USER

MANUAL

Be e r Bre w Au to ma tic™ Model 30 and 60

Brew your own beer. An all-in-one electric brewing system with an easy to use brew controller.
Mashing – Lautering – Boling in one kettle. Can hold up to 9Kg (model 30) or 16Kg (model 60) of malt.
Choose between brewing using either the malt basket or the false bottom.
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TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
CHAPTER 1
Safety instructions......................................................................................................................6

CHAPTER 2
Specifications.............................................................................................................................. 7

CHAPTER 3
The equipment............................................................................................................................8
3.1 All parts explained...............................................................................................................8
CHAPTER 4
Getting started.......................................................................................................................... 10
4.1 First time assembly........................................................................................................... 10
4.2 Before your first brew....................................................................................................... 11

CHAPTER 5
Using Beer Brew Automatic™................................................................................................... 11
5.1 About brewing beer, in general......................................................................................... 11
5.2 Understanding the Beer Brew Automatic™ brew controller........................................12
5.3 The brew controller display explained............................................................................. 13
5.4 Using the brew program selector ................................................................................... 14

CHAPTER 6
How to brew with Beer Brew Automatic™...................................................................................... 15
6.1 How to brew using the malt basket equipment setup.................................................. 15
6.2 How to brew: Using the false bottom equipment setup.............................................. 18
6.3 How to do multi step mashing..........................................................................................21
6.4 Whirlpool hopping with a hop-stand..............................................................................22
6.5 Fermenting and bottling or kegging your beer..............................................................22
CHAPTER 7
Water calculation......................................................................................................................23

CHAPTER 8
Cleaning and maintenance...................................................................................................... 24

CHAPTER 9
Brew log.....................................................................................................................................25

CHAPTER 10
All grain beer recipe examples..................................................................................................26

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 Chapter 1

SAFET Y INSTRUCTIONS
Read this user manual before using the Beer Brew Automatic™.

• Only connect to a wall outlet dimensioned to • During use, the surface temperature of the brew
handle the electric load of the equipment. kettle, pipes, lid and liquids can reach 100°C.
Handle with care.
• The handles on the brew kettle are designed for
• Do not start the pump without the lid hose or the
moving the brew kettle only when it is empty.
whirlpool pipe being connected to the riser pipe, to
avoid the liquid to flow outside the brew kettle.
• Always disconnect the power cord before cleaning,
if any fault occurs during use, when performing
• Do not dry run the pump.
maintenance, or during storage.
• Do not use the pump to circulate boiling liquid for
• If the power cord is damaged or there are any
more than 15 minutes, to avoid overheating the
malfunction of the electric parts or components,
pump.
you must contact your supplier before further use
of the equipment.
• Follow the procedure for cleaning and maintenance
after use, and before storing.
• If any of the other components are damaged
you should contact your supplier for repair or
• Ensure proper cleaning and removal of any burnt
replacement.
material in the boiler. Do not use any abrasive
device or chemicals that can scratch or damage the
• Do not immerse the base of the brew kettle in
stainless steel.
water.
• The warranty will not apply if the equipment
• Ensure that the brew kettle is placed on a flat
has been modified or used in any other way than
surface and is stable during use.
intended.
• Ensure proper handling when lifting the malt
basket during brewing. The weight of the malt
basket, including soaked malt can be up to 25 kg
for the model 30, and up to 45 kg for the model
60.

• Please note that the bottom part of the malt basket

can have some rough edges. Handle with care.

• Close the tap and riser pipe valve before pouring

any liquid into the brew kettle.

• Never switch the unit ON without any liquid in the

brew kettle.

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Chapter 2

S P E C I F I C AT I O N S

€ MODEL 30 MODEL 60

304 Stainless steel* 304 Stainless steel*

Material 0,6mm wall thickness 0,6mm wall thickness
Single wall Double wall

Weight w/ lid
w/ Malt basket = 8 kg w/ Malt basket = 14 kg
(ex cooler)

Outer dimensions Height = 650mm Height = 678mm

(with lid, ex handles) Diameter = 310mm Diameter = 420mm

Height = 493mm Height = 503mm

Inner dimensions
Diameter = 297mm Diameter = 401mm

Volume of boiler 34,3 litres 63,5 litres

Volume of malt basket 24,3 litres 41,5 litres

Maximum recommended Using Malt basket = 8 kg Using Malt basket = 15 kg

amount of malt when brewing Using False bottom = 9 kg Using False bottom = 16 kg

Magnetic pump 6 Watt, max 11l/min 6 Watt, max 11l/min

Power 230V ~ 50Hz 230V ~ 50Hz

Heating capacity 2500 Watt 3000 Watt

10mm inner dimension, 10mm inner dimension,

Immersion chiller
17,5 coils, 10,3m 17,5 coils, 16,3m

*Some fittings made of SS 316.

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 Chapter 3

T H E E Q U I PM E N T

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

1: Brew kettle
2: Lid
3: Malt basket
4: Bracket (for the malt basket)
5: False bottom
6: Whirlpool pipe
7: Immersion chiller

Note: The Beer Brew Automatic™, model 60 also includes a stainless steel mixing paddle.
When brewing you must decide whether you want to use either the malt basket or false bottom equipment setup. The brewing
techniques and the use of the brew controller are slightly different. The different equipment setup and techniques are described
later in this user manual.

3.1 - ALL PARTS EXPLAINED

1. Brew kettle with built in pump, riser pipe with CamLock

fitting, a valve, and a tap with ball valve:

The brew kettle is used during all phases of the brewing process,
from heating the water (for mashing), mashing, lautering, boiling
and cooling the wort that goes into the fermenting vessel.

The riser pipe valve is used to control the flow of water or wort
when using the pump. Turn valve handle horizontally to close
and vertically to open. The tap with a ball lock valve is used for
emptying the brew kettle for any liquid. Please note that the
handle can get hot.

To use the CamLock fittings, connect the lid hose female

Riser pipe valve and tap with ball valve

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CamLock fitting to the riser pipe male CamLock fitting and pull
both levers evenly to an upward position before switching on
the pump. After use and when the pump is switched off, pull
the lever rings downwards to unlock and release the CamLock
fittings.

Warning: never switch on the pump without first closing the

riser pipe valve and having either the lid on the brew kettle
and the lid hose or whirlpool pipe CamLock connected to
the riser pipe.

The brew kettle has a cover plate attached underneath, covering

the electronic components and the pump. This cover plate can
be removed by unscrewing the screws. This will give you access
to the pump for maintenance and cleaning.

2. Lid - Place the lid on the brew kettle during mashing in order
to retain the heat within the mash. With the lid hose connected
to the riser pipe, the pump can be used to circulate the wort Male and female CamLock fittings
during mashing and lautering.

TIP: The lid showerhead can also be used to evenly distribute the
water over the mash during sparging by connecting an external
water source to the lid hose.

The lid has an extra hole intended to be used in conjunction

with a thermometer. This allows for measuring the temperature
in the mash at the top of the kettle as the temperature here is
occasionally different from that on the bottom where the built-
in temperature sensor is located. CamLock closing procedure. Reverse to release.

3. Malt basket and 4. bracket / 5. false bottom:

Place either the malt basket or the false bottom inside the brew
kettle before adding water and malt.

You need to decide whether you will brew using either the malt
basket or the false bottom as the two procedures vary slightly.
You can read more about this later in this manual.

Tip: When placing the malt basket onto the bracket, align the
handles with the corners of the bracket. This prevents the malt
basket feet from getting in the way of the bracket steel bars.

Note: The Malt basket has an extra set of holes that can be
used for a lifting rig or winch.

