CELEBRATORY BUMPER 100TH ISSUE READERS TAKE-OVER!

Exploring the world’s most exciting continent

Edition 100 | May-July 2023 | travelafricamag.com

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Safari, your way.

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 Karibu Travel Africa is published quarterly by:
GECKO PUBLISHING LTD
12 The Butts, Aynho, Banbury, OX17 3AN,
United Kingdom (ISSN 1561-2783)

travelafricamag.com
facebook.com/TA.magazines
@Travelafricamag
One day in mid-1997 there was a knock on the door of my aunt and uncle’s travelafricamagazine
house in Oxfordshire. Responding to a promotional flyer, a retired doctor Tel +44 (0)1844 278883

had driven 20 miles to subscribe to our as-yet-unpublished magazine. Editorial editor@travelafricamag.com

It was an early indication of the ardor for Africa that has been shared by
readers since. Mike (the doctor) and his wife came to see us regularly at
various travel shows over the following years, where we also met many
more of our readers, a lot of whom we remain in regular contact with.
A deep passion for the continent binds us. We all know what dawn in
the bush smells like and what it means to miss the smell of the rain; we
appreciate that deep sense of quiet contentment you feel in camp after
nightfall, chatting in the firelight with your guide. Sharing this gives us our
purpose, and we are proud that in Travel Africa you have found a place to
indulge your fascination, to listen to Africa’s song when you are not there.
We love hearing from you, learning about your travels and what Africa
means to you. With this common interest, conversation flows easily. Like
when you meet fellow travellers around a lodge dining table, it is fun to get
to know everyone and hear your stories. You live in all corners of the globe,
Advertising partner@travelafricamag.com
Subscriptions service@travelafricamag.com
ABOUT Travel Africa aims to inspire, inform
and help people wanting to visit Africa.
We’re passionate about the wide diversity of
attractions, culture and wildlife that make this
the world’s most exciting continent. Whether
you’re a first-time visitor or an experienced
safari-goer we aim to give informed advice
and suggestions to help you plan your trip,
and hope to introduce you to new and unusual
places you might not have considered, while
giving greater insight to those that are more
familiar. As an independent publisher, we aim to
pull together diverse content and opinion from
the best writers, photographers and experts
that is not easily accessible elsewhere.
SUBSCRIBE Travel Africa is published quarterly.
In addition to the print magazine, digital
versions are available for your mobile device or
PC from your App Store, pocketmags.com or
zinio.com. For details on all options, or to place
an order, visit travelafricamag.com, email
service@travelafricamag.com or call
+44 (0)1844 278883.

yet you are connected through Travel Africa. We love that. WHY PRINT? We love the accessibility
provided by the Internet and publish a range
It was born of this that the idea came to dedicate our 100th issue to you, our of information on travelafricamag.com and
social media. But we also cherish the tangible
readers. All of the content in this issue has been supplied by you, or motivated feel of a good quality print product, which
provides the perfect platform for longer,
by you (a huge asante sana to all who took time to engage in the process!). We in-depth content that is better suited away
from a screen and which might lead you
have been so grateful for your support over the last 25 years, and it has been a somewhere unexpected.

lot of fun to give you the opportunity to add your voice to the conversation — ENVIRONMENT We care deeply about the
environment. We work closely with our
rather like gathering you all around the campfire to share your stories. You’re printer and distributors to minimise the
environmental impact of producing Travel
an interesting bunch of people. We should get together more often. Africa. Our printer is ISO 14001 accredited,
which is an international standard for
Environmental Management Systems.
All papers used are from FSC certified
managed forests.

DEDICATION To all those who have shared

this safari with us: family, founders, partners,
team members, contributors, advertisers
and, of course, readers. You’re the lifeblood.
CRAIG AND SHERRY RIX © 2023 Gecko Publishing Ltd. No part of this
magazine may be reproduced in any form or stored
without the prior permission of the publisher. While
every effort is made to ensure that the content of
Travel Africa is accurate, the publisher cannot accept
any responsibility for errors that may appear. Views of
the individual contributors are their own.

ON THE COVER Female leopard with one-year-old daughter, photographed on the plains
south of Aitong, in the Greater Maasai Mara, by longstanding subscriber Robert Wall.

6 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

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 Explore the path less trodden

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untamed landscapes, spectacular wildlife and unique cultures.

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2022
 Indaba 29
You know that time on safari
when you gather around the
campfire and drift into easy chat
with fellow campmates, getting to
know each other and sharing your

What’s inside
Issue 100 May-July 2023
stories? That’s what we do in this
section. You’re an interesting group.
It makes for a fun conversation.

30 Campfire tales:
Your experiences, your stories
49 Favourite places:
Something to get your Travel Africa @100 where you like to travel
teeth into: Crocodile
photographed at Zimanga 16 The story so far 72 Your self-drive experience
Private Game Reserve, 75 Your bucket list
Zululand, South Africa, 17 Cover stories
by subscriber Alf J Nilsen 86 Reader photo gallery:
(Norway) 22 Who are our readers? the pick of your pics

10 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

Safari 99 Conservation 129 Africa at home 141
Places to go. Plans to make. You care about wildlife and You don’t have to leave Africa
Lodges to choose. Trips to organise. communities — and want to help. in Africa. We look at the ways you
Questions that need answering. In this section we address some can bring the spirit of Africa into
Here we get stuck into some of the of your concerns and look at your everyday life.
practical issues on your mind. examples of organisations making
a positive difference.. 142 Keeping connected
100 Your travel tips 144 Africa in your home
102 Travel questions answered 130 The conservation landscape
148 Travel Africa Book Club:
106 Kids on safari? 132 Volunteering? The readers’ reading list
How to help without doing harm
108 Zimbabwe’s Eastern Highlands
134 Giving gracefully
112 Dream lodge
137 How I help: Readers who’ve got
116 Choosing a lodge: involved in conservation causes
with Amboseli as a case study
138 Overtourism:
122 Guide and joy: you salute those When is too much of a good thing,
who’ve brought the bush to life too much? The challenges facing
124 Quiz: could you be a guide? Africa’s most popular attractions

EXTRA: SUBSCRIBE TO OUR EMAIL NEWSLETTERS AT TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM 11







 



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SUBSCRIBE AT WWW.TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM 15
 The story so far….
Everything’s changed, yet nothing’s changed
In 1997 the internet was in its infancy and people still
gathered most of their travel ideas and advice from
newspapers and magazines. On the newsstand in the
UK at the time, there were four travel magazines (all still
going today) and thirteen on model railways! The only
real coverage Africa garnered was on the news, and that
was almost exclusively negative.
So we decided to launch Travel Africa in an
attempt to reassure people that the continent was
safer than they might think, and to showcase its
diverse natural and cultural heritage. The Africa being
portrayed in the media in the UK at that time was not
the Africa we knew and loved.
With a concept shaped over many family
chats, we rustled up the courage and enough
money to put together issue 1, working on a
@ 1 0 0
tiny laptop and Mac Performa in our spare
TA
room (and later a converted garage) in
Harare, Zimbabwe. That first issue took much
longer than we anticipated to produce — a
trend that continues to this day — but was finally
delivered to our aunt and uncle’s house in Oxfordshire.
The support of the wider family was invaluable,
bringing their varied skills and energy to make it all
happen — “It takes a village to raise a child”, after all.
None of us really knew what we were doing, but we
soon learned to appreciate that we were able to make
mistakes mainly because our readers were hugely
passionate about Africa, and therefore more forgiving!
At that time, the images were chosen from slides
shipped from libraries by courier. My professional
photographer friend, Eric Gauss, volunteered to look
after picture selection and we had many late, creative
nights challenging the merits of each and brainstorming
editorial angles. They were fun, pioneering days.
We would take our QuarkXpress files and scans
to a repro house, where colour-separated film of each
8-page section was played out and shipped to the
printers in the UK. On one occasion, we were late with
production and wanted to send about 2Gb of files over
the internet to the printer in the UK. Our service provider
was unable to help, saying it would use the entire
country’s bandwidth for 12 hours!
16 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
How times have changed. Today, living in the UK
(since 2002), full-fibre internet enables us to transfer
the whole magazine in a matter of minutes. Images are
downloaded from digital libraries the world over and
can be sent from photographers in the remotest of
dusty corners of Africa. Yet we still struggle to get the
magazine out on time!
The infiltration of the internet as an essential in our
lives now gives travellers immediate access to far more
information than they ever need. You can research
and book a trip without leaving your chair, and social
media allows you intimate access to any place you
want to go. It is a far cry from the late ‘90s, when we
would include tear-out reply-cards for readers
to request brochures to be sent in the post to
them from our advertisers.
Today we cherish our role in
complementing what the internet offers. We
provide context you might not find online,
collating insight from a host of experts and fellow
travellers, sowing the seeds for your research.
With a mag in hand, you can escape a screen and
enjoy long-form, quality writing — “slow journalism”
— to learn more about a place or people. And, most
significantly, whereas the internet is amazing for finding
answers to your questions, with the print magazine you
don’t know what will appear with every turn of the page.
It’s a discovery, an exploration, rather like a safari itself.
In that regard, nothing has changed since issue 1.
We continue to highlight Africa’s glorious diversity; to
introduce you to areas you might not have considered;
to help you learn more about the places and wildlife you
would like to see, and to offer you independent expert
advice to guide your planning.
In a world where we are now bombarded with
information on screens, there remains nothing quite
like paging through the magazine and losing yourself
in the sights and sounds of the world’s most exciting
continent. It brings us joy, every day.
Technology will continue to evolve, but there will
always be a benefit in having access to high quality,
well-researched, human-crafted writing shaped from
real-life experience.
 TA@100

Cover stories
How Travel Africa has evolved, and the key issues that shaped our thinking

Issue 1 + Summer 1997

Opened with Brian
Jackman’s ‘The attraction
of Africa’ — a masterpiece
that stands the test of
time. Parting Shot was
created on print day
because a story didn’t
come in on time; it has
stayed ever since.

Issue 4 + Summer 1998

“Is that the image of Africa
you should be portraying?”
The question, asked by a
student at a travel show,
sparked a discussion
about cultural tourism
and reminds us to this
day of our responsibility:
the decisions we make on
content influences how
people view Africa.

Issue 10 + Winter 1999

Around this time,
we started receiving
digital images and we
learned that one of
the pictures used in
this issue was a well-
Photoshopped merger
of two photos. We have
been particularly careful
about the authenticity of
the images ever since.

TEAM: FIVE PEOPLE HAVE EDITED TRAVEL AFRICA OVER THE LAST 25 YEARS | 17
 TA@100

Issue 20 + Summer 2002

Stephanie Debere’s
feature on eco-tourism
(then a new thing) earns
us a finalist nomination
at the British Media and
Environment Awards.
It gave us faith that
our content was good
enough to sit next to more
established magazines.

Issue 23 + Summer 2003

We had created Travel
Africa with no design
experience, so bringing
in an outside designer to
give it a more professional
look felt like progress. The
challenge was to reflect
the spirit of Africa we
knew, while appealing on
the newsstand.

Issue 28 + Summer 2004

Travel Africa 2.0. With new
investors and a change of
influence, we went back
to basics, following our
instinct and ultimately
abandoning much of the
recent redesign. It felt
good, like we should trust
our instincts and have
confidence in portraying
what Africa meant to us.

Issue 34 + Spring 2006

Securing an exclusive
interview with Sir David
Attenborough made
us feel very grown up;
that we might be taken
more seriously. His
handwritten thank you
note remains a treasured
reminder of impeccable
manners and courtesy.
What a legend.

18 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 TA@100

Issue 50 + Spring 2010

To mark the milestone,
we asked six of the very
best travel writers to
capture what makes
Africa so special. This
feature reassured us were
commissioning writers
with the skill to produce
exceptional content. It’s a
feature worth re-reading
regularly.

Issue 55 + Summer 2011

We’d never produced an
issue themed around one
idea. Choosing ‘rivers’
enabled us to link many
subjects and destinations,
framing travel in a wider
environmental context. The
process influenced future
issues. You don’t get this
sort of collective content
online, in one place.

TEAM: SIX DESIGNERS HAVE WORKED ON TRAVEL AFRICA OVER THE 100 ISSUES | 19
 TA@100

Issue 65+ Winter 2013/14

The first issue in a new
partnership with African
Wildlife Foundation,
who send a customised
version of this and future
issues of Travel Africa to
their core donors.

Issue 67 + Summer 2014

Travel Africa 3.0. It felt like
it was time for a refresh, to
bring the magazine up to
date. The design overhaul
included a change to the
current smaller format, a
more contemporary logo
and a rethink of editorial
structure.

Issue 80 + October 2017

For our 20th anniversary
we reflected on how travel
had changed since we
launched, and how it may
continue to evolve. It was
another reminder that the
magazine format lends
itself to a range of opinion
pieces and collaborative
thinking.

20 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 TA@100

Issue 84 + October 2018

Our third themed issue,
focusing on the wildlife we
come to see. This could
have been three times
this size. Packed with
fascinating insight and
tips, it remains one of our
best issues for safari-
goers — and a mag we are
particularly proud of.

Issue 90 + September 2020 Issue 87 + July 2019

Published during lockdown, Our first totally blind
this ‘green issue’ seemed commission appeared
particularly relevant. We here. “Write whatever
explored how tourism you want, using as many
makes such a positive words as you’d like.” Mike
difference to the wider Unwin’s highly personal
environment in Africa; ‘L-Word’ taught us we’d
to our forests, rivers and have much more varied
deserts. Probably our most content if we gave more
important issue. freedom to writers.

Issue 92 + April 2021

Born from correspondence
during lockdown, this issue
brought our readers into the
conversation in a way we
hadn’t previously embraced,
giving focus to why Africa
is important to us all. It
reminded us that we do this
for our readers, who should
have a greater voice.

Issue 95 + january 2022 Issue 94 + october 2021

With travel reopening, this When you edit during
issue aimed to explore lockdown, you find
the experience of actually yourself wandering into
being there, with advice unusual creative territory.
and inspiration to help you Bruce Springsteen fans
get the most out of your may have picked up a little
visit. We were conscious fun we had with this issue.
we were creating a
magazine that would have
timeless benefit.

Issue 98 + October 2022 Issue 99 + january 2023

The first of three ‘thank- Thinking about how the
you’ issues, issue 98 travel trade help us made
acknowledged the talent it easier to produce an
of our contributors. It was issue dedicated to our
nostalgic to reflect on those advertisers. They have an
who have brought Africa to extraordinary collective
life in our pages; a reminder knowledge, and working
of their skill in finding the with them was a reminder
words to describe what we that we should draw on this
feel when we are there. expertise more regularly.

MISSING ANY? FIND OUR AVAILABLE BACK ISSUES AT WWW.TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM | 21

 Who are you?
We’re blessed to have readers all over the world, many of whom have subscribed
for most of the magazine’s life. We meet four who have been with us from launch.

Tony Proud UK taking an interest in the

Times visited: 22
Country count: 12
Next up? Kenya and Tanzania
in September.
I keep returning to: Kenya.
Place I’d most like to go?
Rwanda.
‘Big Five’ or ‘Little Five?
Definitely ‘Big Five’.
Guided or self-drive? Guided;
but have done both.
Direct or through an operator?
Flights direct, but camps
through a trusted operator.
I miss… The smell, the sounds,
the landscape, the warmth of
the sun, the people and the
incredible wildlife.
I go back because… Africa is in my
blood. I am lost without my safari; I live
for it. It is my passion.
Best thing a guide ever said to me:
“Keep perfectly still.”
Biggest mistake? Taking the road from
Nairobi to the Maasai Mara — it’s a
bumpy, rough ride.
My advice for first-timers: Kenya is
best for a first-time safari — the animal
density is unrivalled and it is just eight
hours from the UK.
I never travel without: My camera.
close to a waterhole.
Strangest thing that’s happened on
safari: A vervet monkey stole my
mate’s headphones and put them on
its head.
Most embarrassing moment?
Needing a pee whilst watching lions, I
couldn’t hold on — very embarrassing!
Biggest surprise? A champagne
breakfast for me and my partner on
Lion Rock in Tsavo West. We were so
taken aback by the generosity. But
this happens on occasion — we have
had several treats of all kinds, just by
staff, who are unbelievably
helpful and kind.
Biggest anticlimax? The
long wait for a wildebeest
crossing, which didn’t
happen.
If I could bottle one
moment it would be…
More time with the
mountain gorillas in Bwindi.
Guilty pleasure? A couple
of gins at sundowners, then
drinks around a campfire.
You can’t beat that.
I most look forward to
seeing… African wild
dogs.
If I was an animal I would be: A
bateleur eagle — it is so beautiful,
and I would love to soar high above
the savannah.
Scariest moments: Lions fighting
outside my tent, and elephants mock-
charging our vehicle.
Biggest regret: Having to abandon
wild dogs hunting. We did not want
to leave, but were on the way to the
airstrip and had to catch our plane.

I KEEP READING TRAVEL AFRICA BECAUSE…

It fills my heart with the Africa I miss when I am at home in England. It is so colourful,
absolutely enthralling, so temptingly appetising.

22 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 Age of Travel Africa readers
2%
Under 35

Rosalind Low UK 14%

I’ve been to Africa…
About 30 times.
Countries visited: 10
Next up: Zimbabwe, in
October.
I keep returning to:
Zimbabwe and South
Africa.
Bucket list: Ethiopia.
Semi-permanent camp,
or mobile tented camp?
Semi-permanent camp.
Guided or self-drive?
Guided (but I enjoy both).
Direct or operator? South
Africa direct; the others
through an operator.
What got you interested
in the first place? My 50th
birthday desire to see
elephants.
Why do you go back? You
can leave Africa, but Africa
never leaves you. It gets
into your soul.
Memorable moment:
On our first visit, a night
with a full moon spent at
a waterhole at Linkwasha,
Hwange National Park,
remains engrained in my
memory.
Advice for newbies? 66+
Do not visit a touristy
destination with masses
32% 36-50
of visitors.
I never travel without:
Binoculars.
Most helpful thing in a
camp: A good guide.
51-65
Biggest surprise: How
beautiful Ruaha National 52%
Park in Tanzania is.
Biggest anticlimax? The
Maasai Mara.
If I could bottle one
moment it would be… An How often have you travelled to Africa?
elephant under an albida
tree in Mana Pools.
2%
Unexpected moment: Once every
four or I’ve never been to Africa
Coming across a venomous
more years
snake on a walk in the
Karoo, South Africa. 4%
Guilty pleasure: A G’n’T 10%
sundowner. I’ve only
Animal I most look forward visited
to seeing: Leopard. once
If I was an animal I would
be: An elephant.
I wish I could see: A
pangolin or aardvark. 43%
Reading Travel Africa has…
41%
Opened my eyes to all the
Once
amazing places to visit.
every
At least once
two or
every year
three years

What influences your choice of accommodation and destination?

19% 15% 21% 24% 4% 6% 8% 3%

Benefit to Price Solitude Easy access Food and Range of Environmental Relaxation
communities / and space to wildlife culture activities impact and wellness
conservation available activities

SHARE? WANT TO TELL US ABOUT YOURSELF? EMAIL EDITOR@TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM | 23

 Carrie Burhenn USA
How many times have you visited
Africa? Nine since 1998, when we took a
six-week overland tour across East Africa.
It was life-altering. When I graduated
from veterinary school and had more
money but less time, we took shorter,
more intensive safaris.
Country count: Eight.
Where next? In September 2025 we’ll
return to Mana Pools, then do a week at
Mashatu, in the Tuli Block in Botswana.
Favourite place? Mana Pools is magical.
We first took a canoe safari, but have had
some extraordinary sightings on foot,
including seeing lions take down seven
buffalo in seven minutes.
Bucket list: It is too hard to choose.
Chobe, Gonarezhou, Gorongosa,
Uganda, Namibia. Life is too short!
‘Big Five’ or ‘Little Five’? Lions are
my totem species (I am a veterinary
specialist in feline medicine) and I adore
all the big cats, but elephants are endless
entertainment. Then again, the little stuff
like tortoises, snakes and bushbabies are
all part of the wonder of a safari.
I’d love to see: A pangolin (since
watching Eye of the Pangolin).
Lodge or mobile camp? I feel so much
more alive in a mobile tented camp.
Guided or self-drive? It is worth all the
money to pay for a first-class guide who
knows how to get you to places to see
the wildlife.
Direct or tour operator? We have
booked eight trips with The Africa
Adventure Company.
What do you miss? The sounds of the
night. The whoo-whoop of a hyena, the
Urungh!Urungh!Urungh!ruh!ruh!ruh! of
a lion far away. The grating cough of a
leopard. The chirr of insects that form a
curtain of background sound around the
campfire. The soft wake-up call of your
guide. The ‘sound of silence’, when your
guide turns off the engine at night so
you can sit in complete silence.
24 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
Why go back? It is new and fresh
each time. We have never had the
same experience twice.
Scariest moment: We were on
foot with our very experienced
Zimbabwean walking guide, when
we surprised a hippo on a path. It
charged, mouth wide open, and we
ran! The guide was about to protect
us, but the hippo veered off into a
nearby pool with a heck of a splash.
Best advice: Do not pack a lot of
clothes. Bring good binoculars and
camera gear. If I had to give up one of
the two, I would keep the binoculars!
Advice to first-timers: Just go!
Experience the people, the sounds,
the smells, the animals...
I never travel without: Evacuation
and Travel Insurance. Thankfully, we’ve
never had to use either.
Most helpful thing in camp: A small,
powerful flashlight (or headlamp).
Biggest surprise: Realising how much
wildlife fears the silhouette of a human
on foot in the bush.
2% 2%
Africa South or Central America
Australia/New
7%
Zealand
19%
Europe
29%
United States/Canada
If I could bottle one moment, it
would be: Standing on the rim of the
Ngorongoro Crater in 1988 and looking
across the caldera, knowing it was filled
with animals.
Guilty pleasure: Reading Wilbur Smith at
bedtime. His earlier books are the best.
If I was an animal I would be… An
elephant. Elephants are long-lived and
have rich and varied social connections.
I really want to… Participate in a wildlife-
collaring project.
I wish… I had learned more of the local
languages so I could thank people in
their own words.
Reading Travel Africa has… Opened my
eyes to possibilities! Places and people I
knew nothing about. A travel guide tells
you how to get there, but Travel Africa
tells you what it is like.
Where do you live?
1%
Asia
41%
United
Kingdom
 When will you next travel to Africa?
Sometime in
the next two-
8%
to-four years
10%
16%
In the next
two years
William Dick UK
My travels: I lived in (now) Zimbabwe
from 1971-1973. Since then, have
visited over 20 times, going to seven
countries. Heading to Botswana and
South Africa (Kruger NP), later this year.
I keep returning to: Chobe National
Park, Botswana
Bucket list? Gonarezhou NP, Zimbabwe
Guided or self-drive? Self-drive
What do you miss? The absolute
peace, serenity and solitude of the wild
bush — “the sound of silence”.
Why do you go back? The continuing
sense of adventure; the mix of peace
and adrenaline surges in wild places.
Impactful moment: My first experience
of seeing Victoria Falls — to me, it sums
up the word “awesome”. I have revisited
over a dozen times.
Best thing a guide ever said? “TIA”,
meaning ‘This is Africa’ — used
whenever something strange or
frustrating happens. I use it myself now.
I never travel without: Identification
books for animals, birds, reptiles, trees.
No current
plans
66%
In the
next one
year
One thing I take but never use:
A smart jacket.
Most helpful thing in a camp:
Proper toilets!
Strangest encounter? Coming across
a well-dressed man (suit, collar and
tie) walking along the gravel road in
Hwange National Park. His car had
broken down a few miles away, and he
had decided to walk. This was the heart
of lion country! We gave him a lift to the
nearest gate.
Embarrassing moment:
Getting stuck in the Kalahari
sand in Chobe National Park
and finding there was no
shovel on board. The park
rangers had to dig/pull us out.
Biggest mistake I’ve made:
Not staying long enough.
Most difficult experience:
Being flagged down for
speeding by a policeman on
the Francistown to Kasane
road in Botswana. Money
was demanded. I asked to
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see the speed camera and it showed a
recorded speed of just 30mph — the
sergeant said it was broken! At that
point, I (wisely, I think) smiled and gave
the man a US$10 bill and was allowed
to carry on.
If I could bottle one moment it would
be… Sipping a gin and tonic while
watching a sunset on Lake Kariba.
I most look forward to seeing:
Elephants
If I was an animal I would be… A
honey badger — it seems that all other
creatures are scared of them.
Weirdest animal I’ve seen: A pangolin.
Scariest moment: I was travelling solo
in Zambezi National Park and, stupidly,
got out of my car to have a pee at
the side of the gravel road. Part-way
through, a lioness strolled out of the
bush, just 10 paces away, and stopped
and stared at me. I knew I had to keep
calm — making a sudden movement
would have been an invitation to attack.
So, I closed my eyes and counted
slowly to 10, then opened them. The
lioness had ignored me and carried on
across the road. Phew!
I wish I had… Done more walking
safaris.
Reading Travel Africa has… Opened
my eyes to other people’s experiences
and shared love of the continent; kept
me up to date with places and events
 ÑC on g ra t u l a t i o n s
T R A V E L A F R I C A M A G A Z I N E

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desertdelta.com Scan the QR Code to download the
Desert & Delta Safaris 40-year story of
empowering Botswana through tourism.
 Indaba
to dis cuss
a get- togeth er or me etin g, usu ally
In sou the rn Africa, an ‘ind aba ’ is you all
pages tha t foll ow, we are gathering
an imp orta nt issu e of the day. In the to you ,
r refl ection s on wha t Afr ica me ans
aro und the cam pfire to sha re you gro up.
urite pla ces . You ’re an inte resting
you r safa ri adventure s and you r favo
It ma kes for a fun conversati on.
by Fiona Seward:
Park, Zimbabwe, photographed
Wild dogs in Mana Pools National a short while, they started their pre-
ing these dogs resting. After
“Late one afternoon we were watch ng off. A wond erful 20 minutes which will stay
sneezing befor e headi
hunt ritual, dancing, playing and Pools knows no bounds.”
with me for life. My love for Mana
FIONA SEWARD

SAY HELLO: WILD DOGS GREET EACH OTHER WITH HIGH-PITCHED TWITTERING AND WHINING SOUNDS | 29
Indaba

campfire
Musings about your African adventures tales
IN THE WEE HOURS WA I T I N G GA M E
In 1994, there were just uncomfortably close One day on safari in Kenya with
five of us in a Unimog (an to us sitting around the wildlife photographer Randall Ball,
extreme off-road truck) on fire. Our guides made during a torrential downpour Randall
an adventurous camping it very clear that under announced it was time to photograph
trip from Johannesburg no circumstances “wet cats”. We soon discovered a
into Botswana and were we to go to the pride of lions and Randall instructed
Zimbabwe. After the ablutions block after us to “wait for it: the lion is going to
Makgadikgadi Pans, the dark; empty bottles and shake.” We sat poised and waited…
Okavango Delta and bowls were suggested Suddenly, the male shook his mane
Moremi, we came to for emergencies. We with huge circular motions, swirls of
Savuti Campsite in Chobe all survived the night — water surrounding him. This was an
National Park, which was although a washing-up important lesson. Knowing the habits
renowned for elephants bowl didn’t, and the braai of the animals you are photographing
stealing water from the grid was found in the river followed to the toilet by a can make the difference between a ho-
showers and for having 30 yards away. hyena. She had to throw hum picture and one worth framing.
lots and lots of hyenas. Later, we discovered a a stick at it to get back to Before this trip, I would have
The smell of cooking Japanese lady in our party her tent. Needless to say, missed that rain-sodden shake; the
attracted several had ignored the ‘don’t our guides were horrified. lions yawning in the rain; the serval’s
hyenas, who wandered go’ advice and had been ANDREW BUCKLEY, UK pounce; a cheetah licking her mate’s
face after a failed hunt; the flick of a
cheetah’s tail — and I would never have
It is the beautiful people and the amazing animals, the scenery sat in a dust storm for a one-in-a-million
and magnificent sunsets. When I arrive at the airport and picture of zebra and wildebeest.
When you go to Africa, go with
see all the people, it feels like I have come home. someone who feels the heart and soul
PHILLIPA GORDON, NEW ZEALAND of the animals; someone who feels the
pulse of Africa enough to impart that
excitement to you.
Nowhere on Earth do I feel more grounded, more free, ANNE SNOWDEN, USA

than among the landscapes and wildlife in Africa.

NICOLE BIGLER, SWITZERLAND

T H E E Y E S H AV E I T
It was 1966, our first night of our first safari. An A-frame tent, two camp beds, a canvas
wash basin and a shared loo tent. The night was strange, dark and noisy, with little
sleep, but despite crossed legs the loo tent beckoned. I unzipped the canvas to find eyes
watching me everywhere — help! I woke my husband, who was none too pleased to
ANN SNOWDEN

have to come with me. We laughed the next morning — slightly with relief — when our
guide told us the eyes were impala, not lion. Phew!
ELIZABETH DRAISEY, UK

30 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA


ALAN JEFFREY
D R E A M C AT C H E R
It had been a quiet morning, a
smattering of antelope and the odd
giraffe, though the Mara’s birdlife
had made up for the lack of game.
The steep incline of the Oloololo
escarpment had a dark moody
feel to it. I scanned its lower slopes
where we had seen lions a few days
earlier, hoping to see them again.
Through my binoculars I saw
movement: elephants, their huge
bodies momentarily blended with
the lighter areas of the escarpment.
Moving onto the plains, they picked
up pace; no animal is comfortable
out in the open, especially when
there are young with them.
More followed — we counted
about fifteen, though there were
other in the shadows along the
escarpment road. We had stopped
about five hundred metres away,
in the direction they were moving.
As they approached, they slowed
down and then paused, a little to
the left in front of us.
Apart from the plaintive call of a
rufous-naped lark and the rumbling
messages sent by the elephants, it
was as quiet as a monastic retreat.
As the herd went through the ritual
of reassuring the youngsters, we
When I arrive in Africa, I just feel a freedom.
MAUREEN DUNCAN, NEW ZEALAND
What Africa means to me…
One of our youngest readers…
THE ’AARDEST
A N I M A L TO F I N D
Do you know what an aardvark is? It is
one of the rarest animals to be spotted
on a safari. It is nocturnal and is very hard
to find. Every year I go with my family on
a wildlife vacation in India or Africa. I have
had many good sightings of big cats, and
other animals and birds. But my interest
has always been to find something
unique. Last year in April, I went to Kenya
and visited the Ol Pejeta Conservancy.
sensed a certain uneasiness among This was when my moment arrived. I
them. One or two of the older
finally went on a night safari. It was pitch
females were looking back towards
the escarpment. We could not see
dark. Our guide explained that there is
anything. Was it a predator? Was a rare animal named an aardvark, which
this why they were moving at pace? is really hard to find. He handed me a
Just then a deep rumble echoed spotlight and said: “Try your luck and
across the plain and in the distance show us something special.” For the next
we saw a small group of elephants
five minutes I couldn’t find anything, but
emerge from the escarpment’s
shadows, moving quickly towards I didn’t give up hope. In the last minute,
our herd. The occasional excited I saw something moving, something
trumpet rang out as they closed in, similar to the picture that my guide
and as they finally united there was showed us. We looked closer. I couldn’t
the ritual greetings among them.
believe it. It was indeed an aardvark!
We had ventured out later
than normal, partly to avoid the
While looking at it, I could feel that I was
initial rush of vehicles, and partly one of a million people who have found
because we had now taken a more that. But still there are a lot more safaris
relaxed approach to our safari. We to come later on, and I hope to have
had the Mara to ourselves and, at many more magical moments like this.
this moment, we could not think of
ABHISHEK MUKHERJEE, BANGALORE, INDIA, AGED 11
any more beautiful sight.
Suddenly it all went very quiet.
Then a low rumble broke the
silence as the herd moved on,
heading in the direction of the Mara
River. Smiling, almost childlike, we
watched them melt into the acacia
balanitis. These moments are what
dreams are made of.
ALAN JEFFREY, UK
ANINDYA MUKHERJEE
TRIVIA: THE GRANT’S GOLDEN MOLE IS CLOSELY RELATED TO AARDVARKS, HYRAXES AND ELEPHANTS | 31
Indaba

I N TO T H E
L I O N ’S D E N
It was in 1992 at Lloyd’s
Camp, Chobe NP, that I
nearly lost my guide to a

DON MATLOCK
lion. We were nearing the
end of a most enjoyable found himself staring into Our guide and tracker at andBeyond
supper when the guide the eyes of a fully-grown Ngala Safari Lodge, South Africa

went out to stoke the male lion, so close he could

campfire’s glowing embers.
A couple of minutes later
we were surprised to hear
running footsteps, and he
emerged at speed from the
darkness. Looking ashen-
faced and without a word,
he downed two very large
brandies, before gasping:
“That was the closest I’ve
ever been to death.”
It transpired he had
been on his haunches
seeing to the fire when he
sensed something behind
him. Looking round, he
feel its breath on his face.
Very, very slowly, he had
worked his way around the
fire, stood up, backed away
some more and then made
(rapidly) the twenty paces
back to the dining room.
Suitably recovered, he
said the lion had probably
just been inquisitive and had
likely moved on. So, with
no further ado, we walked
outside to sit around the
self-same campfire to have
our nightcaps and a chat.
BILL ATTWELL, UK
I T ’ S G O O D TO TA L K
Returning home after my latest trip through South Africa and
Zimbabwe, I realised that one of the primary reasons I have so
enjoyed staying at safari camps in Africa is the beautiful local
people who look after us at these wonderful venues. I have always
deliberately engaged with them, initially by way of having a laugh
together, so that they know they can relax with me. This has allowed
them to share their stories and aspirations, including about their
families and their goals in both their personal and business lives. In
turn, I have been able to share stories and advice with them. I now
realise that without these exchanges, my experiences would never
have been as rich and everlasting as they have been.
DON MATLOCK, AUSTRALIA

the poor creature, who had been just five

Up close and too personal
Forty years ago, my husband
and I were schoolteachers
in the newly independent
Zimbabwe. Back then, Mana
Pools was the place to see
black rhino — and we set off
there hoping we would be
lucky enough to spot one.
The black rhino is known
to be highly dangerous when
startled. It has a combination
of poor eyesight and excellent
hearing, which greatly
increased our chances of
disturbing one as we trudged
through the bush. Accordingly,
we heeded our guide’s
warnings to take great care
and, if one charges: “whatever
you do, don’t run!”
We were on high alert, but
as we proceeded through the
bush the only thing in sight
was a twitching impala doe,
her tail swishing away the flies.
After an hour, our walk was
bordering on boring, the sweat
trickling down my neck.
In the blink of an eye, the
quiet was shattered. A sleeping
rhino suddenly leapt to his feet
and charged! We had startled
been only 23 yards away (we
paced it out afterwards).
“Walk slowly back,“ advised
our guide.
“OK,” said my husband,
David, who had found himself
at the head of the group.
“Sure,” my brother and I
uttered, the gap between us
and David quickly widening.
With the gap rapidly
diminishing between David
and the cantankerous rhino,
the guide whistled shrilly and
shouted. The rhino turned
and disappeared into the
bush. The distance between
husband and rhino horn had
paces.
I was impressed
with the guide’s calm
and reassuring manner
and, trying to appear
calm myself, asked:
“Oh, is that what
you always do when
a rhino charges?”
He looked at me, the
worry lines not entirely
gone from his face. “I had to do
something – it was about to kill
one of my guests.”
CAROL EDDINGTON, AUSTRALIA
NB: THESE DAYS, GUIDING RULES ENSURE
AN ARMED GUIDE LEADS AT THE FRONT.

