Journal of Coastal Research 00 0 000–000 Coconut Creek, Florida Month 0000

Using Symbolic Computing to Obtain Lagrange-Euler

Solutions for Nonlinear Progressive Waves on a Uniform
Current
Chia-Cheng Tsai†‡*, Jen-Yi Chang§, Hung-Chu Hsu††, and Yang-Yih Chen‡
† ‡
Department of Marine Environmental Engineering Department of Marine Environment and Engineering
National Kaohsiung University of Science and National Sun Yat-Sen University
Technology Kaohsiung 804, Taiwan
Kaohsiung 811, Taiwan ††
Tainan Hydraulics Laboratory
§ National Cheng Kung University
Tainan University of Technology
Tainan 710, Taiwan Tainan 701, Taiwan

ABSTRACT
Tsai, C.-C.; Chang, J.-Y.; Hsu, H.-C., and Chen, Y.-Y., 0000. Using symbolic computing to obtain Lagrange-Euler
solutions for nonlinear progressive waves on a uniform current. Journal of Coastal Research, 00(0), 000–000. Coconut
Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.

In this study, a symbolic implementation is introduced to perform the Lagrange-Euler transformation for the solutions of
nonlinear progressive water waves on a uniform current over a finite depth. In the computation, the solutions in the
Lagrangian description are obtained first and transformed subsequently to the corresponding solutions in the Eulerian
description. To accomplish an automatically symbolic computation, operators for obtaining Taylor-Fourier coefficients
are introduced to convert the hierarchical system of governing differential equations into a system of algebraic equations.
The fifth-order Eulerian and Lagrangian solutions in the literature are extended to the seventh order by the proposed
method. The correctness of the solution is checked by Richardson extrapolation to the limit. For efficient utilization in
practical engineering applications, the seventh-order Eulerian solutions are implemented in Cþþ codes with accuracy
improvements over the existing solutions demonstrated. Furthermore, this study can be considered a constructive
demonstration of the equivalence between the Lagrangian and the Eulerian solutions. Some source codes are freely
available online and can be used for further studies.

ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: Particle trajectory, steady wave, Lagrangian description, Eulerian description.

INTRODUCTION (1928) and Miche (1944). In the previously mentioned

Since Stokes (1847) applied the perturbation method to
obtain the solution of a steady wave, many researchers have
extended the Stokes wave solution to higher orders with
different definitions of problem configurations (Cokelet, 1977;
Dingemans, 1997; Fenton, 1985; Skjelbreia and Hendrickson,
1960). The Stokes wave solution can be described by observing
either the fluid velocity at a fixed coordinate or the trajectories
of fluid particles. These methods are called the Eulerian or
Lagrangian description, respectively.
In the Lagrangian description, particle motions are
described by a parametric representation. Therefore, the
free surface can be described more easily by the Lagrangian
description than the Eulerian description for which the
wave surface is expressed as an implicit function. Conse-
quently, it is more appropriate to use the Lagrangian
method to describe the particle trajectory, free-surface
motion, and mass transport under a wave motion. Gerstner
(1809) was among the first to develop the water wave theory
in the Lagrangian coordinates. Subsequently, the Lagrang-
ian solutions for standing waves were proposed by Sainflou
DOI: 10.2112/JCOASTRES-D-18-00054.1 received 18 April 2018;
accepted in revision 28 October 2018; corrected proofs received
1 February 2019; published pre-print online 27 February 2019.
*Corresponding author: tsaichiacheng@nkust.edu.tw
Ó
Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc. 2019
theories, a finite vorticity was considered, and recent
studies can be found in the literature (Constantin, 2013;
Moreira and Chacaltana, 2015; Moreira and Peregrine,
2011).
Problems of irrotational Stokes waves in the Lagrangian
description are typically solved by two methods. One method
is to obtain the Lagrangian solutions by transformations
from the Eulerian solutions (Chen, 1996; Chen and Hsu,
2009a; Longuet-Higgins, 1953, 1979, 1986, 1987; Tsai, Chen,
and Hsu, 2015; Wiegel, 1964). Longuet-Higgins (1953) solved
the irrotational Stokes waves by applying a Taylor series
expansion to the Eulerian velocity and obtained the second-
order Lagrangian velocity. Subsequently, various Lagrang-
ian characters, including the particle motion, mass trans-
port, Lagrangian wave period, and Lagrangian mean level,
were studied (Longuet-Higgins, 1979, 1986, 1987). Wiegel
(1964) and Chen (1996) extended the solution of Longuet-
Higgins (1953) to the third order. In their solution, a secular
term that is physically unreasonable exists. Subsequently, a
modified Euler-Lagrange transformation was developed to
obtain a third-order Lagrangian solution of Stokes waves
that is free from secular terms (Chen and Hsu, 2009a). Tsai,
Chen, and Hsu (2015) introduced the symbolic Euler-
Lagrange solutions of nonlinear progressive waves in quiet
waters without numerical results.
0 Tsai et al.

The other method is to solve the Lagrangian governing

equations and boundary conditions directly (Buldakov, Taylor,
and Taylor, 2006; Chang, Liou, and Su, 2007; Chen, 1994; Chen
and Hsu, 2009b; Chen, Hsu, and Chen, 2010; Chen, Hsu, and
Hwung, 2012; Clamond, 2007; Liou, 2005). For deep water
waves, Buldakov, Taylor, and Taylor (2006) and Clamond (2007)
obtained the fifth-order and seventh-order Lagrangian solu-
tions, respectively. For waves over a finite depth, Chen (1994)
first obtained the third-order solution by solving the Lagrangian
governing equations and boundary conditions directly. In
addition, Clamond (2007) and Liou (2005) found the third-order
and fifth-order Lagrangian solutions, respectively. Chen, Hsu,
and Hwung (2012) included a uniform current to the third-order Figure 1. Schematic configuration of the problem definition.

Lagrangian solution over a finite depth.

