International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and

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The use of 3D virtual fitting technology:

comparison between sourcing agents contractors
and domestic suppliers in the apparel industry

Su-Jeong Hwang Shin & Hyunjung Lee

To cite this article: Su-Jeong Hwang Shin & Hyunjung Lee (2020): The use of 3D virtual fitting
technology: comparison between sourcing agents contractors and domestic suppliers in the
apparel industry, International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, DOI:
10.1080/17543266.2020.1797905

To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2020.1797905

Published online: 27 Jul 2020.

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INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF FASHION DESIGN, TECHNOLOGY AND EDUCATION
https://doi.org/10.1080/17543266.2020.1797905

The use of 3D virtual fitting technology: comparison between sourcing agents

contractors and domestic suppliers in the apparel industry
Su-Jeong Hwang Shin and Hyunjung Lee
Department of Design, Apparel Design & Manufacturing, Texas Tech University, Lubbock, TX, USA

ABSTRACT ARTICLE HISTORY

This study provides insight into the use of 3D virtual fitting technology and different perspectives Received 21 February 2020
from the domestic suppliers and sourcing agents/contractors in the global apparel industry. A total Accepted 15 July 2020
of 213 participants from the apparel industry in South Korea responded to the set of questionnaires,
KEYWORDS
pertaining to the industry’s current garment fitting process, the use of virtual fitting technology in 3D; virtual fitting;
the industry, and the industry’s viewpoint of the importance of utilising virtual fitting technology in technology; sourcing; apparel
the future. Descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, t-test, and chi-squared test were used to identify industry
different perspectives of the virtual fitting technology use between domestic suppliers and sourcing
agents/contractors. In findings, although the garment industry anticipates the use of virtual fitting
technology in the near future, sourcing agents/contractors working with U.S. companies and
domestic suppliers have significantly different viewpoints and uncertainty of virtual fitting
software use in the current industry.

1. Introduction fitting technology for the industry to improve the fit

assessment process.
Global outsourcing is a common practice in the
In the apparel industry, some sourcing agents/con-
apparel industry to reduce labour costs for its competitive
tractors have initiated the use of 3D virtual fitting tech-
advantage (Cho & Kang, 2001; Sul, 2010). However, glo-
nology to assure the quality of clothing production for
bal outsourcing has limitations in production and long-
apparel companies in the U.S. and Europe. The majority
distance communication (Labahn & Harich, 1997). For
of manufacturers, including domestic suppliers and
communication, apparel companies and sourcing
sourcing agents/contractors, have raised the following
agents/contractors typically rely on a tech pack, a series
questions. Would it be better to acquire virtual fitting
of documents that contain all of the garment design spe-
technology at this time or consider acquisition in the
cifications, including garment samples, photos, flats, pat-
future? If acquisition of the technology is required,
terns, details, sizes, and body measurements (Kim &
which virtual fitting software program is commonly
Jeong, 2016). Although companies and sourcing agents/
used by the industry? Would virtual fitting technology
contractors put an effort to comply with the production
be a reliable tool for the global industry working with
process listed in a tech pack, they often express difficulties
overseas apparel companies? Thus, this study is designed
in obtaining accurate measurements in the clothing fit
to investigate the use of 3D virtual fitting technology and
process.
perspectives from the domestic suppliers and sourcing
The 3D virtual fitting technology is emerging as a new
agents/contractors in the global apparel industry.
solution for garment fitting. The following software pro-
grams are available for virtual fitting: AccuMark 3D,
Vsticher, CLO, Modaris® V8R2, and OptiTex. The use 2. Literature review
of technology has changed the garment industry and glo-
2.1. The apparel industry in South Korea
bal supply chain system, which provides a dynamic net-
work of outsourcing products and services from overseas The Korea Federation of Textile Industry (KOFOTI) has
(Chase, 1997; Goyal, 2012; Yan & Fiorito, 2002). Several reported that there are 47,847 apparel manufacturers in
studies (Kim & Labat, 2013; Lee, 2013; Lee & Park, 2017; South Korea (KOFOTI, 2019). The textile and apparel
Porterfield & Lamar, 2017; Salmon, 2014; Shin, 2015) industry employed 294,000 people, representing
have emphasised the importance of using 3D virtual approximately 7.2% of the total employment in the