What do I miss? The red earth, nocturnal noises and morning porridge by the fire.
VALÉRIE HUKALO, FRANCE

32 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

DESTINY’S CHILD
I always dreamed of visiting the
motherland. Africa holds my DNA.
The people, the landscape, the
animals and the art are all akin to my
soul. The melody of the languages,
the eyes of the people (especially
the children) and of the animals are
now branded on my heart and mind.
Even six months after my journey,
my mind continues to display a daily
broadcast of the scenes, events and
people of Tanzania. Our safari driver
Paul Panga was a phenomenal
resource. Paul coloured our
adventure with a big, beautiful
smile, facts and stories
about life in the bush, the
people, the Serengeti and
its inhabitants. We were
dazzled. The journey was
life-changing. Now, I am
an improved version
of myself. Few people
witness life in Africa.
Few meet the chief of a
Maasai village, dance
with its residents and
get shown around a
traditional family hut.
Few see the Serengeti
from a hot-air balloon,
enjoying a bird’s eye view
of the great migration.
All of this was the result
of Safari Kay’s careful
planning; she makes
dreams come true.
CARLENE P. HUGHES, USA
CARLENE P HUGHES
 Indaba
FRANNIE THORBURN-POLO
MY AFRICA
My Africa is a land of diversity,
ancient cultures and kingdoms,
witchdoctors, rituals and potions;
it’s a land of drums, song and
dance, and where laughter and
chatter abound. It’s lush and rich,
full of birdsong, and a colourful
array of butterflies flittering
around. The vast savannahs are
home to majestic wildlife, and in
the rainforests an assortment of
primates swing and shriek.
My Africa is home to warm,
easy-going people, whose smiles
are wide and bright. As children,
we would escape from our ayahs
and take off to explore plantations
of matoke and banana trees,
and shambas where maize and
vegetables grow. Within these
plantations are homes built of mud,
wood and thatch, with compounds
swept clean where chickens roam
freely and excited children come to
greet you; where you are invited to
share their sweet, milky tea.
My Africa can be unpredictable,
frustrating, and chaotic. It does
34 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
What Africa means to me…
Young talent…
HUNTING WITH
THE HADZA
In 2014, my wife and I visited a
Hadza tribe still living a nomadic
hunter-gatherer’s life near Lake Eyasi,
Tanzania. After dining on baobab
seed soup for breakfast, it was time
for hunting. There was a 12-year-old
boy with a keen eye and excellent
bow skills. On the morning hunt
we went on, he shot six rodents
and several birds in just one hour.
Even baboons were on their menu,
judging by the skulls they keep for
decoration. I traded my knife for a
bow and three arrows, which are now
on the wall of my man cave.
FILIP CLAEYS, BELGIUM
not have a welfare system or an
abundance of laws; supportive
community and family are your
safety net. My Africa creates
and encourages people to think
outside the box, to make their own
decisions and be responsible for
their actions. It allows the freedom
FILIP CLAEYS
for unadulterated adventures.
My Africa has given me
a treasure chest of precious
memories. I am forever grateful
that it has taught me to be brave
and to find solutions when life goes
sideways. What Africa means to
me is freedom — freedom to take
responsibility for myself.
T H E X FAC TO R
My Africa is Uganda — ‘The My love for Africa encompasses
Pearl of Africa’, or ‘The Land of
the Elephant’, as we knew it in my
the space, stars, tastes, sights, smells,
time. I am so privileged to have sounds, storms, seas, sand, sunrises,
been born there, and to have had sunsets, heat, flora and fauna and
23 years filled with adventures of
all descriptions. Although my trunk a secret, magical, unquantifiable
was cut way back in 1978, my roots ingredient essential to every good recipe
remain forever resting in Uganda.
— all of which add up to happiness.
My Africa.
FRANNIE THORBURN-POLO, CANADA BRIDGET MEDLEY, UK
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Indaba
C H I L D’ S P L AY
The sun was peeping over the horizon.
At this time of day, the light brings a
sense of contentment and anticipation,
wondering what the morning will bring.
We were in Olare Motorogi Conservancy,
on the edge of the Maasai Mara, with our
guides James and Albert from Porini Lion
Camp, when we came across Selenkei,
a female cheetah. We’d seen her a few
times before with her three cubs, so it was
unusual to find her alone.
Scanning the plains, we spied the cubs
about 100 metres away. Then we spotted
a female impala. Selenkei had seen it too.
She crept forward; the antelope oblivious
to the oncoming threat.
Then, abruptly, Selenkei was off.
Her pace increased, her focus clear. The
impala, suddenly realising the impending
danger, began to run for her life but the
gap was closing. The anticipation of
witnessing a kill was tangible. Then, just
as suddenly, the impala stopped.
We glanced around, confused, before
realising that Selenkei had changed
There are many stunningly beautiful places in the world, and I have
seen some of them. But no others make me cry when leaving.
36 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
What Africa means to me…
direction to pursue a small impala calf. It is the smells, light,
The calf ’s cries were loud and the fear
people and animals that
palpable as the cheetah caught the
youngster. Its mother watched, helpless.
will grab your heart on your
The cubs waited for their mother first visit to Africa and those
to bring them their food. But it was not memories will stay with you
quite as they expected. Selenkei gently
for the rest of your life.
placed the still-alive calf in front of them
HAZEL MCNEILE, UK
and stood back. The impala looked
startled and unsure what to do, as did
the cubs. They stared at each other, then
playtime began. They rolled around
together, climbing on one another, and
it seemed the calf was unaware of the
danger. The largest cub occasionally took
No words can describe
it by the neck, but it was soon dropped, the feeling of the sun
unharmed. Selenkei remained in the appearing on the horizon,
background, watching. It was fascinating as the cold air wraps
to witness the young animals’ naivety.
After about 10 minutes, Selenkei
around your senses and
moved in to show them how it should be you tingle with anticipation
done. The fun was over. A lesson learned. of seeing your first wildlife.
JANET PRINCE, SWITZERLAND KAREN BENSON, UK
JANET PRINCE
ANN EARLY, USA
 Seeing the chimps in Kibale National Park, Uganda, was one of my best-ever
days on safari. The guide knew every single member of the chimp family so well,
told stories about each individual you could not imagine. It appeared he knew the
chimps better than any of his own family. It was a day with such intense feelings;
one I will never forget. I try to convince all my clients to go on the chimp habituation
experience because it changed the way I perceive them.
DANIELA EILETZ-KAUBE, SAFARI INSIDER, AUSTRIA

FACT: FEMALE CHIMPANZEES ONLY GIVE BIRTH ONCE EVERY FIVE YEARS | 37
 What Africa means to me…

MAKING
CONNECTIONS
I began my travels to Africa when I was 13, in
2004. Immediately, I was hooked: the sights,
sounds, the epic scale of everything, were all
completely fascinating. My parents had one of
the first DSLR cameras and this started my love
of photography.
Over the last 20 years, I’ve been incredibly
lucky to have been able to tag along on many
trips to Africa. We have been fortunate that my
parents’ best friend owns and runs Waterberry
Lodge on the banks of the Zambezi, outside
Livingstone, which has provided the perfect
base for our adventures. A highlight of each
has been seeing how involved my parents have
become with numerous community projects.
It started with support for a hospital in Mwandi,
Zambia, and has gone on to include community
funding, collecting medical equipment and
reading glasses, and helping local kids with
school supplies, among others.
Contributing to community projects and
forging friendships over the years has been a
VANESSA KRESS (2)

huge part of the magic of our adventures in

Africa. It made us feel like we were contributing
in some small way, when we ourselves got so
much from our visits. This year, I am heading to
Zambia for my first photography assignment —
a dream for that 13-year-old dragged away on
L E T ’ S G O FO R A WA L K holiday nearly 20 years ago.
Experiencing Africa on foot is such a thrill. Instead of
GUY SIGNY, UK
game drives, we often ask to go on bushwalks. At Leopard
Mountain Safari Lodge in Manyoni Private Game Reserve, Supporting the village football
team, the Tamanga Boys
South Africa, we had two amazing walks with our guide Ivar
(pictured), which left us exhausted but happy. And last year
we hit the Nyalaland walking trail in Kruger National
Park, and also had an intense experience, coming across
the biggest baobab we had ever
seen (above).
VANESSA KRESS, SWITZERLAND

T H I N G S T H AT G O B U M P I N T H E N I G H T
Of my many trips to Africa over the past 30 years, one really stands out. We stayed at Pom
Pom Camp (through Ker & Downey Botswana), where the tents are opposite a lake covered
with waterlilies. The camp manageress asked us one evening if we would like some adventure.
Of course, we agreed. During the night, hippos came out of the water to feed around our tent,
brushing against it and causing it to shake wildly. The next morning, she asked us if it was
enough adventure. “Oh, yes,” we replied!
HANS RAINER ALIC, MEERBUSCH, GERMANY

FEAR FACTOR: ELEPHANTS ARE AFRAID OF BEES AND ANTS, NOT MICE | 39
Indaba

Elephants appoaching a waterhole in Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

Take a long herd look

Four outstanding wildlife experiences come to mind — all involving elephants. In Kenya’s Samburu NP
we came across an elephant wake; watching as the herd walked around their departed relative, laying
their trunks over her. The following day, we saw another herd surrounding a new-born still covered
in its mother’s white afterbirth. Nearby, the ‘protective uncles’ started trumpeting and swaying their
trunks to warn us off. My scariest moment came in South Luangwa NP, when a large elephant walked
up to our vehicle and put a tusk under the front bumper. Fortunately, he decided not to lift us over. And
in Hwange NP we were surrounded on all sides by
hundreds of ellies coming down to drink at sunset.
KIT KABERRY, UK In the beautiful landscapes
of the African continent,
watching the wildlife go
about their business, I
SIMPLE PLEASURES am reminded that I am
All my safari experiences have been at lodges except for my last, which was a mobile totally irrelevant to their
tented safari in Botswana with Letaka Safaris, booked via Busanga Safaris. I found this
activities; they have no
experience incredibly immersive. The simple, basic style of living didn’t need any extra
bells and whistles because I was getting that by living directly in the environment, with need for me. In that one
mother nature as my guide and teacher. It was bliss to have no phone signal, and the moment I am merely a
outdoor bucket shower with the birds singing was novel! I would love to have more safari
adventures like this because it lights me up inside and touches my soul when I’m able to
privileged spectator of the
feel authentically at one with nature. I also really like it when there aren’t as many vehicles marvellous complexity of
around and it feels like the experience is something more exclusive. As an artist, I love to their existence, and my
soak everything up, so I enjoy taking photographs for future reference and also having
quiet, reflective time in the day to journal amongst the trees. heart sings.
TERESA ALLEN, UK RUTH MAXWELL, UK

40 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA


Once you have experienced Africa,
it will never leave you, for it is not
just ‘a place’, it is a feeling: it is
everything, the people, the wildlife,
the sights, sounds — and smells
of porridge by the fire.
HELEN OLIVE, UK
U N I N V I T E D G U E ST
In 1996, I was staying at Camp Okavango. After dinner, I
retreated to my tent, which had a zipped door in the back wall,
opening onto a reed-fenced garden. I had barely laid my head
on the pillow when I heard something shuffling next to my
tent. It wiggled its way in between the tent and the reed fence,
wallowed its body around a couple of times and then plonked
itself down, leaning into the back wall of my tent. A hippo! I
dressed quicker than I thought possible and ran out of the front
entrance, back to the boma, where there was still some staff
around. They told me it was a two-year-old orphan, who had
found shelter in camp some time before, after being harassed
by older males. They had named him ‘Meat Loaf’. I was
escorted to another tent to sleep that night. In the morning,
Meat Loaf was gone and the staff greeted me with a cheery
“Good morning, Mama Hippo!”.
THELMA VAN DEN HOONAARD, THE NETHERLANDS
What Africa means to me…
S O U L FO O D
Over the past 25 years, since the very first edition
of Travel Africa, my husband and I travelled widely
over the continent from Tanzania to the bottom
of South Africa, encouraged by stories in the
magazine. Mostly we drove ourselves, but I vividly
remember being squashed into the tiniest plane
to fly to Zanzibar.
There isn’t a favourite place, as all were special
with their own smell and personality. Probably our
most dramatic adventure was driving through
most of Botswana, taking in Baines’ Baobabs,
getting lost and being guided by some local
children for the price of a packet of chewing gum.
Nobody knew where we were and neither did we!
Of course the wildlife was addictive and
always varied. Neither of us were twitchers but
the birdlife was entrancing and my husband, an
artist, couldn’t wait to get home and start painting.
Accommodation varied according to the budget
but we only ever experienced top quality service,
good food and always smiley faces.
The only advice I would pass on is to travel
with someone with whom you get on well, a
kindred spirit. Self-drive if possible and take time
to enjoy all the sights and sounds — do not hurtle
from place to place as you will miss out on so
much. And ENJOY! What a special land.
TISH RIX, ZIMBABWE
TRIVIA: THE NILE MONITOR IS AFRICA’S LONGEST LIZARD | 41
 B E AT I N G
AROUND
THE BUSH
At Chitabe Camp in the
Okavango, we were watching

a nervous-looking female
leopard with her two cubs.
Suddenly, she left the cubs
and approached a young male
leopard with whom she got
into a knock-down fight. He
had been getting too close
to her young, and she wasn’t
allowing it. She chased him up
a tree, where he hid snarling
and hissing. He must have said
too much, though, because
she went up after him. They
tangled, fell to the ground
and rolled around, biting and
hissing. She won quickly and
he retreated behind a tree,
while she strutted around him,
marking her territory on all the
nearby bushes.
MARY LIPPOLD
TRUNK CALLS
In 2019 we spent three months travelling in southern Africa in a 4WD. In the
camps it was most often quiet — sometimes we were the only guests — so we got
used to the silence of the African nights. One evening in Matusadona (Zimbabwe),
we heard a soft sound, like an animal sniffing the canvas of our tent. Given that
our tent was on top of the Land Rover, this could only be an elephant using its
trunk to investigate. Minutes later our car began to shake as it rubbed itself
against it. We held our breath and waited anxiously as it ate noisily from the tree
we were parked under. After five minutes it walked away quietly. We burst out
laughing with relief! The next evening the nosy elephant returned while we were
eating, forcing us to retreat inside our car, along with our cooking gear. We felt
like naive tourists: we came to watch wildlife, but didn’t expect it to turn up on our
doorstep! If you like some adventure, visit Zimbabwe: the nature is beautiful and
the people extremely friendly.
MARTINE DECKERS, THE NETHERLANDS

MARY LIPPOLD, USA

It felt like a homecoming,

a calling back to a place
where my senses came
alive to the sounds of the
bush, the sight of vast skies
and the touch of African
soil beneath my feet; a
MARTINE DECKERS

place to recharge my soul.

LINDA CAMERON, UK

42 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 SAFARI AWAITS.

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 Pearl spotted owlet Lilac-breasted roller

Brown snake eagle Red-billed hornbill

44 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 What Africa means to me…

F E AT H E R E D F R I E N D S
Awakening to the dawn chorus is one of
the joys of a safari. The kurrrrr-kurrrrr of
the Cape turtle dove and the kwee-kow-
kow of the African fish eagle are, for me,
the sounds of Africa. While birds may not
compete with the majesty of a big cat
or a rhino sighting, they take the beauty
prize with their stunning plumage. Plus,
the endless variety of species means the
next sighting is never far away.
Birds of prey are a good place to start
because they are easily seen with the
naked eye. Get some good binoculars
(minimum 8x40) to appreciate their
detail and to help you spot the smaller
Woodland kingfisher
varieties. One of Africa’s avian stars is the
Crested barbet lilac-breasted roller. Its lilac, pink, blue and
aqua feathers sparkle in the sun.
My favourite time to be in southern
Africa is the start of summer when
the migrants arrive. These include the
woodland kingfisher, with its stunning
turquoise wings and red beak. Another
spectacular migrant is the carmine bee-
eater; their nesting colonies on the banks
of the Zambezi, Limpopo and other rivers
draw bird-lovers from around the world.
Ask your guide to help with identifying
them, or borrow a bird identification book.
I use the Sasol eBirds Southern Africa
app. On it, you can list what you have
seen, which is also handy when reviewing
photos. It is not unusual to identify more
than 100 birds on a one-to two-week trip.
Each part of Africa has its own unique
bird populations and the sheer variety
is part of the fun. Next time you are on
safari and the mammals are on long
siesta, focus on the skies and trees — you
might be amazed at what you see. And
LINDSAY SHERMAN (6)

when you awake to the dawn chorus, ask

yourself, “What new bird am I going to
find today?”
LINDSAY SHERMAN, AUSTRALIA

TICK: 106 SPECIES OF RAPTOR ARE FOUND IN AFRICA | 45

Indaba

“You board the boat regardless of what the sky looks like, and
instead give gratitude for the reprieve of the sun and the cool
breeze that carries the scent of wet earth and blossoming jasmine.”

A S O U N D T H AT R E S O N AT E S
Wherever I am in the world, the pulsating sounds of cicadas
transport me back to my childhood. Whether sitting under
the African night sky, around a campfire on safari with
my parents or camping by the Indian Ocean, the cicadas
were a constant, reassuring presence. No wonder I grew up
believing this was the sound of the stars twinkling.
PHIL REYNOLDS

The roar of lions echoing across the savannah, the dry cough
of a leopard, the squabbling whoops and cackles of hyenas,
the bark of a jackal, the hoot of an owl; a deep but quiet

46 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 What Africa means to me…

STORM RELIEF
It was the cusp of the dry season in Botswana. All
living things were desperately awaiting the coming
rains. Savuti was littered with death. The image of an
eland dying of thirst so close to a waterhole will be
forever etched in my mind. By the following day, only
ragged bones remained. Vultures and maribou storks
picked at what little remained after the hyenas had
feasted. It was the cycle of the bush: one life traded
for the sustenance of another, all in perfect balance.
After three nights in Savuti, I was ready to head to
Chobe Game Lodge, a luxury camp in Chobe National
Park. During the dry season, an estimated 50,000
elephants come to the banks of the Chobe River
seeking to relieve their thirst. After the heat of the
day, we were eager to get on the river. We boarded
the solar-powered boat, casting a cautious eye at the
dark clouds gathering on the horizon.
At home, we would probably not wander out into
an impending storm. However, when you travel you
make different choices. The focus is to experience,
to be present, to not miss a thing. Every moment
could be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. So, you
board the boat regardless of what the sky looks like,
and instead give gratitude for the reprieve of the
sun and the cool breeze that carries the scent of wet
earth and blossoming jasmine.
The first half hour was picturesque. The sun’s
rays spilled out from behind the clouds. Crocodiles
and hippos surfaced and disappeared. Herds of
lechwe, buffalo and impala drinking at the riverbank
lifted their heads with mild curiosity as we drifted
past. Birds of all shapes and sizes soared and sang,
from the mighty fish eagle to the colorful flitting of
the bee-eater. We rounded a bend to find a herd of
elephants playing happily and noisily in the water,
TOVAH JACOBSON

their trunks spy-glassing above the surface.

The storm approaches.
Chobe River, Chobe National
The wind rose and the idyllic scene shifted. The
Park, Botswana once calm waters were now crested waves and our
boat rocked wildly. The elephants fled, their huge
bodies engulfed in dust as they ran for higher ground.
We huddled close as the waves splashed against the
rumble accompanied by the sharp crack of bark being stripped side of the boat. Rain poured down, drenching us as
from a nearby tree announces elephants in the camp. The dawn thunder rumbled and lightning cracked.
chorus offers a gentle stirring, with doves, orioles, boubou, And then, suddenly
suddenly,, the storm had passed.
hornbills and go-away birds gradually reaching a crescendo, The sun stretched
stretched out thr
through
ough brbroken
en clouds,
until the heat saps their energy and a deathly hush ensues. The her
heralding
alding the golden hour preceding
preceding dusk. C Calm
alm
had returned
eturned and the plains had been sated. As w we
piercing call of a fish eagle means I have overslept. These are
meandered
meander
andered
ed back up the river
river towards
towards
towar ds the lodge,
lodge
the sounds that bring me back to Africa. But there is so much
we e toasted our dramatic
dramatic experience,
xperience,, celebrating
experience
experience celebrating
more: the smells, the food, the landscapes, the thrill of walking
that the rain
rain had finally come to give
give life
e once again
through the bush, the dazzling colours… to this parched
parched land.
PHIL REYNOLDS, UK TOVAH JACOBSON,
JACOBS
COBSON, USA

FACT: CHOBE IS B
BOTSWANA’S
BOTSWANA’S FIRST
FIR NATIONAL PARK,
PARK
ARK, OFFICIALLY
OFFICIALL DECLARED
CLARED IN 1968
1968 | 47
 LIƟS*: T3L2 NJ

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 Indaba
What Africa means to me…

favourite
places
Where you like to travel

Matobo Hills National Park, Zimbabwe
S PAC E
I N VA D E R
Matobo Hills NP, Zimbabwe:
A beautiful and sacred place,
with over 3,500 rock art sites.
There is beauty, mystery,
magic and spirituality in the
dramatic landscape and
granite kopjes.
Kalahari Desert, Botswana:
True wilderness. Open skies,
endless horizons and a sense
of connectedness to what
really matters.
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park,
South Africa/Botswana:
A stunning terrain, off-the-
beaten-track, with over 170
species of birds and home
to many main predators,
including the Kalahari black-
maned lion.
LINDA CAMERON, UK

Mahale Mountains NP, Tanzania:

ANN HILTON
Remoteness; beautiful nature; stunning
encounters with chimpanzees; birdlife.
Ruaha NP, Tanzania:
Fantastic during both wet and dry seasons;
few tourists; diverse wildlife.
Tsavo West NP, Kenya:
Picturesque landscapes and
exceptional wildlife.
And, of course, Serengeti, Tanzania.
PER ERIKSSON, SWEDEN

RUA H A N P , TA NZA N I A
It is so beautiful. I dubbed it ‘the
Peak District with mega fauna!’

M A ASA I M A R A , K E N YA
There is excitement around every corner.

O K AVA NG O D E LTA , B OT SWA NA

For its tranquillity. Ruaha National Park, Tanzania
ANN HILTON, UK

HYBRID: RUAHA’S UNIQUE POSITION MEANS IT IS HOME TO SPECIES FROM BOTH EASTERN AND SOUTHERN AFRICA | 49
 Diademed sifaka (Critically Endangered)

Leaf-tailed gecko Black-and-white ruffed lemur

Eastern lesser bamboo lemur

A female Panther chameleon

Aye-Aye
 Indaba
What Africa means to me…

Wildlife treat
Botswana: Sabi Sands, South Africa:
ADD VENTURE I love to mobile camp, and like Dense wildlife and amazing
Open any brochure about Africa and the country the fact that I can see the sky so leopards. Just to be sure:
you are least likely to find mentioned is Madagascar. clearly, with no light pollution. stunning leopards.
Cooking is done over a campfire Okavango Delta, Botswana:
Long fascinated by its unique wildlife, I was keen to
and always tastes delicious. Of This place has everything:
visit sooner rather than later, having been advised to course, the wildlife is amazing fantastic mammals, amazing
“go now before it all disappears”. and the fact there are so few birds, fascinating ecology.
Madagascar’s size requires making choices: vehicles around is a real bonus. Mana Pools NP, Zimbabwe:
we opted for the eastern region, with its forests, I visited twice this year (Moremi, I grew up hearing stories from my
Khwai, Savute and Chobe) and dad about fishing trips here. As
notably wetter climate and a variety of wildlife
lost count of the amount of an adult I discovered its amazing
different to other areas. A domestic flight took us to leopard sightings. light, the stunning red of the
Maroantsetra, and access to Nosy Mangabe and the Mara North Conservancy, Kenya: sunrise reflected on the Zambian
protected Masoala National Park. This combination Having fewer vehicles in escarpment in the morning and
of mangrove, tropical and rainforest, as well as a the conservancy helps a lot, the feeling of being in a truly
marine reserve, appealed as it gave us excellent especially as I am avid untampered wilderness.
wildlife photographer. Serengeti, Tanzania:
opportunities to see the elusive mouse lemur and
Zimanga Private Game Reserve, Huge herds and encircling
bamboo lemur, the red ruffed lemur (native to the South Africa: predators (hopefully avoiding
area), kingfishers, helmet vanga, different kinds A beautiful lodge in stunning the encircling tourists).
of frogs, leaf-tailed geckos and tenrecs, as well as surroundings. Uganda:
chameleons in all shapes and sizes. CHRISTINE BUTTERWORTH, UK
For the birdlife; to get a glimpse
of the astonishing Shoebill.
We spent five days exploring the area around
Rwanda:
Ambodiforaha with two guides from the Masoala For the gorillas, and to stay
National Park office. Their knowledge of the in those amazing birdnests at
ecosystem and the wildlife made the treks — early Bisate lodge.
morning and late afternoon/early evening — extra LINDSAY SHERMAN, AUSTRALIA
special, and enabled us to see a variety of diurnal
and noctural wildlife. Others who had visited here
before Covid-19 felt that wildlife was definitely more
difficult to find during our trip. Stories of lemurs M A A S A I M A R A N P, K E N YA :
being hunted for subsistence, and the difficulty we Many people ask why I keep returning to the Mara. “Don’t you see

had spotting them, might support this theory.
For anyone wanting to go to Madagascar, be
warned that the tourism infrastructure isn’t good;
it has suffered from extreme weather and a lack of
investment. Travel can be slow. All roads lead to and
from Antananarivo, and with domestic flights being
limited, it might be best to allocate extra travel days.
A great stopover on the way to the Canal des
ALL PICTURES OPPOSITE: ANNEMIEKE TIMMERS
ANINDYA MUKHERJEE
the same things?”, they ask. But no, it never tires me. The freshness
in the air, the serenity, the sunrises and sunsets, the smell of the wild,
the adrenaline rush when you see the stripes or
spots, the starlit night sky — the entire
biodiversity enchants me. And then
the people, the guides, the staff
at the camps who make every
visit memorable: their

kindness, local knowledge,

Pangalanes is Andasibe, the home of the babakoto
and the supreme guiding.
(indri). Waking up to its morning call is just wonderful! I seem to find an energy
A visit to the Palmarium, though a little touristy, offers in the Mara that I
a good chance to glimpse the aye-aye as well as a have nowhere else. It
number of other lemurs that have their home here. I is the safest and most
thoroughly enjoyed visiting Madagascar and cannot beautiful place I can
wait to go again, to visit other parts of the country. imagine.
ANNEMIEKE TIMMERS, THE NETHERLANDS ANINDYA MUKHERJEE, INDIA
Indaba
What Africa means to me…

Mombasa
M O U N TA I N S
WO R T H C L I M B I N G
Rwenzori mountains, Uganda:
I trekked in the ‘mountains of
the moon’ last year and it was a
fantastic experience. Sadly, the
snow is receding but still visible.
It’s a relatively unspoilt nature,
especially the two northern
mountains Emin and Gessi.
Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Kenya:
We have never seen such a
large population of rhinos; it was
A BEAUTIFUL MADNESS something we will never forget.
Mombasa, Kenya, will always have a special place in my They have Black, Southern white
heart as I lived there for two years from 1976 and visited and (sadly, as there are only two
in 1989 and 2019. Now much unloved, it has an amazing left) Northern white rhinos. It
history, Arab and colonial architecture, Hindu and Jain is encouraging to hear of their
temples, fantastic food and spice markets, quiet spots and
efforts to save the Northern
sea views, Muslim culture and the sounds of the muezzin.
white rhino through their artificial
Enjoy a Tusker or White Cap on the terrace of the Castle
Hotel, chilli crab at the Tamarind, samosas that you bite
insemination programme.
IAN GIBSON, AUSTRALIA
the corner off and squeeze in lime juice, or prawns or chook
cooked in fresh coconut milk. Colourful kangas and kitenges
with enigmatic Kiswahili mottoes. Seedy nightclubs. Fort
Jesus with its Portuguese/Omani/British history. Old and
new dhows moored out the front of the Old Town. Mad traffic
with farting buses, tuk-tuks, broken taxis, yelling bus touts.
Piles of plastic rubbish on the cumbling pavements. Close
access to beautiful, blinding white sandy/coral beaches.
Posh beachside hotels and houses behind high walls with
glimpses of bougainvillea/coconut palms. Slums...
LIZ MATTOCK, AUSTRALIA
Walking in the Rwenzori mountains, Uganda

Kenya: Zambia and Botswana: Zambia:

My “soul country”.
My favourite place is
Maasai Mara, particularly
Governors’ Camps.
Rovos Rail, South Africa:
We have done Pretoria to
Cape Town and will do
Pretoria to Durban next.
Victoria Falls Hotel,
Zimbabwe:
The Edwardian feel
is wonderful.
AVARY DOUBLEDAY, USA
Abundant wildlife, diverse
landscapes and sightings,
excellent guides, lovely
accommodations.
Namibia:
Dramatic landscapes; very
inspiring, even spiritual, beauty.
Rwanda:
The Virunga mountains and
gorilla encounters, but also the
painful history and inspiring
recovery of the country.
HANNY GREENFELD, ISRAEL
For the greatest safari experience in Africa; wonderful, charming
camps and hospitality at its best. Favourite camps: Remote
Africa. Favourite park: Kafue, especially Busanga Plains.
Mozambique:
The most unspoiled and unpopulated beaches I have ever seen
(and I have seen lots of beaches around the world). I remember
walking north from Tofo for about two hours without seeing a
single person. Same at Anvil Bay or Travessia. Love it.
Kaya Mawa, Malawi:
This has always been my favourite place in Africa, probably
because I fell in love with Lake Malawi when we first did the ferry
trip in 2005 from Itungi Port to Nkhata Bay.
DANIELA EILETZ-KAUBE, AUSTRIA

52 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

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SUBSCRIBE AT WWW.TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM 53
 Indaba

CLIFF HANGER
I am an antique dealer in Italy,
but my heart and soul belong
to Africa. I even worked
there for a while, at Sangha
Lodge in the Central African
Republic. My stories of this
FULVIA MENTO

time are plentiful, but it’s an

encounter with the Dogon in
Mali that I will never forget.
As I approached the vast,
arid region of Bandiagara, Soon, I found myself that look like small towers,
following paths of red earth, walking over bluish rocks with conical straw roofs that
surrounded by fields of in a labyrinth of narrow, resemble a magician’s hat.
FULVIA MENTO

onions, millet and baobabs winding paths. Dogon houses On a plateau of rock
with flayed trunks, I felt as suddenly appeared, with their and sandstone — shaped
if I was entering a fairytale. terraced roofs and granaries by wind and water into the

54 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 What Africa means to me…

Drakensberg mountains, South Africa:

The ‘Mountain of Dragons’ lives up to its name, as the shadows and dramatic peaks
are very mysterious. The hikes are amazing, with beautiful rock pools and mountain
flowers, but I also love the peace and special atmosphere of the resorts. Nothing
beats sitting on the terrace of your accommodation with a glass of wine, looking
at the mountains and observing the flora and fauna around you, while the light
changes depending on the weather and time of day.
AMANDA-JANE WOODLAND, UK

most bizarre forms — the sun
turned the sand pink. From
the top of this spectacular
ochre-coloured cliff, the plain
below appeared as if under
a sheet of tissue paper. I was
overwhelmed by the beauty
of the place, and also by the
rhythm of life of the people
who inhabit these places.
Laughing children and
squatting women dressed in
colourful clothes kneaded
crushed onions into balls to
be dried in the sun and sold.
The Dogon are animists
and their religion hinges
on a complex cosmogony.
Each village, which hides an
invisible web of prohibitions
and symbols, has the same
structure: there’s a togu-
na (great shelter), where
the wise old men gather
to discuss the problems of
the village, and the hogon’s
(the spiritual leader) house,
located at the highest point. Zimbabwe:
The hogon lives alone and
cannot have physical contact
The beauty of Victoria
with other people. Only a Falls, the wild areas of
young girl, who is not yet the Zambezi Valley and
fertile, can go to him every
morning to prepare his food. the gentleness of the
The cliff changes colour Eastern Highlands.
constantly because of the
SUSAN FLEGG, UK
play of light and shadow.
Another amazing day ends.
FULVIA MENTO, ITALY

