SUSTAINABLE DISPOSAL

BEHAVIOUR OF THE FAST

FASHION CONSUMER
– A PRACTICE PERSPECTIVE

Thesis for One-Year Master, 15 ECTS

Textile Management

Ebba Ardbo
Elvira Ekvall

Thesis Number 2021.18.02

Title: Sustainable Disposal Behaviour of the Fast Fashion Consumer - A Practice Perspective

Publication year: 2021

Authors: Ebba Ardbo and Elvira Ekvall

Supervisor: Sandhiya Gooloup

Abstract

The textile and fashion industry is one of the most extensive and unsustainable industries in the
world. Fast fashion companies, and the consumers purchasing, using and disposing the items,
have an especially negative impact on the environment. Previous research does not provide
deep knowledge of how environmentally sustainable clothing disposal is performed in word
and deed as a part of consumers everyday life. However, this is needed to improve
environmental sustainability. This research study aims to contribute to and deepen the existing
body of research regarding this, investigating female members of Generation Z in a fast fashion
context. Thus, the purpose of the study is to contribute with a current understanding of the
practice of sustainable clothing disposal by developing knowledge about how consumers
perform disposal activities post-consumption, as well as revealing the meanings driving the
behaviour.

In order to fulfill the purpose, a qualitative research strategy was used. Empirical material was
collected through ten semi-structured interviews with female Generation Z participants. The
study uses a practice theory approach, viewing a practice as a complex interaction between what
consumers say and do in a specific context. A practice consists of several different activities
and is dependent on three elements: competence, material and meaning. Furthermore, the
theoretical framework consists of previous research on sustainable clothing disposal behaviour.

The findings reveal that the practice of sustainable clothing disposal includes a number of
activities performed by the participants in the context in question. Several central tendencies
are distinguished; showing how female Generation Z consumers perform the activities under
different circumstances, through routinised actions and communication in their everyday lives.
In addition, the findings identify five different forms of meaning driving the behaviour.
Accordingly, both theoretical and practical contributions are generated. The findings build on
the existing body of research, adding deep and current understanding of sustainable clothing
disposal behaviour. Furthermore, actors in the textile and fashion industry can interpret the
findings of the behaviour and meaning-making, and hence improve their adaptation to the
consumer. Ultimately, this can cause a positive impact on environmental sustainability.

Keywords: Clothing Disposal, Environmental Sustainability, Practice Theory, Consumer

Behaviour, Fast Fashion, Generation Z

I
Table of contents

Introduction.............................................................................................................................. 1
1.1 Background ............................................................................................................................. 1
1.2 Problem Discussion................................................................................................................. 3
1.3 Purpose and Research Questions ............................................................................................ 7
1.4 Delimitations ........................................................................................................................... 8
1.5 Disposition .............................................................................................................................. 8
Theoretic Framework............................................................................................................... 9
2.1 Practice Theory ....................................................................................................................... 9
2.1.1 Sustainable Clothing Disposal as a Practice ..................................................................... 10
2.1.2 The Creation of Meaning in Sustainable Clothing Disposal ............................................ 11
2.2 Sustainable Clothing Disposal Activities .............................................................................. 14
Methodology .......................................................................................................................... 17
3.1 A Qualitative Research Approach......................................................................................... 17
3.2 Research Sample ................................................................................................................... 18
3.3 Qualitative Interviews ........................................................................................................... 19
3.4 Analysis of Qualitative Material ........................................................................................... 22
3.5 Research Quality ................................................................................................................... 23
3.6 Research Ethics ..................................................................................................................... 24
Analysis ................................................................................................................................. 25
4.1 Sustainable Clothing Disposal Activities .............................................................................. 25
4.1.1 Sort .................................................................................................................................... 25
4.1.2 Recycle ............................................................................................................................. 26
4.1.3 Donate to Charity .............................................................................................................. 28
4.1.4 Give Away ........................................................................................................................ 29
4.1.5 Resell ................................................................................................................................ 30
4.1.6 Swap ................................................................................................................................. 32
4.1.7 Lend Out and Rent Out ..................................................................................................... 33
4.1.8 Keep: Repair and Redesign .............................................................................................. 34
4.2 Meanings Driving Sustainable Clothing Disposal ................................................................ 38
4.2.1 Contribution to Environmental Sustainability .................................................................. 38
4.2.2 Financial Profit ................................................................................................................. 40
4.2.3 Personal Values ................................................................................................................ 42
4.2.4 Convenience and Practical Aspects .................................................................................. 43
4.2.5 Fast Fashion Characteristics ............................................................................................. 44
Discussion .............................................................................................................................. 46
Conclusions............................................................................................................................ 49
Limitation and Future Research............................................................................................. 51
References ...................................................................................................................................... 53
Appendices ..................................................................................................................................... 60
Appendix 1: Informed Consent .......................................................................................................... 60
Appendix 2: Interview Guide ............................................................................................................. 61

II
 Introduction

1.1 Background
The textile and fashion industry is one of the most extensive industries in the world. It consists
of a global network of companies of different sizes involved in processes such as design,
manufacturing, merchandising and marketing (Burns & Mullet 2020). The industry produces
millions of tonnes of textiles and fashion apparel every year, which stimulates economic growth
and creates over 40 million job opportunities worldwide (Ellen McArthur Foundation 2020;
Mistra Future Fashion n.d). However, simultaneously the textile and fashion industry is one of
the most unsustainable industries globally, mainly regarding environmental and social aspects.
Processes in production and distribution create significant emissions into land, water and air,
making the textile industry responsible for 10 % of the total global emissions (European
Parliament 2020; Mistra Future Fashion n.d). Textile production generates 15 to 35 tonnes of
CO2 per tonne of textiles (European Environment Agency 2019). As a result, the industry is
considered to be the second most pollutive globally, after the chemical industry. In addition,
workers in the manufacturing process often experience unethical working conditions,
dangerous environments and low wages (Fletcher 2014; Mistra Future Fashion n.d).
Furthermore, a category of companies considered to contribute more than others to the current
unsustainable situation is fast fashion. Some examples of companies in the category are H&M,
Zara, Mango, Forever21, Topshop and Uniqlo (Burns & Mullet 2020; Joung 2014). Fast fashion
products are characterized as inexpensive and constantly keeping up with current trends.
Therefore, they are designed to be cheap, easy and rapid to produce – using cheap materials and
labour, and as short lead times as possible. This strategy and efficient large scale production
lead to increased sales and economic growth for the companies. However, in general, the fast
fashion industry does not take sustainability into account (Burns & Mullet 2020; Fletcher 2014).

It is not only the fast fashion companies that harm the environment; consumers act
unsustainably in many ways too. Due to its characteristics, fast fashion is often called
'disposable fashion' (Young Lee, Halter, Johnson & Ju 2013; Morgan & Birtwistle 2009).
Disposal means the act of getting rid of something (Laitala 2014). In the literature, clothing
disposal behaviour varies in some ways, but they are partly overlapping. The most common
terms used are donating, giving away, reselling, and swapping (ibid). Fast fashion items are

1
purchased more than ever before, and consumers who buy them tend to quickly get tired of the
trendy and low-quality clothes and, therefore, get rid of them after a short period of use (Joung
2014). Hence, today's consumers live in a materialistic 'throwaway society', where products are
disposed of before they are broken or even worn, long before the end of their actual functional
life (Cox, Griffith, Giorgi & King 2013). Garments have an average lifetime of only three years,
and solely a tiny part gets handled sustainably. A family in the western world throws away 30
kilograms of garments each year, which often ends up in landfill (Charpail 2017). According to
Mistra Future Fashion (n.d), 65 % of the produced textile fibres are lost to landfill as waste.
Thus, understanding consumer behaviour in a fast fashion context is a current and vital issue
today and is needed to improve environmental sustainability.

Who is this consumer, then? A person who is buying, consuming, and disposing of fast fashion,
including the engagement in clothing disposal behaviours affecting the environment. According
to several previous research studies, this consumer is a young person around the ages 18 to 25,
and possibly female (Chaturvedi, Kulshreshtha & Tripathi 2020; Cook & Yurchisin 2016;
Joung 2014; Young Lee et al. 2013; Weber, Lynes & Young 2017). Young people are likely to
purchase inexpensive and trendy clothes due to limited financial resources, their deep concerns
about appearance and the vital role of socialization in their lives (Browne & Kaldenberg 1997;
Joung 2014; Morgan & Birtwistle 2009; O'Cass 2004; Young Lee et al. 2013). Moreover,
women have a high interest in fashion and clothing (O'Cass 2001/2004; Cook & Yurchisin
2017; Morgan & Birtwistle 2009; Young Lee et al. 2013). This young consumer engages in
unsustainable activities in the post-consumption phase when disposing of clothing (Joung 2014;
Mistra Future Fashion n.d; Remy, Speelman & Swartz 2016). Due to the product attributes of
fast fashion, it is consumed and thrown away more than ever before since they get out of style
and breaks fast – often ending up in landfills (ibid). Furthermore, it can be argued that females
in the ages around 18 to 25 are members of Generation Z. People in this generation are born
shortly before and after the year of 2000 (Gazzola, Pavione, Pezzetti & Grechi 2020;
Nationalencyklopedin n.d). They have grown up with technology, making their lifestyle and
consumption habits more global than earlier more traditional and safe-seeking generations
(ibid).

This research study will focus on the female Generation Z consumer's disposal behaviour in a
fast fashion context. As mentioned earlier, Laitala (2014) defines disposal as getting rid of a
piece of clothing – whether it is discarded as waste or taken care of in a sustainable way such

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as recycling. Thus, the disposal phase occurs after the purchase and use phase (Bianchi &
Birtwistle 2010; Laitala 2014). Fashion disposal in this study will be defined in line with this,
making the post-consumption phase the focus. Post-consumption is accordingly defined as the
phase after a garment has been used when clothing disposal takes place. Furthermore, as
consumers' clothing disposal behaviour can be done in either a sustainable or unsustainable
way, it is imperative from an environmental perspective (Laitala 2014). This study will focus
on the consumers' environmentally sustainable behaviour post-consumption in a fast fashion
context. Paradoxically, the nature of this context includes companies that tend to generate a
negative environmental impact.

1.2 Problem Discussion

Environmental sustainability in combination with fashion consumption has been researched
using different perspectives throughout the years. To begin with, studies on intentions and
motivations investigate factors influencing and driving consumers towards sustainable fashion
consumption (e.g. Chaturvedi et al. 2020; Joung & Park-Poaps 2013; McNeill, Hamlin,
McQueen, Degenstein, Wakes, Garrett & Dunn 2020; Wang, Tian, Sarigöllü & Xu 2020).
Moreover, some studies look into consumers' different attitudes towards sustainable
consumption (e.g. Bianchi & Birtwistle 2010; Cook & Yurchisin 2017; Joung 2014).
Furthermore, several research studies are examining consumer behaviour in a fashion
consumption context. Some of them focus on the post-consumption phase and clothing disposal
behaviour. For instance, consumers can participate in unsustainable disposal behaviour post-
consumption (e.g. Bianchi & Birtwistle 2010; Joung 2014; Morgan & Birtwistle 2009). Joung
(2014) finds that young fast fashion consumers are more likely to dispose of or hoard the items
than recycling. Moreover, findings by Morgan and Birtwistle (2009) show that young
consumers are generally uninterested in participating in recycling and exchange of clothing. In
addition, a more recent study by McNeill et al. (2020) proves that young fashion-sensitive
consumers are likely to dispose of non-trendy garments in unsustainable ways.

Moreover, according to earlier research studies, consumers can take part in sustainable disposal
behaviour post-consumption as well, leaving minimal imprint on the environment (e.g. Bianchi
& Birtwistle 2010; Holtström, Bjellerup, & Eriksson 2020; Laitala 2014; Young Lee et al. 2013;
Weber et al. 2017). According to Phulwani, Kumar and Goyal (2020), recycling has become
one of the most critical sustainable behaviours in today's society. Holtström et al. (2020) study

3
the company Houdini Sportswear, where four sustainable post-consumption areas are defined
as recycle, reuse, repair, and rental. In another study, Young Lee et al. (2013) show how young
consumers participate in disposal behaviour, including selling, donating, repurposing and
swapping their unwanted clothing. Furthermore, Laitala (2014) and Bianchi and Birtwistle
(2010) summarises a number of post-consumption activities, such as donating, giving away,
reselling and swapping. Thus, some studies have investigated consumers' sustainable behaviour
post-consumption throughout the years.

Building on existing research literature about consumer post-consumption behaviour, it seems

like it does not provide a complete picture of the issue. Some researchers do not use a specific
fast fashion context (e.g. Bianchi & Birtwistle 2010; Laitala 2014; Joung 2014). However,
examining disposal behaviour in this specific context is particularly important in different ways;
fast fashion consumers unsustainably dispose to a greater degree than others, and fast fashion
companies’ actions widely affect environmental sustainability (Fletcher 2014; Laitala 2014;
Mistra Future Fashion n.d). Moreover, studies on motivation, intentions and attitudes fail to
explain how the consumer performs the various activities as part of their everyday life
behaviour. Furthermore, many existing research studies on consumer disposal behaviour use a
quantitative research strategy (e.g. Bianchi & Birtwistle 2010; Chaturvedi et al. 2020; Cook &
Yurchisin 2017; McNeill et al. 2020; Joung 2014; Weber et al. 2017). Consequently, the current
studies do not create an in-depth understanding of how consumers behave post-consumption.
This study wants to contribute to the existing body of literature by creating a deep understanding
of the practice of sustainable clothing disposal in a fast fashion context.

