You are on page 1of 16

Melasma: A comprehensive update

Part II
Vaneeta M. Sheth, MD,a and Amit G. Pandya, MDb
Boston, Massachusetts, and Dallas, Texas

CME INSTRUCTIONS
The following is a journal-based CME activity presented by the American Disclosures
Academy of Dermatology and is made up of four phases: Editors
1. Reading of the CME Information (delineated below) The editors involved with this CME activity and all content validation/
2. Reading of the Source Article peer reviewers of this journal-based CME activity have reported no
3. Achievement of a 70% or higher on the online Case-based Post Test relevant financial relationships with commercial interest(s).
4. Completion of the Journal CME Evaluation Authors
CME INFORMATION AND DISCLOSURES Dr. Pandya has been an investigator and consultant for Galderma
Statement of Need: Laboratories within the last 5 years and has received grants and
The American Academy of Dermatology bases its CME activities on the honoraria for these services. Dr. Sheth reported no relevant financial
Academy’s core curriculum, identified professional practice gaps, the relationships with commercial interest(s).
educational needs which underlie these gaps, and emerging clinical
Planners
research findings. Learners should reflect upon clinical and scientific
Matthew Zirwas, MD, served as a peer reviewer for this CME activity and
information presented in the article and determine the need for further
is a speaker and consultant for Coria Laboratories and has received
study.
honoraria for these services. He is also a consultant for Onset
Target Audience: Therapeutics and has received honorarium for this service. The other
Dermatologists and others involved in the delivery of dermatologic care. planners involved with this journal-based CME activity have reported no
Accreditation relevant financial relationships. The editorial and education staff in-
The American Academy of Dermatology is accredited by the volved with this journal-based CME activity have reported no relevant
Accreditation Council for Continuing Medical Education to provide financial relationships with commercial interest(s).
continuing medical education for physicians. Resolution of Conflicts of Interest
AMA PRA Credit Designation In accordance with the ACCME Standards for Commercial Support of
The American Academy of Dermatology designates this journal-based CME, the American Academy of Dermatology has implemented mech-
CME activity for a maximum of 1 AMA PRA Category 1 CreditsÔ. anisms, prior to the planning and implementation of this Journal-based
Physicians should claim only the credit commensurate with the extent of CME activity, to identify and mitigate conflicts of interest for all individ-
their participation in the activity. uals in a position to control the content of this Journal-based CME activity.
AAD Recognized Credit Learning Objectives
This journal-based CME activity is recognized by the American Academy After completing this learning activity, participants should be able to list
of Dermatology for 1 AAD Recognized Category 1 CME Credits and may the various treatment options available for melasma and describe their
be used toward the American Academy of Dermatology’s Continuing respective efficacy, side effect profiles, and risks and benefits; and
Medical Education Award. develop an individualized, evidence-based treatment plan for patients
with melasma.
Disclaimer:
The American Academy of Dermatology is not responsible for statements made by the author(s). Date of release: October 2011
Statements or opinions expressed in this activity reflect the views of the author(s) and do not reflect Expiration date: October 2012
the official policy of the American Academy of Dermatology. The information provided in this CME
activity is for continuing education purposes only and is not meant to substitute for the independent Ó 2010 by the American Academy of Dermatology, Inc.
medical judgment of a healthcare provider relative to the diagnostic, management and treatment doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2011.06.001
options of a specific patient’s medical condition.

Several methods of treatment are available to patients with melasma. First-line therapy usually consists of
topical compounds that affect the pigment production pathway, broad-spectrum photoprotection, and
camouflage. Second-line therapy often consists of the addition of chemical peels, although these must be
used cautiously in patients with darker skin. Laser and light therapies represent potentially promising
options for patients who are refractory to other modalities, but also carry a significant risk of worsening the
disease. A thorough understanding of the risks and benefits of various therapeutic options is crucial in
selecting the best treatment. ( J Am Acad Dermatol 2011;65:699-714.)

Key Words: chemical peels; chloasma; hydroquinone; laser therapy; melasma; pigmentation.

699
700 Sheth and Pandya J AM ACAD DERMATOL
OCTOBER 2011

Melasma has traditionally been treated with a com- melasma and in enhancing the efficacy of
bination of photoprotection, avoidance of trigger fac- other topical therapies once melasma has
tors, and topical depigmenting agents with varying developed
degrees of success. New pathways involved in pigment d Camouflage makeup can be an important

production are being studied as targets for topical component of melasma treatment
therapy. Of late, there has also been a significant
increase in the types of laser and light technologies Several studies have shown that light from both
available for the treatment of the ultraviolet (UV) and even the visible spectrum
disorders of hyperpigmenta- can induce pigmentary
tion. While multiple options CAPSULE SUMMARY changes in the skin, includ-
currently exist to help treat ing in Fitzpatrick skin photo-
2,3
melasma, some of these thera-
d Topical treatment of melasma includes types IV to VI. Immediate
pies have come under increas- hydroquinone, retinoids, chemical peels, pigment darkening caused
ing scrutiny, underscoring the and many other less well studied by the redistribution and ox-
need for more research into compounds. idation of preexisting mela-
the pathogenesis and treat- d The evidence for improvement with laser nin occurs after low-dose
ment of melasma. therapy is mixed with a significant ultraviolet A (UVA) exposure
potential for worsening. and usually fades after 2
TREATMENT OPTIONS hours.4 Persistent pigment
d Newer topical agents and laser darkening lasts up to 24
FOR MELASMA technologies represent promising
The treatment of me- hours and occurs after higher
options for therapy, especially in doses of UVA exposure.
lasma includes topical for- treatment-resistant patients.
mulations, chemical peels, Delayed tanning can occur
lasers, and light sources. from either UVA or UVB ex-
While no single therapy has proven to be of posure and is caused by melanin synthesis. To
benefit to all patients as the sole therapy, combi- investigate if broad-spectrum sun protection could
nations of modalities can be used to optimize be used to inhibit the onset of melasma, Lakhdar et al5
management in difficult cases. Levels of evidence enrolled 200 Moroccan women who were less than 3
for the trials presented below are provided for months pregnant and gave them a sunscreen with a
each treatment modality based on guidelines sun protection factor (SPF) of 501 and a UVA
adapted from the US Preventive Services Task protection factor of 28 (Anthelios; La Roche-Posay
1
Force on health care. In this system, a rating of L’Oreal, Clichy, France) to use every 2 hours during
I means that the evidence is obtained from at least the day, regardless of sun exposure.5 Five of the 185
one properly designed, randomized controlled women (2.7%) who completed the 12-month trial
trial, and a rating of A means there is good developed melasma during pregnancy. Notably, the
evidence to support the use of the procedure same investigators reported a 53% prevalence of
(Appendix). melasma with pregnancy in a similar population in
an earlier study.6 Eight of 12 patients with preexisting
melasma improved with the sunscreen (level of
SUNSCREENS AND CAMOUFLAGE FOR evidence, II-iii). Broad-spectrum sun protection has
MELASMA also been shown to enhance the efficacy of hydro-
Key points quinone.7 A double blind study examining the
d Ultraviolet and visible light can induce mel-
difference in efficacy between patients using a
anin formation hydroquinone-containing agent with either vehicle
d The regular use of broad spectrum sun-
or broad-spectrum sun protection found that 96.2%
screen is effective both in preventing of patients using concomitant sun protection showed
improvement versus 80.7% of patients using hydro-
From the Departments of Dermatology at Brigham and Women’s quinone alone (level of evidence, II-i). A recent study
Hospital,a Harvard Medical School, and the University of Texas revealed that visible light can produce significant
Southwestern Medical Center,b Dallas.
pigmentation in normal skin, a finding that may be
Funding sources: None.
Reprints not available from the authors. important in the pathogenesis of melasma.3
Correspondence to: Amit G. Pandya, MD, Department of With the currently available data, a broad-
Dermatology, The University of Texas Southwestern Medical spectrum UVA- and UVB-protective sunscreen with
Center, 5323 Harry Hines Blvd, Dallas, TX 75390-9190. E-mail: an SPF of at least 30 along with a physical block, such
amit.pandya@utsouthwestern.edu.
as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, should be used by
0190-9622/$36.00
J AM ACAD DERMATOL Sheth and Pandya 701
VOLUME 65, NUMBER 4