Namibia: Such a varied country. Dunes, Skeleton Coast, Etosha and more…
JANE BREWER, UK

FACT: MALI HAS FOUR WORLD HERITAGE SITES: LAND OF THE DOGONS AT BANDIAGARA, DJENNE OLD TOWNS, TIMBUKTU AND THE TOMB OF ASKIA | 55
Indaba

BEING DISCONNECTED Hiking the Fish River

Canyon, Namibia
Fish River Canyon, Namibia: I never thought I would
say it, but I would really like to be back in the Fish River
Canyon, walking its 92km trail. Combining hiking with
spectacular scenery and a sense of remoteness, this is
truly a special place. In the canyon you see things from
KENYA
a different perspective and become totally immersed Since my first visit to Kenya in
1983 I have visited Tanzania,
in the habitats around you, from dramatic boulders to
Uganda, Zimbabwe, Zambia,
pelican-covered lakes. To begin with, the lack of mobile
Botswana and South Africa.
phone reception is a minor concern, but after just a few
All my safari experiences have
hours it feels like a massive gift. Digitally disconnect and been exciting and inspiring,
reconnect with the environment. but I still frequently need to
Mbuluzi Game Reserve, Eswatini: There is something return to Kenya. The Maasai
special about Mbuluzi, as you can have your own little Mara is a magical place, despite
piece of the African bush all to yourself. It is a private the traffic congestion in some
game reserve in the lowveld, with delightful self-catering areas and the pressure on
lodges nestled amongst riverine vegetation. As there is wildlife. We use camps off the
no big game in the reserve you can safely wander on foot, main routes, like Sand River,
where game is abundant
keeping an eye out for giraffe, nyala and warthog. The
without numerous vehicles.
birding is particularly brilliant here and it is a great place
I appreciate the Mara’s open Ik sentries at the
to simply unwind in the tranquillity of the area, and gain
grassy savannahs dotted with entrance to their
restoration for the soul. acacia trees. Beautiful!
corral, near Kidepo NP,
Uganda
JENNY BOWEN, UK JAN RUCKER, USA

56 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 What Africa means to me…
K I D E P O VA L L E Y
N AT I O N A L
PA R K , U GA N DA
Apoka Lodge, Kidepo
Kidepo is one of those places
where you can imagine being the
first European to visit. And it can be
fittingly difficult to get to. The first two
of our 13-hour drive from Entebbe
were on some of the worst roads I’ve
experienced anywhere. Bumper-to-
bumper traffic zig-zagged around
the smaller potholes and down into,
then up and out of the larger ones in a
seething morass of cars.
Away from the cities, though,
the road improved considerably,
including many newly built stretches.
We drove through thronging villages
on market day, past young women
grinding corn on granite boulders,
and across the Nile River. We stopped
at a roadside vendor and had Rolexes
for brunch (from “rolled eggs”:
tomatoes and herbs rolled in an
omelette and then in a chapati). It was
late afternoon by the time we arrived
at Kidepo and it had started to rain,
turning the track into red treacle.
My guests said that whilst they had
thoroughly enjoyed the drive, they
wouldn’t want to do it again and were
happy that I had booked a charter flight
for the return journey!
The following morning, a golden
NEVILLE JONES / EXPERIENTIAL TRAVEL
sunrise revealed the full glory of
this park. From its elevated perch
on one side of the valley, Apoka
Lodge provides every room with an
uninterrupted view of the rolling hills
many kilometres away. We enjoyed
breakfast looking down on herds of
buffalo, zebra and several species of
TRIVIA: A HIPPO’S CANINE TEETH NEVER STOP GROWING | 57
NEVILLE JONES / EXPERIENTIAL TRAVEL
antelope. Apoka is the only premium
lodge in Kidepo, and we didn’t see
another vehicle in the huge park. Self-
drivers are welcome to use the picnic
and bathroom facilities in the rocky
hills, but when we drove there, the
best positions — the huge flat-topped
boulders with the widest views — were
occupied by four large male lions.
A highlight of our visit was a full-
day hike to visit the Ik people. The Ik
were dispossessed of their traditional
homelands when the British Colonial
government gazetted Kidepo Valley
National Park in 1958. This put them
in conflict with neighbouring people,
especially the Karamajong, and they
eventually found refuge high on Mount
Morungole, a place so rugged and
cold that it was of little interest to
others. Those years seem to have had
a significant effect on the culture: they
post sentries around the clock and the
entrances to the corrals and huts are
convoluted and difficult to negotiate.
We were the only tourists to visit
the Ik that year, and they put on an
extravagant welcome. Sadly, we could
only spend an hour with them as it had
taken four hours to hike to their village
and it was now already getting dark.
There are no truly “untouched’
landscapes or cultures in Africa
anymore, but Kidepo Valley National
Park and its former residents, the
Ik people, are as close to unsullied
by external forces as you might find
anywhere on the continent.
NEVILLE JONES, EXPERIENTIAL TRAVEL, AUSTRALIA


 



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58 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

Indaba
ISLANDS IN
T H E ST R E A M
I have recently returned from
a six-day canoeing trip in
Zimbabwe along the Zambezi
River, from Kariba Gorge to
Mana Pools. Although it wasn’t
my first time in Zim, travelling
this way was something special
— viewing nature and wildlife
from a different perspective,
passing by hippos and
crocodiles and seeing plenty
of birds was simply amazing.
Because of the low water
level in December/January,
islands emerged from the river,
providing the perfect spots to
set up camp each night. I can’t
recall any sunrises and sunsets
that were more enchanting.
It was the perfect trip. We
travelled with Natureways
Safaris, who I cannot
recommend highly enough.
There were just two of us
paddling, accompanied by
two local guides, who were
both professional and super-
experienced on the river.
CRISTINA CIOPPA, ITALY
Cape Town, South Africa Nancy Coble, USA | Etosha National Park, Namibia Wendy MacFadyen, UK | Croc Valley Camp,
South Luangwa NP, Zambia Graham Everett, UK | Ruaha NP, Tanzania Graham Everett, UK | Kapula Lodge, Hwange NP,
Zimbabwe Graham Everett, UK | Okavango Delta, Botswana Richard Hiles, UK | Mpaathutlwa Pan, southwest Kalahari,
Botswana Russell Fowler, UK | Moremi Game Reserve and surrounds, Botswana Russell Fowler, UK
Tsodilo Hills, Botswana Russell Fowler, UK | Zimbabwe, Botswana and Tanzania Barbara Terbeck, Germany
TRIVIA: MANA POOLS IS NAMED FOR ITS FOUR PERMANENT POOLS FORMED BY THE ZAMBEZI; ‘MANA’ MEANS FOUR IN THE SHONA LANGUAGE
What Africa means to me…
Z I M B A BW E :
In 1991 for my 50th birthday,
I went to Zimbabwe. Flying
in a little plane on our
way to Mana Pools, we
zoomed down the Zambezi,
spying huge crocs lying
on sandbanks. We landed,
I thought, in Heaven –
CRISTINA CIOPPA
elephants on the
runway and a
drive through
magical albida
The port of Douala, Cameroon
woodlands
with impala
dancing around.
DEAGOSTINI / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
In Hwange, during dinner, a
herd of buffalo stampeded
through camp with lions
in hot pursuit. We drove
quickly to a waterhole to
catch the frenzy. A hippo
emerged to chase the lion
URBAN ADVENTURES off and proceeded to eat
the contents of a buffalo
They’re not a highlight for many, but if you’re in
the right mood, the energy of African cities is stomach. Hundreds of
intoxicating. My favourites include: elephants came and went
Douala (Cameroon): Not pretty by any stretch that night, along with a black
of the imagination. Hot and humid, but the sheer rhino with calf. Can you
energy, the ever-present music, accompanied
imagine why I fell in love
by good food and beer, makes it unbeatable.
Asmara (Eritrea): Probably the most interesting
with Africa?
African capital architecturally, with amazing ROSALIND LOW, UK
modernist buildings from the Italian colonial
times. Plus, the people are super-friendly.
Maputo (Mozambique): A beautiful setting,
Kruger NP (South Africa)
interesting architecture and excellent seafood.
I also like some of the smaller towns: Dalaba and Etosha NP (Namibia):
(Guinea), Djenne (Mali) with its stunning both remain fabulous for
mosque, and Agadez (Niger), which has
beautiful mud-brick architecture.
those who want to self-drive.
DAVID HANANEL, USA TONY CHILD, UK
| 59
Indaba

MICHAEL RUNKEL / ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY

SURPRISE PARTY
MALCOLM PARK

In August 2022 we were We captured some decent

travelling to the Serengeti for photographs of elephants,
a safari with our friend and lions, giraffe, oryx, buffalo
local guide, John Mndolwa. and jackals as well as some
We decided to do something of the park’s estimated 450
Kambadaga waterfalls,
different and chose to venture bird species, reptiles and
Fouta Djallon, Guinea
along a route less travelled to even resident frogs.
a park we had never visited: The highlight, and a great
G U I N E A F L OWS Mkomazi. This really was an reason to visit Mkomazi, is
exploration for us as there was the sanctuary which protects
When I am asked what my favourite country in Africa is, my very little information about some 35 black rhino and
answer, instinctively, is Guinea. Why? Because of the Fouta the park; accommodation several packs of wild dogs.
Djallon region, a few hours inland from Conakry, the capital. was limited to a single camp Established in 1989 by Tony
A green and hilly landscape dissected with massive gorges, and there was not a wealth Fitzjohn and his team, it was
Fouta Djallon serves as the source of many of West Africa’s of previous visitor reviews. incorporated into TANAPA
rivers, including the Niger. It is also blessed with scenic towns; Undeterred, we set off on (Tanzania National Parks)
among them Dalaba, with a crisp mountain air and the home the four-hour drive from in late 2019. We were made
of a sanatorium during colonial times, and Telimele, perched Arusha, along the foothills of incredibly welcome by the
Kilimanjaro and past the sisal team there, who were proud
majestically on top of a hill with fantastic views in all directions.
fields towards Mkomazi. of what had been achieved
There are endless opportunities for day hikes using any of
What we found was and were committed to its
Fouta Djallon’s towns as a base, but for those with a bit more something of a hidden gem. ongoing success despite
time, multi-day walks from one to another offer an unbeatable For a start, we seemed to numerous challenges.
way to see the region and get to know its people. have not only our camp to The Tanzanian authorities
In 2003, I walked from Pita to Telimele with stops at the ourselves but the whole park, are keen to develop this
villages of Doucki, Donghol-Touma and Lei Miro. The terrain, sighting perhaps four other area for safari tourism — an
as expected, was gorgeous. But, as always in West Africa, the jeeps over five days. Babu’s
scenery took a back seat to the more human pleasures. Even in Camp offers a fantastic
a region known for its friendliness, the people of Fouta Djallon panoramic view. Game drives
Inset: Goshawks mating,
stood out as exceptionally graceful hosts. Though I was doing were harder work than in Mkomazi NP, Tanzania
the Serengeti, with fewer
a solo hike, I was never alone, with locals joining me and This pic: The view from
predators, but this was easily Zomba Plateau, Malawi
showing me shortcuts that were absent from the maps I had
compensated for by the
bought from the Institut Geographique National in Conakry. lack of competing vehicles,
An abundant supply of juicy oranges kept me hydrated together with the variety of
during the days, while each village had a basic place to wildlife and beautiful scenery.
accommodate strangers, with cooked food also on offer. None
asked for money — though the offer of a gift before departure
in the morning was never refused.
This is a region where you are treated as an individual,
not a source of income. Before I set off from Pita, I had met a
young French couple who were about to take a bush taxi to
Telimele. A few days later, as I wearily walked into Telimele,
a well-dressed gentleman extended his hand and welcomed
me by name to his town. “Your French friends told me you
would be coming”, he said, with a slight grin.
DAVID HANANEL, USA
MALCOLM PARK

60 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA


extension of the airfield
one example of this. But
there’s still a way to go with
facilities, training of staff
and upgrading perimeter
protection. Another concern
is the scarcity of water in the
park. The main waterhole
visibly diminished during our
five day stay, with several
weeks to go before the
seasonal rains.
These breeding
programmes are essential
for the protection and
continuation of these
acutely endangered animals,
enabling all the wild dogs
and some of the rhinos to be
released into the wild across
various national parks in
Tanzania and beyond. The
photographic opportunities
were superb, with a sunken
hide by the rhino watering
hole and a game drive into
the extensive rhino habitats
where we encountered
numerous dust-covered
rhinos up close.
For us, Mkomazi is a very
special place and we’re
already planning our return.
MALCOLM PARK, UK
What Africa means to me…
STEPPING UP
“Going on safari” is the iconic activity on an African holiday,
but most countries have a variety of alternative activities to
tempt visitors. I travelled around southern Malawi in November
2022, finding plenty to supplement time in the wildlife parks of
Majete and Liwonde.
Those unable to trek Mt Mulanje (see Travel Africa #98) may like to
try the Zomba Plateau. It offers trails of varying length and difficulty,
including in Malawi‘s oldest forest reserve. I stayed at Zomba Forest
Lodge — off-the-beaten-track, off grid and with a reputation for
good food — drawn by the owners’ conservation ethos.
Tom and Petal Wimbush have a comfortable, rustic lodge
in lush gardens, and they have joined forces with the local
community to preserve the surrounding woodland and in
particular the last patch of true Afro-montane cloud forest,
which they protect by funding fire patrols in the dry season. Their
conservation charity, TREEZ, pays people to plant native tree
species in degraded areas and further rewards them for keeping
small trees alive. Zomba Tour Guide Association members derive
an income from guiding and also act as a rapid response team to
fight fires and deter wood cutters.
I could feel the temperature drop dramatically when I entered
the cloud forest, making the excursion pleasantly cool. Unseen
monkeys crashed through the branches and birdsong tantalised
us from the canopy, but the peace and beauty of the forest and its
moss-clad trees were reward enough for exertions up the steep
trail to the plateau rim.
It was the perfect antidote to long car transfers and game
drives. Vantage points offered views across
the valley to distant mountains, but plumes
of smoke rising from the lower slopes served
to remind how vulnerable these trees are.
Aaron Linje, my guide, set a manageable
pace, but when I asked if we were making
good time he assured me that if we went
at his speed it would kill me! He was less
than half my age and had come 11th in the
Blantyre Marathon, so I viewed him as part
guide and part personal trainer!
Back at the lodge I joined Petal for an
evening dog walk and was saddened to see
just how small this cloud forest remnant is,
amongst cleared land and non-native pine
plantations. I was pleased to have supported
their mission to protect it.
RICHARD HILES, UK
BURNING ISSUE: 81% OF MALAWIAN HOUSEHOLDS USE FIREWOOD FOR COOKING AND HEATING | 61
Indaba
TwinBy peaks
Raghu Gururaj
T
he Republic of São Tomé and
Príncipe is a breath of fresh air. There
is nothing cosmetic about it, and
visitors will experience a raw feeling of
closeness to nature.
The second smallest country in
Africa (after Seychelles), the twin islands
straddle the equator in the Gulf of Guinea.
The pristine sandy beaches, dreamy
waterfalls, lush rainforests, unique
biodiversity, stupendous volcanic peaks,
gushing streams, medicinal gardens,
fruit farms, views over dense jungles and
historic plantation sites, have all earned
São Tomé and Príncipe epithets such
as ‘Heaven on Earth’, ‘Africa’s Eden’ and
‘African Galapagos’.
Arriving in São Tomé is like setting foot
in a nature documentary. The coastal drive
from the airport is skirted by quaint fishing
villages, glorious beaches hugged by palm
trees and luscious landscapes. The outskirts
of the city are dressed in green blankets
of banana and cocoa plantations. Cashew
trees grow nonchalantly across the city. So
too pomegranate, guava, plantain, mango
and papaya trees.
São Tomé and Príncipe is peerless
(alongside Galapagos Islands) in its
biodiversity and range of endemic species
of fauna and flora. The Pico Cão Grande,
located at the heart of Obô Natural Park,
is a solitary volcanic spire that rises up
to 300 metres, looking like a natural
skyscraper surrounded by lush green
forest. Not visiting Obô is like skipping the
Taj Mahal when visiting Agra, or missing
out on Disneyland when in Orlando.
Príncipe is the smaller and more
picturesque of the two islands: an
untouched ecological paradise declared
a World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. A
few days here is an escape from civilisation.
When the Portuguese discovered the
uninhabited islands in 1485, they decided
to cultivate sugar cane here. As a result,
62 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
What Africa means to me…
the islands became an outpost of the slave
trade in the 16th century: Jewish children
from the Iberian Peninsula and people
from Angola, Mozambique, Cape Verde
and Congo became the main sources of
plantation workers. Most residents trace
their ancestry to Africa or Portugal; the
population is predominantly Christian
(80 per cent Catholic and 15 per cent
Protestant); and Portuguese is the main
spoken language.
It is no surprise, then, that this is a
culturally diverse country. The performing
arts of São Tomé symbolise the synthesis
of African and European traditions and
the coexistence of two different cultures.
Though stratified by ethnic groups and
social status, São Toméans are largely
united in attitude.
Daily life in São Tomé is léve léve,
meaning ‘take it easy’. A large billboard
at the airport reminds visitors to do so.
For most of us who are used to the hustle
and bustle of modern city life, it does take
some adjusting. There is no such thing as a
traffic jam in the city. During so-called peak
hours, the main thoroughfare has only a
handful of cars and motorbikes. With no
traffic lights, one can get by seamlessly
without using the horn.
The unsullied natural beauty of São
Tomé and Príncipe is matched by an
equally charming colonial landscape.
Though it became an independent
country in 1975, it still retains much of
the 16th-century architecture. Ambling
into the city centre, one is struck by the
tropical simplicity of this African capital,
with its fading but splendid colonial
buildings and their carved wooden
wraparound balconies, arched windows
and balustrades, many of which have been
restored in bright vibrant colours.
RAGHU GURURAJ IS THE AMBASSADOR OF INDIA TO THE REPUBLIC OF SÃO TOMÉ AND PRÍNCIPE.
The city centre is the only place where
there is a mild buzz. Teenagers sporting
caps and suited white-collar workers
mingle together. Healthy-looking, chirpy
schoolchildren with braided hair can be
seen buying from street vendors, and
mothers with babies slung behind their
backs walk with unhurried languid ease.
Sunshine yellow taxis jostle for space with
motorbikes and shabby jeeps.
Moneychangers and telephone card
sellers squat on street corners, while
shoppers haggle with street vendors. It
is common to see women selling huge
tuna fish in cane baskets. Tiny shops and
galleries display exquisite wood carvings,
masks, seashell jewellery, paintings and
traditional ornaments.
Despite a modest standard of living, the
crime rate in the city is low. São Toméans
are unassuming, uncomplicated, amiable
and respectful. They spontaneously greet
everyone in the street with a wave of their
hand or head or a Portuguese salutation.
São Tomé and Príncipe is a low-
income country ($2100 per capita in
2020), trying to graduate to a mid-income
status by 2026. The economy is heavily
dependent on agricultural exports, tourism
and external aid. However, at 71 years,
life expectancy here is higher than its
neighbours. The literacy rate is 85 per
cent, while the gender ratio is equal. It
has among the most robust democratic
credentials in Africa.
Despite its undeniable appeal as a
tourist destination, São Tomé and Príncipe
remains one of the world’s least visited
countries. This can be attributed to its
remote location, lack of connectivity and
visibility. But if you are looking to balance
your vital health indicators and dosh, São
Tomé and Príncipe is the place to be.
 Daily life in São Tomé
is léve léve, meaning
‘take it easy’. A large
billboard at the airport
reminds visitors to do
so. For most of us who
are used to the hustle
and bustle of modern
city life, it does take
some adjusting.

Top: The Pico Cão Grande, located at the

heart of Obô Natural Park on São Tomé
Left: The beach and rainforest setting for
HDB Príncipe’s Sundy Praia resort
Below left: The Our Lady of Grace
Cathedral in São Tomé city was originally
built at the end of the 15th century. It’s
most recent remodelling was in 1956
Below right: The Príncipe kingfisher is
one of 29 endemic birds of São Tomé
and Príncipe
SCOTT RAMSAY / HDB PRINCIPE ISLAND

MICHAEL RUNKEL / ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY / SUPERSTOCK HDB PRINCIPE ISLAND
Indaba
EnteringByEden
Anders Lindberg
E
ver since National Geographic’s iconic
documentary Gabon: The last Eden in
the mid-noughties, there has been an
allure among Africa aficionados to visit the
country, particularly Loango National Park,
where rainforests stretch all the way to the
ocean, connected to an enormous delta of
lagoons, creating a very special wilderness
and wildlife experience.
But with the price levels of Monte Carlo,
tourism facilities once best suited for
student hikers and Kafkaesque immigration
procedures, there is no surprise the crowds
have stayed away. But the 2022 opening
of N’dola Camp and the re-opening of its
smaller affiliate Louri Camp in Loango marks
a fresh opportunity for tourists to visit this
unique part of Africa.
By African standards, Gabon is a small
country — about the same size as the
UK or Italy — with a population of only
about two million. More than 80 per cent
of the country is woodland and, thanks
to its wealth of oil and minerals, the
rainforests have mostly been spared from
deforestation. The roads are few, but mostly
good. It is friendly and safe, proud of its
independence, and has been governed by
the same family for nearly 60 years.
Visitors can fly in from Paris daily, arriving
in the very Francophone, mildly vibrant
Left to right: Western lowland gorilla in the marshes; N’dola Camp; forest elephant grazing in the dense forest in Loango National Park
64 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
What Africa means to me…
capital Libreville. With small hotels on the
beach, a few minutes from the airport,
you are never far from a fresh croissant,
a decent list of French wines or a good
restaurant — though it is expensive, with a
main course costing between 35-60 euros.
A 30-minute domestic flight takes you
to Port Gentil, the economic capital of the
country, from where a four-hour drive gets
you to Loango National Park. After a short
boat trip to N’dola Camp, you are unlikely
to see any other people other than fellow
guests and camp staff.
Visitors can explore the park in three
ways: by boat, cruising the lagoons, looking
out for hippos, bull sharks and crocodiles;
on foot, trekking through the rainforests;
or by vehicle, traversing the savannah that
wends between islands of rainforest.
The savannah is wide, but sandy, which
limits wildlife to sitatunga, the cattle-like
dark red forest buffalo, Red river hogs
and forest elephants. The shy bongo,
unsurprisingly, eluded us. Animals are seen
in small groups, not in the abundance of
the East African plains. We also spotted
chimpanzee and a group of non-habituated
gorillas — the latter a rare sighting that
impressed our guides, all former park
rangers. Before dusk, we found elephants
searching for salt and refreshment on the
ANDERS LINDBERG
beach, but unfortunately we never got to
see them take that mythical swim in the
ocean (they never do, though hippo have
been spotted in the sea).
One of Loango’s main attractions is
trekking to see the habituated groups
of Western lowland gorillas. They are
more mobile than their cousins, the
Eastern gorillas; this means there are
fewer habituated groups, which makes it
feel more exclusive. The family we were
watching decided to cross into the swamps,
and we struggled to keep pace with them,
but their active nature — with siblings play-
fighting, the Silverback keeping the peace,
and tree-climbing — more than made up for
our struggles through the marshes. They are
magical to follow for the allotted one hour.
Once back at N’dola Camp (or the
smaller Louri Bush Camp), guests are in
good hands — with delicious fish-based
food and friendly company – and you sleep
well in comfortable classic safari tents.
The freedom to use vehicle, boat
or walks allows for a great flexibility in
activities. The enormous sandy beaches,
with the sound of the ocean and the sun
setting over the water, provide a spectacular
scene for sundowners, perhaps with some
elephants not too far away.
Gabon is not a place for the masses, but
for those seeking an Eden, with its special
combination of sea, sand and rainforest. The
lodges are few, but decent quality. Gabon
is not a bargain, but an earned experience.
It was never supposed to be easy to enter
such a wilderness.
ANDERS LINDBERG OWNS CAMP NIVICA IN ALBANIA
 EXCEPTIONAL ZAMBIA

CAPTURE Kafunta
THE MOMENT SAFARIS
PHOTOGRAPHIC
SAFARIS

Join us for a true wilderness experience

CONTACT US
reservations@wildfrontiers.com
www.wildfrontiers.com
TANZANIA KENYA UGANDA RWANDA Kafunta River Lodge Three Rivers Camp Island Bush Camp
ZIMBABWE BOTSWANA ZAMBIA ZAKOUMA
 
 
 

   

  

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PROMOTIONAL EDITORIAL

GUEST REVIEW | DEC 2022

An amazing experience
“A thoroughly wonderful
end to our trip through
Tanzania. We had a fantastic
time, loved seeing the
chimpanzees, enjoyed the
food and felt overwhelmed
In the cool humidity beneath the forest canopy, the still air by the kindness and
is punctuated by the calls of birds and insects, the shriek
attentiveness of the staff
of a vervet monkey echoing through the trees, or the rustle
of the undergrowth as a startled bushbuck takes flight. service on a beautiful,
This, is Rubondo Island, in Tanzania. unparalleled island.”

66 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

The island
Situated in the southwestern corner
of Lake Victoria, the island is
26 kilometres long and up to 10
kilometres wide, making it Africa’s
largest island national park. Just
a 75-minute flight from the open
grass plains of the Serengeti, the
contrast that the environment of
Rubondo Island offers makes it
difficult to believe that you are still
in the same country. From dry and
dusty savannah into lush and green
rainforest, the change is astonishing.
And, with only Rubondo Island Camp
on the island, this becomes your
exclusive island to explore.
Nearly 80 per cent of the island
is covered in pristine rainforest,
home to an array of wildlife and
bird species. Forest elephant push
their way through the dense forest
floor growth, their tusks evolved
to be smaller than their mainland
counterparts and therefore less likely
to get caught in snaring vegetation.
The shy Sitatunga, a swamp-
dwelling antelope, not to be confused
with a bushbuck, is regularly found
near the water’s edge or in the
shallows around the island. In the
south of the island, there are open
plains, where herds of giraffe step
out into the sunshine to graze
vegetation more suited to their
savannah-based preferences.
Beneath the canopy
Stepping into the forest requires a
moment to allow the eyes and senses
to adjust to the new surroundings. In
contrast to the warm sun and open
air, below the enclosed canopy of the
equatorial rainforest the humidity
climbs and there is considerably
less light. There are more shades of
green than the eye can count, with
the occasional highlight of intense
brightness where a slice of sunlight
has pierced the canopy overhead.
There is constant activity
throughout the treetops as both
vervet monkeys and Black-and-white
colobus monkeys chatter and chase
amongst the upper branches. Two
troops of chimpanzee, totalling
over 60 in number, reside within
the forest, making for an exciting
tracking adventure through the
undergrowth. The story of these
chimpanzee, how they arrived
on the island and the habituation
process they have been through, is
all incorporated into the chimpanzee
experience available from the camp.
On the water
Over 400 endemic and migratory
species of birds have been recorded
across the island, including pied
and malachite kingfisher, paradise
flycatcher, African grey parrot,
LEARN: READ MORE ABOUT RUBONDO ISLAND ON WWW.ASILIAAFRICA.COM | 67
and open bill stork. While walking
through the forest offers a visual and
auditory feast for the senses amongst
the constant cacophony of colour and
sound, exploring the periphery of
the island from the water reveals an
equally remarkable experience. The
African fish eagles which could be
heard from the forest floor can now
be seen surveying the open waters
of Lake Victoria from their tree-top
perches. Bee-eaters flit across the
water’s surface and here, around
the shoreline of the island, is where
you are most likely to encounter
a spotted-necked otter. Small
neighbouring islets host populations
of lazy crocodiles basking in the
sun, while breeding colonies of
cormorants paint the rocks white.
The catch-and-release fishing
offers an exciting alternative activity
to the overall safari experience and,
as it’s accompanied by seasoned
guides, requires no previous fishing
knowledge. Arguably, the best part
of an afternoon boating excursion
is enjoying the sunset from the
water. It’s a spectacular affair, with
a full spectrum of colour reflected
and enhanced off the water’s
surface. Following the shoreline
back to camp as the light begins
to fade, expect to see a hippo or
two emerging from the shallows
in search of improved grazing
opportunities in the cool evening air.
Rubondo Island Camp

In a sheltered cove on the eastern

side of the island, a sandy beach
gives way to a grass lawn before
running into the thick equatorial
rainforest. Interspersed across
the lawn are eight thatch-roofed
cottages each complete with a
sheltered verandah from which
to absorb the views across the
water. Lying in bed at night, there’s
something profoundly unique
about being able to hear both the
gentle lapping of the waves on the
lakeshore in combination with the
sounds of the forest settling down
behind you.
Such a remarkable private island
experience within a stone’s throw
of the Serengeti — why would you
not add Rubondo to your next
safari experience?

GUEST REVIEW | JAN 2023

What a special place!

“Rubondo Island camp should
not be missed by anyone
planning a safari trip who is
interested in something a
bit more adventurous. The
chimp trekking is a huge
rush of excitement but it is
by no means the only thing
Rubondo has to offer — the
pristine remote location,
unique variety of wildlife,
and incredible staff are
what makes Rubondo a
truly special place.”

Fly for free when visiting Rubondo Island

For new bookings travelling before 31 December 2023, Asilia is
offering complimentary return flights from anywhere within the
Serengeti for 2 people, staying a minimum of 3 nights on the
island. Scan the QR Code for more information. (T&Cs apply)

+27 21 418 0468 safari@asiliaafrica.com www.asiliaafrica.com

68 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 3 nights
at
for 4 people p, COMPETITION
am
Somalisa C l Park
ationa
Hwange N e, normal
All-inclusiv y, max
terms appl s
2 room

3 nights
for 4 people
Victoria Fa at
lls Safari
Lodge, B&
2 waterhole B,
-fac
rooms, norm ing
al
terms apply

3 nights
for 4 people at
Amalinda Lodge,
Matobo Hills National
Park, All-inclusive,
normal terms apply,
max 2 rooms

Be part of the Travel Africa family and you could WIN a

fabulous 10-day safari for 4 people to Zimbabwe!
Since we launched in 1997, we have been so thankful to every reader who has shared their love for Africa with us and Travel
Africa. Whether you have subscribed from those early years, are newer, or receive our newsletters, we are so grateful.

So, to celebrate our 25th anniversary we thought it would be fun to give away a holiday to Zimbabwe,
one lucky reader. With thanks to our valued, longstanding friends and partners on the ground,
To be sure you are
are able to offer an incredible 10-night safari for 4 people*, visiting Victoria Falls, Hwange in with a chance to win
National Park, Matobo Hills and Bulawayo, where our story began. The draw will take place this exciting safari, visit
on September 20, 2023, and will be open to all members of the Travel Africa community: travelafricamag.com
O Travel Africa magazine subscribers (print and digital) will be given three entries to subscribe, renew or
O Shamwari email newsletter readers will be given one entry sign up to our
You do not need to separately enter the draw. If you have an active subscription to the magazine newsletter!
on that date, or are signed up our email newsletter, you will automatically be entered.
*Prize includes all-inclusive accommodation (standard terms and exclusions apply), and road transport on the ground in Zimbabwe, but does NOT include international flights,
visas, park entry fees and items of a personal nature. Terms and conditions apply, including some date restrictions. Prize must be used before the end of November 2024
(excluding August and September), subject to availability. Additional nights can be bought at own expense. For full details, visit travelafricamag.com

Plus: 1 night at Traveller’s Guest Lodge, Bulawayo; all road transfers and bookings by Africa Travel, based in Victoria Falls

TATENDA: WE REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR SUPPORT OVER THE LAST 25 YEARS | 69

PROMOTIONAL EDITORIAL
be a part of africa
There is no such thing as a scheduled safari in this part of the world.
A
s a co-owner of this private (no
timeshare) freehold 20,712ha
game reserve in Botswana’s
Tuli Block, you are in charge of how
you want to experience your day.
You can go out on a game drive
whenever you want (day and night).
There is absolutely no rush and you
can spend as much time as you like
in the bush and with the animals.
But this project is about so much
more: this is about contributing to
the preservation of Africa’s precious
wilderness and the endangered
wildlife it sustains. The creation of
the reserve saw farmland returned
to its natural habitat, coupled
with the reintroduction of rhino,
wild dogs and lion, as well as
leopard, hyena and jackal among
70 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
others. There is an abundance of
zebra, wildebeest and antelope,
and around 350 species of birds,
making it a veritable Walhalla
for birders! In this part of Africa,
plains, mountains and bush
come together, creating a unique
ecosystem with an incredible
biodiversity.
The reserve’s main camp —
beautifully situated under the
shade of massive trees overlooking
the mighty Limpopo River — is
just an easy 6-hour drive from
Johannesburg; or, for those that
prefer to fly, the airstrip in the
reserve facilitates a quick flight.
Conservation and a low
footprint are the watchwords here,
and being able to make an active
contribution to this effort is the
single biggest reason co-owners
participate. Imagine the rare
privilege of walking with rhinos
with the reserve’s anti-poaching
team that you are actively helping
to protect. Here’s a project which
enables you to contribute to the
long-term conservation effort, while
having absolute freedom on safari.
To learn more about how you can
get involved in this important effort,
visit www.partofafrica.com.
www.partofafrica.com
sylvia@partofafrica.com
paul@partofafrica.com
Indaba

Go your own way

Owning your own…

P R AC T I C A L I T I E S
If you fancy the freedom of self-driving around Africa for a
First up, find a good, fully-equipped,

¹
longer period of time, then owning your own vehicle could
reliable vehicle — Foley’s (www.
be the way to go. For the past 15 years, Graham Everett foleysv.com) has a few already
and his wife have done just that. Here’s their story… prepared for overlanding for sale.
It costs about £4,000 to ship a
2 vehicle to Africa from the UK (less if

M
y wife and I first
visited Africa in
1989, touring Kenya
armed with just our trusted
Rough Guide. We returned
in 1993 and 1995 with our
three boys, venturing into
Tanzania as well. I have
always liked to arrange our
own travel, initially to save
money but also to visit
interesting, off-the-tourist-
track places. Some years
later, I watched the TV
programme Vets in the Wild
with Steve Leonard, who
travelled from Cape Town
to Mombasa in a converted
Land Rover Defender. And
an idea formed.
It was our dream when
we retired to get a vehicle
like that and travel. The BBC
told me it was a Foley’s (of
Harlow, Essex) vehicle that
Leonard travelled in, so we
contacted them. The guys
there were fantastic; they
spent a lot of time talking
with us about what we
planned to do. And, some
18 months later, in 2007,
when we retired, Foley
took an ex-army Defender,
stripped it and built us an
amazing mobile home,
with two fridges, a 90-litre
water tank with filter and
pump, a gas cooker, an
enlarged 135-litre fuel tank
and two solar panels. They
then arranged to ship it to
Walvis Bay in Namibia — a
very easy place to start our
travels; the roads are good
and there aren’t many other
vehicles on the road.
We found the campsites
were full of fellow self-drive
travellers, who always had
plenty of recommendations
— where to stay, where
leopards were seen… Now,
having since travelled just
over 200,000km, I find
myself doing the same thing.
For the first couple
of years we travelled for
eight months at a time,
but now we return every
year for about three or four
months. When not on the
road, we leave our Landy
with a wonderful mechanic
who lives about 30km
from Windhoek Airport. It’s
always in perfect condition
when we pick it up, despite
whatever we put it through
the previous year.
O N T H E R OA D
We often have friends and
relatives join us for part of
our trip. I like to take them
you can share a container).
You will need a Carnet de Passages,
3 which allows you to take your
vehicle into all countries without
paying import tax.
You cannot leave a vehicle in any
4 country in the Southern African
Development Community area for
more than a year at a time.
There are plenty of places across
5 southern Africa that store vehicles,
which costs about US$80 a month.
They will start the car frequently, and
take you to and from the airport.
Insure your vehicle for travelling
6 in Africa — I use Leadenhall (www.
leadenhall-uw.com).
I use a Garmin Sat Nav loaded with
7 Tracks4Africa, which has every road
from Cape Town to Cairo, including all
the dirt tracks in every national park.
There is also an app called
8 iOverlander, which has great info on
campsites, mechanics and more.
If you feel you need support on
9 the road, I have met people being
guided in their own vehicle, both
individually and in groups. Or, if
you go down the hire route, some
companies provide itineraries to set
you on your way.

to places I’m familiar Trunk calls.