To create in-depth knowledge of consumers’ sustainable disposal behaviour, practice theory

will be used (e.g. Reckwitz 2002a; Warde 2005; Welch & Warde 2015; Schatzki 1996).
According to the theory, people's thinking, sayings and doings are shaped by citizens, objects
and situational factors (Spaargaren 2011; Welch & Warde 2015). By only studying the
individualistic paradigm, one loses the profound influence of broader interaction chains. These
chains function as systems for designing services that sometimes preconfigure choices and
behaviours of individual citizens. To achieve a deeper understanding, a more balanced approach
is required. An approach that addresses innovations in consumption practices, which refer to
more sustainable ways of ‘sayings’ and ‘doings’. Furthermore, an approach that addresses the
mutual influence and co-shaping of human actors and objects and technological infrastructures.
Spaargaren (2011) argues that a practice-based approach can provide such a balance. Moreover,

4
according to practice theory, a practice can be described as a routinised type of behaviour
consisting of several different activities. For example, several different consumption activities
together create a specific way of consuming (Reckwitz 2002a). In this study, sustainable
behaviour in the post-consumption phase will be the focus, namely sustainable clothing
disposal – a practice containing different sorts of environmentally friendly disposal activities.
From a practice theoretical perspective, consumer behaviour is viewed as something more than
solely the disposal and instead as a part of the consumer's everyday life. A practice is viewed
as a complex interaction between what consumers say and do in a specific context (Fuentes &
Svingstedt 2017; Reckwitz 2002a; Schatzki 1996). Furthermore, practice is dependent on the
existence and interconnection of three different elements: competence, material and meaning
(Shove, Pantzar & Watson 2012). This study will focus on the meanings that drive the practice
of sustainable shopping in a fast fashion context. Meanings are indeed needed to drive a practice
forward, and they are changing depending on time and activity (Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017;
Reckwitz 2002a). Thereby there is space to create a deeper understanding of consumers'
sustainable disposal behaviour today. Studying meanings create a deep understanding of the
practice in the specific context in question.

A practice theoretical perspective can be used to fill the earlier mentioned research gap. To the
best of the authors' knowledge, there is no existing research investigating consumers'
sustainable disposal behaviour as a practice within a fast fashion context. The theory is instead
explored within, for instance, a retail context by Fuentes and Svingstedt (2017), studying the
practice of mobile shopping. In addition, the usage of practice theory has increased in
sustainable consumption studies and, more importantly, sustainable consumption studies
(Welch & Warde 2015). Using a practice theory approach, it is possible to conceptualize a
complex social practice that involves a set of activities and meanings behind it. Hence, a
dynamic understanding of a practice can be achieved as a part of consumers' everyday life
(ibid). Therefore, this study can create a deep knowledge of how consumers behave in words
and deeds when performing the practice of sustainable clothing disposal post-consumption in a
fast fashion context, and which meanings drive this behaviour. Focusing on the actual
performance of the practice means that this study will focus on exploring the activities within
it, for example, recycling and reuse. The performance of the activities will include how, but
also under what circumstances they occur. In addition, if the activity is performed alone or in
connection to others. Moreover, the performance of the practice of sustainable clothing disposal
is connected to the meanings behind it, which are driving the practice. Exploring this will

5
contribute to the existing research literature within sustainable consumer behaviour by
providing a current and in-depth understanding of how the practice is performed and what
meanings can drive individuals to perform post-consumption activities.

This research study will investigate the fast fashion consumer. As mentioned earlier, this
consumer is a female member of Generation Z (Chaturvedi et al. 2020; Cook & Yurchisin 2016;
Gazzola et al. 2020; Joung 2014; Young Lee et al. 2013; Weber et al. 2017). Studying a
particular generation can be important as it has been formed under a specific cultural climate
and through special historical events, which has shaped the individual's way of thinking, feeling
and acting (Gazzola et al. 2020). The female Generation Z consumer is relevant for this study
in different ways. To begin with, a young female in the ages around 18 to 25 is likely to purchase
and consume fast fashion because she has a limited budget and cares about trends and
appearance (Chaturvedi et al. 2020; Cook & Yurchisin 2016; Joung 2014; O'Cass 2004; Young
Lee et al. 2013; Weber et al. 2017). Furthermore, she is a part of the fast fashion context since
she engages in unsustainable disposal activities in the post-consumption phase, affecting the
environment negatively (Joung 2014; Mistra Future Fashion n.d; Remy et al. 2016). Moreover,
a limited number of studies have concluded that young women actually think and act
sustainably in some ways. Joung (2014) shows that young fast fashion consumers have positive
attitudes towards environmental sustainability, but they do not participate in recycling despite
this. In addition, findings by Gazzola et al. (2020) show that women consume in a more
sustainable way than men. It is possible to argue that the inconsistent research findings make it
even more interesting and relevant to create a deep understanding of how females in Generation
Z behave in the post-consumption phase. It can be argued that young female consumers drive
the fast fashion industry, since the companies adapt to their customers (Burns & Mullet 2020).
Since fast fashion companies are highly environmentally unsustainable, the consumers who
purchase from these companies can be considered environmentally unsustainable. It is therefore
essential and relevant to create knowledge about the consumer group in question. This study
will investigate the behaviour of females in Generation Z; to create an understanding of how
they engage in sustainable clothing disposal in a fast fashion context and what meanings lie
behind it.

6
As a result of this background description and problem discussion, it can be stated that there is
a knowledge gap in current research regarding sustainable clothing disposal. A limited number
of research studies examine fast fashion consumption from a perspective that focuses on
understanding how consumers perform sustainable shopping activities post-consumption from
a practice theory perspective. More specifically, how they perform these disposal activities in
word and deed as part of their everyday lives. Furthermore, most of the current research
focusing on consumers’ disposal behaviour use a quantitative research strategy and do not
contribute to a deeper understanding of how fast fashion consumers behave when performing
sustainable clothing disposal activities. This study will examine how young female consumers
carry out sustainable clothing disposal activities post-consumption and which meanings drive
the overall disposal practice. This is intended to contribute to a current and in-depth
understanding of consumers' engagement in sustainable clothing disposal activities after the use
phase, and the meaning-making that drives it.

1.3 Purpose and Research Questions

This research study aims to contribute to and deepen current research regarding sustainable
clothing disposal behaviour in a fashion context. The purpose of the study is to contribute with
a current understanding of the practice of sustainable clothing disposal by developing
knowledge about how consumers perform disposal activities post-consumption, as well as
looking at the meanings driving the behaviour. In addition, the study wants to contribute with
a current understanding of how specifically young female consumers carry out the activities in
a fast fashion context. Thus, it is relevant to examine how this consumer group performs
activities. To achieve the purpose, the following research questions are used to guide the
research:

• How are sustainable clothing disposal activities performed post-consumption in a fast

fashion context?
• What meanings do consumers attribute to the practice?

7
1.4 Delimitations
This research study investigates Swedish female Generation Z consumers' sustainable clothing
disposal activities performed post-consumption (as described in chapter 1.1 Background),
thereby not activities performed before and during the purchase and use phase. As mentioned
earlier, many different activities can occur post-consumption, and this study will focus on
sustainable ones. Furthermore, the study is limited to focus on environmental sustainability and
not social and economic sustainability. The research will be conducted in a fast fashion context,
which indeed involves companies and consumer behaviour with an extensive negative impact
on the environment (Burns & Mullet 2020; Fletcher 2014; Joung 2014; Laitala 2014). Lastly,
using a practice theory approach, this study will focus on the meanings driving a practice. As
mentioned earlier, practice theory includes three elements; competence, material and meanings
(Shove et al. 2012).

1.5 Disposition
This research study begins with an outline of the theoretical framework of sustainable clothing
disposal behaviour and a presentation of practice theory. In this regard, the three elements that
enable, shape and drive shopping will be presented. After this, the qualitative research strategy
and the methodology used in the study are described and justified. Then follows an analysis
where the theoretical framework is connected to the empirical material, consisting of
transcribed interviews. The analysis focuses on how the consumer group in question performs
the practice of sustainable clothing disposal and the meanings that drive it. Finally, a discussion
of the study's contribution to existing research is held and the conclusions are presented together
with the studies limitations and proposals for future studies.

8
 Theoretic Framework

2.1 Practice Theory

Practice theory has been used in research for over 40 years. To begin with, a historical and
theoretical introduction of practice theory will be presented. Practice theory has roots from the
philosophy by Heidegger and Wittgenstein, and social scientific roots from Bourdieu, Giddens,
late Foucault and Butler (Halkier, Katz-Gerro & Martens 2011). The sociologists Bourdieu
(1977) introduced concepts such as practice, habitus and field, and Giddens (1984) reformulated
the concepts of structure, system and agency (Spaargaren 2011). What is valuable from their
research is their contribution to understanding social life as a series of recursive methods. These
methods are performed by human agents, which are based on sets of resources and virtual rules
linked to social practice. Methods are emphasized as ‘shared behavioural routines’, and
therefore the individual is no longer at the centre. Practices produce and co-constitute
individuals' values, knowledge and abilities, and these practices instead become the essential
part for analysis (ibid).

The insights from this early description of practice theory have developed into a more complex
philosophical ontology of methods (Halkier et al. 2011). In the 1990s and 2000s, practice theory
was reformulated by Shatazki (1996 & 2002) and Reckwitz (2002b), contributing with useful
theoretical mapping. Reckwitz chose to shed light on the routinised character of practice.
Furthermore, he acknowledges that technology has a significant role in human freedom of
action and that objects and their effect are central to the performance. In contrast, Shatazki
(1996) argued that objects are outcomes of practices which caused problems for publishers in
social and cultural consumption where the use and enjoyment of objects was central (Halkier
et al. 2011; Spaargaren 2011). Additionally, to Reckwitz centralization of objects, Shove et. al
(2012) uses meanings as an equally central part by introducing three key concepts for practice
theory: competence, material and meaning. When Reckwitz (2002a) developed practice theory,
the principles of these perspectives had already been used in gender, science and organisational
studies. Thereafter, the theory spread into areas such as anthropology, cultural studies,
marketing and consumer behaviour, media, and health (Halkier et al. 2011).

Furthermore, Warde (2005) is considered to have contributed with the first programmatic
application of practice theory in consumption (Halkier et al. 2011; Welch & Warde 2015). His

9
theoretical framework has been applied in research areas such as technology, resource
consumption and sustainability issues (Halkier et al. 2011). For example, Shove (e.g. 2004) and
Spaargaren (2011) have applied the framework of Warde in sustainability-oriented research. In
most articles after 2005, as quoted by Warde, Halkier et al. (2011) note that few primarily
engage in practice theory. Of those who do so, only a few offer an empirical reflection (ibid).

The approach views a practice as a routinised behaviour that consists of a number of activities
(Reckwitz 2002a; Shove et al. 2012). Thus, a practice is a complex interaction between what
consumers say and do in a specific context in their life. As mentioned, Shove and colleagues
focus on the three elements competence, material and meaning – and the interconnection
between them. This study will follow these elements, which simplifies practice theory and is
more suitable for empirical analysis (Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017). As previously stated, this
research study will investigate the practice of sustainable clothing disposal and the meanings
driving it. This practice consists of several activities, which will be elaborated in chapter 2.2
Sustainable Clothing Disposal Activities. The three elements, with emphasis on meaning, will
be described further in chapter 2.1.2 The Creation of Meaning in Sustainable Clothing
Disposal.

2.1.1 Sustainable Clothing Disposal as a Practice

In practice theory, the attention is drawn away from the individual decision-making and instead
drawn towards the doing of social practices (Beatson, Gottlieb & Pleming 2020; Hargreaves
2011). The focus lies on the practice itself and the habit, routine and implicit knowledge
involved in the activities. The individual acts as a carrier of a practice, and practice require
performance for its existence. The performance will depend on the individual's past
experiences, available resources, encouragement by people around them, technical knowledge
and learnings (Warde 2005). Furthermore, practices are social and shared in nature rather than
individual (Beatson et al. 2020; Reckwitz 2002a).

It is essential to understand the differences between practice as a singular and practices in the
sense of a theory of social practices (Reckwitz 2002a). Practice can be used to describe the
whole of human action. However, in practice theory, practice is a routinised behaviour in which
objects are handled, and subjects are treated. Practices are interconnected and are an implicit
way of knowing, saying and doing things (Warde 2005). The practice also consists of various

10
activities that together create a way of performing the practice (Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017).
For example, different consumption activities together create a specific way of consuming. For
this study, it means that sustainable clothing disposal is seen as a practice that includes a series
of disposal activities, which will be described in chapter 2.2 Sustainable clothing disposal
activities. In addition, clothing disposal is further dependent on, among other things, meaning,
which drives the performance of the practice.

