German International University

Biotechnology Program
Cosmetics BIOT 606
Assignment 2/2
Name: Assignment date: 1.5.2023

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Search and report the physical, chemical and biological features for all of the following cosmetic ingredients:

a. Jojoba oil
b. Ceramides
c. Hyaluronic acid
d. Retinol

a. Jojoba oil

INCI Name HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL

Physical Features:

Appearance: Jojoba oil is typically a golden-yellow or pale yellow liquid.

Texture: It has a smooth and silky texture, making it easy to spread and apply.

Composition: Jojoba oil is primarily composed of esters of long-chain fatty acids and fatty alcohols, particularly eicosenoic
acid and docosenol. It closely resembles the composition of human sebum.

Melting Point: Jojoba oil has a relatively low melting point, usually between 10 to 15 degrees Celsius (50 to 59 degrees
Fahrenheit).

Biological Features:

 Skin Compatibility: Jojoba oil is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin. It is often used in skincare
products due to its gentle and non-irritating nature.

 Emollient Properties: Jojoba oil acts as an effective emollient, providing moisturizing and softening effects to the
skin and hair..
Jojoba oil is a versatile ingredient that is commonly used in various cosmetic formulations. It can be found in several
marketed cosmetic forms, including:

1. Moisturizers and Lotions: Jojoba oil is often incorporated into moisturizers and lotions due to its excellent emollient
properties. It helps to hydrate and soften the skin, providing a smooth and moisturized feel. (ec europe, 2012)

INCI Name CERAMIDE NG

Description

Ceramide NG, formerly known under the INCI Name Ceramide 2, is the N-acylated sphingolipid consisting of Sphinganine
ceramides In the Personal Care Products Council’s use concentration survey, ceramide 3 had a maximum-use concentration
range of 1.0 x 10-8% to 0.2%, with 0.2% reported in lipstick and face and neck skin care preparations.

Physical Features:

 Form: Ceramides are waxy, solid substances at room temperature.

 Appearance: They typically appear as white or off-white powders or flakes.

 Texture: Ceramides have a smooth and creamy texture

Chemical Features:

 Composition: Ceramides are a family of lipid molecules that consist of sphingosine (or a similar base), a fatty acid,
and a polar head group (such as a hydroxyl or a phosphocholine group).

 Structure: Ceramides have a unique structure characterized by an amide bond between the fatty acid and
sphingosine backbone, with the polar head group extending from the molecule.

Biological Features:

Skin Barrier Function: Ceramides play a vital role in the barrier function of the skin. They are a major component of the
stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, where they help to maintain skin hydration, protect against moisture loss,
and defend against external irritant

1. Moisturizers and Creams: Ceramides are commonly found in moisturizers and creams, particularly those designed
for dry and sensitive skin. They help to replenish the skin's natural lipid barrier, improve hydration, and promote
overall skin health.

2. Serums and Ampoules: Ceramide-rich serums and ampoules provide concentrated doses of ceramides to the skin.
These products are often formulated to target specific skin concerns such as dryness, fine lines, or compromised
skin barrier.

Hyaluronic acid :

INCI Name HYALURONIC ACID

Physical Features:

Form: Hyaluronic acid is a white, solid powder.

Solubility: It is highly soluble in water and forms a viscous, gel-like solution.

Chemical Features:

Composition: Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan, consisting of repeating disaccharide units. Each unit consists of D-

glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine

Hydration: Hyaluronic acid is renowned for its exceptional water-holding capacity. It can hold a significant amount of water,
contributing to its hydrating properties.

Skin Hydration: Hyaluronic acid is a key molecule in maintaining skin hydration. It has the ability to bind and retain water
molecules in the skin, helping to keep the skin moisturized and plump.

Skin Elasticity: By promoting skin hydration, hyaluronic acid can improve skin elasticity, making the skin appear more supple
and firm.

1. Lubrication and Cushioning: In the joints, hyaluronic acid acts as a lubricant and shock absorber, providing

cushioning and reducing friction between joints Facial Masks: Hyaluronic acid is frequently included in sheet masks,
gel masks, and overnight masks. These masks provide an intense burst of hydration, leaving the skin refreshed,
rejuvenated, and moisturized.

2. Eye Creams and Gels: Hyaluronic acid is utilized in eye creams and gels to help hydrate and plump the delicate skin
around the eyes. It can help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and puffiness in the eye area

Retinol :

INCI Name RETINOL

Physical Features:

Form: Retinol is a yellow or pale yellow, crystalline solid.

