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To cite this article: Desirée Ukobitz & Rita Faullant (2021) Leveraging 3D Printing Technologies:
The Case of Mexico’s Footwear Industry, Research-Technology Management, 64:2, 20-30, DOI:
10.1080/08956308.2021.1864919
OVERVIEW: Traditional manufacturing techniques, new trends in global consumer behavior, and agile competition neces-
sitate change in the fashion footwear industry, one of the world’s oldest and most prestigious sectors. 3D printing may be
precisely what the fashion footwear industry needs. By 2029, 3D printing in the fashion footwear industry is forecast to
grow into a USD $6 billion revenue opportunity globally. We applied a mixed-method approach to study the adoption of
3D printing in Mexico’s prominent footwear cluster, which comprises all manufacturers, suppliers, and associated industry
contributors in the Guanajuato region. We discuss the state of the art of 3D printing and share local adoption behavior and
global best practices. Our findings offer a guide on how companies in the footwear industry—and other traditional indus-
tries—can leverage 3D printing.
The fashion industry has evolved significantly over the last production methods and accelerate time-to-market amid
10 years. The rise of fast-fashion has brought paradoxical shortened product life cycles. The global footwear industry
trends in an industry whose players seek to produce both generates approximately USD $260 billion annually in rev-
quality and quantity and be sustainable, while minimizing enue and manufactures for up to six fashion seasons per year
costs. The key to competitiveness lies in agile responses to (AMFG 2019a).
changing market dynamics. The global footwear industry New technologies can equip high-performing industries
uses technological innovation to challenge conventional with competitive capacities that improve processes, per-
formance, or cost efficiency (Leifer and McDermott 2000).
For example, experts anticipate 3D printing will simplify
Desirée Ukobitz serves as marketing director for EGADE Business School at existing supply chains through the disintermediation of
Tecnológico de Monterrey in Mexico. She is a PhD student in innovation
management at the University of Klagenfurt in Austria. In her prior position
stakeholders and facilitate on-demand manufacturing
as head of International Competitiveness of the capital city of Guanajuato, (Hoover and Lee 2015). For at least five years, global foot-
she was immersed in the regional economy, which is driven by the footwear wear leaders like Nike, Adidas, and Reebok, have been
industry. Her doctoral research on the adoption of radical technologies pioneers in 3D printing. Previously, footwear manufactur-
focuses on the footwear industry and its usage of 3D printing to increase
local competitiveness. desiree.ukobitz@tec.mx
ers only used 3D printing for prototyping purposes, but
they can now use it for other purposes, including the
Rita Faullant is an associate professor in innovation management at the
mass-customization of insoles, midsoles, and sandals, the
University of Klagenfurt and at the University of Southern Denmark. She has
coauthored more than 60 academic publications in the field of innovation production of unique luxury items, agile prototyping and
and technology management, crowdsourcing, and user-centered new molding processes, and increased design freedom, all of
product development and creativity. She leads the School of Management, which are major benefits for traditional shoemaking. Shoe
Organizational Development, and Technology at the University of Klagenfurt,
and she collaborates with industry partners on projects on digitalization and
manufacturers can use 3D printing to produce many dif-
new technologies. rita.faullant@aau.at ferent styles of shoes (Figure 1). Currently, 3D printing
DOI: 10.1080/08956308.2021.1864919 revenues constitute approximately 0.3 percent of the
© 2021 The Author(s). Published with license by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC. global footwear market (AMFG 2019a). The key to revo-
This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the lutionizing the footwear industry lies in democratizing 3D
Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives License printing in the world’s major footwear clusters (China,
(http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/), which permits
non-commercial re-use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium,
India, Brazil, Italy, Mexico, Italy, and Thailand).