CONTACT Su-Jeong Hwang Shin su.hwang@ttu.edu Department of Design, Apparel Design & Manufacturing, Texas Tech University, Box 41220, Lubbock,
TX 79409-1220, USA
© The Textile Institute and Informa UK Ltd 2020
2 Shin, et al

Table 1. South Korea apparel exports and imports (Korean Federation of Textile Industry, 2019).
2019
Classification 2016 2017 2018 01 02 03 01∼03
Export and Import (million $) Total value of export 13,807 13,742 14,080 1,137 935 1,087 3,160
(% change from previous yr.) (−4.7) (−0.5) (2.5) (−3.5) (−4.9) (−11.8) (−6.9)
Total Value of Import 14,507 15,194 17,141 1,576 1,054 1,396 4,026
(% change from previous yr.) (1.4) (4.7) (12.8) (12.3) (−12.3) (7.3) (3.1)
Trade of Balance −700 −1452 −3061 −439 −119 −309 −866

country’s manufacturing sector. According to Korean
Federation of Textile Industry’s report (KOFOTI, 2019),
the apparel industry has reached about $14 billion
exports (increased 2.5%) and $17 billion imports
(increased 12.8%) in 2018. Table 1 shows the trend of
South Korea apparel exports and imports.
The growth of clothing exports supported apparel
manufacturers in the early 1960s (Dickerson, 1999),
but from the 1990s, South Korean exports have
decreased due to increasing wages and decreasing man-
ufacturing costs in other countries (Bonacich, 1994;
KTDI, 2009). While the labour intensity of apparel pro-
duction has increasingly shifted from South Korea to
other countries, apparel manufacturers in South Korea
have evolved their roles into transnational producers
and sourcing agents that manage apparel manufacturing
in the global supply chain (Staritz, 2011).
South Korea manufacturers have adopted new global
strategies in collaboration with U.S. apparel companies.
They have changed from OEM (Original Equipment
Manufacturer) to ODM (Original Design Manufacturer)
and OBM (Original Brand Name Manufacturing)
(Gereffi, 2018). According to OEC (2019), the U.S. is
second in the world for exports from South Korea.
Table 2 shows examples of South Korea apparel manu-
facturing contractors and sourcing agents working with
U.S apparel companies.
In the global supply chain, South Korea contractors
manufacture garments for the U.S. apparel companies.
Sourcing agents have an important role in handling the
products between the contractors and buyers from the
apparel companies. When collaborating with buyers,
the challenges of sourcing agents and contractors are
miscommunication and production lead-time delay
caused by the long distance (Jeon & Park, 2016). As a sol-
ution, a South Korean contractor, SAE-A TRADING,
provides apparel production from design concept to gar-
ment production to U.S. apparel companies, utilising 3D
virtual fitting technology (Lee, 2013; SAE-A TRADING,
2019). Further, another contractor, HANSAE uses 3D
virtual fitting technology to review garment fit and pro-
duct samples with buyers.

