Professional Documents
Culture Documents
DOI: 10.1111/srt.12818
ORIGINAL ARTICLE
1
Department of Drug Sciences, University of
Pavia, Pavia, Italy Abstract
2
EticHub s.r.l., Academic Spin-off, University Background: Nowadays, nail care products are extremely important both in medical
of Pavia, Pavia, Italy
and cosmetic fields. Actually, there are only a very few “in vivo” methods to evaluate
Correspondence the safety and the efficacy of nail products.
Paola Perugini, Department of Drug
Methods: The new apparatus, based on a recently patented technology, is developed
Sciences, University of Pavia, Via Taramelli
12, 27100 Pavia, Italy. for the “in vivo” evaluation of nails in terms of thickness, structural firmness, flatten-
Email: paola.perugini@unipv.it
ing, and bending properties. The device analyzes nails by an “in vivo” non-invasive
methodology in a timely way and with high accuracy. The assessment of the resist-
ance to compression measures the cohesion of the nail matrix (nail firmness), while
the evaluation of the resistance to transversal deformation detects the elasticity of
the nail plate. Furthermore, the apparatus is able to assess the nail thickness and the
flexibility of their distal edge.
Results: The instrument provides nail thickness and several parameters reflecting
mechanical properties of nail plate: Viscoelasticity expressed as viscoelasticity index
(VI), structural strength/ firmness expressed as Firmness Index (FI), and viscoelastic-
ity of the distal edge expressed as Bending Index (BI).
Conclusions: The instruments described in this work represent an innovative appara-
tus for the safety and efficacy evaluation of nail products in several fields: cosmetics,
pharmaceuticals, and medical devices.
KEYWORDS
evaluation of nail alteration, indentometer, nail biomechanical properties, nail
characterization, nail elasticity, nail firmness, nails thickness
1 | I NTRO D U C TI O N The upper surface of the nail plate is free and in human societies
has always been a part of the body subjected to special attention,
Nails mainly consist of hardened and compacted keratin and have the decorated and treated for ornamental purposes, for example by col-
form of a roughly quadrangular, whitish-pink, and semitransparent oring with enamels, reconstruction or by superposing of artificial
plate, in which it is possible to distinguish a free distal edge, a central structures (artificial nails).
portion or nail body that has a small, whitish sickle-shaped zone at Furthermore, in the last years, a number of nail diseases have
the base, called the lunula or half-moon, two lateral edges inserted in increased causing significant social, psychological, and physical con-
a skin fold or nail groove, and a proximal portion, called root, deeply sequences; the patient pain has grown up together with a lot of new
and firmly embedded in the rear portion of the nail groove.1 medical treatments now available. 2-8
Skin Res Technol. 2019;00:1–9. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/srt © 2019 John Wiley & Sons A/S. 1 |
Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd
|
2 PERUGINI et al.
Topical treatment avoids adverse effects associated with sys- underline how nail lamina is submitted to several mechanical forces
temic therapy, thus improving patient compliance and reducing having a particularly pronounced effect both on nail configuration
treatment costs. and also in the development of some kind of nail deformities, like
However, the effectiveness of topical therapies is limited be- psoriasis and koilonychia.16,17
cause of the poor permeability of the lamina to the therapeutic The aim of the present work is to present an available and suit-
agents. able instrumentation able to perform mechanical characterization of
Research over the past decade has focused on improving trans- nails, to meet the need for qualitative and quantitative characteriza-
dermal permeability by chemical treatments, penetration enhancers, tion of treated and untreated nails, whether they are living nails, recon-
and mechanical and physical methods.9 structed or structures associated therewith such as artificial nail plates
In recent years, nail care products, which comprise enamels or or polymers for nail reconstruction or having decorative functions.
masks intended for the wellbeing of the nail plate and of the adjacent Another aim of this work is to set up procedures to carry out
parts, have become increasingly important in the market both in terms “in vivo” tests with non-invasive technique, intended to characterize
of medical treatment and associated cosmetic treatment. In fact, the nail plate and to assess safety and efficacy of pharmaceutical and
use of cosmetic enamels is widespread and understandable to cover cosmetic nail products.
