How To Test A Motherboard Thru Their VRMs

Voltage Regulator Modules (VRMs)

VRMs (voltage regulator modules) are a specific class of MOSFETs;

“Far from being true. A VRM module consists of the controlling IC and MosFet‟s (if
we focus only on semiconductors).
However, it is true that there are many type of FET‟s. MOSFET being the most
common one. JFET is one of the other type.”

MOSFETS are a specific type of FETs. FETs have several advantages over bipolar
transistors. For a basic description on the workings of a voltage regulator, search on
“7805 data” on Google or Yahoo (7805 is a basic 5-volt regulator).

VRMs take one voltage (such as +5 VDC) and produce a different, lower voltage that
is needed by various components (microprocessor, memory, etc.). Each VRM can
only produce one output at a time, so two different VRMs are needed if the CPU and
memory operate at different voltages. The output of the VRM can be varied slightly,
depending on how external components are connected and controlled, so some
motherboards are able to have settable voltages for memory. CPU voltage is usually,
but not always, taken care of automatically. True variable power supplies, where the
voltage is variable over a large range, aren‟t used in PCs. The middle leg is usually cut
off, because it is connected to the case, which is soldered to the board. The case is
often, but not always, connected to ground. To test one, you need to know what the
input and output should be, then measure them with respect to a known ground. If the
VRM produces no or low output with proper input, either it‟s bad, or an external
controlling component is bad. If the input is bad, look for upstream damage. Usually,
it‟s best to test a VRM in-circuit (with CPU, memory, etc. removed!) so that the
output can be checked at the immediate output of the VRM, as well as at the point of
connection of the powered device.

The VRM chip generates drive pulses for the gate of the MOSFET. The MOSFET
drives the inductor and the resulting spikes are rectified and filtered either with a
synchronous rectifier fet controlled by the VRM chip or a diode.the chip gets
feedback from the output to vary the duty cycle thus the output voltage. Tthe technical
name is buck converter. Buck converter is the entire circuit, buck controller is the ic
that controls the converter.

Procedure for testing Voltage Regulator Modules (VRMs):

(This assumes that any bad capacitor problems have already been fixed.)

1. Turn off power to the computer.

2. Remove CPU, memory, and all peripherals from motherboard. Disconnect power
supply.

3. This step verifies that the board is not damaged, and the VRM is not shorted:

a. Measure resistance from power supply pin (+3.3, +5, +12, -5, -12) to input of
VRM. Resistance should be zero (too low to measure).
b. Measure resistance from output of VRM to load supply pin. Resistance should be
zero (too low to measure).
c. Measure resistance from input of VRM to ground (should be greater than 1
megohm, usually much greater).
d. Measure resistance from output of VRM to ground (should be greater than 1
megohm, usually much greater).

4. Install CPU, memory, and all peripherals to motherboard. Connect power supply.

5. Turn on power to the computer.

6. This step actually tests the VRM (all voltages taken with respect to circuit ground):
a. Measure voltage at the power supply side of the power connector (+3.3, +5, +12, -5,
-12).
b. Measure voltage at the motherboard side of the power connector (+3.3, +5, +12, -5,
-12). Anything less than the value obtained in step 6.a indicates a high resistance in
the power supply connector.
c. Measure voltage at the input to the VRM (+3.3, +5, +12, -5, -12). Anything less
than the value obtained in step 6.b indicates a high resistance in the PC board traces to
the VRM, and is probably not repairable, even with a schematic.

“Is repairable, by making a bridge with a wire. Usually from one capacitor to the next
one. Never occurred to me unless it is a manufacturer design.

Basically, it is pretty simple. If mainboard does not POST, check voltages.

If PSU voltages are within range, check voltages on motherboard. Cpu has pretty
much standard voltage. About 1.4V is fine for newer CPUs, 1.8V for athlons and P3′s,
2V or greater for first celerons and P2 (Some early P3).

If there is no power (voltage) to the CPU, check if you placed capacitors the right
way, observing the polarity. Same goes for other circuits, RAM, AGP etc. ..

If VRM IC is busted, it would be hard to find a new one. Sometimes (rarely) only one
of the mosfets break, usually the upper one. When it does that, the lower one migh go
„poof‟ as well (protecting the CPU).

