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Article history: Raw sheep wool contains various impurities such as wax, suint, dirt, and microorganisms. Water-based
Received 7 March 2020 cleaning process of sheep wool requires toxic volatile organic compounds that generate a significant
Received in revised form portion of toxic effluents. Supercritical CO2 (scCO2) is a waterless technology that has been utilized for
21 October 2020
sterilization, extraction, cleaning, and drying in various manufacturing sectors. The application of the
Accepted 22 October 2020
scCO2 technology in sheep wool processing is cleaner, as it avoids the generation of toxic effluents. scCO2
Available online 26 October 2020
is a promising technology that can be simultaneously utilized in sheep wool processing for sterilization,
Handling editor: Prof. Jiri Jaromir Klemes extraction of lanolin, and cleaning and drying. Therefore, the present study was conducted to evaluate
the potential and limitations of the use of the scCO2 technology for sheep wool processing. Moreover, the
Keywords: properties of sheep wool, the impurities associated with sheep wool fiber, and treatment technology are
Cleaner production discussed.
Waterless technology © 2020 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
Sheep wool
Supercritical CO2
Wool wax
Contents
1. Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
2. Sheep wool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
2.1. Production, properties, and structure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
2.2. Utilization of sheep wool fiber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
2.3. Impurities and biological hazards of sheep wool fiber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
3. Sheep wool fiber processing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
3.1. Pulsed electrohydraulic discharge (PED) for wool fiber cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
3.2. Ultrasonic-assisted industrial wool scouring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
3.3. Solvent wool scouring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
3.4. Detergent wool scouring with an alkaline builder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
3.5. Limitations of the existing sheep wool processing process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
4. Supercritical carbon dioxide technology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
4.1. Supercritical carbon dioxide as an extraction technology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
4.2. Supercritical carbon dioxide as a sterilization technology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
4.3. Supercritical carbon dioxide as a cleaning and drying technology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
4.4. Potential and challenges of scCO2 technology in sheep wool processing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
5. Conclusions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Declaration of competing interest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Acknowledgement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
* Corresponding author.
** Corresponding author.
E-mail addresses: sohrab@usm.my (M.S. Hossain), mardianaidayu@usm.my
(M.I. Ahmad).
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.124819
0959-6526/© 2020 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
F.A. Salem Allafi, M.S. Hossain, M.O. Ab Kadir et al. Journal of Cleaner Production 285 (2021) 124819
References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Table 1
Sheep wool from various types of sheep and their characteristics (Source: Encyclopædia Britannica).
Type of wool Type of sheep Fiber diameter (mm) Staple length (mm) Spinning count (s) Mature Body weight (lb)
Ram Ewe
Fine sheep wool Delaine Merino 22e17 2.5e4 64e80 190e240 125e160
Rambouillet 24e19 2.5e4 60e80 200e300 140e180
Deboillet 22e18 3e5 64e80 220e275 125e160
Medium sheep wool Targhee 25e21 3e5 58e64 200e300 140e200
Finnsheep 31e24 3e6 48e60 160e200 120e160
Columbia 30e23 4e6 50e62 250e350 160e240
Dorset polled 33e26 3e4.5 46e58 225e275 150e200
Montadale 30e25 3e5 56e58 200e275 160e180
Corriedale 31e25 3.5e6 50e58 220e275 150e200
Cheviot 33e27 2.5e4 46e56 160e200 120e160
Shropshire 33e25 3e4 46e58 225e290 170e200
Southdown 30e25 2e3 50e58 180e230 120e180
Suffolk 33e26 2e3.5 46e58 275e400 200e300
Oxford 34e28 3e5 46e54 225e325 150e200
Coarse sheep wool Border leicester 38e30 5e10 36e48 225e300 150e225
Lincoln 41e34 8e15 36e46 240e300 200e250
Romney 39e32 5e8 36e48 200e275 150e200
releasing it as vapor, thereby preventing the clammy, cold feeling The presence of both crystalline and amorphous regions in wool
experienced when some synthetic materials are worn during hot fibers makes them one of the most advanced complex and com-
weather. The ability of wool to retain moisture makes it resistant to posite structures in nature. Fig. 2 shows the physical structure of
static electricity; hence, wool garments have a minimal chance of sheep wool fiber. Sheep wool has a complex physical structure
sparking or clinging to the body (Kim and Kim, 2019). The chemical consisting of a membrane, cortical cell, cortex, micro fibril, matrix,
structure of wool fiber is shown in Fig. 1. twisted molecular chain, and helical coil (Erdogan et al., 2020).
