). Lift the chain
and camshaft pulley from the power head.
9. Clean and inspect all removed components for worn,
link
damaged or corroded surfaces. Replace questionable
components.
240 CHAPTER EIGHT
MODELS DF25 AND DF30
1. Timing chain
2. Tension adjuster
3. Chain tensioner
4. Crankshaft sprocket
5. Chain guide bracket
6. Chain guide bracket
7. Camshaft
8. Camshaft sprocket
9. Pivot bolt
10. To install the camchain, make sure the crankshaft

mark aligns with the raised boss as indicated in Figure 25.
If not, rotate the crankshaft until the alignment pin faces
away from the crankshaft as indicated.
11. Place the timing chain onto the camshaft sprocket Paperclip
with the colored link aligned with the arrow mark (Figure
25). Align the other colored link with the raised boss
while placing the timing chain onto the crankshaft.
12. Rotate the camshaft as required to align the pin open-
ing in the camshaft sprocket with the alignment pin. Seat
the sprocket onto the camshaft. Verify alignment of the ar-
row on the cylinder head and the No. 1 mark on the
sprocket. Correct the alignment as required.
13. Apply Suzuki thread lock (part No. 99000-32050) to
Tension adjuster body
the threads and install the three bolts into the sprocket
and camshaft. Tighten the bolts to the specification in
Table 1.
14. Position the chain guide against the timing chain.
Align the brackets (5 and 6, Figure 26) with the bolt holes
OWER HEAD 24 1
1. Blue colored link

2. Rear chain guide
3. Blue colored link
4. Camshaft sprocket
5. Tensioner link
6. Tension adjuster
7. Chain tensioner
8. Pivot bolt
9. Crankshaft
10. Raised boss
11. Yellow colored link
12. Timing chain
13. Side chain guide
14. Removable camshaft
sprocket
15. Arrow mark
in the cylinder block. Install the bolts into the brackets and 19. Rotate the crankshaft two revolutions and verify that
securely tighten them. the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks align as de-
scribed in Step 4. Correct improper timing as needed.
15. Position the chain tensioner in contact with the timing 20. Apply water resistant grease to the seal lip. Place the
chain as indicated in Figure 26. Install the spacer and new seal into the housing with the lip side facing the
pivot bolt (9, Figure 26). Securely tighten the bolt. crankshaft side of the housing. Press the seal fully into the
16. Move the latch (Figure 27) away from the notched bore with a seal driver or socket that is slightly smaller
side of the plunger. Push the plunger fully into the tension than the inside diameter of the housing bore.
adjuster body. Insert a straightened paper clip into the hole 21. Slide the seal lip over the crankshaft and seat the
in the latch and body to retain the plunger. lower seal housing to the cylinder block. Install and se-
curely tighten the housing mounting bolts (Figure 24).
17. Place the tension adjuster (2, Figure 26) onto the cyl- 22. Adjust the valves as described in Chapter Four.
inder block. Ensure the plunger contacts the chain
tensioner. Apply Suzuki thread lock (part No.
99000-32050) to the threads and install the tension ad- DF40 and DF50 models
juster bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specification listed in
1. Remove the power head as described in this chapter.
Table 1.
2. Remove the oil pump housing as described in this
18. Remove the paper clip from the tension adjuster. Coat chapter.
the timing chain and all related components with engine 3. Rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the crankshaft
oil. (9, Figure 28) aligns with the raised boss (10) on the cyl-
CHAPTER EIGHT
inder block. The colored links (1 and 3) of the chain must

align with the arrows on the camshaft sprockets (4 and
14).
4. Remove the bolts and the tensioner link (5, Figure 28).
Remove the pivot bolt (8, Figure 28), spacer and chain
tensioner. Remove both bolts and the tension adjuster (6,
Figure 28).
5 . Remove both bolts and the side chain guide (13, Fig-
ure 28). Remove both bolts and the rear chain guide (2,
Figure 28).
6. Secure the intake valve camshaft as indicated in Fig-
ure 29. Remove the three bolts and carefully pull the
sprocket from the camshaft. Slip the timing chain from the
sprockets.
7. Clean and inspect all removed components for worn,
damaged or corroded surfaces. Replace questionable
components.
8. To install the timing chain, make sure the crankshaft
mark aligns with the raised boss on the cylinder block
(Figure 30), correct misalignment before continuing.
9. Place the timing chain onto the crankshaft sprocket
with the yellow colored link (1 1, Figure 28) aligned with
the raised boss (10). Position the camshaft sprocket (14,
) onto the chain with the blue colored link (1)
aligned with the arrow mark (1 5). Wrap the chain onto the
remaining sprocket with the blue colored link (3, Figure
28) aligned with the arrow mark on the sprocket.
10. Align the pin opening in the camshaft sprocket with
the alignment pin on the camshaft (Figure 30) while seat-
ing the sprocket (14, Figure 28) onto the camshaft. Verify
alignment of the arrows and marks with the colored chain
links. Correct the alignment as required.
1 . Apply Suzuki thread lock (part No. 99000-32050) to
the threads then install the three bolts into the sprocket
and camshaft. Secure the intake camshaft as indicated in
Figure 29. Tighten the bolts to the specification listed in
Table 1.
12. Position the rear chain guide (2, Figure 28) against
the timing chain. Secure the guide with the two bolts.
Place the side chain guide (13, Figure 28) against the
chain. Secure the guide with the two bolts.
13. Position the chain tensioner in contact with the timing
chain as indicated in Figure 28. Install the spacer and
pivot bolt (8, Figure 28). Securely tighten the bolt.
14. Move the latch (Figure 27) away from the notched
side of the plunger. Push the plunger fully into the tension
adjuster body. Insert a straightened paper clip into the hole
in the latch and body to retain the plunger. ~ a i s e dboss
15. Place the tension adjuster (6, Figure 28) onto the cyl-
inder block. Apply Suzuki thread lock (part No.
99000-32050) to the threads and install the tension ad-
POWER HEAD 243
juster bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specification in Table

1.
16. Engage the tensioner link (5, Figure 28) against the
plunger portion of the tension adjuster (6). Install and se-
curely tighten the bolts to secure the link to the tensioner
(7, Figure 28).
17. Remove the paper clip from the tension adjuster. Coat
the timing chain and all related components with engine
oil.
18. Rotate the crankshaft two revolutions and verify cor-
rect camshaft timing as described in Step 3. Correct iin-
proper timing as needed.
19. Install the oil pump housing and the power head as
described in this chapter.
20. Adjust the valves as described in Chapter Four.
Oil Pump
Oil pump mounting location varies by nlodel.

OIL PUMP HOUSING
DF40 AND DF50 MODELS On DF9.9 and DF15 models, the oil pump is mounted to
the bottom of the cylinder head (Figure 31). On models
DF40 and DF50 the oil pump is mounted to a housing at-
tached to the bottom of the power head (Figure 32).
Apply sealant
Oil pump inspection and measurement instructions are
\ provided for DF40 and DF50 models. The oil pump on all
other models is non-serviceable. On these niodels, replace
the oil pump if low oil pressure occurs and excessive bear-
ing clearances or other causes are ruled out.
This section provides oil pump removal and installation
instructions for DF9.9, DF15, DF40 and DF50 models.
Refer to Power Head Adapter in Chapter Eleven for other
models.
1. Remove the four Allen bolts and carefully pull the oil
pump from the bottom of the cylinder head (Figure 31).
2. Wipe all contaminants from the oil pump to cylinder
head mating surfaces. Rotate the exposed shaft of the oil
pump and check for binding, roughness or looseness of
the shaft. Replace the oil pump if these conditions are
noted.
3. Lubricate the exposed shaft ends of the oil pump and
camshaft with engine oil. Rotate the oil pump shaft to
align the pin on the shaft with the slot on the camshaft
(Figure 31).
4. Align the oil pump shaft to the camshaft while install-
Oil cover ing the pump to the cylinder head. Rotate the pump
slightly as needed to align the shafts. The pump mates to
the cylinder head as the shafts align.
5. Install the four Allen bolts and tighten them to the
1. Remove the two bolts and lift the lower seal housing rotor
from the bottom of the cylinder block (Figure 24). With-
out damaging the seal bore, carefully pry the oil seal from
the housing.
2. Remove the seven bolts and carefully pry the oil pump
cover (Figure 32) from the bottom of the power head.
3. Remove the six screws and carefully lift the oil pump
cover (Figure 32) from the oil pump housing. Lift the in-
ner and outer rotor (Figure 33) from the oil pump hous-
ing.
4. Use a suitable solvent to clean all removed compo-
nents. Inspect the rotors and the oil pump housing for
worn, discolored or damaged surfaces. Replace all sus-
pect components.
5. Place the inner and outer rotor into the oil pump hous-
ing as indicated in Figure 33. Measure the clearance be-
tween the outer rotor and the oil pump housing (Figure
34). Replace the outer rotor and the oil pump housing if
the clearance exceeds 0.3 1 m m (0.012 in.).
6. Measure the oil pump side clearance as follows:
a. Place a straightedge on the oil pump housing (Fig-
ure 35). Ensure the straightedge spans the housing
and both rotors.
b. Hold down on the straightedge and with a feeler
gauge measure the clearance between the straight-
edge and the outer rotor.
c. Replace the outer rotor and the oil pump housing if
the clearance exceeds 0.15 mm (0.005 in.).
7. Apply engine oil to the inner and outer rotors. Install
the oil pump cover to the housing. Install and securely
tighten the six screws. Reach into the opening and rotate
the inner rotor. The oil pump must turn smoothly. Check
the installation if binding or roughness is noted.
8, Apply a bead of Suzuki bond (part No. 99000-3 1140)
to the housing and power head mating surfaces (Figure
32).
9. Align the pins while installing the oil pump housing to 11. Slide the seal lip over the crankshaft and seat the
the power head. Rotate the crankshaft to align it with the lower seal housing to the cylinder block. Install and sc-
drive surfaces for the oil pump. The housing seats to the curely tighten the housing mounting bolts (Figure 24).
power head as the surfaces align. Install and tighten the
seven bolts that retain the housing to the power head. CYLINDER HEAD
10. Apply water resistant grease to the seal lip. Place the
new seal into the housing with the lip side facing the This section provides removal, disassembly and assem-
crankshaft side of the housing. Press the seal fully into the bly instructions for the cylinder head. Component mea-
bore with a seal driver or socket that is slightly smaller surement requires precision measuring devices (Figure
than the inside diameter of the housing bore. 36). Have a reputable machine shop perform, the required
POWER HEAD 245
Removal and Installation
1. Remove the timing belt as described in this chapter.

Remove the rocker arm cover as described in Chapter
Five. Remove the carburetor and intake manifold as de-
scribed in Chapter Six.
2. Loosen the cylinder head bolts one-quarter turn at a
time and in the reverse order of the tightening sequence
(Figure 37).
3. Without damaging any mating surfaces, pry the cylin-
der head from the cylinder block. Remove the head gasket
from the cylinder head or cylinder block.
4. Inspect the cylinder head components as described in
this chapter and perform any needed repairs.
5. Place a new head gasket in position on the cylinder
TIGHTENING SEQUENCE block. Seat the cylinder head against the gasket. Apply a
DF9.9 AND DF15 light coating of engine oil to the cylinder head bolt threads
and install them into the cylinder block.
6. Tighten the head bolts in sequence (Figure 37) to
one-third the torque listed in Table 1. Tighten the bolts in
sequence to two-thirds the torque. Tighten the bolts a third
time to the torque specification.
7. Align the pulley marks and install the timing belt as de-
scribed in this chapter. Install the intake manifold and car-
buretors as described in Chapter Six. Adjust the valves as
described in Chapter Five.
1. Remove the timing chain as described in this chapter.

Five. Remove the carburetors and intake manifold as de-
scribed in Chapter Six.
2. Use a 10 mm deep socket to loosen the cylinder head
bolts. Loosen them one-quarter turn at a time and in the re-
verse order of the tightening sequence (Figure 38).
measurements if the equipment or experience is not avail- this chapter and perform any needed repairs.
able. 5. Place a new head gasket in position on the cylinder
Repair specifications for these components are in Table block. Ensure the gasket fits over both alignment pins.
5. 6. Rotate the crankshaft and camshaft to the positions in-
Check the cylinder block and cylinder head for warp dicated in Figure 25. Align the cylinder head to the align-
before installation. Clean the cylinder block holes with a ment pins and seat the cylinder head against the gasket.
thread chaser. Make sure the holes are clean and dry. Any Apply a light coat of engine oil to the cylinder head bolt
debris in the bolt holes may effect bolt torque. Make sure threads and install them into the cylinder block.
the mating surfaces are clean and dry. Do not apply seal- 7. Tighten the head bolts in sequence (Figure 38) to
ant to the mating surfaces. one-third the torque listed in Table 1. Tighten the bolts in
8. Align the marks and install the timing chain as de-
scribed in this chapter. Install the intake manifold and car-
buretors as described in Chapter Six. Adjust the valves
after power head installation as described in Chapter Five.
DF40 andDF5O models
1. Remove the timing chain as described in this chapter.

Five. Remove the intake manifold as described in Chapter
Six.
2. Position the power head on a sturdy work surface with
the cylinder head facing up. Make reference marks indi-
cating the mounting location and up side for each cam-
shaft cap (Figure 39).
3. Loosen the camshaft cap bolts one-quarter turn at a
(Figure 39). Support the camshafts while removing the
camshaft caps.
4. Lift the camshafts from the cylinder head. Use a 10
min deep socket to loosen the cylinder head bolts. Loosen
them one-quarter turn at a time and in the reverse order of
the tightening sequence (Figure 40).
block. Ensure the gasket fits over both alignment pins.
8. Align the cylinder head to the alignment pins and seat
the cylinder head against the gasket. Apply a light coat of
engine oil to the cylinder head bolt threads and install
them into the cylinder block.
9. Tighten the head bolts in sequence (Figure 40) to 30
N*m (22 ft-lb.). Fully loosen each bolt in the reverse of
the tightening sequence. Again tighten the bolts in se-
quence to 30 Nwm (22 ft-lb.). Tighten the bolts a third time
to the final specification in Table 1.
10. Apply engine oil to the camshaft journal and bearing
surfaces of the camshaft caps. Carefully place each cam-
shaft into position on the cylinder head with the marks
aligned as indicated in Figure 28. Install each canlshaft
cap (Figure 39) to its mounting location with the arrow
mark facing the flywheel.
11. Tighten the camshaft cap bolts in sequence (Figure
39) to one-third the torque in Table 1. Tighten the bolts in
12. Align the marks and install the timing chain as de-
scribed in this chapter. Install the intake manifold as dc-
scribed in Chapter Six. Adjust the valves after power head
installation as described in Chapter Five.
1. Remove the timing belt as described in this chapter.

Five. Remove the intake manifold as described in Chapter
Six.
2. Loosen the cylinder head bolts one-quarter turn at a
(Figure 41).
block. Fit the openings in the gasket over the alignment
pins on the cylinder block.
6. Rotate the crankshaft and camshaft to align the marks
as indicated in Figure 23. Align the pin openings and seat
the cylinder head against the gasket. Apply a light coat of
engine oil to the cylinder head bolt threads and install
them into the cylinder block.
CYLINDER HEAD 7. Tighten the head bolts in sequence (Figure 41) to 10
SEQUENC N a n (84 in-lb.). Tighten the bolts in sequence to 50 N m
70 MODEL (36 ft-lb.). Tighten the bolts a third time to the final speci-
fication in Table 1.
8. Align the pulley marks and install the timing belt as de-
scribed in this chapter. Install the intake manifold as de-
scribed in Chapter Six. Adjust the valves as described in
Chapter Five.
Disassembly and Assembly
Check the cylinder head for valve leakage as described

in this section before disassembly. Disassemble the cylin-
der head and inspect the valve seating surfaces if leakage
or an obvious defect is present. Cylinder head disassem-
bly and repair requires special equipment. If this equip-
ment is not available, entrust valve service to a machine
shop. Mark or make note of the mounting location and ori-
entation of all cylinder head components prior to remov-
ing them. Always mark the cylinder head side and spring
cap side of the valves to ensure proper orientation upon
assembly. Inspect all applicable components as described
in this chapter.
248 CHAPTER EIGHT
Port
Valve leakage inspection Pulley
1. Place the cylinder head on a suitable work surface with

the intake manifold ports located above the valves (Fig-
ure 42).
2. Observe the valves while pouring solvent or kerosene
into the intake and exhaust ports.
3. Disassemble the cylinder head and inspect the valves
and seats if significant leakage occurs.
4. Carefully invert the cylinder head and pour the solvent
from the ports.
DF9.9 and DFlS models
1. Securely clamp the cylinder head into a vice with soft

jaws.
2. Install an adjustable wrench to the hex shaped boss of
the camshaft pulley (Figure 43) to prevent rotation.
3. Remove the bolt and washer (Figure 43) from the pul-
ley. Lift the pulley and key from the camshaft. Remove
the oil pump as described in this chapter.
4. Thread an 8 mm bolt into the threads at the lower end
of the rocker arm shaft. Make notes indicating the loca-
tions of the two plain washers, three wave washers and the
rocker arm spring.
5. Use the 8 nun bolt to carefully pull the rocker arms
shaft from the cylinder head. Remove each component as
the shaft is removed. Remove the 8 mm bolt from the
rocker arm shaft.
6. Carefully pull the camshaft from the bore opening at
the bottom of the cylinder head.
7. Install the valve spring compressor (Suzuki part No.
099 16- 14510 and 099 16- 1452 1) over the valve and spring
as indicated in Figure 44. Tighten the valve spring corn-
POWER HEAD 249
Keepers
Spring cap Groove

Ãˆ 1 Valve stem
stem with engine oil and slide it into the valve guide. Seat
the valve against the seat.
11. Place the spring base, valve spring and spring cap
(Figure 45) onto the cylinder head. Install the valve
spring compressor over the valve and the spring cap as in-
dicated in Figure 44.
12. Compress the spring enough to fully expose the
keeper groove on the valve stem (Figure 47). Place the
keepers onto the valve stem as shown in Figure 47. Hold
the keepers in position and slowly loosen the compressor.
Inspect the keepers for proper position. Remove the valve
if the keepers are not seated within the spring caps. Install
the remaining valves, springs, caps and keepers.
13. Apply engine oil to the surfaces and carefully slide
the camshaft into the cylinder head.
14. Apply engine oil to the rocker arm shaft. Place the
four rocker arms, two plain washers, three wave washers
and the spring in position while sliding the rocker arm
shaft into the cylinder head. The threaded side of the
rocker arm shaft must face the bottom side of the cylinder
head.
15. Install the oil pump as described in this chapter. Place
the key (Figure 43) into the groove on the camshaft.
pressor enough to remove the keepers (Figure 45) from Align the groove in the camshaft pulley with the key
the valve stem. while sliding the pulley onto the camshaft.
16. Install the washer and bolt (Figure 43) into the cam-
8. Slowly loosen the valve spring compressor. Pull the shaft and pulley. Install an adjustable wrench to the hex
valve from the cylinder head. Lift the spring cap, valve shaped boss of the camshaft pulley to prevent rotation.
spring and spring base from the cylinder head. Tighten the camshaft pulley bolt to the specification listed
9. Mark each component as removed. Remove the re- in Table 1.
maining valves. Carefully pry the seal (Figure 45) from
the valve guide. Inspect and measure the cylinder head
DF25 andDFSO models
components as described in this chapter.
10. Lubricate the seal with engine oil and carefully press 1. Remove the four bolts and the camshaft cover from the
it onto the valve guide (Figure 46). Lubricate the valve top side of the cylinder head. Remove the gasket.
250 CHAPTER EIGHT
2. Remove the eight bolts and lift the rocker arm shafts
and retainers from the cylinder head. Mark the rocker
arms and springs to identify the mounting locations as
they are removed from the shafts.
3. Locate the two Phillips screws within the camshaft
cover opening. Remove the screws and carefully pull the
camshaft and thrust plate from the cylinder head. Intake rocker arm shaft

09916-145 10 and 099 16-14910) over the valve and spring
as indicated in Figure 44. Tighten the valve spring com-
- Flywheel side
pressor enough to remove the keepers (Figure 45) from

the valve stem.
5. Slowly loosen the valve spring compressor. Pull the
valves from the cylinder head. Lift the spring cap, valve
spring and spring base from the cylinder head.
6. Mark each component as removed. Remove the re-
maining valves. Carefully pry the seal (Figure 45) from
the valve guide. Inspect and measure all applicable cylin-
der head components as described in this chapter.
7. Lubricate the seal with engine oil and carefully press it
onto the valve guide (Figure 46). Lubricate the valve
stem with engine oil and slide it into the valve guide. Seat
the valve against the seat.
8. Place the spring base, valve spring and spring cap (Fig-
ure 45) onto the cylinder head. Install the valve spring
compressor over the valve and the spring cap as indicated
in Figure 44.
9. Compress the spring enough to fully expose the keeper
groove on the valve stem (Figure 47). Place the keepers
onto the valve stem. Hold the keepers in position and
slowly loosen the compressor. Inspect the keepers for
proper position. Remove the valve if the keepers are not
seated within the spring cap. Install the remaining valves,
springs, caps and keepers.
10. Lubricate the camshaft with engine oil and carefully
I
slide it into the bore at the bottom side of the cylinder
head. Engage the thrust plate to the groove on the cam-
shaft. Align the screw opening and install the phillips DF40 and DF50 models
screws into the thrust plate and cylinder head. Securely
tighten the screws. 1. Place the cylinder head on a sturdy work surface with
11. Install a new gasket to the camshaft cover. Install the the valve side facing down.
cover and four bolts to the cylinder head. Securely tighten 2. Use a permanent marker to identify the mounting loca-
the bolts. tion and lift each tappet (Figure 49) from the cylinder
12. Apply engine oil to the rocker arm shafts. Slide the head.
rocker arms and springs onto the rocker arm shafts. Orient 3. Install the valve spring compressor (Suzuki part No.
the notches in the shafts as shown in Figure 48. Place the 099 16- 14510 and 099 16-14910) over the valve and spring
rocker arm shafts onto the cylinder head. Install the four as indicated in Figure 44. Tighten the valve spring com-
retainers and eight bolts to the rocker arm shafts. Tighten pressor enough to remove the keepers (Figure 45) from
the retainer bolts to the specification in Table 1. the valve stem.
1. Securely clamp the cylinder head into a vice with soft

jaws.
2. Install an adjustable wrench to the hex shaped boss of
the canishaft pulley (Figure 50) to prevent rotation.
3. Remove the bolt and washer (Figure 50) from the pul-
Bolt ley. Lift the pulley and pin from the camshaft.
4. Remove the ten screws and lift the rocker arm shaft
and retainers from the cylinder head. Mark the rocker
Washer arms and springs to identify the mounting locations as
they are removed from the shafts.
5. Locate the two bolts within the camshaft opening on
the pulley side of the cylinder head. Remove the bolts and
the camshaft thrust plate from the cylinder head.
6. Remove the seal from the camshaft bore as follows:
a. Use a pick or scribe to bore a small hole in the oil
seal body.
b. Thread and appropriately sized screw into the hole.
c. Grip the screw with pliers and pull the seal from the
bore.
7 . Carefully pull the camshaft from the bore on the pulley
side of the head.
099 16-145 10 and 099 16-482 10) over the valve and spring
as indicated in Figure 44. Tighten the valve spring com-
4. Slowly loosen the valve spring compressor. Pull the pressor enough to remove the keepers (Figure 45) from
valve from the cylinder head. Lift the spring cap, valve the valve stem.
spring and spring base from the cylinder head. 9. Slowly loosen the valve spring compressor. Pull the
5. Mark each component as removed. Remove the re- valves from the cylinder head. Lift the spring cap, valve
maining valves from the cylinder head. Carefully pry the spring and spring base from the cylinder head.
seal (Figure 45) from the valve guide. Inspect and mea- 10. Mark the each component as removed. Remove the
sure all cylinder head components as described in this remaining three valves. Carefully pry the seal (Figure 45)
chapter. fro111 the valve guide. Inspect and measure all cylinder
6. Lubricate the seal with engine oil and carefully press it head components as described in this chapter.
onto the valve guide (Figure 46). Lubricate the valve I 1. Lubricate the seal with engine oil and carefully press
stem with engine oil and slide it into the valve guide. Seat it onto the valve guide (Figure 46). Lubricate the valve
the valve against the seat. stem with engine oil and slide it into the valve guide. Seat
7. Place the spring base, valve spring and spring cap (Fig- the valve against the seat.
ure 45) onto the cylinder head. Install the valve spring 12. Place the spring base, valve spring and spring cap
compressor over the valve and the spring cap as indicated (Figure 45) onto the cylinder head. Install the valve
in Figure 44. spring compressor over the valve and the spring cap as in-
8. Compress the spring enough to fully expose the keeper dicated in Figure 44.
groove on the valve stem (Figure 47). Place the keepers 13. Compress the spring enough to fully expose the
onto the valve stem. Hold the keepers in position and keeper groove on the valve stem (Figure 47). Place the
slowly loosen the compressor. Inspect the keepers for keepers onto the valve stem. Hold the keepers in position
proper position. Remove the valve if the keepers are not and slowly loosen the compressor. Inspect the keepers for
seated within the spring cap. Install the remaining valves, proper position. Remove the valve if the keepers are not
springs, caps and keepers. seated within the spring cap. Install the remaining valves,
9. Lubricate the surfaces of each tappet (Figure 49) with springs, caps and keepers.
engine oil and place them into their original locations in 14. Lubricate the camshaft with engine oil and carefully
the cylinder head. slide it into the bore at the bottom side of the cylinder
252 CHAPTER EIGHT
head. Engage the thrust plate to the groove on the cam-

shaft. Align the bolt opening and install the bolts into the
thrust plate and cylinder head. Securely tighten the bolts.
15. Place a new camshaft seal into the bore with the lip
facing in. Carefully press the seal into the bore with a seal
driver or socket that is slightly smaller in diameter than
the bore. Press the seal into place until the outer surface of
the seal is approximately 0.5 mrn (0.020 in.) below the
Pulley
bore opening surface. side
16. Apply engine oil to the rocker arm shafts. Slide the
rocker arms and springs onto the rocker arm shafts. Orient
the notches in the shafts as shown in Figure 51. Place the Exhaust
rocker arm shafts onto the cylinder head. Install the five
retainers and ten bolts to the rocker arm shafts. Install the
shaft assemblies to the cylinder head. Tighten the retainer
bolts to the specification in Table 1.
17. Place the pin (Figure 50) into the opening on the
camshaft. Align the opening in the camshaft pulley with
the pin while sliding the pulley onto the camshaft.
18. Install the washer and bolt (Figure 50) into the cam-
shaft and pulley. Install an adjustable wrench to the hex
shaped boss of the camshaft pulley to prevent rotation.
Tighten the camshaft pulley bolt to the specification in
Table 1.
Inspection
This section provides inspection and measurement in-

structions for the cylinder head components. Clean all
components with solvent and dry them with compressed
air. Clean one component at a time. The solvent may re-
move identification marks. Renew marks as required.
Measure all components at room temperature and use ac-
curate measuring equipment.
Cylinder head
1. Remove the carbon deposits after removing the valves

from the cylinder head. Use caution to avoid damaging
the valve seating surface. Use a blunt tip scraper to re-
move deposits from the combustion chamber (Figure 52).
Avoid scraping aluminum material from the surfaces.
2. Inspect water passages for corrosion deposits and de-
bris. Remove debris and clean corrosion as needed.
3. Check for surface warp by placing a straightedge at
various points (Figure 53) on the cylinder head mating
surface. Hold a straightedge firmly against the head. Use a
feeler gauge to check the gap at the midpoint in the
straightedge. Compare the thickness of the feeler gauge
that can be passed under the straightedge (Figure 54) with
the warp limit in Table 2.
POWER HEAD 253
Cam height
Cam height 1
Cam
5. Stop periodically and recheck the distortion. Do not re-

move an excessive amount of material.
6. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head with hot soapy wa-
ter and dry with compressed air.
7. Have a reputable machine shop perform this operation
if a surfacing plate is not available.
Camshaft
Inspect the camshaft surfaces for worn or damaged sur-

faces (Figure 56). Replace the camshaft if visual defects
are noted. Perform all applicable measurements to the
camshaft. Replace excessively worn components.
1. Measure the height of the camshaft lobes as indicated
in Figure 57 with a micrometer. Record the measurement
for each lobe on the camshaft. Compare the measurement
with the specification in Table 3. Replace the camshaft if
any lobe height measurement is less than the minimum
specification.
2. Measure the camshaft (Figure 57) where the bearing
journals contact the cylinder head surface. Compare the
measurement with the specification in Table 3. Replace
the camshaft if the measurement is less than the minimum
specification.
3. On DF40 and DF50 models install the camshaft caps
as described in Cylinder Head.
4. Measure the camshaft bore within the cylinder head
4. Measure the intake and exhaust manifold mating sur- (Figure 58) with a micrometer. Measure the bore at each
faces as well. True minor distortion by placing a sheet of journal contact surface. Compare the measurement with
600-grit abrasive paper on a surfacing plate. Use slight the specification in Table 3. Replace the cylinder head if
downward pressure and move the cylinder head in a figure any of the bore measurements exceed the maximum spec-
eight motion as shown in Figure 55. ification.
254 CHAPTER EIGH
5 . Determine the camshaft oil clearance by subtracting

the camshaft journal diameter from its corresponding cyl-
inder head bore diameter. Compare the clearance with the
specification listed in Table 3. Check all measurements if
an incorrect oil clearance exists. Replace the camshaft if
the journal diameters are near the minimum diameter. Re-
place the cylinder head if excessive oil clearance exists
and the camshaft diameter is within the specification.
6. On DF25, DF30, DF40 and DF50 models support the
camshaft with V-blocks under the top and bottom jour-
nals. Align the tip of a dial indicator with one of the mid-
dle journals (Figure 59). Slowly rotate the camshaft and
record the camshaft runout. Replace the camshaft if the
camshaft runout exceeds the specification in Table 3.
Rocker arms, shafts and tappets
Component usage varies by models. Inspect compo-

nents for worn, discolored or damaged surfaces. Perform
all applicable measurements and replace damaged or ex-
cessively worn components.
1. Measure the rocker arm bore diameter (Figure 60)
with a micrometer. Replace the rocker arm if its measure-
ment exceeds the specification in Table 4.
2. Measure the rocker arm shaft at the rocker arm contact
surfaces (Figure 61) with a micrometer. Replace the
rocker arm shaft if any measurement is less than the speci-
3. Determine the rocker arm-to-shaft clearance by sub-
tracting the rocker arm shaft diameter from the rocker arm
bore diameter. Compare the clearance with the specifica-
tion in Table 4. Check all measurements if an incorrect oil
clearance exists. Replace the rocker arm shaft if its diame-
ter is near the minimum specification. Replace the rocker
POWER HEAD 255
arms if excessive clearance exists and the shaft diameter is

within the specification.
4. On DF40 and DF50 models measure the tappet and
tappet bore as follows:
a. Use an outside micrometer to measure the outside
diameter of the tappets. Record the measurement
for each tappet.
b. Measure the tappet bore diameters in the cylinder
head. Record the diameter for each tappet.
c. Compare each tappet and tappet bore diameter with
the specification in Table 4. Replace any tappets
with a measurement less than the minimum specifi-
cation. Replace the cylinder head if any of the bore
diameters exceed the maximum specification.
d. Determine the tappet-to-bore clearance by subtract-
ing the tappet diameter from its corresponding bore
diameter. Check all measurements if the clearance
exceeds the specification in Table 4. Replace the
tappet if its diameter is near the minimum specifica-
tion. Replace the cylinder head if excessive clear-
ances exist and the corresponding tappet is within
the specification.
5. On DF25, DF30, DF60 and DF70 models support the
ends of the rocker arm shaft on V-blocks as indicated in
Figure 62. Align the tip of a dial indicator to the middle of
the shaft and record the shaft runout. Slowly rotate the
rocker am1 shaft. Replace the shaft if the runout exceeds
Valves components
Inspect the valve face (Figure 63) and valve seats (Fig-
ure 64) for pitting, cracked, corroded or damaged sur-
faces. Inspect the valve stem (Figure 63) for wo1-n or
damaged surfaces. Measurement and repairs to valves,
valve seats and guides requires specialized equipment
(Figure 65) and experience in its use. Have a machine
256 CHAPTER EIGHT
shop surface the valves and seats if worn or damaged sur-

faces are noted. Perform all applicable measurements if a
visual inspection reveals no defects.
1 Measure the inside diameter of the valve guides (Fig-
ure 66). Have a machine shop install new valve guides if
the measurement exceeds the specification in Table 5.
2. Measure the diameter of the valve stems (Figure 67) at
several locations along the length. Replace any valves
with a stem diameter less than the minimum specification
in Table 5.
3. Detcrrnine the valve stem-to-guide clearance (Figure
68) by subtracting the valve stem diameter from the corre-
sponding valve guide diameter. Compare the clearance
with the specification in Table 5. Replace the cosrespond-
ing valve if its diameter is near the minimum specifica-
tion, otherwise have the valve guide replaced at a machine
shop.
4. Measure the valve seat width (Figure 64). Have the
valve seat surfaced at a machine shop if the width exceeds
5. Measure the valve head thickness (Figure 69). Re-
place the valve if the thickness is less than the minimum
6. Measure the distance between the keeper groove and
the end of the valve stem (Figure 70). Replace the valve if
the measurement is less than the stem end length specifi-
cation in Table 5.
7. Place the valve in a V-block as indicated in Figure 71.
Align the tip of a dial indicator to the middle of the stem
and record the amount of stem runout. Slowly rotate the
valve. Replace the valve if the stem runout exceeds the
8. Place the valve stem in a V-block as indicated in Fig-
ure 72. Align the tip of a dial indicator to the edge of the
valve and record the valve head runout. Slowly rotate the
POWER HEAD 257
valve. Replace the valve if the runout exceeds the

9. Use a caliper to measure the valve spring free length
Dial
(Figure 73). Do not compress the spring during the mea-
indicator 11 surement. Replace the spring if the measurement is less
than the minimum specification in Table 6.
10. Measure the valve spring tension (Figure 74) or have
a machine shop perform the procedure. Compress the
spring to the height indicated in Table 6. Replace the
spring if the spring tension is less than the minimum spec-
ification.
11. Place the valve spring on a flat surface. Use a square
to measure the amount the spring is out of square (Figure
75). Replace the valve spring if the measurement exceeds
the specification in Table 6
258 CHAPTER EIGHT
CYLINDER BLOCK
COMPONENT REMOVAL
The number and appearance of the components vary by

model, however the repair procedures for each are similar.
Models specific instructions are provided when applica-
ble.
To reduce the chance of improper assembly, take photo-
graphs or make drawings indicating the hose routing and
connection points prior to removing any components
from the power head.
Take all necessary steps to mark the mounting location
and orientation of components as they are removed. Bear-
ing, piston and ring sizes can vary from one cylinder to the
next. Improper clearances can occur if components from
one cylinder are installed in another cylinder. Replace-
ment of otherwise good parts may be required to correct
the clearance.
WARNING
Wear safety glasses when removing or in-
stalling theflywheel or other components of
the engine. Never use a hammer or other
tools without wearing safety glasses.
Thermostat Removal and Installation

1 Gasket
Bolt
\
The mounting location for the thermostat varies by
model.
On DF9.9 and DF15 models, the thennostat is located
beneath a cover (Figure 76) on the upper rear starboard
side of the cylinder block.
On DF25, DF30, DF40 and DF50 models, the themo-
stat is located beneath a cover (Figure 77) on the top of her most at 1
or valve Cover
the power head behind the lifting hook.
On DF60 and DF70 models, the thermostat is located
beneath a cover (Figure 78) on the upper rear and star-
board side of the power head.
1. Remove the hose from the fitting on the thermostat
cover. Note the orientation of the hose fitting and remove 3. Test the thermostat as described in Chapter Three. Re-
the bolts from the cover. place the thermostat if corroded or damaged or if it tests
2. Use a plastic mallet to tap the cover loose from the cyl- incorrectly. Clean all corrosion from the thermostat cover,
inder block. bolt threads and the recess in the cylinder block.
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models remove the gasket 4. Installation is the reverse of ren~oval.Note the follow-
(Figure 76) from cover or cylinder block. ing:
b. On DF25, DF30, DF40 and DF50 models lift the a. Place the thermostat into the cylinder block urith the
thennostat from the recess in the cylinder block. spring and copper plug side into the cylinder block.
c. On DF60 and DF70 models remove the gasket (Fig-
ure 78) from the cover or cylinder block. Lift the b. Replace all O-rings, gaskets and seals.
seat, thermostat and seal from the recess in the cyl- c. Tighten the cover bolts to the specification in Table
inder block. 1.
POWER HEAD 259
Refer to Chapter Eleven for replacement instruction on

DF25, DF30, DF40 and DF50 models.
1. Remove the hose from the fitting on the cover (Figure
76). Note the orientation of the hose fitting and remove
the bolts from the cover.
2. Use a plastic mallet to tap the cover loose from the cyl-
inder block.
3. Use needlenose pliers to pull the valve from the cylin-
der block. Clean corrosion or other contaminants from the
valve, bolt threads and the recess in the cylinder block.
4. Inspect the valve for corroded, worn or damaged sur-
faces. Inspect the spring within the valve for corrosion
damaged loops or debris. Replace the valve if any defects
are noted.
5. Place the valve into the recess with the valve oriented
@ THERMOSTAT as shown in Figure 76. Coat the surfaces with Suzuki
bond (part No. 99000-3 1030) and place a new gasket on
the cover. Install the cover with the fitting oriented as
noted prior to removal.
6. Install the cover bolts and tighten them to the specifi-
cation in Table 1. Slip the hose onto the fitting and secure
it with the clamp. Check for proper cooling system opera-
tion.
Exhaust Cover and Water Jacket

(DF25, DF30, DF60 and DF70)
The fasteners for these components are often corroded.

Corroded fasteners can be quite difficult to remove. Avoid
using excessive force if a fastener is seized. Considerable
time and expense is wasted in removing the remnants of
broken fasteners. Use patience and refer to Chapter Two
for useful tips on removing stubborn or broken fasteners.
Loosen bolts gradually (114 turn at a time) in the reverse
of the tightening sequence cast into the cover. This impor-
tant step can greatly reduce the chance of cover distortion.
If it is necessary to pry the cover loose from the cylinder
block, use a blunt tipped pry bar and pry on the pry bar
notches located on the top and bottom mating surfaces.
Using excessive force, sharp tools, or prying on surfaces
other than the provided notches can damage the mating
d. Slip the hose over the fitting and secure the hose surfaces.
with the clamp.
5. Check for proper cooling system operation.
Water Pressure Relief Valve 1. Locate the cover on the rear port side of the power
(DF60 and DF70) head. Loosen the eight bolts it the reverse of the tightening
sequence cast into the cover.
The water pressure relief valve is located beneath a 2. Carefully pry the cover from the cylinder block. Re-
cover (Figure 76) on the upper starboard side of the cylin- move all gasket material from the cover and cylinder
der block and just forward of the exhaust manifold. block.
260 CHAPTER EIGHT
1. Stud
-14 2. ~ u t
3. Bolt
4. Bolt
5. Anode cover
6. Gasket
7. Anode
8. Bolt
9. Plug
10. Gasket
11. Bolt
12. Cover
3. Thoroughly clean all debris from the cooling passages. 4. Remove the two bolts (4, Figure 79) and pull the an-
4. Place a new gasket on the cover. Seat the cover to the ode cover (5) and gasket from the cover ( 1 2).
cylinder head. Install the eight bolts and tighten them to 5. Inspect the anode (7, Figure 79) for deep pitting or
the specification in Table 1. corrosion. Remove the screw (8, Figure 79) and replace
the anode as needed.
6. Thoroughly clean the cover-to-cylinder block mating
DF60 and DF70 models surfaces. Use a thread chaser to clean corrosion from the
bolts.
7. Install the nine plugs (13, Figure 79) into the corre-
1 Disconnect the water stream hose from the fitting on
sponding openings in the cover. Place a new gasket ( 14,
the bottom of the cover (12, Figure 79). Gradually loosen
Figure 79) onto the cover. Slide the cover over the studs
the eight bolts and four nuts in the reverse of the tighten-
and seat it against the cylinder block. Install the bolts and
ing sequence.
nuts and tighten them in sequence to the specification in
2. Carefully pry the cover from the cylinder block. Re- Table 1.
move all the gasket material (14, Figure 79) from the 8. Install the gasket and plug (9, Figure 79). Place a new
cover and cylinder block. gasket on the anode cover (5, Figure 79) and install it into
3. Remove the plug and gasket (9 and 10, Figure 79) the cover (12). Securely tighten the bolts.
from the cover. Pull the nine plugs (13, Figure 79) from 9. Connect the water stream hose to the fitting on the bol-
the openings in the cover. tom of the cover. Secure the hose with the clamp.
OWER HEAD 26
Crankshaft adapter
AND DF15 MODEL
Nut
Lockwasher
Lower pulley
3. Place a wrench on the flywheel nut as shown in Figure

81. Hold the crankshaft adapter stationary with a socket
and breaker bar and loosen the nut.
Lower plate
4. Remove the nut and lockwasher from the crankshaft.
Remove the flywheel key from the crankshaft. Lift the up-
per plate, pulley and lower plate (Figure 80) from the
crankshaft. Remove the pulley key from the crankshaft.
5 . Clean all contaminants from the crankshaft taper with
Crankshaft Pulley an oil soaked shop towel. Inspect the pulley and plates for
worn or damaged surfaces and replace as needed.
This section provides removal and installation instmc-
tions for the crankshaft pulley. First remove the flywheel 6. Place the lower plate onto the crankshaft with the
and timing belt as described in this chapter. Remove the curved edge facing the cylinder block. Place the pulley
crankshaft pulley following the instructions for the se- key into the crankshaft slot.
lected model 7. Align the slot in the pulley with the key while placing it
on the crankshaft. Rotate the lower plate to align the opcn-
CA UTION ings with the protrusion on the bottom of the pulley. Seat
Do not allow any crankshaft rotation ifre- the pulley and lower plate on the crankshaft.
moving the crankshaftpulley with the c$in- 8. Place the upper plate on the pulley with the curved
der head installed. Damage to the valves edge facing away from the cylinder block. Rotate the plate
andpistons will occur.
to align the openings with the protrusions on the top side
of the pulley. Seat the plate against the pulley.
DF9.9 and DF15 models 9. Place the tab on the lockwasher into the opening in the
upper plate. Seat the washer against the plate. Apply
A Suzuki crankshaft adapter (part No. 099 11-493 10) is S u z ~ ~thread
ki lock (part No. 99000-32050) to the threads
required for this procedure. and thread the nut onto the crankshaft.
1. Bend the lockwasher tabs (Figure 80) away from the 10. Place the flywheel key into the slot in the crankshaft.
nut. Align the slot in the crankshaft adapter (Figure 81) with
2. Place the flywheel key into the slot in the crankshaft. the key and seat the adapter to the crankshaft taper.
Align the slot in the crankshaft adapter (Figure 81) with 11. Place a wrench on the flywheel nut as shown in Fig-
the key and seat the adapter to the crankshaft taper. ure 81. Hold the crankshaft adapter stationary with a
262 CHAPTER EIGHT
socket and breaker bar. Tighten the nut to the specifica-

tion in Table 1.
12. Bend the tabs of the lockwasher against the flat sides
@ CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
of the nut. Install the timing belt and flywheel as described DF60 AND DF70 MODELS
in this chapter.