All preceding solutions were derived by hand or partially to their initial positions of particles. Consequently, all physical
aided by symbolic software. It is extremely difficult for other significant variables, including particle position (x,y), pressure
researchers to reproduce these solutions and to extend them to p, and velocity potential /, are functions of the Lagrangian
higher orders. Furthermore, it is difficult to find the differences labels and time t.
among solutions of different settings. In this study, a symbolic The system of Lagrangian governing equations and the
implementation is introduced to directly obtain the Lagrangian boundary conditions for the two-dimensional irrotational free-
solutions of nonlinear progressive water waves on a uniform surface flow can be summarized as follows:
current over a finite depth. Inspired by the study of Chen
(1996), a Lagrange-Euler transformation is proposed to obtain ]ðx; yÞ
xa yb  xb ya  1 ¼  1 ¼ 0; ð1Þ
the corresponding Eulerian solutions. The Lagrangian govern- ]ða; bÞ
ing equations and the equations of the Lagrange-Euler
transformation are demonstrated to be of the Taylor-Fourier ]ðxt ; xÞ ]ðyt ; yÞ
xat xb  xbt xa þ yat yb  ybt ya ¼ þ ¼ 0; ð2Þ
series. Therefore, operators with symbolic implementations are ]ða; bÞ ]ða; bÞ
introduced to obtain the coefficients of the Taylor-Fourier
series. The existing fifth-order Eulerian (Fenton, 1985) and /a  ðxt xa þ yt ya Þ ¼ 0; ð3Þ
Lagrangian solutions (Chang, Liou, and Su, 2007; Liou, 2005)
are extended to the seventh order by the proposed method. The /b  ðxt xb þ yt yb Þ ¼ 0; ð4Þ
correctness of the solution is checked by Richardson extrapo-
lation to the limit. In addition, the solutions are implemented in p 1 
Cþþ codes for efficient utilization in practical engineering þ /t þ gðy  hÞ  xt 2 þ yt 2 ¼ 0; ð5Þ
q 2
applications, and the accuracy improvements are demonstrat-
ed. Finally, the equivalence of the Lagrangian and Eulerian p ¼ 0; b ¼ h; ð6Þ
solutions is discussed.
and
METHODS yt ¼ 0; y ¼ b ¼ 0 ð7Þ
In this section, the problem definition and the symbolic
Lagrangian solutions are introduced. Subsequently, a symbolic where, g is the gravitational acceleration and q is the fluid
Lagrange-Euler transformation is presented to obtain the density. In addition, Equations (1) and (2) are the continuity
corresponding Eulerian solutions. and irrotational conditions, respectively. Equations (3) and (4)
are the definition of the Lagrangian velocity potential, and
Problem Definition Equation (5) is the Bernoulli equation. Equations (6) and (7) are
In this study, the problem of nonlinear progressive waves on the boundary conditions on the free surface and bottom,
a uniform current over a finite depth is considered as shown in respectively. In the Equations (1)–(7), the subscripts a, b, and
Figure 1. In the figure, h is the water depth, the x-axis is in the t indicate the partial differentiations with respect to these
direction of wave propagation, and the y-axis is vertically variables. Chen and coauthors (Chen, 1994; Chen, Hsu, and
upward, with the origin on the flat bed. The magnitudes of the
Chen, 2010) presented a detailed introduction to this set of
uniform current and the absolute wave phase velocity are U
Lagrangian governing equations and boundary conditions,
and C, respectively, in the x direction. Here, the absolute wave
together with a perturbation solution procedure to the third
phase velocity indicates that the surface elevation is steady
order.
when observed in a frame moving at a constant velocity C. More
details will be introduced in the subsection on symbolic Symbolic Lagrangian Solution
Lagrange-Euler transformation. For waves in the Lagrangian To perform a symbolic computation, the following expres-
description, the fluid motion is described by tracing the sions of the Lth-order Lagrangian solutions should be consid-
individual fluid particles; these particles are distinguished by ered (Chang, Liou, and Su, 2007; Chen, Hsu, and Hwung, 2012;
the Lagrangian labels (a,b) that exhibit a one-to-one correlation Liou, 2005):

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 00, No. 0, 0000

 Using Symbolic Computing to Obtain Solutions for Nonlinear Progressive Waves 0

xða; b; tÞ ¼ a þ Ut þ x ða; b; tÞ þ x ða; b; tÞ Modði þ n; 2Þ ¼

6 0: ð20Þ
XL X
L
¼ a þ Ut þ xi ða; b; tÞei þ x i Furthermore, the superscripts * and ** stand for solutions
i ða; b; tÞe ; ð8Þ
i¼1 i¼1 without and with time-growing secular terms, respectively. rL
is the Lagrangian angular frequency, and k ¼ 2p/k is the
X
L wavenumber, with k as the wavelength. H is the wave height,
yða; b; tÞ ¼ b þ y ða; b; tÞ ¼ b þ yi ða; b; tÞei ; ð9Þ and e ¼ kH/2 is the wave steepness, which is typically smaller
i¼1
than 1 (Toffoli et al., 2010). The solution expressions in
Equations (8)–(18) with the unknown coefficients Mi,m,n, Ni,m,n,
U2t
/ða; b; tÞ ¼ Uxða; b; tÞ  þ / ða; b; tÞ þ / ða; b; tÞ Di,m,n, Ei,m,n, Fi,m,n, and Gi,m satisfy Equation (7) automatically.
2 Therefore, the unknown coefficients should be determined by
U2t X L
¼ Uxða; b; tÞ  þ /i ða; b; tÞei Equations (1)–(6), and the wave height condition will be
2 i¼1 described in Equation (21). The solution expression of the
X
L
Lagrangian velocity potential in Equation (10) is discussed in
 i
þ /i ða; b; tÞe ; ð10Þ
i¼1 Appendix A.
To render the Stokes wave problem uniquely solvable,
pða; b; tÞ ¼ qgðb  hÞ þ p ða; b; tÞ¼  qgðb  hÞ Fenton (1985) used the definition of wave height to close the
X
L problem. His condition is given in the Eulerian description. In
þ pi ða; b; tÞei ; ð11Þ this study, the condition is rewritten in the Lagrangian
i¼1
description as:
and
yða; h; tÞjkarL t¼0  yða; h; tÞjkarL t¼p ¼ H: ð21Þ
!
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi X
L1 X
i
rL ðb; eÞ ¼ gk tanh kh 1 þ Gi;m cosh mkb ei ; ð12Þ Substituting Equations (9) and (15) into Equation (21) and
i¼1 m¼0 using the definition of wave steepness yields:

with 1
N1;1;1 ¼ ð22Þ
k sinh kh
X
i
xi ða; b; tÞ ¼ Mi;m;n cosh mkb sin nðka  rL tÞ; ð13Þ and
m¼0;n¼1  
yi ða; h; tÞkar  yi ða; h; tÞkar ¼ 0 for i.1: ð23Þ
L t¼0 L t¼p

pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi X
i
In Equation (23), the periodicity of 2p with respect to ka  rLt is
x
i ða; b; tÞ ¼ gk tanh kh Mi;m;0 t cosh mkb; ð14Þ
m¼0 considered from Equation (15).
Researchers use substitutions occasionally to simplify the
X
i solutions. For example, Liou (2005) and Chang, Liou, and Su
yi ða; b; tÞ ¼ Ni;m;n sinh mkb cos nðka  rL tÞ; ð15Þ (2007) introduced the substitution B̂ ¼ 1/(k sinh kh) to
m¼1;n¼0
transform Equation (22) into:
rffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi ^
g tanh kh X i N1;1;1 ¼ B: ð24Þ
/i ða; b; tÞ ¼ 3
Di;m;n cosh mkb sin nðka  rL tÞ;
k m¼0;n¼1 Consequently, their solutions are represented by B̂ and
ð16Þ can be transformed to the solutions based on Equation (22)
after performing the prescribed substitution. In other
  words, Equation (22) should be replaced by Equation (24)
g tanh kh
/
i ða; b; tÞ ¼ Di;0;0 t; ð17Þ if their solutions are to be derived. Similarly, Chen and
k
coauthors (Chen, 1994, 1996; Chen and Hsu, 2009a,b; Chen,
and Hsu, and Chen, 2010) introduced a parameter â with the
substitution â ¼ 1/(k tan kh) to transform Equation (22)
X
i  
pi ða; b; tÞ ¼ Ei;m;n cosh mkb þ Fi;m;n sinh mkb into:
m¼0;n¼0
N1;1;1 ¼ a^ sech kh: ð25Þ
3 cos nðka  rL tÞ: ð18Þ
Overall, the unknown coefficients Mi,m,n, Ni,m,n, Di,m,n,
In Equation (12), Gi,m is set to zero if: Ei,m,n, Fi,m,n, and Gi,m can be determined by Equations
(1)–(6) and (23) and Equation (22), (24), or (25).
Modði þ m; 2Þ 6¼ 0; ð19Þ
Before introducing symbolic computing, a Taylor-Fourier
where, Mod(iþm,2) is the remainder of iþm divided by 2. In series P is defined as:
addition, in Equations (13)–(18), Mi,m,n, Ni,m,n, Di,m,n, Ei,m,n,
Pðe; sin a; cos a; sinh b; cosh bÞ ¼ P1 þ P2 þ P3 þ P4 ; ð26Þ
and Fi,m,n are set to zero if Equation (19) or the following
condition is satisfied: with

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 00, No. 0, 0000

0 Tsai et al.

X
L X
i b ¼ kb: ð32Þ
P1 ¼ sin a sinh b Q1;i;m;n ei cosn1 a coshm1 b; ð27Þ
i¼0 n¼1;m¼1 Equations (27) and (28) are odd and even functions of a,
respectively, and they are similar for the other situations. The
X
L X
i detailed analysis (Appendix B) indicates that the substitutions
P2 ¼ sinh b Q2;i;m;n ei cosn a coshm1 b; ð28Þ of the solution expressions in Equations (8)–(18) into the
i¼0 n¼0;m¼1
governing Equations (1)–(6) result in the Taylor-Fourier series
of forms P3 þ P4, P1 þ P2, P4, P1 þ P2, P2 þ P4, and P4,
X
L X
i
respectively.
P3 ¼ sin a Q3;i;m;n ei cosn1 a coshm b; ð29Þ
i¼0 n¼1;m¼0 To obtain the unknowns Mi,m,n, Ni,m,n, Di,m,n, Ei,m,n, Fi,m,n,
and Gi,m, algorithms are required to find the coefficients of the
and Taylor-Fourier series in Equations (1)–(6). First, an operator is
X
L X
i defined to obtain the coefficient of ei for the Taylor-Fourier
P4 ¼ Q4;i;m;n ei cosn a coshm b: ð30Þ series P as:
i¼0 n¼0;m¼0 
1 ]i P
In Equations (27)–(30), Q1,i,m,n, Q2,i,m,n, Q3,i,m,n, and Q4,i,m,n are TeðiÞ ð PÞ ¼ : ð33Þ
i! ]ei e¼0
arbitrary coefficients, as well as:
Subsequently, operators are defined to obtain the coefficients
a ¼ ka  rL t ð31Þ
of sin a cosn1 and cosn a for the Taylor-Fourier series P,
and respectively, as follows:

8 2  pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi  pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 39

< ]n1 P e; 1  a~2 ; a~; sinh b; cosh b  P e;  1  a~2 ; a~; sinh b; cosh b =
K1n ð PÞ ¼ 4 pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 5  ð34Þ
an1
:]~ ðn  1Þ! 2 1  a~2 ;
a~¼0

and
8 2  pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi  pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 39
< ]n P e; 1  a~2 ; a~; sinh b; cosh b þ P e;  1  a~2 ; a~; sinh b; cosh b =
K2n ð PÞ ¼ 4 5  ; ð35Þ
an
:]~ ðn!Þ2 ;
a~¼0

with ã ¼ cos a. Similarly, operators to obtain the coefficients of sinh b cosh m1 b and coshm b are expressed, respectively, by:
8 2  qffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi   qffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 39
> 2 2 
>
< ]m1 6 P e; sin a; cos a; b~  1 ; ~
b  P e; sin a; cos a;  b~  1; b~ > >
7=
3
Km ð PÞ ¼ 6 qffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 7  ð36Þ
> ~m1 4 5>
> ;
>
2
: ] b ðm  1Þ! 2 b  1~
~
b¼0

and
8 2  qffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi   qffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 39
> 2 2 
>
< ]m 6 P e; sin a; cos a; b~  1 ; ~
b þ P e; sin a; cos a;  b~  1; b~ > >
7=
4
Km ð PÞ ¼ 6 7  ; ð37Þ
>]b~m 4 ðm!Þ2 5>
>
: ;
>
~
b¼0

with b̃ ¼ cos b.  
Considering K2n as an example, it obtains the even part of the Q3;i;m;n ¼ K4m K1n TeðiÞ ð PÞ ; ð40Þ
Taylor-Fourier series P with respect to a and subsequently
obtains the coefficient of ãn. In addition, the operators in and
Equations (33)–(37) can be implemented in Mathematica code.  
Q4;i;m;n ¼ K4m K2n TeðiÞ ð PÞ : ð41Þ
A Mathematica code of K2n is given in Appendix C. Other
operators can be implemented similarly and are thus neglected.
Now, an algorithm can be introduced to solve the Lth-order
Subsequently:
Lagrangian solutions.
 
Q1;i;m;n ¼ K3m K1n TeðiÞ ð PÞ ; ð38Þ Algorithm L
(1) Solve M1,1,1, N1,1,1, D1,1,1, E1,1,1, F1,1,1, and G1,1 by
  Equation (22), (24), or (25) and the resulted equations
Q2;i;m;n ¼ K3m K2n TeðiÞ ð PÞ ; ð39Þ ð 1Þ
of applying Te () to Equations (1)–(6).