6. Whirlpool pipe
You can connect the whirlpool pipe to the riser pipe CamLock
Malt basket, placed on bracket

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 fitting. When using the pump for cooling in conjunction with
the whirlpool pipe, you will get a rotating movement in the wort,
hence a quicker cooling of the wort.

The whirlpool effect can also be used for whirlpool hopping, or

with a hop-stand, i.e. circulating hops that has been added after
the boiling has ended. Read more about whirlpool hopping and
hop-stand later in this manual.

The whirlpool pipe should be connected to the riser pipe

CamLock when there is about 10 minutes left of the boiling
time. Switch on the pump and open the riser pipe valve. Allow
the pump to run with boiling wort. This will sanitise the pump,
the riser pipe and the whirlpool pipe.

Warning: Please note that some air may initially come out
of the whirlpool pipe, causing some splashing of boiling wort
in the brew kettle.

7: Immersion chiller
Insert the cooler into the brewing kettle while boiling wort and False bottom inside brew kettle
when there is about 10-15 minutes left of the boiling time. This
will sanitise the chiller pipe. Connect the cold water hose to the
bottom inlet and an another hose to the outlet. Do not open the
flow of cold water until after the boiling has finished, when you
want the cooling to start.

Warning: Be aware of warm water pouring out of the hose

during the first phase of cooling.

Chapter 4

GET TING
S TA R T E D Whirpool pipe connected to the riser pipe.
Immersion chiller placed inside the brew kettle.
4.1 - FIRST TIME ASSEMBLY
Attach a compression fitting to each end of the immersion
chiller pipe. This requires using 2x22 mm wrenches (not
included). Add the tap connectors to the fittings. Add the hose
quick connector to a hose, for example a regular garden hose.

Attach one compression fitting to the whirlpool pipe. 2x22 mm

wrenches required (not included).
Add the female CamLock connector to the fitting. Fittings for the immersion chiller

Note: Also required, but not included: Hose and hose

connector for your cold water tap.

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 4.2 - BEFORE YOUR FIRST BREW
Close the tap and riser pipe valve. Add about 5 litres of water to
the brew kettle.
• Check for any water leakage underneath the brew kettle or
around any of the fittings. If any water is found, check and
tighten fittings. Check that the gaskets are properly inserted.
Read instruction for pump maintenance (described later in
this user manual), and check silicone hose and fittings.
If there are no indications of any leakages, connect the lid hose
CamLock connector to the riser pipe, place the lid on top of the Fittings for the whirlpool pipe
boiler and connect the power cord to a wall outlet. The built-in
light in the brew program selector will now illuminate.
The brewing process mainly consist of three main phases:
Switch the brew program selector to “• • •” and press “ON”
Mashing, i.e. converting the starches in the crushed malt to
button on the brew controller. This will initiate heating of the
fermentable sugar. This will create the sweet, sugary liquid that
water to 100°C. Wait until the water is boiling, then open the
is called wort. Mashing time is normally 60 minutes, although
riser pipe valve before switching on the pump. Let the pump run
some prefer to mash up to 90 minutes.
for about 10 minutes in order to clean the equipment pipes and
pump.
Lautering can be divided into three different sub-processes:
• While the pump is running you should check for leakages Mashout (increase temperature in the mash to 78°C), to make
around fittings and tighten the fittings if required. the wort and sugar more fluid. Circulation of the wort, i.e.
drawing water from the bottom of the mash, adding it to the top
Stop the pump and close the riser pipe valve. Disconnect the lid
and at the same time using the mash to filter the wort. This is
hose and remove the lid. Attach the whirlpool pipe. Open the
also called Vorlauf (German), where the circulation contributes
valve and start the pump again. Let the pump run for another 5
to filter the wort, making it clearer. Sparging is adding hot water
minutes.
(about 78°C) to the mash, in order to extract the remaining
• Check for leakages around the whirlpool pipe fittings. Tighten sugar from mash into the wort. Lautering time is normally
the fittings if required. between 60 and 90 minutes, depending on the technique and
Connect hoses to the immersion cooler and connect one hose equipment setup.
end to a cold water tap. Place the other hose outlet in a drain
opening. Turn on the water. Boiling is done to allow the sulfur compounds in the wort to
evaporate, and also to achieve a hot break, causing the proteins
• Check for leakages around the cooler pipe fittings. Tighten to coagulate. During the boiling period, the hops are added to
the fittings if required. create the desired bitterness, hop flavour and aroma. Boiling
time is normally 60 minutes. If the malt grist contains pilsner
Chapter 5 malt the boiling time should be 90 minutes.

USING THE After the boil, the wort is cooled down before transferring it to
a fermentation vessel and adding the yeast. Check your yeast

BEER BREW
instruction to find pitching temperature (normally about 20°C)
and the optimal fermentation temperature.

AU T O M AT I C ™ When the fermentation is over the beer must be bottled or

This chapter will explain brewing in general, and how to use
the brew controller and the program selector switch during
brewing.
5.1 - ABOUT BREWING BEER
Brewing beer is all about converting the grain starches into
fermentable sugars. This user manual describes how to use
crushed malt (grain that has been malted, and then milled) as
the main ingredient to create a wort that is fermented, and
where the result is beer.
kegged. Remember to add priming sugar (normally between 5
and 10 grams per litre of beer, depending on the beer style),
for carbonating the beer, i.e. adding CO2 into the beer. Sugar
can also be added when kegging, unless you chose to add
carbonation to the beer in the keg using an external CO2
source. After a period of storage in room temperature, normally
2 weeks, the added sugar is fermented by the remaining yeast,
resulting in CO2 in the beer. After this period, the beer should
be stored cold, until you chose to consume it.
A good source for reading more about beer brewing is the book
“How to brew” by John Palmer. The 1st edition is available for free
at http://www.howtobrew.com/

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 5.2 - UNDERSTANDING THE BEER BREW AUTOMATIC™ BREW CONTROLLER
The Beer Brew Automatic™ has an easy to use built-in controller that has been designed to support the three phases of brewing, as
described earlier in this user manual. Each phase is completed by heating up and maintaining the temperature for a certain amount
of thime, and where each phase has a different function in the beer brewing process.

The phases are displayed as I (mashing), II (lautering) and III (boiling) in the brew controller display. Each phase has three
parameters that can be changed:
• Heating power (percent %)
• Target temperature (centigrades °C)
• Time (h:mm)

The brew controller has been pre-programmed with parameter values that is suitable for brewing using a single step mashing at
65°C, with the malt basket equipment setup. Each of the three phases have been set up with a duration of 60 minutes. This will be
suitable for most beer recipes where modern, well modified malts are used.

The brew controller parameter can be changed, allowing you to set different values of your choice, and according to the recipe. How
to change the parameters is described later in this user manual.

Starch conversion in the mash occurs between 55°C and 71°C. For most homebrewers, single step mashing should be performed in
the temperature range between about 63°C (more fermentable sugar, resulting in a dryer beer with a thinner body) and 68°C (less
fermentable sugar, resulting in more residual sugar and more body of the beer). The mashing temperature will normally be described
in the beer recipe.

Some brewers may want to do multi step mashing (mashing using several different temperature steps). This is possible to achieve,
but will require you to make manual adjustments to the strike and mashing temperature during the heating and mashing phase. How
to change the settings for this is described in a later chapter in this manual.