Wool contains keratin, which is strengthened by disulfide bonds Further, sheep wool is coated with the waxy material, lanolin.
from sulfur-containing amino acids. The non-protein fraction con- Therefore, lanolin needs to be removed during the processing of
sists of an outer lipid hydrophobic layer, which is known as lanolin sheep wool. Notably, each wool component has a specific compo-
or wool wax (Fiore et al., 2019; Sabatini et al., 2018). The utilization sition (physical and chemical), which plays a significant role in the
of wool on floors and car seats minimizes shock risks upon contact wool system. Changes in the physical structure due to activities
with grounded objects because of its resistance to wear and tear such as unscalling and peeling off may affect the morphology of the
due to its mechanical and chemical properties (Bharath et al., 2016). wool fiber. Consequently, the cuticle cells might enhance the sur-
Wool is a biological polymer characterized by the cuticle, cell- face area by weakening the structural bonds within the fiber
membrane complex, and cortex (Aluigi et al., 2008). Ninety (Kuzmanova et al., 2018). The cortex is surrounded by cuticle scales,
percent of the fiber by weight is composed of the cortex. Wool is which are rich in cysteine, a sulfur-containing amino acid whose
applied as a filler to produce mortar or plastic, which makes it a disulfide bond confers both chemical and mechanical stability to
renewable resource (Fiore et al., 2019). Wool fibers are hydrophilic wool. Even though the cuticle scales are known for their hydro-
in nature. Fiber swells when it adsorbs moisture, resulting in an phobicity, the propensity of the cortex to absorb 30% by weight in
increase in weight and size, which also affects its mechanical and moisture indicates hygroscopic characteristics. A combination of
electrical properties (Memon et al., 2018). these properties provides a unique wool surface (each component
Sheep wool has a diameter in the range of 16e40 mm; however, possesses desirable properties such as high moisture absorbency
unlike synthetic fibers, sheep wool has no specific thickness (Del- and chemical resistance). A wool fiber can be reverse engineered
Rey et al., 2017). Sheep wool contains 60% animal protein fibers, into its major subcomponents by altering its chemical and physical
15% moisture, 10% fat, 10% sheep sweat, and 5% impurities and is structures (Caven and Bechtold, 2017).
known to be highly hygroscopic (Zach et al., 2012). Fabrics are bulky
compared with other textiles because they crimp and retain air, 2.2. Utilization of sheep wool fiber
which makes them good insulators. They help retain warmth in
cold weather. However, their insulation capability functions in both Sheep wool has received considerable attention for use as an
ways. For instance, the Bedouins and Tuaregs use clothes made of apparel fiber and interior fabric because of its good technical
wool to keep the heat out, as it does not cling to their skin, allowing properties. The utilization of sheep wool in various industrial ap-
proper air circulation. Fibers are more resistant to tension plications is presented in Table 2. Sheep wool is mainly utilized as a
compared with cotton and rayon; fibers can resist breakage even textile material for producing garments, warm clothes, carpets, and
when bent 20,000 times, whereas cotton and rayon can break curtains. However, the technical application of wool has attracted
when bent just 3000 and 75 times, respectively (Yan 2016). Fibers scant attention compared with that of other synthetic fibers. Suc-
can be elongated by approximately 25%e30% and still return to a cessful technical utilization of wool fiber requires a high-value
natural shape. Fibers have a higher ignition point than cotton and application that can exploit its natural properties or modify it to
some synthetics. Even when burnt, they do not melt or drip like achieve a particular target performance. The sustainability and
synthetic materials. They have the self-extinguishing property biodegradability of wool fiber make it attractive for use as an ideal
when the flame source is extinguished. They generate fewer toxic material for various technical applications. Sheep wool, as a natural
gases when burned compared with synthetic materials, and they fiber, has been utilized in civil engineering for the thermal and
are often recommended for high-safety environments such as acoustic insulation of facades and roofs or as reinforcement in
aircraft and trains. Their capability to protect from UV is much composites with polymeric, earthen, or cementations matrices
higher than that of cotton and synthetic materials. (Zagarella et al., 2014). Sheep wool has been employed as a soft mat
3
F.A. Salem Allafi, M.S. Hossain, M.O. Ab Kadir et al. Journal of Cleaner Production 285 (2021) 124819
for the thermal insulation of pitched roofs (Wulfhorst and Gries, concrete using lime and sheep wool fibers (20e40 wt%) by
2012). There are two categories of sheep wool insulation products following granulometrics and a layered envelope system. It was
in the building market. They are soft mats composed of 100% sheep found that the thermal conductivity of the biocomposite concrete
wool having a thickness of 4e6 cm, mainly used for the insulation was increased with the percentage sheep wool content. The study
of pitched roofs, and semi-rigid panels composed of 70%e80% reported that the sheep wool has the potential to be used in the
sheep wool and 20%e30% polyester having a thickness of 5e12 cm energy efficiency of a building.
