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The Fast Fashion Industry: Out of Sight, Out of Mind

The groupchat, void of any sudden light bulbs, fell silent as my friends and I lacked

direction for our next National Honors Society service project. After a couple of long, awkward

moments, someone suggested holding a clothing swap to reduce fast fashion. Desperate for

something, I immediately agreed to this idea even with the thought of What even is fast fashion?

ringing at the back of my mind. A few Google searches later, I was able to grasp a general

understanding of the detrimental effects of the mass production and destruction of clothes.

Some time had passed, and I found myself trying to not lose my family as I followed

them through the strikers in front of the Macy’s in San Francisco, urging us to not support this

corporation.

“What are they on about? The clothes here are affordable,” my mom commented.

“Have you ever thought about why they are so cheap? These clothes that we pay for at a

discounted price pollute our planet and negatively affect the environment,” I replied, struggling

to recall my NHS project. Unfortunately, I was not equipped with enough informational

ammunition to prove them otherwise and felt helpless as my aunts remained silent, proceeding to

purchase a pair of Champion sweatpants at half off.

Despite these experiences, I did not eliminate fast fashion from my life entirely, but I

found myself at thrift stores more often and learning new techniques on my sewing machine. It

began with simple hand embroidery to spice up a jean jacket, and slowly evolved to transforming

pants that fit awkwardly on my body type to shorts that frayed at the bottom and better framed

my hips. I began to realize that I could maintain my fashion sense without contributing to fast

fashion through second hand buying. Eager to expand my knowledge in creating clothes and

participating in thrift flips, I encouraged my family members to allow me to hem their clothes

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instead of throwing them away to be mass burned with millions of other piles of clothes. In fact,

every stage of an item resulting from fast fashion is detrimental to the environment. Due to the

unsustainable manufacturing of fast fashion, these clothes have a short life span, and are unable

to be recycled into something new, causing the mass destruction of clothes. With this in mind, I

want to expand my knowledge in order to expose fast fashion more publicly, and explore more

sustainable ways to combat the toxic garment industry as a consumer. There is still much for me

to learn as this curiosity led me to my question: How does fast fashion contribute to climate

change?

First of all, much of fast fashion originates from the production of various fabrics and

materials that make up the clothes, affecting Earth’s land, water, and air. In an interview,

Environmental Science undergraduate from UC Davis, Elissa Lee Tianero pointed out, “It’s

ironic because agriculture is the number one point source of our environmental problems.” While

the growing crops itself is natural, the chemical additives and pesticides are not. To be specific,

cotton is used in almost every clothing item, as it “...is said to cover 2.5% of the world’s

cultivated land and yet uses 16% of the world’s insecticides, more than any other major crop”

(Turner). This dirty crop, due to its high use of toxic pesticides, is widely grown for much of the

garment industry, contaminating the soil, other vegetation, and the organisms that surround it.

Lee Tianero also stressed the destruction due to pesticides, as “It can stay in the atmosphere for

thousands of years because they have such a really long half-life.” Half-life is the time it takes

for a substance to decompose halfway. Pesticides have intoxicated Earth from the 20th century,

and will continue down this path with the growth of cotton. Moreover, this material not only

affects the land, but also uses up vast amounts of water in the production process, affecting clean

water accessibility. Statistics show that “The global average water footprint of cotton fabric is

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10,000 liters per kilogram. That means that one cotton shirt of 250 grams costs about 2500 liters.

A pair of jeans of 800 grams will cost 8000 liters. On average, one-third of the water footprint of

cotton is used because the crop has to be irrigated” (Turner). Water is essential to the process of

producing clothes, as it is used to germinate crops such as cotton, which is a thirsty crop that

requires more water than Earth can keep up with while depleting water supplies for communities.

Beyond the agriculture of cotton, “The process of making one cotton t-shirt emits about 5

kilograms of carbon dioxide — around the amount produced during a 12-mile car drive”

(Gerretsen, Kottasová). The air that humans breathe in is also negatively affected by this widely

used material because of how accessible and easy it is to process and produce. However, the

carbon dioxide emitted traps heat into the earth’s atmosphere, contributing to climate change.

