Nail Treatments Pack 2018

2018
Nail treatments
Champneys Beauty College
4/18/2018
Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Page 1 of 48 © Champneys International College Limited November 2021
2

3
Nail Treatments
Information about the ITEC examination
Manicure treatments are examined within the ‘Aesthetic treatments’

examination. Time allocated 20mins (within the Aesthetics exam)
Pedicure treatments are internally examined
Marks:
Preparation and care of client
Preparation and hygiene of the work area
Shaping of nails
Cuticle work
Massage – including 5 classical movements where appropriate
Nail enamel, finished result
Oral questions
Timing
Aftercare and advice
Economy of products/professionalism/appearance
Theory paper – a multiple choice paper, duration 20minutes. Pass mark 60%

4
Introduction
The Purpose of Manicure/Pedicure
This is a cosmetic treatment for the hands and fingernails. A professional
manicure is performed by a qualified manicurist, Aesthetician or Beauty
Therapist. DEFINITION
A manicure consists of shaping and filing the free edge of the nail,
The word ‘Manicure’ is derived from
softening and then tidying the cuticle before massaging the muscles of the
the French meaning "care of the
lower arm and hand. The manicure is completed with attention to the
hands"
aesthetic appearance of the fingernails; either by buffing to a shine or the
Latin origins:
application of nail enamel.
Manus = "hand" Cura = "care"
A professional application of nail enamel will last at least a week.
Variations on finish
Basic paint- 1 application of base coat, 2 application of colour, 1
HISTORY
application of top coat (if pearlised a 3rd application may be applied The manicure began over 5,000 years
instead of the top coat). ago in India, when women used
French manicure - uses a flesh tone nail enamel with a dense white tip henna to colour nails. In Babylonia,
across the free edge of the nail. 4,000 years ago, solid gold tools were
American manicure - this is similar to a French manicure but uses stronger used to create gorgeous looking nails
colours for the nail plate and free edge. - creating the whole process of the
Nail Art: Nail art uses different techniques and patterns to create manicure.
individualised artwork on the finger nails. Techniques are many and varied Nail polish was developed in China in
including the texture of the nail through the application of gems and 3,000 BC, the length and colour
rhinestones. (most elite colours were red and
Nail jewellery. This requires a small hole to be drilled in the nail to attach black nail enamel) was used as a
an item of jewellery allowing it to dangle from the free edge of the nail. Or symbol of status. Using nail polish
precious gems to be glued onto the nail. Artificial 18 carat gold nails are colours to establish rank in society
also considered to be nail jewellery. was also used in ancient Egypt;
Shaping the nail plate for an aesthetic finish. Cleopatra and Queen Nefertiti used
Although some nail shapes will be more suited to specific shaped and sized deep shades of red.
hands, fashion extends to nail shapes and this will be a consideration to
both the therapist and the client. In ancient Egypt and Rome, the
When filling nails, the most pleasing aesthetic result is for all nails to be the commanders in the military would
same length. paint their nails (to match the colour
worn on their lips) before heading
Finished Nail Shapes into battle.
The French manicure first made an
appearance in the 18th century Paris.
The signature white tip and natural
pink base became extremely popular
during the 1920s and 1930s and has
had a resurgence in popularity in the
21st Century
Treatment time and
Almond Squoval Square Round Oval variations
Basic manicure - 30 minutes
File and Polish - 15 minutes
Mini manicure - file, massage and
polish - 20 minutes
Deluxe manicures - Hot oil
Paraffin wax - 45 minutes
Hand mask with thermal mitts –
45mins

5
The Healthy Therapist

In each area we will look at maintaining the therapists health - avoiding repetitive strain injury and ensuring longevity
in your career. In each treatment it is important that you ensure your working position is optimised for correct
posture, minimising any strain on the skeletal or muscular system. As a therapist it is your responsibility to ensure that
you adjust equipment to meet your personal needs.
Seating - it is imperative that the therapists maintains a good posture throughout the treatment - therefore attention
must be paid to the seating arrangements. Check the height of the workstation - if it is adjustable, adjust it to meet
your needs.
The therapists stool: make sure this is adjusted to the correct height before working - straddling feet either side of a
stool will immediately change your posture and put you in a more upright position. Make sure your feet remain on the
floor- they should not be crossed or resting on the legs of the seat or table as this alters the position of the back
causing strain on the muscles.
The client - Move the client firmly but in a caring way to ensure they are in a position that maximises your posture and
ability to treat effectively. If you are comfortable you will give a much better treatment.
What is expected of the Manicurist?
The manicurist should:
Prepare client and the area hygienically,
Recognise contra-indications and adapt the treatment where necessary by examining the hands and /or feet, note any
contraindications and give advice
Plan the treatment with the client, manage the client’s expectations of the treatment.
Perform nail treatments safely, effectively, hygienically and to a commercial standard on a variety of clients.
Understand the key ingredients in nail/skin products for hands/feet and the precautions when handling and storing
them
Have knowledge of the anatomy and physiology of the hands, arms, legs, feet and nails.
Optimise opportunities to give information and advice to clients regarding products and services.
Contraindications
Any contagious disease or infection present such as:
Nail fungi e.g. tinea ungium on the hands or feet
Tinea pedis (athletes foot)- on the feet
Onychia (bacteria) hands or feet
Warts (viral) on the hands
Verrucas (warts) on the feet
Scabies
Cut, bruises and fractures
Rashes, bites, stings and burns
Undiagnosed lumps or swellings
New scar tissue
Care with arthritis and rheumatism
Care with a diabetic clients – paint only, if a pedicure is requested
Eczema or psoriasis are contraindicated only when it is at its worst, with broken skin. Mild cases generally benefit from
a treatment, particularly if they include a special moisturising treatment
Corns and calluses are not contraindicated but for specific treatment of these conditions, a chiropodist or doctor
should be consulted
Where manicure/pedicure ends and chiropody begins
A pedicure can be performed, but corns and calluses and extensive hard skin especially if fissures are present require
specific treatment
Deformed nails (onychogryphosis) or in-growing nails
Full pedicures on diabetic clients should not be performed. The health service provides free chiropody services. A
therapist may paint the nails if requested.
Precautions
Do not work over a contraindicated area. If in doubt, refer or request doctor’s permission to carry out a treatment
Referral procedures
NB. Under no circumstances must a therapist diagnose any medical condition.
When there is a medical condition that may contraindicate a treatment, the therapist should be tactful when
discussing this with the client. There are some medical conditions when medical permission is required before

6
treatment is carried out. It is the responsibility of the client to obtain permission for treatment from the GP or
specialist, preferably in the form of a letter, which may then be kept with the client’s records.
It may be advisable to refer the client to another practitioner such as a chiropodist, for treatment of corns, calluses
and bunions, in growing nails etc.
Manicure tools and use

Emery boards
 Emery boards are used to reshape and file the nails. Always use the an emery type- metal files are harsh
 The fine side is used in manicure the coarser side for pedicure
Orange sticks
 Used tipped to apply buffing paste and cuticle remover and cream
 Used tipped to push back cuticles in small circular movements and clean under the free edge
 Used tipped to remove any traces of enamel
Cuticle knife
 They are used to remove excess cuticle adhering to the nail plate
 They must always be used wet to protect the nail plate
 They are held at 45% to prevent scratching, with the blade on its side, moving outside to centre in small
circles and then reversed
Cuticle nippers
 Used to remove hangnails from around the cuticle
 Hold firmly, cutting the hangnail cleanly, without pulling
 Do not cut live cuticle as it will overgrow and become thickened
Nail scissors
 Used for longer nails to cut the free edge prior to filing
Nail clippers (pedicure)