patients with melasma and should be reapplied Table I. Agents under investigation to decrease
frequently. Patients should also be instructed to cutaneous hyperpigmentation
wear protective hats and clothing when outdoors Proposed mechanism of action Compound
and to practice sun avoidance when possible. While
Tyrosinase inhibition Hydroquinone
sunscreens alone for the treatment of melasma have
Mequinol
never been studied, their use is recommended based Azelaic acid
on clinical experience. Studies showing the impor- Arbutin and deoxyarbutin
tance of sunscreen use in melasma should be Licorice extract
performed in the future, which would ideally inves- Rucinol
tigate the minimum SPF and the action spectrum that Resveratrol
is relevant for melasma. 4-hydroxy-anisole
In addition, many patients find the use of camou- 2,5-dimethyl-4-hydroxy-
flage makeup to be an important component in the 3(2H )-furanone
treatment of their melasma. Several widely available N-acetyl glucosamine
Stimulation of keratinocyte Retinoids
brands include Dermablend (Vichy Laboratories,
turnover
Paris, France), Covermark/CM Beauty (CM Beauty,
Reduction in melanosome Retinoids, soybean trypsin
Northvale, NJ), and Cover FX (Cover FX Skin Care; transfer inhibitor
Toronto, Ontario, Canada). These brands come in a Interaction with copper Kojic acid
broad range of shades and offer heavy coverage to Ascorbic acid
help even out skin tone. Inhibition of melanosome Arbutin and deoxyarbutin
maturation
Topical treatments: The old and the new Inhibition of protease- Soybean trypsin inhibitor
activated receptor 2
Because melasma is a disorder of pigmentation,
Inhibition of plasmin Tranexamic acid
topical treatments are largely aimed at disrupting
Reduction of alpha Beta-carotene
the enzymatic processes of pigment production melanocyte-stimulating
within melanocytes. Tyrosinase is the rate-limiting hormoneeinduced
enzyme in the process of melanin production, melanin production
converting L-tyrosinase to L-3,4-dihydroxyphenyla-
lanine (L-DOPA), and is the major target for many
of the agents that have been developed for me-
lasma.8 L-DOPA is a required cofactor, and copper
is an important molecule that interacts at the alone and in combination with other agents is well
enzyme’s active site. Many compounds exhibit studied and well established. Hydroquinone is
multiple effects leading to a decrease in melaniza- thought to act by inhibition of tyrosinase, possibly
tion. The major agents in use and the predominant by binding to the enzyme or by interaction with
components they target are shown in Table I. copper molecules at the enzyme’s active site. This
leads to altered melanosome formation and in-
creased melanosome destruction,9 and perhaps
PHENOLIC COMPOUNDS
even the inhibition of DNA and RNA synthesis.10
Key points
The ability of hydroquinone to induce skin light-
d Hydroquinone, a tyrosinase inhibitor, has
ening in cats was first reported by Oettel11 in 1936.
been extensively researched and found to be
Not long afterward, hydroquinone became available
very effective in treating disorders of
as a topical agent in parts of the United States, where
hyperpigmentation
d While controversy exists regarding the use
it was noted to induce skin lightening in humans.12
Spencer13 performed one of the first studies using
of hydroquinone, a review of the literature
hydroquinone at concentrations of 2%, 3%, and 5%
indicates that hydroquinone is safe as a top-
applied twice daily for 3 months to the dorsal surface
ical agent for melasma
of the hands of white men with solar lentigines. The
Hydroquinone: The evidence and the
results revealed a dose-dependent decrease in pig-
controversy
mentation on clinical examination, with maximum
One of the earliest compounds used for the improvement after 2 months of treatment and re-
treatment of hyperpigmentation, hydroquinone lapse once treatment was stopped. Patients also were
(1,4 dihydroxybenzene) has been in use for more found to have a transient inflammatory reaction to
than 50 years. While controversy exists regarding the the medication, especially during the first 2 weeks of
long-term safety of hydroquinone, its efficacy both therapy. This last finding was confirmed in another
702 Sheth and Pandya J AM ACAD DERMATOL
OCTOBER 2011

study where up to 25% of patients treated with TX) that was brought to market as an investigational
hydroquinone were found to develop an irritant drug approved by the FDA after the performance of
dermatitis.14 Currently, other agents added to hydro- adequate clinical trials. Several reasons for this pro-
quinone, such as tretinoin and glycolic acid, are posed FDA ruling exist, including a concern over
responsible for most of the irritation from application systemic absorption of the drug, reports of exoge-
of these combination creams.15,16 nous ochronosis, and a concern for drug-induced
Comparing 4% hydroquinone to placebo for carcinogenesis. In the European Union, hydroqui-
melasma, Ennes et al17 found that 38% of patients none has been banned from use as a cosmetic
treated with hydroquinone had a complete clinical ingredient since 2001 because of a concern over
response versus only 8% in the placebo-treated group side effects such as ochronosis and occupational
(level of evidence II-i). In a nonrandomized trial, 4% vitiligo24; however, it is still available as a prescrip-
hydroquinone and broad-spectrum sunscreen was tion medication.
also shown to be efficacious in the treatment of One of the concerns regarding hydroquinone is
melasma, with 89.5% of subjects showing a good to the potential for risks from the production of ben-
excellent response18 (level of evidence II-iii). zene derivatives after hepatic metabolism.24 These
Over the last several years, concern has been derivatives are proposed to cause bone marrow
growing over the use of topical hydroquinone toxicity and exert an antiapoptotic effect. However,
preparations. This apprehension exists in large part topically applied hydroquinone bypasses the liver
because of perceived risks of therapy and a lack of initially, and the major route of metabolism of
good clinical data to justify the approval of many hydroquinone is via water soluble, renally excreted
currently marketed preparations according to new molecules.24 Another concern is the risk of develop-
federal guidelines in the United States. Several ing renal adenomas because of potentially toxic
reports of exogenous ochronosis, a bluish-gray dis- metabolites, but topical hydroquinone has not
coloration, have been linked to the use of hydroqui- been shown to have renal toxicity. In addition, there
none, especially in South African blacks.19 In the have been no reports to date of skin or internal organ
United States, the occurrence of ochronosis after use malignancies occurring in humans as a result of
of hydroquinone has been much less common.20 topical hydroquinone application, despite being in
One likely explanation for this phenomenon is the use since the middle of the 20th century.25
fact that hydroquinone can be obtained in higher Hydroquinone is a compound that is commonly
concentrations (up to 8%) in over the counter found in many foods and beverages, including
formulations in some countries outside the United berries, tea, coffee, red wine, wheat, and the skin
States. This uncontrolled access to high concentra- of pears. Workers involved in the manufacture of
tions of hydroquinone and overuse can increase the hydroquinone and who are exposed to large quan-
risk of adverse events related to the medication. In tities of this agent have not been found to have any
addition, these over the counter preparations may significantly increased risk of premature death or
contain various other ingredients, such as resorcinol, increased prevalence of malignancy compared to
mercury, lemon juice, potash, crushed camphor controls.25 Hydroquinone has not been found to be
balls, peroxides, and chlorates that may contribute carcinogenic in the Ames test. In addition, oral and
to the development of exogenous ochronosis.21 systemic injections of hydroquinone in animals did
The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) not lead to the formation of malignancies or cause
originally proposed in 1982 that hydroquinone was marrow toxicity.25
safe and effective enough to be sold over the counter In a review of hydroquinone safety issues,
in concentrations of 1.5% to 2%.22 However, in 2006, Nordlund et al25 maintained that there does not
the FDA announced that it would be changing its appear to be more than a theoretical risk of malig-
position, stating that currently marketed over the nancy and an exceedingly low risk of developing
counter preparations containing hydroquinone and ochronosis or other side effects in patients using
prescription products not originally studied as in- available prescription topical preparations of hydro-
vestigational drugs must be submitted with New quinone under the supervision of a physician.
Drug Applications with the requisite clinical studies
or be withdrawn from the market.23 The FDA has not Mequinol
yet moved to remove these products from the Mequinol (4-hydroxyanisole) is a phenolic agent
marketplace while awaiting comments regarding that is thought to act as a competitive inhibitor of
this ruling. The only preparation that this ruling tyrosinase without damaging melanocytes.26 This
would not affect is a triple combination cream compound has been approved for use in Europe
(TriLuma; Galderma Pharmaceuticals, Fort Worth, and the United States and is available in combination
J AM ACAD DERMATOL Sheth and Pandya 703
VOLUME 65, NUMBER 4