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9 2

8 3

7 4

6 5

5.3 - THE BREW CONTROLLER DISPLAY EXPLAINED

1. Current temperature reading, determined by a sensor
in the bottom of the brew kettle. Will display ambient
temperature whenever the power cord is connected.
2. Brew program ON and OFF button.
3. Heating power indicator. The display will show the
percentage, %, of the current power supplied to the heating
element.
4. SET mode. Press to enter the programming mode to
change settings. Press again to cycle to the next parameter.
5. Time indicator. The remaining time for the current brew
phase
6. Heating status. Animated symbol indicate that the heating
element is on or off.
7. Target temperature indicator. This will display the target
temperature for the current brew phase.
8. Settings, to reduce a value. Press once, repeatedly or hold
to change the chosen value.
9. Settings, to increase a value. Press once, repeatedly or hold
to change the chosen value.
10. Current brew phase indicator. The different phases are:
I = mashing
II = lautering
III = boiling
During brewing, the brew controller will give an audible signal
when a target temperature has been reached, and when it has
finished the countdown of a phase.
How to change the settings:
Almost all of the nine parameters can be changed at any time
during the brewing process. This means that you can change and
set new values for all the parameters in advance after you have
pressed the brew controller “ON” button.
The exception is the target strike/mash temperature for phase I.
The setting for the target strike temperature (the temperature
of the water, before adding the malt) can only be changed
during the heating phase and before the target temperature
has been reached. The target mash temperature can only be
changed after the target strike temperature has been reached,
and the mashing countdown has started.
To change setting, just press the SET button one or more times,
in order to switch from one parameter to the next (in the order
described below). The brew phase indicator will display the
phase (I, II or III) together with one of its three corresponding
parameters
The currently selected parameter will be flashing. Each
parameter value can be changed by pressing (or holding) the
+ or – button. After you have reached the desired value, press
SET again to jump to the next parameter. After two seconds of
no button activity, the brew controller will exit the programming
mode.
Note: Going into programming mode will NOT stop or pause
the ongoing brewing process.
Switching off the brew controller or unplugging the power cord
will cause the brew controller to revert to default values. It is
always required to press the brew controller “ON” button to
initiate the brew program after connecting the power cord, or
after regaining power in case of power loss.
If resuming the brewing process after a power failure it is
possible to switch on the brew controller and change the strike
temperature to the current temperature shown in the display, in
order to avoid overheating the wort or mash. Then change one
or more time parameter to 0 (zero) to skip ahead to where you
want to continue from.

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 If a power failure occurs during boiling, and when regaining
power you should set the program selector to position “• • •”
and then press the brew controller “ON” button again, for a
direct start of the boiling phase.
5.3 A - THE MASHING PHASE
Heating: the brew controller will start heating the water in the
brew kettle to the strike temperature. The power during heating
is 100%. This is not adjustable.
The strike temperature can only be changed during heating of
the mash water, until the strike temperature is reached.
• To change Strike temperature: Press SET until temperature
indicator is flashing.
default = 71°C (min = 30°C / max = 100°C)
• To change the settings for the mashing phase:
• Heating power: Press SET until heating power indicator is
flashing.
Default = 60% (min = 10% / max = 60%)
• Temperature: Press SET until target temperature indicator
is flashing
Default = 65°C (min = 30°C / max = 100°C)
• Time: Press SET until time indicator is flashing.
Default = 60 minutes (min 0 minutes / max = 120
minutes)
5.4 - USING THE BREW PROGRAM SELECTOR
The purpose of the program selector switch is to select the brew phases to be used when you brew using either the malt basket or
the false bottom. The built-in light in the switch will remain illuminated any time the power cord is connected to a wall outlet.
When using the malt basket equipment setup:
Turn the program selector to “•”. Now the brewing process,
using the brew controller will consist of three consecutive
phases: I (mashing), II (lautering) and III (boiling).
When using the false bottom equipment setup:
This brew process consists of 2 steps: First mashing and
lautering, then boiling as a separate phase.
First, turn the program selector to “• •” and press the brew
controller “ON” button to start brewing. After the lautering
has finised the brew program will stop automaticly after
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5.3 B - THE LAUTERING PHASE
Heating up to and maintaining the desired temperature in the
mash. The power used during the heating phase is the same as
the power used during the temperature maintenance period
• Heating power: Press SET until heating power indicator is
flashing.
Default = 60% (min = 10% / max = 100%)
• Temperature: Press SET until target temperature indicator
is flashing.
Default = 78°C (min = 50°C / max = 100°C)
• Time: Press SET until time indicator is flashing.
Default = 60 minutes (min 0 minutes / max = 180
minutes)
5.3 C - THE BOILING PHASE
Heating up to and maintaining the boiling temperature in the
wort during the boiling phase. The heating power during this
phase is 100% and cannot be changed. Once boiling the heating
power is automatically reduced to 80%.
• Heating power: Press SET until heating power indicator is
flashing.
Default = 80% (min = 10% / max = 100%)
• Temperature: Press SET until target temperature indicator
is flashing.
Default = 100°C (min = 78°C / max = 100°C)
• Time: Press SET until time indicator is flashing.
Default = 60 minutes (min 0 minutes / max = 180
minutes)
finishing counting down the time for this phase. Continue to
add spargewater over the mash until you have collected enough
wort. Then unplug the power cord, empty and clean the brew
kettle before you pour the wort back into the brew kettle.
When ready to start boling, plug the power cord back into the
wall outlet, turn the program selector to “• • •” and press the
brew controller “ON” button. This will start heating the wort to
100°C for boiling. The brew controller will count down the the
time for the boling phase, and then switche itself off when the
the program is finished.
Chapter 6
HOW TO BREW WITH
B E E R B R E W AU T O M AT I C ™
The Beer Brew Automatic™ comes with both a malt basket and
false bottom. You need to decide which to use during brewing, as
the techniques are slightly different.
Both inexperienced and experienced brewers may find brewing
using the malt basket the easiest and taking the least amount of
time. However, the malt basket can be too heavy to handle by
one person, and may require some lifting support.
Weight example:
• Beer Brew Automatic™, model 30: the malt basket with
7 kg of malt soaked in water will weigh about 26 kg
• Beer Brew Automatic™, model 60: the malt basket with
14 kg of malt soaked in water will weigh about 41 kg
Brewing using the false bottom will allow more malt to fit into
the brew kettle, hence the possibility to brew stronger beer.
This approach may also take a slightly longer time to finish. One
person will normally be able to handle the equipment alone,
without any additional help or lifting support, as the soaked malt
can removed from the brew kettle using a ladle, before cleaning
the brew kettle.
6.1 HOW TO BREW USING THE
MALT BASKET EQUIPMENT SETUP
On the day of brewing, start out
with preparing all equipment and
ingredients.
Calculate the water required for
brewing. You can read about this later
in this user manual.
Place your brew kettle on a stable
surface. Close both the riser pipe
valve and the tap valve, and fill
the brew kettle with the water for
mashing. Insert the malt basket into
the brew kettle. Place the lid on to the brew kettle and connect
the lid CamLock connector to the riser pipe.
Turn the brew program selector to “•” and press the “ON”
button to initiate the brew program. The display light will
illuminate, and the brew kettle will start heating up and continue
to heat until the target strike temperature has been reached.
You can now adjust the target strike temperature, if required.
Note: The target strike temperature is affected by several
variables: your target mash temperature, the amount of water,
the initial temperature of the dry grain and the weight and
material of your brew equipment. When the malt is at room
temperature, approximately 20°C, and you brew using 7 kg
malt with 19 litres of water (or 14 kg with 42 litres) expect
a drop of about 6°C in temperature, from the strike water
temperature of 71°C to 65°C in the mash, when adding the
malt to the water.
Tip: Search the internet using the phrase “mash infusion tool” or
“mash infusion calculator” if you want to find the target strike
temperature for your specific brew and mash temperature.
Phase I: Mashing:
When the target strike temperature has been reached there will
be an audible signal, the mash target temperature will change to
the default value of 65°C and the clock will start to count down.
You can now adjust the setting for the mashing phase, i.e. the
power heating level, the target temperature and the time.
Remove the lid and add the malt to the malt basket while
simultaneously stirring gently to avoid leaving any dry lumps of
malt. Stirring also ensures an even distribution of heat in the
mash. Place the lid back on afterwards.
You may now do a reading of the mash temperature.
Tip: If the temperature reading is lower than your target mashing
temperature, you can use the pump to circulate the water and even
out the temperature. Set the riser pipe valve in the halfway open
position and press the pump switch to turn on the pump.
Check the water level in the malt basket, and adjust the riser
pipe valve so that the water does not flow over the rim of the
malt basket as this can result in grain or grain particles entering
the pump and shower head.
Tip: If the temperature reading in the mash is too high: Add
some cold water to the mash. The temperature will even out when
circulating using the pump, as described above.
When you are satisfied with the temperature in the mash, the
pump should be switched off as it is not required to circulate as
part of the mashing phase. However, the pump can be used to
circulate if you experience a drop in temperature in the mash
15
 during the mashing phase or if you are performing a multi-step
mashing and want to increase the temperature to the next
temperature level.