 Used to reduce length of toe nails prior to filing
Nail buffer
 A cushioned leather pad
 Used with the tiniest amount buffing paste to smooth out surface irregularities and achieve a shine to the nail
plate
 A buffer should be used in one direction only, at moderate speed, from cuticle to free edge
Hoof stick
 Plastic with a rubber or plastic hoof shaped end piece
 Used for moulding around the cuticle to ensure the cuticles are loosened
Nail brush
 A small brush is used with warm water and nail soak to remove product residue
 The nails are individually brushed with warm water from matrix to free edge, then dried with tissue

7
Damage caused by incorrect use of manicure and pedicure tools

Excessive pressure on the lunula during cuticle work will cause damage to the nail growth.
Splitting and ingrown nails caused by filing into sidewall.
Cross infection, by using un-sterilised instruments.
Lifting of the nail plate, bacterial infection or soreness can be caused by using sharp instruments or undue pressure
under free edge.
Scratched nail plate - an un-tipped orange stick or a dry cuticle
Infection around the cuticle - nicking the skin when trimming cuticles.
Nail Products and their ingredients

Nail Product Functions Main ingredient:
Cuticle remover Cuticle remover is an alkaline lotion used Potassium hydroxide

to remove cuticle or dead skin cells, which
may be attached to the nail plate.
Recommended use, once a week only as it
can be drying to the nail.
Nail enamel Used to remove nail enamel effectively Solvents e.g. Acetone or ethyl acetate
remover without drying the nail excessively Glycerol to counteract the drying effect
Cuticle cream Used to soften and nourish the cuticles and Fats and waxes e.g. beeswax, cocoa butter, soft white
replace lost oils, enabling the cuticles to be paraffin
pushed back with ease
Base coat A base coat is applied to the nail prior to A base coat is applied to the nail prior to the nail enamel in
the nail enamel in order to: order to:
Prevent the pigment from the nail enamel Prevent the pigment from the nail enamel staining the nail
staining the nail Increases the durability of the enamel
Increases the durability of the enamel Helps the enamel to adhere better
Helps the enamel to adhere better Minimizes irregularities of the nail plate
Minimizes irregularities of the nail plate
Nail enamel Enhance the appearance of the nails Film formers e.g. Nitrocellulose - forms a plastic film.
(lacquer or Protects the nails Resins e.g. aryl sulphonamide, formaldehyde – make the
varnish) Compliments an outfit film adhere to the nail plate
Plasticiser e.g. castor oil – help to keep the polish flexible
(linking polymer chains)
Solvent e.g. ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, amyl acetate, or
alcohol. – used to help create a uniform product with the
other ingredients. The type and amount determines the
thickness of the product.
Pigments – natural or synthetic e.g. iron oxides
Guanane (fish scales) - colour used to achieve a pearlised
effect
Bismuth oxychloride – used to give a pearlised effect to
enamel
Pearls e.g. titanium oxide or ground mica, plastic glitter –
create a shimmery effect
Thickening agent e.g. Stearalkonium hectorite used to
prevent the other ingredients from separating and make
application easier.
UV filters e.g. benozophenone-1 Used to help prevent
discoloration when the product is exposed to light
Buffing cream Polish or buff the nail plate as opposed to Abrasives e.g. stannic oxide, silica powder, kaolin, pumice
enamelling them The base e.g. isopropyl, mineral oil, white soft paraffin,
paraffin wax
Nail hardeners / To help prevent the nail becoming fragile, Formalin, alum, acrylic, nylon fibres
strengtheners over brittle or splitting. Applied prior to the
base coat. Avoid the cuticle and nail wall
otherwise dryness will result.
Nail bleaches To whiten stained and discoloured nails Hydrogen peroxide, hypochlorite’s

8
Nail mending To repair split and torn nails and to Adhesive, solvent, fibre reinforcing material
products reinforce fragile tips
Consultation
The therapist should always perform a consultation regardless of whether the Client is new, or existing.
The reasons: Checking for Contra indications - check verbally and by looking to ensure there are no CI - the client’s
health and condition is in flux and therefore the therapist should check regularly.
Assessment of the hands and nails.

Before starting the manicure or pedicure an assessment should be made of the hands or feet and the condition of
the nails. This should be performed before the treatment and recorded on the treatment card. the manicure can
then be adjusted, with approval from the client, to meet their needs e.g. Oil manicure for dry cuticles, or additional
cuticle work in exchange for some massage time. A thorough assessment at the beginning of the treatment mean
will save time and mean fewer mistakes.
Hands and Feet

Size: Large, average, small.
Shape: Are the hands/feet wide, slim, muscular, bony? Are the fingers/toes long, short, slender, thick, stubby? Are the
toes hammer toes, pigeon toes, short, long? Are knuckles or veins prominent? Is there any deformity of the
hands/feet arthritis, bunions?
Skin: Check the condition of the skin – is it dry, coarse, average, fine, delicate, sensitive? Record skin disorders which
may be treated, e.g. callouses, stains, hard skin. Check for torn skin around the cuticle.
Nails
Conditions/disorders: Bitten, split or brittle, blue nails, minor corrugated furrows, stains. Condition and length of the
free edge.
Size: Large, average, small; long, medium, short.
Shape: Wide, narrow, fat, tunneled. The current shape of the filled nails- is it the best shape to enhance the nails?
Cuticles: Free, adhered, short, overgrown, hard, cracked, torn, split, hang nails. Note done how much knife and nipper
work will be required – will you need to adjust the manicure?
When looking at the condition of the hands and nails it is good to keep a record of their condition as this enables the
therapist to see changes as the result of the treatments or the retail products or a change in the clients life style.
Changes can occur at any time - it is always the therapist’s responsibility to check not the clients to inform
Checking the condition of the nails and hands - What to look for
Condition of Appearance Cause Products/ Treatments Home care Avoid

Nail Plate
Dry nails Dry nails lack lustre look dull Moisturizing base coat to rehydrate Use hand washes Pearlised polish
with vitamin E not soap
Brittle nails Gently press sides of nails No moisture left Oil manicure -Almond oil, nail Nightly cream NO nail hardener,
together, nail does not bend, therefore no and hand cream. The shape of glove it makes the nail
a history of shattering easily flexibility nails will also add strength even more rigid
Damaged Flaking or splitting caused by severe Base coat to heal the nail, stipple
nails dehydration to prevent air bubbles forming
under the polish and stop flaking
Soft nails Nails bend at the slightest Apply a nail hardener or oil of Keep out of water,
touch elemi any oil will help will increase softness
Normal nails Nails bend slightly when Moisturizing them regularly with Avoiding harsh
pressed, look pink and shiny hand creams detergents and
and will grow easily overly hot water

9
Filing Discuss with the client the best shape for the nails. A better appearance will be created if the nails are all
one length.
Always use an emery board, held at a 45-degree angle to the free edge (use the pale side for manicure and the dark
side for pedicure) – use the entire length of the emery board holding firmly at one end.
Always file in toward the centre of the nail – don’t file backwards and forwards (sawing) as this
causes the layers of the nail to split.
CAUTION - Filing into the corners of the nails can cause in growing nails and weakens the side of
the nails leading to weakness and breaking of the nail as it grows.
CAUTION - Filing to a point also weakens the nail and may cause breakage.
The ideal shape is oval; the strongest is square: the weakest shape is pointed
To complete the filing, bevel the nail, using the file tip at a 45-degree to remove any nail
residue from the free edge. Also check under the free edge
Speed filing - To build up speed when filing the therapist/ manicurist should hold the finger in such a way that it
supports the file. By resting the file on the therapist/ manicurist’s own hand it facilitates the ease at which the
therapist/ manicurist can return to the original position allowing filing to be done at speed rather than having to find
the free edge on each return.
Buffing
Effects of buffing
Gives lustre to the nails – it is used at the end of a gentleman’s manicure.
Increases circulation brining nutrients to the nail bed improving health and growth of the nail plate.
Regular buffing smooth the surface of the nail due to the abrasiveness of the buffing paste – over time this is
especially good for minor furrows in the nail.
Indications for buffing