Nut
A Suzuki crankshaft adapter (part No. 099 1 1-499 10) is

required for this procedure.
1. Place the flywheel key into the slot in the crankshaft.
Align the slot in the crankshaft adapter (Figure 81) with Upper plate
the key and seat the adapter to the crankshaft taper.
2. Place a wrench on the flywheel nut as shown in F'g '1 ure
81. Hold the crankshaft adapter stationary with a socket
and breaker bar and loosen the nut.
3. Remove the nut and washer from the crankshaft. Re-
move the flywheel key from the crankshaft. Lift the upper Pulley/
plate, pulley and lower plate (Figure 82) from the crank-
shaft. Remove the pulley key from the crankshaft.
4. Clean all contaminants from the crankshaft taper with Lower plate'
an oil soaked shop towel. Inspect the pulley and plates for
worn or damaged surfaces and replace as needed.
5. Place the lower plate onto the crankshaft with the
curved edge facing the cylinder block. Place the pulley
key into the crankshaft slot.
6. Align the slot in the pulley with the key while placing it
on the crankshaft. Rotate the lower plate to align the open-
ings with the protrusion on the bottom of the pulley. Seat
the pulley and lower plate on the crankshaft.
7. Place the upper plate on the pulley with the curved
edge facing away from the cylinder block. Rotate the plate
to align the openings with the protrusions on the top side
of the pulley. Seat the plate against the pulley.
8. Place the washer (Figure 82) onto the crankshaft with
the concave side facing the upper plate. Thread the nut
onto the crankshaft.
9. Place the flywheel key into the slot in the crankshaft.
Align the slot in the crankshaft adapter (Figure 81) with
the key and seat the adapter to the crankshaft taper.
10. Place a wrench on the flywheel nut as shown in Fig-
ure 81. Hold the crankshaft adapter stationary with a
socket and breaker bar. Tighten the nut to the specification tern components as described in this manual. Remove any
in Table 1. remaining brackets or linkage from the cylinder block.
1 . Install the timing belt and flywheel as described in Place the cylinder block on a sturdy work surface with the
this chapter. cylinder head side down.
NOTE
CYLINDER BLOCK DISASSEMBLY Keep components organized @ cylinder as
they are removed. Use an ink marker that
Remove the flywheel and cylinder head as described in can withstand solvent cleaning or a scratch
this chapter. Remove all fuel, electrical and ignition sys- awl.
JENCE
Crankcase Cover
1A. On DF9.9 and DF15 models remove the oil pressure

relief valve and hose from the bottom of the cylinder
block.
IB. On DF40 and DF50 models remove the five bolts and
carefully pry the oil seal housing from the top of the
power head. Note the seal lip direction and carefully pry
the seal from the crankshaft.
2. Loosen the crankcase bolts (Figure 83) in the reverse
of the tightening sequence and refer to the following:
a. Figure 84 for DF9.9 and DF15 models.
b. Figure 85 for DF25, DF30, DF40 and DF50 mod-
els.
c. Figure 86 for DF60 and DF70 models.
3. Locate the cast in notches at the crankcase
cover-to-cylinder block mating surfaces. Work carefully
to avoid damaging the mating surfaces. Use two blunt pry
264 CHAPTER EIGHT
0 PRWNG CRANKCASE
COVER FROM BLOCK
bars (Figure 87) and apply even pressure on each side of

the cylinder block and carefully pry the crankcase cover 1. Rod bolt
2. Rod cap
from the cylinder block (Figure 88). 3. Rod bearing (insert type)
4. Note the seal lip direction and pull the oil seal(s) from 4. Connecting rod
the crankshaft (Figure 89). 5. Piston
Piston, Rod and Bearing

nuts and gently tap the rod cap loose from the connecting
rod.
Use a felt tip marker or paint to mark the cylinder num-
3. Remove the rod cap and bearing (Figure 93) from the
ber on each piston, rod and rod cap (Figure 90) prior to re-
crankshaft. Keep the bearing with the rod cap.
moval. The rod cap is matched to the connecting rod.
4. Mark the up side on the piston dome (Figure 94) prior
Install the cap onto the rod in the proper position immedi-
to removal. Use a large wooden dowel or hammer handle
ately after removing the piston and rod from the cylinder
to push the piston and rod assembly from the cylinder
block. Do not intennix components.
block (Figure 95). Repeat Steps 1-4 for the remaining pis-
1. Mark on the rod cap-to-connecting rod mating sur- tons.
faces (Figure 91) prior to removing the cap. Provide con- 5. Carefully pry the bearings from the connecting rod and
tinuous support for the piston until removed. cap.
2. Alternately loosen each rod cap bolt or nut (Figure 6. Carefully remove each piston ring from the piston us-
92) in one-quarter turn increments. Remove the bolts or ing a piston ring expanding tool (Figure 96). Keep the
POWER HEAD 265
Crankshaft
Insert type bearing

d < 3 i
Rod cap Â¥Ã‘Ã‘Ã (^
@
266 CHAPTER EIGHT
rings arranged so they can be identified as top, second and

bottom rings.
7A. On all models, except DF60 and DF70 models, disas-
semble the piston and rod as follows:
a. Use a sharp pick, needle nose pliers or a small
screwdriver to remove both lockrings from the pis-
tons (Figure 97). Place a shop towel over the
lockring and hold a finger or thumb against the
locking opening during removal to prevent the ring
from springing free. Use a socket or section of tub-
ing that is slightly smaller than the piston pin diam-
eter to push the piston pin from the piston and rod.
Refer to Table 8 for the piston pin diameter.
7B. On DF60 and DF70 models, the piston pin is a press
fit. Remove the piston only if replacing the piston or rod.
Have a machine shop remove and install the piston pin(s)
on these models. The piston is easily damage if improper
equipment or procedures are used.
Crankshaft and Main Bearing
CA UTION
Avoid using excessive force when removing
the crankslmft from the cylinder block. The
use of excessiveforce may dislodge or dam-
age the main bearings or cause damage to
the cylinder block or other components.
1. Carefully pry the main bearings from the crankcase

cover (Figure 98).
2. Provide padding to prevent damage to the mating sur-
faces (Figure 99). Carefully pry the crankshaft from the
cylinder block.
3. Carefully pry the main bearings from the cylinder
block. Identify and arrange the main bearings so they can
be installed in their original position.
4. On all models, except DF9.9 and DF15 models, re-
move the thrust bearing (Figure 100) from the cylinder
block
5. Clean, inspect and measure components as described
in this chapter.
CYLINDER BLOCK CLEANING
Install all components to the same cylinder or position.

Wear patterns form on any contact surface during use.
Maintaining the wear patterns helps ensure a durable and
reliable repair.
Use compressed air to blow loose debris from the com-
ponents. Wash all components (except the cylinder block)
one at a time. Make sure that the marks are present after
washing. Mark the cylinder number on the component
OWER HEAD 267
again, if needed. Allow the solvent to drain for a few min-

utes and use compressed air to remove remaining solvent,
After drying them, cover the components with clean
lint-free towels to protect them from dust or debris con-
1 Thrust bearings 1 tamination.
Cylinder Block and Exhaust Cover
Clean tlie cylinder block and exhaust cover with hot

soapy water and then rinse with pressurized water. Dry the
cylinder block, covers and cylinder heads with com-
pressed air. Apply engine oil to the cylinder walls to pre-
vent corrosion.
Reniovc corrosion, carbon deposits or gasket material
from the exhaust cover and all mating surfaces with a
blunt tip scraper.
CA UTION
Never use a wire brz~d1to remove gasket
material, carbon or other deposits from the
power head components. Delicate surfaces
are damaged quickly by a wire brush Also
metallic particles may become embedded in
the suyfaces.
Pistons
Remove carbon deposits from tlie top of the piston with

a dull chisel or a blunt scraper (Figure 101). Use very
light force to prevent gouging or scratching of the piston.
Remove any remaining carbon deposits with a
Scotchbrite pad and mild solvent.
CA UTION
Never use a wire brush to remove carbon
from the piston. Small steel particles may
become embedded into the piston surface.
These small particles glow when hot and
promote pre-ignition or detonation damage
to the piston.
Remove carbon from the ring grooves (Figure 102)

with a broken piece of the piston ring. Use a top ring for
the top ring groove and a second ring for the second ring
groove. Using the wrong type of piston ring may result in
*
damage to the ring groove. Apply only enough force to re-
move the carbon. Never allow the ring to scrape alumi-
num material from the groove. Remove remaining carbon
deposits with a brush and solvent. Keep the piston pin and
connecting rod identified with the piston at all times.
268 CHAPTER EIGHT
Crankshaft and Connecting Rods
Thoro~~glily clean the crankshaft with a solvent. Use

compressed air to remove all material from oil holes in the
crankshaft. Apply a thin coat of engine oil to the crank-
shaft to prevent corrosion after cleaning. Wrap the crank-
shaft with shop towels to prevent dust contamination.
NOTE
Some minor surface corrosion, glaze-like
deposits or minor scratches may be cleaned
up with crocus cloth or 320-grit
carb~wt~ndz/tn. Polish the surfaces only
enough to remove the deposits. Excessive
use can remove a considerable amount of
materialfrom the surfaces.
' A \
Feeler gauge
CYLINDER BLOCK
INSPECTION AND MEASUREMENT
Use a bright light when inspecting the components for

defects. Use a magnifying glass to help detect small
cracks or surface imperfections.
A considerable amount of precision measuring equip-
ment is required for these measurements. If the proper
equipment is not available, have a reputable marine repair
shop or machine shop perform these measurements.
All con~ponentsmust be clean and dry before measur-
ing them. To ensure accurate measurements, make sure
the components are at room temperature.
Cylinder Block
Inspect all surfaces of the cylinder bores for cracks or

deep grooves. Honing the cylinder cannot usually clean
deep grooves in the cylinder bores. Replace the cylinder
block, have the cylinder bored to a larger size or have a
sleeve installed in the cylinder block if necessary. Contact
a Suzuki dealership for oversize piston availability prior
to having the block bored or sleeved. Contact a marine
dealership to locate a source for block boring or sleeving.
Inspect the power head, cylinder head, exhaust cover
repaired with threaded inserts. Pay particular attention to
and crankcase cover mating surfaces for cracks or other
the cylinder head bolt holes. Replace the cylinder block if
damage. Replace the cylinder block if cracked or exten-
corrosion has extensively damaged the threaded holes.
sively damaged.
Damaged and subsequently repaired bolt holes may fail,
White powder-like deposits in the combustion chamber
resulting in water leakage, overheating and extensive
usually indicate that water is entering the combustion
damage to other power head components.
chamber. Inspect the cylinder walls and cylinder head
dome thoroughly for cracks if this type of deposit occurs. NOTE
Inspect all bolt holes for cracks, corrosion or damaged The cylinder block and crankcase are a
threads. Use a metric tap to clean corrosion or sealant matched assembly. Replace the asse~nb/vif
from the threads. Most damaged holes can be successfully either portion requires replacement.
4. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head with hot soapy wa-
ter and dry with compressed air.
5. Have a machine shop perform this operation if a
surface plate is not available.
Cylinder Bores
Measure the cylinder bore with a cylinder bore gauge

(Figure 104) or telescoping gauges (Figure 105). Have a
machine shop or marine dealership perform this measure-
merit if the measuring instruments are not available.
1. Lightly hone the cylinder bore prior to measuring the
bore diameter. Clean the cylinder block as described in
this chapter.
2. Measure the cylinder bores at the depth listed in Table
7. Have the cylinder bored and install an oversize piston
the cylinder bore measurement exceeds maximum bo
diameter.
3. Measure the cylinder bore at a depth midway between
the indicated measuring depth and the cylinder head mat-
ing surface. Measure the bore at a depth midway between
the indicated measuring depth and the bottom ofthe cylin-
der bore. Take measurements at 90' angles at each depth.
Record each measurement.
4. Determine the cylinder taper by subtracting the small-
est diameter measured near the bottom of the bore (3, Fig-
ure 106) from the largest diameter measured near the top
of the bore (1).
5. Compare the measurements taken at each depth loca-
tion. The difference in the measurements taken at each po-
ating Surfaces
sition indicates the out-of-round measurement.
6. Have the cylinder bored and install an oversize piston
Measure the amount of warp at the cylinder head (Fig-
if the cylinder taper or out-of-round measurement exceed
ure 103), intake manifold and exhaust cover mating sur-
faces. Lay the straightedge at multiple locations on the
clean and dry surfaces. Hold the straightedge firmly 7. Oversized pistons are available from a Suzuki dealer-
against the surface and use a feeler gauge to check for a ship or from many aftermarket manufacturers. They are
gap at the midpoint of the straightedge. Replace or true the available in 0.25 mm and 0.50 mm oversizes for most
cylinder block if the distortion exceeds the specification models. Have a reputable machine shop bore the cylinder.
in Table 2. True the cylinder block as follows: Due to manufacturing variances, purchase the oversize
pistons and provide them to the machinist prior to boring
1 Place a sheet of 600-grit abrasive paper on a surface the cylinder. This allows cylinder boring to a diameter that
plate.
provides the proper piston-to-cylinder clearance. Specifi-
2. Use slight downward pressure and move the cylinder cations are in Table 8.
head in a figure eight motion.
8. Replace the cylinder block or have it sleeved if boring
3. Stop periodically and check the amount of warp. Work and installing oversized pistons cannot result in a pis-
slowly and check the work often to avoid removing an ex- ton-to-cylinder clearance within the specification range
cessive amount of material. listed in Table 8.
270 CHAPTER EIGHT
Crankshaft
Inspect the crankshaft bearing surfaces for cracks, cor-

rosion etching or discolored surfaces. Also check for
rough surfaces or transferred bearing material. Replace
the crankshaft if any of these defects occur. Perform the
following measurements while noting that not every mea-
surement described is require on DF9.9 and DF 15 models.
Refer to Table 10 to determine which measurements are
required on each model.
1. Support the crankshaft with the upper and lower bear-
ing surfaces resting on V-blocks or in a machine lathe as
shown in Figure 107. Measure the crankshaft runout as
follows:
a. Mount a dial indicator so its plunger contacts one of
the center main bearing surfaces as shown in Figure
107.
b. Slowly rotate the crankshaft while observing the
dial indicator. Record the total amount of dial indi-
cator needle movement. Repeat at the remaining
center main bearing.
c. Replace the crankshaft if the runout exceeds the
specification listed in Table 10
2. Use an outside micrometer to measure the diameter of
each crankpin (Figure 108). Measure along the width of
the crankpin to determine the taper. Record the measure-
ments for each crankpin.
3. Measure the center of the crankpin at 90' intervals
around the crankpin. Record all four measurements for
each crankpin.
a. Replace the crankshaft if any measurement is less
than the minimum specification in Table 10.
b. Determine the crankpin taper measurement (Step 2)
by subtracting the smallest measurement along the
width from the largest measurement.
c. Determine the crankpin out-of-round measurement
(Step 3) by subtracting the smallest measurement
crankpin from the largest measurement.
d. Replace the crankshaft if the crankpin taper or
out-of-round measurement exceeds the maximum
4. Use a machinist ruler or dial caliper to measure the
width of the crankpin. Replace the crankshaft if the journal
width is less than the minimum specification in Table 10.
5. Use an outside micrometer and measure the diameter
of the main bearing journals in the same manner as the
crankpin journals.
a. Replace the crankshaft if the any of the measure-
ments are less than the minimum specification in
Table 10.
POWER HEAD 271
d. Replace the crankshaft if the bearing journal taper

or out-of-round measurement exceeds the maxi- 8
mum specification in Table 10.
Piston
Inspect the pistons for eroded surfaces at the edge of the

dome, cracks near the ring grooves and cracks or missing
portions in the piston dome (Figure 109). Inspect the pis-
ton for erosion in the ring groove and scoring or scuffing
on the piston skirt (Figure 110). Replace the piston if any
of these defects occur.
1. Measure the diameter of the piston at a point 90' from
the piston pin bore (Figure 111) and at the specified dis-
tance from the bottom of the skirt (Table 8). Record the
measurements for each piston. Replace the piston if the
measurement is above or below the specification in Table
8. The specification does not apply if using oversize pis-
tons.
2. Measure the piston pin bore diameter at both sides of
the piston (Figure 112). Replace the piston if the mea-
surements do not fall within the specification in Table 8.
3. Measure each piston pin diameter (Figure 113). Take
the measuren1ents at several locations along the length of
the piston pin. Record the maximum and minimum diam-
eters. Replace the piston pin if the meas~ircmentsdo not
meet the specification.
4. Determine the piston pin-to-pin bore clearance by
b. Determine the bearing journal taper by subtracting
subtracting the largest piston pin diameter measurement
the smallest measurement along the width from the
from smallest pin bore measurement. Compare the clear-
largest measurement.
ance measurement with the specification in Table 8, Mea-
c. Determine the bearing journal out-of-round by sub- sure the pin and bore if an incorrect clearance exists.
tracting the smallest n~easui-emcntof the bearing Replace the piston and pin if all n~easurementsare correct
journal from the largest measurement. yet an incorrect clearance exists.
272 CHAPTER EIGHT
5. Measure the width of the ring grooves (Figure 114).

Select the feeler gauge thickness that passes in the groove
with a slight drag. Replace the piston if the measured
groove width exceeds the specification in Table 8.
6. Determine the piston-to-cylinder clearance by sub-
tracting the piston diameter from the smallest bore diame-
ter (Figure 115). Have the cylinder bored and install an
oversize piston if the clearance is not within the specifica-
tion in Table 8.
Piston Rings
Perform all measurements using new piston rings. Keep

the rings organized to ensure they are installed in the cor-
rect cylinder.
1. Measure the free end gap (Figure 116) 011 the top two
piston rings. Do not compress or spread the ring gap dur-
ing measurement. Verify the part number of the new ring
if the measurement exceeds the specification in Table 9.
Do not use rings with an incorrect free end gap.
2. Measure the thickness (Figure 117) of the top two
rings. Verify the part number and the mounting position if
the measurements do not meet the specification in Table
9. Do not use rings with an incorrect thickness.
3. Measure the installed ring gap for all rings and cylin-
ders after the cylinder bore and piston diameters are con-
firmed to be correct. Measure the end gap as follows:
a. Carefully compress and install the ring into the top
of the bore.
b. Use a piston without rings (Figure 118) and slowly
push the new ring to the lowest position in the cylin-
der bore.
c. Measure the ring end gap (Figure 119). The in-
stalled end gap equals the thickness of the feeler
gauge that passes through the gap with a slight drag.
POWER HEAD 273
Cylinder
block
Measure the end gap of each piston ring. Mcasurc

the cylinder bore again if the gap exceeds the spcci-
fication in Table 9. Also try a different ring. Verify
that the correct rings are used if an incorrect mca-
sureinent persists. Do not use rings with an incor-
rect installed end gap.
d. Tag or mark the rings as to the cylinder they were
measured in.
4. Measure the piston ring to groove clearance as fol-
lows:
a. Temporarily install the top two rings onto the piston
as described in Cylinder Block Assembly.
b. Measure the gap between the piston ring and ring
groove (Figure 120). The ring-to-groove clearance
equals the thickness of feeler gauge that passes
through the gap with a slight drag.
c. Compare the measured clearance with the specifi-
cation in Table 9. Verify the ring part number and
mounting position if the clearance is incorrcct.
Again measure the piston ring thickness and ring
groove width to determine the need to replace the
piston or ring.
Connecting Rods
Visually inspect the connecting rods for bent, twisted,

or damaged surfaces. Also inspect the rod for discolor-
ation, rough surfaces or transferred bearing material. Re-
place the connecting rod if any defects occur.
1. Use an inside micrometer (Figure 121) to measure the
I , diameter of the piston pin bore in the connecting rod.
Page: 281 Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke - 1997-2000
274 CHAPTER EIGHT
2. Place the rod cap onto the rod and align the reference
marks (Figure 122). Do not install the bearings. Install
and securely tighten the rod bolts or nuts. Measure the
crankpin end bore diameter.
3. Measure the width of the connecting rod at the
crankpin end.
4. Compare the measurements with the specifications in
Table 11. Replace the rod if any of the measurements ex-
ceeds the specification.
Rod and Main Bearings
Inspect the insert type rod and main bearing (Figure

123) for highly polished, discolored or rough surfaces.
Replace the bearings unless found to be in like new condi-
tion. Bearings are inexpensive compared to the damage
caused if the fail.
Unless replacing the crankshaft or cylinder block, pur-
chase main bearings with the same color code mark (Fig-
ure 123) as the original bearing. Refer to bearing
@
selection in this chapter for instructions. CRANKSHAFT MAIN BEARING CODES
NOTE
Normal bearing surface coloration is silver
with veiy fine lines in the surface. Dis-
colored surfaces occur when excessive heat
is applied. Highly polished surfaces or
metal transfer occurs from inadequate lu- Lower bearing code
\
brication, excessive engine speed or exces-
sive bearing wear.
Thrust Bearings
Inspect the thrust bearing surfaces for highly polished,

discolored or damaged contact surfaces (Figure 124). Re- \ Â¥4_L
place the thmst bearing if any defects occur. Measure the Upper bearing code
thickness of the thrust bearing. Replace any thrust bearing
with a measurement less than the minimum specification
in Table 10.
OWER HEAD 275
moval. Water andlor exhaust leakage can occur if using a

(126) CYLINDER BLOCK
warped exhaust cover. Check the flat surfaces using a
straightedge. Replace the exhaust cover if warp is de-
MAIN BEARING CODES tected or if the original gasket indicates leakage.
DF9.9 AND DF15 MODEL
Bearing Selection
Upper main Manufacturing variations result in a need to select main

bearings that match various crankshaft and cylinder block
combinations. Bearing selection is not required for the
crankpin bearings. Use the same color code bearing (Fig-
ure 123) when using the original crankshaft and cylinder
block.
1. Locate the letter codes on the crankshaft (Figure 125)

for the upper and lower main bearings. Record the bearing
codes for each location.
2. Locate the letter codes stamped on the port side of the
cylinder block (Figure 126). The letter indicates the cyl-
@ CRANKSHAFT MAIN
inder block journal bore code for the corresponding jour-
nal.
FARING CODES
3. Match the letter codes to the color codes in Table 12.
DF25-DF70 MODELS
Select main bearings with the indicated color code (Fig-
ure 123) for the individual locations.
All other models
1. Locate the number codes (Figure 127) stamped on the

flyweight nearest the flywheel taper. The numbers indi-
cate the code for the crankshaft main bearing journals.
Number 1 identifies the code for the bearing journal clos-
est the flywheel. 011 models with only four main bearing
journals, four codes are stamped on the crankshaft. Re-
cord the journal number and code for each corresponding
main bearing journal.
2. Locate the letter codes (Figure 128) stamped into the
starboard side of the cylinder block. The letters indicate
the code for the cylinder block journal bore. Number 1
identifies the code for the journal closest the flywheel. On
Exhaust Covers models with four main bearings, four codes are stamped
into the cylinder block. Record the letter code for each
There are no specification available for exhaust cover corresponding main bearing journal bore.
warp, however, examine the cover for warp that may have 3. Match the letter and number codes to the color codes in
resulted from an overheating condition. The cover may Table 12. Select main bearings with the indicated color
also have been distorted by improper installation or re- code (Figure 123) for the individual locations.
276 CHAPTER EIGHT
CYLINDER BLOCK ASSEMBLY

@ CYLINDER BLOCK
Clean the cylinder block thoroughly after the boring or
honing process to remove any contaminants. Do not use MAIN BEARING COD
solvent as a cleaning solution; abrasives usually remain in DF25-DF70 MODEL
the cylinder block when using solvent alone. Use hot,
soapy water (under pressure) to remove all debris from the
cylinder block. Use compressed air to thoroughly dry the
cylinder block. Wipe the cylindcr bores with a clean white Flywheel side
shop towel. The cleaning process is complete if the towel
remains clean and white after wiping the cylinder bores.
Thoroughly coat the cylinder bores with engine oil imme-
diately after cleaning to prevent corrosion. Coat all bear-
ing, pistons and cylinder surfaces with engine oil during
final assembly.
Crankshaft Installation
1. Install the selected main bearings to the cylinder block

and crankcase locations. Align the notch in the bearing (if
used) with the recess in the bore. Ensure the oil groove
hole in the bearing aligns with the oil hole in the cylinder
block. Carefully place the thmst bearings into the recess
provided in the cylinder block as shown in Figure 100.
2. Do not apply oil to the bearing surfaces at this time.
Align the flywheel taper to the top of the cylinder block
and carefully lower the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
3. Place a section of Plastigage (Figure 129) onto each
crankshaft main journal. Position the Plastigage directly
in line with the crankshaft.
4. Without rotating the crankshaft, install the crankcase
cover to the cylinder block. Do not apply crankcase seal-
ant at this time. Install the bolts and tighten them in se-
quence to the specification in Table 1. Refer to Crankcase
Removal in this chapter to determine the tightening se-
quence for the cover bolts. Do not rotate the crankshaft.
5. Remove the crankshaft cover as described in this chap-
ter. Gauge the main bearing clearance by comparing the
flattened Plastigage with the measurements on the
Plastigage envelope (Figure 130).
6. Compare the main bearing clearance with the specifi-
cation in Table 10. Measure the crankshaft journal diaine-
ter if the clearance is incorrect. If the crankshaft
measurement is correct, refer to Bearing Selection.
7. Use a fingernail to scrape the Plastigage from the main
bearing journals. Apply engine oil to the main bearing
surfaces.
Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly
Coat the piston pin and piston pin bore with engine oil
prior to assembly. Select an appropriately sized section of
(133) ND GAP POSITION
DF25-DF70 MODELS
Up or 0 marking
Second ring gap
ring rail gap
D AND DF15 MOD
3. Use needle nose pliers to install the new lockrings into

Top ring gap
\ their groove in each end of the pin bore (Figure 131). Ro-
-Up marking tate each lockring to position the gap down or toward the
crankshaft. Ensure the lockrings are fully seated in their
grooves.
-k,
4. Refer to the instructions supplied with the new rings to
properly locate the ring to the piston. Marks on the rings
face up. Measure the ring thickness if necessary to iden-
Lower oil tify the top and second rings. Ring thickness specifica-
tions are in Table 9.
CA UTION
Use care while spreading the rings for in-
stallation onto the piston. Spread the gap
Second ring gap ends only enough to allow the rings to slide
over the piston. The rings usually break or
crack i f spread too much during installa-
tion.
tubing to use as an installation tool. The tubing must have 5. Use a ring expanding tool to expand the rings enough
a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the piston to clear the piston and carefully slide them into their
pin. Refer to Table 8 for piston pin diameter specifica- groove. Install and oil ring rail (thinner ring) to the top and
tions. bottom side of the spacer (thicker ring).
1. Position the connecting rod within the piston pin bore 6. Position the ring gaps relative to the up side of the pis-
area at the bottom of the piston. Ensure the marks on the ton as follows:
connecting rod face the same direction as the up mark on a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models position the ring gaps
the piston. and indicated in Figure 132.
2. Use the installation tool to push the piston pin into the b. On all other models position the ring gaps as indi-
pin bore of the piston and connecting rod. cated in Figure 133.
278 CHAPTER EIGHT
7. Apply a generous coating of engine oil to the rings and

piston surfaces.
Piston and Connecting Rod Installation
1. Lubricate the cylinder bore and piston with engine oil.

Install new rod bolts or nuts during assembly.
2. Without disturbing the piston ring alignment, install
the piston ring compressor (Figure 134) over the piston.
3. Tighten the piston ring compressor just enough to
compress the rings into the ring grooves. Do not
overtighten the compressor. The piston must be able to
slide through the ring compressor.
4. Carefully rotate the crankshaft until the crankpin jour-
nal for the selected cylinder is at the bottom of its stroke.
5. Noting the UP mark (Figure 135) on the piston. place
the piston skirt into the correct cylinder. Make sure the
piston mark is positioned correctly.
6. Using a wooden dowel or hammer handle, carefully
push the piston into the bore until the piston top is slightly
below the cylinder head mating surface.
7. Provide support for the piston and rotate the cylinder
block to access the connecting rod.
8. Place the bearing (Figure 123) into the connecting rod
so the tab engages the notch in the connecting rod.
9. Guide the connecting rod to the crankshaft while push-
ing the piston into the bore. Place the bearing into the con-
necting rod cap engaging the tab to the notch in the cap.
10. Place an appropriate length section of Plastigage
(Figure 129) onto the crankpin journal. Position the
Plastigage directly in line with the crankshaft.
11. Ensure the cap is correctly positioned and place the
cap onto the connecting rod. Hand-tighten the new rod
bolts or nuts.
12. Check the alignment of the rod cap and connecting
rod by passing a sharpened pencil tip across the mating
surfaces. Replace the connecting rod if uneven surfaces
are detected with the pencil tip.
13. Tighten the rod bolts or nuts in alternating steps to the
specification in Table 1. Do not rotate the crankshaft.
14. Remove the rod cap. Gauge the crankpin oil clear-
ance by comparing the flattened Plastigage with the mea-
surements on the Plastigage envelope (Figure 130).
15. Compare the clearance with the specification in Ta-
ble 11. Again measure the crankpin diameter if an incor-
rect clearance exists. Replace the bearings and repeat the
measurement if the crankpin measurements are correct.
16. Use a fingernail to scrape the Plastigage from the
main bearing journals. Apply engine oil to the bearing
surfaces and install the rod cap as described in Steps
11-13.
POWER HEAD 279
4. Observe the dial indicator while pushing the crank-

shaft toward the top and bottom of the cylinder block.
5. Compare the thrust clearance measurement with the
specification in Table 10. Replace the thrust bearings if 8
the measurement exceeds the specification. Repeat the
measurement. Replace the crankshaft if excess thrust
clearances persist.
Crankshaft Thrust Clearance

(DF9.9 and DF15 Models)
1. Gently push the crankshaft toward the bottom side of

the cylinder block.
2. Measure the clearance between the upper thrust sur-
face of the crankshaft and the cylinder block. The clear-
ance equals the thickness of the feeler gauge that passes
17. Measure the connecting rod side clearance. The side between the surfaces with a slight drag.
clearance equals the thickness of the feeler gauge that 3. Replace the crankshaft if the thmst clearance exceeds
passes between the connecting rod and the crankshaft the specification in Table 10.
(Figure 136) with a slight drag. Compare the clearance 4. Repeat the measurement. Replace the cylinder block if
with the specification in Table 11. Replace the connecting excess clearances persist.
rod if the clearance exceeds the maximum specification.
Repeat the measurement. Replace the crankshaft if excess
clearances persist. Crankcase Cover Installation
18. Install the remaining piston and rods into the cylinder
1. Thoroughly clean the cylinder block and crankcase
blocks as described in the previous steps.
mating surfaces with an aerosol parts cleaner. The cylin-
der block and crankcase surfaces must be absolutcly
Crankshaft Thrust Clearance clean.
(DF25-DF70 Models) 2A. Place the upper seal on the crankshaft with the seal lip
facing the connecting rods (Figure 138).
1. Install the crankcase cover as described in this chapter. 2B. On DF40 and DF50 models refer to Upper Seal
Do not install the seals or apply any sealant at this time. Housing in this chapter for seal installation instructions.
2. Place the cylinder block on a sturdy work surface with 3. Apply the recommended sealant onto the cylinder
the cylinder head mating surface facing down. block-to-crankcase cover mating surfaces (Figure 139).
3. Align the plunger of a dial indicator with the lower end Avoid any gap or overlaps of the applied bead. The bead
of the crankshaft as shown in Figure 137. must pass inside all bolt holes or alignment pins.
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models use Suzuki bond and ignition system components as described in the ap-
1207B (part No. 99104-3 1 140). propriate chapter. Install the cylinder head and flywheel
b. On all other models use Suzuki bond 1104 (part No. as described in this chapter. On DF9.9 and DPI 5 models,
99000-3 1030). install the oil pressure relief valve and hose to the power
4. Make sure that the alignment pins fit into the recess head
while placing the crankcase cover onto the cylinder block.
Align the seals and thrust rings with their respective BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
grooves in the crankcase cover. Press down lightly on the
crankcase cover to seat the crankcase cover on the cylin- During the first few hours of running, many of the com-
der block. ponents of the engine need to avoid continuous full load.
5. Install the crankcase cover attaching bolts and tighten To ensure a reliable and durable repair, perform the
them finger-tight. Do not use any wrench or socket at this break-in any time internal power head components are re-
time. Ensure the cylinder block and crankcase cover are in placed.
contact prior to tightening the bolts. Increased oil consumption is a normal occurrence dur-
6. Slowly rotate the crankshaft and note any tight spots, ing the break-in period. Oil consumption decreases as the
binding or roughness. Remove the cover and inspect the piston rings seat to the cylinder walls.
bearing, seal and thrust ring installation if binding or Check for and correct fuel, water and oil leakage imme-
roughness occurs. The surface must be cleaned and a new diately after starting the engine. Check the tightness of all
coating of Suzuki bond applied if the cover is removed. external fasteners after completing the break-in inslruc-
Ensure that the cylinder block and crankcase cover mating tions.
surfaces are in direct contact. The break-in period spans the first ten hours of opera-
7. Tighten the crankcase bolts in sequence to the specifi- tion. To enhance break-in, vary the engine speed during
cation in Table 1. Refer to Crankcase Removal in this the initial ten hours. Always allow the engine to reach op-
chapter to determine the tightening sequence for the cover erating temperature before advancing the throttle. Never
bolts. exceed the maximum recommended engine speed during
the break-in period.
Upper Seal Housing

During the Initial Two Hours of Operation
1. Select a socket or section of tubing for use as a seal in-
Each time the engine is started, idle the engine for 15
stallation tool. The tool must be large enough in diameter
minutes in gear before advancing the throttle. Do not ex-
to contact near the outer circumference of the seal yet not
ceed one half throttle or 3000 rpm during this period.
contact the seal bore during installation.
2. Place the new seal into the housing bore with the lip
side facing the connecting rod side of the housing. During the Third Hour of Operation
3. Carefully drive the seal into the bore until firmly
Allow the engine to idle for at least five minutes before
seated. Apply a coating or water resistant grease to the
advancing the throttle. Do not exceed three-quarter throt-
seal lips.
tle or 4000 rpm during this period.
4. Carefully slip the seal housing over the tapered end of
the crankshaft and seat it against the cylinder block.
5. Rotate the seal housing to align the holes. Install and During the Next Seven Hours of Operation
securely tighten the five bolts.
Allow the engine to idle for at least five minutes before
advancing the throttle. Operate the engine at any engine
External Component Installation speed. Do not exceed the maximum recommended engine
speed. Refer to Chapter Three for maximum engine speed
Install all removed brackets or linkage and position specifications. Do not operate the engine at full throttle
them as noted prior to removal. Install all fuel, electrical for periods exceeding five minutes.
POWER HEAD 281
Power head mounting bolts

8 mm
10 mm
Flywheel
DF9.9, DF15
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50
DF60, DF70
Cylinder head bolts
DF9.9, DF15
DF25, DF30
8 mm
10 mm
DF40, DF50
DF60, DF70
Oil pump stopper
All models (except DF9.9, DF15)
Oil pump stopper plug
Connecting rod
DF9.9, DF15
All other models
Oil pump
DF9.9, DF15
Oil pressure relief valve
DF9.9, DF15
Crankcase bolts
DF9.9, DF15
6 mm
8 mm
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50
8 mm
10 mm
DF60, DF70
8 mm
10 mm
Exhaust cover
DF25, DF30
DF60, DF70
Thermostat cover
Water pressure valve cover
DF25, DF30, DF60, DF70
Crankshaft pulley nut
DF9.9, DF15
DF60, DF70
Camshaft cap
DF40, DF50
Timing chain guide
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50
Chain tension adjuster bolt
DF25, DF30
Camshaft pulley
DF9.9, DF15
DF60, DF70
Camshaft sprocket
DF25, DF30
DF40, DF50
Rocker arm shaft retainer
DF25, DF30
DF60, DF70
282 CHAPTER EIGHT
TABLE 2 WARP LIMITS

Cylinder head at cylinder block
mating surface
DF9.9, DF15 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
All other models 0.05 mm (0.002 in.)
Cylinder head at exhaust manifold
mating surface
DF40, DF50 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
Cylinder head at intake manifold
mating surfaces
DF60, DF70 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
Cylinder block at cylinder head
mating surface
DF9.9, DF15 0.10 mm (0.004 in.)
DF25,DF30 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.)
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70 0.006 mm (0.0024 in.)
TABLE 3 CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS

Lobe length
DF9.9
Intake 22.100-22.319 mm (0.8701-0.8787 in.)
Exhaust 22.100-22.317 mm (0.8701-0.8786 in.)
DF15
Intake 23.320-23.531 mm (0.9181-0.9264 in.)
Exhaust 23.320-23.531 mm (0.9181-0.9264 in.)
DF25
Intake 35.085-35.345 mm (1.3813-1.3915 in.)
Exhaust 34.406-34.666 mm (1.3546-1.3648 in.)
DF30
Intake 35.976-36.236 mm (1A1 64-1.4266 in.)
Exhaust 35.1 71-35.431 mm (1.3847-1.3947 in.)
DF40
Intake 37.430-37.690 mm (1.4736-1.4839 in.)
Exhaust 37.640-37.900 mm (1A81 9-1.4921 in.)
DF50
Intake 38.130-38.390 mm (1.5012-1.5114 in.)
Exhaust 37.640-37.900 mm (1.4819-1.4921 in.)
DF60
Intake 37.961-38.221 mm (1.4945-1.5048 in.)
Exhaust 37.959-38.219 mm (1.4944-1.5047 in.)
DF70
intake 37.531-37.791 mm (1.4776-1.4878 in.)
Exhaust 37.529-37.789 mm (1.4775-1.4878 in.)
Camshaft bore
DF9.9, DF15
TOP 25.000-25.021 mm (0.9843-0.9851 in.)
Bottom 23.000-23.021 mm (0.9055-0.9063 in.)
DF25, DF30
TOP 43.500-43.534 mm (1.7126-1.7139 in.)
Second 43.700-43.734 mm (1.7205-1.7218 in.)
Third 43.900-43.934 mm (1.7283-1.797 in.)
Bottom 44.1 00-44.134 mm (1.7362-1.7376 in.)
DF40, DF50
DF60, DF70
TOP 45.000-45.016 mm (1.7717-1.7723 in.)
Second 44.800-44.816 mm (1.7638-1.7644 in.)
Third 44.600-44.616 mm (1.7559-1.7565 in.)
Fourth 44.400-44.41 6 mm (1.7480-1.7487 in.)
Bottom 44.200-44.216 mm (1.7402-1.7408 in.)
(continued)
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284 CHAPTER EIGHT
TABLE 5 VALVE SPECIFICATIONS (continued)

DF60, DF70
Intake 36.0 mm (1.417 in.)
Exhaust 30.0 mm ( I .I81 in.)
Maximum lateral deflection
DF9.9, DF15 0.16 mm (0.006 in.)
All other models
Intake 0.14 mm (0.0055 in.)
Exhaust 0.18 mm (0.0070 in.)
Valve guide diameter
DF9.9, DF15, DF25, DF30 DF40, DF50 5.500-5.512 mm (0.2165-0.2170 in.)
DF60, DF70 7.000-7.015 mm (0.2756-0.2762 in.)
Valve stem diameter
DF9.9, DF15
Intake 5.475-5.490 mm (0.2156-0.2161 in.)
Exhaust 5.450-5.465 mm (0.2146-0.2152 in.)
DF25, DF30
Intake 5.465-5.480 mm (0.2152-0.2157 in.)
Exhaust 5.450-5.465 mm (0.2146-0.2152 in.)
DF40, DF50
Intake 5.465-5.480 mm (0.2152-0.2157 in.)
Exhaust 5.440-5.455 mm (0.2142-0.2148 in.)
DF60, DF70
Intake 6.965-6.980 mm (0.2742-0.2748 in.)
Exhaust 6.940-6.955 mm (0.2732-0.2738 in.)
Valve stem-to-guide clearance
DF9.9, DF15, DF25, DF30
Intake 0.010-0.070 mm (0.0004-0.0028 in.)
Exhaust 0.035-0.090 mm (0.0014-0.0035 in.)
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70
Intake 0.020-0.070 mm (0.0008-0.0028 in.)
Exhaust 0.045-0.090 mm (0.0018-0.0.0035 in.)
Minimum stem end length
DF9.9, DF15 2.20 mm (0.086 in.)
DF25, DF30
Intake 7.0 mm (0.2756 in.)
Exhaust 6.0 mm (0.2362 in.)
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70 6.05 mm (0.2382 in.)
Maximum stem runout
Valve seat width
DF9.9, DF15 0.90-1.10 mm (0.035-0.043 in.)
DF25, DF30 1.30-1.50 mm (0.044-0.059 in.)
DF40, DF50
Intake 1.80-2.20 mm (0.071-0.087 in.)
Exhaust 1.65-2.05 mm (0.065-0.081 in.)
DF60, DF70 1.30-1.50 mm (0.052-0.059 in.)
Minimum valve head thickness
DF9.9, DF15 0.50 mm (0.020 in.)
DF25, DF30
Intake 0.50 mm (0.020 in.)
DF40, DF50
Intake 0.70 mm (0.026 in.)
DF60, DF70
Intake 0.60 mm (0.024 in.)
Maximum valve head runout
DF9.9, DF15 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.)
All other models 0.08 mm (0.0031 in.
POWER HEAD 285
TABLE 6 VALVE SPRING SPECIFICATIONS

Minimum valve spring free length
DF9.9, DF15 32.40-32.52 mm (1.2756-1.2803 in.)
DF25, DF30 45.48-47.38 mm (1.7905-1.8654 in.)
DF40, DF50 31.8-33.1 mm (1.252-1.3031 in.)
DF60, DF70 48.1-49.3 mm (1.8941.941 in.)
Valve spring tension
DF9.9, DF15
At 28.5 mm (1.12 in.) 7.6-9.0 kg (16.8-19.8 Ib.)
DF25, DF30
At 37.5 mm (1.476 in.) 17.7-22.3 kg (38.9-49.1 Ib.)
DF40, DF50
At 28.5 mm (1.1 2 in.) 8.9-9.7 kg (19.6-24.9 Ib.)
DF60, DF70
At 41.5 mm (1.648 in.) 22.8-29.2 kg (50.2-64.3 Ib.)
Maximum out-of-square
TABLE 7 CYLINDER BLOCK SPECIFICATIONS

