General Instructions

• Take lots of pictures as you take your carburetor apart. This will give
you a reference of where things go.
• Using a cookie sheet with folded up sides will help keep parts from falling on
the floor.
• We suggest not removing the throttle shaft, valves, or choke shaft
unless they are corroded, or very dirty. These parts can be easily
damaged and are difficult to re-assemble.
• Instruction sheets that come with our carburetor kits are somewhat
generic. It may not match your parts exactly.
• Do NOT use WD-40 around your carburetor. It reacts with ethanol.
• Using Silicon Spray Lubricant on the gaskets will help with sticking in
case you need to take the carburetor apart again.
• Be careful after taking the top of the carburetor off. Turning the carburetor
upside down may
cause parts to fall out and you won’t know where they were.
• Screws and jets that are frozen can often be removed after heating outside the
screw or jet.
• Stuck check balls can be removed by heating the outside of where the
check ball resides and tapping the carburetor on the work bench.
• Do not discard any parts until complete done. You may have to

refer for size, or matching. Cleaning:

• Clean with carburetor dis-assembled.

• Soak all parts except rubber & electrical in Simple Green for 2 hours.
Aluminum parts will get discolored if left longer.
 • Wash parts with hot water if available to remove all chemicals.
• Blow out each passage way taking special notice of the smaller ones.
Test each passage that air goes through the entire passage.
• Blow out the idle mixture hole.
• Check any hole above the idle mixture hole (inside the bore). This is the
idle discharge and often becomes plugged.
• A tooth brush can facilitate cleaning parts.
• Soda blasting, then washing again will make the carburetor look good
any will clean any minor deposits.
• Any corrosion, or deposits that are hard to remove may indicate the
passages are also corroded and the carburetor should be replaced.
• If your engine has been sitting for 6 months or more, the gas has
probably turned, and the gas tank will need to be cleaned as well as the
fuel lines. Flushing new gas through the tank will not be enough.
Assembly:
• Do NOT apply any gasket sealant on any of the gaskets. Gas will
break sealant part and the particles will clog the small passages.
• Test your float.
o Brass floats should be immersed into hot water. As the air inside
expands any leak will be noticeable with air bubbles.
o Plastic, or Nitrophyl floats should be weighed. The weight is
in grams. Check our technical pages for any weight
specification that we may have.
• Most gaskets will fit as expected, but you may have to trim some, especially
under the venturis.
• Your kit may include multiple gaskets in order to get better coverage out
of the kit. Use the one that fits the best. Look for any opening the gasket
may leave allowing air into the carburetor. Some holes may be casting
holes that don’t lead to anything and do not have to be covered.
• Mounting gaskets for multiple bore carburetors do not have to have
matching holes. Example a four-barrel gasket can be open in the middle
instead of 4 holes as long as the carburetor has some kind of passage
between bores. The passage is between primary, or secondary, not
both.
• When adjusting the float be careful not to put any pressure on the
needle. The viton tip is easily damaged.
• Most idle mixture screws can be cleaned using a soft wire wheel.
Inspect for any scoring, which would indicate over tightening. Screw
 with scoring should be replaced.
Accelerator Pumps:
• On leather cups run your finger around the inside of the cup to break any
manufacturer sealant.
• Apply 2 drops of oil to cups (leather, or rubber) before inserting into
carburetor. Do not soak the cup in oil. The swelling of the cup needs to
happen inside the carburetor. Allow the 2 drops of oil and the gas to do its
job naturally.
• Twist the pump as you are inserting to help keep the cup from curling or folding
over.
• Test your accelerator pump circuit before putting the top of the
carburetor back on. Our technical pages have instructions on how
to do this for most carburetor types.
• Pump wells are usually slight tapered, and the pump will not seal
until it gets towards the bottom.

Aisan Rebuild
These Aisan rebuild instructions are generic to the Aisan carburetor and it is assumed the
rebuild has had experience rebuilding carburetor.
Tip: Take photos along the way so you can refer back if needed.
Tip: Use a cookie sheet to hold the parts. This will keep the small parts from rolling off.
Tip: Save all small parts and clips. Our kits come with most necessary small parts, but they
are easily lost.