 Client may be allergic to nail enamel
 Nails in poor condition e.g. bitten or flaky nails
 Male clients
 Enamel may be inappropriate for a profession
 To give a healthy sheen etc.
 To minimize superficial ridges – over time
 Poor circulation
 To remove stains from the nail plate – over time
Procedure for buffing

Apply a small amount of buffing paste to the nail with the flat end of a hoof stick – use the buffer in one direction only
from the matrix to the free edge. Take care not to cause any friction on the nail and the surrounding tissue. Check
regularly to ensure no heat is being produced.

10
Sequence for finger rotation in manicure

Generally the manicure sequence starts on the client’s working hand
Finger Sequence for Left handed Manicurists Finger Sequence for RIGHT handed Manicurists
LEFT hand RIGHT hand

Order of Work Order of Work
1. Thumb 1. Thumb
2. Little finger 2. Little finger
3. Ring finger 3. Ring finger
4. Middle finger 4. Middle finger
5. Index finger 5. Index finger
RIGHT hand LEFT hand

Order of Work
1. Thumb Order of Work
2. Index finger 1. Thumb
3. Middle finger 2. Index finger
4. Ring finger 3. Middle finger
5. Little finger 4. Ring finger
5. Little finger
Applying nail enamel

Application of nail enamel - the correct way to apply nail enamel stems from the use of ordinary nail enamel - Many
product houses have adapted their products to allow variations on the application. You will learn the traditional form
of nail painting to ensure that you maximise the aesthetic appearance, the durability and the long lasting results of the
finished manicure.
A professional manicurist applies 4 coats of nail enamel.
1 application of base coat - to protect the nail plate and prevent staining.
2 applications of the chosen colour - the first application of colour is the most tricky to ensure a through coverage of
the nail plate, close to the cuticle without flooding the nail groove, the cuticle of applying any to the surrounding skin.
1 application of Top coat - to give a shine
If using a pearlised enamel - the top coat is replaced with a third application of the nail enamel.
Apply a liquid or spray quick-dry product.
Advise client to sit for at least 20 minutes if possible
NB: Enamel is touch dry within 20 minutes but it takes up to 24 hours for the enamels to fully dry and
achieve a final hard set. Setting of the nail enamel is a slow process which makes for good flexibility.

11
How to apply nail enamel.

Roll the bottle in your hands rather than shake the bottle up and down, this prevents nail enamel going into the neck
of the bottle and up the stem of the brush.
With each dip into the bottle swirl the nail brush around the bottle to remove excess nail enamel from the brush and
scrape off excess nail enamel from the far side of the brush, leaving a controllable amount left on the brush.
The table below shows how to achieve a professional finish, getting close to the cuticle. The initial application of
colour is the most precise and takes the longest to perform.
How to apply nail enamel

1.
Slowly and carefully push the brush towards the cuticle - fanning
the brush out slightly will help. Then ease the brush towards the
cuticle as close as possible - leaving the smallest of gaps.
2.
Draw the brush backwards to the tip of the nail ensure you cover
the edge.
3.
Repeat the move slowly on the side slowly edging towards the
cuticle and lining up with the first stroke to create a continuous line.
4.
Draw up to the edge of the nail ensuring the edge is covered.
5.
Repeat on step 3 the other side
6.
Repeat step 4 on the other side

12
Hazards of nail enamel- the client could HAVE an allergy to one of the ingredients, particularly formaldehyde resin,
found in nail enamel, which may cause irritation, swelling, or inflammation,
Qualities of a good nail enamel
1. Does not stain the nails or skin
2. Flexibility
3. Does not damage or dry out the nails
4. Adherent and lasting
5. Good coverage
6. Correct viscosity
7. Enamel retains its colour when applied
8. High gloss
Causes of Chipping Nail Enamel
1. No base coat
2. Flaking nail conditions
3. Nail enamel too thin
4. Forced drying
5. Unclean nail plate– oil on the nail
Causes of Flaking Nail Enamel
1. Unclean nail plate– oil on the nail
2. Enamel too thick
3. Second coat applied too quickly
4. Incorrect use of quick drying top coat
Bottle Care
A good therapist looks after their tools to ensure a long lasting nail enamel and ensure
that the therapist can open the bottle on each occasion for use care and attention should
be given to cleaning the bottle and the brush.
An inspection of the bottle neck and brush should be made at each use, to keep the cap
and neck free from nail enamel before it dries making it difficult to open: if required this
should be cleaned with a tissue (cotton wool will leave fibres) soaked in enamel remover
and if necessary clean the brush and inside the lid removing any enamel form the grooves
inside the bottle lid.

13
Tools and equipment required to perform Manicure/pedicure (pedicure marked*).

 Nail clippers
 Scissors
 Rubber or plastic hoof stick
 Cuticle knife
 Cuticle nippers
 Chamois buffer
 Finger bowl
 Nail brush
 Toe nail clippers *
 Hard skin remover implement, rasp/grater*
 Large foot bowl*
 Lined bin
 Dappen dish- half filled with water for cuticle knife work
Disposables
 Manicure cushion covered with five split sheets of tissue (eight for deluxe). For pedicure, 10 sheets
of tissue (not split). Ensure cushion is covered with cling film for pedicure*
 Emery board
 1 x double ended tipped orange stick
 Folded tissues
 Bowl of cotton wool discs
 Disposable toe separators made from twisted tissue*
 Disposable gloves*(CIDESCO term only)
Products
 Nail enamel remover
 Cuticle cream and /or oil
 Buffing paste
 Cuticle remover
 Hand lotion /cream
 Base coat
 Choice of enamels to compliment
 Top coat
 Quick dry (spray and paint on)
 Sanitising wipes or fluid e.g. steritane
 Foot deodorant spray*
 Manicure soak and pedicure foot soak*
 Nail strengtheners
 Ridge fillers
 Nail white pencil
 Exfoliant for hands and feet
 Nail repair kit
Manicure routine
1. Treatment time 30mins
2. Set up the workstation
3. Greet and seat the client comfortably and remove all jewellery
4. Wipe the client’s hands with deodorising wipes, one for each hand to avoid any cross infection