provided the original work is properly cited, and is not altered, We conducted an in-depth analysis of the adoption and
transformed, or built upon in any way. usage of 3D printing in the fashion footwear industry in
Mexico, one of the world’s most prominent footwear clusters. to prosper and self-sustain, the increased homogeneity among
We aimed to discover the drivers and barriers to 3D printing companies results in redundancies in design, manufacturing
adoption, the current scope of use of 3D printing, and how methods, and scope. Shifts in the global consumer-goods indus-
to fully leverage 3D printing in a traditional industry like try and fast-fashion dynamics have put Mexico’s local footwear
shoe manufacturing. industry under considerable strain. Also, severe global compe-
tition and rapidly changing market trends create a turbulent
Mexico’s Footwear Industry environment, driving companies to operate numerous manu-
In several countries, shoemaking is a centuries-old tradition facturing cycles and react to international clients’ multiple
and labor-intensive process. Shoemaking occurs in global on-demand requirements.
clusters. Conventional production methods include casting, Conventional production methods are costly, time inten-
forming, grinding, and molding. sive, work intensive, and unpractical in this context of a
Mexico’s footwear industry is more than 400 years old, constant need to refresh product ranges and extend the num-
ranks ninth globally in footwear production, and is among ber of fashion seasons. Automation and digitalization of pro-
the most consolidated in the world (GTO Footwear 2019). duction processes are two ways to address these changes. At
According to the Mexican Data Institute’s latest economic the same time, the availability of new technologies has
census, Mexico’s footwear industry comprises 11,538 firms, caused the industry to rethink its approach to the market.
of which 60 percent reside in the experience-rich state of International competitors have already recognized the poten-
Guanajuato (ShoesfromMexico 2017). In 2017, Mexico pro- tial of new technologies like 3D printing to speed up time to
duced more than 260 million pairs of shoes, exported to 55 market, optimize supply chains, and adjust costs of conven-
countries, and employed approximately 220,000 people tional shoemaking processes (Hoover and Lee 2015). To opti-
directly and indirectly throughout the entire value chain mize production processes and cost-effectively align new
(ShoesfromMexico 2017). Mexico’s footwear manufacturing product development, Mexico’s fashion footwear industry
industry contributes 0.9 percent to the country’s national also realizes 3D printing’s value (see “3D Printing” on p. 21).
GDP; 68 percent of that contribution comes from Guanajuato’s A standard shoe has severable 3D-printable parts (Figure 2).
footwear cluster (INEGI 2014). Globally, more footwear manufacturers are adopting 3D
Mexico’s footwear industry manufactures footwear for inter- printing (see “Global Sports Brands’ Use of 3D Printing” on
national brands like Nike, Crocs, and Louis Vuitton. The industry p. 21). Advances in processes and materials give designers
owes its prestige not only to tight dynamics inside the cluster unlimited opportunities in terms of look and feel and per-
but also to its unique support structure that includes well-estab- sonalization of items. Designers can create, develop, and
lished industry associations, specialized research institutions, and print digital models from anywhere in the world, thereby
governmental endorsement. While the support structure and enabling borderless production processes. By 2029, 3D
knowledge create unique dynamics that allow the local industry printing in the global footwear industry is forecast to
We collected quantitative data from April 2018 to March adopters employing the technology at each stage of the value
2019. We received 126 responses for our quantitative survey, creation process, the actual usage of the technology observed
of which we discarded 12 due to suspicious data patterns and in our sample, and the potential uses of 3D printing that go
a high level of missing values (Hair et al. 2017), leaving 114 beyond what we could observe in our sample from Mexico’s
responses. footwear industry. While we derived the percentages and
We examined the qualitative data through content anal- use cases observed from the survey, we extracted potential
ysis (Mayring 2000) and coded in MAXQDA v.12. We ana- use cases through our secondary research. We found that
lyzed the quantitative data with the statistical software SPSS 18.4 percent of adopters use 3D printing in the intelligence
25. We examined the quantitative data through frequency phase to source market trends and novelties in open source
and crosstabs analysis as well as independent t-testing. The platforms such as 3dshoes.com or thingiverse.com. In our
sample is dominated by small- and medium-sized companies sample, 38.6 percent of respondents use 3D printing at the
(83.2 percent) from the Mexican state of Guanajuato (62 design stage, and 39.5 percent use it at the development
percent) (Table 1). Most respondents held senior C-leadership stage. 3D printing enables the design and development of
positions (62 percent). Of our respondents 41.2 percent have fully functional prototypes, it represents an agile and cheap
already adopted 3D printing technologies. Adopting firms option to validate market-fit, and it fosters valuable oppor-
have used 3D printing in footwear design and development tunities for customization.