with topical retinoids. Although mequinol has been Topical 0.05% isotretinoin gel applied daily in
used as a tyrosinase inhibitor for hyperpigmentation, combination with SPF 28 sunscreen has been eval-
it has only been studied for lentigines,27 not me- uated in the treatment of melasma in Thai patients;
lasma. Therefore, a recommendation for melasma however, this agent did not show increased efficacy
cannot be made at this time. versus vehicle and sunscreen alone.32 Although
tazarotene has been reported to be useful for post-
inflammatory hyperpigmentation,33 there have been
RETINOIDS
no published reports of its use in the treatment of
Key points
melasma.
d Tretinoin is an effective treatment for me-
Adapalene, a synthetic retinoid with less irritancy,
lasma but often causes irritation and usually
has been tested for the treatment of melasma.34
requires months to show improvement as
Adapalene 0.1% was compared to 0.05% tretinoin in
monotherapy
the treatment of melasma in Asian Indian patients,
d Adapalene may be an alternative retinoid in
and after 14 weeks, investigators noted a 37%
patients who cannot tolerate tretinoin
reduction in Melasma Area and Severity Index
Several topical retinoids have been used with (MASI) scores in the tretinoin-treated group and a
some success in the therapy of melasma. The mech- 41% reduction in MASI scores in the adapalene-
anism of action is thought to involve stimulation of treated group. In addition, patients in the adapalene
keratinocyte turnover, decreasing melanosome group developed fewer side effects and found the
transfer and allowing greater penetration of other medication more tolerable for regular use. Although
active ingredients.28 Tretinoin has been commonly the degree of improvement was modest, adapalene
used in the treatment of disorders of hyperpigmen- may present a more tolerable and equally efficacious
tation. It is thought to inhibit tyrosinase transcription, retinoid for use in the long-term treatment of me-
interrupt melanin synthesis,29 inhibit tyrosinase- lasma (level of evidence, II-ii).
related proteins 1 and 2 (TRP-1 and TRP-2), and
has been shown to decrease posttranscriptional
COMBINATION PRODUCTS
levels of tyrosinase and TRP-1 after UVB exposure.28 Key points
A randomized, vehicle-controlled study of 0.1% d A combination of hydroquinone, a retinoid,
tretinoin versus vehicle cream applied nightly to and a topical steroid appears to be highly
the face of white women with melasma for 40 weeks
effective for the treatment of melasma
reported that 68% of tretinoin-treated patients were
rated as improved or much improved compared to One of the first combination topical therapies
just 5% of vehicle-treated patients.30 All patients used developed for the treatment of hyperpigmentation
regular photoprotection. Importantly, it took 24 was the Kligman-Willis formula,35 consisting of 5%
weeks to see significant improvement. Histology of hydroquinone, 0.1% tretinoin, and 0.1% dexameth-
treated lesions confirmed an average 36% epidermal asone. The authors found that 10% hydroquinone
pigment decrease in tretinoin-treated skin compared was more efficacious but more irritating, 0.2% tret-
to a 50% increase in epidermal pigment in vehicle- inoin was more irritating without being more effec-
treated skin. Dermal pigment was unaffected. tive, 0.05% tretinoin was less irritating but required a
Surprisingly, colorimetry showed a much more longer treatment time to see beneficial effects, and
modest benefit from the use of the tretinoin cream. dexamethasone could be increased to 0.2% with
The most common side effects were erythema and enhanced activity without much change in irritancy.
desquamation, seen in 88% of treated subjects (level The researchers also found that fluorinated steroids
of evidence, I). were more effective than nonfluorinated steroids.
A similar study in African American subjects with The time to see benefit with twice daily usage was
melasma treated with 0.1% tretinoin cream nightly in approximately 3 weeks. One theory behind the
addition to the use of regular photoprotection effectiveness of this combination of agents is that
revealed similar efficacy, with an initial benefit also tretinoin prevents the oxidation of hydroquinone
seen after 24 weeks of treatment.31 Erythema and and improves epidermal penetration while the top-
desquamation were observed in 67% of patients ical steroid component reduces irritation from the
treated with tretinoin cream (level of evidence, I). other two ingredients and decreases cellular metab-
Given the longer treatment time needed to see a olism, which inhibits melanin synthesis.36
clinical benefit and the frequent occurrence of irri- Since this discovery, other dual and triple agent
tation, tretinoin may not be very useful as mono- therapies have been studied. Dual combination
therapy for melasma. topicals tested include hydroquinone plus retinoic
704 Sheth and Pandya J AM ACAD DERMATOL
OCTOBER 2011

acid37 and hydroquinone plus retinol.38 While both Another combination that has been tested is 0.05%
studies showed moderate improvement with gener- tretinoin, 0.05% triamcinolone acetonide, 6% hydro-
ally tolerable irritant effects, one other important quinone, and 0.1% ascorbic acid used nightly with
finding was that the concomitant use of regular daily photoprotection in an open-label study.40 With
photoprotection of at least SPF 15 increased the this combination, three out of six Hispanic patients
efficacy of topical therapy significantly (level of with epidermal or mixed melasma had clinical
evidence, II-iii). improvement.
One of the most successful combination formu- While efficacious, the cost of combination topicals
lations has been 4% hydroquinone, 0.05% tretinoin, can sometimes be prohibitive. However, a recent
and 0.01% fluocinolone acetonide. This combina- cost/benefit analysis of combination therapy versus
tion was initially studied in a large number of hydroquinone alone in melasma patients found that
melasma patients in a multicenter, investigator- the use of a triple-combination agent daily as com-
blinded, randomized prospective trial in which pared to twice daily use of hydroquinone actually led
nightly use of the triple combination cream was to a 30% greater rate of clearance with a lower cost in
compared to nightly use of dual-combination the United States.41 In other countries, the cost to
creams containing either hydroquinone plus treti- achieve clearance was also lower for triple-
noin, hydroquinone plus fluocinolone, or tretinoin combination therapy than for single agent treatment
plus fluocinolone.25 All patients also used regular with hydroquinone. This analysis took into account
photoprotection with an SPF 30 sunscreen. The the added cost of adverse events related to medica-
investigators found that after 8 weeks, 26.1% of tion use and other therapies used subsequently in
patients using the triple-combination treatment patients who failed to clear on the evaluated treat-
achieved complete clearance versus 9.5% for hydro- ments (level of evidence, I).
quinone plus tretinoin, 1.9% for tretinoin plus
fluocinolone, and 2.5% for hydroquinone plus Summary
fluocinolone. In addition, 77% of patients on the Topical therapy with a triple combination agent
triple-combination agent achieved complete or appears to be the most clinically effective initial
near-complete clearance as compared to a maxi- therapy for patients with melasma. Hydroquinone
mum of 46.8% of patients achieving this same goal 4% in conjunction with regular photoprotection,
on the dual-combination regimens. Of note, all although less effective, is a good alternative to a
ratings were based on investigator’s subjective rat- triple combination agent. Retinoids as monotherapy
ings. The outcome measure of clear or almost clear are unlikely to be as efficacious as the above agents
is a reasonable goal for patients; therefore, a result of and require significantly more time before results are
77% of patients achieving success supports the use visible.
of this combination cream. Side effects of treatment
occurred in the majority of patients, and included Other commonly used topical agents
erythema, desquamation, burning, dryness, and In addition to the compounds just discussed, there
pruritus; however, the severity was rated as mild in are several other agents that are available in topical
most patients. Because irritation may lead to the preparations for the treatment of cutaneous hyper-
development of postinflammatory hyperpigmenta- pigmentation (see Table I). Some of the more com-
tion in patients with darker skin types, a decrease in monly used agents that have undergone clinical trials
frequency of application is a reasonable approach to are presented below.
those who develop irritation (level of evidence, I). Azelaic acid. Azelaic acid is a 9-carbon dicar-
More recently, a trial comparing this triple- boxylic acid derived from Pityrosporum ovale that
combination product with 4% hydroquinone alone acts as a weak reversible competitive inhibitor of
was performed.39 The investigators found that in tyrosinase.42,43 This molecule may have cytotoxic
addition to regular photoprotection, the daily use of and antiproliferative effects on melanocytes, possi-
the triple-combination therapy led to 35% of subjects bly by interfering with mitochondrial respiration and
achieving an investigator rating of clear for melasma DNA synthesis in abnormal melanocytes.44 Another
severity as compared to 5.1% of patients who were possible mechanism of action includes decreased
treated with twice daily 4% hydroquinone—again free radical formation. The most commonly reported
confirming the superiority of this combination cream side effects of preparations containing azelaic acid
over hydroquinone alone. It is important to note that include pruritus, mild erythema, scaling, and
the investigators were not blinded, which may have burning. It has been shown to be safe for use in
caused bias. In addition, no objective outcome combination with retinoids.26 In a randomized
measures were used (level of evidence, II-ii). double-blind multicenter trial comparing 20% azelaic
J AM ACAD DERMATOL Sheth and Pandya 705
VOLUME 65, NUMBER 4