14
5. Remove enamel from both client’s hands with a cotton wool disc and enamel remover. Hold the
cotton wool disc at the tips of your 1st and 2nd fingers
6. Switch on the magnifying lamp and angle it to improve the light over the working area
7. Commence consultation checking for contra indications Identify any contraindications and modify
treatment if necessary
8. Ask the client to choose the enamel colour and check its consistency (Note RED enamel for exams)
9. Wash your hands and collect tools from autoclave, sanitising (Vircon) bath or UV cabinet
10. Starting on non -working hand, file nails and if necessary cut the nails for the desired shape, work
from side to centre and bevel.
11. Apply cuticle cream using the flat end of the hoof stick and massage into the cuticles (thumb and
little finger, index and ring finger, middle and thumb), place to soak in nail bowl
12. Repeat stages 10 – 11 on client’s working hand
13. Remove and dry the non–working hand. Apply cuticle remover with cotton wool tipped orange
stick, directly onto the cuticle, clean under free edge.
14. Using a rubber tipped hoof stick gently but firmly, push back the cuticles working from side to
centre in a circular movement.
15. Work under tissue to ensure hygienic conditions at all times
16. Wet the cuticle knife in dapping dish, and with the knife on its side at an angle of 45%, blade
towards centre, loosen any excess traces of cuticle, gently lifting underneath the cuticle with flat
edge of knife. Move from right side to centre, turn the blade, then left side to centre. Place any
removed cuticle onto a harmony wipe dampened with anti-bacterial solution (Steritane)
17. Dry around cuticles with tissue, throw couch roll away then with cuticle nippers, remove any loose
cuticle and hang nails around the cuticle (cut and release – no pulling). Discard onto harmony wipe
and couch roll.
18. Repeat stages 11 - 15 on working hand
19. Perform hand and arm (to elbow) massage with hand lotion or cream
20. ‘Squeak‘ the nails. Nails may be wiped with cotton wool soaked in nail enamel remover but this
dehydrates the nail plate unless an acetone free remover is used
21. An alternative is to brush the nails (dipped in nail soak) to remove any grease on both hands, and
then dry thoroughly to ensure all grease is removed, pushing back the cuticles at the same time
22. Use hoof stick to tidy any file residue from under the nails; check filing on each hand
23. Starting with working hand, and working from left to right, apply base coat, colour and topcoat.
Wait a minute or two between each application Please note: For client sessions the client chooses
the colour. For exams red is used.
24. This is an appropriate time for the client to put their jewellery back on.
25. Apply cuticle oil to nails ask client to raise their hands so that fingers are pointing downwards, with
the dropper place a drop of oil at the cuticle edge of the nail and allow oil to cover nail surface.
Alternatively apply a quick dry product
26. An alternative to painting is a buffed finish if they do not wish to have varnish
27. Advise the client to wait 20 minutes before leaving.
28. Wash hands thoroughly after treatment
Hand and arm massage routine

1. Effleurage to forearm from fingertips to elbow alternating from medial to lateral three times
2. Ensure client’s arm is always supported and not held in the air
3. Apply kneading to forearm using thenar part of thumb

15
4. Up Medial side (little finger) to elbow slide down to carpals (wrist) x3

5. Up lateral side (thumb) to elbow slide down to carpals x3
6. Using fingertips to support hand, slow thumb frictions to carpals of the wrist (one thumb following
the other) from one side of the wrist across to the other and back
7. Supporting with the hand with fingertips, thumb frictions between metacarpals working from
thumb across to little finger
8. Starting with little finger, thumb kneading to phalange joints, then give traction and rotate in each
direction x3 finishing by sliding off the finger with vibrations, repeat to all fingers and thumb.
9. Deep alternate thumb kneading to palm of hand- working over the thenar, hypothenar muscles.
10. Interlace hand with client’s hand, supporting with the other. Flex and extend wrist slowly three
times. Rotate three times each way
11. Effleurage to forearm from fingertips to elbow alternating from medial to lateral three times
12. Repeat massage to second hand.
TREATMENT AFTERCARE
Allow the enamel to dry for at least 20 minutes, longer if possible. Even after 20 minutes the enamel will
not be hard enough to resist knocks or scraps when rummaging in a handbag or purse. It takes up to 24
hours for all 4 layers of enamel to harden.
Homecare advice
To maintain healthy nails, the client, when not attending the salon will improve the condition of their nails
at home, so important advice is very important such as:
 Protect the nails from detergents and household chemicals
 Wear gloves when outside in winter or working in the garden
 Avoid using the nails as tools
 File the nails correctly using an emery board and not a metal file as these may cause the nails to flake
 Use hand cream after immersing the hands in water and cuticle massage cream and hand cream at night
 Use a nail strengthener /hardener and keep nails short and rounded if weak
 Attend to nails between manicures, but avoid overuse of polish, and avoid harsh enamel removers
 A base coat should always be worn to protect the nail
 The nails should not be bitten and the cuticles should not be picked
 Make sure the diet is well balanced and includes all the necessary vitamins and minerals, including
the B complex, A and D, calcium, phosphorus, iron and zinc.
FUTURE TREATMENTS
 Regular manicures
 Hot oil manicure
 Paraffin wax manicure
 Hand mask with thermal mitts manicure

16
Retail Products
 Nail and cuticle cream
 Nail strengtheners
 Nail oil
 Cotton gloves
 Hand and foot cream.
Care of the manicure trolley/sterilisation of small implements
The trolley / area should be clean, organised and tidy with tools in a tissue pouch or glass.
Metal and plastic implements should be washed in hot soapy water, rinse and dry first, then immerse in an
autoclave or if not suitable sterilising fluid (‘Vircon’ or alcohol), or wipe with alcohol wipe, then place in
sanitiser (UVC cabinet).
Wooden implements e.g. emery boards, orange sticks should be disposed of.
Pedicure routine
Treatment time 45mins (ITEC 40mins)
1. Check for contra-indications by wiping over both with steritane
2. Remove old enamel from both feet
3. Cut (nail clippers/pliers) and file (use darker side of emery board) nails straight across of left foot
4. Support left foot (in a professional way) use foot rasp to remove superficial hard skin using a
rasp/grater (ensure bedroll covers towel).
5. Apply foot scrub/exfoliator to skin and work all over foot in circular movements, remove with mitts
and warm water.
6. Apply cuticle cream using the flat end of the hoof stick and massage into the cuticles (big toe and
little toe, 2nd and fourth toes, middle and big toe), place to left foot to soak in foot spa.
Repeat steps 3 to 6 to right foot
7. Remove the left foot from water and dry thoroughly, discard couch roll.
8. Apply cuticle remover with cotton wool tipped orange stick, directly onto the cuticle, clean under
free edge.
9. Using a rubber tipped hoof stick gently but firmly, push back the cuticles working from side to
centre in a circular movement.
10. Work under tissue to ensure hygienic conditions at all times
11. Wet the cuticle knife in dapping dish, and with the knife on its side at an angle of 45°, blade
towards centre, loosen any excess traces of cuticle, gently lifting underneath the cuticle with flat
edge of knife. Move from right side to centre, turn the blade, then left side to centre. Place any
removed cuticle onto a harmony wipe dampened with anti-bacterial solution (steritane)
12. Dry around cuticles with couch roll, roll away excess cuticle, then with cuticle nippers, remove loose
cuticle and hang nails around the cuticle (cut and release – no pulling). Discard onto harmony wipe
and couch roll.
Carry out steps 7 to 12 to the right foot
13. Give a massage to lower leg demonstrating correct technique for each of the 5 swedish movements
14. Use nail varnish remover to squeak nails
15. Place toe separators or tissue in between toes
16. Keep feet flat when enamelling to prevent the enamel running into the cuticles, ask client to bend
their knees
17. Enamel nails: basecoat x 1, colour x 2, topcoat x 1. Start with big toe working out.