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 00, No. 0, 0000

 Using Symbolic Computing to Obtain Solutions for Nonlinear Progressive Waves 0

(2) Loop by i ¼ 2,3,. . .,L and n ¼ i,i 2,. . .,0 in the following In Equations (44) and (45), the invariances of / and g are
steps.  significant and Ai,n and Bi,n are set to zero if Equation (20) is
ðiÞ
(3) Apply K2n Te ðÞ to Equation (6). satisfied. In addition, /̃ is the Eulerian velocity potential for
(4) Apply the four operators in Equations (38)–(41) to nonlinear progressive water waves without uniform currents.
Equations (1)–(5) for m ¼ i,i  2,. . .,0 if the operator is The Eulerian solutions in Equations (43)–(45) can be solved
defined. by the kinematic and dynamic free-surface boundary condi-
(5) If n „ 1, solve M i,i,n ,M i,i2,n ,. . ., N i,i,n ,N i,i2,n ,. . ., tions, respectively, as:
Di,i,n,Di,i2,n,. . . Fi,i,n,Fi,i2,n,. . ., and Ei,i,n,Ei,i2,n,. . . by
]g ]/ ]g ]/
the algebraic equations of Steps 3 and 4 for the unknowns þ  ¼0 ð49Þ
that are defined. ]t ]x ]x ]y
(6) If n ¼ 1, solve G i , i ,G i , i2 ,. . ., M i , i , n ,M i , i2 , n ,. . ., and
Ni,i,n,Ni,i2,n,. . ., Di,i,n,Di,i2,n,. . ., Ei,i,n,Ei,i2,n,. . ., and " 2  2 #
Fi,i,n,Fi,i2,n,. . . by the algebraic equations of Steps 3 and ]/ 1 ]/ ]/
þ þ þ gg  R ¼ 0 ð50Þ
4 and the condition in Equation (23) for the unknowns ]t 2 ]x ]y
that are defined.
on y ¼ g. In Equations (49) and (50), R is the Bernoulli constant
In Step 4, K1n () and K3m () are defined only when n . 0 and m with the expression:
. 0, respectively. In addition, the Mathematica code of
Algorithm L is available online (Tsai, 2017a). g tanh kh C2 g X L1
R¼  þ ri e i : ð51Þ
2k 2 k i¼2;4;:::
Symbolic Lagrange-Euler Transformation
Considering (x,y) as the Eulerian coordinate, a Lagrange- Here, the unknowns Ai,n, Bi,n, ci, and ri are defined to be the
Euler transformation is introduced to convert the prescribed same as the corresponding unknowns in the article by Fenton
Lagrangian solution to the corresponding Eulerian solution (1985). Furthermore, Tsai, Chen, and Hsu (2015) implemented
described by the velocity potential /(x,y,t), surface elevation Algorithm E to obtain the solutions symbolically when U ¼ 0.
g(x,t), and absolute wave phase speed C, as depicted in Figure 1. Herein, the authors construct the equations differently for
The steadiness of the wave indicates that the velocity potential
performing the Lagrange-Euler transformations, as follows:
and surface elevation are steady when observed in a frame
moving at a constant velocity C. If the Eulerian and intrinsic /~ðX ða; b; tÞ; yða; b; tÞÞ  / ða; b; tÞ ¼ 0 ð52Þ
frequencies are defined as rE and r0, respectively, it gives:
and
rE r0
C¼ ¼Uþ : ð42Þ gðX ða; h; tÞÞ  y ða; h; tÞ ¼ 0; ð53Þ
k k
By classical Stokes theory in the Eulerian description where, X(a,b,t) and X(a,h,t) are defined by Equations (8), (42),
(Fenton, 1985), the intrinsic frequency should be defined as: (43), and (46). In Equation (52), the time-growing secular part,
! U2t/2  UCt  /**, is ignored, because it contributes not to the
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi X
L1
r0 ¼ gk tanh kh 1 þ i
ci e : ð43Þ definition of velocity but rather to the Bernoulli constant R.
i¼2;4;::: The detailed analysis (Appendix B) also indicates that both
Equations (52)  and
 (53)   P3 þ P 4. Therefore,
are of form
In addition, the Eulerian velocity potential and surface ðiÞ
operators K4m K1n Te ðÞ
ðiÞ
and K4m K2n Te ðÞ can be used
elevation are defined, respectively, as:
to obtain the unknown coefficients ci, Ai,n, and Bi,n. If the
X
L Bernoulli constant R is important, a postcomputation can be
/ðX; yÞ ¼ UX þ /~ðX; yÞ ¼ UX þ /~i ðX; yÞei ð44Þ performed to solve the unknown ri using Equation (50). Similar
i¼1 to Algorithm L, the prescribed Lagrange-Euler transformation
and is implemented in Algorithm LtE.

X
L
RESULTS
gð X Þ ¼ gi ð X Þei ; ð45Þ
i¼1
In this section, the symbolic and numerical results are
presented. Subsequently, a Cþþ implementation for engineer-
with ing applications is introduced.
X ¼ x  Ct; ð46Þ Symbolic Results
rffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi i The results obtained using Algorithms L and LtE are
~ g tanh kh X compared carefully with those in the literature (Chang, Liou,
/i ðX; yÞ ¼ Ai;n cosh nky sin nkX; ð47Þ
k3 and Su, 2007; Chen, 1994, 1996; Chen and Hsu, 2009a,b; Chen,
n¼1
Hsu, and Chen, 2010; Chen, Hsu, and Hwung, 2012; Dinge-
and mans, 1997; Fenton, 1985; Liou, 2005; Skjelbreia and Hen-
drickson, 1960), and exact agreement can be found except for a
X
i
Bi;n
gi ð X Þ ¼ cos nkX: ð48Þ few typographical errors in the literature. When U ¼ 0, the
n¼1
k present solutions are in exact agreement with those obtained

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 00, No. 0, 0000

0 Tsai et al.

Table 1. Orders of RMSEs in kinematic and dynamic free-surface Table 2. Time requirement for different orders of solutions.
boundary conditions.
Algorithm Algorithm Algorithm Algorithm
lK lD L LtE E EtL
Third order 4.00012 4.00015 Third order 15 s 25 s 3s 22 s
Fifth order 6.00152 5.99980 Fifth order 9 min 13 s 13 min 12 s 1 min 19 s 6 min 24 s
Seventh order 8.00170 8.00038 Seventh order ~5 h 30 min ~7 h 37 min ~2 h 4 min ~3 h 18 min

by Algorithms E and EtL, which were introduced by Tsai, Numerical Results

Chen, and Hsu (2015). In addition, the Mathematica codes for
Algorithms E and L are available online (Tsai, 2017a), where
the fifth-order Eulerian and Lagrangian solutions are shown to
be the same as those of Fenton (1985) and Liou (2005),
respectively. In addition, the extended seventh-order Eulerian
and Lagrangian solutions are obtained for the first time by the
proposed method.
To enforce the correctness of the seventh-order solutions, the
authors follow the method in the previous studies (Fenton,
1985; Sobey, 2012), where the Richardson extrapolation to the
limit was performed. The method is applied to the Eulerian
solutions obtained by the Lagrange-Euler transformation.
Considering the Lth-order solutions, the root-mean-square
errors (RMSEs) are defined as:
" Z #1=2
2 k=2 2
fK ð e Þ ¼ FK ðX; eÞdX
k 0
In addition to the symbolic correctness of the obtained
solution, the corresponding numerical accuracy should be
studied. It is reasonable to use the residual RMSEs, fK, and
fD as error indicators. In this study, fD is typically selected,
because the numerical results imply that the values of fK and fD
are in the same order of e. Figure 2 shows the contours of fD
with respect to k/h and H/h for different orders of the Eulerian
solutions. In the figure, the accuracy improvement of the
higher-order solutions over the lower-order ones is significant.
Subsequently, consider the two numerical cases of H/h ¼ 0.3
and H/h ¼ 0.45 with the same value of k/h ¼ 8. Correspondingly,
the wave steepness is equal to kH/2¼0.118 and kH/2¼0.177. In
this situation, the Stokes wave theory can be applied safely,
according to Figure 2 and the other studies (Fenton, 1990; Grue
ð54Þ