acid versus vehicle in patients with Fitzpatrick skin ascorbic acidetreated side).51 However, colorimetric
types IV to VI with at least moderate melasma, analysis showed no difference between treatments.
investigator ratings showed a significantly greater Ascorbic acid caused significantly less irritation than
improvement in the azelaic acidetreated group.45 hydroquinone; therefore, it may be a useful adjunc-
Chromameter measurements of pigment intensity tive treatment in patients who cannot tolerate
showed small but statistically significant decreases hydroquinone because of side effects (level of evi-
in pigment intensity in the treatment group com- dence, I).
pared to the control group. Of note, patients treated Arbutin/deoxyarbutin. Arbutin is a beta-D-
with azelaic acid with dermal melasma were ex- glucopyranoside derivative of hydroquinone that is
cluded from the analysis. In comparison to hydro- derived from Uva ursi folium (the bearberry plant)
quinone, 20% azelaic acid has been shown to have and can also be found in cranberry and blueberry
greater efficacy than 2% hydroquinone in a 6-month leaves.26,52 Its mechanism of action is inhibition of
study46 and to be equally as efficacious as 4% tyrosinase and 5,6-hydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid
hydroquinone in a 24-week double blind trial47 (DHICA) polymerase and inhibition of melanosome
(level of evidence, I). maturation. The synthetic deoxyarbutin is a more
Kojic acid. Kojic acid is a molecule produced by potent tyrosinase inhibitor and in guinea pig and
Aspergilline oryzae and Penicillium spp.42 It acts as human tests has been shown to be more effective
a tyrosinase inhibitor that works by chelating copper more rapidly.53 Deoxyarbutin was shown to be as
at the enzyme’s active site. This agent is usually effective in inhibiting mushroom tyrosinase as hy-
available over the counter in a 2% concentration. It is droquinone, and deoxyarbutin-induced skin light-
important to keep in mind that kojic acid is a known ening of solar lentigines was actually maintained
sensitizer.26 Studies examining the efficacy of kojic without the use of maintenance therapy, whereas
acid in melasma have shown mixed results. In one hydroquinone-induced skin lightening was not sus-
split-face trial comparing a glycolic acid/kojic acid tained.53 It has been used in Japan at 3% concentra-
preparation to a glycolic acid/hydroquinone prepa- tions, but a higher concentration may cause
ration, the authors found no statistically significant paradoxical hyperpigmentation.26 These agents
difference between the two formulations in terms of have not been reported in the the treatment of
clinical efficacy, and the kojic acidecontaining melasma (level of evidence, II-i).
preparation was more irritating to patients.48 Licorice extract. Licorice extract inhibits tyro-
Another split-face trial examining a gel containing sinase, especially the rate-limiting first step of oxi-
glycolic acid and hydroquinone showed more im- dation.42 The active ingredients are liquiritin (which
provement in patients applying a gel that also disperses melanin) and isoliquiritin (which contains
contained kojic acid (60%) versus a gel that con- flavonoids). Licorice extract also has topical antiin-
tained only glycolic acid and hydroquinone flammatory properties. A split-face trial treated 20
(47.5%)49 (level of evidence, II-i). women with epidermal melasma diagnosed with a
Ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid, otherwise known Wood lamp examination with liquiritin cream to
as vitamin C, is thought to decrease pigment by one half of the face and vehicle cream to the other
interacting with copper at the active site of tyrosinase side twice daily for 4 weeks along with sun avoid-
and by reducing dopaquinone by blocking dihydro- ance or sunscreen. Sixteen of 20 patients had a
chinindol-2-carboxyl acid oxidation.20,26 However, clinically graded excellent response (defined as no
this molecule is rapidly oxidized, highly unstable, difference between lesional and normal skin) on
and does not work well alone; it is therefore usually the liquiritin-treated side.54 In contrast, only one
combined with licorice extracts and soy to increase patient showed a moderate clinical response on the
efficacy. In vitro studies have shown that vitamin C control-treated side. Patients generally use 1 g per
can significantly inhibit mushroom tyrosinase.50 day for 4 weeks before any benefit is seen26 (level
Using iontopheresis with vitamin C in a 12-week of evidence, II-i).
randomized double-blind split-face study, Korean Soy. Soybean trypsin inhibitor reversibly inhibits
women with melasma reported a noticeable im- the protease-activated receptor-2 (PAR-2) pathway
provement on the vitamin Cetreated side, but there that is needed for melanosome transfer by keratino-
was no long-term follow-up to determine the dura- cyte phagocytosis of melanosomes.55 In vitro and
tion of these effects. In another randomized trial, animal studies show that activation of the PAR-2
patients who applied 4% hydroquinone cream to pathway enhances melanosome ingestion by kerat-
one side of the face and 5% ascorbic acid cream to inocytes, but direct keratinocyteemelanocyte con-
the other noted greater subjective improvement in tact was required for this to occur.56 Inhibition of
the hydroquinone-treated side (93% vs. 62.5% on the this pathway caused a dose-dependent loss of
706 Sheth and Pandya J AM ACAD DERMATOL
OCTOBER 2011

pigmentation by as early as 4 weeks at the highest shown to decrease melanin formation in a dose-
tested dose. Additional work on this pathway has dependent fashion using melanin assays in mouse
shown that soybean trypsin inhibitor (STI) and B16 and human melanoma cell lines.59
BowmaneBirk inhibitor (BBI) can inhibit both base- In clinical studies, glycolic acid peels have shown
line and UVB-induced pigmentation in vitro.57 This modest benefit. A dose-response trial studying the
was caused in part to the inhibition of keratinocyte effect of varying concentrations of glycolic acid
phagocytosis of melanosomes. In a multiagent com- peels for melasma showed that 52.5% glycolic acid
parative trial in patients with solar lentigines, soy applied for 3 minutes led to clinical improvement,
extract was shown to have a modest effect in light- whereas lower concentrations did not.60 Another
ening the lesions.58 However, no trials in melasma open study performed in Indian females with me-
patients have been published to date, making it lasma treated with sun protection involved the use
difficult to directly compare the efficacy of soy to of 10% glycolic acid lotion nightly for 2 weeks
other well studied compounds. followed by monthly 50% glycolic acid facial peels
for 3 months.61 The authors found that patients with
Summary mixed or epidermal melasma showed a decrease in
Azelaic acid may represent a useful second-line MASI score by the end of the study (level of
topical therapy in patients who do not tolerate or do evidence, II-iii).
not have access to preparations containing hydro- Glycolic acid has also been examined as an
quinone. Ascorbic acid may also be a useful adjunc- adjunct to other topical treatments. When used in
tive topical therapy. Kojic acid may give modest combination with a modified Kligman-Willis formula
improvement for melasma, but it often causes irrita- (5% hydroquinone 1 0.05% tretinoin 1 1% hydro-
tion. Soy inhibition of the PAR-2 pathway provides a cortisone acetate), it was shown to decrease the
novel approach to treating melasma, but clinical MASI score by 79.9%, but the topical formula
trials are needed to better determine its efficacy. performed almost as well when used alone in this
Additional studies are needed to determine the role study, showing a 63.1% decrease in MASI score.62
of arbutin/deoxyarbutin and licorice extract in the Side effects in this study included erythema and
treatment of patients with melasma. desquamation, and two patients developed post-
inflammatory hyperpigmentation (level of evidence,
CHEMICAL PEELS II-iii). A similar trial evaluated patients with epider-
Key points mal melasma treated with azelaic acid plus adapa-
d Glycolic acid may be the most efficacious lene with half of the group additionally treated with
alpha hydroxyl peeling agent for melasma, glycolic acid peels of increasing concentrations ev-
but it should be used cautiously ery 2 weeks.63 The investigators found that the group
d Glycolic acid peels should be used in con- treated with peels in addition to topicals had an 83%
junction with a depigmenting agent for max- decrease in MASI scores as compared to a 69%
imal benefit and to minimize the risk of decrease in the group using topicals alone. Glycolic
postinflammatory hyperpigmentation acid has also been studied as an adjunct to hydro-
d Salicylic acid peels appear to be of minimal quinone in a split-face trial where the authors
benefit in the treatment of melasma found no additional benefit to chemical peeling in
terms of Mexameter readings, reduction in MASI
Although chemical peels may improve disorders scores, or blinded physician global assessments.64
of hyperpigmentation by removing unwanted mel- Pretreatment with hydroquinone 2% for 2 weeks
anin, they can also cause irritation, which can lead to before performing a glycolic acid peel has been
postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. This side ef- shown to enhance improvement when compared to
fect is especially common in patients with darker peels alone.65
skin types; therefore, peels or any other procedure Based on the current evidence, glycolic acid peels
causing injury to the skin should be performed with are best used judiciously and as adjunctive therapy in
extreme caution in patients with melasma. refractory cases of epidermal melasma. The evidence
that they are effective is mixed.
Alpha hydroxy acid peels Lactic acid peels have shown some benefit in
Glycolic and lactic acids are food-derived alpha patients with epidermal melasma, with MASI scores
hydroxy acids often used in chemical peels for decreasing by almost 57% in Fitzpatrick skin photo-
disorders of hyperpigmentation. They are thought type IV patients with no relapse seen at the 6-month
to work by inhibiting tyrosinase activity in a pH- follow-up visit in a trial that was not controlled or
independent manner. These agents have been split-faced in design66 (level of evidence, II-iii).
J AM ACAD DERMATOL Sheth and Pandya 707
VOLUME 65, NUMBER 4