2.2. Garment fitting process: conventional vs.

Table 2. Sourcing agents/contractors in South Korea (Lee et al., virtual fitting
2013).
Contractors & Sourcing Garment fitting is a process evaluating garments on a
agents Buyers
body to check fit, comfort, and appearance quality
Contractors SAE-A Express, Gap, Gap Outlet, Aeropostale, Kohl’s,
TRADING Kohl’s-Sonoma, Mudd, Hang Ten, Maypole,
(Workman & Lentz, 2000). According to previous
Urban Pipeline, Helix, Rock& Republic, studies (Anderson et al., 1999; Bye & LaBat, 2005), typi-
Target, Walmart cally 94% garments go through at least two or three times
HANSAE Gap/On, Under Armour, DKNY, Target,
Aeropostale, Old Navy, Victoria’s Secret, of fitting process. Fitting is repeated until the desired
Walmart, Sears, KOHL’S, JC Penney look is achieved (see Figure 1).
Nobland Guess, DKNY, Oasis, CSI, Bass, Anthropologie,
Kimberly Ovitz, White/Black, Urban, Gap, JC It usually takes about thirty-seven days on average
Penney, Old Navy, BR, Target, Banana with the conventional garment fitting process using fab-
Republic
HANSOLL Gap, Gap Fit, Express, Old Navy, Hollister, rics (CLO, 2019). A previous study reported inefficiency
Kohel’s, Victoria’s Secret, Victoria Sport, of conventional garment fitting that might produce mul-
Pink, Walmart, Justice, Maurices, JC
Penney, Target, Under Armour
tiple physical sample garments (Lee, Choi, & Do, 2013).
SUY CO. Express, Ann Taylor, Talbots, Michael Kors, In collaboration, an efficient way is necessary to handle a
Loft variety of fit issues within limited production lead time
LEE & CO. Sonoma, C&B, ELLE, Dana Buchman, ART.9,
Lauren Conrad (Lee & Park, 2017). Although apparel companies com-
Sourcing Li & Fung Talbots, New York & Company, Torrid, NY & municate with sourcing agents/contractors through
agents CO, Limited Knit (women), AEO, Limited,
Aerie web-based conferencing, fitting without visualising a
Mast Victoria’s Secret, Victoria’s Secret Store, La sample garment is nearly impossible for them to decide
Senza (US/CANADA), PINK
for the entire production.
 INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF FASHION DESIGN, TECHNOLOGY AND EDUCATION
Figure 1. Garment fitting process.
The 3D virtual fitting technology has been introduced
to the industry for visualisation. According to CLO
company’s report of the 3D (CLO, 2019), virtual
fitting technology reduce the lead time of garment
sample assessment on average from 37 days to 27 h,
eliminating redundant sample garment review processes
(see Figure 2).
2.3. Available virtual fitting software for the
global apparel industry
Several global apparel companies including Adidas, Gap,
Nike, Ralph Lauren, Under Armour, and Theory use the
following 3D virtual fitting software: AccuMark 3D,
ModarisV8R2, VStitcher, Optitex, and CLO. Virtual
fitting software can be useful to fix patterns with a
real-time simulation of the fit before making actual gar-
ments (Park et al., 2011; Sayem et al., 2012; Sul, 2010). It
improves design process and commmunication between
technical designers and manufacturers (Salmon, 2014;
Yoon, 2013). One of the virtual fitting software, Accu-
Mark 3D from Gerber Technology enables pattern-
makers to view 3D simulation while they create 2D
patterns. According to Gerber Technology (2019), vir-
tual garment samples with 2D/3D simultaneous feature
can reduce production lead time up to 50% and save
70% in costs of the pattern development. For efficiency,
AccuMark 3D platform integrated with CAD/CAM
helps to increase production speed up to five times faster
and save 15% of fabric materials in the global industry
(Gerber Technology, 2019).
Figure 2. Before use 3D vs After use 3D (CLO, 2019).
3
Similarly, Modaris V8R2 has reported that 2D/3D
simulation feature decreases patternmaking time over
50%. It reduces the production lead time and the number
of sample materials in global supply chain (Lectra, 2019;
Crawford, 2017). VStitcher from Browzeware also pro-
vides 2D/3D simulation feature with streamlining
workflow that improves garment fit by modifying pat-
terns and garment fit at the same time (Russell, 2019).
In addition, VStitcher, OptiTex 3D, and CLO can
manipulate vector images from Adobe Illustrator and
enables designers to create streamline workflow from
design to production (OptiTex, 2019). CLO provides a
synchronisation feature that allows users to draw cloth-
ing design directly on the virtual model and generate pat-
tern pieces at the same time (CLO, 2019; Russell, 2019).
Simulation might help designers to visualise products.
The feature of virtual fitting could increase 30%
efficiency of workflow (CLO, 2019). Collaboration
between each sector in the global industry can be
improved with the 3D features (Mageean, 2018).
According to CLO (2019), 50% of the overseas apparel
companies accept sample garments from sourcing agents
utilising 3D CLO. In addition, Optitex (2019) has
reported that their virtual fitting software makes overall
production lead time 60% faster than the traditional
workflow. Several CAD vendors emphasise importance
of the virtual fitting technology (CLO, 2019; Crawford,
2017; Gerber Technology, 2019; Lectra, 2019; OptiTex,
2019; Russell, 2019). However, the industry’s viewpoint
of the virtual fitting technology is unknown. Thus, the
aim of this study was to investigate the importance of
4 Shin, et al