17
18. Apply cuticle oil to nails ask client to raise their hands so that fingers are pointing downwards, with
the dropper place a drop of oil at the cuticle edge of the nail and allow oil to cover nail surface.
Alternatively apply a quick dry product. Remember shoes can smudge polish easily. Ask client to
wait as long as possible before replacing shoes
19. Wash hands thoroughly after treatment
Advise the client to wait 20 minutes before leaving.
Foot and leg massage
1. Effleurage foot to knee with alternate hands x 3

2. Apply kneading from ankle to knee,
o Up Tibialis Anterior slide down x 3
o To medial head of Gastrocnemius, slide down x 3
o To lateral head of Gastrocnemius, slide down x 3
3. Apply tapotement to back of lower leg
o Pinching to Gastrocnemius
o Cupping to Gastrocnemius
4. Finger and thumb frictions around tarsals
5. Thumb frictions between metatarsals – start big toe end at little toe
6. Frictions to Phalanges. Starting with little toe, thumb kneading to phalange joints, then give traction
and rotate in each direction x3 finishing by sliding off the toe with vibrations, repeat to all toes.
7. Thumb kneading to sole of foot x 3 from heel to ball of foot slide down (Palm tree)
8. Palmer knead medial arch of foot (instep)
9. Effleurage foot to knee with alternate hands x 3
BENEFITS AND EFFECTS OF MASSAGE

Increases circulation
Rotations-circular movements to the joints, aid suppleness and mobility
Relaxes the client
Relaxes tense, tired aching muscles
Increases blood circulation and removal of waste, therefore skin colour is improved
Aid desquamation
Softens and moisturises the skin
Aids joint mobility and suppleness

18
Dry pedicure procedure (usually carried out when a client is already on the couch (i.e. a facial)
1. Check for contra-indications
2. Ensure client is comfortable and warm
3. Wash hands thoroughly
4. Set up your area as normal (excluding the bowl of warm soapy water to wash the feet)
5. You will need a towel and 8 split sheets of couch roll
6. 10 squares of cotton wool, dampened in warm/hot water will be required for individually
soaking the toes
7. Spray soles/top of feet and between toes with a germicidal/fungicidal foot spray
8. Remove the nail varnish on one foot, cut and file the nails
9. Apply cuticle massage cream
10. Place warm/hot cotton wool squares, securely around each toe
11. Repeat routine as for normal pedicure
12. When painting, ask client to place foot flat on the bed to avoid enamel running into cuticle
Treatment aftercare
Allow the enamel to dry for at least 20 minutes, longer if possible
Do not put feet into shoes after a pedicure, wear toe-less sandals or flip flops. It takes up to 24 hours for
the enamel to be hard
HOMECARE ADVICE
To maintain healthy nails, the client can improve the condition of their nails at home, so homecare advice is
very important:
 File the nails correctly using the dark side of an emery board and not a metal file as these may cause the nails
to flake.
 When filing toes nails file them square to lessen in growing nails.
 Change shoes frequently
 Use foot cream to prevent cracking heels and dry cuticles.
 A base coat should always be worn to protect the nail.
FUTURE TREATMENTS
 Regular Pedicures,
 Paraffin wax Pedicure
 Foot mask with heated booties Pedicure
Retail Products
 Foot deodorant/talc
 Nail and cuticle cream
 Foot cream
 Base coat

19
Additional hand and foot treatments

Thermal mitten treatment:
A nourishing/ moisturising treatment for hands/feet and nails, using cling film and thermostatically
controlled mittens. The effects are similar to paraffin wax treatments.
Exfoliation treatment:
Using special exfoliating cream or salt rub it is desquamating, stimulating, softening and refining to the skin.
French manicure
The nails are painted a pale beige or pink and the free edge (nail tip) is painted white to give the nails a
natural and healthy look. It is ideal for a bride or someone who prefers a natural look. – It can also be
applied to the toes.
Application of enamel
1. Perform normal manicure up to the painting stage
2. Apply a base coat
3. Apply one coat French manicure base colour -barely beige or pink.
4. Apply the white enamel to the free edge (tip) only
5. Apply a second coat of the colour
6. Apply topcoat
American Manicure
As French manicure but using bold colours.
Nail repairs
Types of nail repairs:
Paper, Silk, Adhesive
Paper nail repairs
Used to repair broken nails, reinforce splitting, peeling or fragile nails and to protect soft and weak nails
Procedure
1. Clean nail surface with enamel remover
2. Tear off (do not cut) the amount of nail mender tissue, required to cover the break, plus enough to
fold under nail
3. Place mender tissue on facial tissue an saturate with nail mender adhesive
4. Using cuticle stick place wet side down on nail break
5. Dip cuticle stick into nail enamel remover (to prevent tissue from sticking to stick) and blend nail
mender tissue onto nail
6. Add an extra dab of adhesive to the tissue that extends beyond nail an tuck extension securely
under nail
7. Moisten a finger with remover, gently smooth patch, working away from nail edge
8. Apply nail mender adhesive under nail to ensure adherence and let patch dry
9. Apply nail mender tissue across the nail and around sides (where splitting and peeling occur).
Ensure the ends of the tissue extend beyond both sides of nail and tuck under nail
10. A second patch may be applied if break is severe

20
To mend broken nail

1. Apply mender adhesive directly to broken edge
2. Match edge with fingernail and hold in position until it bonds -adhesive dries fast
3. Place nail mender tissue, directly over break, to act as a brace. Tuck under nail
4. Apply second patch for strength.
5. N.B. The patch can last as the nail grows out; when removing the nail enamel work gently with the
remover around the area
Silk nail repairs
Procedure
1. Clean nails with polish remover
2. Select size – silk can be cut with scissors to exact size of nail if necessary
3. Apply to nail – adhesive backing allows easy re-positioning for perfect fit prior to gluing
4. Use fine emery board with light downward strokes to cut excess silk off
5. Coat with two applications of glue
6. Allow to dry thoroughly
7. After drying, buff and shine with buffer
8. Re-apply silk as necessary
Glue
Glue can be used as a quick repair,
Apply with an orange stick to nail
Press lightly with finger to stick
If finger sticks swivel off, do not pull
Buff lightly to smooth and shine
Other hand and foot treatments

Warm oil manicure/pedicure
Ideal for dry, dehydrated nail and skin conditions and may be used as often as required.
The effects include:
Moisturises and softens dry cuticles.
Moisturises flaky, dry nails.
Smoothes, soothes and moisturises dry skin.
Warmth of the oil increases circulation, therefore helpful for blue nails and poor circulation.
Warmth of the oil increases circulation to the matrix, therefore the growth of nails is enhanced.
Procedure
1. Select appropriate oil e.g. almond oil
2. Heat safely to a comfortable temperature
3. The treatment is carried out after the cuticle work and before the arm/hand massage
4. Apply a scrub to the lower arm and hand/ lower leg and foot. Work over skin in circular
movements, remove using mitts. (Desquamating, stimulating, softening and refining)
5. Check temperature on self before the client

21
6. Soak the hands for 10-15 minutes

7. The oil may be used to perform the massage
Deluxe manicure/pedicure treatments

Paraffin wax
Treatment times: Manicure 45mins, Pedicure 60mins
The effects include:

Nourishes and moisturises the skin and nails.
Improves flaky nail and dry skin conditions.
Improves poor circulation and skin colour.
Increases joint mobility, ideal for arthritic conditions.
Deep cleansing and desquamating.
Softens skin texture.
Preparation
 Prior to treatment melt paraffin wax to 48% - this can take up to 30 –45 minutes
 An infra red heat lamp may be used if desired, to retain heat longer (45-60 cm distance)
 Cover area with two sheets of couch roll
 Two pieces of foil (hand size)
 Two towels
 One bowl covered with foil for wax
 One small paintbrush.
 One large bowl and mitts
Procedure
 Complete the manicure/pedicure treatment up to and including the cuticle work
 Apply a scrub to the lower arm and hand/ lower leg and foot. Work over skin in circular
 Apply a rich moisturising cream to hands and nails/ foot and toes
 Place first hand/foot and in the middle of the foil
 Test the wax on self, then client
 Paint the paraffin wax carefully over the front of the hand/foot starting at the wrist/ankle.
 Turn client’s hand / lift foot to complete
 Build up 2–3 layers of wax on all areas
 Wrap the foil around the hand/foot, then the towel to maintain the heat
 Repeat on the other hand/foot
 If required apply the infrared heat lamp - do not leave the client alone
 The infra red lamp deflected away from the client’s eyes