Salicylic acid peels Jessner solution has also been tested against lactic
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that has been acid peels in a split-face nonrandomized blinded
studied as a treatment for melasma and postinflam- trial71 in which no statistically significant difference
matory hyperpigmentation resulting from acne. In a in MASI reduction was seen between the two treat-
small open study by Grimes,67 patients with ments. TCA in varying concentrations led to a greater
Fitzpatrick skin phototypes V and VI with melasma, than 50% improvement by clinical grading in 11 of 20
acne, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, and oily patients, but there was no comparison group.72 One
skin were pretreated with 4% hydroquinone for 2 common confounding factor is the variation be-
weeks before undergoing salicylic acid peels every 2 tween trials of pre- and postpeel regimens and the
weeks for a total of five treatments (two 20% and use of concomitant topical therapies and photo-
three 30% peels), with the hydroquinone restarted 2 protection. Also, in the Jessner solution trial,70 of the
days after each peel. Clinical response as measured five patients who returned for the 6-month follow-up
by independent investigators revealed that four of visit, only those who had continued topical therapy
the six patients with melasma had moderate to sustained their results, while the rest of the subjects
significant improvement. In the group as a whole, had disease relapse. Until further evidence is pre-
it took an average of two peels before any improve- sented, the addition of chemical peels to depigment-
ment was seen. Adverse effects were seen in four ing agents may not add any long-term benefit in
patients and were mild, including transient hyper- patients with melasma (level of evidence, II-i).
and hypopigmentation and temporary dryness or
crusting. No permanent pigmentary changes were
LASER AND LIGHT THERAPIES
seen by the end of the study, but there was no long-
Key points
term follow-up (level of evidence, II-iii). Another d Q-switched ruby lasers and erbium:yttrium-
trial in Korean patients with acne and resulting
aluminum-garnet lasers have been shown to
postinflammatory hyperpigmentation revealed that
worsen melasma
treatment with 30% salicylic acid peels every 2 weeks d The combination of carbon dioxide laser
for 3 months showed no statistically significant
with Q-switched Alexandrite laser does not
posttreatment benefit when measured by spectro-
appear to be beneficial for melasma and
photometry68 (level of evidence, II-iii). Salicylic acid
carries a significant risk of worsening hy-
therefore appears to provide minimal benefit when
perpigmentation in darker-skinned patients
used alone and, based on the above pilot studies, it is d Fractional resurfacing is approved by the
difficult to discern if it adds any additional benefit to
FDA for the treatment of melasma and has
the more traditional hydroquinone. Additional stud-
been shown to have some benefit; however,
ies with this agent are warranted.
additional controlled trials are needed to
evaluate its efficacy for melasma
Summary d Intense pulsed light therapy may provide
Glycolic acid peels in increasing concentrations modest benefit as an adjunctive therapy for
may be a useful adjunct to topical therapy, especially refractory patients
if patients are pretreated with hydroquinone for 2 d Copper bromide lasers may be of benefit for
weeks before the procedure. However, given the risk melasma, especially in patients with a visible
of postprocedure hyperpigmentation, a thorough vascular component, but require further
discussion of the risks and potential benefits should study
be undertaken with the patient before treatment.
Lactic acid peels have not been studied well enough The use of laser and light therapy for melasma is
to recommend their use at this time. Salicylic acid based on several observations: (1) melanin has a
peels have not been shown to add any significant broad absorption spectrum, allowing a variety of
benefit to topical therapy alone in melasma patients lasers and light sources to be used; (2) melanosomes
and do not appear to be effective as monotherapy. have a short thermal relaxation time, in the range of
Other chemical peels. Other agents that have 50 to 500 nanoseconds; and (3) longer wavelengths
been used for chemical peeling include 1% tretinoin, penetrate deeper to ostensibly target dermal pig-
Jessner solution (composed of salicylic acid, lactic ment, but melanin absorption is better with shorter
acid, resorcinol, and ethanol), and 10% to 50% wavelengths.73 This therapeutic modality is more
trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels. Tretinoin69 and challenging because damage to surrounding tissue
Jessner solution70 peels have not been shown to be and subsequent inflammation can lead to postin-
any more efficacious than glycolic acid in clinical flammatory hyperpigmentation, which may be long-
studies, although tretinoin may be less irritating. lasting and even delayed in onset. Therefore, lasers
708 Sheth and Pandya J AM ACAD DERMATOL
OCTOBER 2011

and light-based therapies should be used after other alexandrite laser, which can penetrate even deeper
modalities have been proven to be unsuccessful and and remove dermal pigmentation. Theoretically, the
should be used with extreme caution in Fitzpatrick CO2 laser has minimal downward thermal conduc-
skin phototypes IV to VI. tion, thereby decreasing the risk of developing
Some of the first types of lasers studied for the postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Nouri et al77
treatment of pigmented skin lesions were the tested eight patients with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes
Q-switched lasers. In one trial studying the effects IV to VI with dermal melasma who were pretreated
of the Q-switched ruby laser for melasma and post- with 14 days of 0.05% tretinoin cream, 4% hydroqui-
inflammatory hyperpigmentation refractory to other none cream, and 1% hydrocortisone cream twice
treatments, the authors noted no improvement and, daily. Four patients were randomized to receive spot
in some cases, worsening with laser treatments treatment with one pass of the CO2 laser, followed by
regardless of fluence.74 Histologic sections of biopsy a pass of the Q-switched alexandrite pigmented dye
specimens taken before and after treatment showed laser. The other four patients received treatment with
extracellular melanin immediately after treatment. one pass of the CO2 laser alone. Using blinded
Several months after the last treatment, epidermal subjective investigator evaluation as the primary
pigmentation was back to baseline levels and dermal endpoint, the authors felt that the combination
melanophages were focally increased. In a split-face therapy led to better resolution of the treated area
trial studying the effectiveness of the Q-switched with less peripheral hyperpigmentation of the trea-
ruby laser versus a erbium:yttrium-aluminum-garnet ted area. However, the sample size was small, as was
(erbium:YAG) laser for treating various pigmented the area being treated, limiting the generalizability of
lesions, the investigators found that the three study these results (level of evidence, IV).
patients being treated for melasma were the only In Thailand, researchers performed a split-face
participants who did not have improvement. In fact, trial studying the efficacy of the Q-switched alexan-
the melasma patients developed postinflammatory drite 755-nm laser (Accolade; Cynosure, Chelmsford,
hyperpigmentation and worsening as a result of United Kingdom) with or without one pass of the
therapy.75 Given these results, the Q-switched lasers Ultrapulse CO2 laser (Coherent, Palo Alto, CA).78 The
are not a recommended form of therapy for patients authors found that of the six females with Fitzpatrick
with melasma (level of evidence, II-iii). skin phototypes II to V with refractory melasma who
were treated, there was no statistically significant
Erbium:yttrium-aluminum-garnet difference between the two modalities at the end of
The erbium:YAG laser (Continuum Biomedical, the study. Importantly, three patients with Fitzpatrick
Dublin, CA) emits at 2940 nm and targets water as its skin phototypes IV to V had postinflammatory
chromophore and is therefore useful for ablative hyperpigmentation on both sides at 2 to 4 weeks
resurfacing. Manaloto et al76 tested the erbium:YAG lasting up to 3 months, and one patient had transient
laser in 10 patients with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II hypopigmentation lasting 6 months. Given the risk
to V who had refractory melasma. Using MASI scores of postoperative dyspigmentation, the authors con-
and spectrophotometry, the authors found that there cluded that neither modality was safe enough to
was improvement immediately after the procedure, recommend for routine use for melasma in the
but all patients developed postinflammatory hyper- Southeast Asian population (level of evidence, II-ii).
pigmentation by 3 to 6 weeks’ follow-up despite the
use of oral steroids for 5 days postprocedure. While Fractional resurfacing
the postinflammatory hyperpigmentation improved Fractional resurfacing is a newer technology that
with serial glycolic acid peels, this side effect appears creates microzones of thermal damage. It does not
to outweigh any benefit from this procedure (level of cause full-thickness epidermal wounds, so recovery
evidence, II-iii). is more rapid and, theoretically, the resulting inflam-
mation and dyspigmentation is less of a risk. This
Carbon dioxide and Q-switched alexandrite laser is approved by the FDA for the treatment of
The pulsed CO2 laser also targets water as its melasma, periorbital rhytides, pigmented lesions,
chromophore and can be helpful in removing epi- skin resurfacing, acne scars, and surgical scars.79
dermal pigmentation. The Q-switched alexandrite The microthermal zones of injury limit the area of
laser emits at a longer wavelength than some other skin that is damaged with each treatment, which may
Q-switched lasers (755 nm) and therefore penetrates decrease the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmen-
deeper into the skin. Some authors have evaluated tation. In addition, the transepidermal elimination of
the combination of the CO2 laser, which can remove these microthermal treatment zones after injury
epidermal pigment, followed by the Q-switched could serve as an effective method of removing
J AM ACAD DERMATOL Sheth and Pandya 709
VOLUME 65, NUMBER 4

dermal melanophages. One clinical trial evaluated 10 wear broad-spectrum sun protection and avoid
patients with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes III to V bleaching creams. A spectrophotometer was used
treated with a fractionated laser (Fraxel; Reliant to measure both the melanin index and erythema
Technologies, Palo Alto, CA) for four to six sessions index on the highest point of the cheekbones, and
1 to 2 weeks apart.80 None of the patients were MASI scores were calculated. Mean MASI scores
pretreated with hydroquinone. The authors found dropped significantly, from 15.2 to 5.2 after four
that six out of 10 patients had 75% to 100% clearing of sessions and to 4.5 at the 3-month follow-up visit.
melasma based on clinical evaluation only, and the Epidermal melasma responded better than the
nonresponders were all Hispanic patients. One mixed type. The melanin index as measured by the
patient developed postinflammatory hyperpigmen- Mexameter dropped from a mean value of 140.8 to a
tation, and several patients had transient postproce- value of 119; the erythema index dropped signifi-
dure erythema. The average pain score was 6.3 out of cantly as well. The most common side effects in-
10, 10 being equivalent to a bee sting, and all patients cluded temporary erythema and edema, microcrust
went through the procedure with topical anesthesia sloughing after 7 to 10 days, and postinflammatory
alone. This trial had a small sample size, and a hyperpigmentation in three patients (level of
longer-term follow-up would be helpful in assessing evidence, II-iii).
the risk of delayed postinflammatory hyperpigmen- The addition of IPL therapy to hydroquinone and
tation; however, the results are promising, and sun protection has also been investigated. A group of
additional studies are warranted (level of evidence, Taiwanese women with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes
II-iii). III to IV and mixed melasma by UV photography
Another small trial looked at the histopathologic were randomized to receive treatment with hydro-
effects of fractional laser technology on melasma.81 quinone plus a broad-spectrum sunscreen or the
The authors treated 10 patients with epidermal same regimen and four sessions of IPL given 4 weeks
melasma who had Fitzpatrick skin phototypes III to apart.83 Using a spectrophotometer, the authors
IV every 2 weeks for four sessions. Biopsy specimens calculated a relative melanin index (defined as the
were obtained before treatment and 3 months after difference between the melanin index of lesional
the final treatment, and they were instructed to avoid skin and the melanin index of normal skin). The
depigmenting agents but to use sunscreen. After patients who received additional treatment with the
treatment, lesional skin showed a decrease in the IPL had a 39.8% decrease in the relative melanin
number of epidermal melanocytes and fewer en- index after four treatments (16 weeks). In the control
larged melanocytes on electron microscopy; how- group receiving topical therapy alone, there was
ever, there was no correlation between histologic only an 11.6% decrease in relative melanin index
improvement and investigator-rated improvement. after 16 weeks. At 24 weeks posttreatment, the
Importantly, no postinflammatory hyperpigmenta- improvement on the IPL-treated side had fallen to a
tion was seen 3 months after therapy was completed mean of 24.2%, suggesting the need for maintenance
(level of evidence, II-iii). treatments. Side effects of the IPL included some
Summarizing the reports above, fractional laser crusting lasting 1 to 2 weeks and transient post-
therapy is the only laser treatment for melasma that inflammatory hyperpigmentation in two patients
has been approved by the FDA, and it has shown resolving with hydroquinone (level of evidence, I).
promising results. Given the risk for hyperpigmen- Overall, IPL appears to give modest improvement as
tation, some authors suggest using lower fluences, an adjunctive therapy in patients with melasma
variable pulses, and pretreating all patients with refractory to topical therapy alone and may be useful
hydroquinone for up to 6 weeks before laser ther- in patients who do not mind the 1- to 2-week
apy, especially in patients with a history of post- recovery time.
inflammatory hyperpigmentation.79
Copper bromide laser
Intense pulsed light Copper bromide lasers can produce two wave-
Intense pulsed light (IPL), a nonlaser light source lengths of light that may be emitted separately or
that emits light with wavelengths between 515 and together. The 511-nm green beam is used to treat
1200 nm, has been studied alone and in comparison pigmentary lesions, while the 578-nm yellow beam is
with hydroquinone for the treatment of melasma. In used to treat vascular lasers. In a recent pilot study,
one study, 89 Asian females with predominantly 10 Korean women with mixed or epidermal melasma
mixed melasma unresponsive to topical therapy and were treated with a copper bromide laser emitting
chemical peels were treated with IPL every 3 weeks both wavelengths simultaneously at 2-week intervals
for a total of four sessions.82 They were instructed to for a total of 8 weeks.84 MASI scores decreased
710 Sheth and Pandya J AM ACAD DERMATOL
OCTOBER 2011