The author packs
with, so I usually start
the vehicle under
in Windhoek, heading supervision, at
to Etosha, the Zambezi Third Bridge
campsite in
Region and into Botswana, Moremi Game
to Chobe and Senyati Reserve, Botswana.
Camp, then Zimbabwe Everything has
its place in the
for Hwange and over the customised
bridge at Victoria Falls into Defender.

72 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

Zambia, on to Lusaka and
finally South Luangwa (our
favourite place).
I have friends who
regularly take safaris in
Africa but fly straight into
camp, never having seen
how the locals live or the
countryside. They miss
how, when you drive along
what appears uninhabited
land, out of the bush
comes someone holding
a chicken, a bowl of nuts,
fruit or even mice for sale.
We have travelled
through Eswatini, up
through Kruger, into
Mozambique, along the
coast — we even flew over
to Bazaruto Island for 10
days, leaving our Landy
parked on the runway at
Vilanculos — into an empty
Gorongosa National Park
and over the Shire River
into Malawi. On another
trip, we headed to Malawi
up into Tanzania, spent
a week in Ruaha (where
we saw only one other
vehicle), on up to Dar
es Salaam and over to
Zanzibar for a few days,
before renting a bungalow
south of Diani Beach.
Next up is a trip with
our grandchildren, starting
in Lusaka. When they
leave, we shall head east
to Malawi, visiting some of
the parks that have been
restocked and managed
by African Parks. When
we get to Nairobi, we plan
to leave our trusty vehicle
with Paul Foley’s son Nick,
who has a garage there.
So, next year we shall
head to uncharted roads
in Uganda and Rwanda,
hoping we are fit enough
to encounter the gorillas
and then chimps in Kibale.
My favourite campsite: 21 Dunes in the Kalahari,
between Stampriet and Aranos, is well maintained,
has its own shower, toilet, washing-up facilities, a
relaxation area under a canopy and a braai. It’s well
off the beaten track, where you can find peace and
seclusion, along with amazing sunsets and stars.
Bedding down CAMPSITE
ETIQUETTE:
Do:
Most self-drivers rely on public
campsites for overnight stops. But Camp in a
designated site
what should you expect at these sites?
Keep noise
Seasoned self-driver Linda Cameron levels down,
shares her campsite tips especially at night
Manage your campfire
C
amping in Africa gives you the chance to immerse and make sure it is completely out
yourself in nature and to stay in some incredible before you go to bed
locations, often with breathtaking views. Use the refuse bins provided
Namibia’s camping infrastructure, in particular, Recycle what cannot be used
is excellent, making it one of the easiest self-drive Buy firewood on route where
destinations. Throughout the country you’ll find possible
managed campsites that are clean, affordable and Remember it can get cold at
come with good facilities. night, so wrap up
Sites vary from peaceful and secluded wilderness Always carry a few rolls of
with basic facilities and shared toilet and shower blocks, toilet paper
to those run by local communities and to more luxurious Camping practices that are
campsites with private ablutions, restaurant and a respectful to the animals and the
swimming pool. environment are a must
Do your research before your travel. Book ahead
where you can (either directly or through a tour operator) Don’t:
and choose sites that suit your needs. If it is high season, Don’t leave
it is advisable to book before you travel, especially for anything around
those sites located near tourist attractions, which will your tent that can be
likely be very busy. picked up by animals
It does not take long to get into the camping rhythm. Don’t keep food in
At the end of the day you swap sunglasses for a head your tent
torch, t-shirt and shorts for trousers and a long-sleeved Don’t leave your shoes outside
shirt, light the braai, open a beer and settle down to USEFUL RESOURCES: FACEBOOK GROUPS
enjoy the soundtrack of the African night. ’CAMPING IN NAMIBIA’ AND ‘DRIVE NAM’.
W H AT TO E X P E C T AT N A M I B I A N C A M P S I T E S
Ablution facilities with hot showers and mostly flush toilets (a few are long drop)
Running water | Washing-up facilities | Dedicated stone or metal fireplace
Firewood is sometimes provided | The majority have a security guard at night
Apart from wilderness sites, most are fenced | Some have electricity | Most
offer activities | Often pitches are allocated on booking; if not, check out the
direction of the sun and choose one that will get the most shade and is as flat as
possible | Some might provide an evening meal if you want a night off cooking
DESERT DRIVE: NAMIBIA HAS ABOUT 48,875KM OF ROADS | 73
 ÃKhetha eyakho iNdlelaÄ
(Xhosa)
ÏChoose your own pathÐ

nture across South Africa.

Take a Jimny 4x4 for a self-drive adve
with everything you need and
Our rental vehicles are ready-packed
explore. The Jimny is nippy,
nothing you donÒt, so you are free to
nd clearance, making it
lightweight, light on fuel, with high grou
Cam ping trailers also offered.
ideal for safaris or scenic roadtrips.
you need !
WeÒll tailor the vehicle for what

www.treadlite4x4.co.za
WhatsApp: +27 60 3023207

J9*:*L?= '?ĪJL r =Ī<3&3Ī

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vvv-b`odbqnrr-nqfvÀœ˜ÌœvwViJV>«iVÀœÃðœÀ} https://gondwana.travel/

SUBSCRIBE AT WWW.TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM 75
 Indaba
African swallow-tailed kite

BIRDING, SENEGAL

Where next? Senegal is home to 560 species of bird, with Sahel

You’re well-travelled safari-
goers, always with an eye
on the next adventure. With
so much to explore across
the vast continent, it was
no surprise that when we
asked you for your bucket list
destinations, it was an exciting
mix of renowned and off-the-
beaten track parks. Wildlife is
clearly a strong motivation, but
you’re also drawn to dramatic
landscapes, where you can
get away from the crowds and
immerse yourself in nature.
Here’s your collective wishlist.
specialities more easily seen here than elsewhere,
such as the quail and Egyptian plovers, Arabian and
Savile’s bustards, Sudan golden sparrow and Mali firefinch.
The wetlands of Djoudi National Park are awash with
birdlife, including a massive great white pelican colony; Senegal
while the Saloum Delta boasts roosts of some 45,000
raptors, including lesser kestrels and African swallow-
tailed kites — one of the world’s top birding spectacles.
Somalia
“I don’t know how much of the pre-colonial and
colonial structures are left, but pre-war photos show
a stunning city on the coast of the Indian Ocean.”
“Tswalu, after reading about it in the magazine.”
South
“Thendele hutted camp; Royal Natal National Park” Africa
Karoo
“Having already spent a few
Kilimanjaro
very special days in the Mara
it would be wonderful to see Serengeti Tanzania
more wildlife in the Serengeti.”

Bucket
“Any camps, preferably away from the crowds
Zanzibar list
of the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater.”

“Especially the spice farms and Stone Town.” Ruaha NP

Uganda
“We would like to try something not on the beaten track.
Namiri Plains is on our wishlist, along with Ruaha.”
“Mountains of the moon” (Rwenzoris)
Zambia
Kidepo National Park
“I am very fond of hyenas
and would love to visit Liuwa. “Gorilla trek”
Ideally I would love to drive
Liuwa Plain NP
independently through the
bush in a 4x4, but we are Kafue NP Zimbabwe
sadly past the age where Bangweulu Wetlands
that would be practical!” South Luangwa NP
“The bat migration in Kasanka” Gabon
“Zambia’s national parks”
SEE PAGE 80
Mana Pools
The Sovereign
houseboat Matobo Hills “Especially Lopé National Park for
Lake Kariba the gathering of the mandrills.”
LAKE KARIBA
DAVID RODGERS / JENMAN SAFARIS

Renowned for its spectacular Hwange NP

sunsets, serene beauty,
wildlife-rich shorelines and
superb fishing, Lake Kariba
is a prime bucket-lister.
The best way to enjoy the
trappings of this manmade
phenomenon is on a
houseboat, the ideal mobile
home well suited for groups.
MANDRILLS, LOPÉ NP, GABON ABON
00 mandrills, the
Lopé is a vital refuge for some 1400
world’s largest monkey. While it may be easier to see
these colourful face-painted primates in Lékédi, also
in Gabon, if you want to find truly wild mandrills, then
Lopé is the place to go. The park is also home to
Western gorillas, sun-tailed guenon, black colobus,
chimpanzee and forest elephant.
NATURE PICTURE LIBRARY / ALAMY

76 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

Angola Bucket list

Algeria “I am drawn to Algeria’s fascinating political history with beautiful Mediterranean and desert settings.” SEE PAGE 78

Kalahari Desert A fabled ‘discovery’ in 1885 of large stones

“Lost City of the Kalahari’ that formed semi-circular structures
has prompted some 30 expeditions
Botswana Kubu Island, Makgadikgadi Pans to find them — all to no avail.
Okavango Delta
Central
African “Dzanga-Sangha Special Reserve evokes in me the sense of
Republic impenetrable jungle that drew me to Africa since childhood.”

Zakouma NP SEE PAGE 79

Chad
“River trip on the Congo.”

“River Congo and the Virungas. Perhaps meet Prince

Congo Emmanuel de Merode. This man is a living legend.”
“Do a long trip with Congo Conservation Company,
visiting all their lodges, camps and places.” SEE PAGE 82

Ethiopia
“Culture and wildlife”

Tsavo National Park RWANDA: BEYOND GORILLAS

DANA ALLEN / WILDERNESS

Kenya Amboseli SEE PAGE 116 “All right, but apart from the
Kora NP thriving Akagera National Park —
central Africa’s largest protected
wetland — the untouched tropical
rainforest of Nyungwe, the great
Madagascar “Including whale-watching.” lake of Kivu, eight volcanoes,
the dynamic capital of Kigali,
memorable self-drive experiences
and just being a great all-round
WHALE-WATCHING, MADAGASCAR
destination, what have the
Malawi Head to Madagascar from June to
Rwandans ever done for us?”
Lake Malawi September to catch the humpback whale
“Mountain gorillas?”
migration, as large numbers of these
“Oh, mountain gorillas.”
Mozambique humungous beasts head to warmer waters
Gorongosa
from the Antarctic to breed. Top spotting
spots include Île Sainte Marie, an island off
Mada’s east coast, and Ifaty
“They have turned a highly- in the northwest. They then travel with
Mali poached area into a thriving their new-borns past Tsarabanjina and
reserve with the co-operation Nosy Be on the western side of the
of the local people.” island, before returning south.

Namibia
“Brown hyena at the Skeleton Coast.”
“To see the desert elephants and lions.”

DESERT ELEPHANTS, NAMIBIA

Nigeria “As someone who loves the energy of African cities, and a longtime reader
According to Elephant Human
of Nigerian literature, I’ve long wanted to visit Nigeria. I assume
Relations Aid, there are as few as
Lagos would be the ultimate urban adventure on the continent.” SEE PAGE 82
62 desert-adapted elephants left in
the ephemeral rivers of Namibia’s
“I have no interest in trekking to see gorillas. I just feel it is too intrusive southern Kunene and northern
Rwanda Erongo regions. With larger feet
on their lives. But there are so many other places to visit and revisit...”
than those of their savannah-based
“To see the mountain gorillas.” SEE PAGE 78 cousins, they can traverse more
Rwanda easily across the sand.
Gabon
They seem to be actively exploring sustainability and better governance, and those values underpin a stronger tomorrow.”
Ethiopia

WHERE NEXT? TELL US YOUR BUCKET LIST AND WE’LL COVER IT IN A FUTURE ISSUE. EDITOR@TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM | 77
Indaba

Algeria?
You’re
welcome

MARK STRATTON
Mark Stratton recently returned from a visit THE THRILLA
IN GORILLA

F
or years, looking at my wall-map of M O U N TA I N G O R I L L A S ,
Africa served to reinforce a sizeable
D R C O N G O, R WA N D A
gap in my knowledge of the continent.
How could I know so little about Algeria, A N D U GA N DA
Africa’s largest country? To say it is enigmatic
seemed almost an understatement. While all three countries offer an
Although, in my mitigation, since equally rewarding experience in
independence from France in 1962, news terms of gorilla trekking, and you’re
JANIE BAXTER

emanating from it has invariably been of 98 per cent guaranteed to see them
political tumult and civil war — and indeed, wherever you go, here’s a few things
visas remain unstraightforward to obtain. you might want to consider when
Yet as it slowly opens, and with a growing In 2007 I flew from Algiers to choosing your final destination:
number of small group tours establishing Permit cost: Currently, DRC sets you
Tamanrasset, then spent five days driving
there, now is the time to be at the vanguard back US$400; Uganda US$700 and
around the Ahaggar region of the Sahara. Rwanda US$1500 per person.
of discovering Algeria’s myriad natural and
Apart from visiting one Tuareg village we Accessibility: Rwanda’s Volcanoes NP
cultural wonders.
only saw the occasional nomad. We went is easier to get to than DRC or Uganda.
I hadn’t imagined it possessed a
to Ghardaia, where the M’zab people live, It is a two-to three-hours’ drive from
Mediterranean coastline so touched by past Kigali; Uganda’s Bwindi is about nine
civilisations: from Phoenicians and Romans then drove to Timimoun oasis town and
hours from Entebbe, while DRC’s
to the Ottoman Empire — all leaving an stayed a couple of nights there before Virunga has its own challenges. Having
archaeological footprint comparable to returning to Algiers. said that, Uganda has more habituated
Egypt. And I certainly hadn’t imagined that JANIE BAXTER, UK groups, enabling more people to visit.
during my journey into the Sahara I would Length of trek: Not much difference
enter such a traditional and conservative here: in all three, you can opt for a
realm, so unchanged over centuries, amid shorter or longer trek depending on
your fitness and where the gorillas
exquisitely sculped dune fields. There’s no
are. Allow anything from 30 minutes
better place to enter the Sahara, given Mali
to six hours. Uganda has thicker
WILD FRONTIERS UGANDA

and Niger’s current travails. jungle and steeper slopes to cope

Yet what really enabled me to fall in love with than the others.
with Algeria were the people, who, after When to go: It’s possible to see the
decades of isolationism, are now able to gorillas year-round, but the dry seasons
express a fresh welcome and hospitality of June to August and December to
which throughout was overwhelming. February make trekking easier.

78 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA


Did someone suggest Chad?
When we asked guide Ant Kaschula to tell us why readers
should visit Zakouma, Chad’s flagship national park now run
by African Parks, he was actually on safari in the park…
T
here’s nowhere else in Africa like
Zakouma. For me, it is the most
incredible safari destination
anywhere, with a staggering abundance
and diversity of wildlife and birdlife that
puts it in a league of its own.
On a daily basis you can see
astonishing amounts of wildlife. Today
at Rigueik, one of the open plains in
the northeast of the park, we saw two
herds of at least 1000 buffalo each, a
herd of several hundred tiang, several
hundred reedbuck, probably over 1000
waterbuck, Lelwel hartebeests in the
hundreds and more than 100 giraffe.
And then there’s the birdlife. We
saw a spectacle of tens of thousands of
doves at one of the pools — the sky was
absolutely full with them, massing like
quelea coming in to drink. You’ve got
black-crowned cranes in their thousands,
making this beautiful honking sound,
Spurwing geese and African comb ducks
by the thousand. Everything you see here
is in numbers that you cannot begin to
imagine. I was here recently with keen
birders and we saw 50 or 60 new lifers.
African Parks has turned Zakouma
into probably one of the best
conservation success stories of any park
Buffaloes gather in huge
herds on the plains at Rigueik
SUCCESS: IN 2017 AFRICAN PARKS MERGED SINIAKA MINIA AND BAHR-SALAMAT WILDLIFE RESERVES INTO THE GREATER ZAKOUMA ECOSYSTEM | 79
in Africa. The elephant population, which
had fallen from around 7000 to about
400, is now on the increase. Buffalo
number between 12,000 and 14,000; last
year 1000 were moved out of the park to
a new area and they’re looking to do the
same again later this year.
The wildlife here is a bit different to
what you might find elsewhere. You’ve
got Buffon’s kob, western kudu, North
African (red-necked) ostrich, Kordofan
giraffe, Lelwel’s hartebeest, red-fronted
gazelle, western roan, harnessed
bushbuck, Bohor reedbuck and of
course tiang… all defined species or sub-
species of antelope that you won’t see
on safari in East or southern Africa.
This morning we saw a pride of nine
lions, a lioness with two cubs and later
another lioness with four cubs. We have
been here for three full days (out of a
total of twelve), and we have seen lions
on every game drive apart from one.
We’ve seen striped hyena, pale fox,
civets, serval and genets.
On a night drive, when you pan
the spotlight over Salamat River you
can count hundreds and hundreds of
amber crocodile eyes. In some of the
pools there are catfish, 20-or 30-pound
Bucket list
Also in Chad:
Ennedi Natural and Cultural
Reserve: The “Eden in the
Sahara”, Ennedi is a ‘garden’
of sandstone cliffs, arches,
mushroom rocks, labyrinths,
water reservoirs and 7000-year-
old rock art.
Binder-Léré Faunal Reserve:
See the venerated Gauthiot Falls,
manatee, hippo, elephant, giraffe
and plenty of waterbirds.
Manda National Park: This easily
accessible park comprises
woodland, savannahs and
floodplains; see lion, other large
mammals and an array of birds.
vundu; swarms of fish gulping air and
slithering over each other.
Zakouma is not the easiest place to
get to, and certainly not the cheapest,
but it is absolutely first-class. If you
can come with a private guide, the
flexibility you have is unrivalled. You
can drive off-road, walk, fly-camp…
Camp Nomade accommodates
eight people, 15-20 can stay at Tinga
Camp, and that’s basically it for the
whole park. Tinga is fairly basic, but
we have electricity, fans, flush loos,
comfortable beds, and cold drinks…
all the basic comforts you need.
ANT KASCHULA RUNS
PRIVATE GUIDED SAFARIS
ANT KASCHULA / PRIVATE GUIDED SAFARIS
MUKAMBI SAFARIS

The seasonal Busanga Plains Camp, on the vast

Busanga Plains in northern Kafue National Park

Spoiled for choice

Zambia received more nominations for your Bucket List than most
countries, with readers citing a range of parks they would like to
EDWARD SELFE PHOTOGRAPHIC SAFARIS

visit. So we asked Philip Briggs for his advice to first-time visitors

Shoebill in Bangweulu swamps
The word that springs to mind when describing Zambia’s national parks is ‘wild’. Which
is not to say that other, more mainstream safari destinations such as Kenya or Botswana
are any less wild on a measurable scale. More that my abiding impression of Zambia’s
parks is an untrammelled and deliciously unpackaged feel that makes them ideal for
independent-minded exploration. Zambia also boasts some incredible travel highlights.
Here are a few tips for visiting some of my favourites.

KAFUE: wetland is practically KASANKA:

One of Africa’s largest
national parks, Kafue can
feel like a patchwork of
smaller safari destinations,
each with its own distinct
character and attractions.
It’s worth doing some
research before you plan a
STEPHEN BELCHER / MINDEN PICTURES / SUPERSTOCK
synonymous with one of
Africa’s most alluring and
bizarre birds: the enigmatic
shoebill. Bangweulu hosts
the world’s most southerly
population of shoebills, an
estimated 500 individuals,
which comprises around
Kasanka is the focal point
of Africa’s largest mammal
migration. Yes, you read
that correctly! For every
wildebeest that marches
across the Serengeti Plains,
around ten times as many
straw-coloured fruit bats

visit, but I’d recommend the
Busanga and Nanzhila plains
for viewing carnivores, Lake
Itezhi-Tezhi for dry-season
elephant concentrations,
and any of the riverside
camps for boat trips on the
Kafue and its tributaries.
Straw-coloured fruit bats at
B A N GW E U LU :
Kasanka National Park For birdwatchers, this
10,000-square-kilometre
10 per cent of the global
total. They can be seen
on dugout tours into the
swamps, but usually only
in the first half of the year,
when the water is at its
highest. Note also that
tourist activity is focused
on the southern end of
the swamps, not around
the more northerly Lake
Bangweulu.
amass annually on Kasanka.
The first wave usually
arrives in October, numbers
peak over November, and
they’re gone again by
late December. It is worth
getting your timing right,
as the sight of up to 12
million heavyweight bats
(wingspan 75cm) erupting
from the forest at dusk is
truly mind-blowing!

80 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

Indaba
Bucket list
TIME+TIDE AFRICA
Tracking the wildebeest on Liuwa Plain,
L I U WA P L A I N :
from Time+Tide King Lewanika Another rather niche safari
destination, Liuwa Plain
forms the arena for Africa’s
second-largest wildebeest
migration, which comprises
at least 35,000 adults and
is most likely to be seen
in action over November
and December. A great
off-the-beaten-track 4x4
destination, Liuwa is the
sort of place where you can
drive all day without seeing
another vehicle. Highlights
include the opportunity to
watch some of the park’s
PETER GERAERDTS / TRACK AND TRAIL RIVER CAMP
500-odd spotted hyenas
South Luangwa is one of the best
places in Africa to see leopards
interacting around their
dens, and the stunning
birdlife, which includes
wattled crane, grey
crowned crane, secretary
bird, Denham’s bustard and
rosy-throated longclaw.
LUA N GWA
VA L L E Y :
South Luangwa is Zambia’s
most popular national
park, and there are few
better places anywhere
for leopard sightings or
walking safaris. For an
exclusive off-the-beaten-
track Luangwa experience,
I recommend one of the
more isolated lodges or
bush camps. For self-
drivers, remote North
Walking by the lagoons near Old
Mondoro Camp in Lower Zambezi NP
PROTECTION: THERE ARE 20 NATIONAL PARKS AND 34 GAME MANAGEMENT AREAS IN ZAMBIA | 81
Luangwa now boasts a
couple of well-priced self-
catering camps.
T H E V I C TO R I A
FA L L S
( L I V I N G S TO N E ) :
A visit to Africa’s only
inclusion on the semi-
official list of the Seven
Wonders of the Natural
World is a no-brainer. But
I advise you to do some
advance research into
timing your visit. The
Zambian side of the falls is
most spectacular when the
water is high (the drenching
walk across Knife Edge
Bridge being an immersive
highlight), but popular
activities such as white-
water rafting only operate
when the water is lower.
LOW E R Z A M B E Z I :
This is my favourite national
park in Zambia. Something
of a mirror image to
Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools,
Lower Zambezi is most
notable for the opportunity
to canoe through a
magical riverine wilderness
inhabited by daunting
concentrations of hippo,
elephant and aquatic
birds. Leopard and African
wild dog sightings can be
fantastic.
CHIAWA SAFARIS
Indaba

available from street vendors. Arguably the

best Suya is from Glover Court Suya in Ikoyi

Lagos calling where the meat is cycled between dry spice,

hot fat and charcoal grill again and again
to build up a spicey crust that is something
very special indeed.
At weekends, many people go to one of
the beaches such as Landmark, Snake Island
and Tarkwa. Landmark is quite developed,
with bars and restaurants including a Hard
Rock Cafe. Tarkwa is more basic and has
one of the best surf spots I’ve ever been to,
overseen by coach Godpower, who taught
both my children to surf.

SIMON PEARSON
On the cultural side the New Afrika
Shrine is a must on a Sunday night, to see
Femi Kuti and his band play. Vesta Orchestra
is also essential if you happen to visit when
they’re performing a concert. Founded by
Subscriber Simon Pearson lives in Nigeria’s largest city… Rosalyn Aninyei in 2017, it aims to see more
African representation in classical music

L
agos is not for the faint hearted and
can be very daunting to a first-timer.
Taxis are not recommended as they
are often used for nefarious means, so
having a contact or guide who can meet
you at the airport is essential. However,
once away from the airport it can be a
fantastic, vibrant city to explore, particularly
in the relatively safer, more developed areas
of Lagos Island, Ikoyi and Victoria Island.
The restaurant scene is quite extensive,
with everything from pizza to Thai, Chinese,
Indian, sushi and especially Lebanese. A
particular favourite is Nok, a West African
fusion restaurant with interesting takes
on traditional local foods. If you want to
push the boat out there is Itan Test Kitchen
where Nigerian chef Michael Elégbèdé
and his team are constantly reimagining
different ways Nigerian ingredients can
be used to create a remarkable eating
experience. Obviously there are also the
more traditional local specialities like jollof
rice, pepper soup and Suya (my favourite)
by curating and commissioning works by
composers of African descent. Freedom
Park is another essential visit for modern
Nigerian live music.
Lagos certainly has its fair share of issues:
crime, grinding poverty, recurring fuel
shortages, a cash shortage and a very poor
infrastructure (there’s almost a constant hum
of generators). However, all that is offset by
the incredible warmth and energy of the
people that make a visit to Lagos a truly
unforgettable experience.

N AT U R E N I R VA N A
O D Z A L A- KO KO U A N AT I O N A L PA R K , C O N G O
There are roughly 10,000 species of tropical plants in the Congo Basin, 30 per cent of which are
endemic. And at the Basin’s heart is one of Africa’s oldest national parks, Odzala-Kokoua. The
park’s mosaic of rainforests, savannahs, rivers and baïs are a haven for the Western lowland gorilla,
forest elephant, buffalo, bongo, giant forest hog and many other flora and fauna. This is Africa at its
remotest and wildest best, so allow yourself at least a week to breathe in the lungs of Africa.
CONGO CONSERVATION COMPANY
 Photographic workshops and private safaris
in South Luangwa NP, Zambia

A unique way to discover

unspoiled wilderness and to have
the opportunity to improve your
photographic skills with professional
guide, Peter Geraerdts.
Please get in touch, without
obligation, for rates and availability
in 2023. We have maximum six
people per vehicle, with camera
support systems.
South Luangwa is a guaranteed
top wildlife destination for
nature lovers and keen
photographers.

Feeling adventurous?
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Track & Trail River Camp
www.nativeeyetravel.com www.trackandtrailrivercamp.com
LQIR#QDWLYHH\HWUDYHOFRP www.petergeraerdts.com
+44 1473 328546 info@trackandtrailrivercamp.com

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84 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 Privately guided and hosted safari to
ZAKOUMA NATIONAL PARK
31 March - 7 April 2024

For more information, please contact ant@privateguidedsafaris.com

www.privateguidedsafaris.com

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SUBSCRIBE AT WWW.TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM 85
Indaba

READERS’ PORTFOLIO
We asked to see some of your favourite shots, and you gave us a
headache: how to choose a selection for publication from such a
fantastic range of images? With limited space in these pages, we had
to narrow down a collection that showed some variety and told a story.
Limiting ourselves to only one per person was also frustrating, as you
are talented photographers! So, we will have to share more in a later
issue or in our email newsletters (sign up at travelafricamag.com).
In the meantime, we hope you enjoy this gallery, and thank you to
everyone who submitted the pick of their pics.

White-backed vultures, Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia

JONATHAN NEVILLE , UK

Ostriches visiting the dunes at Sossusvlei, Namib-Naukluft National Park, Namibia

GERO HEINE , USA

86 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

Indaba

Male and female lions at sundowners, Offbeat Mara Camp, Maasai Mara, Kenya
WILLIAM ATTWELL , UK

Cheetah headstart, Maasai Mara, Kenya Zebras coming over the hill, Kruger National Park, South Africa
ALF J NILSEN, NORWAY TONY CHILD, UK

88 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 What Africa means to me…

Giraffes at sunset, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania Alpha male baboon, Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana
STEFANO RAVALLI, USA STEPHEN SMITH, UK

THIS IS FUN: SHARE YOUR BEST PHOTOS FOR FUTURE ISSUES: EMAIL EDITOR@TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM | 89
Indaba

Ozonjuitji m’Bari waterhole, Etosha National Park, Namibia

GEIR OLAF GJERDEN, NORWAY

Baby elephant and mother’s touch, Chobe National Park, Botswana Mother and baby leopard, Chief’s Island, Okavango Delta, Botswana
CRAIG S HARRISON, USA THOMAS LANDGRAF, GERMANY

90 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 What Africa means to me…

Silverback mountain gorilla and his son, Bwindi NP, Uganda Hippo in the Chongwe River, Lower Zambezi National Park, Zambia
MARLEEN HAVERKAMP, THE NETHERLANDS HANNY GREENFELD, ISRAEL

TO BE CONTINUED: THANK YOU TO ALL READERS WHO SUBMITTED IMAGES FOR THIS GALLERY. WE WILL RUN MORE IN FUTURE ISSUES | 91
Golden monkey, Mgahinga National Park, Uganda
MAGNAR JACOBSEN, SWEDEN
Lounging leopard, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
SVEN-ERIC BALLER, SWITZERLAND
Indaba

A pair of Little bee-eaters, Chobe National Park, Botswana Elephant up close in Amboseli National Park, Kenya
NICK DALE , UK FRED HARWELL , USA

Elephants near Shumba Camp, Busanga Plains, Kafue National Park, Zambia
CARRIE BURHENN, USA

94 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

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 Central African Wilderness
Safaris

reservations@cawsmw.com
www.cawsmw.com
@caws_malawi / +265 888 822 398

Malawi ’s secret gem

Tongole Wilderness Retreat is proud to be a forerunner in

community conservation in Nkhotakota. Your visit contributes
greatly to the wellbeing of this beautiful national park, its wildlife GREAT VALUE | SUSTAγNABLE | A LA CARTE MENU | FAMγLY FRγENDLY
and the people within the area. The park, still in its infancy, is the
EHQH¿FLDU\RIPDQDJHPHQWE\$IULFDQ3DUNVLQFOXGLQJDSKDVHG A truly sustainable safari camp in Zambia's South Luangwa.
reintroduction of species contributing to the overall wildlife and Flatdogs Camp focuses on providing a unique safari experience,
wilderness experience. whilst protecting the surrounding environment through multiple
Make use of our special offers online, including: The bride has a conservation and community projects.
free third night on honeymoon; children 2-12 sharing get 50%
off, 10% group discount... and more. www.flatdogscamp.com
info@flatdogscamp.com
Learn more at www.tongole.com
reservations@tongole.com

SUBSCRIBE AT WWW.TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM 97
 'LVFRYHU WMSPQCJD

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VSHFLDOLVLQJLQ
EHVSRNHDGYHQWXUH
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=DPELDDQG
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JsvspwFmjgb_wq
Nature gq luxury. The masterfully painted sunset sky, the
captivating fauna decorating the African plains, and
the flawless dance of life and death between
predator and prey. Our partner lodges elegantly blend
into their luxurious environments because they
understand this.

?btclrspcRmspq
Feeling gq adventure. Feeling the playful energy of a
35-ton humpback whale jumping out of the water,
feeling the calming solitude of a cool mountain top,
and feeling the joy of connecting with local
communities and cultures.

D_kgjwEcr_u_wq
Place gq family. The places that remind you of how
small your problems are, the places that show you the
beauty of imperfection, and the places that bring
back your childish sense of wonder.

۬ƬȸƏǔɎƺƳƏǔȸǣƬƏ ‫החז׎גואזחדהאڷ‬ ɀƏǼƺɀ۬ƬȸƏǔɎƺƳƏǔȸǣƬƏِƬȒȅ ƬȸƏǔɎƺƳƏǔȸǣƬƏِƬȒȅ

 safari

Places to go. Plans to make. Lodges to choose. Trips to organise. Questions that
need answering. Here we get stuck into some of the practical issues on your mind.

Lion cubs in Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe, photographed by Carrie Burhenn:
CARRIE BURHENN

“These two cubs had just woken up and were soon playing with balls of elephant dung. They were part of a pride of
30 lions who, the following evening, killed seven buffalo during a spectacular stampede at Chitake Springs.”