TIP: If the flow of wort through the malt basket is slow you need to
reduce the flow through the pump by using the riser pipe valve. The
mash can be “stuck”, i.e. the mash is compressed near the bottom. It
can then sometimes help to gently stir the mash.

When the mashing phase is completed an audible signal will be

heard, and the next phase will start.

Phase II: Lautering:

After the mashing phase the brew controller will automatically
start heating the wort in the bottom of the brew kettle to 78°C.
This phase consist of two parts; circulation and sparging.

Tip: If you haven’t already adjusted the settings for this phase you
can do this now.
Circulation:
Now, while the lid is still on and the riser pipe valve is open:
start the pump and circulate during this phase. You will find that
the temperature in the mash will rise to the target lautering
temperature (mashout).
When the temperature is reached there will be a new audible
signal, and the countdown of the lautering phase will start.
Note: the heating to the boil phase now has started, and the
brew kettle surface and wort will get hot. The volume of the
wort will increase slightly when getting hotter. Normally about
3% when heating from 20°C to 100°C.
Phase III:
As mentioned earlier in this user manual, the brew controller will
start heating up the wort to a boil, trigger the audible signal, and
then boil for 60 minutes.

Continue to circulate for the rest of the lautering time, normally

60 minutes. When finished (after the audible signal), the next
phase will start.

Sparging:
Now, while the brew kettle is heating up to 100°C, you need
to perform the sparging, i.e. pour the sparge water over the
grain. First, switch off the pump and close the riser pipe valve.
Disconnect the lid CamLock from the riser pipe and remove the
lid.

Lift the malt basket and place it on the malt basket bracket.
Align the malt basket handle with one of the bracket corners
preventing the bracket from obstructing the feet underneath
the malt basket. The runoff of wort from the malt basket and
into the brew kettle will start.
Now pour the sparge water (pre-heated to about 78°C) slowly
over the mash in the grain basket. Wait until the runoff has
almost stopped and you have collected the desired amount of
wort. You should keep a clearance from the brew kettle rim of
about 5cm. Lift the malt basket off the bracket.
Remove the bracket. Place the malt basket somewhere where
the remaining wort can run off. Throw away the remaining wort
and malt later.
Tip: If you haven’t already adjusted the settings for this phase you
can do this now.
Note: The brew controller must reach 100°C before the
countdown of the boiling period will start. You may experience
that the controller temperature reading is 99°C for a long time.
It can sometime help to place the lid back on the brew kettle.
Be VERY careful if doing this, as the wort can boil over very
quickly. You can remove any foam (caused by proteins) that
is forming, to reduce the likelihood of the wort boiling over.
When the controller display indicates 100°C it will trigger an
audible signal, and start counting down the clock.

16
You will now normally add the first hop addition, bittering hops to
the boiling wort. The added hops can also result in the formation
of foam and subsequently an boil-over condition.
Tip: You can place a mixing paddle or something similar across the
top of the brew kettle as this can help break the tension of the foam
forming, hence reducing the likelihood of the wort boiling over.
The boil should be a “rolling boil”. You can adjust the brew
controller heating power setting for the boiling phase (III) to
achieve this. The default value is 80%. Increase to 90% or even
100% for a more vigorous boil, or reduce below 80% if the boil
is still too vigorous.
During the first 5-20 minutes of boiling a “hot break” will occur.
This is when the proteins in the wort clump together and sink to
the bottom. After a “hot break” the amount of foam will be less,
and there is a smaller risk of experiencing a boil-over condition.
Do NOT put the lid on during the boiling phase. During the
boiling of the wort some sulfur compounds (DMS) are formed,
and they are supposed to boil off. If they do not boil off, they
can cause unfavourable flavours and aroma in the beer such as
cabbage or corn.
It is normal to loose about 10 % of the wort volume during
boiling because of evaporation, depending on the boiling time,
how vigorous the wort is boiled and the air humidity.
Caution: Do not boil your wort indoor without proper
ventilation.
Add the rest of you hops and other ingredients to your boiling
wort, according to your recipe. Non-dissolvable ingredients,
such as lemon grass, orange peel or whole hop cones should be
placed in a hop bag or something similar. This is to prevent larger
objects to clog up the pump, pipes or tap.
With 15 minutes remaining of the boiling time, insert the
immersion chiller into the brew kettle. This will sanitize the
immersion chiller steel tubing. Start out by first connecting one
end of a garden hose style tubing to a cold water tap, and the
other end to the inlet of the immersion chiller. Then connect
another hose to the immersion chiller outlet. The open end of
the hose shall be placed in an open drain or in a sink.
With 5 minutes of the boiling time remaining, attach the
whirlpool pipe to the riser pipe. Open the riser pipe valve and
start the pump to sanitise the pump and pipes. Be aware of air
coming out of the whirlpool pipe as it can cause splashing of
boiling wort.
When the boiling process is complete, an audible signal will
sound and the brew controller will switch itself off.
Cooling:
With the immersion chiller already placed in the brew kettle,
open the cold water tap and allow cold water to flow through the
immersion chiller. The first water coming out of the chiller hose
will be hot, then gradually get colder as the wort gets colder.
The pump can continue to run, creating a whirpool movement in
the brew kettle. This movement of wort around the immersion
chiller pipe will contribute to even faster cooling. It is possible
to cool without the pump running, but the cooling time will
increase.
During cooling the clumped proteins and particles from the
hops will sink to the bottom. This process is called cold break,
and the mix is called trub. The trub can get into you pipe and
clog the pump preventing further circulation. If switching the
pump off and back on again does not solve the clogging problem,
switch off the pump and disconnect the whirlpool arm. Using the
hose from the lid, connect the hose to the riser pipe and blow
into the hose. This may move any stuck fragments or trub from
the pump and push it back into brew kettle. Be aware of any
splashing in the brew kettle caused by the air you blow into the
hose.
TIP: Please note that the temperature in the display will continue
to show the current temperature reading. With the sensor in the
bottom of the brew kettle covered by trub, the trub will function
as an insulator thus preventing the sensor from reading the actual
temperature in the wort. You may therefore use an external
thermometer to check the actual temperature of the wort.
Note: anything coming in contact with the wort when its
temperature is less than 70°C should first be sanitised.
Continue to cool down the wort until its temperature reaches
your yeast pitching temperature, normally 25°C (check the
recommendation for your yeast or recipe). You can now switch
off the pump. Open the tap ball valve to transfer the wort
into you fermenting vessel. Add the yeast to your wort. Close
the fermenting vessel and add an air-lock. Remember to add
some water to air-lock. Shake the fermenting vessel to mix
oxygen into the wort. Leave the wort to ferment at the desired
temperature.
You can read more about the bottling and kegging process later
in this user manual.
Note: Although debated, getting trub into your fermenting
vessel will normally not cause any unfavourable flavor or aroma
to your finished beer. Trub will sink to the bottom together
with most of the yeast after the fermentation has finished.
Tip: Add some water to the air-lock before using.
You have now finished brewing and it is time to empty and clean
17
 all the equipment. Follow the procedure for this described later
in this user manual.