Table II. Managing melasma


Alternative agents
Primary agent (strength of recommendation) (strength of recommendation)
First-line Triple combination products containing hydroquinone, a Azelaic acid (A)
retinoid, and a fluorinated steroid once daily (A), OR
hydroquinone 4% twice daily for up to 6-month periods (A)
Adjunctive treatment Ascorbic acid (C) Kojic acid (B)
Second-line Glycolic acid peels every 4-6 wks starting at 30% and
increasing in concentration as tolerated (B)
Third-line Fractional laser therapy (C) Intense pulsed light (B)

It is recommended that all patients use regular broad-spectrum photoprotection and practice sun avoidance.

modestly from an average of 12.3 pretreatment to 9.5 treatments, laser and light therapies should be con-
at the 1-month posttreatment follow-up. Using a sidered third-line treatments in severe refractory
chromameter, the authors noted measurable light- patients who have not responded to topical prepa-
ening of lesional skin after treatment, but the effects rations or chemical peels and who are willing to
appeared to wane slightly at the 1-month posttreat- accept the risks of these procedures.
ment follow-up. The same findings were seen when
erythema was measured. Clinically, three patients
were noted to have recurrence at the 6-month ON THE HORIZON
posttreatment follow-up. The histologic examination Because no panacea for melasma has yet been
of lesional skin before and 3 months after treatment found, investigators continue to search for novel
showed decreased levels of basal layer melanin and inhibitors of melanin synthesis. Several new com-
fewer melanosomes in the epidermis after treatment, pounds are being studied as possible treatments of
suggesting some longer-term benefit. In addition, melasma. Rucinol, a derivative of resorcinol that
CD34 staining for blood vessels showed a decrease inhibits tyrosinase and TRP-1 in a dose-dependent
in the number and size of dermal vessels after manner in B16 mouse melanoma cells, has been
treatment. Staining for vascular endothelial growth shown in a vehicle-controlled, split-face, double-
factor was also decreased in keratinocytes posttreat- blind randomized trial to have a modest effect on
ment, indicating some effect of the laser on vascu- epidermal and mixed melasma lesions in patients
larity within treated lesions. It is significant to note with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes III to V.85
that none of the 10 patients exhibited scarring or Interestingly, broad-spectrum sun protection alone
dyspigmentation from treatment. Copper bromide used on the control side also showed a significant
lasers therefore seem relatively safe and at least benefit (level of evidence, I).
moderately effective for melasma in Asian patients Tranexamic acid, also known as trans-4-amino-
(level of evidence, II-iii). Additional studies in other methylcyclohexanecarboxylic acid, is a plasmin in-
patient populations will help determine the gener- hibitor and lysine analog that has been shown to
alizability of these results. Split-face trials comparing prevent UV-induced pigmentation in guinea pigs.86
this modality to other lasers will also help determine In keratinocytes, it prevents the binding of plasmin-
if the added capability of treating vascularity in ogen to keratinocytes, which leads to less free
lesional skin is of benefit in the treatment of arachidonic acid and subsequent decreased produc-
melasma. tion of prostaglandins. This in turn leads to a
decrease in tyrosinase activity in melanocytes. Of
note, topical tranexamic acid can cause allergy or
Summary irritation, so newer liposomal delivery systems have
Fractional laser therapy appears to be the most been created to improve tolerability. Intradermal
promising laser or light treatment for melasma; tranexamic acid injections have been investigated in
however, there is still a long-term risk of postproce- 100 patients with Fitzpatrick skin phototypes IV to VI
dure hyperpigmentation and a possible need for and mixed or dermal melasma.87 Investigators found
maintenance therapy. IPL treatment may also pro- that changes in MASI were statistically significant
vide modest benefit as an adjunctive treatment. (mean MASI 13.22 at baseline compared to 7.57 after
Copper bromide lasers may also be beneficial in a 12 weeks of weekly injections), but clinically signif-
select population of patients, but larger studies are icant improvement was not seen until 4 weeks of
needed before this therapy can be widely recom- treatment. No long-term follow-up was performed
mended. Given their cost and the need for multiple (level of evidence, II-iii).
J AM ACAD DERMATOL Sheth and Pandya 711
VOLUME 65, NUMBER 4