SEE? LION CUBS ARE BORN BLIND AND ONLY BEGIN TO OPEN THEIR EYES AFTER ABOUT FOUR DAYS | 99
Your safari journey

When choosing your holiday, ensure that

the community and environment at your

Your top tips destination directly benefits from your

visit. Covid-19 had a devastating impact on
communities that depend on tourism; your
visit makes a positive impact.
Advice from fellow travellers. Born from experience.
+  +  +

Check vaccination requirements for the

When getting your visa,
check its validity
(usually three months
or less) and when it
becomes valid — the date
If you’ve only ever stayed in lodges,
book a mobile tented safari. It’s a
completely different experience —
less ‘luxurious’, but SO much more
country you are travelling to. Some require
you to have a yellow fever certificate
to enter, but rules change. The cost
of vaccinations and malaria pills can
substantially add to the cost of a holiday, so
stay up to date with the latest advice.
+  +  +

of issue or the date of Be sensitive about the use of photography.

arrival? Check if it is
a single entry or allows
multiple entries.
Read about the places you are
going. Knowing its history will help
you understand better the people
who live there.
Some people may not like their picture taken
by tourists (always ask first) and it is illegal in
some countries to photograph government
buildings, ports etc.

R E M E M B E R “A F R I C A T I M E ” — I T W I L L H A P P E N S O O N E R O R L AT E R !

When in the bush, always shake your shoes before putting them on — scorpions have a habit of hiding in them!
+  +  +

Be polite to officialdom. African officials have a bad rep, but on balance they’re much nicer to foreign tourists than Western
officials are to Africans. Treat them with respect, and chances are you won’t have any issues.
+  +  +

Your guide possesses a bounty of knowledge and wants to make your safari extraordinary, so ask questions about the wildlife,
the bush, the people. Engaging your guide will leave you with a richer, more memorable experience, as well as a new friend.

Take fewer clothes
overall. Laundry is
done in the camps, but
cultural mores often
mean you need to wash
your own underwear.
TIPPING POLICIES
C A N VA R Y
Less is more. Stay longer in one place and take your time to When visiting Victoria
watch and relax. Let the animals come to you. How many Falls, the best footwear
times have I been on a long game drive without seeing is Crocs — preferably
much, and returned to the lodge to be told “there was a with backs (not clogs
leopard in camp while you were away”... or flip flops) — as it
+  +  + is rocky underfoot, but
Have everything ready the night before (clothes, camera, trainers get soaked
suncream, day bag etc) so at early wake-up call you just and smell for days.
have to get up, dressed and out without faffing.
+  +  +

WITH CAMP OR Keep switching seats in the vehicle, and especially swop
Open-sided jeeps can be
C O U N T R Y, S O sides, otherwise you can get a stiff back from always surprisingly cool — pack
TA K E A D V I C E turning one way. warm layers.
F R O M YO U R
O P E R AT O R . I F
YO U H AV E R O O M , If you’re concerned about your bag being tampered with through airports,
FO OT BA L LS rather than shrinkwrap it, get a hard-shell suitcase (which has to be
WITH PUMPS opened out flat), lock it and put a strap around it. For soft cases, buy a
A R E A LWAY S suitcase sleeve or lightweight zip bag of the same capacity, pack that and
A P P R E C I AT E D I N put it in your suitcase, zip down. Placing an AirTag or tile in the bag
THE BUSH. will allow you to track it at all times.

100 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

D O N ’ T P L A N T O O A M B I T I O U S LY.
Travel slowly across the land. You get lovely
P E O P L E U N D E R E S T I M AT E H O W L O N G vistas from a Cessna, so try it once at least, but
A N D T I R I N G G E T T I N G F RO M A TO B the transition on the ground from populated to
CA N B E , A N D I T’S B E T T E R TO V I S I T wild area is always a thrill; often they are one
and the same thing. Walk up a mountain for the
F E W P L AC E S W I T H A L E V E L O F
same views, with a local guide. Stop and buy a
D E P T H , R AT H E R T H A N S K I M M I N G warm Coke or dubious-coloured soda from a
T H E S U R FA C E O F M A N Y. small shop. Ask questions about family. Then
resist taking a photo and trust your memory of
the moment.
A LW AY S H A V E A H E A D T O R C H T O H A N D

Take your time. If you spend longer in one spot (a waterhole),

Buy a good bird book. It is fun to check what bird you can see more. Don’t be disappointed if a waterhole seems
your guide was pointing at. Next time you may empty; animals will turn up that you don’t expect.
discover it yourself.
+  +  +
FO L LOW Try to go on safari without
At a sighting, take a minute or two to look around. In T H E “3 C S” O F expectations and take the time
Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools, we were watching a male I N T E R N AT I O N A L to just watch and take in your
lion roaring one evening. I happened to glance next T R AV E L : surroundings. Try not to see
to our vehicle and found that everything through your camera
a leopard was sitting there, D O N OT lens. Don’t just look at animals
watching him too! CRITICIZE and tick off a list. Take note of
+  +  +
+  +  + their behaviour; you never know
Wear closed-toe shoes at what else may be lurking in the
dinner. We had a scorpion
D O N OT bush around them.
show up at our table that C O M PA R E +  +  +
+  +  +
I luckily spotted before a Packing cubes are especially
fellow guest with sandals D O N OT useful where you are required
had a nasty shock! to carry soft bags. Rather than
COMPLAIN
turn everything out when you
need to find something, you
Spend time going through simply pull out a cube at a time. I
the photos you’ve taken Always take a good pair of binoculars, otherwise assign one for underwear/socks,
each day. Immediately you will miss some of the best sightings. one for safari shirts/shorts, one
delete the rubbish ones +  +  + for non-safari outfits, one for
(to save space on your When camping in a sub-Saharan winter, put toiletries etc.
memory card) and take on dry socks before getting into bed: the ones +  +  +

note of what you’ve
captured already.
This will help you focus
on what else you want
to photograph and will
ensure you don’t return
home with thousands
of similar pics.
you’ve worn all day are damp even if you Take a journal and write about
don’t feel it, and they’ll make your feet cold your experience while you are
while you sleep. there in the moment. Be mindful
+  +  + and get in touch with your
When travelling with young children, senses. Log how safari makes
remember that bugs are at least as fascinating you feel. It’s a great way to
as large mammals. bottle up the adventure and be
able to look back on it in years
to come.

L E A R N T O J U S T S I T A N D B E Q U I E T. A F R I C A M O V E S O N A D I F F E R E N T T I M E L I N E

Take a good pair of binoculars. Cameras fail. Memory cards fail… but your brain never does. You SEE more with good glass.

TRIVIA: SOUTH
TRIVIA OUTH AFRICA HAS 11 OFFICIAL LANGUAGES, GIVING IT THE NICKNAME “RAINBOW NATION” | 101
 Your safari journey

the Ministry of National

reader questions Security. They have

You asked. We answered.
“I’ve long had my eyes on a visit Oscar Scafidi,
to Equatorial Guinea, but the author of the ‘Bradt
Embassy in DC requires a ‘travel Guide to Equatorial
authorisation from the Ministry Guinea’, responds:
of National Security’. Nobody
has been able to explain to me Equatorial Guinea is one of
the process of applying for or the least visited countries
obtaining such authorisation, so in the world. This is not
any help you can provide would be surprising given their visa
most welcome.” policy, which only allows
visa-free access to nine
David Hananel, USA nations (mainly CEMAC
countries plus US citizens,
thanks to links between
the two countries’ oil
industries, going back
decades). The latest World
Bank data suggests the
country received only
6,000 tourism visitors
in the year before the
Covid-19 pandemic shut
down global travel.
There has long been
talk from the government
of developing tourism as
a strategy for diversifying
the economy away from oil
reliance, with ecotourism
highlighted as a priority
in the national Agenda
2030 Development Plan. In
September 2022, intrepid
OSCAR SCAFIDI
writing it still had not been
implemented.
The e-visa demo page
at VFS Global (who will
handle the applications)
implies that this will be a
cheaper, easier and quicker
application process than
the current one, which
costs up to US$200, takes
weeks and usually requires
all sorts of onerous
documentation including
an invitation letter and
an entry authorisation
letter issued by Equatorial
Guinea’s Ministry of
National Security.
This authorisation is
almost impossible to get
for anyone but a business
working in Equatorial
Guinea. As such, you
generally need to pay a
tour company in-country
to do it for you (like Rumbo
Malabo or GuineaTur),
but this is expensive,
and they usually only
help out people who are
using their services upon
arrival. Alternatively, a few
independent travellers
done this by shopping
around for Equatoguinean
consulates that are
less fussy about their
paperwork requirements.
In theory, US citizens
could simply show up
at an Equatoguinean
border and ask to be
issued a visa on arrival. In
reality, most airlines will
not let US citizens board
without seeing some sort
of travel authorisation
(or visa waiver letter)
from an Equatoguinean
consulate in their country
of residence. As such,
independent tourism
remains very difficult in
Equatorial Guinea. This
will not change until the
new e-visa system is
implemented (if ever).
I have lived, worked and
travelled across more than
thirty African countries
and found Equatorial
Guinea to be one of my
favourites, despite the
bureaucratic frustrations
associated with getting
in. The isolation, the
Spanish cultural heritage,
the variety of landscapes,
people and wildlife, the
stunning new capital
city in the jungle. It really
does merit a few weeks of
exploration, and all on an

travellers were excited to have managed to gain excellent road network,

hear talk of a potential new entry without an official so no annoying pothole-
e-visa, but at the time of invitation or approval from plagued car journeys!

E Q UATO R I A L G U I N E A H I G H L I G H T S I N C LU D E :
The colonial architecture of Malabo on Bioko island
The black, volcanic sand beaches of Ureca, at the southern tip of the Luba Crater Scientific Reserve
Lowland gorillas in Monte Alén National Park
Cidade da Paz (formerly Oyala), the shiny new capital city in the jungle
The unique Portuguese creole spoken on isolated Annobón island

102 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 “It’s a real challenge to travel from
the US, particularly the west coast,
to Africa without it taking multiple
flights and overnight stops, costing
a fortune and eating into several days
of my limited holiday time.
Do you have any advice to make it
less painful?”

Sharon Taylor, USA

Jim Holden clients who stopover
of Holden in Dubai for a couple
Safaris, based of nights to see the old
in California, city and experience
replies: the desert, staying
in Bedouin tents and
One trick when flying spotting Arabian oryx.
from California to Think of it as an Arabian
Nairobi, for example, safari. Connecting
is to take a cheap through Europe (with
domestic flight to BA, Air France, KLM,
New York and connect etc) is another good
MICHAEL RUNKEL / ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY

to Kenya Airways’ option, but don’t be

non-stop flight on afraid to look to the
their state-of-the- likes of Turkish and
art 787 Dreamliner. Ethiopian for cheaper
The Kenyan carrier alternatives.
also has excellent However, try and
onward connections minimise the number of
throughout Africa. connections you have;
Alternatively, if it may be cheaper, but
going to southern it’s a false economy.
Africa, fly domestic to While it may take
Newark or Washington up time you’d rather
DC and take the spend on safari, I never
Top: Scenic beaches line the
coastline, particularly between direct United Airlines book back-to-back
Malabo and Lubo flight to Cape Town. flights with an arriving
Above: Malabo boasts Spanish
colonial architecture, including
Then there’s Delta, international flight into
the Santa Isabel Cathedral with its non-stop Africa connecting the
Left: The coastal town of Bata flights from Atlanta to same day to a safari
Below: Waterfall in Monte Alén
National Park Johannesburg. camp. There is too
Don’t rule out much to go wrong, with
overnight stops — delays and potentially
they can be used missing connections,
to your advantage causing undue stress.
sightseeing-wise. The Rather, add a stopover
Middle East airlines, and allow yourself a
Opposite: such as Emirates and good night’s sleep after
The interior of the
Qatar, have excellent the long trans-Atlantic
impressive Basilica of the
Immaculate Conception in frequencies in Africa flight, then catch your
Mongomo. Consecrated from their respective safari flight the next day
in 2011, it is the second
largest Catholic church
hubs in Dubai and refreshed and ready for
in Africa Doha. I have many your first game drive.

FLY KQ: NEW YORK TO NAIROBI DIRECT IS ABOUT 15 HOURS | 103

 Your safari journey

“My perception (maybe unfairly) is

that you need big bucks to go to
Zambia, unless you want to ‘rough it’.
Are there any ‘budget’ options?”

Alison Dewar, UK
Leslie Nevison of Zambian operators
Mama Tembo Tours offer mobile safaris
Zambia, replies: (which travel by road
and mostly camp), but
It’s my experience that there is the erroneous
the cost of an all- perception that camping
inclusive Zambia safari should be cheaper than a
is in line with many moderately priced lodge.
other top African safari However, a great deal of
destinations. In fact, effort goes into a mobile
CRAIG RIX

Zambia’s economical safari if it is done well

lodges (anywhere from and it is hard work for the
US$350 to US$650 small crew.

Tipping tips
“If ever there was a subject that makes [you] sweat
per person per day) are
remarkably good value
A sure way of
economising in Zambia
for their modest sizes, is to self-drive and camp
under the collar and feel socially awkward it has to
quality of guiding and (or stay in moderately
be gratuities,” says David Cartwright of ATI Holidays.
He’s not alone. Tipping etiquette is a topic that many services, and quieter priced lodges); while
of you have asked us about. With that in mind, here’s game routes. Zambia an economical itinerary
a quick guide to this age-old conundrum… has always attracted sees a balance between
repeat visitors, who national parks, where

1 money given to someone as 6 directly and separately;

A tip is defined as “a sum of Guides tend to be tipped understand its value daily park fees and bed
after experiencing safaris levies are incurred, and
a reward for a service”. ‘Reward’ and usually at a higher amount elsewhere. some of the country’s
being the operative word per day. Undeniably, it is great destinations

2 7
It’s discretionary, in that it’s Tips should be made at the expensive getting around outside of wildlife areas.
up to you how much you give end of your stay. Zambia on internal But, again, it should be

8
and whether you feel the service Occasionally, you may use flights, and I would like noted that the (higher)
you received is deserving. Don’t other people, not directly to see this improve. But national park fees fund
tip if the service has been poor. connected with the camp (for it should be noted that, conservation.

3
As a ballpark, US$10-$15 example a boat driver), for while transport may cost Most self-drivers and
per day is usual, but ask whom a US$5 tip is appropriate. less in neighbouring campers — including

the camp manager or your
tour operator if you are unsure
— however, there is no hard-
and-fast rule and there may be
regional variations.
9
Remember, guides, drivers,
chefs, camp staff and others,
including their families, are
often dependent on tips
as a part of their income.
countries, the price of myself — won’t agree
accommodation of the they are “roughing it”.
same standard is rarely It’s a travel choice too. I
different. find that if I include a few
days camping

4
Bring enough small in an itinerary,
denomination notes with For a more comprehensive then it often
look at tipping, turn to
you to cover tips for the duration becomes
pages 164-165 in issue 88
of your trip; while dollars is the a favourite
of Travel Africa.
norm, euros or local currency memory.
are equally acceptable. Above: Service with a
smile. The kitchen team

5
Most lodges have a
communal tip box, normally
found in reception or the main
sitting area. This is to be used for
tips for general camp staff.
at Wilderness Linkwasha,
Hwange NP, Zimbabwe.
A communal tip box is Left:
provided in main living Elephants crossing
areas to reward general the Luangwa River,
camp staff such as these. South Luangwa NP

104 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

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SUBSCRIBE AT WWW.TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM 105

 Your safari journey
Where?
South Africa is a great
base. Overnight flights and
minimal time difference
with the UK means kids
can leave school on Friday
afternoon and be driving
through the African bush by
Saturday lunchtime. Lodges
here currently offer good
value for money — they are
costed in SA Rand whereas
camps elsewhere are usually
dollar-based. It is also the
only African country that
can offer a fully malaria-free
experience. Try Madikwe,
the Waterberg or Nambiti.
No other jabs are needed.
How old?
To enjoy game drives safely
and get the most out of
spotting animals in the wild,
kids need to be able to
follow simple instructions,
understanding the need to
sit down, stay quiet, keep
hands inside the vehicle,
etc. Drives are usually
two-to-three hours long, so
their attention span needs
to be up to that. Whilst
Safari
with
children
Keen for the next
generation to experience
more of the natural
world, but anxious about
the potential pitfalls of
a family trip to Africa?
Ellie Fennell outlines
tips for a successful
ELLIE FENNELL (2)
family safari.
106 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
many lodges will allow very
young children to stay, most
recommend school age and
above for a first game drive.
Game drives?
Lodges who cater for
families typically provide a
dedicated guide — it’s worth
enquiring to be sure. Very
early starts (i.e. 5am alarm)
and late finishes can lead to
sleepy small people, though
with your own guide you can
choose pick-up and drop-off
times that suit you and you
can loiter when something
really grabs their attention.
Family rangers are adept
at fielding kid’s questions,
such as dung-related
interrogations.
Food?
It’s not possible to pop out
for a quick burger if the
set menu isn’t kid-friendly,
so check in advance that
children are truly catered
for, especially if yours are
unlikely to indulge in slow-
cooked impala. Pack snacks.
Not all kids love biltong and
plantain on evening drives.
Activities?
Embrace being off-grid. In
theory, wi-fi is available in
most lodges, but internet
and phone signals are
erratic. Everyone, especially
teens, should be prepared
for tech-free living for a few
days. Look for a lodge where
daytime wildlife-watching
is possible (a large deck or
watering hole nearby, nature
walks etc). Some camps
have dedicated bushlore
activities aimed at educating
youngsters in a fun way, and
a swimming pool in camp is
usually welcomed. Spotter
books help to keep track and
sketch your sightings.
 I can’t imagine
travelling any
other way with
children. Their
enthusiasm at
sharing what
they discovered
was palpable.
BARBARA THREATT, US

BARBARA THREATT (3)

I K I D YO U N OT
Barbara Threatt, a subscriber
M y daughter Serena, my grandsons Finn (10) and Julien (7) and I joined
five other families on a three-week camping trip from Windhoek to
Victoria Falls. One of the great delights of this trip for the eight parents (and one
from the US, shares what she
grandparent; me) was watching our children connect with Africa — it was almost
learnt from a trip to southern
as exciting as seeing the wildlife.
Africa with her grandchildren
We travelled in what we called ‘the truck’, pitching and taking down the tents
ourselves, and mucking in with the day-to-day chores. We were all amazed at
how seriously the youngsters took their roles in making our camp work each day.
Kids who were resistant to housework back home were happy to wash dishes,
sweep out the truck and chop vegetables.
I can’t imagine travelling any other way with children. Their enthusiasm at
sharing what they discovered was palpable. We adults rediscovered insects —
the kids found orb web spiders fascinating, dung beetles endlessly amusing,
termites simply brilliant and jumping spiders amazing. They were riveted when
we came across lions who had just taken down a zebra and they talked about
how complicated it was to feel happy for the lions and sad for the zebra at the
same time. Their discussion about the lives of the San people after we visited a
village was thought-provoking. Some of the best questions to our guide came
from them… and we all roared when the only person to fall in during a mokoro-
poling lesson was an adult.
Advice I’d give? Remind kids that food choices will be limited; be meticulous
about hygiene (any ailment one person gets will travel through the group
quickly); be prepared for a child who’s usually confident to feel sheepish and
for the one who’s usually shy to blossom; make the kids feel part of creating the
adventure, rather than just being passive participants; remember they may focus
on different things to you; and bringing one favourite toy is worth the space — it
can make unfamiliar places a lot more comfortable.
I’ve been to Africa several times and can’t wait to go back again. But the trip on
which I learned the most, saw the most, listened most carefully and laughed most
often was with a group of people from many countries, half of whom were kids.

TA@100: WE’VE PRINTED 14,364 PAGES OVER 100 ISSUES | 107

Your safari journey

The Eastern T he rolling hills and lush

vegetation of Zimbabwe’s
Eastern Highlands district — pine
On the map
Nyanga National Park

Highlands
We asked Bulawayo-based
writers and guide, Paul
Hubbard and Violette Kee
Tui, to lead the way
“I would like to explore the
Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe,
but at present it is hard to
find a company who covers this
region. I usually plan a mix of
independent travel and a tour,
but am not sure how to do this.”
forests fed by perennial streams
and punctuated with fynbos
and waterfalls — have earned it
the nickname the ‘Switzerland
of Zimbabwe’, and it’s where we
holiday when we want to stay
local but feel like we’ve travelled
very far away!
With something for every type
of traveller, from the mountain-
climbing adrenaline junkie to the
sundowner-sipping couch potato,
the Eastern Highlands incorporates
three districts covering a distance
of about 300km: the Chimanimani
Mountains, the Bvumba Mountains
and the Nyanga Highlands,
featuring Zimbabwe’s highest point,
Mount Nyangani.
In addition to its incomparable scenic beauty,
Nyanga is the place to visit to escape the heat
of the lowlands and indulge in varied outdoor
activities. The ruined stone structures and
associated agricultural terracing found throughout
the area are perhaps the largest complex of
ancient stone building in Africa.
Nyanga is also home to Mount Nyangani
which, at 2,593 metres above sea level, is
Zimbabwe’s highest point, visible from a
distance of 100km. It’s now compulsory to hire
a guide and leave early in the morning to allow
yourself time to reach the summit and return.
The Nyanga mists are legendary, and come out
of nowhere to obscure your path.
Highlights: Fly fishing for trout; Nyahokwe and
Ziwa Ruins; World’s View; Mtarazi Falls and the
Skywalk; the tea estate at Aberfoyle Lodge.

Liz Mattock, Australia

Planning advice Penhalonga
Ideally you should allow a week to appreciate the many Once the centre of the
wonders of this exceptional scenic landscape. Start in early gold trade, the only
Harare and take a leisurely drive to Nyanga, the landscape reason to visit Penhalonga
rippling and rising from savannah shrub into hills and today is for La Rochelle
mountains. From Nyanga it’s a scenic two-hour drive south Country House. Built in
to Penhalonga and La Rochelle Country House. After 1953 by the glamorous
a relaxing night or two, we head to Mutare with its mix Sir and Lady Courtauld,
of colonial influences; it’s 300km to the coast, but you it is now managed by the
imagine you can smell the ocean on the breeze. National Trust. Today it
Mutare is the gateway to the magical, misty Bvumba, boasts an organic herb
Zimbabwe’s most spectacular mountain range and home farm, orchid hot house,
to several bird and plant endemics. From there it’s a botanical garden and
comfortable drive south to the delightfully quaint village agricultural training centre.
of Chimanimani, the gateway to the rugged mountains, The tea estate offers
where the jutted landscape is a delight to intrepid hikers tasting tours.
and climbers looking for a little extra challenge. Often, Food is a highlight,
after this, we head south to the Great Zimbabwe World whether it’s tea and
Heritage Site, where our country’s history was forged. scones taken on the
Having your own transport is a must throughout this wrap-around verandah, or
region. Public transport is unreliable and, to the remote a three-course fine dining
areas, non-existent. Guided tours are also scarce, so make experience for dinner. We
sure you’re armed with a reliable guidebook and don’t be like to ask the hotel to pack
afraid to ask questions wherever you go. People here, as us a picnic lunch which
throughout Zimbabwe, are friendly and eager to help. we eat under the shade of
Accommodation options abound, however, and fit mighty oak trees, the only
ABERFOYLE LODGE
every budget from camping to luxury. Our favourites sounds the tumbling water
include White Horse Inn (Bvumba), La Rochelle Country of a nearby stream and the
Above: A nature walk in the riperian forest
at Aberfoyle Lodge, a tea estate in the House (Penhalonga), Troutbeck Resort (Nyanga), the Frog bark of Samango monkeys
spectacular Honde Valley in Nyanga and Fern (Chimanimani) and Gordon’s BnB (Mutare). in the branches above.

108 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 GES
TT / GALLO IMA
Nyanga

CHRISTOPHER SCO
World’s View Left: The rolling hills of Nyanga are
Mount idyllic hiking terrain. Some people
Nyangani trek between historic ruin sites
To Harare Below: Bvumba Botanic Gardens
Juliasdale

Rusape
Honde Valley
Mtarazi Falls Skywalk

Mutare Bvumba
Bvumba
Botanical If you visit only one place
Reserve
in this wonderful part of
Leopard Rock our country, make it the
Bunga Forest
Bvumba — not just for the
incredible chocolate whisky
ZIMBABWE
MOZAMBIQUE cake and herbal tea sipped
from porcelain tea cups
overlooking the valley below
GEN / ALAMY
ARIADNE VAN ZANDBER
Tony’s Coffee Shop; or the
tranquillity of a lunchtime
Bridal Veil Falls
picnic on a bench by the pond at the botanical garden; or a wander through the
fairy glen pathways of the Bunga Forest under a canopy of acacias by day, and
Chimanimani
To Great stars by night — but because of all of it!
Zimbabwe Highlights: 14 bird specials (book a guide at Seldomseen); Picturesque 18-hole
Birchenough Bridge golf course at Leopard Rock; 200-hectare botanical garden and reserve, featuring
several rare and endemic plant species; Tony’s Coffee Shop for gourmet cakes and
teas — give yourself a couple of hours; the cakes and the view need to be savoured!

To Save Valley Conservancy

and Gonarezhou NP
Chimanimani Mountains
OCIATION

The attraction of Chimanimani lies largely

Mutare in its opportunities to camp in remote
ANI TOURISM ASS

locations with stunning backdrops; you

Zimbabwe’s third largest city was founded as can use designated sites within the
the gateway to the east. It is prettily situated in National Park boundaries or go wild
the mountains — perhaps the most picturesque camping throughout the area. Hiking
DIO / CHIMANIM

city in the country — and has some noteworthy along the reserve is a must, with a choice
architecture, making it a great place to linger, of several different trails, from gentler
refuel and refresh. ones for the novice hiker to rugged
and multi-day excursions for the more
BAD RABBIT STU
CHRISTOPHER SCOTT

adventurous. Take a swim in the natural

Mutare, cradled
streams and rivers along the way.
in the mountains Besides the exceptional views and
incredible biodiversity (76 species
of plant and animals are endemic
/ ALAMY

to Chimanimani, including the

Chimanimani stream frog and the Cave
squeaker frog), there are also several
ancient hunter-gatherer rock art sites
along the trails to visit and explore. Bridal Veil Falls,
Although most are not sign-posted, Chimanimani
National Park
local guides can be hired at the village.

ON YOUR FEET: THERE ARE NO ROADS IN CHIMANIMANI NATIONAL PARK | 109

PROMOTIONAL EDITORIAL
Your table awaits... down by the riverside
Palm River Hotel introduces a new fully-immersive dining experience on the banks of the Zambezi
I
lluminated by a twinkling canopy
of stars, the new Riverside Dining
Experience at the Palm River Hotel
in Victoria Falls offers authentic
African-style barbeque dining, within
an unparalleled setting on the edge of
the Zambezi River.
Soak in the magic of this iconic
river with this all-new activity and
enjoy a three-course dinner filled
with locally sourced barbeque-style
options, enhanced with a touch of
traditional Zimbabwean flavours.
Delicacies such as crocodile and
kudu steaks can also be enjoyed on
the menu, which are grilled al fresco
on open coal fires. Delicious fresh
and flavourful salads, side options
110 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
and a range of alcoholic and non-
alcoholic beverages further elevate
the sensory experience.
Light entertainment of gentle
rhythms played by local musicians
on hand-held drums and traditional
instruments (known locally as the
mbira), create a calming ambience,
enhanced by the background
chatter of birdlife and wildlife. The
experience is hosted alongside a
wildlife corridor, so lucky guests
might even have the opportunity
of unique wildlife sightings
such as elephant, buffalo and
hippopotamus.
The Riverside Dining Experience
takes place between 18h00
and 20h30 and is available to
all in-house guests of the Palm
River Hotel and Ilala Lodge Hotel,
throughout the year (weather
conditions permitting).
The experience can also
be booked as a group activity
for guests from other hotels. A
three-course barbeque dinner,
welcome drink, return transfers
within Victoria Falls town centre
(not applicable to groups) and local
entertainment are included.
Advanced reservations are essential.
For more information, visit www.
palmriverhotel.com, or email fnb@
palmriverhotel.com.
 All things considered
For over 25 years we have operated as a top Zimbabwe safari
planner for southern Africa. With strong local knowledge, we have
experience in organised customised safaris to all destinations in
Zimbabwe, as well as Botswana, Namibia and Zambia. Get in touch
and let’s have some fun plotting your next adventure!

www.luckybeantravel.com
caroline@luckybeantravel.com (Mobile) +263 772 327 072

.atusadona

"RANCH
OUT
FROM
6ICTORIA
&ALLS
WITH
THE
NEW
ÛIGHTS
TO
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Your safari journey

Dream
lodge
Every camp is special in
its own way, and each
visit will leave us with
treasured memories,
for they all offer us
privileged access to our
precious wilderness
areas. But if you could
piece together all the
very best bits of the
places you stayed, to
create the perfect safari
hideout, what would it
look like? Well, for a bit
of fun, we asked for
your suggestions.
Here’s the
result.

Game viewing Dining Connectivity Location

Nearly 90% of you wanted
a platform or hide to make
it easy to watch wildlife up-
close from the confines of
camp. Never ones to miss
an opportunity!
You have a taste for communal dining — it’s fun
to meet fellow travellers from around the world
after all, like a dinner party! But one third of you
also liked the option to be able to eat separately
and, embracing the advantage of the weather,
a majority were keen to have as much outside
dining as possible (bush dinner, by the fireside).
Note to lodge owners: mix it up!
Tight call this. 42% of you
didn’t want wi-fi in camp at all,
while the rest were in favour
of some, even limited, access,
though only 14% wanted good
signal. It seems that having
the option if it is needed
would be helpful.
Nearly half of you would like
your lodge to overlook water
of some sort, with 31% opting
for an elevated position on an
escarpment. Ultimately, you
want to be close to nature
and able to appreciate Africa’s
dramatic views.

What you want in your dream lodge

“A tree to sit under and journal or meditate” | “An open fire in the communal area” | “Telescopes on the deck”
“Comfortable outdoor lounge area, like a deck” | “Peace and quiet to hear the sounds of the bush” | “Boma nights, complete
with singing, are a real favourite” | “Apéritif and dinner around a fire, near a river” | “Excellent safari lodges have the very best,
inspirational, knowledgeable and experienced guides — worth more than all the other stuff put together” | “Proper wilderness is
essential: no fences, telephone poles, tarred roads. Private concessions are better” | “We love canvas tents, so you can hear the
noise of the animals at night” | “Small, intimate, something to gaze at in camp. Lovely staff ”

112 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 Bathroom
A semblance of plumbed
facilities was understandably
needed by most. Bucket showers
fed by donkey boilers are fine,
but no long-drop loos, thanks!
Barely anyone (4%) was keen to
have a bath option, while a large
majority wanted an outdoor
shower with a good view of the
bush around. Naked game-
watchers we are, then!

Bedroom
A tented room was the
overwhelming favourite, but
most of you (85%) opted to
have that sited on decking and
with a sheltering roof of some
sort (thatch, canvas or other)
to offer added comfort and
protection. For the most part
you are more glampers than
campers, enjoying the prospect
of a cuppa or sundowner on
your private verandah. Tea/
coffee-making facilities would
be good (flask of hot water).

Reading matters Sleep-out Size Splashing out

A library, with some
guidebooks and magazines
would be a popular addition.
Some site-appropriate
reading to dip into between
game drives...
About half of you dream Yup, it does matter. And While only 5% wanted a gym or
of crashing under the small is good. 82% of yoga space, and 13% were up for
vast African night sky. respondents preferred a spa treatments, nearly 50% were
This probably explains camp with up to only seven insistent on a pool — either a private
why more and more rooms. 17% were happy with plunge pool or centrally located.
lodges are including star- up to 20 rooms. We suspect you might like it if it also
bed options. attracted elephants, but that wasn’t
on the survey.

What you want in your dream lodge

ARTIST’S ILLUSTRATION BY KELLY JACKSON

“Proximity to game viewing and opportunity to view game and birds during downtimes are paramount” | “The ideal lodge is
about location, location, location. I don’t care about luxury, as nature provides it. I prefer bigger distance between tents rather
than a large room.” | “I would avoid anywhere with a swimming pool or spa — this is the bush!” | “I don’t go on safari for the
accommodation, I go for the wildlife. I can book great accommodation anywhere, but not great wildlife and guiding”
“My priority is the wildlife and calibre of guides. A higher linen threadcount is a perk, but not a necessity. Cold beer on the
other hand…!” | “I don’t need luxury, I just love to see as much wildlife as possible”

MOVING: SNAKES HAVE RECTANGULAR SCALES ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THEIR BODY, THE EDGES OF WHICH PROVIDE TRACTION LIKE TREAD ON A TYRE | 113
Your safari journey

Dream All-round favourite

Old Mondoro,
Lower Zambezi NP,

catchers
Zambia
(Chiawa Safaris)

Perhaps we could build our

ideal lodge from elements of
existing properties?
We asked you to nominate
your favourite component
parts from the places
you have stayed. We’ve
highlighted one of the more
popular from each list here,
and will share a wider
selection in forthcoming
Shamwari email newsletters.