Although cotton is just a small fiber that extracts a great deal of water from earth and takes a lot

of time to grow, it is one of the many synthetics that is mass produced to keep pace in the fast

fashion industry.

Furthermore, a popular piece of clothing that uses cotton is blue jeans, which contain

many chemical additives that pose threats to the environment. For example, “A single pair of

jeans may release 56,000 microfibers per wash” (Simon). When released, these microfibers are

let out into oceans and pollute the ecosystem in which many aquatic species live. More

importantly, these microplastics travel as “...researchers at the University of Toronto report how

they found oodles of blue denim fibers in sediment samples from the remote Arctic Ocean in

Canada’s north, far from human activity” (Simon). Oftentimes, people do not take notice of these

consequences because they travel miles away from civilization, but these detrimental

microplastics advance far and wide, polluting every corner of this planet. Although small, they

add up and eventually intoxicate the lungs of many marine animals, preventing them from

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breathing in clean air. Tiny microplastics that are easily distributed throughout the world cause

serious damage to the environment, as they unseemingly contribute to the climate crisis.

These small particles are a terror on the planet and specifically in the ocean, but they are

not even alive. The detrimental effects of fast fashion exist long after the production process as

even the simple act of washing the clothes made of these toxic materials can still pollute the

waters. Fashion and Costume Design teacher, Ms. Koski, explained in an interview that

“Because so much of our clothing now is made out of synthetic materials, manufactured fibers

(particularly fleece), when you wash these garments in a home washer and dryer, or even

industrial machines, those little tiny strands do break off and end up in your waste water from

your washing machine.” The cycle of fast fashion does not stop at the factories, but continues to

live on inside of people’s own homes. When people purchase these items contrived of

unsustainable materials, the remnants are washed away to pollute water systems. Microplastics in

the ocean are a menace because “…plastic is slow to degrade in the ocean until a long time has

passed. When plastic finally breaks down, it creates a toxic substance with a harmful impact on

the marine ecosystems” (Le). Although they come in small sizes, these microplastics add up as

they harm the living ecosystems, which negatively affect the environment that humans share

with them. People have become heavily reliant on marine ecosystems due to the resources that

include carbon storage, shoreline protection, and food. Koski expanded on this topic, saying “If

you are someone where your waste water is then being put back into the sewer system, our water

filtration plants are not equipped to strain out all those microplastics, and they can oftentimes

clog the filters at the water filtration plants.” While many believe these systems are no longer in

place, they have been for years, and unfortunately, they have not improved. People may not be

able to control these outdated sewer systems; however, they control what is put into them. While

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acknowledging the climate crisis and its contributing factors fast fashion has on it is the first

step, it is difficult because companies keep consumers in a choke hold to better their economy.

As consumers, people are susceptible to falling into the toxic cycle of fast fashion that

larger companies perpetuate for their own personal gain. This cycle received its name due to “...

the rapid design, production, distribution, and marketing of clothing, which means that retailers

are able to pull large quantities of greater product variety and allow consumers to get more

fashion and product differentiation at a low price” (Maiti). Nowadays, fashion trends are

dynamic, and to keep up with these ever changing trends, companies must mass produce clothing

in the quickest ways possible. The complete changeover of what is considered trendy and

fashionable persists to be shrinking. Due to the high demand in these latest styles, companies are

called to satisfy consumer wants by producing the most fashion in the least amount of time by all

means necessary. However, “by all means necessary” also includes toxic work environments for

underpaid workers. For instance, in the research book, Putting on the Dog: The Animal Origins

of What We Wear by Melissa Kwasny, “Chromium salts, the central ingredient in chrome-tanned

leather, are the cause of most illnesses. Why use chromium if it has so many dangers? The

answer is simple, one we have come to expect from global capitalist industries: tanning with

leaves and herbs takes time — up to forty-five days. Chrome tanning can be accomplished in less

than three” (37). The gasses released in the factories not only pollute the air, but are directly

inhaled by those in proximity; yet, they are still used because the safer alternatives are much

slower and not equipped to match the spontaneous transitions of fashion. Overtime, clothing has

shifted from a need to a want as it “... doesn’t play a major role in Americans’ cost of living,

unlike housing, education and health care. We’re spending less money for more items of clothing

than ever before, enabled by the giant fast fashion industry. Americans buy five times as much