Beta-carotene is a structural analogue of vitamin still unclear if chemical peels or laser and light sources
A that decreases melanin production and is under significantly improve these patients, but there have
investigation for use in treating disorders of hyper- been a few promising developments in the use of
pigmentation. One such study evaluated a topical procedures for melasma. Newer treatment modalities
beta-carotene lotion formulated in nanothalospheres on the horizon are a cause for optimism in the
in addition to broad-spectrum sunscreen, barrage management of this chronic and recalcitrant disorder.
oil, and wheat germ oil.88 This was applied
twice daily for 8 weeks in 31 patients with only one REFERENCES
mild case resolving, 10 out of 13 moderate cases 1. Morton CA, McKenna KE, Rhodes LE. Guidelines for topical
showing improvement, and 10 out of 12 severe cases photodynamic therapy: update. Br J Dermatol 2008;159:
showing lightening. No controls or objective mea- 1245-66.
surements were used in this analysis; it is difficult to 2. Pathak MA, Riley FC, Fitzpatrick TB. Melanogenesis in human
skin following exposure to long-wave ultraviolet and visible
draw firm conclusions about this agent (level of light. J Invest Dermatol 1962;39:435-43.
evidence, II-iii). 3. Mahmoud BH, Hexsel CL, Owen MR, Liu Y, Kollias N, Lim HW,
Another promising agent is 2,5-dimethyl-4- et al. Impact of long wavelength UVA and visible light on
hydroxy-3(2H)-furanone (DMHF). Using B16 mela- melanocompetent skin. Presented in poster form at the 2008
noma cells, DMHF has been shown to decrease American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery Meeting,
Kissimmee, FL, April 2-6, 2008.
alpha melanocyte-stimulating hormone (a-MSH)e 4. Mahmoud BH, Hexsel CL, Hamzavi IH, Lim HW. Effects of
induced melanin content and tyrosinase activity visible light on the skin. Photochem Photobiol 2008;84:450-62.
without being cytotoxic.89 Even more intriguing are 5. Lakhdar H, Zouhair K, Khadir K, Essari A, Richard A, Seite S,
the findings that DMHF can inhibit production of et al. Evaluation of the effectiveness of broad-spectrum
microphthalmia- associated transcription factor and sunscreen in the prevention of chloasma in pregnant women.
J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2007;21:738-42.
tyrosinase, reduce the production of TRP-1 (but not 6. Khadir K, Amal S, Hali F, Nejjam F, Lakhdar H. Les signes
TRP-2), and block a-MSHeinduced increases in dermatologiques physiologiques de la grossesse. Ann Derma-
melanin in normal human melanocytes. No pub- tol Venereol 1999;126:15-9.
lished clinical trials are available. 7. Vazquez M, Sanchez JL. The efficacy of a broad-spectrum
Future studies using gene analysis, proteomics, sunscreen in the treatment of melasma. Cutis 1983;32:92, 95-6.
8. Gupta AK, Gover MD, Nouri K, Taylor S. The treatment of
and other technologies may unlock the mechanisms melasma: a review of clinical trials. J Am Acad Dermatol 2006;
of hyperpigmentation in melasma, which could lead 55:1048-69.
to more effective preventive strategies and thera- 9. Jimbow K, Obata H, Pathak M, Fitzpatrick TB. Mechanism of
peutic agents. depigmentation by hydroquinone. J Invest Dermatol 1974;62:
Trials in melasma are fraught with many limita- 436-49.
10. Briganti S, Camera E, Picardo M. Chemical and instrumental
tions, including a lack of standardization in metho- approaches to treat hyperpigmentation. Pigment Cell Res
dology, heterogeneity in the study population, 2003;16:101-10.
variability in sun protection and other concomitant 11. Oettel H. Hydroquinone poisoning. Arch Exp Pathol Pharmacol
therapies, and severity of melasma, which can cause 1956;183:319-62.
difficulty in selecting the appropriate therapy in the 12. Fitzpatrick TB, Arndt KA, el-Mofty AM, Pathak MA. Hydroqui-
none and psoralens in the therapy of hypermelanosis and
clinical setting. There is also tremendous variation in vitiligo. Arch Dermatol 1966;93:589-600.
the use of controls, randomization, and blinding, 13. Spencer MC. Topical use of hydroquinone for depigmentation.
bringing into question the validity of the conclusions JAMA 1965;194:114-6.
of such studies. Endpoints in many trials are often 14. Haddad AL, Matos LF, Brunstein F, Ferreira LM, Silva A,
subjective, which is especially problematic when Costa D Jr. A clinical, prospective, randomized, double-blind
trial comparing skin whitening complex with hydroquinone
investigators are unblinded. In addition, for studies vs. placebo in the treatment of melasma. Int J Dermatol
involving chemical peels, laser therapies, or light 2003;42:153-6.
therapies, the practice of pretreatment with depig- 15. Taylor SC, Torok H, Jones T, Lowe N, Rich P, Tschen E, et al.
menting agents is not standardized. Ideally, future Efficacy and safety of a new triple-combination agent for the
trials for melasma therapies will incorporate the use treatment of facial melasma. Cutis 2003;72:67-72.
16. Guevara IL, Pandya AG. Safety and efficacy of 4% hydroqui-
of randomization and controls—such as a split-face none combined with 10% glycolic acid, antioxidants, and
design, the regular use of sun protection, and the use sunscreen in the treatment of melasma. Int J Dermatol 2003;
of validated outcome measures, both subjective 42:966-72.
and objective—to better determine response to 17. Ennes SBP, Paschoalick RC, Mota de Avelar Alchorne M. A
treatment. Based on the current evidence, broad- double-blind, comparative, placebo-controlled study of the
efficacy and tolerability of 4% hydroquinone as a depigment-
spectrum UV and visible light protection and avoid- ing agent in melasma. J Dermatol Treat 2000;11:173-9.
ance and topical depigmenting agents appear to be 18. Amer M, Metwalli M. Topical hydroquinone in the treatment of
the most useful therapies for melasma (Table II). It is some hyperpigmentary disorders. Int J Dermatol 1998;37:449-50.
712 Sheth and Pandya J AM ACAD DERMATOL
OCTOBER 2011

19. Kramer K, Lopez A, Stefanato C, Phillips TJ. Exogenous 40. Guevara IL, Pandya AG. Melasma treated with hydroquinone,
ochronosis. J Am Acad Dermatol 2000;42:869-71. tretinoin, and a fluorinated steroid. Int J Dermatol 2001;40:210-5.
20. Lawrence N. Exogenous ochronosis in the United States. J Am 41. Cestari T, Adjadj L, Hux M, Shimizu MR, Rives VP. Cost-
Acad Dermatol 1988;18:1207-11. effectiveness of a fixed combination of hydroquinone/
21. Olumide YM, Akinkugbe AO, Altraide D, Mohammed T, tretinoin/fluocinolone cream compared with hydroquinone
Ahamefule N, Ayanlowo S, et al. Complications of chronic alone in the treatment of melasma. J Drugs Dermatol 2007;6:
use of skin lightening cosmetics. Int J Dermatol 2008;47: 153-60.
344-53. 42. Kim Y-J, Uyama H. Tyrosinase inhibitors from natural and
22. US Department of Health and Human Services, Food and Drug synthetic sources: structure, inhibition mechanism and per-
Administration. Skin bleaching drug products for spective for the future. Cell Mol Life Sci 2005;62:1707-23.
over-the-counter human use; proposed rule. 71 Federal Reg- 43. Nazzaro-Porro M. Azelaic acid. J Am Acad Dermatol 1987;17:
ister 51146-5115521 (2006) (codified at 21 CFR x310). 1033-41.
23. Levitt J. The safety of hydroquinone: a dermatologist’s re- 44. Fitton A, Goa KL. Azelaic acid. A review of its pharmacological
sponse to the 2006 Federal Register. J Am Acad Dermatol 2007; properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne and hyperpigmen-
57:854-72. tary skin disorders. Drugs 1991;41:780-98.
24. Westerhof W, Kooyers TJ. Hydroquinone and its analogues in 45. Lowe NJ, Rizk D, Grimes P, Billips M, Pincus S. Azelaic acid 20%
dermatology—a potential health risk. J Cosmet Dermatol cream in the treatment of facial hyperpigmentation in
2005;4:55-9. darker-skinned patients. Clin Ther 1998;20:945-59.
25. Nordlund JJ, Grimes PE, Ortonne JP. The safety of hydroqui- 46. Verallo-Rowell VM, Verallo V, Graupe K, Lopez-Villafuerte L,
none. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2006;20:781-7. Garcia-Lopez M. Double-blind comparison of azelaic acid and
26. Draelos ZD. Skin lightening preparations and the hydroqui- hydroquinone in the treatment of melasma. Acta Derm
none controversy. Dermatol Ther 2007;20:308-13. Venereol Suppl (Stockh) 1989;143:58-61.
27. Fleischer AB Jr, Schwartzel EH, Colby SI, Altman DJ. The 47. Bali~
na LM, Graupe K. The treatment of melasma. 20% azelaic
combination of 2% 4-hydroxyanisole (Mequinol) and 0.01% acid versus 4% hydroquinone cream. Int J Dermatol 1991;30:
tretinoin is effective in improving the appearance of solar 893-5.
lentigines and related hyperpigmented lesions in two 48. Garcia A, Fulton JE Jr. The combination of glycolic acid and
double-blind multicenter clinical studies. J Am Acad Dermatol hydroquinone or kojic acid for the treatment of melasma and
2000;42:459-67. related conditions. Dermatol Surg 1996;22:443-7.
28. Ortonne JP. Retinoid therapy of pigmented disorders. Derma- 49. Lim JT. Treatment of melasma using kojic acid in a gel
tol Ther 2006;19:280-8. containing hydroquinone and glycolic acid. Dermatol Surg
29. Romero C, Aberdam E, Larnier C, Ortonne JP. Retinoic acid as 1999;25:282-4.
modulator of UVB-induced melanocyte differentiation. In- 50. Choi YK, Rho YK, Yoo KH, Lim YY, Li K, Kim BJ, et al. Effects of
volvement of the melanogenic enzymes expression. J Cell vitamin C vs. multivitamin on melanogenesis: comparative
Sci 1994;107:1095-103. study in vitro and in vivo. Int J Dermatol 2010;49:218-26.
30. Griffiths CEM, Finkel LJ, Ditre CM, Hamilton TA, Ellis CN, Voorhees 51. Espinal-Perez LE, Moncada B, Castanedo-Cazarez JP. A
JJ. Topical tretinoin (retinoic acid) improves melasma. A double-blind randomized trial of 5% ascorbic acid vs. 4%
vehicle-controlled, clinical trial. Br J Dermatol 1993;129:415-21. hydroquinone in melasma. Int J Dermatol 2004;43:604-7.
31. Kimbrough-Green CK, Griffiths CEM, Finkel LJ, Hamilton TA, 52. Picardo M, Carrera M. New and experimental treatments of
Bulengo-Ransby SM, Ellis CN, et al. Topical retinoic acid chloasma and other hypermelanoses. Dermatol Clin 2007;25:
(tretinoin) for melasma in black patients. Arch Dermatol 353-62.
1994;130:727-33. 53. Boissy RE, Visscher M, deLong MA. DeoxyArbutin: a novel
32. Leenutaphong V, Nettakul A, Rattanasuwon P. Topical isotret- reversible tyrosinase inhibitor with effective in vivo skin
inoin for melasma in Thai patients: a vehicle-controlled clinical lightening potency. Exp Dermatol 2005;14:601-8.
trial. J Med Assoc Thai 1999;82:868-75. 54. Amer M, Metwalli M. Topical liquiritin improves melasma. Int J
33. Grimes P, Callender V. Tazarotene cream for postinflammatory Dermatol 2000;39:299-301.
hyperpigmentation and acne vulgaris in darker skin: a 55. Rendon M, Berneburg M, Arellano I, Picardo M. Treatment of
double-blind, randomized, vehicle-controlled study. Cutis melasma. J Am Acad Dermatol 2006;54(5 suppl):S272-81.
2006;77:45-50. 56. Seiberg M, Paine C, Sharlow E, Andrade-Gordon P, Costanzo
34. Dogra S, Kanwar AJ, Parsad D. Adapalene in the treatment of M, Eisinger M, et al. The protease-activated receptor 2 regu-
melasma: a preliminary report. J Dermatol 2002;29:539-40. lates pigmentation via keratinocyte-melanocyte interactions.
35. Kligman AM, Willis I. A new formula for depigmenting human Exp Cell Res 2000;254:25-32.
skin. Arch Dermatol 1975;111:40-8. 57. Paine C, Sharlow E, Liebel F, Eisinger M, Shapiro S, Seiberg M.
36. Lynde CB, Kraft JN, Lynde CW. Topical treatments for melasma An alternative approach to depigmentation by soybean
and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Skin Therapy Lett extracts via inhibition of the PAR-2 pathway. J Invest Dermatol
2006;11:1-6. 2001;116:587-95.
37. Pathak MA, Fitzpatrick TB, Kraus EW. Usefulness of retinoic 58. Hermanns JF, Petit L, Pierard-Franchimont C, Paquet P, Pierard
acid in the treatment of melasma. J Am Acad Dermatol 1986; GE. Assessment of topical hypopigmenting agents on solar
15(4 pt 2):894-9. lentigines of Asian women. Dermatology 2002;204:281-6.
38. Grimes PE. A microsponge formulation of hydroquinone 4% 59. Usuki A, Ohashi A, Sato H, Ochiai Y, Ichihashi M, Funasaka Y.
and retinol 0.15% in the treatment of melasma and post- The inhibitory effect of glycolic acid and lactic acid on melanin
inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Cutis 2004;74:362-8. synthesis in melanoma cells. Exp Dermatol 2003;12(suppl 2):
39. Cestari TF, Hassun K, Sittart A, de Lourdes Viegas M. A 43-50.
comparison of triple combination cream and hydroquinone 60. Gupta RR, Mahajan BB, Garg G. Chemical peeling—evaluation
4% cream for the treatment of moderate to severe facial of glycolic acid in varying concentrations and time intervals.
melasma. J Cosmet Dermatol 2007;6:36-9. Cosmetology 2001;67:28-9.
J AM ACAD DERMATOL Sheth and Pandya 713
VOLUME 65, NUMBER 4