6.2 - HOW TO BREW: USING THE

FALSE BOTTOM EQUIPMENT SETUP

On the day of brewing, start out with preparing all equipment

and ingredients.

Calculate the water required for brewing. You can read about
this later in this user manual.

Place your brew kettle on a stable surface. Close both the riser
pipe valve and the tap valve, and fill the brew kettle with the
water for mashing. Insert the malt basket into the brew kettle.
Place the lid on to the brew kettle and connect the lid CamLock
connector to the riser pipe.
Tip: If the temperature reading is lower than your target mashing
Turn the brew program selector to “• •” and press the “ON” temperature, you can use the pump to circulate the water and even
button to initiate the brew program. The display light will out the temperature. Set the riser pipe valve in the halfway open
illuminate, and the brew kettle will start heating up and continue position and press the pump switch to turn on the pump. Check the
until the target strike temperature has been reached. water level in the malt basket, and adjust the riser pipe valve so that
the water does not flow over the rim of the malt basket as this can
result in grain or grain particles entering the pump and shower head.
Tip: You can now adjust the target strike temperature, if required.

Note: The target strike temperature is affected by several Tip: If the temperature reading in the mash is too high: Add
variables: your target mash temperature, the amount of water, some cold water to the mash. The temperature will even out when
the initial temperature of the dry grain and the weight and circulating using the pump, as described above.
material of your brew equipment. When the malt is at room
temperature, approximately 20°C, and you brew using 7 kg
When you are satisfied with the temperature in the mash, the
malt with 19 litres of water (or 14 kg with 42 litres) expect
pump should be switched off as it is not required to circulate as
a drop of about 6°C in temperature, from the strike water
part of the mashing phase. However, the pump can be used to
temperature of 71°C to 65°C in the mash, when adding the
circulate if you experience a drop in temperature in the mash
malt to the water.
during the mashing phase or if you are performing a multi-step
mashing and want to increase the temperature to the next
Tip: Search the internet using the phrase “mash infusion tool” or temperature level.
“mash infusion calculator” if you want to find the target strike
temperature for your specific brew and mash temperature.

Phase I: Mashing:
When the target strike temperature has been reached there will
be an audible signal, the mash target temperature will change to
the default value of 65°C and the clock will start to count down.

Note: You can now adjust the setting for the mashing phase,
i.e. the power heating level, the target temperature and the
time.

Remove the lid and add the malt to the brew kettle while gently
stirring to avoid leaving any dry lumps of malt and at the same time
make an even distribution of heat in the mash. Place the lid back on
finished stirring. You may now do a reading of the mash temperature.