From a practice theoretical perspective, the concept of clothing disposal is a practice that
includes several different activities that focus on eliminating clothing, which thus includes a
broader meaning than just getting rid of something. Fuentes and Svingstedt (2017) use practice
theory in their research to get a deeper understanding of mobile shopping and its users.
Similarly, in this study, the practice of sustainable clothing disposal and consumers will be
studied to achieve a deeper understanding. Furthermore, using a practice theoretical perspective
means that the practice is treated as social, which can be described as consumers' routine
behaviour in words and actions and as a practice that takes place alongside other consumers
and their social activities (ibid). Hence, sustainable clothing disposal is part of consumers'
everyday lives. In this study, the practice of clothing disposal can consequently be seen as part
of the consumer's everyday context, which takes place alongside other consumers and activities.
This provides insight into the conceivable complexity of a practice.

2.1.2 The Creation of Meaning in Sustainable Clothing Disposal

As previously described, three elements – competence, material and meaning – are highlighted
in practice theory, which together with the individual create a practice (Shove et al. 2012).
These elements are described differently in the literature, where for example, Reckwitz (2002a)
uses several elements such as forms of bodily activities, mental activities and states of emotions.
However, as mentioned earlier, this study will follow the elements introduced by Shove and
colleagues, which simplifies practice theory and is more suitable for empirical analysis (Fuentes
& Svingstedt 2017; Shove et al. 2012). All these elements contribute to enable, drive and shape
a practice (ibid). The interconnection between the elements in the practice of sustainable
clothing disposal is shown in Figure 1 below.

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 Figure 1. The elements of Sustainable Clothing Disposal (Based on Shove et al. 2012)

Meanings can be described as the importance or significance of practice for a particular

individual in a certain context (Bäckström 2010). Meanings are changeable and can shift
depending on the time and what activity is performed. This depends on the consumer's different
perceptions and what benefits can be generated (Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017). There are
currently no studies on the meaning-making of disposal activities in a fast fashion context to
the author's knowledge. However, Fuentes and Svingstedt (2017) use the three elements to
describe meaning-making in mobile shopping, Hargreaves (2011) in their research of pro-
environmental behaviour change, and Beatson et al. (2020) in their research of green
consumption practices. Activities can be meaningful for an individual in different ways in
different contexts (Bäckström 2010; Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017). Meaning can, for example,
be an understanding of society and how long it takes to break down different materials (Beatson
et al. 2020; Hargreaves 2011).

As for the other two elements; Shove et al. (2012) describes material as objects, tools,
infrastructure or the body itself that is needed to enable a practice. Materials can in a sustainable
clothing disposal activity be for example a container for textile waste (Beatson et al. 2020;
Hargreaves 2011). Another example of material can be technology, including for instance a
functioning mobile phone and IT infrastructure (Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017). Furthermore,
competence is described by Fuentes and Svingstedt (2017) as the qualifications a consumer
needs to understand and use the material. For instance, knowledge of how a mobile phone
function and how shopping can be performed (ibid). Competence is also essential when
performing sustainable disposal activities, partly because the technology covers a large area for

12
performing the various activities and because knowledge is needed to know what can be
recycled (Beatson et al. 2020; Hargreaves 2011). All elements mentioned, this research study
will continue to follow the purpose and focus on meanings.

Different activities will create different meanings for the individual. Beatson et al. (2020)
describe consumers will purchase and dispose of products when meanings make them feel good
about the process. For example, activities can be social and a way to spend time with friends
and family, which in turn can create joy and satisfaction (Bäckström 2010; Fuentes &
Svingstedt 2017). Joung (2014) and Young Lee et al. (2013) describes how consumers can
alleviate feelings of guilt by cleaning out their closets. Consumers may have guilt from
purchasing items they have not frequently used, and therefore, by donating the items to people
in need, the feelings of guilt can alleviate (Joung 2014). In addition to this, utilitarian value can
also be created for the consumer through more closet space (Young Lee et al. 2013). Donating
can also create hedonic value and feelings of usefulness. By giving clothes to less fortunate
consumers can perceive positive feelings such as happiness and excitement. Giving something
to a friend or family can also create joy and an improved bound to them, which further creates
meaning (ibid). Young Lee et al. (2013) also shows in their study that consumers feel good
when they can get back some of their invested money through disposal activities such as selling.
Furthermore, functional factors are perceived as meaningful when they are quick and easy to
use (Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017; Spaid & Flint 2014).

Finally, this research study aims to contribute to the existing body of research by establishing
a current understanding of the meanings driving the practice of sustainable clothing disposal.
As mentioned, meaning-making can shift depending on time and activity (Fuentes & Svingstedt
2017). Hence, this study provides a specific understanding of meaning-making. That is, for
female Generation Z consumers during the post-consumption phase in a fast fashion context.

13
2.2 Sustainable Clothing Disposal Activities
As mentioned earlier, fast fashion clothing is characterised as trendy and inexpensive.
Consumers tend to get tired of them quickly since they go out of fashion fast, and low price
equals low quality. Consumers throw away the items soon after purchase, and they end up in
landfills which negatively affect the environment (Fletcher 2014; Joung 2014; Mistra Future
Fashion n.d). However, some environmentally sustainable activities can be performed by the
consumer post-consumption instead of the garments ending up as waste.

What influences the consumers’ choice in disposal practices has in previous research been
described in different but similar ways. In general, research uses the two terms absolute
obsolescence and relative obsolescence (Laitala 2014). Absolute obsolescence means products
that have reached the end of their life cycle and are no longer customary. Relative obsolescence
means products that are still functional and customary but that the consumer gets rid of for other
reasons (ibid). These reasons can be, for example, psychological characteristics, factors
intrinsic and situational factors extrinsic (Weber et al. 2017). These factors can also occur in
parallel and overlap with each other. Psychological influence, or symbolic obsolescence,
implicate factors such as the consumer's personality traits and attitudes. It can be consumers'
attitudes to fashion that affect the demand and enjoyment of shopping and new products, which
further drives and influences the choices made in disposal activities. Factors related to the
product itself also affect the consumer's choice, such as the product's condition or style. External
situational factors can also affect such as too little space in the closet or lack of financial means,
which requires products to be sold out of the closet (ibid).

Several different activities are brought up in earlier research studies, investigating mainly young
consumers’ sustainable disposal behaviour post-consumption. In general, three different
outcomes can be described based on previous research: to keep the product, get rid of the
product permanently, or temporarily get rid of the product (Jacoby et al. 1977; Laitala 2014;
Young Lee et al. 2013; Weber et al. 2017). These categories further consist of several different
disposal activities. Keeping a product may mean that the consumer chooses to put it away to
find it for use again at another time. Consumers may also choose to keep clothes, even if they
are absolute obsolescence, by, for example, hoarding them in a storage room (Laitala 2014).
Hoarding can hence be described as a failure to discard something, and instead, it becomes a
possession of a useless garment that has lost its value (Joung 2014). Therefore, it can be argued

14
that this is not a sustainable disposal activity. However, consumers can also choose to prepare
the clothes for reuse by repairing, redesigning or repurpose them (Laitala 2014; Young Lee et
al. 2013). Redesigning can be done by the consumer him-/herself or by help from other
companies such as H&M, which has a service where they help consumers redo their unwanted
garments according to their wishes (H&M Re:make 2021). Repurpose means that the consumer
turns the garment into something else, for example, cleaning rags (Laitala 2014). Consumers
also choose to repair damaged clothes so they can be used again (ibid).

By permanently disposing of a product, the consumer can choose to donate the product to
charity or friends and family, recycle the product, sell the product, abandon it or exchange it
(Laitala 2014; Bianchi & Birtwistle 2010; Young Lee et al. 2013). Donation means that clothes
are given away, without profit, to charity (Laitala 2014; Young Lee et al. 2013). A consumer
can do this by going to organisations that collect disposed clothes (Bianchi & Birtwistle 2010).
A consumer can also choose to give the clothes to second-hand stores (Young Lee et al. 2013).
The organisations further sort and handle the clothes and either give the clothes to others in
need or resell them (Bianchi & Birtwistle 2010). Consumers can also choose to recycle their
clothes by going to a recycling centre with specific containers for textiles (Ekström &
Salomonson 2014). They can also hand in clothes for recycling by going to different retailers
with 'take-back’ programs that allow consumers to return old garments (Bianchi & Birtwistle
2010; Laitala 2014; Phulwani et al. 2020; Weber et al. 2017). Giving away means that the
consumer gives away clothes to friends, family or acquaintances without financial gain (Laitala
2014). This activity and the repurpose of clothes have been treated differently in literature.
Weber et al. (2017) do not see this as a disposal activity but as a kind of extended personal use.
However, most researchers have treated it as a disposal activity and will therefore be treated as
such in this study (Birtwistle & Moore 2007; Joung & Park-Poaps 2013; Young Lee et al. 2013;
Joung 2014). Many garments are also being thrown away as waste, which has been described
earlier in chapter 1.1 Background, as a significant environmental problem. Consumers choose
to bin products that are of no use for others due to stains and damages or because the amount
of out-sorted clothes are too small to make an effort to donate or recycle (Laitala 2014).
However, this activity does not count as a sustainable one which is the focus of this study.

Furthermore, the consumer can also choose to resell their clothes for financial means through,
for example, flea markets, auction sites, garage sales or other sales channels (Laitala 2014;
Young Lee et al. 2013). There are also organisations such as Sellpy, who pick up clothes from

15
the consumers’ residence, and then resells them on their website to share the sold value (Sellpy
n.d). Swapping is also a practice that involves consumers changing clothes with each other
(Laitala 2014; Young Lee et al. 2013; Weber et al. 2017). This can, for example, be large events,
like "swap-parties", where consumers bring their old clothes with them and exchange them for
others through another consumer (Young Lee et al. 2013). According to Weber et al. (2017),
swapping has been challenging to define as a disposal practice in previous literature, as it has
also been seen as a new way of shopping. However, even if the consumers does not find clothes
to exchange into, it is a way to get rid of old clothes, and the garments that are not changed
often end up at charity after such events (ibid). Therefore, this practice will be classified as a
sustainable disposal activity. Many of the mentioned activities can also fall under the category
of recycling as a collective word, for example, repair, reuse, resell or donation (Phulwani et al.
2020; Joung 2014). Furthermore, according to Laitala (2014) some consumers do not
distinguish between recycling and reuse, as recycle means turning waste into a new product that
enables reuse. However, in this study, recycling will be seen as an activity where consumers
hand in their clothes for the purpose of recycling, as described earlier in this chapter.

Temporary disposing includes activities such as lending or renting out a product (Laitala 2014).
This is a temporary activity as the consumer lends or rents the product to another consumer for
a limited time and then receive back the product. This activity can be done privately, either at
a cost or for free to friends and family (ibid). It can also be done by help from other companies
such as Gemme Collective, which allows customers to rent out their clothes to other consumers
through their website (Gemmecollective 2021)

16
 Methodology

3.1 A Qualitative Research Approach

This research study aims to create further understanding and deeper knowledge of how fast
fashion consumers perform sustainable clothing disposal activities, as well as identify the
meanings behind such acts. Therefore, a qualitative research strategy has been chosen for this
study. Qualitative research is recognised by the ability to create a deep and nuanced
understanding of social reality and the actors within it. It is established by looking through the
perspective of the studied actors. This type of understanding cannot be achieved using numbers
in a quantitative research study (Bryman 2016). Indeed, other studies using practice theory have
used a qualitative research strategy too due to the complex and dynamic nature of a social
practice performed by social actors in their social reality (e.g. Beatson et al. 2020; Fuentes &
Svingstedt 2017; Gram-Hanssen 2010; Hargreaves 2011). In addition, the empirical material is
characterised by both breadth and depth when it has been collected using qualitative methods.

Furthermore, this study is characterised by interpretivism and constructionism, which are

common approaches in a qualitative research strategy (Bryman 2016). An interpretivist
epistemology is based on the interpretation of human behaviour; knowledge is achieved by
interpreting peoples' social actions in their social reality. Moreover, a constructionist ontology
describes the earlier mentioned social reality – viewed as changeable and created and influenced
by the social actors within it (Bryman 2016; Kawamura 2020). Consequently, an interpretive
and constructive study means that the focus lies on understanding the social reality with the
help of the participants' perceptions and interpretations of a particular context. In this case, it
means that the study provides a nuanced understanding of the practice of sustainable clothing
disposal and the meanings that drive it, using Generation Z's interpretations of their behaviour.
The result accordingly consists of an interpretation of the social reality that the participants in
the current study perceive. Hence, the result may differ depending on which individuals are
studied and the interpretation made by them.

17
Theories are significant and present in different ways in research strategies (Bryman 2016;
Kawamura 2020). It can provide a setting for a study and a framework for social phenomena
where research findings can be understood and implied (ibid). In this study, the relationship
between theory and research is abductive. Abduction is common in qualitative research and
emphasises the importance of interpreting the social world from the perspective of the people
being studied (Bryman 2016; Tavory & Timmermans 2014). A theory is thereby created from
understanding the studied people, which is similar to an inductive approach where theory is
generated from the research result. However, in an abductive approach, the deduction is present
as well – meaning that a study is based on and revises existing theory (Bryman 2016; Kawamura
2020). For this study, an abductive approach means that the results regarding how consumers
perform sustainable clothing disposal and which meanings driving them will create new
theoretical understanding within the research area. The deductive elements appear in that the
interview guide and analysis are to some extent based on previous research on sustainable
clothing disposal activities and practice theory.