processes (78.1 percent). Only 6.1 percent of companies in our sample employ
3D printing technology at the procurement stage, where
Results parts (accessories, heels) get printed in-house instead of
Our findings show how 3D printing fits along the value purchased externally. For the distribution stage, 9.6 per-
chain, perceived benefits and barriers of 3D printing among cent of the firms leverage the opportunity to commercial-
our sample, and drivers for adoption of 3D printing ize and deliver read-to-print footwear designs (for
technology. example, Feetz). 3D printing technology can offer the
footwear industry significantly more options than current
3D Printing Along the Value Chain usage suggests. Although digital business models play an
We present a typical value chain in footwear manufacturing increasingly important role in the global footwear indus-
(Figure 3) and also show the percentage of 3D printing try, they are not yet well established in Mexico’s fashion
footwear industry. Only 28.1 percent of our adopters use at trade fairs. In essence, 3D printing is a prominent tool
3D printing for marketing purposes because it’s a fancy for brand communication and sales. Our findings show
and novel technology. Adopters promote firm-internal 3D that Mexico’s fashion footwear industry is not using 3D
printing usage through marketing material such as videos, printing technology to its full potential along all the stages
pictures, marketing brochures, websites, social media, and of the value chain.
Discussion
Our results show that that the The global footwear industry leverages 3D printing for several
reasons: as a tool for cost-efficient prototyping and agile man-
internal benefits of 3D printing ufacturing, an enabler of endless design opportunities, a novel
approach to global consumer supply chains, and an ecological
are the biggest driver for its production method that challenges the wasteful impact of
adoption. shoemaking on CO2 emissions, soil, and water reserves.
Despite 3D printing’s huge potential for Mexico’s fashion
footwear industry, the industry has yet to fully apply the
TABLE 3. Action guide to leverage 3D printing adoption in the footwear industry
Stakeholder/Stage Short-term Activities Medium- or Long-term Activities
Industry • Measure constantly 3D printing adoption rates • Set a key performance indicator (KPI)
associations among members aiming to increase adoption rates
• Keep members informed about the benefits of 3D among members
printing • Create a series of annual 3D printing
• Create monthly newsletters on the latest symposiums
developments on 3D printing • Support the industry-wide resolution of
• Diffuse best-case examples and international cases IP issues
of 3D printing in shoemaking among all possible
channels
• Offer training opportunities for members and
non-members
Government • Offer 3D printing–related training opportunities • Offer financing or grants for the
across the country to attract and shape new acquisition of 3D printing equipment
Institutional Environment
similar challenges and could apply our recommendations. 3D printing in the footwear industry initially emphasized
We recommend industry actors thoroughly observe production of personalized orthopedic soles. Companies
opportunities for adopting 3D printing in the different must understand they can leverage 3D printing to a larger
phases of their value creation process. Each stage along scale. Sports footwear companies now mass-customize
the value chain may benefit to a different extent from 3D soles, which is evidence of the technology’s broad
printing technology. While 3D printing’s benefits may be benefits.
most obvious in the development and production stage, Ecosystems in some industries may demand that over
novel and untapped opportunities for leveraging the tech- time certain actors adopt 3D printing. Industry stakeholders
nology could emerge in design and material procurement. may trigger technology adoption—for example, to foster
Industry leaders should be aware that initial applications homogeneity among industry actors. This triggering could
of 3D printing are likely to occur in niches. For example, also spark the creation of support institutions (that is,