18
TIP: If the flow of wort through the false bottom is slow you need to
reduce the flow through the pump by using the riser pipe valve. This
may be caused by the e mash can begetting “stuck”, i.e. the mash is
compressed near the bottom. It can then sometimes help to gently
stir the mash.
When the mashing phase is completed an audible signal will be
heard, and the next phase will start.
Phase II: Lautering:
After the mashing phase the brew controller will automatically
start heating the wort in the bottom of the brew kettle to 78°C.
This phase consist of two parts; circulation and sparging.
Tip: If you haven’t already adjusted the settings for this phase you
can do this now.
Circulation:
Now, while the lid is still on and the riser pipe valve is open:
start the pump and circulate during this phase. You will find that
the temperature in the mash will rise to the target lautering
temperature (mashout).
When the temperature is reached there will be a new audible
signal, and the countdown of the lautering phase will start.
Note: The default time setting for phase II is 60 minutes. The
time value for this phase should be reduced to 15 minutes when
using the false bottom, as the circulation can stop when the
temperature in the mash has reached 78°C (mashout). Please
note that the lautering phase will continue with sparging, even
after the brew controller has finished and switched itself off.
Sparging:
Now, when the brew controller has finished and turned itself off,
you need to switch off the pump and close the riser pipe valve.
Disconnect the lid CamLock from the riser pipe and remove the
lid.
It is now time to add fresh, hot water of holding 78°C (sparge
water) to the mash, and at the same time runoff of wort from
the brew kettle.
First, place a bucket under the brew kettle tap and open adjust
the tap ball valve to, about apporoximately 25% of maximum
opening. The tap opening should be adjusted so that the runoff
amount is 20 litres pr. 30 minutes.
Tip: It is suggested that you use at least two or morefermenting
buckets that each can hold 15 to 20 litres each, enough for your
desired pre-boil volume.
Next, slowly pour the pre-heated sparge water (about
approximately 78°C) over the mash. Try to pour at a speed
that will maintain 2-3 cm of water above the grain, for an even
pressure across the grain bed.
This method is called continuous sparge, and is considered the
most efficient way of extracting sugar from the mash.
Tip: You can use the brew kettle lid and the shower head as a “sparge
head” to distribute the sparge water over the mash. Connect the lid
hose to your water heater or other source holding the sparge water.
Note: It is adviced that you don’t stir the mash during sparging
as this may allow more tannins and grain particles to make
its way into the wort. But at the same time, the sparge water
running through the mash can form “tunnels”, causing less
sugar to be washed out of the mash. If you do chose to stir, only
stir gently a few times, and do not stir all the way to the bottom
of your mash.
Stop sparging and close the tap ball valve when you have
collected the desired amount of wort, normally about 30 litres
(using the model 30) or 60 litres (using model 60). Read more
about this in the chapter “Water calculation”.
You now need to disconnect the power cord and empty the brew
kettle. Remove the mash, for example by using a ladle, then
remove the false bottom and rinse out the remaining wort and
mash by using warm water only. Use a soft brush if necessary.
Phase III:
Place the brew kettle back on a stable surface and connect
the power cord to the wall outlet. Do not put the false bottom
back into the brew kettle. Pour the wort back into brew kettle.
You should keep a clearance from the brew kettle rim of about
five cm. If you fill up the brew kettle more than above this level,
there is a high risk of a boil-over. You should also remember
that the wort will increase in volume by approximately 3 % when
heated from a temperature of 20°C to boiling temperature.
Turn the brew program selector to “• • •” and press the “ON”
button to initiate the brew program. The display light will
illuminate, and the brew kettle will start heating and continue
until the target boil temperature (100°C) has been reached.
19
 Tip: If you haven’t already adjusted the settings for this phase you
can do this now.
Note: The brew controller must reach 100°C before the
countdown of the boiling period will start. You may experience
that the controller temperature reading is 99°C for a long
time. It can sometime help to place the lid back on. Be VERY
careful if doing this, as the wort can boil over very quickly. You
can remove any foam (caused by proteins) that is forming,
to reduce the likelihood of the wort boiling over. When the
controller display indicates 100°C it will trigger an audible
signal, and start counting down the clock.
You will now normally add the first hop addition, bittering hops to
the boiling wort. The added hops can also result in the formation
of foam and subsequently an boil-over condition.
Tip: You can place a mixing paddle or something similar across the
top of the brew kettle as this can help break the tension of the foam
forming, hence reducing the likelihood of the wort boiling over.
The boil should be a “rolling boil”. You can adjust the brew
controller heating power setting for the boiling phase (III) to
achieve this. The default value is 80%. Increase to 90% or 100%
for a more vigorous boil, or reduce below 80% if he boil is still
too vigorous.
During the first 5-20 minutes of boiling a “hot break” will occur.
This is when the proteins in the wort will clump together and
sink to the bottom. After a “hot break” the amount of foam will
be less, and there is a smaller risk of experiencing a boil-over
condition.
Do NOT place the lid back on during the boiling phase. During
the boiling of the wort some sulfur compounds (DMS) are
formed, and they are supposed to boil off. If they do not boil off,
they can add unfavourable flavours and aroma in the beer such
as cabbage or corn.
It is normal to loose about 10 % of the wort volume during
boiling, depending on the boiling time, how vigorous the wort is
boiled and the air humidity.
Caution: Do not boil your wort indoor without proper
ventilation.
Add the rest of you hops and other ingredients to your boiling
wort, according to your recipe. Non-dissolvable ingredients,
such as lemon grass, orange peel or whole hop cones should be
placed in a hop bag or something similar. This is to prevent larger
objects to clog up the pump, pipes or tap.
With 15 minutes remaining of the boiling time, insert the
immersion chiller into the brew kettle. This will sanitize the
20
immersion chiller steel tubing. Start out by first connecting one
end of a garden hose style tubing to a cold water tap, and the
other end to the inlet of the immersion chiller. Then connect
another hose to the immersion chiller outlet. The open end of
the hose shall be placed in an open drain or in a sink.
With 5 minutes of the boiling time remaining, attach the
whirlpool pipe to the riser pipe. Open the riser pipe valve and
start the pump to sanitise the pump and pipes. Be aware of air
coming out of the whirlpool pipe as it can cause splashing of
boiling wort.
When the boiling process is complete, an audible signal will
sound and the brew controller will switch itself off.
Cooling:
With the immersion chiller already placed in the brew kettle,
open the cold water tap and allow cold water to flow through the
immersion chiller. The first water coming out of the chiller hose
will be hot, then gradually get colder as the wort gets colder.
The pump can continue to run, creating a whirpool movement in
the brew kettle. This movement of wort around the immersion
chiller pipe will contribute to even faster cooling. It is possible
to cool without the pump running, but the cooling time will
increase.
During cooling the clumped proteins and particles from the
hops will sink to the bottom. This process is called cold break,
and the mix is called trub. The trub can get into you pipe and
clog the pump preventing further circulation. If switching the
pump off and back on again does not solve the clogging problem,
switch off the pump and disconnect the whirlpool arm. Using the
hose from the lid, connect the hose to the riser pipe and blow
into the hose. This may move any stuck fragments or trub from
the pump and push it back into brew kettle. Be aware of any
splashing in the brew kettle caused by the air you blow into the
hose.
TIP: Please note that the temperature in the display will continue
to show the current temperature reading. With the sensor in the
bottom of the brew kettle covered by trub, the trub will function
as an insulator thus preventing the sensor from reading the actual
temperature in the wort. You may therefore use an external
thermometer to check the actual temperature of the wort.
Note: anything coming in contact with the wort when its
temperature is less than 70°C should first be sanitised.
Continue to cool down the wort until its temperature reaches
your yeast pitching temperature, normally 25°C (check the
recommendation for your yeast or recipe). You can now switch
off the pump. Open the tap ball valve to transfer the wort into
you fermenting vessel. Add the yeast to your wort. Close the
fermenting vessel and add an air-lock. Remember to add some
water to air-lock. Shake the fermenting vessel to mix oxygen into
the wort. Leave the wort to ferment at the desired temperature.
You can read more about the bottling and kegging process later
in this user manual.
Note: Although debated, getting trub into your fermenting
vessel will normally not cause any unfavourable flavor or aroma
to your finished beer. Trub will sink to the bottom together
with most of the yeast after the fermentation has finished.
6.3 - HOW TO DO MULTI STEP MASHING
The Beer Brew Automatic™ brew controller is designed with
simplicity in mind, and for supporting single step mashing.
Single step mashing is used in most recipes and for the most
types of malt. Today, the malting process will produce the
required enzymes in the malt that will convert the starches to
fermentable sugar during a single step mashing.
But, multi step mashing is preferred by some brewers. Step
mashing is also required for some types of malt, for example
unmalted wheat. Multi step mashing is mashing at different
temperature stages, starting with a low temperature, the
increase and hold the temperature for some time for each step
before continuing.
Examples of multi step mashing steps with their formal name
and description:
• Phytase (30-53°C) – Lowers the pH of the mash slightly.
Lowering the mash pH has a number of benefits, though
a Phytase is rarely used by modern brewers, as there are
alternate ways to control mash pH.
• Debranching (35-44°C) – Helps to increase the solubility
of starches resulting in increased extraction for certain
malts.
• Beta Glucanese (35-45°C) – Breaks down the gummy
heavy starches which can help improve stability and
extraction, particularly for mashes high in proteins and
adjuncts such as wheat.