Cleaning: Do no soak any plastic, or rubber parts. Soak in Simple Green, or

Berrymans for 2 hours. Be careful or the Aluminum will get discolored if left too
long. Carburetor cleaners from your parts store will also work. Follow the
directions on the can.
Wash off all chemical - use hot water if possible.
Blow out all passages with compressed air. Check each passage to make sure the
air is going all the way thorough.
Some kits will have extra parts that that

you may not need.

Instructions are in order by engine type: 3KC, F, 8RC, 2M, 4M, 18RC, 2TC

3KC ----------------------------------------
Corolla (1971-73)

• remove fuel pipe - #3

• remove pump connecting rod - #16
• remove adapter assembly - #10
• remove top screws - #19
• remove fast idle rod - #18
• If the top doesn't want to come off easily, rap the side of the top with a rubber
hammer. Be careful not to hit a piece that can break off.
• Be careful that you don't turn the float bowl upside down.
Parts will fall out. Remove float & other parts from the top

• pull float pin #21 & float #22 - Do not soak float, or any other plastic piece.
• remove needle & seat #23 - Located under the float tab. The seat screws in a counter
clockwise direction.
• remove power piston #28 - There is a power piston screw holding the piston down
beside the piston and under the float as shown.
• remove accelerator pump #24 - Unscrew the bolt #15 holding the pump lever #16
to the top. The pump can then be pulled out.
Tip: polish the power piston using a wire wheel. Polish the piston hole (well) with
crocus cloth if it has any roughness at all.
 Remove float bowl parts

• Remove the accelerator pump spring #31, or #3 as pictured.

• Remove the check weight and check ball #32 & #33. Turn the bowl over and the
parts will drop out. The larger of the 2 check balls go into the main discharge hole.
• Remove the retainer and check ball under the pump return spring #3. The retainer
is spring loaded and easily lost and are not available. The small of the 2 check balls
go in the bottom of the pump well.
• Remove the primary & secondary venturi #48 & #45 by removing the venturi screws #44.
• Remove the secondary jet #38. - unscrews count clockwise. Be sure to keep track
of which jet goes in which hole. They are not the same size.
• Remove the primary jet #42. - unscrews counter clockwise.
• Remove power valve #37 - unscrews counter clockwise.
• Remove idle jet #36 - NOTE some Aisan carburetors have 2 jets that screw into
the bowl and they look alike. Be sure not to get them mixed up.
Throttle body

• Remove the A.S.S. valve #7

• Remove idle mixture screw #55 - when installed screw in clockwise until gently
seated, then turn out 2 turns. Fine tune once engine is at operating temp.
• Remove the throttle body screws #50
• Remove the throttle body screw #51 & #52 - One is hollow. Don't
get them mixed up.
• Clean your parts as described above
Assemble in the reverse order
It helps to spray the gaskets with silicon spray lubricant.
Run your finger around the edge of the leather cup to break any sealer it may
be coated with. Apply 2 drops of oil to the leather cup. It may take a few starts
before the pump is fully expanded.

Later models Aisan carburetors may have an Idle Compensator, generally on air conditioned
cars. This isused to allow more air when the engine gets hot. Not critical if you don’t run in
hot conditions.

Cleanout filter

3KC Adjustments
 Float adjustment

Nitrophyl & brass float has the same measurement. Measure from the lowest part of
the float to the edge of the top without the gasket.

Float Drop

Measure distance from botton of the air horn to lowest point of float. Distance should be 1.97”, or 50mm

Accelerating pump
Upper hole in the pump connecting link is setting for normal weather, lower hole for extreme cold weather.

Fast Idle

With choke valve fully closed, measure clearance between primary throttle valve and bore. The
clearance should be .04” 1.0mm. Adjust by bending the fast idle lever.

Cleanout Filter

Clean and blow out your cleanout filter. If missing be sure to install an inline fuel filter.

Adjust Throttle Valves

With primary throttle valve fully open, secondary throttle valve should also be fully open. If necessary, adjust
valve openings by bending throttle shaft link. Secondary throttle valve should begin to open when primary
throttle valve it 60 degrees open.

Secondary Throttle Valve Stop Lever

Measure distance between high speed shaft arm and stop lever just as secondary throttle begins
to open. Clearance should be .02”, .5mm as indicated in the illustration.