3.2 Research Sample

This research study wants to explore and understand females from Generation Z. To select
participants from this consumer group, a purposive sampling approach was used, which is most
common for qualitative research. In this type of sampling, participants are chosen because they
are relevant to the purpose and research question of a study (Bryman 2016). Looking at the
purpose and research questions for this study, a relevant participant is characterised by several
specific criteria. First, the participant needs to be female and born around the year 2000. Second,
she needs to buy and consume fast fashion. Third, the consumer needs to have basic knowledge
about environmental sustainability and engage in disposal activities considering this aspect.
This include for instance the knowledge of that it is better for the environment to recycle than
to discard garments as waste. A purposive criterion sampling was conducted because of the set
participant profile, which means choosing participants because they meet particular criteria
(Bryman 2016).

When locating and contacting participants for a research study, it is common to use private
sources such as friends, relatives and other personal contacts (Taylor, Bogdan & DeVault 2015).
Indeed, in this study, the researchers were familiar with the participants ahead of the study.
Since the researchers have had contact with them before, they could easily be contacted through

18
text or email. Moreover, the participants were contacted gradually since it is not possible to
decide the number of participants beforehand (Taylor et al. 2015). To ensure the set participant
criteria were met, the contacted females had to answer opening questions, which confirmed
them as suitable before the actual interview. We use the exception of one participant, who stated
she did not consider herself suitable for the study.

There are different views on what is an appropriate sample size in qualitative research.
According to research, sample size cannot be decided beforehand (Bryman 2016; Taylor et al.
2015). Theoretical saturation is one argument here: sampling should be continued until no
further information is emerging regarding a category, or the category shows well-developed
variations. However, it is extremely difficult to decide how and when the saturation occurs
(Bryman 2016; Merriam & Tisdall 2015; Taylor et al. 2015). In the current study, clear patterns
in the material were revealed after ten interviews. The material was not scattered, and no new
ground-breaking information emerged after the accomplished interviews with the selected
participants. Thereby the sample size was decided. In addition, the sample size for this study
was restricted by the limited resources in terms of time and number of researchers. Furthermore,
qualitative sampling sizes have been criticised by quantitative researchers since they often are
conducted on a small number of people compared to, for example, quantitative questionnaires.
This means that the findings based on the participants are not transferable to an entire population
or another setting. However, qualitative findings are not supposed to be generalisable to a whole
population, according to Bryman (2016), but to generalise to theory. Purposive sampling is
advantageous since it puts the research questions in focus, letting them decide which
participants should be used (ibid). In addition, using theoretical and analytic generalisation, the
researchers can use the research result to guide the generated theoretical arguments. The quality
of this formation of theory from the findings is thus more crucial in qualitative research, which
connects to an inductive research approach (Bryman 2016). In this study, the emphasis lies on
how well the theoretical contribution is supported by the findings.

3.3 Qualitative Interviews

The chosen research method to collect empirical material for this study is qualitative interviews.
Qualitative interviews focus on peoples’ experiences and world of life, which can create a deep
understanding and knowledge within a research area (Bryman 2016; Kvale & Brinkmann 2014;
Taylor et al. 2015). Thus, the method is relevant to use to deepen the current knowledge about

19
Generation Z's sustainable clothing disposal. Many previous research studies on consumers
disposal behaviour are quantitative and use questionnaires to collect data (Bianchi & Birtwistle
2010; Chaturvedi et al. 2020; Cook & Yurchisin 2017; McNeill et al. 2020; Joung 2014; Weber
et al. 2017). However, using questionnaires emphasises quantity and not deepening existing
knowledge and creating a nuanced understanding of individuals (Bryman 2016). Moreover,
other qualitative method choices are available, such as focus groups or group interviews
(Bryman 2016; Kawamura 2020). However, studying and interpreting people in the form of
group members is not relevant to this study, as it is interested in individuals' perceptions and
interpretations of the topic in question. Therefore, observations, where individuals are observed
during a period of time, and possibly listened to as well, can be excluded as well (Bryman 2016;
Kawamura 2020). Consequently, other methods than qualitative interviews are not relevant for
collecting empirical material for this study, aiming to deepen existing knowledge and create a
deep understanding of how Generation Z behave and what drives sustainable clothing disposal
activities.

More specifically, the empirical material in this study was collected through ten semi-structured
interviews. This interview form is flexible and dynamic and allows the participants’ perspective
to reach the surface (Taylor et al. 2015). At the same time, semi-structured interviews are not
entirely unstructured but controlled to some extent with the help of an interview guide. An
interview guide consists of a predetermined structure, for example different themes or subjects,
that governs the course of the interview (Taylor et al. 2015; Kawamura 2020). However,
interviews can depart from the guide since they are dynamic. The interviewer must be aware
that participants can change the direction of the topic and be ready to improvise and follow up
with supplementary questions (ibid). The interview guide used for the interviews in this
research study can be found in Appendix 2.

The guide was used to make the conversations flow smoothly and make the interviews similar
so that the same amount of information was gathered for all the different disposal activities
investigated. The predetermined topics and questions in the guide were based on the sustainable
disposal activities mentioned in chapter 2.2 Sustainable clothing disposal activities. The guide
also sought to clarify which meanings drive the activities by going into the background of the
practice and how contexts, feelings, and conditions could be linked to the consumers’ disposal
behaviour. To test whether the guide and the questions were understandable for the participants,
a pilot interview was conducted with a close relative of the researchers. Thus, certain details

20
could be refined. Furthermore, all topics in the guide were addressed during each of the
interviews, although some participants controlled the conversation more than others. Here, the
interviewers followed up with further questions to gain a deeper understanding of the
participant's social reality.

The ten interviews used in this research study were conducted from the 2nd to the 5th of May
2021. They lasted between 45 to 60 minutes each and were directed and recorded by the
interviewer. Present at the interview occasion was both a participant and an interviewer –
talking either face-to-face or over the phone because of geographical distance and the current
covid-19 pandemic. The participants, all with Swedish nationality, were selected according to
the sampling process described earlier and are presented in Table 1 below with fictitious names.

Table 1. Information about the participants and interviews

Fictitious Name Gender Year of Birth Date of Interview Duration

Rebecca Female 1995 4th of May 2021 55 minutes

Elsa Female 1995 5th of May 2021 45 minutes

Bianca Female 1996 2nd May 2021 58 minutes

Molly Female 1997 2nd of May 2021 65 minutes

Stella Female 1997 2nd of May 20201 48 minutes

Pauline Female 1998 2nd May 2021 57 minutes

Alice Female 1998 2nd May 2021 50 minutes

Emelie Female 2000 3rd of May 2021 58 minutes

Olivia Female 2002 4th of May 2021 65 minutes

Charlie Female 2003 2nd of May 2021 53 minutes

After the interviews were completed, they were transcribed from speech to writing. This is a
time-consuming but important task since researchers get to know the material. Thereby a good
foundation for the upcoming analysis is created (Merriam & Tisdell 2015). A transcribed
material gives researchers an overview of the collected empirical material and makes it possible
to see different patterns. However, voices, intonations, and tropes are lost when conversations
are written out (Kvale & Brinkmann 2014). The participants' laughter and reactions were taken
into account but sounds like "eh" were omitted because they are not relevant to the analysis.

21
3.4 Analysis of Qualitative Material
The gathered empirical material used as a basis for the analysis consist of ten transcribed
interviews. However, according to Merriam and Tisdell (2015), the analysis work begins
already during the data collection and transcription process, when researchers first come in
contact with the material and insights and hunches emerge. After the interviews and
transcription, the material in this study was analysed according to Rennstam and Wästerfors
(2015) three analytic steps; sort, reduce and argue, to create theory from qualitative empirical
material. Sorting the material creates a good overview of it. Qualitative material is often in
disarray from the beginning; thus, it needs to be organised for researchers to distinguish
important details and parts (ibid). In this study, the sorting process meant the researchers got to
know the material by reading it repeatedly. This created a good overview of the participants'
answers, as well as their possible similarities and differences.

Furthermore, reducing qualitative material implicates the compression of it (Rennstam &

Wästerfors 2015). The total gathered material cannot be presented in a study; instead, it needs
to focus on the relevant parts. The reduction can be performed repeatedly using categorisation
or coding, which means selecting different words or phrases in the transcription that can be
labelled to divide the material into different parts (Bryman 2016; Merriam & Tisdell 2015;
Rennstam & Wästerfors 2015). In this study, the material was divided into different parts and
categories relevant for the purpose and research questions. In this way, relevant parts were
distinguished and coded. For example, segments in the transcription that described how the
participants perform a sustainable clothing disposal activity was a relevant part that got assigned
to a specific category. Parts that described what value they saw in the activity was suitable as
well. Moreover, irrelevant parts were, for example, when participants talked about
unsustainable clothing disposal activities or mentioned luxury clothing in their answers. Finally,
argumentation means to convincingly argue towards other scientists and creates new relevant
theory based on the collected, sorted, and reduced material (Rennstam & Wästerfors 2015). In
this study, argumentation on the reduced material was conducted based on the problem
discussion, purpose and research questions. In this way, the study wants to generate new theory
by investigating the practice of sustainable clothing disposal performed by Generation Z and
what meanings drive their behaviour.

22
3.5 Research Quality
The quality of a qualitative study can be judged or evaluated according to the criteria of
trustworthiness. Trustworthiness contains the four sub-criteria: credibility, transferability,
dependability and confirmability (Bryman 2016; Merriam & Tisdell 2015). All these were
present in this research study, where quality is highly valued. To begin with, a research study
is credible if its description of the social reality investigated is accepted by the ones taking part
in the study (Bryman 2016; Merriam & Tisdell 2015). Credibility is achieved if researchers
follow principles of good practice and if the research findings are approved by participants
whose social reality has been studied. It is important that the researchers have understood and
described their world correctly (ibid). In this study, the research process was in line with
established principles and the results and findings were conveyed and approved by the ten
participants.

Qualitative research studies focus on the contextual uniqueness. Transferability is about if the
research findings are transferable to another time or context (Bryman 2016; Merriam & Tisdell
2015). That is, a result could not be applicable to another setting. In this study, the researchers
are aware that the results may differ depending on whether the research is conducted in different
countries or cultures. To ensure transferability, researchers should provide rich and thick
descriptions of the research process, which make it possible for others to examine if the results
are bound to a contextual uniqueness or not (ibid). In this study, a detailed description is
provided – making it possible to test the transferability of the findings to another time or context.

A research study is dependable if an auditing approach is present in the research process

(Bryman 2016). Descriptions of the research process should be open for the public to view, and
it is furthermore beneficial to enlist the help of outsiders who can review the text during the
work process (Bryman 2016; Merriam & Tisdell 2015). In this study, dependability and thereby
quality is ensured by giving a detailed description of the research’s methodology and
participating in a systematic peer review process, where other students read and give feedback
on the text during the research process. In addition, the work process has had the presence of a
supervisor who contributes with support.

Confirmability is about the possibility to strengthen and confirm the research process and
findings (Bryman 2016). This criterion is ensured if the researchers strive to act in good faith.

23
It is not possible to be completely objective in the research process, but the researcher should
strive not to allow personal values and biases to affect the study and its result (Bryman 2016;
Kawamura 2020). In this study, researchers have been aware of their own impact on the result,
always trying to eye the work critically. Moreover, as mentioned earlier, the research process
was reviewed by outsiders, which is a way to avoid researchers' personal values affecting the
research (Bryman 2016).

3.6 Research Ethics

Ethical principles have been an essential part of the research process for this study. According
to Bryman (2016), there are different issues that researchers could take into consideration
during the course of their work to ensure an ethical research process. In this study, several of
them are utilised. An informed consent form (Appendix 1) is assigned to the participants before
the interviews are held. An informed consent contains information about the purpose of the
study and the benefits and possible risks that participation may entail (Bryman 2016; Kvale &
Brinkmann 2014). It also means that participants are informed that they participate voluntarily
in the study and have the right to terminate their participation at any time. In addition,
participants are informed about what the material will be used for and who will take part of it
(ibid).

In this study, the confidentiality and privacy of the participants are important to protect so that
they will not be harmed. This means that the participants' privacy must be protected and also
that they agree on what is to happen to the material created by the participant and the researcher
during the interview (Bryman 2016; Kvale & Brinkmann 2014; Merriam & Tisdall 2015).
According to agreements with the participants who participated in this study, their anonymity
is valued, and they are only named with fictitious names, gender, year of birth and nationality.
In addition, the participants are informed that the recorded material will be deleted after the
research study has been completed and the thesis approved. It is essential that the participants
feel safe and protected so that they give their true answers and dare to float out in their
interpretations of the social reality they live in.