If one breaks, replace both. Check IC for damage, might be good to replace that one
as well, sometimes it is the cause of this mess.”
d. Measure voltage at the output of the VRM. The value obtained depends on the
functions being powered by the VRM, so knowledge of the expected value is
required. Anything different than expected indicates a failed VRM (note that output
may be higher or lower than expected if bad).
e. Measure voltage at the device being powered. This requires knowledge of the
device (which pins are power pins). Pinouts are readily available on the Internet for
30-pin, 72/144 pin, and 168 pin memory, as well as ISA, PCI, AGP, USB, etc. Pinouts
for CPUs are either on the Internet or may be obtained from the manufacturer.
Anything less than the value obtained in step 6.d indicates a high resistance in the PC
board traces from the VRM, and is probably not repairable, even with a schematic.

I‟ve learned that the Chopper (i like that word), has to ramp up, and the reference is
actually two feedback loops.
The outer loop, for voltage, and the inner loop for current.
My problem with smaller powersupplies has always been finding bad Zeners, little
ones.

With voltage mode control, e.g. 3524 or TL494, you only have voltage feedback. It
doesn‟t respond as well to load transients, though the load transient spec for an ATX
P/S isn‟t very challenging. With current mode control, e.g. UC3842 (3843, 3844,
3845) you have voltage feedback and a sample of the inductor current is also fedback.
In voltage mode control, the output of its error amplifier (which compares the output
voltage sample to an internal reference voltage) is compared to a sawtooth ramp. The
start of the ramp is also the start of the switch (chopper) on-time; when the ramp
voltage rises above the error amplifier output voltage, the switch is turned off, and
remains off until the ramp voltage is reset to “zero”. Current mode control is similar,
except the sawtooth voltage is a sample (scaled by the output transformer in AC-DC
P/Ss) of the inductor current. This lets the P/S resond much more quickly to load
transients and O/P short circuits.

I‟m not sure whether “ramping up” refers to the sawtooth ramp or to the soft-start
function at turn-on. Soft-start prevents large currents through the switch during the
turn-on time, while the I/P voltage is still increasing. Basically, soft-start limits the
switch on-time and current stress, so that the O/P voltage comes up more slowly.
Another feature that is implemented in the 3842 family PWM ICs is a lock-out that
keeps the device from turning on until its Vcc is high enough to maintain control,
during turn-on, turn off, or a I/P voltage drop-out. I don‟t think the 3524 has this
feature, and I‟m not sure about the TL494 (they‟re almost 30-year-old designs).

Actually, O/P voltage overshoot can also be controlled or not by the compensation
components in the error amplifier circuitry.

If you want to get a better picture of how pulse-width modulation is accomplished –

better than my short paragraph – I‟d suggest checking out the datasheet for an SG3524
or a TL494, which have block diagrams as well as verbiage.

Source = Output
Drain = Input
Gate = Gate

Current flows from the Drain to the Source afaik. (When the gate is (ON))
Can also flow backwards once the gate is on, however, the body diode will conduct
when the gate goes off, leading to rapid heating.
How to find the inputs and outputs on VRMs:

Ouput is past the choke on output capacitors

Input on input capacitors

„In‟ will have +12v connected one one side of caps.

[Continuity check to power plug.]

„Out‟ will have Vcore on one side of caps.

[Continuity check to toroid(s) NOT connected to +12v.]

Motherboard Repair, If All Else Fails (Including Washing)

I suggest as a last ditch effort before retiring it completely if it‟s not too late, baking
the board. I have the problem as a common issue with geforce 6100/6150 chipsets. It‟s
the closest I can get easily to a „bga reflow‟ since I don‟t have a heat gun or a torch or
patience. I know it‟s not a „convenitonal‟ method, but for a board you‟ve attempted
everything else on and are set on pitching it, it can‟t hurt.

My method, strip the board of any heatsinks and battery and cmos chips if possible,
remove all thermal paste and thermal pads, preheat oven to 384F, elevate the
motherboard off of a pan (i ball up aluminum foil and leave a little pointy end for 4
mounting holes to support the board) and bake for 5 minutes. I don‟t suggest pushing
past 6 minutes, it‟s never been beneficial in my cases and stinks like hell. But so long
as you can vent the house afterward hey it‟s fun.