Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Make
Honda
Model
Prelude
Date
1st January 2018
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Control
Module > Component Information > Locations
Body Components.
Inside RH Door
Applicable to: 1988 Prelude
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Sunroof/Moonroof Relay <-->
[Sunroof / Moonroof Relay] > Component Information > Locations
Sunroof/Moonroof Relay: Locations
I/P Components.
1. Check for continuity between terminals 3 and 4, Fig. 32. There should no continuity.
2. Connect a 12 volt battery across terminals 1 and 2. There should be continuity between 3 and 4.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Relay <--> [Condenser
Fan Motor Relay, HVAC] > Component Information > Locations
1. Check for continuity between terminals 3 and 4, Fig. 32. There should no continuity.
2. Connect a 12 volt battery across terminals 1 and 2. There should be continuity between 3 and 4.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > A/C Compressor Control Unit <-->
[Control Module HVAC] > Component Information > Locations
A/C Compressor Control Unit: Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 66
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 67
Ground Distribution Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 68
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 70
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 71
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 72
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 75
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 76
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 77
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 78
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 79
Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 80
Troubleshooting Precautions
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 81
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 82
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 83
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 84
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 85
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 86
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 88
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 89
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 90
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 92
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Body Components.
Circuit testing may require the use of a system checker harness No. 07999-PD60000A, Fig. 23.
The main relay, located at the back of the fuse box, is a direct coupler type which contains relays
for the ECU power supply and fuel pump power supply, Figs. 20 and 21.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations
2. Remove fuel cut-off relay and check for continuity between No. 3 terminal and body ground.
Continuity should exist.
3. If there is no continuity, check black wire between fuel cut-off relay and ground No. G401.
4. Attach positive probe of voltmeter to No. 2 terminal and negative probe to No. 3 terminal, then
turn ignition switch to On position. Battery voltage should be available.
5. If there is no voltage, check black/yellow wire from ignition switch and fuel cut-off relay as well as
No. 12 fuse.
6. Turn ignition switch to Off position and attach positive probe of voltmeter to No. 4 terminal and
negative probe to No. 3 terminal, then turn ignition switch to On position. Battery voltage should be
available.
7. If there is no voltage, check blue wire from ignition coil and fuel cut-off relay.
8. Turn ignition switch to Off position and connect jumper wire between No. 1 terminal and No. 2
terminal.
10. If fuel pump does not run, remove left maintenance access cover in luggage area and
disconnect 2 pin connector, then attach positive probe of voltmeter to yellow/black terminal and
negative probe to body ground. Battery voltage should be available.
11. If there is battery voltage, check black wire between fuel pump and ground No. G401 and
replace fuel pump.
12. If battery voltage is not available, check yellow/black wire between fuel cut-off relay and fuel
pump.
13. If wires are satisfactory in steps 11 and 12, replace fuel cut-off relay and repeat test.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Description and
Operation
The main relay, located at the back of the fuse box, is a direct coupler type which contains relays
for the ECU power supply and fuel pump power supply, Figs. 20 and 21.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Ignition System > Igniter <--> [Ignition Control Module] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Igniter: Testing and Inspection
1. On models with Hitachi distributor, disconnect lead wires from igniter unit. On models with Toyo
Denso distributor, remove igniter cover and pull out igniter unit.
2. Check voltage between blue wire and ground, then between black/yellow wire and ground with
ignition switch in ON position, Fig. 1. Battery voltage should be present. On models with Toyo
Denso distributor, two blue wires are used. Be sure to perform voltage check on blue wire indicated
in Fig. 1.
3. If battery voltage is not present at either wire, trace circuit and repair as needed.
4. Measure resistance between green terminal and other blue terminal on pickup coil. If resistance
is not approximately 750 ohms at 70°F, replace pickup coil.
5. Check continuity between igniter unit terminals shown in Fig. 2, connecting ohmmeter leads in
both directions. Continuity should be present in one direction only.
6. If continuity is indicated in both directions or if continuity is not indicated in either direction, igniter
is defective.
7. Connect ohmmeter positive probe to blue terminal and negative probe to ground, then measure
resistance on igniter input. Resistance should be at least 50,000 ohms at 70°F.
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Ignition System > Igniter <--> [Ignition Control Module] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 134
Fig. 3 Igniter Unit Distributor Terminal Identification.
1. Remove distributor.
3. Check voltage between BLU1 terminal and body ground, then the BLK/YEL terminal and body
ground with ignition switch in On position, Fig. 3. There should be battery voltage.
4. Measure resistance between GRN and BLU2 terminals on pickup coil and replace pickup coil if
resistance is not 650---850 ohms at 70°F.
5. Check for continuity in both directions between A and B terminals on igniter output, Fig. 4. There
should be continuity in only one direction.
6. Connect ohmmeter positive probe to terminal D and negative probe to ground, then measure
resistance of igniter input. Resistance should be 450---550 ohms or greater at 70°F.
Hitachi Type
2. Disconnect wires from igniter unit and check voltage between blue wire and body ground, then
black/yellow wire and body ground, with ignition switch in On position. There should be battery
voltage.
3. With wires disconnected, check for continuity in both directions between terminals. There should
be continuity in only one direction.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
Seat Belt Control Module: Locations
Body Components.
Body Components.
Inside LH Door
Applicable to: 1988 Prelude
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Power Window Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Power Window Relay: Locations
Front Of Engine
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 177
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 178
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 179
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 182
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 183
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 184
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 185
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 186
Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 187
Troubleshooting Precautions
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 188
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 189
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 190
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 191
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 192
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 193
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 195
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 196
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 197
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 199
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Disconnect the RED wire from the sender. 2. With the engine cold, use an ohmmeter to measure
resistance between the positive terminal and the engine (ground). 3. Check the temperature of the
coolant. 4. Run the engine and measure the change in resistance with the engine at operating
temperature (cooling fan comes on).
5. If obtained readings are substantially different from specifications above, replace the gauge
sender.
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Oil Pressure Switch: Specifications
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Remove the YEL/RED wire from the oil pressure switch. 2. There should be continuity between
the positive terminal and the engine (ground) with the engine stopped. There should be no
continuity when the
engine runs.
3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level, then inspect the oil pump and pressure if
the oil level is correct.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Air Conditioning Switch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Dip the sensor, Fig. 32 into a pan filled with ice water, check for continuity between the terminals.
Cut off 1.5 - -0.5~C (35-33~F) Cut in 2.5 - 5~C (36-41~F) If cut off or cut in temperatures are too
low or too high, replace the thermo switch.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Measure resistance between connector pins on tank unit, that correspond to yellow/white and black
wires. Resistance should be:
E (empty) .............................................................................................................................................
................................................ 105-110 ohms 1/2 (half full) ................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 25.5-39.5 ohms F (full) .
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................................... 2-5 ohms
WARNING: Don't smoke or allow open flames in work area or around open fuel systems.
Removal
3. Reverse procedure to install, allowing 0.039-0.196 inch (1-5 mm) brake pedal free play.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlight Switch <-->
[Headlamp Switch] > Component Information > Service and Repair
Headlight Switch: Service and Repair
3. Remove steering column upper and lower attaching screws, then remove covers.
4. On models equipped with cruise control, remove cruise control slip ring.
3. Remove steering column upper and lower attaching screws, then remove covers.
4. On models equipped with cruise control, remove cruise control slip ring.
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications
Front Of Engine
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 286
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The sensors and distributor are designed as a single assembly. The entire assembly consists of a
pair or rotors, TDC/CYL sensors, and a pickup for each rotor. The rotors are coupled to the
camshaft and turn together as a unit as the camshaft rotates. The CYL sensor detects position of
the No. 1 cylinder. The TDC sensor determines injection timing for each cylinder, and also monitors
engine speed to read out the basic discharge duration for different operating conditions.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
TDC/Crank Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair TDC/Crank Sensor
Fig. 41 Removing TDC & CRANK rotors
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
TDC/Crank Sensor > Page 289
Fig. 42 Installing TDC & CRANK rotors
1988 Prelude
3. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 41, being careful not to
damage rotors.
6. Install TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 42, with part numbers facing up.
1988 Prelude
2. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up CYL rotor, being careful not to damage rotor.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
TDC/Crank Sensor > Page 291
3. Pull CYL coil assembly and mount rubber out from sensor housing by removing screws.
4. Remove C-clip.
6. Separate coupling from shaft by removing roll pin, then remove rotor shaft.
7. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to sensor housing and install washers on rotor shaft, then
install shaft in sensor housing and install new C-clip.
8. Install coupling with index mark facing as shown, Fig. 43, then install pin and the pin retainer.
9. Install mount rubber, then the CYL coil assembly and the CYL rotor. Install rotor with part
number facing up and install roll pin so that it faces as shown, Fig. 44.
11. Install new O-ring on sensor housing, then slip sensor into position.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > EGR Valve Lift Sensor <--> [EGR Valve Position Sensor] > Component
Information > Locations
EGR Valve Lift Sensor: Locations
Fuel & Emission System (Part 1 Of 3).
On EGR Valve
1. Connect suitable system checker harness between ECU and wire harness coupler, then turn on
ignition.
2. Measure voltage between terminal C13 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12 (green/white ( - )) of
system checker harness.
3. If 1.0-1.4 volts are present, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and
components. If EGR still is not satisfactory, replace original ECU. If 1.0-1.4 volts are not present,
proceed to step 4.
4. Turn off ignition, then check for open or short circuit in terminals C12 and C13 between EGR
valve lift sensor and ECU.
5. If open or short is present, proceed to step 6. If open or short is not present, wire harness is
faulty.
6. Turn on ignition, then connect suitable hand vacuum pump to upper hose of the EGR valve.
7. While applying vacuum, measure voltage between terminal C8 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12
(green/white (-) of the system harness checker.
8. If voltage is not as specified in Fig. 66, replace EGR valve lift sensor. If voltage is as specified in
Fig. 66, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and components. If EGR is still not
satisfactory, replace original ECU.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Center Of Cowl
In Control Box
In Exhaust Manifold
In Control Box
The speed sensor, Figs. 75, 76 and 77, is essentially a photo interrupter and is mounted in the
speedometer. It is activated at a predetermined vehicle speed by a sealed plate rotating with the
speedometer shaft.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Emission Control Systems > EGR Valve Lift Sensor <--> [EGR Valve Position Sensor] > Component Information
> Locations
EGR Valve Lift Sensor: Locations
Fuel & Emission System (Part 1 Of 3).
On EGR Valve
1. Connect suitable system checker harness between ECU and wire harness coupler, then turn on
ignition.
2. Measure voltage between terminal C13 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12 (green/white ( - )) of
system checker harness.
3. If 1.0-1.4 volts are present, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and
components. If EGR still is not satisfactory, replace original ECU. If 1.0-1.4 volts are not present,
proceed to step 4.
4. Turn off ignition, then check for open or short circuit in terminals C12 and C13 between EGR
valve lift sensor and ECU.
5. If open or short is present, proceed to step 6. If open or short is not present, wire harness is
faulty.
6. Turn on ignition, then connect suitable hand vacuum pump to upper hose of the EGR valve.
7. While applying vacuum, measure voltage between terminal C8 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12
(green/white (-) of the system harness checker.
8. If voltage is not as specified in Fig. 66, replace EGR valve lift sensor. If voltage is as specified in
Fig. 66, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and components. If EGR is still not
satisfactory, replace original ECU.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
TDC/Crank Sensor - Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins TDC/Crank Sensor - Replacement
Prelude TDC/CRANK Sensor Replacement
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
345
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The sensors and distributor are designed as a single assembly. The entire assembly consists of a
pair or rotors, TDC/CYL sensors, and a pickup for each rotor. The rotors are coupled to the
camshaft and turn together as a unit as the camshaft rotates. The CYL sensor detects position of
the No. 1 cylinder. The TDC sensor determines injection timing for each cylinder, and also monitors
engine speed to read out the basic discharge duration for different operating conditions.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > TDC/Crank
Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair TDC/Crank Sensor
Fig. 41 Removing TDC & CRANK rotors
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > TDC/Crank
Sensor > Page 348
Fig. 42 Installing TDC & CRANK rotors
1988 Prelude
3. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 41, being careful not to
damage rotors.
6. Install TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 42, with part numbers facing up.
1988 Prelude
2. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up CYL rotor, being careful not to damage rotor.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > TDC/Crank
Sensor > Page 350
3. Pull CYL coil assembly and mount rubber out from sensor housing by removing screws.
4. Remove C-clip.
6. Separate coupling from shaft by removing roll pin, then remove rotor shaft.
7. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to sensor housing and install washers on rotor shaft, then
install shaft in sensor housing and install new C-clip.
8. Install coupling with index mark facing as shown, Fig. 43, then install pin and the pin retainer.
9. Install mount rubber, then the CYL coil assembly and the CYL rotor. Install rotor with part
number facing up and install roll pin so that it faces as shown, Fig. 44.
11. Install new O-ring on sensor housing, then slip sensor into position.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 356
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
6. On all models, position suitable tool into hole on lock cylinder housing and depress pin, then
remove lock cylinder from housing.
INSTALLATION
a. Place ignition lock cylinder in the LOCK position. b. Rotate key until it is almost at the ACC
position, then insert lock cylinder until pin contacts housing. c. Rotate key to ACC position, then
push pin in and insert lock cylinder into housing until pin clicks into place.
a. Place ingnition lock cylinder in the O position. b. Rotate key until it is almost at the I position,
then insert lock cylinder until pin contacts housing. c. Rotate key to I position, then push pin in and
insert lock cylinder into housing until pin clicks into place.
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 363
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
6. On all models, position suitable tool into hole on lock cylinder housing and depress pin, then
remove lock cylinder from housing.
INSTALLATION
a. Place ignition lock cylinder in the LOCK position. b. Rotate key until it is almost at the ACC
position, then insert lock cylinder until pin contacts housing. c. Rotate key to ACC position, then
push pin in and insert lock cylinder into housing until pin clicks into place.
a. Place ingnition lock cylinder in the O position. b. Rotate key until it is almost at the I position,
then insert lock cylinder until pin contacts housing. c. Rotate key to I position, then push pin in and
insert lock cylinder into housing until pin clicks into place.
4. Remove the two bolts holding switch to selector lever control assembly and remove switch.
5. To install, position switch slider to Neutral position on all except Accord and Prelude models. On
Accord and Prelude models, position switch slider in Park position.
6. Ensure gear selector lever is in Neutral position on all except 1984-86 Accord and 1984-87
Prelude models. On 1984-86 Accord and 1984-87 Prelude models, position gear selector lever in
Park position.
7. Position switch with selector lever actuator rod inserted in its slot in switch slider.
8. Hook forward end of switch bracket over forward end of selector lever control assembly and
tighten attaching bolts.
1988 Prelude
1. Turn ignition switch to On position and observe shift indicator light while shifting into each range.
2. If light does not work properly, check linkage and shift indicator and repair as necessary.
3. Turn ignition switch to Off position and connect system checker harness between ECU and
connector, Fig. 23, but disconnect B connector from engine compartment wiring harness only, not
the ECU.
4. Turn ignition switch on and measure voltage between B7 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal.
5. If voltage is not approximately 5 volts, substitute known good ECU and repeat test and, if voltage
is now approximately 5 volts, replace original ECU.
7. If voltage is not below 1 volt, repair open in light green wire between ECU terminal B7 and
combination meter and/or repair open in green wire between combination meter and shift position
console switch.
8. If voltage is below 1 volt, measure voltage between B7 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal in Park
position.
9. If voltage is not below 1 volt, repair open in green/white wire between combination meter and
shift position console switch.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Defogger Switch <-->
[Heated Glass Element Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Defogger
Switch: > 89028 > Jan > 90 > Battery - Repeated Discharge
Model Applicable To
JAN 1990
'88-89 Prelude Low Charge Rate (Supersedes 89-028, dated December 15, 1989) SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
- Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure. '88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the '88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Defogger Switch <-->
[Heated Glass Element Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Defogger
Switch: > 89028 > Jan > 90 > Battery - Repeated Discharge > Page 381
'88 Prelude:
'89 Prelude
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model
Bulletin No.
89-028
NOV 17,1989
SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
^ Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure.
'88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
4. Reinstall the power steering drive belt.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the'88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
PARTS INFORMATION
'88 Prelude:
Kit includes:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Defogger Switch <-->
[Heated Glass Element Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Defogger
Switch: > 89028 > Nov > 89 > Battery - Discharges Repeatedly > Page 386
* ACG Pulley 31141-PK1-305
* ACG Belt 31100-PK1-305
'89 Prelude
H/C:3378627
Kit includes:
Out-of-warranty: This repair, like any other repair performed after warranty expiration, may be
eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration,
and get the DSM's decision, before starting work. Operation number:
118105
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model Applicable To
JAN 1990
'88-89 Prelude Low Charge Rate (Supersedes 89-028, dated December 15, 1989) SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
- Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure. '88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the '88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Defogger Switch <-->
[Heated Glass Element Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Defogger Switch: > 89028 > Jan > 90 > Battery - Repeated Discharge > Page 392
'88 Prelude:
'89 Prelude
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model
Bulletin No.
89-028
NOV 17,1989
SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
^ Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure.