Pool View
Amalinda Lodge, Matobo Angama Mara,
Hills NP, Zimbabwe Maasai Mara, Kenya
(Amalinda Collection)

Living area Sleep-out

Bilimungwe, South Elewana Loisaba
Luangwa NP, Zambia Star beds,
(Bushcamp Company) Laikipia, Kenya
(Elewana Collection)

114 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 Bathroom
Sarara
Namunyak Wildlife
Conservancy, Bedroom
Samburu, Kenya Elewana Elsa’s Kopje
Meru NP, Kenya
(Elewana Collection)

Spa
Victoria Falls Safari
Lodge, Victoria Falls,
Zimbabwe (Africa
Albida Tourism)

Bar
Dinaka, Central
Kalahari Game Reserve
(Ker & Downey Botswana)

Game-viewing
hide
Mwamba Camp,
Last Waterhole,
South Luangwa NP,
Zambia
(Shenton Safaris)

Museum/library
Jack’s Camp,
Kalahari,Botswana
(Natural Selection)

MORE? WE’LL HIGHLIGHT MORE OF YOUR FAVOURITE CAMPS IN OUR SHAMWARI NEWSLETTERS. SIGN UP AT TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM | 115
Your safari journey

plenty of options. ride, horse riding or bird

Picking pillows Larger camps function

similarly to hotels; their
dining rooms akin to
restaurants and their
walk. But, check what’s
included and what comes
with a surcharge.
If you like spending
In most (but not all) parks, there are accommodation
schedules fixed. Camps time in camp, then
options to cater for all types of travellers. Some
with fewer tents are more location and comfort are
are better marketed than others, so research is intimate; guests often dine key. Choose somewhere
necessary. But how do you figure out which is the together as if at a dinner with a good view —
right choice for you? Tamara Britten of Karibu party, and activities are perhaps raised on an
Kenya gives some pointers, and to illustrate the personalised. escarpment or overlooking
If you’re travelling a waterhole — and which
dilemma, we look at a selection of the offerings in
with children, look for a offers all the little luxuries
and around Amboseli National Park. camp with family tents, you desire.
a swimming pool and Note also the
kids’ activities. Some, difference between
for example, offer staying in a national park,
Maasai warrior training, a conservancy or outside
“Sometimes I discover an amazing What factors help you animal tracking, nature of the park’s limits. In
camp down the road from where I’m decide which camp walks, traditional culture national parks, game
staying that would have fitted or lodge is for you? and more. drives are only allowed
the bill better. What advice do First, and perhaps most If game-viewing is during daytime hours;
you have for finding the right obvious, is price. High- your primary purpose, conservancies or private
lodge?” end camps give you the check how long you’ll ranches keep the numbers
world: luxurious tents, spa be able to spend in the of camps and vehicles
Alison Dewar, UK treatments, haute cuisine, bush. Some camps offer low, and often offer night
“I’m always interested to read private guide, possibly a game drives at specified drives, game walks, visits
about ‘less-fancy’ places to butler and a personalised times, others let guests to local villages and more.
stay; after all, we go on safari schedule of activities. At plan their schedule, Remember, if you are
to see wildlife and could stay the other end of the scale, such as a full-day game staying inside the national
in an upmarket hotel without you have self-catering, drive with picnic lunch. park or a conservancy,
leaving home.” self-drive campsites. Look also at the extra there will be daily park
Between these extremes, activities on offer, such as fees to pay on top of your
Peter Atkinson, Australia however, there are usually a balloon flight, helicopter accommodation costs.

From left: Architect’s render of the forthcoming

Angama Amboseli; Elephant Gorge; and Elerai Lodge

116 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA


Case study:
Amboseli National Park
Inside the park
1 Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge.
Secluded in a grove of acacia trees,
near a series of emerald-green swamps,
which attract an array of wildlife, this family
friendly 92-room (each with a private
verandah) lodge affords uninterrupted
views of Kilimanjaro. $$
The classic Elewana Tortilis Camp, in
2 the southwest of the park and which
has access to Kitirua Conservancy,
focuses on the large number of
elephants that roam here, with the
guides having an intimate knowledge of
the herds. The camp comprises 18 twin/
double tents, plus a family tent and a
two-bed private house. $$$
3
Kenya Wildlife Service operates
self-catering options for self-drive
visitors: one campsite and three sites
with cottages or chalets. Facilities are
basic, but well-located and with great
views of Kilimanjaro $
Inside the conservancies
Elephant Gorge in the ALOCA
4 7
Conservancy has five chic cottages
with slick architecture, modern decor
and broad windows providing sweeping
views. A family-run camp, it offers
conservation, community involvement
and excellent game viewing. $$
KEY: $ Budget
Note: this is just a sample list of accommodation in the Amboseli area.
Angama Mara will open its sister camp
5 Angama Amboseli in November 2023.
This will be the most luxurious camp in
Amboseli, and the only one in the Kimana
Sanctuary. The 10 spacious tented suites
will be elegantly furnished with four-
poster beds and rocking chairs, while
facilities will include a swimming pool
and a drinking trough for elephants. $$$
Elerai Camp, southeast of the national
6 park, houses five cottage rooms and
12 tents raised on wooden platforms in a
private conservancy with plentiful game.
The eco-friendly camp forms part of the
African Wildlife Foundation’s Kilimanjaro
Heartland and hosts the annual
Kilimanjaro 7to3 mountain bike race. $$
Porini Amboseli is the only tourist
7 accommodation in Selenkay
Conservancy. This traditional tented
camp has 10 tents, friendly service
and exclusive game-viewing in this
important wildlife corridor. It generates
an income for the local community,
preserves the flora and fauna that live
in the conservancy and is scrupulously
eco-friendly. $$
8 Tawi Lodge, in a private conservancy
near Kimana Gate, has 13 cottages,
a large swimming pool and overlooks
a waterhole. The lodge is certified eco-
friendly, has a welcoming spa and guests
can see Kilimanjaro from the privacy of
their bathtubs. $$
From left:
Muteleu Maasai Village;
Porini Amboseli and
Tawi Lodge
$$ Mid-range $$$ High-end
On the fringes
Muteleu Maasai Village is run by a
9 Maasai family who are keen to share
their culture and traditions. Visitors stay in
a traditional house of cow-dung clay and
eat local foods. Activities include survival
training in the bush, learning the medicinal
uses of plants, and storytelling, singing
and dancing around the campfire. $
Wild Ndovu (five cottages) and
10 Uzima Cottages (10 rooms),
18km and 11km from the national park
respectively, both overlook Kilimanjaro,
waterholes and wildlife. $
Located just outside the Kimana
11 gate, Tulia Amboseli Safari Camp
comprises 20 raised tents overlooking
Kili and a waterhole. $$
The Kilima Safari Camp, comprising
12 50 classic safari tents, 10 superior
tents and 12 lodge rooms, also next
to the Kimana gate, offers great game
viewing from your tent. $
Amboseli NP
9
Chyulu Hills
10
2 12 5
1
3 8 11
46
TANZANIA
 KENYA: SAFARI, BEACH AND WELLNESS SPECIALISTS

Why choose Porini Camps

and Gamewatchers Safaris?
For over 30 years, we have been at the forefront
of ecotourism in East Africa, instrumental in the
establishment of conservancy-model conservation.
Join us on safari at our award-winning camps in KenyaÔs
Masai Mara, Amboseli, Meru, Nairobi National Park
and Laikipia.

The Karibu Kenya team has visited every site in the country. Let us
use our intimate knowledge of Kenya to create your ideal holiday.
We also offer a range of yoga and wellness retreats and festivals
at beach and bush destinations. Contact us today and let’s start
planning the holiday of your dreams...

For information, images, video and more, please visit

www.porini.com info@porini.com tamara@karibukenya.co.uk www.karibukenya.co.uk

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118 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

Safaris expertly designed to suit you

Tanzania ~ Kenya ~ Uganda ~ Rwanda õõõƣÖé¾Ý™‚£Ù¬‚ƣËÄ
Ǚ
¬Å£ËǐÖé¾Ý™‚£Ù¬‚ƣËÄ

www.intentonsafari.com info@intentonsafari.com

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P RO M OT I O N A L E D I TO R I A L

New safari area opens

From September, travellers will be able to experience the unchartered area of Mababe, on
the edges of the Okavango, when Wilderness Mokete opens. This limited camp (in lieu of a
permanent facility) will give guests a unique, advance look at this wildife-abundant landscape.
Kim Nixon, MD Wilderness Botswana, explains what goes into building such a camp…

Q What is the thinking behind a ‘limited-edition’ camp?

The development of the permanent camp that will replace Wilderness
Mokete is going to take some time and careful planning, but we wanted to give
our guests access to this spectacular area as soon as we possibly could, hence
the limited-edition camp opening in September this year. All the elements of
Mokete (tents, furnishings, etc) will be repurposed in the back-of-house area
of the permanent camp when it opens.
sole use) — situated to the east of the Okavango
Delta and to the south of Chobe National Park — is
unknown to travellers, even those who have been
to Botswana before.
Q What makes this area so special?
There are wide open grasslands here, with
visibility not found anywhere else. This is where

Q How will this differ to the permanent camp that is planned?

Wilderness Mokete will be a minimalist build, with the lightest possible
footprint, although obviously still offering all the luxurious touches that our
guests would expect. When we remove this camp, within a few months there
will be no trace that it was ever there. It will have nine en-suite canvas tents,
accommodating a maximum of 18 guests. The permanent camp, Wilderness
Meraka, will be larger with additional features (to be revealed at a later stage)
and will accommodate 24 guests in 10 rooms, including two family units.
the Okavango waters spill out into a flooded area
of 2,600 hectares — the only water source for
hundreds of miles, which attracts vast multitudes
of wildlife; mega herds of buffalo and elephant,
and zebra migrate through this area, followed
by predators such as lion, cheetah and wild dog.
Naturally, this density of wildlife and predator
activity produces a lot of action — guests will be
in the thick of things and have a really immersive

Q Why did you choose Mababe as its location?

Because of the uniqueness, sheer scale and wildlife abundance of the area,
and the fact that it has never before been utilised for photographic tourism.
experience that won’t be available to many people.
Predators are often active later into the morning
here, so game drives are expected to last longer.
This means that Wilderness, together with our partner Cobus Calitz, now has
the incredibly exciting opportunity to launch photographic safaris here, which
will contribute to the conservation of this pristine wilderness area and, at the
same time, benefit the local community through the payment of lease fees and
Q What was involved with setting up a camp in
an unchartered territory?

employment opportunities as well as other community upliftment initiatives. Finding the perfect location was key — a site that
Secondly, the location of our vast private area (over 50,000 hectares for our provides immediate access to where the wildlife

120 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

Above: Architect’s render of how Wilderness Mokete will look
Left: Vast herds of buffalo can be seen on the plains in Mababe

interaction is at its best, but also offers the best view over the marsh, with the
best possible shade. Spending many hours out there in the field at different
times of the day and year was crucial in deciding on the best location.
Q What was the inspiration behind the design?
The design of the camp has been purposefully
created to give guests the feeling of being
completely immersed in the surrounding

Q What are the logistics of building in this area?

With the camp only opening in September this year, building is still very
much in progress. Fortunately, access to the site is easy, without having any
landscape, with the tents and main area being
very open and close to the ground, allowing for
panoramic views of the open plains and wildlife
water crossings to contend with —that is normally a key factor in terms of around camp. The guest tents have cantilevered
logistics in building a camp in Botswana. Taking all the wildlife movement canvas roofs that slide away, giving guests the
into account and ensuring the safety of the staff on site is obviously very opportunity to sleep under the stars in the comfort
important, so one of the first things we did was erect an electric fence around of their beds. Shade and natural cooling are
the staff accommodation, which is standard operating procedure here. Building provided by the various layers of the roof material,
materials are trucked in from Maun, mostly on dirt roads, driving very carefully and the screens on the sides of the tents.
to minimise impact on the environment. All waste material is taken out on the
same trucks for recycling. Our environmental team is on site to ensure that the
development of a road network is done in the most sensitive way. Q What activities will be offered?
The emphasis at Mokete will be on the out-of-
camp experience, so time will be dictated by nature

Q How do you ensure minimal impact during build and operation?

There’s quite an extensive process to this, which forms part of our internal
Group Environmental Minimum Standards (GEMS) procedure. Once we’ve
and not the clock. We will happily take guests
out all day to follow the action and be part of it.
Activities on offer will include: day or night game
chosen a site for a camp, both an external and internal Environmental Impact drives; guided walks; a sunken hide which will
Assessment takes place, in addition to an Archaeological Impact Assessment to bring guests to eye-level with enormous herds of
ensure that no sites of historical or cultural significance are disturbed. As soon elephants; scenic helicopter flights and, from 2024,
as we have the go ahead, building can start. hot-air balloon flights which actually allow you to
This involves everything from creating a road into camp in an area with see the curvature of the earth; and also authentic
the least impact; carefully sited accommodation for crew, storage and waste; cultural experiences with the local community.
paths are laid down and builders are not allowed to walk off these; tents and
public areas are pegged and marked (plumbing and wiring follow these lines
only); refuse and waste are disposed of before the end of the project. Timber
is sourced from exotic plantations and FSC certified; canvas and thatch is
sourced locally where possible; we install solar systems — all new Wilderness
camps are powered by 100 per cent solar energy where viable; we use drip
trays and bunding in back-of-house areas to prevent contamination of the soil
by diesel; we use eco-friendly paints and chemical treatments with no/low
volatile organic compound levels.
Once the camp is up and running, it will be audited twice a year to ensure
compliance with GEMS. We use water-efficient taps, showerheads and toilets,
environmentally-friendly detergents and guest amenities, above-ground sewage Learn more about Wilderness’ mission,
treatment plants and reverse osmosis water purification systems for drinking operations and rebranding on their new website:
water. Recycling and waste management systems are also in place. www.wildernessdestinations.com

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 Your safari journey
My guide and joy
While your choice of camp certainly influences your safari
experience, more often than not it’s the guides’ who make a
safari particularly memorable. Here, you give a shout out to
those guides who have gone above and beyond.
The waiting game
ADAM STEPHEN MESHALLU
PROUD AFRICAN SAFARIS, TANZANIA
The plan for our 12-day
trip was to track big
cats as we followed the
wildebeest migration
through the Serengeti
Plains. Adam’s patience
rewarded us with exquisite
sightings: cheetah cubs sharing
in a kill; lion cubs falling over one
another in play; lions fighting over a
kill, to name a few. Adam worked with
Lemala Camps to pack three meals a
day for us, enabling us to safari for 12
hours at a time. On our final morning,
we loaded our bags into the jeep and
we kept vigil. Finally, in the last hour
before we had to catch our flight, the
wildebeest crossed. Exhilarating!
MARIA AND JOHN SUTHERLAND, USA
Mane man
SAM MUKAKULWA (INSET)
TIME+TIDE SAFARIS, ZAMBIA
In Lower Zambezi NP, having tracked
lions for hours, unsuccessfully, along
the dry riverbed and through forests,
we discovered a leopard on a kill.
After watching her for a while, we
continued and found the lions not
far away. It was so exciting to finally
locate the lions. Each year, Sam
teaches me more about the area.
He’s a great guide; I’m pleased
to call him my friend.
GAIL EDWARDSON
GAIL EDWARDSON, USA
122 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
Right place,
FINN JORGENSEN
right time
DENNIS EMPAPA
Silence of the Pans KAREN BLIXEN CAMP, KENYA
GREG SAN CAMP
MAKGADIKGADI PANS, BOTSWANA Empapa had an incredible ability
to spot animals, to anticipate their
Late on our first afternoon, Greg movements so he could get us in
drove us into the Pans and asked us the right place when elephants and
to walk 50 yards away, sit down and lions arrived, and to ensure that the
listen. As we did, the sun sank below light fell correctly on the subjects,
the horizon. When we returned, Greg so we got good pictures. His expert
laid a map on the ground and told knowledge flourished both in the
us the most fascinating story of how vehicle and on nature walks.
the place we were sitting in came FINN JØRGENSEN, DENMARK
to be, and explained the changes
it would undergo during the year.
This prepared us for the deeply quiet
expanse of the Pans. In retrospect, Star turn
the purpose of the exercise was to
ensure each of us was present in the At a farm guest house in
moment; that we would bring that to Keetmanskop, Namibia, after a
our entire experience. home-cooked meal, our host
KATE JOHNSON, MINNEAPOLIS, USA ushered us outside and a pilot
in the group explained the
galaxy. The night sky was a most
wonderful canvas and he painted
a mesmerising story. We were
spellbound. That ability came from
NATURAL SELECTION
a guide with both a heart and a
head — and the social skills to
make us feel totally at ease.
NEIL RIX, ZIMBABWE
Walking the talk
DAVE VAN GRAAN SELF DRIVE ADVENTURES, SOUTHERN AFRICA
We took a 55-day self-drive tour of Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe, and
our guide Dave van Graan was amazing. His knowledge of the region is remarkable.
He is patient, humorous, enthusiastic, engaging and organised. Not only is Dave an
excellent tour guide, he is an avid walker, having completed several long-distance
hikes through Namibia to support black rhino and desert lion conservation.
ANNE HOLDER, AUSTRALIA

DAN STEPHEN MASHI RIVER SAFARIS, ZAMBEZI REGION, NAMIBIA
Dan offers small group trips on the Kwando/Mashi river system, walking trails and
the chance to overnight on the river in a wilderness campsite. His passion for
conservation shines through; and his knowledge of the river and instinct to find
animals in the maze of channels means we have had some amazing sightings. We
have stayed here annually for the past nine years — Dan is the reason we return.
Delight
ABDALLAH
WAZIRI
ALBATROS
TRAVEL, TANZANIA
KAREN PEACOCK
Abdullah is the best guide I’ve ever
had. He knew the answer to every
question, navigated difficult roads
with ease and made us feel safe.
But what distinguished him was his
boyish enthusiasm. Every time we
came across something unusual —
baboons, a serval mid-afternoon,
a leopard in an area they don’t
frequent — his delight shone through
and added to our enjoyment.
KAREN PEACOCK, USA
Knowledge is power
ANDREW ‘MOLI’ MOLINARO KICHAKA LODGE, TANZANIA
On a walking safari in Ruaha with Moli, we had the time
to listen, understand and appreciate the fauna and flora
at ground level. Moli was remarkable: his knowledge was
outstanding and he was a storyteller who brought a whole
new dimension to the wildlife of East Africa.
IAN KNIGHTS, UK
The elephant whisperer
JEAN LOWER ZAMBEZI, ZAMBIA
On a game drive at Potato Bush
Camp, an elephant mock-charged
us. Then the magic happened: Jean
started talking to the elephant; it
calmed down, listened to Jean’s voice
and remained with us for half an hour.
DANIELA EILETZ-KAUBE, AUSTRIA
Leave them wanting more
LINDA CAMERON, UK
Out on his own
CAREL VERHOEF
GREAT MIGRATION CAMPS, TANZANIA
With a small mobile camp, Carel
Verhoef follows the herds throughout
the year, and he is based near the
Mara River in Kogatende from July
to October. I was incredibly lucky to
witness unrivalled wildebeest river
crossings here. Carel went the extra
mile to ensure an exceptional safari.
I respect and admire him for his
tremendous wildlife knowledge and
conservation beliefs — an essential
element for any safari.
TONY PROUD, UK
IAN KNIGHTS
On the right track
JAMES LEKADAA
ELEPHANT BEDROOM CAMP, KENYA
James followed some lion tracks which
lead us to a lioness. After a while we
spotted a lesser kudu and her calf. The
lioness crouched, then set off. Very
quickly, the dust went up and the lioness
brought her kill back to her young.
BEN NEALE, UK
TA@100: TRAVEL AFRICA HAS SUBSCRIBERS IN 123 COUNTRIES | 123
SPECIAL MENTION
WILBERFORCE OKEKA
GOVERNMENT GUIDE, KAKAMEGA
FOREST, KENYA
There is nothing Wilberforce doesn’t
know about the forest. He has even
lectured in Japan and Germany. He
lives in a wooden hut with his wife and
family, with no electricity or running
water. I hope when I visit him next year
that will have changed.
Graham Everett, UK
WISEMAN MANGANYI
PAFURI CAMP, KRUGER NATIONAL PARK,
SOUTH AFRICA.
Wiseman’s knowledge of birds, in
particular, is exceptional. He is such a
cool character.
Jane Brewer, UK
JACKSON AND GERALD
PORINI LION CAMP, OLARE MOTOROGI
CONSERVANCY, MAASAI MARA
They offered a friendly, engaging and
exhilarating experience — unforgettable!
Ann Hilton, UK
PIERRE BURTON
FREELANCE GUIDE, KENYA
From hundreds of metres away, Pierre
pointed to the horizon… and there was
a lion’s head, way in the distance, which
revealed itself to be part of a large pride.
Kit Kaberry, UK
GOVERNORS’ CAMP
MAASAI MARA, KENYA
The drivers knew where to go and
were very knowledgeable. They
especially made time to find the right
places and wait patiently while we
took photographs.
Susan Flegg, UK
ELSA’S KOPJE
MERU NATIONAL PARK, KENYA
All the guides at Elsa’s are excellent —
well trained and knowledgeable about
birds, as well as the other animals in
the park.
Laura Savill, UK
 Your safari journey

Could you be Q6:Reptiles

are known as
ectothermic.

a safari guide? Part 2

What does it
mean?
1. Cold-blooded Questions 3/4
2. Scaly
As you’ve recognised, guides bring the wilderness 3. Slimy
to life. They are a font of knowledge, gained from 4. Have no legs
Q12:What is the
years of studying and experience in the field. To
Q7:Snakes use smallest frog in
test your own bush-savvy, we asked guide-training their tongues to southern Africa
company EcoTraining to set you another quiz based smell. True or called?
on subjects raised in their wildlife short courses. false? 1. Micro frog
You’ll find the answers on page 159 1. True 2. Northern moss frog
2. False 3. Southern frog
4. Mini frog
Q8:A dung beetle
can move up to Q13:The ‘warts’ on
Q1:How many Q2:What are baby 50 times its own a warthog are made
species of bats called? weight. True or up of what?
bats are there 1. Cubs false? 1. Fatty deposits
worldwide? 2. Pups 1. True 2. An infection in the top
1. 300 3. Infant 2. False layer of the skin
2. 450 4. Doll 3. Bone and cartilage
3. 1200 Q9:On which 4. Hair
4. 2000 Q3:Which animal continent can
Question 13 class does a you not find dung Q14:What are rhino
tortoise belong to? beetles? beetles known for?
1. Mammals 1. Africa 1. Their unique body armour
2. Arthropods 2. Australia 2. Their strength
3. Reptiles 3. Europe 3. Their strange diet
4. Amphibians 4. Antarctica 4. Their smell

Q4:Why should one Q10:On average, Q15:Elephant shrews

not pick up a how much does a are native to
tortoise? lesser bushbaby Africa. True or
1. Because a tortoise often weigh? false?
urinates in fear, losing all 1. 200g 1. True
the water it saved during 2. 600g 2. False
Question 11
dry season to carry it over 3. 1.5kg
to the next rainy season. 4. 2kg
2. Because they will detach
from their shell. Q11:How does a
3. Because they bite female baboon More? Whether you
4. All the above indicate that she simply want to learn more
is coming into about wildlife and the
Q5:What is an oestrus? African bush, or fancy the
invertebrate? 1. Scent-marking trees idea of working as a guide,
1. An animal that lacks a 2. Vocal communication check out the range of
backbone 3. Bright red pads on courses that EcoTraining
2. A mammal her rump offer, both online and on
3. Two-legged animal 4. Gives the male a the ground in Africa:
4. All the above thumbs-up www.ecotraining.co.za
Question 15

124 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

SUBSCRIBE AT WWW.TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM 125
PROMOTIONAL EDITORIAL
peace offering
The ultimate adventure doesn’t always require you to do anything
P
eace. It’s such a simple word,
and often overused, such that
it starts to lose its power. Out
here in the distant hinterland
of Namibia, however, there is no
mistaking it.
Soon after arrival at Camp Sossus,
we are encouraged to stretch our
legs, and amble away from camp
into the stony emptiness. As the
setting sun basks the earth in orange,
I am struck by the sound of silence.
Once you hear that, you can’t unhear
it. I can feel my shoulders relax, a
tightness in my body drain into the
earth. Never has a gin and tonic been
enjoyed so much. I am content.
I had been attracted to Camp
Sossus by the quirkiness of its
construction: it is Namibia’s first
camp to be built from material
126 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
otherwise destined for landfill. How
would so many old oil drums be used
in a remote desert lodge?
It is ingenius, fun, with clever
attention to detail. The sort of
place that makes you want to ditch
your store-bought lampshade at
home and panel-beat one from
recycling. Here it had been done with
impressive craftmanship. This is, after
all, a premium lodge.
But it is what Camp Sossus
delivered that I had not expected.
There is a lot on offer here — nature
drives, walks, mountain-biking and
a drive to Sossusvlei (set off early!)
— yet I found myself not wanting
to do anything, rather just sit and
enjoy: read a book, binoculars to
hand incase wildlife wandered past;
lounge with a coffee, thoughts
drifting over nothing in particular;
absorb myself in the crackle of
the evening campfire; and — the
ultimate treat — drift off in the star
bed, with that endless, vast sky of a
billion stars above.
It’s places like this where you feel
your insignificance in the eternal
passage of time; where you realise
that the mechanics of life you stress
about are really not that important;
and where you can feel truly,
magically, at one with nature. Camp
Sossus emptied me of stress. Next
time I will know what to expect: that
feeling of deep peace.
For more on Camp Sossus and other
Ultimate Namibia camps, visit www.
ultimatesafaris.na. Book through
your tour operator.
For safaris that stand out,
no matter how you like to travel, or where
you like to go, we’ll make it happen...
• Self-drive safaris • Namibia
• Private-guided trips • Botswana
• Group tours • South Africa
• Fly-in safaris • Zambia
• Family holidays • Zimbabwe
• Honeymoons • Kenya
• Hiking safaris • Tanzania
• Uganda
Choose from one of our pre-designed
itineraries or let our 35-years of experience
guide a customised itinerary just for you.

www.chameleonholidays.com
info@chameleonholidays.com

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The ultimate GAP YEAR in AFRICA!
EcoTraining
Where Your Passion for Nature
gets Turned Into a Career
World-class nature guide training

Join us!
ON OUR 1-YEAR PROFESSIONAL
FIELD GUIDE COURSE
Course dates: 2 August 2023 - 2 July 2024

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UNFENCED WILDERNESS CAMPS | TWICE DAILY ACTIVITIES | EXPERIENTIAL

TRAINING | BIG GAME AREAS
 Conservation

Your passion for protecting Africa’s wildlife and wilderness, and for supporting
communities across the continent, comes through in nearly every communication we have.
You care, and you want to help. In these pages we address some of your concerns and
look at examples of organisations making a positive difference.
CASEY PRATT / LOVE AFRICA MARKETING / WILDLIFE ACT

Keeping track.
A radio collar is fitted to a wild dog at Somkhanda Game Reserve in South Africa. This is one of the projects
supported by Wildlife ACT, which won ‘Best for Nature’ at the WTM Africa Responsible Travel Awards recently,
highlighting the importance of its conservation voluntourism programmes.

FAST FACT: WHEN HUNTING, WILD DOGS CAN REACH SPEEDS OF 66KPH, WITH AN AVERAGE CHASE COVERING 2KM | 129
 Conservation

conservation landscape
It is clear you care deeply about protecting Africa’s natural heritage. Several Making space Pian Upe Game
Reserve in northeast Uganda is
readers have shown an interest in knowing more about the organisations that sit the second largest protected
area in the country, but one of
behind much of the large-scale conservation initiatives across the continent. We’ll the least visited. It is now co-
delve deeper in future issues, but let’s start with some of the bigger Africa-based managed by Space for Giants
and Uganda Wildlife Authority.
players. Compiled by Sue Watt

W
ith vast expanses of habitat ranging from sweeping savannahs also co-manages Ouadi Space
and verdant rainforests to lush wetlands and arid deserts, all Rimé-Ouadi Achim for Giants
home to exceptional fauna and flora, Africa is one of the most Wildlife Reserve, the SPACEFORGIANTS.ORG
biodiverse continents on Earth. But with its human population predicted only place in the world Space for Giants aims
to double to 2.5 billion by 2050, the need to conserve these wild places is that is home to three to “protect the natural
now more vital than ever. Huge global NGOs are active throughout Africa, critically endangered ecosystems on which
among them WWF, Wildlife Conservation Society, International Fund for antelopes: the dama Africa’s large wild
Animal Welfare and The Nature Conservancy. Equally as important to gazelle, scimitar-horned animals depend and
the conservation landscape are far smaller non-profits and organisations oryx, and addax. ensure they are valued
dedicated to simply protecting individual reserves, including Zambia’s by people so that they
Conservation Lower Zambezi, Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Kenya, The The African endure, forever.” From
Gorongosa Project in Mozambique and The Malilangwe Trust in Zimbabwe. Wildlife its Kenyan HQ, it works
In between the big names and the smaller charities lie numerous Foundation in 11 countries and
organisations working solely on African soil, sharing their regional expertise AWF.ORG its influential Giants
in diverse projects across the continent. The Africa-specific NGOs below Established over Club counts present
are among those leading the effort to embrace habitat protection with 60 years ago, AWF and former African
wildlife conservation and community upliftment at their core. focuses on developing presidents as members,
conservation leadership along with African
African Parks Sahara among African people. and international
AFRICANPARKS.ORG Conservation Its vision is “of an Africa business leaders and
Currently manages 22 parks or reserves SAHARACONSERVATION. where sustainable philanthropists. In
spanning a staggering 20 million hectares ORG development includes July, with the Uganda
across 12 countries. Based in South Africa, its Perceived as devoid thriving wildlife and Wildlife Authority, it
objective is to manage 30 parks by 2030. In of wildlife, deserts can wild lands as a cultural signed the country’s
a unique business approach to conservation, be the poor relation in and economic asset first Co-Management
African Parks works in public-private landscape protection. for Africa’s future Partnership for the
partnerships with national governments, taking Sahara Conservation generations.” AWF running and restoration
on full responsibility for the rehabilitation of aims to change currently operates of Pian Upe Game
depleted reserves for 20 years or more. Their this, concentrating in 14 countries, with Reserve.
formula has proved resoundingly successful in on the Sahara and projects ranging from
destinations as diverse as Liwonde in Malawi, neighbouring Sahelian expanding Rwanda’s Tusk
Bazaruto Archipelago in Mozambique and grasslands that Volcanoes National Park TUSK.ORG
Zakouma in Chad. together span 10 to secure more habitat Tusk is a British-based
million sq km. Set up in for mountain gorillas; charity that provides
2004, the charity works to improving Ethiopia’s donor funding to
mainly in Chad and Simien Mountains grassroots conservation
Horny issue
The Ouadi Rimé- Niger, but also supports National Park, home projects throughout
Ouadi Achim projects in Senegal, to the world’s rarest Africa. Founded over
Game Reserve in
Chad — the only
Morocco and Tunisia, canid, the Ethiopian 30 years ago, it has
place you can see sharing its expertise wolf; and to creating helped protect some 70
scimitar-horned on rare desert wildlife new community million hectares of land
oryx — a flagship
project of Sahara conservation. With the conservancies in and currently works
Conservation Chadian government, it Uganda. in 23 countries, from

ION
JOHN NEWBY / SAHARA CONSERVAT

130 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 Helping geladas
In Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains, AWF works with communities to develop alternative livelihoods to
livestock grazing and subsistence farming. It funded Limalimo Ecolodge to provide community-owned
and operated tourism revenue, and assists communities in land-use planning, which helps them use
lands more sustainably, avoiding encroachment on gelada’s territory.

PERRIN BANKS / AWF

MARCUS WESTBERG / AFRICAN PARKS

Angola to Zimbabwe hence LRF helps to
and beyond. Among restore neglected
its many projects, it parks. In Tanzania’s
supports Blue Ventures Selous Game Reserve
in Madagascar to and Nyerere National
protect coastlines Park, a vital stronghold
by setting up Locally for lions, LRF supports
Managed Marine projects working on
Areas that benefit the management of the
both communities and area and on human/lion
marine conservation. conflict.
The prestigious annual
Tusk Conservation Peace Parks
Awards, presented by Foundation
patron Prince William, PEACEPARKS.ORG
celebrates the work Peace Parks does
of Africa’s leading landscape conservation
conservationists. at scale, engaging
political leaders to
Lion Recovery unite in protecting for humankind and the Big boost
Fund huge ecosystems by natural world.” To date
LIONRECOVERYFUND.ORG forming conservation it has developed 10 In August 2022 African Parks and the
LRF aims to double areas that cross national TFCAs across southern Government of the Republic of South
the number of lions in boundaries. With Nelson Africa, among them
Sudan signed a 10-year renewable
the wild from 25,000, Mandela as co-founder, Kavango-Zambezi,
by 2050. Since 2017, Peace Parks’ ‘dream’ is which spans 520 000 management agreement for Boma
it has funded some to create Transfrontier sq km and melds 36 and Badingilo National Parks, which
225 projects in 23 Conservation Areas protected areas across includes significant floodplains and
countries, benefitting (TFCAs) “protecting and five countries (Angola, migration corridors to an estimated
45 per cent of Africa’s regenerating natural and Botswana, Namibia,
one million antelope.
lion range. Habitat cultural heritage vital to Zambia and Zimbabwe),
loss is a key threat enabling and sustaining forming the largest TFCA Flat out: Boma and Badingilo National Parks feature
to the cat’s survival, a harmonious future in the world. floodplains that attract a wealth of wildlife

BUCKET LIST: BADINGILO AND BOMA NATIONAL PARKS IN SOUTH SUDAN ARE HOME TO THE WORLD’S SECOND LARGEST MIGRATION OF LAND MAMMALS | 131
Conservation
VOLUNTEERING
“There are a number of conservation charities across
Africa that find it useful to open their doors to allow
visitors to ‘help out’ and get ‘hands on’ in order to
raise awareness and boost fundraising. As a tourist there
is a natural desire to want to help in some way, but it is
often hard to know which are genuine and which are not.
Some guidance on which are genuine would be useful.”
Ann Hilton, UK
S
adly, for every great bona fide
conservation programme and organisation
doing sterling work to help save
endangered and threatened wildlife, there are
hundreds more unscrupulous, unethical and
downright shady places operating under the
banner of “conservation”. This makes the task
of choosing where to visit and which project to
become involved with an absolute minefield,
unless you know the right questions to ask.
When looking at your choices, the three key
things to consider are:
Is the project or programme affiliated
1 with a recognised, credible conservation
organisation with demonstrable credentials?
Does the place you want to visit or work with
2 breed the animals in its care and/or sell them?
Is there any component of what is offered
3 that puts you in a position where you are
either touching, feeding, in close proximity to (ie:
walking with or alongside) or interacting with a
captive wild animal?
If the answer is either ‘no’ to the first
question or ‘yes’ to the second two, then the
recommendation is to avoid these places
completely, as the likelihood is that you may be
doing more harm than good when supporting
them. That said, what’s being offered by many of
these so-called sanctuaries, rehabilitation centres
and conservation outfits is often more nuanced,
making it harder to distinguish good from bad.
Marketing spiel will convince you that your
patronage is saving the lives of countless
creatures; helping to heal them and release them
back into the wild; giving them a second chance;
that they’re orphans with no hope of making it
in their natural environment so have to be kept
in captivity for their own good; and that without
132 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
you all hope is lost. It’s often compelling and is Wildlife ACT
Volunteers help to
deliberately designed to be.
monitor radio-
Most of the organisations doing some of the collared wildlife on
best work in the African conservation field are research projects in
South Africa.
those who do it quietly and without too much
fanfare. They rely on financial support, but largely
don’t sell tours of their facilities, twice daily, putting
on a show for selfie purposes.
Which brings us to volunteering. This offers you
the chance to donate your time and effort in the
name of a good cause, getting stuck into the job
of helping to protect fragile ecosystems and wild
fauna. You won’t be paid, though you will pay for the
opportunity. But choosing a volunteer programme
that puts you and your time to good use and
supports actual conservation is fraught with pitfalls.
When considering the options, the best
questions to ask are those which focus on what
is going to be expected of you and what your
volunteer duties would be. If you’re going to be
expected to muck out animal cages in between
morning and afternoon tourism tours with a clutch
of directionless teens on a gap year experience,
then it’s probably best to give it a miss.
Volunteering programmes should also
be affiliated to or recognised by a bona fide
conservation organisation. You should not be
expected to handle or interact with animals other
than for genuine research and scientific purposes,
such as assisting with tagging, dehorning, darting
and monitoring. There should be well-structured
supervision and a stated outline of what your role
will be, with clear outcomes associated with the
work you’ll be doing.
 Some recommendations

CHANTELLE MELZER / WILDLIFE ACT

Wildlife ACT
If you want to get involved as a volunteer, you can’t go wrong with
Wildlife ACT, with projects in South Africa and Seychelles. One of the
most outstanding programmes for travellers looking to make a real
difference to people and planet, Wildlife ACT is about as bona fide as it
gets in the volunteering and conservation education field, with projects
that are Fair Trade Tourism certified and supported by the WWF.