• Peptidase (45-53°C) – Produces free amino nitrogen
which can aid in fermentation.
• Proteinase (50-59°C) – breaks down long chain proteins
to shorter proteins. Beneficial for the body and foam
retention in the beer. Reduced haze.
• Beta-amylase (55-66°C) – starch conversion producing
maltose, which ferments well and produces a dyer beer with
a thinner body.
• Alpha-amylase (66-71°C) – starch conversion producing
less fermentable sugar causing the beer to be more full-
bodied and with a malt sweetness.
A typical multi-step mashing for a pilsner style beer could be:
• 45°C for 15 minutes
• 60°C for 15 minutes
• 66°C for 30 minutes
followed by a 75°C, 5 minutes of mashout, however, the mashout
is here included as part of the lautering phase when using the brew
Tip: Add some water to the air-lock before using.
You have now finished brewing and it is time to empty and clean
all the equipment. Follow the procedure for this described later
in this user manual.
controller as described earlier in this user manual.
The mashing described here will take about 90 minutes if we
estimate a 15 minutes temperature rise time between each step.
To use the brew controller to support this multi-step mashing
you need to perform the following:
• Set up the equipment according to description earlier in
this user manual.
• Add the water for mashing.
• Calculate your target strike water temperature. In this
example 48°C is used.
• Switch on the brew controller
• Adjust the target strike temperature to 49°C.
• Adjust the mash time to 90 minutes, i.e.the total mash
time, including the estimated temperature rise time
between each step.
• When target strike temperature is reached, adjust the mash
temperature to 45°C.
• Mash in and put the lid on, connect the lid hose CamLock
connector to the riser pipe. Turn the riser pipe valve halfway
open and start the pump to circulate the water over the top
of the mash.
• After 15 minutes mash time (75 minutes remaining), adjust
the mash temperature to 60°C. Wait until the temperature
in the mash reach 60°C.
• After another 15 minutes mash time (55 minutes
remaining), adjust the mash temperature to 66°C. Wait
until the temperature in the mash reach 66°C.
• After 30 minutes of the remaining mashing time, the mash
phase should be over, and the next phase, with mashout will
start.
Note: you may need to, and can, extend or shorten the mash
time any time during the mashing phase depending on how
long time it takes to mash in, and to rise the temperature
between each step.
Sources:
http://howtobrew.com/book/section-3/how-the-mash-works/
Beersmith.com blog 2013/08/02 “Multi vs Singel Step mashing
for home brewing”
BYO.com article 2008 Jan/Feb: “The science of Step mashing”
21
 6.4 - WHIRLPOOL HOPPING
WITH A HOP-STAND
The Beer Brew Automatic™ is equipped with a whirlpool pipe
used for cooling of the wort. This whirlpool effect can be used
for whirpool hopping with a hop-stand.
Whirpool hopping with a hop-stand is a method for utilizing the
hops to increase flavour, and to some extent the aroma, in your
beer. This technique is mostly used for hop-rich beer styles, like
pale ales, especially American Pale Ales (APA) and India Pale
Ales (IPA).
Please note that not all hops are suited for this type of hopping.
You should look for hops with high level of mycrene and
humulene oils. Whirlpool hopping will also contribute to some
bitterness, and this should be taken into consideration when
you calculate the amount of bittering hop in your recipe.
Late hop addition, after the boiling has ended has many names:
0 minutes, whirlpool hopping, hop-stand, flameout, knock-out
hopping etc. They all essentially mean the same: adding hops
after the boil has ended, while whirlpooling, and before the
temperature in the wort drops below 60°C. As the cooling will
occur very fast in the beginning, it is normal to stop the cooling
at the desired temperature, and then wait a period before
continuing to cool.
The recommended temperature stand for the hops is around
82°C, with a hop stand time between 15 and 60 minutes.
The process is to start cooling of the wort, as described earlier
in this user manual. When the temperature in the wort has
dropped to you preferred temperature, close the cold water
tap to stop cooling. Add the hops and wait, then continue the
cooling as normal.
Note: The cooling will be very fast for the first few minutes.
You should also expect the temperature to drop further, after
you close the cold water tap. This is because of the cold water
remaining in the cooler.
It is suggested that you turn off the cold water tap when the
temperature in the wort is about 90°C, and then wait until the
temperature in the wort gets down to around 82°C before you
add the hops.
Note: Many brewers have learned that cooling should be
performed as quickly as possible. The reason is that some sulfur
compounds (DMS) can form, causing unfavourable flavours.
Quick cooling also contributes to the cold break. But at the
same time many professional breweries are using whirpooling
and the hop stand technique to make better beer. As a home
brewer, you should not be too worried about trying to use the
hop stand technique.
22
Tip: If you want to increase the aroma in your beer, you can also
use dry hopping. This is when you add hops to your beer in the
fermenting vessel, a few days after the fermentation has started.
Dry hopping is normally mentioned as part your beer recipe. The dry
hopping technique is not described further in the user manual.
6.5 - FERMENTING AND BOTTLING
OR KEGGING YOUR BEER
This user manual is addressing the use of the Beer Brew
Automatic™ equipment. It is not meant to be a complete
manual for the entire beer making process.
But a few tips, based on the typical support questions we get
from the users of our equipment:
Fermentation temperature: Consult the yeast data sheet or the
beer recipe for the recommended fermentation temperature.
As a rule of thumb: bottom-fermenting yeast (yeast for lager)
will ferment at 12°C, while top-fermenting yeast (yeast for ale
style) will ferment at around 20°C.
Fermentation time: Here is a rule of thumb: When the SG
(Specific Gravity) reading has been the same over a three-day
period, the beer has normally finished fermenting. For bottom-
fermenting yeast (lager beer) the fermentation can take up to a
month, while top-fermenting yeast (ale) will finish after a week
or two.
Bottling the beer: When the beer has finished fermenting it
is time to bottle the beer. Remember to sanitise everything
coming in contact with the beer, and do not splash or mix in
oxygen, as this can damage the beer. You can move the beer
over to an empty, clean fermenting vessel, using a siphon.
Then add priming sugar (regular, white sugar) to the beer, while
stirring gently. The sugar should first be boiled with 2-3 cups of
water, then cooled to about 20°C. The amount of sugar required
is usually between 5 to 10 gram per litre of beer, depending on
the beer style. Store the bottles in room temperature for about
two weeks allowing the CO2 to develop in the bottle.
You can use the same approach when kegging your beer, but it is
recommended to use slightly less sugar.
Calculating the alcohol content: When the wort has cooled to
20°C you should perform a gravity reading using a hydrometer
or something similar. This reading is called Original Gravity (OG)
and is an expression of how much sugar there is in the wort. This
number will normally range from 1.040 and upwards. When the
fermentation has finished you should again make a reading using
a hydrometer. This reading is called Final Gravity (FG). The
number here is normally between 1.000 and 1.020.
The formula to calculate the alcohol content is:
x% = (OG – FG) / 7,5
You should be aware that there a lot of factors causing deviation
from the expected FG. To mention some: The mashing time and
temperature, the lautering, the yeast type, the age and amount
of the yeast, the yeast pitching temperature and the fermenting
temperature. Our best advice to you is that you allow the yeast
Chapter 7
WAT E R C A L C U L AT I O N
Before you start to calculate the required amount of water or
wort you need to know:
• The total grain weight
• The desired amount of wort to ferment
Your recipe is usually tailored to a specific amount of litres of
wort going into the fermenting vessel.
Mash water calculation:
A rule of thumb is to use about 2,8 litres of water pr. kg of malt.
We also need to take into account the volume under the false
bottom or outside the malt pipe. When brewing with the Beer
Brew Automatic™ you should use the following formula:
Formula for model 30:
Use this formula both when brewing with either the malt basket
or the false bottom.
(Grain weight in kg x 2) + 5 =
The amount of mash water, in litres.
Here both the value of 2 and 5 are fixed numbers.
Example brewing with 7 kg of malt:
(7 x 2) + 5 = 19 litres of water
Formula for model 60:
Use this formula when brewing with the malt basket.
(Grain weight in kg x 2,5) + 7 =
The amount of mash water, in litres.
Here both the value of 2,5 and 7 are fixed numbers.
Example brewing with 12 kg of malt:
(12 x 2,5) + 7 = 37 litres of water
Formula for model 60:
Use this formula when brewing with the false bottom.
(Grain weight in kg x 2,3) + 5 =
The amount of mash water, in litres.
Here both the value of 2,3 and 5 are fixed numbers.
Example brewing with 12 kg of malt:
(12 x 2,3) + 5 = 32,6 litres of water
to finish fermenting. Most often it will be a drinkable beer. Keep
a journal or log, and learn from your mistakes. Read books and
online sources, and improve the next time you brew.
Calculating the pre-boil amount
Before you can calculate the amount of sparge-water required,
you need to calculate the amount of wort needed at the start of
the boil.
A quick estimation:
Model 30: You need about 30 litres pre-boil to get 25 litres into
the fermenter (loss is about 5 litres).
Model 60: You need about 60 litres pre-boil to get 50 litres
into the fermenter (loss is about 10 litres).
Explanation to amount lost:
You will lose a certain amount of liquid during the boiling and
cooling process:
• Volume lost during boiling due to evaporation, normally at
10% pr hour.
• Volume lost due to shrinkage during cooling of the wort
from 100°C to 20°C, normally at 3%.
• Volume lost due to trub formed in the bottom of the brew
kettle during boiling and cooling, from 2 to 5 litres (or
more), depending on your recipe.
Sparge water calculation:
Use the following formula, by using the previously calculated
numbers:
Preboil amount + grain weight (kg) – mash water amount =
The sparge water amount, in litres.
Note: Volume lost due to grain absorption is approximately 1
litre pr. kg of grain.
Example: a 7 kg recipe designed for 25 litres with 30 litres
preboil volume, and where the mash water amount is 19 litres:
30 + 7 – 19 = 18 litres of sparge water
Note: If your recipe is designed for a lower amount being
fermented, you need to adjust your pre-boil volume
accordingly.
Tip: A certain amount is lost after the fermentation has finished,
due to yeast flocculation. Normally, this will be equal to 1-2 litres in
a 25 litres fermenting vessel.
23
Chapter 8