and
" Z #1=2
2 k=2 2
fD ðeÞ ¼ FD ðX; eÞdX ; ð55Þ
k 0

where, FK and FD are the residues of the kinematic (49) and

dynamic (50) free-surface boundary conditions, respectively.
Following Sobey (2012), fK }elK and fD }elD with the orders of
errors are evaluated by:

log½fK ðe2 Þ=fK ðe1 Þ

lK ¼ ð56Þ
logðe2 =e1 Þ

and

log½fD ðe2 Þ=fD ðe1 Þ

lD ¼ ; ð57Þ
logðe2 =e1 Þ

where, e1 and e2 correspond to two different values of H but the

same k, h, and U.
Numerical experiments are performed using h ¼ 1 m, k ¼ 4 m,
and U ¼ 1 m/s, with e1 and e2 corresponding to H ¼ 0.02 m and H
¼ 0.04 m, respectively. The orders of the RMSEs are given in
Table 1. In the table, the evaluated orders are in good
agreement with the theoretical values of L þ 1. To facilitate
the solution confirmation, the seventh-order Eulerian solutions
are explicitly addressed in Appendix D.
Subsequently, the efficiency is considered, with the
computing time being addressed in Table 2. For example,
the fifth-order Lagrange-Euler solutions can be obtained
using Algorithm LtE in about 13 minutes with an Intel Xeon Figure 2. RMSE contours of the dynamic free-surface boundary condition
2.4 GHz central processing unit with 12 GB random access for the Eulerian solutions of the (a) third, (b) fifth, and (c) seventh orders.
memory.

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 00, No. 0, 0000

 Using Symbolic Computing to Obtain Solutions for Nonlinear Progressive Waves 0

Figure 3. Comparisons of (a) the surface elevation, (b) horizontal velocity, and (c) vertical velocity for the case of H/h ¼ 0.3.

et al., 2003; Swan, Cummins, and James, 2001; Toffoli et al., relative wave height (H/h ¼ 0.3). In the figure, the Eulerian
2010). Figure 3 depicts the surface elevation and dimensionless results of the fifth-order and seventh-order Stokes wave theory
horizontal and vertical velocities (u,v) for the case of smaller are in excellent agreement with those of the high-order Fourier

Figure 4. Comparisons of (a) the surface elevation, (b) horizontal velocity, and (c) vertical velocity for the case of H/h ¼ 0.45.