Marine Dynamics
Based in Gansbaai, South Africa, Marine Dynamics’ International
Marine Volunteers programme offers an exemplary way for people to
directly contribute to great white shark, African penguin and general
marine research, while at the same time getting involved in the
communities around this small fishing village. It is Fair Trade Tourism
certified and affiliated to the Dyer Island Conservation Trust.

If the volunteering is at a rehabilitation centre,

you would not be expected to treat injured or sick
Ol Pejeta Conservancy
animals unless you are under the strict supervision A stand-out project in Kenya’s Laikipia region, working in every aspect
of a qualified veterinarian or veterinary nurse. It’s of conservation, from scientific research and species monitoring to
always a good idea to ask what the rehabilitation community outreach and wildlife protection. A range of experiences
process involves, and what the anticipated release are offered to safari travellers, with revenue raised being ploughed
plan is for the animals in the centre’s care. Are they back directly to dedicated projects and communities.
being released back into the wild? If so, where? If
not, why not? Ol Pejeta Conservancy. One of Africa’s most successful rhino conservation projects
While it’s important to recognise that not every
injured, orphaned, abandoned or ill creature can be
successfully re-released, it is helpful to understand
what the assessment process is for judging which
animals are suitable for a return to life in the wild,
and what happens to those who are retained in
captivity. Are they becoming “ambassador” animals?

OL PEJETA BUSH CAMP / ASILIA AFRICA

Or going into a breeding programme? (A red flag.)
The bottom line in all of this is getting yourself as
informed as possible and asking as many questions
as you can, while verifying the answers you get.
Genuine conservation programmes will appreciate
your thoroughness. If your questions are not
welcomed or suitably answered, then, rather like a
jury, there’s grounds for reasonable doubt!

G U I D E L I N E S FO R P R O G R A M M E S I N S O U T H A F R I C A
When it comes to South Africa, the Southern African Tourism Services Association has put considerable effort into compiling
responsible, ethical guidelines around captive wildlife and its possible exploitation. WildChoices, an NGO formed as part of that
process, has assessed facilities across the country by applying the SATSA guidelines, creating an excellent toolkit for anyone
wishing to visit, participate or engage with prospective conservation organisations, sanctuaries and rehabilitation facilities.
You can find it at www.wildchoices.org.

TA@100: THE ONLY TWO COUNTRIES NOT YET COVERED IN TRAVEL AFRICA ARE BURUNDI AND SOMALIA | 133
Conservation

Using school or beliefs, hopes, dreams.

Right: Nourish Eco
Village encourages creche visits as an Take the sterling
entrepreneurs to example, there is a fine work being done in and
engage tourists
Below: Eco Children
line between doing around South Africa’s
works to promote them to make yourself Greater Kruger National
education in feel good and actually Park. Nourish Eco
communities around

O VILLAGE
Klaserie Private doing good. So, it’s Village, for example,
Nature Reserve sensible to ask some connects communities
questions first: to conservation through

NOURISH EC
Will you be shown a range of immersive
1 around the school tourism experiences

Giving Whether you see

it or not, your safari
without disrupting
normal class routines?

2
Will the children
that empower and
encourage local
entrepreneurship.

gracefully
makes a positive be putting on a Hlokomela was
impact on the lives “performance” for created to meet the
of people in some you, or will you just need for health care
of the most far-flung be popping your head for local farm workers
While readers recognise the wider rural areas on the around the classroom and communities in
positive impact of their trip, several continent, providing door? and around the safari
have voiced a concern about how jobs, empowering Is the school town of Hoedspruit,
to contribute locally in a sensitive, communities and 3 or creche and to drive income
building micro- supported by a development projects.
respectful way. We asked Sharon
economies. It’s how structured charitable It relies on funding
Gilbert-Rivett for some advice. we measure that organisation? and donations from
difference that has If you are paying tourism, and in return
changed, along with 4 to visit, how is the provides an invaluable
our awareness of money dispersed? community service.

E very safari should have a positive,

sustainable impact on everyone involved.
This was brought into sharp perspective by the
the need to travel
more sustainably and
ethically.
Could you just
as easily donate,
either financially
Eco Children,
the education-based
non-profit created by
Covid-19 pandemic and the incalculable effect With what seems or practically the Klaserie Private
the global travel bans had on the people who like every lodge, camp with educational Nature Reserve,
live in and around the wilderness areas we love and safari operator equipment? works in communities
so much. So, it’s always good to understand supporting a local The same questions around the reserve to
how you can give back, both while on safari school, contributing apply to community improve education
and once you’re home, and what opportunities to NGOs, community visits. Africans are infrastructure, child
there are to do so in a measured, ethical, projects and enormously welcoming literacy and teacher
sensitive and sustainable way. establishing charitable and hospitable, but training.
trusts and foundations, there needs to be rather When it boils down
ECO CHILDREN
it’s easy to get excited more than just a drive- to it, the key ingredient
at the prospect of through in true poverty to all forms of giving
seeing your hard- porn fashion, stopping back while on safari is
earned safari bucks off at the lady milling respect. And integrity.
being put to good mealies, the sangoma Do it with both and
use... However, the or the local shebeen. you will have a most
notion of giving back The best community rewarding experience.
directly has numerous visits seem to evolve Oh — and keep the
challenges, the most naturally, where you connections you
pressing of which are escorted slowly by make when you return
is how we do it in a a local guide, spending home, becoming an
way that’s respectful, quality time learning ambassador for Africa,
non-voyeuristic and about a different way of her people and her
non-exploitative. life, culture, traditions, wild places.

134 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 RELAX, TAKE IT EASY,
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This could be the most impactful stop on your Tanzania safari.

Stay at the SEGA GirlÓs School campus near Morogoro, visit the
school, enjoy Tanzanian meals, immerse yourself in the project,
explore the area... Proceeds from the SEGA Visitor House
support scholarships for students to attend SEGA.

www.nurturingmindsinafrica.org
info@nurturingmindsinafrica.org

136 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

PIT-TRACK K9 CONSERVATION AND ANTI-POACHNIG UNIT

Conservation

How can I help?

Pit-track: The Pangolin team;
anti-poaching canine unit
operating in Timbavati Private
Nature Reserve, Greater
Kruger, South Africa

We know many of you continue to support conservation JAN E ALEX AN DER

projects and communities you’ve visited once you are PIT-TRACK K9 CONSERVATION AND ANTI-
POACHING UNIT WWW.PITTRACK.ORG
back home, be it through personal donation, fundraising
or involvement with more hands-on activities. Whatever I was on safari at the Lion Treetop
your contribution (big or small), we are continually Lodge run by (the now late) West
inspired by your efforts. Here’s some examples of how Mathewson. West and I were
readers have become more involved… discussing wildlife conservation
when he told me about Pit-Track.
A few days later, I saw an anti-
Kit Kaberry fundraising shortfall. Being poaching canine unit at Timbavati
RHINO ARK WWW.RHINOARK.ORG the only non-working trustee, Private Nature Reserve but didn’t
An avid green-laner, I entered the I resolved to spend more time know their name. When I got back
UK Rhino Charge when I heard spreading the word about Rhino
to Australia, I looked up Pit-Track and
the winner gets an invite to enter Ark’s 35 years of conservation and
the ‘real’ Rhino Charge in Kenya. environmental work. Liaising with
discovered they were the same unit
With my team, we raised plenty colleagues in Kenya and USA, I I had seen. I joined as a member and
of funds for Rhino Ark and scored helped make grant applications began communicating with them.
well in the fun rounds, ending to foundations and trusts; funds About six months later, I volunteered
up as winners in 2009. Alas, our to help build fences around the my services in blog writing and
vehicle, Shorti, didn’t last long water towers of East Africa — the
it took off from there. I have now
that first time in Kenya. We were Aberdares, Mount Kenya and
more successful the following Kakamega — to improve the been with Pit-Track for over three
year, when we nearly reached water supply; to reduce human- years. I write newsletters and blogs,
the final guard-post. But my love animal conflict, snaring and killing prepare social media content, work
of raising funds for Rhino Ark’s of wildlife; to fight illegal logging; on fundraising ideas and initiatives,
conservation work was sealed. and to enable children to walk to
and help with correspondence and
As a result, Rhino Ark UK school more safely. I enjoy this
asked me to become a trustee. In work and look forward to visiting
anything else that’s needed. For me,
2020, thanks to Covid, we found Kenya once again this year to see this is the perfect way to help save
ourselves with a considerable the impact of these projects. the animals I love.

Ron Van der A

PAINTED DOG CONSERVATION WWW.PAINTEDDOG.ORG / WWW.PAINTEDDOGCONSERVATION.NL

In the mid-‘90s, my wife and I were on safari in Kenya, finally watching a rhino in the wild. It was a
moment of amazement, not only because of this animal standing in front of us, but also because of all the
other vehicles in the background. Wild nature was what we came for, but it felt the reality was different.
After experiencing these mixed feelings, I wanted to do something in return for nature. After volunteering
in Eswatini and Kenya, I got to know about the Painted Dog Conservation (PDC) project and met its executive
director Peter Blinston at an eco-volunteer event in The Netherlands in 1998. The project and the
cooperation with the local people in Zimbabwe really appealed to me. I felt overwhelmed by something that
seemed to trigger the essence of my existence. The collaboration between all those involved led to a more
professional approach and, as a result, we established the Dutch PDC foundation in 2004. The project is like
a brilliant-cut diamond: all facets working together mean the painted dogs and communities can shine.

FACT: A DUNG BEETLE CAN PULL A WHOPPING 1,141 TIMES ITS OWN BODYWEIGHT – THE SAME AS A HUMAN DRAGGING SIX DOUBLE-DECKER BUSES | 137
Conservation

OVERTOURISM
“I’m concerned about the lack of reference to
issues which might not be palatable, but which
will undoubtedly have a major adverse influence
on both beautiful places and on the quality of
experience for travellers there. You do want to
encourage people to visit Africa, but obviously
in the knowledge that while raising valuable
revenue, we tourists inherently pile further
pressure on delicate ecosystems: the obvious
example being the Maasai Mara.”
Paul Redgate, UK

When is too much of a

good thing, well, too much?
We asked Anthony Ham to reflect on the challenges
facing Africa’s more popular tourist attractions

O
n a visit to Kenya’s Amboseli National Park in the not-too-distant
past, I saw a cheetah away in the middle distance. I took off,
caught up in the thrill of the chase, in that exciting moment
when you know that a big cat encounter is imminent. I pulled
over and sat back, ready to watch from a respectful distance. Within
minutes, a convoy of cars and minivans were lined up either side of me. I
counted them: we were 36 cars. I left. This was not why I was there.
I was reminded of this experience near the end of 2022, when video
footage emerged of vehicles surrounding two cheetahs on a kill in Kenya’s
Maasai Mara National Reserve. It was a familiar scene of vehicles jostling
for the best position, crowding the animals to the point where they were
no longer visible to anyone beyond the inner circle of cars. To those of us
who travel regularly to Africa, it was far less surprising that such a thing had
happened than that anyone thought this was unusual.
After a couple of years when nature was able to take a breath, the human
species was back with a vengeance.

138 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA


Although far from universal,
over-tourism has long been
a concern for those who
care about wildlife and the
natural world. How long will
it be before footage emerges
of a vehicle running over
a lion cub? Or an accident
causes a tourist to fall from
their vehicle? Or wildlife flees
the parks and into human-
dominated areas but where
there are fewer vehicles?
Our presence in large
numbers long ago began to
change the natural behaviour
of animals.
Lions and other predators
have already learned to use
safari vehicles as cover to
TRIVIA: SPOTTED HYENA CUBS DISPLAY TERRITORIAL AND EVEN SEXUAL BEHAVIOUR BEFORE THEY ARE EVEN A MONTH OLD | 139
LIZ MATTOCK
mask their approach while
hunting prey. In 2021, reports
emerged from the Serengeti
of the Great Migration passing
through the Seronera region
for the first time in decades,
hesitantly at first, then
swarming along old and nearly
forgotten routes, enticed by
the near absence of humans.
The approval of new lodges
— from new developments
in the Maasai Mara to
the proliferation of new
accommodation at Victoria
Falls — suggests that we’ve
learned little when it comes to
changing our behaviour.
It doesn’t have to be like
this. In Maasai conservancies
that surround the Maasai
Mara National Reserve, such
as Naboisho and Mara North,
high-end accommodation
keeps visitor numbers down,
and rules restrict the number
of vehicles that can be present
at any sighting to just four. The
high-cost, low-density model
is one that works everywhere
from Kenya’s Laikipia Plateau
to Botswana.
It would be profoundly
unfair, however, on those
without the means to
stay in luxury lodges and
tented camps to follow this
philosophy to its logical
endpoint: that only rich people
can go on safari, and that
those with lots of money are
the only ones who can be
trusted to behave properly.
Botswana’s model is a
little more egalitarian and
works in part because the
country allows self-drive
travellers to stay in low-cost
campsites in some of its best
wildlife areas.
In the Maasai Mara,
Serengeti and other high-
volume safari destinations,
any change in direction
could, should, begin with
a moratorium on new
developments. Stricter
enforcement of existing
rules about driving off-road
could also help. It could also
be time for government and
park authorities to discuss
the imposition of daily
visitor quotas, a model used
on hiking routes through
environmentally-sensitive
areas around the world.
But decisions such
as these would require a
willingness to make sacrifices:
by governments and by safari
operators clamouring for
tourist revenues after the
lost years of the pandemic,
by underpaid guides and
drivers under pressure
from their clients to enjoy
the best possible safari
memories.
And, of course,
responsibility should rest
with travellers as well.
For all the bad publicity,
over-tourism afflicts few
safari destinations, and
the choices we all make
can help to ameliorate our
impact: Africa has so many
riches to broaden out the
possibilities of sustainable
safari experiences.
If we can afford to
pay more for an exclusive
experience, it makes sense
to do so. If we can’t, perhaps
we can choose to visit
Kenya’s Meru National Park
or Zambia’s Kafue National
Park instead of the Mara. Or
decide to visit more remote,
less crowded, areas of the
vast Greater Kruger.
Visiting out of season
can also work. Not only is
the rainy season cheaper,
it can be wonderfully
quiet, atmospheric and
filled with special wildlife
encounters; I recently had
the Serengeti’s Gol Kopjes
to myself on a moody April
morning, and sat alongside
a family of 15 lions in Mara
North for hours with not
another vehicle in sight.
You notice things at such
moments: you can hear
the birds, observe some
never-before-noticed quirk
of lion behaviour, or simply
enjoy wild Africa in silence.
If you’re lucky, the animals
might even forget that
you’re there.
 Small, local operator
specialising in personalised
safaris in southern AfricaÔs
most extraordinary places
BOTSWANA ¤ ZIMBABWE ¤SOUTH AFRICA

www.botswanabespokesafaris.com safaris@botswanabespokesafaris.com

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140 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 AFRICA AT HOME

You don’t have to leave Africa in Africa.

There are ways you can keep the memories of your adventures fresh, and the
character of the continent in your own home, drawing inspiration from the places
you have stayed, the people you have met or the wildlife you’ve seen. They say
Africa never leaves you; so let it be part of your everyday life. Here’s some ideas…
ROBERT IRWIN

TA@100: OVER 1000 LODGES, CAMPS AND OTHER ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS HAVE BEEN MENTIONED | 141
 Africa at home

KEEPING connected
Whether it’s your first time or your fiftieth, no one
wants a safari to end. But all too soon, we have to leave
behind the spine-tingling wildlife and landscapes of
the bush and head back home. Daily routines return,
but that doesn’t mean you have to leave Africa behind.
Here are some tips to help you keep the excitement of
Africa — and those special memories — alive long after Be social
the dust has been washed away Share experiences and opinions on the
parks, camps and lodges you visited
by writing reviews on TripAdvisor or
specialist portals like Safaribookings.com.
Write Insta stories, Twitter threads
Reflections and Facebook posts; start a blog; make
and connections TikTok videos (but only when you’re home
— don’t miss those memorable moments
If you kept a journal, revisit it often and when you’re there!)
even enhance it once you’re home with an Keep in touch with new friends you
epilogue written with the gift of hindsight. made on holiday: set up a WhatsApp
Every day, jot down a memory of group, share photos, plan to meet again at
something special from your trip — home or on your next safari.
perhaps a lioness nurturing cubs, Email all the camps and lodges you
sundowners in the company of elephants, stayed at, and if you said you’d share
the maze of stars at night… photos with people you met, remember
Take time to reflect: what did you to keep your promise. Developing these
absolutely love; what fascinated you or relationships nurture your connection to
bored you; what would you do differently? the places you visited.
While it’s fresh in the mind, write notes as
reminders for future trips.
Give feedback to your tour operator —
about their service and advice, the parks
you visited, the places you stayed and the
people who worked there. Africa always
leaves you wanting more, and this is the
Through the eyes of a child…
ideal way to build a connection with those If you travelled as a family, find children’s wildlife
who might plan your next safari. programmes and games for your little ones, and make up
Write a story about your trip — or a
particularly interesting experience from it bedtime stories about the animals they saw in Africa.
— and submit it to your local newspaper or Ask their teachers if they can do special projects on the
simply share it with your friends and family.
wildlife they saw and the people they met. Connect your
For writing tips, see Will Gray’s piece on
travel writing in issue 98, and Mike Unwin’s school to one they visited, to set up a pen-pal scheme.
How to write about wildlife, in issue 93. Hold Africa-themed birthday parties with fancy-dress,
animal cakes and games, posters, and photos from your
trip, and show films like The Lion King or Madagascar.
Keep their interest alive by taking nature walks at
home — our squirrels, foxes, garden birds and bugs will
nourish their interest in wildlife.

142 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

Relive the Africa experience
1
Invite like-minded
friends over to chat about
your trip (maybe around a
firepit in your garden!) with
plenty of South African wine,
Amarula or Tusker beer to
keep the evening flowing.
Keep a note of meals you
enjoyed and make them
when you’re home — foods
such as biltong and chakalaka
are readily available and
tasty salads popular in lodge
lunches are easy to recreate.
2
Join birdwatching or
wildlife walks around your
Picture
the scene
1
Sort
through your
photos (trim, trim,
trim!) and select a
‘best of…’ folder to
share with friends
and family, choosing
the very best to
frame.
2
Create gifts
from your
wildlife images:
printed postcards, cushion
covers, birthday cards,
blankets, jigsaws, keyrings,
Christmas baubles and
even socks. Photobox has
myriad options.
3
Design a photobook
of your trip, including
Referring to your notes (see Reflections above) and brainstorming ideas, chat to your tour operator and start to
research and plan your next adventure. And of course: subscribe or extend your subscription to Travel Africa for
SUBMIT: WRITE A STORY ABOUT A FAVOURITE SAFARI MOMENT AND SEND IT TO EDITOR@TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM. WE MAY PUBLISH IT IN A FUTURE ISSUE | 143
Keep a memoir
area — our local species are
just as engaging as Africa’s Why not write a record of your time
A-list animals if you give them in Africa? Your family may truly value
your time. your stories in years to come. Here’s
3
Present a talk at a local
two examples from our readership
school or to groups
like the Women’s Institute,
perhaps focusing on Ben Neale: My Kenya; My Kenya –
conservation projects or The Next Few Years
cultural aspects of your trip. Ben Neale had always dreamt of visiting
4
Help one of the Kenya, inspired by a love of animals and films
conservation or such as Born Free, but it wasn’t until 1992 that
community projects or he was finally able to do so. He and his
species you loved; raise wife have since returned many times,
funds through challenges like and he has self-published two books
marathons or park runs. which chronicle their travels, recalling
innumerable memorable wildlife
encounters and demonstrating Africa’s
power to capture the imaginations and
hearts of all who visit.
Alf Crease: Alf’s Memoirs
Alf Crease’s grandchildren will be pleased he
chose to write his fascinating record of life
in Africa sixty years ago. Growing up in the
sleepy English town of Dursley, Alf leapt at
the chance to exchange the grey austerities
of post-World War II England for the exotic
climes of Africa. Leaving school at 14, Alf had
trained as a carpenter before Africa called.
He ended up setting up a carpentry shop
in the remote Tanzanian town of Chunya,
a settlement close to the Lupa Goldfields,
complete with drunken prospectors, big-
game hunters and other long-since vanished
captions and stories from colonial types. Alf’s subsequent career saw
your journal (Bob’s Books him dabble in gold prospecting and crocodile
and Jessops offer easy-to- hunting, before working as an engineer in the
use software). tea business, overseeing the construction of a
4
Paint or sketch your new factory and supervising other projects on
favourite species the Chivanjee Estates.
or scenes from your
photographs.
LO O K A H E A D …
your ongoing source of inspiration!
 Africa at home

ROBERT IRWN (2)

Africa in your home
Infuse some African character into your home —
whether you buy while you’re there or order online,
you’ll be spoilt for choice with the wealth of Africa’s
creative talent and its flourishing art and craft scene.
Here we offer some tips and a few suggestions to
help you fill your home with the energy of Africa,
with the added feelgood factor of helping projects
that focus on Fairtrade principles, including women’s
empowerment, fair employment, community
upliftment and conservation. In most African countries
you’ll find a wealth of opportunites to buy something
special for your home, so keep your eyes at the ready!
Colour me African. Wax print can be used in many ways to
GREEN SAFARIS

brighten the home, such as batiks, bedspreads, lampshades,

cushion covers, table runners or wall hangings

A splash of colour
Seeking a quintessential African look? Try wax print, suggests Robert Irwin
Katunda: A
craftswoman African wax print fabric huge. In 1960 one English simple wrapper or pagne.
working on
is a defining metaphor of company alone shipped Designs range from
a tumbled
glass hanging African design, fashion 14,000 miles of wax print, traditional African
ornament at and expression: Its bold most of it to savvy women motifs to wacky object-
their Malawi
workshop
designs and colours just market traders called based prints such as
say “Africa”. ‘Nana Benz’ after their car shoes, fans, bicycles
But is wax print truly of choice. — almost anything,
INTERIOR DÉCOR African? Africa is rich in Enter the dragon. Today including politicians.
Many shops offer a range of African textile traditions: think 90 per cent of printed Genuine wax print is
homeware, from soft furnishings Kente, mud cloth and fabric in Africa comes from very robust and stands
to furniture. Training local women indigo. But wax print China. It’s not genuine up to years of washing.
actually originated in 19th wax, it’s a lower quality It’s great for colourful
to be artisans, Katundu (katundu.
century Europe. The Dutch facsimile, often smuggled and distinctive clothing.
com), on Likoma Island in Lake colonised Java, home tax free across borders. Many innovative textile
Malawi, sells beautiful lighting and of batik. Chasing bigger That keeps it cheap, artists use it in their quilts
wall decor, textiles and tables all profits, they industrialised undercutting genuine, and wall hangings. In
made with recycled materials from batik production in quality producers left like the home, it’s perfect
tumbled glass to old bicycles and Holland and sold the ATL and GTP in Ghana and for curtains, cushions,
fabric in West Africa. Vlisco in Holland. lampshades, tablecloths
boat wood. Lalibella (lalibella.co.uk)
Entrepreneurs in the Wax print is worn by and, if you’re bold enough,
supports educational projects in world’s “cotton capital”, women, men and children even upholstery.
Ethiopia through its online store, Manchester, copied them. of every social standing, Last words. If the fabric
working with designers and artisans Africans loved the fabric from humble farmers to is cheap, it’s probably
from across Africa. And Etikora and a lucrative new trade elite politicians. It’s tailored Chinese. Buying it pushes
was born. into elaborate dresses and African producers closer
(etikora.com) sells goods from the
The numbers were suits, and also worn as a to the brink.
Kingdom of Eswatini and Kenya, all
sustainably sourced and made with READ MORE: AFRICAN WAX PRINT: A TEXTILE JOURNEY, BY MAGIE RELPH AND ROBERT IRWIN. FOR OVER
35 YEARS, THE AUTHORS TRAVELLED THE BACKROADS OF AFRICA RESEARCHING AND BUYING TEXTILES
local materials. FOR THEIR FAIR TRADE BUSINESS, THE AFRICAN FABRIC SHOP (WWW.AFRICANFABRIC.CO.UK)

144 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 Glassware
When scrap glass meets
creativity and innovative
design, the results can be
spectacular. Many glass-
blowing studios offer tours
for visitors, along with
shops selling everything
from beads, glasses and
animal figurines to huge
chandeliers and furniture.
Visit Anselm Kitengela
Hot Glass (kitengela.
com) an hour’s drive from
Nairobi or Ngwenya Glass (ngwenyaglass.co.sz) in Eswatini,
both supporting local artisans and communities, for distinctive
gifts for your friends or your home.

Stoneware
and metalware
Indoor and outdoor
sculptures add an African
aura to any home. AMS
(africanmastersofstone.co.uk)
specialise in hand-carved
statues, from small gifts to large
ANSELM KITENGELA HOT GLASS (2)

statement pieces, created by

Shona stone sculpturers from

AFRICAN MASTERS OF STONE

Zimbabwe. Also supporting
Zimbabwean craftsmen, Chi-
A touch of glass. At Anselm
Kitengela Hot Glass in Nairobi, Africa (chi-africa.com) focuses
products range from everyday on garden décor with birds,
glassware to elaborate
sculptures and chandeliers
beasts and flowers made from
recycled or reclaimed metal.

Basketware
Whether bright and bold
or in muted shades,
basket designs exude
African tradition and
symbolism. Check out
the colourful top-
quality Bolga baskets
from Baba Tree Basket
Company (babatree.com/
africanfabric.co.uk)
in Ghana that supports
over 250 weavers. Gone
Rural (www.gonerural.
co.uk) sells beautiful
BABA TREE BASKET COMPANY

baskets, tableware, wall

hangings and lamp shades
made from local grass,
supporting nearly 800
women and their families One of 250 artisans at the Baba Tree Basket Company in Ghana
in Eswatini

FACT: ETHIOPIA IS THE ONLY SUB-SAHARAN AFRICAN COUNTRY NEVER TO BE COLONISED | 145
 Africa at home

Our buying advice

Plan:
Before you leave for Africa, make a note of
what you might want or need, so you can
Scraping the keep an eye out for it on your travels. This
starch. Tribal will help you to shop with a conscience as
TRIBAL TEXTILES

Textiles is a must-
visit enterprise
well as with a purpose.
for all visitors to Act:
South Luangwa On safari, when you see something you like,
NP in Zambia
buy it — you may not come across it again,
Textiles as products vary between lodge, market
Fabrics evoke the spirit of Africa in the hues of nature inspired by the and location.
bush and beach, or in the vibrant colours of women’s dresses and Markets:
wrap-around kangas. In Uganda, Ride 4 A Woman (ride4awoman.org) is Ask to be taken to local markets, which
a grassroots project beside Bwindi National Park that sells high quality often offer a treasure trove of products. Be
clothes, tableware, cushion covers, handbags, purses and even iPad cases, prepared to spend hours there!
benefiting local women through employment, microfinance, and refuge Roadside stalls:
from domestic violence. And the fabulous Tribal Textiles (tribaltextiles. Stop on the side of the road to browse small
co.zm), just outside South Luangwa National Park in Zambia, offers hand- stall holders — you might find something
painted bed linen, wall hangings and tableware in contemporary and surprising there.
traditional styles, helping to fund community and conservation initiatives. Store shipping:
Ask the store or gallery if they can ship your
purchase home for you if there is no space in
your bag. Not all do as there is a minefield of
Art things to think about, but it is worth asking,
Bring Africa’s people, especially if it is bulky or heavy.
wildlife and wild places General shipping:
into your home in beautiful There are usually several forms that need to
paintings in classic or be filled out along with commodity codes
contemporary style. Check out and descriptions for overseas shipping.
ART

the distinctive Tingatinga Weight and size:

TINGATINGA AFRICAN

Art (tingatingaart.com) Think about luggage allowance — if you are

for vibrant, sometimes bringing it back in person, you may need to
cartoon-like Tingatinga make a plan here.
style artworks by Dimensions:
specialist Tanzanian artists. For Check dimensions and colours if you’re
wildlife art that supports conservation, try the David buying online — you don’t want to be
Shephard Wildlife Foundation’s Wildlife Art Ambassadors disappointed or mildly surprised when you
(davidshepherd.org) for exquisite collectable pieces. receive your piece of Africa!
Packaging:
Double-check how your goods will be
wrapped and transported. Even if they are in
Flavours of Africa your own bag, they will need to be protected
Wake up to the smell of the award-winning in transit.
arabica coffee from Gorilla Conservation Delivery times:
Coffee (ctph.org/coffee-safari), grown Do check the schedule — shipping from
on the borders of Bwindi Impenetrable Africa can take anything from ten days to six
National Park, Uganda. Or try Gorongosa weeks, depending on the item and where it
Coffee (ourgorongosa.com) from the slopes of Mount Gorongosa, comes from.
Mozambique, where 850 local farmers cultivate shade-grown coffee. Supporting Africa:
Both support conservation and community projects. Over dinner, enjoy Please do check that you are buying through
Painted Wolf Wines (paintedwolfwines.com) from South Africa: every sip ethical individuals and companies; check
contributes to the conservation of African wild dogs. out websites and do some due diligence.

146 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

 #®­³ ¢³ ´² ¥®± ¢®¬¯¤³¨³¨µ¤ ¯±¨¢¨­¦
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www.reveur.co.za

SUBSCRIBE AT WWW.TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM 147

 Africa at home
READING
MATTERS
Looking for something to read?
When we asked you to share your
book recommendations, you didn’t hold
back. The result is a small library of
titles that have inspired and informed
your fascination with Africa —
including several that Travel Africa
readers have themselves authored.
How many have you read?
148 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
READERS’ The Sacred Combe
By Simon Barnes
READING A series of short descriptions of his
introduction to and subsequent visits to
LIST the Luangwa Valley in Zambia. He explains
how we all need a special place in our lives.
There are some delightful stories of his
A selection of experiences, some of which mirrored my
your favourite own visits. I keep dipping into it when I feel
books the urge to be reminded of the joy of the
valley.
Sally Herbert
Kruger Self-Drive
By Heinrich van den Berg
We have a trip planned through Kruger,
so I recently purchased this book. It is
excellent, including all the track details,
routes, what to see — and with fantastic
photos of animals and birds.
Peter Atkinson
An elephant at my door
By Louise Deretchin
What an adventure! I felt like I was on
safari right along with the author. Louise’s
storytelling is an immersive experience
of sights, sounds and laugh-out-loud
moments. I’ve already enjoyed gifting this
book and am hearing rave reviews.
Ashley Henson
Roaring at the dawn
By Brian Jackman
Many readers will be familiar with
Brian Jackman from the pages of
Travel Africa. I suggest that anyone
who loves Africa should get hold
of this book. Subtitled ‘Journeys
in Wild Africa’ and using material
collected from some 20 years
of travelling, Jackman describes
many of his journeys on safari, from
meeting the Marsh Lions with Jonathan
Scott to visiting the Presidential Elephants
in Hwange, all illustrated with stunning
photographs. I can think of no one else
who can conjure up the African bush
like Brian Jackman.
Anne Wilkinson
Broken spears: A Maasai journey
by Elizabeth L Gilbert
As a regular visitor to Kenya and to
Tanzania, I have always taken time to
explore the culture of the Maasai people.
This book is an amazing insight into
an enchanting world which has long
fascinated me, revealing a way of life fast
disappearing. This iconic race, so colourful
in their traditional dress, now involve
themselves in helping protect wildlife. They
are the most warm, hospitable people who
live amongst the animals; there is no-one
better to guide your safari.
Tony Proud
The Serengeti Lion by George Schaller
Everything you ever wanted to know about Africa’s
top carnivore.
I Dreamed of Africa by Kuki Gallmann
Kuki Gallmann is the Karen Blixen of our time, a
blonde Italian enchantress weaving heart-breaking
tales of Kenya from her remote retreat above the
Mukutan Gorge in Laikipia.
Cry of the Kalahari by Mark and Delia Owens
Delia Owens has since won fame as the author of the best-seller Where the
Crawdads Sing. Here, with husband Mark, she describes the joys and travails of
their time in Botswana’s biggest wilderness.