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clothing now as we did in 1980. We don’t keep most of that clothing, though” (Josephson). In the

past, people only had enough clothes to satisfy their needs. However, clothing is not so much a

need for consumers anymore due to cheaper prices. When prices are low, demand is high, and

people feel compelled to buy more for less. It is difficult for consumers to refuse such satisfying

deals on trendy clothing because they are not aware of the darker side of fast fashion.

Although fast fashion causes detrimental effects to our environment, it is not the first

thing people think of when it comes to the climate crisis because people do not see it in their own

backyard. The bottom line for companies is profit, which “...is the balance of monetary expenses

versus gain. Throughout modern industrial history, this has often been the sole criterion in

determining success” (Kwasny 178). The motto that most companies live by is one that ensures

the most money. Capital gain drives them to continue these inhumane practices and ignore the

numerous caution signs that advocate for change. In the same interview, Koski recalled her

experience with greenwashing in companies, explaining:

When I was doing my research a year ago into bad labor practices, I discovered that Ross

has their own clothing lines that sell fast fashion products through their stores, and they

were paying their workers by the piece, which is far under minimum wage. I’m buying

items that would normally end up in a landfill or a dump because they are basically being

resold, and so I thought I was doing a great thing by going in and picking these products

and saving them. I think a lot of other people think the same thing. (Koski)

Oftentimes, companies put up a facade and claim they go green. As a result, many customers are

not even aware of the consequences they have for purchasing these items from them. Because of

their lack of recognition for this prominent issue in the fashion industry, they are unable to

identify the problem in order to act on it. Alternatives exist in the industry, “...but because there

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are no restrictions or laws, the fashion industry continues to actively participate in using plastic

fibers in their clothes” (Portela). Much of what is happening in the garment industry occurs in

developing nations. However, in the car industry, people see it in industrialized nations and

acknowledge it. On the other hand, so much of the garment industry is outsourced from

Southeast Asia, making it much easier to turn a blind eye to it for a lot of people in Europe and

America. After completing short and inexpensive interactions for these unsustainable items, the

cheap fabrics wear away within a few uses and are unable to be recycled.

Unfortunately, the short life span of these clothes lack the ability to reincarnate into

something new. Clothes from the fast fashion industry are difficult to recycle and decompose

because of the way they are manufactured. According to research, “H&M Group says it collected

more than 29,005 metric tons of unwanted clothing in 2019, but admits that for many types of

textiles, viable recycling solutions either do not exist or are not commercially available at scale”

(Gerretsen, Kottasová). Mass production leads to a surplus of supply. However, due to their

cheap construction, the extra clothing items have no place in the fashion industry anymore, for

trends are dynamic, and these clothes cannot be recycled into a new garment. Furthermore, due

to the cheap construction, “...about 60 percent of them — are not recyclable in the first place,

which is why they end up in landfills or burned” (Portela). After the surplus of clothing,

companies have no other option than to discard them away. When they are burned, they release

carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gasses into the atmosphere, polluting the air that surrounds

them. These textiles are not recyclable because “Many of our clothes are made with plastic.

These fibers are made from crude oil, which makes them almost impossible to reuse in other

ways — meaning they cannot be recycled or composed” (Portela). Due to the large amount of

microplastics, those that remain in landfills do not decompose. For many items, they are not even

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used once before they get thrown away never to be worn. The short life span of each item

produced by fast fashion is quick, unsustainable, and pollutes the earth within every stage of its

existence.