the blemishes of nail abnormalities. It is necessary to underline that
the constant use of an inappropriate cosmetic formulation can seri-
ously compromise the effectiveness of medical treatment.10,11 2 | M ATE R I A L S A N D M E TH O DS
The increasing market has also enhanced the value of prop-
erties of cosmetic products, not only with regard to the areas of 2.1 | Apparatus description
application of the products themselves, but also with regard to
the effects attributed to the cosmetic product. In this connec- The apparatus Nail StrainStress Meter NM 100 (Courage &
tion, a standard covering cosmetic products has been introduced Khazaka), herewith below described is developed using a patented
at European level, (EC) regulation 1223/2009, which requires the technology specifically developed to study the stress-stain behav-
verification of the safety and efficacy requirements not closely ior of nails.18
correlated with the actual nature of the cosmetic product. The The system comprises test sites working on portions of both in
safety requirement stated by law is particularly important in the vitro and in vivo cutaneous appendages including a plurality of sup-
case of pathological conditions. ports adapted to work on a portion of nail or of the structures as-
For these purposes, it is fundamental to use validated instrumen- sociated therewith undergoing tests, configured to form supporting
tal methods able to verify such effects. In particular, to verify the and/or fulcrum surfaces for said samples with respect to a charac-
safety, effectiveness, and performance of a cosmetic formulation, terizing stress exerted on them. The system includes a correspond-
it is essential to develop suitable experimental designs performing ing plurality of stressing elements for applying and for measuring
“in vivo” evaluations, that is, in the real conditions of use, which may the intensity and duration of the stresses applied. The behavior of
take place over very different periods of time (from a few minutes a cutaneous appendage under test is continuously monitored by a
to months), depending on the kind of product and the functionalities digital image acquisition system (5 MPixel USB color camera, reso-
to be ascertained. lution: 2592 × 1994 Pixel). Furthermore, since the nail must be per-
Unfortunately, until now, only a few instrumentations were fectly horizontal and aligned with the supports, the digital camera
available for “in vivo” nail evaluation and therefore able to de- to monitoring analyses is essential. It is possible to have two digi-
termine the effect of the products. To solve this problem, sev- tal cameras on the instrument: The first one provides a lateral and
eral techniques have been proposed for the characterization of complete view of the profile of the analyzed nail and the second
keratin structure, like near-infrared fourier transform (NIR–FT) one, perpendicular to the first one, shoots the upper surface of the
Raman spectroscopy, attenuated total reflectance Fourier trans- nail. Both the cameras can work simultaneously, and the captured
form infrared (ATR–FTIR) spectroscopy or confocal laser scanning images are displayed in real time and simultaneously on a monitor.
microscopy (CLSM). Furthermore, NIR Raman spectroscopy and The device features a high precision force dosimeter. Special tips
transonychial water loss (TOWL) are extensively employed to can be driven automatically in steps down on the nail in a descent
quantify nail water content.12-15 rate range between 0.3 and 15 mm/min, and the force is constantly
On the contrary, only a very few studies have been performed on monitored. The tip is directly connected to a load cell; in that way,
mechanical properties of nails. In this context, it is very important to the load cell measures the force applied to the nail by the tip. In this
process, an electric signal is generated by the load cell and this signal 2.1.2 | Set 2
is opportunely transformed and converted by a dedicated software.
The morphological and deformation data are acquired in real time The second set is specifically designed to perform a compression test
throughout all the phases of a test protocol. The technical data of in order to study the structural strength/ firmness of the nail plate.
the instrument are reported in Table 1. In this set, the support is a cylinder cut obliquely, polished and
As soon as the head meets the nail, the force increases till the preset beveled to provide a smooth comfortable base for the bottom side
maximum value. The result is a curve of force and distance (force deflec- of the nail portion to be analyzed. The probe is a pin with the contact
tion diagram). All data can be saved and exported to Excel® or directly end flat and smooth (Figure 2). It is used to determine the behavior
elaborated by dedicated software. By the analysis of these data, inter- of the nails under crushing loads. Moving vertically at controlled and
esting information about mechanical properties of the nail is obtained. previously set speed, the probe gets in contact with the sample. In
The device is delivered with three different measurement sets that way, the specimen is compressed between the tip and the sup-
(Name: set 1, set 2, and set 3) for the assessment of different me- port and deformation at various loads is recorded.
chanical properties. Furthermore, the set 2 allows also to determine easily and ac-
The sets are easily and quickly replaceable. Each set consists of curately the thickness of the nail plate, expressed in microns, in the
two specific parts: The lower one (support), that provides a static analyzed point. In fact, the probe runs free before to get in contact
mechanical support to the lower side of the nail and the upper one with the sample surface and, because of the total probe path with-
(tip) moving vertically from a start position to the bottom toward the out sample is fixed, it is possible to calculate the thickness of the
upper side of the nail plate. The start position of the tip is adjusted sample by sottracting the position of touch between the probe and
to reduce the distance between the upper nail surface and the tip the nail surface from the total probe path by the following equation:
to run the shortest and quickest analysis. Furthermore, the descent
speed of the tip and the maximum strength value are adjustable and T = Tt − Pt
set up before the beginning of the analysis.
Where,
T = Thickness of the nail plate,
2.1.1 | Set 1 Tt = Total path of the probe (set at the beginning of the
experiment),
The first set is specifically designed to study the viscoelastic behav- Pt = Path of the probe to reach the nail surface (first force de-
ior of the nail plate under a force that produces a cross deformation tected when probe touch nail).
running a sort of three-point flexural test (Figure 1).