(Zach et al., 2012). They are applicable on walls because of the Sheep wool shows a sufficiently good acoustical performance
stiffness achieved through the partial fusion of polyester fibers. for its use as a noise barrier, as a sound absorber in acoustic rooms,
Wool fiber mainly contains a protein called keratin, which can or as a vibration insulator (Borlea et al., 2020; Korjenic et al., 2015).
be used as a reinforcement. The insolubility and the resistance of The absorption coefficient of sheep wool panels were determined
sheep wool are attributed to the disulfide bridges formed in the to be 0.84 at 2000 Hz (Borlea et al., 2019). Borlea et al. (2020) re-
sheep wool structure by cysteine. Keratin does not soluble in hot ported that the sheep wool panels could be utilized to improve
and cold hot water and it does not break down into soluble ele- cavity absorber or vibration insulator maximum 10 dB and to
ments, but it dissolves in dialkyl sulfoxides (Alston et al., 2019). improve the transmission loss on plasterboard walls by maximum
Besides, the sheep wool contains resilience and excellent elonga- 6 dB. Wool fibers are a self-extinguishing material and it burns
tion characteristics (Saxena et al., 2011). The tensile strength of slowly with a slight sputtering in the presence of a flame (Zach
wool decreases with increasing temperature and time in a heat et al., 2012). Besides, wool fibers are more hygroscopic and it can
n
treatment system utilizing argon or nitrogen (Li et al., 2019). Gala absorb moisture in vapor form up to 20e35 wt% without causing a
and Marín et al., (2010) utilized the sheep wool fiber as a rein- damp feeling (Korjenic et al., 2015). The moisture absorption
forcement in soil-alginate composite to enhance bonding within capability of sheep wool fibers are higher than the glass wool fiber
soil particles. Zagarella et al. (2014) isolated a biocomposite (0.2%) or polystyrene foam (0.03%e0.1%) (Borlea et al., 2019).
4
F.A. Salem Allafi, M.S. Hossain, M.O. Ab Kadir et al. Journal of Cleaner Production 285 (2021) 124819
Table 2
Utilization of sheep wool in various industrial application.
Textile materials To produce warm clothes, carpet and curtains Laitala et al. (2018)
Civil engineering materials Thermal and acoustic insulations of facade and roof insulations Korjenic et al. (2015).
Reinforcement material Enhance mechanical and thermal properties of polymeric, earthen or cementitious matrices dinaru et al. (2016)
Gra
Acoustical material Adsobe sound, noise barrier and as a vibration insulator Borlea et al. (2020)
Del Rey et al. (2017)
Catalyst Enhance mass transfer, physical and chemical stability McNeil et al. (2017)
Geotextile Steep slopes protection of soil from erosion Broda et al. (2018)
Soil nutrient Cube nutrients for soil fertilization Abdallah et al. (2019)
2.3. Impurities and biological hazards of sheep wool fiber by the sebaceous glands in sheepskin, whereas suint is produced by
sweat glands. Both types of waxes are more precisely defined based
Raw wool is often contaminated with impurities based on on their solubilities in water and organic solvents. Suint is mainly
certain factors such as the sheep breed, husbandry method, and composed of potassium salts of organic acids, with potassium ac-
region in which the sheep are raised. Wool fiber contaminants can counting for approximately 90% of the cations present or 25%e27%
be generally divided into the following four groups (IWTO, 2019; of the dry weight of suint (Millington and Rippon, 2017). VM can
Long et al., 2013; Millington and Rippon, 2017; Zhang et al., 2005): also be found in raw wool as a contaminant. In the case of heavy VM
contamination, carbonization may be required to remove it. Ex-
i Water-soluble material, commonly called suint (soluble con- amples of VM include burrs, seeds, twigs, and straws. Copper
taminants such as potassium salts from perspiration and feces); pollution was observed to affect the mineral metabolism of sheep
ii Dirt from both organic and inorganic sources; wool (Chi et al., 2019). Cadmium and Pb are known heavy metals in
iii VM sheep wool, as observed in the study of Tuncer (2019).
iv Wool wax (oxidized and unoxidized forms) Sheep wool fiber is continually exposed to microbial contami-
nation starting from its time on the sheep body to the various
Wool grease, suint, and dirt are the major contaminants in sheep stages of its processing. Some of these microorganisms are
wool (Millington and Rippon, 2017). Wool grease is a wax produced responsible for most of the pathological diseases in sheep.