3KC Exploded Top

3KC Exploded Bottom
F Engine ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Toyota Land Cruiser 1970-73

Rebuild Steps
1 – Remove snap ring on bottom of accelerator pump connecting link, remove pump arm screw and pump arm
with connection link. Remove choke wire clamp and magnetic valve. Remove snap ring on choke connection
link, and remove choke connecting link, and likewise remove throttle positioner link and vertical fast idle link.
2- Remove carburetor cover screws and cover. Remove diaphragm and carefully lift off cover taking care not to
damage float. Remove accelerator pump plunger spring. Steel ball will remain in place unless retainer is
removed.
3- Remove pump discharge weight assembly (gasket, stopper, weight and ball). Remove four Phillips screws
securing primary and secondary booster venturis, remove venturis and gaskets. Loosen and remove both slow
jets, remove power valve assembly. To remove primary main jet, remove main passage plug. In this passage
there will be 2 jets, one is primary main jet, in use. The other is a spare, not in use, for high altitude 6,600 ft and
up. Remove secondary main jet in same manner.
4- Remove glass level gauge assembly. Remove retaining screws for cast flange and remove flange from
carburetor body. Remove throttle positioner lever. Remove high speed valve stop lever and spring.
5- To disassemble flange, remove idle adjusting screw, and remove primary and secondary throttle valves,
along with high speed valve. Remove retaining rings on throttle shaft ends and slide throttle shafts from flange.
To reinstall, slide the thicker throttle valve onto the secondary side. The thinner one on primary side. Install
from underneath. Throttle shaft end play should not exceed .004” 4mm. Shim for adjustment.
6- To disassemble cover assembly, remove float lever pin and float. Remove needle valve assembly. Remove
accelerator pump stopper, accelerator pump, and spring. Remove pump plunger and boot. Remove filter trap
and filter. Check choke valve for smooth operation and replace any defective parts.
7- Clean all parts thoroughly, blow out all passages with compressed air. Also blow through with spray
carburetor cleaner.

Reassemble in reverse order.

Float Level
Turn the carburetor cover upside down and let the float sit naturally on the needle & seat. Adjust to 1970-72
.310” 8mm, 1973 .161” 4.1mm

Float Drop
Raise the float. Clearance between needle valve push pin and float tab should be .040” 1mm. Adjust by bending
the 2 outside float tabs.

Primary & Secondary Valve Adjustment

Check opening angles of primary and secondary throttle valves. When primary throttle valve is fully opened the
secondary throttle valve should also be fully opened. Adjust, if necessary by bending throttle shaft link.

Secondary Air Valve Adjustment

Accelerator Pump Adjustment

Accelerator pump stroke should be .31”, or 8mm. Adjust by bending accelerator pump connection link.
Measurement is taken at boot end of accelerator lever.
 Throttle Positioner Adjustment

Perform this adjustment with carburetor completely assembled. Pull rubber hose off diaphragm housing to
expose it to atmospheric pressure. Turn adjusting screw in until it makes contact with the throttle arm and a
clearance of .026” - .034” is obtained between lower edge of throttle valve and throttle bore. Now adjust gap
between throttle arm and screw to .078” - .118”, 2-3 mm.

Choke Pulling Angle Adjustment

Close choke valve fully, and push link rod fully back. Apply .4” vacuum to diaphragm. Adjust, if necessary, by
bending link so that valve matches 38 degrees end of gauge. After completing adjustment release link rod and
remove vacuum hose. Check to see if choke closes fully when lever is pulled.

Damper Valve Stop Lever Adjustment

When secondary throttle valve just starts to open adjust the ‘A’ portion so that the clearance between stop lever
and arm is .016” - .027”, .4-.7mm. Adjust by changing angle at point ‘A’

Idle Speed & Mixture Adjustment

With engine at normal operating temperature, air cleaner in place and vacuum gauge and tach attached, turn
throttle valve adjusting screw in or out until engine operates smoothly without stalling at lowest possible RPM.
Turn idle adjusting screw to obtain highest vacuum reading and smooth operation at 600 RPM. Vacuum should
exceed 18” hg. If Co meter is available, CO reading should be 2-3%

