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THE TRADITIONAL

ARCHITECTURE
of the

KATHMANDU VALLEY

Wolfgang Korn

RATNA PUSTAK BHANDAR


KATHMANDU NEPAL

1998
Wolfgang Korn
THE TRADITION.Ai. ARCHITEC'1·URE
OF THE KATHMANDU ·VALLEY

First edition 1976


Reprinted 1979
Reptinted 1993
Reprinted 1998
Cop¥right : Publi.sher

THE PURPOSE OF
BIBLIOTHECA HIMALAYICA
IS· TO MAKE AVA ILABLE W O FlKS
ON THE CIVILIZATIONS AN D NATURE
OF CENTRAL A SIA AN D TH E HIMALAYA

llBLIOTHECA HIMALAYICA

© H. K. Kulciy
/

Printed at : Bhargava Offsets, Vara11asi


THE TRADITIONAL
ARCHITECTURE
,of the

KA'I,HMANDU VALLEY
BIBLIOTHECA HIM AL AYICA
SERIES lll VOLUME 11

Edited by:
H. ~K. Kul6y
CONTENTS

Conten~ .. ...... .. . vi
List of ntustratl,' DS . vii
Foreword ... ......... ... ................. .. . ... ... ... xi
Preface ...... .. . ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... . ... ... ... ... ... ... xiii
Introduction ... ...... ... ......... ............... . .. .. . ... ........ . xv
Chapter 1 TIIE URBAN SEITLEMENT
bitroauction . .. .. . ... .. . .. . 2
Historic Development of Settlements 6
Patan .............. . 8
Bhadgaun ... ......... .. . 9
Kathmandu .. ......... . 9

Chapter II THE FORTIFICATION


Introduction .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . ... .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . ... 12
History .. . ... ... ... ... .. . ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .. ... ... 12
Examples : Gate of the Darbar in Thimi ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 15
Kwatha of Lubhu ... ... ... ... ... .. . ... ... ... ... ... 16

Chapter III THE NEW ARI HOUSE


Introduction ... .. . .. . .. . ... .. . . .. ... .. . .. . ... ... . . . 18
History ... ... ... .. . . ... ... ... ... 19
Facade ...... ,.. ... .. . ... ... ... ... 20
Functions and Allocation of Space .. . 22
Chapter IV THE BUDDHIST MONASTERY
Introduction... .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . 26
History ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .. . ... ... ... ... 26
Examples : Bahil: Pin tu Bahil .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. 28
Bahal : Chhusya Bahal .. . .. . .. . .. .. . .. . .. . .. . 30
Bahal-Bahi/: Nauddha Bahal 34
Other Types of Viharas 36
Comparative Study .. . .. . .. . .. . 36
Chapter V THE HINDU PRIEST HOUSE
Introduction . . . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . , .. .. . .. . .. . 40
History ...... ...................... .. .. i •• • ••• ••• • •• ••• 40
Example : Pujahari Math ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 42

v
Chapter VI THE ROYAL PALACE
Introduction 50
The Sundari Chauk 51
History ... ... . .. 53
Examples: The Palace of Patan 54
The Palace of Bhadgaun 57
The Palace of Kathmandu 60
Chapter VII THE TEMPLE
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . ... . . . . . . . . . . .. ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 66
History ... ... ... ... ... ... . .. 66
Nomenclature ... ... •.. 67
Religious Significance of the Dega 68
Construction/Design . . . . .. 68
Examples: Ganesh Dega . . . . .. 73
Narayan Dega 74
Char Narayan Dega 76
Maju Dega ... .. . 80
Summa1y 84
Chapter VIII THE PUBLIC RESTHOUSE
Introduction ... 86
History ...I ... ... ... .. ... ... ... ... ... ... . .. 88
Examples: Pati ... . .. ... ... .., ... 88
Sattal : ... ... ... ... ... ... ... . .. 90
Sattal of a two-storeyed Pali type 91
Sattal of Mandapa type 92
Chapat ... ... ... ... ... . ..... 102

Chapter IX BUILDING DETAILS


Introduction ... ... ... 104
Brickwork: Foundation and Walls 104
Posts, Lintels and Beams 106
Doors ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... . ..... 107
Windows . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . 108
Roofs ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .. . ... 110
NOTES 113
BIBLIOGRAPHY ... 115

INDEX ...... ...... .. . 117


TRANSCRIPTION ......... ... ... ... . . . . . . l25

VI
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A LINE DRAWINGS
by Woijgang Korn i
Urawi n~ Number Page

NEPAL, location ma p showing the relative size and


position of the K a thmandu Valley . . ... ... ... . .. xvi
Chapter I 2 Kho kana, a co m.pact village in a rura l a rea ... . . . .. . . . . 2
3a Tadhan Ba hal T o i, K athmandu ... ..... . ... ...... .. . . .. 3
3b Kolachhen Toi, Kho ka na ... .. .. . ... ... ... ... .. . .. . 3
4 Kathmandu .. . .. .. .. . ... ..... -........ ...... . .. . .. ... 4
. llPatan .. .............. .... .. .. . ... .. .... .... .. ... . 4
.' 6 Bbadga un . . . .. . . . . . . . .. . . . 4
7 The Kathmandu Va lley ...... ........... . ... ........ 6
Chapter ll 8 Gate of the Pa lace in Thi mi . .. . . . . . . . .. . .. .. . . .... I 5
9 Kwath of Lubhu ........... . .... .. ... .. . ... .. . ... ... 16

Chapter 111 10 Patan. Ko Bahal Toi


Plan showing typical grouping of Newari dwellings ... 18
11 Sketch of typical terraced dwellings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
12 Sketch showing typical developme nt o f fenestration ... Zl
13 Sketch showing sta ndard accommod a tio n ... .. ... . ... 22

Chapter IV 14 Tadhan B1hal T oi ... .. ..... .. .. . .. . ...... ... . ..... 26


15 Than Bahil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 27
16 Pin tu Bahil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
l 7a Chhusya Bahal Ground Floor .. .. . . . . .. . . . . . . . .. . .. . 31
I 7b Upper Floor .. . ... ... .. . .. . ... .. . 32
17c Section and Elevation . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . 33
18 Nauddha Kacha Bahal . . . . . . . . . . .. . .. .. . .. . . .. .. . . 35
19 Tc Sabal. · . ·· · ... ... ··· ··· ... ··· .. . 36
Chapter V 20 Tachapal Toi, Bhadga un .. . ... ... 41
21 Pujahari Math Front Elevation .... .. . .. ... .. . . ... ... . 42
22 Pujah.a ri Math Longitudmo/ Section ..... . .. : ......... 43
23 a Pujahari Math Ground F/o(lr . . . .. . . . . .. . .. . .. . . . . . . . 45
23b First Floor .. . . .. . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . 45
23c S econd Floor .. . . . . .. . . . . .. . .. . .. . .. . 46
23d Third .Floor ··· ·· ... ··· ··· ... .. . 46
23e Fourth Floor ( Roof Level) .. . .. . ... .. . 47

Vll
Chapte1r VI 24 Patan Darbar Ground Floor and Front Elevation . . . ... 50
25a Sundari Chauk Ground, First and Second Floor... . .. ...51
25b Section and Elevation . ................ 52
26 Patan Darbar Square. ... ... ... ... ... ... . ... . . ... . .. 55
27 Bhadgaun Darbar Square . .. .. . .. . .. . . , .. . .. . .. . .. . ... . 59
28 Kathmandu Darbar Square . ... . .. ... .. . .. . ... .. . . .. .. 63
(Drawing numbers 26, 27, 28, by courtesy Housinll
and Physical Planning Department.)

Chapter VII 29 Kumbheshvar Temple ...... ... ....... .. ............... 66


30 Sikali Devi Temple . .. . .. . .. . . .. ... ... . .. .. . ... . .. . .. 67
3l Temple Type A . .................................... . 68
32 Temple Type B . · .. . .. . .. . .. . . .. .. . . . .. . . .. .. . .. . .. . 69
33 Temple Type C . .. .. .. . . . . .. . ... ... .. . .. . .. . ... .. . .. . 69
34 Temple Type D . . .. . .. . .. . ... ... .. . ... ... 70
35 Temple Type E . . .. . .. . . . . .. . .. . ... .. . .. .. 70
36 Tempi¢ Type F . ·.. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . . 71
37 Temple Type G . .. .. . .. . .. . .. . . .. . . . .. . .. . . .. ... 71
38 Temple Type H . . .. . .. .. . .. . .. . . .. . .. .. . . .. . 72
39 Temple Type 1. . . .. . .. .. . . .. . .. . .. .. . . .. .. . 72
40 Ganesh Dega. .. . .. . . .. .. . .. . .. . .. . . .. . .. 73
41a Nftrayan Dega Plan and s~ction ... ... ,.. .. . . .. 74
4lb Front and Side Elevation ... . .• 75
42a Char Narayan D ega Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . 77
42b Section .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . 78
42c Front Elevation . . . .. . . .. .. . 79
43a Maju Dega Plan... ... ... ... ... ... ... ...81
43b East-West Section . . ... 82
43c Front Elevation .. . .. . 83
Chapt~:r VIII 44 Siteplan Vishnu Devi . ... .. . . .. .. . . 86
45 Siteplan Navadurga. Thee-ho... ... ... 87
46 Pati, Kuti Saugal Toi. Patan . ... ... ... ... ... .. . . 89
47 Sundhara Sattal, Patan .... · · ... ... .. . ... ... .. .. 91
48 Mandapa, Patan Darbar Square . .. .. . .. .. . ... .. . 92
49 Mandapa (Indra Sattal ) . Khadpu·.... ... ... ... .. . . . 93
50 Mandapa, Chaibahi Toi, Patan ... ... ... ... ... . .. 93
51a Kashthamandapa Ground Floor. ... ... ... .. ... 95
51 b First and Second Floor .... . .. . 96
51 c East- West Section . ... .. .. 97
$ l_d Front Ele~ation . .. . . .. . .. ... 98

VIII
52 Dattatreya Dega ( Satta l) . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
53a Lakshminarayan Sattal Ground, First a11d Second Floor 100
53b Section and four Elevations. ... I0 I
54 Chapat, Dupat Toi, Patan ..• ... ... ... ... ... I 02

Chapter IX 55 Section through wall, foundation and plinth ... . .. 104


56 Cornice detail... . .. ... ... .. . ... ... , .. ... 105
57 Assembly o( posts, lintels and beams .. · · · · ... . .. 106
58 · Door types . .. ~ •. . . . . .. . . . . . .. .... 107
59 Window types. ..• .•• ... ... . .. 109
60 Sections showing typical roof details I IO
61 Roof lites .. ... .. . ... ... ... . .. 1 11

8. SKETCHES
by Penny Sanders

Chapter I Road scene . . . . . . • .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . .. .. . . ... I


Chapter ll Sinha Dhoka, Kathmandu . ... . .. . 11
Chapter HI Newari dwellinll ... . .. . .. .. . 1'7
Chapter lV Buddhist monastery . .. . . . .. . .. . . .. 25 ·
Chapter V Pujabari Math . . . ... • .. ... . . . .. . . . . . . . .. . . .. . . 19
Chaptrr VI Patan Palace . . . . . .. . . 49
Pat an Palace . . . . . . . . . . . .. .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54.
Bhadgaun Palace ... ... ··· ··· ··· ... ·· · ··· ··· st7 ~ ·
Kathmandu Palace . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . · · · · · · 60
Chapter VU Tum~e ~
Chapter VIII Pati ··· ··· ··· 85
Chapter IX Window detail ••• ... .. . . .. J03

C. PHOTOGRAPH
. by Wolfgang Kom

Introduction Royal Palace Kathmandu ··· ... ... ... ... ... xv

IX
Foreword
Standard works on Nepalese traditional architecture measurements of monuments and represented in line-
are in great demand. Some of these studies were begun early drawn sketches. is a complete novelty introduced so success-
this century, and the name of Percy Brown stands out fully in this book by the young German architect Wolf-
most distinctly. But these early ac~unts were of ~genera· gang Korn, and gives the subject a new significance. ID
lised and impressionistic nature. The. ~tudy of this subject fact line-drawn illustrations can sometimes pro.ve an even
has been revived in recent years by both Nepalese and better technique than ordinary cliches for the purpose of
foreign scholars. Some of these studie5 have even been the architectural illustration, for they can show the details of
subject of doctoral dissertations, although most of them have constructional techniques much more clearly than a mere
not yet been published. Of late, Nepalese architecture has photograph. Mr. Korn has been making drawings of Nepalese
also been made the subject of study in many articles and temples, monasteries, palace squares, individual houses
papers published in scores of local and foreign journals. and settlement plans of old Newar townships in the Kath-
The great amount of historical material recently produced mandu Valley for over eight years now. Some of his draw-
on Nepal has given impt:tus to this study. Another ings have appeared in THE PHYSICAL DEVELOPMENT
helpful factor has been the attraction of this architecture to PLAN FOR THE KATHMANDU VALLEY published
tourists and outside visitors to this country. Architecture by the Department of Housing and Physical Planning of
is one of the many things which gives Nepal's past a conti- His Majesty's Government in 1969. His drawings have
nuity with the present, because the old and medieval · been in great demand by scholars engaged in research and
"structures of the Valley do not exist.merely as empty monu- writing in this field, to enable them to illustrate their work.
ments, but are -in fact ac~ively used and inhabited by the It was, therefore, quite natural for Mr. Korn to feel inspired
present _day peopl~ of Nepal. to produce an independent work including his drawings.
The complexity of the relationship of this archi- It would be wrong, however, to assume that the merit
teeture with contemporary Nepalese society has also , of his book: lies solely with these drawings. There is aJso
impelled scho!ars to 1:1,se new methodologies to study a good and informative account of the architecture of
the subject more meaningfully. All these works, aided tlepal, forming the text of the book, culled from diverse
and.abetted by the restotational work on Nepalese monu- sources as well as from his keen observation of monuments
merit~ in -·recent year$, undertaken by different agencies, whilst drawing them. The text is also remarkable for its
such as the Guthi Sansthan, the Department of clarity of expression and its appeal to both lay and special-
.\rchaeology, the Nepal German Bhaktapur Conservation :i ised readers alike. l have no doubt that this book will make
Project and UNESCO, have succeeded in enhancing our • an important contribution to a thorough and competent
JCnowledge and appreciation of the traditional architecture study of the traditional architecture of Nepal.
of Nepal. A study of this architecture, based on PRAY AG RAJ SHARMA

XI
PREFACE
The book you a re about to read is the product of merely outlines the existing possibilities ana leaves scope
many visits to Nepal over a period of several years as well for expansion at a later date. If the book has only achieved
as being a witness to the transformation of a hobby into this aim, it '1~s fulfilled its purpose.
a serious and totally involving enterprise. After my origi-
nal contract expired, favourable circumstances enabled me Had it not been for the help and assistance from the
to extend my stay in Nepal from the o riginal two to six very beg:nning of my Nepali friend, Madan Man Singh
years. T amrakar , I must admit that I w.ould never have reached
Inspiration to produce this book, however; stemmed this stage in my effo rts. To him I must attribute my meeting
from some ten years ago when, as an architectural ;i.udent many interesting people, finding information and being given
I was forced under the guidance of Professor " Jupp" Ehre~ the opportunity to measure many buildings. He assistc4
to measure and prepare drawings of buildin g~ in Britany me constantly at each developing stage, as well as th~
and Greece during semester holiday travels. •ritical period before going to press.
As a volunteer with the German Volunteer Service I cannot attempt to mention by name everyone w~o
between 1968/69 I was a ble to help with the preparation helped me in the preparation of the book. Neverthelbss
of the Kathmandu Valley Report and I was involved in the to e~ch and everyone of them I would like to .convey ~~
measurement as well as the compilation o f a list of the temp- gratitude. However, I must single out the following without
les of the Kathmandu Valley, which brought me into close whose particular advice and encouragemenl the book wobld
contact with the traditional a rchitecture. never have been achieved : Mr. Gautam Vajracharya and
Greatly appreciated financial assistance from rhe Mr. Danavajra Vajracharya who gave very valuable advice
Rockefeller Foundation made it possible for me to extend concerning building history and dates; Mr. Nirmal M'an
my studies with Dr. Mary S. Slusser in the spriffgof 1970. Tuladhar who, together with Mr. D anavajra Vajrchatya, -
For us both these were months of successful exchange of prepared the transcription of local terms; Prof. Ra m Ni~a's
ideas concerning Nepali architecture. Pandey who advised me on the history and developmeqt o~
In January 1972 I was able to return to Nepal to work the religions; and Dr. Michael Witzel and Dr. Prayag ·Raj
with the German team restoring the Pujahari Math in Bhad- Sharma who read through the text and gave much vall\able
gaun which enabled me to further develop my hobby. As advice. ·
J was uncertain of the duration of my stay in Kathmandu, As the original text was written in German I must
1 decided to restrict my spare time studies to the group of thank Mr. Robert Rieffel Miss Gudrun Meyering,
buildings best described as the "traditional Nepali style" ~r. Detlev Gross ana Mrs. Erika Drucker who helped me
omitting for practical reasons Stupas/ Chaityas and remples with the English version and Mrs. Suman Ranjitkar who
of the Shikara style from the book but nevertheless hoping has typed the drafts. My <>recial thanks :o Mr. John
to find time to measure and represent them in a later study. 3anday who h as advised me on the overall content of the
book and has prepared the fina l English version.
Despite these limitations the possibilities for diversion
were still immense and time and again new discoveries were
Las!ly I should mention HM Government of Nep'\l
made. Work on this new material, however, had to be con·
and give my thanks to the Housi ng and Physical Plan-
fined to after-working hours and the rare free day.
ning Department especially for permiuing me to use the
After a short stay in Germany I returned o nce again
plans of the three Darbar Squares, as weil as thanking
to Nep«I in July 1973, this time to assist in the HMG/
the Department of Archa~ology for giving me permi-
UJ\' ESCO Project for the Conservation of the Hanuman
~ton to measure and draw the Ka sht~amandae~·
Dhoka Royal P:ilace in Kathmandu.

In the meantime. the concept of this b9ok had been


established and final corrections a nd additions made after
seeking advice and assistance from vario us people. 111e
work can be criticized for lack of depth and for not being WOLFGAN G KORN
complete but it is, after all, the result of a l10bby. It was Kathmandu
intended as the hasis for more research and, at present, April 1976

xnr
Introduction
The Kathmandu Valley, often referred to as the of about 1350 metres. It is a high plateau surrounded
Nepal Valley, has over the past two thousand years shel- by steep and wooded mountains up to 3000 metres high.
tered the dominating power of the central part of the Hima- The floor of the Valley is relatively level, interrupted only
· layas. It maintained an independent existence and exerted by shallow streams. Furthermore, the Valley lies in the
a major influence on th~ surrounding hills and the southern temperate warm ·zone of the Himalayas with a well balanced
plains until the l~th century, when the Valley was climate a nd is very fertile. Thirdly, north of the Valley -
conquered and united with other smaller kingdoms to form ue two of the most accessible passes (Kuti and Kerung)
present day Nepal. over the Himalayas to Tibet, thus giving the rulers of the
Unlike the other smaller state~, the Kathmandu Valley the b~nefit of controlling and organising the trade
Vall!y has enjoyed a relatively continuous development, between and with both Tibet and India.
despite experiencing different waves of immigrants and However, the extreme topographic and climatic
devastating invasions. conditions of this a rea have nevertheless been a controlling
Because of its unique location the Valle~ has influence, keeping the influx of immigrants and invaders
many reasons for attracting immigrants and the interest of at an acceptable level.
neighbouring rulers. Firstly, the Valley contains some of
the most important Hindu and Buddhist sanctuaries and I Nepal is roughly 800 km m length and 170 km in
monuments in Nepal, and still attracts large groups of pil- width and contains most of the Himalayas stretching between
grims from far away places. Secondly, its shape and Assam, Bhµ.tan and Sikkim in the east, to Kashmir and
size distinguis.h es it from the other mainly north-south Jammu in the west. lt not only incorporates the highest
oriented narfd~-~ river v~lleys of the· ·midlands of Nepal. mountains in the world, but also a 40 km wide strip of
The Ya11ey measures about 20 km by 25 km, at an elevation lowland belonging to the Gangetic plain.

NEPAL, LOCATION MAP SHOW ING


R ELATIVE SIZE AND POSITION OF THE
KATHMA NDU VALLEY - 'lo- -il'g:;-'9119"'11 -

XYl

-
From the geographical point of view, it is not only a important one.
buffer state between its neighbours, Buddhist Tibet and A similar, but not such a peaceful developm ent nap-
mainly Hindu India, but also the meeting place of many pened among the rulers of the country. Migrant groups,
different races. In the south the l ndo-Aryan races are pre- tribes or dynasties moved into the Valley, ruled for a certain
dominant ; in the north the Tibetan speaking groups period and were then either driven out or absorbed into its
prevail and in the midlands one finds a mixture of Tibeto- population.
Burman and Indo-Aryan groups. Since the ascendancy of Legends of prehistoric times exist about dynasties
Moslems in northern India in the 12th century, Indo- such as the Gopalas and the Kirantis living in the Valley.
Aryans have emigrated to Nepal to find protection in the The Kirantis, il.t least, are said to have had direct contact
mountains. These pure Hindu groups, mainly Brahmans with Buddhism, as Buddha himself is said to have visited
and Kshetris, have spread quite evenly over the whole the Kathmandu Valley, later followed in about 250 B.C.
midland a rea ·whereas the Tibeto-Burman tribes have settled by the Indian Emperor Ashoka. Ashoka is credited with
and remained in their own areas. building the Stu pas of Patan, with giving his daughter Charu-
The Kathmandu Valley, as a centre of attraction, mati to the Nepali prince Devapala, and with h:i.ving estab-
forms a good sample of such " tribal areas" mixed with lished Buddhism in the Valley through his Buddhist mis-
immigrants. The Newars are domina nt not only in num- sionaries on a broad and popular basis.
ber, but also in their high cultural development. With The Valley has always been one of the most important
their types of settlement in established towns and villages, pilgrimage sites for the Hindus in the central Himalayas.
their architecture and. artistry, together with their business Similar importance was given to Janakpur and Balmikina-
sense, they have usually outshone other ethnic groups in gara for the Puranic religion in eastern Nepal, Muktinatha-
the Valley. kshetra and Vaishnavara Jvalakshetra for the Hindu religion
in western Nepal and Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha,
It will be seen th~oughout this book that the Kath-
for Buddhists in eastern Nepal.
mandu Valley, with the changing infl uence of surrounding
Lumbini, located in the Tarai, adjacent to the Indian
areas, established its own general history, as well as its
border, is also where the oldest inscription has been diS<.O·
architectural history. Different architectural styles and
vered on present Nepal. This inscription on a stone
developments took place in other parts of present day
pillar, is attributed to Ashoka.
Nepal, the most important, besides the architecture of the
Newars, are those of the Sherpas and ThakaJis, which
It is only in the 5th and 6th centuries that the first
were both heavHy influenced by Tibet. All the other
authentic dates and facts appear through stone inscriptions
tribes or castes, such as the Gurungs, Magars, Kshetris,
and through Chinese travel reports, describing the Nepalese
Brahmans a nd Tharus, for example, developed their own
people living in the mountains, or describing the Kathmandu
domestic architecture but the standard was not comparable
Valley then ruled by the Licchavi Dynasty (2nd to 8th
with that of the Newars, Sherpas and Thakalis. Therefore,
centuries A.O.), The founders of this Nepalese Licchavi
it is not possible, or even correct, to talk about a "Nepali
dynasty were driven from Vaishali in north-east India in
Style" of architecture. Each style within the country has
the 2nd century. They were Indo-Aryans who had taken
to be presented in its own right.
power from the Tibeto-Burmese Kirantis and under their
History shows that generally- the indigenous popula- dominance agriculture, crafts, the arts and trading flouri-
tion was not driven away or urUtuly suppressed by the· arri- shed in the Valley. They extended their territory in the
val of immigrants. A superimp~sition resulted, placing the late 5th century into the west of Nepal as far as the Gandaki
immigrants in a somewhat superior or even ruling position, river, to the east as far as the Kosi river, to the north to the
but tribal integrity was kept · intact. The reduction of the passes leading into Tibet and down to the lowlands in the
tribes to a single population group. by brutal force or reli- south, thus forming a state roughly. one third the size of
gious power was never attempted. The !>onds of tribe and present day Nepal. They enjoyed a trade monopoly bet-
caste are still much stronger than for example bonds of ween Tibet and India with well organized commercial cen·
reljgious grouping. The latter is an important feature for tres. They founded settlements, built palaces and erected
• Western observers to note, as different religious beliefs in both Hindu temples and Buddhist monasteries. Conside-
Nepal us~ally _ iave no_re~son for ope~ quarr~lling among ring themselves as incarnations of Lord Vishnu, they ruled
• the populace even if certain belie1s, ·sects or even gods lost the country in the name of Shiva (Pashupati), the heavenly
~

their role pr high value within the religious life for a less ruler of Nepal.

XVII
Not much is known about the other parts of Nepal of Vikramashila and Nalanda. These monks greatly
during this period. Later, the Gupta rulers counted Nepal as influenced the Buddhi$t life in the Valley, bringing with
one of their tribute-paying border terr.itories, but whether tl1em a large number ot manuscripts causing, among other
this was actually the case and how much territory was invol- things, the sr>read of Tantric Buddhism not only in Nepal
ved, has never been established. Similar claims were made but also in Tibet.
by Tibetan historians after the 5th century A .O . In this Jn tne 14th and 15th ~enturies the Valley experienced
case it seems certain that at least some parts of western a heavy influx · of Drahmans, introduced by king Hari
Nepal were under. Tibetan suzerainity for short periods. Sinha Ot!va. He also brought with him the statue ofTaleju
On the other hand, much later certain parts of western Tibet who henceforth became the pri"ate Tantric goddess of all
came under the dominance of one of the Malla dynasties rulers and strengthened the influence ofTantrism in Nepal.
from west Nepal. Hinduism also g:>.ined cor.sidera ble power a~ a result
T~ward s the end of the 8th c~tury the decline of of the enforcement of the caste·system by ki ng Jayasthiti
the Licchavi empire began an<l this ended in disunity Malla ( 1380-1 395 A.O.). T his caste system organized the
and confl ict. This period, lasting until the early 13th populace into group-; according to occupation and gave
century, is generally described as the "dark period" since each individual a certain fixed place in society, but at the
very little information and few architectural remains o. same time contributed to the formation of strongly defined
artifacts have been found. Of interest, however, is the fact and inflexible social groupings.
that during the beginning of this period the majority of However not only the Brahmans and Buddhist monks
towns and villages in the Valley were founded. It was had fled to the mountains. A considerahle number of
also about this time (9th century) that the cults of Pashupa- Rajpuls \Cry quickly formed petty kingdoms or chief-
tinath and Bhairav gained prominence, when Shiva became doms, which resulted in the first identifiable state~, besides
the most c;ignificant god, not only for the kings, but for the the Kathmandu Valley, in the midlands of Nepal. These
gene r~l public. This position is still unchanged and is principalities were later referred to unde-r the collective term
generally accepted i!l t.be who!e country. of " Bais:" (2:? princ~doms) in the west, and ..Chaubisi'.
If relatively little information is available prior to (24 princedoms) in central Nepal. Several of these so-called
the 13th century, the oicture reverses dramatically with states were:: insignificant and held little power either in their
the appearance of a new dynasty, the Mallas, at the begin- own area or in Nepal. The same can be said for the small
ning of tlie 13th century. Stone inscriptions or Silapa- states to the south and east of the Kathmandu Valley.
tras, and copper plaques or Tamrapatras, while recording Under Yaksha Malla ( 1428- 1482 A.O.) the Kingd ~m
the constnrction of buildings and sculptures, give a relati- of the Valley expanded as far as the Tibetan borders in the
vely precise picture of the development during this period. north, the Ganges in the south, Sikkim in the east and the
i ne-se sources of information are supplemented by manu- Gandaki in the west, constituting the greatest extension of
scripts, the majority not yet interpreted, and by various the Nepali empire up to that time. Prior to his death Yak-
chronicles, of which the best known is the Gopala Raja sha Malla divided his empire between his children, forming
Vanshavali .vritten towards the end of the 14th century. the kingdoms of Bhadgaun, Banepa and Kathmandu (in-
Under the ru le of the Mallas a period of relativi: cluding Patan). This arrangement, however, changed
stability began, lasting almost 600 years, and it weathered shortly afterwards with the creation of the kingdoms of
both invasions and rece5sions. The worst of these was Patan, Bhadgaun and Kathmandu. The Kathmandu Valley
the invasion by Sultan Shams-Ud-nin Ilyas in 1346 A.O, itself was divided between the three kingdoms, with the
during which the greater pact of the counry was laid waste. consequence that none of the three rulers was powerful .
The Muslim invasion in lndia resulted in the Himalayas enough "to prevent the disintegration of his own territory.
becoming a place for many high ranking Hindus and The kingdoms shrank to city-sta tes with limited geographic
Buddhists to seek shelter and safety. The Brahmans and expanse. Patan lost its direct access to the economically
Kshetris fled into the Nepali midlands with the result that and politically important passes to T ibet. With th!s division
they eventually dominated the indigenous Buddhist popula- the seed for further disunity and disintegration was sown,
tion. At the samt> time it was mainly the Kathmandu which was to become a common featu re in the surrounding
Valley which was the goal for the fleeing Budd.hist mon~s kingdoms when hered itary succession had to be decided .

xv m

I
Nonetheless. the economic policies of the rulers and nowadays it is difficult to establisjh an indi<;putable dividing_
che strategic location of the Valley ensured the wealth of line : Sh iva is Svayambhu anJ Svayambhu is Shiva ~
their states. F rom time to time measures were taken to
Prithvinarayan Shah's successors made such success-
boost transactions and to introduce uniform weighb and
ful excursions into Tibet and India that the British were
measures. Raw materia ls were imported from Tibet a nd
drawn into the conflicts. After a number of bloody battles
India, worked by the skilled Newari artisans into valuable
a treaty of friendship was signed in 1816 A. D ., forcing the
artifacts and then exported to Tibet. Salt, grain, furs
Nepalese not only to make territorial concessions but also
and medicinal herbs were exchanged between T ibet and
to agree to the establishment of a British legation in the
lodia, a trade which was for a long time e)\clusively in the
capital, Kathmandu.
hands of the Newars whose curr~ ncy was legal tender in
H owever, about 80 years after the rise to power of
Lhasa.
Prithvinarayan Shah, the palace intrigues had increased
to such a n extent that in 1845 A.D., Jangbahadur Rana had
In terms of the arts and a rchitecture, the constant dis-
elevated himself to the position of Prime Minister and
unity between the rulers had a n a lmost positive effect. In
de facto rule r of Nepal. For the next 100 years, the
spite o f continuous skirmishes a nd warfare, a competitive-
country was subject to the rule of Jangbahadur Rana's
ness developed which was manifested in ever more magni- .
successors, keeping the coun try almost totally isolated from
ficent palaces and larger Hindu temples. Buddhist mo nas-
the outside world. The relatively good relationships these
teries, public resthouses, streets and water supply canals
rulers had with the British meant for the fi rst time that the
were also constructed.
rulers o f Nepal travelled not only to Tndia but even to
The division between the petty kingdoms of the Kath- Brita in . This contact is also extrinsically reflected in the
mandu Valley enabled a small k ingdom called G o rkha in new b u ilding style. In the beginning mainly arabic forms
central Nepal to become the mightiest power in centra l domina ted the temple and palace designs, but this was soon
Nepal through clever political manoeuvring a nd well followed by the British neo-classical influence seen in the
executed warfare. vast palace buildings which were now appearing in Nepal.
The complete turning away from traditional form a nd
The most important ruler o f this dynasty was Prithvi-
a rchitectural style as well as the traditional building materials
narayan Shah (1723-1775 A. O.). whose seat of power was
had a marked effect on the continuity of traditional archi-
located in a fortress-like palace near the small town of Gor-
tecture and on the producers and users of traditional materia-
kha. He soon became a threat to the Valley too, but
rials, such as the brick makers, bricklayers, carvers, etc.
this did not persuade the three rulers of the Valley to unite .,
Thus buildings in the so-called " Pagoda-style" (the
and defend their possessions. After a pro~racted ten year
. most typical examples are described in the following pages)
campa ign of siege a nd conquest of individua l settlements in
represent the craft and architecture of the cultural renais-
the Kathma ndu Valley, Prithivi naraya n Shah i:i 1769 A.D.
sance of the Malla period, which began around the beginn-
was able to capture Bhadgau n, whose tinal fall ended the
ing of the 15th century and survived the beginning of the
Malla reign and ushered in the modern period of Nepal.
Shah period, but rapidly faded during the Rana period
Further annexations were made and the territory expanded
(1845-1951 A.O.).
to the east, west and south. Kathmandu became the capi-
tai of the newly created state and bc.:c:ause of that. ma ny In 1951 .A.D . King Tribhuvan was able to flee to India
people, miinly Arah mans and K shetris. entered the Valley only to return the sa me year to regain full ruling power
causing a great impact on the religious way of life. Des!)ite wh ich had been removed from his ancestors in I 846 A. D.
the support of the Malla ru lers, Buddhism had a lready slowly The K ing a n d his successors undertook to lead the country
declined, and today exists alongside the different forms of., back from its many years of isolat.ion. With the re-opening
Hinduism in an important but not dominant r>osiri0n. ·: of the country to the outside world, foreign inftuenc~s grew
Both Hinduism, in all its forms. as well as Buddhism. na turally, and have resulted in the importation of idea(
experienced their periods offlowering and of decline. Having and materials which have shaped contemporary architecture
co· existed for so long. they inevitably influenced each and changed decisively the appearance of buildings and
other a nd overlapped , as shown by Hi ndu Shaktism and settlements not only in the Kathmandu Valley but all over
Buddhist VajrayM~a in practice. The mix!Urc is such that Nepal.