5
F.A. Salem Allafi, M.S. Hossain, M.O. Ab Kadir et al. Journal of Cleaner Production 285 (2021) 124819
However, certain microorganisms may not be pathological to Subsequently, the yarned wool undergoes aqueous dying to pro-
sheep, but under favorable conditions, they can rapidly multiply duce colorful textile products.
and stain wool fibers with mildew, causing them to lose strength Scouring is the most important step in sheep wool processing.
and deteriorate easily. The activity of various microbes can hamper Generally, raw sheep wool is greasy because it contains lanolin,
the utilization of wool; hence, wool must often be sterilized to sweat salts, dirt, dung, dust, and other VM. It is essential to remove
eliminate pathogenic organisms and other microbes that can easily the extraneous materials to utilize sheep wool as a textile fiber;
cause damage to it. Moreover, organisms such as gram-positive consequently, wool scouring is essential (Li et al., 2017; Long et al.,
bacilli, gram-negative pleomorphic rods, coccobacilli, and cocci 2013). Although the term “wool scouring” refers to the process of
can be found in the fleece of sheep, although their counts may vary. wool washing and drying, in reality, there are several other steps
The common resident floras in the fleece are Pseudomonas, Proteus, involved in this process, such as opening, blending, mechanical
Staphylococcus, and Bacillus. Mycotic dermatitis or “lumpy wool” is cleaning, baling, sampling, and testing. In addition, several types of
caused by the bacterium Dermatophilus congolensis (Saleh et al., chemical treatments may be used in conjunction with the scouring
2019). It is often encountered in humid areas where humidity process (Li et al., 2017). Table 3 shows the various scouring methods
keeps the wool from drying. The action of Mycobacterium avium ss. used in sheep wool processing and their limitations.
Paratuberculosis can result in wool breakage. Wattiau et al. (2008) The scouring process cleans wool by eliminating lanolin in a hot
detected Bacillus anthrax spores in a wool fiber processing factory. water bath using alkali or soap. However, some advanced scouring
B. anthrax is an infectious human pathogen. Thus, the presence of processes have been reported in the literature as follows:
microorganisms in sheep wool must be considered before selecting
a technology for sheep wool processing to ensure complete inac- i. Pulsed electrohydraulic discharge wool scouring;
tivation of the pathogen to protect the wool fiber from damage and ii. Ultrasonic-assisted industrial wool scouring;
prevent the exposure of the infectious pathogen. iii. Solvent wool scouring;
iv. Detergent wool scouring with alkaline builders.
During the production of fabric, sheep wool undergoes several 3.1. Pulsed electrohydraulic discharge (PED) for wool fiber cleaning
processing steps, such as shearing, classing, scouring, carding,
combining, and spinning into a yarn (Millington and Rippon, 2017). Pulsed electrohydraulic discharge (PED) is an environmentally-
Fig. 3 shows the process of sheep wool processing for producing safe wool cleaning technology based on the electrohydraulic effect.
clean fabrics. Sheep are generally sheared once a year. After It involves several complex phenomena in the discharge of high
shearing, the fleece is separated manually from shorter wool, voltage through a liquid. PED technologies have been shown to
leaves, twigs, and undesirable parts of the fleece. The folded and involve several mechanisms, such as ultraviolet radiation, shock-
rolled fleece is classified according to the diameter, length, waves, and radical reactions (Anpilov et al., 2001; Li et al., 2012).
strength, and color of the individual fibers. Subsequently, sheep Raw wool samples are scoured in the experimental PED system
wool undergoes scouring to remove lanolin and other VM present and treated in water without adjusting the pH. In a study conducted
in the wool. The clean sheep wool from different batches is blended by Zhang et al. (2016), the output voltage was set to 14.8 kV, where
in size and color. The blended and scoured wool contains tufts of each sample was treated 3, 9, and 18 times. Detergent/chemicals
tangled fibers. Consequently, the fiber undergoes carding to pro- and water heating were not employed during the scouring process.
duce smooth fibers. Generally, carding is performed by brushing After the scouring process, it was observed that the wool became
with a carding machine over a series of rolling drums with varying white in color owing to the elimination of certain impurities and
drum sizes and rotation speeds. After carding, the wool is twisted contaminants. The conductivity of the liquid can be increased by
into ropes by spinning. Generally, shorter fibers are used to make increasing the number of treatments. However, there are certain
woolen yarns and longer fibers are used to make worsted yarns. drawbacks of the PED process (Zhang et al., 2016), including slight
Fig. 3. Existing sheep processing method for produce clean sheep wool.