'88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
4. Reinstall the power steering drive belt.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the'88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
PARTS INFORMATION
'88 Prelude:
Kit includes:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Defogger Switch <-->
[Heated Glass Element Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Defogger Switch: > 89028 > Nov > 89 > Battery - Discharges Repeatedly > Page 397
* ACG Pulley 31141-PK1-305
* ACG Belt 31100-PK1-305
'89 Prelude
H/C:3378627
Kit includes:
Out-of-warranty: This repair, like any other repair performed after warranty expiration, may be
eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration,
and get the DSM's decision, before starting work. Operation number:
118105
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
The following procedure applies to 1984-85 and 1988 Prelude and 1988 Civic and CRX models
which utilize a removable wiper/washer switch. On all other models, the wiper/washer switch is
integral with the combination switch. Refer to ``Combination Switch, Replace'' for procedure.
The following procedure applies to 1984-85 and 1988 Prelude and 1988 Civic and CRX models
which utilize a removable wiper/washer switch. On all other models, the wiper/washer switch is
integral with the combination switch. Refer to ``Combination Switch, Replace'' for procedure.
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 416
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 417
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 418
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 419
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 421
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 422
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 430
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 431
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 432
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 433
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 435
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 436
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment
1988 87-024
Four-Wheel Steering (4WS) Wheel Alignment The wheel alignment procedure for the 1988 Prelude
Si with four-wheel steering has been refined since the service manual was issued. The procedure
below supersedes the procedures in the '88 Prelude Service Manual and in the August '88 issue of
Service News. PREPARATION
NOTE: Your alignment equipment must be capable of four-wheel alignment and use full-floating
turntables for all four wheels, or full-floating turntables for the front wheels and full-floating slip
plates for the rear wheels. All of the full-floating turntables/slip plates must be of equal height.
4. Remove the No. 32 (brake light) fuse from the under-hood relay box.
7. Perform wheel runout checks according to the alignment equipment manufacturer's instructions.
9. Place the full-floating turntables, with locking pins installed, under all four wheels.
10. With the car's wheels in the straight ahead position, lower the car onto the turntables.
11. Remove the locking pins from the turntables and bounce both ends of the car up and down
several times to "settle" the suspension.
ALIGNMENT
NOTE: ^
^ If certain portions of this procedure are not applicable to your type of alignment equipment, refer
to the equipment manufacturer's instructions.
Front Caster
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment > Page 441
NOTE: Make sure the wheel hubs are clean and rust-free before installing the wheel alignment
attachments.
2. Install a camber/caster gauge on the Wheel Alignment Gauge Attachment and turn the wheel
20~ inward.
3. Turn the adjust screw so that the bubble in the caster gauge is at 0~.
4. Turn the wheel 20~ outward and read the caster on the gauge.
5. If adjustment is required, record the caster reading and go to step 6. If adjustment is not
required, go to step 12.
NOTE: One full turn of the adjuster moves the radius rod 1.5 mm (0.06 in.) and changes the caster
by 20'.
10. Hold the radius rod adjuster nut in place and tighten the self-locking nut.
13. Check the camber of each front wheel using the gauge.
14. Adjust the camber, if necessary, by loosening the upper arm locknuts and moving the knuckle/
hub assembly.
Rear Camber
15. Install the Rear Steering Center Lock Pin (T/N 07HAJ-SF1020A).
16. Check the camber of each rear wheel using the camber gauge.
NOTE: The difference in camber between the right and left wheels should be less than 20'.
17. Adjust the camber, if necessary, by loosening the upper arm locknuts and moving the
knuckle/hub assembly.
Steering Wheel Alignment - Static (While the car is on the alignment rack)
18. Check the steering wheel alignment. If it's off by more than 6~ (5 mm at the steering wheel
hub), remove the steering wheel and reposition it on the splines until it's within 6~.
19. Remove the Rear Steering Center Lock Pin and reinstall the gearbox cap bolt.
20. Turn the steering wheel until it is precisely centered in the straight-ahead position and secure it
with a steering wheel holder.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment > Page 443
Rear Toe
Right rear toe-in: 1 - 2 mm Left rear toe-in: 1 - 2 mm Total rear toe-in: 3 +/- 1 mm
22. Loosen the tie-rod locknut and turn the tie-rod shaft until the toe setting is correct.
NOTE: One full turn of the tie-rod shaft changes the toe approximately 8.7 mm (11/32 in.).
23. After adjustment, tighten the tie-rod shaft locknut and reposition the tie-rod boot if necessary.
Front Toe
25. Loosen the tie-rod locknut and turn the tie-rod shaft until the toe setting is correct.
NOTE: One full turn of the tie-rod shaft changes the toe approximately 7.2 mm (9/32 in.).
26. After adjustment, tighten the tie-rod shaft locknut and reposition the tie-rod boot if necessary,
27. Recheck the final toe settings.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment > Page 444
28. Reinstall the No. 32 fuse, remove the brake pedal actuator, steering wheel holder, and the car
from the alignment rack, CAUTION: Be sure the Rear Steering Center Lock Pin was removed
before moving the car off the alignment rack (step 19).
29. Place a strip of masking tape on the steering wheel hub and another on the upper column
cover. Draw a line across both pieces of tape with the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position.
30. Drive the car in a straight line on a flat road and check the steering wheel alignment.
31. If the steering wheel alignment is off by more than 3~ (2.5 mm), return the car to the alignment
rack and recheck the toe settings. If the steering wheel alignment is off by less than 3~ go to step
32.
32. Steering wheel off to left: face the inside of the left front wheel and turn the left tie-rod
clockwise; then face the inside of the right front wheel and turn the right tie-rod shaft
counterclockwise. Each tie-rod shaft should be turned an equal amount.
Steering wheel off to right: face the inside of the right front wheel and turn the right tie-rod shaft
clockwise; then face the inside of the left front wheel and turn the left tie-rod shaft
counterclockwise. Each tie-rod shaft should be turned an equal amount.
33. After adjustment, tighten the tie-rod shaft locknuts and reposition the tie-rod boots if necessary.
34. Drive the car in a straight line on a flat road and recheck the final steering wheel alignment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment
1988 87-024
Four-Wheel Steering (4WS) Wheel Alignment The wheel alignment procedure for the 1988 Prelude
Si with four-wheel steering has been refined since the service manual was issued. The procedure
below supersedes the procedures in the '88 Prelude Service Manual and in the August '88 issue of
Service News. PREPARATION
NOTE: Your alignment equipment must be capable of four-wheel alignment and use full-floating
turntables for all four wheels, or full-floating turntables for the front wheels and full-floating slip
plates for the rear wheels. All of the full-floating turntables/slip plates must be of equal height.
4. Remove the No. 32 (brake light) fuse from the under-hood relay box.
7. Perform wheel runout checks according to the alignment equipment manufacturer's instructions.
9. Place the full-floating turntables, with locking pins installed, under all four wheels.
10. With the car's wheels in the straight ahead position, lower the car onto the turntables.
11. Remove the locking pins from the turntables and bounce both ends of the car up and down
several times to "settle" the suspension.
ALIGNMENT
NOTE: ^
^ If certain portions of this procedure are not applicable to your type of alignment equipment, refer
to the equipment manufacturer's instructions.
Front Caster
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment > Page 450
NOTE: Make sure the wheel hubs are clean and rust-free before installing the wheel alignment
attachments.
2. Install a camber/caster gauge on the Wheel Alignment Gauge Attachment and turn the wheel
20~ inward.
3. Turn the adjust screw so that the bubble in the caster gauge is at 0~.
4. Turn the wheel 20~ outward and read the caster on the gauge.
5. If adjustment is required, record the caster reading and go to step 6. If adjustment is not
required, go to step 12.
NOTE: One full turn of the adjuster moves the radius rod 1.5 mm (0.06 in.) and changes the caster
by 20'.
10. Hold the radius rod adjuster nut in place and tighten the self-locking nut.
13. Check the camber of each front wheel using the gauge.
14. Adjust the camber, if necessary, by loosening the upper arm locknuts and moving the knuckle/
hub assembly.
Rear Camber
15. Install the Rear Steering Center Lock Pin (T/N 07HAJ-SF1020A).
16. Check the camber of each rear wheel using the camber gauge.
NOTE: The difference in camber between the right and left wheels should be less than 20'.
17. Adjust the camber, if necessary, by loosening the upper arm locknuts and moving the
knuckle/hub assembly.
Steering Wheel Alignment - Static (While the car is on the alignment rack)
18. Check the steering wheel alignment. If it's off by more than 6~ (5 mm at the steering wheel
hub), remove the steering wheel and reposition it on the splines until it's within 6~.
19. Remove the Rear Steering Center Lock Pin and reinstall the gearbox cap bolt.
20. Turn the steering wheel until it is precisely centered in the straight-ahead position and secure it
with a steering wheel holder.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment > Page 452
Rear Toe
Right rear toe-in: 1 - 2 mm Left rear toe-in: 1 - 2 mm Total rear toe-in: 3 +/- 1 mm
22. Loosen the tie-rod locknut and turn the tie-rod shaft until the toe setting is correct.
NOTE: One full turn of the tie-rod shaft changes the toe approximately 8.7 mm (11/32 in.).
23. After adjustment, tighten the tie-rod shaft locknut and reposition the tie-rod boot if necessary.
Front Toe
25. Loosen the tie-rod locknut and turn the tie-rod shaft until the toe setting is correct.
NOTE: One full turn of the tie-rod shaft changes the toe approximately 7.2 mm (9/32 in.).
26. After adjustment, tighten the tie-rod shaft locknut and reposition the tie-rod boot if necessary,
27. Recheck the final toe settings.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment > Page 453
28. Reinstall the No. 32 fuse, remove the brake pedal actuator, steering wheel holder, and the car
from the alignment rack, CAUTION: Be sure the Rear Steering Center Lock Pin was removed
before moving the car off the alignment rack (step 19).
29. Place a strip of masking tape on the steering wheel hub and another on the upper column
cover. Draw a line across both pieces of tape with the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position.
30. Drive the car in a straight line on a flat road and check the steering wheel alignment.
31. If the steering wheel alignment is off by more than 3~ (2.5 mm), return the car to the alignment
rack and recheck the toe settings. If the steering wheel alignment is off by less than 3~ go to step
32.
32. Steering wheel off to left: face the inside of the left front wheel and turn the left tie-rod
clockwise; then face the inside of the right front wheel and turn the right tie-rod shaft
counterclockwise. Each tie-rod shaft should be turned an equal amount.
Steering wheel off to right: face the inside of the right front wheel and turn the right tie-rod shaft
clockwise; then face the inside of the left front wheel and turn the left tie-rod shaft
counterclockwise. Each tie-rod shaft should be turned an equal amount.
33. After adjustment, tighten the tie-rod shaft locknuts and reposition the tie-rod boots if necessary.
34. Drive the car in a straight line on a flat road and recheck the final steering wheel alignment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 454
Alignment: By Symptom
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 457
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 458
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
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Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 459
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 460
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 462
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 463
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 465
to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the
maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives
in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 466
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 467
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 468
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 469
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 471
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 472
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 473
Alignment: Specifications
CAUTION: When fasteners are removed, always reinstall them at the same location from which
they were removed. If a fastener needs to be replaced, use the correct part number fastener for
that application. If the correct part number fastener is not available, a fastener of equal size and
strength (or stronger) may be used. Fasteners that are not reused, and those requiring thread
locking compound will be called out. The correct torque value must be used when installing
fasteners that require it. If the above conditions are not followed, parts or system damage could
result.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > General
Description
Alignment: Description and Operation General Description
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
"Front End Alignment" refers to the angular relationship between the front wheels, the front
suspension attaching parts and the ground. Proper front end alignment must be maintained in
order to insure efficient steering, good directional stability and to prevent abnormal tire wear. The
most important factors of front end alignment are wheel toe-in, wheel camber and axle caster.
CAMBER:
Camber is the vertical tilting inward or outward of the front wheels. When the wheels tilt outward at
the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt inward at the top, the camber is negative
(-). The amount of tilt measured in degrees from the vertical is called the camber angle (1). If
camber is extreme or unequal between the wheels, improper steering and excessive tire wear will
result. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear
to the outside.
CASTER:
This illustration shows view from the side of the vehicle. Caster (1) is the vertical tilting of the wheel
axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is
positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). On the short and long arm type suspension you cannot
see a caster angle without a special instrument, but if you look straight down from the top of the
upper control arm to the ground, the ball joints do not line up (fore and aft) when a caster angle
other than 0 degree is present. With a positive angle, the lower ball joint would be slightly ahead
(toward the front of the vehicle) of the upper ball joint center line.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > General
Description > Page 477
TOE-IN:
This illustration shows view from the top of the vehicle. Toe-in is the measured amount the front
wheels are turn in. The actual amount of toe-in is normally a fraction of a degree. Toe-in is
measured from the center of the tire treads or from the inside of the tires. The purpose of toe-in is
to insure parallel rolling of the front wheels and to offset any small deflections of the wheel support
system which occurs when the vehicle is rolling forward. Incorrect toe-in results in excessive toe-in
and unstable steering. Toe-in is the last alignment to be set in the front end alignment procedure.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > General
Description > Page 478
Camber is the inward or outward tilting of the front wheels from the vertical. When the wheels tilt
outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt inward at the top, the camber is
negative (-). The amount of tilt measured in degrees from the vertical is called the camber angle. If
camber is extreme or unequal between the wheels, improper steering and excessive tire wear will
result. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear
to the outside.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > General
Description > Page 479
Caster is the tilting of the wheel axis either forward or backward from the vertical (when viewed
from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). On the
short and long arm type suspension you cannot see a caster angle without a special instrument,
but if you look straight down from the top of the upper control arm to the ground, the ball joints do
not line up (fore and aft) when a caster angle other than 0 degree is present. With a positive angle,
the lower ball joint would be slightly ahead (toward the front of the vehicle) of the upper ball joint
center line.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > General
Description > Page 480
Toe-in is the turning of the front wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally a fraction of a
degree. Toe-in is measured from the center of the tire treads or from the inside of the tires. The
purpose of toe-in is to insure parallel rolling of the front wheels and to offset any small deflections
of the wheel support system which occurs when the vehicle is rolling forward. Incorrect toe-in
results in excessive toe-in and unstable steering. Toe-in is the last alignment to be set in the front
end alignment procedure.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation > Page 481
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary Checks
Alignment: Service and Repair Preliminary Checks
INSPECTION
Before making any adjustments affecting caster, camber or toe-in, the following front end
inspection should be made. 1. Inspect the tires for proper inflation pressure. 2. Inspect the front
wheel bearings for proper adjustment. 3. inspect the ball joints and tie rod ends. If excessive
looseness is noted, correct before adjusting. 4. Inspect the wheel and tires for run-out. 5. Inspect
the trim height. If not within specifications, the correction must be made before adjusting caster. 6.
Inspect the steering unit for looseness at the frame. 7. Inspect shock absorbers for leaks or any
noticeable noise. 8. Inspect the control arms or stabilizer bar attachment for looseness. 9. Inspect
the front end alignment using alignment equipment. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Toe-In
2. Turn both tie rods in the same direction until both front wheels are positioned straight ahead.
3. Adjust toe to specifications by turning both tie rods in the same direction, then tighten tie rod
locknuts.
Ensure tires are properly inflated prior to checking or adjusting caster angles.
1. Raise front of vehicle and position turning radius gauges under front wheels, then lower vehicle.
2. Remove spindle nut and install suitable caster gauge and adapter, Fig. 1.
4. Position caster gauge at 0°, then return wheels to straight-ahead position and note gauge
reading. If caster angle is not within specifications, inspect suspension components for damage
and repair as necessary, then recheck caster.
5. If caster adjustment is necessary, loosen radius rod adjuster locknut and self-locking nut on end
of radius rod, Fig. 2.
6. Turn radius rod adjuster in to increase caster or out to decrease caster as necessary. One
complete revolution of the adjuster moves radius rod .049 inch and changes caster 2/15°.
7. Tighten radius rod adjuster locknut and self-locking nut, then recheck caster angle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary Checks >
Page 485
Camber Inspection & Adjustment
Ensure tires are properly inflated prior to checking or adjusting camber angles.
1. Remove spindle nut and install suitable camber gauge and adapter, Fig. 3. with wheels in
straight-ahead position.
2. Note gauge reading with bubble centered on the gauge. If camber is not within specifications,
inspection suspension components for damage and repair as necessary, then recheck camber.
3. If camber adjustment is necessary, loosen upper arm attaching nuts, Fig. 4, then hold wheel by
hand and adjust camber to 0° on gauge.
Rear
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Preliminary Checks >
Page 486
Fig. 5 Rear toe-in adjustment. Prelude less 4 wheel steering & 1984-85 Accord
2. Loosen locknut in rear radius arm pivot bolt, then turn adjusting bolt, Fig. 5, until toe-in is within
specifications.
Rear toe is adjusted by loosening the tie rod end lock nuts and rotating the tie rods. After
completing adjustment, torque tie rod end lock nuts to 33 ft. lbs.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
Fuel Pressure: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement
Parts
97-020
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts > Page 492
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
3. Start engine, then measure fuel pressure with engine idling and vacuum hose of pressure
regulator disconnected. Pressure should be 33---39 psi for 1985---86 models or 36---41 psi on
1987---88 models.
4. If fuel pressure is not as specified, check fuel pump for proper operation. Repair or replace as
required.