XlX
~ _ __.
e::;::::<_ yI -

L---) I

CHAPTER I

THE URBAN SETTLEMENT


THE URBAN SETI'LEMENT

Introduction The human scale is always present. Palaces and


monasteries are found adjacent to ordinary houses; temples
The appearance of the towns and villages has not
are either squeezed into street corners or compete collecti-
altered appreciably over the centuries, as the design concepts
vely with palace towers. There is no sym metry to be found
and building materia ls have remained almost unchanged.
in either the squares and streets or in the open spaces in
Paved roads generally pass through fields to the front of templ~s and palaces. It is only found in the
settlements, via formerly narrow gates into a network of buildings which shape them.
winding oblique-angled streets and alleys, which then
In spite of the uniform building materials (brick,
broaden out into squares and courtyards. These brick-
wood and tile) the rows of symmetrical house fronts ,
paved squares and roads are the network around which the
palaces and monasteries are never monotonou5, mainly be-
several storeyed brick houses and temples on tiered plinths
cause of their different designs, ornate details Oi simply their
are built. The web of tiled and interlocking pitched roofs,
unplanned free arrangement in relationship to each o ther.
darkened by age, is hardly disturbed by attic windows,
tu rrets and never by chimneys. O nly occasionally can the Except for a very few instances, the main road s are
gilded pinnacle of a temple roof be seen rising above the former trade routes or tracks and the layou t of houses,
maze of tiling. streets and squares was seemingly unplan ned.
' ...... .
."' -~ ~

2
2 KHOKANA, A COMPACT
RURAL AREA
VILLAG E JN A A M---io5_o_ _,1_o_o_ _ _ _2oo
Frequently narrow alleys, on ly a metre wide, called
Galli. lead from the main road into the maze of houses.
Small openings link these Gailis with the courtyards lying
behind tile house-fronts. Special laws govern the right of
thoroughfare through other people's houses. The system
of building over streets and alleys became particularly
prevalent in the potters' town of Thi mi. where many of the
alleys are built over, and open arcade-like ground floors
form the thoroughfares.

In consequence the intc:nsely overpopulated districts


of some towns led to unhealthy living conditions with
insufficient light and air, forcing the people to spend much
of their time out-doors. Broader streets and squares
therefore became the scene of.many daily activities, such as
markets or meeting places, resting places, communal bathing
areas, studs for goats and cows and even a venue for family
feasts. Equally the sq uares around the palaces serve also
as religious centres because of the conglomeration of temples
3a KATHMANDU. TADHAN TOL in the .irea .

As mentioi\Cd above, a deciding factor in the develop-


ment of the entire Valley has been its trade. Thus we find
many villages and towns situated on trade routes criss-
crossing the valley. The historic necessity for defence and
the requirement that as little as possible well-watered
agricultural land should be used for residential purposes,
coupled with the need for protection from floods, caused
many settlements to be built on upland plains (Tars) in the
vicinity of streams and rivers. lf't spite of reports about
towns being founded strictly according to their orginal
conception in the shape of a circle, a sword or a sheel,
it is by no means certain and these reports still need verifi-
cation. It seems much more likely that villages, colonies
a nd groups of monastic buildings have been amalgamated,
linked by new roads and surrounded by walls to form
towns.

Hence .Bhadgaun lies on a winding mar~et street;


a crossroad forms the backbone of Patao, while the centre
of Kathmandu is at the junction of two main tracij_ngroutes
which dissect the southern a nd northern sections. Even
3b KHOKANA, KOLACHHEN TOL though the squares with their palaces surrounded by temples

A M--
became the centres of power, art and culture, it was these
lo Sc. , market streets which gave the towns their alignment and
· ~
SITEPLANS SHOWING FORM A TTON OF not the ruler's palaces. as has been the case in so many
OF DWELLING COMPLEX European towns.

3
Although the Darbar Square in Kathmandu lies at
the intersection of several streets, it does not seem to be the
focal point of Kathmandu. This is probably because the
area is divided up into several smaller squares, makjng it
difficult to obtain a general overall view of the complex.
In Patan the palace and the clusters of temples both line
the main market street without, however, becoming an
integral part of the street and its activities. Whereas the
palace of Bhadgau~ is clearly situated well away from the
main bazaar street with its garden borders directly on the
edge of the twon. The centre of Bhadgaun township is
formed around the Taumadi Toi with its five tiered Nyatapol
temple and its impressive Bhairav temple.

In all three towns the palace gardens are relatively


small, and do not disturb the general layout of the towns.
The irregular groupmg of individual bt~ildings 10 the palace
areas, with their temples, monasteries, palace wings, dance
platforms, sculptures and residential houses in a minimum
of space. is far more impressive than the buildings themsel- s PAT AN
ves.

6 BHADGAUN

/ CITY BOUNDARY
-- TRADE ROUTE
~ STREET

( i PALACE BUILDING
PALACE GARDEN

4 KATHMANDU A M t"*11oo ' ,- ''\oo.

4
lt was only after the turn of the present century that Carpenters Toi, Pottery Monastery Toi, StoneTountain of
the Rana family first began to build extravagant palaces Businessmen's Toi etc. Other Tols or even villages derive
and gardens on vast areas of land on the outskirts of towns. their names directly from the deities of the temples in their
Thus, the Sinha Darbar compound, the la rgest of the Rana midst, as in Bhimsensthan and Jaisideval Toi in Kathmandu.
palaces and the present seat of His Majescy's Government, One finds similar examples in the villages such as Harasid·
covers an area about half the size of the old town of Kath- dhi, the village around the Ha rasiddhi temple or Bunga-
mandu whose population is almost 80,000 people. In mati, the villaee around the Bun2a temole.
comparison, the old palace, including its gard~ns, coccupied
These temples, together with the resthouses, dance-
only 1/25 of the town space. The palace precincts appear
platforms, springs, ponds and sculptures, shape the'village
la rger than they a re because of the groups of temples erected
square, further examples of which are : Khokana, Lubhu,
near the palaces by the rulers themselves. These shrines
Chobhar, Thecho, Thimi etc. Only in a few cases are tem-
however, are rarely used by the common peo~~e.
ples, connected with th:: villages, sited beyond the village
Wealthy, high-caste fami lies settled around the Darbar boundary, as at Chapagaun where the Vajravara hi temple is
Squares a nd the lower castes settled, in almost concentric in the forest nearby, or Sankhu's Vajrajogini which is situa-
circles around them, the. higher castes nearer the centre and ted on a wooded hill overlooking the town.
the lowest of castes at the puiphery of the town. This trarli-
The improvement of living cona1tions in the towns and
tion, together with the town walls, which no longer exist,
their better appearance were grounds for each ruler's rivalry :
prevented the town> from expanding outwards: instead
besides building temples and monasteries, ~treets were paved,
they became denser. In Kathmandu, now the capital of the
bridges were constructed, wells wue sunk, wa~er.;po uts
country, the population pressure, brought about by the
were installed, drainage-trenches were formed, resthouses
immigration of mountain people and the arrival of Europe-
and dance-platforms were erected. irrigation channels were
ans, becamt": so great that the town was forced to expand.
dug and the <>upply ana ,distribution of water was organised.
This expansion, however, did not follow the usuall pattern
Efforts at beautification also included the building of ponds
of fragmentation and breakdonwn of old town boundaries.
and fountains to gain religious benefaction. Cremation
Instead spacious areas, mostly gardens around the Rana
centres (Ghats) were built along the rivrrs as well.
palaces, bordering the city's limits were developed and the
small villages and settlements next to the town became the Patan, with good reason, called itself "The Beautiful
nuclei of new city sectors. These sectors were integrated City", or Lalitapattana, and K antipur was referred to as
as a ring of new architecture surrounding the old town the "Big City'', Mahanagara.
often without even converging upon it. Today, however, the appearance of the settlements
and particularly of the three big cities, is cha nging rapidly.
T he similarity in settlement plan and the structure of Modern design and materials (cement, corrugated iron
towns and villages is traceable to individual building types, sheets and oil paint) interrupt the smooth silhouet•ee of
such as private houses and monasteries that a re found within the settlements and their brick and_wood colours.
them. The terracing of similar building elements around a ln the ~econd half of the eighteenth century Father
temple or monastery grouping formed street spaces court· Giuseppe describes the towns as follows :
yards, groups of houses and finally town districts or "Tols".
Because of the homogenous development of the Tols, it is "Cat'hmandu . . contains about 18,000 houses
impossible to recognize clear demarcation lines between Lelit Pattan . . contains near 24,000 houses
them. There are very few street names, and, where they _B'hatgan .. contains about 12,000 fa milies.
do exist, they are normally named after the Tols in which
they are found : for example Makhan Galli (Galli = alley) Besides these three principal cities, there are.-many
is to be found in Makhan Toi. The most _!~equently other large and less considerable towns or fortresses,
used Toi names have gamed their origin from the· temp1es one which is Timi, and another Cipoli (Kirtipur), each
and monasteries around which they have grown. Other of which contains about 8,000 houses, and is very
names reveal something about the Toi and its socio-econo- populous. All those towns, both great and small, are well
mic structure : Lower Butcher Toi. New Oilmill Toi, built; the houses are constructed of brick, a nd are three

5
0
or four stories high ; their apartments are not lofty; they Bodhisatwa ManjOsrI . . . made · the hill Padma, from
have dOOf's and windows of wood, well worked and which place to Guh~swarl he built a town called Manju
arranged with great regularity. The streets of all t,heir Pattan. He planted trees near Guhjiwsarl and peopled
te>wns are paved with brick or stone, with a regular the town with those of his disciples who wished to Jive
decilivity to carry off the water. In almost every street as Grihasths, or householders.... He then installed a
of the capital towns there are also good wells made of king, by name Dharmikar, and himself returned to
stone, from which the water passe<> through several China ... " ·J
stonecanals for t~e public benefit. In every town there .. For the city he constructed eight gates in eight direc-
are large square ver andas, well built, for the accom- tions and in the centre he built a hall, Darbar or Court
modation of travellers and the public. These verandas with four golden gates, placing on the entablature of the
are called "Pati"; and there are many of them, as well gates the aftamatlgal and the torus. The goldea
as wells, in different parts of the country for public portals of the gates were set with rubies and emeralds
use. There are also, on the outside of the great towns, and on both sides of the door were placed two images
small square reservoirs of water, faced with brick, with of the viras or demi-gods, and in front of the Court he
a good road to walk upon and a large flight of steps erected a pillar crystal surmounted by a golden likeness
for the convenience of those who choose to bathe. A of a lion and near it he built a temple, the windows of
piece of water of this kind on the outside of the city of which were of gold and silver, set with precious stones,
Cafhmandu, was at least 200 feet long on each side of and adorned with the images of gods and goddesses.
.. this square: and every part of its workmanship h~d a
good, appea rance." I
. The roof of the temple was of gold and on the top of
it was set a golden Chaitya. Again near the temple he ,.
Kirkpatrick the British explorer describes the city of Hhad- dug out a tank and named it Padmakar and planted a
gaun during his visit in 1973 as follows: garden and the city was called after his name viL,
.M,anjupattan". 4
"Bhatgong is, perha ps, still more superior to Kathmandu :
for though doubtlessly the least considerable of the three, Later we find:
in point of size, being rated o nly at twelve thousand hou- RAjA Sudhanwl. . . was displeased with this palace in
ses, yet its palace and buildings, in general, are of more Manju Pattan, and therefore changed his residence to
striking appearance, and its streets, if not much wider, a new one, built in a town which he founded on the
are at all events much cleaner then those of the metro- banks of the river lkshumau, and named Sinkilsyi
polis." 2 ~agari. _

Historic development of settlements RAjA Dharma Datta ... built a town e1'tending from
Only legendary information is available in different Buddha Nllkantha to Kotw41, which he named Bisll·
chron icles about settlements, palaces, temples :tc,from the. nagara, and peopled with th.e four castes .. .
Kiranti period. However, none of this info: mation has BhAskara-barma . . . enlarged into a town the village of
been substantiated by either excavations or otaler discove- Deva Patan, which was founded by DCvapala (c.250 8 .C.)
ries. This town he named Subarna-puri, or the golden town ..
Buddha himself is said to have been in the Kathmandu
Valley for about two or three years, living in one of the The Licchhavi Period :
Viharas. Two hundred years later the daughter of the Sivadeva-barma . .. abondened the Durbar near Bines-
Indian Emperor Ashoka was married to the Nepali prince wara, and one of nine stories in height was built ·in
Devapala, who founded the village Deupatan (near Pasbu- Dha- Pltan, where the Raja established his court ...
patinath) ; whereas the five Stu pas of Pa tan are ~ttributcd . The Raja built nine tols. or divisions of the city, and
to Ashoka himself. · · erected nine Ganeshas ... He founded and peopled the
place known as Navatol, after performing all the requi-
This may mean that Pa tan, or parts of it, were alrady site ceremonies, and establishing four Ganeshas, four
of some importance. The chronicles and legends describe Bhairavas, four Nritya Nathas, four Mahadevas, four
settlements as follows :- Kumirls, four Buddhas, four Khambas, four Gapna-

6
chlrts, and four chatushpathas or crossways with four Being a wise monarch he caused to be uncovered in
BhOta images. Then, after establishing an Avarna the city a Chaitya which Shankariicharya ~~d concealed.
deity in each tol or division of ~va Patan, he erected He also cause burning.ghats to be built, for the dead
an image of Siva. He invoked Mahl mrityunjaya to _ bodies· of each caste. to the east of BajreswArl Bachli
pr"tect men from untimely death. He founded and Devi, on the banks of the Bagmatl. 6
peopled . Mahiinagara and other places.
After making one dhoki (gate), two wells, thr~ Into this above legendary period fall the first authentic
dhiiriis (waterspouts), four Nritya Nathas, five davalis reports and inscriptions to be found, which occur more
(dance·platforms), six tols, seven lswarls, eight ~gamas frequently over the next three centuries (5.· 8. A.O.) and •
and nine Ganeshas, at Subarnapurl, he named it Gol, refer to practically all the settlements and towns still extant
because its shape was round ... in the valley today.
l'P COMIOUllUlllS
-'<.llOAOS
- • •Vf11$
, . - ° ' K AI, _ , VALUY
- -All\'°'~ °' ....., .
•cowacl lllWMI SEll~llT
llHl UllNll ll'llfAO
• -IANI IEWPU SITH

KATHMANDU VALLEY A KM~•....1~~......-~•5-..-......-..--~io

- - -- - - - - - -
These settlements listed below are summarized from (Lalita-pattana). He obeys, hands over t o
Regmi, Wright etc Lalita (the grass-cutter) an enormous sum and sends
Balambu as Shitatigulmak<1 him to build a town large enough to accommodate
Banepa as Ninappa 20000 inhabitants. But the town surpassed his ambi-
Bungarriat'i as Bugama, Amarapura, Bugayumi tious hopes : Under Vera deva, son of Narendra deva,
Changu as Doladri Lalita-pattana replaces as a capital and royal residence,
Chapagaun as Champapuri the deserted .town of Madhyalakhu ... 7
Deupatan as Gvala, Devapattana Another source in D. Wright's book gives the following
Dhulikhel as Dhavalasrolapura account :
Khopasi as Kurpasi "Bir Deva . .. founded a city, to contain twenty thousand
,.
Kirtipur as Kipu inhabitants, which he named Lalitpur. He built and
Kisipindi as Thambugangshula peopled it according to the following rules, observed
Lele as Lembatigrama on ~uch occasions. In the middle of the city he made a
Naksal as Nilishala tank underground, and it worshipped the Nags and
Nala as Nalangrama many other deities. He then covered the tank and
Pharping as Shikharapuri watercourses for introducing and carrying away . the
Sankhu as Shankaradeva water. Over the tank he built a chaitya and a dhara,
Satungal as Satvaoavagrama and erected a Siva-linga, a Ganesha, a Maha.kiila, and
Thankot as Kshonitpura a Mandapa, and built a Durbar for the Raj~, a ll of
Thimi as Madhyapura which he consecrated. Being a devotee of Ma:ni Jogini,
The big cities have not been referred to yet under their he named all these after the goddess as follows: Mani-
present names, instead only the names of sections of the talava, Mani-chaitya, Mani-dhara, Mani-linga, Mani-
towns. have been mentioned. These sections may well Ganesha, Mani-Kumara, Mani-Mahakala, Mani-Man-
have been the cells for later foundations of towns, as they dapa and Manigal-bhatta. He then built a Dharma-sala
are mentioned so often. For example areas around the (near Khumbeshvara), for entertaining thirty-three cro-
present Golmadi Toi and Tulachhen Toi of Bhadgaun are res of gods, and named it 1-aJitapur. He passed the
mentioned, as well as the central part of Patan near the rest of his life in worshipping those thirty-three crores
p1-eace and the southern part of Kathmandu, The mos of gods, and then obtained salvation." 8
important town of the Licchavi period appears to have been Patan is clearly the most ancient of the three bjg
Deupatan as records of this town can be traced from al cities and must have been the capital of the Valley for quite
eras. It lost its dominant p9sition, however, when thethre< some time. However, as the kings since the fourteenth
big cities emerged during the 8th and 9th centuries. Al century lived in Bhadgaun, the title "Capital" which Patan
villages of the late Licchavi period continue to exist up t1 still used, did not reflect its .. real position. With Yaksha
the present time. Some became important in their owi Malia's partition of the ~ountry into three kingdoms, Pa tan
right withm the valley, others, such as Lajimpat, Naksa shortly afterwards became the capital of the state of Patan,
and Bishalnagar have lost their individuality. and upon the unification of the many Nepali states by
Pa tan Pritbvinarayan Shah, Kathmandu was selected as the
capital of the country, a p9sition it has retained ever since.
The dates given for the founding of Patan differ and
there is insufficient evidence to fix the exact date. 1 ne transrormauon or l'acan s name to the present
day usage can be traced through inscriptions as follows
S. Levi writes : Yupagrai'na
"Vira deva ... was crowned . .. in the yar 3400 of the Yella i, Yala
era cf K ali Yuga (c.-300 A.O.). But in the traditional Yellode:;hl
list of Nepalese kings Vira deva follows Amcuvarman Lalitapura (Lalitpur)
who reigned about 630 A.O .... The same night, a Lalitakrama
vision directs Vira deva to create on the enchanted Lalitabruma
spot a town which will be named the Beautiful' Town Pa tan

8
Bbadgaua Kathmandu
Despite the fact that parts of the town had been known T he fou nding of Kathmandu fall s in the " dark perioct
for quite some time before, the actual "founding" under. between the end of the Licchavi period and the ascend~ncy
its present name of Bhadgaun or Bhaktapur only happened of the Mallas. However, it is no t yet established what
in the year 889 A. D . It is said that Raja Ana nda Ma lla the description "founding of a city" actually means .
founded the town in the shape of Shiva's drum Damaru. In the case of the three big c ities definite house settlements,
The following information is given in Daniel Wright's small villages o r Viharas, as centres of small settlements,
book about the fou nding itself:- existed before the actual founding of the town into which
they were integrated . It can, therefore, be supposed, as
" Ananda Malla . .. being very generous and wise, gave
previously mentio ned, that existing settlements were com-
u p the sovereignty over the two cities ( Ka ntipur and
bined, connected by roads, fortified by gates and walls
Lalit-Patan); and having invoked A nnapurna Devi
a nd tl'i'lt the Da rbars, the seat of government, had been
from Kasi, founded a city of 12000 houses, which he
built in a suitable location. Buildings such as public rest-
named Dhaktapur ( Bhatgaon), and included sixty sma ll
houses, temples etc. were prerequisites to give a settlement
villages in his territory. After this, the Raja having
the t itle of "town" (viz. Vastushastra). The first and last
obtained the favour and directions of Cha ndesvari,
function s of this process of town founding were extensive
founded seven to; wns viz :
ritua ls a nd ceremonies, to ensure property, health and wealth
Banepur near Chandeswari Pitha ( now known as from the gods a nd goddesses as well as their protection.
Banepa); K athma ndu's foundatio n date is still uncertain. In
Panavati, near t he Prayaga Tirtha of Nepal, celebrated Da niel Wright's book the following description is found:
in t.he Shastras, on t he site where Panchala-des fo r- "Gunii-kamii-deva ... reigned fifty one years (second
merly stood (now known as Panauti) half of the 10th century) . While this Raja was fasting
Nala, near Na la Bhagvati ; and worshi pping, Mahiilakhsmi, the goddess appeared
Dhaukhel, near Narayana; (no w known as Dhulikhel) to him in a d ream, and told him to found .: city at the
Khadpu, near D haneswari; junction of t he Biigmati and Vishnumati rivers. This
Chaukot, hear the residence of Chakora Rishi ; was the sacred ·place where, in former times, ~e Muni
Sa nga, neat Nasika Pitha. had performed devotions and practiced austerities, and
( All t hese towns are situated 1h "the Banepa Valley, east here too was the image of Kanteswara devata. To this
of the Ka thmandu Valley). spot Indra a nd other gods c:a'Tie daily to visit Lokes-
wara and hear puranas rec1.ed. T he new city was to
He established his court at Bhaktapur, where he built a
be built in the sha pe of the Kha rg, or swo rd of the
D urbar; and having one night seen and received instruc-
Devi, a nd to be named Kantipur; and dealings to the
tio ns from the Navadurga, he set up their images in pr' per
amo unt of o ne lakh of rupees were to be transacted in
places, to ensure the securi ty a nd protection of the town
it daily. The Riijii, being thus directed, founded the
both internally and externally,"
city at an auspicious moment, a nd removed his court
from Piitan to K'.lntipur ( K athman~u). This took place
in the K aiigate y.::ar 3b24. The city contained eighteen
During the followi ng centuries d ifferent names fo r tho usand ho use3. Lakshmi gave her promise that
Bhadgaun were used until the traffic in the city amounted to a lakh of rupees
K hopringra ma daily, she would reside there. By her kindness the Raja
Khopo Desha was enabled to build a Suvar.na-pranali or golden
Kh u primbruma d ha rii (on the street leading fro m the durbar to a bridge
Bhaktapura ( Bhaktapur) over the Vishnumati r;vcr on the old road to Thankot)
Bhaktagrama and hence he na:i1ed the cit.y Suvarna-pranali- Ka ntipur
Bhadgaun He then peopled it with various castes."

9
Nothing can be said about the fact that the town was
allegedly built in the shape of a sword, with its handle to
the south and its blade to the north, as there seems to be no
way of tracing this shape in the present layout of the city.
A great quantity of data lends support to the idea that
different settlements have been unified to form the large
town (Mahanagara) of Kathmandu. Two settlements,
or units, form the northern part and one forms the southern
part of the town. These two parts, the southern (Dakshina·
koligrama or Yangal) a.nd the northern (Koligrama or Yam·
bu) meet on the Makhan Tol-Kashthamandapa line, where
the palace, many temples and public resthouses are found.
Even today the Newars use their own particular descriptive
terms for different parts of the city : Thane, the upper part,
Dathu, the central part, and Kone, the lower part.

The different languages used for naming a town or


place correspond to the court language of different times;·
during the Licchavi time the language was purely Sanskrit
and later Nepali. But neither language was spoken by the
common Newari people.

The following names were popular for the town or


1ts major parts:

For the whole town :


Yan·
Kashthamandapa
Yindishi
Kantipura (Kantipur)
Kathmandu

Additions to the name of the town describing its size or


special attractions were much used, i.e. : Suvarnapranalf
Kantipura = the golden waterspout Kantipura or Kanti-
pura Mahanagara = Kantipura, the large city etc.
Names for the southern part :
Dakshinakoligrama
Yangal Kashthamandapa
Dakshina Toi
Yangal

Names for the northern part :


Koligrama
Yambu
Yambukrama
Yambumahanagara
Uttara Toi

10
CHAPTER II
T n ·E F 0 RT IF IC AT I() N

ll
THE FORTIFICATION
Introduction
Although defence installations in their original form asignificant role prior to, and during, military campaigns
no longer exist today;evidence of their existence is provided and battles.
by inscriptions, reports and a few structural remnants. No
illusrrations or exact descriptions have be.!n published to History
date, making a graphic representation almost an impossible
Licchavi inscriptions already describe some settle-
task. Moreover, the few descriptions of fortresses some-
ments as "fortified", which is evident in their naming of
times seem to be contradictory and, therefore, inconclu-
districts with appropriate Sanskrit names; for example one
sive.
district of Kathmandu , Dakshinakoligrama, through the
Mainly gateways or their foundations are in most suffix "Dranga·• becomes Dakshinakoligramadranga,
cases all that have remained of town defences. Existing which means that this formerly independent sector of Kath-
gateways 'have been extensively altered, retaining almost mandu was fortified.\ In addition to "Dranga" (fortified
nothing of their former appearance. The gates can no settlement) the suffix " Grama" explains what type of settle-
longer be closed since, apart from considerable widening, ment existed. In Sanskrit "Grama" means village, but
the actual gates have been removed from the jambs because may also refer to a small city, although undoubtedly during
they are superfluous today, as the gateways stand isolated
I
the Licchavi period, it meant a densely populated settle-
on the outskirts of the town. The only reason that some are ment with its own bazaar and administration. Many of
preserved and maintained is for .their symbolism as the these old Gramas (fortified : Gramadrangas) survived the
entrance and exit to the town. However, in the majority centuries as independent villages or towns, e.g. Satungal,
of cases, all that remains of the gateways are their founda- Kisipiodi, Thankot, Balambu, Hadigaun. Others were
tion stones in which the mortice holes for the timber frames incorporated into new cities, examples being Yambu and
are still clearly visible. The dimensions of the foundation Yangal in Kathmandu, Yupagramadranga in the vicinity
stones. indicate that ·the majority of town gateways were of the Mangal Bajar in Patao and Makhoprindranga near
hardly bigger than an ordinary domestic doorway. G olmadi Toi in Bhadgaun.
The former existence of other gates is also suggested These sources seem to support the theory that the
by the names of town districts (Tols) which take their naue founding of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhadgaun did not
from gateways, e.g. "Lower Westgiite" . The location of constitute the new foundation of a city at all, but instead
the gates and their remains reveal that the settlements referred to the consolidation of several neighbouring Gramas
(with the exception of the belt of recent buildings around and monastery complexes into cities (Nagaras, Mahanagaras)
Kathmandu) have not expanded beyond the original city which quite possibly were then surrounded by walls.
boundaries to any great extent since at least the middle
of the 18th century. Even today some gates are still Although recurr.ing references to fortresses exist,
found on the outskirts of the towns. In Kathmandu itself, very little information is available concerning enclosing
the limits of the old city are also easily recognisable during walls. Fortresses appear to have been constructed
ceremonies, such as the annual funeral procession, when a differently and described according to their location :
female member, usually the oldest member of each family (a) Fortresses within the settlements housed soldiers
that has su ffered a death during the year, joins in a march and weapons and were intended, not only as a bulwark
"around the city"' carrying on oil-lamp or candle to assist against external enemies, but also to maintain law and
the dead to leave their former life and place of living. order within the settlement. In the event of a threat from
Not only were walls, gates and military strength outside the Valley, the inhabitants of the various settlements
important fo r defence, but also the belief in the powers of mounted a combined defence.2 Where the danger was
the gods. particularly those stone figures of Hanuman and extreme the people retreated into :
Narasinha located on either side of city, palace and Vihara (b) Forest fortresses (Vanadurgas) and it is for this
gates, providing protection against real and imaginary reason that certain forests were well protected. In addition
enemies. Also popular was the erection of pairs of stone to the Vanadurgas (in Pashupatinath, Changunarayan,
lions at the entrances to settlements, palaces, temples and Panauti) there were also :
monasteries. Religious services, worship and prayer played (c) Hill-forest-fortresses, such as Svayambhunath,

