REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE

2.0 Overview
This review is indispensable, as it will enable the reader to know the extent of work carried out
by other researchers on the field of applique in relation to rural and urban settlements in Ghana.
Substantial research have been conducted by researchers and students in the domain of applique
generally, but there seems to have been no literature on digital applique that has a direct link with
the rural and urban settlements in Ghana.

Books by African and European writers who touched on applique and its aspects relating to rural
and urban settlement in the framework of this research have been considered as sources of
references for the review. Other sources from online articles have equally been considered.

The review is thus worked into sub-headings which are: concepts on applique; types of applique;
computer integration in applique; digital applique; concepts on rural and urban settlement to
ensure better understanding of the topic.

2.1 Concepts on Applique

Applique is a textile art which involves sewing together fabrics in the form of patterns (either
printed or woven) onto a background fabric. This textile art is a decorative technique and as a
result helps to heighten the aesthetic quality of the fabric. It also provides an efficient way of
utilizing waste textile materials especially those which have been printed and woven after
serving their main purposes. Variety of patterns ranging from human figures, animal figurings,
geometric and abstract shapes and especially in depicting scenes where in this context rural and
urban settlement is considered.

McChesney (2014) asserts that applique is the name given to the decorative technique of sewing
fabric shapes to a background fabric of a different color and has been around in some form as
long as humans have been able to use a needle and thread.

Applique is defined by Marjorie (2005) as the means of applying a shape of fabric onto a
background fabric to make a pleasing design. Applique is used in quilt designs and for
embellishing apparel or other items for home decor.

According to Microsoft Encarta (2009), Applique refers to fabric pieces sewn on fabric. Shaped
pieces of fabric sewn on a foundation fabric to form a design or pattern.

Mutnick (2014) in his article on applique described the art as a decorative surface design
technique that adds dimension and texture to the background fabric.

These thoughts on applique are similar as it makes clear the kind of materials which are used for
Applique, which isthe fabric. It also emphasize on the fact that applique is used in improving the
aesthetic properties of the fabric used in combination with other fabrics but the last three
description on applique eliminate the means through which the fabric is mounted to the base or
background fabric.

It is also emphasized by Wise geek (2003-2013) that, Applique is a crafting technique in which
pieces of material are mounted to another base material. It is often used in quilting to create
bright and distinctive designs, and it may aslo be used to dress up clothing, or make unusual
placements and potholders.

This defination however widens the scope of applique as specifications to the kind of material
used for the textile art is silent or is not mentioned but does not rule out the decorative effect or
properties achieved after employing the technique.

Mohanty (1980) describes applique as a technique whose decorative effect is obtained by

superimposing patches of coloured fabric on a base fabric, the edges of the patches being sewn
on with some form of stitching. The applique technique has been adopted by people all over the
world to provide bold, brightly coloured, sometimes three – dimensional designs for used in
various situations.

Dupuis (2005) explains that applique essentially means to place a cut out decoration onto
another larger piece of material and affix it to that material.

These thoughts established by Mohanty and Dupuis focuses on the decorative effect created
after exploiting the applique art and also highlights that, the cut out or patch fabrics used must
have some form of decoration either coloured or patterned after which they are fixed onto the
background fabric.

In this regard the researchers personally consider applique in the following manner: ‘a textile art
where cut out shapes of fabrics either plain, coloured or patterned with decorations is fastened to
a larger piece of fabric through sewing.’ Applique generally consists of small and larger fabrics
where the larger fabric serve as the background fabric or support for the smaller ones.

2.2 Types of Applique

When the issue of applique types arises in the minds of people; immediate attention is drawn to
the different methods of appliqueing (how the cut out shapes are fastened to the base fabrics)
and the type of tool or equipment needed to carry out the named method. The different
techniques employed in making the art (applique) has even been expressed in diverse ways by
different writers.

Dupuis (2005) in explaining the techniques used in applique opined that ‘the technique used
depends on the textile used and the use of the finished product.’ The writer added that the cut
edges of wool, leather and other non-raveling materials should not be turned under when tacking
them down unlike fabrics which ravel like silk, linen and cotton where their cut edges have to be
turned down to prevent it from further fraying.

Susan (1994-2001) in her article on ‘applique basics’, opines that before the pattern pieces are
fixed to the background fabric, the pieces of fabric forming the design must be cut out and
prepared so that the raw edges are not exposed. She however continued to justify that there are
several methods used in preparing the design pieces and methods or techniques employed in
joining the pieces, either hand or machine, to which they are best suited. The preparation
methods and the method of joining the pieces as stated by the writer are outlined below.

Methods of preparing the design pieces

 Hand Basting (Hand or Machine Applique).

 Freezer Paper (Hand or Machine Applique).
 Wash-Away Stabilizer (Hand or Machine Applique).
 Fusible Web (Machine Applique).

Methods of joining the pieces through stitches.

Hand Applique

 Blind stitch
 Buttonhole stitch
 Needle Turn

Machine Applique

 Blind Stitch
 Satin Stitch
 Fancy Stitch

The writer further classified the following techniques as “Other Applique techniques”

 Reverse Applique
 Hawaiian Applique
 Shadow Applique
 Stained-Glass Applique
 Celtic Applique
 3-D/ Special Effects Applique

In another instance Majorie (2005:1-8) is of the view that Applique may be done by hand or by
machine and whether you choose to applique by hand or machine, preparation of the motifs is
quite similar. The methods for preparing the designs and the stitching techniques as explained by
the writer are summarized below:
Methods for Preparing the Applique design.

 Freezer Paper Applique

1. Wax side up
2. Wax side down
 Fusible Webbing

Methods of stitching

 Hand Stitching
1. Needle Turn Applique
2. Blanket Stitch Applique
 Machine Stitching
1. Straight Stitch
2. Satin Stitch
3. Blind Stitch
4. Blanket Stitch

Wikipedia (2014) asserts that applied pieces usually have their edges folded under, and are then
attached by any of the following:

 Straight stitch, typically 20-30mm in from the edge.

 Satin stitch, all around, overlapping the edge. The patch may be glued or straight stitched
on first to ensure positional stability and a neat edge.
 Reverse applique: several layers of material are stitched together, parts of the upper
layers are cut away, and the edges are stitched down.

In their article on the types of applique the site (AppliqueEmbroideryArt.com) explains that, it is
important to know as well that “types” refer to the method of stitching, and determining the types
of applique to work with will depend primarily on the fabric and the purpose of the item. The
types of applique base on the method of stitching are summarized below:

 Raw edged.
 Straight stitch or Flat stitch.
 Reverse stitch.
 Freezer Paper.
 Satin Stitch.
 Needle Turn Stich.
 Blind Stitch.
 Buttonhole Stitch.
Pertaining to the reviewed literatures it can be deduced that the way of stitching the fabrics
together plays an imperative role in applique notwithstanding the fact that the materials and tools
used forms the main framework for categorizing the art into different types. Applique from the
researchers perspective can generally be classified under hand and machine applique and this
stems from the fact that stitches forms a dominant feature in applique and the way of stitching
can be carried out either by hand or machine.

2.3 Computer integration in Applique