5. If fuel pump is satisfactory and fuel pressure is higher than specified, proceed as follows:
a. Check for pinched or clogged fuel return hose or piping. b. Check for defective pressure
regulator.
6. If fuel pump is satisfactory and fuel pressure is lower than specified, proceed as follows:
a. Check for clogged fuel filter. b. Check for pinched or clogged fuel hose from fuel tank to fuel
pump. c. Check for defective pressure regulator. d. Check for leak in fuel line. e. Check for pinched,
broken or disconnected regulator vacuum hose.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air/Fuel Mixture > System
Information > Specifications
Note: Idle mixture cannot be adjusted on fuel injected engines. On carbureted engines, idle mixture
adjustment should only be performed after diagnosis has revealed no other faults, or if carburetor
has been overhauled. A propane enrichment tool is necessary to accurately adjust idle mixture.
See Adjustment section for procedure.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air/Fuel Mixture > System
Information > Specifications > Page 498
Idle mixture cannot be adjusted on fuel injected engines. On carbureted engines, idle mixture
adjustment should only be performed after diagnosis has revealed no other faults, or if carburetor
has been overhauled. A propane enrichment tool is necessary to accurately adjust idle mixture.
1. Adjust idle speed to specifications as outlined under ``Curb Idle Speed, Adjust,'' and leave
vehicle prepared as outlined in adjustment procedure.
2. Perform the following to prepare vehicle for propane enrichment idle speed check:
a. On 1985-86 Prelude with automatic transaxle, remove frequency solenoid valve A and air control
valve A, then disconnect vacuum lines and
b. On 1986 Accord with automatic transaxle, disconnect and plug inside hose to idle boost throttle
controller, disconnect hose from frequency
solenoid valve A and connect hose to air control valve A as shown in Fig. 9.
c. On 1987 Prelude, disconnect electrical connector from frequency solenoid valve A and connect
battery to valve terminals as shown in Fig.
10.
d. On 1988 Prelude, disconnect 2 pin connector from electronic air control valve and disconnect
hose from vacuum hose manifold, then cap
hose end. Disconnect vacuum hose from A/C idle boost throttle controller.
3. Disconnect air cleaner intake tube from air duct on radiator, if necessary, then insert tube of
propane kit into intake tube approximately 4 inches. Check propane bottle for adequate supply of
gas.
4. Press button on top of propane device with engine idling, then slowly open propane control valve
to obtain maximum speed. Open propane control valve slowly, a sudden burst of propane may stall
the engine. If engine speed does not increase as specified in chart, Fig. 11, proceed to step 5. If
engine speed increases as specified in chart, Fig. 11, proceed to step 8.
5. Remove concealment plug from carburetor, refer to ``Carburetor Section.'' Recheck maximum
propane enriched RPM. If speed is too low, turn mixture screw 1/4 turn clockwise and recheck. If
speed is too high, turn mixture screw 1/4 turn counterclockwise and recheck.
6. Except on 1988 Prelude, close propane control valve and run engine at 2500 RPM for 10
seconds, and on 1986 Accord with automatic transmission reconnect all vacuum hoses, then
recheck idle speed. If idle speed is correct, proceed to step 8. If idle speed is not correct, proceed
to step 7.
7. On 1988 Prelude, reconnect connector and hose and close propane control valve, then remove
EFI/ECU fuse for 10 seconds to reset control unit and recheck idle speed. If idle speed is correct,
proceed to step 9. If idle speed is not correct, proceed to step 8.
8. Recheck idle speed and adjust by turning idle stop screw, then repeat propane adjustment
procedure.
9. Remove propane kit, then return all components to original position and reconnect necessary
wiring and hoses.
10. On 1988 Prelude equipped with A/C, check idle speed with A/C on. If idle speed is not 700-800
RPM, adjust by turning adjusting screw.
1985-87 ALL:
Disconnect and plug vacuum hose at idle controller. Set speed to specified value. Turn AC on and
verify the speed-up speed is at specification. Check fast idle with engine cold.
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove CLOCK fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
ACCORD: 1990
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove BACK-UP fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove HAZARD fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove CLOCK fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System Information >
Adjustments > Equipment Hookup & Adjustment Procedures > Page 508
On fuel injected engines, fast idle speed is controlled by the fast idle valve and no adjustment is
provided. Adjust fast idle speed on carbureted engines using the following procedures.
1. Start engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature, then stop engine and connect
suitable tachometer.
2. Remove E-clip and flat washer from thermowax linkage, then slide out linkage until its tab is
clear of the fast idle cam, Fig. 4. Use care not to bend linkage or fast idle speed will be changed.
3. Hold throttle open and turn fast idle cam counterclockwise until fast idle lever is aligned as
shown in Fig. 5.
4. Start engine without opening the throttle, then check idle speed.
5. If fast idle speed is not within specifications, adjust by turning fast idle screw, Fig. 6.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System Information >
Adjustments > Equipment Hookup & Adjustment Procedures > Page 511
1. Start engine and warm to normal operating temperature, then turn engine off.
2. Disconnect both coolant hoses from thermowax valve and cap end of hoses.
5. Adjust idle speed, if necessary, by turning fast idle adjusting screw, Fig. 7.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
2. Loosen the 6 mm service bolt on top of the fuel filter one complete turn, while holding the special
banjo bolt using a suitable wrench. Place a suitable towel over the 6 mm bolt before relieving fuel
pressure.
3. Replace washer between service bolt and banjo bolt whenever service bolt is loosened.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order > Component
Information > Specifications
Firing Order: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > Number One
Cylinder > Component Information > Locations
Firing Order: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > Timing Marks
and Indicators > System Information > Locations
1. Inspect distributor cap for cracks or damaged terminals and carbon tracking. Replace as
needed.
2. Inspect rotor for cracks or roughened surfaces. Scrape off carbon deposits and smooth rotor
terminal with an oil stone or sand paper. Replace rotor if insulator contacts are burned.
3. Check ignition wires for corrosion, cracks or burned insulation, then measure ignition wire
resistance using an ohmmeter. Replace wires if they are damaged or if resistance exceeds 25,000
ohms.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition > Vacuum
Advance Diaphragm <--> [Distributor Advance Unit] > Component Information > Specifications
1986-87 CIVIC & CRX, 1986-88 ACCORD & 1988 PRELUDE W/CARBURETED ENGINE
2. Apply vacuum greater than 20 inches Hg to diaphragm top port and ensure stator turns
counterclockwise and stays. If stator does not turn or stay, replace diaphragm.
3. Release vacuum and ensure stator returns. If stator does not return, replace diaphragm.
1. Inspect distributor cap for cracks or damaged terminals and carbon tracking. Replace as
needed.
2. Inspect rotor for cracks or roughened surfaces. Scrape off carbon deposits and smooth rotor
terminal with an oil stone or sand paper. Replace rotor if insulator contacts are burned.
3. Check ignition wires for corrosion, cracks or burned insulation, then measure ignition wire
resistance using an ohmmeter. Replace wires if they are damaged or if resistance exceeds 25,000
ohms.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Gap
ILLUSTRATED INDEX
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Specifications > Page 552
CAUTION: Always adjust timing belt tension with the engine cold.
NOTE: Tensioner is spring loaded to apply proper tension to the belt automatically.
1. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC. 2. Loosen, but do not remove, the adjust bolt. 3. Rotate crankshaft
counterclockwise 3 teeth on camshaft pulley to create tension on timing belt. 4. Tighten adjust bolt,
torque to:
NOTE: Put transmission in gear and set parking brake before retorquing pulley bolt.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Specifications > Page 554
Timing Belt: Service and Repair
1. Remove the engine support bolts and nuts, then remove the side mount rubber and side mount
bracket.
3. Remove the power steering pump adjust pulley nut and the adjust bolt, then remove the adjust
pulley, P/S pump and the belt. 4. Remove the alternator through bolt, mount bolt and the adjust nut,
then remove the alternator and the belt.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Specifications > Page 555
NOTE: On cars with air conditioning (A/C): Remove the A/C compressor mount bolts, then remove
the A/C compressor and the belt.
5. Remove the valve cover. 6. Remove the special bolt, then remove crankshaft pulley. 7. Remove
the timing belt upper cover and the lower cover. 8. Loosen the adjust bolt, then remove the timing
belt.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Belt > Component Information > Specifications > Page 556
9. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: -
Install the timing belt with the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke.
- To set the crankshaft to TDC, install the timing belt guide plates, timing belt drive pulley,
crankshaft pulley, and crankshaft pulley bolt.
10. Carry out timing belt tension adjustment. 11. After installation. adjust the tension of each belt.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools -
Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
Tensioning the engine belts properly with the belt tension gauge (T/N 07JGG-001010A) is critical to
bearing life of the A/C compressor, alternator, etc. Calibration of the belt tension gauge should be
checked regularly.
CALIBRATION
A Belt Tension Gauge Checker, needed for checking the calibration of the belt tension gauge, is
now available. One checker is being automatically shipped to each dealership. Additional checkers
may be ordered through normal parts ordering channels. The part number is 07TGG-001010A.
Procedure
1. Push the handle and slide the checker into the gauge. Position the checker as shown.
2. Release the handle and read the tension value on the Kg scale.
3. Compare your reading to the value etched on the checker. Your gauge is in calibration if it is
within +/- 3 kg of the checker value.
If your belt tension gauge is out of calibration, you cannot recalibrate it yourself. Contact America
Kowa Seiki about sending it for recalibration.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools -
Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair > Page 561
If your belt tension gauge is damaged, replacement parts are available from America Kowa Seiki.
They are:
(800) 824-9655
^ Pack the belt tension gauge in a suitable box. Use "bubble pack" to protect the gauge.
America Kowa Seiki will charge a fixed fee to inspect, clean and calibrate the belt tension gauge,
and return it via UPS ground. Any repair parts needed are extra. The gauge will be returned within
15 days.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 562
2. Loosen the 6 mm service bolt on top of the fuel filter one complete turn, while holding the special
banjo bolt using a suitable wrench. Place a suitable towel over the 6 mm bolt before relieving fuel
pressure.
3. Replace washer between service bolt and banjo bolt whenever service bolt is loosened.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement
1988 Prelude Power Steering Supply Hose (Supersedes 88-014, dated APR 20, '88)
PROBLEM
When subjected to prolonged vibration and high underhood temperatures, the power steering
supply hose, at the connector clamp seal, could develop a small fluid leak. If the fluid contacts the
hot exhaust manifold cover, it may cause smoke and there is a very remote possibility of fire if the
fluid contacts the exhaust manifold itself.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
1988 Prelude Si through BA4 . . . 066463 1988 Prelude S through BA4 . . . 066252
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Check for a recall completion mark above the sixth digit of the VIN on the firewall. ^
^ If there is no recall completion mark, proceed to the removal and replacement instructions.
SI Model
2. Open the hood and remove the negative battery terminal lead. (Use fender covers.)
3. Remove the front air intake hose, the air intake tube, the front branch tube, the rear branch tube,
and the air flow tube.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement
> Page 577
4. Remove the brake booster vacuum line from the left side of the intake manifold.
5. Disconnect the air intake temperature sensor connector (located on the left side of the intake
manifold.
6. Disconnect the P/S pressure switch connector (on the brake booster side) and the harness
clamp (located half way down the harness).
7. Disconnect the fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator
9. Remove the clutch reservoir mounting bolts and lay the reservoir against the intake manifold.
(Manual transmission models only.) Remove the resistor harness clip from the clutch reservoir
bracket.
10. Remove the resonator chamber connecting tube and the left and right resonator chamber
flange bolts. (The rear resonator chamber attachment bolt will be removed from under the car in
step 14.)
11. Remove the P/S supply hose bracket bolt (next to the left side resonator chamber attachment
bolt).
12. Place a clean protective cloth over the alternator, then remove the two bolts at the joint of the
P/S pump and the P/S supply hose. Separate the supply hose from the pump.
13. Remove the P/S supply hose bracket bolts from the cylinder block (8 mm) and thermostat
housing (6 mm).
14. Raise the vehicle and remove the rear resonator chamber attachment bolt, then move the
chamber up and to the right side of the engine compartment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement
> Page 578
15. Remove the valve body splash shield.
16. Place a drain pan under the valve body, then, remove the P/S supply hose and sensor hose
from the valve body. Straighten out the bends slightly on the lower supply hose to facilitate easier
removal.
17. Lower the vehicle while allowing the P/S supply hose to drain.
18. With a hacksaw or utility knife, cut through the rubber portion of the P/S supply hose, then
separate the two halves of the hose.
19. Remove the two halves of the supply hose from the engine compartment. Remove the bracket
and the pressure switch from the pipe.
20. Install a new O-ring on the pressure switch, then install the pressure switch on the new P/S
supply hose and torque to 8.6 ft.lb. (1.2 kg-m).
21. Install the P/S supply hose stay bracket on the new supply hose.
1. Hold the P/S supply hose with the pressure switch down and the hose positioned as shown.
2. Place the hose into the engine compartment moving the pressure switch closer to the right side
before reaching the rear beam.
CAUTION: Be very careful during this portion of the procedure. Do not apply any force to the
pressure switch wires while maneuvering toward
5. Temporarily fit the flare nut, on the P/S hose, to the valve body.
NOTE: Start the flare nut by hand while flexing the supply hose slightly to ease installation. Keep
foreign matter from entering the hose.
7. Reinstall the P/S supply hose holder (bolt/ washer 6 x 16 mm) on the rear beam taking care that
the supply hose is routed under the resonator chamber.
8. Reconnect the connecting tube to the resonator chamber and fasten the chamber to the rear
beam. (Left and right side attachment bolts only. Rear attachment bolt will be installed in Step 22.)
9. Route the P/S supply hose under the emissions hoses, coil wire, tachometer supply wire, etc.
10. Place a drain pan under the engine in the appropriate location. Disconnect the heater inlet
hose, route the P/S supply hose under it, then reconnect the heater inlet hose.
11. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, route the supply hose under it, reconnect it, and reposition
the clamp.
12. Attach the P/S supply hose to the P/S pump with 6 x 22 mm flange nuts. Tighten to 7.9 ft.lb.
(1.1 kg-m).
Be careful not to damage the O-ring. Bolts should be hand-tightened before being fully tightened.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement
> Page 580
13. Install the P/S supply hose bracket A to the cylinder block. Fit the clamp around the supply
hose and then install it onto the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing up).
Install bracket B to the thermostat housing. Fit the clamp around the supply hose and then install it
on to the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing down).
14. Reinstall the injector resistor and ground strap. Reinstall the clutch reservoir (M/T only).
15. Reinstall the fuel return hose to the fuel pressure regulator.
16. Reconnect the P/S pressure switch connector and attach the harness bracket to the brake
booster vacuum hose.
19. Reconnect the air flow tube and the rear branch tube (make sure the rear branch tube tab is
inserted into the air flow tube slot.)
20. Reconnect the air intake hose, front branch hose, and front intake tube.
NOTE: Make sure the tubes are firmly connected and their bands are properly secured.
21. Raise the lift and tighten the P/S supply hose to 27.5 ft.lb. (3.8 kg-m) and the sensor pipe to 9.3
ft.lb. (1.3 kg-m).
22. Install and tighten the resonator chamber rear attachment bolt.
Loosen the cooling system air bleeder, squeeze the upper hose gently to remove any air, and
tighten the bleeder when coolant comes out in a steady stream.
27. Start the engine and let it run for two seconds.
CAUTION: Running the P/S pump for more than 2 seconds could cause it to seize due to lack of
P/S fluid.
28. Top up the reservoir with P/S fluid and restart the engine.
NOTE: Turn the steering wheel from side to side a few times, then top up with P/S fluid.
29. Raise the vehicle.
30. Check the P/S valve body and pipe joints for leaks.
32. Lower the lift and clean the engine compartment to remove any P/S fluid and radiator coolant
stains.
33. Center punch a recall completion mark above the sixth digit of the VIN on the firewall.
S Model
5. Remove the air intake sensor connector (located on the back of the air cleaner).
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement
> Page 582
6. Remove the air cleaner case.
7. Disconnect the drain tube from the charcoal canister, then remove the canister from its bracket
(the canister slides upward off the bracket.)
8. Remove the P/S supply hose from its clamps on the rear beam.
9. Place a clean protective cloth over the alternator, remove the two bolts at the joint of the P/S
pump and the P/S supply hose, then separate the P/S supply hose from the pump.
10. Remove the P/S supply hose bracket bolts on the cylinder block (8 mm) and the thermostat
housing (6 mm).
12. Disconnect the water temperature sender, remove the high tension wire clamp, and the
transmission throttle cable from its holder.
13. Raise the vehicle and remove the valve body splash shield.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement
> Page 583
14. Place a drain pan under the valve body, then remove the P/S supply hose and sensor pipe
from the valve body. Allow the lines to drain.
15. Remove the stabilizer bar bushing bolts.
16. Remove the three self-locking nuts which connect exhaust pipes A and B.
17. Unfasten the clamps for the P/S sensor and return pipes located on the back of the rear beam.
18. Loosen, but do not remove, the return pipe and disconnect the pipe from its hose section.
21. With a hacksaw or utility knife, cut through the rubber portion of the P/S supply hose, then
separate the two halves of the hose.
