1795-1810 Transitional Stays

Does NOT include seam allowances

All pieces (EXCEPT Piece 4 Gusset) made with 2 layers of plain weave nankeen.
Genesee Country Village & Museum Entirely hand-stitched in yellowish silk thread.

Susan Greene Costume Collection All edges bound with self plain weave nankeen. Stitched to front side, turned over
raw edge, then whipped down on interior side.

G2006.142 Baleen stays each 3/8" wide - many now removed.

Evidence of shoulder straps - stitching at A & B indicated presense of narrow shoulder strap.
Meant to be pinned in CF - numerous holes exist in this area.
Widened by insertions of gussets at the side waist.
High back meant to sit at shoulder blade level, with low front slightly scooped.

Grain Line Indicator

FULL BUST - 43" Self Nankeen Binding

TOP CB
= 1" UNDERBUST - 42" B Stitching for narrow
shoulder strap

WAIST - 41"

Self Nankeen Binding

1795-1810 Transitional Stays Pattern

Genesee Country Village & Museum

in g Susan Greene Collection
ind

Sti
Self Nankeen Binding B
n
CF A
ee

tch
nk
TOP Na Pattern drafted from extant original

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lf
Se Ⓒ 2022 Brandon W. Brooks

pre
Stitching for narrow TOP

s
en Binding

en t
shoulder strap
Self Nanke 3/8" Boning Channel

a cr
3/8" Boning Channel
TOP

o ss
Evidence of pin holes

p an
1795-1810 Transitional Stays Pattern

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Genesee Country Village & Museum

3/8" Boning Channel

3/8" Boning Channel

ea m
Susan Greene Collection

St
it c
Pattern drafted from extant original

hi
ng
Ⓒ 2022 Brandon W. Brooks

pr
es
en
Small reinforcement stitches down CF edge seam

nel
3/8" Boning Channel
3/8" Boning Channel

el

ta

Fold
hann
han

c ro
l
nne

nel
l
nne

nel
ss
ng C

el
el

an
l
ng C

Cha

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pa
ing Chann
ing Chann
l

Chan
Cha

nne

g Ch
ne
Boni

Cha
ning
Boni

ls
Cha
ning

1795-1810 Transitional Stays Pattern

onin
ning
ea
ng
3/8"

" Bo

m
3/8"

Dotted
ng
" Bo

oni

Genesee Country Village & Museum

B
3/8" Bon

Bo
3/8" Bon
oni
3/8

3/8"
Susan Greene Collection
"B
3/8

3/8"
"B
3/8

line rep
3/8

Pattern drafted from extant original

3/8" Boning Channel

3/8" Boning Channel
resen
ts place Ⓒ 2022 Brandon W. Brooks
Evidence of pin holes

Raw edges
whipped down
ment

Stitchi
of guss

n g p r e
et

s e
Piece 4

BOTTOM

n t ac r o
Self Nankeen Binding BOT
TOM

ss pa
Self N
ankee

ne
n Bindin
g

l s ea
BOT

m
TOP Self
TOM
Nan
keen
Bind
ing
on top ith gusset

Edges a
stitched

Stitc
ys.
of sta

hi n g
re folde

BOT
er, w

directly

TOM
stitch re folded ov

pr e s e
d over,
on top o
ectly

Self N
n t ac r
ed dir

ankee
with gu

n Bin
a

f stays.

ding
Edges

oss pane
sset

l s e am

Gusset - Single Layer

1795-1810 Transitional Stays Pattern

Genesee Country Village & Museum

Susan Greene Collection

Pattern drafted from extant original

Ⓒ 2022 Brandon W. Brooks

BOTTOM
Pattern drafted from extant original
Self Nankeen Binding
Ⓒ 2022 Brandon W. Brooks