16/7/2017 Thickening Surfactant Based Products | Prospector

Thickening Surfactant Based Products

Posted on October 30, 2015 by George Deckner

The viscosity of surfactant solutions is

normally dependent on the size of the
surfactant micelles, concentration of
surfactants, the type/ratio of the surfactant
used, temperature, and the micelle charge
density.

Most thickeners work by promoting the

formation of rod-like micelles by reducing
charge density or crosslinking micelles. The
Salt thickens by reducing micelle charge density, helping to
optimum choice depends on the specific promote the conversion of spherical micelles to rod-shaped
micelles.
needs of the formulation, which include clarity,
PH, ingredients to suspend, and the types of
surfactants/concentration used. Other considerations include cold processing, and natural or PEG-
free claims.

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An efficient system will normally use <2% thickener to achieve a functional viscosity of 5-10K cps
using a typical 12.5% alkyl sulfate/2.5% Cocamidopropyl Betaine surfactant system. When designing
a thickening system, try to use multifunctional ingredients that can provide additional benefits to the
formulation, and use combinations of ingredients that work by different mechanisms to improve
efficiency. Potential benefits of different classes of thickeners include:

• Liquid, cold processing with minimal mixing.

• Good low and high temperature viscosity and stability.
• Good fragrance solubilization.

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• Synergy with salt.

• Good formulation clarity.
• Help to increase foam/lather.
• Improved mildness.
• Suspend and stabilize particles.

Thickening Technologies for Surfactant Based Products

Salt

Salt thickens by reducing micelle charge density, helping to promote the conversion of spherical
micelles to rod-shaped micelles. Historically, sodium chloride has been used. However, divalent salts
like magnesium sulfate are more efficient if compatible in the formulation. Viscosity of salt-thickened
formulations decreases with increasing temperature and will not stabilize suspended particles. Using
too much salt (>2%) can also impact the clarity and cloud point of the formulation.

Polymers

Polymers are typically aqueous acrylate dispersions that work by crosslinking micelles. Cellulosic
ethers are also used.

Aqueous acrylate polymer dispersions are preferred due to their ease of use and synergy when
combined with salt. They are also excellent at suspending particles in formulations. Some examples
of polymeric thickeners include:

• Carbopol Aqua SF-2 (Acrylates Crosspolymer 4, 32% solids) by Lubrizol

• Rheomer 33 (Polyacrylate 33, 29% latex solids) by Solvay Novecare
• Eliclear 4U (Acrylates Copolymer) by Seppic
• Methocel 40-101 (Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose) by Dow Chemical

Polar Emollients/Low HLB Surfactants

Ingredients with a low HLB value like Laureth-3, Cocamide MEA and other polar lipids work by
promoting the formation of rod-like micelles. These micelles are flexible, branched structures, which
may entangle and dramatically increase viscosity.

Examples of polar emollients/low HLB surfactants include:

• Comperlan CMEA (Cocamide MEA) by BASF

• Hest GC818:(Glyceryl Isostearate, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) by Global Seven
• Stepan Mild-GCC (Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate) by Stepan Chemical

Nonionic Ethoxylated Surfactants

Nonionic ethoxylated surfactants work by cross linking micelles. Surfactants with more than 1

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hydrophobic tail are more efficient and can attach to multiple micelles, leading to an increase of
viscosity.

Some examples of nonionic ethoxylated surfactants include:

• Ethox NEBS-2 (Decyltetradeceth-200 Behenate) by Ethox

• Genapol LT (PEG-150 Polyglyceryl-2 Tristearate, Laureth-3, Dipropylene Glycol) by Clariant
• Dermothix 100 (Disteareth 100 IPDI) by Alzo

Amphoteric Surfactants

Sometimes referred to as secondary surfactants, amphoteric surfactants promote the formation of

rod-like micelles by reducing micelle charge density/repulsion. They also significantly improve
mildness, boost foam/lather, and synergistically work with salts to build viscosity.

Some examples of amphoteric surfactants include:

• Tego Betain F KB 5 (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) by Evonik.

• Mackam HPC-32L (Sodium Cocoamphoacetate) by Solvay Novecare
• Mackam LAB (Lauryl Betaine) by Solvay Novecare
• Amphosol CDB Special (Cetyl Betaine) by Stepan Chemical
• Macat LHS (Lauryl Hydroxysultaine) by Pilot Chemical

The views, opinions and technical analyses presented here are those of the author, and are not
necessarily those of UL, ULProspector.com or Knowledge.ULProspector.com. While the editors of
this site make every effort to verify the accuracy of its content, we assume no responsibility for errors
made by the author, editorial staff or any other contributor. All content is subject to copyright and may
not be reproduced without prior authorization from Prospector.

Filed Under: Personal Care & Cosmetics

Tagged With: Formulating Advice, processes

About George Deckner

George Deckner brings over 40 years of experience as a formulating
chemist to his role as a personal care and cosmetics industry expert at
Prospector. His rich professional background in innovative product
development, research, material science and exploratory formulation,
as well as a passion for developing products that make people’s lives
more comfortable and happy, inform the articles he writes for Knowledge.ULProspector.com.

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