23. Remove the 6 mm clip holding the return line (located on the right side of the rear beam).
24. Raise the vehicle and remove the bottom half of the P/S supply hose.
3. Continue to pull the supply hose down and to the left side of the vehicle.
4. Lower the stablizer bar and exhaust pipe A, then position the supply hose on the upper side of
the rear beam.
5. Loosely connect the supply hose flare nut to the valve body.
7. Install the return pipe and sensor pipe in the clamps located on the back of the rear beam.
8. Reconnect the return pipe to its hose section and install the clamp.
9. Reconnect exhaust pipes A and B. Torque to 24.5 ft.lb. (3.4 kg-m). (Use new self-locking nuts
and gasket.)
11. Reinstall the front stabilizer bar. Torque to 15.8 ft.lb. (2.2 kg-m) (Bolt/washer 8 x 16 mm).
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement
> Page 585
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, pass the P/S supply hose below the radiator hose, then
reconnect the radiator hose and band.
Be careful not to damage the O-ring. Bolts should be hand-snugged before being fully tightened.
15. Install the P/S supply hose bracket A to the cylinder block. Fit the clamp around the supply
hose and then install it onto the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing up).
Install bracket B to the thermostat housing. Fit the clamp around the supply hose and then install it
onto the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing toward the front of the engine compartment).
18. Attach the harness to the P/S supply hose near the thermostat housing bracket.
19. Install and fasten the P/S supply hose bracket on the right and left sides of the rear beam.
20. Attach the return line to the right side of the rear beam with a new 6 mm clip.
23. Reconnect the air intake control diaphragm tube and the air intake sensor connector.
26. Attach the high tension wire and vacuum tube to the air intake tube.
28. Tighten the P/S supply hose to 27.5 ft.lb. (3.8 kg-m), the sensor pipe to 9.3 ft.lb. (1.3 kg-m), and
return pipe to 9.3 ft.lb. (1.3 kg-m) at the valve body.
29. Clean the valve body and spray with leak check powder.
Loosen the cooling system air bleeder and squeeze the upper hose gently to remove any air. Then
tighten the bleeder when the coolant comes out in a steady stream.
34. Start the engine and let it run for two seconds.
CAUTION: Running the P/S pump for more than 2 seconds could cause it to seize due to lack of
P/S fluid.
35. Top up the P/S reservoir with P/S fluid and restart engine.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement
> Page 587
NOTE: Turn the steering wheel from side to side a few times, then top up with P/S fluid.
37. Check the P/S valve body and pipe joints for leaks.
39. Lower the lift and clean the engine compartment to remove any P/S fluid and radiator coolant
stains.
40. Center punch a recall completion mark above the sixth digit of the VIN on the firewall.
PARTS INFORMATION
Power Steering Hose Kit (Si model): H/C 2955029 P/N 06537-SF1-A70
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of affected vehicles will be notified of this campaign by mail. Owners will be asked to
contact their nearest Honda dealer for replacement of the power steering supply hose.
Text of the Customer Letter WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Flat rate time: 2.0 hrs (S model); 2.3 hrs (Si model)
Failed part: NPS# 53713-SF1-A51 (S model); NPS# 53713-SF1-A71 (Si model) H/C 2634111 (S
model);
IF THE FLUID CONTACTS THE HOT EXHAUST MANIFOLD, IT MAY CAUSE SMOKE AND
POSSIBLY AN UNDERHOOD FIRE.
Vehicles
1988 Prelude Power Steering Supply Hose (Supersedes 88-014, dated APR 20, '88)
PROBLEM
When subjected to prolonged vibration and high underhood temperatures, the power steering
supply hose, at the connector clamp seal, could develop a small fluid leak. If the fluid contacts the
hot exhaust manifold cover, it may cause smoke and there is a very remote possibility of fire if the
fluid contacts the exhaust manifold itself.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
1988 Prelude Si through BA4 . . . 066463 1988 Prelude S through BA4 . . . 066252
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Check for a recall completion mark above the sixth digit of the VIN on the firewall. ^
^ If there is no recall completion mark, proceed to the removal and replacement instructions.
SI Model
2. Open the hood and remove the negative battery terminal lead. (Use fender covers.)
3. Remove the front air intake hose, the air intake tube, the front branch tube, the rear branch tube,
and the air flow tube.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power
Steering Hose Replacement > Page 598
4. Remove the brake booster vacuum line from the left side of the intake manifold.
5. Disconnect the air intake temperature sensor connector (located on the left side of the intake
manifold.
6. Disconnect the P/S pressure switch connector (on the brake booster side) and the harness
clamp (located half way down the harness).
7. Disconnect the fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator
9. Remove the clutch reservoir mounting bolts and lay the reservoir against the intake manifold.
(Manual transmission models only.) Remove the resistor harness clip from the clutch reservoir
bracket.
10. Remove the resonator chamber connecting tube and the left and right resonator chamber
flange bolts. (The rear resonator chamber attachment bolt will be removed from under the car in
step 14.)
11. Remove the P/S supply hose bracket bolt (next to the left side resonator chamber attachment
bolt).
12. Place a clean protective cloth over the alternator, then remove the two bolts at the joint of the
P/S pump and the P/S supply hose. Separate the supply hose from the pump.
13. Remove the P/S supply hose bracket bolts from the cylinder block (8 mm) and thermostat
housing (6 mm).
14. Raise the vehicle and remove the rear resonator chamber attachment bolt, then move the
chamber up and to the right side of the engine compartment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power
Steering Hose Replacement > Page 599
15. Remove the valve body splash shield.
16. Place a drain pan under the valve body, then, remove the P/S supply hose and sensor hose
from the valve body. Straighten out the bends slightly on the lower supply hose to facilitate easier
removal.
17. Lower the vehicle while allowing the P/S supply hose to drain.
18. With a hacksaw or utility knife, cut through the rubber portion of the P/S supply hose, then
separate the two halves of the hose.
19. Remove the two halves of the supply hose from the engine compartment. Remove the bracket
and the pressure switch from the pipe.
20. Install a new O-ring on the pressure switch, then install the pressure switch on the new P/S
supply hose and torque to 8.6 ft.lb. (1.2 kg-m).
21. Install the P/S supply hose stay bracket on the new supply hose.
1. Hold the P/S supply hose with the pressure switch down and the hose positioned as shown.
2. Place the hose into the engine compartment moving the pressure switch closer to the right side
before reaching the rear beam.
CAUTION: Be very careful during this portion of the procedure. Do not apply any force to the
pressure switch wires while maneuvering toward
5. Temporarily fit the flare nut, on the P/S hose, to the valve body.
NOTE: Start the flare nut by hand while flexing the supply hose slightly to ease installation. Keep
foreign matter from entering the hose.
7. Reinstall the P/S supply hose holder (bolt/ washer 6 x 16 mm) on the rear beam taking care that
the supply hose is routed under the resonator chamber.
8. Reconnect the connecting tube to the resonator chamber and fasten the chamber to the rear
beam. (Left and right side attachment bolts only. Rear attachment bolt will be installed in Step 22.)
9. Route the P/S supply hose under the emissions hoses, coil wire, tachometer supply wire, etc.
10. Place a drain pan under the engine in the appropriate location. Disconnect the heater inlet
hose, route the P/S supply hose under it, then reconnect the heater inlet hose.
11. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, route the supply hose under it, reconnect it, and reposition
the clamp.
12. Attach the P/S supply hose to the P/S pump with 6 x 22 mm flange nuts. Tighten to 7.9 ft.lb.
(1.1 kg-m).
Be careful not to damage the O-ring. Bolts should be hand-tightened before being fully tightened.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power
Steering Hose Replacement > Page 601
13. Install the P/S supply hose bracket A to the cylinder block. Fit the clamp around the supply
hose and then install it onto the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing up).
Install bracket B to the thermostat housing. Fit the clamp around the supply hose and then install it
on to the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing down).
14. Reinstall the injector resistor and ground strap. Reinstall the clutch reservoir (M/T only).
15. Reinstall the fuel return hose to the fuel pressure regulator.
16. Reconnect the P/S pressure switch connector and attach the harness bracket to the brake
booster vacuum hose.
19. Reconnect the air flow tube and the rear branch tube (make sure the rear branch tube tab is
inserted into the air flow tube slot.)
20. Reconnect the air intake hose, front branch hose, and front intake tube.
NOTE: Make sure the tubes are firmly connected and their bands are properly secured.
21. Raise the lift and tighten the P/S supply hose to 27.5 ft.lb. (3.8 kg-m) and the sensor pipe to 9.3
ft.lb. (1.3 kg-m).
22. Install and tighten the resonator chamber rear attachment bolt.
Loosen the cooling system air bleeder, squeeze the upper hose gently to remove any air, and
tighten the bleeder when coolant comes out in a steady stream.
27. Start the engine and let it run for two seconds.
CAUTION: Running the P/S pump for more than 2 seconds could cause it to seize due to lack of
P/S fluid.
28. Top up the reservoir with P/S fluid and restart the engine.
NOTE: Turn the steering wheel from side to side a few times, then top up with P/S fluid.
29. Raise the vehicle.
30. Check the P/S valve body and pipe joints for leaks.
32. Lower the lift and clean the engine compartment to remove any P/S fluid and radiator coolant
stains.
33. Center punch a recall completion mark above the sixth digit of the VIN on the firewall.
S Model
5. Remove the air intake sensor connector (located on the back of the air cleaner).
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power
Steering Hose Replacement > Page 603
6. Remove the air cleaner case.
7. Disconnect the drain tube from the charcoal canister, then remove the canister from its bracket
(the canister slides upward off the bracket.)
8. Remove the P/S supply hose from its clamps on the rear beam.
9. Place a clean protective cloth over the alternator, remove the two bolts at the joint of the P/S
pump and the P/S supply hose, then separate the P/S supply hose from the pump.
10. Remove the P/S supply hose bracket bolts on the cylinder block (8 mm) and the thermostat
housing (6 mm).
12. Disconnect the water temperature sender, remove the high tension wire clamp, and the
transmission throttle cable from its holder.
13. Raise the vehicle and remove the valve body splash shield.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power
Steering Hose Replacement > Page 604
14. Place a drain pan under the valve body, then remove the P/S supply hose and sensor pipe
from the valve body. Allow the lines to drain.
15. Remove the stabilizer bar bushing bolts.
16. Remove the three self-locking nuts which connect exhaust pipes A and B.
17. Unfasten the clamps for the P/S sensor and return pipes located on the back of the rear beam.
18. Loosen, but do not remove, the return pipe and disconnect the pipe from its hose section.
21. With a hacksaw or utility knife, cut through the rubber portion of the P/S supply hose, then
separate the two halves of the hose.
23. Remove the 6 mm clip holding the return line (located on the right side of the rear beam).
24. Raise the vehicle and remove the bottom half of the P/S supply hose.
3. Continue to pull the supply hose down and to the left side of the vehicle.
4. Lower the stablizer bar and exhaust pipe A, then position the supply hose on the upper side of
the rear beam.
5. Loosely connect the supply hose flare nut to the valve body.
7. Install the return pipe and sensor pipe in the clamps located on the back of the rear beam.
8. Reconnect the return pipe to its hose section and install the clamp.
9. Reconnect exhaust pipes A and B. Torque to 24.5 ft.lb. (3.4 kg-m). (Use new self-locking nuts
and gasket.)
11. Reinstall the front stabilizer bar. Torque to 15.8 ft.lb. (2.2 kg-m) (Bolt/washer 8 x 16 mm).
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power
Steering Hose Replacement > Page 606
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, pass the P/S supply hose below the radiator hose, then
reconnect the radiator hose and band.
Be careful not to damage the O-ring. Bolts should be hand-snugged before being fully tightened.
15. Install the P/S supply hose bracket A to the cylinder block. Fit the clamp around the supply
hose and then install it onto the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing up).
Install bracket B to the thermostat housing. Fit the clamp around the supply hose and then install it
onto the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing toward the front of the engine compartment).
18. Attach the harness to the P/S supply hose near the thermostat housing bracket.
19. Install and fasten the P/S supply hose bracket on the right and left sides of the rear beam.
20. Attach the return line to the right side of the rear beam with a new 6 mm clip.
23. Reconnect the air intake control diaphragm tube and the air intake sensor connector.
26. Attach the high tension wire and vacuum tube to the air intake tube.
28. Tighten the P/S supply hose to 27.5 ft.lb. (3.8 kg-m), the sensor pipe to 9.3 ft.lb. (1.3 kg-m), and
return pipe to 9.3 ft.lb. (1.3 kg-m) at the valve body.
29. Clean the valve body and spray with leak check powder.
Loosen the cooling system air bleeder and squeeze the upper hose gently to remove any air. Then
tighten the bleeder when the coolant comes out in a steady stream.
34. Start the engine and let it run for two seconds.
CAUTION: Running the P/S pump for more than 2 seconds could cause it to seize due to lack of
P/S fluid.
35. Top up the P/S reservoir with P/S fluid and restart engine.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Power Steering Line/Hose > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power
Steering Hose Replacement > Page 608
NOTE: Turn the steering wheel from side to side a few times, then top up with P/S fluid.
37. Check the P/S valve body and pipe joints for leaks.
39. Lower the lift and clean the engine compartment to remove any P/S fluid and radiator coolant
stains.
40. Center punch a recall completion mark above the sixth digit of the VIN on the firewall.
PARTS INFORMATION
Power Steering Hose Kit (Si model): H/C 2955029 P/N 06537-SF1-A70
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of affected vehicles will be notified of this campaign by mail. Owners will be asked to
contact their nearest Honda dealer for replacement of the power steering supply hose.
Text of the Customer Letter WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Flat rate time: 2.0 hrs (S model); 2.3 hrs (Si model)
Failed part: NPS# 53713-SF1-A51 (S model); NPS# 53713-SF1-A71 (Si model) H/C 2634111 (S
model);
IF THE FLUID CONTACTS THE HOT EXHAUST MANIFOLD, IT MAY CAUSE SMOKE AND
POSSIBLY AN UNDERHOOD FIRE.
HONDA
AT 7.0 7.5
Si 5.5 6.0
AT 6.0 6.5
HF 5.0 5.5
AT 7.5 8.0
HF 4.5 5.0
AT 7.0 7.5
Si 7.0 7.5
AT 6.5 7.0
AT 7.5 8.0
Concentration Minimum 50 %
Maximum 60 %
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Specifications
Fluid - A/T: Specifications
TYPE ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. AF
1991 .....................................................................................................................................................
................... 3.2 liters 3.4 quarts
Civic At Assembly:................................................................................................................................
..................................5.4 L (5.7 qt U.S. 4.8 Imp qt)
Accord:
1986-89 ...............................................................................................................................................
................................ 3.0 liters 3.2 quarts 1990-91 ...............................................................................
................................................................................................ 2.4 liters 2.5 quarts
TYPE ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. SG
* Preferred.
4-speed ................................................................................................................................................
.................................. 2.3 liters 4.8 pints 5-speed:
1988-91:
TYPE ...................................................................................................................................................
......................................................................... GL-5
1986-87 ...............................................................................................................................................
........................................ 1.0 liters 2.2 pints 1988-91 .........................................................................
.............................................................................................................. 0.6 liters 1.2 pints
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Engine - Oil Consumption Test
Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Oil Consumption Test
Model
ALL Applicable To
82-003
Issue Date MAY 20, '88 Oil Consumption Test (Supersedes 82-003, dated March, 1982)
PROBLEM
Oil consumption of more than 1 quart in 1000 miles within the New Car Limited Warranty.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Track the oil consumption for twice the alleged mileage per quart.
^ Change the oil and filter. Use an SF grade detergent oil in a viscosity suitable for the outside
temperatures in your area.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Engine - Oil Consumption Test > Page 633
TEXT OF OWNER'S COPY OF OIL CONSUMPTION TEST
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Engine - Oil Consumption Test > Page 634
^ Tell owners they must have the oil checked each time they get gas. If the oil level is a quart or
more low, they must add the right kind of oil, then record how much and at what mileage and the
date on their copy of the test form. Or they can return to the dealership and have you add and
record the oil for them.
2. After tracking the oil consumption, complete your copy of the test form. If consumption exceeded
1 quart in 1000 miles, test and repair the engine as outlined on your copy of the test form. Attach
your completed copy to the hard copy of the repair order.
WARRANTY
Normal 24-month/24,000-mile power train warranty applies. An Oil Consumption Test (see inside)
must be completed on the car before you begin any necessary repairs. We will pay for test-related
oil and filter changes if subsequent repairs are made under warranty. Any deviation from the test
and repair procedure listed on your copy of the form will require prior DSM authorization.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil
New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for
additional information.
Viscosity ..............................................................................................................................................
......................................................................... 5W30
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Power Steering Fluid > Component Information > Specifications
Power Steering Fluid: Specifications
07-030
(Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks)
The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new
required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller
leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find.
When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service
Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up
with the OPTIMAX Jr.
This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector.
^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3
standard AA batteries)
^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels
ORDERING INFO
*One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required
special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and
Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program,
Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.*
NOTICE
^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor
This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange
high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body.
^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are
approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the
system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure.
^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure.
^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has
been added to the system.
^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this:
- Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap.
- Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the
lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve
stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system.
NOTE:
Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first
time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been
evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following:
(a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting.