24
 Analysis

The purpose of this study is to contribute to and deepen the existing research on consumers’
sustainable disposal behaviour, by creating current understanding of how female Generation Z
consumers perform the practice of sustainable clothing disposal, and the meanings driving it.
In the following analysis, the gathered empirical material is presented and analysed in relation
to practice theory and the existing theoretical framework on the topic of sustainable clothing
disposal. In the first part of the chapter, an analysis of how Generation Z perform the activities
within the practice of sustainable clothing disposal is revealed. Furthermore, the results
regarding what meanings driving the practice is presented and analysed in the second part of
the chapter.

4.1 Sustainable Clothing Disposal Activities

4.1.1 Sort
The results from the interviews reveal that the sustainable disposal behaviour for all participants
begin with a sorting process. “It all starts with me doing a cleansing and sorting my clothes”,
Charlie points out. The sorting occurs once or a few times a year, when the participants go
through their closets. “I clean out my closet maybe once a year or something. Often when there
is a shift between different seasons'', Pauline says. Olivia further explains: “In fact, you should
get rid of clothes that you have not used in a year. I might wait two or three years haha. But if
I know I have a lot of clothes in my closet that I do not use and that take up space, then I want
to clean''. The sorting process seems to be similar for the participants, where the fast fashion
clothes they want to dispose of are divided into different piles depending on what to keep and
what to dispose of in different ways. Molly describes her sorting:

A few times a year I clean the closet. So, I divide my clothes into piles depending on what
is going where. Things that I do not value, or have monetary value, go to Sellpy. With
them I do not have to do much myself, they will take care of it. Clothes I think is in better
condition, I usually leave to Arkivet, or some other second-hand store. And other stuff
which I like the material of, or some details on, I put in a pile that I can use later to change

25
 or use the fabric for something else. Sew it myself. So those are the three categories that
I sort into, or no I give the clothes to friends and my sisters too. (Molly)

Every participant seems to have this system of piles; different kinds of disposal activities are
chosen depending on the criteria of the clothes. For example, the condition of the garment or
the sentimental value to it. Pauline explains her criteria:

When was the last time I used this? Can I use this in any new way? If not, I get rid of it.
And I usually think; do I get a little warm in my body from seeing this garment? Is that
something I really like? Then I keep it. (Pauline)

Altogether, the empirical material reveals how sorting is performed as a part of the participants
lives. The activity occurs a few times a year, when the young females are cleaning out their
closets, and is based on criteria and pile systems. Earlier research describes that disposal
behaviour can have different outcomes; there are different activities that can be performed to
keep or get rid of a product (Laitala 2014; Young Lee et al. 2013; Weber et al. 2017). However,
there seems to be inadequate understanding of how the disposal process begins, and sorting has
not earlier been included as a disposal behaviour. Furthermore, since this study shows that many
of the activities begin in sorting specifically – the activity is admitted as a pre-disposal activity.
Consequently, this study provides insight into how female Generation Z members' disposal
process begins, by revealing and describing the participants’ sorting process as a routinised
behaviour in their everyday life.

4.1.2 Recycle
Recycling is a common activity that is performed in many different ways according to the
results of this study. As a rule, broken or dirty clothes that are absolute obsolescence, are handed
in for recycling. Pauline, Rebecca, Stella and Alice put these garments into plastic bags, without
folding them, and bring them to a local recycling box. Moreover, Rebecca, Charlie, Emelie and
Bianca state they use H&M’s ‘take-back’ system with boxes for recycling, where they receive
a discount check as a part of the activity. This is exemplified by Emelie:

I collect the worn out or broken garments in a plastic bag and bring them to a clothing
collection. I do not know where to take them, so I have taken them to H&M stores, where
you can hand them in. Then you do not really know what H&M does with them, but I have

26
 taken them there, and for that H&M give me a discount check of 50 SEK if I shop for 300.
(Emelie)

Bianca too brings clothes to H&M’s clothing collection boxes in store, even though she is
unaware of where the clothes end up: “However, I want to get better at checking out the
organisation in question to which I choose to donate the clothes”. Elsa, on the other hand, knows
exactly what will happen to the clothes she recycles to a specific organisation: “I feel it is
important to know what will happen to the clothes after I have used the clothes, and bothered
to pack and bring them to a recycling box”.

Some of the participants however do not recycle like this. Olivia, Charlie and Molly believe it
is too complicated. Olivia explains: “If I have to do something, like actually go somewhere and
leave the clothes …. I would have had to go to Stadsmissionen or Myrorna and hand in clothes”.
Instead, all of these participants recycle with the help of Sellpy. “I can put the clothes in Sellpy's
green bags. Sellpy usually has large blue bags for clothes you want to sell, but you can fill the
small green ones with broken, completely worn out or dirty garments that cannot be sold, but
can be recycled instead”, Charlie explains.

In summary, the recycling activity can be described as; giving away used fast fashion clothes,
which are not valued or wanted by the consumer anymore, so that other organisations or
companies can handle the sorting and degradation of the textiles. The activity is recognized by
earlier research as well – stating it can be done through recycling centres or retailers own
recycling programs in store (Bianchi & Birtwistle 2010; Ekström & Salomonson 2014; Laitala
2014; Phulwani et al. 2020; Weber et al. 2017). This study, however, further explores how the
activity is performed as a part of Generation Z’s everyday life. Recycling can be done by either
bringing the used clothes to recycling boxes, retailer’s ‘take-back’ programs or by services
collecting the clothes from the participants' homes. Furthermore, this study reveals how female
Generation Z members replace old clothes with financial incentives as discounts in stores when
recycling. Thus, this study contributes with deeper knowledge of how young female consumers
recycle.

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4.1.3 Donate to Charity
Donation is also one of the most common activities performed by the participants in this study.
The clothes donated are relative obsolescence and are described by all participants as; too small,
does not fit anymore or out of style, and therefore the participants are tired of it. They must also
be clean to be suitable for donation. Moreover, the participants choose different organisations
to give away to, depending on location. For example: Röda Korset, Myrorna, Stadsmissionen,
as well as local second-hand stores or donation boxes put out by different organisations. Stella
explains her most recent donation: “Most recently, I handed in three large boxes to a charity
organisation. I do not remember what it was called. I had just tossed in lots of old clothes and
filled the boxes to the brim”. Other participants also tell how they fill plastic bags and boxes in
an unstructured way and let the organisations deal with sorting, and later reselling or giving
away the clothes. For instance, Alice states that she “donate it to people in need by throwing it
in a collection box, or hand it in to some kind of second-hand shop”. In addition, she states that
“it is not like I take the time to fold everything”. Rebecca too exemplifies this kind of donation
behaviour:

I just put the clothes in plastic bags. Not in order or so. Then where I leave them depends
on where I am passing by. Sometimes I donate clothes to Myrorna, but I have also left
clothes in a blue box that belongs to Human Bridge. So those clothes go to people in need
in Africa. (Rebecca)

Taken together, this study can describe how donation is performed by the participants. The used
fast fashion garments are handed in to different organisations, without financial incentives, for
them to handle the clothes. Previous research describes donation as consumers handing in
garments that different organisations take care of by reselling or giving them away to people in
need (Bianchi & Birtwistle 2010; Laitala 2014; Young Lee et al. 2013). The results of this study
confirm this when investigating female members of Generation Z in a fast fashion context and
can furthermore build on the existing research on a more detailed level. For instance, the study
show that the participants choose organisation depending on location and the clothes donated
are handed in messy and unfolded.

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4.1.4 Give Away
Many of the participants give away used fast fashion clothes to friends or family without
charging them financially. This result is consistent with previous research (Birtwistle & Moore
2007; Joung & Park-Poaps 2013; Young Lee et al. 2013; Joung 2014). Furthermore, the clothes
that consumers give away have often been commented on by other people expressing interest
in them. Alice exemplifies: “It was a skirt I found that has never been used haha. So, I thought
I would pass it on. I usually start by giving clothes to friends, and if they do not want it, I pass
it on to charity”. Molly, Bianca, Stella, Emelie and Charlie too witness that giving away often
is the first disposal activity they perform after cleaning out the closet and sorting. Once,
however, it was a reverse order for Molly:

I had a pair of jeans with sequins at the bottom from Zara which my friend liked and
borrowed a lot. When I did a purge like this, I submitted them to the Archive because I
was tired of them. Then I talked to her the next day and she just said: Where have you
handed them in? You have to go and get them back. So, then I had to go back and tell
them that I have regretted my decision and that I do not want to sell them anymore! My
friend said: these are my favourite jeans that you have handed in, take them back and I
will buy them from you immediately, so you do not have to pay commission. So I did, but
then I just gave them to her without charging. (Molly)

This clearly shows how a young female consumer chooses to give away clothes in the first
place. Most of the participants describe how they write to or talk to a friend in person and ask
if the person wants to receive a garment or look through a pile of used clothes. Bianca
exemplifies: “Then I usually take a picture and write to my friends that I am cleaning out my
closet, and that they can come by if they want something”. Molly, Elsa, Olivia, Charlie and
Emelie send pictures of used fast fashion clothes to their friends as well.

On the grounds of the empirical material, the activity of giving away is performed as the first
disposal activity after sorting. It thus precedes other activities, such as reselling, in a kind of
priority system. This information is previously known, looking at examples from existing
literature (e.g. Bianchi & Birtwistle 2010; Laitala 2014). Therefore, this study can both confirm
these results in the current context, and provide more detailed understanding of how the activity
is performed in the specific context. Female Generation Z consumers perform it as a first
disposal activity, and through digital or in-person communication with the friend or relatives.

29
This build on previous findings, showing how practices are social and shared in nature (Beatson
et al. 2020, Reckwitz 2002a). In summary, the understanding of how the activity of giving away
used clothes is deepened due to a practice theory approach in the specific context.

4.1.5 Resell
Reselling used fast fashion garments was the most commonly performed activity, together with
recycling and donating, according to the participants in the study. The fast fashion garments
sold in this activity are in new condition, unworn, or clean and intact. Many participants
describe the garments “still have a lot to give”, thus they are relative obsolescence. When
reselling, most use the company Sellpy as it is convenient for them. The process begins with
the participants first ordering blue plastic bags of an optional number to their home. The bags
are intended to be filled with used garments. Molly explains the concept of Sellpy, which means
the consumer have to do minimal themselves in the reselling process, and still, they gain a small
financial profit:

Then it is clothes I'm tired of and do not like at all. It could be that they have fallen out of
fashion. So, I pick up everything I get annoyed at when looking in my closet, and fold and
pack it into big blue Sellpy bags. Every bag gets a code and then they are picked up by
Sellpy. Then it takes maybe 15 to 18 weeks for the company to go through, sort,
photograph and upload the garments to their web shop. Later, if someone buys my clothes,
I get a small percentage from it. (Molly)

Another method for the reselling activity, is for a consumer to resell by themself through for
example Facebook, various applications with a second-hand concept, or webpages such as
Tradera and Blocket. Rebecca exemplifies: “When it comes to more expensive clothes, I often
sell things on Tradera, Blocket or Facebook pages such as ‘Labels We Love’. I try to take pretty
good pictures of the stuff and then promote them as much as possible”. This method therefore
requires a lot more effort for the individual. Olivia and Emelie explain how they sell used fast
fashion garments on the applications Schpock and Tise:

First you upload as many pictures as you want. On Blocket or Tradera, for example, you
cannot upload as many pictures as you like, because then you have to pay for it. Then you
choose the price of the clothes yourself, choose their category and then people can start
bidding. If someone places a bid, you can either accept or not. And then you can negotiate

30
 a bit in the comments field as well. It can also be that people ask questions about a certain
item of clothing. When someone buys an item, you need to pack it in a nice way and send
it to the buyer. (Olivia)

So first I take pictures of the garments, both when they are hanging and when I am
wearing them. Then I write a description to them: what they are like, what size, what
condition they are in and the price I want. If I set a relatively high price, I also state the
original price. Then I post it and I often get to chat a lot with different people who have
questions about the clothes. (Emelie)

Accordingly, when the participants are reselling their fast fashion clothes, they do a lot more
work and are more careful when handling and packing them compared to when they perform
donation or recycling. In addition, the communicating aspect can be connected to Beatson et al.
(2020) and Reckwitz (2002a), pointing out that practices are social in nature.

Reselling is an activity mentioned in earlier research findings, showing how consumers can for
example use flea markets, auction sites and garage sales (Laitala 2014; Young Lee et al. 2013).
However, not many details about the actual performance are stated. Therefore, this study
deepens the understanding of how the female members of Generation Z are performing a
reselling activity. The results reveal that different sales channels require different levels of work
and effort, as well as levels of communicating with other people. For instance, Facebook and
different applications demand more work and effort compared to reselling with Sellpy, which
is a more hands off process. Which sales channel the consumer chooses also depends on the
type of product. When reselling fast fashion clothes, the consumer wants to make minimal
effort, and therefore chooses services that do the job for them. However, a general trend is that
the participants resell their clothes online. Exclusively Emelie used to have a table at a second-
hand store, and Rebecca once tried to resell at a flea market. Accordingly, this study deepens
the knowledge of how the consumer in question resell used fast fashion clothes, using a practice
theory perspective.