Table 3. Descriptive statics of the participants from the apparel Table 4. Sourcing agents/contractors and domestic suppliers.
industry. Group A
Category Answers N % Sourcing agents/contractors
working with U.S. apparel Group B
Industry Experiences ≤1 year 26 12.2 companies N (%) Domestic suppliers in South Korea N (%)
2–3 years 26 12.2
4–5 years 26 12.2 Sourcing agents 34 16.0 Domestic brands 68 31.9
6–7 years 25 11.7 Contractors 42 19.7 Domestic manufacturers 23 10.8
8–9 years 77 36.2 Domestic designer brands 30 14.1
≥10 years 33 15.5 Other domestic suppliers 16 7.5
Total 213 100 Total 76 35.7 137 64.3
Employments Fashion designers 37 17.4
Merchandisers, MD/MR 44 20.6
Technical designers 53 24.9
Pattern makers 20 9.4 3.2. Data analysis
Cut & Sewing Operators 27 12.7
Others (e.g. intern, freelancer) 32 15.0 One-way ANOVA was used to identify differences
Total 213 100 between variables: contractors, domestic manufacturers,
sourcing agents, domestic brands, domestic designer
brands, and other domestic suppliers. After ANOVA
3D virtual fitting technology from the viewpoint of dom-
test, the variables were examined with Scheffe test for a
estic suppliers and sourcing agents/contractors in the
post hoc test, then they were categorised into two groups:
garment industry. The following hypotheses were tested:
Sourcing agents/contractors (Group A) and domestic
Hypothesis I: Sourcing agents/contractors working with
suppliers (Group B) (Table 4).
U.S. apparel companies might have better knowledge
Sourcing agents/contractors (Group A) and domestic
of the 3D virtual fitting technology than domestic suppli-
suppliers (Group B) were asked to answer their perspec-
ers. Hypothesis II: Sourcing agents/contractors would
tives on the virtual fitting technology importance in five
use virtual fitting technology more often than domestic
Likert Scales (e.g. 5 =the most important, 1= the least
suppliers.
important). Their answers were examined with t-test to
Hypothesis III: Both Sourcing agents/contractors and
identify significant differences between the two groups.
domestic suppliers would emphasise the importance of
Descriptive statistics and Chi-squared test were used to
3D virtual fitting technology use in the future apparel
identify if they have any different viewpoints of the 3D
industry.
virtual fitting technology for garment fitting process. In
addition, feedbacks from the participants were used to
understand their perspectives on virtual fitting
3. Methods technology.
3.1. Data collection
In this study, a survey consisted of a total of 25 questions, 4. Results and discussions
pertaining to the industry’s current garment fitting pro-
4.1. Different knowledge of the garment fitting
cess, the use of virtual fitting technology in the industry,
process
and the industry’s viewpoint of the importance of utilis-
ing virtual fitting technology in the future. Initially, the Sourcing agents/contractors working with U.S. compa-
survey was emailed to a randomly selected small group nies (Group A) and domestic suppliers (Group B) have
of technical designers who might be interested in partici- significantly different understanding of the POM
pating in this study. As numbers of participants were (Point of Measure)/HTM (How to Measure) measure
increasing, the survey was converted to a Google survey guidelines.
form. The survey link was sent to apparel companies and For garment fitting, only 54% of the domestic suppli-
manufacturers by email and social media. ers (Group B) have POM/ HTM guidelines while 100%
A total of 213 participants from the garment industry of the sourcing agents/contractors (Group A) responded
in South Korea responded to the survey. The partici- that they have POM /HTM guidelines (χ 2 = 49.627,
pants’ employments and years of industry experience p<0.001). Interestingly, 27% of the domestic suppliers
are shown in Table 3. The majority of participants in responded that they do not know about the measure
this study had 8–9 years (36.2%) and over 10 years guidelines and 35% of them do not know who conduct
(15.5%) of the industry experiences, including technical garment fitting evaluation. The results of chi-square
designers (24.9%), merchandisers (20.6%), and fashion test are shown in Table 5.
designers (17.4%), cut & sewing operators (12.7%), and Evaluators of garment fitting are significantly different
pattern makers (9.4%). by the groups (χ 2 = 92.890, p<0.001). Of the sourcing
 INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF FASHION DESIGN, TECHNOLOGY AND EDUCATION 5