12
Adinath in Chobhar, Vajrajogini at Sankhu and Santanes- Whether this fortthcauon protected the entire city or
hvar Mahadev near Chapagaun. These were usually re- just the palace grounds is uncertain. A further report
ferred to by the term "Durga" which means "difficult to about the upkeep of the fortifications in Kirtipur on the
gain access to", or by the terms "Ghar" or "Kwath" mean- order from Rajyaprakasa Malla Deva, NS 870 (A .O. 1750)
ing "a building surrounded and protected by walls". (Even reads :
fortified settlements "Gramadrangas" could be described "No one in the fort of Ktrtipur (garh) should fell trees,
as "difficult to gain access to" by the suffix " Durga". and any one disobeying this order would be fined mohar
and anka 12".4
As early as the Licchavi period important temple
(The order was intended to protect the inaccessibility
complexes, still today located outside the m:tj:fr settlements,
of the hill forts from the western and northern side).
had their own defence walls and other means of fortification.
Similar installations probably also defended temples now From the 14th century onwards, reference to
located within the cities, such as those still found at Kurn- defence installations become quite frequent. Not only
bhesvar, Rato Macchendranath in Patan and Btlairav in were settlements, monasteries and temples protected , but
Kirtipur. Apparently ancient weapons are still kept in also to an increasing extent, the count'ry roads and , in parti·
the upper storey of the Seto Macchendranath temple m cular, the major trade routes. Whether the rulers had a
Kathmandu. standing army ornot is debatable and the size of th is army
At the time of the Moslem invasions in the 14th is still open to speculation , but the largest military units
century, defences do not appear to have been very strong, would certainly have been the palace guards.
as the Kathmandu Valley was conquered and plundered Numerous reports from the 17th and 18th centuries
with rehtive ease. On the other hand, the account of the mention assaults that the kings launched against each
defe11ces of Bhadgaun by Yaksha Malla, whir.h is found in other. The large cities were seldom attacked, the main
an inscription next to the yolden Gale (Sun Dhoka) of the. targets being villages in the opponent's territory, although
Bhadgaun Palace, ind'cates that there were formidabJ.! strategically placed fortresses bore the brunt of these assaults.
structures posing considerable difficulties to invaders i J These fortresses (K waths) were captured only to be ~ecap-
their attempts to conquer the city. This account alsc 1 luted or returned voluntarily, to settle some later dispute.

gives the best available information regarding the construe· Casualties, including prisoners, dead and wounded, seem
tion and upkeep of these fortifications : to have been generally so few that to describe these events
"Yaksha Malla Deva made this fortification and ditoo as warfare would be inappropriate ; skirmishes would be a
and a high citadel, in which to keep troops and ammuni more accurate description.
tion. In building this fortification the people of the An account of two of such events follows :
four castes willingly bore loads of bricks and earth. The " A. o. 1671 .. four ministers of Srinivasa, four ministers
Kot-nayaka (i.e., officer in charge of the fort) will see of Bhatgaon -ind their hundred men as well as Gorkha's
that the people clean the streets and house every year Murari Sahi and Jagbania marched to launch an attack
before the 6th of Jyestha Sudi, and that the roofs of the on Mackwanpur ... Two days later .. . those of Kath-
premise~ irr the fort are repaired. If the Kot-nayaka mandu came again to capture Hitigvara. They saw
fails in this duty he shall be fined twelve da.ms. No a hole in the wall of the fort and attempted to set fire
horses, buffaloes, cows or .swine are to be allowed to through it, but the fort did not open inspite of it. Those
graze on the glacis. Any one whose cattle trespass who came t o Nyphala were arrested . Thereafter they
shall be fined one dam, and be macle to repair any da- atternpt~d to enter the fort. But they fled , only one of
mage thus caused. Any one n.ot attending to t11is them was captured."
shall be held guilty of the five great sins (M ordering of a
Brahman, a woman, child, one's own gotra [relative] "A. D. 1672 . . . the invaders of Bhatgaon and Patan
and killing a cow). If any rational being causes any da- started to capture 3 places in Thapakvatha, and I place
mage he shall be fined nine d ams. For every brick, in the Prakatapakvatha and they conquered at 3 ghati
stone, or piece of wood injured in this wall, a fine of past in the morning. They also hoisted their flags.
one dam shall be levied. Dated the 15th of Sravana One man from amongst the defenders was taken into
Sudi, Nepal Sambat 573 (A .D . 1453)" . 3 custody." 5

13
A real serious test of strength of the fortifications Hamilton also is not very flattering with bis description :
happened in the middle of the 18th cen~ury, when King ..Abot11t a mile and a half from Bhimphedi, I came to
Prithvinarayan Shah attacked for Several years the forti- a fort c:alled Chisapani, consi~ as a bulwark of Nepal;
fied settlements of ·the Valley. · Smaller villages fell quite but it is by ho means fitted to inspire: us with respect
,. easily as they did .not obtain help in time frorri the rulers of for the: skill of the engiheen..of Gorkba .. . The centre in·
·the big· cities. Only after repeated attacks and prolonged which the gates are is. commanded by the two wings.
seiscs did, first Kathmandu an~ then Kirtipur fall . However, Tbe whole is built of bricks, without any ditch. The
the main cause of Prithvinarayan's success in conquering wall on tbe upper side is about thirteen feet (four metres)
successive cities, was treachery and .the disUnity of the cities' high; but on ·the lower front, the height of the parapet
rulers which prevented them from agReing to a common being •carried round on a level, the elevation may be
defence po~. Thequa1ity of.the fortifications must have eigbtcen feet (six metres). Tb.is fort is always guarded
been very good, as for example, -it took many attacks O\'Cr by a company of seapoys; and, if fully garrisoned.
the period of almo~t ten yean to defeat the forces of Kirti.- might ·contain two hundred men" ;8
pur. How this town, located on a hill, finally fell , is descri-
~:nt day internal politics and the advancement of
bedhy Father Giuseppe in this ..Account of Nepal.. published
dd'ence as. well as the growth of the major cities makes the
in the year 1801 A. D. :
upkeep of old defence systems and the construction of new
"The inha bitants of Cirtipur having already sustained
fortificatio1ns in the traditional style unnecessary and
six or seven months siege, a noble of Lelit Pattan, c.tlkd
superftuou.s. But the setting up of a pair of guardian lions
Danuvanta, fted to the Corc'ha party, and treacherously
at the entriances to certain buildings, such as palaces, temples
introduced their army into the town. The inhabitants
arid monasteries, is common practice, and the performing
might still ha ve defended themselves, having many other
of religiou1s rites to protect the buildings against enemies,
fortresses in the upper pa rts of the to wn to retreat to : t.ut
both natu1ral and supernatural, is still carried out today.
the people at Gorc'ha having published a general amnc:-
sty, the inha bitants, greatly exhausted by the fatigues 1u..-
of a long siege, surrendered themselves pri son~rs upon As 11nentiooed above, only a few remnants of fortift-
the faith of that promise. Jn the meantime the men of· c:ations exist and no detailed study or attempts at reconstruc-
Gorc' ha seized all the gates and fo rtresses within the ting them have yet been made. Two reasons for this are
town .. . "6 that the fortifications do not fulfil any practical purpose and
After the establishment of the sta te of Nepal and the that their ireligious value (except for gates) is of no interest
: ·· con!olidation of power by the Shahs. the defences of the anymore.
settlements either crumbled through n~glect or. were Very little evidence of the walls and ditc:hes formerly
deliberately demolished. Reports and sketches of the sett~­ surroundi111s at least the bigaer settlements can now be
ments and religious centres in the Valley by the British traced. Th: best known example of this is the remains ol a
Explorers Col. Kirkpatrick (1793) and F. B. Hamilton ditc:h to the ncrth of the palace garden of Bbadpun. A few
(18J9) make no mention of city walls or anything that supporting; walls at the north-western frin,e of Kathmandu
could be construted as such. At the same time, they reported appear to :be the lower parts of an earlier defence wall or,
deprecatingly o n the fortresses of Chisopani, Kurrurbuna at least, thtc new wall stands on original toundations. At
and Tistung, which they considered to be of little worth. the northern end of Kathmandu, there is a dried up pond
K ':,r.kpatrick describes the following · two forts in rather near Chetrapati called lkhapukhu, i.e., "ditch made for de-
derogato ry terms : fence pondl.., which may have been part of the fortifi~tiQns
••The fort of Kurrurbunna seems designed to serve no protecting this Oat area of Kathmandu.
other purpose than that of an occasional retreat for the The re!Dains of original gates can be established as
cattle of its neighbourhood ; in a military view it is follows:
altogether contemptible . .. "
Existing unaltered Gates
" The fort of Cheesapa na is not capable, however, of
containing above one hundred men, and, a It hough the An exampl!e of this type can be found in the gates at the
masonry appears to be excellent, is altogether unworthy, western e111d of Bhadpun. These gates are on tbcfr
in a military view. of any further notice" .7 original foundation and possibly much of the super-

J4
structure is also original. Where it has been replaced it is by Nepali standards very large (I.~ x ·3.SOm) with
is likely that the original form was copied~ a small. man sized door (0.60m x J.40m) inserted.
The best example. however, is the gate of the 0.ld palace The walls are plastered and show the faint remains
complex in the viJlage of Thimi. This gate is found i:a of wall paintings depicting th~ figures of Yamadut
the centre of the long north~uth orientated village and on the left and of Simadut on the ri_ght. ·Except
is now built into two wings of a recently constructed for the finely carved posts the woodwork, inch1ding the
school which occupies most of the old palace _grounds. aate, is plain. A simple hipped tile roof with an overhang
Of the palace itself. only a single wing of one square · of about 80 cm covers the entrance llS well as the
courtyard remains. platforms.
Construction : In plan the gateway is about Sm long
and 3.30m deep. The central wall with the large door is With regard to the forts found both inside and outside
ftanked both inside and outside by four raised platforms the settlements. the following represent some typical exam·
(Phalachas) J\lade of brick and .s~ne. The central pte pies :

FRONT EL~VATION SECTION

I PLAN
Mi '1
8 GATE OF THE PALACE IN THIMI

IS
a- Forts inside Settlements
ln the western section of Kirtipur lies the temple of
.
The ditch around the mound is about 6m wide and al-
Umamaheshvar, which is the centre of the main fort most entTrely filled with rubbish. Shallow dirty water
of Kirtipur. In the centre of the little \'illage of Lubhu, partly covers the ditch and nowadays the whole complex
next to the important Mahalakshmi temple, is an open is used as the village centre. The house and the gat!s
square accentuated by an almost circular mound. The are now neglected and are in an appalling state of
wall surrounding the mound is constructed with boul- repair.
ders. As boulders generally form the lowest part of the Existing Gatehouses
foundation of a wall, it would appear that this should Gates, contain~d within a building or a gatehouse, were
be the foundation of t'1e fortification structure. also popular in former times. Examples of these are :
Only three sections of the superstructure of this for- the gate of the Than Bahil in northern Kathmandu and
tress at Lubhu remain - the outer gate (I), the inner the western gate of the Kumbheshvar temple in Patao.
gate (2), adjoining a two-storeyed house of the goddess
·Modified Gates
Bhavani (3). None of these structures shows any signi-
The best examples of this group are the Patao Dhaka
ficant building style, as they have all been a ltered and
at the north western end of Patao, the western gate of
rebuilt very simply, leaving little evidence of their
the main road in Bhadgaun as well as the westel'fi gate
o riginal appearance. of the Bhadgaun palace compound. Other gates of
this type can be found around Thimi. The most recent
gate of purely symbolic value is the gate at the eastern
end of the Juddha Sadak (New Road) in Kathmandu.

Gates, of which only the foundation stones remain, as


those for example near the Marudhoka Toi and Cbba-
laku Toi in Kathmandu.

3
2.J:l b- Forts outside Settlemmts
Santaneshvar Mahadev, a small Shiva shrine on top of
a steep hillock to the east of the village of Chapagaun,
may represent a typical example of a fortress over-
looking and controlling a section of the Valley. Parts of
the ditch and much of the brickwork next to the shrine,
are still visible.
The Changunarayan temple complex may represent a
fortified temple complex situated in the country away
from the bigger settlements. Its double-storeyed
resthouses surrounding the main temple, form a fort-
like square, which could easily be used for defence
pur}X>ses.
The ii\tended strength of the gates and walls still
needs clarification. It is suggested that a "fortified city"
was one protected by walls and ditches, with massive gates,
which had a kind of battlement resembling a balcony built
SECTION a-a
over them, capable of housing a small military unity comma-
A nded by a "Nayaka". Similar structures built above the
KWATH OF LUBHU /'1 M.---.1o-~z,,~"""'·3o. walls may also have served to shelter small defensive forces.9

16
I

1.

CHAPTER III

THE NEW ARI HOUSE

17
THE NEWARI HOUSE
latroclactioa
As the lifestyle of the Newars has remained relatively The aim of each family and every clan seems to have
unchanged over the centuries up to modern times, the ori- been the building of one single house around one courtyard
ginal building design and construction has been retained. or Chauk, providing them with both security and privacy.
The average house with its basic rectangular design In the majority of cases, however, different units make up
is generally about 6 metres in depth, while its length is the four sides of a Chauk, with at least one house providing
governed by the size and availability of materials. The access to the street through a gateway on the ground ftoor.
lengths range from a minimum of 1.5 metres up to 15 met- If the Chauk is surrounded by one large unit, only the
res, although 4 to 8 metres is the norm. vertical utilisation of space still applies, as in smaller units.
A characteristic and universal feature of this design Different staircases, generally located in the comers, lead
is the vertical room arrangement, which is not dependent on to separate room clusters, which, due to the symmetrical
the size of the house. Security considerations, and the need facade, are not distinguishable from the outside. As the
to use as little irrigable land for building purposes, caused size, l~tion and heating facilities of the rooms impose
the Newari house to be vertically orientated. Generally certain limitations on their use, the courtyard becomes a
it is three-storeyed, but two-storeyed houses occur among vital component of the house itself. It is at the same time
the poorer inhabitants on the town's fringes, and four a playground for children, a washing area, a grain grinding
storeys in the centre of town. The uniform depth facilitates area and provides an area for sitting, especially in the warmth
the building of additional houses on to existing ones, to of the sun during the winter. In short it is a multi-purpose
form blocks of houses. The extensions were of equal height, area, useful for most of the daily activities of the occ~ants.
the depth being determined by that of the main house, and As with the Vihara, the Buddhist monastery, access to the
either the fult depth of 6 metres or only half that depth was courtyard of a Newari house is through a single door or a
used . low, narrow gatewav. that can be closed
. ...

I
10
PATAN, KO BAHAL TOL
PLAN SHOWING TYPICAL GROUPING
OF NE.WARI DWELLINGS Mi 't 's 1
10

18
Common lifestyles within each habitation, together As the outer appearance and usage of space ofterpples,
with similar building methods, led to a · unif('rmity in palaces and monasteries has not changed dramatically.from
architectural style, with only superficial variations. at least early Malla times up to the end of the 19th century,
The 6 metre house-depth dictates that a spine wall, it can, therefore, be safely assumed that the dwelling~ have
parallel to the house frontage, divides each floor into two not changed much either.
rooms. This division on the top-floor is replaced by One of the principal reasons for the maintenance of
columns. This principle of a central spine waJI applies traditional ideas has been the early pattern books dealing
to all houses, regardless of their size. with architecture, outlining not only the rituals to be carried
The basic uniformity of design does not allow for out before and during the construction but also the basic
easy assumptions to be made about the possible functions · plan of buildinn.
of houses or activities of their inhabitants. Even city and The quality of houses and their ranking for taxati"n
rural village houses are remarkably similar- three-storeyed purposes was determined already by the great reformist
with a pitched roof and of common materials such as burns Jayasthiti Malla (1380-1395 A.D.) who established guide-
brick and timber. A distinct rural building style, it appeat,t, lines that are used up to the present day:
has not developed on its own. The occasional goat or "Kasiils, Padhyas, and Kullus were not allowed to have
water buffalo is sheltered on the ground floor, whereas houses roofed with tiles .... Houses he divided into
grain is kept in the upper storeys and hay, anywhere con- three classes : Galll, situated in a lane, Galli bhitar,
venient. Most obvious is the use of the ground floor as situated in a street; and shahar, in the centre of the
an open shopfront or workshop, marked by a row of twin- city.
'
co.umns. .. To estimate the value of houses it was determined how
As in urban areas, free . stand~ng ' Newan nouses 1n many Kha they covered. For first class houses a kbl
villages were soon grouped into blocks around courtyards was 85 baths (cubits) in circumference; for the second
resulting in a population density similar to that of the citie'I. class of 95 baths; and for the third of 101 hllths.
This virtually complete similarity between architecture of To the four principal castes, viz, Brahman, Kshatrf,
the city and village, gives credence to reports that the Newars Vaisya, and Sudra were given the rules of Bastu-pra-
were inclined more towards trade and commerce and regar- karan and Asta-barga for building houses. The ~remo­
ded agriculture as a necessary but secondary occupation. nics before laying the foundations were to be performed
The size of the house together with the finish of the facade, by Brahmans if the owners of the building were Brah-
distinguish buildings from one another, although the real mans or Kshatris and by Daivagyas, if they were of th~
differences occur in the quality of materials and their Vaisya or Sudra castes". 2
workmanship. Bricks, for example may be sun-dried.rough As long as there was no coniact with Western mttuen-
and simply baked, others may be carefully burnt for speci- ces environment and building style followed the traditional
fic purposes, others again have especially smooth surfaces pattern. The dramatic change· to the enormous white
and are polished before firing. Other distinguishing features plastered palaces based on the neo-classical style from the
may be the ornately carved doors and windows, of which West built by the rulers of 100 years ago, brought the first
the crowning achievement is the large living room window major change in dwelling design for at least the richer section
or San Jhya facing the street from the second or third of the populact. With the massive influx of Western ideas
ftoor. at the beginning of the second half of the 20th century, a
Histon total change in the design of dwellings took place. Those
In contrast with the well documented descriptions of within settlements were able to make minor alterations only
religious buildings, the historical information concerning because of the limited space within a block of houses, but
private dwellings is almost non-existent. Father Giuseppe new houses outside the dense settlements were able to use
who visited Nepal 200 years ago has writtei:t probably the new materials, Western designs and construction ideas. The
best known and earliest description of dwellings: break with tradition was so abrupt and harsh that over the
"The houses are constructed of brick, and are three last few years a positive trend has emerged to find a "modern
or four storeys high; their apartments are not lofty ; Nepali style" and at least building materials, such as brick,
they have doors and windows of wood, well worked ano tile, stone and wood are again being used in many places
arranged with great regularity" .1 as originally intended.

19
Facade
Symmetry is the aim in the design of the facade. It $mall windows on either side. Any irregula rities in the
is attained, where possible, on a central axis of a main ground fl oor facade due to a door or row of columns a re
window or door by pairing windows around the central not repeated in the upper storeys which are arranged, in-
axis on each succeeding floor with t he central window of dependently, in a symmetric fashion.
each floor emphasized by its size and detailed carving. The entr~nce door is barred with two massive wooden
Where the grnund floor is not used as a shopfront or a planks while the windows are generally closed by fine woo-
workshop, this section of the facade remains quite simply den lattice work. Only a few of these windows can be
executed with a low narrow door and perhaps one or two completely closed with heavy shutters.

PATAN - SAUGAL TOL

PATAN - SAUGAL TOL

PATAN- LUKHACHHEN TOL

M,.....__..,...~5------~lo
1l SKETCH OF TYPICAL TERRACED DWELLINGS

20
The most important communication to. the street, by garrets or the like. Balconies and roof· terraces on houses
other than the door, is through the San Jhya window in are of a more recent origin.
th~ main living room.
Formerly the typical window style was ho: izontal
but with a square latticed opening.~. About two hundred
The San Jhya has a window bench and its latticed
years ago the window design started to change and to become
window shutters can be opened and closed. Even in the
more vertical in form but retaining the lattice work. During
most simple poorer houses the living room windows are
this process, the symmetry created by the prominence of the
accentuated.
central window was reduced to simple rows of windows.
In thrte storeyed houses, the third floor is generally
Only the San Jhya, now less ornate, retained its original
an attic directly under the roof which is mainly used as the
location on the facade. Before the turn of the century the
kitchen and eating room.
trend towards lighter and larger windows was introduced.
In four storeyed houses, the second and third floors
The latticing of windows which were now almost one storey
are living areas, with cooking and dining in the attic above.
high and about 60 cm wide, wa~ omitted. At the same
On the exterior the second and third storeys are separated
time the San Jhya was replaced by the now current window
by a skirt-roof, under which the large San Jb¥a is located.
style, where metal railings and shutters close off the vertical
The San Jhya thus has a fixed position in the centre of the
window opeQings.
second storey on the facade. For continuity, the eaves of
the skirt-roof of a four-storeyed houses continue through at Thus the facade took on a vertical appearance of wall
the same level as the roof of an adjacent three-storeyed sections which were divided by almost storey high windows.
house . . The uneven number of windows per storey was retained
The .
. . lines of a simple pitched roof are seldom broken whenever the length of the house permitt\ it.

I 11
II

Jl[J[
JIIJI JIIJI
M 5
12 SKETCH SHOWING TYPICAL DEVELOPMENT Of FENESTRATION

21
13
=-------SKETCH S~OWING STAN DARD ACCOMMODAT ION
Functions and Allocation of Space
· A deciding facto~fof t~ utilisation of different rooms provide direct access between the courtyard and the street.
in the house is its verrlca~ Iodation. The size of the house A separate corridor leads to the courtyard where shops and
is virtually irrelevant, as is the size of the family or the caste workshops occupy the ground floor. A narrow staircase
consideration. Despite variations in size and external gives access to the upper storeys. A trap door, in the form
decorations, common principles of space utilisation deve- of two heavy planks, closes off the stairwell, normally at
loped between all social groups. each floor level and this was probably the result of earlier
defence requirements.
A central wall (Du Anga) normally divides the ground Originally the ground floor was never used as a living
floor, Chhyadi, into two narrow rooms, of which the front area, as among other reasons, it offered no protection against
room usually serves as a shop or workshop. A twin row dampness. The floor is either tiled with bricks or covered
of columns frequently replaces the entire front wall , opening with a layer of clay. Only shops have a well ventilated
the ground floor to the street. The back rooms are storage wooden floor. The actual living space and sleeping areas
rooms, or workshops, opening onto the courtyard. The of the family begins with the first floor(Matan = middle
centre wall, for structural reasons, is seldom replaced by section). Depending on the size of the house, the two rooms
columns. created by the central wall are further divided by either
Where the ground floor is used as a stable or store- solid or light timber partitions to form sleeping quarters
room, only small windows admit light and air and the same for family members, or for married sons, who remain in the
general access is used. Doors in each of the external walls parental home with their own family.

22
Of the common three-storeyed house, the second floor different -shapes and sizes, stand i~ wall recesses (Gwakhan-
(Chota = upper layer) is the main living and family area. pwas) to give light during the dark hours.'
A row of twin columns takes the place of the central wall, Stocks of rice and other grain are stored iQ. wooden
·so that t~e room · becomes a rather low hall. Windows at chests or clay pots, while potatoes and vegetables are kept
the front and rear walls, particularly the large San Jhya, in bamboo baskets hanging below the overhanging roof.
provide enough light and air for the summer days. The Clay and brass pitchers are used as water utensils. Wood,
relatively good lighting also · makes this floor the favourite carried into the town from the hills by porters, is the usual
spot for different types of work. Weaving· looms, one of heating fuel although the poorer people burn dried cow
the most common of household implements in Newari dung.
homes, are set up near this large window. Many villagers
also use this floor for cooking over open fire-places alongside Foreign influences, however, have recently introduced
a side wall, with no cbi·mney to channel the smoke awa)C •.. Western-stlyle furnishings. Electricity and kerosene have .
simplified the tasks of cooking and lighting.
The third storey (Phyata = fourth layer), as the Newai-i
na~e implies, is an unusual addition to the basic Newari Water for drinking and washing is collected from
house, which normally comprises the gFOund floor, first private or public wells, or from foun tains situated in each
floor (middle layer) and second floor (upper layer). The sector of the town.
fourth floor, like the upper floor, can be used as a large The "bathroom" is either the courtyard, the roof
family living room or it may be subdivided into other rooms. terrace, the street or the place around the wells and fountains. ·

Both the kitchen and the fami ly shrine are located in The latrine, formerly considered an unclean place,
the attic space (Baiga .= half or small space). Because of is not located in the house . .Instead, small children use the
their religious significance, strangers and members of lower street or . any open ~lace, while men and wO'men ·seek out
castes should never enter the kitchens or the precincts of a segregated public latrines, which are narrow alleys hidden
higher caste shrine. Room divisions seldom occur except away behind walls. They are found in every town district
for a rudimentary separation of the shrine. Specially or on the fringes of the bigger settlements. The banks of
designed tiles anl;\ occasionally a dormer window giv~ rivers and streams are also favourite ablution areas for men
lighting and ventilation. and children. In the cities, particularly in Kathmandu,
As a rule cooking and eating remain commun?i private latrines on the ground fl oor of buildings are becoming
affairs involving the whole family and any extensions carried popular now, because of the improved water supply.
out would only be for living and sleeping rooms.

The interior furni shings and decorations are very Outside infiuen~es inevitably change the lifestyle of
simple in contr.ast to the often extravagant facades. After the people. These and the availability of modern building
the clay and tile oven, the most important is the all-purpose materials alter the previous ideals of house design .and are
st raw-mat (Sukul) which serves as a carpet during the day reflected in a preference for rectilineal structures unadorned
and for sleeping on during night. Other carpets .and blan- by the traditional woodcarvings and special bricks, which
kets may decorate the floor, but these are reserved only for together with the use of bright colours instead of the natural
seating on special occasions. In the morning the bedding, brick and wood, change the appearance and function of the
of blankets and cotton rugs, ·is rolled up and stored away. house. As a result the traditional architecture, not only
Clothing and valuables are kept in wall recesses and wooden ronfine<l to residential buildings, but also to temples,
chests_. A stove as a heating apparatus is unknown, and in palnces and monasteries, is losi-ng its special character.
its place portable clay bowls (Makas) of various size are Unhappily under these modern pressures the typical Newari
filled with burning charcoal. The kitchen is seldom used as dwelling is now rapidly becoming a building style of the
a meeting place. Clay or metal oil lamps. available .iti many past, especially in the Westernised city areas.

23
CHAPTER IV

THE BUDDHIST MONASTERY

25
THE BUDDHIST MONASTERY
Introduction
The Buddhist monastery known as Vihara is usually by studying the well-preserved rock monasteries at Ajanta
a two-storeyed court style building. In contrast to' the and Elora in the west of India.
typical free standing Hindu temples, and due to its integra-
t ion into the surrounding architecture, the Vihara remains 1 / These cave monasteri.es were cut out of the rock face

relatively inconspicious and often unrecognized. This is a few centuries·before Christ and consist ofa square central
surprising, as there are over ·400 Viharas in the Kath- hall surrounded by small rooms or cells. The room opposite
:nandu Valley. the entrance is slightly larger than the others and is the shrine
of the monastery . . This basic idea for the Nepali Yihara
To avoid confusion, the Sanskrit term Vihara will also continued almost unchanged into the late Middle Ages.
be the general term for this particular type of building.
Late r, the various types of Viharas are differentiated by The fi~st references to Nepali Yihara date back to
their Newa ri a nd Nepali descriptions, such as Ba hi and legend.s from the time when Gautam Buddha (563-483
Baha (Newari) or Bahil and Bahal (Nepali). The term Bahira B.C.) is said to have visited the Kathmandu Valley, and
was used during Buddha's time when Pali was the court lived in a Vihara for two to three years. Later reports state
language; it will .not, however, be used in this text. that,besides Emperor Ashoka, Buddhist missionaries(monks)
sent by him also came to the Kathmandu Valley, bringing
with them Charumati, who was later married to the Prince
Dcvapala of Nepal. Devapala is said to have founded the
r township of Deupatan, while Charumati founded the
monastery Cha Bah ii to the north of Deupatan. Licchavi
inscriptions describ~· ·Cha Bahil. as "spacious and enclosed
by walls". Althoug~ it is highly unlikely that the still exis-
ting· Cha Bahil buildings are from the above mentioned
~r!.Q_d, the design would not have been very different.

In the centre of the Cha Bahil complex stands the


two-storeyed Bahil, whose rooms are arranged around
and orientated towards, the courtyard. At a distance o(
about 10 metres from the Bahil several storeyed residential
houses surround it to form a square. A gateway through
the northern row of houses leads out of the complex.

As in the case of the Cha Babil, quite a number of


Viharas have been founded by other rulers. Among the
oldest, dating back to the time of the first centuries after
Christ are :

14 TADHAN BAHAL TOLA M_..,1_o_ _ _ _ _5o.


Vikrama Sita Vihara and Triratna Yihara in Kath-
mandu as well as Vishnukhsha Yihara, Chakra Yihara,
Hema-barna Yihara a nd Buya-bahal in Patan. l
History
The precise origin of the Yiha ra building style is still As already stated in the introduction, Buddhism and
obscure and the reasons why it has remained structurally Hinduism where of equal importance ; this position was
unaltered for centuries have not been discovered. What maintained throughout the Licchavi time, attracting the
is certain is that the basic plan for the layout of the Yiha ra support of those rulers involved in the erection of Vihara
is more tha_!! 2000 yea rs old. and th is can be proved buildings, and the ~opation of land for their su..eort.