The specimen is supported on two precision-machined edges, and
load is applied at its midpoint. In this configuration, the lower part pro- 2.1.3 | Set 3
vides a couple of horizontal and parallel supports characterized by a
tapered and polished surface. Instead, the tip is a parallelepiped with a The third set performs a cantilever test: The action is provided by
rectangular base and rounded corners. The larger side of the cross-sec- a parallelepiped shaped probe with a rectangular section that pro-
tion of the tip is parallel to the supports, and it comes down centrally duced a longitudinal bending of the distal edge of the nail (Figure 3).
between them. The nail plate is deflected vertically. The specimen is
deformed, and resistance at various loads is recorded.
(A) (B)
(A) (B)
F I G U R E 1 A, Set 1 tip and support and B, positioning of nail in F I G U R E 2 A, Set 2 tip and support and B, positioning of nail in
set 1 set 2
|
4 PERUGINI et al.
(A) (B) Middle (R3, L3) and ring finger (R4, L4) nails of both right (R) and left
(L) hands were evaluated.
In order to guarantee accuracy and precision of the data, it is
required to follow these initial stages of preparation and evaluation
of the nail:
2.2 | In vivo nail evaluation The test protocol consists of subjecting the nail to a controlled de-
formation and measuring the force required to obtain the same, or,
In order to evaluate precision of the instrument data 18 healthy alternatively, quantifying the strain of the nail as a result of applica-
volunteers, females aged between 21 and 58 years were enrolled. tion of a predetermined force.
F I G U R E 4 Example of stress-strain
diagram obtained from mechanical
analyses
PERUGINI et al. |
5
TA B L E 2 Set specifications
Descent rate Mechanical
Set Step number (mm/min) Force (N) property Parameter
The test may be carried out both by choosing the right probe Figure 6 shows results of viscoelasticity index data obtained from all
related to the aim of the study and with monitoring load and strain subjects analyzing the middle and the ring fingers. Transversal defor-
applied into the study. In fact, using the different sets it is possible to mation always gives a good result with a highly reproducible slope
monitor different aspect of mechanical properties of nails. (standard deviation within the same subject is around 0.64 for at least
3 repetitions).
Statistical analysis performed using the Mann-Whitney t test, in
3.1.1 | In summary which a significance level of 5% was chosen, so changes were con-
sidered statistically significant for P < .05, permitted to highlight that
• Using the set 1, the nail is subjected to a transversal deformation. the only statistically difference was evident between R3 and L4 data
The slope of the curve gives information about the viscoelastic (P = .0302).
property of the nail plate.
TA B L E 3 Mean free edge length and curvature, expressed in
• Using the set 2, the nail is subjected to a compressive defor-
mm, and standard deviation of data collected from all volunteers.
mation. The slope of the curve gives information about the R = right hand; L = left hand; 3 = middle finger; 4 = ring finger
structural strength of the nail plate, this kind of analysis makes
possible an accurate determination of the nail thickness point Parameter R3 R4 L3 L4
The slope of the curve gives information about the elasticity of Curvature (mm) 8.09 7.85 7.97 7.60
(±1.543) (±1.454) (±1.376) (±1.455)
the distal edge (border) of the nail plate.
|
6 PERUGINI et al.
Figure 10 reports the mean Firmness index obtained on middle (3) fin-
ger, on right (R) and left (L) hands of 4 volunteers at three different force
intervals: 0-1N, 2-3N, and 3.5-5N. Results show clearly that Firmness
Index is different depending on the different forces applied in the study.
However, analyses obtained before and after different treatments
are extremely useful for evaluating the influence of specific treatment of
the sample. The results of firmness analyses carried out on 4 volunteers
by soaking nails in water for 10 minutes at 37°C are reported in Table 5.
F I G U R E 7 Mean viscoelasticity data and Standard deviation However, in all cases, the instrument is able to detect index varia-
obtained from ring right fingers (R4) tion after nail soaking in water for 10 minutes at 37°C (tw). These vari-
ations are ranging between 15% and 60% depending on fingernail.
This result can be justified from the fact that all volunteers were
right handed, so the R3 finger is more stressed thus presenting the
lower viscoelasticity value. 3.5 | Bending properties of plate distal edge
In order to evaluate the repeatability of the instruments over time,
3 subjects were analyzed twice in a week, at the beginning (t0) and Figure 11 shows Bending Index results obtained analyzing all fin-
after 6 days (t6d). Subjects were trained to not use nail products for gers of left (L) hand of 3 volunteers. A diagram representative of
the all test period. Results shown in Figure 7 highlighted that results the mean response of a cutaneous appendage to a longitudinal
are very reproducible with a percentage of variation of about 10%. bending stress.
F I G U R E 8 Scheme of different
positioning during analysis: A, center
position; B, left angled position; and C,
right angled position
PERUGINI et al. |
7
Age range R3 R4 L3 L4