(b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule.
(c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's
hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set.
(d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the
universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes.
(e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and
disconnect the NC recovery and charging station.
(f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for
future use.
NOTE:
^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the
A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil.
^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before
adding any dye.
(g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and
charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye.
* NOTE:
Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.*
(h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye
to enter the system.
(i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating
pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control
valve on the set.
(j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule
from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage
case.
* NOTE:
Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the
hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.*
(k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge
label.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 646
3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule:
(a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed.
(b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port
using the quick coupler.
(c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap,
and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting.
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the
capsule.
(d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and
carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight).
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out.
NOTE:
* ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low
charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the
universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.*
^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the
dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding.
^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a
full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being
added to the vehicle's A/C system.
(a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks
will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours
of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible
during this time to keep the dye circulating.
(b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and
fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 647
Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak.
NOTE:
Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to
inspect for leaks.
^ fittings
^ hose-to-line couplings
^ refrigerant controls
^ service ports
(d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and
glasses.
(e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from
the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle).
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 648
Here are some simple safety items to remember when you're storing recycled R-12 refrigerant: ^
Never try to refill a standard disposable 30 lb. tank with reclaimed refrigerant. Use only DOT
approved refillable tanks provided by the recycling equipment manufacturers or suppliers.
^ Keep your tanks clearly marked: one for contaminated refrigerant, one for recycled. (most
recovery/recycling equipment manufacturers supply labels for this purpose.)
^ If you need to transfer liquid refrigerant from one tank to another, keep in mind that refrigerant
expands when it gets warm. So, never fill a tank to more than 80% capacity. The remaining 20%
allows for expansion. (A tank filled bewond 80% call he dangerous! See the temperature chart and
review the tank manufacturer's "transfer" instructions.)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 649
Here's the second in a series of articles on how R-12's impact on the environment is affecting the
way we service A/C systems. (The first article, "Chilling Facts About R-12 Refrigerant," can be
found in the November '89 issue of S/N.)
The table (compiled by the Automobile Importers of America, Inc.) shows the CFC legislation that
has already been enacted by those states. There are also 14 other states that have proposed
similar legislation. The federal government has not committed to any specific regulations, although
they'll probably require the use of UL-listed recovery/recycling equipment only. The EPA is also
talking of requiring technicians to be recertified as proficient with the new A/C equipment.
All this legislation makes two things very clear: most states will require the use of
recovery/recycling equipment by the end of this year and, in the future, you'll probably need a
whole set of new equipment to service cars with the HFC-134a. (R-12 and HFC-134a can't be
intermixed at all, so as far as we know now, HFC-134a will require new charging stations,
recovery/recycling units, leak detectors, etc.)
Although these units will become required shop equipment, American Honda won't ship them
automatically. However, to assist you in meeting this new equipment need, our Special Tools
people are working out the details to offer UL-listed recovery/recycling units through the Tools and
Equipment Program. They're trying to put together a package that offers special pricing,
guaranteed availability, and an extended warranty. We'll send you all the info as soon as things are
finalized.
Recovery/recycling units aren't cheap. Their prices range from about $2,800 to $4,000. However,
this equipment will more than pay for itself!
Here are several ways it'll actually save you time and increase your shop's profits:
^ Time savings: Hook the unit up to the car, turn it on, and you're free to perform some other
money-making task. In minutes, recovery is complete, the unit turns off automatically (most of
them), and the car is ready for repair.
^ Refrigerant cost savings: New EPA regulations limit production of R-12. This reduction, plus the
newly enacted refrigerant tax laws, have doubled the cost of R-12 since last year. A quick poll
showed us that the cost of R-12 now averages about $3.50 a pound. A busy shop could easily
recover and recycle 100 pounds a week during A/C season. That's $350 a week saved!
^ Sell more service: Explain to your customers why it's no longer ecologically or economically
prudent to simply recharge an A/C system with a slow leak. (Plus it soon may not be legal in some
states.) If they have the leak fixed, they'll be helping the environment and saving money in the long
run.
In the coming issues we'll keep you up to date on what's happening with R-12 recovering/recycling,
including tips on how to use your new equipment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Page 650
Refrigerant: Specifications
Fig. 4 Specifications
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations
^ If a '90 Accord owner complains of poor power steering assist at low speeds, he may just be
comparing it to other cars he's owned (including other Hondas). To regulate the assist according to
the speed of the car, the '90 Accord P/S system uses a "gain control valve" instead of the old
familiar cut-off valve. The result is better "road feel" than previous models, but also a little less low
speed assist. Compare the car to another like-model with about the same mileage before you
assume there's something wrong.
^ Remember, '90 Civics are shipped with fuse # 12 removed from the dash fuse box. This is the
fuse for the dome light, trunk light, and cigarette lighter circuits, as well as the clock and radio
circuits on cars with these options. Be sure you check the operation of these items during PDI.
^ To avoid breaking the bezel when removing a '90 Accord dash brightness switch, pull on the knob
while you pry the lower edge of the bezel up.
^ If you're working on an '88-90 Prelude whose A/C compressor will only run for a few seconds,
chances are it has a bad pick-up sensor. Check the pick-up sensor's resistance as described in the
S/M. (Remember, you have to discharge the system before you can replace the sensor.)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > Fuse Block Locations
Fuse Block: Locations Fuse Block Locations
The fuse panel is located under the dash to the left of the steering wheel
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > Fuse Block Locations > Page 664
Fuse Block: Locations Main Fuse Box
The main fuse box is installed on the right side of the engine compartment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
If equipped with a service reminder flag, the oil and oil filter service interval reminder flags will
activate after every 7500 miles of operation. To reset indicators, insert ignition key into slots below
indicator flags at lower right corner of instrument cluster. Push key in until reminder window
changes from Red to Green.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 669
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Service and Repair
If equipped with a service reminder flag, the oil and oil filter service interval reminder flags will
activate after every 7500 miles of operation. To reset indicators, insert ignition key into slots below
indicator flags at lower right corner of instrument cluster. Push key in until reminder window
changes from Red to Green.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Check Engine/PGM-FI Warning Lamp <-->
[Malfunction Indicator Lamp] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Check Engine/PGM-FI Warning Lamp: Testing and Inspection
The Check Engine/PGM-FI warning lamp should be illuminated for approximately 2 seconds after
the ignition switch is placed in the ON position as a bulb check. After approximately 2 seconds, the
lamp should go OFF. If lamp remains ON, a problem in the Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI)
System is indicated and a code is stored in the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) memory. After
diagnosis and repair, the PGM-FI ECU memory can be cleared by disconnecting the battery
ground cable for approximately 10 seconds.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
The steering wheel oscillates, or shimmies, when driving between 58 and 62 mph. It may be most
noticeable on smooth roads, and may vary with slight steering inputs.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dynamically balance the wheel and tire assembly off the car. Then, if necessary, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to balance the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly on the car.
1. Drive the car on a smooth surface between 58 and 62 mph. Turn the steering wheel slightly, and
allow the steering to self-center. Repeat this several times and observe the steering wheel motion.
If the steering wheel does not oscillate, or the movement is different than shown below, the car
does not have an imbalance problem. Do not continue with this procedure.
NOTE:
To verify the balancer's accuracy and calibration, refer to the DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL
BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK.
3. Reinstall the balanced wheel/tire assemblies and torque the wheel nuts to 80 lb.ft. Do not use an
impact wrench to snug up or torque the wheel nuts; it may damage or distort the wheel and cause
steering wheel oscillation.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy > Page 682
4. Road test the car and check for steering wheel oscillation. If it still oscillates, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to do a finish balance on the front wheel/tire/hub/disc assemblies.
NOTE:
Refer to section 4 of the Hofmann DAFB-10 Finish Wheel Balancer Operator's Manual that came
with the unit for detailed instructions.
Use this procedure to determine if the balancer is accurate to within 5 grams of imbalance. If the
balancer is not accurate to within 5 grams, it must be calibrated or repaired before being used to
correct a steering wheel oscillation problem. You will need a Honda factory or accessory alloy
wheel only, with no tire mounted, to perform this procedure.
1. Before starting, make sure the wheel has no balance weights. Perform a static balance, adding
weights as necessary to only one side of the wheel.
2. Loosen the wheel, rotate it 901, tighten the wheel, and recheck the balance. Repeat this three
more times, until the wheel returns to its original position. The balancer should not indicate any
more than 5 grams of additional weight is needed during this procedure. If more than 5 grams is
indicated, calibrate or repair the balancer.
3. Remove the weights just installed. Make sure the balancer is set to its finest balancing mode
(accuracy within 5 grams).
4. Perform a dynamic balance, adding weights as indicated by the balancer to both sides of the
wheel.
5. Once the wheel is in dynamic balance, add an additional 5 grams at any point on the rim and
recheck the balance.
The balancer should indicate that 5 grams is needed on the same side of the wheel at a point
exactly opposite the weight you added. If so, the balancer is in calibration.
If the balancer indicates that more than 10 grams is needed, or the indicated position is more than
1.5 inches from the point exactly opposite the weight you added, then the balancer needs
calibration or repair.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
06-082
This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda
automobiles and light trucks.
To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair
Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster
has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA
website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers.
Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on
the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer
to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ Chemical cement
^ Liquid buffer
^ Rim-bead sealer
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ Tire crayons
^ Awl or probe
^ Low speed buffer with quick release chuck and exhaust hose
^ Tire spreader
^ Inspection lamp
Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection.
Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury.
NOTE:
If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as
recommended by the RMA.
PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if
no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated,
dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to
the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION,
select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
The steering wheel oscillates, or shimmies, when driving between 58 and 62 mph. It may be most
noticeable on smooth roads, and may vary with slight steering inputs.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dynamically balance the wheel and tire assembly off the car. Then, if necessary, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to balance the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly on the car.
1. Drive the car on a smooth surface between 58 and 62 mph. Turn the steering wheel slightly, and
allow the steering to self-center. Repeat this several times and observe the steering wheel motion.
If the steering wheel does not oscillate, or the movement is different than shown below, the car
does not have an imbalance problem. Do not continue with this procedure.
NOTE:
To verify the balancer's accuracy and calibration, refer to the DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL
BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK.
3. Reinstall the balanced wheel/tire assemblies and torque the wheel nuts to 80 lb.ft. Do not use an
impact wrench to snug up or torque the wheel nuts; it may damage or distort the wheel and cause
steering wheel oscillation.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy >
Page 694
4. Road test the car and check for steering wheel oscillation. If it still oscillates, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to do a finish balance on the front wheel/tire/hub/disc assemblies.
NOTE:
Refer to section 4 of the Hofmann DAFB-10 Finish Wheel Balancer Operator's Manual that came
with the unit for detailed instructions.
Use this procedure to determine if the balancer is accurate to within 5 grams of imbalance. If the
balancer is not accurate to within 5 grams, it must be calibrated or repaired before being used to
correct a steering wheel oscillation problem. You will need a Honda factory or accessory alloy
wheel only, with no tire mounted, to perform this procedure.
1. Before starting, make sure the wheel has no balance weights. Perform a static balance, adding
weights as necessary to only one side of the wheel.
2. Loosen the wheel, rotate it 901, tighten the wheel, and recheck the balance. Repeat this three
more times, until the wheel returns to its original position. The balancer should not indicate any
more than 5 grams of additional weight is needed during this procedure. If more than 5 grams is
indicated, calibrate or repair the balancer.
3. Remove the weights just installed. Make sure the balancer is set to its finest balancing mode
(accuracy within 5 grams).
4. Perform a dynamic balance, adding weights as indicated by the balancer to both sides of the
wheel.
5. Once the wheel is in dynamic balance, add an additional 5 grams at any point on the rim and
recheck the balance.
The balancer should indicate that 5 grams is needed on the same side of the wheel at a point
exactly opposite the weight you added. If so, the balancer is in calibration.
If the balancer indicates that more than 10 grams is needed, or the indicated position is more than
1.5 inches from the point exactly opposite the weight you added, then the balancer needs
calibration or repair.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
06-082
This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda
automobiles and light trucks.
To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair
Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster
has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA
website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers.
Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on
the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer
to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ Chemical cement
^ Liquid buffer
^ Rim-bead sealer
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ Tire crayons
^ Awl or probe
^ Low speed buffer with quick release chuck and exhaust hose
^ Tire spreader
^ Inspection lamp
Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection.
Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury.
NOTE:
If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as
recommended by the RMA.
PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if
no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated,
dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to
the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION,
select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service Precautions >
Technician Safety Information
Tires: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: This vehicle has a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). Refer to the SRS
component and wiring location view in order to determine whether you are performing service on or
near the SRS components or the SRS wiring. when you are performing service on or near the SRS
components or the SRS wiring, refer to the SRS service information. failure to follow warnings
could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded SRS system
repairs.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service Precautions >
Technician Safety Information > Page 704
Tires: Vehicle Damage Warnings
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener,
use ONLY the exact part number for that application. Honda will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. Honda will also call out the fasteners that require thread
lockers or thread sealant. Unless otherwise specified, do not use supplemental coatings (Paints,
greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally,
such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping force, and may damage
the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications.
Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service Precautions >
Page 705
Replacement wheels or tires must be equivalent to the originals in load capacity, specified
dimension and mounting configuration. Improper size or type may affect bearing life, brake
performance, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to
the body and chassis. All model are equipped with metric sized tubeless steel belted radial tires.
Correct tire pressures and driving habits have an important influence on tire life. Heavy cornering,
excessively rapid acceleration and unnecessary sharp braking increase premature and uneven
wear.
The original equipment tires have built-in tread wear indicators (1) to show when tires need
replacement. These indicators may appear as wide bands. When the indicators appear in two or
more grooves at three locations, tire replacement is recommended.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes
Tires: Testing and Inspection Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes
CAUTION: Similar wear patterns can be caused by worn suspension parts, misalignment of wheels
and tires, and other suspension related problems.
Spotty Wear
Wear localized on shoulder sections, and in an extreme cases, the tire becomes polygonal in
shape. 1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Hub or knuckle out of round or distorted. 3. Play
in hub bearings or ball joint. 4. Rotating parts out of balance.
1. Rotating parts out of balance. 2. Tire or wheel out of round. 3. Hub or knuckle out of round or
distorted.
Part 1 Of 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 710
Part 2 Of 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 711
Tires: Testing and Inspection Diagnosis List
1. Front tire wear is different from rear. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3. Left
and right front tire wear is unequal. 4. Left and right rear tire wear is unequal.
1. Left and right front tire wear is unequal. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3.
Front tire treads have scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of tread ribs or blocks.
4. There is cupping, flat spotting etc.
1. Hard ride. 2. Poor steering stability. 3. Rapid and uneven wear at center of the tread.
1. Tire squeal on turns. 2. Hard steering. 3. Rapid and uneven wear on the edges of the tread. 4.
Tire rim bruises and rupture. 5. Tire cord breakage. 6. High tire temperatures. 7. Reduced handling.
8. Reduced fuel economy.
Irregular and/or premature wear has many causes. Some of them are incorrect inflation pressures,
lack of tire rotation, poor driving habits or improper wheel alignment. Incorrect inflation is common
cause of tire premature wear.
NOTE: Due to their design, radial tires tend to wear faster in the shoulder area, particularly on the
front tires. This makes regular rotation especially necessary. After rotation, be sure to check wheel
nut torque, and set tire pressures.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 713
Tires: Testing and Inspection
CAUTION: Similar wear patterns can be caused by worn suspension parts, misalignment of wheels
and tires, and other suspension related problems.
Spotty Wear
Wear localized on shoulder sections, and in an extreme cases, the tire becomes polygonal in
shape. 1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Hub or knuckle out of round or distorted. 3. Play
in hub bearings or ball joint. 4. Rotating parts out of balance.
1. Rotating parts out of balance. 2. Tire or wheel out of round. 3. Hub or knuckle out of round or
distorted.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 714
Localized Tread Wear
1. Once spotty wear develops in tread due to hard braking or abrupt starting, localized wear tends
to be promoted.
Part 1 Of 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 716
Part 2 Of 2
Diagnosis List
1. Front tire wear is different from rear. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3. Left
and right front tire wear is unequal. 4. Left and right rear tire wear is unequal.
1. Left and right front tire wear is unequal. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3.
Front tire treads have scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of tread ribs or blocks.
4. There is cupping, flat spotting etc.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 717
1. Hard ride. 2. Poor steering stability. 3. Rapid and uneven wear at center of the tread.
1. Tire squeal on turns. 2. Hard steering. 3. Rapid and uneven wear on the edges of the tread. 4.
Tire rim bruises and rupture. 5. Tire cord breakage. 6. High tire temperatures. 7. Reduced handling.
8. Reduced fuel economy.
Irregular and/or premature wear has many causes. Some of them are incorrect inflation pressures,
lack of tire rotation, poor driving habits or improper wheel alignment. Incorrect inflation is common
cause of tire premature wear.
NOTE: Due to their design, radial tires tend to wear faster in the shoulder area, particularly on the
front tires. This makes regular rotation especially necessary. After rotation, be sure to check wheel
nut torque, and set tire pressures.