6
F.A. Salem Allafi, M.S. Hossain, M.O. Ab Kadir et al. Journal of Cleaner Production 285 (2021) 124819
Table 3
Various scouring methods for sheep wool processing.
Pulsed electrohydraulic discharge Damage to the scales and fiber strength. Zhang et al. (2016)
Generate wastewater with high chemical oxygen demand and turbidity
Ultrasonic-assisted industrial wool scouring High energy consumption Li et al., (2017)
Enzymatic treatment with subtilizing and subtilizing Hydrolytic attack to the fibre surface Mojsov (2017)
Enzyme diffuses causes fiber strength loss.
Alkaline wool scouring High cost due to the depreciation Bhavsar et al., (2017)
Excessive damage to keratin structure.
Soap scouring Fiber loss of flexibility Gutarowska et al. (2017)
Carbonizing Decreased tensile strength of carbonized fibre Czaplicki and Strzelecki, (2019)
Extensive fibre damage
Oxidation with H2O2 Damage fiber and weekend the fiber strength Long et al. (2013)
Superheated water hydrolytic damage to the cuticle and cortical cell Zhang, et al.(2016)
loss of fiber surface integrity
High pressure water Decreased the tenacity and elongation at break of wool fibres Zheng et al., 2016
damage to the scales, generation of wastewater with turbidity and in the opposite direction from the third bath to the first bath to
COD values, longer treatment times, and a decrease in fiber form a multi-stage countercurrent extraction system. The total
strength caused by the removal of scale. volume of solvent held in solvent scouring is 2.5 m3. For example, if
the machine is driven 6 h/day, the solvent consumed is 66 kg/day
3.2. Ultrasonic-assisted industrial wool scouring (Hassan and Shao, 2016). The advantages of using scouring ma-
chines include producing quality fabrics excellent in color, texture,
Ultrasonic irradiation can be used to improve the process of raw and uniformity of scouring, although the fixed cost is generally high
wool scouring in an effective and environment-friendly manner (Li because of the cost attributed to depreciation.
et al., 2012; Pan et al., 2018). This can be achieved in several ways,
such as lowering the cleaning temperature in the baths to reduce 3.4. Detergent wool scouring with an alkaline builder
the required energy for scouring, and significantly reducing the
amount of chemicals/detergent required for cleaning such that the Soap is the main detergent used for wool scouring; it is used in
toxicity of the effluents can be reduced. Li et al. (2012) reported the combination with an alkaline builder, which is usually soda ash
utilization of wool with the following specifications: 175 kg net (Branisa et al., 2019; Senthil Kumar and Grace Pavithra, 2019).
weight, 18e20 mm mean diameter, 0.3% VM, 18% coefficient of Synthetic detergents were developed because of their ability to
variation, and 64.5% scouring yield with ultrasound frequency. The react with calcium and magnesium ions in hard water to form
process was performed using an ultrasonic frequency of 80 kHz, insoluble salts. The most common ones used today in the scouring
and each panel had a maximum power of 3300 W adjustable from industry are the non-ionic types (Branisa et al., 2019). So far, syn-
0 to 100%. The volume of the bath was 600 L, and the maximum thetic detergents, which are nonyl or octylphenol ethoxylates, have
power density of 12e13 W/L was maintained in the bath been commonly used; however, their non-biodegradability and the
throughout the process. Ultrasonic radiation was only introduced associated environmental concerns have hampered their applica-
into one scouring bath (bowl 2) because industrial trials have tion in scouring processes. Consequently, the more biodegradable
shown that the use of one ultrasonic bath can significantly improve fatty alcohol ethoxylates have increasingly been used, with soda
the removal of dirt and grease. Ultrasound scouring has the ash being the most commonly employed builder. Wool scouring is
advantage of low cost and low energy consumption. It also has the often aimed at stabilizing the emulsified wool grease and dirt and
potential to utilize maximum power. However, residual ash content preventing their re-deposition on the wool (Branisa et al., 2019).
and insufficient reduction in the toxicity of the effluents produced Moreover, the typical bowl temperatures used during scouring
by the cleaning process are known limitations of ultrasonic scour- with a neutral non-ionic detergent depend on the detergent used.