26
Inscriptions on stone, metal and paper·, ·dating from each in separate bihars, which were built by their Guru and
the IOth century and becoming more frequent durin$ the named Dunta Bihar and Lalibana Bihar ... Sunayasri's
following centuries, also describe Viharas. Among the bihar is now called Yampi Bihar, and those of his disciples
earliest references to surviving Viharas is an index compiled arc called Kontibahl Bihar and Pinta Bihar. 3
by a Tibetan monk, living in Nepal between 1226 and
1234 A . D. : R~gmi 's comments of this period are:
Vihara of Svayambhu "Dharmasvamin's account testifies to the growing
Than Vihara (upper or first Vihara, situated in popularity of Vajrayana beliefs and esoi'eric practices,
Thamel to the north of the old part ?f present- but it seems that pure Mahayana witho!.lt esoteric features
day Kathmandu) had not wholly lest ground ... It a lso appears that there
Vihara of Bu-Kham (supposedly in present day were still extant a few monasteries in Nepal where monks
Bungamati). 2 received shelter and food. But most of the old Viharas
had been deserted ... 4
The life of Mahayana Buddhism in the Valley was
reactivated for a while by monks coming from India in
the wake of the Muslim invasion in the 13th century A.O.
But soon afterwards the influence of the Vajrayana Buddhism
gained almost complete cont~ol and changed considerably
the ~'-ddhist way of life.
, -1The Vihara type Bahil was built outside settlements
and founded by a single patron, such as a king or a cele-
brated monk like Nirbanika Vanaprastha Bhikshu, who
lived in celibacy. It was designed as a place for. training,
teaching, preachi g epics and to give shelter and food for
visiting monk~/
· 4 As soon as the ·monks married, which was permitted
in Vajrayana. beliefs, they had to leave the Bahil and either
found, orjoin, another type of Vihara known as the Bahal.
Here the monks lived wi_th their families as Grihustha
Bhikshus. The system of founding a Sanga, which was a
group of unrelated monks and their families, later changed,
and it became necessary for all members of a Sanga to be of
the same famil~ . -· · ·
With the growing popularity of Vajrayana beliefs,
more and more Baba!s had to be built. Around the

15 THAN BAHIL A MP'"i-•1'!"10_ _ _ _ _"'!15. original 18 main Bahals in Kathmandu, for example, about
90 Kacha or branch Bahals were founded, each of the
main Bahals giving its name to the surrounding locality
Concerning the foundations of several Viharas from or Toi.
the same period it is recorded that : The main groups, which are still active Grihastha Bhik-
" In the reign of Rudradeva-barQla ... a certain shus, are the Vajracharyas (mainly in Kathmandu) and the
Sunayasri Misra Brahmana, from Kapilabastuka, arrived Shakyas (mainly in Patan).
here, and . . . b:ing in search of a spiritual i1Jide ... went With the decline of Buddhist beliefs and growing
to Lhasa ... He then returned to Nepal, with the intention influence of Hinduism from the end of the 18th century,
·of fixing on a place of residence, and building a bihar ... and no new Viharas have been built of a similar description.
having bought the ground, he built a bihar and fixed his Many of the buildings within the Viharas started to
abode there ... His disciples. Govardhana Misra and Kis- change their appearance and many of them were completely
yapa Misra, came from Kap1labastuka to Nepal. .. and remodelled, leaving only a few today in their original
having found him. they became converted and lived here form. ~

'1.7
Examples
Bahii
The Bahil, which is built on a raised platform above exception of the rear (south) wall, which has only four
street level, is a two-storeyed structure surrounding a sun- windows, the middle window behind the "dark room"
ken square courtyard, normally paved with square tiles. being omitted. These windows, however, add little to the
lighting of the hall, and appear to have been installed for
Ground floor
aesthetic reasons only. The largest opening in the external
Excepl for the doorway in the front facade, the wall of the upper floor is a door on the axis of the front
ground floor is totally sealed off from the outside, and in this'
facade, which leads to a wide balcony. Balconies of this
case the open porticos face inwards overlooking the court-
sort are not found in other building types.
yard only. Partitions, mostly in timber, adjacent to the door-
way, suggest the possibility of a foyer. i'n front of these Roof
walls is the Phalacha. As in the Bahal the entrance is guarded The roof construction comprises of a wide overhanging
by two idols, the one to the left of the door usually represen- roof and the roof space is usually unused. A temple-like
ting Mahankal, and the one to the right representing Ganesh. lantern or Gajur surmounts the Babil shrine.
The ma in shrine is generally opposite the entrance and usual-
Facades
ly contains the image of Buddha Shakyamuni.
The facades, although symmetrical, are kept relatively
Two non-load bearing walls form a clearly defined plain . There are two blind windows flanking the entrance
passage a round the shrine to accommodate an important which are merely decorative. The walls consist of unpre-
ritual in the worshipping of gods. The shrine itself is a tentious brickwork and there are normally no specially
small .windowless, quadrangular room with a door facing designed bricks used. The practice of breaking up long
north. Besides the foyer and the shrine, there are no other walls with projecting sections, often found in other buildings,
spatial divisions o n the ground floor . In a corner to the never happens in the Bahils.
left of \he entrance there is a wide, stone staircase, an
unusual feature in a Newa ri building. Example:
PINTU BAHIL
Upper floor (Sanskrit name : Shri Gopichandra Mahavihara)
By ~cans of a projecting balcony, which extends Location : Ikhachhen Toi (Huko Hiti),Patan
along all four sides of the courtyard, .the hall on the upper Founded : According to legend in the 12th century A.O.
floor is enlarged. This open plan hall is not subdivided by by Sunayashri Mishra. The existing building
walls except in the south wing, where a "dark room" is may well date prior to the 16th century A.O.
built over the shrine on the ground floor. The external Many additions and repairs were carried out
walls a re oierced by either three or five windows, with the
during the 17th century A.O.

28
· n][n
FRONT SECTION
ELEVATION

.. . . ..
.
• • •
. .
II . .. ....
- .
~
. . • . L;:. . . jl . . .
-- -~ -~
. . .
---

• • .. I • .•
..
• • . . .
.. • •

. .
• • .. . .
.. •

.

. •
.. "' • • • . . . • . . . . .
• • • - • • • • • . . . .
11111 I
I
• • II

GROUND UPPER
FLOOR

16 PINTU BAIUL M
-- FLOOR

29
Bahal Facades
\
The Baha l is a two- storeyed court style building. Perfect symmetry has been achieved by generally
Its floors are divided into different rooms overlooking the ' projecting the C.!ntral a nd corne r sections of all facades a nd
courtyard. As most of the Bahals and Bahils have been by the placem!nt of door.; and 1wi ldows. T he se:>tion'i
altered considerably the Chhusya Bahal was found to be created by these projections d iviae ~h.! exterior walls into
the best preserved building of this Bah al type and is descri- five bays and th! interior courtyard wall~ into three bays.
bed here in detail : The external Wlllh of the g round fl oor have no winc!owi;
· except for two blind ornam!ntal window.; fl a nking the
· entrance door . Each section of the exterior and interior
Chhusya Babat walls of the upper storey, however has a centrally placed
Ground floor window. except for the back wall of the dark room, where
The building rests on a low plinth-like base. The court- the window is omitted. Each window is designed accordi ng
yard, like that of the Bahil, is sunken except for a narrow to its locatio n . T he bay-window and those in the centre
walkway around it. The rooms a round the courtyard can of each facade. have a special form typical of Bahals. The
be divided into the following groupings: bricks used fo r the walls are frequently of better quality and
a) O a lans_:_ the halls opening into the courtyard, one o f some are specially shaped. The exterior walls remain unren-
which is the entrance hall with its two benches (Phala- dered. whereas the interior are generally rendered with mud
chas) and the gods Mahankal and Ganesh recessed in plaster and a re wh ite-washed . The entrance a nd shrine
the walls. Two other Oalans are situated in t he side doors are decorated with a T ympanon or Torana which
wings. distinguisl!,e~ ~!~e!!l _ f~9m ..o th!!rS.
b) The window less shrine is located opposite the entra nce.
. . -· .. .,; . .
History of C'fihusya Bahal
. . . : ~~'
c) Other window less rooms are each accessible by o ne door The construction of the Chhusya Ba ha l, located in
only. Four of these rooms have staircases which lead to the J yatha Toi of Kathmandu, was completed o n 14th
tht: upper storey. March 1649 A.O. (NS 769) and on the same day the
stone statue of Hariha ra Lokeshvara was installed in the
Upper floor
shrine. The donors were Shri Gunajyoti Yajracharaya
Each of the four narrow staircases situated in the four
with his fi rst wife Yadumani Lakshmi a nd also h is second
corners of the courtyard leads to a group of three rooms
wife Helmani Lakshmi.
above. Each of these four groups is a separate unit with no
The Chhusya Ba ha l (sun-dried grain Ba hal) with its
intercommunicating doors o r passages. A bay-window
Sanskrit name Gunakara Mahavihara, together with the
over the entrance hall projects over the courtyard emphasis-
Musya Bahal and K hwa Bahal, are part of one Sanga.
ing the room behind.
It was only in the year 1667 A . 0. that Pratapa Malla
Roof was invited by Gunajyoti Yajracharya to ina ugurate the
This space is left unused. Above t he shrine, however, Bahal. The T orana over the main entrance door, leading
on the ridge of the roof, is a bdl-:;haped pinnacle known as into the courtyard of the building. is d ated 1~73 A. O.
the Gajur. (NS 793).

30
"' M

(")

:l:

er.
0
0
...l
IJ..
0
;z
:::>
0
et::
0
~
<
=
<
=
~
VY
~

5
u


,.....
.-4
17b CHHUSYA BAHAL UPPER FLOOR M ~i------~·2~-r,:
13~-r.'
14---.15
17c CHHUSYA BAHAL S~CTION

M ,_.~--~--~-...i--•
17d CHHUSYA BAHAL FRONT ELEVATION 1. 2 3 t. 5

33
BAHAL-BAHlL First floor
The infrequent combination of a Bahal and a Bahil The first floor rooms a re divided into four groups.
into one single Viha ra type I shal.1 call here Bahal-Bahil., With the exception of the dark room above the shrine, all
In inscriptions and reports they ~re referred to as Rahal rooms of the main facade have a window overlooking the
or Vihara but form their own gr_{jup of Buddhist monas- street. The bay-~indow above the courtyard entrance in
teries. " this instance has been omitted.

The Bahal-Bahil is a three storeyed structure built Second ·floor ·~·


a ro und a quadrangular courtya rd of similar dimensions to The entire second floor consists of a colonnaded hall.
those of the B~hal and Bahil. The ground a nd first storeys Four columns, above the dark room o ver the main shrine,
are similar to those of a Bahal, whereas the second storey support the Gajur on the roof. The secondary shrine, how-
resembles the upper storey of a Bahil. This combination ever, does not have a dark room over it. The open plan
of two building co ncepts has been achieved without the need hall is extended over the courtyard to form a narrow balcony.
for sacrificing any essential part of either style. The roof space is again unused.

Example : Facades
The Nauddha Kacha Baha l (Kacha = branch) stands As in the Bahal, the front facade l s divided into five
o n a high plinth . and like other Bahals has a paved sunken sections. The middle section has no window or door as
courtyard· with a walkway around it. The building is the shrine is behind it. Each of the four flanking sections
enclosed on three sides. The fourth wing facing the street has a door, the second door to the right in the road elevation
has a unique facade as the north facing shrine is centrally being the main entrance. Above the doqrs, each upper
located o n this elevation and. therefore, forces the narrow 'storey has a window. The walls facing the courtyard are
entra nce corrido r to be set to one side. divided into three sections which, o n the lower two storeys,
are copies of those of the Bahal.
The second storey balcony is closed by fine lattice-
Ground fl oor
work similar to a window. Only one section in the centre
All the rooms on the ground floor are accessible from
of each balcony can be opened.
the courtyard. As there was only a limited site available
it precluded a. symmetrical roo m arrangement. In this The History of NAuddha Kacha Babal
case, the main shrine is facing eastwards and the second, (Sanskrit name : Shri Derdutta Mahavihara)
lesser shrine, in the front wing, faces the no rth. The Location : Nauddha Toi, Patan
. central rooms of the two re'1'laining wings are Da la ns. As Founded : . 1640 A.O. by Shri Dersinha Shakya, the
in the Bahal, four staircases lead to the first floor, of which son of Shri Abhayaraj Bauddhacharya, the founder of
only one continues to the second storey. Mahabauddha temple in Patan.

34
FRONT
SECTION
ELEVATION

.. . . . .. .. . ....

. . ..
. . ..

::::::::::

GROUND . SECOND

d8
FLOOR

NAUDDHA BAHAL M
- FLOOR

35
Other types of Viharas
Besides these three (Bahal, Bahil, Bahal-Bahi!) com· In the centre of a Temple Bahal stands an important
plexes with distinct common featu res, three further types temple around which residential houses are grouped . to
are to be fou nd, which for the purposes of this book a re form a square (i. e. Seto Macchindranath in Kathmandu).
referred to as the Family Bahal, the Temple Bahal and the Otherwise the temple is situated in a large open space
Great Bahal. Such distinctions are not made in either enclosed mainly by resthouses and boundary walls (Rato
Nepali (Ba hal) or in Sanskrit (Vihara, Mahavihara). Macchindranath in Patan). Bahals and Bahals with shrines
The Family Bahal is normally a small Chauk, sur- which ha''! been -enlarged to temple like high structures are
rounded by only a few houses. Usually a small shrine is gener,..Jly variations of a traditional building but these do
attached to a house or garden wall. 110' ..,onst itute a seP.arate type.
Wide rectangular squares surrounded by two and A comparative study of the Bahal and the Bahil
three-storeyed residential dwellings form the Great Bahal. Some important structural differences between the
Built into the row of houses is at least one shrine, similar Bahal ( Ba) and the Bahil (Bi) are summarized in the follow-
to those fou nd in the true Bahal. On the square itself, fur· ing list· :
ther shrines and Chaityas are a lso to be found. Typical
Ba : Lions guard the entrance
dimensions of Great Ba hals .
Bi : No guardian lions
Yatka Bahal about 47 m x 47 m
Ba : One low plinth-step surround the building externally
ltum Bahal about 75 m x 22 m Bi : At least one high plinth-step surrounds the building
Te Bahal about 80 m x 50 m externally
Ba : Torana above entrance door
Bi : No Torana
Ba : A clearly defined entrance a rea (foyer) with Phala-
chas
Bi : Partition walls forming the entrance area; possibly a
later addition
Ba : The central room of the front wing has a bay-window
facing the chauk
Bi : The central room of the front wing has a wide door-
way with balcony facing the road
Ba : Four narrow staircases leading to four separate groups
of rooms
Bi : One broad sto ne staircase leading to the hall of the
upper floor
Ba : Small groups of rooms organized into isolated groups
Bi : An open col.:>nnade construction in both storeys
Ba : The shrine is part of the building structure
Bi : The shrine is an isolated room within the portico
struct ure
Ba : Religious services are held only in the small sh rine
' Bi : Religious services are held within the shrine as well
as processing around the shrine, in the case ofa mas~
Puja
Ba : A bell-shaped pinnacle or Gajur on the roof directly
above the shrine
Bi : A temple-like lantern above the sh rine

The ratio of Bahals to Bahils is roughly 10 :


-r ----5\ Patan
Kathmandu
140 Bahals and 15 Bahils
81 Bahals and 12 Bahils
19 A M,...._.__
TE BAHAL lo
.,_.-9"--'i"'"""~

So. Bhadgaun 20 Bahals and 2 Bahils

36
Till now, the most accurate list of Viharas is the Further comparisons reveal that :
one prepared by Mr. Hemraj Shakya, "Nepal Bauddha No Bahal is to be found outside the limits of the city
Vihara",and lists for Patan 167 Viharas, for Kathmandu cores. Many Bahils still today lie outside the city and are
120 Viharas aqd for Bhadgaun 24 Viharas. Of this selec- enclosed by surrounding residential houses.
tion several are not located within the cities'limits, which is Where Bahils are found within the city, the Tots around
the reason why the! total number on thP. Shakya list does them bear their names. Bahils such as Cha Bahil and
not correspond with the number given above. Maru Bahil provide clear examples of the separation of
living quarters and assembly areas : surrounding the qua-
Only a very few Bahals still provide shelter for celi-
drangular Bahil at a distance of about IO metres, is a row
bate nuns and monks, whereas the Bahils -house mainly
of residential dwellings. The facades and entrances of
primary schools. B:ut the majority of the Viharas still exis-
the houses face the Bahil, whereas the rear facades of these
ting today have bec~n either extensively modified for residen-
dwellings are mostly blank giving a fortress like appearance
tial purposes, have fallen into disrepair or have become
to the complex.
unrecognisable. New Viharas are built from tim~ to time
nowadays, but are: very different from the old ones and
mainly boast of oinly one shrine.

37
----.=--r---r-::::::._~z:::::::::::;tc _r --- -~~
• d 4?' "':~ .. Jf"
CHAPTER V

THE HINDU PRIEST HOUSE

39
THE HINDU PRIEST HOUSE
Introduction
- the numerous branch Maths, whose exact number is still
The Nepali form of the Hindu priest house or Math,
is clearly distinct from the free standing Buddhist monas- under investigation, but which is certain to exceed that of
tery which is bound by specific rules such as the form of a the main Maths.
square and mainly a two s.toreyed courtyard building. The The biggest conc:ntration of Maths is located around
design of a Math, its location, orientation and its internal the Dattatreya temple in the Tachapal Toi of eastern
planning ·c orrespond to that of a s!andard dwelling house. Bhadgaun. From a total of 12 Maths, 1 main Maths and
Larger Maths generally comprise of several smaller 2 branch Maths are found here.
house units (Ghars), centred, where possible around a · Today, how.ever, the Maths have lost their pre-eminent
courtyard. A Math has no fixed orientation and it is position in Nepali society. Except for the Pujahari Math,
normally a three-storeyed building. If space allows, a the majority are in a bad state of repair and are no longer
Math is built with a central load rearing wall and the design occupied by the families of the Mahantas. They have now ·
of the facade resembles that of a residential house. Ct is lost their religious significance which they, along with the
not usual for shrines to be located in any fixed location. Maths, once possessed.
The ground floors are used generally as stables, store~ The head ofa Math was the Mahanta, who, in a mo-
or servants' quarters and ihe unper floors a!. grain !>tores, nastic environment, gathered students, Sadhus and Guru5
guest rooms, meeting halls or bedrooms. The kitchen is around him. The majority of those coming to shelter, or
· lccated either on the top floor or in the attic . The facade 1Study at the Math, came as pilgrims from India. The
reve1ls a symmetrical arrangement of doors and windows
Mahanta was not only highly respected within the Math
with the main doN in the centre of a ground floor and the
itself, but also in the outside community to the extent that
large window of the· living room in the centre of the third
even kings recognised his position and ministers had to bo~,
storey.
before him. Prior to h'is death the Mahanta chose a suc-
No,mally the Math is fully integrated into a terrace
cessor from the best scholars whom he himself had taught.
of houses along a street or overlooking an open space anc!
may only be recognised by its supetior wood carving and History
more ex•ravagant decoration. During the period which saw the decline of Buddhism
Whereas a Vihara normally consists of one courtyard in lndia, due to disharmony and divergence from the orig .
or Chauk, and a palace has several Chauks, of the same inal dogma, Hinduism had its renaissano::e. The Brahmans,
pattern, a Math may consist of several Ghars (houses), who for some time had been relegated to the background
· whose size number and arrangement may vary considera- were able to re-establish and further improve their position
.bly. The Pujahari Math, for example, consists of four of influence over the people,and in particular the rulers,
Ghars, the Bardalighar Math. has two Ghars, and the by the 8th century. It was also about this time that rest
Djalling Math has three Ghars. According to requirements houses for pilgrims were erected at significant sites of well
and wealth, building sites and houses adjacent to an exis- known centres for Hindu religion. These resthouses,
ting Math were zo::iuired for expansion and the residential served also as meeting places for Gurus and Sadhus and
houses were usually demolished and rebuilt as new wings of other learned men and in a short time became important
the Math. Prominent examples of this are the three almost centres for Hindu learning.
interconnected Maths, the Sithu Math, Dathu Math and
The exact date of the construction of the first Maths
Taja Ma~h of Tachapal Toi in Bhadgaun.
in Nepal is unknown, but it can be assumed that the basic
Depending on its wealth and influence a Math could plan of the still exi$ting Maths were not built much before
found branch Maths for whose upkeep it was also respon- the mid-fourteenth century, when Jayasthiti Malla introd-,
sible. Resthouses, as well as temples, were built by the .ced decisive reforms in favour of Hinduism. It appears
Maths · and priests were employed by them to serve in t~e however, that the Maths still existing in the Kathmandu
temples. Recent research has up to now established the Valley today were constructed between the i6th and 18th
·existence of 17 Maths in the three cities of the Valley, and a centuries. The Viharas are, therefore, -considerably older
. -similar number in the surrounding villagc:s. This excludes than the Maths.

40
BHADGAUN M--11-c;-~lo-
. --~2o
20 TACHAPAL TOL.

V-1 Siteplan Tacflapal Toi, Bhadgaun A- Bhimsen Temple


B- Lakshmi Narayan Temple
I - Sithu Math
C- Oattatreya Temple (Sattal)
2 - Dathu Math
3 - Taja Math D- Vanalayku (Forest Palace)
4 - Pujahari Math
S - Chikanphale Math
6 - Godavari Math
1 - Bardali Ghar (Branch of the Pujahari Math)
8 - Purano Chota Math
9 - Jangam Math (Branch of the Jangam Math,
Taumadi Toi. Bhadlaun)

Although there are o nly about 30 Maths m the . .Yiharas in each of the three cities : Bhadgau~ with 22
Valley, compared with more than 300 Viharas, their Viharas, has the fewest while Kathmandu has 120 and Patan
influence grew with the fostering and spreading of Hin- . 167.
duism in all its forms throughout the Valley. During the
Middle Ages. the Maths were ~entres for the teaching Nevertheless despite the strong support Hinduism
and lea rning of Hindu philosophy and for the study of received during the last few centuries, the institution of the
appropriate manuscripts. Math system seems to have slowly lost its importance and
Today, in Bhadgaun alone, twel've main Maths and is only playing a very minor role in the religious life of the
their branch Maths are still in existence, in Patan five populace.
and in Kathmandu only one has so far been identified. As the Pujahari Math is the largest and probably
This suggests that Hinduism was most influential in Bhad- also the most important of all M:-•hs. <1 more detailed
gaun, a fact further borne out bv the number of Buddhist description is given below.

41
M_____._.._,..2_..---;~J--...,.4~--15
21 PUJAHARI M ATH, FRONT ELEVATION

THE PUJAHARI MATH

The close association with the important Dattatreya their incoine as they wished ,either for their personal° use
temple has, from the outset, placed the Pujahari Math in or for religious purposes such as festivities, alms, food
an exceptional position among the Maths. This importance and shelter for pilgrims , or for the construction and
is also reflected upon the Mahanta who holds the title Pit maintenance· of branch Maths and ~her buil<!jngs.
Mahanta (meaning Mahanta endowed with religious since the foundation of the Government controlled
powers of special significance). During the Middle Ages, the Guthi Sansthan around 1967, which assumed control over
Pujahari Math was renowned as a centre of Hindu learning, most of the temple property including Math property, the
including the study of Indian and Tibetan herbs and medi- income of those who managed individual properties was
ci.1es. As a result of its importance and the attention it also reorganised. Land was redistributed to the farmers who
attracted, the Math became relatively wealthy. Besides the tilled it and they were now only required to pay a small
income from its large tenure of land it could rely, among percentage of their yield as rent to the Guthi Sanstban
other donations, upon an annual donation from Tibet in return for their tenures. Apparently this lowered the
consisting of one Tola {12 gms) of gold, one Tola of silver, income of the landowners to such an extent, that they
one horse, one carpet, 365 Okhar (special kind of dried were no longer able to maintain their buildings. However,
fruit) and 216 rupec!s. Except for an annual nominal tax of before this decisive development the Pujahari Math spent
one hundred and fifty rupees, the Mahantas were formerly much of its income on the building and care of eight branch
allowed to manage their property freely, and could spend Maths, at least four resthouses (Dharmashalas) and twenty-

42
22 PUJAHARl MATH LONGITUDINAL SECTION

nine small shrines distributed throughout the Valley. ·There loss of prope~ty. has meant that the former glory of the
follows a list of its branch Maths with the number of Ghars Pujahari Math and its Mahanta has been eclipsed. The
of which they consist: building was nearing complete collapse and only a last
Houses Name of Math Location minute effort in 1973 saved it from des~ruction. The
---- -·- - - - Mahanta had moved to a modern building in Kathmandu
4 Pujahari Math Bhadgaun and practically relinquished his duties as Mahanta of the
2 Bardali Math Bhadgaun Math, though he still retains the title and privilege~ connec-
2 Lokeshvar Mahadev Math Bhadgaun
ted with it. .
(Sali Ganesh Math)
Lokeshvar Mahadev Math Jitpur .
Lokeshvar Mahadev Math Takai Only during the Shivaratri festival, in spring. when
(Takai Math) chousands of Indian pilgrims visit firstly Pashupatinath
2 Lompatha Math Bansbari and afterwards the Dattatreya temple. has the Math
2 Suphaleshvar Math Jaling functioned to some extent in recent ~imes by providing
l Di Math Jaling
shelter for a number of male pilgrims. (Female pilgrims
2 Buvaneshvar Math Panauti
are not permitted to stay overnight). Sadly. both this and
Since the beginning o l the 20th century. the resident other remaining functions arc~ also disappearing. How-
Mahantas have been allo wed to marry, which brought ever, regular worship at the different shrines within the Math
about a rapid change 10 their way of life. In the is still performed by two Pujaris. who are selected frorr: a
case of the Mahantas of the Pujahari Math. this has caused group of Brahmans or Sannyasis (ascetics). but they receive
a change to a rather secular lifestyle, and, together with the no special training.

43
History of the Pujahari Math Structural Description
Early history of the Pujahari Math is recounted in a As previously mentioned, a Ma~h usually consists of
legend, while later reports concern themselves with descrip- a combination of several Ghars. The Pujahari Math
tions of renovations and extensions to the building only. comprises of four such Ghars grouped around three court-
One insc ription on a Shilapatra (stone-tablet) relates the yards.
legendary founda tion of the Math : The small courtyard A at the north-eastern corner
" The monastery was founded by G osain Guru Baksha 'lf the building is the oldest and, due to many repairs and
G iri, a mendicant monk from Mahuraghar in India, alt"rations, is the most changed. During the last repairs
who returned fro m a pilgrimage to Tibet with a treas.ury 11-te staircase to the upper floors was removed and the stone
of money a nd gold which he devoted to the construction well shut off. Aes~hetically speaking, this courtyard is of
of numerous temples a nd monasteries. He later died little artistic value.
while resting under a tree which was on a small island in Courtyard B, the centre of the Math. was probably
t~e centre of a pond. On this spot his pupils built a built at the beginning of the 18th century and is the most
shrine which was later enlarged by King Yakshapraka- functional of the courtyards. It is also the most striking
sha Malla (1428-1482 A.D.) of Bhadgaun. At the artisticaliy, as here are displayed some of the finest examples
same time the Math was built, which was consecrated of woodcarvings in the windows and the posts to be found
and opened for public Puja on the twelfth day of · anywhere in the Valley.
the bright half of the month Falgun in the year NS 600 Courtyard C is the largest, and most likely the domes-
(A.D. 1480)". I tic courtyard. Its buildings are clearly of most recent
During the reign of Raja Vishva Malla (1547-1560 A.O.) origin and are quite plain. Until the most recent renoy a-
intensive renovations were carried out to restore the building tions in 1973, an open portic.o was used as a stable to house
to its original for·m. However, another inscription some- cows since it is believed, for religious reasons, that at
what confuses this information as it records that: least o~e cow should be kept in the Math. A less obvious,
"Raja Biswa Malla .. . built a three-storeyed temple of but equally important feature of this courtyard is a corri-
D atta treya in Tachapal; and having assigned lan~s dor leading in an easterly direction to a narrow lane, through
for supporting the daily worship of the deity, he made which the bodies of those who have died while staying in
it over to Sannyasis, for whose residence he built a the Math .are carried to the Ghat for cremation.
matha". 2 The water supply for the Puja comes from the well
There is convincing evidence that suggests thi.s Math in the courtyard A , whereas water for drinking and washing
to be in fact the Pujahari Math, which was enlarged or is obtained from a well in courtyard C. There is no specific
remodelled along with the already existing Dattatreya ! latrine.
temple. Utilisation of space on the different floors is essentially
During the time of the Mahanta Kripala Giri and similar to that of ordinary dwellings , with the ground flvor
Loknatha Giri further repairs and extensions were under- housing stables, stores, servants quarters and guard rooms
taken. Under Kailasha Giri the Math was only partially .as well as two Shiva shrines and rooms for performing
rebuilt when it was severely damaged by the earttiquake Puja. The first and second floors contain living rooms,
of 1934. Then in 1973, with the assistance of German Aid guest rooms and bedrooms and some storage space, whereas
the building was renovated with the deliberate aim of res- the third floor has a private shrine and kitchen.
toring it to its original condition, while at the same time All exterior walls (those facing the. street and court-
instituting alterations necessary for future use of the buil- yards) are constructed of Chikan,'.6,.ippa, a very smooth,
ding. This is a reflection of the continuous changes which highly polished and sharp edged brick used on more
the Pujahari Math and the nearby Dattatreya temple have elaborate t?uildings. Interior walls are of simple, basic
undergone. brickwork.
The ornately carved central doo r of the western part
Although, in its present use as office of the Bhaktapur of the northern wing provides access through an obliquely
Development Programme, other than for the principal angled narrow corridor to courtyard B, from which all
room and the shrines, there is now no distinction made other parts of the building can be reached . Doorways
between the former room uses. But the building is now lead to courtyard A and C, and a cramped staircase leads.
>
nevertheless serving a useful purpose. to the upper floors . The Dalans (open porticos), used as

44
-

,
I t
t
.__J' I ~ - 911
I
1I I I I
~ -
I
I
I
J
.. '
I
- -
,..
,.., .I ...
. ----
.,
I
• ~
'"' -~--

.---··
-----
i ..- ....
•• -
\

CHAUK
c
..••
I
•• r
..• • .
••
1•
-

~
I

'
PUJAHARI MATH, GROUND FLOOR PUJAHARI MA TH Fl_R ST FLOOR

corridors, rest areas, meeting places, stables, guardhouses The most important and most beautiful room in the
and for threshing grain, have been paved with smooth square Pujahari Math is located on the fi rst floor of the north:rn
tiles. The shrines, on the other hand, are paved with wing. It serves as the reception and living room of the
stone slabs, while all other rooms have earthen fl oors. Pir M:ahanta., The walls and ceiling are panelled and the
To enable gods and spirits to enter the Math 7 even when ~ floor is boarded. The ceiling and walls were a pparently
the doors are bolted, two narrow slits (Balupwas or Nasa- once brightly painted, as traces of colour are still to be s:en.
pwas) are provided at either side of the entrance door. In With the exception ot the prmc1pa1 room, enc walls
the case of the Pujahari Math, the Palupwas are decorated of the remaining rooms are plastered with a mixture of mud,
on the outside with wood carvings. The remaining ground cow dung and straw, which is then white wasl\ed. The
floor doors mainly serve a decorative rather than a practical wooden elements such as windows. doors, beams, lintels
function and are seldom used. and posts are left unpainted .
- -
- I I
-
I I I
!

I
!

I I
• I I
..
D
I I
-
..
I .. - ...


I • I
I
.J..


I=
E


Ill

i.

I
- ~
I
--
--
--
'

---
---
I

...
·l1 ~
I

23c PUJAHARI MATH


'
SECOND FLOOR 23d PUJAHARI MATH THIRD · FLOOR

The central walls of the ground and first floors of the


main building are replaced on the second floor by a double
row of pillars which creates a broad, but low hall. The greater part of the third storey, which was used
The main room of the second floor was also used as for cooking and related activities, collapsed during the
t he assembly place of the twelve Mahantas of Bhadga1!!!_ earthquake of 1934 after which only a few rooms were
and still displays white cushions on a bench by the large rebuilt. During the 1971 /72 renovation all rooms were
window, to represent t.he throne of the Pir Mahanta Guru remodelled to their original style similar to that of the rooms
Baksha Giri . of the second storey.