Standard cylinder bore diameter
DF9.9, DF15 58.000-58.01 5 mm (2.2835-2.2841 in.)
DF25, DF30 65.000-65.020 mm (2.5591-2.5598 in.)
DF40, DF50 71.000-71.020 mm (2.7953-2.7961 in.)
DF60, DF70 74.000-74.020 mm (2.91 34-2.91 42 in.)
Cylinder bore measuring point
All models 50.00 mm (1.96 in.)*
Maximum taper and out of round
DF9.9, DF15 0.055 mm (0.0022 in.)
All other models 0.100 mm (0.0039 in.)
Main bearing bore diameter
DF9.9, DF15 35.000-35.016 mm (1.3780-1.3785 in.)
DF25, DF30 44.000-44.01 8 mm (1.7323-1.7330 in.)
DF40, DF50 49.000-49.01 8 mm (1.9291-1.9298 in.)
DF60, DF70 56.000-56.018 mm (2.2047-2.2054 in.)
'Measured from the top of the cylinder bore
TABLE 8 PISTON SPECIFICATIONS

Piston skirt diameter
DF9.9, DF15 57.965-57.980 mm (2.2821-2.2827 in.)
DF25, DF30 64.970-64.990 mm (2.5579-2.5587 in.)
DF40, DF50 70.970-70.990 mm (2.7941-2.7949 in.)
DF60, DF70 73.970-73.990 mm (2.91 22-2.91 30 in.)
Measuring point
DF9.9, DF15, DF60, DF70 15.00 mm (0.591 in.)*
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50 19.00 mm (0.748 in.)*
Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance
DF9.9, DF15 0.0276-0.100 mm (0.001 1-0.0039 in.)
All other models 0.020-0.100 mm (0.0008-0.0039 in.)
Ring groove width
DF9.9, DF15
Top and second groove 1.21-1.23 mm (0.0476-0.0484 in.)
Bottom groove 2.51-2.53 mm (0.0988-0.0996 in.)
DF25, DF30
Top groove 1.02-1.04 mm (0.0402-0.0409 in.)
Second groove 1.21-1.23 mm (0.0476-0.0484 in.)
(continued)
286 CHAPTER EIGHT
TABLE 8 PISTON SPECIFICATIONS (continued)

Ring groove width (continued)
DF40. DF50
Top 'and second groove 1.Of-1.03 mm (0.040-0.041 in.)
DF60, DF70
Top groove 1.22-1.24 mm (0.048-0.049 in.)
Second groove 1.51-1.53 mm (0.059-0.060 in.)
Bottom groove 2.81-2.83 mm (0.1 11-0.1 12 in.)
Piston pin diameter
DF9.9, DF15 13.980-14.00 mm (0.5504-0.551 2 in.)
DF25, DF30 15.980-16.00 mm (0.6291-0.6299 in.)
DF40, DF50 17.980-18.00 mm (0.7079-0.7087 in.)
DF60, DF70 16.995-17.00 mm (0.6691-0.6693 in.)
Piston pin bore diameter
DF9.9, DF15 14.002-14.030 mm (0.5513-0.5524 in.)
DF25, DF30 16.006-16.030 mm (0.6302-0.6311 in.)
DF40, DF50 18.006-18.040 mm (0.7089-0.71 02 in.)
DF60, DF70 17.003-17.01 1 mm (0.6694-0.6697 in.)
Piston pin-to-pin bore clearance
DF9.9, DF15 0.002-0.040 mm (0.00008-0.0016 in.)
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50 0.006-0.040 mm (0.0002-0.0016 in.)
DF60, DF70 0.003-0.040 mm (0.0001-0.0016 in.)
*Measuring point from the bottom of the piston skirt.
TABLE 9 PISTON RING SPECIFICATIONS

Ring thickness
DF9.9, DF15 1.17-1.19 mm (0.0461-0.469 in.)
DF25, DF30
Top ring 0.97-0.99 mm (0.0382-0.0390 in.)
Second ring 1.17-1.19 mm (0.0461-0.469 in.)
DF40, DF50 0.97-0.99 mm (0.0382-0.0390 in.)
DF60, DF70
Top ring 1.17-1.19 mm (0.0461-0.469 in.)
Second ring 1.47-1.49 mm (0.058-0.059 in.)
Free end gap
DF9.9, DF15
Top ring 4.6-5.8 mm (0.181-0.228 in.)
Second ring 5.9-7.4 mm (0.232-0.291 in.)
DF25, DF30
Top ring 7.3-9.1 mm (0.287-0.358 in.)
Second ring 7.2-9.0 mm (0.284-0.354 in.)
DF40, DF50
Top ring 6.0-7.5 mm (0.236-0.295 in.)
Second ring 8.8-1 1.0 mm (0.346-0.437 in.)
DF60, DF70
Top ring 6.1-7.7 mm (0.240-0.303 in.)
Second ring 8.3-10.4 mm (0.326-0.409 in.)
Installed end gap
DF9.9, DF15 0.1 0-0.50 mm (0.004-0.01 9 in.)
DF25, DF30
Top ring 0.12-0.70 mm (0.005-0.028
Second ring 0.35-1.00 mm (0.014-0.039 in.)
DF40, DF50
Top ring 0.10-0.70 mm (0.004-0.028 in.)
Second ring 0.25-1 .OO mm (0.01 0-0.039 in.)
DF60, DF70
Top ring 0.15-0.70 mm (0.006-0.028 in.)
Second ring 0.20-0.70 mm (0.008-0.028 in.)
(continued)
POWER HEAD 287
TABLE 9 PISTON RING SPECIFICATIONS (continued)

Ring-to-groove clearance
DF9.9, DF15 0.02-0.10 mm (0.001-0.004 in.)
DF25, DF30
Top ring 0.03-0.12 mm (0.0012-0.005 in.)
Second ring 0.02-0.10 mm (0.0008-0.004 in.)
DF40, DF50
Top and second ring 0.02-0.10 mm (0.001-0.004 in.)
DF60, DF70
Top ring 0.03-0.12 mm (0.0012-0.005 in.)
Second ring 0.02-0.10 mm (0.0008-0.004 in.)
TABLE 10 CRANKSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS

Crankpin diameter
DF9.9, DF15 28.982-29.000 mm (1.410-1 .I
417 in.)
DF25, DF30 35.982-36.000 mm (1.4166-1 A173 in.)
DF40, DF50 37.982-38.000 mm (1.4954-1 A961 in.)
DF60, DF70 41.982-42.000 mm (1.6528-1.6535 in.)
Crankpin width
DF9.9, DF15 20.1 00-20.150 mm (0.791 -0.793 in.)
Maximum crankpin taper
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70 0.010 mm (0.0004 in.)
Maximum crankpin out-of-round
Maximum crankshaft runout
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50 0.040 mm (0.0016 in.)
DF60, DF70 0.060 mm (0.0023 in.)
Thrust clearance
DF9.9, DF15 0.60 mm (0.024 in.)*
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50 0.1 1-0.35 mm (0.0043-0.0138 in.)
DF60, DF70 0.1 1-0.38 mm (0.004-0.01 5 in.)
Thrust bearing thickness
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70 2.470-2.520 mm (0.0972-0.0992 in.)
Main bearing journal diameter
DF9.9, DF15 31.984-32.000 mm (1.2592-1.2598 in.)
DF25, DF30 39.982-40.000 mm (1.5741-1.5748 in.)
DF40, DF50 44.982-45.000 mm (1.7709-1.7717 in.)
DF60, DF70 51.982-52.000 mm (2.0465-2.0472 in.)
Maximum journal taper
Maximum journal out-of-round
Main bearing oil clearance
DF9.9, DF15 0.020-0.060 mm (0.0008-0.0024 in.)
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50 0.020-0.065 mm (0.0008-0.0026 in.)
DF60, DF70 0.016-0.060 mm (0.0006-0.0024 in.)
*Maximum allowable clearance
TABLE 11 CONNECTING ROD SPECIFICATIONS

Piston pin bore diameter
DF9.9, DF15 14.006-14.040 mm (0.5514-0.5528 in.)
DF25, DF30 16.003-16.01 1 mm (0.6300-0.6304 in.)
DF40, DF50 18.003-18.01 1 mm (0.7088-0.7091 in.)
DF60, DF70 16.968-16.979 mm (0.6680-0.6685 in.)
(continued)
288 CHAPTER EIGHT
TABLE 11 CONNECTING ROD SPECIFICATIONS (continued)

Crankpin diameter
DF9.9, DF15 29.016-29.034 mrn (1.1424-1 .I431 in.)
DF25, DF30 39.000-39.018 mm (1.5354-1.5361 in.)
DF40, DF50 41.000-41.018 mm (1.6141-1.649 in.)
DF60, DF70 45.000-45.018 mm (1.7717-1.7724 in.)
Crankpin width
DF9.9, DF15 19.950-20.000 mm (0.785-0.787 in.)
Crankpin oil clearance
DF9.9, DF15 0.025-0.063 mm (0.0010-0.0025 in.)
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50 0.020-0.065 mm (0.0008-0.0026 in.)
DF60, DF70 0.020-0.080 mm (0.0008-0.0031 in.)
Crankpin side clearance
DF9.9, DF15 0.10-0.60 mm (0.004-0.024 in.)
TABLE 12 MAIN BEARING SELECTION

Crankshaft code Cylinder block code Bearing color
1 A Green
1 B Black
1 C No color
2 A Black
2 6 No color
2 C Yellow
3 A No color
3 B Yellow
3 C Blue
A A Black
B A Brown
A B Green
B B Black
Chapter Nine
This chapter provides complete gearcase removal, dis- used to accomplish the precise alignment required. The
assembly, inspection, assembly and installation instruc- shims are typically located next to the bearing that sup-
tions. ports the gears and shafts. Shim selection operations in-
A number of special tools are required to remove, posi- volve using special tools, gauges and meters to measure
tion and install many of the components within the and determine the required shim thickness. Never com-
gearcase. The use of makeshift tools may result in damage promise this important step. The durability of the gearcase
to the housing or internal components of the gearcase. is substantially reduced if the gears are positioned im-
Suzuki part numbers for these tools are included in the re- properly. Shim selection procedures must be performed if
pair instructions. replacing gears, bearings, shafts or the housing. Refer to
Shim Selection in this chapter for instructions.
Tables 1-3 at the end of this chapter provide torque and
gearcase specifications. Use the standard torque specifi- Failure of the gearcase is usually the result of impact
cation listed in the Quick Reference Data for fasteners not with underwater objects or lack of gearcase maintenance.
listed. Proper maintenance is essential for proper gearcase oper-
The gears (Figure 1) must be precisely aligned to pro- ation and durability. Gearcase maintenance instructions
vide durability and quiet operation. Shims (Figure 2) are are in Chapter Four.
290 CHAPTER NINE
Drive shaft
(clockwise)
FORWARD Drive shaft

(clockwise)
II /
(clockwise)
Have a marine repair shop perform the repairs if the re- REVERSE Drive shaft
quired tools or experience is not available. An improper (clockwise)
repair can result in extensive damage to the gearcase.
Gearcase Operation
The gearcase transfers the rotation of the vertical drive

shaft (Figure 3) to the horizontal propeller shaft. The pin-
ion and both driven gears rotate anytime the engine is run-
ning. A sliding clutch engages the propeller shaft with
either the front or rear mounted gear.
When neutral gear is selected, the propeller shaft is al-
lowed to free wheel, or remain stationary, as the gears ro- or ward gear /
tate. No propeller thrust is delivered. Prop shaft

(idle) (counterclockwise)
When forward gear is selected, the sliding clutch moves
with the shift mechanism to the front mounted gear. The
propeller shaft rotates in the direction of the front
the dogs on the rear-mounted gear. This provides the
counterclockwise propeller shaft rotation necessary for
OPELLER reverse thrust.
ON AND REMOVAL
Propeller
The propeller attaches to the propeller shaft by a castel-

lated hex nut (5, Figure 4). A cotter pin (6, Figure 4)
passes through a hole in the propeller shaft and the
notches in the castellated nut to prevent loosening.
The propeller is driven by a splined connection to the
propeller shaft and the rubber drive hub located within the
propeller. The rubber drive hub provides a cushion effect
to allow for quieter shifting. It also provides some protcc-
tion for the gearcase components in the event of impact.
CAUTION
1. Thrust washer The outboard may be equipped with a
2. Propeller Suziikipropeller or onejrom an aftermarket
3. Splined washer
manufbcturer. Because of this, the attaching
4. Plain washer
5. Castellated nut
hardware may differ from the illustrations.
6. Cotter pin Contact a propeller repair shop or marine
deale1d;ip for parts and information on
other brands ofpropellers.
CAUTION
Use light force, i f necessary, to remove the
propeller jrom the propeller shaft. The use
of excessive force will result in damage to
the propeller, propeller shaft and, possibly,
infernal components o f the gem-case. Have
ci marine repair shop or propeller repair
shop remove the propeller if the propeller
can not be removed by normal means.
Removal
Always install a new cotter pin (6, Figure 4) anytime

the propeller is removed. Make sure the cotter pin is de-
signed for marine use and is the correct size.
Inspect the propeller for the presence of black rubber
material in the drive hub area. Have the hub inspected or
replaced at a propeller repair facility if this material is
noted. It normally indicates that the propeller hub has
turned inside the propeller bore. Satisfactory performance
mounted gear as the clutch dogs (raised bosses) engage is not possible with a spun propeller hub.
with the dogs on the front mounted gear. This provides the
1. Disconnect the negative cable (if so equipped). Re-
clockwise propeller shaft rotation necessary for forward
move the spark plugs and ground the leads.
thrust.
2. Use pliers to straighten and remove the cotter pin (6,
When reverse gear is selected (Figure 3), the sliding Figure 4) from the propeller nut.
clutch moves with the shift mechanism to the rear 3. Position a block of wood between the propeller and the
mounted driven gear. The propeller shaft rotates in the di- housing to prevent propeller rotation (Figure 5) and re-
rection of the rear-mounted gear as the clutch dogs engage move the propeller nut. Note their orientation and remove
the plain and splined washer (4 and 5, Figure 4) from the
propeller shaft.
4. Pull the propeller from the propeller shaft (Figure 6).
If necessary, use a block of wood as a cushion and care-
fully drive the propeller from the shaft.
5. Note the orientation and remove the thrust washer
(Figure 7) from the propeller shaft. If necessary, lightly
tap the washer to free it from the propeller shaft.
6. Clean the propeller shaft. Inspect the propeller shaft
for twisted splines or excessively worn areas. Rotate the
propeller shaft while looking for any shaft deflection. Re-
move and replace the propeller shaft if excessively worn
areas, twisted splines or a bent shaft is noted. Refer to
gearcase disassembly in this chapter for disassembly in-
structions.
Installation
1. Apply a light coat of Suzuki water-resistant grease to

all surfaces of the propeller shaft. Clean and install the
thrust washer. The tapered inner diameter of the thrust
washer (1, Figure 4) and the propeller shaft must contact.
2. Install the propeller onto the propeller shaft. Rotate the
propeller to align the splines and slide the propeller fully
against the thrust washer. Install the splined and then then
plain washer onto the propeller shaft.
3. Place a block of wood between the propeller and hous-
ing (Figure 5) to prevent propeller rotation. Install the
propeller nut onto the propeller shaft with the cotter pin
slots facing out. Tighten the propeller nut to the specifica-
tion in Table 1.
4. Install a new cotter pin and use pliers to bend the ends Clean any debris or contaminants from the drive shaft,
over. If the cotter pin hole and the slots in the propeller nut
shift shafts and gearcase after removal of the gearcase. In-
do not align, tighten the nut just enough to align them. Do spect the grommet that connects the water tube to the wa-
not loosen the nut to achieve alignment.
ter pump for damage or deterioration. Replace as
5. Install the spark plugs and spark plug leads. Connect required. Apply grease to the grommet prior to installa-
the negative battery cable (if so equipped). tion of the gearcase. Ensure that the dowels or locating
pins are properly positioned in the gearcase upon installa-
Gearcase tion.
Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease (part No.
Always remove the propeller prior to removing the
99000-32160) to the splined portion (upper end) of the
gearcase. Refer to Propeller in this chapter for instruc-
drive shaft prior to installing the gearcase.
tions.
Disconnect the negative (-j then positive (+) battery ca-
CA UTION
bles (if so equipped) prior to removing the gearcase. Re-
Never apply grease to the top of the drive
move the spark plugs and connect the leads to an engine shaft orfill the crankshaft with grease. The
ground to prevent accidental starting. grease may promote a hydraulic lock on the
If the gearcase will require repair, drain the gearcase lu- shaft and cause failure of the power head,
bricant prior to removal. Refill the gearcase after installa- gearcase or both. Apply a light coaling of
tion. Refer to Chapter Four for gearcase draining and Suziiki water-resistant grease to the splined
filling instructions. section of the drive shaft during installation
GEARCASE 293
CA UTION
Work carefully when installing the upper
end of the drive shaft into the crankshaft
The lower seal on the crankshaft may be dis-
lodged or damaged by the drive shajt Never
force the drive shaft into the crankshaft Ro-
tate the drive shaft clocl~vzseas viewed from
the top to align the drive shaft and crank-
shaft splines
NOTE
Use caution if using a p ~ bar
y to separate
the gearcase from the drive shaft housing.
Ensure all fasteners are removed before at-
tempting to piy the gearcase from the drive
shaft housing. Use a blunt tip pry bar and
locate a pry point near the front and rear
mating surfaces. Apply moderate heat to the
gearcase and drive shajt housing mating
surfaces ifcorrosion prevents easy removal.
Removal
(DF9.9-DF50 models)
Four bolts retain the gearcase to the drive shaft housing.

Six bolts are used on DF25. DF30, DF40 and DF50 mod-
els.
1. Remove the propeller as described in this chapter.
Place the shift selector into neutral gear.
2. Locate the shift shaft connector on the forward side of
the drive shaft housing. Mark the connector position on
the threaded portion of the upper and lower shift shafts.
This step saves a great deal of time when adjusting the
shift linkage.
3. Using a wrench, hold the lower connector (Figure 8)
and loosen the locknut above the connector.
4. Rotate the lower shift shaft connector (Figure 9) and
disconnect it from the upper shift shaft.
5. Support the gearcase and remove the bolts that attach
the gearcase to the drive shaft housing (Figure 10).
6. Carefully pull or pry the gearcase from the drive shaft
housing.
CA UTION
Never rotate the propeller shaft to align the
drive shaft to the crankshaft. The water
pump impeller can suffer damage that leads
to engine overheating.
294 CHAPTER NINE
Installation
(DF9.9-DF50 models)
1 Apply a thin coat of Suzuki silicone seal (part No.

99000-3 1120) to the mating surfaces of the gearcase and
drive shaft housing.
2. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease (part No.
99000-25 160) to the water tube sealing grommet on the
water pump body.
3. Place the shift selector on the engine in the neutral po-
sition.
4. Apply Suzuki silicone seal (part No. 99000-3 1 120) to
the threaded section of the gearcase mounting bolts.
5. Carefully slide the drive shaft into its opening in the
drive shaft housing. Keep the gearcase and drive shaft
housing mating surfaces parallel and align the mounting
bolt holes in the gearcase with their respective holes in the
drive shaft housing. Also note the following:
a. Ensure the water tube in the drive shaft housing
aligns with the water tube sealing grommet on the
water pump.
b. Align the lower shift shaft and the upper shift shaft
while installing the gearcase. Do not thread the con-
nector onto the shift shafts at this time.
6. The gearcase mates to the drive shaft housing if the
drive shaft and crankshaft splines align. If the housings do
not mate, lower the gearcase slightly. Rotate the drive
shaft clockwise, as viewed from the top, until the drive
shaft splines engage the crankshaft splines. When prop-
erly aligned, the gearcase slips into position.
7. Hold the gearcase in position and thread the mounting
bolts into the gearcase and drive shaft housing. Tighten
the bolts to the specification in Table 1.
8. Thread the connector onto the lower shift shaft until
the reference marks align.
9. Thread the locknut upward until it contacts the connec-
tor. Ensure the chamfered side of the locknut faces the 2. Locate the shift shaft connector on the forward side of
chamfered side of the connector (Figure 11). the drive shaft housing. Use needle nose pliers to remove
10. Refer to Chapter Five to adjust the shift linkage. Re- the cotter pin from the connector (Figure 12). Pull the con-
fer to Chapter Four on filling the gearcase with the re- nector from the upper and lower shift shaft (Figure 13).
quired lubricant. Check for proper cooling system 3. Use a felt tip marker and mark the trim tab position rel-
operation immediately after starting the engine. ative to the gearcase. Remove the bolt (Figure 14) and
trim tab from the gearcase. Locate the gearcase mounting
bolt within the trim tab mounting cavity.
Removal
(DF60 and DF70 models) 4. Support the gearcase and remove the seven bolts that
attach the gearcase to the drive shaft housing (Figure 10).
Seven bolts retain the gearcase to the drive shaft hous- 5. Carefully tug or pry the gearcase loose from the drive
ing. One bolt is located within the trim tab mounting cav- shaft housing. Lower the gearcase enough to cut the plas-
ity. tic locking type clamp, and remove the speedometer hose
1. Remove the propeller as described in this chapter. from its fitting on the gearcase. Lower the gearcase from
Place the shift selector into neutral gear. the drive shaft housing.
housing mating surfaces parallel and align the mounting
bolt holes in the gearcase with their respective holes in the
drive shaft housing. Also note the following:
a. Ensure the water tube in the drive shaft housing
aligns with the water tube sealing grommet on the
water pump.
b. Align the lower shift shaft and the upper shift shaft
while installing the gearcase. Do not install the con-
nector pin at this time.
c. Slide the speedometer hose onto the gearcase fitting
and secure with a plastic locking type clamp.
6. The gearcase mates to the drive shaft housing if the
drive shaft and crankshaft splines align. If the housings do
not mate, lower the gearcase slightly. Rotate the drive
shaft clockwise, as viewed from the top, until the drive
shaft splines engage the crankshaft splines. When prop-
erly aligned, the gearcase slips into position.
7. Hold the gearcase in position and thread the mounting
bolts into the gearcase and drive shaft housing. Tighten
the bolts to the specification in Table 1.
8. Install the connector pin into its openings in the upper
and lower shift shaft. Install a new cotter pin into the hole
in the connector pin. Bend over the ends of the cotter pin.
9. Align the marks and install the trim tab to the gearcase.
Install and securely tighten the trim tab bolt.
10. Refer to Chapter Five to adjust the shift linkage. Re-
fer to Chapter Four on filling the gearcase with the re-
quired lubricant. Check for proper cooling system
operation immediately after starting the engine.
Water Pump Service
This section provides water pump disassembly and as-

sembly instructions. See Water Pump Inspection for fur-
ther procedures.
Replace the impeller, seals, O-rings and gaskets any-
Installation time the water pump is serviced. Never use questionable
(DF60 and DF70 models) parts. Doing so may compromise the reliability of this vi-
tal component. Water pump components are inexpensive
1 Apply a thin coat of Suzuki silicone seal (part No. compared to damage caused from their failure. Refer to
99000-3 1 120) to the mating surfaces of the gearcase and the instructions for the selected model.
drive shaft housing.
2. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease (part No.
99000-25 160) to the water tube sealing grommet on the
water pump body. Refer to Figure 15.
3. Place the shift selector on the engine in the neutral po- 1. Refer to Gearcase in this chapter and remove the
sition. gearcase from the engine.
4. Apply Suzuki silicone seal (part No. 99000-3 1120) to 2. Carefully pry the bushing (1, Figure 15) and sealing
the threaded section of the gearcase mounting bolts. grommet (2) from the water pump body (16).
5. Carefully slide the drive shaft into its opening in the 3. Remove the four bolts from the water pump body (Fig-
drive shaft housing. Keep the gearcase and drive shaft ure 16). Carefully piy the water pump body free from the
296 CHAPTER NINE
WATER PUMP COMPONENTS

1. Bushing
2. Grommet
3. Drive key
4. Grommet
5. Screw
6. Water tube
7. Grommet
8. Gasket
9. Seal
10. Water pump base
11. Drain tube
12. Gasket
13. Wear plate
14. Alignment pin
15. Impeller
16. Water pump body
17. Bolt
water pump base (10, Figure 15). Slip the body over the
drive shaft and remove it from the gearcase (Figure 17).
4A. If the impeller remains in the water pump body (Fig-
ure 18), pry it out with a blunt tip pry bar.
-?B.If the impeller remains on the drive shaft, gently pry it
up with a blunt tip pry bar. Lift the impeller up and over
the drive shaft (Figure 19).
5 . Remove the drive key (Figure 20) from the drive shaft.
Use an aerosol parts cleaner to thoroughly clean the ex-
posed section of the drive shaft. Remove the gasket and
wear plate (1 2 and 13, Figure 15) from the water pump
base.
6. Remove the water pump base if it must be removed for
further gearcase disassembly or seal replacement as fol-
lows:
a. Use two pry bars to carefully pry the water pump b. Remove the screw (5, Figure 15) and lift the watcr
base ( 10, Figure 15) from the gearcase. Remove the tube and grommets from the gearcase.
gasket (8, Figure 15). Remove the alignment pin c. Note the direction of the seal lip (9, Figure 15) rela-
(14, Figure 15) from the base. tive to the water pump base. Use a blunt tip pry bar
to carefully pry the seal from the base. Do not allow
the pry bar tip to contact the seal bore.
d. Clean the water pump base, tube and grommets in
solvent.
7. Inspect the water pump components as described in
9
this section.
8. Assemble and install the water pump base as follows:
a. Position the new seal (9, Figure 15) into the water
pump base (10) with the seal lip facing out. Use an
appropriately sized socket or section of tubing to
carefully push the seal fully into the bore.
b. Lubricate the grommet (4 and 7, Figure 15) SLN-
faces with Suzuki water resistant grease (part No.
99000-25 160) and carefully position them onto the
water tube (6).
c. Attach the water tube and grommets to the water
pump base. Install and securely tighten the screw (5,
Figure 15).
d. Position a new gasket (8, Figure 15) onto the water
pump base. Apply a generous bead of grease to the
seal (9, Figure 15).
e. Slide the water pump base over the drive shaft.
Align the water tube and grommet (6 and 7, Figure
15) while seating the base against the gearcase.
Push the alignment pin (14, Figure 15) into the
opening in the base.
9. Align the gasket and wear plate (12 and 13, Figure 15)
with the alignment pin (14) while seating them on the wa-
ter pump base.
10. Apply grease to the drive key surfacc and install it
into the drive shaft slot (Figure 20). Lubricate the bore of
the impeller with grease and slide it onto the drive shaft.
Align the impeller with the drive key and seat it against
the wear plate.
298 CHAPTER NINE

1. Grommet
2. Water pump body
3. Bolt and washer
4. Impeller
5. Drive key
6. Nut
7. Washer
8. Wear plate
9. Gasket
10. Drive shaft bearing
and seal housing
11. Seals
12. Bearing race
13. O-ring
14. Alignment pin
15. Gearcase mounting
bolt
11. Apply a coat of grease to the inner surfaces of the wa- 1. Refer to Gearcase in this chapter and remove the
ter pump body (16, Figure 15) and slide it onto the drive gearcase from the engine.
shaft until it just contacts the water pump impeller (15). 2. Carefully pry the sealing grommet (1, Figure 21) from
12. Align the water pump body with the base. Lightly the water pump body (2).
push down on the water pump body while rotating the 3. Remove the four nuts and washers from the water
drive shaft clockwise as viewed from the top. Continue pump body (Figure 22). Use two pry bars to carefi~llypry
until the impeller fully enters the water pump body. the water pump body free from the drive shaft bearing and
13. Install the four water pump bolts (17, Figure 15). seal housing. (10, Figure 21). Slip the body over the drive
Tighten the bolts evenly to the specification in Table 1. shaft and remove it from the gearcase (Figure 17).
14. Apply grease to the surfaces and install the bushing 4A. If the impeller remains in the water pump body (Fig-
and grommet (1 and 2, Figure 15) onto the water pump ure 18), pry it out with a blunt tip pry bar.
body. 4B. Ifthe impeller remains on the drive shaft, gently pry it
15. Install the gearcase as described in this chapter. up with a blunt tip pry bar. Lift the impeller up and over
DF25 and DF30 models 5. Remove the drive key (Figure 20) from the drive shaft.
Lift the wear plate and gasket (8 and 9, Figure 21) from
Refer to Figure 21 the seal and bearing housing (10). Thoroughly clean the
GEARCASE 299
exposed section of the drive shaft with an aerosol parts

cleaner.
6. Remove the bearing and seal housing if it must be re-
moved for further gearcase disassembly or seal replace-
ment as follows:
a. Remove the bearing carrier and propeller shaft as
describe in this chapter.
b. Remove the pinion nut as described in Drive Shaft
Removal and Disassembly.
c. Remove the two bolts and washers (3, Figure 21).
Thread two 6 inn1 bolts into the bearing and seal
housing as indicated in Figure 23. Evenly tighten
the bolts to push the housing away from the
gearcase.
d. Slide the housing over the drive shaft and shift shaft
while removing it from the gearcase.
e. Remove the snap ring (Figure 24) and slide the
drive shaft from the housing.
f. Remove the O-ring (13, Figure 21) from the hous-
ing (10).
g. Use a blunt tip pry bar to carefully pry the seals (1 1 ,
8 m m bolts (DF40 and DF50) 1 i !i Figure 2 1) from the housings. Do not allow the pry
bar tip to contact the seal bore.
this section.
8. Assemble and install the bearing and seal housing as
follows:
a. Position the new seal (1 1, Figure 21) into the hous-
ing (10) with the lip facing in. Use an appropriately
sized socket or section of tubing to carefully push
the seal fully into the bore.
b. Position the second seal into the bore with lip facing
in. Carefully push the seal into the bore until it con-
tacts the first seal.
c. Lubricate the drive shaft bearing (12, Figure 21)
with gearcase lubricant. Install the snap ring (Fig-
ure 24) to retain the drive shaft to the housing. 111-
stall a new O-ring (1 3, Figure 21) onto the housing
(10).
d. Guide the housing over the shift shaft while lower-
ing the drive shaft into the gearcase. Rotate the
drive shaft to align the drive shaft splines with the
pinion gear. When the splines align, seat the hous-
ing (10, Figure 21) against the gearcase.
e. Install the two bolts and washers (3, Figure 21).
Tighten the bolts to the specification in Table 1.
f. Install the pinion nut as described in Drive Shaft As-
sembly and Installation.
g. Install the bearing carrier and propeller as described
in this chapter.
9. Install the gasket and wear plate (9 and 8, Figure 21)
onto the housing (10).
300 CHAPTER NINE

1. Seal
2. Grommet
3. Water pump body
4. Impeller
5. Wear plate
6. Bearing and seal
seal housing
7. Stud
8. Drive shaft seals
9. Bearing
10. Alignment pin
11. Gearcase housing
bolt
13. Water inlet
14. Screw
15. Alignment pin
16. O-ring
17. Stud
18. Gasket
19. Drive key
20. Washer
21. Nut
10. Apply grease to the drive key surfaces and install it DF40 and DFSO models
the impeller with grease and slide it onto the drive shaft. Refer to Figure 25.
Align the impeller with the drive key and seat it against 1. Refer to Gearcase in this chapter and remove the
the wear plate.
gearcase from the engine.
1 1. Apply a coat of grease to the inner surfaces of the wa-
2. Carefully pry the sealing grommet (2, Figure 25) and
ter pump body (2, Figure 21) and slide it onto the drive
seal (1) from the water pump body (3).
shaft until it just contacts the water pump impeller (4).
12. Align the water pump body with the base. Lightly 3. Remove the four nuts and washers from the water
push down on the water pump body while rotating the pump body (Figure 22). Use two pry bars to carefully pry
drive shaft clockwise as viewed from the top. Continue the water pump body free from the drive shaft bearing and
until the impeller fully enters the water pump body. seal housing. (6, Figure 25). Slip the body over the drive
13. Install the four nuts and washers (6 and 7, Figure 21). shaft and remove it from the gearcase (Figure 17).
Tighten the nuts evenly to the specification listed in Table 4A. If the impeller remains in the water pump body (Fig-
1. ure la), pry it out with a blunt tip pry bar.
14. Apply grease to the surfaces and install the grommet 4B. If the impeller remains on the drive shaft, gently pry it
(1. Figure 21) onto the water pump body. up with a blunt tip pry bar. Lift the impeller up and over
15. Install the gearcase as described in this chapter. the drive shaft (Figure 19).
GEARCASE 30 1
PUMP COMPONENTS
AND DF70 MODELS
1. Bolt 16. Water inlet

2. Drive key 17. Trim tab bolt
3. Impeller 18. Trim tab
4. Connector 19. Gearcase
5. Plastic locking mounting bolt
clamp 20. Gearcase
6. Speedometer tube 21. Alignment pin
7. Plastic locking 22. Gasket
clamp 23. Seal
8. Connector 24. Bracket
9. Nut 25. Grommet
10. Water inlet 26. Grommet
11. Screw 27. Rear grommet
12. Gearcase 28. Water tube
mounting bolt 29. Wear plate
13. Nut 30. Alignment pin
14. Screw 31. Water pump body
15. Screw 32. Grommet
5. Remove the drive key (Figure 20) from the drive shaft. seat the seal in the bore. Apply water resistant grease to
Lift the wear plate and gasket (5 and 18, Figure 25) from the lip surfaces of the seal.
the seal and bearing housing (6). Thoroughly clean the ex- 11. Apply a coat of grease to the inner surfaces of the wa-
posed section of the drive shaft with an aerosol parts ter pump body (3, Figure 25) and slide it onto the drive
cleaner. shaft until it just contacts the water pump impeller (4).
6. Remove the bearing and seal housing if it must be re- 12. Align the water pump body with the base. Lightly
moved for further gearcase disassembly or seal replace- push down on the water pump body while rotating the
merit. All shafts, gears and bearings must be removed to drive shaft clockwise as viewed from the top. Continue
remove the bearing and seal housing. Refer to Gearcase until the impeller fully enters the water pump body.
Repair in this chapter for procedures. 13. Install the four nuts and washers (20 and 2 1, Figure
7. Inspect the water pump components as described in 25). Tighten the nuts evenly to the specification in Table
this section. 1.
8. Install the gasket and wear plate (1 8 and 5, Figure 25) 14. Apply grease to the surfaces and install the grommet
onto the housing (6). (2, Figure 25) onto the water pump body.
9. Apply grease to the drive key surfaces and install it 15. Install the gearcase as described in this chapter.
Align the impeller with the drive key and seat it against DF60 and DF70 models
the wear plate.
10. Install the new seal (1, Figure 25) into the drive shaft Refer to Figure 26.
bore of the water pump body with the seal lip facing out. 1. Refer to Gearcase in this chapter and remove the
Use an appropriately sized socket or section of tubing to gearcase from the engine.
302 CHAPTER NINE
2. Carefully pry the sealing gromniet (32, Figure 26)

from the water pump body (3 1).
3. Remove the four bolts from the water pump body (Fig-
ure 16). Use two pry bars to carefully pry the water pump
body free from the gearcase (20). Slip the body over the
drive shaft and remove it from the gearcase (Figure 17).
4A If the impeller remains in the water pump body (Fig-
ure IS), pry it out with a blunt tip pry bar.
4B If the impeller remains on the drive shaft, gently pry it
up with a blunt tip pry bar. Lift the impeller up and over
5. Remove the drive key (Figure 20) from the drive shaft.
Thoroughly clean the exposed section of the drive shaft
with an aerosol parts cleaner. Remove the gasket and wear
plate (22 and 29, Figure 26) from the gearcase.
6. Carefully pull the water tube (28, Figure 26) from the
bracket and seal (24 and 23, Figure 26). Lift the tube out
of the rear grommet (27, Figure 26)
this section.
8. Slip the water tube through the grommets and position
it into the bracket and seal (24 and 23, Figure 26). Ensure
the tube fits securely into the rear grommet (27, Figure
26)
9. Align the gasket and wear plate (22 and 29, Figure 26)
with the alignment pin (30) while seating them on the
gearcase.
10. Apply grease to the drive key surfaces and install it
Align the impeller with the drive key and seat it against
the wear plate. or stiff vanes are noted. Replace the impeller if the vanes
1 1 . Apply a coat of grease to the inner surfaces of the wa- are set in a curled position.
ter pump body (3 1, Figure 26) and slide it onto the drive
shaft until it just contacts the water pump impeller (3). 2. Inspect the water pump insert inside the water pump
12. Align the water pump body with the base. Lightly base for burned, worn or damaged surfaces. Replace the
push down on the water pump body while rotating the water pump body if any defects are noted.
drive shaft clockwise as viewed from the top. Continue
until the impeller fully enters the water pump body. 3. Inspect the water pump body for melted plastic or
13. Install the four water pump bolts (1, Figure 26). other indications of overheating. Replace the body and the
Tighten the bolts evenly to the specification listed in Ta- bearing and seal housing (Figure 28) if any defects are
ble 1. noted. Refer to Gearcase Repair in this chapter for water
14. Apply grease to the surfaces and install the grommet pump baselseal carrier replacement instructions.
(32, Figure 26) onto the water pump body.
4. Inspect the water tube, grommets and seals for a
15. Install the gearcase as described in this chapter.
burned appearance, cracked surfaces or brittle material.
Replace the water tube, grommets and seals if any of these
Water Pump Inspection defects are noted.
1 . Inspect the impeller (Figure 27) for brittle, missing or 5. Inspect the wear plate (Figure 29) for a warped sus-
burned vanes. Squeeze the vanes toward the hub and re- face, wear grooves, melted plastic or other damaged ar-
lease them. Thc vanes should spring back to the extended eas. Replace the wear plate if a groove is worn in the plate
position. Replace the impeller if damaged, burned, brittle or any other defects are noted.
GEARCASE 303
ence marks on the shift shaft and coupler (8 and 2, Figure

30). Thread the jam nut and coupler (1 and 2, Figure 30)
from the shift shaft.
2. Use a pin punch to carefully drive the pin (7, Figure
30) from the shift shaft. Slide the collar (6, Figure 30)
3. Slide the boot and bushing (9 and 10, Figure 30) from
the shift shaft. Remove the O-rings (1 1 and 12, Figure 30)
from the bushing.
4. Slide the washer (13, Figure 30) from the shift shaft.
5. Remove the shift cam (1 5, Figure 30) only if it must be
replaced. Refer to Geat-case Component Inspection in this
chapter to determine the need for replacement. Remove
the shift cam as follows:
General Gearcase Procedures (All Models) a. Make reference marks on the shift shaft (8, r+' Ig ure
30) and shift cam (15) to ensure correct orientation
1. Remove the gearcase from the engine and the water during assembly. Transfer the marks to the new shift
pump components from the gearcase as described in this cam.
chapter. b. Use a properly sized pin punch and drive the pin
2. Thoroughly clean the external surfaces of the gearcase (14, Figure 30) from the shift cam and shift shaft.
with pressurized water. Pay particular attention to the c. Pull the shift cam from the shaft. Check the fit ofthe
bearing carrier area where debris is easily trapped in re- pin to the shift shaft and cam. Replace the pin if a
cesses. loose fit occurs. Replace the cam andlor shaft if a
3. Clamp the gearcase skeg (lower fin) in a suitable fix- loose fit occurs with a new pin.
ture. Use padded jaws or wooden blocks to protect the 6. Inspect the boot for torn, cracked or suspect surfaces.
gearcase. Replace the boot if any defects are noted.
4. Perform the necessary removal and disassembly in-
stmctions until the required component is accessible.
5. Identify and record the location and thickness of all Bearing carrier removal and disassembly
shims and spacers. Store them by wiring them together or
Refer to Figure 3 1.
placing them in envelopes.
1. Remove both carrier mounting bolts and washers (Fig-
6. Refer to Shim Selection if installing replacement gears.
ure 32).
bearings. housing, propeller or drive shafts.
2. Thread the adapter (Suzuki part No. 09950-593 10)
7. Replace all seals, O-rings and the pinion nut during as- onto the end of the propeller shaft (Figure 33).
sembly. 3. Thread the slide hammer into the adapter. Use short
8. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease (part No. strokes to pull the carricr slightly away from the gearcase.
99000-25 160) to all seal lips during assembly. Apply a Remove the slide hammer and adapter. Grasp the end of
gear lubricant to the bearings during assembly. propeller shaft and pull the carrier from the gearcase (Fig-
9. Pressure test the gearcase as described in Chapter ure 34). Remove the O-ring (35, Figure 31) from the car-
Three before filling it with lubricant. rier. If necessary, to ease removal heat the gearcase near
10. Refer to the instructions and illustrations that follow the gearcase-to-carrier mating surfaces.
for individual models and follow them carefully. Im-
proper assembly can result in improper shift operation, CA UTION
noisy operation, gearcase wear and eventual failure. I f using heat, make sure to keep the flame
awav from the seals or 0-rings Never heat
the 11oiisvig to the point that the finish is
Gearcase Service burned Continually move the flame around
the mating wrface to apply even heating.
Excessive use of heal can distort or melt the
Shift shaft removal and disassembly gear[ as e.
1. Remove the nut and washer (3 and 4, Figure 30) and 4. Remove the propeller shaft, thrust washer, reverse gear
lift the shift shaft assembly from the gearcase. Make refer- and shim (30-33, Figure 31) from the bearing carrier.
304 CHAPTER NINE
SHIFT SHAFT COMPONENTS

1. Jam nut 9. Boot

2. Coupler 10. Bushing
3. Nut 11. O-ring
4. Washer 12. O-ring
5. Stud 13. Washer
6. Collar 14. Pin
7. Pin 15. Shift cam
8. Shift shaft
GEARCASE 305
GEARCASE COMPONENTS
1. Circlip 25. Cross pin connector