Table 5. Garment fitting knowledge differences by the two Table 7. The use of 3D virtual fitting technology in the current
groups. industry.
Group A Group B Group A Group B
Questionnaires Responses N (%) N (%) χ2 Questionnaires Responses N (%) N (%) χ2
Knowledge of POM/ Yes 76 (100) 74 (54.0) 49.627*** If they heard of the 3D Yes 76 (100) 88 (64.2) 35.304***
HTM guidelines No 0 (0) 26 (19.0) virtual fitting No 0 (0) 49 (35.8)
I don’t know 0 (0) 37 (27.0) technology Total 76 (100) 137 (100)
Total 76 (100) 137 (100) If they are currently Yes 57 (75.0) 0 (0) 140.331***
Evaluators of the Buyer’s 70 (92.1) 35 (25.5) 92.890*** using the 3D virtual No 14 (18.4) 105 (76.6)
sample garment fit technical fitting technology I don’t 5 (6.6) 32 (23.4)
designers know
Technical 4 (5.3) 19 (13.9) Total 76 (100) 137 (100)
designers ***p < 0.001.
Pattern makers 0 (0) 20 (14.6)
I don’t know 0 (0) 48 (35.0)
Others 2 (2.6) 15 (11.0)
Total 76 (100) 137 (100)
Numbers of fitting 1 time 0 (0) 5 (3.6) 34.134*** As shown in Table 6, compared to the domestic sup-
evaluation 2 times 9 (11.8) 17 (12.4)
3 times or 65 (85.6) 69 (50.4)
pliers, the sourcing agents/contractors (Group A) rely on
more more technical packages with other means such as web
I don’t know 2 (2.6) 46 (33.6) conference and 3D virtual fitting technology. This can
Total 76 (100) 137 (100)
***p < 0.001.
be interpreted that 3D virtual fitting technology might
be an effective tool for the contractors and buyers’ gar-
ment fitting evaluation.
agents/contractors (Group A), 92.1% responded that
their buyers’ technical designers evaluate the sample gar-
ment fit while the domestic suppliers (Group B) 4.2. The use of 3D virtual fitting technology in the
responded that the suppliers’ patternmakers (14.6%) current industry
and technical designers (13.9%) evaluate the sample gar-
ment fit. Compared to the domestic suppliers (Group B), When participants from the industry were asked if they
the sourcing agents/contractors (Group A) had more fre- heard of the 3D virtual fitting technology, their responses
quent numbers of fitting evaluations (χ 2 = 34.134, were significantly different (χ 2 = 35.304, p<0.001). Table
p<0.001). 7 shows the use of 3D virtual fitting technology in the
Overall, 85.6% of the sourcing agents/contactors and current apparel industry.
50.4% of the domestic suppliers reported that their gar- A majority of the Group B, domestic suppliers
ment fitting evaluations are done three or more times (76.6%) responded that they do not use and 23.4% of
while 33.6% of the domestic suppliers were unsure how them were unsure if the virtual fitting technology is
often they evaluate garment fitting. being used in their companies. However, all sourcing
Table 6 shows their ways of communication regarding agents/contractors (Group A) responded that they
the sample garment fit. The sourcing agents/contractors know the 3D virtual fitting technology and 75% of
reported that they often communicate with their buyers them are currently using the technology (χ 2 = 140.331,
using a technical package with photos (94.7%), web con- p<0.001). Table 8 shows virtual fitting software programs
ference (21.1%), 3D virtual fitting (15.8%), and face-to- that are currently being used in the apparel industry. A
face meetings (2.6%). However, the majority of domestic majority of the sourcing agents/contractors responded
suppliers responded that they have face-to-face meetings
(42.3%) and only 6.6% of them uses technical package Table 8. Frequency of the 3D virtual fitting software use in the
with photos. current industry.
Group A Group B
Questionnaires Responses N (%) N (%) Total
The 3D virtual fitting CLO 51 (67.1) 0 (0) 53 (24.9)
software program in Optitex 4 (5.3) 0 (0) 3 (1.4)
Table 6. The means of communication with buyers for sample use Browzwear 4 (5.3) 0 (0) 3 (1.4)
garment fitting. Not in use 14 (18.4) 100 (73.0) 114 (53.5)
I don’t know 3 (3.9) 37 (27.0) 40 (18.8)
Tech pack Web Face-to-Face 3D virtual fitting
Total 76 (100) 137 (100) 213 (100)
with photos conference meetings technology
Years of the 3D virtual Less than a 16 (21.1) 0 (0) 16 (21.1)
N (%) N (%) N (%) N (%) fitting software year
Group 72 (94.7) 16 (21.1) 2 (2.6) 12 (15.8) program use 1–3 years 43 (56.6) 0 (0) 43 (20.2)
A Not in use 14 (18.4) 100 (73.0) 114 (53.5)
Group 9 (6.6) 0 (0) 58 (42.3) 0 (0) I don’t know 3 (3.9) 37 (27.0) 40 (18.8)
B Total 76 (100) 137 (100) 213 (100)
6 Shin, et al