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 00, No. 0, 0000

0 Tsai et al.
Figure 5. Seventh-order trajectories of particles at different elevations b for
the case of H/h ¼ 0.3.
approximation (Rienecker and Fenton, 1981), which is a
numerical solution. Subsequently, a similar comparison is
made for the case of a larger relative wave height (H/h ¼ 0.45),
as depicted in Figure 4. In the figure, the seventh-order
solution converges better than the fifth-order one when
compared with the solution obtained by the Fourier approxi-
mation. This also validates Algorithm LtE.
Subsequently, the particle trajectories obtained from the
Lagrangian solutions are discussed. For a smaller relative
wave height (H/h ¼ 0.3), the particle trajectories of the seventh-
order Lagrangian solution are plotted in Figure 5, where the
Stokes drift can be observed readily. In Figure 6, the particle
trajectories of the case (H/h ¼ 0.3) are compared for different
orders of Lagrangian solutions. In the figure, a smooth trend of
convergence is found. Subsequently, a similar comparison is
made for the case of a larger relative wave height (H/h ¼ 0.45),
as depicted in Figure 7. Because the wave is steeper (larger e)
compared with the previous case, the particle trajectories of
different orders are farther apart in this case. Subsequently,
uniform currents are included for the latter case, and the
Figure 6. Particle trajectories of the third-order (dashed line), fifth-order
(solid line), and seventh-order (dotted line) Lagrangian solutions at
elevations b/h ¼ 0.8 for the case of H/h ¼ 0.3.
Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 00, No. 0, 0000
Figure 7. Particle trajectories of the third-order (dashed line), fifth-order
(solid line), and seventh-order (dotted line) Lagrangian solutions for the case
of H/h ¼ 0.45.
results are depicted in Figure 8. In the figure, the effect of
uniform currents on particle trajectories, described in Equa-
tions (8) and (9), can be observed.
Finally, a case of an even larger relative wave height is
considered: H/h ¼ 0.55 and kH/2 ¼ 0.192. Experimental studies
on steep waves can be found in the literature (Grue et al., 2003;
Swan, Cummins, and James, 2001; Toffoli et al., 2010). Figure 9
shows that the seventh-order Eulerian wave profile represents
pronounced secondary oscillations in the trough, while the
Lagrangian waves exhibits a smoother profile. The presence of
the unrealistic fluctuations indicates that the seventh-order
Eulerian solution is not suitable to represent the free-surface
profiles of steeper waves. Consequently, the Lagrangian
solutions provide better predictions of the free-surface profiles
for steeper waves than the Eulerian solutions of the same or
higher orders. A similar phenomenon was found previously for
the third-order Lagrangian and Eulerian solutions of standing
waves by Chen and Hsu (2009b).
Implementation for Engineering Applications
Fenton has implemented a plan C package for the Fourier
(Rienecker and Fenton, 1981), fifth-order Stokes (Fenton,
1985), and fifth-order cnoidal (Fenton, 1979) water wave
theories for efficient usages in practical engineering applica-
tions. In this study, the first author has converted that code
into the Cþþ programming language with the addition of the
seventh-order Eulerian solutions (Tsai, 2017b). Understanding
the kinematics and evolution of steeper waves is important for
determining loads on offshore structures (Buldakov, Stagonas,
and Simons, 2017). Furthermore, physical parameters of mean
current, volume flux, momentum flux, kinetic energy, potential
energy, and radiation stress are implemented and extended to
the seventh order. This provides an accurate and efficient
alternative prediction for highly nonlinear progressive water
waves (Constantin, 2009; Dold, 1992; Zhang, Yip, and Ng,
2009).
Figure 8. Particle trajectories of the case (H/h ¼ 0.45) at elevation b/h ¼ 0.8
with uniform currents U¼0.05 (dashed line), U ¼ 0 (solid line), and U ¼ 0.05
(dotted line).
 Using Symbolic Computing to Obtain Solutions for Nonlinear Progressive Waves
Figure 9. Surface elevations of the seventh-order Eulerian (solid line) and
Lagrangian (dashed line) solutions for the case of H/h ¼ 0.55.
DISCUSSION
Using symbolic computing, the Lagrangian solution of
nonlinear progressive waves is obtained by directly solving
the Lagrangian governing equations with the Lagrangian
wave height condition from Fenton (1985). The solution is
subsequently converted to the corresponding Eulerian solu-
tion. The Eulerian solutions obtained when U ¼ 0 are the same
as those obtained by Algorithm E introduced in Tsai, Chen, and
Hsu (2015) when the Eulerian wave height condition of Fenton
(1985) is used. This indicates that the Lagrangian wave height
condition is equivalent to the original Eulerian one. Using the
wave height condition to close the problem is better, because it
exhibits simple forms in both Eulerian and Lagrangian
descriptions when compared with other conditions in both the
Lagrangian description (Chen, 1994, 1996; Chen and Hsu,
2009a,b; Chen, Hsu, and Chen, 2010) and the Eulerian
description (Dingemans, 1997; Skjelbreia and Hendrickson,
1960).
Meanwhile, the present Lagrangian solutions when U¼ 0 are
the same as those obtained by Algorithm EtL introduced by
Tsai, Chen, and Hsu (2015). When performing the Euler-
Lagrange transformation, the Jacobian condition in Equation
(1) is required, in addition to the definitions. This is reasonable,
because the Lagrangian solution is not unique without
specifying the Jacobian value, as proved by Clamond (2007).
This result, together with the discussion in the previous
paragraph, indicates that the Lagrangian and Eulerian
solutions are equivalent, because either one can be trans-
formed into the other one.
In addition, the better description of the Lagrangian solution
than the corresponding Eulerian solution on the wave profile is
simply because of the exactness of the Lagrangian free-surface
boundary condition in Equation (6). One cannot conclude that
the Lagrangian solution is more accurate for all other physical
quantities, because the two solutions are equivalent but
expressed differently.
Furthermore, the solutions obtained by the symbolic code can
be implemented by high-level programming languages, such as
Fortran and Cþþ. This enables efficient computations for
practical engineering applications.
Finally, potential applications of the proposed symbolic
method are discussed. The proposed symbolic method provides
an illustrative example for the situation in which the
considered problem is governed by a hierarchical system of
differential equations with known solution expressions. The
method has also been applied to the problem of interfacial
waves (Hsu and Tsai, 2016). The authors have performed some
Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 00, No. 0, 0000
0
early investigations to problems of short-crested waves (Hsu,
Tsuchiya, and Silvester, 2006) and waves on slope beaches
(Chen and Li, 2015; Chen and Yang, 2015).
CONCLUSIONS
In this study, the Lagrangian solutions of nonlinear steady
progressive waves on a uniform current over a finite depth
were obtained and subsequently transformed to the corre-
sponding Eulerian solutions. The Lagrangian governing
equations and the equations of the Lagrange-Euler transfor-
mation were demonstrated to be of the Taylor-Fourier series. In
addition, operators to obtain Taylor-Fourier coefficients were
introduced and implemented to obtain the desired solutions.
The existing fifth-order Eulerian and Lagrangian solutions in
the literature were extended to the seventh order by the
proposed method. The correctness of the solution was con-
firmed by the Richardson extrapolation to the limit. In
addition, the accuracy improvement of the seventh-order
solutions over the existing solutions was demonstrated.
Finally, the equivalence of the Lagrangian and Eulerian
solutions was discussed. Some source codes are freely available
online for practical applications and further studies.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This article is dedicated to the first author’s wife, Olivia,
who brought him the second pair of twins, Yuan and Liran, on
March 6, 2015.
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Cokelet, E., 1977. Steep gravity waves in water of arbitrary uniform Toffoli, A.; Babanin, A.; Onorato, M., and Waseda, T., 2010. Maximum
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Fenton, J.D., 1985. A fifth-order Stokes theory for steady waves.
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111(2), 216–234. POTENTIAL WITH UNIFORM CURRENT
Fenton, J.D., 1990. Nonlinear wave theories. In: Méhauté, B.L. and
Hanes, D.M. (eds.), The Sea–Ocean Engineering Science. New Consider that x̃(a,b,t), ỹ(a,b,t), p̃(a,b,t), and /̃(a,b,t) are the solutions
York: Wiley, pp. 3–25. for nonlinear progressive water waves without uniform current. There-
Gerstner, F., 1809. Theorie der wellen. Annalen der Physik, 32(8), fore:
412–445.
xða; b; tÞ ¼ Ut þ x~ða; b; tÞ; ðA1Þ
Grue, J.; Clamond, D.; Huseby, M., and Jensen, A., 2003. Kinematics
of extreme waves in deep water. Applied Ocean Research, 25(6),
355–366. yða; b; tÞ ¼ y~ða; b; tÞ; ðA2Þ
Hsu, H.-C. and Tsai, C.-C., 2016. Lagrangian approach to interfacial
water waves with free surface. Applied Ocean Research, 59, 616– pða; b; tÞ ¼ p~ða; b; tÞ; ðA3Þ
637.
Hsu, J.R.C.; Tsuchiya, Y., and Silvester, R., 2006. Third-order and
approximation to short-crested waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics,
90(1), 179–196. /ða; b; tÞ ¼ /^ða; b; tÞ þ /~ða; b; tÞ: ðA4Þ
Liou, J.-C., 2005. Lagrangian Approach to Gravity Waves and Two-
In Equation (A4), /̃(a,b,t) is the unknown function to be determined.
Way Transformations between Lagrangian and Eulerian Approx-
Substituting Equations (A1)–(A4) into Equations (3)–(5) yields:
imations. Hsinchu City, Taiwan: National Jiao Tong University,
Ph.D. dissertation, 96p. /^a  U x~a ¼ 0; ðA5Þ
Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1953. Mass transport in water waves.
Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London. Series
A, Mathematical and Physical Sciences, 245(903), 535–581. /^b  U x~b ¼ 0; ðA6Þ
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symmetric gravity waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 94(3), 497–
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]/^ 1  2 
Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1986. Eulerian and Lagrangian aspects of  U þ 2U x~t ¼ 0: ðA7Þ
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surface waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 173, 683–707.
Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1987. Lagrangian moments and mass trans- Equations (A5)–(A7) suggest that:
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2 2
Miche, A., 1944. Mouvements ondulatoires de la mer en profondeur U t U t
/^ ¼ U x~ þ ¼ Ux  ; ðA8Þ
croissante ou décroissante. Première partie. Mouvements ondula- 2 2
toires périodiques et cylindriques en profondeur constante. Annales which is sufficient to obtain the desired Equation (10).
des Ponts et Chaussées, 114, 42–78.
Moreira, R.M. and Chacaltana, J.T.A., 2015. Vorticity effects on APPENDIX B: FORMS OF THE TAYLOR-FOURIER
nonlinear wave–current interactions in deep water. Journal of SERIES
Fluid Mechanics, 778, 314–334.
Moreira, R.M. and Peregrine, D.H., 2011. Nonlinear interactions The substitutions of the solution expressions in Equations (8)–(18) into
between deep-water waves and currents. Journal of Fluid the governing Equations (1)–(6), respectively, yields:
Mechanics, 691, 1–25.
Rienecker, M. and Fenton, J., 1981. A Fourier approximation method x a þ y b þ x a y b  x b y a  x b y a ¼ 0; ðB1Þ
for steady water waves. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 104, 119–137.
Sainflou, G., 1928. Essai sur les digues maritimes verticales. Annales x at ðx b þ x b Þ  ðx bt þ x bt Þ  ðx bt þ x bt Þx a þ y at þ y at y b  y bt y a
des Ponts et Chaussées, 98, 5–48. ¼ 0;
Skjelbreia, L. and Hendrickson, J., 1960. Fifth order gravity wave ðB2Þ
theory. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(7), 10.
Sobey, R.J., 2012. Steep progressive waves in deep and shallow water.
Proceedings of the Institution of Civil Engineers—Engineering and / a  x t  x t  ðx t þ x t Þx a  y t y a ¼ 0; ðB3Þ
Computational Mechanics, 165(3), 181–200.
Stokes, G.G., 1847. On the theory of oscillatory waves. Transactions of / b  ðx t þ x t Þðx b þ x b Þ  y t  y t y b ¼ 0; ðB4Þ
the Cambridge Philosophical Society, 8, 441–473.
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p 1 
study of two-dimensional surface water waves propagating on þ / t þ / t  ðx t þ x t Þ2 þ ðy t Þ2 þ gy ¼ 0; ðB5Þ
q 2
depth-varying currents. Part 1. Regular waves. Journal of Fluid
Mechanics, 428, 273–304. and