F Engine Exploded View

2M -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Toyota Crown M 1965-67

Toyota Crown 2M 1968-70

Rebuild Steps
1- Remove thermostatic valve, pump lever and link and fast idle cam and springs.
2- After removing air horn from body, remove pump plunger, float and needle valve
 assembly. Remove the power jet piston and allied parts.
3- After removing the choke cover & coil, remove the choke valve from the shaft. Then
remove the fast idle cam lever, choke lever link, vacuum piston connector, choke shaft
and vacuum piston.
4- Remove pump discharge passage plug, discharge weight, steel ball and venturi.
5- Remove the power valve and jet. Remove the plug in the bottom of the bowl and remove
the steel ball.
6- After removing the fuel passage plugs from the body, remove primary and secondary
main jets, level gauge clamp and sight glass.
7- Remove the 2 plugs in the low speed circuits, the idle speed screw and the idle mixture
screw and spring.
8- Remove the secondary kick arm and link, the retaining ring, secondary kick lever and
secondary throttle spring.
9- Remove the primary throttle lever, dashpot lever, and fast idle lever. Remove the primary
throttle valve lock ring and adjusting shim and remove the throttle shaft.
10- Remove the diaphragm housing cap and spring, remove the dashpot. Remove
diaphragm snap ring and diaphragm.
11- Remove the secondary throttle valve and shaft. Remove the collar, diaphragm
relief lever and diaphragm relief spring. Remove the diaphragm housing.
Assembly
1-Reverse the disassembly procedure.
After assembling the choke valve on the choke shaft, install the fast idle cam lever and bend
the two ears to secure the lever to the shaft.
Primary & secondary throttle valves are installed underneath the shafts. Adjust throttle
valves so that they will touch the carburetor body.

2M Engines Adjustments

Float Level (off car)

Invert the air horn allowing the float tang to rest on the needle valve. The distance between the
end of the float and the air horn body should be 3/8”, 9.5mm.
 Float Drop

With the air horn in its normal position (yes the illustration is upside down), the float should
drop so that a distance between the end of the float and the air horn body of 29/32” .

Fast Idle Adjustment

With the choke valve fully closed, the fast idle lever must be at the top of the fast idle cam.
Adjust by bending the choke connection link at the existing bend.

With choke valve fully closed, adjust the fast idle speed adjusting screw so that the primary
throttle valve is approximately 12.5 degrees open from the fully closed position.
 Choke Unloader

With the primary throttle valve fully opened, the choke valve should be opened approximately
20 degrees from the fully closed position. Adjust by bending the fast idle lever.

Secondary Throttle Valve Primary Touch

the secondary throttle valve must start to open. At this point the primary kick arm and the

primary kick lever should contact. To adjust, bend the kick lever.

Accelerator Pump Stroke

Measure pump plunger travel from closed throttle to wide open throttle. Plunger stroke should b e 7/32” 5.5mm.
Adjust by bending the pump connecting link.

Dashpot
On bench – With the fast idle level positioned on high point of the fast idle cam, turn the adjusting screw in or
out until the screw just touches the dashpot plunger end. With choke in full open position, open the throttle to
compress the dashpot plunger and diaphragm. Release the throttle. The dashpot should completely close the
throttle in from 5 to 7 seconds.
On Car- With engine idle speed set, stop the engine. Fully open the throttle and check the elapsed time before
the throttle returns to a fully closed position. Normal time is 2-3 seconds.

4M -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Toyota Crown 4M 1971
Rebuild Steps
1- Remove accelerator pump lever with link, cam screw and cam. Remove choke unloader linkage,
thermostatic valve with bracket, air horn screws and air horn.
2- Remove float pin, float, valve and seat. Remove power piston and spring, choke housing and assembly.
3- Remove power valve, plug and choke ball. Remove slow jet, stopper, weight and ball.
4- Remove venturis, secondary throttle diaphragm cap, spring and gasket. Unhook positioner spring and
remove diaphragm housing cover with dashpot, if equipped (auto trans). Remove throttle positioner rod,
snap ring and diaphragm.
Reassembly – Reverse disassembly procedure.

4M Adjustments

Idle Speed & Mixture

1972 – Adjustment is made with air cleaner installed and engine at normal operating temperature. Connect a
vacuum gauge and tachometer and proceed as follows: Adjust idle speed screw to obtain specified idle RPM.
Adjust idle mixture screw to obtain highest and smoothest vacuum reading. Alternately adjust between idle
speed screw and idle mixture screw until highest vacuum at specified idle RPM is obtained.
1973- With engine at normal operating temperature, air cleaner installed and vacuum gauge and tachometer
connected, adjust throttle adjusting screw and mixture adjusting screw to obtain maximum vacuum at 700 RPM
(man trans in N) or 650 RPM (auto trans in D). Race engine momentarily and check that idle returns to
specified RPM. Now, using CO tester, check that CO value is between 1 & 3 percent. If CO value is too high,
tighten mixture adjusting screw to obtain specified value. If specified CO cannot be achieve at specified idle
speed +- 50 RPM, repeat idle adjustment and if necessary, check all other engine adjustments.