ing (Pan et al., 2018). The temperature is often within 50e65 C. However, lower tem-
peratures are used when using alkaline scouring conditions (usu-
3.3. Solvent wool scouring ally less than 55 C).
The quantity of detergent used depends on the wool type being
This method has been applied to remove oily dirt from fabrics scoured; however, it is often <9 L/ton greasy weight and <3 L/ton
and to induce stress relaxation to individual fibers (Barba Albanell greasy weight for wool and crossbred wools, respectively. More
pez-Mesas et al., 2005). The solvent used in solvent
et al., 2018; Lo detergent must be added to the second and third hot scouring
scouring is trichloroethane added with some special inhibitors; bowls to achieve the greatest effect of the countercurrent flowback
these inhibitors are suitable for repeated use in solvent scouring system; however, this approach must be altered when scouring
and they do not have adverse effects on the scoured fabrics (Hong wools, especially when the detergent foams excessively in the later
2018). The grey fabric is passed through three solvent baths for the scouring bowls (Senthil Kumar and Grace Pavithra, 2019). The type
removal of oil-soluble soil. After the solvent is removed by vacuum of wool determines the rate of its scouring process. For instance, the
squeeze, the fabric enters a hot water bath. At this stage, the solvent scouring throughput of relatively clean crossbred wool can be
remaining on the fabric is instantaneously vaporized and removed approximately twice that of a low-yielding type. However, due to
as bubbles. Water-soluble soil is also removed. After hot water is the presence of multivalent metal ions, hardness can occur. In areas
squeezed out by the mangle, the fabric is sent to a cold water bath, affected by hard water, it may be necessary to install a softening
which prevents the setting of creases, and then, the fabric is folded plant to overcome this challenge. Furthermore, the presence of
by a swaying fall. The fabric is scoured in three baths. The fabric metal ions can cause severe dying problems through interaction
passes from the first bath to the third bath while the solvent flows with the dye.
7
F.A. Salem Allafi, M.S. Hossain, M.O. Ab Kadir et al. Journal of Cleaner Production 285 (2021) 124819
Table 4
Advantages and disadvantages of scCO2 technology and existing water-based sheep wool processing technology.
Conventional Water Effective in removing wool fat and dirt from sheep Requires the use of solvent with water. Bhavsar et al.,(2017); Gutarowska
based technology wool. Generates toxic effluent that must be treated prior to et al. (2017); Zhang et al. (2016)
Produce good quality of scoured wool discharge.
Less tangled wool with a high degree of white. Minimize wool fiber strength.
Require further processing technology for separating
lanolin from wool and drying the wool.
Microwave radiation Shorter treatment time. Expensive equipment. Aydin (2008); Xu et al., 2006
No chemicals required. Not suitable for scaling up.
Easy handling. Difficult to reaction monitoring.
Excellent reproducibility. Decomposition of lipid matter on the surface of the
plasma-treated fibers.
Require further processing technology for separating
lanolin from wool and drying the wool.
Plasma Shorter treatment process Requires chemicals. Czaplicki and Ruszkowski (2014); Haji
low chemical consumption High capital investment for plasma equipment and and Naebe (2020).
No wool damage. vacuum pump.
Good reproducibility. Wastewater generation.
Reducing water consumption and energy to dry Require further processing technology for separating
the treated wool. lanolin from wool and drying the wool.
scCO2 Waterless technology. High capital investment for the equipment setting Jones et al. (1997); Long et al. (2013);
It does not require any toxic chemical. up. pez-Mesas et al., 2005
Lo
No wool damage. Requires co-solvent for extracting polar organic
No generation of toxic effluent. compounds.
Sheep wool cleaning, extraction of lanolin and
drying can be carried out simultaneously.
Green technology.
8
F.A. Salem Allafi, M.S. Hossain, M.O. Ab Kadir et al. Journal of Cleaner Production 285 (2021) 124819
Table 5
Supercritical CO2 extraction of waxes from various plant matrices.
a
Matrix Parameters References
9
F.A. Salem Allafi, M.S. Hossain, M.O. Ab Kadir et al. Journal of Cleaner Production 285 (2021) 124819
Table 6
Sterilization of various materials for the inactivation of microorganism using scCO2.