46
~ TT I

11111
~mJ
1• I~
I

=~ 1i~
ml . -
' ~

' -
. - =--
~
::j
- .. --
.--
--
--
·--
,___,
'
• • • . • • ~ :~!;; lllllllll11.
"[Is
-
---

"
..........
I
- - 11111 ).<
--
.__

•.

-
--
,_
-
I-

,_-
::::
I
2:::
§
-' ~

-
in~=
f,==..
""t:

t
t-
f;;_
--
c_

23e PUJAHARI MATH FOURTH FLOOR

A smail temole-like structure towards the rear of the


building and at roof level was the place of worship for the
Mahan ta.
Shrines and the dark rooms above them were an im-
portant consideration in space allocation as nobody was
permitted to step on or walk above any god. Therefore,
the rooms of the Math, like those in other temples, which
are located above shrines, have been kept locked. Through
lack of supervision and relaxation of t~aditions, this ~ule is
no longer rigidly enforced as the dark rooms above the
Shiva shrines in the Math are now acicessible. Si'milarly,
the rooms above the Ghatastapana room and shrine hou-
sing the Goddess Kali are no longer sacred and are used
for several different purposes.

4]
•••

CHAPTER VI

THE ROYAL PALACE

49
THE ROYAL PALACE
Introduction
Layku ic; the old Newari term for the word "Palace" dating back to the 5th l6th century e.g., 'Amsubarma ...
and refers only to pa.lace buildings. Large squares and had built a Durbar with many beautifuJ courtyards." I
temple groups surrounding the palaces are named after This does not concur with a report by a Chinese traveller in
the various Tots in which they are situated, the bazaar the 7th century, which tells of the presence of a "haJI" 2
streets which they a~join, or take ttieir name from important In none of the palaces in the Valley, which have remained
buildings or sections of buildings. For instance, in Kath- basically unchanged in form and appearance from at least
mandu the name Hanuman Dhoka refers not only to the the Middle Ages, is there a mention of a " hall".
Hanuman gate of the palace, but to the palace (Nep.: Dar-
However, one building in Kathmandu, the Kashtha-
bar) itself and also to the square formed by two wings of
mandapa, could be compared with the "large, multi-storey
the palace, in the north-west section of the Darbar Square.
palaces'' of the Chinese traveller's reports. The establish-
(Today the name Darbar SquQre is usually given to the com-
ment of this Sattal, or resthouse, which stands near the
plex of palace buildings, together with palace gardens.
palace in Kathmandu, but is definitely not a part of it, goes
forecourts and temple groups.)
back to at least the 12th century and its basic design can
The Darbar Square in each of the three large cities only be of that date ; its ground floor comprises the largest
of the Valley differs greatly in appearaace, according to ancient Nepali hall of th!s particular architectural style.
its position in the city and the grouping and style of the As a Sattal it has been described ~nd sketcbed in lirdetail.
buildings in it. Furthermore, at the turn of the century, as
The most impressive of the Darbar Squares is that of
well as after the earthquake of 1934, extensive alterations
Pa tan. In front of the series of decorated palace buildings,
were carried out, particularly to the palace of Kathmandu.
with the raised Digutale temple, a number of temples of
It is difficult to undertake a detailed examination to estab-
varying importance are to be found. Differences in their
lish the original appearance and use of all of the three
distances from the palace, in their styles, and in their sizes,
palaces because those of Patao and Bhadgaun have not been
produce a restlessness in the relationship of these buildings,
the residences of a monarch for more than 200 years.
giving a pleasant liveliness to the overall concept of the
When Kathmandu was established as the capital of Nepal
square, although the construction materials of bricks and
by Prithvinarayan Shah in 1770, the palaces of Patan and
timber are identical. Fort unately the earthquake of 1934
Bhadgaun lost their function, even though they continued
had little effect on this square, whereas the Darbar Square
to house various administrative departments for some
of Bhadgaun was badly damaged and lost much of its
time after. Today,sections of these palaces, including that of
original character, despite the survival of many important
Kathmandu, serve as schools, museums, police stations and
temples.
offices, but many parts remain unused.
Only the palace of Kathmandu comes to life on certai11
In Kathmandu the temples. surrounding and adjacent
ceremonial occasions, particularly those relating to the
to the palace, compete in number and grandeur with the
Royal Family, when weddings, coronations, deaths and such
palace temples. Some 25 free-standing temples, varying
like require a traditional ceremony. About 50 years ago
greatly in size, are in contrast to the four palace towers
the Royal Family left the palace, located in the centre of
and the five palace temples which are easily recognizable
the city, and moved into the enormous palace of Narayan
by their height.
Hiti built in the neo-classical style at the northern edge
In contrast to what is seen in Europe, the palaces are
of the city, and has lived in a modern building nearby
not oversized, and have no special orientation or position in
since 1969, which replaces the neo-classical building.
the city. In dimensions and execution a traditional palace
In their present form the palaces still clearly show has the appearance of a large free-standing house with a
their original basic plan. as groups or terraces of various large garden at the rear and is closely related to a typical
courtyard buildings were intermingled with, or supplemen- domestic structure. A broad approach or setting, such as
ted by, multi-tiered temples. The composition of these a front garden, does not exist. In Kathmandu the main
courtyard buildings has been described already in legends entrance to the Hanuman Dhoka Palace is situated in an

50
I I I I
PALACE OF PATAN FRONT EbEVATION Mi 'I I I i I I I I '°
obscure corner of the building and .in Bhadgaun the G olden
Gate is directly opposite and at a short distance from a
former two-storeyed barrack which was flattened by the
1934 earthquake. The largest empty space to be found is
in front of the palace in Pa tan, but this space was not plan-
ned especially for the palace. Moreover, the various inner
courtyards are not connected by a central entrance nor are
they grouped in such a way that they form a palace layout
which is controlled by a central axis or some such similar
planning regulation. Only in Patan are all the three court-
yards still in their square form, whereas in Bhadgaun and
Kathmandu later additions or alterations have meanf that ..
only a few inner courtyards have remained in their original
plan.

In order to describe a typical courtyard as a unit


within a palace, with its own particular functions, the Sun-
.•
dari Chauk of Patan has been selected, as it remains virtu-
ally intact and is readily accessible.

THE SUNDARICHAUK
The entrance leading to the courtyard is through a -
gate on the axis of the building, protected by two stone GROUND
FLOOR
statues representing Ganesh on the left and N~rasi11ha on
the right. The courtyard is at a lower level than the street,
with the exception of a walkway measuring approximately
one metre in width. T he floor of the open cou rtyard is • I
paved with square slabs of stone. In the centre lies the
I ,....
Tusa Hiti, the open air bathing place of the rulers. The - -
fountain spout is giided and the walls of the bath are ador-
ned with ex quisitely fine stone carvings. 1
I
. Next to the bathing a rea Siddhinarasinha Malla had .... -
a large stone couch erected, on which, it is said, he spent
many nights sleeping or meditating.
The rooms, K othas, and the open halls, Dalans, which
surround the Chauk have doors and windows overlooking I
ihe Chauk. These ground floor rooms were used as stables, -
lllillillJ
... arsenals, sanctuaries and for the palace guards. Four
staircases, located at each corner of the Chauk lead to the
upper floors, each of them giving access onto a long and
narrow room which is of the same length and width as one
wing of the Chauk. Communication between the rooms
apparently was not planned as there are no interconnecting
doors or corridors. The four rooms remain separate and
-
I - - FIRST
FLOOR

constitute four distinct living quarters. 25a SUND.<\.RI CHA UK M: '1 12 '3 '4 15

51
I
~ ~

-
I
~

I '
c
FRONT ELEVATION

rs
I
llIIIIllD
I

.
SECOND
FLOOR

25b SUND ARI CHA UK M r-•1 '2 '3 14 15 SECTION

It is' only on the second floor: which was probably facade, all rooms look mainly onto the inner courtyard. Also the
added later, that a surroundin~ latticed balcony is found, rooms are built to surround the courtyard and there are no central
like a corridor linking the different rooms with one another, structural walls or partitions. Each comer staircase leads to self-
as well as with those in the floor below. The four rooms contained living quarters, and each Chauk has its own sanctu-
on the fi rst floor appear to have been living and sleeping ary. Irrespective of its ornate decoration: the facade and its
quarters, whereas those on the second floor served as kit- various components resemble closely the ~gs ofa Bahal, and
chens and eating halls. The space immediately below the
originally, the palaces, like the Bahals, were probably limited
to two storeys only. .
roof.was generally too small to be of any use.
These few details indicate that the original designs of
The small screened windows, the rooms no higher than the royal palaces were inspired by the Bahal or perhaps that, in
two metres, the narrow staircases and the open-air bathroom ancient times, there was an overall ideal of what inner court-
Jead the Western observer to condude that the living condi- yards should look like, even though they may have had different
tions of the Nepali kings, living as they did in a medieval functions.
environment, were q ui te unassuming. The interio r furniture
of the king's rooms was similar to that of any ordinary
citizen, except that it may be supposed that cushions, Parks were not attached to a ny of the palaces, but
mattresses, carpets, chests and the like were more elaborate ~ardens
surr >unded by high walls did exist. Po nds a nd
11l'!d of richer quality. water fountains in the gardens and inner courtyards served
The single most important and most striking tactc r as bathing and washing places, as well as for d ri nking ,
in respect of the planning a nd building of a king's Chauk is fountains and were generally highly decorated. The garden
that it more closely resembles a ~ddhist monastery (Bahal) (Bhandarkhal) in Patan was laid out, according to an inscrip.-

y
than ordinary everyday living q~rters. Some details of tion, to provide flowers and consecrated water for the daily
this dilfcrentiation arc that, of an impressive front Puja of the god.

52
Apart from the domestic courtyards, the most i m f - 5) "Ansubarma ... left the Durbar at Deva Piitan,
tant structure in every palace is the Taleju temple w ich and removed to one which he had built, with many beauti-
contains the house god of the kings. The form of the Ta eju1
,ful courtyards, in a place named Madhyalakhu." 3
shrine is totally different in the three palaces, and ea
originates from a different era : Rerorts frcm Chinese travellers in the years 647/48
In Patan, there is a triple-roofed temple on a four-stor- A.O. and 657 A.D. descrited tl:en existing palace buildings
eyed palace base dating from 1671 , in Kathmandu a triple- as follows : ·
roofed temple on a base of 12 large stepped plinths, whose " In the capital of Nepal there is a c0nstruction in storeys
foundation dates from at least 1548, and in Bhadgaun a which has more than 200 tch'en of height ~nd 80 peu
two-storeyed building around an inner courtyard, resem- (400 ft) of circumference. Ten thousand men C4n find
bling a Bahal and dating from 1324. place in its upper part. It is divided in three terraces
and each terrace is divided in seven storeys. In the
The palaces and adjoining groups of temples were
four pavilions, there are sculptures to make you marvel.
surrounded by walls and gates that acted as fortifications.
Stones and pearls decorate them ... "
In all three Darbar Squares, two-storeyed °buildings can
... "The king, Na-ling-ti-po (Narendradeva) adorns
still be found with a series of columns opening onto the
himself with the pearls, rock crystal, mother of pearl,
palace and closed towards the city. They acted simultan-
coral, and amber, he has in the earrings of gold and
eously as barracks and fortifications.
pendants of jade, and a breloc belt ornamented with
the figure of nuddha. He seats himself on a seat oflions.
In the middle of the hall one spreads flowers and per-
History
fumes. The nobles and the officers and all the court are
The first references to palaces are found in legends of seated to the right and to the left o~ the ground; at his
various monarchs who abandoned old palaces and estab- sides are ranged hundreds of soldiers having arms."
lished new ones. The trend for establishing new palaces " ... Jn the middle of the palace there is a tow~r of seven
and even capitals was not uncommon. Struggles for power storeys with copper tiles. Its balustrade, grilles, col-
a1_1d land continued up to at least two hundred years ago, umns, beams, and everything therein are set with fine and
when the founding of capitals or palaces ensured the kings' even precious stones. At each of the four corners of the
omnipotence. tower there projects a water pipe of copper. At the
Listed below are some typical examples, demon- base there are golden dragons which spout forth water.
strating the reasons for the continual resiting of the palace : From the summit of the tower water is poured through
I) " Raja Sudhanwa ...... was displeased with his tunnels which finds its way down telow, streaming like
palace in Manju Pattan, and therefore changed his resi- a fountain form the mouth of the golden Makara." 4
dence to a· new one, built in a town which he founded on "The Talejuchauka inscription (ofNarendradeva) dated
the banks of the river Ikshumati, and named Sankiisya- samvat 67 (642 A.O.) speaks of hi.; glory spreading from
nagari ... " famed Kaila~kuta Bhavana to the sea".>
2) "Raja Vikramajit. ... built a durbar nine stories
"Bar-deva reigned eight years. Because his father
high, and surrounded the city with gardens and a wide
Narendra-deva relinquished th'e world and went to live
ditch ....
as a recluse. the Durbiir at Madhyalakhu became dis- ·
3) " Raja Patuka ... was attacke.d by the Somabansi
agreeable to the Raja, who therefore removed his court to
Rajputs, from the west, and, leaving the durbar at Gorkarna,
Manigal-bhatta Durbiir at J_alit-patan, which had been
removed to a distance of four kos to the south, across Sankha
built by the grass-cutter Lalit, under the direction of the
Mula Tirtha, where he built another durbar.
Raja's grandfather Bir-deva Raja."6
4) "Sivadeva-barma ... abandoned the Durbiir near
Bineswara, and one of nine stories in height was built at Thus the palace of Patao is the first mentioned of the
Deva Plita.n, where the Raja established his court". three cities.

53
THE PALACE OF PATAN
More conspicuous than the other two royal palaces, The backbone of the palace ensemble, which runs on
the Darbar Square in Patan is located in the very heart of a north-south axis, is the main facade of the three courtyard
the town, with no section near to the city's limits. The buildings and of the Digutale temple. In spite of the
palace was built at the junction of the two main trading great length of this facade, measuring approximately 100
streets of Patan and the whole area around the palace metres, the palace was never intended as a vast or spectacu-
and the cross road was later called Mangal Bajar. lar building. It comprises of three courtyard-like buildings
Of the three J'alace squares, this is the best preserved, built side by side and interspersed with temples. There is
.retaining most of its original form. It consists of two no organised communication between the three courtyards
distinct sections : which seem to have been built as separate units and appar-
ently according to traditional plans, without taking into
a) the palace with its temples and courtyards and
account the neighbouring structures.
b) the group of temples built in front of the palace com-
Furthermore, each Chauk has its own main gate
plex. Both areas are enclosed by irregular rows of adjacent
leading to the square and a smaller one at the rear which
dwellings.
leads to the garden.
~II tRe temples standing in front of the palace in the All the other doors of the facade are suprisingly
Darbar Square have been so -arranged that either their small : their measurements hardly exceed 0,65m x l . 35 m
entrance steps or their main doors face the palace, even and they serve a rather more decorative than practical
thcugh they were not built in any particular order or at any function, as the rooms to which these doors lead, are usually
predetermined distance from the palace. Since· most of entered from the courtyards.
these temples were erected by reigning kings, chiefly in In spite of the different functions of the Chauks, their
memory of their respective parents, their religious impor- overall plan and underlying concept are similar. The pecular-
. tar.ce· varies considerably in the minds of the population. ity that one bulilding is two-storeyed, while the others are
Three Shikhara-style temples (Nepali adaptions ·of the three-storeyed, is attributed to the fact that Chauks which
Indian stone temples) stand adjacent to seven temples in provided living-quarters were probably raised by one storey
the traditional style . at a later date.

•••
•••
54
( History
No palace building of Patan appears to date back emphasize the king's devotion towards · the eight Nagas,
further than the 17th century. The palace largely took its the goddesses of rain. As the completed structure turned
present form during the reign of Siddhinarasinha Malla out to be a very impressive and beautiful one, Siddhinara-
(1620-1660 A.D.) and Shrioivasa Malla(l6~0-1684 A.D.) sinha named it Sundari Chauk, the "magnificant courtyard''.
These buildings were probably set on the foundatiQns of In 1641 A .O. (NS 761) the Digutale temple, 10s1ac
older buildings, or even replaced such buildings. Describing the palace complex, was completed. Siddhinarasinha commis·
the form of the palace, two reports from ~he 12th century sioned only a four-storeyed building, although it rea~~cd
speak of inner courtyards : fi.ve storeys before a fire destroyed it. This temple was
In 1167 A. D . Rudradeva built a ·courtyard at the dedicated to the goddess Taleju Bhavani or Tulaja Maju.
southern end of Panchapuri and in 1170 A D. Amr~deva Inside this temple, the king ordered one room to be built,
added a courtyard at !ti~. northern end of Panchai:>uri. • where he coulci rP.tire for meditation, prayers and Mantra
. Su'ndari Chauk, ~he-most southerly of the three court- recitation.
.yards was completed in 1(12.7 A. D. (NS 747) and was destined Several years later, in 1647 A.D. (NS 767), the inaug-
. '
to be the residence of Siddhinarasinha Malla ·and his uration of the Bhandarkhal (garden) took place. Dl.ring
family. At the same time, the Tusa Hiti was built in tli.e the same year, Siddhinarasiriha Malla had a pool and
centre of the courtyard, its design being octagonal to fountain built.

Patan-
Palace and Palace Arca (Darbar Square)
A- Mani Keshar Narayan Chauk
B- Digutale temple
C- Taleju temple
D- Mui Chauk
E- Agam temple
F- Sundari Chauk
G- Bhandarkhal

Temples in the traditional style


1- Mani Ganesh
2- Bhimsen
3- Yishvanath
8- Char N~rayan
9- Narayan
11- Harishankar
13- Biseshavar
Temples in the Shikhara style
7- Krishna
10- Narasinha
12- Krishna
15- Shiva
Other buildings of the Palace area
4- Mani Mandapa
5- Mandapa
6- Mani Hiti
t 4- Cbaukvatha- Dbarmashala 26 PATAN DARDAR SQUARE
6 M_.'l"!'lo_.,._...,......,So

55
In 1660 A. D. (NS 786) the Mui Chauk, which is con- The construction of the northern-most courtyard ,
sidered to have been begun by Shrinirash Malla, was com- which is today called the Keshar Narayan Chauk, is consi-
pleted by Shrinivasa Malla, as a dedicatio•n to the goddess dered to have been started in 1675 A. D. (NS 795), in the
Durga. However, in this case, the small gilt sa nctuary, reign of Shrinivasa Malla but it was only completed in
located in the inner courtyard, was to bt! devoted to the 1734 A. D. (NS 854), during the reign of Shrivishnu Malla.
service of Ishtadevta (known as Mantraju), the favourite To enable the d.esired extension to the palace, it was necessary
house goddess of the ruler. Jn the two-storeyed wings of to remove the adjacent Buddhist monastery, called Hakhusi
the building, surrounding the courtyard, lived the palace Bahal. This caused difficulties of a mainly religious nature.
priests. In the cou'rtyard itself, various dances and cere- The god fearing ruler, anxious not to offend any deity,
monies were performed each year, to which the inhabitants ordered the rebuilding of the Bahal in · the neighbourhood
of Pata n were invited. of Ga Bahal at Dathu Toi and named it again Hak.husi
Bahal. Today it is also known as Ha Bahal or Laksmikalyan-
- varniasanskrit Shriratnakara Mahavihara. Since then, on
A yea r later Shrinivasa M<llla erected a temple in the
the occasion of certain festivals, an image of Lord Buddha,
southern wing of the Mui Chauk, dedicatred to the Agam-
encased in a cubic copper container has been placed be-
devta, the secret house-goddess. Even today, the door
low the golden window of the Keshar Narayan Chauk,
!Cading to the sanctury is guarded by almost life-size gilded
where it is the object of great devotion and veneration. 8
bronze statues of Ganga a nd Yamuna.
The following information describes the completion
It was in 1671 A . D. (NS 791) that the Taleju temple, of the Chauk as follows :
commissioned by Shrinivasa Malla in th•e northern wing "ViglUmalla reconstructed the palace with the active
of the Mui Cha uk, was ina ugurated. However, Harasinha help of his subjects; the building was completed within
placed a n idol of his Ishtadevta in it, which he had brought three months and was renamed Chaukvatha". 9
all the. way from Simraungadh in the Tarai. This temple It docs not seem feasible that this building could have
was erected over a palace-like, three-storeyed building, the been completely built in this short time and one can there-
new structure being an additional three· storeys high. The fore draw the conclusion that in the period of three months
corners of the roof were cut back to create the impression the second floor only, with its golden window, was added
of an octagonal tower. to two already existing storeys.

56
THE PALACE OF BHADGAUN
The Bhadgaun Royal Palace lies at the northern edge resthouses were never rebuilt and only platforms and lions.
of the town and is unmistakably removed from the bazaar guarding their former entrances. mark the site. What is
now an expanse of debris to the east of the present palace
road which is the lifeline of the city and curves in wide arcs
appears to have been part of the former palace complex,
from east to west through the city. Several alleys connect
but no building in this area has been rebuilt. Of the palace
the palace complex with the most important town square,
fortifications only the gate at the western approach .and a
the Taumadi Toi, dominated by the five-tiered Nyatapol
two-storeyed structure to the east remain. Furthermore
temple and the ~mpos~ng ~}lairav temple.
the name of a Toi near the ruins established the former
existence of a gate : Sukuldhoka Toi (Strawmat Gate Toi.)
The former expanse of the palace complex, inclusive Various two-storeyed buildings (Dharma~halas) and old
of the gardens, can only be reconstructed through detailed photographs have enabled the retracing of the southern
research, as only 6 of the original Chauks, which are said fortifications of the palace complex.
to have numbered between 12 and 99, remain. Of these 6, Of the existing buildings, only the Mui Chauk and
C\nly 3 Chauks clearly display the square courtyard-form : Bhairav Chauk as well as the building with fi ftyfive windows,
those of the Kumari, Mui and Bhairav Chauk. Another have survived the last few centuries with little alteration .
two Chauks, located on the western side of the present With the legendary 99 inner courtyards of the palace.
palace can easily be reconstructed, as their former entrances 12 still existed in 1742 A. D . and now only six are left.
can be located by the stone sculptures of various gods, In contrast to Patan's Darbar Square; the Darbar
which still stand guard. Square of Bhadgaun prior to the earthquake, was not a~
- distinc:tly defined as it may seem today. There were at
A significant difference between the Bh!idgaun palace
least three temple groups : one in front of the palace, one
and those of the other two cities, is the absence of temple-
to the east and one to the south-west, which were formerly
towers. The Talej u shrine, housing the favou rite goddess,
almost completely separated by a two-storeyed building
is found in a wing of the Mui Chauk and is only highlighted
(Dharmashala) used by the military. A three-tiered Shiva
hv its decorated metal roof.
temple on five stepped plinths dominated the eastern group
The earthquake of 1934 not only razed much of the of temples, the two-tiered Pashupatinath temple the cen tral
palace but also caused extensive damage to surrounding group, while the two-tiered Krishna temple dominated the
buildings. Some of the more severely damaged temples and south-western group.

57
History
During the early Middle Ages the palacewas already ( 1613-16Jb A.O.). In the Pokhari he had a wooden post
known by the na me of Tipura and was then the seat of the with a gilt head of Yasuki (snake god) erected. This
de facto authority of the kingdom. sunken pond included a golden water spout in a niche which
The construction of the palace probably coincided was richly adorned with fine s.t one sculptures. If this
with the establishment of the city in the 9th century. The place did indeed serve as the bathing area of the kings, as
oldest surviving inner courtyard is the Mui Chauk which did the Sundari Chauk of the Patan and Kathmandu palaces,
is thought to go back to 1324 A. D. then it would be a fair assumption that the bathing a rea of
the Bhadgaun palace too was once enclosed by buildings to
Various sources of information indicate that 1.1ost of form a courtyard.
the palace dates back to the 17th century. In chronological
order, these include : In 1678 A.O . (NS 798) the Thanthurajakula was cons-
The foundation of the Mui Chauk seems to date back , truc~ed and the Siddhi Chauk was completed.
to the beginning of the 13th century. According to Regmi In 1697 A.O . (NS 817) under Bhupatindra Malla the
the temple of the Tulajadevi is attributed to Harasinhadeva "Darbar with fiftyfive windows" was built. In one of the
by legends. Also D. Wright records that: windows, for everyone to s !e, he placed a pane of gla.ss which
.. Raja Harisinhadeva established the goddess there. in he had obtained from an Indian. This palace wing was
a temple which he named Mula Chauk:· 10 severely da maged in 1934, but it was restored with minor
altetations, so that the former bay-windows on the third
In 1580 A. 0 . (NS 700) the Bhairav Chauk had al- fl oor no longer protruded to form a long balcony as before.
ready been built. It was also known as the Sadashiva Malla
Chauk, because Sadashiva Malla, ruler of Kathmandu To Bhupatindra Malla also goes the credit of adding
between 1574- 1580 A. 0 ., was once held prisoner there. further wings to the royal palace which had seen ma ny
additions during the three generations of his predecessors.
In 1662 A. D. (NS 782} Jagatprakasha Malin ( 1643- The Mui Chauk, as also other courtyards, were refurnished
·1673 A. 0 .) built the Vasantapur Darbar or Spring-town and many half finished wings were completed. He also
palace. a type of leisure house for the queens. na ming it also roofed the temple of Taleju in gilded sheets and crowned it
Nakhachen-Tava-Gol-K wath . Two stone lions still mark with golden finials.
the site of the Vasantapur Darbar at the western end of the . In 1707 A.O . (NS 827) Bbupatindra Malla had the
present palace. Malati Cbauk built with the stone idols of Hanuman and
Narasinha guarding its entrance. {The southern wing of
In 1677 A.O. (NS 797) under Jitamitra Malla (1673- this building today is completely changed, having been
1693 A.O.) the lta Chauk was repaired, which was situated rebuilt to house the Thanka-· Museum).
to the west of the Mui Chauk. A stone water spout was
·· constructed within it, so that "the king himself would be .,
a ble to fetch water". He re an inscription prohibits anythin~
Also in 1707 A. 0. (NS 327) the figures of Ugrachanda
that would make the surrounding of the courtyard and its
and Bhairav were installed on either side of a gate at the
water conduit unclean. It lays down that no one should
western end of the palace, leading to the Vasantapur Chauk.
" wash their clothi ng, urinate, or throw mud .... a nd if
They are still standing today, but now only guard the
there was any repair to be done, this should be undertaken
by the king of the principality:·11 entrance to a garden.

The most important palace gate was gilded during


In the same year Jitamitra also repaired the Nag Ranaj it Malia's reign ( 1722-1769 A.O.) in 1754 A.O.
Pokha ri (snake-pond), which was build by _Ja2atir Malla (NS 874) and it was called Sun Dhoka or the G olden Gate.
.. ·...
,• '
.. :· ·.:
. • ....
..
. .· ...·
. ·.. .
' . .· . : ....

. ''

BHADGAUN DARDAR SQUARE ~ M·--1-0---------5-0

'

Bbad&••
Palace and Palace Area (Darbar Square) Temples in the Shikara style
A- Yasantapur Chauk 3- Shiva
B- Bhandapukhu Chauk 6- Shiva
Temples in the traditional style
· C- Kumari Chauk 2- Narayan 9- Vatsala Durga
t 12- Siddhi Lakshmi
, 0 - Malati Chauk 4- Narayan
E- Mui Chauk 5- Kri shna Other buildings of the Palace Area
F- Bhairav Chauk (Sadashiva Chauk) 8- Pashupati l- Gate
G- Beko Chauk {Thanthurajakula) 13- Shiva (Rameshvara) 7- Dharmashala
H- Nag Pokhari 14- Yatsala J l- Dharmashala
I- Palace wing with 55 windows 15- Shiva JO- Dharmashala

59
THE PALACE OF KATHMANDU
The name of the palace Hanuman Dhoka (the gate plastered and white-washed. At the same time, to give a
guarded by Hanuman) is also applied to the entire area uniform appearance to all the buildings of the Darbar
surrounding the palace. This area extends from Vasanta- Square, most of the old palace and most of the temples were
pur, situated in the south, to Maru Toi, situated in the west, also plastered and white-washed. ·
to Hanuman Dhoka, the entrance to the palace and then With the ~onstruction of the Juddha Sadak (or New
further northwards to Makhan T ol. Road) after the earthquake of 1934, connecting the palace
The fact that Kathmandu was established as the capital area with the parade ground (Tundhikhel) on the east side
of Nepal more then 200 years ago gave thi:s palace, as the of the city, the palace lost its formerly well-defined orien-
seat of the Government, special importance: at the expense tation to the old bazaar street that crossed the city and
of the other palaces. This was also the reason for the ex- the Kathmandu Valley in an east-west direction. This also
pansion of the palace layout and extensive: modifications, brought about the separation of large sections of the palace
and as a result the palace has lost most of its ,original appear- gardens on the south of Juddha Sadak which, until the
, earthquake, housed the royal stables and stretched to the
a nee.
outer limits of the old city. At the same time _palace wings
were torn down and the large square in front of the Vasan-
The traditional modes of construction :followed during
_tapur tower was laid out. With nine inner courtyards the
~he S~ah dynasty were sacrificed to tine architectural· Hanuman Dhoka palace occupies the largest area of all
ideas imported during the Rana rule. A brief interest in
palaces.
the Arabic form around 1890 A.O., fo~!od on the outer Only the Mui Chauk stands unaffected by -continual
facades of the Nasal Chauk, the Mohan Chauk and Sundari alteration. However. the original form of the Sundari,
Chauk.' was soon followed by fashion for tlb.e neo-classical Mohan, Nasal and Lohan Chauks can still be deciphered.
style, ~mported from England where at this time it was One wing of the Masan Chauk with its Bhagvati shrine,
~om1ng popular. In contrast to the traditional propor- squeezed between the Seto Bhairav building and the neo-
t1o~s, e?ormous neo-classical palace wings were built, classical Gaddibhaitak. also stands unaltered. The remain-
?bhteratmg earlier Viharas and dwellings. The new buil- ing inner courtyards were constructed between 1890 and
mgs were constructed in simple brickwork: and ornately
1930 A.O .