Throttle Positioner
Warm engine and adjust idle RPM to specification. Pull out thermo sensor connector and disconnect vacuum
hose from positioner diaphragm. Positioner linkage should now be set to hold throttle valve open. Set positioner
adjusting screw to obtain 1300 RPM (man trans) and 12 RPM (auto trans). Reconnect vacuum hose and thermo
sensor connector.

Primary Throttle Valve Fast Idle

 Fast idle on the bench.
With choke valve fully closed, fast idle lever must be at top of fast idle cam. Adjust by bending choke
connecting link existing bend.
With choke valve closed, adjust fast idle speed adjusting screw so primary throttle valve is approximately 23
degrees from base plane.

Unloader

Hold primary throttle valve wide open, choke valve should be opened approximately 35 degrees from base
plane. Adjust by bending fast idle lever.

Automatic Choke
Verify that choke valve will close from wide open when coil housing is turned clockwise. Choke plate should
close at 77 deg F, 25 deg C. One graduation on choke cover will vary choke sensing temperature 9 deg F 5 deg
C. Basic setting for choke is with cover indexed to center mark on housing.

Float Level
Invert air horn allowing float tang to rest on needle valve. Distance between end of float and air horn body
should be .51”, 13mm

Float Drop
Turn carburetor cover top side down, raise float by hand. Clearance between needle valve push pin and float tab
should be .035-.040 .9-1.1mm

Fuel Level engine running

If fuel level is within level lines on carburetor sight glass with engine operating, fuel level is OK.

Secondary Throttle Valve Primary Touch

Open primary throttle valve 55 deg. Measured from base plane, secondary throttle valve should start to open. At
this point, primary kick arm and primary kick up lever should contact. To adjust, bend kick-up lever.

Secondary Throttle Valve Kickup

Open primary throttle valve more than 62 deg. Measured from base plane, secondary throttle valve to body
clearance should be .008-.016” .2-.4mm. To adjust bend secondary kick arm.

Full Secondary throttle opening

With primary throttle valve wide open, secondary throttle valve should be open 77 deg from base plane. To
adjust, bend tang on secondary throttle shaft.

Accelerator Pump Stroke

Measure pump stroke from closed to open throttle positions. Plunger stroke should be 7/32” 5.5 mm. Adjust by
bending pump connecting link.

2M & 4M Exploded view

8-RC -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Toyota Corona 1971
Toyota Corona MKII 1970-71
Toyota Celica 1971
Toyota HI-Lux 1971

Rebuild steps
• Remove reloader connection link cover, link, pump arm screw and lever, pump connecting link, and fast
idle connecting link.
• Remove air horn from body. Take care not to damage pump plunger and float. Lift air horn straight up.
Remove pump damper spring and stopper seal washer.
• Invert carburetor body and remove stopper, discharge weight, and check ball. Remove 3 securing screws
and separate body from flange.
• To disassemble body, remove high speed valve stop lever and spring. Remove primary and secondary
booster venturis. Remove slow jet, remove check ball retainer and remove check ball by inverting
carburetor.
• Remove power valve, then remove jet from power valve. Remove level gauge clamp, glass ‘O’ ring.
Remove thermostatic valve assembly. NEVER DISASSEMBLE THERMOSTATIC VALVE.
• Remove primary and secondary main passage to gain access to primary and secondary main jets.
Remove the jets.
• To disassemble flange, remove high speed valve (file off staked portion of valve screws). Remove snap
ring and slide high speed valve shaft from flange. Remove idle speed and mixture screws.
• Remove throttle shaft link, throttle shaft arm and secondary throttle lever together with return spring.
Remove primary throttle valve, retaining rings and adjusting shims. Remove secondary throttle valve
and shaft (fill off staked portion of screws). Remove reloader lever.
• To disassemble air horn, remove pump plunger and boot. Remove float pin and float. Remove needle
valve and seat assembly. Remove power piston stopper, power piston, and piston spring. Remove main
passage plug and strainer.
• To disassemble automatic choke, remove coil housing, gasket, plate and sliding rod boot. Take care not
to de-from the bi-metal. Remove fast idle cam follower and sliding rod. Remove piston connector
securing screw, choke valve, choke lever and choke shaft.
• Remove fast idle cam together with spring from choke shaft. Remove vacuum piston with connector,
then remove piston pin to separate piston from connector. Remove thermostat case from air horn.
Reassembly
Assembly is reverse order of disassembly, making sure to use all new gaskets. When installing throttle valves,
thick one goes on secondary side, thinner one on primary side. They must be installed from bottom. When
installing shims on throttle shfts, install thicker shim on throttle shaft arm side.