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 00, No. 0, 0000

 Using Symbolic Computing to Obtain Solutions for Nonlinear Progressive Waves 0

p ða; h; tÞ¼0: ðB6Þ n ¼ kx þ kx þ ðrL  r0 Þt 2 fP3 þ P4 g: ðB9Þ

ðiÞ
Next, the forms of the Taylor-Fourier series in Equations (B1)–(B6) will Furthermore, using the operator Te () on sinnn or cosnn yields:
be explained. From the definitions (8)–(18), it is obvious to have:
sin nn; cos nn 2 fP3 þ P4 g: ðB10Þ
x ; / 2 fP3 g; x ; / 2 fP4 g; y 2 fP2 g; p 2 fP2 þ P4 g: ðB7Þ
Subsequently:
In Equation (B7), {P3} is the set consisting of all Taylor-Fourier series P3
sin nkX; cos nkX 2 fP3 þ P4 g; ðB11Þ
with arbitrary real coefficients Q3;i;m;n , and the set definitions are similar
for the other situations in this appendix. in which the angle-sum identities of trigonometric functions are used with:
Subsequently, observing the derivatives of the Taylor-Fourier series in
Equation (B7) results in: nkX ¼ na þ nn ðB12Þ
8   and
>
> x t ; x a 2 fP4 g; x at 2 fP3 g; x b ; x bt 2 fP1 þ P2 g
< 
x t 2 fP4 g; x b ; x bt 2 fP2 g sin na cos nn; sin na sin nn; cos na cos nn; cos na sin nn 2 fP3 þ P4 g: ðB13Þ
   ðB8Þ
> y t ; y a 2 fP1 g; y at
> 2 fP2 g; y b ; y bt 2 fP3 þ P4 g
:
/ t ; / a 2 fP4 g; / b 2 fP1 þ P2 g: Similarly:
]
In the derivations regarding ]b , the definition of rL in Equation (12) should cosh nky 2 fP3 þ P4 g: ðB14Þ
be considered.
Equations (B7) and (B8), together with the obvious relations of addition Equations (B7), (B11), and (B14), together with the definitions of /̃, g, /*,
and multiplication of two Taylor-Fourier series, are sufficient to demon- and y*, are sufficient to obtain the forms of the Taylor-Fourier series in
Equations (52) and (53).
strate that the left-hand sides of Equations (B1)–(B6) belong to {P3 þ P4},
{P1 þ P2}, {P4}, {P1 þ P2}, {P2 þ P4}, and {P4}, respectively. Subsequently, the
APPENDIX C: A MATHEMATICA CODE
forms of the Taylor-Fourier series in Equations (52) and (53) will be
considered. First, Equations (B7), (12), and (43) indicate that: The Mathematica code of K2n is given in Figure 10.

Figure 10. Mathematica code of K2n .

APPENDIX D: SEVENTH-ORDER EULERIAN SOLUTIONS

For the seventh-order Eulerian solutions, additional formulas, aside from the fifth-order solutions of Fenton (1985), are addressed in the following:
 
6pt2497110 þ 4577013 cosh 2kh þ 3657026 cosh 4kh þ 2329161 cosh 6kh þ 1190596 cosh 8kh
þ 398411 cosh 10kh þ 81414 cosh 12kh  3161 cosh 14kh  1794 cosh 16kh þ 24 cosh 18kh
A6;2 ¼ ðD1Þ
786432 sinh16 khð2 þ 3 cosh 2khÞð1 þ 4 cosh 2khÞ

 
11557605 þ 21344025 cosh 2kh þ 14643352 cosh 4kh þ 8170653 cosh 6kh þ 2538500 cosh 8kh

þ 385795 cosh 10kh  300960 cosh 12kh  20314 cosh 14kh þ 1359 cosh 16kh  15 cosh 18kh
A6;4 ¼ ðD2Þ
3932160 sinh16 khð2 þ 3 cosh 2khÞ2 ð1 þ 4 cosh 2khÞ


1244125 þ 1928725 cosh 2kh þ 1141396 cosh 4kh þ 186684 cosh 6kh  107900 cosh 8kh
 176150 cosh 10kh þ 37100 cosh 12kh  1487 cosh 14kh þ 7 cosh 16kh
A6;6 ¼ ðD3Þ
655360 sinh16 khð2 þ 3 cosh 2khÞð1 þ 4 cosh 2khÞð9 þ 16 cosh 2kh þ 10 cosh 4khÞ

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 00, No. 0, 0000

0 Tsai et al.

0 1
B 1589018985462 þ 3054193939488 cosh 2kh þ 2709219165939 cosh 4kh þ 2213997416553 cosh 6kh C
B C
BB þ 1661336214690 cosh 8kh þ 1138970490972 cosh 10kh þ 708350113572 cosh 12kh C
C
@ þ 395666005708 cosh 14kh þ 195724460131 cosh 16kh þ 84036007536 cosh 18kh A
þ 30388586828 cosh 20kh þ 8831541434 cosh 22kh þ 1895617494 cosh 24kh þ 249006441 cosh 26kh
A7;1 ¼ þ 4179693 cosh 28kh  3919437 cosh 30kh þ 172287 cosh 32kh þ 115209 cosh 34kh ðD4Þ
75497472 sinh19 khð8 þ 11 cosh 2kh þ 6 cosh 4khÞ2 ð49 þ 84 cosh 2kh þ 63 cosh 4kh þ 34 cosh 6kh þ 15 cosh 8khÞ