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4.1.6 Swap
According to the result gained from the interviews, swapping is a very unusual activity. Many
of the participants point out they understand what the concept would imply but have not done
it themselves. This does not agree with previous research literature showing that swapping
occurs. As an example, Young Lee et al. (2013) point out that consumers participate in large
swapping events. In this study, Stella gives an example of the closest she has come to an actual
exchange: “It has probably never happened. But then it could be that I give a t-shirt to a friend
and then three months later I get a t-shirt from that same friend”. Charlie explains a similar
situation and mentions that “it was not consciously”.

Emelie and Alice are the only participants who actually have participated in swapping events
with friends. Emelie shares her story:

Everyone came with filled Ikea bags when we had a girls' night, and then we sat and
exchanged clothes with each other. We were very good at it. We did not always change
back either. I probably have many garments left in my closet that are not mine. So that I
use. And I know my friends have my clothes too. The clothes look better sometimes on
other people. (Emelie)

Alice has once participated in a swapping event but did not manage to exchange anything. She
shares her thoughts about swapping clothes:

I have participated in a swapping event to change prom dresses, but I have not managed
to exchange anything…. unfortunately. I do not think it is fun to change clothes and I think
it has a lot to do with my confidence. Usually, I have a bigger size than my friends have
and then it becomes emotional and sad instead. But even if I do not find something to
swap to, I still appreciate the event and think it is a good concept. (Alice)

Other participants reveal various practical obstacles to exchanging clothes with their friends.
Elsa expresses her thoughts: “I am not a swapper. I find it difficult to get the practicalities to fit
together. For example, when you would attend a swapping event, you actually have to get there
with your clothes, and you do not know that the clothes you bring will be appreciated by or
actually fit the other participants. In this case you will have to bring them home with you again”.
Molly describe her line of thoughts in this matter:

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 Partly because I am very strict with what I like and do not. So what I wear and buy, and
dispose of, is very carefully selected most of the time. And it is very difficult for both of
the parties to find something they like, and fits. Both are also required to be the same size.
And then, in many cases your friend wants to exchange a garment because she
particularly likes something that you have, but you do not really know what garment you
want from that friend. So, then you just choose something, and end up not using it. (Molly)

As mentioned, earlier research studies find that consumers participate in swapping activities
(Laitala 2014; Young Lee et al. 2013; Weber et al. 2017). All told, this study shows the opposite,
swapping fast fashion clothes is not a routinised part of the everyday life for a young female
consumer. Thereby, the study does not contribute with in-depth information of the behaviour
in a swapping activity. However, from the few participants that have performed the activity, the
result shows that swapping seems to be more of a social activity than a way to dispose of clothes.
In addition, several of the participants were positive about the concept, and would like to try it
in the future.

4.1.7 Lend Out

To lend out is common among the participants in this study, solely one participant does not
engage in this sort of activity. Lending is performed by the participant temporarily allowing a
friend or relative to use her fast fashion clothes, and then return them. This revelation is
consistent with what previous research results say (Laitala 2014). Stella points out that lending
out clothes, as well as lending from others, “is a big part of my life”. According to the
participants, the lending out activity might take place in the participants own home, and concern
everyday garments. Charlie describes how this could work:

Yes, like my friend for example. We have the same size and similar taste and style. So we
borrow freely between our closets. It could be that she is at my house and sees something
she likes and asks if she can borrow it. And then she returns it after a few days or so. This
is just because we think it is fun, or for a specific occasion. (Charlie)

Concerning special occasions, this seems to be the time when the participants lend out their fast
fashion garments most frequently. The occasion could be for example a party or a trip abroad,
Olivia and Stella describe:

33
 So, if it is a special occasion, for example a big party coming up, and a friend does not
know what to wear. Then I can lend her a dress or a jacket or so. But often, it may happen
if you are away somewhere with friends travelling. For example, on a trip to Mallorca,
my friend had nothing that matched her skirt, and then she could borrow a top from me.
Another example was when my cousin was attending a prom and had no bag that matched
her prom dress. Then she could borrow my little blue bag which suited so well with her
dress. (Olivia)

Yes, when I was traveling with friends for example. We had some party dresses with us
for the evenings, and then my friend felt that she was not comfortable in something she
had packed with her and then my clothes could jump in as a substitute. (Stella)

Consequently, in both every day and special occasions, the participants open up their closets, or
suitcases, for friends to lend garments to them. It is specifically their friends that the participants
lend their fast fashion garments to. Alice points out that “when it comes to lending to friends,
absolutely, they obviously are allowed to do it”, and Pauline describes more in detail: “It has to
be people you know or possibly a friend's friend…. you actually lend out because you feel that
you have trust in the person, and you know that the person will take care of the garment and
that it will not get lost”. According to the empirical material presented above, lending out is a
complex process, compared to what is described in earlier research findings (Laitala 2014). This
study reveals detailed information about at what occasion, what sort of communication, and
what person the participants lend out to.

4.1.8 Keep: Repair and Redesign

The majority of the participants perform the activity of keeping garments they are unsatisfied
with, and instead repair or redesign them to give them a longer life. These results therefore
support previous research by Laitala (2014) and Young Lee et al. (2013), who argues that
clothes can be repaired or redesigned to be useful again. To begin with, this study shows that
the repair of used fast fashion clothes occurs when garments are relatively obsolete with factors
related to their condition, such as worn out or damaged. The majority describes how fast fashion
garments often break. Charlie exemplifies: “Pants, just because you use them so much, and
what is it called, belt loops break. And on dresses and trousers, it is often the seams at the

34
bottom that have a fragile seam”. Molly describe how she repair these fast fashion clothes in
detail:

There are so many clothes in my closet that I have repaired in one way or another. For
example, some suit pants usually drop in the hem at the bottom, then I usually fix it with
a needle and thread. Or if there is a small hole or a seam that has gone up. Then I want
to fix it and not think; no, it is broken and must be thrown away. I fix them either on the
sewing machine or with a needle and thread by hand. It depends on what needs to be
fixed. Wear holes or jeans, or a button that has come off. (Molly)

Some participants perform the repairing by themselves. However, some have less sewing
knowledge and take help of friends and relatives. Alice, Emelie, Charlie, Elsa and Olivia ask
their friends, while Stella describes how her father help her:

Yes, if I am at home with my family, it is my dad who controls the sewing machine. There
were a pair of jeans I had that had broken, so I handed them in to ‘my personal tailor’.
Then I ask for help with it, if it is not something small that I can fix with a needle and
thread by myself. (Stella)

The majority fix small holes, damages or missing buttons themself with needle and thread.
When it is more advanced damage, they leave the clothes to friends, relatives or professional
tailors with access to sewing machines. However, Pauline, Alice and Rebecca do not usually
repair their fast fashion clothes – it has happened once or twice. They want to perform the
activity more often, but does not have the knowledge or energy, and chose not to take help from
others. Hence, Rebecca does not repair clothes if it is not something she really likes and if the
repairing is simple. Furthermore, Alice explains: “If it is a cheap sweater, it is much easier to
just buy a new one”. Thus, the result shows the participants perform the repair activity on
differently advanced levels, depending on knowledge and attitude.

When it comes to the redesign of used fast fashion clothes, the occasion for the activity is a bit
different. It can involve psychological characteristics, for example that the participant is tired
of the garment. Furthermore, the circumstances can include damage, poor fit or some disliked
detail that trigger the activity. Then, the participants make sure that the garment changes for the
better so that they can use it again. Molly explains in detail:

35
 I did this last time with a black dress that I bought last summer but which I did not really
like the length of. A little too short to be a longer dress. Then I shortened it and made a
belt, using my own sewing machine, and just moderated and experimented a bit. Now I
like it a lot more than I did before. Because I still liked the material, and the design on the
arms was nice. Very nicely sewn. So it felt like a waste that I still partly liked some details,
but I just not liked the length of it. Then I refined it to the way I wanted it to look. So
absolutely, it happens that I change things! (Molly)

The change is done in different ways, just as when it comes to repairing. Some have sewing
knowledge themselves, and some take help from others. Stella made a skirt from a dress she
did not like the length of. Charlie has “handed in four pairs of jeans to a tailor to shorten them”
and Elsa’s grandmother helped her to “sew in the waist of a dress”. In addition, Emelie describes
how a friend she lived with helped her with several different garments:

I had a jacket that was way too long for me, so she shortened it, and then she made a belt
from the waste fabric that I could wear with the jacket and tie at the waist. She has also
shortened a dress that was a little too long for me. I had another, a shirt, which I needed
to shorten the sleeves on. So then she fixed it. So absolutely, it is something I do with my
clothes, but I do not do it myself. I take help from others. (Emelie)

Moreover, Rebecca, Alice and Bianca reveal they at most have cut off the legs of trousers or
jeans. Shortening the length of trouser legs is the most common redesign-activity. Thus, the
redesign can take place on different levels. Radical change that makes a new garment, and small
change cutting of a few centimetres of fabric. Moreover, Molly and Charlie explain they
sometimes change a fast fashion garment so that it gets a new purpose and area of use. This is
an aspect that has been found by earlier research studies too (Laitala 2014; Young Lee et al.
2013). In this study, the participant Charlie describes how she once made a bag from a dress
with a thick material. Furthermore, Molly describes: “Sometimes I find another area of use for
a used garment, such as a pair of tights can become fourteen new scrunchies, when there are
holes in the heel. Or an old t-shirt can be new cleaning cloths”. Thus, the participants prove
that redesign can be done at several different advancement levels – depending on creativity,
attitude and sewing knowledge.

36
Some of the participants reveal that redesigning a garment, both for oneself and for others,
could be performed as an interest. Charlie stated in different ways how she sees potential in
some garments she does not really like as a whole, regarding for example materials, details or
quality. Thereby, she changes them into something she would like in a creative process that can
take weeks or months, using her sewing machine and manikin. Olivia describes how this interest
is found in a friend of hers:

My friend turns old clothes into new clothes. She has an Instagram where she shows off
her work. So, then she can check my Sellpy bags before I close them, and sometimes she
takes some stuff and redo it. For example, she turned a bag from H&M into a corset. It is
super cool. They get new life… She is really talented. This is her passion. For example,
she turns jeans into tops, and waste fabric to skirts, or jeans waists to a corset. She also
turns old jeans to new jeans, where she mixes different shades. She has painted on jeans
with fabric colour too. So, she is really passionate about this, as you may notice. (Olivia)

Everything considered, keeping clothes and later redesigning or repairing them imply a
complex activity. It can be performed in different ways by the female members of Generation
Z, according to the findings of this study. Detailed examples of repair and redesign reveal
differences in the occasion, who is performing the work and the sort of communication
involved. As communication is a part of the activity, the findings confirm a practice as social
in nature (Beatson et al. 2020; Reckwitz 2002a). Consequently, the existing research on the
activity, by Laitala (2014) Young Lee et al. (2013), is deepened using a practice theory
approach.

Dispose Permanently Dispose Temporarily Keep

Sort Recycle Lend Out Redesign

Donate to Charity Repair

Resell

Give Away

Swap

Figure 2. A compilation of the Sustainable Clothing Disposal Activities

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4.2 Meanings Driving Sustainable Clothing Disposal

4.2.1 Contribution to Environmental Sustainability

The empirical material of the study reveals a number of meanings driving the practice of
sustainable clothing disposal. Common for every one of the participants is the expression of
positive feelings because their disposal behaviour can affect and contribute to environmental
sustainability. Each participant mentioned the term “new life” one or several times. That is, they
suggest they give new life to or extend the life of a fast fashion garment when for example
donating, reselling or repairing it instead of throwing it in the trash. Emelie exemplifies: “you
contribute to sustainability, when you really try to give clothes a longer life by reselling or
redoing them”. Several participants testify that it feels good to contribute to environmental
sustainability in this way. For instance, Pauline points out: “you see yourself as a better person
when you extend the life of your clothes'', and Alice says: “yes, I feel like a good person, at least
for a while”. In addition, Elsa describes her positive feelings after engaging in a variety of
clothing disposal activities: “I feel like I did something good. I feel proud and satisfied when I
give my clothes new life. I have gotten rid of this in as a sustainable way as I can imagine. So,
in the end, it feels like I did something good, and It feels good”.

However, the participants are aware that their sustainable disposal behaviour is not enough to
make radical change in the environmentally unsustainable fashion industry, but somehow a
small contribution to the process. Rebecca explains:

Yes, as I mentioned before, it feels good. You contribute to environmental sustainability

in some way. I may not make the entire society more sustainable, but I do not make the
situation worse. This allows me to sleep well at night haha. (Rebecca)

Moreover, Molly talk about the responsibility of every person consuming fast fashion to make
sure to use and dispose the garments as sustainable as possible:

I would say that it feels like you have a certain responsibility when you buy clothes and
use clothes…. You have bought a lot of clothes because you have an interest in fashion.
Because you think it is fun and it makes you happy. You get a responsibility then, to ensure
that it does not become unsustainable. An unsustainable behaviour where you do not take

38
 care of the clothes and they end up in the trash when you have finished using them. I try
to do what I can to make sure that these clothes are not created unnecessarily. (Molly)

In addition, the results show that participants never or rarely dispose of their fast fashion
garments in an unsustainable way – due to the bad impact on the environment. Rebecca, Charlie,
Elsa, Molly and Emelie point out they think it is “horrible” to throw clothes in the trash.
However, there are a few exceptions for disposal of for instance worn-out socks or underwear.
Emelie elaborates on her thoughts:

I cannot do it, but my sister has done it and my friend I live with has done it. Then I panic.
What are you doing? Once I went and dug in the garbage, and then brought the clothes
to H&M's clothing collection instead. I would never get myself to throw clothes in the
trash. So no, I do not get rid of clothes in an environmentally unsustainable way. I cannot
do it. Maybe before, but not anymore. (Emelie)

Even though a few participants have thrown textiles in the trash occasionally, they express bad
conscience over such behaviour. Bianca exemplifies: “So yes, it can happen sometimes that I
throw broken socks or panties in the trash. But not clothes. I get mad when I see my neighbours
throwing shoes or pants in the trash”. Thus, this strong resistance to unsustainable clothing
disposal activities strengthens the argument for positive contribution to environmental
sustainability being a meaning driving the practice. It also builds on previous results on
consumer behaviour, which point out that consumer throw products in the trash that are of no
use for others (Laitala 2014).