60
History Lohan Chauk
Little is known about the origin a nd initial appearance Prithvinarayan Shah ;111d hi:-. successor Pra1apsi11ha
of the palace in Kathmandu. Most ofthe'buildings standing Shah were respon~ibk for 1he erec1ion of 1he four towers
· set on the three lower s1oreys of 1he courtyard-style
are only 300 to 400 years old. It is certain that the palace
building. known ;1~ 1he Vila:-. Mandir. v.hich is apparently of
site is much 01der, a nd that continuous reconstruction and
an earlier dale. The four corner tO\\ers of the courtyard are
new building constantly altered its layout. Apart from the generally referred to as :
Mui Chauk, no build ing from Mahendra Malia's palace
Vilas Mandir or Lalit tower (south-east corner)
...
(1561-1574 A . D .) has survived. Lakshmivilas or Bhaktapur tower (north-east corner)
Mui Chauk Bangla Mandir or Kirti pur tower (north-west corner)
· (Main or principal courtyard) Nautale (nine storeys) or Vasantapur tower (south-west
corner)
Built in 1564 A. D. by Mahendra Malla, it is the most
The lower storeys of Vasantapur seem to be the oldest
important courtyard of the entire palace area , since, apart
of the group since the courtyard buildings are built up against
fro m the most important religious celebrations, it was the this tower without regard for the existing roof struts or
place where the Malla kings were crowned. It is directly windows.
associated with the nearby Taleju temple, a nd was originally
inhabited by priests only. About other. still existing, Chauks of the palace not
much is known. These are the Trishul Chauk with the Taleju
Sund ar i Chauk temple. the Masan Chauk with the three tiered Nasa temple,
It was built in 1651 A. D . (NS 77 1) by Pratapa Malla the Lamo Chauk. the Dakha Chauk and the Hnutachhen
(164 1-1674 A. D .) as living quarters for the.R oyal family. Chauk .
Centrally, in a sunken bathing area, a water fountain and
The most striking feature of the Hanuman , Dhoka
the figure of Narayan can be found.
Palace is the many multi-roofed towers. The palace in
Mohan Cbau k Bhadgaun has no towers, that of Patan has three. but the
Built in 1649 A. D. (NS 769) by Pratapa Malla for Hanuman Dhoka palace has eight. Four of these are the
himself and his fa mily, t he Mo ha n Chauk is said to be corner towers of the Lohan Chauk (Kirtipur, Lalitpur,
built in the Chaukwath style (inner c:ourt with four corner Bhaktapur and Vasantapur towers) and do not house <I god
towers). Three of these towers can still be identified : figure as they were constructed as symbols of the unification
Panchamukhi Hanuman, Agamchhen temple and a Puja of the Valley. The four other palace towers ware temples
tower in the west wing. It is reported, regarding the which, as in Pata n. were set on foundations of several
construction of the Mohan Chauk, that" .. . Pratap Malla storeys :
a) Panchamukhi Hanuman (Hanuman with five faces),
got a small buildi ng of quaint shape and much less architec-
the only five-tiered circular temple in Nepal, built
tural design converted into a huge mansion, every inch of
between 1650 and 1655 A. D. by Pmtapa Malla is
which was studded with the images of Hindu Gods and
only accessible to priests.
Goddesses. " 12 If the "huge mansion" is the present b) Triple-tiered Agamchhen temple with a Gajur(Pinnac-
three-storeyed Mo ha n Chauk, it surel y is a rather inaccurate le) in the form of a Shikhara temple. This shrine
~escription. houses the secret private deity of the Malla king~ .
Nasal Chauk c) The Degutaleju temple was built by Shivasinha Malla
• ihe exact date o f the construction o f the Nasal Chauk ( 1579- 1620 A. D .). Degutaleju is one of the manifes-
is unknown , but it is thought to have been built by Pratapa tations of a goddes s of the Shakta cult and with its
three-tiered roof is the largest of the palace temples.
Malla and named after the figure of the dancing Shiva
d) After the conquest of Kathmandu, Prithvinarayan
(Nasaleshvara) found in a small white-washed shrine on the
Shah set the figu re of the goddess Bhagvati in the
western side of the courtyard. During the Malla period
triple-tiered Bhagvati temple, since the figure of Ma-
this inner courtyard was the scene of royal· audiences, plays
hipatindra Narayan. which had been the re previously,
and dance performances. The importance of the courtyard was ~toler. in 1766 A. D. The exact date of the construc-
increased during the Shah period, when aside from many tion of the Bhagvati temple is unknown. Jagajjaya
celebrations. it became the venue for the coronatipn o f the Malla (1722- 1735 A. D.) is said to have been respon-
Shah kings. sible for its construction.

6I
e) The largest and most important temple in the palace foun~ below RIUliV~~ f<?rcst in La i.impat.
area is the Taleju temple (Tava dega) which was built
by Mahend ra Malla in 1564 A. D . in the Trishul Chauk l(atlllliudu
Palate and-the Palace Arca (Darbar Square
and is allegedly a copy of the Taleju Temple in Bhad-
gaun. Including the 12 plinth steps, the Taleju temple A- Sinha Dhoka
8:....
Talcju temple
in Kathmandu is some 40 metres high, and the most C- Trishul Chauk
richly adorned of all the temples in the Valley. It 0- Sundari Chauk
E- Mohan Chauk
is said that this temple was placed on the high foun- F- Agamchhcn temple
dation in order to bring it to the same level as the G- Panchamukhi Hanuman temple
H- Mui Chaok
Taleju temples of its sister cities. Except for a few 1- Shiva temple
days in October, during the Dasain festival, when it J- Bhandarkhal
K- Narayan J>okhari
is open to the Nepali public, only the resident priests l - Nag Pokhari
M- Agamchhcn temple
are permitted access to the shrine. ·N- Lohan Chauk with
At least five other temples formerly belonged directly k- Kirtipu r tower
to the palace complex. Two stand in the garden and three bh- Bhaktapur tower
v- Vasantapur tower
stand separately on the south side of Juddha Sadak, surroun-
I- Lalitpur tower
ded by new houses : 0- Nasal Chauk
f) Two-tiered Shiva temple supposedly of the Rana J>- Dhaka Chauk
Q- Lamo Chauk
period near the Nag Pokhari ; R- Gaddibhaitak (Hall}
g) A single roofed shrine of Ganesh near the Narayan S- Hnutachhc:n Chauk
T- Masan Chauk
Pokhari; U- Bhagvati temple
h) Temple of the wind god, on the roof terrace of the V- Degutale temple
X- Ha nu man Dhoka (gate)
Gaddhibaithak; Temples in the traditional style
i) Three-tiered Agamchhen temple from the 17th century 3 Kavind rapur
set on a three-storeyed foundation located to the south, 7 Shiva
8 Bhagvati
outside the present palace boundaries; 9 Ganesh (Ashokavinayak)
j) Three-t~ered Nasa-dega temple in Massan Chauk 12 Trailokya Mohan
14 Shiva (Maju Dcga)
presumably built at the e!1~ of 16th century. 15 Bhagvati
16 Vishnu
As mentioned above, the Bhandarkhal garden was 17 Shiva-Parvati
' divided by the construction of Juddha Sadak. The section 20 Sarasvati
21 Krishna
near the palace was earlier disfigured by the establishment of 22 Jagannath
storehouses, walls, and vegetable fields. 23 Shiva
25 Indra
'f he two Pokharis in the palace garden were laid out 26 Krishna
27 Shiva
by Pratapa Malla. In 1663 A. D . \ NS 783) he placed, in 28 Shiva
the Nag Pokhari, the post topped with a gilded serpent's 29 Shiva (Kagcshvar Mahadcv)
31 Mahavishnu
head, which he had taken from a pond at the western end 32 Shiva
of Bhadgaun during a skirmish with the king of that city. 33 Shiva
34 Shiva (Mahcndrcshvar)
About the same time the Narayan Pokhari was consecrated.
Temples in the Shikhara style
The Narayan figure resting on a stone serpent bed is a copy 5 Shiva
of the Narayan in Budhanilkantha (a deity which kings may II Shiva
13 Kamdcva
not visit since they a re themselves a n incarnation of Narayan). 19 Vishnu
30 Shiva (Kotilingeshvar)
However, in order to be able t o worship Narayan in this
form Pratapa Malla had this copy made. The pool was Other buildings of the palace Area
I Kumari Chauk
filled with water from the Budhanilkantha pool having 2 Sikanmugal Bahal
4 Sinha Sattal
.first $Ought the permission from the Budhanilkantha Nara- 6 Maru Sattal (Kashthamandapa)
yan and this required the construction of a long canal 10 Lakshminarayan Sattal
18 Layku Bahal
which posed considerable technical problems. Remains of 24 Kala Bhairav Statue
parts of chis canal, running. along a sand dam, ca n still be 35 Tana Bahal

62
28 KATHMANDU DARBAR SQUARE ~ "' ..
•, 'so

63
CHAPTER VII

THE TEMPLE

65
J'HE TEMPLE
Introduction
As in other cultures, the development of a distinct tional ftoors. but instead comprise mainly of a Cella (Gar-
Nepali style of architecture is reflected in Nepal's religious bhagriha) on the ground flour, above which there is an unused
buildings. Roofs of decreasing dimensions, stacked one space with a variable number of protective roofs around
above the other, co nstitute the traditional style which, to it. Only in the case of a few temples, where the Shrine
the exclusion of others, is the subject of this chapter. containing the deity lies on an upper floor, do the number of
The term "Pagoda" used by Europeans to describe. storeys correspond to the description of multi-storeyed.
the traditional multi-tiered temple style is largely unknown H istory
and meaningless to the Nepalese and so it will not be used No satisfactory explanat ion of the origin of this temple
in this book. The Nepalese have their own general terms style has yet been forthcoming. Buildings with tiered roofs
Mandir (Nepali) or· Dega (Newari) which do not give any were already known in both India and China before the
indication of the style of the temple. T he Newari word time of Christ, and it is certain that the penetration of
Ocga, originating from the Sanskrit - term Devagriha, 1
(ndian cultural influences in Nepal has decidedly affected
meaning God's house. will thui._be used to describe the te'!'- . the development of Nepali temple architecture. (Refer to
pies. chapter on Viharas ). Alternatively, it is possible that
The overall description of the temple style can only similar circumstances such as climate, environment, and
be very genera lized since, de~pite the first impressions of available building materials, encourage simila r building
uniformity, many conceptual differences occur within the styles in widely different regions. Excavations in China
one basic style, thus warranting individual treatment. have revealed that houses with tiered roofs existed there two
Numerous accounts, to date, have made the error of millenia ago. Descriptions made by Chinese travellers to
referring to temples with several roof tiers as "multi-stor- the Kathmandu Valley in the 7th century, however, suggest
eyed ", failing to distinguish between the actual habitable that the Nepali method of roof tiering was new to them.
· floors and the merely tiered roofs. Such a differentiation These earliest descriptions refer to buildings oflavish execu-
is of utmost importance, as by far the majority of multi- tion, which are no longer to be found in their original
tiered temples do not have the ,equivalent number of func- splendour, but whose basic design still persist in numerous
instances today. Further reports indicate that multi-tiered
bu ildings have existed in the Valley at least since the
beginning of the Christian era.
The foundation dates of the oldest Degas arc un-
known and are shrouded in legend. The best example of
this is the Pashupatinath Dega which was already of great
significance in the first few centuries A.O. and the most
important Hindu Dega of Nepal. Numerous reports of
repairs, alterations and extensions provide a relatively clear
picture of its development as a selection of such reports
shows :
It was founded by Ha ridattavarma in about 325 A.O.
{legend).
The roofs were repaired during the reign of Gunaka-
madeva (approx. 12th century).
The roofs were again repaired under Sadashivadeva
(approx. ~ 100 A.O .).
The roofs were gilded by Ananta Malla (1307 A. O .).
Ganga Rani (1579-1620 A.O.), wife of Shiva Singha
had the middle roof removed, and the gold of it used for
the new Gajur (Pinnacle). The Dega was remodelled with
two roofs only.
In 1702 A.O. the Dega was destroyed by fire and was
30 SIKALI DEVI T EMPLE rebuilt in its present from .

66
The Changunarayan Dega, one of the oldest sanctu- However, it must be said that the existing structure>
aries in the Kathmandu Valley, shares a similar history, as of the above mentioned Degas have probably altered as
the sculptures dating from the 5th to 7th centuries A.O. much during the centuries as those of Pashupatinath and
indicate. This Dega, too, was destroyed by fire and rebuilt Kumbheshvar. Natural disasters, such as earthquakes.
by Vishva Malla in 1698 A.O. floods, fires, termites and deliberate destruction during war-
The Dega of Kumbheshvar i.n Patan demonstrates fare, have necess~tiated repairs.jNatural decay is another
how time has brought dramatic changes to the original factor, since the. Valley's subtropical climate does not
building design. ~rected in 1392 A. D., this Dega was encourage a long life-span for building materials such as
referred to by Jayasthiti Malla in 1422 A. D. as-two-tiered. wood, clay mortar and brick:..
· Shrinivasa Malla (1660-1684 A. D.) added three tiers, so Nevertheless, several Degas dating back to the 16th
· that it is now one of the two five-tiered Degas in Nepal. century have apparently undergone only minor alterations.
These include Char Narayan in Patan (1566 A. D.), Indresh-
var Mahadev in Panauti (15th century), Macchindranath
in Patao (15th century) and probably the lower part of
.Kumb.heshvar, Patan (15th .c~~tury).
The majority of existing .Degas, however, were built
in the period between the late 16th century and mid 18th
century A.D. and remain relatively unaltered.
Nomenclature
Degas, with a few exceptions, are named after the gods
for whom they were built. However, variations in names
: occur because of the simultaneous usage of three languages:
Sanskrit, Nepali and Newari. Thus Shiva is also known
as Mahadeo, Mahadev, Deo-Deo and by his different mani-
festations e. g. Pasbupati, Jagannath, Shaakar, Mahesbvar,
Nrityeshvar.
In order to differentiate between the nlJfllerous O:gas
dedicated to the sam~ god, place niimes such as squares or
Tots, or particular attributes of each' Dega :or. its enviro~
ment, have been included in their names·. Tb: :.milll Gaaesh
shrine near the Kashthamandapa in the Maru Toi is known

rr;i as the Kathmandu or Maru Ganesh, and the Bhairav near


the village of Halchok is called the Halchok Bhairav. In
some instances the god is of such importance that the village

~ in which the Dega is found is named after the god, e. g.


Harasiddhi, Chandeshvari and lchangu.
Agamdevtas and Kuldevtas (private and family gods)
\ ..• have Degas known simply as "Agamdegas" or the
29
. . ~
KUMBHESHVAR TEMPLE "Brahman's Kuldegas", since their true names are not
meant for public knowledge (family shrines are only visited
by private priests or by members of the family).
Other Degas that can be counted among the oldest
are: Ichangu Narayan in lchangu, Bhringeshvar in Sona- Seldom does the physical feature of the Dega contri-
guthi, Umamaheshvar in Patao, Saugal Toi and S ttyanarayan ~e to its name as is the case with Bhadgaun's Nyatapol
in Hadigau~ :. ~aning "building with five roofs".

67
Religious significance of the Dega Construction Design
The importance given to each Dega by the people, and The shape, size and location of the Cella generally
the frequency of visits made to them, vanes according to determine the design of the su perstructure and the type
their d ifferent attributes,such as the status a nd power of th.e of Dega, as in t he followi ng examples:-
individ ual gods for whom the Degas have been built.
While Shiva, manifested as Pashupatinath (Lord M the
A- A square or rectangular room with three open
animals), is the most sacred Hindu God, other manifestations
sides.- The idol of the god to whom the temple is
of Shiva, even if ther are similar to the im1ge of Pash u pati ,
dedicated, .usually Ganesh, is placed against the rear
do not necessarily exert the same religious p.Jw.!rs, as the
wall.
powers of one statu~ are not necessarily transferred to that
of another in a different location.

Myths and legends play an important role in the


religious significance, and account for the lasting importance
of some Degas that have attracted a stead y stream of pilgrims
over the centuries up to modern times, notably Pashupati-
nath, Seto Macchindranath and the Kathmandu Ganesh .

Other gods enjoying regular pilgrimage at certain


times of the year include those at Changunarayan, Harasid-
dhi, Vajravarahi etc. Such pilgrimages may occur at inter-
vals ranging from seven days to twelve months or even
twelve years.

·other groups of Degas whose gods a re purported to


have certain healing powers, are frequented by people who
suffer ill-health themselves or have sickness occur ring in
their families. Chandeshvari in the village of Tokha is
renowned for its healing powers fo r lepers, Balkumari in
Thimi for sick children and Sikalidevi in Khokana is much
worshipped during epidemics; Santaneshvar Mahadev
near Thaibu is an important fertility god, whereas Vajra-
vahari in Chapagau n protects domestic a nimals. By far
the most popular god, who is responsible fo r resolving the
problems of people's daily lives, is the Kat hmandu Ganesh.

Other factors determining the popularity of a Dega


can be the builder. a ruler, a family clan or a trust. The
geographic location ~lso is an important aspect. Sometimes
the shrine is built near the confluence of rivers, on a mountain
ridge or at th'! intersection of several roads or paths.
Mayb~ a particular deity can establish a precedent either
by the status of the god itself or his physical representation .
There may also be precise reasons for a foundation, such
as legends of possessing magical healing a nd fertility powers.
The building style or size of the Degas, however, is not an
important consideration in these contexts. 31 ' T EMPLE TYPE A

68
B- A square or rectangular roo!Jl with only -one ent- C- A square room with four doorways.- The Dega
rance.- The god stands against the rear wall which has no particular orient!ition. The image of the
in this case is usually Narayan. god, usually a Shiva Linga, is centrally placed.
- ~·

,32 TEMPLE TYPE B 33 TEMPLE TYPE C

69
o- .A. square room, open on an four sides and encircled E- Similar to B. only with the addition of a surround-
by a second wall, which has a wide doorway on each ing roofed porticos-The god stands against the
of its four sides.- The deity, generally a Shiva rear wall. ·
Linga, but oq::asionally Narayan on · a Yoni, is
centrally placed .
. ..;...,. ... ;::. ..

34. TEMPLE TYPE .b JS TEMPLE TYPE E


F- A development of type D where the exterior wall G- Unique features place this Dega type in a category
is replaced by a colonnade. The deity, always a of its own, apart from the group of Degas having a
. ~h.iv~•. ~s centrally positioned. small Cella in the ground floor. The floor plan is
\ ~ ~~
iilmost always rectangular. The shrine with the idol
of the god is placed always on the upper floor and
in place of the Cella there is a hall taking the entire
upper storey to form a meeting room. T hese Degas
are dedicated to Bhimsen and Bhairav and to tan-
tric goddesses. ·

TEMPLE TYPE F 37 TEMPLE TYPE G


..

71
H- The Cella of Dega type H is normally either of type , l - It may be incorrect to describe buildings of this
of C or D and the Dega's multi-tiered superstructure type as temples, because they are called, even in
is set on a three or . four storey high palace or Newari, Dyocchcns,which means god's house. Never-
above a two or three storey base resembling theless,there art a con.~iderable number of Dyocchens
the features of a residential building. In both cases · and many of them are attributed with the same
the temples house Agamdevtas or Kuldevtas. importance by the worshippers as ordinuy temples.
Furthermore, they contain building elements, such
as guardian lions, a torana over the entrance door.
and a Gajur on the roof, which are typical of shrines
and temples. For. these reasons they · have been
included under this heading.
The Dyocchens outwardly resemble dwellings and
are very often part of terraced groups of dwellings.
They are dedicated mostly to tantric goddesses,
such as the Navadurgas and also fo Bhairav and
Ganesh. Their shrine is always situated in the upper
storey. where the main god is brought for several
weeks a year from the n:iain shrine (Pith). The Piths
are located normally at the fringes of the settlements.
outside the old settlement boundary.

: : : ..
=
-- ---
. 38 38 TEMPLE TYPE H 39 TEMPLE TYPE I
/

Examples
Essentially. the superstructure above the Cella gives
linle indication as to the god housed within it: nor does
the shape of the Dega. the number of tiers or the amount of .;
ornamentation help. · However. one can generalise as to . '
which god is likely lo be found in a particular Dega. For ·
instance Narayan is mainly found in type B. Ganesh is
mainly found in type A. and Shiva is mainly found in type
C ;ind D .
Typical examples from fou r of the above groups a re
described here in detail :

G ro up A : Ganesh in Kathmand u, C hhalaku Toi


8 : Narayan in Kathmandu, Tripureshvar
D : Char Narayan in · Patan. Mangalbajar
F : Shiva in Kathmandu. Darbar Square.

PLAN SECTION
FRONT ELEVATION
40 GANESH DEGA M----~----~2----~~3~

GANESH DEGA
liuildin t: Plinths natural stone and brick
Dedicated to Ganesh
materials : (original appearance ex-
(roughly hewn stone, in a wall recess)
tensively cha nged due to'
Erected hy .. ..... ...... .
repair\:
Date 19th Century
Walls - constructed in baked
Temple type A
bri~k s and cla y rnortar:
(Temple with one roof. Cella open on
Roof - tiled with traditional tiles:
three sides\
Woodwork - struts. beam ~. rafters.
Dimensions
posts etc. of unpainted
Phu1 Cella l ,80m x l.70m
timber.
Elevation Temple J.50m
NARAYAN DEGA
Dedicated to Narayan Building Plinths-faced with face bricks, corners
(Stone figure on a pedestal) materials: and edges of stone;
Erected by Walls- burnt bricks and clay mortar,
Date 1822 A. D. brick skin on exterior of walls
Temple type B and wall a rea of Cella;
Two-tiered temple; the structure above Roofs- traditional tiles,
the square Cella is empty and unused. Woodwork- doors, struts, beams,
Dimensions rafters, posts etc. of un-
Plan Ground floor 1,82 m x 1,80 m painted wood.
Plinth base 3,95 m x 4,00 m
Elevation Temple 6,40 m
Plinth base + 1,50 m

Total 7,9-0m

·. ,

PLAN SECTION

4la NARAYAN DEGA


M,....-~_...,. __
2 3

74
FRONT ELEVATION SIDE ELEVATION

41b M..--.....-~~-..
NARAYAN D£GA
1 2 3

15
CHAR NARAYAN .DEGA
Dedicated to Narayan
(Stone figure in shape of a linga)
Erected by Purandharsinha
D ate 1566 A. D. (686 f'IS)
Temple-type D
Two tiered temple; square, formed by
. inner wall, ho.uses the shrine; outer wall
forms surroundi~g walkway. Only the
ground floor Cella an~ walkway are
·.Junctional1Jbe·s'tructure above is empty
and unused.
-·· .. . ....
- . Dimensions ··
Ground floor 6,62 m x 6,63.m
Plinth base 13, 19 m x 12,95 m
Temple I0,60m
+ Plinth base + 2,49m
Total 13,09 m
Building Plinths- faced with brick skin corners
materials: and curbs of natural stone
Walls- of burnt bricks and clay
mortar, exterior walls and
wall areas of Cella and walk-
way in brick-facing, whereas
tower interior is of simple
fired bricks;
Roofs- - tiled with t~aditional tiles;
Floors- of Cella in natural stone,
walkway in well burnt clay
tiles;
Woodwork- doors, windows, struts
of painted wood (paint
not original), beams, ra-
fters etc. of unpainted
wood.

76
M,._..._,......-;w. . . . . .r;.-. . .-.-.......
42a CHAR NARAYAN, PLAN 2 3 4 5

77
42b CHAR NARAYAN EAST-WEST SECTION M --mr;m---;ii--'"1'--mlf"-.....,
2 3 5

78
A ~

~ ~
. ~

* , , .. .
.,
~I=
l}}l
rrEiT
~ "
~

~
)'
'<I

~ lp'Y'
Q.

~ ~
11111!
~ ~

w
.,
lr1nI.I I.
*
~
l
~
I•
I• l l

1
~ Uto il
~ ~·
~
Ll lf() I c:=:J ~ ~II
~
"
lUa~ · rr~ *
A
~ .... ~

~\r11
l~ 11 ~~

~ ,/~ ~"" /~ ~
....
=~:> ~-
'].!' - 11
. r.~ :-..,__ ..~ •

\ . ~~ '\\\ \ ...
Ir

r
r r
I

4lc M ,.--~--.---.-~--.
CHAR NARAYAN FRONT ELEVATION
2 3 4 5

".
MAJU DEGA
Dedicated to· Shiva
(Stone linga)
Erected Riddhi Lakshmi, the widow of Parthi- ·
vendra Malla
Date 1690 A. D . (810 NS)
Temple type F
Three-tiered temple, of which the wall
forming the inner square of the ground
floor, co·mpri~s the Cella which, in
turn, is encircled by an outer square
of columns to form an open portico.
The ground floor is functional, but the
structure above the shrine and portico
is empty and unused.
Dimensions Ground Floor 8,44 m x 8,40 m
Plinth base 24, 90 m x 24,95 m
Elevation Temple 16, 10 m
Plinth base + 7,44 m
Total 23,54 m
Building Plinths- faced with brick skin, corners
materials: and curbs of natural stone;
Walls- .burnt bricks and clay mortar,
exterior walls and wall area
of the Cella faced with brick
sk.isl, interior of simple fired
bricks,
Floors-- Cella in natural stone, the
portico is covered with woo-
den planks;

Woodwork- Doors, windows, struts,


rafters of pafated wood,
(paint of recent origin)
posts, beams and other
wood of unpainted tim-
ber.

80
i
I i
I

43a MAJUDEGA. .-~ M I 2 3 4 s

81
43b MAJU DEGA EAST-WEST SECTION

82
' ·- ----=--====;;;!

~--l..-=---'---==-'' -- --------=-------=.c=

M,...__,.___.....,._____..
MAJU DEGA FRONT ELEVATION 3 4,
SUMMA RY

The analysis of this temple survey establishes that A comparison of the Christian church and the Mo-
there are certain basic rules of the design for temples, none hammedan mosque with the Nepali Dega reveals marked
of which, however, are strictly binding and therefore cannot differences. The former is designed to accommo<late large
be considered r ules as such . Definite preferences are congregations for mass religious services, whereas the
recognisable in the choice of plan, the structure as a whole latter is usuaJly intended for private indivi~ual worship or
and its orientation, while tht' number of roofs, the type of the Puja.
building m:,terial used or the quality of the finish seem The Puja is performed in the Cella, which, except for
irrelevant. Carvings and scu!ptures on the other hand are a few Degas, is located on the ground floor above at least
accord.ng to strictly defined canons. one plinth step ; only rarely is it below ground level.

1he Cella, often a mere one or two square metres in ·


Degas of Type Hare the most impressive because of
size, houses the image of a god only. The Puja enables
their size. They house the private gods of the -!'ings and are communion between the god in the small Cella and the
part of the palace complex. The base of these Degas is a wal-
devotee under the shelter of the Dega's roof. Even during
led square whose facade is designed to resemble a three-
. large family festivals, where animals are sacrificed, the prin-
storeyed palace wing. Like these Agamdegas, most of the
ciple of individual worship does not change, as the priest
Darbar-Square Degas which were built by kings, have been
or family elder will perform the necessary rites for the whole
raised by several plinths to give them a special prominence
. b 'Id'
a bove t he surround mg u1 mgs.
w·1th the---except1on
~ .
o
f gathering and individuals afterwards may perform theit
· . . .
· · h d f h d d own PuJa. The priests, however, do not constitute the
Ta IeJU Dega, m t e pa 1ace groun s o Kat man u, an ~ ~ . . .
. D f , b '- h. . . leaders of the congregation. Besides the feast, little com-
the Bh1msen ega o Patan s Dar ar ..,quare, t 1s 1mpress1ve . : . . . d k ·
. . . · muna1 act1v1ty 1s un erta en.
group of Degas 1s not especially popular with the people.
In contrast, it is significan t that the tiny brass shrine of the! These big festivals are held in .o pen spaces around the
Kathmandu Ganesh is by far the most frequented in Kath- ~ Degas, while the numerous resthouses or Dharmashalas in
mandu, followed by Annapurna in Asan Toi and the Seto the vicinity provide necessary shelter and protection for
Macchindranath nearby. the occasiQn. Important Degas are completely enclosed
The latter two, as well as Taleju and Pashupatinath, in .a squar~ of resthouses (e. g. Changunarayan) or·have
are also among the most ornately decorated free standing developed -into .settlements of Degas and resthouscs, as in ·
Degas. Pashupatioath.
vm
CHAPTER
-
THE PUBLIC RESTHOUSE

85
1 HF PUBLIC RESTHOUSE
lntroduttion
The names of the resthouses are systematically represen-
A building type common to all towns and villages is ted as follows :
the Dharmashala. This is the traditional Nepali resthouse
which is free of charge to the traveller. The DharmashaJa DHARMASHALA
under its different names of Sattal, Pati, Mandapa, Chapat,
to mention but a few of the Sanskrit, N~pali and Ncwari
variations, is built in many different shape~ and sizes.
SATTAL:
. Manda pa
Mandu
(Sanskrit)
(old Newari)
(new Newari)
The general term Dhannashala is applicable to all ..." ~ · .,..
Madu
Pattika (Sanskrit)
types of resthouses but today is mainly used for the rest-
.. Pati (Nepali)
houses near a place of pilgrimage, such as temples and sacred
bathing places, offering shelter particularly to pilgrims. .. Phale
Phalacha
(New Newari)
(New Newari)
These resthouses were built for practical purposes, •• Sattra (Sanskrit)
such as to give shelter to travellers and were generally " Sattal (Nepali)
donated by wealthy individuals, religious groups or families.
C'HAPAT: Chatushpatha (Sanskrit)
Sometimes these donors formed a society called a Guthi
which then became responsible for the construction and Cha pat (Nepali)
' pl-.ct:p of the building. Chapahra (Newari)

. . . ;. . . .
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44 SITE PLAN VISHNU DEVI, CHOBHAR


-A .
... TEMPLE

M ..
, ........., ....
,

DHARMA-
SHALA

~.5..,....,...........,10

86
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45 SITE PLA N NARAVADURGA, THECH4> A' M• • • • • 's • • • • 110

87
Examples

History PATI
In common with such building types as palaces, The more specific term Pa ti for a Dharmashala refers
monasteries and temples, the concept of the Nepali public to the smallest and most widely distributed of the resthouses
resthouse has its origin in the Indian pattern. which, despite il$ limited size, has similar functions to the
Sanskrit texts describing the buildings and building other types. As well as being a shelter for travellers, it
rules, mention shelter i~ the forms ofDharmashala, Marga- serves the closely interwoven Newari society living in its
shala, Mandapa and Sabha, with guiQelines on their neighbourhood, as a meeting place for games or social and
construction. religious gatherings. It is also a place where women do their
The first references to Nepali public res thouses date laundry and is even used as a barn.
ba~k to the Lichhavi period. Stone inscriptions mention The Pati, a raised covered platform is either free stan-
their existence or their construction. But no building from ding or incorporated into a residential house or attached
this period has survived. It can only be assumed that to an existing building like a lean-to and named Dupat
types such as the Pati and the Mandapa have not changed (two corner Pati).
their appearance very much. In Kathmandu, Patan and Bhadgaun hundreds of
It is the Mandapa, a covered square pavilion with open ' Patis are to be found and at least a dozen can be located in
sides on a raised platform, which seems to be the oldest of every village in the Kathmandu Valley. However, Patis
the building types described here, and the Kasthamandapa are not only found in settlements, but also occur widely at
or "wooden Mandapa" in the heart of Kathmandu appears the approaches to settlements, and dotted throughout the
to be the oldest of all the surviving superstructures. Even countryside near roads, paths and cross roads, or near wells ,
if only p~rts of the Kashthamandapa's superstructure date ponds, streams and bridges, as well as being located along-
back to the time of its first mention in the early 12th century, side temples and shrines.
it must then have already possessed a special importance,
The layout of each Pati is practically identical and
as the settlement or district, in which it is situated, derived
consists of a rectangular brick platform raised about 60 cm
its name from this Mandapa. and covered with wooden floorboards. As it is sited to
Only in the period between the end of the 16th to the over-look roads, ponds and streams the front is always of
middle of the 18th century is the Dharmashala and its a post and lintel construction. Generally the same construc-
types well defined, and some of them are surely built on tion is also used for the side walls. The rear wall is of solid
foundations of older structures, since inscriptions relating ·brickwork, returning along each side for about 30 cm, to
to them describe many repairs and reconstruction. Fur- act as a brace for the rear wall. The eaves of the purlined
. ther possible proof of their age, is their associations with roof rest either directly on the rear and side walls or the
very old structures nearby, such as waterspouts or wells. post and lintel construction, or on a sleeper wall between
It was common practice, not only to donate a water supply the ground floor and the attic, whereby an intermediate
at a suitable location, but also, to fund the. construction of storey is created, the space of which, however, is usually
ao adjacent resthouse or shelter. inacce~sible, or forms part of the roof space. This inter-
mediate, low room moreover seems to serve as a me~- exter-
nal design feature since, ·~~ iri~Jcase with otherbuildings,
With regards to the other resthouse types, there is the roof is preferably not placed directly above the func-
almost no historical information or explanation· of their tional room. In the interior, set into the rear wall, are niches
foundation . Nevertheless, if building details and carvings for idols or oil lamps. The altars, mainly dedicated to
are compared with structures of a similar age, it is possible Ganesh, are of a more recent origin. The roof of a free
that some are between 400 and 500 years old. This is parti- standing Pati is a pitched saddle roof, simple hipped roof,
cularly relevant to the Sattals of the "House Type". or lean-to roof (Pati abutting another building).