Table 9. The virtual fitting technology use in the current and the
future industry.
Importance of the 3D virtual Group A Group B
fitting technology use Mean Mean
(S.D.) (S.D.)
The 3D virtual fitting 3.55 (0.77) 2.79 (0.69)
technology in the current
industry
The 3D virtual fitting 4.42 (0.75) 4.09 (0.80)
technology in the future
industry
***p < 0.001.
that they use CLO (67.1%), Optitex (5.3%) and Browz-
wear (5.3%).
In the current industry, virtual fitting software pro-
grams are fairly new to domestic suppliers. Of the sour-
cing agents/contractors, 56.6% have been using 1∼3
years, and 18.4% have experienced with virtual fitting
software less than a year.
4.3. The importance of 3D virtual fitting
technology in the current and the future industry
Table 9 shows the significantly different ratings of the 3D
virtual fitting technology importance in the current and
the future industry. Sourcing agents/contractors (Group
A) and Domestic suppliers (Group B) have significantly
different opinions about the 3D virtual fitting technology
importance in the current industry (p<0.001).
Sourcing agents/contactors responded that virtual
fitting is important in the current industry (3.55 ± 0.77)
while domestics suppliers responded less important
(2.79±0.69). However, both sourcing agents/contractors
(4.42±0.75) and domestic suppliers (4.09±0.80)
responded that 3D virtual fitting technology would be
important in the future. Table 10 shows their intention
to adapt the 3D virtual fitting technology. Sourcing
agents/contractors and domestic suppliers responded
for different uses (χ 2 = 131.479, p<0.001).
Only 26.8% of the 213 participants responded that
virtual fitting technology is currently being used. Of
the sourcing agents/contractors, 75% is utilising the 3D
virtual fitting technology. All sourcing agents/contactors
are willing to use. Of the domestic suppliers, 21.9% do
not have any plan to use the technology, and 78.1%
t-value intend to use the virtual fitting technology. When they
were asked how they want to use the 3D virtual fitting
−7.178*** technology in the future, 25.5% of the domestic suppliers
responded that they want to use it for showing sample
−2.976 garments in pre-production, evaluating garments, and
grading patterns. However, sourcing agents/contractors
responded that they do not use for grading patterns.
They are more likely to use the virtual fitting technology
for design development, fit sample, and pre-production
sample review process.
4.4. Advantages and challenges of utilising 3D
virtual fitting technology
In an open-ended question, participants from the indus-
try were asked to describe why or why not they want to
adopt 3D virtual fitting technology. Their frequent com-
ments were categorised into similar themes: efficiency,
productivity, reliability, and cost of acquisition.
The efficiency of virtual fitting was frequently men-
tioned as an advantage in the feedbacks. Technical
designers who have used virtual fitting technology stated
‘save time and cost by reducing production lead time’
and ‘communicate efficiently with overseas buyers’, noti-
cing any change of garment detail immediately in their
design development process. Sourcing agents/contrac-
tors also reported that ‘we would be able to reduce pro-
duction time and cost since we could expect garment
design or fit by creating virtual garment before making
physical garment’.
However, 80% of the technical designers who have
conducted virtual fitting expressed their challenges of
utilising virtual fitting software programs. They fre-
quently reported issues with its reliability: ‘Difficult to
entirely rely on current 3D technology’, ‘Designs that
cannot be created accurately by 3D program depending
on fabrics or sewing types’, ‘limitation on checking
body movements with a virtual model’, and ‘Physical
garment samples are indispensable to recheck fit’. Unlike

Table 10. Applications of the 3D virtual fitting technology.