2. Bearing 26. Clutch
3. Drive shaft 27. Cross pin
4. Circlip 28. Spring
5. Spacer 29. Spring
6. Thrust bearing 30. Propeller shaft
7. Spacer 31 Thrust washer
8. Shim 32. Reverse gear
9. Pinion gear 33. Shim
10. Snap ring 34. Reverse gear bearing
11. Lower drive shaft 35. O-ring
bearing 36. Bearing carrier
12. Alignment pin 37. Propeller shaft seals
13. Rubber block 38. Thrust washer
14. Block support 39. Propeller
15. Level vent plug 40. Propeller nut
16. Sealing washer 41. Cotter pin
17. Housing 42. Plain washer
43. Splined washer
44. Bolt and washer
45. Screw
46. Water screen
47. Screw and washer
48. Trim tab (anode)
49. Bolt
306 CHAPTER NINE
.-/-Â¥ Slidehammer
5. Remove the reverse gear bearing (34, Figure 31) only

if it must be replaced. Refer to Gearcase Component In-
spection in this chapter to determine the need for replace-
ment. Remove the bearing as follows:
a. Clamp the bearing carrier into a vice equipped with
protective jaws.
b. Engage the jaws of a slide hammer into the bearing
as indicated in Figure 35.
c. Use short hammer strokes to remove the bearing.
6. Engage the jaws of a slide hammer to the propeller
shaft seals as indicated in Figure 36. Use short hammer
strokes to remove the seals from the carrier.
7 . Clean corrosion and other contaminants from the car-
rier with a soft bristle brush.
8. Inspect the carrier for cracked, pitted or damaged sur-
faces. Replace the carrier if defects are noted.
Drive shaft removal and disassembly
1. Remove the snap ring (10, Figure 31) from the drive
shaft bore.
2. Carefully lift the drive shaft (2, Figure 31) and bearing
(2) from the gearcase.
3. Remove the bearing (2, Figure 31) from the drive shaft I Reverse gear bearing
only if it must be replaced. Refer to Gearcase Component
Inspection in this chapter to determine the need for re-
placenlent. Remove the bearing as follows:
a. Remove the circlip (1, Figure 31) from the drive
shaft.
- /mb
Slide hammer
b. Position a bearing separator onto the open jaws of a

vice as indicated in Figure 37.
c. Open the separator enough to allow the shaft to just
slide through.
d. Slide the drive shaft into the separator with the pin-
ion gear side facing down. Rest the drive shaft bear-
ing against the separator.
GEARCASE 307
Seals 7 Cam follower
Drive shaft bearing e. Use a block ofwood to protect the splined end of the
drive shaft and carefully drive the shaft from the
Bearing separator bearing.
f. Remove the circlip (4, Figure 31) from the drive
shaft.
Propeller shaji disassembly
1. Use a pry bar to unwind the spring from the clutch

(Figure 38).
2. Pull the cam follower from the propeller shaft (Figure
39).
3. Use a pin punch to push the cross pin from the clutch
and propeller shaft (Figure 40).
4. Remove the cross pin connector (25, Figure 31) and
spring (29) from the propeller shaft.
5. Remove the forward thrust washer (23, Figure 31)
from the propeller shaft or forward gear (22).
6. Refer to Gearcase Component Inspection in this chap-
ter and inspect the propeller shaft components for exces-
sive wear or defects.
Gear and bearing removal
I. Remove the pinion gear, shim, bearings and spacers

(5-9, Figure 31) from the gearcase.
2. Pull the forward gear and shim (22 and 2 1, Figure 31)
from the gearcase. puller
3. Remove the forward bearing (20, Figure 31) only if
the bearing must be replaced. Refer to Gearcase Compo-
nent Inspection in this chapter to determine the need for
replacement. Remove the bearing as follows:
a. Engage the jaws of a slide hammer to the bearing as
indicated in Figure 41.
b. Use short hammer strokes to remove the bearing
from the housing.
4. Remove the lower drive shaft bearing (1 1, Figure 31)
placement. Remove the bearing as follows:
a. Measure the distance from the top of the gearcase to Tool -
the lower drive shaft bearing (Figure 42). Record
the measurement for use in gearcase assembly.
b. Select an appropriately sized socket and extension Bearing
or section of tubing for use as a bearing removal
tool. The tool must be of a diameter to contact the
top of the bearing yet not contact the drive shaft
bore.
c. Hold the tool in firm contact with the bearing (Fig-
ure 42) and carefully drive the bearing from the
gearcase.
5. Use a suitable solvent to clean all grease, metal filings
or other contaminants from the gearcase.
ter and inspect all components for defects. Replace defec-
tive or questionable components.
Gear and bearing assembly and installation
I . Position the new lower drive shaft bearing (1 1, Figure

31 into the drive shaft bore with the number stamped side
facing up.
stallation. Slowly drive the bearing into the housing until
2. Using the removal tool, slowly drive the bearing into
fully seated (Figure 43).
the bore. Stop frequently and measure the depth. Continue
until the bearing just reaches the depth recorded prior to 5. Place the shim (21, Figure 31) onto the hub of the gear.
removal. Push the gear and shim into the bore of the bearing until
3. Lubricate the forward bearing (20, Figure 31) with firmly seated.
gearcase lubricant. Position the bearing into the gearcase 6. Place the shims, bearings and spacers onto the hub of
bore with the number side facing out. the pinion gear in the order indicated in Figure 31. Ensure
4. Select an appropriately sized socket and extension or the splined bore of the pinion gear, bearing, spacers and
section of tubing for use as an installation tool. The tool shims align with the drive shaft bore while installing them
must be of a diameter to contact near thc outer circumfer- into the housing. Ensure the pinion gear teeth niesli with
ence of the bearing yet not contact the housing during in- the forward gear teeth.
proper seating. The snap ring retains the shaft into the
gearcase.
Shift shaft assembly and installation
1. Slip the shift cam (1 5 , Figure 30) onto the lower end of
the shift shaft (8). Align the reference mark made prior to
removal. Insert the pin (14, Figure 30) into the hole in the
shift cam. Align the pin with the hole in the shift shaft.
Using a punch, carefully drive the pin into the cam and
shaft until centered.
2. Slide the washer over the top of the shift shaft. Lubri-
cate the surfaces with gearcase lubricant and install the
new O-rings (1 1 and 12, Figure 30) onto the bushing (1 0).
0 Cross pin hole

Slide the bushing over the shift shaft and seat it against the
washer (1 3, Figure 30).
3. Slide the boot (9, Figure 30) over the shift shaft and 111-
stall it to the bushing. Ensure the ridge on the inner diame-
ter of the boot fits into the groove on the bushing.
4. Use a punch to carefully drive the pin (7, Figure 30)
into the remaining hole in the shift shaft. Ensure the pin
protrudes the same amount on each side.
5. Slide the collar (6, Figure 30) over the shift shaft with
/
Propeller slot the stud opening positioned up.
6. Carefully insert the shift shaft into the shift shaft bore
with the tapered side of the shift cam facing the rear of the
gearcase. Push down until the bushing (10, Figure 30)
Drive shaft assembly and installation seats in the shift shaft bore.
7. Rotate the collar to align the stud opening with the
1 Install the circlip (4, Figure 31) into the lower groove gearcase mounted stud. Seat the collar over the stud. In-
of the drive shaft. stall and securely tighten the nut and washer (3 and 4, Fig-
2. Select a section of tubing for use as a drive shaft bear- ure 30).
ing installation tool. The inner diameter of the tubing must 8. Thread the coupler (2, Figure 30) onto the shift shaft
be slightly larger than the drive shaft. Clamp the pinion until it reaches the reference mark made prior to removal.
gear end of the drive shaft into a vice equipped with soft Thread the jam nut (1, Figure 30) onto the shift shaft until
jaws. it just contacts the coupling. Do not tighten the nut at this
3. Slide the drive shaft bearing (2, Figure 31) over the time.
upper end of the drive shaft.
4. Slide the installation tool over the drive shaft and scat Propeller shaft assembly and installation
it against the bearing. Carefully tap on the upper end of the
tool until the bearing (2, Figure 41) seats against the 1. Insert the spring (29, Figure 31) into the opening in the
circlip (4). forward side of the propeller shaft.
5. Install the circlip (1, Figure 31) into the upper groove 2. Place the cross pin connector (25, Figure 31) into the
of the drive shaft. opening and seat it against the spring. Insert the cam fol-
6. Carefully insert the drive shaft into the gearcase. Ro- lower into the opening with the pointed side facing out
tate the drive shaft clockwise to align the drive shaft and (Figure 39).
pinion gear splines. The drive shaft drops down as the 3. Slide the clutch over the propeller shaft with the F
splines align. mark facing the forward gear side of the shaft (Figure 44).
7. Install the snap ring (10, Figure 31) into the groove 4. Align the cross pin opening in the clutch with the slot
within the drive shaft bore. Ensure the snap ring fully in the propeller shaft (Figure 45). Remove and reposition
seats in the groove. Pull up on the drive shaft to verify the clutch as needed.
310 AFTER NINE
5. Push in and rotate the cam follower (24, Figure 31) to

align the hole in the cross pin connector (Figure 45) with
the cross pin hole in the clutch. Push the cross pin (27,
Figure 31) through both holes and release the cam fol-
lower.
6. Ensure the ends of the cross pin are flush with the
clutch surfaces. Carefully wind the spring onto the clutch
(Figure 38). Ensure the spring spans both ends of the
cross pin. Reposition the spring as needed.
7. Apply grease to the surfaces and install the thrust
washer onto the forward gear side of the propeller shaft.
8. Install the propeller shaft assembly along with the
bearing carrier as described in this chapter.
Bearing carrier assembly and installation
1 Select an appropriately sized socket or section of tub-

8. Lubricate the surfaces with grease and slide the thrust
ing for use as a seal installation tool. The tool must be of a
washer (3 1, Figure 31) onto the rear side of the propeller
diameter large enough to contact near the outer circ~mfer-
shaft. Seat the washer against the step near the clutch.
ence of the seal yet not contact the seal bore during instal-
lation. 9. Carefully slide the propeller shaft (splined section
2. Place one of the seals into the bore of the carrier with first) through the opening in the reverse gear. Seat the pro-
the lip side facing out. Slowly drive the seal into the bore peller shaft against the reverse gear. Lubricate the
until it rest just below the bore opening. gearcase opening with gearcase lubricant.
3. Place the remaining seal into the bore with the lip side 10. Position the gearcase with the drive shaft facing up.
facing out. Slowly drive the seal into the bore until it con- Grasp the splined section of the propeller shaft to retain
tacts the inner seal. the shaft into the carrier. Align the forward side of the pro-
4. Carefully drive both seals into the bore until the inner peller shaft with the opening in the forward gear while
seal fully seats in the bore. Apply a bead of Suzuki water sliding the carrier into the housing. Rotate the drive shaft
resistant grease (part No. 99000-25 160) to the lip surfaces clockwise to align the reverse and pinion gear teeth while
of both seals. seating the carrier into the gearcase.
5. Install the reverse gear bearing as follows: 11. Lightly tap on the carrier until it fully seats against the
a. Select an appropriately sized socket or section of gearcase. Rotate the carrier until the bolt holes align.
tubing for use as a bearing installation tool. The tool Thread the bolts and washers (44, Figure 31) into the
must be of a diameter to contact the outer race of the gearcase. Tighten the bolts to the specification in Table 1.
bearing yet not contact the bearing bore during in-
stallation. 12. Refer to Shim Selection in this chapter to determine if
b. Lubricate the bearing and bore with gearcase lubri- the gear alignment is correct. Install the water pump com-
cant. Position the bearing into the bore opening with ponents and gearcase as described in this chapter.
the number side facing out. Place the bearing carrier
(seal side down) on a sturdy work surface.
Gearcase Service
c. Hold the installation tool firmly against the bearing
(DF25 and DF30 Models)
and tap the bearing into the bore (Figure 46). The
bearing must seat against the step within the bore.
Shift shaft removal and disassembly
6. Position the shim (33, Figure 31) onto the hub of the
reverse gear (32). Lubricate the reverse gear with gear lu-
CA UTION
bricant. Slide the reverse gear hub into the bore of the re- Remove the shift shaft only i f necessary to
verse gear bearing until seated against the shim and replace defective components The detent
bearing (33 and 34, Figure 31). ball and spring (14, and 13, Figure 47) will
7. Lubricate the O-ring (35, Figure 31) with water resis- likely become dislodged i f the shaft is re-
tant grease and position it onto the groove of the bearing moved Complete p~ m e ili~i~~i~iembl};\
carrier. required to reposition the ball and spring
GEARCASE 311

1. Shift shaft
2. Pin
3. Boot
4. Retainer
5. Screw
6. Bushing
7. O-ring
8. O-ring
9. Magnet
10. Spacer
11. Shift cam
12. Spacer
13. Spring
14. Detent ball
15. Alignment pin
bolt and washer
312 CHAPTER NINE
1, Remove the water pump components and the drive
shaft bearing and seal housing as described in this chapter
under Water Pump Service.
2. Remove the screw (5, Figure 47) from the port side of
the gearcase. The screw opening aligns with the shift shaft
bore.
3. Lift the shift shaft retainer (4, Figure 47) from the
gearcase. Lift the shift shaft from the gearcase.
4. Remove the shift cam only if it must be replaced. Refer
to Gearcase Component Iiwpection in this chapter to de-
tennine the need for replacement. Remove the cam as fol-
lows:
a. Make reference marks on the shift shaft and shift
cam prior to removing the cam.
1. Drive shaft 26. Thrust washer
2. Spacer 27. Reverse gear b. Use a pin punch to drive the pin (2, Figure 47) from
3. Spring 28. Shim the shift shaft (1) and shift cam (1 1).
4. Spacer 29. O-ring c. Careftdly pull the shift cam, spacer and magnet
5. Tab spacer 30. Reverse gear (9-1 1, Figure 47) from the shift shaft.
6. Collar bearing
7. Spring retainer 31. Bolt and washer d. Transfer the reference mark to the replacement cam.
8. Snap ring 32. Thrust washer 5. Slide the bushing and boot (6 and 3, Figure 47) from
9. Shim 33. Propeller the shift shaft. Remove the O-rings (7 and 8, Figure 47)
10. Pinion gear 34. Splined washer
35. Plain washer
from the bushing.
1 I. Lower drive shaft
bearing 36. Propeller nut 6. Check the fit of the pin to the shift shaft and cam. Re-
12. Pinion nut 37. Cotter pin place the pin if a loose fit occurs. Replace the cam andlor
13. Sealing washer 38. Propeller shaft shaft if a loose fit occurs with a new pin.
14. Levellvent plug seals
15. Levellvent plug 39. Needle bearing 7. Inspect the boot for torn, cracked or suspect surfaces.
16. Sealing washer 40. Bearing carrier Replace the boot if any defects are noted.
17. Housing 41. Propeller shaft
18. Fillldrain plug 42. Spring
19. Sealing washer 43. Spring Bearing carrier removal and disassernb@
20. Forward gear 44. Cross pin
bearing 45. Clutch 1. Remove both carrier mounting bolts and washers (Fig-
21. Water screen 46. Cross pin connector
22. Bolt and washer 47. Thrust washer ure 32).
23. Trim tab 48. Forward gear 2. Thread the adapter (Suzuki part No. 09950-59310)
24. Water screen 49. Shim onto the end of the propeller shaft (Figure 33).
25. Screw 50. Cam follower 3. Thread the slide hammer into the adapter. Use ~110~3
strokes to pull the carrier slightly away from the gearcase.
Remove the slide hammer and adapter. Grasp the end of
propeller shaft and pull the carrier from the gearcase (Fig-
ure 34). Ren~ovcthe O-ring (29, Figure 48) from the car-
rier. If necessary to ease removal of the bearing carrier,
use a torch to apply heat to the gearcase near the gearcase
to carrier mating surfaces.
CA UTIOI?
When using heat, make sure to keep the
flame away,fiom the seals or O-rings. Never
heat the Iiotising to the point that the finish
is burned. Contiizuully inove the flame
uro~iizdthe mating surface to apply even
heating. Excessive use ofheat can distort 01-
melt the gearcase.
314 CHAPTER NINE
4. Pull the propeller shaft (41, Figure 48) from the car-
rier. Place the bearing carrier on a sturdy work surface
with the gear side up. Lift the thrust washer, reverse gear
and shim (26-28, Figure 48) from the bearing carrier.
5, Remove the reverse gear bearing (30, Figure 48) only
if it must be replaced. Refer to Gearcase Coinponent In-
soft jaws.
b, Engage the jaws of a slide hammer into the bearing
strokes to remove the seals from the carrier,
7. Remove the needle bearing (39, Figure 48) only if it
must be replaced. Remove the bearing as follows: ponent Inspection in this chapter to determine the need for
a. Select an appropriately sized socket or section of replacement. Remove the bearing as follows.
tubing for use as a bearing installation tool. The tool a, Position a bearing separator onto the open jaws of a
must be large enough in diameter to contact the vice as indicated in Figure 37.
bearing cage yet not contact the bearing carrier dur- b. Open the separator enough to allow the shaft to just
ing removal. slide through.
b. Place the bearing carrier on a sturdy work surface c. Slide the drive shaft into the separator with the pin-
with the seal bore facing down. ion gear side facing down. Rest the drive shaft bear-
c. Hold the tool in firn~contact with the bearing and ing against the separator.
lightly tap on the tool (Figure 49). Continue until d. Use a block of wood to protect the splined end of the
the bearing is free from the carrier. drive shaft and carehlly drive the shaft from the
8. Clean corrosion and other contaminants from the car- bearing.
rier with a soft bristle brush.
9. Inspect the carrier for cracked, pitted or damaged sur-
faces. Replace the carrier if defects are noted. Propeller shaji disassetnbly
1. Use a screwdriver to unwind the spring from the clutch

Drive sha$ removal and disassembly (Figure 38).
1. Engage the splined adapter (Suzuki part No. 2. Pull the cam follower from the propeller shaft (Figure
0992 1-295 10) onto the upper end of the drive shaft (Fig- 39).
ure SO). Hold the pinion nut (12, Figure 48) with a 3. Use a pin punch to push the cross pin from the clutch
breaker bar and socket. Rotate the adapter counterclock- and propeller shaft (Figure 40).
wise until the pinion nut is free from the drive shaft. 4. Remove the cross pin connector (46, Figure 48) and
2. Remove and disassemble the drive shaft seal and bear- spring (42) from the propeller shaft.
ing housing as described in this chapter under Water 5. Remove the forward thmst washer (47, Figure 48)
Pzmp Service. Inspect the bearing race within the seal and from the propeller shaft or forward gear (48).
bearing housing for defects as described in Gearcase 6. Refer to Gear-case Coinpone~zth p e c t i o n in this chap-
Conzponent Inspection. Remove and replace the bearing ter and inspect the propeller shaft components for exces-
race if defects are noted. sive wear or defects.
3. Slip the spring retainer, collar and spring (7, 6 and 3,
Figure 48) from the drive shaft. Note the orientation, then
lift the tab washer and spacers (5,4 and 2, Figure 48) from Gear and bearing removal
the drive shaft and collar.
4. Remove the bearing (11, Figure 21) from thc dr~ve 1. Rcn~ovethe pinion gear and shim (10 and 9, Figure
shaft only if it must be replaced. Refer to Gearcase Coin- 48) from the gearcase.
Shzj2 shaft asseinbb and installation
1. Position the gearcase with the bearing cassier opening

facing up. Apply grease to the surfaces and install the
spacer, spring and detent ball into the opening at the front
of the housing.
2. Carefully drive the pin ( 2 , Figure 47) into the upper
hole of the shift shaft. Ensure the pin protsudes the same
on each side of the shaft.
3. Lubricate the surfaces with gearcase lubricant and
slide the boot (3, Figure 47) over the lower end of the shift
shaft. Lubricate the surfaces with water resistant grease
and install the new O-rings (7 and 8, Figure 47) onto the
busl~ing(6). Slide the bushing over the shift shaft. Ensure
the ridge on the inner diameter of the boot fits into the
groove on the bushing.
4. Install the magnet, spacer and shift cam (9-1 1, Figure
2. Pull the forward gear and shim (48 and 49, Figure 48)
47) onto the shift shaft. Rotate the shift cam until the refer-
from the gearcase. Remove the tapered roller bearing ence mask made prior to removal align. Drive the pin
from the gearcase or forward gear.
through the shift can1 and shift shaft. The pin must be cen-
3. Remove the forward bearing race (20, Figure 48) only tered in the cam.
if the bearing must be replaced. Refer to Gearcase Coin- 5. Align the detent ball notch on the shift cam with the
poizent Inspection in this cllapter to determine the need for forward side of the gearcase. Carefully slide the shift shaft
replacement. Remove the bearing as follows: assembly into the bore. Push down until the bushing seats
a. Engage the jaws of a slide hammer to the bearing in the bore. Move the shaft up and down to verify corsect
race as indicated in Figure 41. orientation of the detent notch. A distinct detent is felt
b. Use short hammer strokes to remove the race fi-om when the shaft reaches the neutral position. Remove and
the housing. re-install the shift shaft andlor detent ball as needed.
4. Remove the lower h i v e shaft bearing (1 1, Figure 48) 6. Place the shift shaft retainer (4, Figure 47) onto the
only if it must be replaced. Refer to Gewcme Coniponent grooved portion of the bushing (6). Align the screw open-
Inspection in this chapter to determine the need for re- ing in the retainer with the opening on the port side of the
placement. Remove the bearing as follows: gearcase. Install and securely tighten the screw (5, Figure
47) to retain the shift shaft assembly.
a. Measure the distance fiom the top of the gearcase to
the measurement for use in gearcase assembly. Gear and bearing instullution
b, Select an appropriately sized socket and extension
or section of tubing for use as a bearing removal 1. Position the new lower drive shaft bearing (1 1, Figure
tool. The tool must be of a diameter to contact the 48) into the drive shaft bore with the number stamped side
top of the bearing yet not contact the drive shaft facing up.
bore. 2. Using the removal tool, slowly drive the bearing into
c. Hold the tool in fism contact with the bearing (Fig-
until the bearing just reaches the depth recorded prior to
ure 42) and carefi~llydrive the bearing from the
removal.
gearcase. Remove the bearing.
3. Lubricate the folward bearing race (20, Figure 48)
5. Pull the detent ball, spi-ing and spaces (12-14, Figure wit11 gearcase lubricant. Position the race into thc
47) from the gearcase. gearcase bore with the tapered side facing out.
6. Use a suitable solvent to clean all grease, metal filings 4. Select an appropriately sized socket and extension or
or other contamjnants from the gearcase. section of tubing for use as an installation tool. The tool
7. Refer to Gearcaw Compoiient Iiupectio~iin this chap- inust be of a diameter to contact near the outer circumfer-
ter and inspect all components for defects. Replace defec- ence of the race yet not contact the housing during instal-
tive or questionable components. lation. Slowly drive the race into the housing until fully
Page: 323 Suzoki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke - 1997-2000 http://www.ReadManuals.Com
seated (Figure 43). Place the tapered roller bearing into 2. Place the cross pin connector (46, Figure 48) into the
the race. opening and seat it against the spring. Insert the cam fol-
5 . Place the thrust washer (26, Figure 48) onto the hub of lower into the opening with the s~nallerdianietcr side Sac-
the gear. P~lshthe gear and shim into the bore of the bearing out (Figure 39).
ing until firmly seated. 3. Slide the clutch over the propeller shaj3 with the F
~ s t (9, Figure 48) onto the hub of
6. Place the t l ~ r ~washer mark facing the forward gear side of the shaft (Figure 44).
the pinion gear. Ensure the splined bore of the pinion gear, 4. Align the cross pin opening in the cl~1tc11with thc slot
bearing, spacers and shims align with the drive shaft bore in the propeller shaft (Figure 45). Remove and reposition
while installing them into the housing. Enstire the pinion the cl~~tcli
as needed.
gear teeth mesh with the forward gear teeth. 5. Push in and rotate tlie cam follower (50, Figure 48) to
align the hole in the cross pin connector (Figure 45) with
the cross pin hole in the cl~ttch.Push tlie cross pin (44>
Drive slzaji assembly and installation Figure 48) through both holes and release tlic cam fol-
lower.
I. Select a section of tubing for use as a drive shaft bear- 6. Ensure the ends of the cross pin are f l ~ ~ swith
l i the
ing installation tool. The inner diameter of tlie t~ibingmust clutch s~irfaces.Carefully wind the spring onto the c1~1tch
be slightly larger than the drive shaft. Clamp the pinion (Figure 38). Ensure the spring spans both ends of [lie
gear end of the drive shaft into a vice equipped with soft cross pin. Reposition the spring as needed.
jaws. 7. Apply grease to the surfaces and install the t h r ~ s t
2. Slide the drive shaft bearing (I, Figure 48) over the washer (26, Figure 48) onto the forward gear side of the
upper end of the drive shaft with the tapered side facing propeller shaft.
away from the pinion gear end. 8. Install the propeller shaft assenibly along with thc
3. Slide tlie installation tool over the drive shaft and seat bearing carrier as described in this chapter.
it against the bearing. Carehlly tap on the upper end of the
tool until the bearing seats against the step on the shaft,
Bearing carrier asse~nblyand installation
4. Slide the spacer (2, Figure 48) over the pinion end of
the drive shaft and seat it against the bearing. I. Place the needle bearing (39, Figure 48) into the bore
5. Slide the spring (3, Figure 48) and collar (6) over the opening with the number side facing out. Use the bearing
pinion end of the drive shaft. removal tool to carefi~llydrive the bearing into tl~ccarrier.
6. Install the spacer then tab washer (4 and 5, Figure 48) Seat the bearing against the step at the bottom oSthe bore.
over the drive shaft. Align the protrusion on the tab 2. Select an appropriately sized socket or section of tub-
washer with the slot at the bottom of the collar. Place the ing for use as a seal installation tool. The tool niust be of a
spring retainer (7, Figure 48) onto the bottom end of the diameter large enough to contact near the outer circumfer-
collar. ence of the seal yet not contact the seal bore d~lringinstal-
7. Install the drive shaft bearing into the bearing and seal lation.
h o ~ ~ s i n gInstall
. the bearing and seal liousing to the 3. Place one of the seals into the bore in the propeller side
gearcase as described in this chapter under Water Pzmp of the carrier with the lip side facing out. Slowly drive the
Service. seal into the bore until tlie seal surface is just below the
8. Apply Suzuki thread lock (part N0.99000-32050) to bore opening.
the threads of the drive shaft and pinion nut (12, Figure 4. Place the remaining seal into the bore with the lip side
48). Thread tlie pinion nut onto the drive shaft. facing out. Slowly drive the seal into the bore ~mtilit con-
9. Engage the splined adapter (Suz~iki part No. tacts the inner seal.
09921 -295 10) onto the upper end of the drive shaft (Fig- 5. Carefully drive both seals into the bore until the inner
ure 50). Hold the pinion nut (12, Figure 48) with a seal f~illyseats in the bore. Apply a bead of S L I Z Lwater
I~~
breaker bar and socket. Tighten the pinion nut to the speci- resistant grease (part No. 99000-25 160) to the lips ofboth
fication in Table 1. seals.
6. Install the reverse gear bearing as follotvs:
a. Select an appropriately sized socket or section of
Propeller shaft assentbly and itzstallatiofz tubing for use as a bearing installation tool. Tlic tool
must be of a diameter to contact the outer race of the
1. Insert the spring (42, Figure 48) into the opening in the bearing yet not contact the bearing bore during in-
f o ~ ~ v a side
r d of the propeller shaft. stallation.
GEARCASE 317
b. L~~bricate the bearing with gearcase lubricant. Posi- to the gearcase near the gearcase to cassier inating siir-
tion the bearing Into the bore opening with the nuin- faces.
ber stamped side facing OLI~. Place the seal side of
the bearmg carrier down on a sturdy work surface. CA UTION
c. Hold the installation tool firmly against the bearing FViien using lleat, mzke suw to /cwp tile
flun~eu w ~ ~ j ~lhe ~ oseals
n ? or O-rings. N e ~ ~ e r
heat the I I O U S ~ I Zto~ the point that the fii~ish
bearing must seat against the step within the bore. is bui-ned. Cotiti~~uallv wove the f l u m
7. Position the shini (28, Figure 48) onto the hub of the aromd the m a t i ~ ~surface g to uppl~,even
reverse gear (27). Lubricate the reverse gear with heating. Excess~veuse oflleat can distort or
gearcase lubricant. Slide the reverse gear hub into the bore melt the gearcase.
of thc reverse gear bearing until seated against the shim
and bearmg (28 and 30, Figure 48). 4. Pull the propeller shaft (25, Figure 51) from the car-
8. Lubricate the O-ring (29, Figure 48) with water resis- rier. Lift the thrust washer, reverse gear and sliin~(32-34,
tant grease and posit~onit onto the groove of tlie bearing Figure 51) fro111the bearing cassier.
camer. Lubricate the surfaces with grease and slide the 5. Reinove the reverse gear bearing (30, Figure 51) only
t h r ~ ~washer
st (26, Figure 48) onto the rear side of the pro- if it must be replaced. Refer to Gearcase Con1p017ent111-
peller shaft. Seat the washer against the step near tlie spection in this chapter to determine the need for replace-
clutch. ment. Remove the bearing as follows:
9. Carefully slide the propeller shaft (splined section a. Clamp the bearing cassier into a vice eq~~ipped with
first) through the opening in tlie reverse gear. Seat the pro- soft Jaws.
peller shaft against the reverse gear. Lubricate the b. Engage the jaws of a slide hammer into the bearing
gearcase opening with gearcase lubricant. as indicated in Figure 35.
10. Position the gearcase with the drive shaft facing up. c. Use short hammer strokes to reinove the bearing.
Grasp the splined section of the propeller shaft to retain 6. Engage the Jaws of a slide hammer to the propeller
the shaft into the cassier. Align the fosward side of the pro- shaft seals as indicated in Figure 36. Use short hanln~er
peller shaft with the opening in the forward gear while strokes to remove the seals from the carrier.
sliding the carries into the housing. Rotate the drive shaft 7. Reinove the needle bearings (28, Figure 51) only if
clockwise to align the reverse and pinion gear teeth while they must be replaced. Remove the bearing as follows:
seating the cassier into the gearcase. a. Select an appropriately sized socket or section of
11. Lightly tap oil the carrier until it h l l y seats against the tubing for use as a bearing installation tool. The tool
gearcase. Rotate the cassier until the bolt holes align. must be large enough in diameter to contact the
Thread the bolts and washers (31, Figure 48) into the bearing cage yet not contact the bearing carsier dur-
gearcase. T~ghtenthe bolts to the specification in Table 1. ing removal.
12. Refer to Shi111Selection in this chapter if the gear b. Place the bearing cassier on a sturdy work surface
alignment is corsect. Install the water pump components with the seal bore facing down.
and gearcase as described in this chapter. c. Hold the tool in firm contact with the inner bcasing
and lightly tap on the tool (Figure 49). Continue un-
til the outer bearing is free from the carrier. Repeat
Gearcase Service the process to remove the inner bearing.
DF40 and DF50 Models 8. Use a suitable solvent and soft bristle bnish to clean
corsosion and other contaninants fsom the carrier.
ewing carrier removal and disussetnb&
9. Inspect the cassier for cracked, pitted or damaged sur-
1. Remove both cassier mounting bolts and washers (Fig- faces. Replace the tarsier if defects are noted.
ure 32).
2. Thread the adapter (Suz~ikipart No. 09930-301 61) onto Propeller slzajt disassenzbly
the end of the propeller shaft (Figure 33).
3. Thsead the slide hammer into the adapter. Use short 1 . Use a screwdriver to unwind the spring from the c1~1tch
strokes to pull the cassier slightly away from the gearcase. (Figure 38).
Reinove the slide ha~ninerand adapter. Grasp the end of 2. Pull the cam follower from the propeller shaft (Figure
propcller shaft and pull the carsier from the gearcase (Fig- 39).
ure 34). Remove the O-ring (3 1 , Figure 51) from the car- 3. Use a pin piincli to push the cross pin from tlie c l ~ ~ t c h
rier. If necessary to ease removal, use a torch to apply heat and propeller shaft (Figure 40).
318 CHAPTER NINE
GEARCASE 319
GEARCASE COMPONENTS
1. Shim 25. Propeller shaft 4. Remove the cross pin connector (20, Figure 51) and
2. Washer 26. Bolt
3. Thrust bearing 27. Propeller shaft spring (24) from the propeller shaft.
4. Splined section seals 5. Remove the forward thrust washer (18, Figure 51)
5. Drive shaft 28. Needle bearings from the propeller shaft or forward gear (17).
6. Pin 29. Bearing carrier 6. Refer to Gearcase Component Inspection in this chap-
7. Lower drive she 30. Reverse gear
bearing bearing
8. Sealing washer 31. O-ring sive wear or defects.
9. LeveUvent plug 32. Shim
10. Levellvent plug 33. Reverse gear
11. Sealing washer 34. Thrust washer Drive shaft removal and disassembly
12. ear case housing 35. Thrust washer
13. Sealing washer 36. Propeller 1 . Engage the splined adapter (Suzuki part No.
14. Drainlfill plug 37. Propeller hub 0992 1-295 10) onto the upper end of the drive shaft (Fig-
15. Forward gear 38. Splined washer ure 50). Hold the pinion nut (47, Figure 51) with a
bearing 39. Plain washer
16. Shim 40. Cotter pin breaker bar and socket. Rotate the adapter counterclock-
17. Forward gear 41. Propeller nut wise until the pinion nut is free from the drive shaft.
18. Thrust washer 42. Preload spring 2. Thread two 8 mm bolts into the bearing and seal hous-
19. Cam follower 43. Washer ing as indicated in Figure 23. Evenly tighten the bolts to
20. Cross pin 44. Tab washer
push the housing away from the gearcase.
connector 45. Collar
21. Clutch 46. Pinion gear 3. Carefully pull the bearing and seal housing along with
22. Cross pin 47. Pinion nut the drive shaft and shift shaft from the gearcase (Figure
23. Clutch spring 48. O-ring 52). Remove the O-ring (48, Figure 51) from the bearing
24. Spring and seal housing or the gearcase.
4. Slide the drive shaft (5, Figure 51) from the bearing
and seal housing.
5. Remove the shims, washer and thrust bearing (1-3,
Figure 51) from the drive shaft (5).
6. Use a pin punch to drive the pin (6, Figure 51) from
the drive shaft (5). Remove the preload spring (42, Figure
51) from the drive shaft.
7. Lift the spring collar from the drive shaft bore (Figure
53). Remove the washer and tab washer from the drive
shaft bore (Figure 54).
Shift shaft removal and disassembly
1. Remove the coupler and nut (1 and 2, Figure 55) from

the shift shaft (8).
320 CHAPTER NINE
2. Slide the shift shaft assembly out of the bearing and

seal housing.
3. Remove the snap ring (7, Figure 55) and carefully
push the bushing (4, Figure 55) from the bearing and seal
housing. Pull the boot (3, Figure 55) from the bushing.
Remove the O-rings (5 and 6, Figure 55) from the bush-
ing.
4. Remove the shift cam only if it must be replaced. Refer
to Gearcase Component Inspection in this chapter to de-
termine the need for replacements. Remove the cam as
follows:
a. Make a reference mark on the shift shaft, guide and
shift cam prior to removing the cam.
b. Use a pin punch to drive the pin (12, Figure 55)
from the shift shaft (8) and shift cam (13). Pull the
shift cam from the shift shaft.
c. Drive the pin (1 1, Figure 55) from the shift shaft (8)
and guide (1 7). Pull the guide from the shift shaft.
d. Transfer the reference mark to the replacement cam.
5. Remove the magnet (10, Figure 55) from the shift
shaft. Use a pin punch to drive the pin (9, Figure 55) from
the shift shaft (8).
6. Check the fit of the pin to the shift shaft and cam. Re-
place the pin if a loose fit occurs. Replace the cam and/or
shaft if a loose fit occurs with a new pin.
7. Inspect the boot for torn, cracked or suspect surfaces.
Replace the boot if any defects are noted.
Bearing and seal housing disassembly
1 . Clamp the bearing and seal housing into a vice

equipped with soft jaws.
2. Engage the bearing removal tool (Suzuki part No. 3. Remove the forward bearing race (1 5, Figure 51) only
09923-745 10) to the inside edge of the needle bearing if the bearing must be replaced. Refer to Gearcase Com-
(Figure 56). ponent Inspection in this chapter to determine the need for
3. Thread a slide hammer onto the bearing removal tool. replacement. Remove the bearing race as follows:
Use short hammer strokes to remove the bearing from the a. Engage the jaws of a slide hammer to the race as in-
housing. dicated in Figure 41.
4. Working from the upper side of the housing, carefully b. Use short hammer strokes to remove the race from
drive both seals (8, Figure 25) from the housing. the housing.
5. Use a suitable solvent to clean contaminants from the 4. Remove the lower drive shaft bearing (7. Figure 51)
housing. only if it must be replaced. Refer to Gearcase Component
Gear and bearing removal placement. Remove the bearing as follows:
a. Measure the distance from the top of the gearcase to
1. Remove the pinion gear (46, Figure 51) from the the lower drive shaft bearing (Figure 42). Record
gearcase. the measurement for use in gearcase assembly.
2. Pull the forward gear and shim (1 7 and 16, Figure 51) b. Select an appropriately sized socket and extension
from the gearcase. Remove the tapered roller bearing or section of tubing for use as a bearing removal
from the gearcase or forward gear. tool. The tool must be of a diameter to contact the
GEARCASE 321

top of the bearing yet not contact the drive shaft

bore.
c. Hold the tool in firm contact with the bearing (Fig-
ure 42) and carefully drive the bearing from the
gearcase. Remove the bearing.
5. Remove the detent ball, spring and spacer (14-1 6, Fig-
ure 55) from the gearcasc.
9
6. Use a suitable solvent to clean all grease, metal filings
or other contaminants from the gearcase.
tive or questionable components.
Gear and bearing installation
1. Position the new lower drive shaft bearing (7, Figure

51) into the drive shaft bore with the number stamped side
facing up.
2. Using the renloval tool, slowly drive the bearing into
until the bearing just reaches the depth recorded prior to
removal.
3. Lubricate the forward bearing race (15, Figure 51)
with gearcase lubricant. Position the race into the
1. Coupler 10. Magnet gearcase with the number tapered side facing out.
2. Nut 11. Pin
4. Select an appropriately sized socket and extension or
3. Boot 12. Pin
4. Bushing 13. Shift cam
section of tubing for use as a bearing installation tool. The
5. O-ring 14. Spacer tool must be of a diameter to contact near the outer cir-
6. O-rings 15. Spring cumference of the race yet not contact the housing during
7. Snap ring 16. Detent ball installation. Slowly drive the race into the housing until
8. Shift shaft 17. Guide
fully seated (Figure 43). Place the tapered roller bearing
9. Pin
into the race.
5. Place the spacer (14, Figure 55) and spring ( 1 5) into
the opening at the front of the gearcase. The opening is di-
rectly in line with the shift shaft bore. Apply water resis-
tant grease to the surface and place the detent ball (16)
into the bore.
322 CHAPTER NINE
6. Placc the shim (1 6, Figure 51) onto the hub of the gear pin (1 1, Figure 55) through the guide and shift shaft. The
(17). Push the gear and shim into the bore of the bearing pin must be centered in the guide.
until firmly seated. 4. Install the shift cam (13, Figure 55) onto the shift
7. Align the splined bore of the pinion gear (46, Figure shaft. Rotate the cam until the reference marks made prior
51) with the drive shaft bore while installing it into the to removal align with the mark on the guide. Drive the pin
gearcase. Ensure the pinion gear teeth mesh with the for- (12, Figure 55) through the cam and shift shaft. The pin
ward gear teeth. must be centered in the cam.
5. Drive the pin (9, Figure 55) into the hole in the shift
shaft until it protrudes the same amount on each side.
Bearing and seal housing assembly 6. Snap the magnet onto the shift shaft. Position the mag-
net directly below the bend in the shaft.
1. Select an appropriately sized socket or section of tub-
7. Carefully slide the shift shaft assembly into the bottom
ing for use as a seal installation tool. The tool must be of a
side of the bushing. Rotate the shift shaft to position the
diameter to contact near the outer circumference of the
detent ball recess in the cam facing the forward side of the
seal yet not contact the housing during installation.
bearing and seal housing.
2. Place the bearing and seal housing on a sturdy work
surface with the bottom side facing up.
3. Position the new inner seal into the bore opening with Drive shaft assembly and installation
the lip side facing down. Position the seal installation tool
firmly against the seal. Gently drive the seal into the bore 1. Place the tab washer (44, Figure 51) into the drive
until its surface is just below the bore opening. shaft bore. Align the tab with the recess in the bore. Place
4. Position the outer seal into the bore opening with the the washer (43, Figure 51) directly on top of the tab
lip side facing down. Position the seal installation tool washer.
firmly against the seal. Drive both seals into the bore until 2. Carefully slide the collar (45, Figure 51) into the drive
the inner seal contacts the bore seat. shaft bore. Rotate the collar to align the protrusion on the
5 . Select an appropriately sized socket or section of tubing collar with the recess in the housing. Seat the collar into
for use as a bearing installation tool. The tool must be of a the bore.
diameter to contact near the outer circumference of the nee- 3. Slide the preload spring (42, Figure 51) onto the pin-
dle bearing (Figure 56) yet not contact the bearing bore. ion end of the drive shaft (5). Drive the pin (6, Figure 51)
into its opening in the drive shaft to secure the spring.
6. Position the needle bearing into the bore opening with
4. Lubricate the surfaces with gearcase lubricant and in-
the number side facing out. Place the installation tool
stall the thmst bearing (3, Figure 51), washer (2) and
firmly against the bearing. Gently drive the bearing into
shims (1) onto the upper end of the drive shaft (5).
the bore until firmly seated.
5. Carefully slide the drive shaft into the bearing and seal
7. Apply a bead of silicone seal (Suzuki part No.
housing.
99000-3 1120) to the groove for the O-ring (48, Figure
6. Align the drive shaft and shift shaft with their respec-
51). Place the O-ring into the groove.
tive openings while lowering the bearing and seal housing
8. Apply a bead ofwater resistant grease (Suzuki part No.
onto the gearcase. Rotate the drive shaft clockwise to
99000-25 160) to the lips of both seals. Lubricate the nee-
align the drive shaft splines with the pinion gear splines.
dle bearing with gearcase lubricant. The drive shaft drops into the pinion gear as the splines
align.
Shift shaft assembly and installation 7. Press down to seat the bearing and seal housing against
the gearcase. Move the shift up and down to verify correct
1 Lubricate the surfaces with water resistant grease and orientation of the detent notch. A distinct detent is felt
install the O-rings (5 and 6, Figure 55) onto the bushing when the shaft reaches the neutral position. Remove and
(4). Lubricate the surfaces with gearcase lubricant and re-install the shift shaft andlor detent ball as needed.
slide the boot (3, Figure 55) onto the bushing. 8. Apply Suzuki thread lock (part No.99000-32050) to
2. Slide the bushing into its opening in the top side of the the threads of the drive shaft and pinion nut (47, Figure
bearing and seal housing. Install the snap ring (7, Figure 51). Thread the pinion nut onto the drive shaft.
55) into the groove to secure the bushing. 9. Engage the splined adapter (Suzuki part No.
3. Install the guide (17, Figure 55) onto the shift shaft. 09921 -295 10) onto the upper end of the drive shaft (Fig-
Rotate the guide until the reference marks made prior to ure 50). Hold the pinion nut with a breaker bar and socket.
removal align with the mark on the shift shaft. Drive the Tighten the pinion nut to the specification in Table 1.
Propeller shaft assembly and installation a. Select an appropriately sized socket or section of
tubing for use as a bearing installation tool. The tool
I . Insert the spring (24, Figure 51) into the opening in the must be of a diameter to contact the outer race ofthc
forward side of the propeller shaft. bearing yet not contact the bearing bore during in-
2. Place the cross pin connector (20, Figure 51) into the stallation.
opening and seat it against the spring. Insert the cam fol- b. Lubricate the bearing with gearcase lubricant. Posi-
lower into the opening with the smaller diameter side fac- tion the bearing into the bore opening with the num-
ing out (Figure 39). bered side facing out. Place the bearing carrier seal
3. Slide the clutch over the propeller shaft with the F side down on a sturdy work surface.
mark facing the forward gear side of the shaft (Figure 44). c. Hold the installation tool firmly against the bearing
4. Align the cross pin opening in the clutch with the slot and tap the bearing into the bore (Figure 46). The
in the propeller shaft (Figure 45). Remove and reposition bearing must seat against the step within the bore.
the clutch as needed. 7. Position the shim (32, Figure 51) onto the hub of the
5. Push in and rotate the cam follower (19, Figure 51) to reverse gear (33). Lubricate the reverse gear with
align the hole in the cross pin connector (Figure 45) with gearcase lubricant. Slide the reverse gear hub into the bore
the cross pin hole in the clutch. Push the cross pin (22, of the reverse gear bearing until seated against the shim
Figure 51) through both holes and release the cam fol- and bearing (32 and 30, Figure 51).
lower. 8. Lubricate the O-ring (3 1, Figure 51) with water resis-
6. Ensure the ends of the cross pin are flush with the tant grease and position it onto the groove of the bearing
clutch surfaces. Carefully wind the spring onto the clutch carrier. Lubricate the surfaces with grease and slide the
(Figure 38). Ensure the spring spans both ends of the thrust washer (34, Figure 51) onto the rear side of the pro-
cross pin. Reposition the spring as needed. peller shaft. Seat the washer against the step near the
7. Apply grease to the surfaces and install the thrust clutch.
washer (8, Figure 51) onto the forward gear side of the 9. Carefully slide the propeller shaft (splined section
propeller shaft. first) through the opening in the reverse gear. Seat the pro-
8. Install the propeller shaft assembly along with the peller shaft against the reverse gear. Lubricate the
bearing carrier as described in this chapter. gearcase opening with gearcase lubricant.
10. Position the gearcase with the drive shaft facing up.
Bearing carrier assembly and installation Grasp the splined section of the propeller shaft to retain
the shaft into the carrier. Align the forward side of the pro-
1. Place the inner needle bearing (28, Figure 51) into the peller shaft with the opening in the forward gear while
bore opening with the number side facing out. Use the sliding the carrier into the housing. Rotate the drive shaft
bearing removal tool to carefully drive the bearing into the clockwise to align the reverse and pinion gear teeth while
carrier. Seat the bearing against the step at the bottom of seating the carrier into the gearcase.
the bore. Install the outer bearing into the bore with the 11. Lightly tap on the carrier until it fully seats against the
number side out until it seats against inner bearing. gearcase. Rotate the carrier until the bolt holes align.
2. Select an appropriately sized socket or section of tub- Thread the bolts and washers (26, Figure 51) into the
ing for use as a seal installation tool. The tool must be of a gearcase. Tighten the bolts to the specification listed in
diameter large enough to contact near the outer circumfer- Table 1.
ence of the seal yet not contact the seal bore during instal- 12. Refer to Shim Selection in this chapter to determine if
lation. the gear alignment is correct. Install the water pump com-
3. Place one of the seals into the bore in the propeller side ponents and gearcase as described in this chapter.
of the carrier with the lip side facing out. Slowly drive the
seal into the bore until it restjust below the bore opening. Gearcase Service
4. Place the remaining seal into the bore with the lip side
(DF60 and DF70 Models)
facing out. Slowly drive the seal into the bore until it con-
tacts the inner seal. Bearing carrier removal and disassembly
5. Carefully drive both seals into the bore until the inner
seal fully seats in the bore. Apply a bead of Suzuki watcr Rcfcr to Figure 57.
resistant grease (part No. 99000-25 160) to the lip surfaces 1. Bend the tab(s) away from the cover nut (Figure 58).
of both seals. 2. Slide the cover nut tool (Suzuki part No. 0995 1 - 18720)
6. Install the reverse gear bearing as follows: over the propeller shaft. Engage the tool to the cover nut
324 CHAPTER NINE
GEARCASE 325
ARCASE COMPONENTS
1. Bolt 27. Clutch spring