22
 Leave the wax on the hands/feet approximately 10 –15 minutes, depending on the dryness of the
skin
 Switch off the infrared lamp and move it away
 Remove the towel; ease the foil and paraffin wax off. Any remaining wax can be peeled off
separately
 Continue with a deep massage and nail paint
Additional hand and foot deluxe treatments

TREATMENT TIMES: MANICURE 45MINS, PEDICURE 60MINS HAND AND FOOT MASK
 Complete the manicure/pedicure treatment up to and including the cuticle work
 Apply a scrub to the lower arm and hand/ lower leg and foot. Work over skin in circular
 Paint the mask carefully over the front of one hand/foot starting at the wrist/ankle.
 Turn client’s hand / lift foot to complete
 Place hand/foot in protector bags cling film can also be used), then wrap the towel around to
maintain the heat
 Thermal mitts or booties can be used at this point (Effects are similar to paraffin wax)
 Repeat on the other hand/foot
 LEAVE THE MASK ON THE HANDS/FEET APPROXIMATELY 10 –15 MINUTES
 Depending on the manufacturer either remove with dampened mitts then dry or massage into the
skin extra moisturising cream may need to be applied to hands and nails/ foot and toes depending
on how much has been absorbed.
 Squeak nails and continue with nail paint

23
The structure of the nail

The nail is a horn-like structure at the end of the fingers and toes and is part of the integumentary system
of the body, it is an appendage of the skin which forms a protective covering for the ends of the fingers,
made of a tough protein called keratin. It protects the distal phalanx, the fingertip, and the surrounding
soft tissues from injuries.
The nail plate is made up of dead, horny, keratinised cells called the stratum lucidum and stratum corneum
– which are similar to layers of the skin. The opaque appearance is caused by keratohyaline.
The chemical composition of the nail is:
Carbon Oxygen
Nitrogen Sulphur
Hydrogen small amount of oil / fat
Lateral view of the anatomy of the finger and nail

24
Keratinisation
The processes whereby living cells with a nucleus, lose their moisture and become horny, flat dead cells
with no nucleus, containing the protein keratin. (Keratin is a hard, durable, fibrous protein that occurs in
the nails, hair and outer layers of the skin)
Keratinisation of the nail
The process of keritinisation starts in the basal layer of the epidermis completes in the horny layer.
The nail plate sits on the dermis (nail bed), which contain nerves and a rich blood supply. It is
made up of cells, which are pushed forward and go through a process of keratinisation causing the
nail plate to grow in length, thickness and hardness.
The cells produced in the matrix (stratum germinativum) divide to produce new cells in the matrix
(stratum spinosum). Then partly keratinised cells begin to lose fluid and the nucleus starts to
disintegrate and forms the lunula (stratum granulosum). Finally dead, horny keratinised cells form
the nail plate (stratum lucidum and stratum corneum)
Growth of the nail
The growth of the nail may be affected by health, injury, age, and diet.
It takes on average between 5 and 6 months to grow from matrix to free edge.
Nails grow more quickly in young people, summer, hands rather than feet and during pregnancy.
The growth, strength and the formation of the nail can be affected by the following:
 Age - nails grow more quickly in younger people
 Ill health – nails can become brittle or flake and horizontal lines may appear
 Diet and nutrition-if poor nails may become weak, thin, brittle and flaky
 External environmental factors-nails can become dry, brittle and flaky in cold weather
 Pollutants and free radicals-nails become dry, weak and flaky
 Ultra-violet- nails more quickly in the summer
 Lifestyle-a good lifestyle grows healthy nails
 Systemic factors such as:
Puberty-the nail plate gets slightly thicker
Pregnancy - nails grow more quickly
Menopause-nails become dry and thickened

25
Anatomy of the nail

26
Hyponychium This is the highly sensitive tip of the finger

It lies underneath and is protected by the free edge
It is has numerous nerve endings.
Free Edge This is an extension of the nail plate which extends over the hyponichium
It is the part of the nail which is filed to form its shape.
The free edge is prone to splitting, flaking and breaking if not cared for.
The flesh line This is the line that is visible through the nail plate where the free edge separates from the nail bed
Nail plate The visible, semi transparent portion of the nail, which sits on the nail bed,
It consists of 3 layers of compressed, keritinised, skeleton cells created at the matrix.
The 3 layers are held together with a small amount of moisture and fat.
Nail grooves These are furrows at the sides of the nail along which the nail plate grows.
Nail bed The nail bed is a continuation of the matrix and is similar to ordinary skin.
The nail bed has a rich, abundant, supply of blood vessels and nerve endings necessary for continual
growth of the nail.
It supports the nail plate, to which it is firmly attached by means of parallel ridges which ‘dovetail’
with corresponding ridges on the underside of the nail plate.
Both the nail bed and nail plate cells are formed at the matrix, and move forward together at the
same rate.
The cuticle This is the overlapping epidermis which surrounds the nail on three sides.
Eponychium / It protects the matrix from damage and invading bacteria.
Peronychium Unless the cuticle is kept free form the nail plate it will encroach on the nail surface and become
stretched tighter as the nail moves forward eventually snapping and causing hang nails.
The cuticle has 2 names:
The eponychium: -the cuticle at the base of the nail.
The peronychium; the cuticle at the sides of the nail.
Matrix or Nail
root The nail root originates from the matrix; the cells divide to form either the nail bed or nail plate
The germinal The matrix is immediately below the cuticle. It makes up about 1/5 of the length of the nail,
matrix although this is mostly hidden. It is here that new cells form and continually push forward to form
the nail plate. Nerves, blood and lymph vessels in the matrix allow the reproducing cells to receive
their nourishment from the blood supply. As the cells are moved forward they undergo
keratinisation and form the horny nail plate.
The health and strength of the nail plate is determined by the matrix. It is the only living,
reproducing part of the nail
Damage to the matrix is likely to cause temporary deformity of the nail.
Lunula (half- The point where the matrix and the nail bed meet (the only visible part of the matrix).
moon at the base It is the crescent shaped, pearly portion of the nail – the colour is caused because the densely
of the nail): packed cells prevent the pinkness of the blood capillaries in the nail bed from being seen.
The nail fold (or The nail fold is the deep fold of skin around the base of the nail and the matrix.
mantle) The nail wall are the folds of skin that overlap the sides of the nail plate to protect
Nail wall

27
Anatomy of the Arm and leg
Types of Bone:
Compact bone
To the naked eye, compact bone appears to be solid, but when a microscope is used the following can be
observed
 Tiny plates of bone close together called lamellae
 Fluid present between the plates of bone - contains bone cells or osteocytes
 A central canal is present containing blood, lymph vessels and nerves
 Forms the outer shell and outer ends of bone
 Gives strength to the skeleton
 Examples –femur and humerus
Cancellous bone (spongy bone)