88
PLA N SECTION

~
, r
~ II a I :i 0 [ a I ~

. ., '"" ......
-=...
e

I I I I I I I I I I
I

FRONT ELEVATION SIDE ELEVATION

..
46 .. PATI, KUTI SAUGAL TOL, . Pl\TAN M-------.1 2 3

89
-

SAITAL
Sattal is the name given to a broad variety of buildina .(open halls and room divisions) and thirdly in the height
types which, at first glance, have few common features and or in the number of storeys, as well as in the resulting
generally comprise of several storeys erected over the basic structural appearance.
plan of a Manqapa, ·pati or possibly other types. This Unlike the Pati, the Sattal seems to have been built
seemingly amorphous style, for classification purposes, has not only for the transient traveller, but also for longer
been divided into three groups and detailed descriptions of sojourns for such people as Gurus and Sadhus. Needless
each of the three groups appear under the following to say, only Sattals of the house type were suitable for the
headings: latter pur;>ose, as the other tvpes are merely a ,covered plat-
a) Sattal of a two-storeyed Pati type form. _
b) Sattal of a Mandapa type The idols and shrines which have been erected in
c) Sattal of a house type. Sattals are features which, for the most part, are of a later
origin, not having been incorporated into the original design.
The most striking differences between the three types Examples of such Sattals are the Kashthamandapa and the
of Sattals are evident fir$tly in the ground floor plan which Laksbminarayan Sattal in Kathmandu and the Dattatreya
is either square or rectangular; secondly in the lay-out in Bhadgaun.

/
FRONT ELEVATION

a) Sattal of a two·storeyed Pati type


The Sundhara Sattal (Sundhara = golden water·
spout), built in 1700 A.O. by Raja Yoganarendra Malla
(1684-1705 A. 0 .) of Patan, is a two-storeyed building based
on the single storey Pati plan. A recta.ogular platform
covered with wooden planks constitutes the ground floor. • • • • • •
A small door is the only opening in the rear wall and leads
to a small Krishna and Lakshminarayan shrine. The UPPER FLOOR
front and side elevations comprise of open rows of suppor·
ting pillars. The front facade of the Sundhara Sattal features
a blind wall about half a storey in height, which internally
constitutes dead space but externally is a deliberate design
feature. Above this half-storey the open top floor is
extended on three sides by a balcony -enclosed with latticed
grilles. Two doors lead from the main room, one to the
exterior stairway, the other to the shrine of an Agamdevata
situated directly above the Krishna shrine on the ground
floor.
Some other Oharmashalas are erected in the style of
GROUND FLOOR
the Sundhara Sattal but are much longer. They are still
found at the Darbar Squares of Patao and Bhadgaun and,
most probably, quartered a part Qf the palace guard or other
military units. Each of these Dharmashala wings houses
one shrine and this shrine is distinguishable from the rest
of the building by the pinnacle (Gajur) on the ridge of the
roof. Two examples of such Dharmashalas are :
Patan Oarbar Square: Shrinivasa Malla built 1678 A.O.
the Lamo Pati (long Pati), also called Tahaphale
(big bench).
Bhadgaun Darbar Square : Jitamitra Malla built 1682
A.O. the two-storeyed Dharmashala ~ith a golden Ma·
hadev statue in the southern wing, and in the east~m SIDE ELEVATION SECTION
wing of this Oharmashala the statue of Narayan was
installed. 47 SUNDHARA SAITAL M1 11 '2 '3 14 1s

91
SECTION ELEVATION

PLAN M 1--....-......- - - - .
3 " 5

48 MANDAPA DARBAR SQUARE, PATAN

b) Sa~tal of Mandapa type It is a free standing open pavili'on, facilitating larger


The Mandapa is a square, single or several storeyed gatherings of people around or within it. It is always found
building which serves many functions similar to those of a inside settlements, !rrespective of other buildings and has
Pati ; yet it was mainly designed to be used as a community its own particular importance. One of the two Mandapas,
or reception hall. near the northern wing of the palace in Patao, used to be
the municipal weighing house, as well as the place where
market prices were fixed. Taking the design of its four cen-
tral columns into account, this Mandapa seems to be older
than its northern neighbour, the Manimandapa (or pavilion
of jewels), which was originally erected as a Sabha Mandapa
(meeting hall), and renovated in 1701 A.O. by Raja Yogana-
rendra Malla.· At the same time, a throne, made of black
s~one, was installed in it. Manimandapa was a meeting
place for priests and astrologers, and it was here that the most
favourable date for the beginning of the very popular annual
Rato Machhindranath festival, in honour of the most im-
portant deity of the Valley, was determined. The kings
of Patan were crowned in the Manimandapa and they
also made this their place for meeting with the town's
people.
Today both Mandapas have been degraded to vege-
table stalls.

92
SECTION ELEVATION SECTION ELEVATION

I
I
PLAN M- ......-2--.~
3 ~4--.'5 PLAN

49 M ANDAPA (INDRA SATIAL), KHADPU so M ANDAPA CHAIBAHI TOL, PATAN


The lndra Sattal, which was in a bad state of repair The Mandapa· of Chai Bahal Tot in Patao is the only
when surveyed, has now, with the exception of the raised other example of a two-storeyed Mandapa . Four ~olumns
platform, disappeared completely. It was, until recently, alone carry the load of the lower roof as well as that of the
the centre of the small Newari village of Khadpu (Shrikan- upper storey. The building does not seem to be older than
dapura) in the Banepa Valley. two hundred years and, therefore, is a more recent develop-
Judging from the carvings on the posts and lintels, ment of a Mandapa on a square plan.
it can be assumed that the construction of the Indra Sattal
dates back to about the 16th century.
The Indra Sattal, a raised two-storeyed building,
was set on sixteen supporting columns (Sohrakbutte) on a
brick and stone base. The inner set of columns formed the
support for the brick core, which in turn supported the~
upper floor. T he lower roof rested on a sleeper wall suppor-
ted by the outer columns and the beams projecting from the
brick core. The upper storey consisted of an open hall
with a balcony on all four sides. Four central posts and
twelve slanting struts carried the roof. Vpon a low bench,
attached to the latticed balustrade on the western side of
the bal ~ony, was where the statue of Indra was placed once
a year for worship. The upper Bo.or was not readily acces-
sible from the gro und floor with :only a few hatches in the
core of the brickwork providing access above.

93
Kasbthamandapa of Kathmandu, Manimandapa of As the Kashthamandapa has often been repaired and
Patan and Dattatreya Dega of Bhadgaun are the most statues of deities added, it is probable that its appearance
important Mandapas for the towns in which they are located has. also changed through the centuries. Nevertheless, it
because, ~ince the times of the Lichhavis, each municipality is still remarkably similar to the descriptions of Nepali
required a Mandapa as an assembly hall in order to be architecture given in the Chinese travelogues of the 7th
classified as a town. century.
The building consists of three large open halls, set
By tar the best known Mandapa is the Kashthamandapa
one on top of the other. The brick quoins of the ground
in Kathmandu. It is not only the largest Mandapa and
and first floor are not intended to divide the halis into
unique both in form and structure, but also the oldest
sections but are merely necessary part of the structural
Mandapa in the whole of the Valley.
design. Inspite of being called a Sattal and the reports
The first references to the building date back to
from the 16th century stating that the Maru Sattal was a
the 11th and 12th centruries A.O. The name Kashtha-
place for Shiva ascetics or even a temple of Gorakbnath,
mandapa (wooden Mandapa) was used in 1143 A. D. when
~e building would appear from its design to be a meeting
referring to the settlement around the building, thus indicat-
place or town hall.
ing the importance of the Mandapa and its early establish-
ment. Its construction : All the three storeys arc open hall-
The Kashthamandapa has also been known as the ways with no divisions for rooms or Cellas. In contrast
Maru Sattal (Sattal located at Maru Toi) since the 16th co the ordinary temple, the Kashthamandapa has a wide
century. Many of its supporting columns, especially the wooden stairway leading to the first floor, and a flimsy
four 7 metre high centre posts appear to be among the ladder leads to the second floor.
oldest surviving timber structures in the Valley. Whether The Kashthamandapa is erected on a base of I8.70m
these are the original posts from the 1I th century has, x l8.73m and is · 16.30m in height. Its construction
however, not been ascertained yet. demonstrates a very systematic way of the collection of
Legend has it that the timber used in the construction loads and their distribution through posts and walls to the
of the Kashthamandapa came from a single tree; and, foundations. The core of the ground floor of the building
moreover, that the Sikbamu Bahil and the Sinha Sattal is formed by four massive wooden posts, on which again the
were built from the remaining wood of the same tree, which four posts of the first floor rest. But in the second floor
is said to have stood one kilometre to the north of Maru a square of twenty posts forms the structure. Depending on
Toi near the lkha Pukhu. The available dates and descrip- the floor, there is a different grouping of columns around
tions about these buildings differ considerably. This each of t'hese cores, ~et to bear the load of the three wide
can easily .be explained in the case of the Kashthamandapa, .overhanging roofs. All three roofs are covered with the
as in the old inscriptions a single word was used which, traditional tiles, the brickwork is plastered and whitewashed
wh~n translated can mean either "to build," or "to renew". land the timber is unpainted.

94
• II e B e

Ill l!I
e e
B e
t--rfi:;=;=rr-rr-;-1
llll lllLI I

1r--:3~::!:::!:'==h'=!:::.-l::'=:!.:::1
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1E-
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e Ill Ill ae

Ill Ill Ill


llooll II II

181 181

II a
Ill • II
II

t
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5la KASHTIJAMANDAPA GROUND FLOOR ~~f--~--""""'--._,. ________


2 3 "'
. ,,

II
II

Biii Ill II

BB 111111

II Ill
• Ill

FIRST FLOOR

• •

SECOND FLOOR

Slb M,_....,.___,,_
2 --..---.4~~5
· KASHTHAMANDAPA

96
Slc KASHTHAMANDAPA SOUTH-NORTH SECTION M 2 3 4 5

97
-
5ld KASHTHAMANDAPA FRONT ELEVAHON M 3 4 5

98
Smaller in size, but no less impressive, is the Mandapa
in T-achapal Toi, in Bhadgaun, which is known today as the
Dattatreya Dega because the temple housing the idol of
Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu (Dattatreya) was later added to
the front of this Mandapa.
A stone inscription s tells us that a small shrine was
built on the spot where a famous Guru died. This sh~ine
was later enlarged as a Chapahra (or Chapat) by King
Yaksha Malla (1428-1482 A.D.). Regmi states that King
Yaksha Malla "elevated the temple of Dattatreya". 6 Later
Viswa MaDal built a three-~toreyed temple for Dattatreya ...
and madeit over to Sannyasis, for whose residence be built
a Math.7
It is this building which gives the town district its
name : Tachapal Toi (Tachapal : Taha Chapahra = big
resthouse). Tachapal Toi containing nine Maths, five
temples, several wells, ponds and waterspouts, and one
courtyard called Vanalayku (forest palace) forms the centre
of the northern half of Bbadgaun (see chapter YI on Math).

BACK E~fiVAT IO_N

..
PLAN SECTION
52 M~:....-.1m111. ...-~.S![mll.......,,......~~o
DATTATREYA (SATTAL)

99
A

A
GROUND FLOOR

c) Sattal of house type


The Laksbminarayan Sattal is a good example of a
building that has lost both its original function and name.
This has been caused partly by the addition of shrines and
also by its use for religious functions over the centuries.
. Similar to the Dattatreya Dega, this combination of a
hou~type Sattal and a temple, is not the original design,
as the temple was added later.
FIRST FLOOR
The foundation date of its original structure is
unkno~n, although it appears to have been built in the 16th
century. The ground floor, which is raised on a 50 cm high
platform consists of rectangular rooms (two shrines and two
storage room~), with an open verandah on fout si.des, interup--
ted on the north s ide by the more recently· built temple.
The core of the middle storey consists of a central
room, with two rooms to the north, which are part of the
im.: ~~11
temple structure.· ·

' ··· The central room on the top floor is extended on four
L •• .•
iides by a balcony. The north wall, supporting the attics
of the Sattal and temple alike, is unperforated while the three SECOND FLOO R
remaining sides, except for the brick-quoin supports, are
double rows of supporting pillars. A wide hipped roof
covers the building. !Ja LAKSHMINARAYAN SATTALIM• 1 '2 '3 '4 's

100
- -- ~ ~ -~

I
C" -;:.;i
c.J ._, L J ~D '-:i
,_ _.__..__..._,.,__iiiil
L ~ _..: :::l

SOUTH ELEVATION NORTH ELEVATION

- ... .
EAST ELEVATION WEST ELEVATIOt.

A-A SECTION
..
5.lb LAKSHMINARAYAN/SAITAL M• 1
1 '2 J '% 's.

101
CHA PAT
FRONT ELEVATION

The origi.nal function of the Chapat (Chatushpatha ==


four-cornered Pati) remains unclear. Two Chapats located
in Patan differ so widely that a uniform description is im-
possible. The Chapat does not seem to have been intended
as a resthouse for wanoerers generally, but rather as a com- .. I a I I

munity l)Jlll where a particular group of people living


locally can meet to organise festivals, dance and drama, 1-- ..
meetings and lectures. 1 I UPPER FLOOR
IL ___ jI
. Th~ two-storeyed Cbapat of Dupat Toi in Patao,
facing in a southerly direction, measures approximately
24 me.tres' long by 5.S metres wide. The Pati-like front
section of the ground fioor takes up half the ground floor
space, while the remainder consists of three small rectangu'-
. lar rooms used for storage.
A broad stone stairway leads to the upper floor, which
is an open ·hall with a bakony on one side, overlooking GROUND FLOOR

the square. The purlined roof, above the unused attic, is


covered with traditional tiles. The brickwork and wood-
work is simply executed. Some two dozen niches, set in
the walls, are used for oil lamps, while a larger niche in the
eastern wall houses statues of deities.
Even if today no one can recall the original use of the
Chapat, its construction explains that it was not intended
...fer extended stays. The great number of niches for oil
0

lamps, the broad stairs and open hall on the upper floor SIDE ELEVATION A-A SECTION
suggest that the Chapat served mainly for large gatherings
such as a school or meeting place for the local populace.
Even today the Chapat of Dupat Toi is used as a school.
54' CHAPAT DVPAT TOL, PATAN 14 I""""!"'--

102
CHAPTER IX

BUILDING DETAILS

103
BUB.DING DET~

latrodlldloa
Although building styles are outlined separately in
the previous chapters it is possible, however, to unite them
when describing their construction and details.
General building proportions and details are quite
. ~imilat to each other, both internally and externally, parti-
~ularly when relating the dimensions of building elements-
such as doors, windows, walls, posts and beams. Further.
more, a true uniformity exists in building materials, espe-
cially brick, tiles, clay and timber and the way they arc used,
which makes it relatively easy to describe in general the basic
and common construction details of the traditional buildings
of the Kathmandu Valley.
Unless specified in the text all building terms are given
in Newari as this is the language from which nearly all
building terms are derived.
Brictwork : Foadatloa and Walls
The basic foundations (Jags) of small temples, dweM
ings, monasteries etc. generally consist of a few layers of
natural stone (large pebbles oi broken stone); this is fol-
lowed by brickwork which gradually attains the wall...thick-
ness of the ground floor and which continues into the super-
structure without any damp proof layer. Despite the poor a ·: .
_.
.
.
<

quality of the soil in most parts of the Valley, the foundations


of one to four-storey buildings are not much deeper than
60-80 cm and 'wider than 70 cm. The plinths (Newari :
Pha, Nepali : Peti) in front of houses and palaces, which'
appear as part of the foundation, are neither load bearing
nor intended as foundations. They extend in front of the
raised ground floor brickwork as a protection against
damp penetration and to give the appearance of lifting the
building above road level. In the same way stepped plinths
not only serve as protection against flooding, but more im-
portant, as a striking architectural feature in Newari buil-
dings and for the agrandisement of certain temples. Nyata-
pol temple in Bhadgaun is set on a very high stepped plinth
structure of five levels; Taleju temple in Kathmandu is
set on twelve relatively ·shallow plinths in order to raise this
temple to the same altitude of the Taleju temples in Bhadgaun
and Patao. The structure of these stepped plinths is as
yet unknown. It has not been ascertained whether Nyata- cm..-•,-o._.,.....,.....,.50
pol temple or Taleju temple stand on a huge masonry square
filled with soil, or upon a hillock of trodden soil which is SS SECTION THROUGH WALL, FOUNDATION A:ND
circumscribed by stepped plinths of brickwork. PLINTH

104 '
Despite the extremely high standard attained in the the slanting roof struts is formed·-by different proJe<:tmg
art of brick firing, the quality of the brickwork and, as a . carved timbers and two or three layers of projecting moulded
result, the structure of the buildings iS/ swprisingly weak. bricks (Karnes Appas), which overlap at the corners of the
which can only be attributed to the fellowing reasons-·: buildings to become an important · decorative buildil)g ·
the use of mud mortar; poor bonding between the facing element. Wall thicknesses vary considerably and th~~e ~
brickwork and the backing brickwork ; di~erences in si1.e • seems to be no standard dimensions, generally thicknesses
beween the face brick and the standard brick and the range between 28 and 70 cm, but the walls of some temples
fact that walls meeting at right angles are seldom tied in. and certain palace buildings tend to be much th,icker, often
Many different types of bricks '(Nepali : Int, Newari : up to 2 metres. ··
Appal were used, depending on the financial standing of The brick joints are kept to a minimum thickness so
the owner or the importance of the building. f'or palaces, that the clay mortar can not be easily washed away by rain.
temples, monasteries, public resthouses and the houses of This is very apparent in the brick facing, where the bricks
the rich, e.<.temal facing bricks cover simple brick masonry. are wedge shaped and, therefore, brick edge adjoins brick
Specially moulded bricks are used for decorative window edge on the outer or visible face and the mortar is mostly
~nd door lintels. T~e cornice. supporting the lower end of hidden within. The fine lines between the edges of these
bricks were often sealed with a mixture of oil (Tel), resin
(Saldup) and red earth (Sindur).
The bricks used for the various types of construction.
are : Kachi Appa, which is merely a sun-dried brick and not
very durable ; Appa, which is a fired brick of crude quality ;
Chikan Appa, which is the slip glazed facing brick, that is
0

shaped and fired with care and accuracy. (The Nepali word
for this brick is Teliya Int, meaning oil brick, and it is
often claimed that this brick was treated with oil before
firing in order to achieve a smooth glazed surface. This is
unlikely as the oil would be burnt off immediately the ·
brick is fired and, therefore, cannot possibly contribute to
the glaze.) Square tiles, also known as Chikan Appas were
produced in the same manner as the facing bricks. They
were us:-~ fo r paving plinths, for inner courtyards and for
CORNICE DETAIL cm -'"!'lo~2~
o "'1!3_o '°
__ So floors and open squares
--
105

r.-~·:·J:~:--I:.·?:''~:::·:{.< ·. ~:-~
ELEVATION SECT-ION I 5ECTION II

57 ASSEMBLY OF POSTS, LINTELS AND BEAM~ cm• I I I I '50

1- Ilohan
2- Lakansin
3- Than
4- Meth
5- Nina
6- Dbalin
Posts, Lintels and Beams 7- Sa
Single or double rows of posts support the upper
brickwork, where an opening is required for design reasons, Never have stone or brick pillars been u~ in place
or. because of the usage of space behind. Tf the front or of wooden posts· for the construction of open hallways or
back load bearing wall of a dwelling is removed in order porticos in traditional Newari building types described in
to provide a shop or a workshop, a double row of posts is the book. Usually a dressed natural stone (Hoban) or a
used. • These openings between the posts can be shut by · wooden threshold (Lakansin) supports the wooden post
inserting planks between grooves along the outer row of (Than) and wooden bracket (Meth) which transport the load
posts. In some temple types and in resthouses the upper ·, from the lintel (Nina) and beams (Dhalin) on to the posts.
brickwork is usually supported by a single row of posts . A long peg (Sa), extending from the post, passes through
to provide an open sitting and resting area around the Cella. the bracket into the beam and holds the three structural
· Similarly in courtyards of palaces, monasteries and dwellings, elements in position. The upper half of the posts and the
inward facing walls of the ground floor are arcaded so as to brackets are intricately carved, whereas the beams and sole
provide porticos for different.uses. plates are generally without decoration.
A B c

D
M,...__,...__,...__ ,_.~2

POOR TYPES

Doors aoor 1s ot" type A and is generally used in dwellings. The


The several different types of doors (Newari : Lukha, standard and most commonly used door is of type B and
Nepali : Dhok.a) are all relatively similar in their design used particularly in monasteries. Doors of type C are
and in their size of opening. In dwellings, monasteries and common to almost all temples and priest houses. Type
many temples the access doors do not exceed 70 x 160 cm; D is merely a composite of type B and C made up into one
but entrances to the inner courtyards of palaces are large unit and used in several big temples.
more gate-like. The majority of buildings, therefore, can City gaces or large palace doors are called in Newari
only be entered in a bent position which puts a would-be "Tadhan Lukha" which means "Large Door". Openings
intruder at a distinct disadvantage. The entrances are in city gates or former defences were only slightly larger
closed by massive double doors and are fastened on the than the ordinary Lukhas as the foundation stones show.
inside by a large wooden bolt and on the outside, when the The city gates, still standing at the entrance to Certain
building is unoccupied, by heavy iron locks. settlements, arc of more recent origin but are built on ancient
Generally, the doors (Dhokas) consists of an interior foundations.
frame (Duchu) and an exterior frame (Bila) which are jointed Many doors which lead to a snrine have a pediment
together by four wooden ties (Tas) and pinned together or Torana (a) fixed to the upper frame as decoration and
with wooden nails (Chukus). . emphasis. Carvings around the door frame a'ld in the
The most important difference is the overall size of Torana arc always related to the god to which the shrine is
the doors and their extent of decoration. The simplest dedicated.

107
Windows
The design and construction of windows, in parti<:ular,
has become an important focus for displaying the finesse
of Newari art, both in the external design and artistry
of the window, as well as in the skilled joinery work used
in the construction of the window.
Similar to the doors, the windows (Jhyas) are pieced
together from many prefabricated units of varying shapes
and sizes and assembied without the use of either metal
fixings or glue. Each window consists of two frames, the
inner plain frame lDuchu) always being larger than the
outer richly carved frame (Bha) and both are held together
by wooden ties and wooden nails. The latticework or
jalousie of the window is not achieved by boring holes into
a plank as generally supposed but by combining three dif-
ferent battens : the perforated batten, the serrated batten and
the key batten. The lattice produced is pressed into the
prepared frame and cannot be disassembled without
dismantling the entire frame.
Four basic window forms exist :

Jnya of eype A (Chhapa Jhya) which consists of a Tiki Jhyas of type C are found to the right and
heavy frame with from one to five very small openings. left of San Jhay or Gaa Jhya. They may consist of a simple,
This type is found mainly in the Vihara. plain frame with simple latticework or of an intricately
carved frame and lattice.
Jhya, which is the simplest and also the most recent
form {Type 0 ) is generally 1.50 m high and 80-90cm wide,
Tiki Jhya is tne overall term for windows with a
latticework of type C. However, as all ancient facades
-
provides much light and air and is used in dwellings only.
The windows of temples with square ground ftoor
\

have a sym•netrical design with different window types and plans are often decorative rather than functional, since the
window sizes in particular locations, and as each floor tower containing these windows can never be entered and
level or each particular building requires a different window there are often no openings in the brickwork behind
design, the Tiki Jhya has been subdivided into the following the windows of type B (Ga Jhya). The same applies to the
groups: Tiki Jaya of Nos C I (Sanjhya) and C2 (Ga Jhya) are small blind windows on both sides of the doors of temples
found only on the axis of a facade, always beneath the roof, and monasteries.
and they arc the showpiece of the building. The Ga Jhya Of particular interest are the lattice windows, of storey
projects outwards on to the roatl and a small bench occupies height, set between the slanting roof struts of temples,
the pr~jection. The Jhya 'is found in dwellings, palaces, monasteries, and public resthouses which encircle the
Hindu monasteries and occasionally in Buddhist monas- building like a honeycomb.
teries and temples.

108
A

A
·:tumm1c C-0 D.

J11~1c
A
Cl

C2

. :Jir ]•[
c

59 WINDOW TYPES M 1 2

109
ROOFS
The most striking of architectural features in tradi-
tional Newari buildings, are the huge projecting roofs
(Newari: Pau, Nepali : Chhana) set one above another on the
temples. They protect the walls of brick and mud mortar
from the powerful monsoon rains and strong sunlight. The
overhang in the case of dwellings, is generally of about 1 m,
in the Vihara l.S m is usual and in temples one often finds
overhangs of up to 4 ·m.

60 SECTIONS SHOWING TYPICAL ROOF DETAILS cmi 1 1 1 1 15o ~00

· The design and details of the roof construction and now enclosed in the roof space, and the roof plate (Nas)
roof covering arc basically the same in all buildings. Pit- rests either on an eaves structure or on slanting struts
ched roofs are of a purlincd construction, with the only (Tunals). Wooden nails '{Chukus) keep the various com·
difference that the rafters (Musins) of the topmost roof of ponents in place. Rafters (Musins) and even floor
a temple meet at a point on a central post {Than). The beams (Dhalins), are set at intervals of 10 cm to 15 cm,
ridge piece (Ohuri) rests on a row of simple vertical po~ts depending on the rafter or beam sections, and are normall.r•
(Dhuri Thans). The wallplatcs (Nases) rest on low sleeper laid flat.
walls that arc an extension of the lower wall struct~re,_
·-

~ c

ROOF TILES cm lo So
61

of type C (Kopus and Gogochas) and valleys of type D


The roofs of dwellings, palaces, resthouses, monas· (Dokuns) as well as for the provision of light and venti-
tcrics and the greater majority of temples are covcrd with lation of type F (Bhauwa<1). The corner at the junction of
special tiles of type B (Ncp. : Djingati, New : Aenpa). the eaves is emphasized by a corner tile (Kunpa) most
Only in some cases do the temples have either the top roof often designed in the shape of·a bird. The special feature
or all roofs covered with metal, generally copper, instead of the upper most roof of the temples is the pinnacle (Gajur)
of tiles. Horizontal wooden planks, split bamboo or ftat, which is bell-shaped and made of burnt clay or gilded
grooved tiles of type A (Cbola Apas) are placed over the sheet copper.
rafter on ~op of which is laid a 4cm to lOcm layer of
clay into which the Djingatis, with an overlap of almost The kind of tiles used for all building types is uniform
two-thirds, are pressed. Special tiles arc used for ridg~ in shape but often different in size.

111
NOTES
Chapter I 1. Giuseppe, Father, " Account orthe Kingdom of' Nepal". A.rlatkk ~. D,
Loodon 1807, page 308.
l. Kirkpatrick. An accoWlt or the Kingdom or Nepaul. London 1809, pqo 163.
3. Wript, David. History of' Nepal Camdridae 1877, pige 79.
4. Hasrat B. J., History or Nepal. Hoshiarpur 1970, page Jal.
5. Wriaht, op . cit., pp. 83, ~l, 113.
6. Ibid, pp. 124-126.
7. Levi, Sylvain, Le Nepal. P~ 1905-1908, p. 71.
8. Wri&ht, op . cit., p. 135.
9. Ibid, 163.
10. Ibid, 153.
11. Vajracharya, O., :•Yangal Yambu". Colltrlbution.r to NepakM Studlu, Vol. I, No. 2,
1974, pp. 90-92.
Chapter II · 1. Vajracharya op. ell., p. 90.
2. Ibid, 238.
3. Wript, op. cit., 188.
0

4. R.egmj, D. R., Moclieval Nepal. Calcutta, l~, Vol. II, p. 359.


5. Ibid, Vol. II, 295.
6. Giuseppe, op. cit., p. 13.
7. Kirkpatrick, op. cit., pp. 1J, S4.
8. Hamilton, F . B., An Ac:countorthe.KiagdomnrNepaJ. Edinburgh, 1819, p. 201.
9. Regmi, op. cit., vol. II, pp. 462, 773.

Chapter m 1. Giweppe, op . cit., p. 308


2. Wright, op. cit., pp. 183-84.

Chapter IV 1. Wright, op. cit., pp. 87-170.


2. Regmi, op. cit., vol. I, p. 559.
3. WriJht, op. cit., 115.
4. Reami• op. cit., vol. I, p. 561.
Chapter V 1. Translation liven by R. B. Giri, &-Mahanta or the Pujahari Math.
2. Wriaht, op. cit., 190

Chapter VI t. Wright, op. cit., 134.