"Lead/Pull" is vehicle deviation from a straight path, on a level road with no pressure on the
steering wheel. Lead is usually caused by:
The way in which a tire is built can produce lead in a car. An example of this is placement of the
belt. Off-center belts on radial tires can cause the tire to develop a side force while rolling straight
down the road and the tire will tend to roll like a cone. The "Radial Tire Lead/Pull Correction" chart
should be used to make sure that front wheel alignment is not mistaken for tire lead. Rear tires will
not cause lead/pull.
Radial Tire Waddle
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 718
Waddle is side-to-side movement at the front and/or rear of the car. It can be caused by the steel
belt not being straight within the tire, or by excessive lateral runout of the tire or wheel. It is most
noticeable at low speed, about 8 to 48 km/h (5 to 30 mph). It may also cause rough ride at 80 to
113 km/h (50 to 70 mph). The car can be road tested to see which end of the car has the faulty tire.
If the tire causing the waddle is on the rear, the rear end of the car will "waddle". From the driver's
seat, it feels as if someone is pushing on the side of the car. If the faulty tire is on the front, the
waddle is more easily seen. The front sheet metal appears to be moving back and forth. It feels as
if the driver's seat is the pivot point in the car. Another more time-consuming method of determining
the faulty tire is substituting tire and wheel assemblies that are known to be good. Follow these
steps:
1. Drive the car to determine if the waddle is coming from the front or rear. 2. Install tire and wheel
assemblies known to be good (from a similar car) in place of those on the end of the car which is
waddling. If the waddle
3. Road test again. If improvement is noted, install the original tire and wheel assemblies one at a
time until the faulty tire is found. If no
improvement is noted, install tires known to be good in place of all four. Then, install the originals
one at a time until the faulty tire is found.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel
Tires: Service and Repair Separating the Tire From the Wheel
Use a tire changing machine to demount tires. Do not use hand tools or tire irons alone to remove
the tire from the wheel. Damage to the tire beads or wheel rim could result. Follow the tire changing
machine manufacturer's instructions to properly separate the tire from the wheel.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 721
Tires: Service and Repair Mounting the Tire on the Wheel
CAUTION: Recommended vehicle tire mounting and inflation procedures are especially important
with radial tires. Failure to follow these procedures can cause bead deformation in both tube type
and tubeless tires due to incorrect bead seating. Bead deformation may lead to chafing, lower
sidewall and bead area cracking, eccentric wear, ride vibration and nonretreadable casings. Only
use rims approved for radial tire usage by the rim manufacture.
1. Clean the rim. Remove all rust and other foreign material. 2. Lubricate tire beads and rim bead
seats with an approved rubber lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not use silicon base lubricants. This could cause the tire to slip on the wheel.
b. Align air valve and tire balancing match marks (about 8 mm diameter paint mark). Hold in this
position and inflate the until the tire beads are
firmly seated on the rim against the flanges (steel wheel model only).
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance:
a. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically
unbalanced cause a bouncing action called
b. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that
when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
NOTE: Using wheel balancing equipment. Follow the tire balancing machine manufacturer's
instructions to properly balance wheel and tire. Balance weight for the wheel should not exceed
170 g in total, and 140 g is the maximum amount for either side.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 723
Tire rotation is recommended to equalize wear for longer life. If the following conditions are noted,
rotate the tires:
- Left and right rear tire wear is unequal. Check wheel alignment if the following conditions are
noted:
- Front tire treads have a scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of the tread ribs or
blocks.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 724
Tires: Service and Repair
Use a tire changing machine to demount tires. Do not use hand tools or tire irons alone to remove
the tire from the wheel. Damage to the tire beads or wheel rim could result. Follow the tire changing
machine manufacturer's instructions to properly separate the tire from the wheel.
CAUTION: Recommended vehicle tire mounting and inflation procedures are especially important
with radial tires. Failure to follow these procedures can cause bead deformation in both tube type
and tubeless tires due to incorrect bead seating. Bead deformation may lead to chafing, lower
sidewall and bead area cracking, eccentric wear, ride vibration and nonretreadable casings. Only
use rims approved for radial tire usage by the rim manufacture.
1. Clean the rim. Remove all rust and other foreign material. 2. Lubricate tire beads and rim bead
seats with an approved rubber lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not use silicon base lubricants. This could cause the tire to slip on the wheel.
b. Align air valve and tire balancing match marks (about 8 mm diameter paint mark). Hold in this
position and inflate the until the tire beads are
firmly seated on the rim against the flanges (steel wheel model only).
Balancing
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 725
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance:
a. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically
unbalanced cause a bouncing action called
b. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that
when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
NOTE: Using wheel balancing equipment. Follow the tire balancing machine manufacturer's
instructions to properly balance wheel and tire. Balance weight for the wheel should not exceed
170 g in total, and 140 g is the maximum amount for either side.
Tire Rotation
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 726
Tire rotation is recommended to equalize wear for longer life. If the following conditions are noted,
rotate the tires:
- Left and right rear tire wear is unequal. Check wheel alignment if the following conditions are
noted:
- Front tire treads have a scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of the tread ribs or
blocks.
Inflation of Tires
Tire pressure, in cold condition (after vehicle has set for three hours or more, and driven less than
one mile) should be checked monthly or before any extended trip. Tire pressure increases
approximately 15% when the tires become hot during driving. Tire pressure specification is shown
on the label located on the left door lock pillar.
NOTE: Check the tire pressure whenever irregular wear is found. Tire inflation greatly affects tire
wear. If the alignment check does not reveal any alignment problems, check the condition of the
shock absorbers and wheel/tire balance.
Tire Replacement
TIRE REPLACEMENT
When replacement is necessary, the original metric the size should be used. Most metric tire sizes
do not have exact corresponding alphanumeric tire sizes. It is recommended that new tires be
installed in pairs on the same axle. If necessary to replace only one tire, it should be paired with tire
having the most tread, to equalize braking traction.
CAUTION: Do not mix different types of tires such as radial, bias and bias-belted tires except in
emergencies, because vehicle handling may be seriously affected and may result in loss of control.
Tire Dismounting
Remove valve cap on valve step and deflate the tire. Then use a tire changing machine to mount or
dismount tires. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instruction. Do not use hand tools or tire lever
alone to change tires as they may damage the tire beads or wheel rim.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 727
Tire Mounting
Rim bead seats should be cleaned with a wire brush or coarse steel wool to remove lubricants, and
light rust. Before mounting a tire, the bead area should be well lubricated with an approved tire
lubricant. After mounting, inflate the tire to 196 kPa (28 psi) so that beads are completely seated.
Inflate the air to specified pressure and install valve cap to the stem.
WARNING: Never stand over tire when inflating. bead may break when bead snaps over rim's
safety hump and cause serious personal injury. never exceed 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure when
inflating. if 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure will not seat beads, deflate, re-lubricate and re-inflate. over
inflation may cause the bead to break and cause serious personal injury.
Tire Repair
There are many different materials on the market used to repair tires. Manufacturers have
published detailed instructions on how and when to repair tires. These instructions can be obtained
from the tire manufacturer if they are not included with the repair kit.
Wheel Inspection
Damaged wheels and wheels with excessive run-out must be replaced. Wheel run out at rim (Base
on hub Bore):
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight
around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically unbalanced cause a bouncing action called tramp.
This condition will eventually cause uneven tire wear. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of
weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Adjustments
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments
1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, remove wheels, then remove brake pads as outlined in ``Disc
Brakes Section.''
2. Remove grease cap, cotter pin, pin holder and pin holder.
3. Lubricate spindle threads, install spindle nut and torque nut to 18 ft. lbs.
4. Rotate brake disc several revolutions, then torque spindle nut to 18 ft. lbs.
6. Loosen spindle nut until it just breaks free, but does not turn (0 ft. lbs.), then torque nut to 40 ft.
lbs.
7. Install pin holder with slot as close as possible to hole in spindle, tighten nut just enough to align
slot, then install cotter pin and grease cap.
8. Check rotating torque of disc and hub assembly with suitable spring scale.
9. If reading is not 0.9-4 lbs., check for improperly tightened spindle nut or damaged bearings.
10. Reinstall brake pads and wheels, depress and release brake pedal several times to seat pads
against brake disc, then lower vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
3. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels and spindle nut.
4. Remove caliper and wire aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose.
5. Remove brake disc attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching
screw holes to pull disc from hub. When tightening screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent
cocking the brake disc.
7. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod end remover.
8. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way.
9. Using a suitable jawed puller, separate ball joint and lower arm.
10. Remove upper ball joint shield, then cotter pin and nut.
11. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm using a suitable ball joint remover.
12. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off driveshaft.
15. Remove remaining splash guard to knuckle attaching screw, then the splash guard.
16. Remove outboard dust seal and snap ring from steering knuckle, then the outboard inner
bearing race and bearing.
17. Flip knuckle over, then remove inboard dust seal, inboard inner bearing race and bearing.
18. Using a suitable press, remove bearing outer race from steering knuckle.
21. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Figs. 3 and 4, for torque specifications.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 735
1. Raise and support vehicle, the remove caliper and mounting bracket as outlined in ``Disc Brakes
Section.'' It is not necessary to disconnect brake hose from caliper.
2. Remove grease cap, cotter pin, retainer, nut and washer, then remove disc and hub assembly,
taking care not to drop outer bearing.
3. Remove outer bearing from hub, drive out rear grease seal using suitable punch, then remove
rear bearing.
4. Clean bearings, hub cavity, spindle, washer, nut, pin holder and grease cap with suitable solvent
and blow dry with compressed air. Keep solvent away from brake contact surface. Do not spin dry
bearings as bearings will be damaged.
5. Inspect bearings and races, and replace if damaged, scored, pitted or excessively worn.
a. Drive races from hub, positioning suitable drift in slots behind each race, Fig. 6. b. Position new
race squarely in hub and seat race in hub using suitable driver, Fig. 6.
7. Pack bearings with grease, working grease through wide if bearing with palm of hand, then coat
outer surfaces of rollers with grease.
8. Pack grease in hub cavity behind inner and outer bearing races.
9. Place inner bearing in hub, install new grease seal using suitable driver, then coat seal lip with
thin film of grease.
10. Mount hub assembly on spindle, install outer bearing, washer and nut, then adjust bearings as
outlined.
11. Pack grease cap approximately 1/4 full of grease, install new seal, if equipped, then install new
grease cap.
12. Install caliper assembly and wheels, depress and release brake pedal several times to seat
pads against rotor, then lower vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Cover > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Wheel Cover: > 89031 > Mar > 90 > Wheels - Emblem In Wheel Cover Fades or
Becomes Detached
Wheel Cover: Customer Interest Wheels - Emblem In Wheel Cover Fades or Becomes Detached
Model Applicable To
AFFECTED
SUSPENSION Issue Date MAR 16, 1990 Wheel Cover Emblem Replacement (Supersedes
89-031, dated October 6, 1989) SYMPTOM
The "H" emblem in the center of the plastic wheel cover fades or becomes detached.
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
All 1986-89 cars with recessed emblem All 1990 Accords All 1990 Preludes
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Inspect the "H" emblem on all fourwheels. Replace only the emblems that are damaged.
1. Using a sharp blade, lift the tip of the "H" emblem out of the recess in the wheel cover. Be
careful not to scratch the painted surface of the wheel cover. Peel the old emblem off with your
fingers.
NOTE: If the adhesive remains stuck to the wheel cover, roll the adhesive off with your finger tip.
CAUTION: Don't use solvent to remove the adhesive. Some solvents can damage the painted
surface of the cover.
2. Remove the protective backing from the new "H" emblem listed under "PARTS INFORMATION".
Attach the new "H" emblem to the wheel cover. Rub the new emblem with a clean cloth to assure it
sticks evenly.
PARTS INFORMATION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Cover > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Wheel Cover: > 89031 > Mar > 90 > Wheels - Emblem In Wheel Cover Fades or
Becomes Detached > Page 744
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour (for replacement of one or all four emblems)
AFFECTED
SUSPENSION Issue Date MAR 16, 1990 Wheel Cover Emblem Replacement (Supersedes
89-031, dated October 6, 1989) SYMPTOM
The "H" emblem in the center of the plastic wheel cover fades or becomes detached.
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
All 1986-89 cars with recessed emblem All 1990 Accords All 1990 Preludes
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Inspect the "H" emblem on all fourwheels. Replace only the emblems that are damaged.
1. Using a sharp blade, lift the tip of the "H" emblem out of the recess in the wheel cover. Be
careful not to scratch the painted surface of the wheel cover. Peel the old emblem off with your
fingers.
NOTE: If the adhesive remains stuck to the wheel cover, roll the adhesive off with your finger tip.
CAUTION: Don't use solvent to remove the adhesive. Some solvents can damage the painted
surface of the cover.
2. Remove the protective backing from the new "H" emblem listed under "PARTS INFORMATION".
Attach the new "H" emblem to the wheel cover. Rub the new emblem with a clean cloth to assure it
sticks evenly.
PARTS INFORMATION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Cover > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Cover: > 89031 > Mar > 90 > Wheels - Emblem In Wheel Cover
Fades or Becomes Detached > Page 750
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour (for replacement of one or all four emblems)
TORQUE..............................................................................................................................................
..........................................................Ft.lbs. (N.m)
87-91
All MODELS
1984-91 All...........................................................................................................................................
.............................................................80 ft/lbs
1983 Civic.............................................................................................................................................
.......................................................50-65 ft/lbs
1983 Prelude........................................................................................................................................
.........................................................72-88 ft/lbs
1983 Accord.........................................................................................................................................
........................................................72-88 ft/lbs
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Specifications
> Wheel Fastener Torque > Page 759
IMPORTANT
Check all parts, including rims, lug studs, lug nuts, and mating surfaces of hubs and tire rims for
rust, damage, or dirt. Clean mating surfaces with a wire brush to remove any foreign material.
Replace any damaged parts as needed. Careless installation of tire/rim assemblies in a vehicle is a
major cause of tire installation problems. Proper installation, including fastener torque, is essential
to economical, safe and trouble free service. Use only the proper sizes and types of fasteners for
safe and proper service. Tighten the fasteners a quarter turn at a time using the tightening
sequence diagram as a guide. This is very important to prevent misalignment of the wheel.
Continue tightening the fasteners in sequence until the fasteners are tightened to the proper torque
(See WHEEL FASTENER TORQUE).
CAUTION: Improper torque or tightening sequence can cause distortion, fatigue cracks, or
alignment problems. After driving the vehicle for a short distance, recheck the wheel fastener
torque. Parts will usually seat naturally, reducing the torque on the fasteners. Retorque all
fasteners to the proper torque.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information >
Specifications
Camshaft: Specifications
Camshaft Oil Clearance Nos. 1,3 & 5 Journals Standard (New) 0.002-0.004 in
Camshaft: Specifications
8mm 16 ft.lb
Camshaft Pulley Bolt 8mm 27 ft.lb
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 771
Camshaft: Testing and Inspection
INSPECTION
NOTE: Do not rotate camshaft during inspection; loosen the adjust screws before starting.
2. Zero dial indicator against end of distributor drive, then push camshaft back and forth, and read
the end play.
Camshaft End Play: Standard (New): 0.05-0.15 mm (0.002-0.006 in.) Service Limit: 0.5 mm (0.02
in.)
3. Remove the rocker arm bolts, then remove the rocker assembly from the cylinder head.
NOTE: Unscrew the rocker arm bolts, two turns at a time, in a criss-cross pattern, to prevent
damaging valves or rocker assembly.
- Lift camshaft out of cylinder head, wipe clean, then inspect lift ramps. Replace camshaft if lobes
are pitted, scored, or excessively worn.
- Clean the camshaft bearing surfaces in the cylinder head, then set camshaft back in place.
- Install the rocker arm assembly and torque bolts to values and in sequence shown, then remove
the bolts and the rocker arm assembly.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 772
4. Measure widest portion of plastigage on each journal.
Camshaft Bearing Radial Clearance: No.1, 3 and 5 JOURNALS Standard (New): 0.050-0.089 mm
(0.002-0.004 in.) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
No.2 and 4 JOURNALS Standard (New): 0.130-0.169 mm (0.005-0.007 in.) Service Limit: 0.23 mm
(0.009 in.)
- And camshaft has already been replaced, you must replace the cylinder head.
- If camshaft has not been replaced, first check total runout with the camshaft supported on
V-blocks.
Camshaft Total Runout: Standard (New): 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) Service Limit: 0.06 mm (0.002 in.)
- If the total runout of the camshaft is within tolerance, replace the cylinder head.
- If the total runout is out of tolerance, replace the camshaft and recheck. If the bearing clearance is
still out of tolerance, replace the cylinder head.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 773
Camshaft: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 774
1. To ease reassembly, turn the pulley until the "UP" mark faces up, and the front timing mark is
aligned with the valve cover surface.
2. Remove the pulley retaining bolt and washer, then remove the pulley.
NOTE: Before removing rocker arm assembly, check camshaft end play.
INSPECTION
NOTE: Do not rotate camshaft during inspection; loosen the adjust screws before starting.
Camshaft End Play: Standard (New): 0.05-0.15 mm (0.002-0.006 in.) Service Limit: 0.5 mm (0.02
in.)
3. Remove the rocker arm bolts, then remove the rocker assembly from the cylinder head.
NOTE: Unscrew the rocker arm bolts, two turns at a time, in a criss-cross pattern, to prevent
damaging valves or rocker assembly.