 Fewer “lamellae” giving a honey
comb appearance
 Looks spongy
 Central canals are much larger
than in compact bone
 Spaces are filled with red bone
marrow
Long bones
 Strongest bones of the skeleton
 Composed of a shaft (diaphysis) and two ends (epiphyses)
 Example- the femur
Short bones
 Small bones located in the wrists and ankles
 A thin outer layer of compact bone with cancellous bone inside
 Example -the tarsals

28
Bones of the lower arm and hand

 Radius-thumb side of arm
 Ulna-little finger side of arm
 8 Carpal bones -wrist
 5 Meta-carpal bones-main part of hand
 14 Phalanges-fingers
Bones of the lower leg and foot

 Patella
 Tibia-medial side
 Fibula-lateral side
 7 Tarsals-ankle bones
 5 Meta-tarsals bones
-main part of foot
 14 Phalanges-toes

29
BONES OF THE HAND
Scaphoid

30
Blood vessels
Arteries
Structure
 Consist of three layers of tissue:

o outer layer of fibrous tissue
o middle layer of smooth muscle tissue and elastic tissue
o inner lining of squamous epithelium
 Arteries are very large when they leave the ventricles, but branch again and again becoming finer
and thinner
 Smaller arteries become arterioles which eventually branch into the microscopic capillaries
 They lie deep in the body for protection
Function
 Arteries carry oxygenated blood from the heart to the body (except the pulmonary artery)
 To transport blood under high pressure
Veins
Structure
Vein walls are thinner than arteries
Have the same three layers of tissue but there is less muscle and elastic in the middle layer
As the pressure in veins is lower, they have valves at intervals to prevent the back flow of blood
They start as venules and become quite thick as they reach the atria of the heart
They are closer to the surface
Function
Veins carry deoxygenated blood back to the heart from the body (except the pulmonary vein)
Veins collapse when cut to maintain blood pressure

31
The arteries and veins of the lower arm and hand
 The radial artery and vein-on the thumb side of the lower arm
 The ulnar artery and vein - on the little finger side of the lower arm
The arteries and veins of the lower leg and foot
 The anterior tibial artery and vein

 The posterior tibial artery and vein
These diagrams represent both arteries and veins although the veins
are not labelled, but they would be in the same position as the
arteries

32
Three types of muscular tissue
Voluntary, Skeletal or striated muscle tissue (often called striped muscle)

 Under voluntary control
 Contracts strongly when stimulated by a motor nerve
 Tires quickly
Structure of voluntary muscle
 The nucleus is found at the edge of the cell
 There are many nuclei in a muscle cell
 Each muscle fibre has a protective coating of connective tissue called sarcolemma
 The cytoplasm of a muscle fibre is called sarcoplasm
 Each muscle fibre is composed of myofibrils (cylindrical cells)
 Myofibrils are arranged parallel to one another so light and dark bands
line up against one another
 These bundles are further bound together to form the individual muscle
 The fibrous tissue making up the whole of the muscle extends to Skeletal muscle tissue
become the tendon
Involuntary/smooth muscle tissue (also called, un-striped or visceral)

 Not under conscious control
 Under control of the autonomic nervous system
 Found:
 in the walls of the blood and lymph vessels
 alimentary tract
 the bladder
 uterus
Smooth muscle tissue
 Fibres are spindle shaped with one nucleus
 Contracts automatically over a long period
 Does not tire easily

33
Cardiac muscle tissue

 Located in the heart only
 Not under conscious control
Cardiac muscle tissues
 Contracts automatically
 The rate is controlled by the autonomic nervous system
 Fibres branch and join with one another so that impulses can spread from one fibre to another
The muscles of the lower arm and hand

 Flexor group of the lower arm
 Extensor group of the lower arm
Thenar eminence
Hypothenar eminence
Anterior view
Posterior view

34
The muscles of the lower leg and foot

 Gastrocnemius
 Soleus
 The extensors of the lower leg
 The abductors of the foot

35
The lymphatic system

This is a second circulatory system in the body connected to the circulation of blood and runs parallel to the
venous vessels draining excess tissue fluid. It returns excess tissue fluid to the blood, filters it of waste and
plays an important role in our immunity.
Lymph vessels
Type of Lymph
Location Structure Function
vessel
Lymph Found in spaces They are thin,

Capillaries between cells forming permeable walled,
complex networks that microscopic closed-
parallel the networks ended tubes
of blood capillaries
Carry lymph away from tissues
Lymph Vessels The larger vessels lead Valves are present to prevent Transport lymph to
to lymph nodes the backward flow of lymph lymph nodes
Lymphatic nodes
Structure For information only

 Contains many lymphocytes and macrophages
 Afferent vessels carry lymph into the node
 An efferent vessel carries lymph from the node
 Nodes occur in groups or chains along the paths
of the larger lymphatic vessels throughout the
body
 They are arranged in deep and superficial
groups
 Fat is absorbed into lymph capillaries from the
villi of the small intestine; the lymph has a
‘milky appearance
 Lacteals are the lymph capillaries, which drain
lymph from the villi

36
Major functions of lymph nodes

 To filter potentially harmful particles from lymph before returning it to the bloodstream
 Immunity against harmful substances is provided by lymphocytes and macrophages
 The nodes are centres for lymphocyte production, which attack infection bacteria, viruses, and
other parasitic cells
LYMPH NODES OF THE ARM
LYMPH NODES OF THE

LEG

37
This page is intentionally blank

38
Nail Diseases and Disorders

Disease Description Causes Action
Eczema Bluish red colour due to congested blood Allergic reactions See doctor. Can be treated
supply. Skin cracks easily not open or sore. Avoid
Hay fever
problem areas.
Sensitises
Psoriasis Reddened patches, which have flaky silvery Unknown may have nervous Avoid open sore area. Nails
scales. origin. Hereditary can be painted. See doctor
Pits in nail plate
Onychomycosis or tinea Ringworm of the nail. Nail becomes Fungal infection Do not treat
ungium (nail) thickened and discoloured
Highly infectious
(On-ee-com ee-co-sis) Spreads from free edge to the matrix
Onychia Inflammation of matrix. Red, swollen cuticle Bacterial infection See doctor, do not treat
at lunula. Pus present
(On-nic-ee-ah) Contact with detergent.
Dirty manicure tools, nail
biting

39
Paronychia – also known as Inflammation of nail wall. Red, inflamed pus Bacterial infection See doctor, do not treat
whitlow
Contact with detergent.
(Par-on-nic-ee-ah) Dirty manicure tools, nail
biting
Haematoma Tumour of clotted blood

Injury Avoid area
Dystrophy Wasting
Illness harsh products
Furrow Deep groove
Onycholysis -separation – bed Nail plate separates from nail bed at Fungal infection Damage to Avoid if due to disease or
and plate hyponychium or nail wall. Can be discoloured finger. Disease. exposed. No harsh manicure
treats. Keep nail short
(On-ee-co-sis)

40
Onychophagy - bitten nails Short nails with no free edge. Hyponychium Nervous habit Regular manicures, hot oil,
and nail wall exposed. “stop” solution. Home care
(on-ee-co-fa-jee)
Hang nails Dry skin around nail wall Neglect – results in dry As above except “stop”
cuticles
(Hang-ney-els)
Onychocryptosis- ingrown Nail plate grows into the nail wall. Red, puffy, Incorrect cutting of nails. Refer to chiropodist. Do not
toenail. swollen. Pressure of shoes and feet treat
(on-ee-co-gri-fo-sis)
Leuconychia -white spots White spots on nail plate Damage to matrix. Regular manicures. Home
Insufficient zinc. Air bubbles care. Careful of matrix if
(lu-co-nic-ee-ah)
between layers of nail damaged
Blue nails Nails look blue Bad circulation (old age). Regular manicures. Buffing to
Heart disease. Diabetes increase circulation
Beau’s lines - growth arrest Transverse ridges across the nail plate. Illness. Nails stop growing Regular manicures. Buffing to
Visible at same place on all nails temporarily smooth ridge