8-RC Adjustments

Float Level
Turn carburetor cover top side down. Clearance between top of float and cover gasket surface should be .37”
9.3mm. Adjust by bending middle float tab.

Float Drop
Turn carburetor cover top side down, raise float by hand. Clearance between needle valve push pin and float tab
should be .039” 1mm. Adjust by bending the 2 outside float tabs.

Secondary Throttle Valve

When primary throttle valve is fully opened, secondary throttle valve should also be fully opened. To adjust,
bend throttle shaft link.

High Speed Valve

With high speed valve fully closed, clearance between lower valve edge and bore should be .023-,031” .6-.8mm.
Adjust by loosening retaining screws and sliding valve.

Fast Idle
With choke valve fully closed, clearance between lower edge of primary throttle valve and bore should be .029”
.73mm. This would be 11 deg from a fully closed position.
 Unloader

With throttle valve at fully opened position, utilize the 51deg angle gauge and check the choke valve opening
angle. Adjust opening angle so that it will open at 19deg from the closed position which is 51 deg, partial open
angle will be 70 deg. Adjust by bending fast idle cam follower or choke shaft tab.

Automatic Choke
To adjust the air fuel mix, turn coil housing counterclockwise to richen and clockwise to lean. With center
groove on coil housing aligned with center groove of case choke, valve should close fully at 77 deg F.

Idle Mixture (on bench)

Idle mixture screw should be screwed out 2 turns from fully closed position.

Secondary Air Valve Stop Lever

Lever should disengage when secondary throttle valve just starts to open. Clearance between stop lever and
secondary air valve weight lever is .020” .5mm. To adjust bend tab of primary throttle shaft arm.

Reloader

Reloader should disengage from stopper when choke valve is opened 50 deg from the fully closed position of
70 deg. To adjust bend the link at the ‘B’ position. When primary throttle valve is fully open the reloader is in
operated position, clearance between secondary throttle valve edge and bore should be .014”-.030” .35-.75mm.
To adjust, bend reloader lever tab. When choke valve is fully opened manually, reloader lever should disengage
smoothly.

Idle Speed & Mixture

Adjust idle speed and mixture screws alternately to obtain a smooth idle mixture with steady maximum vacuum
reading. Idle speed should be 640 RPM with synchro-mesh in neutral and auto trans in ‘D’

8RC Exploded View

18RC -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Corona 1972-73
Celica 1972-73
Hi-Lux 1972-73

Rebuild Steps
Tag small linkage washers during disassembly so they will be installed in the proper location.
• Remove pump lever screw, lever and pump connection link.
• Remove automatic choke connecting link and sliding rod boot. Disconnect diaphragm plunger shaft
from diaphragm lever and remove back spring. Remove secondary diaphragm operating mechanism
from the main body and disassemble.
• Remove the screw that holds the throttle positioner diaphragm to air horn. Remove throttle positioner
connecting link clip and throttle positioner diaphragm valve.
• Remove remaining air horn attaching screws and separate air horn from main body. Carefully lift air
horn straight upward or pump plunger and float may be damaged.
• Remove stopper seal washer, pump plunger and pump plunger spring. Invert main body and catch
 stopper, pump discharge weight and large check ball.
• Separate the main body from throttle body by removing two screws from body and one drilled screw
from beneath throttle body.
• Remove primary and secondary venturis, slow jet, check ball retainer with ball, power valve assembly,
main jets and power valve. Remove 2 screws holding fuel level gauge to body, clamp, glass and ‘O’ ring.
• Remove thermostatic valve assembly. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE VALVE.
Reassembly
Reassemble in reverse order
• Replace all gaskets with new one. Check for smooth movement of all valves and linkage.
• Choke thermostat case long screw must be installed in 8 o’clock position with case upright.
• When connecting vacuum piston connector to choke shaft, the screw used is stepped on threaded end
and must be installed carefully through piston connector. Lockwasher must be used on stepped screw to
prevent choke plate from binding.
• Power piston stop screw must not be overtightened. If screw is too tight, the bore may distort resulting in
sticking piston operation.
• Do not install fuel level gauge glass backwards. Dot on glass should be to inside of float bowl and
bubble outward.
• When carburetor body is viewed from sight glass end, secondary main jet (aluminum) is located in right
side opening and primary main jet (brass) in left side opening. Install both jets with flat washers.
• Flange gasket can bery easily be installed backwards. Check all holes for proper alignment.
• Torque carburetor flange nuts with lock washer to 5ft lbs.