a
Materials Parameters Target microbes References
method for the sterilization of polysaccharide-based medical de- from the surface of processing materials. Existing cleaning pro-
vices. Aslanidou et al. (2016) successfully disinfected an Aspergillus- cesses can be classified into dry or wet processes, and they require
niger-contaminated textile using the scCO2 sterilization technology the use of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) or detergents at high
at 15 MPa and 40 C with 5 wt% of Ca(OH)2. Hossain et al. (2016b) temperatures. However, these cleaning processes are challenging
sterilized clinical solid waste materials using scCO2 and an auto- from an environmental perspective, as they generate hazardous
clave. It was observed that scCO2 completely inactivated the residues and polluted wastewater (Aslanidou et al., 2016;
pathogenic bacteria present in the solid waste. The regrowth ana- Michelino et al., 2018). The scCO2 technology has been utilized as a
lyses of bacteria showed the regrowth of bacteria from autoclaved precision cleaning and drying method for many industrial products
clinical solid waste after 48 h of sterilization. However, no regrowth to remove dirt, including carbon nanotubes, polymers, metals, and
was observed from the scCO2-sterilized clinical waste. This is glass surfaces as well as silicon wafers (Aslanidou et al., 2016; Liu
because scCO2 inactivates the bacteria physicochemically. Physi- et al, 2015, 2016). The tunable properties of CO2 in the supercriti-
cally, the scCO2 pressure breaks and punctures the cell wall. cal state, such as its liquid-like density and gas-like viscosity, make
Chemically, scCO2 extracts the cytoplasmic materials of the scCO2 an established cleaning technology in various industrial
bacteria. fields. Owing to the very low surface tension of scCO2, which en-
sures the high wettability of materials, this technology is an
4.3. Supercritical carbon dioxide as a cleaning and drying effective precision cleaning technology. Table 7 shows the appli-
technology cation of scCO2 as a cleaning and drying technology for various
industrial materials.
Cleaning technology significantly influences product quality in In scCO2 cleaning, CO2 is used as a solvent, instead of volatile
the manufacturing industry. Generally, the cleaning process is uti- organic solvents or detergents. This minimizes the generation of
lized in the manufacturing industry to remove impurities and dirt VOC-contaminated wastewater, hazardous air pollutants, and
10
F.A. Salem Allafi, M.S. Hossain, M.O. Ab Kadir et al. Journal of Cleaner Production 285 (2021) 124819
Table 7
Cleaning and drying various manufacturing materials using scCO2.
a
Materials Purpose Parameters References
substances causing ozone depletion. However, the cleaning effi- et al., 1998; Xu et al., 2006). This conventional treatment process
ciency of scCO2 depends on the diffusion coefficient, density, sol- requires numerous chemicals and a large amount of water, result-
ubility, and polarity of the contaminates present in sheep wool (Hu ing in the generation of toxic effluents. Therefore, the conventional
and Deng, 2016). As CO2 is a non-polar molecule, its dipole moment water-based sheep wool treatment process poses serious envi-
is zero. Therefore, scCO2 has a strong dissolving capacity for organic ronmental and economic concerns. Consequently, numerous
compounds such as grease, oil, and ester (Attard et al., 2016). The alternative technologies, such as corona charge (Xu et al., 2006),
scCO2 technology has also been utilized as a drying technology for microwave (Xue, 2016) Xue, and plasma (Kan et al., 1998) have been
food (Brown et al., 2008), pharmaceutical products (Bensebia et al., applied in wool fiber processing. However, these technologies have
2016), and aerogels (Wang et al., 2016). The potential advantage of only improved the surface morphology of wool fiber, and they
scCO2 drying is that the dried products appear natural, as this require additional treatment processes for the cleaning and drying
process does not alter the shape and color of the product. In of sheep wool fiber.
addition, the process is considered a mild drying process. It can be The scCO2 technology has been introduced in the textile in-
performed at a low temperature and moderate pressure in an dustry for the extraction and separation of wool wax from raw wool
oxygen-free environment; therefore, it does not degrade the ma- and wool wax waste, as shown in Table 5. Jones et al. (1997)
terial quality and avoids destruction due to thermal stress (Wang examined the solubility of wool during the extraction of lanolin
et al., 2016). During the scCO2 drying process, water is gently from raw sheep wool using scCO2. The study reported that
removed from the materials and the texture and structure of the approximately 98% of wool wax acids and wool wax esters were
materials are maintained during rehydration. The fluid CO2 in the dissolved in scCO2 at 65 MPa and 150 C. The treated sheep wool
supercritical state rehydrates the water without interacting with fiber was odorless and pale in color, which revealed that scCO2
the internal surface of the materials, thereby preventing shrinkage effectively removed the wax materials from the sheep wool. Lo pez-
or collapse. Brown et al. (2008) utilized scCO2 to remove moisture Mesas et al. (2005) applied the scCO2 technology for the extraction
from a carrot at a pressure of 20 MPa by varying the temperature of wool wax from wool scouring waste. The purpose of this study
and adding ethanol as a solvent. The study reported that carrot was to determine the possibility of using the scCO2 technology as
dried under scCO2 had favorable rehydrated properties. Michelino an alternative to the conventional Soxhlet extraction technology.