2. Bearing and seal 28. Spring
housing 29. Propeller shaft
3. O-ring 30. Thrust washer
4. Seals 31. Pinion nut
5. Shim 32. Pinion gear
6. Bearing 33. Reverse gear
7. Splined section 34. Shim
8. Drive shaft 35. Reverse gear
9. Spring bearing
10. Shim 36. Needle bearing / Tab washer
Cover nut
11. Tab washer 37. Propeller shaft
12. Washer seals
13. Levellvent plug 38. Spacer
14. Sealing washer 39. O-ring
15. Speedometer connector 40. Bearing carrier
16. Gearcase housing 41. Key
17. Drainlfill plug 42. Tab washer as indicated in Figure 59. Turn the cover nut
18. Sealing washer 43. Cover nut counterclockwise and remove the cover nut and tab
19. Shim 44. Thrust washer
20. Forward gear 45. Propeller washer.
bearing 46. Splined washer 3. Engage the puller arms (Suzuki part No. 09950-587 10)
21. Forward gear 47. Propeller nut and puller assembly (Suzuki part No. 09930-3941 1) to the
22. Thrust washer 48. Cotter pin
49. Plain washer
carrier and propeller shaft as indicated in Figure 60. Turn
23. Cam follower
24. Cross pin connector 50. Collar the puller bolt to free the carrier from the gearcase. Grasp
25. Cross pin 51. Lower drive shaft the end of propeller shaft and pull the carrier from the
26. Clutch bearing gearcase (Figure 34). Remove the key (4 1. Figure 57)
from the bearing carrier or groove in the gearcase open-
ing. If necessary to ease removal, use a torch to apply heat
to the gearcase near the gearcase to carrier mating sur-
faces.
CAUTION
When using heat, make sure to keep the
flame awayfrom the seals or 0-imgs Never
heat the housing to the point that the fim'sli
1.5 burned Continually move the flame
around the mating surface to appl\ even
heating. Excessive w e o f heat can dl \tort or
melt the gearcase
326 CHAPTER NINE
4. Pull the spacer (38. Figure 57) from the bearing carrier
or gearcase opening. Remove the O-ring (39, Figure 57)
from the carrier.
5. Pull the propeller shaft (29, Figure 57) from the car-
rier. Place the carrier on a sturdy work surface with the
gear side up. Lift the thrust washer, reverse gear and shim
(30. 33 and 34, Figure 57) from the bearing carrier (40).
6. Remove the reverse gear bearing (35, Figure 57) only
if it must be replaced. Refer to Gearcase Component In-
soft jaws.
b. Engage the jaws of a slide hammer into the bearing
Discard the bearing after removal.
strokes to remove the seals from the carrier.
8. Remove the needle bearings (36, Figure 57) only if
they must be replaced. Remove the bearing as follows:
a. Select an appropriately sized socket or section of
tubing for use as a bearing installation tool. The tool
must be large enough in diameter to contact the
bearing cage yet not contact the bearing carrier dur-
ing removal.
b. Place the bearing carrier on a sturdy word surface
with the seal bore facing down. Propeller shaft disassembly
c. Hold the tool in firm contact with the inner bearing
and lightly tap on the tool (Figure 49). Continue LIII-
1. Use a screwdriver to unwind the spring from the clutch
til the outer bearing if free from the carrier. Repeat
(Figure 38).
the process to remove the inner bearing.
9. Use a suitable solvent and soft bristle brush to clean 2. Pull the cam follower from the propeller shaft (Figure
corrosion and other contaminants from the carrier. 39).
10. Inspect the carrier for cracked, pitted or damaged sur- 3. Use a pin punch to push the cross pin from the clutch
faces. Replace the carrier if defects are noted. and propeller shaft (Figure 40).
GEARCASE 327
I@ HIFT SHAFT COMPONENTS

4. Remove the cross pin connector (24, Figure 57) and
spring (28) from the propeller shaft.
5. Remove the forward thrust washer (22, Figure 57)
1 F60 AND DF70 MODELS from the propeller shaft or forward gear (2 1).
sive wear or defects.
Drive shaft removal and disassembly
1 . Remove the four bolts from the bearing and seal hous-
ing (Figure 61).
2. Engage the splined adapter (Suzuki part No.
0992 1-28710) onto the upper end of the drive shaft (Fig-
ure 50). Hold the pinion nut (31, Figure 57) with a
breaker bar and socket. Rotate the adapter counterclock-
wise until the pinion nut is free from the drive shaft.
3. Carefully pull the drive shaft (8, Figure 57) along with
the bearing and seal housing (2) from the gearcase. Slide
the drive shaft (8, Figure 57), bearing race (6) and shim
(5) from the bearing and seal housing (2).
4. Pull the thrust washers (A and B, Figure 62) and collar
(C) from the gearcase. Slidc the spring (9, Figure 57)
from the drive shaft.
5. Remove the tapered roller bearing from the drive shaft
only if it must bc replaced. Refer to Gearcase Component
Inspection in this chapter. Replace the bearing as follows:
a. Position a bearing separator onto the open jaws of a
vice as indicated in Figure 37.
b. Open the separator enough to allow the shaft to just
slide through.
c. Slide the drive shaft into the separator with the pin-
ion gear side facing down. Rest the drive shaft bear-
ing against the separator.
d. Use a block of wood to protect the splined end of the
drive shaft and carefully drive the shaft from the
bearing.
1. Bolt 13. Collar
2. Cover 14. Large diameter pin
6. Place the bearing and seal housing (2, Figure 57) on a
3. O-ring 15. Small diameter pin sturdy work surface right side up. Use a blunt tip pry bar to
4. Seal 16. Shift cam push both seals from the housing.
5. Washer 17. Spring
6. Sleeve 18. Spacer
7. O-ring 19. Detent ball Shift shaft removal and disassembly
8. Snap ring 20. Magnet
9. Pin 21. Clamp 1 . Remove the three bolts (Figure 63) from the shift shaft
10. Shift shaft 22. Washer
11. Spring 23. O-rings
cover. Grip the top of the shift shaft with pliers and lift the
12. Spacer 24. Alignment pin assembly from the gearcase. Remove the O-ring (3, Fig-
ure 64) from the cover or gearcase. Remove the align-
ment pin (24, Figure 64) from the cover (2).
2. Remove the snap ring (8, Figure 64) and pull the cover
(2) from the shift shaft.
328 CHAPTER NINE
3. Make reference marks on the shift shaft and shift cam

prior to removing the cam. Use a pin punch to drive both
pins (14 and 15, Figure 64) from the shift shaft (10) and
shift cam (16). Pull the shift cam from the shift shaft.
4. Use a pin punch and carefully drive the pin (9, Figure
64) from the shift shaft. Remove the spring, spacer and
collar (1 1- 13, Figure 64) from the shift shaft.
5. Remove the seal (4, Figure 64), washers (5 and 22),
sleeve ( 6 ) and O-rings (23) from the cover (2).
6. Remove the magnet and clamp (20 and 2 1 , Figure 64)
7. Check the fit of the pins (14 and 15, Figure 64) to the
shift shaft (10) and cam (16). Replace the pin if a loose fit
occurs. Replace the cam andlor shaft if a loose fit occurs
with a new pin installed.
8. Install new O-rings and seals in all location during as-
sembly
Shims' Being
race
Gear and bearing removal
1. Remove the pinion gear (32, Figure 57) from the

gearcase.
2. Pull the forward gear and shim (2 land 22, Figure 57)
from the gearcase. Remove the tapered roller bearing
from the gearcase or forward gear.
3. Remove the forward bearing race and shims (20 and
19, Figure 57) only if the bearing must be replaced. Refer
to Gearcase Component Inspection in this chapter. Re-
move the bearing race as follows:
a. Engage the jaws of a slide hammer to the race as in-
chcatcd in Figure 65.
b. Use short hammer strokes to remove the race and
~ h i m s ~~ e a r i &
shims from the housing.
race
4. Remove the lower drive shaft bearing (5 1 , Figure 57)
Inspection in this chapter. Remove the bearing as follows:
a. Measure the distance from the top of the gearcase to
the measurement for use in gearcase assembly. tive or questionable components.
b. Select an appropriately sized socket and extension
or section of tubing for use as a bearing removal Gear and bearing installation
tool. The tool must be of a diameter to contact the
top of the bearing yet not contact the drive shaft 1 . Position the new lower drive shaft bearing ( 5 1, Figure
bore. 57) into the drive shaft bore with the numbered side facing
c. Hold the tool in firm contact with the bearing (Fig- up.
ure 42) and carefully drive the bearing from the 2. Using the removal tool, slowly drive the bearing into
gearcase. the bore. Stop frequently and measure the depth. Continue
5. Remove the detent ball, spring and spacer (1 7- 19, Fig- until the bearing just reaches the depth recorded prior to
ure 64) from the gearcase. removal.
6. Use a suitable solvent to clean all grease, metal filings 3. Lubricate the forward bearing race (20, Figure 57)
or other contaminants from the gearcase. with gearcase lubricant. Place the shims (19, Figure 57)
made prior to removal. Use a pin punch to drive the larger
diameter pin (14, Figure 64) through the shift cam and
shift shaft. Drive the smaller diameter pin into the larger
Bearing and
diameter pin. Ensure both pins are centered in the shift
seal housing cam.
I /
Bearing race 5. Use a pin punch to drive the pin (9, Figure 64) into its
opening in the shift shaft. Ensure the pin protrudes the
same amount on each side of the shift shaft.
6. Carefully slide the shift shaft into the opening of the
cover (2, Figure 64). Push in on the shaft to compress the
spring (1 1. Figure 64) and install the snap ring (8). Ensure
the snap ring fully engages the groove in the bottom of the
cover.
7. Lubricate the surfaces with grease and install a new
O-ring (3, Figure 64) onto the cover (2). Insert the align-
ment pin (24, Figure 64) into the opening in the cover.
8. Rotate the shift shaft to align the detent ball notch and
the cover with the forward side of the gearcase.
9. Carefully lower the shift shaft into the gearcasc. Align
the pin of the cover with its respective opening in the
and race into the gearcase bore with the tapered side fac- gearcase and seat the cover against the gearcase. Move the
ing out. shift shaft up and down to verify correct orientation of the
4. Select an appropriately sized socket and extension or detent notch. A distinct detent is felt when the shaft
section of tubing for use as an installation tool. The tool reaches the neutral position. Remove and re-install the
must be of a diameter to contact near the outer circumfer- shift shaft and/or detent ball as needed.
ence of the race yet not contact the housing during instal- 10. Thread the three bolts into the shift shaft cover (Fig-
lation. Slowly drive the race and shims into the housing ure 63). Securely tighten the bolts.
until fully seated (Figure 66). Place the tapered roller
bearinginto the race.
5. Lubricate the surfaces with grease and place the Drive shaft assembly and installation
spacer, spring and detent ball (1 7-19, Figure 64) into their
1. Select a section of tubing for use as a drive shaft bcar-
opening. The opening is located at the front of the
ing installation tool. The inner diameter of the tubing must
gearcase and directly in line with the shift shaft bore.
be slightly larger than the drive shaft. Clamp the pinion
6. Place the tapered roller bearing into the bearing race.
gear end of the drive shaft into a vice equipped with soft
Install the hub of the gear into the bore of the bearing. En-
jaws.
sure the gear seats against the bearing.
2. Slide the tapered roller bearing (6, Figure 57) over the
7. Install the pinion gear into the gearcasc. Align the upper end of the drive shaft with the tapered side facing
splined opening in the gear with the drive shaft bore and away from the pinion gear end.
engage the pinion gear teeth to the forward gear teeth.
3. Slide the installation tool over the drive shaft and seat
it against the bearing. Carefully tap on the upper end of the
Shift shaft asseinb/y and installation tool until the bearing seats against the step on the shaft.
4. If replacing the drive shaft (8, Figure 57). bearing (6)
1. Snap the magnet and clamp (20 and 21, Figure 64) or pinion gear (32), use the shim gauge (Suzuki part No.
onto the shift shaft. Position the magnet just above the 09951-08720) to determine the correct drive shaft shim
bend in the shaft. thickness as follows:
2. Lubricate the surfaces with grease and install the seal a. Assemble the pinion gear, bearing and seal housing,
(4, Figure 64), washers (5 and 22), sleeve (6) and O-rings bearing race and spacers on the drive shaft as shown
(23) into the cover (2). in Figure 67. Do not install the shims (5, Figure 57)
3. Place the spring, spacer and collar (1 1-13, Figure 64) at this time.
onto the shift shaft. b. Attach the drive shaft bearing housing to the shim
4. Slide the shift cam (16, Figure 64) onto the shift shaft gauge. Securely tighten the bolts that retain the
(10). Rotate the shift cam to align the reference mark bearing housing on the shim gauge. Ensure the
330 AFTER NINE
drive shaft rests on the support (Figure 67) during 11. Apply Suzuld thread lock (pan No.99000-32050) to
the measurement. the threads of the drive shaft and pinion nut (3 1, Figure
c. Lightly pull the drive shaft to seat the bearing 57). Thread the pinion nut onto the drive shaft.
against the housing and measure the gap between 12. Engage the splined adapter (Suzuki part No.
the pinion gear and the gauge with a feeler gauge. 0992 1-28710) onto the upper end of the drive shaft (Fig-
d. Use a shim with the same thickness as the feeler ure 50). Hold the pinion nut with a breaker bar and socket.
gauge. Assemble the drive shaft to the shimming Tighten the pinion nut to the specification in Table 1.
gauge with the shim installed.
e. Repeat the measurement. If the correct shim is in-
stalled, there will be no gap at the measurement Propeller shaft assembly and installation
point, but the drive shaft will be able to rotate in the
shim gauge. Use a thinner or thicker shim to achieve 1. Insert the spring (28, Figure 57) into the opening in the
the desired measurement. Remove the pinion gear, forward side of the propeller shaft.
bearing race, spacers and seal housing from the 2. Place the cross pin connector (24, Figure 57) into the
drive shaft. opening and seat it against the spring. Insert the cam fol-
5. Select an appropriately sized socket or section of tub- lower into the opening with the smaller diameter side fac-
ing for use as a seal installation tool. The tool must contact ing out (Figure 39).
near the outer circumference of the seal yet not contact the 3. Slide the clutch over the propeller shaft with the Fmark-
housing during installation. Install the drive shaft seals as ing facing the forward gear side of the shaft (Figure 44).
follows: 4. Align the cross pin opening in the clutch with the slot
a. Place the bearing and seal housing on a sturdy work in the propeller shaft (Figure 45). Remove and reposition
surface with the open side facing up. the clutch as needed.
b. Place the inner seal into the bore opening with the 5. Push in and rotate the cam follower (23, Figure 57) to
lip side facing up. Use the seal installation tool to align the hole in the cross pin connector (Figure 45) with
push the seal into the bore. Stop when the seal stir- the cross pin hole in the clutch. Push the cross pin (25,
face is just below the bore opening. Figure 57) through both holes and release the cam fol-
c. Place the outer seal into the bore opening with the lower.
lip side facing up. Push the outer seal into the bore 6. Ensure the ends of the cross pin are flush with the
until the inner seal seats in the bore. clutch surfaces. Carefully wind the spring onto the clutch
d. Apply a bead of water resistant grease to the lip of (Figure 38). Ensure the spring spans both ends of the
both seals. cross pin. Reposition the spring as needed.
6. Slide the spring (9, Figure 57) onto the pinion end of 7. Apply grease to the surfaces and install the thrust
the drive shaft (8). Seat the spring against the step on the washer (22, Figure 57) onto the forward gear side of the
drive shaft. propeller shaft.
7. Install the collar (C, Figure 62) into the drive shaft 8. Install the propeller shaft assen~blyalong with the
bore. Rotate the collar to align the tab with the recess in bearing carrier as described in this chapter.
the housing during installation. Align the opening in the
thmst washers (A and B, Figure 62) with the drive shaft
bore and seat them against the bottom of the collar. Bearing carrier assembly and installation
8. Carefully insert the drive shaft into the collar. Rotate
the drive shaft clockwise to align the pinion gear and drive I . Place the inner needle bearing (36, Figure 57) into the
shaft splines. The drive shaft drops into position as the bore opening with the numbered side facing out. Use the
splines align. bearing removal tool to carefully drive the bearing into the
9. Apply grease to the surfaces and place a new O-ring (3, carrier. Seat the bearing against the step at the bottom of
Figure 57) onto the bearing and seal housing (2). Slide the the bore. Install the outer bearing into the bore with the
bearing race, shims and bearing and seal housing (2, 5, numbered side out until it seats against the inner bearing.
and 6, Figure 57) onto the upper end of the drive shaft. 2 Select an appropriately sized socket or section of hib-
10. Rotate the bearing and seal housing until the F mark ing for use as a seal installation tool. The tool must be of a
on the housing faces the shift shaft. Seat the housing diameter large enough to contact near the outer circumfer-
against the gearcase and install the four bolts (1, Figure ence of the seal yet not contact the seal bore during instal-
57). Tighten the bolts to the specification in Table 1. lation.
10. Position the gearcase with the drive shaft facing up.
Grasp the splined section of the propeller shaft to retain
the shaft into the carrier. Align the forward side of the pro-
peller shaft with the opening in the forward gear while
sliding the carrier into the housing. Rotate the drive shaft
clockwise to align the reverse and pinion gear teeth while
seating the carrier into the gearcase.
I I. Lightly tap on the carrier until it fully seats against the
gearcase. Rotate the carrier until the key slot in the carrier
and gearcase align. Use needle nose pliers to install the
key (4 1, Figure 57).
12. Place the tab washer (42, Figure 57) into the gearcase
3. Place one of the seals into the bore in the propeller side opening with the o//'mark facing out. Align the protrusion
of the carrier with the lip side facing out. Slowly drive the 011 the bearing carrier with the notch in the washer and
seal into the bore until it rest just below the bore opening. seat the washer against the carrier.
4. Place the remaining seal into the bore with the lip side 13. Apply Suzuki bond (part No. 99000-31030) to the
facing out. Slowly drive the seal into the bore until it con- threads of the cover nut (43, Figure 57). Carefully thread
tacts the inner seal. the cover nut into the gearcase opening.
5. Carefully drive both seals into the bore until the inner 14. Slide the cover nut tool (Suzuki part No. 0995 1-18720)
seal fully seats in the bore. Apply a bead of Suzuki water over the propeller shaft. Engage the tool to the cover nut as
resistant grease (part No. 99000-25 160) to the lip surfaces indicated in Figure 59. Tighten the cover nut to the specifi-
of both seals. cation in Table 1. Bend one or more of the tabs against the
6. Install the reverse gear bearing as follows: cover nut to retain the nut. If necessary, tighten the cover
Select an appropriately sized socket or section of nut slightly to align the tabs with the nut.
tubing for use as a bearing installation tool. The tool 15. Refer to Shim Selection in this chapter to determine if
must be of a diameter to contact the outer race of the the gear alignment is correct. Install the water pump com-
bearing yet not contact the bearing bore during in- ponents and gearcase as described in this chapter.
stallation.
Lubricate the bearing with gearcase lubricant. Posi-
tion the bearing into the bore opening with the 11~1111- Gearcase Component Inspection
bered side facing out. Place the bearing carrier with
This section provides instruction for inspecting and
the seal side down on a sturdy work surface.
measuring all internal gearcase components. Never use
Hold the installation tool firmly against the bearing
damaged, worn or questionable components. The cost of
the new component is usually far less than the cost to re-
bearing must scat against the step within the bore.
pair the gearcase if it fails.
7. Position the shim (34, Figure 57) onto the hub of the
reverse gear (33). Lubricate the reverse gear with
gearcase lubricant. Slide the reverse gear hub into the bore Shift shaft
of the reverse gear bearing until seated against the shim
and bearing (34 and 35, Figure 57). I . Inspect the bore in the propeller shaft for the presence
8. Lubricate the O-ring (39, Figure 57) with water resis- of debris or damaged or worn areas. Clean debris from the
tant grease and position it onto the groove of the bearing bore.
carrier. Lubricate the surfaces with grease and slide the 2. Inspect the clutch spring for damage, corrosion or
thrust washer (30, Figure 57) onto the rear side of the pro- weak spring tension, replace it if necessary.
peller shaft. Seat the washer against the step near the 3. Inspect the cross pin for damaged, rough or worn sur-
clutch. faces. Replace as required. Inspect the cam follower and
9. Carefully slide the propeller shaft (splined section spring for damage or corrosion and replace them as re-
first) through the opening in the reverse gear. Seat the pro- quired.
peller shaft against the reverse gear. Install the spacer (38, 4. Inspect the can1 follower for cracked, broken or worn
Figure 57) into the gearcase opening and seat it against areas. Replace any worn or defective components.
the step in the housing. Lubricate the gearcase opening 5. Inspect the shift cam (Figure 68), located at the lower
with gearcase lubricant. end of the shift shaft, for worn, chipped, cracked or cor-
332 CHAPTER NINE
roded surfaces. Replace the shift cam and follower if de-

fects or worn surfaces are noted.
6. Inspect the shift shaft for worn areas or a bent or
twisted condition. Inspect the shift shaft bushing for
cracks or a worn shift shaft bore. Replace the housing or
shift shaft when defects are noted.
Propeller shaft
1. Place the propeller shaft on V-blocks and rotate the

shaft. Note if any deflection or wobble is present. Replace
the propeller shaft if visible deflection or wobble is noted.
2. Inspect the propeller shaft surfaces (A, Figure 69) for
corrosion, damage or worn areas.
3. Inspect the propeller shaft splines and threaded area
(B, Figure 69) for twisted splines or damaged threads.
4. Inspect the bearing contact areas at the front and mid-
point of the propeller shaft. Replace the propeller if dis-
colored areas, rough surfaces, transferred bearing
material or other defects are noted.
5 . Inspect the propeller shaft at the seal contact areas. Re-
place the propeller shaft if deep grooves are present in the
Regular rotation ?
surface.
6. Place V-blocks at the points shown in Figure 70. Use a
dial indicator to measure the shaft deflection at the rear
bearing support area. Securely mount the dial indicator.
Observe the dial indicator movement and slowly rotate
the propeller shaft. Replace the propeller shaft if the nec-
die movement exceeds 0.2 mm (0.008 in.).
Clutch, gears and bearings
1. Inspect the clutch (B, Figure 71) and gear surfaces for
chipped, damaged, worn or rounded over surfaces. Re-
place the clutch and gears if any of these conditions are
found on either component.
2. Inspect the gear for worn, broken or damaged teeth (A,
Figure 71).
3. Note the presence of pitted, rough or excessively worn
(highly polished) surfaces. Replace all of the gears if any
of these conditions is found. This is especially important
on engines with high operating hours.
CA UTION
Replace all gears i f any require replace- 5 . Replace all bearings if the gear lubricant drained from
ment. A wearpattern forms on each gear gf- the gearcase was heavily contaminated with metal parti-
ter a few hours of use If a new gear is used cles. The particles tend to collect inside the bearing as-
along with usedgears, the wearpattern will sembly.
be disturbed andpremature wear will occ~u:
6. Inspect the roller bearing (Figure 72) and bearing race
4. Thoroughly clean all bearings in solvent and air dry surfaces for pitting, rusting, discoloration or rough sur-
prior to inspection. faces.
7. Inspect the bearing race for highly polished or un-
evenly worn surfaces. Replace the bearing assembly if
any of these defects is noted.
8. Rotate ball bearings and note any rough operation.
Move the bearing in the directions shown in Figure 73.
Note the presence of axial or radial play. Replace the bear-
ing if rough operation or excessive play is noted.
Axial
9. Inspect the needle bearings (Figure 74) located in the
bearing carrier, gearcase and drive shaft seal and bearing
housing. Replace the bearing if flattened rollers, discolor-
ation, rusting, rough surfaces or pitting is noted.
10. Inspect the propellcr shaft and drive shaft at the bear-
ing contact area. Replace the drive shaft and/or propeller
shaft along with the needle bearing if any discoloration,
pits, transferred bearing material or rough surfaces exist.
Spring measurement
Radial Measure the spring that fits within the bore of the pro-
peller shaft at tlie points indicated in Figure 75. Do not
conipress the spring during tlie measurement. Compare
tlie measurement with tlie specification in Table 2. Re-
place the spring if not within the specification.
Shims, spacers, thrust washers and fasteners
1. Inspect all shims for bent, rusted or damaged surfaces.

Replace any shim that is not in like-new condition.
2. Spacers are used in various locations within the
gearcase. Some function as thrust bearings or thrust sur-
faces. Replace them if worn areas are noted or if they are
bent. corroded or damaged. Use only the correct part to re-
place them. In most cases, they are of a certain dimension
and made of a specific material.
3. Replace any self-locking nut that is not in excellent
condition. Replace the pinion nut anytime it is removed
from the drive shaft.
334 CHAPTER NINE
4. Replace any worn or damaged washers located on the

pinion gear. These washers are sometimes used as a thrust
loaded surface and are subject to wear. On many models
they are available in various thickness. Refer to Slum Se-
lection to determine the proper thickness.
Gear adjusting set, Ill !
09951-09510
GEAR CASE SHIM SELECTION
Shim selection is required if replacing major internal

components including gears, bearings, drive shaft or the
gearcase housing.
On most models, shim selection involves the use ofpre-
cise measuring equipment. If the measuring equipment
and experience is not available, contact a marine repair
shop with Suzuki outboard repair experience.
Always use the same shim thickness as removed from
each shim location during the initial assembly. Assemble
the gearcase and measure drive shaft thrust play and gear
backlash and propeller shaft thrust play. Gear Pattern In-
spection follows these measurements to verify alignment.
If adjustment is necessary, refer to Gearcase Shim Adjust-
ments.
Drive Shaft Thrust Play
A dial indicator and clamp kit (Suzuki part No.

0995 1-09510) or another suitable dial indicator and clamp
are required for accurate measurement of the shaft move-
ment. This measurement is used to determine reverse gear
position within the housing.
1. Place the dial indicator and clamp kit over the drive
shaft and align the tip of the dial indictor over a flat and
stable gearcase surface as shown in Figure 76. Do not
tighten the wing nut on the clamp. 7. The reverse gear is correctly positioned if the nieasurc-
2. Hold the drive shaft in the down position, toward the inents in Step 5 and Step 6 are equal. Refer to Gearcme Shim
gearcase. A~//Â¥;mnent in this chapter if the measurements differ.
3. Carefully slide the clamp and dial indicator down until 8A. On DF60 and DF70 models install the propeller shaft
the needle moves about 2.0 mm (0.079 in.) on the meter and bearing carrier as described in this chapter.
face. 8B. On all other models, do not install the propeller shaft
4. Hold the drive shaft down and securely tighten the and bearing carrier at this time.
wing nut on the clamp. While holding the drive shaft
down, rotate the meter face until the needle aligns with the Gear Backlash Measurement
0 mark.
5. Observe the dial indicator reading and pull up on the Gear backlash measurement indicates the amount of
drive shaft. Repeat the measurement several times and re- free play between the teeth of the pinion and forward gear
cord the reading as drive shaft thrust play. Note that this (Figure 77). This free play allows room for heat expan-
measurement is with the bearing carrier installed. sion, gear deflection and the lubricant. Improper backlash
6. Remove the bearing carrier and propeller shaft as de- results in noisy operation, increased wear andlor gear fail-
scribed in this chapter. Repeat the drive shaft thrust play ure.
measurement. Record the average measurement. Note A dial indicator and clamp kit (Suzuki part No.
that this measurement is with the bearing earner removed. 0995 1-095 100) or other suitable dial indicator and clamp
GEARCASE 335
DF9.9 and DFIS models
1. Remove the bearing carrier and propeller shaft as de-

scribed in this chapter. Remove the drainlfill plug from
the gearcase. Inspect the alignment of the drain fill plug
opening relative to the forward gear teeth. Inspection
varies depending on the plug location.
2A. On models that have a plug opening aligned with the
forward gear teeth, measure the gear backlash as follows:
a. Securely hold the drive shaft to prevent pinion gear
rotation.
b. Attach a suitable dial indicator to the gcarcase using
the drainlfill plug opening (Figure 78). Align the
tip ofthe dial indicator so that it contacts the outside
edge of one of the forward gear teeth.
are required for accurate measurement of the shaft or gear c. Ensure the tip of the dial indicator is pushed in
tooth movement. A backlash indicator arm (Suzuki part slightly and making contact with the convex side of
No. 09952-08710) and gear holder (Suzuki part No. a single tooth at all times during the measurement.
0995 1-98720) is also required for DF60 and DF70 mod- d. Observe the amount of needle movement on the dial
els. indicator and reach into the gearcase and gently
Gear backlash measurement instructions vary by rock the forward gear (Figure 79). Do not move the
model. Refer to the instructions for the selected model. pinion gear with the forward gear.
NOTE e. Record the amount of needle movement as forward
Ensure that all gearcase lubricant is gear backlash. Remove the dial indicator.
drained/rom the gearcase prior to measur- f. Compare the backlash measurement with the speci-
ing the gear backlash. An inaccurate read- fication in Table 2.
ing will result jboin the cushion effect of the
lubricant on the gear teeth. 2B. On models that have a plug opening not aligned with
the forward gear teeth, check the gear backlash as follows:
NOTE a. Reach into the gearcase with a glove protcctcd
All wafer pump components must he re- hand. Push forward on the gear while preventing ro-
moved prior to measuring gear backlash.
tation.
The drag caused by the water pump compo-
nents will prevent accurate backlash inea- b. Gently rotate the drive shaft (Figure 80) to detect
as;ire?nent. free play between the pinion and forward g a r .
336 CHAPTER NINE
c. Hold the drive shaft stationary and carefully rock

the forward gear (Figure 80) to detect free play bc-
tween the forward and pinion gear.
d. Correct backlashe allows a slight amount of free
play while rotating the drive shaft or forward gear.
3. Refer to Gearcase Shim Adjustments in this chapter if
the backlash is incorrect. Backlash indicator
indicator arm, 1 1 1
DF25 and DFSO models
I. Remove the bearing carrier and propeller shaft as de-

scribed in this chapter.
2. Reach into the gearcase and hold the pinion gear up
and stationary as indicated in Figure 81.
3. Carefully rock the forward gear (Figure 80) to detect
free play bctwecn the forward and pinion gear.
4. Correct backlash allows approximately 0.1-0.2 mm
(0.004-0.008 in.) of free play.
5. Refer to Gearcase Shim Adjustments in this chapter if
the backlash is incorrect. 6. Record the amount of needle movement as forward
gear backlash. Remove the dial indicator.
7. Compare the backlash measurement with the specifi-
DF40 and DFSO models cation in Table 2.
I . Remove the drainlfill plug From the gearcase. 8. Refer to Shim C w e s in the section if the backlash is
2. Securely hold the drive shaft to prevent rotation of the incorrect.
pinion gear.
3. Attach a suitable dial indicator to the gearcase using DF60 and DF70 models
the drainlfill plug opening (Figure 78). Align the tip of
the dial indicator so that it contacts the outside edge of one NOTE
of the forward gear teeth. The propeller shaft and bearing carrier
4. Ensure the tip of the dial indicator is pushed in slightly must be installed duringgear backlash nzea-
and making contact with the convex side of a single tooth surement.
at all times during the measurement.
5 . Observe the amount of needle movement on the dial I. Hook the arms (Figure 82) of the gear holder (Suzuki
indicator while reaching into the gearcase and gently part No. 0995 1-98720) to the struts of the bearing carrier.
rocking the forward gear (Figure 79). Do not move the Engage the bolt to the end of the propeller shaft. Tighten
pinion gear with the forward gear. the bolt to approximately 5 Nmin (42 in.-lb.).
69
Dia
9. Determine the average of the four backlash measure-

incnts. Compare the average with the specification listed
in Table 2.
10. Refer to Shim Changes in tlie section if the backlash
is incorrect.
Propeller Shaft Thrust Play Measurement
A dial indicator and clamp kit (Suzuki part No.

09951-095 10) or other suitable dial indicator and clamp
(Figure 84) are required for this measurenlent. A flat
piece of steel is also required. Install the propeller shaft
and bearing carrier as described in this chapter prior to
measuring the thrust play.
1. Pull up on the shift shaft and shift the gearcase into for-
ward. Maintain the shift shaft in this position.
2. Place the steel plate against the gearcase as shown in
Figure 84.
3. Place the dial indicator and clamp over the propeller
2. Rotate the drive shaft clockwise several revolutions to shaft and align the tip of the dial indictor with the steel
seat the forward gear and bearing. Re-tighten the bolt plate (Figure 84). Do not tighten the wing nut on the
(Figure 82). clamp at this time.
3. Snap the backlash indicator am1 (Suzuki part No. 4. Push tlic propeller shaft forward toward the gearcase.
09952-087 10) onto the drive shaft as indicated in Figure 5. Carefully slide the clamp and dial indicator toward the
83. gearcase until the needle moves about 2.0 mm (0.078 in.)
4. Securely mount a dial indicator to the gearcase. Align on the meter face (Figure 85).
the tip of the dial indicator with the line on the backlash 6. Hold the propeller shaft forward and the steel plate
indicator arm. The dial indicator must be perpendicular to against the gearcase and securely tighten the wing nut on
the arm for accurate measurement. the clamp.
5. Observe the amount of needle movement while gently 7. While holding the propeller shaft and steel plate in po-
rotating the drive shaft back and forth (Figure 80). sition, rotate the meter face until the needle aligns with the
6. Remove the backlash indicator ann and rotate the 0 mark.
drive shaft clockwise approximately 90'. 8. Observe the dial indicator reading and pull on the pro-
7. Reattach the indicator arm and repeat Steps 5 and 6. peller shaft (Figure 86). Keep the steel plate held firmly
Continue until four measurements are taken. against tlie gearcase during this measurement.
8. Remove the dial indicator, backlash indicator arm and 9. Repeat the measurement several times and record the
gear holder. reading.
338 CHAPTER NINE
10. Compare the propeller shaft thrust play measure-

ments with the specification in Table 2.
, Tooth
11. Refer to Gearcase Shim Adjustments in this chapter if Concave side
the thrust play is incorrect.
Gear Pattern Inspection
Use prussian blue or other suitable marking compound

during this inspection. These can be purchased from an
automotive parts store or machine tool supply facility.
1. Remove the bearing carrier and propeller shaft from
the gearcase as described in this chapter. Tooth contact
2. Apply a light coat of marking compound to the gear
tooth surfaces of the forward gear.
3. Install the propeller shaft and bearing carrier as de-
4. Firmly push the propeller shaft toward the gearcase.
Rotate the drive shaft five complete revolutions clockwise Tooth bottom
while maintaining pressure on the propeller shaft.
5. Remove the bearing carrier and propeller shaft as de-
6. Compare the pattern mark on the forward gear teeth
with the mark in Figure 87. Ideal tooth contact patterns
are about one-third as long as the gear tooth and are lo-
cated on the toe side (Figure 87) of the gear tooth. The
pattern should start about 1.0 mm (0.040 in.) below the
tooth top.
7. Operating the engine with a top of toe contact pattern
1 Top side toe contact
(Figure 88) or bottom side of toe contact pattern (Figure

89) will cause chipping of the pinion and forward gear TOE
teeth.
8. To move the pattern toward the heel and bottom of the
gear tooth, refer to the instructions for the selected model:
a. On DF9.9 and DF 15 models select a thicker pinion
gear shim (8, Figure 31) and a thinner forward gear
shim (2 1, Figure 31).
b. On DF25 and DF30 models select a thicker pinion
shim (49, Figure 48).
c. On DF40 and DF50 models select a thicker pinion
shim (1 6, Figure 51).
d. On DF60 and DF70 models select a thicker pinion
gear shim (10, Figure 57) and a thinner forward
gear shim (19, Figure 57).
9. Move the pattern toward the top and heel of the tooth
as follows:
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models select a thinner pinion
gear shim (8, Figure 31) and a thicker forward gear
shim (21, Figure 31).
GEARCASE 339
1. Pinion gear shim

2. Forward gear shim
3. Front mounted thrust washer
4. Rear mounted thrust washer
5. Reverse gear shim
b. On DF25 and DF30 models select a thinner pinion and install the next thinner size shim in this location. In-
gear shim (9, Figure 48) and a thicker forward gear stall the propeller shaft and bearing carrier. Measure the
shim (49, Figure 48). drive shaft thrust play as described in this chapter. Install a
c. On DF40 and DF50 models select a thinner pinion progressively thinner shim until the drive shaft thrust play
gear shim (1, Figure 51) and a thicker forward gear is equal with or without the carrier installed. Do not use a
shim (16, Figure 51). thinner shim than necessary to achieve equal measure-
d. On DF60 and DF70 models select a thinner pinion ments.
sear shim (10. Figure 57) and a thicker forward
u
gear shim (19, Figure 57).