41
Pterygium- overgrown cuticles Thick, hardened growth of dry cuticle adheres Lack of care/neglect. Hot oil or paraffin wax to
to nail plate as it grows. Prone to splitting Persistent biting. Cutting soften skin and push cuticles
(te-rij-ee-um)
cuticles back.
Regular manicures, good
home care
Onychauxis –hypertrophy and Nail thickens and becomes ridged Fungal infection Damage If infection is present do not
thickening. to matrix. Ageing treat
(on-ee-kawk-sis)
Onychatrophia -atrophy nails. Nail becomes smaller and smaller and loses Injury to matrix Manicures are inadvisable
lustre. until nails are healthier
(on-ee-cat-row-fee-ah) Nervous disorder or disease
Opaque and ridged
Splinter haemorrhages Minute lines of bleeding under the nail plate. Blow to the nail. Rough use Regular manicure. Home care
of hands
Onychorrhexis -split nails. Free edge splits and peels Over exposure to harsh Regular manicures and
detergents and over use of moisturising treatments-oil
nail cosmetics or anything and paraffin wax
(on-ee-co-rex-is) which dries out the nail
plate

42
Corrugations-vertical and Ridges running from cuticle (eponychium) to Uneven growth or illness Regular manicure with
horizontal ridges free edge, or across the nail Usually affects and ageing buffing. Ridge filler
all nails
Matrix damage.
Pits and grooves Pits – small circular depressions Damage to matrix. Psoriasis Regular manicure. Buffing
– (see previous page)
Grooves – depressions (ridges) in nail
Canaliformis –laddering Vertical splitting of nail plate forming ladder. Damage to matrix. Ill health Careful manicure. Buffing in
Nail may split completely down middle mild cases
Lamella dystrophy-flaking and A common disorder with many causes. Poor care, diet, ill health, Regular manicures,
breaking nails hereditary, nail disease, moisturising, and good home
Characterised by flaking, peeling, and
hands in water too long, nail care advice
(La-mel-ah) breaking of nail plate
biting, over use of false nails
etc.
Onychogryphosis-claw nail An enlarged nail with increased curve An increase in the Can give normal manicures
production of horny cells of but recommend they see a
(on-ee-co-gri-fo-sis)
the nail plate. Age, neglect chiropodist
ill fitting shoes

43
Bruised nail May have a blue or black bruised appearance Damage or trauma to nail Do not treat the nail until
with discolouration bed or using the nail as a healed
tool
Melanoma Small pigmented area or lesion in the nail bed Very rare Refer immediately to doctor
Yellow nail syndrome Nails are opaque and yellow Lymphatic abnormality Advise client to have a break
from enamel, buffing
Micronychia-small nail Very small nail plate Chronic illness Can treat
(mi-cro-nic-ee-ah)
Yellow stained nails Due to the pigment in nail Use a base coat
enamel staining the plate

44
Koilonychia-spoon nail (coy-lo- Abnormal growth which gives the nail a Abnormal growth at the Can treat as normal
nic-ee-ah) spoon shape matrix
Tinea manum (hand) Ringworm of the hand “ring” like patches of Fungal infection Highly See doctor. Be tactful but do
red itchy skin. Spreads outwards while contagious not treat
healing in centre
Onychoptosis A condition in which part or all of the nail It can occur during or after Depending on the cause of
sheds periodically and falls off the finger; it certain diseases of the body, the nail loss.
can affect one or more nails. such as syphilis, as a result
Trauma – Restrict – avoid area
of fever and system upsets,
as a reaction to prescription Fungal infection – Prevent –
drugs, or as a result of Do not treat
trauma or fungal infection.
Tinea pedis (athletes foot) A.K.A. athlete’s foot. Red and itchy, moist, Fungal infection caught in Do not treat
white, soggy patches between toes swimming pools etc
Raised, thickened areas found on pressure Ill fitting shoes If they become sore advisable
points, such as toes to consult a Doctor
Corns
Seed corns (with a small nucleus) are found
under the arch or heel
Chilblains Painful itchy areas on the feet. Inadequate blood supply. Paraffin wax treatment may
Aggravated by cold, damp help.
Dull blue to red
conditions
Keep warm and dry

45
Bunions A lump on the inside of the foot at the base of Poor fitting shoes resulting Can give a pedicure as usual
the big toe in displacing the big toe
joint
Verruca Plantaris –warts Warts on the soles of the feet become Caused by a virus Treatment by a doctor or
flattened under pressure chiropodist

Self-assessment
1. The amount of nitrocellulose in topcoat is:
a. The same as in nail enamel
b. More than in nail enamel
c. None
2. The main ingredient of cuticle remover is:
a. Potassium hydroxide
b. Glycerine
c. An emollient
d. Ethyl actetate
3. The fil-forming ingredient of nail enamel is:
a. Resins
b. Plasticiser
c. Nitrocellulose
d. Solvent
4. A base coat contains:
a. Hydrogen peroxide
b. Nitro-glycerine
c. Nitrocellulose
d. Isopropl myristate
5. Give 6 properties of a good nail enamel:
6. Define lunula:

47
7. Define matrix
8. Define Hyponychium
9. Define perionychium
10. Define eponychium
11. Give 10 contraindications:

•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
12. Give 7 points of advice for brittle and split nails
•
•
•
•
•
•
•

48
13. Describe Tinea Pedis
14. Describe Onychia
15. Describe paronychia
16. Describe leukonychia
17. Describe psoriasis of the nail
18. Describe the growth of the nail
19. Ethyl acetate is used in what nail product
20. Draw the nail and label each part


Nail Treatments Pack 2018

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Nail Treatments Pack 2018

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

2018

Champneys Beauty College

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Information about the ITEC examination

Manicure treatments are examined within the ‘Aesthetic treatments’

Pedicure treatments are internally examined

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

The Healthy Therapist

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Manicure tools and use

Nail clippers (pedicure)

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Damage caused by incorrect use of manicure and pedicure tools

Nail Products and their ingredients

Cuticle remover Cuticle remover is an alkaline lotion used Potassium hydroxide

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Assessment of the hands and nails.

Hands and Feet

Condition of Appearance Cause Products/ Treatments Home care Avoid

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Indications for buffing

Procedure for buffing

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Sequence for finger rotation in manicure

LEFT hand RIGHT hand

RIGHT hand LEFT hand

Applying nail enamel

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

How to apply nail enamel.

How to apply nail enamel

Repeat step 4 on the other side

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Tools and equipment required to perform Manicure/pedicure (pedicure marked*).

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Hand and arm massage routine

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

4. Up Medial side (little finger) to elbow slide down to carpals (wrist) x3

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Foot and leg massage

1. Effleurage foot to knee with alternate hands x 3

BENEFITS AND EFFECTS OF MASSAGE

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Additional hand and foot treatments

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

To mend broken nail

Other hand and foot treatments

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

6. Soak the hands for 10-15 minutes

Deluxe manicure/pedicure treatments

The effects include:

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Additional hand and foot deluxe treatments

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

The structure of the nail

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx

Anatomy of the nail

Rev: 13 File: U:\CURRICULUM\Teaching Subjects\Aesthetics\Man & Ped\Nail Treatments Pack 2018.docx