During each stage of fast fashion, the production, use, and destruction of clothes, earth

becomes significantly more polluted. Large corporations keep consumers in a chokehold by

concealing the truths behind their sustainability and perpetuating a need to keep up with the ever

changing fashion trends. While it is true that these companies are influential to the economy,

their desire to maximize profit is at the expense of the environment and the organisms that thrive

there. What is occurring in the garment industry is like the saying, “out of sight, out of mind,”

and it is imperative that humans begin acknowledging the gravity of fast fashion by changing

their lifestyle for the betterment of this planet’s future. However, climate change is already

noticeably happening right now, and its detrimental effects will outlive humanity. Americans are

enduring a second winter and flooding, while the other side of the country is in a massive heat

wave. Although humans exist in an instant-gratification society, this mindset can slowly be

changed by being conscious of each purchase and knowing the difference between a need and a

want. Before purchasing a new piece of clothing, it is everyone’s duty to ask themselves if they

really need this many tops or bottoms that last only a few uses, especially when it is at the cost of

this dying environment. This small interaction of purchasing unsustainable items in bulk may

seem insignificant at first, but it holds long lasting consequences that contribute heavily to

climate change. Being conscious of the purchase and how much of it is a crucial first step to

change, which can only be done if everyone does their role in adapting to a more sustainable

lifestyle. Climate change is happening now, and it is only a matter of time until the consequences

become irreversible.

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Works Cited

Gerretsen, Isabelle, and Ivana Kottasová. “The World Is Paying a High Price for Cheap Clothes |

CNN Business.” CNN, Cable News Network, 6 May 2020,

https://www.cnn.com/2020/05/03/business/cheap-clothing-fast-fashion-climate-change-intl

/index.html. Accessed 21 February 2023.

Josephson, Amelia. “The Economics of Fast Fashion.” Smartasset, 30 Sep. 2022,

https://smartasset.com/credit-cards/the-economics-of-fast-fashion. Accessed 30 January

2023.

Koski, Michelle. Personal Interview. 3 March 2023.

Kwasny, Melissa. Putting on the Dog: The Animal Origins of What We Wear. San Antonio:

Trinity University Press, 2019. Print.

Le, Ngan. “The Impact of Fast Fashion on the Environment - PSCI.” Princeton University, The

Trustees of Princeton University, 20 July 2020, https://psci.princeton.edu/tips/2020/

7/20/the-impact-of-fast-fashion-on-the-environment. Accessed 30 January 2023.

Lee Tianero, Elissa. Personal Interview. 11 March 2023.

Maiti, Rashmila. “Fast Fashion: Its Detrimental Effect on the Environment.” Earth.Org, 1 Dec.

2022, https://earth.org/fast-fashions-detrimental-effect-on-the-environment/. Accessed 30

January 2023.

Portela, Valentina. “The Fashion Industry Waste Is Drastically Contributing to Climate Change.”

CALPIRG, 14 Sep. 2022, https://pirg.org/california/articles/the-fashion-industry-waste-is

-drastically-contributing-to-climate-change/#:~:text=85%25%20Of%20Our%20Clothes%2

0End%20Up%20In%20Landfills%20Or%20Burned&text=Furthermore%2C%20it%20is%

20estimated%20that,11%2Dyear%2Dold%20child. Accessed 20 February 2023.

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Simon, Matt. “Your Beloved Blue Jeans Are Polluting the Ocean—Big Time.” Wired, 2 Sep.

2020, https://www.wired.com/story/your-blue-jeans-are-polluting-the-ocean/. Accessed 8

March 2023.

Turner, Jane. “The Ethics of Cotton Production.” Ethical Consumer, Ethical Consumer Research

Association, 22 Nov. 2022, https://www.ethicalconsumer.org/fashion-clothing/ethics-co

tton-production#:~:text=Cotton%20is%20said%20to%20cover,world%27s%20%27dirties

t%27%20agricultural%20commodity. Accessed 20 February 2023.

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