10. Disassemble the gearcase and make the indicated Propeller Shaft Thrust Play Adjustment
shim changes. Change the shim thickness in small incre-
ments. Reassemble the gearcase and repeat this proce- Correct the propeller shaft thrust play by changing the
dure. Continue until the patteni is correct. thickness of the rear mounted thrust washer. This washer
(4, Figure 90) is located on the propeller shaft between
the clutch and the reverse gear. Alternate rear mounted
GEARCASE SHIM ADJUSTMENTS
thrust washers are available in sizes that change in 0.1 rnm
This section provides instructions on how to correct (0.004 in.) increments. The front mounted thrust washer
drive shaft thrust play, propeller shaft thrust play, and gear (3, Figure 90) is located on the propeller shaft, between
backlash measurements. the clutch and the forward gear. The manufacture does not
Shims or thrust washers are available in varying thick- supply this washer in an alternate thickness.
ness. Subtract the measured propeller shaft thrust play from
the specification in Table 2 to determine the amount of
change required. Select a thinner rear mounted thrust
Drive Shaft Thrust Play Adjustment
washer to increase the propeller shaft thrust play. Select a
Decrease the reverse gear shim thickness if the drive thicker rear mounted thrust washer to decrease the propel-
shaft thrust play measurement increases with the bearing ler shaft thrust play.
carrier removed. The reverse gear shim ( 5 , Figure 90) is Remove the bearing carrier and propeller shaft as de-
located between the reverse gear and the reverse gear scribed in this chapter and install the selected thrust
bearing. Remove the bearing carrier and propeller shaft washer. Re-install the propeller shaft and bearing carrier
340 CHAPTER NINE
and measure the thmst play. Perform additional changes On all other models, the forward gear bearing shim (2,
as needed. Figure 90) is located between the forward gear and the
forward gear bearing.
Disassemble the gearcase until the shims are accessible
Gear Backlash Adjustment as described in this chapter. Install thicker shims to de-
crease the backlash. Install thinner shims to increase the
gear backlash. Change the shim thickness in the sn~allest
Correct the gear backlash by changing the thickness of possible increments. Reassemble the gearcase and mea-
the shim(s) next to the forward gear bearing. Shim loca- sure the gear backlash. Make additional shim changes as
tions in the gearcase vary by model. needed.
On DF60 and DF70 models, the forward gear bearing Perform a gear pattern inspection as described in this
shims (19, Figure 57) are located between the forward section to verify correct gear alignment. Make additional
gear bearing race and the gearcase housing. shim changes to correct the gear pattern.
TABLE 1 TORQUE SPECIFICATION

N*m ft.-lb. in.-lb.
Propeller nut
DF9.9, DF15, DF25, DF30 18 13 -
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70 55 40 -
Water pump attaching bolts
DF9.9, DF15, DF25, DF30 8 - 71
DF40, DF50 8 - 71
DF60, DF70 20 15 -
Drainlfill plug 13 - 115
Gearcase attaching bolts
DF9.9, DF15, DF25, DF30 23 17 -
DF40, DF50 23 17 -
DF60, DF70 55 40 -
Bearing carrier
DF9.9, DF15, DF25, DF30 8 - 71
DF40, DF50 17 12 -
DF60, DF70 10 - 88
Pinion nut
DF25, DF30 18 13 -
DF40, DF50 50 37 -
DF60, DF70 70 52 -
TABLE 2 SHIM SPECIFICATIONS

Pinioniforward gear backlash
DF9.9, DF15, DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50 0.1-0.2 mm (0.004-0.008 in.)
DF60, DF70 0.2-0.4 mm (0.008-0.016 in.)
Propeller shaft thrust play 0.2-0.4 mm (0.008-0.016 in.)
TABLE 3 CLUTCH SPRING LENGTH

DF9.9, DF15 68-70 mm (2.677-2.756 in.)
DF25, DF30 56.5-58.5 mm (2.22-2.30 in.)
DF40, DF50 60-62 mm (2.362-2.440 in.)
DFBO. DF70 54-67 mm (2.520-2.637 in.)
Chapter Ten
Manual Starter
This chapter provides replacement and repair proce- As the rope is released, the starter spring unwinds, caus-
dures for the manual starter. Cleaning, inspection and lu- ing the sheave to rotate counterclockwise. Counterclock-
brication of the internal components are necessary if the wise rotation of the sheave causes the drive pawl spring
manual starter does not engage properly or the starter (8, Figure 1) to contact and pivot the drive pawl (1 1) away
binds when activated. from the starter pulley. The manual starter is then released
from the flywheel.
The neutral-only start mechanism (1, Figure 1) pre-
MANUAL STARTER vents the flywheel from rotating when the engine is in for-
ward or reverse gear. The gear shift linkage on the engine
operates this cable actuated lockout mechanism. Adjust-
Operation
ment is required when any components of the mechanism
are changed or disturbed. Refer to Chapter Five for adjust-
The manual starter mounts to the top of the power head ment instructions.
directly above the flywheel. It also serves as the flywheel
cover and houses the timing pointer. Pulling the rope (3,
Figure 1) rotates the sheave (7), causing the drive pawl
(1 1) to pivot and engage the starter pulley or bosses on the
flywheel. This causes the flywheel to rotate with the Use the standard torque specifications for all fasteners.
sheave. As the sheave rotates, the starter spring (6) winds Standard torque specifications are listed in the Quick Ref-
within the rewind housing (5). erence Data section at the front of the manual. Mark all
342 CHAPTER TEN
MANUAL STARTER ASSEMBLY

(TYPICAL)
1. Neutral-only start mechanism

2. Rope guide
3. Rope
4. Handle
5. Rewind housing
6. Starter spring
7. Sheave
8. Drive pawl spring
9. Bushing
10. Circlip
11. Drive pawl
ANUAL STARTER 343
conlponent mounting locations and orientation prior to

ren~oval.Refer to tlie instructions for the selected model.

Remove the spark plugs and ground the spark plug leads.
2. Loosen the neutral start cable adjusting nuts (Figure 2)
and slidc the cable (Figure 3) from the shift linkage
bracket. Disconnect the cable end from the shift linkage.
Manual starter
3. Re~iiovethe four mounting bolts (Figure 3) and lift the
manual starter assembly from the engine.
4. Align the four mounting bolt holes with the cone-
sponding openings on the power head. Install and se-
curely tighten the mounting bolts (Figure 3).
5. Connect the cable end to the shift linkage. Guide the
neutral-only start cable into the slot provided in the shift
linkage bracket. Adjust the neutral-only stast cable as dc-
scribed in Chapter Five. Securely tighten the cable nuts
(Figure 2).
6. Install the spark p l ~ ~ and
g s leads. Connect the negative
battely cable.
7. Check for proper operation of the nianual starter and
the neutral-only start mechanism.

Remove tlie spark plugs and ground the spark plug leads.
2. Loosen the adjusting nuts for the neutral-only stast ca-
ble (Figure 4). Slip the cable from the slot provided in the
manual starter.
3. Remove the cable end from the slot provided in the
shift linkage.
4. Remove the three bolts holding the manual starter to
the power head (Figure 5). Lift the manual starter assem-
bly from the power head.
344 CHAPTER TEN
ANUAL STARTER
F9.9 AND DF15 MODELS
1. Stopper arm
2. Spring
3. Cotter pin
4. Washer
5. Stopper lever
6. Neutral-only start cable
7. Manual starter housing
8. Rope guide
9. Handle
10. Bolt
11. E-clip
12. Drive pawl
13. Spring link
14. Spring
15. Washer
16. Sheave retaining bok
17. Friction plate
18. Friction spring
19. Sheave
20. Rope
21. Starter spring
5. Align the three mounting bolt holes with the corre- Clean all components, except the rope, in solvent suit-
sponding openings on the power head. Instal1 and se- able for composite or plastic components. Dry the coinpo-
curely tighten the mounting bolts (Figure 5). nents with compressed air immediately after cleaning.
6. Connect the cable end to the shift linkage. Guide the Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease (part No.
neutral-only start cable into the slot provided in the man- 99000-25610) to all bushing, drive pawl, spring and pivot
ual starter housing (Figure 4). Adjust the neutral only surfaces. Also apply grease to the starter spring and its
start cable as described in Chapter Five. Securely tighten contact surfaces inside the starter housing.
the cable adjusting nuts. Apply Three bond 1342 (part No. 99000-32050) to the
7. Install the spark plugs and leads. Connect the negative threaded portion of the sheave retaining bolt during as-
batte~ycable. sembly.
8. Check for proper operation of the manual staster and Tighten all fasteners to the standard torque specifica-
the neutral-only start mechanism. tions. Mark all component mounting locations and orien-
tation prior to removal. Refer to the instructions f o the
~
selected model.
Repair
CA UTION
When seivicir~gthe manual statatei;wear eye
If starter rope replacement is necessary, replace the rope protection, gloves and adeqziate covering
with one that is specifically designed for the outboard. over all exposed portions of the L m l y . The
Other types may not withstand the rigorous use and fail. starter spring may unexpectedly release
konz the housing with considerable force
and result in bodily injury.
NOTE
Remove the starter spring (21, Figzwe 6,
typical) from the rewind housiizg oidy if it
must be replaced. Inspect the spring as de-
scribed in this chapter to determine the need
.for replacement.
Disussem bly
(DF9.9 and DF15 models)
1. Remove the ~nanualstaster as described in this chapter.

Place the ~nanualstarter on a sturdy work surface wit11 the
top side down.
2. Hold the sheave (19, Figure 6) to prevent rotation and
untie the knot at the handle end of the rope. Remove the
handle (9, Figure 6) from the rope and direct the rope out
of the rope guide (8).
3. Place the rope into the notch on the sheave as shown in
Figure 7. Ensure the rope remains in the notch during this
step. While maintaining downward pressure, allow the
sheave to slowly rotate clockwise until all spring tension is
relieved.
4. Support the rewind housing and remove the bolt (Fig-
ure 8). Lift the drive plate and friction spring (Figure 9)
from the sheave.
5 . Insest a screwdriver (Figure 10) into the hole in the
sheave. Ensure the screwdriver makes good contact with
the starter spring (21, Figure 6). Hold the spring into the
~nanualstarter housing with the screwdriver and carefully
lift the sheave from the manual staster housing. Loosen
the knot and remove the rope from the sheave.
346 CHAPTER TEN
6. Remove the E-clip (11, Figure 6) and lift the drive

pawl, spring link and spring (12-14, Figure 6) from the
sheave (19).
7. Inspect the staster spring (21, Figure 6) for cossoded,
distorted or cracked surfaces. Remove the spring only if it
is defective as follows:
a. Note the direction the spring winds into the rewind
housing (Figure 11) prior to removing it.
b. Wear eye protection, heavy gloves and protective
clothing when removing the spring, place a heavy
piece of cloth or towel over the spring to help con-
tain the spring.
c. Pull one loop of the spring at a time from the ~ O L I S -
ing (Figure 12).
8. Remove the cotter pin from the stopper lever (Figure
13). Lifl the washer (4, Figure 61, lever (5) and spring (2)
from the housing (7). Pull the cable end from the recess on
the stopper lever (Figure 13).
9. Remove the stopper a m from the housing (Figure 14).
Remove the bolt (10, Figure 6) and remove the rope g ~ ~ i d e
(8) from the housing.
10. Inspect a11 components for wosn or damaged surfaccs
and replace them if any defects are noted. Pay pasticular
attention to the staster spring. Inspect the entire length of
the spring for cracks or other defects. Inspect the entire
length of rope for wosn, cut or frayed surfaces. Replace all
defective or suspect components.
Assembly
(DF9.9 and DFl5 nzodels)
1. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to the manual

staster housing at the starter spring contact surfaces.
2. Place the hooked end ofthe stafer spring over the tab
in the housing. Wind the starter spring into the housing
ANUAL STARTER 347
(Figure 12) counterclockwise one loop at a time until the

entire length of the spring is installed.
3. Lubricate the pivot point with grease and slide the
Drive pawl
stopper arm into the manual starter housing (Figure 14).
Ensure the stopper am1 pin protrudes through the inanual
starter housing as indicated in Figure 15. Install the
spring (2, Figure 6) onto the housing as indicated in Fig-
ure 15.
4. Position the stopper lever (5, Figure 6) and washer (4)
over the stopper arm pin. Align the holes then install thc
cotter pin (Figure 13) Bend over both ends of the cotter
pin.
5. Lubricate the pivot point with grease and place the
drive pawl into its opening in the sheave (Figure 16). In-
stall the E-clip (I 1 , Figure 6) onto the groove of the drive
pawl pivot. Connect the spring link and spring (13 and 14,
Figure 6) to the post on the drive pawl (12) and sheave
(19).
6. Position the rope guide (8, Figure 6) onto the housing
(7) and secure with the bolt (10).
7. Guide the rope (20, Figure 6) through the rope guide
and into its corresponding hole in the sheave (19). Tie a
s~~itable knot in the end of the rope and position the knot
into the recess in the sheave (Figure 17). Ensure the knot
does not protmde from the recess.
8. Align the hooked end of the starter spring with the
groove on the sheave (Figure 18) and place the sheave
into the ~nanualstarter housing.
9. Rotate the sheave slightly counterclockwise to check
for spring engagement. Spring engagement is indicated if
resistance is felt. Repeat Step 8 and 9 until spring engage-
ment is indicated.
10. Slip the tip of the friction spring (18, Figure 6) into
the opening in the spring link (13). Place the friction plate
( I 7, Figure 6) onto the sheave ( I 9) with the concave side
348 CHAPTER TEN
facing out. The friction spring must fit over the diameter
of the friction plate. Rotate the friction plate to align the
hole with the square protrusion on the sheave.
11. Apply ThreeBond 1342 (Suzuki part No. 99000-
32050) to the threads ofthe bolt (16, Figure 6). Install and
securely tighten the bolt.
12. Place the rope into the notch as indicated in Figure
19. Hold the rope in this position and rotate the sheave
counterclockwise, as viewed from the open end, five com-
plete turns.
13. Hold the sheave to prevent rotation and route the end
of the rope through the rope guide and handle. Tie a suit-
able knot (Figure 20) in the rope near the handle, then
trim away the excess rope. Place the knot into the recess in
the handle. Release the rope from the notch.
14. Pivot the stopper lever (5, Figure 6) away from the
housing and place the end of the cable (6) into its slot in
the lever. Apply grease to the spring end of the cable and
position the cable into its recess in the housing.
15. Install the manual starter as described in this chapter. Leave 114-112 in. reserve
length at end of rope
Disassembly
(DF25 and DF30 models)
1. Remove the manual starter as described in this chapter.

Place the manual starter on a sturdy work surface with the
top side down.
2. Hold the sheave (8, Figure 21) to prevent rotation and
untie the knot at the handle end of the rope. Remove the
handle (2 1, Figure 21) from the rope and direct the rope
out of the guide.
3. Place the rope into the notch on the sheave as shown in
Figure 7. Ensure the rope remains in the notch during this
step. While maintaining downward pressure, allow the a. Note the direction the spring winds into the rewind
sheave to slowly rotate clockwise until all spring tension is housing (Figure 11) prior to removing it.
relieved. b. Wear eye protection, heavy gloves and protective
4. Support the rewind housing and remove the bolt (Fig- clothing when removing the spring, place a heavy
ure 8). Lift the drive plate and friction spring (Figure 9) piece of cloth or towel over the spring to help con-
from the sheave. tain the spring.
5. Insert a screwdriver (Figure 10) into the hole in the c. Pull one loop of the spring at a time from the hous-
sheave. Ensure the screwdriver makes good contact with ing (Figure 12).
the starter spring (7, Figure 21). Hold the spring into the 8. Pull up on the cable (1, Figure 21) to remove it from
manual starter housing with the screwdriver and carefully the recess in the housing. Unhook the cable end from the
lift the sheave from the manual starter housing. Loosen spring (5, Figure 21). Remove the spring from the hous-
the knot and remove the rope from the sheave. ing.
6. Remove the E-clip (15, Figure 21) and lift the drive 9. Remove the spring (2, Figure 21) then lift the stopper
pawl, link and spring (12-14, Figure 21) from the sheave arm from the housing (Figure 14). Remove the bolt (1 7,
(8). Figure 21) then lift the rope guide roller, sleeve and
7. Inspect the starter spring (7, Figure 21) for corroded, washer (1 8-20) from the housing.
distorted or cracked surfaces. Remove the spring only if it 10. Inspect all components for worn or damaged surfaces
is defective as follows: and replace them if any defects are noted. Pay particular
MANUAL STARTER 349
MANUAL STARTER
1. Neutral-only start 11. Bolt

cable 12. Spring
2. Spring 13. Spring link
3. Stopper arm 14. Drive pawl
4. Bolt 15. E-clip
5. Spring 16. Rope
6. Manual starter housing 17. Bolt
7. Starter spring 18. Washer
8. Sheave 19. Sleeve
9. Friction spring 20. Rope guide roller
10. Friction plate 21. Handle
350 CHAPTER TEN
attention to the starter spring. Inspect the entire length of 7. Position the rope guide roller, sleeve and washer
the spring for cracks or other defects. Inspect the entire (18-20, Figure 21) onto the housing (6) and secure with
length of rope for worn, cut or frayed surfaces. Replace all the bolt (17).
defective or suspect components. 8. Guide the rope (16, Figure 21) through the rope guide
and into its corresponding hole in the sheave (8). Tie a
suitable knot in the end of the rope and position the knot
Assembly into the recess in the sheave (Figure 17). Ensure the knot
(Dm5a11dDF3O models) does not protrude from the recess.
9. Align the hooked end of the starter spring with the
groove on the sheave (Figure 18) and place the sheave
1. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to the manual into the manual starter housing.
starter housing at the starter spring contact surfaces. 10. Rotate the sheave slightly counterclockwise to check
2. Place the hooked end of the starter spring over the tab for spring engagement. Spring engagement is indicated if
in the housing. Wind the starter spring into the housing resistance is felt.
(Figure 12) counterclockwise one loop at a time until the 11. Repeat Steps 9 and 10 until spring engagement is in-
entire length of the spring is installed. dicated.
12. Slip the tip of the friction spring (9, Figure 21) into
3. Lubricate the pivot point with grease and slide the the opening in the spring link (13). Place the friction plate
stopper arm into the manual starter housing. Ensure the (10, Figure 21) onto the sheave (8) with the concave side
pivot end of the stopper fits securely through the opening facing out. The friction spring must fit over the diameter
at the top of the housing. of the friction plate. Rotate the friction plate to align the
4. Install the spring (2, Figure 21) onto the housing pin. hole with the square protrusion on the sheave.
The longer end of the spring must fit against the tab on the 13. Apply ThreeBond 1342 (Suzuki part No. 99000-
housing. 32050) to the threads of the bolt (1 1, Figure 21). Install
and securely tighten the bolt.
5. Hook the cable onto the spring (5, Figure 21). Connect 14. Place the rope into the notch as indicated in Figure
the other end of the spring onto the housing pin. Carefully 19. Hold the rope in this position and rotate the sheave
press the cable (1, Figure 21) into the recess in the hous- counterclochwi.se, as viewed from the open end, five com-
ing. plete turns.
6. Lubricate the pivot point with grease and place the 15. Hold the sheave to prevent rotation and route the end
drive pawl into the opening in the sheave (Figure 16). In- of the rope through the rope guide and handle. Tie a suit-
stall the E-clip (15, Figure 21) onto the groove of the able knot (Figure 20) in the rope near the handle, then
drive pawl pivot. Connect the spring link and spring (12 trim away the excess rope. Place the knot into the recess in
and 13, Figure 21) to the drive pawl post (14) and sheave the handle. Release the rope from the notch.
(8). 16. Install the manual starter as described in this chapter.
Chapter Eleven
Hydraulic Trim and Midsection
TRIM SYSTEM may collapse and cause the engine to

abruptly drop. Support the engine with
This section provides instructions for checking, filling blocks or and overhead cable before work-
and bleeding air from the power trim system. Removal ing under the engine.
and installation of external mounted components and
electric trim motor repair instructions are also included.
WARNING
Repairs to the hydraulic cylinders require special tools The trim system contains fluid under high
and some practical experience in hydraulic system re- pressure. Always wear eye protection and
pairs. Have the cylinder(s) repaired at a marine repair fa- gloves while working with the trim system.
cility if these tools and experience are not available. Never remove any components or plugs
Table 1 provides torque specifications for hydraulic without first bleeding the pressure from the
trim and midsection components. Use the standard torque system. Slowly open the manual relief valve
specifications for fasteners not listed in Table 1. Standard and fluid reservoir cap or plug to bleed
torque specifications are listed in the Quick Reference pressure from the system.
Data section at the front of the manual. Table 2 provides
wear limit specification for the electric trim motor. Tables CA UTION
1 and 2 are located at the end of this chapter. The trim system fluid must be clean. A small
amount of contamination can cause damage
WARNING to the trim system. Thoroughly clean the
Never work under any part of the engine trim system external surfaces with soapy
without providing suitable support. The en- water: Use compressed air to dry the trim
gine-mounted tilt lock or hydraulic system system.
352 CHAPTER ELEVEN
Work in a clean area and use lint-free towels to wipe

components after removal. Cover any openings immedi-
ately after removal to prevent contamination of the fluid.
Fluid Level Inspection
Check and correct the trim system fluid level if low

fluid level is suspected of causing system malfunction.
Use Dexron or Dexron I1 automatic transmission fluid
(ATF) in all systems covered in this manual. Other types
of automatic transmission fluid may not be compatible
with the seals or other components in the system.
Checking the fluid level requires access to the manual
relief valve (Figure 1). On DF25 and DF30 models, ac-
cess the valve through an opening on the starboard side
clamp bracket. On all other models the opening is located
on the port side clamp bracket. Use an overhead lift (Fig-
ure 2) or other method to support the engine while check-
ing and filling the fluid level.
Easy access to the fill plug or cap is possible only with
the engine in the full up position. Refer to the following
information to help you locate the fill cap, fill plug and oil
level plug.
On DF25 and DF30 models, the fill cap and fluid level
plug is located on the rear side of the fluid reservoir (Fig-
ure 3).
On DF40 and DF50 models, the fill and oil level plug is
located on the side of the lower and rear side of the fluid
reservoir (Figure 4).
On DF60 and DF70 n~odels,the fill cap is located on the
aft side of the fluid reservoir (Figure 5).
Use a wooden block or an overhead cable (Figure 2) to
secure the engine when checking the trim system fluid
level. The fluid in the reservoir may be under pressure.
Always remove the plug or cap slowly to release any pres-
sure. Fluid fill cap
\
1. Operate the trimltilt system or open the manual relief
valve and move the engine to the fully UP position. Se-
curely tighten the manual relief valve, if opened.
2. Secure the engine in position with an overhead cable or
blocks (Figure 2). Use compressed air to clean all debris
from the fill cap or plug area. Place a suitable container
under the trim system to catch any spilled fluid.
3. Slowly remove the fill cap andlor plug from the rescr-
voi1-.
4. Carefully clean all debris from the cap or plug mount-
ing surface and make sure debris does not enter the fluid
reservoir.
5. Note the fluid level.
a. 011 DF25 and DF30 models, the fluid level must be
even with the bottom of the oil level plug opening.
HYDRAULIC TRIM AND MIDSECTION 353
move the fill cap or plug as described in Fluid Level

Inspection.
3. Fill the fluid reservoir to the lower edge of the cap or
plug opening. Install and tighten the fill cap or plug. Close
the manual relief valve. Remove the supports and disen-
gage the tilt lock lever.
4. Cycle the trim to the full DOWN position. Note the
sound ofthe system while operating the trim system in the
up direction. Stop immediately if the pump ventilates
(speeds up). Continued operation results in air in the sys-
tem.
5. If ventilation occurs, open the manual relief valve and
position the engine in the full UP position. Repeat Steps 11
2-4 until the trim system reaches the full up position.
b. On DF40 and DF50 models, the fluid level must be Cheek and correct the fluid level as described in Fluid
even with the bottom of the oil level plug opening. Level Inspection.
c. On DF60 and DF70 models, the fluid level must be
even with the bottom of the fill plug opening.
Bleeding
6. Add fluiduntil it is even with the bottom of the fill plug
or cap opening (Figure 6). Install and securely tighten the
A spongy feel or inability to hold trim under load is a
fill cap and oil level plug (DF25 and DF30 models).
common symptom of air in the system. In many cases, the
7. Remove the overhead cable or supporting blocks and engine tucks under if power is applied and tilts out if the
lower the engine. Run the trim system to the fully UP and throttle is reduced. Minor amounts or air in the system
fully DOWN positions several times to purge air from the purge into the fluid reservoir during normal operation.
system. Repeat Steps 1-5 if more than 2 oz. (59 ml) of Large amounts of air enter the system when major compo-
fluid was added to the system. nents are replaced or if the pump is operated with low
fluid level.
Fluid Filling 1. Use the power trim system or open the manual relief
valve then position the engine in the full UP position.
Perform this procedure to correct the fluid level if re- 2. Engage the tilt lock level then support the engine with
placing the manual relief valve, hydraulic pump or fluid blocks or an overhead cable (Figure 2). Locate then re-
reservoir. Use Dexron I1 automatic transmission fluid in move the fill cap or plug as described in Fluid Level In-
all trim systems covered in this manual. spection.
1. Use the power trim system or open the manual relief 3. Fill the fluid reservoir to the lower edge of the cap or
valve then position the engine in the full up position. plug opening. Install and tighten the fill cap or plug. Re-
2. Engage the tilt lock level then support the engine with move the supports and disengage the tilt lock lever. Place
blocks or an overhead cable (Figure 2). Locate then re- the engine in the full DOWN position.
354 CHAPTER ELEVEN
4. Operate the trim system in the UP direction. Stop im-

mediately if the hydraulic pump ventilates (speeds up).
Open the manual relief valve and position the engine fully
UP. Support the engine and correct the fluid level as de-
scribed in Step 3.
5. Repeat Step 4 until the engine reaches the full UP posi-
tion without ventilating the pump. If foam is present in the
fluid reservoir, allow the engine to sit for one hour and re-
peat the process.
6. Cycle the trim system up and down several times to
purge any remaining air from the system. Refer to Fluid
Level Inspection to make the final fluid level correction.
a. Ensure the bolt (8, Figure 8) aligns with the recess
Gas Assisted Tilt System in the valve shaft. Securely tighten the bolt and jam
nut (9, Figure 8).
This section provides removal and installation instruc- b. Apply a good water resistant grease to the pivot
tions for the gas assist tilt system used on DF25, DF30, points of all pins and bushings during assen~bly.
DF40 and DF50 models. Repair to this system is limited c. Apply thread locking agent 1342 (Suzuki part No.
to replacing the tilt release lever. The manufacturer pro- 99000-32050) to the threads of the lower mounting
vides no parts or repair instructions. If the system is defec- bolts (1 and 6, Figure 8). Install then tighten the
tive it must be replaced. Refer to the removal and bolts to the specification in Table 1.
installation instructions for the selected model. d. Tighten the tilt tube nut as described in Midsection.
e. Install the circlips (10 and 15, Figure 8) fully into
the grooves of the upper pin (13).
DF25 and DF30 models 8. Remove the overhead support and disengage the tilt
lock lever. Place the tilt control level in the released posi-
1 . Disconnect the negative battery cable. Place the tilt tion. Move the engine to the full UP and DOWN position.
control level in the released position. Place the engine in Check for improperly installed components if binding oc-
the full UP position. curs.
2. Engage the tilt lock level then support the engine with 9. Securely tighten all engine mounting bolts. Connect
blocks or an overhead cable (Figure 2). the negative battery cable.
3 Using appropriate snap ring pliers (Figure 7), care-
fully remove both circlips (10 and 15, Figure 8) from the
upper cylinder pin (1 3). Using a section of tubing or steel
rod, carefully drive the pin from the cylinder. Loosen both 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Place the tilt
engine mounting thumb screws and any other engine control level in the released position. Place the engine in
mounting bolts. the full UP position.
4. Support the assist cylinder while removing both 2. Engage the tilt lock level then support the engine with
mounting bolts (1 and 6, Figure 8). Refer to Midsection to blocks or an overhead cable (Figure 2).
locate the tilt tube nut. Loosen the nut until the clamp 3. Using appropriate snap ring pliers (Figure 7), care-
brackets separate slightly. Spread the brackets apart fully remove both circlips (3 and 7, Figure 9) from the up-
enough to pull the cylinder, lower pin and bushings from per cylinder pin (6). Using a section or tubing of steel rod,
the engine. carefully drive the pin from the cylinder.
5. Loosen the jam nut (9, Figure 8) then back the bolt (8) 4. Remove the nut and washer (13 and 14, Figure 9) from
out enough to slip the tilt lever (7) from the cylinder valve the clamp bracket. Support the cylinder while removing
shaft. the lower mounting bolt (9, Figure 9).
6. Inspect all pins, bushings, bolts and circlips (Figure 8) 5. Refer to Midsection to locate the tilt tube nut. Loosen
for worn or damaged surfaces. Replace any worn or sus- the nut until the clamp brackets separate slightly. Remove
pect components. both starboard side engines mounting bolts. Spread the
7. Installation is the reverse of removal while noting the brackets apart enough to pull the cylinder, lower pin and
following: bushings from the engine.
GAS ASSIST TILT SYSTEM

1. Lower mounting 8. Bolt

bolts 9. Jam nut
2. Collar 10. Circlip
3. Bushing 11. Bushing
4. Pin 12. Tilt cylinder
5. Bushing 13. Pin
6. Lower mounting 14. Bushing
bolts 15. Circlip
7. Tilt lever
356 CHAPTER ELEVEN
GAS ASSIST TILT SYSTEM

1. Grip 9. Lower mounting bolt

2. Lever 10. Bushing
3. Circlip 11. Bushing
4. Bushing 12. Pin
5. Bushing 13. Washer
6. Pin 14. Nut
7. Circlip 15. Bolt
8. Tilt cylinder 16. Nut
b. Apply a good water resistant grease to the pivot

points of all pins and bushings during assembly.
c. Apply marine grade silicone sealant to the engine
mounting bolt opening in the boat transom. Install
then securely tighten the starboard side engine
mounting bolts.
d. Tighten the tilt tube nut as described in Midsection.
e. Install the circlips (3 and 7, Figure 9) fully into the
grooves of the upper pin (6).
9. Remove the overhead support and disengage the tilt lock
lever. Place the tilt control level in the released position.
Move the engine to the full UP and DOWN position. Check
for improperly installed components if binding occurs.
Trim System
This section provides removal and installation instructions

for the power trim system. Refer to the wiring diagrams at
the end of the manual to assist with wire connection points.
Refer to the instructions for the selected model.
DF25 a71d DF3O models
1. Turn the manual relief valve 3-4 turns counterclock-

wise then manually raise the engine to the full UP posi-
tion. Securely tighten the manual relief valve. Engage the
tilt lock level (Figure 10) then support the engine with
blocks or an overhead cable (Figure 2).
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Locate and dis-
connect the larger diameter blue and green wires from the
trim relays (Figure 11). Route the disconnected wires out
of the lower engine cover.
3. Using appropriate snap ring pliers (Figure 7), care-
fully remove both circlips from the upper cylinder pin.
Using a section or tubing of steel rod, carefully drive the
pin from the cylinder and clamp brackets.
6. Remove the lever (2, Figure 9) only if it must be re- wise then manually push the cylinder ram down into the
placed. Loosen the bolt and nut (15 and 16, Figure 9) then cylinder. Securely tighten the manual relief valve.
carefully pull the lever fron~the valve shaft. 5. Support the trim system and remove the lower trim
7. Inspect all pins, bushings, bolts and circlips (Figure 9) system bolts (Figure 12) from each clamp bracket.
for worn or damaged surfaces. Replace any worn or sus- 6. Refer to Midsection to locate the tilt tube nut. Loosen
pect components. the nut until the clamp brackets separate slightly. Remove
the side engine mounting bolts from the clamp brackets.
8. Installation is the reverse of removal while noting the Spread the clamp brackets enough to pull the trim system
following: fro111 the engine.
a. Align the punch mark on the lever (2, Figure 9) 7. Inspect all trim system mounting pins, bushings, bolts
with the mark on the valve shaft. Securely tighten and circlips for worn or damaged surfaces. Replace any
the bolt and nut (1 5 and 16, Figure 9). worn or suspect conlponents.
358 CHAPTER ELEVEN
8. Installation is the reverse of removal while noting the 6. Refer to Midsection and locate the tilt tube nut. Loosen
following: the nut until the clamp brackets separate slightly. Remove
Apply a good water resistant grease to the pivot the side engine mounting bolts from the clamp brackets.
points of all pins and bushings during assembly. Spread the clamp brackets enough to pull the trim system
Apply Suzuki thread lock 1342 (part No. and lower bushing from the engine.
99000-32050) to the threads of the lower trim sys- 7. Inspect all trim system mounting pins, bushings. bolts
tem mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to the specifi- and circlips for worn or damaged surfaces. Replace any
cation listed in Table 1. worn or suspect components.
Apply marine grade silicone sealant to the engine 8. Installation is the reverse of removal while noting the
mounting bolt opening in the boat transom. Install following:
then securely tighten the starboard side engine Apply a good water resistant grease to the pivot
mounting bolts and nuts. points of all pins and bushings during assembly.
Tighten the tilt tube nut as described in Midsection. Tighten the lower trim system mounting bolt and
Open the n~anualrelief valve and manually extend t the specification in Table 1. Install the tilt pin
n ~ ito
the ram to align the upper pin bores. Push the upper to the clamp bracket holes noted prior to removal.
pin into position using an appropriately sized sec- Securely tighten the tilt pin.
tion of tubing or steel rod. Install the circlips fully Apply marine grade silicone sealant to the engine
into the grooves of the upper pin. mounting bolt opening in the boat transom. Install
Route the wires to avoid interference then connect then securely tighten the starboard side engine
the blue and green wires to the relays. mounting bolts and nuts.
9. Remove the overhead support and disengage the tilt Tighten the tilt tube nut as described in Midsection.
lock lever. Connect the negative cable. Check and fill the Open the manual relief valve and manually extend
trim fluid level as described in this chapter. the ram to align the upper pin bores. Push the upper
10. Cycle the trim system to the full UP and DOWN posi- pin into position with an appropriately sized section
tion. Check for improperly installed components if binding of tubing or steel rod. Install the circlips fully into
occurs. the grooves of the upper pin.
Route the wires to avoid interference then connect
the blue and green wires to the relays.
9. Remove the overhead support and disengage the tilt
1. Turn the manual relief valve 3-4 turns counterclock- lock lever. Connect the negative battery cable. Check and
wise then manually raise the engine to the full UP posi- fill the trim fluid level as described in this chapter.
tion. Securely tighten the manual relief valve. Engage the 10. Cycle the trim system to the full UP and DOWN posi-
tilt lock level (Figure 10) then support the engine with tion. Check for improperly installed con~ponentsif bind-
blocks or an overhead cable (Figure 2). ing occurs.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Locate and dis-
connect the larger diameter blue and green wires from the DF60 and DF70 models
trim relays (Figure 11). Route the disconnected wires out
of the lower engine cover. 1. Turn the manual relief valve 3-4 turns counterclock-
3. Using appropriate snap ring pliers (Figure 7), care- wise then manually raise the engine to the full UP posi-
fully remove both circlips from the upper cylinder pin. tion. Securely tighten the manual relief valve. Engage the
Using a section of tubing or steel rod, carefully drive the tilt lock lever (Figure 10) then support the engine with
pin from the cylinder and clamp brackets. blocks or an overhead cable (Figure 2).
4. Turn the manual relief valve 3-4 turns c0~1ntercloc1~- 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the
wise then manually push the cylinder ram down into the electrical components cover from the front and starboard
cylinder. Securely tighten the manual relief valve. Mark side of the power head. Locate and disconnect the larger
or note the tilt pin mounting holes in the clamp brackets. diameter blue and green wires from the trim relays (Fig-
Loosen the nut then remove the tilt pin. ure 11). Route the disconnected wires out of the lower en-
5. Remove the trim system mounting nut on the lower gine cover.
port side clamp bracket. Support the trim system then pull 3. Using appropriate snap ring pliers (Figure 7), care-
the lower trim system mounting bolt from the lower star- fully remove both circlips (1 6 and 2 1, Figure 13) from the
board side clamp bracket. upper cylinder pin (17). Using a section of tubing or steel
HYDRAULIC TRIM SYSTEM

DF60 AND OF70 MODELS
1. Circlip 10. Floating piston 19. Tilt ram 29. Circlip

2. Bushing 11. O-ring 20. Busing 30. Bushing
3. Lower mounting 12. Tilt cylinder cap 21. Circlip 31. Filter
pin 13. Striker plate 22. Tilt cylinder cap 32. Hydraulic pump
4. O-ring 14. Washer 23. O-ring 33. Bolt
5. Trim manifold 15. Nut 24. O-ring 34. Manual relief
6. O-ring 16. Circlip 25. Fill cap valve
7. Trim tab 17. Upper mounting 26. Fluid reservoir 35. Bolt
8. O-ring pin 27. Bolt
9. Backing washer 18. Bushing 28. O-ring
360 CHAPTER ELEVEN
rod, carefully drive the pin from the cylinder and clamp
brackets.
wise then nlanually push the tilt cylinder ram (19, Figure
13) down into the cylinder. Securely tighten the manual
relief valve.
5. Using appropriate snap ring pliers (Figure 14), care-
fully remove both circlips (1 and 29, Figure 13). Support
the trim system while removing the lower mounting pin.
Using an appropriately sized section of tubing or steel rod
(Figure 15), carefully drive the pin (3, Figure 13) from
the clamp brackets and trim system.
6. Pull the trim system back and away from the clamp
brackets. Inspect all trim system mounting pins, bushings,
bolts and circlips for worn or damaged surfaces. Replace
any worn or suspect components.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal while noting the
following:
a. Apply a good water resistant grease to the pivot
points of all pins and bushings during assembly.
b. Align the lower mounting pin bores and carefully
drive the lower pin into the trim system and clamp
brackets. The lower pin must protrude evenly on
each side of the clamp brackets.
c. Open the manual relief valve and manually extend
the tilt ram (19, Figure 13) to align the upper pin
bores. Push the upper pin into position with an ap-
propriately sized section of tubing or steel rod.
d. Install the circlips fully into the grooves of the up-
per and lower mounting pins.
e. Route the trim motor wires to avoid interference
then connect the blue and green wires to the relays.
8. Remove the overhead support and disengage the tilt
lock lever. Connect the negative battery cable. Check and lever and support the engine with blocks or an overhead
fill the trim fluid level as described in this chapter. cable (Figure 2). Disconnect the negative battery cable.
9. Cycle the trim system to the full UP and DOWN posi- 2. Use needle nose pliers, remove the circlip from the
tion. Check for improperly installed components if bind- valve opening. Rotate the valve in the open direction until
ing occurs. free from its bore. Pull the valve from the opening.
3. Use a pick, small screwdriver andlor tweezers to re-
move all remnants of the valve or O-ring from the open-
Manual Relief Valve
ing.
This section provides removal and installation instmc- 4. Lubricate the valve with Dexron I1 automatic trans-
tions For the manual relief valve. Access the valve through mission fluid and carefully slide the O-rings (if removed)
an opening (Figure 1) in the starboard side clamp bracket. onto the valve. Ensure that the O-rings fully seat into their
On DF25 and DF30 models, the opening is located in the respective grooves on the valve.
starboard side clamp bracket. On all other models the 5. Lubricate the O-rings and valve with Dexron I1 auto-
opening is located on the port side clamp bracket. Use an matic transmission fluid and install the valve into the
o ,si head lift or other method (Figure 2) to support the en- opening. Do not tighten the valve at this time.
ginc while replacing the manual relief valve. 6. Rotate the valve in the closed direction until slight re-
1. Operate the trim system or open the manual relief sistance is felt. Rotate the valve 114 turn in the closed di-
valve to position the engine full UP. Engage the tilt lock rection, then 118 turn in the open direction. Repeat this