et al. (2018) observed that the application of the scCO2 drying The study reported that the scCO2 technology completely extracted
technology did not affect the color and appearance of treated lipids and other impurities present in the wool wax waste with a
coriander leaves. Zambon et al. (2018) applied the scCO2 technology shorter extraction time (45 min) than the solvent extraction
as a drying agent for the decontamination and drying of herbs at method (4 h). Long et al. (2013) determined the effects of scCO2 on
the pressure of 10 MPa and temperatures of 40 C and 50 C for a the chemical and crystal structures of wool fiber. It was observed
drying time of 150 min. The study reported that the scCO2 tech- that scCO2 influences the re-crystallization of the polymer chain in
nology is a promising green method for both the decontamination wool fiber and the rearrangement of the chemical structure due to
and drying of herbs in a single step with relevant effects on cost and the strong affinity of hydrogen bonds within the macromolecular
safety. chain of wool fiber. In addition, analyses of the thermal properties
of scCO2-treated wool fiber revealed that the treatment enhanced
4.4. Potential and challenges of scCO2 technology in sheep wool the thermal properties of wool fiber.
processing Thus, the scCO2 technology has the potential to be utilized in the
sheep wool processing and textile industries as an alternative to
Sheep wool is widely used as a warm clothing material in the conventional water-based sheep wool processing. The adoption of
textile industry and as a technical material in various industrial the scCO2 technology in sheep wool fiber processing can have
fields owing to its high quality and excellent properties. However, numerous advantages, including cleaner production of wool tex-
the fabrication of sheep wool involves effective water-based tiles with a waterless treatment process to avoid the generation of
washing, scouring, bleaching, drying, and functional finishing toxic effluents. Existing sheep wool processing methods require
processes to remove dirt, suint, wax, and other impurities (Kan multiple processing steps, including wool scouring for removing
11
F.A. Salem Allafi, M.S. Hossain, M.O. Ab Kadir et al. Journal of Cleaner Production 285 (2021) 124819
lanolin, wool cleaning to remove suint and dirt, and wool drying to need for a waterless technology for cleaner sheep wool production.
remove moisture. Sheep wool processing steps such as the sterili- Currently, steam-based technology in sheep wool processing re-
zation of sheep wool, extraction of lanolin/wax, and cleaning and quires a series of water-based treatment processes and chemicals,
drying of sheep wool can be conducted simultaneously with the which consequently generates significant amounts of toxic efflu-
application of the scCO2 technology, as shown in Fig. 5. The ents. The scCO2, as a waterless technology, has been extensively
implementation of the scCO2 technology in sheep wool processing utilized in the sterilization, extraction cleaning, and drying tech-
has the following advantages: nology for processing various solid matrices. Thus, scCO2 technol-
ogy has considerable potential for use in sheep wool processing.
No generation of toxic effluents The scCO2 technology can be simultaneously utilized in sheep wool
Extraction of lanolin as a byproduct for cosmetic applications processing to sterilize microorganisms, extract lanolin, and clean
Enhanced dyeability and dry the sheep wool. It produces clean and pesticide-free sheep
Avoiding multiple processing steps wool fibers without generating toxic effluents. However, the chal-
Obtaining high-quality sheep wool with lower processing cost lenges of using scCO2 technology are the equipment price and polar
Time and energy saving organic compounds in sheep wool. Thus, further laboratory studies
Avoiding the use of toxic VOCs are required to optimize the experimental conditions of scCO2 and
It is a green technology. determine suitable co-solvents to enhance the solubility of fluid
CO2.
However, there are some limitations to the utilization of scCO2
in sheep wool processing. The major limitation of the use of scCO2 Declaration of competing interest
in sheep wool processing is the cost associated with high-pressure
technology (Luo et al., 2018). Besides, this processing technology The authors declare that they have no known competing
operates at high pressure (10e40 MPa) and moderate temperature financial interests or personal relationships that could have
(35 Ce80 C), which results in high investment cost that stand the appeared to influence the work reported in this paper.
way industrial implementation (Luo et al., 2018; Zhang et al., 2019).
In addition, the solubility of polar compounds and high-molecular- Acknowledgement
weight compounds in scCO2 is poor (Long et al., 2013). Although,
the fluid CO2 is an excellent solvent for non-polar compounds, but Authors would like to acknowledge to Ministry of Education
the low dielectric constant of CO2 makes difficult to extract ionic MoE, Malaysia for providing Fundamental Research Grant Scheme
and polar compounds. As sheep wool contains potassium organic FRGS, Grant N)-203/PTEKIND/6711817, as a financial support.
salts, it requires the addition of polar organic solvents such as
ethanol, hydrogen peroxide, and ether as a co-solvent, or chemical References
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