Meanings driving a practice change depending on context and timing (Bäckström 2010; Fuentes
& Svingstedt 2017). The results of this study show that contributing to a positive impact on the
environment drives female Generation Z consumers to dispose of their fast fashion clothes. This
makes the consumers feel good about themselves in different ways. Other studies also describe
how activities, for instance disposal, is driven by them creating positive feelings and satisfaction
for the consumer (Beatson et al. 2020; Bäckström 2010; Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017; Young
Lee et al. 2013). This study provides deep understanding of how this occurs regarding
sustainable clothing disposal in the context in question.

39
Furthermore, the mentioned melancholy thoughts of the participants reveal they know
consumption of fast fashion affects the environment negatively. Their disposal behaviour works
as a way to contribute to environmental sustainability. Hence, sustainable clothing disposal is
a way of compensating the guilt and do good. This can be connected to the findings of Joung
(2014) and Young Lee et al. (2013), showing that disposal behaviour can alleviate guilt of not
using a garment enough, which could be classified as an unsustainable action. Accordingly, this
study deepens the understanding and shows how environmental guilt affects the performance
of the activities within the practice of sustainable clothing disposal.

4.2.2 Financial Profit

Financial aspects seem to be a meaning driving the practice of sustainable clothing disposal as
well. The participants of this research study often express that money is not the most important
part when reselling their used fast fashion garments. Charlie mentions that “it is not a financial
gain I am thinking of” and Elsa points out “the money is not 100 percent the reason why I sell
with Sellpy”. However, in some way they all mention financial gain as a positive outcome from
reselling used clothes. A clear example is Molly, she first says “the small pay-out I get through
Sellpy, that is not a profit I count on. It does not really matter”, and later on she describes a
Sellpy sale as such: “Sellpy deducts a service fee, but I get some profit, which is nice as a
student”. Hence, the economic gain is still significant. Olivia agrees: “It is worth selling to get
some money. When you are a young student, it is worth it”. Furthermore, Rebecca describes the
values behind her reselling:

I sell because I want money I spent earlier. I see myself as very economical and I am not
rich in any way. I need that money. I usually think that if I manage to sell some stuff, I can
buy something new for the money. (Rebecca)

Bianca too describes thinking about what she spent earlier when she sells used fast fashion
clothes on Facebook, Tradera or Blocket:

I get happy and feel a sense of relief when things are sold. It is sick when you sell and
realize how much money you have spent on things as well. So being able to get some
money back is an incredible relief. (Bianca)

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In addition, reselling is one of the most common activity performed by the participants, which
indicates that financial gain is relatively important. None of the other activities lead to a
financial profit, since renting out is not performed by any participant. Furthermore, concerning
reselling, the financial aspect seems to be stronger than the environmental one. Bianca
continued her earlier reasoning: “But I do not feel so particularly sustainable when I resell
something, instead I am mostly just happy that I can get the money for it”. Charlie and Elsa,
too, mention that environmental reasons are not so prominent on these occasions. Thus, the
result shows that financial aspects do not mix with environmental aspects, when driving the
activity of reselling.

The importance of financial profit is affecting other activities than reselling. When the
participants talk about lending out their fast fashion garments, they mention it as something
more valuable to borrow than to buy new. Stella says: “It is also easier as a student, you do not
want to buy things just for a specific occasion”, and Pauline points out she thinks “it is good
that friends can borrow a dress for a party instead of spending money on buying something
new”. Furthermore, financial aspects matter for the participants when they are recycling too.
Rebecca describes how she prefers to take her used garments to H&M stores for recycling
“because you get a discount check to shop for as well”. Charlie, Emelie and Bianca mention
this discount as well.

As mentioned earlier, meaning changes depending on context and activity performed. Meanings
can further be described as the importance of a practice for a certain individual in a certain
context (Bäckström 2010; Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017). This study reveals that, ultimately,
financial incentives such as money or discount checks are significant for young female
consumers when deciding on how to dispose of their clothes. Moreover, this study show, similar
to results from Young Lee et al. (2013), that consumers are satisfied and happy when they can
get back some of their spent money through a disposal activity. Consequently, this study share
understanding of how financial profit can act as a meaning driving female Generation Z
consumers to perform the practice of sustainable clothing disposal.

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4.2.3 Personal Values
There is a collection of personal values that seem to drive the performance of sustainable
disposal behaviour among the participants as well. For instance, the majority of them express a
strong fashion interest which often involve a strong sentimental value for the clothes. This
drives some participants to keep and repair or change garments they especially like. In this way
they get an extended life in the participants’ closets. Alice and Bianca describe that they
redesign garments they value, which also result in something new and unique that no one else
has. In addition, Elsa describes the relationship with her clothes drives her to extend their lives:

I have a strong relationship with my garments. I have an interest in clothes, and I

appreciate fine detailed work and craftsmanship… There could be certain details that
you like, and certain details you want to tweak. So, it is not so much an environmental
reason behind me redoing garments, but it is more an interest in the garment, and fashion
in general. (Elsa)

Molly further describe her strong connection to her fast fashion garments, and that this
contributes to her performing other sustainable clothing disposal activities so that a new owner
can enjoy the garment as much as she did:

For me, clothes have a history. I find it very difficult to get rid of certain things. There are
many things that still hang around, that I have had for 10 years, that I have never used.
Or barely used. Or it barely fits. But I have a personal relationship with them. Finally,
once I have decided that I will never wear this garment, I get rid of it. For example, sell
it through Arkivet or give it to my sisters. I want someone else to get as much happiness
from the garment as I have. So really a sentimental value. Above all. You get happy. Now
this garment is used by someone else. It gets a new life in someone else’s closet, who
appreciates and wears this sweater or these pants more than me. (Molly)

There are other participants too that express that their disposal of fast fashion can make someone
else happy. For instance, Stella points out that “... one man’s trash is another man’s treasure.
It could be that someone has been looking for a jacket like this for ages''. Charlie describes
seeing someone wear her old clothes: “If it is a family member or friend who gets it, I can see
when it is used. Oh, wow that old sweater! It is priceless''. Moreover, Olivia says: “it is fun to
see other friends use and look good in my clothes, or imagine others getting happy with my
clothes from Sellpy”. Stella brings up making a good deed when donating her used clothes: “It

42
feels so good! Also, because you know that people who are less fortunate who may get a dream
garment or can stay warm”. Hence, the participants know they will experience positive feelings
after disposing of the fast fashion garments, which makes it possible to argue that their personal
values drive the behaviour.

Altogether, the female Generation Z participants find value of different kinds when disposing
of their fast fashion clothes. For instance, fashion interest, sentimental values for the clothes
and the positive feelings of making someone else happy. These values even drive the
participants to get rid of clothes, even though they might relate high sentimental value to them.
The personal values of different kinds can be described as meanings driving the practice in
question, since meanings can be defined as the importance of a practice for a certain individual
or context (Bäckström 2010; Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017). Moreover, the results of this study
support previous results of Beatson et al. (2020), saying disposal activities can occur when
meanings make them feel good about the process. The findings also support and develop Young
Lee et al. (2013), who reveals that donation can create hedonic value and feeling of usefulness.
However, the results deepen the existing understanding for how the consumers’ values and
feelings can act as meanings driving the practice in question.

4.2.4 Convenience and Practical Aspects

Convenient and practical solutions seem to be a common reason for the participants to perform
sustainable clothing disposal. For instance, some describe them choosing a specific way of
recycling or reselling because it is more convenient and flexible than another. Olivia
exemplifies this: “It is because I have to do something. Go somewhere and leave the clothes.
Sellpy makes it so much more convenient for me”. Molly, Olivia, Bianca Charlie and Elsa agree
that Sellpy’s concept is flexible, and requires minimal effort and time from them. “They do most
of the job for you, and you can see how everything proceeds on your account online”, Molly
says. Moreover, Rebecca describes what affects her recycling behaviour:

... where I leave the clothes depends on where I happen to pass by…. If I have to go and
throw something at the dump, I take the clothes with me there and give it to the Human
Bridge Organisation. Then if, for example, I go past H&M, I take the clothing bags there
instead. So, I choose the way that is most flexible. (Rebecca)

43
Furthermore, Pauline and Elsa describe that they engage in repairing activities if time allows it.
In addition, some participants see logistic difficulties in renting out their clothes. Charlie
describes that “it feels like you have to have very good foresight .... It feels very complicated
that these garments should be shipped, and someone should pick them up, for just a few days”.

The results of the study show that the participants can decide on how to dispose of their fast
fashion clothes depending on what is most comfortable and less time consuming for them. This
supports previous research findings from another context, showing that meaning can take the
form of functional factors such as time and ease of use (Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017; Spaid &
Flint 2014). Moreover, in relation to earlier research definition of meaning (Bäckström 2010;
Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017), this study creates deep understanding for how convenient and
practical aspects are significant for the female Generation Z consumers, and drives them to
perform the practice of sustainable clothing disposal in a certain way.

4.2.5 Fast Fashion Characteristics

Another meaning driving the sustainable clothing disposal seems to be the very characteristics
of fast fashion. The study’s participants reveal the reasons for them to dispose of their fast
fashion garments is the condition of them. For instance, the clothes are described as trendy and
fashionable, and also tend to get out of style fast. “It may have gone out of fashion. Not as trendy
anymore”, Olivia points out as arguments for disposing her clothes. Molly, Stella, Bianca and
Rebecca share similar stories:

God, why did I buy this? It is something I am tired of, and do not like at all. It could be
that the item went out of fashion in a second. (Molly)

So, you get tired of it easily and then you want to get rid of it. Many times, fast fashion is
based on trends created by more expensive brands. Then you also get tired of it because
it disappears and then something completely new comes in next week that feels more
attractive. (Stella)

I dispose of it mainly because I get tired of it. I do not really feel any value in fast fashion.
You use it a few times and then you are done with that garment. (Bianca)

44
 ... when it is a new season, you are so tired of that previous trend that you can barely look
at the garment. Then you get rid of it because you are tired of it. (Rebecca)

Thus, this supports existing literature showing that fast fashion is trend sensitive (Burns &
Mullet 2020; Joung 2014; Young Lee et al. 2013). Moreover, the results put the characteristics
in a new spot, namely as a reason to perform the practice of sustainable clothing disposal.

Furthermore, the participants connect fast fashion garments to bad quality and poor fit. This
finding also supports previous literature (Burns & Mullet 2020; Cox et al. 2013; Joung 2014).
A reason for the participants to recycle fast fashion clothes is because they are quickly worn
out. Emelie describes her performing recycling “if the clothes are in very poor condition,
because often it is not so good quality”. Stella mentions fast fashion has “poor materials and
are poorly sewn”. In addition, Pauline describes her recycling fast fashion because “it has
broken or pinched”, and Alice and Rebecca say they recycle because their clothes break or lose
the fit after they are worn and washed a couple of times.

Altogether, this study shows how the characteristics of fast fashion are perceived by the
participants as reasons for getting rid of them in a sustainable way. Therefore, trend
sensitiveness and poor quality and fit can be considered as important aspects for the
participants, as well as an underlying driving force for the practice in question. Meanings are
indeed described as the importance of a practice for an individual in a context (Bäckström
2010). Thus, fast fashion characteristics can be declared as a meaning driving the practice of
sustainable clothing disposal, which indeed deepen the existing knowledge of the activity.

45
 Discussion

This study aims to contribute to the existing research literature on consumers' sustainable
clothing disposal behaviour. Previous research in the field has provided knowledge about, for
instance, consumer intentions, motivations and attitudes (Chaturvedi et al. 2020; Cook &
Yurchisin 2017; Joung & Park-Poaps 2013; McNeill et al. 2020). Furthermore, a few studies
on consumer disposal behaviour show they can be both sustainable and unsustainable (Bianchi
& Birtwistle 2010; Holtström et al. 2020; Joung 2014; Laitala 2014). However, most previous
studies use a quantitative approach (e.g. Bianchi & Birtwistle 2010; Chaturvedi et al. 2020;
Cook & Yurchisin 2017; McNeill et al. 2020; Joung 2014; Weber et al. 2017). This implies that
an in-depth understanding and knowledge of the disposal behaviour is missing since a
qualitative strategy is advantageous to use when studying and collecting material from complex
social practices performed by social actors (Beatson et al. 2020; Fuentes & Svingstedt 2017;
Gram-Hanssen 2010; Hargreaves 2011). Spaargaren (2011) further argues that practice
theoretic providing a balanced approach must be used to create deeper understanding of a social
phenomenon.