@ 1. Mount the system in the upright position. Mark the
ELECTRIC TRIM MOTOR mating surfaces of the trim system and electric motor to
ensure correct orientation on assembly.
2. Remove the fluid fill cap (Figure 3) then pour the fluid
from the trim system.
3. Remove both alien bolts then lift the fluid reservoir
from the trim system.
4. Lift the trim motor and O-ring from the trim system.
5. Note which side is facing up, then remove the drive
coupler from the hydraulic pump shaft.
1. Mount the system in the upright position. Mark the

mating surfaces of the trim system and electric motor to
2. Remove the fluid fill plug (Figure 4) as described in
Fluid Level Inspection. Pour the trim fluid from the i-eser-
voir.
3. Remove the four screws that retain the trim motor to
the trim pump.
4. Lift the trim motor and O-ring from the trim system.
5. Note which side is facing up, then remove the drive
1. Manual relief valve coupler from the hydraulic pump shaft.
2. Bolt
3. Electric motor 1
4. O-ring DF60 and DF70 models
5. Filter
6. Drive coupler
I . Mount the system in the upright position. Mark the
mating surfaces of the trim system and electric motor to
2. Remove the fluid fill cap (Figure 5) as described in
Fluid Level Inspection. Pour the trim fluid from the reser-
voir.
process until the valve fully seats. Tighten the valve to the
specification in Table 1. 3. Remove the four bolts (2, Figure 16) that retain the
trim motor (3) to thc trim pump.
7. Use needle nose pliers to install the circlip into the
4. Lift the trim motor (3, Figure 16) and O-ring (4) from
groove in the valve opening. Disengage the tilt lock lever
the trim pump.
and remove the overhead support.
5. Note the Filter (5, Figure 16) direction or placement on
8. Connect the negative battery cable. Check and correct the pump and carefully pull it from the trim pump open-
the fluid level as described in this chapter. ing. Use a mild solvent to clean contaminants from the I'll-
ter. Use compressed air to dry the filter.
Trim Motor Removal 6. Note which side is lacing up, then remove the drive
coupler (6, Figure 16) from the hydraulic pump shaft.
Refer to Trim System in this chapter, and remove the
complete trim system. Secure the trim system in a bench Trim Motor Disassembly
vise with padded jaws. Make a sketch of the electric motor
wire harness routing before removal. Thoroughly clean Work in a clean environment to avoid contaminating
the trim system area before removing any components. the internal components of the trim system. Use electrical
Refer to the instructions for the selected model. contact cleaner to clean the electric motor components.
362 CHAPTER ELEVEN
@ IM MOTOR COMPONENTS
Electrical contact cleaner is available at most electrical
supply sources. It evaporates rapidly and leaves no resi-
due. Avoid touching the brushes and commutator after
cleaning; naturally occurring oils on the fingers containi-
nate these components, possibly shortening their service
life. Refer to the instructions for the selected model.
CA UTION
Mark the top cover frame and lower cover
of the electric motor prior to disassembly.
Use paint dots or removable tape. Never
scratch the components, as it promotes cor-
rosion o f metal components.
NOTE
The magnets in the electric motor frame as-
sembly are quite strong. Considerable effort
may be required to remove theframe assem-
bly from the armature. Checkfor remaining
fastefiers, then carefullypull theframe from
the arn~atz~re. 1. Frame
2. Screws
3. Armature
DF25 and DFSO models 4. O-ring
5. Lower cover
1. Mark the frame and lower cover mating surfaces (Fig-
ure 17) for reference during assembly.
2. Hold the frame so it firmly contacts the lower cover
5. Remove the O-ring from the lower cover. Use a suit-
and remove both screws.
able solvent to clean all contaminants from the trim motor
3. Lightly tap the lower cover to separate it from the
components. Inspect the trim motor components as de-
frame. Hold the frame assembly, then grasp the armature
shaft with pliers and a shop towel (Figure 18). Pull the ar-
mature and lower cover from the frame assembly.
4. Use two small screwdrivers to collapse the brush DF40 and DF50 models
springs and move the brushes away from the commutator.
Carefully pull the armature from the lower cover. Slowly 1. Mark the frame and upper cover mating surfaces (Fig-
release the brush springs. ure 17) for reference during assembly.
H Y D U U L I C TRIM AND 363
1. Mark the frame (4, Figure 20) and lower cover (1 0) for
reference during asseinbly.
2. Hold the frame (4, Figure 20) while removing both
n~o~inting screws (3) from the lower cover (10).
3. Hold the fraine (4, Figure 20) and grasp the arniature
shaft with pliers and a shop towel as indicated in Figure
I.Screw 8. Brushllead
18. Pull the armature and lower cover away from the
2. Retainer 9. Brush spring frame assembly. Disconnect both leads connected to tlie
3. Screw 10. Lower cover cover mounted brushes.
4. Frame 11. Bushing 4. Use two sniall screwdrivers to collapse the brush
5. Armature 12. Seal springs (9, Figure 201, then move the brush away froni tlie
6. Screw 13. Thrust washer
7. Brush retainer 14. O-ring
comnutator. Pull the armature (5, Figure 20) from the
lower coL1er. Slowly release the brush springs.
5. Remove the thrust washer (13, Figure 20) from the ar-
mature (5). Remove the O-ring (14, Figure 20) from the
lower cover (10).
6. Reniove both screws (6, Figure 201, then lift both
b~xishretainers (7) from the lower cover (10). Disconnect
2. Hold the fraine (1, Figure 19) so it firmly contacts the the wire terminals, then lift the brush lead and breaker and
lower cover (5) and remove all three mounting screws ( 2 ) . b~usliassembly (8, Figure 20) from the lower cover (10).
3. Hold the frame assembly ( I , Figure 191, then grasp the 7. Note the seal lip direction, then carefully push or ply
armature shaft with pliers and a shop towel (Figure 18). the seal and b~ishing(12 and 1 1 , Figure 20) from the
Pull the annature and lower cover from the frame assem- lower cover.
bly.
4. Use two small screwdrivers to collapse the brush Trim Motor Inspection
springs and move the brushes away froni the comnutator.
Carefully p~illthe annat~ire(3, Figure 19) from the lower Tl~oro~igl~lyclean all components prior to testing or
cover. Slowly release the brush springs. measuring. Inspect the magnets in the franie assembly for
5. Remove the O-ring (4, Figure 19) from the lower broken or loose magnets and replace the frame assembly
cover (5). Mark the orientation of the plate to the lower if defective.
cover (5). Reniove the screws, then disconnect the tenni- I . Connect an olimmeter between each brush and ternii-
nal connector. Lift the brusli and lead assembly and plate nal end of the brusli wire (Figure 21). Continuity mist be
fioin the lower cover. present, otherwise replace the bruslies and leads,
3 64 CHAPTER ELEVEN
2. Caref~illygrip the annature i n a vise (Figure 22). Use

only enough clainping force to retain the arinat~~re. Polish
tlie conxnutator surfaces with 600-grit wet or dry abrasive
paper or C ~ S ~ L I I - LPolisli
I ~ I ~ the
L I ~s ~ ~. r f a conly.
e Remove
only conta~ninationand glazed surfaces. Periodically ro-
tate the asniature to polish evenly. Avoid renioving too
n~ucliniaterial.
3. Use a fingernail file to remove the niica and brusli ma-
terial from between the coinm~~tator segnients (Figure
23').
4. Connect an oh~nineterbetween each coininutator seg-
nient (Figure 24) while noting the meter reading. Conti-
nuity must be present between eacli segment. Othciwise
replace the armature.
5. Connect the ohninieter between each cominutator seg-
ment and eacli ai-niature lamination (Figure 251, then the
aimatuse shaft. No continuity shoiild be present between
any commutator segment and annature laininations or
shaft. Continuity indicates a shorted arniattire. Replace
the arniature.
6. Using a micrometer or vernier caliper, measure the
commutator dianleter at the points indicated (Figure 26).
Coinpare the nieasurenients with the specification in Ta-
ble 2. Replace the aimat~~re if the ~neasurenlentsare less
than the speciiication. Inspect the bearing surfaces on the
armature for excessive wear or damage and replacc as re-
quired. Inspect the busliings in the covers or frame assem-
bly. Replace them if worn or damaged.
7 . Using a depth niicro~neter,~neasurethe depth of the
undercut between the coinmutator segments at thc points
indicated in Figure 27. Conipare the measurements with
the coni~nutator~ ~ n d e r specifkcition
c~~t in Table 2. Re-
place the arn1atiire if the ineasurenients are not within the
specification.
8. Inspect tlie brush springs for dai~iageor corrosion. Re-
place tlie brush springs if there is coi-rosion or lost spring
tension. Use a caliper or ~nicroineterto measure the brush
length (Figure 28). Replace both brushes if the lengtli of
eiiher brush is at or below the niini~nuinspecification in
Table 2.
Trim Motor Assembly
Clcan and dry all components prior to asseinbly. Apply

a light coat of Suzuki watcr-resistant grease to the bush-
ings, 0 - r ~ n g s ,seals and ai-inatuse shaft (at the b~~sliing
contact s~~rfaceb). Do not allow any grease to contact the
brushes or conxiwtator. Refer to the instructions for the
selected model.
ULIC TRIM AND MIDSECTION 365
3. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to the b~lshing111

the frame assembly. Grasp the armature shaft with pliers
and a shop towel (Figure 18). Carefully slip the fiaine as-
sembly over the armature while guiding the armature
shaft into the bushing in the frame assembly.
4. Position the annature against the lower cover. Position
the O-ring on the lower cover. Rotate the frame assembly
until the reference marks (Figure 17) align. Install both
screws then tighten them securely.
1. Insert the b~ushesand leads into the lower cover (5,

Figure 19). Connect the wire tenninal to tlle breaker.
Place the brush springs into the recesses provided in the
lower cover. Place tlle thrust washer into the lower cover,
then install tlie plate into the lower cover.
2. Install the brush retaining plate and both screws, then
secui-ely tighten them. Install a new O-ring (4, Figure 19)
onto the lower cover (5).
3. Use two s~nallscrewdrivers to position the brushes
fully into the brush holders (tlle springs must be fully col-
lapsed). Caref~dlyinstall tlie commutator end of the arina-
ture into the brush holder then release the brushes. Nevcr
force the armature into the cover, or the brushes will be
damaged.
4. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to the bushing in
the frame assembly. Grasp the armature shaft with pliers
and a shop towel (Figure 18). Carefully slip the frame as-
sembly ( I , Figure 19) over the armature while guiding the
a n n a t ~ ~shaft
r e into the bushing in the frame assembly.
5. Position the annature against the lower cover. Position
until the reference masks (Figure 17) align. Install all
three screws (2, Figure 19) then tighten them securely.
DF25 and DF30 models 1. Insert the breakerhn~slllead (8, Figure 20) into the
lower cover (10). Connect the wire terminal to the breaker
and blush retainer.
I. Insert the brushes, springs and leads into their respec- 2. Install the seal into the lower cover with the seal lip
tive recess in the lower cover. Install a new O-ring onto facing down or away from the armature. Place the brush
the lower cover. springs (9, Figure 20) into the recesses provided in the
2. Use two small screwdrivers to position the brushes lower cover. Place the thrust washer (1 3, Figure 20) onto
fully into the blush holders (the springs 111ust be fully col- the upper portion of the armature shaft.
lapsed). Carefully install the commutator end of the a m a - 3. Install the b r ~ ~ retainers
sh (7, Figure 20) onto the lower
ture into the brush holder then release the brusl~es.Never cover. Install the screws and washers (6, Figure 20) and
force the armature into the cover, or the brushes will be securely tighten thein. Position the brushes into the brush
damaged. springs within the lower cover.
366 CHAPTER ELEVEN
4. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to the bushing in

the lower cover. Use two small screwdrivers to position
tlie brushes h l l y into the bmsh holders (the springs must
be fully collapsed). Carefully install the commutator end
of the armature into the bmsh holder then release the
brushes. Never force the asmature into the cover; the
brushes will be damaged.
5. Install a new O-ring onto the lower cover (14, Figure
20). Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to the bushing in
the frame. Place the thmst washer (13, Figure 20) onto the
aimahire shaft. Grasp the asmature shaft with pliers and a
shop towel (Figure 18).Carehlly slip the frame assembly
(4, Figure 20) over the armature while guiding the arma-
a r e shafl into the bushing in the frame assembly.
6. Position the armature against the lower cover. Position
until the reference marks align (Figure 17). Install both 4. Ensure the O-ring remains in position then instal1 both
screws (3, Figure 20), then securely tighten them. mounting screws. Tighten the screws evenly to the speci-
5 . Refer to Dim System and install the trim system,
Trim Motor Installation
Tl~orougl~ly clean the trim motor mounting surface DF40 and DFSO models
prior to installation. Always install a new O-ring onto the
trim motor-to-trim system mating surface. Using a dete- I. Install a tzew O-ring onto the step of the electric motor
riorated or damaged O-ring allows water intrusion and mating surface. Place the drive coupler onto the shaft cou-
probable damage to internal trim system components. Ap- pling portion of the hydraulic pump. Fill the cavity below
ply a light coating of water resistant grease to the O-ring the trim motor with triin fluid.
prior to installation. To allow for easier filling and air 2. Carefully lower the asmature shaft onto the coupling.
bleeding, fill the cavity below the motor mounting surface Rotate the electric motor until the shaft and coupling align
with Dexron I1 automatic transmission fluid prior to in- (Figure 29) and the electric motor drops into position.
stalling the motor. Refer to the instructions for the se- Rotate the electric motor to align the inarks made before
lected model. removal. The wires must exit the trim motor at tlie point
opposite the hydraulic cylinder.
3. Ensure the O-ring senlains in position then install the
DFZS and DF30 models three mounting screws. Tighten the screws to 6 Nem. (54
in-lb.).
1. Install a new O-ring onto the step of the motor mating 4. Refer to Trim System and install the trim system.
surface. Place the drive coupler onto tlie shaft coupling
portion of the hydraulic pump. Fill the cavity below the
DF60 and DF70 nzodels
tsim motor with trim fluid.
2. Carefully lower the armature shaft onto the coupling. I . Place the filter (5, Figure 16) onto the triin pump. Scat
Rotate the electric motor until the shaft and coupling align the filter into its mounting recess. Fill the trim motor
(Figure 29) and the electric motor drops into position. mounting cavity with Dexron I1 auto~natictransmission
Rotate the electric motor to align the marks made before fluid until even with the top of the filter.
renioval. The wires must exit the trim motor at the point 2. Install a tzew O-ring (4, Figure 16) onto the step of the
opposite the hydraulic cylinder. electric motor mating surface. Place the drive coupler ( 6 ,
3. Install a new fluid reservoir seal onto the trim motor. Figure 16) onto the shaft coupling portion of the 11ydrau-
Apply a light coat of water resistant grease to the seal. lic pump.
Slide the fluid resesvoir over the trim motor with the fill 3. Carefully lower the asmature shaft onto the coupling.
plug facing rearward. Seat the reservoir on the seal and Rotate the electric motor until thc shaft and coupling align
k i m motor. (Figure 29) and the electric niotor drops into position.
system (Figure 30). Remove the O-ring from the trim sys-
/
Fluid reservoir tem or the alignment collar (Figure 30).
3. Remove the fluid fill/clieck cap from the fluid reser-
voir. Using a solvent, clean the inner and outer surfaces of
the reservoir. Use a lint-free shop towel to clean the fluid
reservoir mating surface of the trim system.
4. Inspect the fluid reservoir and trim systeni for deep
scratches, cracks, pitting or damage at thc reser-
voir-to-trim systeni mating surfaces. Replace any dcfec-
tive coniponents.
5. Apply a light coat of water-resistant grease to thc i7ew
O-ring, then place it in position on the trim system as indi-
cated (Figure 30). Witlio~~t dislodging the O-ring, posi-
tion the fluid reservoir onto the trim system. Ensure tlic
aligning collar enters its corresponding opening in thc
trim system.
Rotate the electric motor to align the orientation marks 6. Align the mo~~nting holes in the fluid reservoir with
made prior to removal. The wires must exit the motor on their cossesponding threaded holes in the trim systcni. In-
the front side or opposite both tsim cylinders. stall the three mounting bolts and tighten them to the spec-
4. Install the mounting bolts (2, Figure 16) through tlie ification in Table 1.
lower cover and into the electsic motor mounting pad. Se- 7. Fill the rescwoir with fluid and install the trini systeni
curely tighten the screws. onto the engine.
5. Refer to Einz System and install the cosnplete trim sys-
tem onto the engine.
Hydraulic Pump
Fluid Reservoir LVAWING

The trindtilt system creates vety high p r c -
WARNING sure. A l ~ v a ywear eye and Iza~idp~~otection.
The trim system contains jluid under high hTe~,erremove any plz~gsorjttings ~vitl~out
pressure. Always wear e-ye protection um/ re/ietling the pressure fio fn the system. Rlt
gloves wlzile working with the tiaim systein. the engine to tlze full UP positiot1 am' pro-
Never ren~ove any components or plugs vide adequate support agaimtfalling. Open
without first bleeding system pressure. the n~ainialrelief valve 2-3 complete tur11s
This section provides removal and installation instruc- fo relieve the pressure.
tions for the fluid resesvoir. On DF25 and DF30 models,
refer to the trim motor removal and installation instruc- This section provides ren~ovaland installation instruc-
tions in this chapter for resesvoir replacement instructions for the trim pump used on DF60 and DF70 models.
tions. On models DF40 and DF.50, the fluid resesvoir is On DF25. DF30, DF40 and DF50 models the pump is in-
integrated into the hydraulic cylinder and is not remov- tegsated into tlie trini system liousing. Do not loosen the
able. On models DF60 and DF70 the fluid resesvoir is lo- pump mounting screws or disturb the punip. The gears in
cated on the starboard side of the trim system. Remove the pump could ~nisalignand cause eventual pump Sailurc.
and install the resesvoir as follows: Replace the housing or coniplete tsim system if the pump
1. Refer to Eitn System in this chapter and remove the
is faulty.
trim system from the engine. Secure the trim system in a On DF60 and DF70 models, the pump is integrated into
vise with protective jaws or small pieces of wood for pad- the pump maniSb1d. IS tlie piin~pis faulty, replace tlic
ding. Place a container under the hydraulic cylinder(s) to punip ~nanifoldassen~bly.
catch any spilled fluid. 1. Refer to Eim Motor Renzoval and remove the electric
2. Clean all debris from the external surfaces in and motor and filter from the trim system.
around the fluid resesvoir (Figure 30). Suppost the fluid 2. Place a suitable containcr under the trim system to
resesvoir while removing the three reservoir mounting catch any spilled fl~tid.Refer to Manual Relief Valw and
screws. Carefully pull the resesvoir away from the trim remove tlic n i a n ~ ~relief
a l valve from the trim systeni.
368 CHAPTER ELEVEN
3. Support the pump manifold while removing the three

Allen bolts from the port side of the manifold. Carefully
pull the manifold from the trim system (Figure 31).
@ pump Alignme
4. Note the size and location of the O-rings on the trim

system (Figure 31). Remove the O-rings.
5. Using lint-free shop towels, clean the manifold inount-
ing surface on the trim system.
6. Carefully press a new filter (Figure 31) into the filter
opening of the replacement pump manifold.
7. Apply a light coat of water-resistant grease to all five
O-rings. Position the new O-rings into position the trim
system as indicated (Figure 31).
Filter
8. Without dislodging the O-rings, place the pump niani-
fold onto its mounting surface. Align the collar with the
upper hole in the pump manifold.
9. Hold the pump manifold in position and align the Al-
len bolt holes in the pump manifold with the threaded
holes in the trim system.
10. Install the Allen bolts and evenly tighten them.
1 1. Refer to Trim Motor Installation and install the elec-
tric motor and filter onto the trim system.
Trim Relay
This section provides trim relay removal and installa-

tion instructions. Refer to the wiring diagrams at the back
of the manual to identify the wire colors connected to the
relays.
1 Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the
electric component cover.
2. Mark all wire terminal connections and wire routing side of the port clamp bracket (Figure 32). Note the
(Figure 11).Carefully disconnect all wire terminals from sender wire routing and connections prior to removal.
the relay. This important step helps to ensure a proper installation
3. Mark the up side of the relay. and prevents interference with other moving components.
4. Remove the two bolts, washers and grommets (if so Perform trim sender adjustment after installation. Refer
equipped) that retain the trim relay to the mounting to Chapter Five for adjustment instructions. Note the size
bracket. and location of any plastic tie clamps and replace them as
5. Place the relay onto its mount with the up mark cor- required.
rectly oriented. Install the bolts, washer and grommets to 1. Position the engine at full-tilt and engage the tilt lock
the relay mounting holes. Securely tighten the bolts. lever. Support the engine with blocks or an overhead cable
6. Carefully attach all wires to the relay (Figure 11). as described in Fluid Level Inspection.
Route all wires to prevent them from interfering with 2. Trace the sender wires to the harness connection inside
other components. the motor cover and disconnect them. Route the wires out
7. Install the electric component cover. Connect the nega- of the motor cover to allow removal of the wire and
tive battery cable. Check for proper trim system opera- sender. Remove all clamps prior to removal. Inspect the
tion. clamps for corrosion or damage and replace them as re-
quired.
Trim Position Sender 3. Use a felt-tip marker to trace the sender outline on the
mounting location. Remove both fasteners and the sender
This section provides removal and instructions for the (Figure 32). Route the wires through the opening in the
trim position sender. The trim sender is located on the in- port clamp bracket and remove the assembly.
4. Clean the mounting location and threaded holes.

5 . Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the sender
with the outline marks and securely tighten the attaching
screws (Figure 32). Remove the engine supports or over-
head cable. Lower the engine.
6. Refer to Chapter Five and adjust the trim sender.
Check for proper operation.
MIDSECTION

tions for all midsection components. Repair instructions
for the tiller control are also included.
Repairs to the midsection typically involve replacing
worn motor mounts, corrosion-damaged components or
components damaged because of impact with underwater
objects.
Minor repair to the midsection involves the replace-
ment of easily accessible components such as the anode
(Figure 33), lower motor mounts (Figure 34), tilt pin
(Figure 35), tilt lock lever (Figure 36) or reverse lock
mechanism.
Major repair may require removal of the power head
and gearcase followed by complete disassembly of the
midsection. Major repair is required when repairing or re-
placing the clamp brackets, upper motor mounts, tilt tube,
swivel housing, drive shaft housing, power head adapter
or oil pan.
Refer to Trim System if it is necessary to remove the
trim system components to access the midsection compo-
nent(~).
Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease (part No.
99000-25 160) to all bushings, pins and pivot points dur-
ing assembly. Tighten the midsection fasteners to the
WARNING
Never work under any part of the engine
without first providing suitable support. The
engine-mounted tilt lock or hydraulic sys-
tem may collapse and cause the engine to
drop. Support the engine with blocks or an
overhead cable before working under the
engine.
CA UTION
Do not use excessive amounts of sealer on
the anode bolt threads. The anodes cannot
protect the engine without maintaining elec-
trical continuity to the engine ground.
Check for electrical continuity after instal-
lation. Remove the anode and clean the
370 CHAPTER ELEVEN
bolts and bolt heads i f no continuity or high

resistance is measured.
Anodes
1. Place the engine in the full UP position.

2. Use an overhead hoist to support the engine. Discon-
nect the negative battery cable.
3. Loosen and remove the anode mounting bolts, then OIL PAN AND
pull the anodes (Figure 33) from the clamp brackets. Tap DRIVE SHAFT HOUSING
the anode loose with a rubber mallet if necessary. DF9.9 AND DF15 MODELS
4. Clean all corrosion from the clamp brackets at the an-
ode mating surface. Clean all corrosion from the threads 1. Emission test port
2. Gasket
of the anode bolt holes.
3. Cover
5. Clean all deposits from the anode surfaces. Sand the 4. Plug
surfaces, if necessary, until they are clean. 5. Oil seal (lip down)
6. Apply a very light coat of Suzuki silicone seal to the 6. Oil drain plug
threads of the anode mounting bolts. Do not put silicone 7. Gasket
8. Oil seal (lip up)
seal 011 the underside of the bolt heads. 9. Nut
7. Install the anode(s) and bolts. Securely tighten the an- 10. Washer
ode bolts. Using a multi-meter, check for electrical conti- 11. Upper mount
nuity between the anode and a bare spot on the clamp 12. Bolt
13. Bolt
bracket. Remove the anode, then clean the bolts and bolts
14. Seals
holes if high resistance or no continuity is measured. In- 15. Lower mount
stall the anode and verify continuity. 16. Bolt
8. Carefully remove the overhead support from the en- 17. Insulating washer
gine. Connect the negative battery cable. 18. Screw
19. Nut
20. Washer
Lower Motor Mounts 21. Ground wire
22. Starboard mount cover
23. Insulating washer
1. Place the engine in the full UP position. 24. Screw
2. Use an overhead hoist to support the engine. Discon- 25. Pin
nect the negative battery cable. 26. Ground wire
3. Refer to Figures 37-40 to locate the lower motor 27. Port mount cover
28. Bolt
mounts. Access the lower mounts as follows:
29. Screw
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models remove the bolt (28, 30. Gasket
Figure 37), nut (19) and gasket (30) from the lower 31. Insulting washer
mount covers (22 and 27). Carefully pull the covers 32. Drive shaft housing
from the drive shaft housing. Pull the pin (25, Fig- 33. Grommet
34. Gasket
ure 37) from the drive shaft housing or mount cov- 35. Alignment pin
ers. 36. Bolt
b. On DF25 and DF30 models remove the bolts (22, 37. Engine cover seal
Figure 38) and carefully pull the mount covers (23) 38. Oil pan
from the drive shaft housing (34).
c. On DF40 and DF50 models remove the bolts (36,
Figure 39) and carefully pull the mount covers (35)
from the drive shaft housing (20).
d. On DF60 and DF70 models remove the screws (3 1,
Figure 40) and push the cover forward enough to
disengage the pins (28) and springs (29). Lift the
covers (30, Figure 40) from the drive shaft housing
372 CHAPTER ELEVEN
(18). Pull the pins and spring from the lower mount
bracket (33, Figure 40).
4. Remove the mounts from the drive shaft housing as
follows:
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models remove the four bolts
(16, Figure 37) then carefully pry the mount from
the drive shaft housing.
b. On DF25 and DF30 models remove the rear nuts
(24, Figure 38), washer (25) and cushion (26) from
the mount bolts (28). Remove the nuts and washers
(29 and 30, Figure 38) and carefully pry the lower
1. Gasket mounts (27) and bolts (28) away from the drive
2. Oil pan
3. Grommet
shaft housing (34). Slide the mount from the bolt.
4. Water stream tube c. On DF40 and DF50 models remove the rear nuts
5. O-ring (37, Figure 39), washer (38) and cushion (39) from
6. Plug the mount bolts (41). Remove the nuts and washers
7. O-ring (29 and 30, Figure 39) and carefully pry the lower
8. Hose
9. Plug
mounts (40) and bolts (41) away from the drive
10. Washer shaft housing (20). Slide the mounts from the bolts.
11. Bolt d. On DF60 and DF70 models remove the bolts (32,
12. Clamp Figure 40) and carefully pry the lower mount
13. Water pressure relief brackets (33) from the drive shaft housing. Remove
valve
14. Gasket the rear nuts (34, Figure 40), washer (35) and cush-
15. Bolt ion (36) from the mount bolts (39). Remove the nuts
16. Grommet and washers (21 and 22, Figure 40) and carefully
17. Water pump tube pry the lower mounts (37) and bolts (39) away from
18. Grommet the drive shaft housing (1 8). Slide the mounts and
19. Gasket
20. Exhaust cover washer (38, Figure 40) from the bolts.
21. Bolt 5. Clean the mounting bolts, threaded bolt holes and
22. Bolt mount contact surfaces.
23. Mount cover 6. Inspect all fasteners for wear, corrosion or damage.
24. Nut
Replace any questionable or defective fasteners. Inspect
25. Washer
26. Cushion the mounts for wear or damage. Replace the mount if de-
27. Lower mount fective.
28. Mount bolt 7. Inspect the mount contact surfaces in the drive shaft
29. Washer housing for cracked or damaged areas. Replace the drive
30. Front nut shaft housing if cracks or excessively worn areas arc
31. Ground wire
32. Screw noted.
33. Insulating washer 8. Apply ThreeBond 1342 (Suzuki part No.
34. Drive shaft housing 99000-32050) to the threads of all mount and mount cover
35. Alignment pin bolts. Install the mounts and all applicable fasteners.
36. Washer Tighten the mount fasteners to the specification in Table
37. Bolt
38. Alignment bushing 1.
39. Gasket 9. Install all removed mount covers, ground wires, cush-
40. Oil drain plug ions and brackets. Securely tighten all fasteners.
10. Carefully remove the overhead support from the en-
gine. Connect the negative cable.
Tilt Pin
The tilt pin passes through the tilt pin holes (Figure 35)
in the port and starboard clamp brackets. It is important
374 CHAPTER ELEVEN
that the pin be installed into the same hole as removed.

Moving the pin to the upper positions can cause excessive
bow lift and propeller ventilation problems during accel-
eration. Moving the pin to the lower positions can cause
boat handling problems under certain conditions. Using
the lower positions can cause poor idling if the exhaust re-
lief hole in the drive shaft housing is under water.
OIL PAN AND 1. Place the engine in the full up position. Disconnect the
SHAFT HOUSING negative battery cable.
ND DF50 MODEL
2. Use an overhead hoist to support the engine.
3. Mark or note which hole in the clamp bracket the pin
1.
Water pump tube
2.
Bolt
passes through.
3.
Bolt 4. Grip the clamp on the port side of the tilt pin. Squeeze
4.
Cover the clamp to release the pin from the port clamp bracket.
Grommet
5. 5. Pull the tilt pin from the clamp brackets. Clean the tilt
6.
Water pressure relief
pin and the tilt pin holes in the clamp brackets.
valve
7. Relief valve housing 6. Inspect the tilt pin for bent or damaged areas. Replace
8. Gasket the tilt pin if bent, worn or damaged. Replace the drive pin
9. Water stream fitting andlor tilt pin if a loose tit is noted.
10. O-ring 7. Apply a light coat of water-resistant grease to the tilt
11. Plug
12. Alignment pin pin and its hole in the clamp bracket.
13. Gasket 8. Place the tilt pin into the correct hole in the clamp.
14. Power mounting stud Carefully guide the pin through the port then starboard
15. Washer clamp bracket.
16. Nut
17. Oil pan
9. Squeeze the clamp on the port side of the tilt pin. En-
18. Bolt gage the clamp onto the clamp bracket and release the
19. Bolt clamp.
20. Drive shaft housing 10. Carefully remove the overhead support from the en-
21. Bolt gine. Connect the negative battery cable.
22. Gasket
23. Oil drain plug
24. Bolt
25. Alignment pin
Tilt Lock Lever
26. Exhaust grommet
27. Lower mount/swivel Refer to Figures 41-43 as appropriate during tilt lock
tube bracket lever replacement.
28. Cushion 1. Place the engine in the full UP position.
29. Nut 2. Use an overhead hoist to support the engine. Discon-
30. Washer
31. Insulating washer nect the negative battery cable.
32. Screw 3. Remove all springs, pins, washers and attaching nuts
33. Ground wire for the tilt lock lever assembly (Figure 36).
34. Screw 4. Inspect all pins, levers, bushings and springs for worn,
35. Lower mount cover
36. Bolt
corroded or damaged surfaces. Replace defective compo-
37. Rear nut nents.
38. Washer 5. Lubricate all bushings and pivot points with Suzuki
39. Cushion water-resistant grease prior to assembly. Install all bush-
40. Lower mount ings, pins, washers and nuts onto the clamp brackets and
41. Mount bolt
swivel housing. Attach the spring(s) to the tilt lock lever
mechanism.
6. Be sure the tilt lock lever operates smoothly. Check for
improper assembly if rough operation or binding occurs.
gine. Connect the negative battery cable.
376 CHAPTER ELEVEN
Reverse Lock Mechanism
DF9.9 and DF15 models use a reverse lock mechanism

to prevent the engine from tilting up during reverse opera-
tion.
2. Use an overhead hoist to support the engine. Discon-
OIL PAN AND nect the negative battery cable.
DRIVE SHAFT HOUSING 3. Remove the cotter pins (20, Figure 41) and washer
DF60 AND DF70 MODELS (19) from the pins (14 and 15).
4. Use locking pliers to remove the spring (17, Figure
1. Gasket 41) from the hook and pin. Support the hook and lever (16
2. Alignment pin
and 18, Figure 41) and pull the pins (14 and 15) from the
3. Washer
4. Bolt clamp brackets.
5. Bolt 5. Pull the hook and lever from the clamp brackets.
6. Washer 6. Inspect all pins, levers, bushings and springs for worn,
7. Oil pan corroded or damaged surfaces. Replace defective compo-
8. Water stream fitting
9. O-ring
nents.
10. Plug 7. Lubricate all bushings and pivot points with Suzuki
11. Exhaust grommet water-resistant grease prior to assembly. Install all bush-
12. O-ring ings, pins, washers, hooks and levers onto the clamp
13. Flush fitting brackets and swivel housing. Attach the spring (1 7, Fig-
14. Oil drain plug
15. Gasket
ure 41) to the hook and lever.
16. Alignment pin 8. Be sure the reverse lock engages the tilt pin when in re-
17. Bolt verse and operates smoothly. Check for improper assem-
18. Drive shaft housing bly if 110 engagement or binding occurs.
19. Cushion
20. Lower mounffswivel
tube bracket gine. Connect the negative battery cable.
21. Washer
22. Nut
23. Insulating washer Clamp Bracket
24. Screw
25. Ground wire NOTE
26. Screw Replace all locking-type or tab washers i f
27. Insulating washer removed or disturbed.
28. Pin
29. Spring NOTE
30. Lower mount cover Note the connection points before discon-
31. Screw necting the ground wires. Clean all corro-
32. Bolt sion or contaminants from the wire contact
33. Lower mount bracket
surface during installation. Securely tighten
34. Rear nut
35. Washer
all ground wire screws during assembly.
36. Cushion
37. Lower mount 1. Place the engine in the full UP position.
38. Washer 2. Use an overhead hoist or wooden blocks to support the
39. Mount bolt engine. Disconnect the battery.
40. Water pump tube 3. Refer to Figures 41-43 to locate the clamp brackets
41. Bolt
42. Grommet
and connected components or fasteners.
4. Remove the trim system (if so equipped) as described
in this chapter. Remove the trim position sender (if so
equipped) when removing the starboard clamp bracket.
5. Disconnect and remove the steering linkage and cables
from the swivel tube and tilt tube. Remove the engine
mounting bolts from the clamp brackets and boat transom.
378 CHAPTER ELEVEN
CLAMP BRACKET AND SWIVEL TUBE

1. Swivel tube 31. Pin

2. Swivel bracket 32. Spring
3. Washer 33. Cotter pin
4 Bushings 34. Tilt lock lever
5. Friction pad 35. Screw
6. Washer 36. Insulating washer
7. Spring 37. Ground wire
8. Bushing 38. Screw
9. Friction bolt 39. Insulating washer
10. Washer 40. Port side clamp bracket
11. Circlip 41. Tilt tube nut
12. Grease fitting 42. Washer
13. Spring 43. Nut
14. Pin 44. Tilt pin
15. Pin 45. Spacer
16. Hook 46. Anode
17. Spring 47. Bolt
18. Lever 48. Pad
19. Washer 49. Screw
20. Cotter pins 50. Roll pin
21. Linkage 51. Thumb screw grip
22. Pin 52. Bolt
23. Grip 53. Tilt tube
24. Lever 54. Starboard clamp bracket
25. Washer 55. Bolt
26. Bolt 56. Grip
27. Bushing 57. Spring
28. Bushing 58. Lever
29. Spring 59. Washer
30. Bushing 60. Bolt
380 CHAPTER ELEVEN
CLAMP BRACKET AND SWIVEL TUBE

1. Tiller arm bracket 35. Anode

2. Cable plate 36. Bolt
3. Screw 37. Pad
4. Bolt 38. Thumb screw
5. Washer 39. Thumb screw grip
6. Bolt 40. Pin
7. Washer 41. Ground wire
8. Remote steering 42. Screw
bracket 43. Cushion
9. Bolt 44. Circlip
10. Washer 45. Lower mount bracket
11. Washer 46. Washer
12. Plate 47. Washer
13. Lever 48. Seal
14. Pivot bolt 49. Bushing
15. Washer 50. Bushing
16. Plate 51. Bushing
17. Wave washer 52. Grease fitting
18. Washer 53. Swivel bracket
19. Pivot bolt 54. Bushing
20. Adjuster bolt 55. Pin
21. Lever 56. Bushing
22. Swivel tube 57. Screw
23. Key 58. Clamp
24. Washer 59. Screw
25. Plate 60. Spring
26. Bushing 61. Tilt lock lever
27. Pad 62. Tilt adjusting bolt
28. Spring 63. Washer
29. Washer 64. Washer
30. Bushing 65. Nut
31. Steering friction bolt 66. Washer
32. Tilt lock lever 67. Tilt tube nut
33. Tilt tube 68. Starboard clamp
34. Port clamp bracket bracket
382 CHAPTER ELEVEN
6. Remove the nuts from the lower pin or spacer (if so

equipped). Remove the large nut that retains the tilt tube
to the clamp brackets. Carefully pull the clamp bracket
from the engine. Clean the mounting bolt holes in the boat
transom.
CLAMP BRACKET AND SWIVEL TUB 7. Clean the clamp bracket, then inspect the clamp
DF40yDF50yDF60 bracket and related fasteners for cracks, wear, or damage.
AND DF70 MODEL Replace any defective components.
8. Place the clamp bracket in position on the midsection.
Align all bolts, nuts, spacers and brackets with their re-
1. Lower clamp
bracket bolt
spective holes in the clamp bracket.
2. Nut 9. Apply high quality marine-grade sealant to all surfaces
3. Washer of the mounting bolts and the bolt holes. Install the engine
4. Tilt pin mounting bolts through the clamp bracket and boat tran-
5. Port clamp bracket som. Securely tighten the mount bolts.
6. Tilt tube
7. Bushing
10. Install the trim system (if so equipped) as described in
8. Spacer this chapter.
9. Bushing 11. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to the steering
10. Circlip cable and tilt tube. Attach the steering cable and linkage to
11. Lower mounVswivel the tilt tube and swivel tube. Securely tighten all fasteners,
tube bracket
12. Washer
then engage any fastener locking devices.
13. Washer 12. Refer to Chapter Twelve and install tlie trim position
14. Seal sender (if so equipped).
15. Bushing 13. Carefully remove the support from the engine. Clean
16. Lever the terminals and connect the battery cables to the battery.
17. Bushing
18. Washer
14. Operate the trim and steering system through their
19. Washer entire operating range. Inspect the midsection for improp-
20. Swivel tube erly installed components if unusual noises or binding oc-
21. Ground wire curs. Repair as required.
22. Insulating washer
23. Screw
24. Pin Upper Motor Mount
25. Bolt
26. Wave washer 1A. On DF9.9 and DF 15 models remove the lower engine
27. Bushing
cover as described in Oil Filter Replacement (Chapter
28. Spring
29. Pad Four).
30. Swivel bracket IB. On all other models refer to Chapter Eight and re-
31. Bushing move tlie power head.
32. Tilt lock lever 2. Remove the upper motor mounts as follows:
33. Bushing
a. On DF9.9 and DF15 models remove the bolts (12,
34. Grease fitting
35. Spring Figure 37), nuts (9) and washers (10). Remove the
36. Spring four bolts (13, Figure 37) and carefully pry the
37. Bushing mounts from the oil pan assembly (38).
38. Bushing b. On DF25 and DF30 models support the drive shaft
39. Starboard clamp bracket
housing while removing the nuts and washers (29
40. Tilt tube nut
41. Nut and 30, Figure 38) from the lower motor mount.
42. Washer Remove the four mount cover bolts (1, Figure 44)
43. Anode and pull the drive shaft housing (34, Figure 38)
44. Bolt '1 ure
from the swivel bracket. Pull the cover (2, r'g
44) and upper mount (6) from the power head
adapter (35). Remove the nut, tab washer and flat
washer and pull the upper mount bolt from the
mount.
384 CHAPTER ELEVEN
c. On DF40 and DF50 models support the drive shaft

housing while removing the nut and washer (29 and
30, Figure 39) from the lower engine mount. Re-
move the nuts, washers and cushions (9- 1 1, r'gI ure
45) then pull the drive shaft housing (20, Figure 39)
from the swivel bracket. Remove the bolts (14 and
15, Figure 45). mount covers (12) and mounts (2 1)
from the power head adapter (5). Slide the bolts,
washers and cushions (1 8-20, Figure 45) and bolt
POWER HEAD ADAPTER (17 ) from the mount.
DF25 AND DF30 MODELS d. On DF60 and DF70 models support the drive shaft
housing while removing the nut and washer (2 1 and
22, Figure 40) from the lower engine mount. Re-
1. Bolt
2. Mount brackeffcover
move the nuts, washers and cushions (9-1 1, Figure
3. Nut 45) then pull the drive shaft housing (1 8, Figure 40)
4. Tab washer from the swivel bracket. Remove the bolts (14 and
5. Washer 15, Figure 45). mount covers (12) and mounts (21)
6. Upper mount from the power head adapter (5). Slide the bolts,
7. Mount bolt
8. Cap
washers and cushions (18-20, Figure 45) and bolt
9. O-ring (1 7 ) from the mount.
10. Alignment pin 3. Clean the mount bolts, bolt holes and mount contact
11. Gasket surfaces.
12. Bolt 4. Inspect all mount fasteners for excessive wear, corro-
13. Gasket
14. Plug
sion or damage. Replace any questionable fasteners. ln-
15. Fitting spect the mounts for worn surfaces or damage to the
16. O-ring rubber portion of the mount. Replace defective mounts.
17. Plug 5. Inspect the mount contact surfaces in the power head
18. Bolt adapter or oil pan for cracks or damage. Replace a cracked
19. Washer
20. Bolt
or excessively worn adapter.
21. Seal 6. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly while noting
22. Sealing washer the following:
23. Oil pressure relief valve a. Apply ThreeBond 1342 (Suzuki part No.
24. O-ring 99000-32050) to the threads of all mount, mount
25. Oil pump
26. Gasket
cover and mount bracket bolts.
27. Lock washer b. On DF25 and DF30 n~odelsbend the tab on the
28. Stopper bolt washer (4, Figure 44) securely against the nut after
29. Sealing washer tightening.
30. Bolt c. Tighten the mount fasteners to the specification in
31. Bolt
32. Oil pickup tube Table 1.
33. O-ring 7 . Install all ground wires. Securely tighten all fasteners.
34. Bolt 8A. On DF9.9 and DF 15 models install the lower engine
35. Power head adapter covers.
8B. On all other models refer to Chapter Eight and install
the power head.
Tilt Tube

2. Use an overhcad hoist or wooden blocks to support the
engine Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Refer to Figures 41-43 to locate the clamp brackets
and connected components or fasteners.
386 CHAPTER ELEVEN
POWER HEAD ADAPTER

DF40, DF50, DF60 AND DF70 MODELS
1. Bolt 12. Mount cover

2. Oil pickup tube 13. Mount cover
3. O-ring 14. Bolt
4. O-ring 15. Bolt
5. Power head adapter 16. Cushion
6. Gasket 17. Mount bolt
7. Oil seal 18. Cushion
8. Alignment pin 19. Washer
9. Nut 20. Washer
10. Washer 21. Upper mount
11. Washer
4. Disconnect the steering linkage and cables from the erly installed components if unusual noise or binding oc-
swivel tube and tilt tube. curs. Repair as required.
5. Remove the large nut that secures the tilt tube to the
starboard clamp bracket.
Swivel Housing
6. Use a one-foot section of pipe or tubing to drive the tilt
tube through the clamp brackets and swivel tube. The se- 1. Remove the trim system (if so equipped) as described
lected tool must be slightly smaller in diameter than the in this chapter.
tilt tube.
2. Support the engine with an overhead cable.
7. Provide just enough overhead support to keep the tube
3. Disconnect the engine from the swivel housing as fol-
from binding during removal. Do not use excessive force
lows:
to remove the tube. Excessive force can cause the end of
the tube to flare out preventing removal from the swivel a. On DF9.9 and DF 15 models remove the lower mo-
housing and port clamp bracket. tor mounts as described in this chapter. Remove the
8. Support the engine, then slowly remove the driver tool. bolts (1 2, Figure 37), nuts (9) and washers (1 0). Re-
Retain the washers as they drop from the clamp brackets move the four bolts (13, Figure 37) to free the en-
and swivel housing. Remove the sealing boot and bushing gine from the upper motor mounts (1 1).
from the port side of the tilt tube. b. On DF25 and DF30 models support the drive shaft
9. Thoroughly clean the tilt tube. Inspect the tilt tube for housing while removing the nuts and washers (29
excessive wear, corrosion, cracking or damage. Replace a and 30, Figure 38) from the lower motor mount.
damaged or worn tilt tube. Remove the four mount cover bolts (1, Figure 44)
10. Thoroughly clean all surfaces of the swivel housing and pull the drive shaft housing (34, Figure 38)
and clamp brackets. Inspect the tilt tube bushings in the from the swivel bracket. Pull the cover (2, Figure
swivel housing for excessive wear, corrosion, or damage. 44) and mount (6) from the power head adapter
If defects are noted, remove the grease fittings and replace (35).
the bushings. Ensure the holes in the bushing bore align c. On DF40 and DF50 models support the drive shaft
with the grease fitting openings. housing while removing the nut and washer (29 and
11. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to the tilt tube 30, Figure 39) from the lower engine mount. Re-
bore in the swivel bracket and clamp brackets. move the nuts, washers and cushions (9-1 1, Figure
12. Place the washer (if so equipped) between the clamp 45) then pull the drive shaft housing (20, Figure 39)
brackets and swivel housing and align with the tilt tube from the swivel bracket.
bore. d. On DF60 and DF70 models support the drive shaft
13. Apply a coat of Suzuki water-resistant grease to the housing while removing the nut and washer (2 1 and
external surfaces of the tilt tube. Place the tilt tube into its 22, Figure 40) from the lower engine mount. Re-
opening in the port clamp bracket with the grooved end move the nuts, washers and cushions (9-1 1, Figure
facing the port side. Align the tilt tube bores in the clamp 45) then pull the drive shaft housing (1 8, Figure 40)
brackets, washers and swivel housing during installation from the swivel bracket.
of the swivel tube. 4. While supported with an overhead cable, pull the en-
14. Using a block of wood for a cushion, carefully tap the gine away from the swivel housing. Refer to Figures
tilt tube through the port clamp bracket, swivel bracket 41-43 to identify the swivel housing components and their
and starboard clamp bracket until the threaded end fully orientation.
extends from the starboard clamp bracket. 5. Remove the clamp brackets, tilt lock lever and reverse
5 . Install the large nuts, bushing and washers on the lock mechanism as described in this chapter.
clamp brackets. Tighten the large tilt tube nuts to the spec- 6. Clean the swivel housing. Inspect the housing for wear
ification in Table 1. or damage. Replace the swivel housing if it is defective.
16. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to the steering 7. Move the swivel tube through its full range of motion.
cable and tilt tube. Attach the steering cable and linkage to Remove the swivel tube as described in this chapter if it
the tilt tube and swivel tube. Securely tighten all fasteners binds or feels loose.
and engage any fastener locking devices. 8. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly while noting
17. Carefully remove the overhead support from the en- the following:
gine. Connect the negative battery cable. a. Carefully slide the engine mount bolts into their
18. Operate the trim and steering system through the en- openings while positioning the engine to the swivel
tire operating range. Inspect the midsection for improp- bracket.
b. Apply ThreeBond 1342 (Suzuki part No. e. On DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF70 models ensure the
99000-32050) to the threads of all mount, mount splines in the lower mount bracket (1 1, Figure 43)
cover and mount bracket bolts. properly align the splines of the swivel tube (20).
c. Tighten all fasteners to the specification in Table 1. f. Fit the circlip fully into the groove at the lower end
d. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to all bushings, of the swivel tube.
sliding surfaces and pivot points. 9. Install the swivel housing as described in this chapter.
9. Refer to Clamp Bracket and install the clamp brackets
on the swivel housing, Drive Shaft Housing
10. Install the trim system (if so equipped) as described in
this chapter. 1. Remove the power head as described in Chapter Eight.
11. Tilt the engine and operate the steering through the 2. Remove the upper and lower motor mounts as de-
entire operating range. Inspect the midsection for improp- scribed in this chapter.
erly installed components if unusual noise or binding oc- 3. Refer to Figures 37-40 to identify the drive shaft hous-
curs. Repair, as required. ing components and their orientation.
4. Disassemble the drive shaft housing as follows:
On DF9.9 and DF15 models remove the oil pan (38,
Swivel tube Figure 37) as described in this chapter.
On DF25 and DF30 models remove the oil pan (2,
1. Remove the swivel housing as described in this chap- Figure 38) as described in this chapter. Carefully
ter. pull the water pump tube (17, Figure 38) from the
2. Refer to Figures 41-43 to identify the swivel housing oil pan or drive shaft housing.
components and their orientation. On DF40 and DF50 models remove the oil pan (1 7,
3. Remove the circlip (1 1, Figure 41), (44, Figure 42) or Figure 39) as described in this chapter. Remove the
(10, Figure 43) from its groove on the lower end of the bolt (2, Figure 39) and lift the water tube (1) from
swivel tube. Inspect the circlip for corrosion, cracks or the drive shaft housing.
lost spring tension. Replace damaged circlips. On DF60 and DF70 models remove the oil pan (7,
4. Support the lower mount bracket while pulling the Figure 40) as described in this chapter. Remove the
swivel tube up and out of the swivel bracket. bolt (41, Figure 40) and lift the water pump tube
a. On DF25 and DF30 models remove the key (23, (40) from the drive shaft housing. Remove the
Figure 42) from its groove on the lower end of the grommet (42, Figure 40) from the water tube or its
swivel tube. opening in the oil pan.
5. Remove the lower mount bracket, spacers and washers 5. Inspect the drive shaft housing for worn areas, crack-
from the lower end of the swivel bracket in the swivel tube ing or corrosion. Replace the housing if it is defective.
bore. Remove the washers from the upper side of the 6. Inspect all alignment pins and their bores for worn or
swivel tube or swivel tube bore. damaged pins or elongated holes. Replace any defective
6. Inspect the bushings at the upper end of the swivel tube components.
7. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Note the fol-
bore in the swivel housing. Remove and replace both
lowing:
bushings if worn or damaged.
a. Install the oil pan as described in this chapter. Install
7. Inspect the swivel tube for cracks, wear or corrosion.
new gaskets, O-ring and seals.
Replace as required.
b. Apply ThreeBond (Suzuki part No. 99000-32050)
8. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Note the fol- to the threads of all exhaust tube, engine mount and
lowing: adapter plate attaching bolts.
a. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to the swivel c. Install the grommet onto the upper and lower ends
tube bushings and swivel tube. of the water tube. Slide the water tube into the drive
b. Install all washers, bushings and spacers as shown shaft housing.
in Figures 41-43. d. On DF40, DF50, DF60 and DF70 models install
c. Position the lower seal with the seal lip facing up and securely tighten the water tube attaching bolt.
and the upper seal with the lip facing down. e. Tighten all fasteners to the specification in Table 1.
d. On DF25 and DF30 models ensure the key (23, Fig- 8. Install the upper and lower motor mounts as described
ure 42) aligns with its respective slot in the swivel in this chapter.
tube (22). 9. Refer to Chapter Eight and install the power head.
Oil Pan 17. Install the upper and lower motor mounts as dc-
Refer to Figures 37-40 to identify the oil pan and relate 18. Install the power head as described in Chapter Eight.
components. Refer to the instructions for the selected Fill the engine with oil as described in Chapter Four.
model.