Group A Group B
Questionnaires Responses N (%) N (%) Total χ2
Applications of the 3D virtual fitting technology Design development 7 (9.3) 22 (16.1) 29 (13.6) 131.479***
Fit sample 9 (11.8) 31 (22.6) 40 (18.8)
Pre-production sample 3 (3.9) 14 (10.2) 17 (8.0)
Sample size, grading 0 (0) 5 (3.7) 5 (2.3)
Others (e.g. for all use) 0 (0) 35 (25.5) 35 (16.4)
Currently in use 57 (75) 0 (0) 57 (26.8)
No plan to use 0 (0) 30 (21.9) 30 (14.1)
Total 76 (100) 137 (100) 213 (100)
***p < 0.001.
 INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF FASHION DESIGN, TECHNOLOGY AND EDUCATION
advertisements from the 2D/3D CAD vendors, virtual
fitting software programs need much improvement.
Sourcing agents/contractors and domestic suppliers
stated that cost of acquisition with uncertainty is too
high, which can be found from the feedbacks: ‘It would
take a lot of time and money to learn a new technology
and to get used to’, ‘The initial cost of the program is
overwhelming to the company’, and ‘we (sourcing
agents) are less likely to introduce 3D virtual fitting tech-
nology unless buyers do not ask for using 3D virtual
fitting’. Although virtual fitting has some challenges in
the current industry, Table 10 shows that most of them
intend to utilise virtual fitting technology in the future.
Sourcing agents/contractors and domestic suppliers
view the 3D virtual fitting technology as an important
means of efficient communication for product
development.
5. Conclusion and suggestions
Sourcing agents/contractors and domestic suppliers are
expected to provide better quality products since the gar-
ment industry shifted from OEM (Original Equipment
Manufacturer) to ODM (Original Design Manufacturer)
and OBM (Original Brand Name Manufacturing). Gar-
ment fitting is an avoidable process for sourcing
agents/contractors and domestic suppliers to ensure
the quality of products, sizes and fit. In this study, it
has been found that sourcing agents/contractors and
domestic suppliers have different perspectives on the
3D virtual fitting technology. Compared to the domestic
suppliers, sourcing agents/contractors working with
overseas apparel companies have better understanding
of the 3D technology-aided garment fitting process. Of
the sourcing agents/contractors, 75% are currently utilis-
ing the 3D virtual fitting technology while domestic sup-
pliers do not use it in the current industry.
In this study, several sourcing agents/contractors have
reported that their overseas buyers demand them to use
the 3D virtual fitting technology to ensure the garment fit
and sizes. Within the group of sourcing/agents/contrac-
tors, 75% use the virtual fitting technology and claim this
is useful to predict a variety of fit issues immediately
from the virtual images. The rest who do not use the vir-
tual fitting technology also believe that it allows them to
assure quality of products for their buyers. Whether they
use the technology or not, the majority of sourcing
agents/contractors believe that it would be a benefit for
the global garment industry supply chain as a whole to
reduce production lead time. The majority of sourcing
agents/contractors intend to use the 3D virtual fitting
technology to increase the effectiveness of communi-
cation with overseas buyers.
7
On the other hand, domestic suppliers are reluctant to
use the 3D virtual fitting technology. The majority of
domestic suppliers are still conducting the conventional
way of garment fitting. Domestic suppliers insist that
their way of garment fitting on an actual model is less
costly than implementing the 3D virtual fitting technol-
ogy. Unlike sourcing agents/contractors who have their
own POM/HTM measure guidelines for garment
fitting, several domestic suppliers do not know much
about the process with the measure guidelines. Domestic
suppliers prefer face-to-face meetings and garment
fitting on an actual person. They believe that virtual
fitting technology is unnecessary in the current industry.
In domestic suppliers’ view, insignificance of virtual
fitting is due to their characteristics of domestics sour-
cing and production that do not require much of compli-
cated fitting process. However, as domestic suppliers
working with international companies increase, it
would be inevitable for them to find an efficient way of
fitting process in the global supply chain.
Although sourcing agents/contractors are more open
to the 3D virtual fitting technology in the future, it has
been found that they are also reluctant to acquire the
3D virtual fitting software program because of
inadequate information about the use and its high cost.
It may be a strategical option for the CAD vendors to
introduce the 3D virtual fitting software program with
free trials or rental options for the small and mid-sized
companies. More importantly, training or educational
resources of the 3D virtual fitting software program use
would be a great benefit for both sourcing agents/contac-
tors and domestic suppliers in understanding the impor-
tance of virtual fitting technology and the effectiveness of
communication with buyers in the global supply chain.
Disclosure statement
No potential conflict of interest was reported by the author(s).
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