!
408506090 þ 762792180 cosh 2kh þ 608494934 cosh 4kh þ 412075566 cosh 6kh
þ 224487020 cosh 8kh þ 94046200 cosh 10kh þ 25072830 cosh 12kh þ 2588037 cosh 14kh
 995062 cosh 16kh  158585 cosh 18kh þ 10060 cosh 20kh þ 730 cosh 22kh
A7;3 ¼ ðD5Þ
41943040 sinh19 khð2 þ 3 cosh 2khÞ2 ð1 þ 4 cosh 2khÞ

0 1
B 15290099368 þ 28211179102 cosh 2kh þ 22243034846 cosh 4kh þ 14611400830 cosh 6kh C
@þ 7841536046 cosh 8kh þ 3118965289 cosh 10kh þ 764085674 cosh 12kh  63117932 cosh 14khA
 117813140 cosh 16kh  48456514 cosh 18kh þ 2544568 cosh 20kh þ 556767 cosh 22kh
A7;5 ¼  14850 cosh 24kh  54 cosh 26kh ðD6Þ
75497472 sinh19 khð8 þ 11 cosh 2kh þ 6 cosh 4khÞ2 ð9 þ 16 cosh 2kh þ 10 cosh 4khÞ

!
735085189 þ 1227947077 cosh 2kh þ 910795886 cosh 4kh þ 382064899 cosh 6kh þ 117632588 cosh 8kh
 87264287 cosh 10kh  49722049 cosh 12kh  36440942 cosh 14kh þ 16185007 cosh 16kh csch19 kh
 1422031 cosh 18kh þ 28723 cosh 20kh  60 cosh 22kh
A7;7 ¼ ðD7Þ
94371840ð2086 þ 3823 cosh 2kh þ 2984 cosh 4kh þ 1906 cosh 6kh þ 992 cosh 8kh þ 369 cosh 10kh þ 90 cosh 12khÞ


6248194 cosh kh þ 5393974 cosh 3kh þ 3972042 cosh 5kh þ 2419792 cosh 7kh þ 1162944 cosh 9kh
þ 382334 cosh 11kh þ 57804 cosh 13kh  1669 cosh 15kh  989 cosh 17kh  26 cosh 19kh
B6;2 ¼ ðD8Þ
524288 sinh15 khð8 þ 11 cosh 2kh þ 6 cosh 4khÞ


11834620 cosh kh þ 10298830 cosh 3kh þ 7728820 cosh 5kh þ 4906890 cosh 7kh þ 2578326 cosh 9kh
 þ 1088709 cosh 11kh þ 355850 cosh 13kh þ 80955 cosh 15kh þ 8105 cosh 17kh  888 cosh 19kh  217 cosh 21kh
B6;4 ¼ ðD9Þ
655360 sinh15 khð2 þ 3 cosh 2khÞ2 ð1 þ 4 cosh 2khÞ


3 9890490 cosh kh þ 8553720 cosh 3kh þ 6427500 cosh 5kh þ 4239300 cosh 7kh þ 2504046 cosh 9kh þ 1346769 cosh 11kh
þ 663135 cosh 13kh þ 275675 cosh 15kh þ 92475 cosh 17kh þ 22977 cosh 19kh þ 3643 cosh 21kh þ 270 cosh 23kh
B6;6 ¼ ðD10Þ
2621440 sinh15 khð8 þ 11 cosh 2kh þ 6 cosh 4khÞð9 þ 16 cosh 2kh þ 10 cosh 4khÞ

0 1
B204682036568508 þ 393228562989111 cosh 2kh þ 348317247555996 cosh 4kh þ 283950853772844 cosh 6kh þ 212300376997076 cosh 8khC
@ þ 144817641948188 cosh 10kh þ 89451964321344 cosh 12kh þ 49502099109029 cosh 14kh þ 24171043702496 cosh 16kh A
þ 10181723004279 cosh 18kh þ 3572345158408 cosh 20kh þ 983079076060 cosh 22kh þ 187360159500 cosh 24kh
B7;1 ¼ þ 16258146268 cosh 26kh  1871309540 cosh 28kh  405408279 cosh 30kh þ 67001220 cosh 32kh þ 14007492 cosh 34kh ðD11Þ
9663676416 sinh18 khð8 þ 11 cosh 2kh þ 6 cosh 4khÞ2 ð49 þ 84 cosh 2kh þ 63 cosh 4kh þ 34 cosh 6kh þ 15 cosh 8khÞ

!
7865383120 þ 14797192490 cosh 2kh þ 12289301020 cosh 4kh þ 8940194302 cosh 6kh
þ 5605859458 cosh 8kh þ 2942913215 cosh 10kh þ 1230777302 cosh 12kh þ 376502213 cosh 14kh
þ 70568224 cosh 16kh þ 3501761 cosh 18kh  1140210 cosh 20kh  100461 cosh 22kh þ 7566 cosh 24kh
B7;3 ¼ ðD12Þ
2684354560 sinh18 khð2 þ 3 cosh 2khÞ2 ð1 þ 4 cosh 2khÞ

!
741113326128 þ 1412241577590 cosh 2kh þ 1220673956160 cosh 4kh þ 955292747595 cosh 6kh þ 674672429454 cosh 8kh
5 þ 428097257894 cosh 10kh þ 242640146062 cosh 12kh þ 121906505321 cosh 14kh þ 53674003296 cosh 16kh þ 20295321429 cosh 18kh
þ 6334240062 cosh 20kh þ 1497759376 cosh 22kh þ 217827554 cosh 24kh þ 4033999 cosh 26kh  4564236 cosh 28kh  567684 cosh 30kh
B7;5 ¼ ðD13Þ
4831838208 sinh18 khð2 þ 3 cosh 2khÞ2 ð1 þ 4 cosh 2khÞ2 ð9 þ 16 cosh 2kh þ 10 cosh 4khÞ

!
50371994790 þ 95863961142 cosh 2kh þ 82789481811 cosh 4kh þ 64953901428 cosh 6kh þ 46626715989 cosh 8kh
7 þ 30791907220 cosh 10kh þ 18932238035 cosh 12kh þ 10866296014 cosh 14kh þ 5795909850 cosh 16kh þ 2790769026 cosh 18kh
þ 1165429125 cosh 20kh þ 411851612 cosh 22kh þ 117186859 cosh 24kh þ 24705788 cosh 26kh þ 3355221 cosh 28kh þ 216090 cosh 30kh
B7;7 ¼ ðD14Þ
24159191040 sinh18 khð2 þ 2 cosh 2kh þ 3 cosh 4khÞð190 þ 330 cosh 2kh þ 222 cosh 4kh þ 103 cosh 6kh þ 30 cosh 8khÞ


7698678 þ 14301028 cosh 2kh þ 11521240 cosh 4kh þ 8040318 cosh 6kh þ 4762392 cosh 8kh
7 þ 2175570 cosh 10kh þ 500934 cosh 12kh  2071 cosh 14kh  9310 cosh 16kh þ 3 cosh 18kh þ 18 cosh 20kh
c6 ¼ ðD15Þ
3145728 sinh16 khð8 þ 11 cosh 2kh þ 6 cosh 4khÞ

Journal of Coastal Research, Vol. 00, No. 0, 0000