DF9.9 and DF15
1. Remove the power head as described in Chapter Eight.
1 . Remove the power head as described in Chapter Eight. 2. Remove the upper and lower motor mounts as de-
2. Remove the upper and lower motor mounts as described in this chapter.
scribed in this chapter. 3. Remove the power head adapter as described in this
3. Refer to Figure 37 to identify the oil pan and related chapter. Remove the gasket (1, Figure 38) from the ma[-
components. ing surface.
4. Remove the six bolts (36, Figure 37) and carefully lift 4. Remove the six bolts and washers (36 and 37, Figure
the oil pan from the drive shaft housing. Remove the gas-
38) and carefully lift the oil pan from the drive shaft hous-
ket (34, Figure 37) from the oil pan or drive shaft housing.
ing. Pull the water pump tube and grommet (16 and 17,
Carefully scrape the gasket from the mating surfaces.
Figure 38) from the oil pan.
5. Use a blunt tip screwdriver to carefully pry the upper
5. Remove the bolts (1 5, Figure 38) and lift the cover and
and lower seals (5 and 8, Figure 37) from the oil pan.
water pressure relief valve (13 and 14, Figure 38) from
6. Remove the plugs, cover and seals (1 -4, Figure 37) on
the oil pan.
models so equipped. Remove the lower cover seal (37,
6. Thread the flush adapter (9, Figure 38) from the oil
pan. Replace the O-ring (7, Figure 38) during installa-
7. Use a suitable solvent to clean all contaminants from
tion.
the oil pan. Inspect the oil pan for cracked or corrosion
7. Remove the water stream tube (4, Figure 381, O-ring
damaged surfaces. Replace a defective oil pan.
(5) and cover (6). Carefully pry the exhaust grommet (3,
8. Clean the oil seal bores with a quick drying solvent
such a carburetor and choke cleaner. Select a suitable
8. Remove the three bolts (2 1 , Figure 38) and carefully
socket or section of tubing for use as a seal installation
tool. The tool must be slightly smaller in diameter than the pry the exhaust cover (20) from the oil pan. Carefully
oil seal bore. scrape the gasket (19, Figure 38) from the cover andlor
oil pan.
9. Position the upper oil seal (5, Figure 37) into its bore
with the seal lip facing down or away from the power 9. Loosen the clamp and pull the hose (8, Figure 38)
head. Using the tool. drive the seal until fully seated in the from the oil pan.
bore. 10. Use a suitable solvent to clean all contaminants fi-om
10. Position the lower oil seal (8, Figure 37) into its bore the oil pan. Inspect the oil pan for cracked or corrosion
with the seal lip facing up or away from the drive shaft damaged surfaces. Replace a defective oil pan.
housing. Using the tool, drive the seal until fully seated in 1 1 . Assembly is the reverse of disassembly while noting
the bore. the following:
1 1 . Install a new gasket (34, Figure 37) onto the drive Install the water pressure relief valve (13, T\ 'wure
shaft housing. Fit the opening in the gasket over the 38) into the oil pan with the spring side facing the
alignment pin (35, Figure 37). oil pan as shown in Figure 38.
12. Apply Suzuki water resistant grease to the lips of both Install a new gasket (19, Figure 38) to the exhaust
oil seals (5 and 8, Figure 37). cover (20).
13. Align the pin opening with the alignment pin (35, Install new O-rings at all locations during assembly.
Figure 37) while mating the oil pan to the drive shaft Apply Suzuki silicone sealant (part No. 99000-
housing. 3 1120) to the oil pan and drive shaft housing mating
14. Install the lower cover seal (37, Figure 37) into its surfaces.
groove in the oil pan. Coat all O-ring, grommets and seals with Suzuki
15. Install and evenly tighten the six bolts (36, Figure 37) water resistant grease during assembly.
to the specification in Table 1. Align the water tube and grommets with their open-
16. Install the plugs, gaskets and cover (1-4, Figure 37) ing in the oil pan during installation.
on models so equipped. Tighten all fasteners to the specification in Table 1.
Page: 397 Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four :-Stroke - 1997-2000
~ - - -
htt~://www.ReadManuals.Com
390 CHAPTER ELEVEN
12. Align the pin opening with the alignment pin (35, 9. Align the pin opening with the alignment pin (25, Fig-
Figure 38) while mating the oil pan to the drive shaft ure 39) while mating the oil pan to the drive shaft housing.
housing. 10. Install and evenly tighten the six bolts (2 1, Figure 39)
13. Install and evenly tighten the six bolts and washers to the specification in Table 1.
(36 and 37, Figure 38) to the specification provided in Ta- 11. Install a new gasket (13, Figure 39) and install the
ble 1. power head adapter as described in this chapter.
14. Install a new gasket (1, Figure 38) and install the 12. Install the upper and lower motor mounts as de-
power head adapter as described in this chapter. scribed in this chapter.
15. Install the upper and lower motor mounts as de- 13. Install the power head as described in Chapter Eight.
scribed in this chapter. Fill the engine with oil as described in Chapter Four.
16. Install the power head as described in Chapter Eight.
Fill the engine with oil as described in Chapter Four.
DF40 and DFSO models 1. Remove the power head as described in Chapter
Eight.
1 Remove the power head as described in Chapter 2. Remove the upper and lower n~otormounts as de-
Eight. scribed in this chapter.
2. Remove the upper and lower motor mounts as de- 3. Remove the power head adapter as described in this
scribed in this chapter. chapter. Remove the gasket (1, Figure 40) from the mat-
3. Remove the power head adapter as described in this ing surface.
chapter. Remove the gasket (13, Figure 39) from the mat- 4. Remove the eight bolts and washers (5 and 6, Figure
ing surface. 40) and carefully lift the oil pan from the drive shaft hous-
4. Remove the six bolts (21, Figure 39) and carefully lift ing.
the oil pan from the drive shaft housing.
5. Thread the water stream fitting (8, Figure 40) from the
5. Remove the four bolts (3, Figure 39) and lift the cover oil pan. Pull the plug and O-ring (9 and 10, Figure 40)
(4), water pressure relief valve (6) and grommet (5) from
from the fitting. Replace the O-ring during installation.
the housing (7). Tap the housing (7, Figure 39) to remove
6. Carefully pry the exhaust grommet (1 1, Figure 40)
it from the oil pan. Carefully scrape the gasket (8, Figure
from the oil pan. Remove the flush fitting (13, Figure 40)
39) from the mating surfaces.
from the oil pan. Replace the O-ring (12, Figure 40) dur-
6. Thread the water stream fitting (9, Figure 39) fro111
ing installation.
the oil pan. Pull the cover and O-ring (10 and 11, Figure
39) from the fitting. Replace the O-ring during installa-
tion.
damaged surfaces. Replace the oil pan if it is defective.
8. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly while noting
the following:
damaged surfaces. Replace the oil pan if it defective.
8. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly while noting a. Install new O-rings at all locations during assembly.
the following: b. Coat all O-ring, grommets and seals with Suzuki
Install a new gasket (8, Figure 39) to relief valve water resistant grease during assembly.
housing (7). Install the water pressure relief valve c. Apply Suzuki silicone seal (part No. 99000-3 1120)
with the cupped plate side facing out or away from to the oil pan and drive shaft housing mating sur-
the oil pan. faces.
Install new O-rings at all locations during assem- d. Align the water tube and grommets with their open-
bly. ing in the oil pan during installation.
Coat all O-ring, grommets and seals with Suzuki e. Tighten all fasteners to the specification in Table 1.
water resistant grease during assembly. 9. Align the pin opening with the alignment pin (16,
Apply Suzuki silicone seal (part No. 99000-3 1120) Figure 40) while mating the oil pan to the drive shaft
to the oil pan and drive shaft housing mating sur- housing .
faces. 10. Install and evenly tighten the six bolts and washers (5
Align the water tube and grommets with their open- and 6, Figure 40) to the specification in Table 1.
ing in the oil pan during installation. I I . Install a new gasket (1, Figure 40) and install the
Tighten all fasteners to the specification in Table 1. power head adapter as described in this chapter.
M AND MIDSECTION 39
12. Install the upper and lower motor mounts as de- 4B. On DF60 and DF70 models remove thc three oil
scribed in this chapter. pump bolts (3 1, Figure 44) and lift the oil pump from the
13. Install the power head as described in Chapter Eight. adapter. Replace the O-ring (24) during installation.
Fill the engine with oil as described in Chapter Four. 5. Remove the oil pressure relief valve (23, Figure 44)
from the adapter. Replace the sealing washer (22, F'g * I ure
44) during assembly.
Power Head Adapter
6. Remove all plugs, fittings. gaskets and seals from the
DF25 and DF30 models adapter.
7. Use a suitable solvent to thoroughly clean the power
1. Remove the power head as described in Chapter Eight. head adapter.
2. Remove the upper and lower motor mounts as de- 8. Disassemble and inspect the oil pump as described in
scribed in this chapter. Chapter Eight.
3. Remove the four bolts (12, Figure 44) and carefully 9. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly while noting
pry the power head adapter from the oil pan. the following:
4. Remove the two bolts (34, Figure 44) and pull the oil a. Fill the oil pump with engine oil prior to installa-
pickup tube (32) from the adapter. Replace the O-ring (33, tion.
Figure 44) during assembly. b. Install new O-rings, gaskets and seals if removed.
5. Remove the three oil pump bolts (3 1, Figure 44) and c. Apply Suzuki water resistant grease to all seal and
lift the oil pump from the adapter. Replace the O-ring (24, O-rings during assembly.
Figure 44) during installation. d. Tighten all fasteners to the specification in Table 1.
6. Remove the oil pressure relief valve (23, Figure 44) 10. Install the drive shaft housing as described in this
from the adapter. Replace the O-ring (22, Figure 44) dur- chapter.
ing assembly.
7. Remove all plugs, fittings, gaskets and seals from the
adapter. Tiller Control Repair
8. Use a suitable solvent to thoroughly clean the power
head adapter. 1. Refer to the following illustrations during disassembly
9. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly noting to: and determine which components need to be removed to
a. Fill the oil pump with engine oil prior to installa- access the defective component(s):
tion. a. Figure 46 for DF9.9 and DFl5 models.
b. Install new O-rings, gaskets and seals if removed. b. Figure 47 for DF25 and DF30 models.
c. Apply Suzuki water resistant grease to all seal and c. Figure 48 for DF40-DF70 models.
O-rings during assembly. 2. Inspect all components and fasteners for wear or dam-
d. Align the oil pump shaft to the camshaft as de- age. Never reuse a questionable component.
scribed in Chapter Eight. 3. Inspect the throttle and lor shift cables, especially
e. Tighten all fasteners to the specification provided in where they pass through the opening in the tiller handle
Table 1 . bracket. Make sure the cable moves smoothly in its 110~1s-
10. Install the drive shaft housing as described in this ing. Replace any damaged or worn cables. Refer to Chap-
chapter. ter Five for adjustment procedures.
4. Inspect all bushings and pivot bolts or tubes. Replace
D M ,DF50, DF60 any that are damaged.
and DF70 models 5. Use ThreeBond 1342 (Suzuki part No. 99000-32050)
on all fastener threads during assembly. Use Suzuki wa-
1. Remove the power head as described in Chapter Eight. ter-resistant grease on all bushings, pins, rods and pivot
2. Remove the upper and lower motor mounts as de- surfaces. Apply this grease to the grip mating surface (20,
scribed in this chapter. Figure 47) and throttle rod assembly.
3. Remove the six bolts and washers (3 and 4, Figure 40) 6. Route all wires to avoid interference during assembly.
and carefully pry the power head adapter from the oil pan. 7. Refer to Table 1 for torque specifications. Use the
4A. Remove the two bolts (1, Figure 45) and pull the oil standard torque specification (QRD) if one is not listed.
pickup tube (2) from the adapter. Replace the O-ring (3, 8. Check for proper steering and tilting when assembly is
Figure 45) during assembly. complete.
392 CHAPTER ELEVEN
TILLER CONTROL COMPONENTS

1. Oil pressure light 11. Pin 22. Cable bracket 32. Washer
2. Insulator 12. Stopllanyard switch 23. Grommet 33. Washer
3. Protective wrap 13. Lanyard cord 24. Screw 34. Tiller bolt
4. Throttle cable 14. Plastic nut 25. Clamp 35. Clamp
5. Plastic locking 15. Cap 26. Remote steering 36. Screw
clamp 16. Bolt bracket 37. Washer
6. Grommet 17. Washer 27. Bolt 38. Bolt
7. Grommet 18. Sleeve 28. Pad 39. Spring
8. Plastic nut 19. Grip 29. Support 40. Stop
9. Starter button 20. Screw 30. Screw
10. Nut 21. Grip liner 31. Tiller arm

DF25 AND DF30
1. Bushing
2. Wave washer
3. Washer
4. Spacer
5. Washer
6. Cover
7. Lockwasher
8. Bolt
9. Throttle rod
10. Throttle cables
11. Pin
12. Friction pin
13. Bushing
14. Friction screw
15. Spring
16. Bolt
17. Washer
18. Stop
19. Grip
20. Grip mating surface
21. Tiller arm
394 CHAPTER ELEVEN

DF40, DF50, DF60 AND DF70 MODELS
1. Ignition key 22. Warning buzzer

2. Plastic nut 23. Plate
3. Ignition key switch 24. E-clip
4. Wire grommet 25. Screw
5. Tiller control harness 26. Friction assembly
6. Shift cable 27. Screw
7. Shift linkage 28. Support
8. Plate 29. Screw
9. Detent ball 30. Washer
10. Bushing 31. Stop
11. Bolt 32. Spring
12. Throttle cable 33. Bushing
13. Grommet 34. Pin
14. Lanyard switch 35. Throttle rod
15. Washer 36. Throttle linkage
16. Nut 37. Screw
17. Lanyard cord 38. Grip
18. Screw 39. Tiller arm
19. Lower access cover 40. Bushing
20. Cover 41. Shift selector
21. E-clip 42. E-clip
CHAPTER ELEVEN
TABLE 1 TORQUE SPECIFICATION

Fastener N*m In-lb. ft-lb.
Drive shaft housing bolts
DF9.9, DF15, DF25, DF30
Tilt tube nut
All models
Upper engine mount cover
DF25, DF30
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70
Upper engine mount bracket
DF9.9, DF15
Upper engine mount boltlnut
DF9.9, DF15
DF25, DF30
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70
Lower engine mount cover
DF9.9, DF15
Lower engine mount nut
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50,
DF60, DF70
Front nut
Rear nut
Gas assist cylinder bolt
DF25, DF30
Hydraulic pump mounting bolts
All models
Trim motor mounting screws
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70
Fluid reservoir mounting bolts
DF25, DF30
DF60, DF70
Manual relief valve
DF25, DF30
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70
Trim system check valve plug
DF40, DF50
Tilt cylinder cap
DF60, DF70
Trim cylinder cap
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70
Shock piston nut
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70
Lower tilt cylinder bolt
DF25, DF30
Oil pressure relief valve
Oil pump stopper
Oil pump stopper plug
Tiller arm pivot bolt
DF9.9, DF15
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70
Tiller arm mounting nut
DF9.9, DF15, DF25, DF30
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70
Tiller bracket bolt
DF9.9, DF15
Throttle cable bracket
DF9.9. DF15
Commutator diameter
DF25, DF30 18.5-19.5 mm (0.728-0.768 in.)
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70 21 .O-22.0 mm (0.827-0.866 in.)
Commutator undercut
DF25, DF30 0.5-1.6 mm (0.020-0.063 in.)
DF40, DF50, DF60, DF70 0.5-0.8 mm (0.020-0.031 in.)
Brush length
DF25, DF30, DF40, DF50 4.8-9.8 mm (0.189-0.386 in.)
DF60, DF70 9.0-12.5 mm (0.354-0.492 in.)
Chapter Twelve
Remote Control
This chapter provides removal, repair and installation WARNING

instructions for the remote control and control cables. A malfunctioning remote control can result
Many different brands, types and styles of remote con- in a lack of shift and throttle control. Never
trols are available for use on Suzuki outboards. This chap- operate an outboard with any control sys-
tem malfunction. Checkfor proper control
ter provides repair instructions for the standard
system operation before operating the en-
side-mount remote control that is most commonly used. gine or after performing any service or re-
Contact a marine dealership for parts and information if pair to the control system(s).
the engine is equipped with a different brand or type of re-
mote control.
Tighten all fasteners to the standard torque specifica- Control Cable Removal and Installation
tion. Standard torque specifications are in the Quick Ref-
Replace the cables if they are hard to move or if exces-
erence Data section at the front of the manual.
sive play is noted. Replace both cables if either cable re-
CA UTION quires replacement. Mark the cable mounting points with
Always refer to the owners manualfor spe- a felt-tip marker before removing them from the remote
cific operating instructions regarding the control. To avoid confusion, remove and install one cable
remote control. Become familiar with all at a time.
control functions before operating the en- 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Place the throt-
gine. tielshift handle in the neutral position.
Page: 406 Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke - 1997-2000 http://www.ReadManuals.Com~
MOTE CONTROL 399
@ REMOTE CONTROL MOUNTNG

SIDE MOUNT (TYPICAL)
I Shift cable' ~hrottlecable 1
(0.43 in.)
7 r-
2. Remove the screws (Figure 1) and pull the remote

control away from the boat stmcture. Lay the control on a
suitable surface (back side facing up).
3. Carefully pry the small cover (Figure 2) down and
away from the remote control. Slip the cover tabs from the
openings and lift it from the control.
4. Remove the lower two attaching screws (Figure 3),
then lift the lower back cover from the remote control.
5. Remove the E-clip from the throttle cable (Figure 4).
6. Lift the throttle cable from the support clamp while re-
moving it from the remote control. Loosen the jam nut
(Figure 5), then unthread the cable connector from the ca-
ble.
7. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to the threaded
end of the replacement cables. Thread the cable connector
onto the threaded end of the cable until at least 11.0 mm
(0.433 in.) of the threaded end is inside the cable connec-
tor (Figure 5).Tighten the jam nut securely against the ca-
ble connector.
8. Apply Suzuki water-resistant grease to the attaching
points of the throttle cable (Figure 4). Position the cable
cover
connector over the pins at the attaching points. Place the
throttle cable into the slot near the support clamp. Install
the E-clip.
400 CHAPTER TWELVE
EMOTE CONTROL COMPONENT

STANDARD SIDE
MOUNT CONTROLS
1. Back plate
2. Throttle arm
3. Throttle cable connector
4. Throttle only cam
5. Retainer
6. Roller bushing
7. Gear
8. Shift lever
9. Shift cable connector
10. Detent roller
11. Spring
12. Throttle only roller
13. Throttle only lever
14. Remote control wire
harness
15. Lanyard
16. Shiftlthrottle handle
17. Trim switch
18. Neutral lock cam
19. Control housing
20. Neutral switch
9. Remove the E-clip that secures the shift cable (Figure proper remote control operation after assembly. Improper
4). assen~blycan cause internal binding or reversed cable
10. Repeat Steps 6-8 for the shift cable. movement.
11. Position the support clamp over both cables at the rear If complete disassembly is not required to access the
portion of the remote control. Carefully slip the support faulty component(s), perform the disassenlbly steps until
clamp into its recess in the control housing. the desired component is accessible. Reverse the disas-
12. Install the lower back cover and screws (Figure 3). scmbly steps to assemble the remote control.
Securely tighten the screws. Slip the tabs of the small Use compressed air to blow debris from the external
cover into the opening and snap it into position. surfaces prior to disassembling the remote control. Clean
13. Install the control and attaching screws, spacers, all components (except electric switches and the warning
washers and nuts as indicated in Figure 1. Refer to Chap- buzzer) in a suitable solvent and blow them dry with coin-
ter Five and adjust the throttle and shift cables. pressed air. Inspect all components for wear or damage.
14. Connect the negative battery cable. Check for proper Replace any defective components. Apply Suzuki wa-
shift and throttle operation. Correct any problems before ter-resistant grease to all pivot points or sliding surfaces
operating the engine. on assembly. Test all electric components when they have
been removed to ensure proper operation after assembly.
Refer to Chapter Three to test the warning buzzer,
Remote Control Disassembly, switches and other electrical components. Refer to Figure
Inspection and Assembly
6 during disassembly and assembly.
NOTE 1. Disconnect both cables from the battery.
Apply ThreeBoid 1342 (Suzuki part No. 2. Refer to Control Cable Removal and Insta//at~onin
99000-32050) to the threads of the remote this chapter and remove the throttle and shift cables from
control handle nut or bolt on assembly.
the remote control.
Always mark the orientation of all components prior to 3. Disconnect the control wire harness from the eni.' mine.
removing them. This important step can help ensure Route the wire harness away from any boat structure to al-
REMOTE CONTROL 401
Throttle
friction screw
Circlip
Throttle
friction band
@
switch arm
low removal of the remote control and wire harness from

the boat. Place the control on a clean work surface.
Throttle arm
4. Remove the screws from the back cover (Figure 7).
Lift the back cover from the remote control. Refer to the
wiring diagrams located at the end of this manual to iden-
tify the wire colors used for the warning buzzer. Discon-
nect the wires (Figure 8) from the wire harness, then
remove the warning buzzer from the control housing.
5. Identify the wire colors used for the choke, lanyard
stop and ignition switches. Unplug the wire connectors
(Figure 8) from the wire harness. Loosen the attaching
nuts and lift the choke, lanyard stop and ignition switches
from the control housing.
6. Note the wire routing and unplug the wires neutral
switch from the wire harness. Remove the mounting
r^ Cam roller
screws and lift the neutral switch from the control hous-
ing.
7. Loosen the throttle friction screw (Figure 9), then lift
the throttle arm from the control housing. Remove the
cam roller and washers (Figure 10) from the control hous-
ing or throttle arm.
8. Remove the circlip from the throttle friction screw
(Figure 11). Lift the friction band and screw from the con-
trol housing.
9. Remove the screw then lift the neutral switch arm
(Figure 12) from the gear assembly. Lift the spring and
402 CHAPTER TWELVE
Detent roller
@
Neutral position lever
detent roller (Figure 13) from the control housing. Dis-

connect the tiltltrim switch from the wire harness (when
so equipped).
10. Hold the shiftlthrottle handle then loosen the bolt (in
the center of the mechanism) until its head is just above
the mechanism (Figure 14). Using a plastic mallet, tap the
REMOTE CONTROL 403
13. Remove the small retaining screws (Figure 18) then

slide the tiltltrim switch from the shiftlthrottle handle
(Figure 18).
14. Remove the screws then lift the neutral lock cam
(Figure 19) from the control housing. Slowly remove the
screw (Figure 20) from the retainer then lift the retainer,
throttle only roller and spring from the control housing.
15. Note the wire routing then guide the wire harness
from its opening and out of the control housing.
16. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly noting to:
a. Lubricate all pivot points and sliding surfaces with
Suzuki water resistant grease during assembly.
b. Attach the spring to the throttle only roller then in-
stall the roller, spring and retainer as an assembly.
c. Ensure the wire harness and connections are routed
and installed in a manner that prevents them from
contacting any moving components.
d. Connect all wires to the harness at the points noted
prior to removal. Ensure that no wires become
pinched between the back cover on assembly.
e. Securely tighten all fasteners. Standard torque spec-
ifications are listed in the Quick Reference Data
section at the front of the manual.
17. Refer to Control Cable Removal and Installation for
instructions then install the throttle and shift cables into
bolt head to release the shiftlthrottle handle from the the remote control.
mechanism. 18. Operate the shiftlthrottle handle through its entire
11. Lift the gear and cam (Figure 15) then shift lever range of motion (Figure 21) while checking for smooth
(Figure 16) from the control housing. shift and throttle movement. Disassemble, clean and in-
12. Remove the clamp and screws then lift the neutral po- spect all remote control components when binding, loose-
sition lever (Figure 17) and spring from the shiftlthrottle ness or incorrect operation is noted.
handle. 19. Connect the negative battery cable.
A Cylinder Fuel system
block carburetor
Adjustment
assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 76.280 overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187-192
choke solenoid and
cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 66.268 removal and installation . . . 186-187
choke linkage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
component removal . . . . . . 2 58.262 injection system . . . . . . . . . . . 192-198
dashpot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169-170
disassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . 262-266 pump. low pressure . . . . . . . . 183- 185
idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167-169
inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 68.275 Service precautions . . . . . . . . 175-183
neutral-only start cable . . . . . . 170-17 1
head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 44.257 silencer cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185- 186
pilot screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166-167
shift cable and linkage . . . . . . 160-165 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1.52
throttle cable and linkage . . . . 155-160 Fuses and wire harness
D troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 1-82
trim position sender . . . . . . . . 171- 172
trim tab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Dashpot
valve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148-155 adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169-170
Galvanic corrosion . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11- 13

E protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13-14
Battery Electrical Gasket sealant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10-11
maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 22.227 battery. maintenance . . . . . . . . 222-227 Gearcase
charging system . . . . . . . . . . . 2 10-2 14 general procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303
ignition system . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 14-220 inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 1-334
c starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 00-2 10 maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139-14 1
Carburetor warning system . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 20.222 operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 90-291
DF25 and DF30 models wiring diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . 4 06.425 propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 1-292
synchronization . . . . . . . . . 165-166 Electronic fuel injection, shim .
overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187- 192 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . 100- 109 adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339-340
removal and installation . . . . . 186-187 Engine operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 34-339
Charging system . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 10-2 14 service
troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59-63 DF9.9-DF15. . . . . . . . . . . . 3 03-3 10
Choke solenoid and DF15 and DF30 . . . . . . . . . 3 1 0.317
choke linkage adjustment . . . . . . . 169 Fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2.8 DF40 and DF50 . . . . . . . . . 3 17-323
Cooling system Flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229-232 DF60 and DF70 . . . . . . . . . 3 23.33 1
troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90-92 Fuel pump, low pressure . . . . . . 183-185 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92-95
INDEX 405
water pump Power head Tools

inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 break-in procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 basic hand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1-26
service. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 95.302 cylinder block test equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26.28
assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 76.280 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . 35-38
cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266-268 Torque specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
component removal . . . . . . 2 58.262 Trim system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 1-369
Idle speed adjustment . . . . . . . . . 167-169 position sender adjustment . . . 171-172
disassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 62.266
Ignition system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 14.220 tab adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 68.275 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95- 100
troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63-75
cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 44.257 Troubleshooting
flywheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 29-232 charging system . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59-63
maintenance. routine . . . . . . . 126- 136 cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90-92
Linkage removal, installation, electronic fuel injection . . . . . 100-109
shift cable adjustment . . . . . . . 160-165 repair. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 32.244 fuel system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 1-52
throttle cable adjustment . . . . 155-160 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83-90 fuses and wire harness . . . . . . . . 81-82
Propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14.20, 29 1-292 gearcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92-95
Lubricants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-10
ignition system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63-75
outboard engine
M identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33-35
Remote control . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398-403 power head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83.90
Maintenance preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
battery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 22-227 starting
gearcase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139-141 difficulty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38-41
midsection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136-138 Shift cable and linkage starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . 52-59
power head, routine . . . . . . . . 126-136 adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160- 165 test equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35-38
storage preparation . . . . . . . . . 141.142 Silencer cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185-186 trim system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95-100
Manual starter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 4 1.350 warning system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75-80
Starting system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 00.210
wire harness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82-83
Midsection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 69.39 1 difficulty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38.41
Tune-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143-144
maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136-138 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52-59
Storage
preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141.142
Synchronization and Valve adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 148- 155
Neutral-only start cable. adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148-155
adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170- 171 carburetor,
(Â¥-
DF25 and DF30 models . . . 165-166 Warning system . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 20.222
0 troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75-80
Water pump
Outboard engine identification . . . . 33.35 inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302
Test equipment. Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 95.302
troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35-38 Wire harness
P Throttle cable and linkage troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82-83
Pilot screw adjustment . . . . . . . . 166-167 adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155- 160 Wiring diagrams . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 06.425
406 WIRING DIAGRAMS
DF9.9 AND DF15 M ILLER CONTROL

MANUAL START (PR ERIAL NO. 652501)
Oil
Lanyard1 pressure Fuse
20A Battery Diagram Key
stop light
I switch n Connectors
Ground
Â
33 - Frame ground
No connection
Rectifier1
regulator
(120 watt
Y
system)
R
Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Y Yellow
0 Orange
pressure P Pink
B/W BlackIWhite
BIR BlackIRed
~l~wheel- 1 \
WIG WhiteIGreen
Battery charge Ignition
Spark coil (30 & 80 charge coil R/W RedIWhite
. -
uluas watt systems) Rff Red/Yellow
WIRING DIAGRAMS 407
DF9.9 AND DF15 M DELS TILLER CONTROL

MANUAL START (SERIAL NO. 652501-ON)
Neutral Oil
Lanyard1
stop
only
start
pressure
light ST Battery Diagram Key
7- switch switch
Connectors
CDI unit
I Efl Ground
- Frame ground
Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Y Yellow
0 Orange
P Pink
Br Brown
Oil B/W BlackWhite
pressure BIR BlackIRed
switch WIG WhiteIGreen
RAW Redwhite
~l~wheel' \ R N RedNellow
Battery charge Ignition
Spark coil (30 & 80 charge coil UR BlueIRed
plugs watt systems) YIG YellowIGreen
4ns WIRING DIAGRAMS
DF9.9 AND DF15 TILLER CONTROL

ELECTRIC START ( SERIAL NO. 652501)
Oil Neutral
Lanyard1 pressure only Starter Electric Diagram Key
stop light start button starter
switch
n switch connectors
Ground
Â
- Frame ground
a3
+
Connectio
No connection
I Battery
:0
as
AA W White
R Red
c G Green
0 Ã
S 0 L Blue
C 0
-
m Y
0
Yellow
Orange
P Pink
Br Brown
Battery / Ignition
Oil Starter B/W Black~White
charge pressure relay BIR BlackIRed
charge switch
coil WIG WhiteIGreen
Flywheel coil
R/W RedWhite
R/Y RedNellow
Spark
YIG YellowIGreen
Plugs
WIRING DIAGRAMS 409
DF9.9 AND DF15 MODELS TILLER CONTROL

MANUAL START (S L NO. 652501-ON)
Oil Neutral
Lanyard1 Pressure only Starter Electric Diagram Key
stop light start
switch n switch
+ No connection
Battery
Battery / Oil Starter Br Brown

charge pressure relay B/W BlacWhite
coil charge switch BIR Black/Red
Flywheel coil WIG WhiteIGreen
R/W RedWhite
FiN RedNellow
UR BlueIRed
YIG YellowIGreen
410 WIRING DIAGRAMS
DF9.9 AND DF15 MO REMOTE CONTROL
Optional
dash mounted
gauges
TT
I!
Dash
light
switch
WIRING DIAGRAMS 411
Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red
G Green
1 With L Blue
optional Y Yellow
120 watt 0 Orange
I system P Pink
Br Brown
Gr Gray
B W BlacklWhite
BIR BlackIRed
WIG WhiteIGreen
FUW RedWhite
RIG RedIGreen
YIG YellowIGreen
412 WIRING DIAGRAMS
DF25 AND DF30 MODEL TIL ONTROL MANUAL
Low oil
pressure1
Lanyard1 overheat Diagram Key
stop warning light
switch Connectors
@mn
Â
Ground
Frame ground
Connection
-I-
No connection
R
B
R/W
WIB
0
Bff
BIG
WlR
G
I Battery
Br
YIB
v/w
LN
UR
UB
P
B
G
L
0
Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Engine Y Yellow
temperature 0 Orange
sensor P Pink
V Violet
Spark Br Brown
BIG BlackiGreen
Plug Bff BlackNellow
WIB WhitelBlack
WIR White/Red
RiW RediWhite
UB BlueIBlack
UR BlueIRed
LN Blueffellow
YIB YellowIBlack
ViW VioletJWhite
WIRING DIAGRAMS 413
F25 AND DF30 MODEL TILL CONTROL ELECTRIC START
Low oil
pressure1
overheat Neutral
Lanyard1 warning only Starter Diagram Key
stop light start button
switch switch ~onnectors
G) (=\ Z, Ground
T J Â
Frame ground
+ .
Connection
1
No connection
Color Code
B Black
G Green
L Blue
Y Yellow
0 Orange
P Pink
V Violet
Spark Spark Spark Br Brown
plug Plug Plug BIG BlacWGreen
BN Black~Yellow
WIB WhiteIBlack
WIR WhiteIRed
R/W Redwhite
UB BlueIBlack
UR BlueIRed
L/Y BlueNellow
YIB YellowlBlack
V/W VioletlWhite
414 WIRING DIAGRAMS
DF25 AND DF30 MODELS REMOTE CONTROL

(WITHOUT POWER TRIM)
1
I
I
dash mounted I
I
gauges
Dash
light
switch
Harness
connector
WIRING DIAGRAMS 415
Low oil
pressure1
overheat
warning choke
light On'Y solenoid
start
switch I
Ã ‘
I 10- Diagram Key
CDI unit
I I connectors
Ground
Frame ground
No connection
5z
c Ã
Spark Spark Br Brown

Plug BIG BlackIGreen
BIY BlackIYellow
WIB WhiteIBlack
WIR WhiteIRed
RIW ReWhite
LIB BlueIBlack
UR BlueIRed
LN Blue/Yellow
YIB YellowIBlack
VIW VioletWhite
416 WIRING DIAGRAMS
DF25 AND DF30 M DEL REMOTE CONTROL

(WITH POWER TRIM)
ootional n n
Sn^
dash mounted
gauges Meter
W
&mm$
Dash light
switch
I Warning
I Ignition
I switch buzzer
I
t--- ---..---------..
Remote control
Spark Spark Spark
Plug Plug Plug
CDI unit
WIRING DIAGRAMS 419
Fuse Starter Diagram Key

30A relay
Connectors
5 Ground
Frame ground
+ No connection
r'^
Battery
Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Y Yellow
0 Orange
P Pink
V Violet
Br Brown
Sb Sky blue
BIG BlackIGreen
BN BlackNellow
WIB WhiteIBlack
WIR WhiteIRed
fVW ReWhite
UB BluelBlack
UR BlueIRed
UY BlueNellow
YIB YellowlBlack
0lG OrangeIGreen
6
ON OrangeNellow
VIW VioleWhite
Idle air
Lanyard Warning Ignition
control switch buzzer switch
motor
420 WIRING DIAGRAMS
DF40
REMOTE CO
Throttle Air Engine Camshaft Manifold

temp position
sensor sensor
el injectors Fuse fuel connector

15A pump with cover
422 WIRING DIAGRAMS
Throttle
position
switch
Air
temp
sensor
- Manifold
temp
Oil
pressure
switch
Engine
temp
sensor
Neutral
switch
0A
no
Electric Diagnostic
Fuel injectors Fuse fuel connector
15A pump with cover
WIRING DIAGRAMS 423
Color Code
B Black
W White
R Red
G Green
L Blue
Y Yeliow
0 Orange
P Pink
V Violet
Br Brown
sb Sky blue
BIG BlacWGreen
BN BlackNellow
WIB WhiteIBlack
WIR WhitelRed
RiW RedIWhite
30A Electric
.-.- ".. switch buzzer switch
UB
L/R
BlueIBlack
BlueIRed
starter motor
UY BlueNellow
YIB YellowIBlack
0IG OrangeIGreen
ON OrangeNeliow
ViW VioletiWhite
424 WIRING DIAGRAMS
Flywheel
Throttle Air
position temp
switch sensor
with cover

Tools: Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke 1997-2000

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Tools: Suzuki Outboard Shop Manual 9.9-70HP Four Stroke 1997-2000

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General Information

Tools and Techniques

Troubleshooting and Testing

Lubrlcatlon, Maintenance and Tune-up

Syncronlzation and Adjustment

Electrical and lgnitlon

Hydraulic Trfm and Midsection

AND MIDSECT10 .....................................

STANDARD TIGHTENING TORQUE

MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS AND INTERVALS

After each use Flush the cooling system.

Every 50 hours or 3 months Inspect all hoses and clamps.

Every 100 hours or 6 months Inspect all hoses and clamps.

Every 200 hours or 12 months Inspect all hoses and clamps.

Every two years Inspect all hoses and clamps.

Additional maintenance required

Additional maintenance required

* This maintenance item may not apply to all models

ENGINE OIL CAPACITY

GEARCASE LUBRICANT CAPACITY

SPARK PLUG SPECIFICATIONS

This detailed, comprehensive manual con- MANUAL ORGANIZATION

A CAUTION emphasizes areas where equip- 2-stroke Cycle

As the piston travels While the crankshaft

2-STROKE OPERATING PRINCIPLES

As the piston almost

There are many different types of machine Nuts

on bolts, screws and studs with the same diame- Washers

4-stroke Engine Oil

2-stroke Engine Oil

Lubrication for a 2-stroke engine is provided

Gear lubricants are assigned SAE viscosity

range (Figure 3). Some gear lubricants are

Greases are graded by the National Lubricat-

Gasket sealant is used instead of pre-formed

This is a silicone gel supplied in tubes (Figure

on RTV tubes before using and keep partially Anaerobic Sealant

A chemical reaction occurs whenever two

The chemical composition of the metals used

Electrolyte material. If the fastener were to corrode instead

Impressed Current Systems

An impressed current system can be installed

Propeller Design 2. That is, it is the diameter of the circle formed

dicular. Most propellers have rakes ranging from

rather expensive. Stainless steel is more common Cavitation and Ventilation

drives together, the open end and box wrenches Pliers

The screwdriver is a very basic tool, but if

be adjusted to hold various sizes of objects; the

Box and Open-end Wrenches

Box and open-end wrenches are available in

Box wrenches are usually superior to open-

CORRECT WAY TO GRIND BLADE

Combination wrenches, which are open on

An adjustable wrench can be adjusted to fit

This type is undoubtedly the fastest, safest and

the size of the square hole that mates with the

A torque wrench (Figure 9) is used with a

This tool (Figure 10) makes removal of tight

Circlip pliers (sometimes referred to as snap-

The correct hammer is necessary for repairs.

This tool has either flat or wire measuring

Other Special Tools

Some procedures require special tools; these