Stability: It is sensitive to light and air, and formulations containing retinol are often packaged in opaque and airtight
containers to maintain its stability.

Chemical Features:

Composition: Retinol is a form of vitamin A and belongs to the retinoid family. It is an alcohol derivative of retinyl esters.

Molecular Formula: The chemical formula of retinol is C20H30O.

Biological Features:
Skin Renewal: Retinol is well-known for its ability to stimulate skin cell turnover and promote the growth of new, healthier
skin cells. This can result in a smoother, more even-toned complexion.

Collagen Production: Retinol can enhance collagen production in the skin, helping to improve skin elasticity and reduce the
appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

1. Anti-Aging Effects: Retinol is widely used for its anti-aging properties, targeting signs of aging such as wrinkles,

uneven skin texture, and dullness. Anti-Acne Products: Retinol is also used in certain acne treatments due to its
ability to regulate sebum production, unclog pores, and promote skin renewal. These products are formulated to
target acne-prone skin and help minimize breakouts.

2. Body Lotions and Creams: Retinol can be found in body lotions and creams designed to address signs of aging, such
as dryness, rough texture, and loss of firmness. These formulations aim to improve the appearance of skin on areas
like the arms, legs, and chest

Retinol concentration in the cosmetic product is between 0.0015% and 0.3%

Abstract

Jojoba oil is a versatile and highly prized ingredient in the cosmetic industry, valued for its numerous benefits for the skin,
hair, and overall well-being. Extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant (Simmondsia chinensis), this golden oil closely
resembles the skin's natural sebum, making it an exceptional moisturizer and emollient.

Jojoba oil's molecular structure is similar to human sebum, allowing it to penetrate deeply into the skin without leaving a
greasy residue. It forms a protective barrier that helps to lock in moisture, prevent water loss, and shield the skin from
environmental aggressors. This makes it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, dry, and oily skin.

Rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins (such as vitamin E), and antioxidants, jojoba oil offers a range of benefits for the skin. It
helps to soothe and calm irritated skin, reduce inflammation, and promote a healthy complexion. Its nourishing properties
can improve skin elasticity, minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and enhance the overall texture and tone of
the skin.

In addition to its skincare benefits, jojoba oil is widely used in hair care. It moisturizes the scalp, helps to regulate sebum
production, and can alleviate dandruff and dryness. It also acts as a natural conditioner, leaving the hair soft, shiny, and
manageable.

Ceramides:
Ceramides are essential lipids that play a vital role in maintaining the health and integrity of the skin's barrier function. These
lipid molecules are naturally present in the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum.

Ceramides act as a protective shield, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated and supple. They help to
strengthen and reinforce the skin's barrier, protecting it from external irritants, pollutants, and pathogens.
As we age or when the skin is compromised, the levels of ceramides can decline, leading to a weakened skin barrier and
increased moisture loss. This can result in dryness, sensitivity, and a variety of skin concerns.

The use of ceramides in cosmetic formulations has gained significant attention and popularity. They are incorporated into
skincare products to replenish and restore the skin's natural ceramide levels. By providing the skin with an external source of
ceramides, these products can help improve the skin's barrier function, enhance moisture retention, and promote overall
skin health.

Ceramides are known for their compatibility with the skin, as they are naturally present in our bodies. They are well-
tolerated by most skin types and are particularly beneficial for dry, sensitive, or aging skin.

Hyaluronic acid : features of hyaluronic acid is its exceptional water-binding capacity. It can hold up to 1000 times its weight
in water, making it a highly effective moisturizer. This hydration property helps to keep the skin plump, smooth, and well-
hydrated, contributing to a youthful and radiant complexion.

Hyaluronic acid also plays a vital role in maintaining the skin's structure and elasticity. It supports collagen and elastin fibers,
which are essential for maintaining skin firmness and elasticity. With age and environmental factors, the natural levels of
hyaluronic acid in the skin decrease, leading to the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of volume.

In cosmetic formulations, hyaluronic acid is used extensively in skincare products due to its hydrating and anti-aging
properties. It is found in various forms, such as serums, creams, and masks, delivering intense hydration to the skin and
promoting a plumping effect. Hyaluronic acid is compatible with all skin types and is well-tolerated, making it suitable for
sensitive skin as well.
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