- Lift camshaft out of cylinder head, wipe clean, then inspect lift ramps. Replace camshaft if lobes
are pitted, scored, or excessively worn.
- Clean the camshaft bearing surfaces in the cylinder head, then set camshaft back in place.
- Install the rocker arm assembly and torque bolts to values and in sequence shown, then remove
the bolts and the rocker arm assembly.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 776
4. Measure widest portion ot plastigage on each journal.
Camshaft Bearing Radial Clearance: No.1, 3 and 5 JOURNALS Standard (New): 0.050-0.089 mm
(0.002-0.004 in.) Service Limit: 0.15 mm (0.006 in.)
No.2 and 4 JOURNALS Standard (New): 0.130-0.169 mm (0.005-0.007 in.) Service Limit: 0.23 mm
(0.009 in.)
- And camshaft has already been replaced, you must replace the cylinder head.
- If camshaft has not been replaced, first check total runout with the camshaft supported on
V-blocks.
Camshaft Total Runout: Standard (New): 0.03 mm (0.001 in.) Service Limit: 0.06 mm (0.002 in.)
- If the total runout of the camshaft is within tolerance, replace the cylinder head.
- If the total runout is out of tolerance, replace the camshaft and recheck. If the bearing clearance is
still out of tolerance, replace the cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: -
Make sure that all rockers are in alignment with valves with torquing rocker assembly bolts.
- Valve locknuts should be loosened and adjusting screws backed off before installation.
1. After wiping down cam and journals in cylinder head, lubricate both surfaces and install
camshaft.
2. Turn camshaft until its keyway is facing up. (No.1 cylinder TDC).
3. Install the camshaft seal with the open side (springl facing in.
5. Drive in the camshaft oil seal securely with the special tool.
6. Tighten each bolt two turns at a time in the sequence shown below to ensure that the rockers do
not bind on the valves.
8. Push camshaft pulley onto camshaft, then tighten retaining bolt to 27 ft-lbs.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Locations > Carbureted Engine
Fig. 16 Rocker arms & cylinder head components. 1988 Prelude w/fuel injected engine
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications
Connecting Rod Bearing: Specifications
Main bearings are color coded on their edge according to the following table of tolerances: COLOR
TOLERANCE Red -0.0001 to -0.0002 in. (-0.002 to 0.005 mm) Pink +0.00004 to -0.0001 in.
(+0.001 to -0.002 mm) Yellow +0.0002 to -0.00004 in. (+0.004 to -0.001 mm) Green +0.00003 to
-0.0002 in. (+0.007 to -0.004 mm) Brown +0.00004 to -0.0003 in. (+0.010 to -0.007 mm) Black
+0.00005 to -0.0004 in. (+0.013 to -0.010 mm) Blue +0.00006 to -0.0005 in. (+0.016 to -0.013 mm)
Connecting rod bearings are color coded on their edge according to the following table of
tolerances: Red -0.0002 to -0.0003 in. (-0.005 to 0.008 mm) Pink +0.0001 to -0.0002 in. (-0.002 to
-0.005 mm) Yellow +0.00004 to -0.0001 in. (+0.001 to -0.002 mm) Green +0.00002 to -0.00004 in.
(+0.004 to -0.001 mm) Brown +0.0003 to +0.0002 in. (+0.007 to +0.004 mm) Black +0.0004 to
+0.0003 in. (+0.0.010 to +0.007 mm) Blue +0.0005 to +0.0004 in. (+0.013 to -0.010 mm)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 788
Connecting Rod Bearing: Application and ID
MAIN BEARING SELECTION Different sizes of main bearings may be present in the same engine.
To find the correct bearing size for each journal, use the provided chart to properly reference the
code markings on block and crankshaft.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 789
Rod Bearing Code Location
ROD BEARING SELECTION Different sizes of rod bearings may be present in the same engine.
To find the correct bearing size for each journal, use the provided chart to properly reference the
code markings on connecting rod and crankshaft.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Connecting Rod Damage Information
Connecting Rod: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Connecting Rod Damage Information
Curious why connecting rods break? Afier all, these are heavy-duty parts specifically designed to
endure punishing forces and temperatures. Yet, every once in a while they do bend or break and
wind up as cool conversation pieces for a coffee table or desk.
Connecting rods break only after they've gotten bent. And they won't get bent unless the engine
hydro-locks or the rod bearings fail.
When troubleshooting a bent or broken connecting rod, here are some things to consider:
^ The number one culprit for connecting rod breakage is hydro-lock. This happens when liquid
(water or fuel) entering the combustion chamber exceeds
the chamber's volume. Since liquids don't compress, that extra volume in the chamber causes the
rod to bend. You won't really notice anything wrong, until that bent rod finally gives out and breaks.
This could happen if you're driving through deep, standing water and someone coming the other
way splashes water over your hood. On very rare occasions, a bad ECM/PCM or fuel injector can
cause too much fuel to enter a cylinder, causing hydro-lock and resulting in a bent rod. Before this
happens, though, there are usually some kind of drive ability problems that crop up and remain
afier the engine is fixed.
A bent rod might not show any symptoms until it actually breaks. But bent rods leave a
wider-than-normal carbon witness line in the cylinder because they're shorter. Typically, a healthy
engine has a carbon line that's 6 mm deep. An engine that's suffering from bent rods has a second
carbon line that's 9 to 12 mm deep.
^ Connecting rod bearings fail for a number of reasons. To properly determine what actually
caused a rod bearing to fail, you've got to take apart all rod
bearings and main bearings and compare them side by side. If all or most of the bearings and
journals show similar damage (scoring, exposed copper, or heat discoloration) the likely cause is
oil starvation, poor maintenance, customer abuse, or running the engine with an aftermarket power
booster (nitrous oxide setup, supercharger, turbocharger). If only the bearing or journal for the
failed rod looks bad but all the other ones look good (no scoring, no exposed copper or heat
discoloration) and the crankshaft journals are smooth with no heat discoloration, then that particular
bearing/ clearance would be suspect.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Specifications > Torque Specifications
Fig. 30 Piston & connecting rod assembly. 1986-87 Accord & 1986-87 Prelude w/fuel injection
engine & All 1988 Models
Main bearings are color coded on their edge according to the following table of tolerances: COLOR
TOLERANCE Red -0.0001 to -0.0002 in. (-0.002 to 0.005 mm) Pink +0.00004 to -0.0001 in.
(+0.001 to -0.002 mm) Yellow +0.0002 to -0.00004 in. (+0.004 to -0.001 mm) Green +0.00003 to
-0.0002 in. (+0.007 to -0.004 mm) Brown +0.00004 to -0.0003 in. (+0.010 to -0.007 mm) Black
+0.00005 to -0.0004 in. (+0.013 to -0.010 mm) Blue +0.00006 to -0.0005 in. (+0.016 to -0.013 mm)
Connecting rod bearings are color coded on their edge according to the following table of
tolerances: Red -0.0002 to -0.0003 in. (-0.005 to 0.008 mm) Pink +0.0001 to -0.0002 in. (-0.002 to
-0.005 mm) Yellow +0.00004 to -0.0001 in. (+0.001 to -0.002 mm) Green +0.00002 to -0.00004 in.
(+0.004 to -0.001 mm) Brown +0.0003 to +0.0002 in. (+0.007 to +0.004 mm) Black +0.0004 to
+0.0003 in. (+0.0.010 to +0.007 mm) Blue +0.0005 to +0.0004 in. (+0.013 to -0.010 mm)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 801
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Application and ID
MAIN BEARING SELECTION Different sizes of main bearings may be present in the same engine.
To find the correct bearing size for each journal, use the provided chart to properly reference the
code markings on block and crankshaft.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 802
Rod Bearing Code Location
ROD BEARING SELECTION Different sizes of rod bearings may be present in the same engine.
To find the correct bearing size for each journal, use the provided chart to properly reference the
code markings on connecting rod and crankshaft.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Service Specifications
Crankshaft: Specifications
.0012-.0019 inch.
Crankshaft: Specifications
Piston: Specifications
Fig. 30 Piston & connecting rod assembly. 1986-87 Accord & 1986-87 Prelude w/fuel injection
engine & All 1988 Models
Minimum Ring End Gap Compression Ring Note: Top ring, .008 inch; second ring, .016 inch.
2. Loosen the 6 mm service bolt on top of the fuel filter one complete turn, while holding the special
banjo bolt using a suitable wrench. Place a suitable towel over the 6 mm bolt before relieving fuel
pressure.
3. Replace washer between service bolt and banjo bolt whenever service bolt is loosened.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Locations > Carbureted Engine
Fig. 16 Rocker arms & cylinder head components. 1988 Prelude w/fuel injected engine
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Valve Guide: Service and Repair
1. For best results, heat cylinder head to 300°F (150°C) before removing or installing valve guides.
2. Drive valve guide out bottom of cylinder head using suitable tool.
4. Using suitable valve guide installation tool, drive valve guide into place until tool bottoms.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Drive Belt: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
Tensioning the engine belts properly with the belt tension gauge (T/N 07JGG-001010A) is critical to
bearing life of the A/C compressor, alternator, etc. Calibration of the belt tension gauge should be
checked regularly.
CALIBRATION
A Belt Tension Gauge Checker, needed for checking the calibration of the belt tension gauge, is
now available. One checker is being automatically shipped to each dealership. Additional checkers
may be ordered through normal parts ordering channels. The part number is 07TGG-001010A.
Procedure
1. Push the handle and slide the checker into the gauge. Position the checker as shown.
2. Release the handle and read the tension value on the Kg scale.
3. Compare your reading to the value etched on the checker. Your gauge is in calibration if it is
within +/- 3 kg of the checker value.
If your belt tension gauge is out of calibration, you cannot recalibrate it yourself. Contact America
Kowa Seiki about sending it for recalibration.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Belt Tension Gauge Calibration and Repair >
Page 838
If your belt tension gauge is damaged, replacement parts are available from America Kowa Seiki.
They are:
(800) 824-9655
^ Pack the belt tension gauge in a suitable box. Use "bubble pack" to protect the gauge.
The Time-Sert Fastener Company has developed a kit to repair stripped oil pan drain plug holes.
After using the kit, the drain hole is reduced to 12 mm, so you'll also need the new drain plug and
washer listed below (available through our Parts Division). You can phone Time-Sert at
800-423-4070 or, in California, at 818-579-1304.
Model
ALL Applicable To
82-003
Issue Date MAY 20, '88 Oil Consumption Test (Supersedes 82-003, dated March, 1982)
PROBLEM
Oil consumption of more than 1 quart in 1000 miles within the New Car Limited Warranty.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Track the oil consumption for twice the alleged mileage per quart.
^ Change the oil and filter. Use an SF grade detergent oil in a viscosity suitable for the outside
temperatures in your area.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Oil Consumption Test > Page 849
TEXT OF OWNER'S COPY OF OIL CONSUMPTION TEST
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Oil Consumption Test > Page 850
^ Tell owners they must have the oil checked each time they get gas. If the oil level is a quart or
more low, they must add the right kind of oil, then record how much and at what mileage and the
date on their copy of the test form. Or they can return to the dealership and have you add and
record the oil for them.
2. After tracking the oil consumption, complete your copy of the test form. If consumption exceeded
1 quart in 1000 miles, test and repair the engine as outlined on your copy of the test form. Attach
your completed copy to the hard copy of the repair order.
WARRANTY
Normal 24-month/24,000-mile power train warranty applies. An Oil Consumption Test (see inside)
must be completed on the car before you begin any necessary repairs. We will pay for test-related
oil and filter changes if subsequent repairs are made under warranty. Any deviation from the test
and repair procedure listed on your copy of the form will require prior DSM authorization.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil
New standard for engine oil, GF-4. See TSB SN050109 for Honda Service News 050109 for
additional information.
Viscosity ..............................................................................................................................................
......................................................................... 5W30
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Oil Pan: Service and Repair
2. Remove oil pan attaching bolts and nuts, then the oil pan.
3. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten retaining bolts in crossing pattern moving outward from
center. On 1984-85 Accord and Prelude, torque retaining bolts to 10 ft. lbs. and retaining nuts to 7
ft. lbs. On 1984-85 Civic, 1985 CRX and all 1986 models, torque retaining bolts and nuts to 7 ft.
lbs. On 1987 Accord and Prelude, torque retaining bolts and nuts to 10 ft. lbs. On 1987 Civic and
CRX, torque retaining bolts and nuts to 9 ft lbs.
4WD WAGON
1. Remove engine splash shield, then drain engine and transmission oil.
3. Remove transmission splash shield, then the transfer left side cover from the transfer case.
4. Remove driven gear from transfer case, then the transfer case from clutch housing.
a. Apply liquid gasket to the clutch housing mating surface of the transfer case. b. Apply suitable
sealant to the inner threads of the oil pan attaching bolts. c. Tighten attaching bolts alternately on
each side, moving out from the center. Torque attaching bolts to 7 ft. lbs.
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Oil Pressure Switch: Specifications
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil
Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 867
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil
Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 868
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 876
Test Equipment
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Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 877
Troubleshooting Precautions
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Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 878
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 880
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil
Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 881
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Remove the YEL/RED wire from the oil pressure switch. 2. There should be continuity between
the positive terminal and the engine (ground) with the engine stopped. There should be no
continuity when the
engine runs.
3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level, then inspect the oil pump and pressure if
the oil level is correct.
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 900
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 901
Ground Distribution Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 902
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 904
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 905
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 909
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 910
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 911
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 912
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 913
Test Equipment
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 914
Troubleshooting Precautions
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 915
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 916
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 917
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 918
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 919
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 920
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 923
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Fig. 34 Oil pump assembly. 1984-88 Civic & CRX & 1988 Prelude
2. Remove timing belt. Refer to ``Cam Drive Sprocket & Timing Belt, Replace'' procedure.
5. Remove oil pump attaching bolts, then the oil pump, Fig. 34.
6. Reverse procedure to install. Torque oil pump and screen attaching bolts to 9 ft. lbs. and oil
pump screen attaching nuts to 18 ft. lbs.
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Specifications
Circuit Schematics
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 943
Fuse Details Schematics
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 944
Ground Distribution Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 945
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 947
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 948
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 949
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
5. Clean seal seating surfaces thoroughly, apply a light coat of oil to the crankshaft and the lip of
the seal and position seal with the part number side facing out.
6. Drive seal until it bottoms against block using suitable seal installer tool.
7. Install oil pan and then install engine and transmission assembly in vehicle.
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 996
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 997
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 998
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 999
Test Equipment
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<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1000
Troubleshooting Precautions
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Switch
<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1001
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Switch
<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1002
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Switch
<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1003
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Switch
<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1004
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Switch
<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1005
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Switch
<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1006
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1008
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1009
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1010
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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<--> [Oil Pressure Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1012
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Remove the YEL/RED wire from the oil pressure switch. 2. There should be continuity between
the positive terminal and the engine (ground) with the engine stopped. There should be no
continuity when the
engine runs.
3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level, then inspect the oil pump and pressure if
the oil level is correct.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Specifications
ILLUSTRATED INDEX
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1024
CAUTION: Always adjust timing belt tension with the engine cold.
NOTE: Tensioner is spring loaded to apply proper tension to the belt automatically.
1. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC. 2. Loosen, but do not remove, the adjust bolt. 3. Rotate crankshaft
counterclockwise 3 teeth on camshaft pulley to create tension on timing belt. 4. Tighten adjust bolt,
torque to:
NOTE: Put transmission in gear and set parking brake before retorquing pulley bolt.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Belt > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1026
Timing Belt: Service and Repair
1. Remove the engine support bolts and nuts, then remove the side mount rubber and side mount
bracket.
3. Remove the power steering pump adjust pulley nut and the adjust bolt, then remove the adjust
pulley, P/S pump and the belt. 4. Remove the alternator through bolt, mount bolt and the adjust nut,
then remove the alternator and the belt.
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Information > Specifications > Page 1027
NOTE: On cars with air conditioning (A/C): Remove the A/C compressor mount bolts, then remove
the A/C compressor and the belt.
5. Remove the valve cover. 6. Remove the special bolt, then remove crankshaft pulley. 7. Remove
the timing belt upper cover and the lower cover. 8. Loosen the adjust bolt, then remove the timing
belt.
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9. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: -
Install the timing belt with the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke.
- To set the crankshaft to TDC, install the timing belt guide plates, timing belt drive pulley,
crankshaft pulley, and crankshaft pulley bolt.
10. Carry out timing belt tension adjustment. 11. After installation. adjust the tension of each belt.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
Fuel Pressure: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement
Parts
97-020
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts >
Page 1034
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
3. Start engine, then measure fuel pressure with engine idling and vacuum hose of pressure
regulator disconnected. Pressure should be 33---39 psi for 1985---86 models or 36---41 psi on
1987---88 models.
4. If fuel pressure is not as specified, check fuel pump for proper operation. Repair or replace as
required.
5. If fuel pump is satisfactory and fuel pressure is higher than specified, proceed as follows:
a. Check for pinched or clogged fuel return hose or piping. b. Check for defective pressure
regulator.