C L E A N I N G A N D
M AINTENANCE
Cleaning your Beer Brew Automatic™ after use: properly attached before tightening the screws. Ensure that
After use you should empty the brew kettle of any remaining both ground cables are attached to the fastening screw (4).
trub. Use warm water and a soft kitchen brush only to gently
clean the equipment. You can also use a PBW cleaner to soften 4
any burnt material in the bottom of the brew kettle.

Add about 5 litres of water, switch the brew program selector

to “lll”, and press “On” on the brew controller display. Connect
the whirlpool arm. When the water is boiling, open the riser pipe
valve and switch on the pump and let it run for about 5 minutes
in order to clean the equipment pipes and pump, then switch the
equipment off. Empty the brew kettle, dry of the equipment and
store until your next brewing session.

Note: do not use a hard brush as it can create scratch marks on

the equipment surfaces.
1 2 3

Warning: Do not submerge the base of the brew

kettle in water.

Cleaning the pump:

Sometimes some material can get into the pump, preventing
the impeller inside the pump front casing from running. In case
of clogging you may need to take the pump out for manual
cleaning.

Ensure that the Beer Brew Automatic™ is empty and cooled

down to approximately room temperature. Disconnect the
power cord from the wall outlet and place the brew kettle upside
down.

Remove the screws holding the bottom cover plate, using a

Phillips screwdriver.
Disconnect the power cord quick connector (1). Loosen the two
hose clamps (2 and 3) and remove the hoses from the pump.
Unscrew the screw attaching the 2 ground cables (4). Loosen 5
the 2 screws holding the pump bracket (5). You can now remove
the pump.

To access the impeller you need to unscrew the screws holding

the pump front casing. Lift the front casing off to clean it on the
inside. The impeller, the impeller shaft and the O-ring should
also be removed for cleaning.

Use the procedure for removing but in reverse order to

assemble all parts. Ensure that all parts in the pump housing are

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Chapter 9

BREW LOG
Brew name:
Batch number: Original Gravity (OG):
Brew date: Final Gravity (FG):
Malt temperature: In fermenter, amount (L):
Water strike temp: Finished beer, amount (L):
Mash temperature: Bottling date:

Calculate the alcohol content:

Formula: (OG-FG) / 7,5 = alc % ABV ( - ) / 7,5 =
Add 0,06% pr gram sugar pr litre beer used for carbonation + x 0,06 =
Total alcohol = % ABV
Example: (1055 - 1010) / 7,5 = 6,0
+ 5g * 0,06 = 0,3
Total alcohol = 6,3 % ABV

Calculate the required amount of mash water:

Model 30: (grain weight in kg x 2) + 5 ( x2)+5 = L
Model 60, using malt basket: (grain weight in kg x 2,5) + 7 ( x 2,5 ) + 7 = L
Model 60, using false bottom: (grain weight in kg x 2,3 ) + 5 ( x 2,3 ) + 5 = L

Example: ( 7 kg x 2 ) + 5 = 19 litres of water, for mashing

Calculate the required amount of sparge water: + - = L

Formula: Preboil amount + grain weight (kg) – mash water amount = Sparge water amount (litres)

The preboil amount is normally 30 litres (model 30) to achieve 25 litres in the fermenting vessel after boiling. Or 60 litres (model
60) to achieve 50 litres in the fermenting vessel after boiling.

Example: 30 + 7 - 19 = 18 litres of water, for sparging

My Notes:

25
 Chapter 10

ALL GRAIN BEER

RECIPE EX A MPLES
PALE ALE

Malt, total 5,1 kg:

4,5 kg Pale ale malt
0,4 kg Wheat malt
0,1 kg Biscuit malt
0,1 kg Light caramel malt

Hops, total 95 grams:

15 g Cluster, 7,0% alfa acid boil 60 minutes
30 g Cascade, 4,6% alfa acid boil 10 minutes
50 g Cascade, 4,6% alfa acid boil 5 minutes

Yeast:
1 pk Lallemand BRY-97 American West Coast yeast (or similar type of yeast)
(where 1 pack/sacket contains 11g of dried yeast)

Mash for 60 minutes at 65°C

Boil for 60 minutes. Add hops to the boiling wort according the recipe
Cool the wort to 20-25°C and pour it into a fermenting vessel while sprinkling the yeast over the wort. Put the lid on to the
fermenting vessel, add some water to the fermentation lock and insert it into the lid. Leave to ferment at room temperature, about
20°C. When the fermentation stops, after about 5 to 7 day, take a gravity reading. When the gravity is the same over 3 days, the
beer has finished fermenting and you can bottle the beer.

Leave the bottled beer in room temperature for about 2 week, to allow the CO2 to be formed. Then store the bottles in a cold place
and allow it to mature before drinking. For a Pale Ale this period should be about 2 weeks.

Expected values, when 72% Brewhouse efficiency:

Original Gravity (OG): 1.046
Final Gravity (FG): 1.008
Bitterness: 21 IBU
Colour: 10 EBC
Sugar, for bottle carbonation: 6g/litre
Final alcohol content: 5,3 % ABV

Note: All values may vary, depending on the ingredients, temperature when mashing and fermenting, the type of yeast etc.
My notes:

26
ALL GRAIN BEER
RECIPE EX A MPLES
INDIA PALE ALE

Malt, total 7,0 kg:

6,0 kg Pale ale malt
0,5 kg RedX malt
0,4 kg Wheat malt
0,1 kg Biscuit malt

Other fermentables:
0,5 kg Light Belgian candis sugar add to the boiling wort with 15 minutes remaining of the boling time

Hops, total 320 grams:

50 g Magnum, 12,0% alfa acid boil 60 minutes
70 g Cascade, 4,6% alfa acid boil 30 minutes
80 g Cascade, 4,6% alfa acid boil 15 minutes
60 g Cascade, 4,6% alfa acid boil 5 minutes
60 g Cascade, 4,6% alfa acid boil 0 minutes

Yeast:
1 pk Lallemand BRY-97 American West Coast yeast (or similar type of yeast)
(where 1 pack/sacket contains 11g of dried yeast)

Mash for 60 minutes at 66°C

Boil for 60 minutes. Add hops to the boiling wort according the recipe
Cool the wort to 20-25°C and pour it into a fermenting vessel while sprinkling the yeast over the wort. Put the lid on to the
fermenting vessel, add some water to the fermentation lock and insert it into the lid. Leave to ferment at room temperature, about
20°C. When the fermentation stops, after about 5 to 7 day, take a gravity reading. When the gravity is the same over 3 days, the
beer has finished fermenting and you can bottle the beer.

Leave the bottled beer in room temperature for about 2 week, to allow the CO2 to be formed. Then store the bottles in a cold place
and allow it to mature before drinking. For a Pale Ale this period should be about 2 weeks.

Expected values, when 72% Brewhouse efficiency:

Original Gravity (OG): 1.066
Final Gravity (FG): 1.010
Bitterness: 96 IBU
Colour: 15 EBC
Sugar, for bottle carbonation: 6g/litre
Final alcohol content: 7,6 % ABV
Note: All values may vary, depending on the ingredients, temperature when mashing and fermenting, the type of yeast etc.
My notes:

27
 Manufactured and imported by:
Anergi AS, Østerskogen 55, 4879 Grimstad, Norway
VAT: 996428249 NO
Phone: +47-37407040 • Mail: post@beer-brew.com • Web: www.beer-brew.com

Reseller:
Anergi AS, Østerskogen 55, 4879 Grimstad, Norway
VAT: 996428249 NO
Phone: +47-37407040 • Mail: support@olbrygging.no • Web: www.olbrygging.no
Facebook: www.facebook.com/olbrygging.no
Langua ge: EN. Ve rsi on: 1.01

Instagram: www.instagram.com/olbrygging.no
YouTube: www.youtube.com/c/OlbryggingNo
De sign : grov ski sse .no

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