61. Javaheri SM, Handa S, Kaur I, Kumar B. Safety and efficacy of laser. A comparative study. J Dermatol Surg Oncol 1994;20:
glycolic acid facial peel in Indian women with melasma. Int J 795-800.
Dermatol 2001;40:354-7. 76. Manaloto RMP, Alster T. Erbium:YAG laser resurfacing for
62. Sarkar R, Kaur C, Bhalla M, Kanwar AJ. The combination of refractory melasma. Dermatol Surg 1999;25:121-3.
glycolic acid peels with a topical regimen in the treatment of 77. Nouri K, Bowes L, Chartier T, Romagosa R, Spencer JM.
melasma in dark-skinned patients: a comparative study. Combination treatment of melasma with pulsed CO2 laser
Dermatol Surg 2002;28:828-32. followed by Q-switched Alexandrite laser: a pilot study.
63. Erbil H, Sezer E, Tastan B, Arca E, Kurumlu Z. Efficacy and safety Dermatol Surg 1999;25:494-7.
of serial glycolic acid peels and a topical regimen in the 78. Angsuwarangsee SA, Polnikorn N. Combined ultrapulse CO2
treatment of recalcitrant melasma. J Dermatol 2007;34:25-30. laser and Q-switched alexandrite laser compared with
64. Hurley ME, Guevara IL, Gonzales RM, Pandya AG. Efficacy of Q-switched alexandrite laser alone for refractory melasma:
glycolic acid peels in the treatment of melasma. Arch split-face design. Dermatol Surg 2003;29:59-64.
Dermatol 2002;138:1578-82. 79. Rahman Z, Alam M, Dover JS. Fractional laser treatment for
65. Garg VK, Sarkar R, Agarwal R. Comparative evaluation of pigmentation and texture improvement. Skin Therapy Lett
beneficiary effects of priming agents (2% hydroquinone and 2006;11:7-11.
0.025% retinoic acid) in the treatment of melasma with 80. Rokhsar CK, Fitzpatrick RE. The treatment of melasma with
glycolic acid peels. Dermatol Surg 2008;34:1032-9. fractional photothermolysis: a pilot study. Dermatol Surg
66. Sharquie KE, Al-Tikreety MM, Al-Mashhadani SA. Lactic acid as 2005;31:1645-50.
a new therapeutic peeling agent in melasma. Dermatol Surg 81. Goldberg DJ, Berlin AL, Phelps R. Histologic and ultrastructural
2005;31:149-54. analysis of melasma after fractional resurfacing. Lasers Surg
67. Grimes PE. The safety and efficacy of salicylic acid chemical Med 2008;40:134-8.
peels in darker racial-ethnic groups. Dermatol Surg 1999;25: 82. Li Y-H, Chen JZS, Wei H-C, Wu Y, Liu M, Xu YY, et al. Efficacy
18-22. and safety of intense pulsed light in treatment of melasma in
68. Hyo HA, Kim I-H. Whitening effect of salicylic acid peels in Chinese patients. Dermatol Surg 2008;34:693-701.
Asian patients. Dermatol Surg 2006;32:372-5. 83. Wang CC, Hui CY, Sue YM, Wong WR, Hong HS. Intense pulsed
69. Khunger N, Sarkar R, Jain RK. Tretinoin peels versus glycolic light for the treatment of refractory melasma in Asian persons.
acid peels in the treatment of melasma in dark-skinned Dermatol Surg 2004;30:1196-200.
patients. Dermatol Surg 2004;30:756-60. 84. Lee HI, Lim YY, Kim BJ, Kim MN, Min HJ, Hwang JH, et al.
70. Lawrence N, Cox SE, Brody HJ. Treatment of melasma with Clinicopathologic efficacy of copper bromide plus/yellow laser
Jessner’s solution versus glycolic acid: a comparison of clinical (578 nm with 511 nm) for treatment of melasma in Asian
efficacy and evaluation of the predictive ability of Wood’s light patients. Dermatol Surg 2010;36:885-93.
examination. J Am Acad Dermatol 1997;36:589-93. 85. Khemis A, Kaiafa A, Queille-Roussel C, Duteil L, Ortonne JP.
71. Sharquie KE, Al-Tikreety MM, Al-Mashhadani SA. Lactic acid Evaluation of efficacy and safety of rucinol serum in patients
chemical peels as a new therapeutic modality in melasma in with melasma: a randomized controlled trial. Br J Dermatol
comparison to Jessner’s solution chemical peels. Dermatol 2007;156:997-1004.
Surg 2006;32:1429-36. 86. Maeda K, Naganuma M. Topical trans-4-aminomethylcyclohex-
72. Chun EY, Lee JB, Lee KH. Focal trichloroacetic acid peel anecarboxylic acid prevents ultraviolet radiation induced
method for benign pigmented lesions in dark-skinned pa- pigmentation. J Photochem Photobiol 1998;47:130-41.
tients. Dermatol Surg 2004;30:512-6. 87. Lee JH, Park JG, Lim SH, Kim JY, Ahn KY, Kim MY, et al.
73. Alster TS, Lupton JR. Laser therapy for cutaneous hyperpig- Localized intradermal microinjection of tranexamic acid for
mentation and pigmented lesions. Dermatol Ther 2001;14: treatment of melasma in Asian patients: a preliminary clinical
46-54. trial. Dermatol Surg 2006;32:626-31.
74. Taylor CR, Anderson RR. Ineffective treatment of refractory 88. Kar HK. Efficacy of beta-carotene topical application in me-
melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation by lasma: an open clinical trial. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol
Q-switched ruby laser. J Dermatol Surg Oncol 1994;20:592-7. 2002;68:320-2.
75. Tse Y, Levine VJ, McClain SA, Ashinoff R. The removal of 89. Lee J, Jung E, Lee J, Huh S, Boo YC, Hyun CG, et al. Mechanisms
cutaneous pigmented lesions with the Q-switched ruby laser of melanogenesis inhibition by 2,5-dimethyl-4-hydroxy-3(2H )-
and the Q-switched neodymium: yttrium-aluminum-garnet furanone. Br J Dermatol 2007;157:242-8.
714 Sheth and Pandya J AM ACAD DERMATOL
OCTOBER 2011

Appendix. US Preventive Services Task Force levels of evidence for grading clinical trials1
Level of evidence Quality of evidence
I Evidence obtained from at least one properly designed, randomized
controlled trial
II-i Evidence obtained from well designed controlled trials without
randomization
II-ii Evidence obtained from well designed cohort or case control analytical
studies, preferably from more than one center or research group
II-iii Evidence obtained from multiple time series with or without the
intervention; dramatic results in uncontrolled experiments could also be
regarded as this type of evidence
III Opinions of respected authorities based on clinical experience, descriptive
studies, or reports of expert committees
IV Evidence inadequate because of problems of methodology (eg, sample size
or length of comprehensiveness of follow-up or conflicts in evidence)
Strength of recommendations
A There is good evidence to support the use of the procedure
B There is fair evidence to support the use of the procedure
C There is poor evidence to support the use of the procedure
D There is fair evidence to support the rejection of the use of the procedure
E There is good evidence to support the rejection of the use of the procedure

You might also like