2. Regmi, D. R.., Ancient Nepal. Calcutta, 1960, p. 238
3. Wript, op. cit., pp. 83, 99, 112, 124, 133.
4. Rqmi, op. cit., pp. 238-39. .
5. Jha H. M., The Liccavis. Varanasi, 1970, p. 163.
6. Wright, op. cit., p. 140.
7. Regmi, D. R. Modern Nepal. op. cit., vol. I., pp. 183, 186.
8. Shalcya, Hemraj, Medieval Nepal. Kathmandu, 1970, p: 24.
9. Regmi, op. d t., vol. II, p. 356.
10. Wright, op. cit., p. 177.
11. Repli, op. cit., vol. II, p. '229
12. Ibid, vol. 11, p. 79.

] 13
Chapter VII 1. Regmi, D. R. Ancient Nepal, op. cit., p. 238.
2. Wright, op. cit., p. 92.
3. ibid, p. 156.
4. ibid, p. 162.
5. Regmi, D. R. Medieval Nepal, op. cit., vol. Il, p. 247
6. Wright, op. cit. p. 210.
7. Regmi, op. cit., vol. II, p. 877
8. Ibid, Vo~. II. p. 877.
9. Wright, op. cit., pp. 183, 245.

Chapter VIII 1. Shakya,op.cU., p. 189.


2· Wright, op. cit., p. 248 .
3. ibid, p . 192.
4. ibid, p. 247.
5. Translation given by R. B. Girl.
6. Regmi, op. cit., vol. II, p. 437.
7. Wright, op . cit. p. 190.

114
BIBLIOGRAPHY
(a) Primary Sourcu
Giuseppe, Father "Account of tlie Kingdom of Nepal,"
Asilltick Rerearches, Vol. 11, pp. 307-322, London, 1807.
Reprinted in Delhi. 1970
Hamilton, P. B. An Account of the Kingdom of Nepal.
Edh,burgh, 1819, 366 pp. Reprinted as Volume 10, Series I
of Bibliotheca Himalayica, New Delhi, 1971
Haarat, B. J. History ·o r Nepal.
Hoshiarpur, 1970, 354 pp.
Jba, H. N. The Licchavis.
Varanasi, 1970, xiv+248 pp.
· Kirkpatrick, Col. F. An Account of the Kingdom of NepauJ.
London, .1800~. 386.pp.. . .
Reprinted as Volume 3, Series I, of Bibliotheca Himalayiea,
New Delhi. 1969.
Le~, Sylvain Le Nepal.
3 vols. Paris 1905-1908, 395+411 +224 pp.
Regmi, D. R. Ancient Nepal.
Calcutta, 1960. xiv+214 pp.
Regmi, D. R. Medieval Nepal .
4 vols. Calcutta, 1~65-66. xvi+ 764; xii+ 1080; viii+ 156;
360+44 PPI I

Shakya, Hemraj Medieval Nepal.


Kathmandu, 1970, xxvi+243 pp.
Shakya, Hemraj Patan Durbar Square. (In Nepali)
Patan, 1974. 32 pp.
Vajracharya, D. Licchavikalka Abhilekha.
Kirtipur, · 1973 . 614 pp.
Vajracharya, G . "Yangal Yambu"
Contributions to Nepalese Studie$, Vol. I, No. 2, pages 90-98.
Kirtipur, 1974.
Wright, D. History of Nepal.
Cambridge, 1877, XIV+324. Reprinted Kathmandu, 1972.

llS
(b) Secondary Sources
Auer,, Gerhard and Bhaktapur.
Gutschow, Niels Darmstadt, 1974, 136 pp.

Berniier, Ronald M. · The Temples of Nepal.


Kathmandu, 1970.

Brown, Percy Picturesque Nepal. -


London, 1912, xvi+ 205 pp.

HMG of Nepal The Physical Development Plan for the Kathmandu Valley.
Kathmandu, 1969, 196 pp.

Jacoll>sen, Werner "Nepal".


Arkitekten, No. 5, Copenhagen, 1969 (pp. 89-114 about the
village of Bungamati)

Lancilon, Perceval Nepal. 2 vols.


London, 1928 (Vol. II, pp 256-271 contains notes on archi-
tecture). Rep{inted as VoL 16, Series I of Bibliotheca Hima~ /
layica, Kathmandu, 1976.

Nepali, Gopal Singh The Newars.


Bombay 1965, Xl+476 PP·

Oldfiield, H. A. Sketches from Nepal. ·


2 Vols. London, 1880, vii + 418; 364 pp. Reprinted, New
Delhi, 1974.
Sanday J. The Hanuman Dhoka Royal Palace Kathmandu. Building Con-
servation and Local Traditional Crafts. London, 1974, 20 pp.
Thapa R. J . Ancient Nepal, No. 3
Kathmandu, 1968 . .(pp. 33-48 on Kasthamandapa)

Tribhuvan University An introduction to Hanuman Dhoka,


Instiitute of Nepal Kathmandu, .1975, viii+58 pp .
and Asian Studies

• • •

116
INDEX

A. Index of Settlem~nts, ~aces and Buildings [)arbar Squar~ 50,57,91


Dathu Math 40.4 1
Adinath 13 Dathu Toi 56
Aenpa 111 Dattatreya 40,4 1,42,43,44,90,94,99, I00
Agamchhen 55 Di Math 43
Agamdega 84 Djalling Math 40
Agamdevta 65,67, 72,9 1
Ajanta 26 Godavari Math 41
Amarapura 8 Go!madhi Toi 8, 12
Appa 105
11:.1 Cha uk 58
Assam xvi, xviii
Astamangal 6 Jangam Milth 41
Krishna 57. 59
Bha 107,108
\
Ku mari Cha'°'k 57
Bagmati 7,9
Lamo Pati 91
Baha 26
Bahal 26,27,30,34,36,37,52,53,56 Makhonprindranga 12
Baha l-Bahil 34,36 Malati Chauk 58, 59
Ba hi 26 Mui Chauk 58, 59
Bahil 26,27,28,30,34,36,37
Nag Pokhari 58, 59
Bahira 26
Nakhachhen-Tava-Gol- Kwath 58
Baisi xviii
Narayan 59
Bajreswari 7
Nyatapol 4,56,67, 104
Balambu 8,12
Balkumari 68, Pashupatinath 57, 59
Balmikina,gara xvii Pujahari Math 40,41 ,42,43,44,45,46,47
Balupwa 4.:> Purano Chota Math 41 •
Banepa. Valley xviii, ,89,93
Sad.ishivadeva Chauk 59
Banepur 9
Shiva 57, 59
Baneswara 6,53
Siddhi Chauk 58
Bansbari 43
Siddhi Lakshmi 59
Bhadga1,1n (B'hatgan, Bhatgong, Bbalttapur)
Sithu Math 40,41
xviii, xix, 3,4,5,6,7,8,9, 13, 14,36,37,88
Sukuldhoka Toi 57
as
Sundari Chauk 57, 58
Bhaktagrama 9
Sun Dhoka 1,3,58
Khopo Desha 9
Khopringrama 9 Tachapal l'ol 40, 41 , 44, 99
Khuprimbruma 9 Taja Math 40,41
Taleju 57,58
Bardalighar Math 40,43 Taumadi T oi 4, 41, 57
Bhairav Chaulc 57,58,59 Tipura 58
Bbairav temple 4, 5, 7 Tulachhen Toi 8
Bhandapukhu Chauk 59
vasantapur Chauk (Darbar) 58, 59
Bhandarkhal 52,55,62
Vat3ala 59
Chikanphale Math 41 Vatsala Durga 59

- 117
Bhairavtcmpte 6 Dharmashala 8.42.57,59,84.86,87,88,91.
Bbandarkbal S2 Dhaukel 9
Bbauwa 111 Dhavalasrotapura 8
Bbimpbedi 14 Dhoka 7,107
Bhimsen 41 D~ulikhel 8,9
Bbringeshvar 67 Uhur1 110
Bhutan xvi ·Dhuri Than 110
Bihar 27 Ojingati 111
Binappa 8 Ooladri 8
Bisbalnagara 6, 8 Ookun 111
Buddha Nilkantha 6,62 Dranga 12
Bugama 7 DuAna 22
Bugayumi 8 Duchu 107,108
Bu-Kham 27 Durga 1~
BungaDega S Ourbar 6,8,9. '°IO,S3
Bunaamati S,8 Dupat 88
Buya Vihara 26 Dyochhen 72 .

Cha Bahil 26,37 Elora 26


Chaitya 6,8,7
. Cbampapuri 8 GaJhya 108
Chandeshvari 9,67,68 GaaJhya 108
1Chandeswari Pitha 9 Gajur(Gaju) 28,~,34,36,61,66,72.91, 111
Changu 8
Galli 3,19
Changunarayan 16,67,68,84
Galli bhita1 19
Chapagauri S,8,68 uandak1 river xvii, xviii
Chapahra 86,99 Ganesh DeP, .62,67,73
Cbapat 86,99, 102 Ganges xviii ·
Chatushpatha (Resthouse) 86, 102 · Garbhagriha 66 •
(Crossway) 7 Ghar 13,40,42,44
Chaubisi xviii Ghat S,7,44
Cbauk 18,36.40,S I .S2,S4,SS,S6.60,6 I Ghatastapana 47
Chaukot 9 Gokarna 53
Chhana 110
Gol 7
ChhapaJhya 108 Gongocha 111
Chhusya Bahal 30. 31. 32.33 Gorkha xix, 13,14
Chhyadi 22 Grama 12
Chikan Appa 44, 105 Gramadranga 12, 13
Chisopani (Cheespana) 14 Guhjeswari 6
Chobhar 5 Gvala 8
Chola Apa 111 Gwakhanpwa 23
Chota 23
Chuku 10-7.110 Hadigaun 12.67
Halchok 67
l>alan 30,34,44,5 I Halchok Bhairav 67
Darbar 6,9,50 Harasiddhi 5,67,68
Davali 7 Himalaya xvi. xvii
Dega 66, 67,68,69, 70. 71, 72. 73.84 Hitigvara 13
Oevagriha 66
. Dhalin 106,110 lchangu 67
Dhane3wari 9 lchangu Narayan 67
Ohara 7.8.9

118
lkhsumat1 6,SJ GaddhibaithaJc 60,62 .
llohan 106 Gunakara Mahavihara 30
India xviii, xh. 40.44
Indra Satlal 93 Hanuman Dhoka 50,60,61,62·
lndreshvar Mahadcv 67 Hnutachhen Chauk 61 ,62 ·
Int IOS lkhapukhu 14,94
ltum Bahal 36
Jag 104
J aisideval S
Jagannath 61,62,67
JuddhaSaddak 16,60162
Jaling. 43
Jyatha Toi 30
Jammu xvi
Janakpur xv11 Kashthamandapa I0,S0,62,67,88,90,95.96.91
Jhyal (Jhya) 108
Jitpur 43
Kathmandu Ganesh
' ..
67 68 84
Kathmandu Valley (also Nepal Valley, the
Valley) ui, xvii, id~, 3,S,6,7,8,13,14,26,
Kachi Appa IOS. 60,61,62
Kailaskuta IJhavana ·SJ Kavindrapu~ 62
Karnes Appa IOS Khwa Bahal 30
Kashmir xvi Kirtipur tower 61,62
Kathmandu 3,4,S,6,8,9, 12,14,36,37,S0,60,88 Krishna'Mandir 61
as Lakshminarayan Sattal 62.90.100.10 I
Oaks hinakoligrama 10, l 2 Lakshmivilas 61
Kantipur 9, 10 Lalitpur tOWCf 61.62
Koligrama 9,10 lamoChauk 61,62
Korie 10 Lohan Chauk 60,61,62
Mahanagara S,7,10,12 Maju Dega ·61,80,81,82;83
Suvamapranali Kantipura 9,10 Makhan Galli S
Yambu 10,12 Makhan Toi S,10,60.
Yambukrama 10 Maru Bahil 37
Yambumahanagara 10 Marud.hoka Toi 16
Yan 9 Maru Ganesh 67-
Ya~gal 10,12 Maru Sattal 62,94
Yangal Kashthamandapa 9 Muu Toi, 60,67,94
Yindishi 10 Masan Chauk .60,61 ,62
Agamchen 61,62 Mohan Chauk 60,61,62
Asan Toi 84 MulChauk 60,61,62
Albokavinayak 62 Musya Bahal 30 ·
Bangla Mandir 61 Nag Pokhari 62
Bhaktapur tower 61,62 Narayan 61 ,62
Bhandarkhal 62 Narayan Hiti SO
Bhimsensthan S Narayan Pokhari 62
Nasa Dega 61 .
Chetrapati 14 Nasal Chauk 60,61,62
Chhalaku Toi 16 Nautale 61
O_akha Chauk 61,62.
Pan<:hamukhi Hanuman 61 ,62
Dakshina Toi 10
Parbar Square 4,50 Seto Bhairav 60
Dathu 10 8eto Macchindranath 13,36,68,84
Degutaleju 61,62 Shiva 62
Sikanmugal Bahal 62

119
0

Sikhamu Bahil 94 Lompatha Math 43


Sinha Dhoka 62 Lubhu 5,16 ·
Sinha Sattal 62,94 Lukha 107
Lulchachhen Toi, Patao 20 (under Patan)
Sundari Chau le 57,60,61,62
Lumbini xvii
Tadhan Babat 26
Tadhanlol 3,26 Mackwaapur 13
Ta.leju 61 ,62-,84,104 Madu 86
Tana Bahal 62 Madhyalakbu 8,53
TavaDega 62 Madhyapwa 8
TeBahal 36 Mahuraghar 44
Thane 10 Maka 23
Trailokya Mohan 62 Makara 53
Triratna Vihara 26 Mandapa 8,5S,S6,86,88,90,92,93,94,99
Trishul Chauk 61,62 · Mandie 66
Tundikhel 60 Mandu 86
Manjupattan 6,S3
Umamaheshvar 16,67
Margasbala 88
Uttara Toi 10
Matan 22
VasantapurTower 60,61 Math 40,41 ,42,43,44,45,47,99
Vikrama Sila Vihara 26 Meth 106
Vilas Mandir 61 ~uktinatha Kshctra xvii
Musin 110
Kerung xvi
Khadpu 93 Nagara 12
Khokana 2,5,68 NaJcsal 8
I. Khopasi 8 Nala 8,9
Kipu 8 Nata Bhagvati 9
Kirtipur S,8,13, 14 Nalanda xviii
Kisipindi 8, 12 Nalangrama 8
Kolachhen Toi 3 Narayan temple 74,75
Kopu I 11 Nas 110
Kosi (river) xvii Nasapwa 4S
Kotha 51 Nasika Pitha 9
Kotilingeshvar 62 Nepal xvi, xvii, xviii, 27,50
Kotwal 6 Nilishala 8.
Krishna.91 Nina(Nidal, Nidasin) 106
Kshonitpura 8 Nyphala p
Kuldega 67,72
Kunpa I ll Padma6
Kurpasi 8 Padmakar 6
Pagoda xix, 66
Kurrurbuna(Kurrurbuona) 14
Panauti 9,12,43,67
Kuti xvi
Kwath 13,16 Panavati 9
Panchala-des 9
Lajimpat 8,62 Pashupati (Pashupatinath) 6, 12.66,67,68.84
Lakansin I06 Patan xviii 3,4,S,8,9,36,37,88
Lakshminaraya n 41,91 as
Layku 50.62 Deupatan (Deva Patan) 6,7,8,26,53
Lele 8
Lalitakrama 8
Lembat i~rama 8 Lalitapattana(Lalita-pattana;Lalit-patan)
Lhasa 27 5,8,9,S3.
Lompatha Mahadev Math ~3

120
Lalitapura (Lalitpur) 8 Mani-linga 8
Lalitbruma 8 Mani-Mahakala 8
Lelit Pattan 5, 14 Manimandapa (Mani-Mandapa) 8,55,92
Yala 8 Mui Chauk 55,56
Yellai 8
Narasinha 55
Yellodeshi 8
Narayan 9,55
Yupagrama 8
Nauddha (Kacha) Babat 34,35
Yupagramadranp 12
Nauddh.a Tol 34 -
Agam dega 50 · P~nchapuri 55
Bhandarkhal 55 Patan Dhoka 16
Bhimsen SS,84 Pinta Bihar 27
Biscshvara SS Pintu Bahil 28,29 .

Chaibahi Toi 93 Rato Macchindranath 13


Chakra Vihara 26 Saug~I tot 20,67
Char Narayan 55,67,73,76,77,78,79· Shiv~ 5S
Chaukvatha 55,56,61 Shri Derdutta Mahavihara 34
Parbar Square 50,53,54,57,91 Shri Gopichandra M~havihara 28
Digutale temple 50,54.55 Sundari. Chauk 51,52,55,57
Dunta Bihar 27 Sundhara Sattal 91
DupatTol 102 Taleju 55,56, 104
GaBahal 56 Tusa Hiti 51 ,55

Ha ~alial 56 Vishnukhsha Vihara 26


.Hakhusi Babat 56 Vishvanath 55
Harishankar 55
P a ti 5,86,88,89,90,91,92, 102
Hema-barna-Vi hara 26
Pattika 86
lkhachhen Toi 28 Patuka 53
Pau 110
Kacha Bahal 27
~ti '104
~eshar Narayan Chauk 55,56
Pha 104
Ko Bahal Tol 18 I
Ph.alacha 27,30,36,86
Kontibahi Bihar 27
Ph.ale 86
Krishna(Mandir) 55
Pharping 8
Kumbheshvar 13, 16,67
Pith 72
Kuti Saugal Tol 89
Po.lthari 58,62
Lakshmikalyanavarmasanskrit Shriratnakara Prakatapakvatha 13
Mahavihara 56 Prayaga Tirtha 9
Lalibana Bihar 27
1tanivan 62
Mahabauddha 34
M angal Bajar 12,53 Sa 106
Mani-bhatta 8 Sabha Mandapa 88,92
Mani-chaitya 8 Saldup 105
Mani-dhara 8 Sali Ganesh Math 43
Manigal-Bbatta 8,53 Sanga 9
Mani Ganesh (Mani-Gan~ha) 8,55 San Jhya 19,20,23,108
Mani Hiti 55 Sankasyanagari 6,53
Mani Jogini 8 Sankha Mula Tirtha 53
Mani-Kumara 8 Sankhu 5,8

121
Santanesbvar (Mahadev) 16,68 T~rana (Tolan Toru;), 6,30,36,72, 107
Sa.tra 86 Tunal 110
Sattal 50,86,88,90,91,92,94,100 Vagmati 7
Sat~ngal 8, l 2 Vaishali xvii
Satvanavagrarna 8 Vaishnavara Jvalakshetra xvii
Satyanarayan 67 Vajrajogjni 5,13
Shahar 19 Vajrava.r ahi 5,68
Shankaradeva 8 Vanalayku 4f,99
Shikhara 54,55,59.•61 ,62 Vi hara 6,9, 12, l 8,26,27,j4,36,37,40,41,60,66,108,
Shikharapuri 8 llO
Shilapatra xviii, 44 Vikramashila xviii
Shiva 69,77,99 Vishnu 62,99
Shrikandapura 93 Vishnu Devi, ChObar 86
Sikali Devi 68
Sikkim xvi, xviii
Vishnurnati 9
~ ~.. -
Yampi Bihar 9,2f
Sirnraungadh 56
Sindur 105
Sinha Darbar 5
B. Index of People and Persons
Sohrakutte 93 Amrtadeva 55
Sonaguthi 67 Ananda Malla 9
Stupa ~vii, 6 Ananta Malla 66
Subarna-puri {Suvarnapuri) 6,7 Anshuvarma (Amcuvarrnan, Amsubarma)
Sukut 23 8,50,53
Suphaleshvar Math 43 Ashoka xvii, 6,26
Svayam.bhunath 12,27

Ta 107 Bar-deva 53
Tadhan Lukha 107 Blraskara-barrna 6
Taha Chapahra 99 Bhupatindra Malla 58
Tahaphale 91 Bir Deva 8
Takai 43 Biswa Malla 44
Takai Math 4~ Brahman xvii, xviii, xix, 13,19,40,43
Talej u (8havan1) xviii, 53 Buddhist (population) xviii
TaleJuchauka 53
Tamrapatra xviii
Chakora Rishi 9
Tar 3
• Charumati xxiii, 26
Tarai xvii
Tel 105
Tcliya In ~ 105 Daivagya 19
Tharnel 27 Dersinha Shakya 34
Tbambugangshula 8 Devapala xvii, 6,26
Than 106,110 Dharma Datta Raja 6
Than Bah ii (Vi hara) I 6,27 Dharmakar 6
rhankot 8,9,12 Dha~rnasvamin 27
Tbanthu Rajakula 58,59
Tbapakvatha I '.3 Ganga Rani 66
Tbecho 5, 15,87 G iuseppe, Father 5,14,19
Thimi(Tirni) 3,5,8,14,16,68 Gopala Dynasty xvii
Tilx-t xvi, xvii, xviii, xix, 42 Gosa in Guru Baksha Giri 44,46
Tiki Jhya I 08 Govardhana Misra 27
Tistung 14 . Grihastha Bhikshu 6,27
l'ot 5,6,1, 12,21,31,.50,51,61 Gunajyoti Vajracharya 30

122
Gunakamadeva (Guna-kama-deva) 9,66 Podhya 19
Gupca xviii Pratapa MalJa 30,61,62
Guru 27,40,90,99 Pratapsinha Shah 61
Gurung xvii Prithvinarayan Shah xix, S,14,SO
Pujari 43
H 1milton F. 8 . 14
Purandarsinba 76
Huasinhadeva (Harisinha) 56,SS
Haridauavarma 66 Jlajput xviii
Helmani Lakshmi 30 ltajyaprakasa Malla Deva 13
Homraj Shakya 37 Kana (dynasty, period) xix. 5,60,62
Hindu (Jroups) xvii Ranaiit Malla 5S
lndo-Aryan (race) xvii Regmi 27
Riddhi Lakshmi 80
Jagatir Malla SS Rudradeva(-barm&) 27,SS
Jagatprakasha Mana ss
Jagbania 13 Sadashivadeva Malla SS.66
Jangbahadur Rana xix Sadhu 40,90
Jayaiitbiti Malla xvii. 19.40.67 Sanga (group of monks) 27,30
Jitamitra Malla SS.91 Sannyasi 43,44
Shah (dynasty) 14,60,61
ICailash Glri 44
Kasai 19 Shakya 2i
Kasyapa Misra 27 Shankaradeva 7
Kintnti 6 Sherpa xvii
Shiva (ascetics) 94· '
Kirkpatrick 6, 14
Kot-nayaka 13 Shiva Singha Malla 61,66
Shri Abhayaraj Bauddhacharya 34
Kripala Giri 44
Kshetri xvii, xix, 19 Shri Dersinha Shakya 34
Shri Gunajyoti Vajracharya 30
Kullu 19
Sbrinirash Malla 56
LaJit ~., Shrinivasa Malla 13,S5,56,67,91
Lalita s Shrivisbnu Malla 56
Licchavi (dynasty, era) xvii, xviii, 6,S,9,10 Siddbinarasinba Malla 51,55
l 2, 13,26,SS,94 Sivadeva-barma 6,53
Loknath Giri 44 Somabansi Rajput 53
Sudbanva 19
Magar xvii Sudra 19
Mahendra Malla 61,62 Sultan Sbams-Ud-Din - Jlyu xviii
Mahendreshvar 62 Sunayasri Misra Brahmana 27,2S
Malla (dx,iiasty, era) xviii, xix, 9,19,61
Tamang xviii
M urari Shahi 13
Tbakalis xvii
Moslom (invasion) xvii, xviii, 13
Tibeto-Burman(races) xvii
~arendra Deva S,S3 Tribhuvan xix
Nayaka 16 Tharu xvii
Ne Muni 9
Vaisya 19
Nepalese (people) xvii
Vajracbarya 27
New1r (tribe) xvii, 9,IS,19
VeraDeva(ViraDeva) 8
Mahanta 40,42,43,44,45,47 Vikr4lmajit 53
Vishva Malla 44,67
Nirash 27 Visnu Malla 56
Nirbanika Vanaprastha Bb.ikshu 27 Viswa Malla 99
Pali 26
Wright,D. 9
Parthivendra Malla 80
Pir Mahanta 42,46 Yadumani Lakshmi 30
123 -
Yaksha Malla xviii. 8,13,99 Mahadeo 67
. Yakshaprakasha Malla 44 Mahadeva 6,67,91
Yoganarendra Malla 91,92 · Mahalakshmi 9,16
Mahamrityunjaye 7
C. Index of Deities and Divinities Mahankal (Mahakala) 8,28,30
Mahayana 27
Agama 7
Maheshvar 67
Agamdevta 56,65.67.91
Mantra 55 ·
Annapurna Devi 9,84
Mantraju 56
Avarna 7
Bachta Devi 7 Nag 8,55
Bh~gvati
60,61,62 Narasinha 12,51,58
Bhairav xviii, 6,58,67,71, 72 Narayan 59,61,68.69,70,73,74.76,91
Bhavani 16 Nasaleshvara 61
Bhimsen 71 Navadurga 9,72,87
Bhuta image 7 Nritya Natha 6.7
Bodhisatwa Manjusri 6 Nrityeshvar 67
·Brahma .99
Bujdha (Shakyamuni) xvii, 6,28,53 Puja 44,52,61,84
Buddhism xvii, xviii, xix Purana 9
Budhanilkantha Narayan 62
Rato Macchindranath 36,67,92
Deo-Deo 67
Devi 9 Sarasvati 62
Durga 56 Shakta 61
Gaganachari 6 Shankar 67
Ganesh 6,7,8,28,30,51,68,72,73,88 Shasthra 9
Ganga 56 Shiva (Siva) xvii.xviii, xix, 7,44,46,67,68,80
Gautama Buddha 26 Shiva linga 8,69
Gorakhnath 94 Shiva-Parvati 62
Shivaratri 43
Hanuman 12,50,58 Simadut 15
Harihara Lokeshvara 30
Hinduism xvii, xviii, xix, 27 Tulaja Devi 58
Tulaja Maju SS
In<lra 9, 62,93
Ishtadevta 56 Ugracnanda 58
Iswari 7
.. . Vajrayana 27
Kala Bhairav 62 Vanadurga 12
Kali 47 Vasuki 58
Kamdeva 62 •• ... Vira 6
Kanteswara devata 9
Vishnll xvii
Khamba 6
Kuldevta 67,72
Kumari 6
' Yamadut 15
Yamuna 56
Yoni 69
Lakshmi 9
Lokeswara 9

124
TRANSCRIPTION

When searching for the coi:rect spelling of non-English


names and terms and the best way of their transcription
many problems arose, a s the names and terms originate
from three different languages, i.e. Sanskrit, Nepali and
Newari.

Only Sanskrit has a standard system of transcriptfon


which is internationally agre~d upon; and as the root of
the Nepali language is the same as the Sanskrit language
a similar way for transcription can be adopted. But the
Newari language poses problems because of its different
origin. Furthermore, the system underlying the represent-
ation of sounds by the scripts of the three languages differ
from each other and certain sounds of one language do
not exist in the other or may differ widely in pronuncia-
tion. For example in Newari, unlike Nepali, no differant-
iations are made between long and short vowels or 6et-
tween the al v~olar and dental "t". Many ofl~e building
terms derive from Old Newari and are not only slightly
·changed in Modern Newari but are even absorbed into the
Nepali language spoken in the Kathmandu Val~ey. Very
often names of places or buildings originate from Sanskril
but are changed and adapted to Newa.r! and create such
problems as described .above. Therefore, an a ttempt hagi'
been made in this book to try and harmonize with the
popular local pronunciation and to respect tlte:~mmon ::
transcription used in the country as much as -p~Mibte. ~For
instance, the Sanskrit work Lalitapura is now being pro-
nounced Lalitpur, or Pafopatinatha as Pashupathinath or
even Pashu.

I lZ
About the Book
The .-esult or seve ral years'
resea rch during his stay In Nepal as a


German Volunte er assigned lo the
Building Depart.-nent (now Houstng and
Physic al DepartmenO or HMG. Nepal
This book by Mr. WolJgang Korn ts a
s tudy of lhe group or bulld:ngs In the
Kathmandu V1illt:y best described a.a
•tra.dlUonal Nepalese s tyle.· While
om itting ror practical rea:roons
slupas/challyas and temples or the
s hikhara style. this book outlines the
religious as well ~ public and prtvate
.->_.M.
- ._.OC'MC., P"P * PCR DI
AID> llfOltTllSIUI IRDU
buildings along wtlh t heir
measurements and ltnedrawn sketches.
The text gives a good and tnformatm
Cold Bedall 1886. 1975.
~ Oii 'iRS JnHNOLOGT or account or the architecture coliected
. . ..&L AJID SOUTH ASIA from diverse sources as well as fram
Hnandtt W. Macdonald 1952·
1971. 1975.
keen obscl'Vatton of monum ents whilst
£ ~ Oii TmST G . A. Combe drawtng.
191218. 1976.
~ Oil' IOPAL HSl· lll84 H .
A. -SM. A. Oldfield 1976.

....,. ......
..arT8 ARD BOU8SBOLDSR8
cw.tel campbell 1976.
ns 'l'll&MU1lS uvuua or 8IBUO'l1IBCA llDIALAYJCA
-1TAJI Padma 'l'Mwang: Khenpo T h e purpose of BIBLIOTHECA
Plnant.ehok Taehl, Sigmund K.
~and Chr1• Bulleno 1995. HIMALAYlCA Is to make available worb
~ ON TOLllO Graham on the natural history and clvlllzatJoos
a.tie· 1995. o r Central Asta and the Himalaya. ~
ST89IC GROUP 8TUDJSS Don selection or books Inc ludes new worb
*-<:nehmldt 1978· 82. 1995.
T•S TRADiTIONAL
by pr~sent·day scholars and students.
AltCBlTSCTURS or TBS as well as reprints of classical. out-G-
KAT8llAlfDU VALi.ST Wolfgang pr1nt or antiquarian books. Repr1nt.s al
._.. 1976. 1979. 1982 . 1990. older books may Include addttJonaJ
Ul83. contemporary Illustrations as well u m
G&TSWAT TO TBS TSllPLS
ftubten Legehay Oyateh . David up lo date lntroducllon.
Paul Jack.son 1979. BIBLIOTiiECA HIMALAYICA ts edited bJ
9UDDBl8T llOJlfA8TSRll£8 IN H. K. Kul0y
~ HDIALATA Rom! Khosla Th ese are 4 series In Btbllothcca
1979. Hlmalaylca . SERIES I: History -
TBS l[lJLUNOS RAI C harles
lkdougal 1979. Geography • Travel. SERIES 11:
'nJfQl.ATAR Pete r Hodge Prindle Linguistics • Bibliography • Biography -
1983. Llleralure. SERIES Ill: Art· ArchaeokJO
• Architecture • Re ligion • EthnokJCY.
SERIES IV: Ecology • Environment -
-Oevclopmenl Studies.

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