The Zanzibar Chest Battle for the Elephants by Iain and Oria Douglas-Hamilton
By Aidan Hartley The inside story of the poaching wars that have devastated Africa’s elephant
This really is a book to be herds, from its beginnings in Tsavo to the Ivory trade ban — told by the
savoured and read slowly. Douglas-Hamiltons, who were there from start to finish.
His writing about Rwanda Recommended by Brian Jackman
in 1994 is harrowing stuff, of course. I
really love the parts about Yemen — it’s not
Africa, but integral to the story. Beautifully
written, sad, happy, poetic, insightful,
tragic, lyrical, funny….
Liz Mattock Serengeti shall not die
by Bernhard Grzimek
I read this in school and became totally
obsessed with the Serengeti and African
To the Central African Lakes and Back by Joseph Thomson wildlife. I was lucky to be able to go with
Thomson’s first safari, to Tanzania. He was the second-in-command on an exploration my parents on a three-week safari to
into the interior along the Rufiji River. The big mistake was that the expedition leader East Africa in 1973. One of the biggest
decided to begin the safari in the wet season and died shortly after the start of adventures was to visit Serengeti, which
the trip. Thomson, in his twenties, took over and completed the mission. He was was as impressive as I had dreamed about
known for negotiating with the local tribes and trying to not incite aggression or after reading Grzimek´s book. In those
bad feelings. Unlike Stanley, who was known for beating and abusing his workers, days, Serengeti had very few visitors and
Thomson was fair and respectful. His book details the daily life of a foot safari in the off-road driving was allowed. My wife and
19th century and he saw things that no longer exist. The Thomson’s gazelle I visited Serengeti in the middle of the
was named after he brought back a specimen from his second safari. pandemic and had a similar
experience: no tourists but a
The Great Safari by Adrian House lot of animals.
Biography of George and Joy Adamson,
offering much insight to this pair of lion The wilderness family
advocates and return-to-the-wild pioneers. by Kobie Krüger
This is a beautiful, touching
The Last Lions by Dereck and Beverley Joubert story about a family living
Everything from this couple is outstanding. They have in the African wilderness. It
many other books as well. Excellent observers of behaviour, and even more fantastic brings back a lot of memories of spending
chroniclers of African wildlife. Their photography is jaw-dropping. time in the remote bush.
Recommended by Carrie Burhenn Recommended by Per Eriksson

TA@100: WE HAVE PUBLISHED OVER 1050 FEATURE ARTICLES | 149

 Africa at home
Flowers for Elephants
by Peter Martell
An in-depth, well-
rounded take on
conservation in Kenya.
From the creation of
Lewa and the effort
to save rhinos, to
the development
of community-protected land, Peter
Martell has presented the story with all-
encompassing views from community
members, rangers and, perhaps most
importantly, the poachers themselves.
African Twilight
by Carol Beckwith and
Angela Fisher
Equally as important
as the wildlife are the
people who call Africa
home. Beckwith and
Fisher have spent
decades travelling the
continent gaining access and documenting
tribal rituals and ceremonies, many of
which have since died out. African Twilight
is their most recent publication, containing
stunning imagery and write-ups describing
the events.
Dinner with Mugabe
by Heidi Holland
A unique perspective of a man who has
shaped history. This book is based solely
around interviews with people who knew
and interacted with Mugabe throughout
his life, from his niece to his tailor. Holland
does not try to explain away or justify his
behaviour, but instead presents differing
views from those around him in an
attempt to understand his life.
Handbook of Mammals of Madagascar
by Nick Garbutt
This covers all 217 native mammal
species, inclusive of descriptions,
behaviour, distribution maps, and over
350 images. Nick is an award-winning
photographer and leading authority on
Malagasy wildlife, and this book is a result
of his 30+ years of experience. It is the
most up to date and comprehensive
photographic guide available for
Madagascar’s wildlife.
150 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
Pathfinder
by Janesta Pulella
A must-have for any nature enthusiast,
and a good compromise for those who
do not want to get bogged down with
in-depth scientific papers. The information
is presented with straight-forward writing
and complementary diagrams, covering
everything from mammals to corals and
weather patterns.
Handbook of the Mammals of the World
by Lynx Edicions
Handbook of the Birds of the World
by Lynx Edicions
Neither of these titles are focused
solely on Africa, however they offer
very detailed and in-depth information,
including movements, home ranges,
social organisation, activity patterns,
breeding, etc, along with photos and
sketches of male, female and juveniles.
They offer up a wealth of knowledge in
one complete package.
The Hospital by the River
by Dr Catherine Hamlin
Catherine’s personal account of her
life and how she and her husband, Dr
Reg Hamlin, came to settle in Ethiopia,
pioneering surgery for obstetric fistulas,
resulting in the establishment of six fistula
hospitals. The book provides insight in
to the day-to-day plight faced by women
during childbirth, and how the Hamlin’s
work impacted the Ethiopian community
for the better.
Emma’s War
by Deborah Scroggins
Songs of a War Boy
by Deng Thiak Adut
When read together, these books offer
comparable but very different views
and accounts of the civil war in South
Sudan. One, a biography of a British
aid worker who came to marry Reick
Machar, a rebel leader of the Sudan
People’s Liberation Army, who fought for
independence and ultimately became
Vice President. The other, a first-hand
account of a Dinka boy, forced to
become a child soldier under the SPLA.
Recommended by Serena Luthe
The Elephant Whisperer
by Lawrence Anthony
Although each of his books
is a fantastic read, this is my
favourite. Heart-warming and
sad at the same time. However,
I did recently also read his wife’s
book An elephant in my kitchen
and that made me cry at almost
every chapter.
Dangerous Beauty
by Mark C Ross
Very open and honest, horrifically
shocking, but heroic at the same
time. A gripping read.
The Last Resort
by Douglas Rogers
When a Crocodile Eats the Sun
by Peter Goodwin
Both offer an educational insight
into life in Zimbabwe under
Mugabe rule. Shocking but very
informative. Real eye-openers.
Torn Trousers
by Andrew St. Pierre and
Gwynn White
Hilariously funny and
a great read.
And the whole series of books
by Gareth Patterson.
Anyone who loves lions, will love
all these books!
Recommended by Ann Hilton
The Tree Where Man
Was Born
by Peter Matthiessen
This classic portrayal
of East Africa remains
Further reader
fresh and pertinent.
Matthiessen is an
recommendations:
exceptional writer,
and exquisitely describes the wildlife,
landscapes and people of this region. He African Saga All the way home
made numerous trips here in the ‘60s, and by Mirella Ricciardi by Bookey Peek
his adventures enliven his account.
African Rainbow Sense Africa five ways
by Mirella Riccciardi byJenny Bowen
The Spotted Hyena: A Study of
Predation and Social Behavior Vanishing Africa
Confessions of a safari
by Hans Kruuk by Mirella Riccciardi
guide
A comprehensive study of spotted hyenas
An African Love Story by Lloyd Camp
in Ngorongoro Crater and the Serengeti.
by Daphne Sheldrick
Hyenas are unfortunately still disparaged Africa bites: Scrapes and
by some, but Kruuk shows they are Horn of the Hunter escapes in the African bush
fascinating creatures. Long thought to live by Robert Ruark by Lloyd Camp
mostly by scavenging, in some areas they On Leopard Rock Among the Elephants
hunt more than lions. They also have weird by Wilbur Smith by Iain and Oria Douglas-
interactions with one another. The book
Hamilton
includes insights on wildebeest, zebras The Trouble with Africa
and Thomson’s gazelles. by Vic Guhrs Ivory, apes and peacocks
by Alan Root
We Need New Names
The Long African Day by No Violet Bulawayo The year of the gorilla
by Norman Myers by George B Schaller
A well-illustrated volume describing the Nervous Conditions
activities of African wildlife broken into by Tsitsi Dangarembga My Serengeti years
Early Day, Middle Day, Late Day and Into by Myles Turner
An Elegy for Easterly
the Night. Anyone interested in African by Petina Gappah An African love story
wildlife and safaris will find innumerable by Daphne Sheldrick
Congo journey
insights into the interactions among the
by Redmond O’Hanlon On foot in the African
entire spectrum of wildlife, from naked
bush
mole rats to cheetahs to fighting zebras. Back to the bush
by Jeff Williams
by James Hendry
The Year of the Gorilla,
My life with leopards
by George B. Schaller
by Fransje van Riel
Schaller describes two years
studying mountain gorillas in Wilderness dreaming
the Virunga Volcanoes on the by Greg du Toit
Zaire-Rwanda-Uganda border.
Don’t look behind
His account is superior to Dian
you!:True tales of
Fossey’s. Schaller undertook
a safari guide
the first serious study of these
by Peter Allison
majestic animals in the late 1950s, and
he describes their behaviour and natural Whatever you do,
history. A gifted writer, Schaller celebrates don’t run:
his adventures, the seclusion of the True tales of
naturalist, and focuses on the conservation a Botswana
challenges for mountain gorillas. safari guide
by Peter Allison
Recommended by Craig S Harrison

MORE? SEND YOUR BOOK RECOMMENDATIONS TO EDITOR@TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM | 151

 Africa at home

SHARING THE LOVE

Books some of our readers have had
commercially published, which you can buy
from online retailers. Collated by Gavin Thomas

MEMOIRS AND HISTORICAL freeform ramblings of Skillan and friends projects including powerlines, roads and a
during the 1960s, working and wandering new airport, plus construction of a remote
Dreams of a Vanishing his way from Africa to America over the pumping station on the Blue Nile in Sudan
Africa – A 1970s course of almost seven years. The opening and close encounters with gun-toting
transcontinental trek third of the book recounts Skillan’s African rebels in Khartoum.
by Craig S Harrison travels, starting in Morocco, the newly
A memorable account independent nation of Algeria and Egypt
of the author’s before heading south via Sudan to Kenya TRAVEL GUIDES
gruelling year-long and subsequently South Africa, roughing
trans-Africa trip of it and odd-jobbing his way across the Makgadikgadi Pans:
1971–72, eloquently continent, from selling books on the A traveller’s guide
written and illustrated with some great ‘70s pavements of Nairobi to building radio to the salt flats of
photographs. Starting in Spanish Sahara (as masts in the Cape. Botswana
was), Harrison and companion Dave Graber by Grahame McLeod
travelled on decrepit trains, cargo trucks, The Call of the The lunar salt pans of
rattletrap buses, jammed bush taxis, dugout Fish Eagle – the Makgadikgadi are a
canoes and ferries across the Sahel and Travels and magnet for adventurous
West Africa and on via the Congo to Kenya, adventures in Africa and curious African travellers, thanks to
before heading south to arrive, eventually, by Giampaolo Fortini the region’s otherworldly landscape and
in South Africa. An intriguing glimpse into Translated from Italian, unique array of wildlife. The only dedicated
Africa’s early post-colonial history and an Fortini’s memoir guidebook to the area, McLeod’s expertly
impressive memento of offers glimpses of written volume provides an invaluable
epic adventure travel in a now-vanished introduction to this magical destination,
the grand style. Africa, recounting the covering attractions both on and off the
author’s myriad experiences during several beaten track, with maps and plenty of
A 1960s Global decades working as an engineer in the handy practical information along the way.
Odyssey – Around continent. Starting in Zambia and colonial-
the world in 80 era Rhodesia in the mid-1960s, Fortini’s African safari adventures
Months travels include visits to apartheid South by Bill Attwell
by David Skillan Africa and spells in Namibia and Angola Subtitled “A Guide to
“Odyssey” recounts the working on a series of infrastructure Organising a Great
Safari”, Attwell’s
book encapsulates
White Skin, African Soul the author’s 35 years
Piccanin Bwana – Scenes from an African childhood of safari travel in
by Ian Jameson Buchan 14 different African
These two volumes chart Buchan’s early life in colonial Northern Rhodesia, countries since his
describing a crucial era in the development of the modern continent first extended visit to South Africa in 1985.
and his role as “a witness as well as a participant in the final struggle Covering all the major safari destinations
between the forces of white colonial conservatism and emerging African of southern and Eastern Africa (plus
nationalism”. White Skin, African Soul comprises a collection of short Madagascar), the guide mixes useful
stories mixing memoir and autobiographical fiction set in the colonial and post-colonial practical overviews with helpful maps and
southern African countries of Northern Rhodesia/Zambia, Rhodesia/Zimbabwe and South a selection of images, interspersed with
Africa, while Piccanin Bwana is an autobiographical novel set in the Northern Rhodesia of personal anecdotes recounting the author’s
the 1940s and ‘50s, where the author’s father was a district officer. myriad experiences of life in the bush.

152 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA


PHOTOGRAPHY
AND WILDLIFE
The Selous in Africa – A long way from
anywhere by Robert J Ross
A unique pictorial record of Tanzania’s
vast Selous Game Reserve (subsequently
rechristened the Nyerere National Park), Robert
Ross’s magnificent photographs capture
the stunning scale and contrasts of one of
Africa’s greatest wilderness areas — covering
an area bigger than Switzerland and teeming
with some of the continent’s largest wildlife
populations. Almost 400 images showcase the
park’s extraordinary fauna, accompanied by
text on the reserve’s history and ecology, and
extracts from fellow Selous aficionado Peter
Matthiessen’s Sand Rivers.
GET GNUS: SIGN UP TO OUR SHAMWARI EMAIL GNUSLETTER AT TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM | 153
GENERAL
I Heart Africa Project
by Nikki Lockwood
Lockwood’s care for Africa comes through in this
epic compendium of African voices (iheartafricaproject.
com) which showcases fifty-odd interviews with a diverse
cast of guides, conservationists, photographers, wildlife
vets, travellers, volunteers and others. Some of the
names may be familiar, others are less well known; but
all have equally interesting tales to tell, ranging from the
unusual story of German expat Stephanie Fuchs’ life on a
remote Tanzanian homestead following her marriage to a
Maasai warrior, through to insights from those involved at
the front-end of conservation.
PERSONAL TRAVELOGUES
Namibia Discovered
by Joe McDaniel
Namibia has clearly cast its spell over traveller
Joe McDaniel, whose “souvenir journal” records a
fifteen-day road trip across the country in a string of
photographs recording its towering red-sand dunes, vast
desert flats, ancient petroglyphs and rocky peaks and
canyons — and of course its diverse wildlife. The same
author’s Finding Wildlife on Safari (co-written with Jan
McDaniel) takes a more practical approach, providing
hands-on info about travelling to selected destinations in
South Africa, Namibia and Botswana.
 Africa at home

The Wisdom of Elephants

by Kathy Karn
This beautifully produced volume
showcases Kathy Karn’s stunning
photographs of and encounters with
the renowned elephants of Amboseli
National Park, including some of the
last images taken of Big Tusker Tim, Africa: A Spritiual bush, spotting flamingoes,
flamingoes, a newborn
ne
one of Kenya’s most famous elephants. Journey – gazelle
elle taking
taking its first
first steps, a parade of
A proportion of all book sales are Communicating ostriches
ostriches and many
many other species,
specie before
befor
bef
donated to elephant conservation with animals night finally falls
falls and the leopar
leopardd steps out
projects in Kenya. by Joanne Stefanatos to stalk
stalk his prey.
prey
pr
US wildlife vet
Joanne Stefanatos The Magic
Magic
provides a unique of Life
take on African byy Danny
Danny
wildife — and Green,
een, Pia
mankind’s connection with it — in this Dierickx and
highly personal book, which explores Karin
arin van
v
our links to animals both in a religious Couwenberg
Couwenber
ouwenber
ouwenberg
context, as part of our wider relationship The third
thir in The Magic of o seriess (w
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with God, and in scientific terms as the wildlife-photography.be),
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wildlife-photogr
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e-photograph y.be), Life
Lif offers
off s a
expression of the laws of quantum physics tribute to the diverse
diver
div se beauty
beauty of the planet’s
planet’
and electromagnetic fields — a putative wildlife,
wildlife, fromom African destinations
destinations including
explanation perhaps of the idea of animal Botswana
Bots ana and Tanzania
T ania to other countrie
countries
The World As It Once Was “whispering”, whereby some humans ranging
anging fromfrom Finland
Finland to the USA.
US It featur
USA ffeatures
atures
by George Dian Balan appear to be able to establish uncanny, a selection of stunning wildlife
wildlif images
image
More than five years in the making almost telepathic, connections to wild with an introduction
introduction byby Dr Jane Goodall
and featuring the work of over 100 animals. Numerous photos accompanied and a foreword
fore
f ord
d by
by Dereck
Dereck and Beverly
Bev
award-winning photographers, The by Biblical proverbs illustrate the text. Joubert.
Joubert. A portion
portion of profits
profits go to Goodall’s
Goodall’
World As It Once Was features stunning Tchimpounga
chimpounga chimp rrehabilit
rehabilitation
ehabilitation
images of some of the continent’s Can You Spot the centree in the R Republic
epublic of Congo
most emblematic megafauna — Leopard? and to R Roots
oots & Shoots,
huge tuskers, spectacularly horned by Karen B Winnick which helps educate
rhinos and so on — accompanied by A pictorial safari for young
oung people about
supporting text in which the author children, Winnick’s animals and the
outlines his blueprint for a sustainable picture book takes environment.
vision of African biodiversity. All profits the reader on a
from the book are donated to the Tsavo bumpy jeep ride
Trust in Kenya. across the African

154 MA
MAY-JULY
JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA
̇̇̇ʾ̅˽˻̅˽˲˵˲̅̃˸˼˿˴˷˵ʾ˳˿˽

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 khulu bush camp: a wild life experience
ˤ˸˵ ̃˽˱˼˼˵̂ʼ ˽˿̂˵ ˹˾̄˹˽˱̄˵ ̃˹̃̄˵̂ ̄˿ ˹̄̃ ˾˵˹˷˸˲˿̅̂˹˾˷ ˙̆˿̂̉ ˜˿˴˷˵ʼ ˛˸̅˼̅ ˒̅̃˸ ˓˱˽̀ ˹̃ ˘̇˱˾˷˵ ˞˱̄˹˿˾˱˼ ˠ˱̂˻Ͻ̃ ́̅˹˾̄˵̃̃˵˾̄˹˱˼ ̃˱˶˱̂˹
˵̈̀˵̂˹˵˾˳˵ʾ ˓˿˽˲˹˾˹˾˷ ˼̅̈̅̂˹˿̅̃ ̀̂˹̆˱̄˵ ˱˳˳˿˽˽˿˴˱̄˹˿˾ ̇˹̄˸ ˿˼˴ʽ̇˿̂˼˴ ˪˹˽˲˱˲̇˵˱˾ ˲̅̃˸ ˸˿̃̀˹̄˱˼˹̄̉ʼ ˛˸̅˼̅ ˿̆˵̂˼˿˿˻̃ ˱˾ ˱˾˳˹˵˾̄
̂˹̆˵̂˲˵˴ ̇˸˹˳˸ ˱̄̄̂˱˳̄̃ ˱˾ ˱˲̅˾˴˱˾˳˵ ˿˶ ̇˹˼˴˼˹˶˵ ˱˾˴ ˲˹̂˴˼˹˶˵ʾ ˑ˼̃˿ ̆˹̃˹̄ ˣ˱˲˼˵ ˦˱˼˼˵̉ʼ ˙̆˿̂̉
˜˿˴˷˵ ˱˾˴ ˑ˽˱˼˹˾˴˱ ˜˿˴˷˵ ˶˿̂ ̄˸˵ ˳˿˽̀˼˵̄˵ ˘̇˱˾˷˵ ˱˾˴ ˝˱̄˿˲˿ ˘˹˼˼̃ ˵̈̀˵̂˹˵˾˳˵ʼ ˱˾˴
̃̅̀̀˿̂̄ ̄˸˵ ˱˾̄˹ʽ̀˿˱˳˸˹˾˷ ˱˾˴ ˳˿˽˽̅˾˹̄̉ ̇˿̂˻ ˿˶ ˿̅̂ ˝˿̄˸˵̂ ˑ˶̂˹˳˱ ˤ̂̅̃̄ʾ

̇̇̇ʾ˱˽˱˼˹˾˴˱˳˿˼˼˵˳̄˹˿˾ʾ˳˿˽

Jewel of the Western Chobe–Botswana

Tf t f s wb u j p o t < j o gp B n v d i f o k f 0 d p n Uf m < -4 9 *2+ 9 4 392 : : 9 ; x x x0 n v d i f o k f 0 d p n

156 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA


   
 
 







 





 

 
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! ƭźŭŷƷ ŅƚƩ ǤƚǒƩ ĻǤĻƭ

With Nairobi being the only city with a National Park, it makes sense to make the most of it. At Emara
Ole-Sereni you’ll experience the majestic views of the savannah as well as enjoy lavish comfort. Our rooftop
Sky Lounge enables you to enjoy the city skyline and the National Park at the same time, while you sip on
sundowners. We have a fully-fledged convention centre with world-class amenities and are located an easy
5-minute drive from the international airport, making your stay in Nairobi both convenient and memorable!
ǞǞǞ͵ƚƌĻΏƭĻƩĻƓź͵ĭƚƒ ĻƓƨǒźƩźĻƭθƚƌĻΏƭĻƩĻƓźŷƚƷĻƌ͵ĭƚƒ

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 Advertiser index

safari planner
Crafted Africa 98 Lapalala Wilderness IBC
Local operator specialising in Malawi Conservation in the Waterberg.
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Green Safaris 12 Tintswalo Lodges 135
Lodges in Malawi and Zambia. Lapalala Wilderness Reserve
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We are so grateful for the support so many
Robin Pope Safaris 84 Tread Lite 4x4 Hire 75
companies have given us over the last 25 years. Lodges, safaris in Malawi, Zambia. Ready-packed self-drive vehicles
They are here to help you plan your trip, and to www.robinpopesafaris.net www.treadlite4x4.co.za

host you on safari. We hope you will prioritise
them when researching your next trip. Please tell
them you saw them in Travel Africa.
BOTSWANA
African Bush Camps
Camps in Zim, Botswana, Zambia.
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andBeyond
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andbeyond.com
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Personalised tours in southern Africa.
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Desert and Delta Safaris
Lodges and safaris in northern Bots.
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Great Plains Conservation
Lodges in northern Botswana.
greatplainsconservation.com
Ker & Downey Botswana
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Machaba Safaris
Lodges in Botswana and Zimbabwe.
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Muchenje Safari Lodge
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Sun Destinations
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Wilderness Safaris 120-121
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CHAD
Doug Macdonald’s Safaris
Mobile private safaris across Africa.
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Private Guided Safaris
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Tongole Wilderness Retreat 97 Umkumbe Bush Lodge 155
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NAMIBIA TANZANIA
andBeyond 4-5 Alex Walker’s Serian 125
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andbeyond.com www.serian.com
CONGO BASIN ATI Holidays 15 andBeyond 4-5
Tailored holidays in southern Africa. Lodges and safaris across Africa.
125 Congo Conservation Co 65 www.ati-holidays.com andbeyond.com
Camps in Odzala and Dzanga-Sangha
www.congoconservation.travel Cape Cross Lodge 75 Asilia Africa 66-68
Cape fur seal colony Skeleton Coast Lodges including Rubondo Island.
4-5 www.capecross.org www.asiliaafrica.com
KENYA
Chameleon Holidays 127 Nurturing Minds / SEGA 157
Alex Walker’s Serian 125 Tours across southern Africa. Educating Tanzanian girls.
140 Specialist safaris in East Africa. www.chameleonholidays.com www.nurturingmindsinafrica.org
www.serian.com
Cheetah Conservation Fund 136 Sassabi Expeditions 157
Bush and Beyond 26 Volunteer at field research centre. Local specialist safari operator.
28 Specialising in owner-run camps. www.cheetah.org www.sassabiexpeditions.com
www.bush-and-beyond.com
Gondwana Collection 75 The Zanzibar Collection 8
Emara Ole Sereni 157 Accommodation and tours. Lodges and resorts on Zanzibar.
3 Hotel overlooking Nairobi NP. www.gondwana.travel www.thezanzibarcollection.com
www.ole-sereni.com
Mushara Lodge 58 Wild Frontiers 65
Elewana Collection 53 Accommodation at Etosha NP. Bespoke safaris and value lodges.
75 Lodges, camps, beach hotels. www.mushara-lodge.com www.wildfrontiers.com
www.elewana.com
Namibia Car Rental 74
Flying Doctors 136 Vehicle rental for all self-drive tours. UGANDA
43 Emergency evacuation cover. www.namibiacarrental.com
www.flyingdoctorsafrica.org Wild Frontiers 65
Ohorongo Game Reserve 95 Bespoke safaris and value lodges.
Great Plains Conservation 3 Exclusive safaris, northern Namibia. www.wildfrontiers.com
156 Lodges in the Mara and Chyulu Hills. www.ohorongo.eco
greatplainsconservation.com
Ongava Game Reserve IFC
Karibu Kenya 118 Private reserve by Etosha NP. ZAMBIA
70 Wellness and safari in Kenya. www.ongava.com
African Bush Camps 125
www.karibukenya.co.uk Camps in Zim, Botswana, Zambia.
Otjiwa Mountain Lodge 71
Porini Camps 118 Lodge on route to Etosha. www.africanbushcamps.com
27 Eco-camps in conservancies. www.otjiwamountainlodge.com
Classic Zambia Safaris 127
www.porini.com Owner-run, Kafue, Lower Zambezi.
Ultimate Safaris 126
Safarilink Aviation 119 Camp Sossus, Namib Desert. www.classiczambiasafaris.com
13 Safari air services in East Africa. www.ultimatesafaris.na
Edward Selfe Photo Safaris 97
www.flysafarilink.com Photo-safaris in South Luangwa NP.
Scenic Air Safaris 105 edwardselfephotosafaris.com
SOUTH AFRICA
Cross border flying safaris. Flatdogs Camp 97
www.scenicairsafaris.com EcoTraining 128
Great value in South Luangwa.
Wilderness trails courses in Kruger. www.flatdogscamp.com
Southern Cross Safaris 118 www.ecotraining.co.za
Kenya made easy; tour planning. Green Safaris 12
www.southerncrosssafaris.com Isibindi Africa Lodges 38 Kafue, Livingstone, South Luangwa.
Lodges in KwaZulu-Natal, Vic Falls. www.greensafaris.com
48 www.isibindi.co.za
MALAWI Kafunta Safaris 65
Last Word 14 Classic camps in South Luangwa.
Central African Wilderness 97 Properties in the Cape and Kruger. www.luangwa.com
85 Safaris and camps in Liwonde NP. www.thelastword.co.za
www.cawsmw.com

158 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

Mama Tembo Cheza 140 Victoria Falls Hotel 58 Pulse Africa 119
Guest house in Lusaka.
www.mttsafaris.com
Iconic hotel at Victoria Falls.
www.victoriafallshotel.com
Wilderness Safaris 120-121
Specialists crafting unique safaris.
www.pulseafrica.com Could you
be
Mama Tembo Tours 85 Rhino Africa OBC
Tailored tours southern/East Africa Camps in Zim, Botswana and Zambia. ‘World’s leading safari company’.
www.mttsafaris.com www.wilderness-safaris.com rhinoafrica.com
Zambezi Cruise & Safaris 111

a safari
Mukambi Safaris 27 Safari Bookings 2
Lodge and bush camps in Kafue NP. Houseboats and lodges, Lake Kariba Online marketplace for safaris.
www.mukambi.com www.zambezicruisesafaris.com www.safaribookings.com

Robin Pope Safaris
Lodges, safaris in Malawi, Zambia.
www.robinpopesafaris.net
Sun Destinations
Lodges in SA, Zambia and Botswana
www.sundestinations.co.za
Track & Trail River Camp
Lodge and photo safaris, Luangwa.
www.trackandtrailrivercamp.com
Waterberry Zambezi Lodge
Lodge and homestead on Zambezi.
www.waterberrylodge.com
ZIMBABWE
African Bush Camps
Camps in Zim, Botswana, Zambia.
www.africanbushcamps.com
Africa Albida Tourism
Victoria Falls Safari Lodge
www.africaalbidatourism.com
Amalinda Collection
Lodges in Matobo and Hwange NPs.
www.amalindacollection.com
Chundu Island
Lodge on island in the Zambezi.
www.seoloafrica.com
CroisiEurope
Safari cruise in southern Africa.
www.croisieurope.co.uk
Great Plains Conservation
Lodges in Sapi and Victoria Falls.
greatplainsconservation.com
Lucky Bean Travel
Safari planner for southern Africa.
www.luckybeantravel.com
Machaba Safaris
Lodges in Botswana and Zimbabwe.
www.machabasafaris.com
Palm River Hotel
New hotel on the Zambezi, Vic Falls
www.palmriverhotel.com
Rowallan Camp
Self-catering options, Matobo Hills.
www.rowallancamp.com
The Bayete Collection
Affordable accommodation Vic Falls
www.thebayetecollection.com
The Hide
Award-winning lodge in Hwange NP
www.thehide.com
Tsowa Island
Lodge in the Zambezi, Vic Falls.
www.isibindi.co.za
guide?
84 Zambezi Drift 83 Safari Consultants 15
Houseboats, lodges, Kariba, VicFalls Tailormade safari planning.
www.zambezidrift.com www.safari-consultants.com
13
TOUR OPERATORS
Sense Earth
Tours to Eswatini, Bots, Namibia.
127 The answers
www.senseearth.co.uk
andBeyond 4-5 How did you get on
84 Lodges and safaris across Africa. Southern Cross Safaris 118
andbeyond.com Kenya made easy; tour planning.
with our quiz,
Art Safari 140
www.southerncrosssafaris.com on page 124? Check
7 Painting holidays across Africa. The Grown-Up Travel Co 85 your answers here.
www.artsafari.co.uk Niche operator; tailor-made safaris.
www.grownuptravel.co 1 (3) 1200
ATI Holidays 15 2 (2) Pups
Tailored holidays in southern Africa. Vumbua Africa 35
www.ati-holidays.com Making safaris accessible for all. 3 (3) Reptiles
Botswana Bespoke Safaris 140
www.vumbuaafrica.com 4 (1) Because a tortoise
125
Personalised tours in southern Africa. Wayne Simpson Photo Tours 96 often urinates in fear
botswanabespokesafaris.com Photo tours and prints for sale. 5 (1) An animal that
https://suitcasecitizen.com
15 Bush and Beyond 26 lacks a backbone
Nairobi-based tour operator. Wild Frontiers 65 6 (1) Cold-blooded
www.bush-and-beyond.com Bespoke safaris across Africa.
www.wildfrontiers.com 7 (1) True
156 Chameleon Holidays 127 8 (1) True
Tours across southern Africa
www.chameleonholidays.com 9 (4) Antarctica
MISCELLANEOUS
10 (1) 200g
155 Crafted Africa 98 ATTA 136
Local operator specialising in Malawi 11 (3) Bright red pads on
African travel trade association.
www.craftedafrica.com www.atta.travel her rump
CroisiEurope 43 12 (2) Northern moss frog
43 Lapalala Wilderness IBC
Safari cruise in southern Africa. Invest in conservation reserve. 13 (3) Bone and cartilage
www.croisieurope.co.uk www.lapalala.com 14 (2) Their strength
3 Doug Macdonald’s Safaris 48 Livingstones Supply Co. 140 15 (1) True
Mobile private safaris across Africa. Suppliers of hospitality products.
www.dougmacsafaris.com www.livingstonessupplyco.co.za
111 Intent on Safari 119 Painted Wolf Wines 147
Safaris expertly designed for you. Supporting wild dog conservation
www.intentonsafari.com www.talkingwines.co.uk
43 Karibu Kenya 118 Patrick Mavros 147
Wellness and safari in Kenya. Luxury African jewellery and gifts
www.karibukenya.co.uk www.patrickmavros.co.uk
110 Lucky Bean Travel 111 Reveur 147
Safari planner for southern Africa. Finest linen for lodges and camps.
www.luckybeantravel.com www.reveur.co.za
111 Mahlatini Luxury Travel 9 Swarovski Optik 1
Specialist in luxury African travel. High-quality binoculars.
www.mahlatini.com www.swarovskioptik.com
105 Mama Tembo Tours
Tailored tours southern/East Africa
www.mttsafaris.com
85 The Africa Hub
Online resource for the travel trade.
www.theafricahub.co.uk
147
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53 Native Eye 84
Pioneering trips to unusual places. Subscribe or buy back
www.nativeeyetravel.com issues at
38 Private Guided Safaris 85 travelafricamag.com
Zakouma National Park, 2024.
www.privateguidedsafaris.com

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 PARTING SHOT
Turn the other cheek
Looking to the future? “At Ol Pejeta Conservancy in Laikipia, Kenya, we were
watching a few rhino, which were lying down. When this one stood up, instead of
looking at us, he turned his back on us. I thought it would be a comical photo.”
Photographed by subscriber Mandy Bell (Australia)

160 MAY-JULY 2023 TRAVEL AFRICA

A N E X C E P T I O N A L C O N S E R VAT I O N L E G A C Y
IT REMAINS A WILDERNESS. FOREVER

CONSERVATION RESEARCH COMMUNITY WILDLIFE ECONOMY

Contact Peter Anderson, Tel: +27 (82) 900 2024, peter@lapalala.com

Visit www.lapalala.com to download e-brochure

FINDING YOUR BL ANK SPOT ON THE MAP

 THE AUTHORITY ON
LUXURY AFRICAN TRAVEL

2023

AFRICA’S LEADING SAFARI COMPANY