Building on this, the findings of this study have features that are both similar and different from
previous studies. Similarities include what kinds of activities are performed and who is
performing them. The activities have been distinguished in earlier quantitative research, and
who is the fast fashion consumer, namely a young woman, is known since before. However,
the previous research findings on the consumers' behaviour in sustainable clothing disposal are
different to this study's findings in many ways too. To begin with, this study contradicts earlier
findings saying young consumers are likely to engage in a number of unsustainable clothing
disposal activities (e.g McNeill et al 2020; Morgan & Birtwistle 2009; Joung 2014).
Furthermore, few studies in the fashion field use practice theory, and thus do not create a deep
and current understanding of the actual performance of sustainable clothing disposal as a
routinised part of the consumer's everyday lives. In addition, there is a lack of studies
investigating the meanings behind the behaviour – enabling and driving it forward.
Furthermore, large parts of previous research do not focus on precisely a fast fashion context,
where companies and consumers are significantly contributing to environmental
unsustainability (Bianchi & Birtwistle 2010; Fletcher 2014; Laitala 2014; Joung 2014; Mistra
Future Fashion n.d). Therefore, uncertainty regarding how fast fashion consuming female

46
Generation Z members perform sustainable clothing disposal and what meanings drive it exists.
Accordingly, it appears a research gap exists. This research study fills this gap and provide a
theoretical contribution to the existing body of research in the specific research field.

The theoretical contribution consists of a current and deep understanding regarding female
Generation Z consumers performance of sustainable clothing disposal post-consumption in a
fast fashion context. Applying a practice theoretical perspective, this study creates a dynamic
understanding of a complex social phenomenon, which activities are included in the practice
and how they are performed as part of routinised actions and communication. The consumers
in question thus perform sustainable clothing disposal activities as a part of their everyday lives.
Activities are performed under different circumstances, in connection to other individuals or
alone. The majority of the identified activities have been mentioned in earlier research;
however, this study shows that renting out is an activity not performed by young women in a
fast fashion context. Hence, the study provides a picture of how sustainable clothing disposal
activities occur alongside other individuals and social activities in the consumer's social reality.
Moreover, the research findings contribute to an understanding of the connection between the
behaviour and the meanings that enable and drive sustainable clothing disposal in the specific
context. The components of the practice, including the meanings driving it, are presented in
Figure 3 below. Consequently, the results can be used to understand the consumers in question
and their behaviour, which is a relatively unexplored area in previous research.

Figure 3. The elements of Sustainable Clothing Disposal, including the forms of meaning
(Based on Shove et al. 2012)

47
The findings furthermore generate a practical contribution. They can be applied and reflected
in various contexts and contribute in different ways. For example, it could provide implications
and be useful for actors in the textile and fashion industry, as well as the society. Fashion
companies who target the fast fashion consumer can interpret the findings and understand how
she behaves in clothing disposal and which meanings drive it. For instance, the findings show
that some consumers need help to repair and redesign their used fast fashion clothes and
moreover, that practical aspects can hinder them from recycling in some ways. Hence, business
models and strategies can be reconfigured to adapt to it and improve fashion companies’
concepts. Furthermore, clothing disposal companies striving to contribute to environmental
sustainability could adapt to the current knowledge of fast fashion consumers too. If these
companies design their businesses along with the consumers' behaviour, they can thus attract
more people to perform sustainable clothing disposal.

It is indeed essential for companies in the textile and fashion industry to understand sustainable
disposal activities in a practice theoretical way since this in turn can generate a positive impact
on environmental sustainability in the society. Today, fast fashion companies generally do not
take environmental sustainability into account. However, they adapt to their customers demand
and behaviour (Burns & Mullet 2020; Fletcher 2014). Hence, if the consumer performs
environmentally sustainable behaviour, and are driven by similar meanings, it can be argued
that the fast fashion companies must and will adapt to this behaviour. Furthermore, these fast
fashion companies can create global spread, since the textile and fashion industry is one of the
most extensive and influential ones (Burns & Mullet 2020). As mentioned in chapter 1.2
Problem Discussion, a practice-based approach can create a balance between cultural
dimensions as well as objects and technology (Spaargaren 2011). Efforts for sustainable
consumption often lack analytical precision and must therefore be replaced by a practice-based
strategy to create a deep understanding of the dynamics of change (ibid). Thus, if fashion
companies take part in and adapt to the study's findings, it could, in turn, lead to a more
environmentally sustainable society.

48
 Conclusions

In this study, practice theory has been used to full-fill the purpose of contributing with a current
and deep understanding of the practice of sustainable clothing disposal, by creating knowledge
about how consumers perform disposal activities post-consumption in a fast fashion context, as
well as meanings driving this behaviour. In addition, the study aims to provide an understanding
of how women of Generation Z, which are frequent consumers of fast fashion, perform the
activities. The following research questions have been formulated to fulfil this purpose: How
are sustainable clothing disposal activities performed post-consumption in a fast fashion
context? As well as what meanings do consumers attribute to the practice?

This study shows that sustainable clothing disposal includes several different activities in a fast
fashion context. Through a practice theoretical perspective, the study has distinguished the
following disposal activities in our empirical material: recycle, donate to charity, give away,
resell, swap, lend out, repair and redesign. In addition, the findings show that the disposal
process begins with a sorting activity. The study can moreover identify several significant
tendencies regarding how the activities are performed in word and deed, including a number of
similarities and differences between them. To begin with, the study shows that sustainable
clothing disposal activities are a part of the female Generation Z consumers' everyday life.
Exclusively the swap activity is uncommonly performed by the consumer group, and renting
out is not performed. Swapping is complicated for the participants due to trust and practical
aspects. However, several of the participants understand the concepts and are open to try
swapping in the future. Moreover, the most common activities performed are recycling,
donating and reselling, which occur as routinised behaviour. Furthermore, as stated, the study
reveals sorting as a pre-disposal activity. A few times a year, the consumers clean out their
closet and use different criteria and a pile system for sorting the used fast fashion clothes.
Afterwards, giving away is the activity to be prioritised first by the consumers, although it is
not one of the most commonly performed ones.

Sometimes, the activities are performed together with others. For instance, female Generation
Z consumers communicate with friends and relatives when giving away or lending out
garments, as well as when they resell them through different sales channels. Repairing and
redesigning are also performed in connection with other people. These are indeed complex
activities that is performed at different levels. For example, the consumer can sew themselves
or take help from others – meaning they communicate with friends, relatives or professionals.

49
In addition, redesigning can be done to service friends, as both an interest and favour. The study
likewise reveals that different activities occur under different circumstances. They can occur
both online and physically; through reselling using websites, social media or applications, or
getting to a recycling box or second-hand store to leave the used fast fashion clothes there.
Furthermore, the activities are performed in both a structured and unstructured manner; the
consumers fold and structure garments in good condition to resell and receive financial profit.
However, when clothes are in poor condition, they are handled way less carefully. Building on
this, the research results show activities are performed depending on the condition and
characteristics of the consumers' used clothes. As mentioned, garments in good condition can
be resold, lent out or given away, while worn-out garments can be repaired. Clothes that are
perceived as out of style or unwanted because of poor fit can be swapped, redesigned or
recycled.

Regarding the meanings that drive female Generation Z consumers' sustainable clothing
disposal in the context in question, this study identifies that these can be: the contribution to
environmental sustainability, financial profit, various personal values, convenience and
practical aspects, as well as the characteristics of fast fashion. The empirical results provide
evidence of how the mentioned meanings above function as the importance and value behind
the decision on how to dispose of the consumer's fast fashion garments sustainably. For the
most part, the female Generation Z members are aware of what meaning driving their
behaviour. For instance, they resell or donate their used clothes to make someone else happy.
However, concerning, for example, financial profit, the consumers are less aware of the
meaning.

50
 Limitation and Future Research

The researchers are aware of the limitations the study's scarce resources entail. The scope and
context concerning the participants are therefore narrowly defined. For instance, this study
considers solely ten young Swedish women who consume fast fashion and are involved in
environmental sustainability. As Warde (2005) shows, the performance of a practice varies
depending on individual aspects, such as past experiences and knowledge. Hence, future
research can develop the results using a more extensive sampling size and considering
consumers from other cultures and origins. Another consumer group might engage in different
practices and be driven by different meanings when it comes to the sustainable disposal of
clothes. In addition, future research could examine another age group to see if disposal
behaviour may look different depending on surrounding factors and upbringing. Hence, results
could be compared to the young participants in this study. This sort of comparison could be
done with male consumers too. Accordingly, research can use practice theory to investigate
whether sample size, culture factors, age, and gender affect the result and further contribute to
a more profound understanding of consumers' sustainable clothing disposal behaviour.

Moreover, the study is conducted in a fast fashion context focusing on environmental

sustainability. It would be interesting to participate in a future research study implemented in
another context and study social and economic sustainability. For example, investigating luxury
brands and see if the disposal behaviour is performed differently and if other meanings are
driving it. Furthermore, the study is defined to disposal behaviour in the post-consumption
phase. Practice theory can be used to research other stages as well, for instance, the purchase
phase. Researchers could investigate how sustainable activities are performed in this phase and
what underlying meanings are driving it. This would hence have implications on environmental
sustainability. In response to this, the current study is limited to solely one of the three elements
enabling, shaping and driving a practice. Future research could include and test the other
elements – competence and material – when investigating sustainable behaviour in different
phases. Consequently, future research findings would deepen and broaden the existing body of
research using practice theory to study consumers’ sustainable behaviour in a fashion context.

Due to the qualitative nature of the research strategy, including a purposive sampling method,
the results cannot be generalised to a total population (Bryman 2016). Thus, the results

51
regarding how female Generation Z consumers perform the practice of sustainable clothing
disposal cannot be generalised to an international population or other settings. Nonetheless, the
results provide deep and nuanced knowledge of the behaviour of the consumers in question and
what meanings driving this in the social reality they exist in. Using theoretical and analytic
generalisation, the research findings guide and support the theoretical arguments that are
generated.

52
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Appendices

Appendix 1: Informed Consent

Dear –

We are two students from the Master Programme (One Year) in Textile Management at The
Swedish School of Textiles. Writing our Master Thesis about sustainable clothing disposal, we set
our focus on investigating Generation Z (people born shortly before or after the year 2000).
Therefore, we reach out to you to ask if you want to participate as an interviewee in the research
study. In this way, you can contribute to a deeper qualitative understanding of the topic in question
and to environmental sustainability in general.

The interview would be about sustainable clothing disposal activities in a fast fashion context. We
are interested in what happens to a fast fashion garment after purchase and use phase. Moreover,
the interview would last for approximately 45 to 60 minutes and be recorded and transcribed for
us to be able to use it as empirical material in the study. All collected material will be kept
confidential and deleted after the research process is completed. To protect the participants'
anonymity, only their true gender, age and nationality will be presented in the study. Furthermore,
participation is voluntary, and you have the right to cancel your participation if you wish. Mainly
other students and teachers in the Master's Programme will take part of the study, and later it will
be publicly published.

Your participation would mean a lot. Do not hesitate to contact us for more information.

Best regards,

Ebba Ardbo Elvira Ekvall

s207687@student.hb.se s190997@student.hb.se

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Appendix 2: Interview Guide

Introductory Part

Information
• Purpose and context of the study
• About practice theory, clothing disposal

Introductory questions
• Tell me about your general thoughts on the fashion and textile industry today (and in connection
to environmental sustainability)
• Would you say environmental sustainability is an evident part of your life? How?

Intermediate Part

General sustainable clothing disposal

• Can you describe how you dispose of your clothes? Give examples.
o Are there any reasons why you choose these specific ways?
o Do you experience any value of disposing your clothes in these ways? Develop and give
examples.

Sustainable clothing disposal activities

• Recycle
• Donation to charity
• Resell
• Give away
• Swap
• Lend out
• Rent out
• Keep and repair
• Keep and design or purpose

o Do you perform this activity?

o How do you perform it?
o Tell me about a specific occasion.
o Why do you perform it? Is there a specific reason, or value to it?

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Continue on general sustainable clothing disposal
• How do you feel after you have performed a sustainable clothing disposal activity?
• Which activity, of the ones we talked about, do you perform most often? Least often? Why?
• Are there any activities not mentioned in this interview that you perform?
• Do you perform unsustainable clothing disposal activities? Tell me about the ratio between your
sustainable and unsustainable clothing disposal.

Fast fashion
• How would you describe a fast fashion garment?
• What is your relationship to fast fashion?
• Why do you purchase and consume fast fashion?
• Tell me about the reasons for you to dispose of your fast fashion garments.

Ending Part

• Do you feel that you make a difference with your environmentally friendly sustainable disposal
behaviour? Develop how.
• How do you think your clothing disposal behaviour will develop in the future?
• Background questions: Gender, Year of Birth, Nationality
• Conclude. Thank you for your participation!

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