18RC Adjustments

Float Level

Turn carburetor cover top side down. Clearance between top of float and cover gasket surface should be set to
specification by bending middle float tab.

Float Drop
Turn carburetor cover top side down, raise float by hand and adjust clearance between needle valve pin and
float tab to specification. Adjust by bending 2 outside float tabs. Yes, the illustration is upside down.

Unloader

Fully open primary throttle valve, position choke plate with proper gauge and bend lip to make contact with tab.

Secondary Touch Angle

Position primary throttle valve with specified gauge angle, secondary throttle valve should be closed. Primary
throttle lever and secondary kick lever should contact. Adjust by bending primary throttle lever.
 Secondary Pick Up

18RC Exploded View

 2T-C --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Corolla 1600 1971-73
Carina 1971-73
 Rebuild Steps
• Loosen horn arm set screw, and remove pump lever together with connecting rod. Remove link and
loosen six bolts. Remove air horn from body of carburetor.
• Remove float lever pin and float. Remove needle valve, spring, push pin and seat. Remove power
piston, spring and pump plunger. Remove plug, gasket and strainer.
• Remove choke coil housing, gasket and housing plate. Remove cam float and sliding rod.
• File off peened part of valve set screw and remove choke valve. Remove connector set screw and take
out choke shaft and vacuum piston.
• Remove thermostat case.
• From body remove gasket, stopper, discharge weight and ball. Remove back spring and diaphragm from
diaphragm lever.
• Remove 4 flange set screws and separate flange from body. Remove check ball retainer and steel ball.
• Remove slow jet, loosen 4 screws and remove power valve with wrench. Remove plugs and take out
secondary main jet and primary main jet.
• Remove cover, gasket and thermostatic valve. Remove level gauge clamp, level gauge glass and gasket.
• Remove diaphragm housing and take out housing diaphragm, spring and gasket. Mark the relative
positions of housing and spring bracket and diaphragm.
• Remove idle adjustment screw.
• File off peened part of valve set screws and take off the throttle valves. Be sure to mark the valve so they
go back in the exact way they came out. Remove secondary throttle shaft and remove throttle lever.
• Remove idle adjusting lever with throttle shaft arm attached. Remove retainer ring and take out primary
throttle shaft.

Reassemble in reverse order.

 2T-C Adjustments
Float Level

Adjust float level by bending float lips. When top and bottom level positions are adjusted properly, the
float will maintain the specified fuel level (glass level mark) when engine is running.

Float Drop

Lift up float and check gap between needle valve bushing pin and float lip. The standard gap is .047”
1.2mm. Adjust by bending float lip bottom lever.

Throttle Valve Opening Adjustment

Fully open first and second throttle valves separately and check each throttle valve with gauge to see if it
is perpendicular to the flange face. Adjust throttle valves by bending throttle levers. After adjusting,
check links to see that they move lightly and do not bind.

Second Throttle Valve Opening Angle

Primary throttle lever must contact the secondary throttle lever when primary throttle valve open 57 deg.
From fully closed position. Adjust if necessary by bending valve lever at position shown in illustration.

Kick Up
Adjust by bending secondary throttle lever to obtain .008” .2mm clearance between secondary throttle
valve and body when primary throttle valve opening is over 62 deg from fully closed position.

Choke Unloader
Using a suitable angle gauge, adjust choke valve angle to specification when primary throttle valve is
fully open. Make adjustment by bending fast idle cam follower or choke shaft lever.

2T Upper Exploded

2T Lower