6. If fuel pump is satisfactory and fuel pressure is lower than specified, proceed as follows:
a. Check for clogged fuel filter. b. Check for pinched or clogged fuel hose from fuel tank to fuel
pump. c. Check for defective pressure regulator. d. Check for leak in fuel line. e. Check for pinched,
broken or disconnected regulator vacuum hose.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air/Fuel
Mixture > System Information > Specifications
Note: Idle mixture cannot be adjusted on fuel injected engines. On carbureted engines, idle mixture
adjustment should only be performed after diagnosis has revealed no other faults, or if carburetor
has been overhauled. A propane enrichment tool is necessary to accurately adjust idle mixture.
See Adjustment section for procedure.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air/Fuel
Mixture > System Information > Specifications > Page 1040
Idle mixture cannot be adjusted on fuel injected engines. On carbureted engines, idle mixture
adjustment should only be performed after diagnosis has revealed no other faults, or if carburetor
has been overhauled. A propane enrichment tool is necessary to accurately adjust idle mixture.
1. Adjust idle speed to specifications as outlined under ``Curb Idle Speed, Adjust,'' and leave
vehicle prepared as outlined in adjustment procedure.
2. Perform the following to prepare vehicle for propane enrichment idle speed check:
a. On 1985-86 Prelude with automatic transaxle, remove frequency solenoid valve A and air control
valve A, then disconnect vacuum lines and
b. On 1986 Accord with automatic transaxle, disconnect and plug inside hose to idle boost throttle
controller, disconnect hose from frequency
solenoid valve A and connect hose to air control valve A as shown in Fig. 9.
c. On 1987 Prelude, disconnect electrical connector from frequency solenoid valve A and connect
battery to valve terminals as shown in Fig.
10.
d. On 1988 Prelude, disconnect 2 pin connector from electronic air control valve and disconnect
hose from vacuum hose manifold, then cap
hose end. Disconnect vacuum hose from A/C idle boost throttle controller.
3. Disconnect air cleaner intake tube from air duct on radiator, if necessary, then insert tube of
propane kit into intake tube approximately 4 inches. Check propane bottle for adequate supply of
gas.
4. Press button on top of propane device with engine idling, then slowly open propane control valve
to obtain maximum speed. Open propane control valve slowly, a sudden burst of propane may stall
the engine. If engine speed does not increase as specified in chart, Fig. 11, proceed to step 5. If
engine speed increases as specified in chart, Fig. 11, proceed to step 8.
5. Remove concealment plug from carburetor, refer to ``Carburetor Section.'' Recheck maximum
propane enriched RPM. If speed is too low, turn mixture screw 1/4 turn clockwise and recheck. If
speed is too high, turn mixture screw 1/4 turn counterclockwise and recheck.
6. Except on 1988 Prelude, close propane control valve and run engine at 2500 RPM for 10
seconds, and on 1986 Accord with automatic transmission reconnect all vacuum hoses, then
recheck idle speed. If idle speed is correct, proceed to step 8. If idle speed is not correct, proceed
to step 7.
7. On 1988 Prelude, reconnect connector and hose and close propane control valve, then remove
EFI/ECU fuse for 10 seconds to reset control unit and recheck idle speed. If idle speed is correct,
proceed to step 9. If idle speed is not correct, proceed to step 8.
8. Recheck idle speed and adjust by turning idle stop screw, then repeat propane adjustment
procedure.
9. Remove propane kit, then return all components to original position and reconnect necessary
wiring and hoses.
10. On 1988 Prelude equipped with A/C, check idle speed with A/C on. If idle speed is not 700-800
RPM, adjust by turning adjusting screw.
1985-87 ALL:
Disconnect and plug vacuum hose at idle controller. Set speed to specified value. Turn AC on and
verify the speed-up speed is at specification. Check fast idle with engine cold.
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove CLOCK fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
ACCORD: 1990
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove BACK-UP fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove HAZARD fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove CLOCK fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Adjustments > Equipment Hookup & Adjustment Procedures > Page 1050
On fuel injected engines, fast idle speed is controlled by the fast idle valve and no adjustment is
provided. Adjust fast idle speed on carbureted engines using the following procedures.
1. Start engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature, then stop engine and connect
suitable tachometer.
2. Remove E-clip and flat washer from thermowax linkage, then slide out linkage until its tab is
clear of the fast idle cam, Fig. 4. Use care not to bend linkage or fast idle speed will be changed.
3. Hold throttle open and turn fast idle cam counterclockwise until fast idle lever is aligned as
shown in Fig. 5.
4. Start engine without opening the throttle, then check idle speed.
5. If fast idle speed is not within specifications, adjust by turning fast idle screw, Fig. 6.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Adjustments > Equipment Hookup & Adjustment Procedures > Page 1053
1. Start engine and warm to normal operating temperature, then turn engine off.
2. Disconnect both coolant hoses from thermowax valve and cap end of hoses.
5. Adjust idle speed, if necessary, by turning fast idle adjusting screw, Fig. 7.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
2. Loosen the 6 mm service bolt on top of the fuel filter one complete turn, while holding the special
banjo bolt using a suitable wrench. Place a suitable towel over the 6 mm bolt before relieving fuel
pressure.
3. Replace washer between service bolt and banjo bolt whenever service bolt is loosened.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing
Order > Component Information > Specifications
Firing Order: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Timing > Number One Cylinder > Component Information > Locations
Firing Order: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Timing > Timing Marks and Indicators > System Information > Locations
1. Inspect distributor cap for cracks or damaged terminals and carbon tracking. Replace as
needed.
2. Inspect rotor for cracks or roughened surfaces. Scrape off carbon deposits and smooth rotor
terminal with an oil stone or sand paper. Replace rotor if insulator contacts are burned.
3. Check ignition wires for corrosion, cracks or burned insulation, then measure ignition wire
resistance using an ohmmeter. Replace wires if they are damaged or if resistance exceeds 25,000
ohms.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Vacuum Advance Diaphragm <--> [Distributor Advance Unit] > Component Information >
Specifications
2. Apply vacuum greater than 20 inches Hg to diaphragm top port and ensure stator turns
counterclockwise and stays. If stator does not turn or stay, replace diaphragm.
3. Release vacuum and ensure stator returns. If stator does not return, replace diaphragm.
1. Inspect distributor cap for cracks or damaged terminals and carbon tracking. Replace as
needed.
2. Inspect rotor for cracks or roughened surfaces. Scrape off carbon deposits and smooth rotor
terminal with an oil stone or sand paper. Replace rotor if insulator contacts are burned.
3. Check ignition wires for corrosion, cracks or burned insulation, then measure ignition wire
resistance using an ohmmeter. Replace wires if they are damaged or if resistance exceeds 25,000
ohms.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Gap
A little coolant leakage from the water pump weep hole doesn't necessarily mean the pump seal is
shot. The weep hole is just doing its job of keeping the coolant away from the water pump bearing.
As long as there's no measurable coolant loss, the pump is still good.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 1094
NOTE: When refilling cooling system, loosen bleed bolt on heater valve or water outlet, as
equipped, and allow coolant to flow out until stream is free from bubbles.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Coolant: Capacity Specifications
HONDA
AT 7.0 7.5
Si 5.5 6.0
AT 6.0 6.5
HF 5.0 5.5
AT 7.5 8.0
HF 4.5 5.0
AT 7.0 7.5
Si 7.0 7.5
AT 6.5 7.0
AT 7.5 8.0
Concentration Minimum 50 %
Maximum 60 %
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Locations
I/P Components.
Circuit Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1109
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1110
Ground Distribution Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1111
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1113
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1114
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1115
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1118
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1119
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1120
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1121
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1122
Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1123
Troubleshooting Precautions
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1124
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1125
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1126
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1127
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1128
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1129
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1131
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1132
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1133
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1135
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Engine cooling fan operation is controlled by a fan relay, thermo sensor and the A/C clutch switch,
if equipped. Battery voltage is applied to the relay switching circuit through the ignition switch on
Accord models or from the main power fuse on Prelude models, and voltage is applied to the
cooling fan through the relay switching circuit. Voltage is applied to the relay control coil circuit
through the ignition switch and the coil ground path is completed either through the thermo sensor
or through the A/C compressor clutch switch. When the engine is running and the relay control coil
ground circuit is completed, voltage is applied to the cooling fan motor and the fan operates. During
normal operation, the thermo sensor contacts close when coolant temperature is above 190°F, and
voltage is applied to the cooling fan motor. When coolant temperature is below 190°F the thermo
sensor contacts are open and the cooling fan does not operate. However, when the A/C clutch is
energized the fan relay coil circuit is completed to ground through the A/C switch and the cooling
fan operates regardless of coolant temperature.
Cooling fan operation is controlled by the fan timer module which monitors signals from a thermo
sensor, underhood temperature sensor and the A/C compressor clutch. The timer operates the
cooling fan by controlling voltage applied to the fan relay control coil. Battery voltage is applied
directly from the main fuse to the relay switch circuit and timer bypass circuit, and voltage is applied
to the timer main circuits through the ignition switch start and run contacts. The timer module
controls voltage applied to the relay control coil circuit, and the control coil circuit is completed to
ground either through the thermo sensor or timing module. When current flows through the relay
coil circuit, the relay contacts close and voltage is applied to the cooling fan motor. During normal
operation, voltage is applied to the relay coil by the timer module and fan operation is controlled by
the thermo sensor. When coolant temperature is above 190°F, current flows through the relay coil
circuit and voltage is applied to the fan motor. When coolant temperature is below 190° F, the
thermo sensor contacts are open and the cooling fan does not operate. However, when the A/C is
turned on, the timer energizes the relay coil and the cooling fan operates as long as the clutch
remains energized. When the engine is turned off, the timer module remains energized and
monitors signals from the underhood temperature sensor. If underhood temperature exceeds
122°F, the timer activates the fan relay and the cooling fan is energized. The cooling fan will
operate for a maximum of 15 minutes after the engine has stopped or until underhood temperature
drops below 122°F.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1142
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Testing and Inspection
SYSTEM TEST
Carbureted Engine
2. Monitor coolant temperature using suitable thermometer and observe cooling fan operation.
3. Cooling fan should begin to operate when coolant temperature reaches 191-197°F, and fan
should stop running when coolant temperature drops to 182-188°F.
a. Stop engine, disconnect electrical connector to thermo sensor, connect suitable jumper between
connector terminals, then turn on ignition
switch.
b. If fan operates, replace thermo sensor and recheck system operation. c. If fan fails to operate,
check for blown fuse, defective relay, damaged or disconnected wiring or defective fan motor.
6. If cooling fan does not operate when compressor clutch is engaged, check for open circuit
between fan relay and A/C switch, defective switch or defective compressor clutch diode.
2. Monitor coolant temperature using suitable thermometer and observe cooling fan operation.
3. Cooling fan should begin to operate when coolant temperature reaches 191-197°F, and fan
should stop running when coolant temperature drops to 182-188°F.
4. On models with A/C, place control in maximum cooling position. Cooling fan should run
whenever A/C compressor clutch is engaged.
5. Using suitable gauge to monitor underhood temperature, stop engine and listen for cooling fan
operation.
6. With engine stopped and underhood temperature above 122°F, cooling fan should run for a
maximum of 15 minutes or until temperature drops below 118-122°F.
7. If system fails to operate as outlined, inspect fan circuit for blown fuses, loose connections and
damaged wiring, and repair as needed.
8. If fan circuit wiring is satisfactory, test components individually and replace as needed. If all other
components are satisfactory but system still does not perform as outlined, replace timer module
and recheck system operation. Do not attempt to perform resistance measurements between
module terminals as timer module may be damaged.
COMPONENT TESTING
Fan Motor
2. Connect battery voltage across motor terminals using suitable jumper wires.
3. If fan fails to operate, motor is defective.
Fan Relay
4. Connect battery voltage across terminals 1 and 2, on 1987 models or C & D on 1988 models.
5. With relay energized, ohmmeter should indicate continuity between terminals 3 and 4.
Thermo sensor
5. Allow sensor to cool while observing meter. Meter should indicate no continuity as temperature
drops below 182-188°F.
Front Of Engine
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1166
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1167
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1168
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1171
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1172
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1173
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1174
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1175
Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1176
Troubleshooting Precautions
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1177
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1178
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1179
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1180
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1181
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1182
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1184
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1185
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1186
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1188
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Disconnect the RED wire from the sender. 2. With the engine cold, use an ohmmeter to measure
resistance between the positive terminal and the engine (ground). 3. Check the temperature of the
coolant. 4. Run the engine and measure the change in resistance with the engine at operating
temperature (cooling fan comes on).
5. If obtained readings are substantially different from specifications above, replace the gauge
sender.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Control Valve > Heater Control Valve
Cable > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air
Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows
Hot Air
NOTE:
This article applies to all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. Got a vehicle
in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C? The problem could just
be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm.
There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm.
Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose (P/N 95005-35008-10M, H/C 2325058),
and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off.
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Service and Repair
5. Disconnect electrical connectors from fuse block, then remove fuse block attaching screws and
lower fuse box.
7. Remove radio trim panel, then disconnect antenna lead and radio electrical connector.
13. Lower steering column, then remove instrument panel to cowl attaching bolts, Fig. 40.
14. Carefully lift and pull instrument panel away from cowl to disengage from center guide pin, then
disconnect speedometer cable and remove instrument panel. Support instrument panel during
removal from guide pin.
15. Remove heater duct, then remove lower heater housing mounting nut.
16. Remove steering column bracket and duct assembly, the disconnect electrical connector at
heater control.
17. Remove heater housing to cowl attaching bolts, then remove heater housing.
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18. Remove heater core cover from heater housing, Fig. 41.
19. Remove heater core tube clamp, then remove heater core from heater housing.
20. Reverse procedure to install. When installing instrument panel, ensure panel is properly
positioned on guide and that wiring harness are properly routed. Tighten instrument panel attaching
bolts alternately and evenly, ensuring instrument panel remains properly aligned. After refilling
cooling system, loosen engine cooling system bleed bolt located in upper radiator hose outlet. Start
engine. Tighten bleed bolt when cooling system trapped air has escaped and coolant begins to
flow.
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Coolant Temperature Gauge: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1209
Fuse Details Schematics
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1210
Ground Distribution Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1211
Symbol Identification
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1213
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1214
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1215
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1218
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1219
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1220
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1221
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1222
Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1223
Troubleshooting Precautions
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1224
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1225
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1226
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1227
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1228
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1229
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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Instructions > Page 1231
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Instructions > Page 1233
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Coolant Temperature Gauge <--> [Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1235
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF, then disconnect the RED wire from the coolant
temperature gauge sender and ground it with a jumper wire. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
Check that the pointer of the coolant temperature gauge starts moving toward "H" mark.
CAUTION: Turn the ignition switch OFF before the pointer reaches "H" mark on the gauge dial.
Failure to turn the ignition OFF quickly enough may cause damage to the gauge.
^ If the pointer of the gauge does not swing at all, check for:
Replace the coolant temperature gauge if the fuse and wiring are normal.
1. Remove the radiator cap, wet its seal with coolant, then install it on the pressure tester. 2. Apply
a pressure of 95-125 kPa (0.95 - 1.25 kg/cm2, 14 - 18 psi). 3. Check for a drop in pressure. 4. If the
pressure drops, replace the cap.
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Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Control Module: Locations
I/P Components.
Front Of Engine
Symbol Identification
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1270
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1271
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1272
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1275
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1276
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1277
Finding A Short Circuit
3. Connect a test lamp in place of the fuse.
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1278
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1279
Test Equipment
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1280
Troubleshooting Precautions
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Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1281
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1282
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1283
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1284
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sender <--> [Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1285
Meter Types
1. Use a digital or analog multimeter with a minimum 10k ohm resistance.
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1286
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker
The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a
period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of
the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closed until the
condition causing the high current is removed.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1288
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1289
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1290
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1292
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color
coded. Using a crimp tool, Fig. 13, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop. The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going
further, Fig. 14. Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the
proper nest.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
Fig. 22 Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals, Fig. 22. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't
apply. (Refer to Kent-Moore Terminal Repair Kit J 38125-A for further information.)
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Disconnect the RED wire from the sender. 2. With the engine cold, use an ohmmeter to measure
resistance between the positive terminal and the engine (ground). 3. Check the temperature of the
coolant. 4. Run the engine and measure the change in resistance with the engine at operating
temperature (cooling fan comes on).
5. If obtained readings are substantially different from specifications above, replace the gauge
sender.
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Coolant Temperature Gauge: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Temperature Gauge <-->
[Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1329
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF, then disconnect the RED wire from the coolant
temperature gauge sender and ground it with a jumper wire. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
Check that the pointer of the coolant temperature gauge starts moving toward "H" mark.
CAUTION: Turn the ignition switch OFF before the pointer reaches "H" mark on the gauge dial.
Failure to turn the ignition OFF quickly enough may cause damage to the gauge.
^ If the pointer of the gauge does not swing at all, check for:
Replace the coolant temperature gauge if the fuse and wiring are normal.
A little coolant leakage from the water pump weep hole doesn't necessarily mean the pump seal is
shot. The weep hole is just doing its job of keeping the coolant away from the water pump bearing.
As long as there's no measurable coolant loss, the pump is still good.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1340
NOTE: When refilling cooling system, loosen bleed bolt on heater valve or water outlet, as
equipped, and allow coolant to flow out until stream is free from bubbles.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Catalytic Converter: Description and Operation
The catalytic converter is designed convert harmful pollutants in the exhaust gasses into inert
gasses and water. The flow of hot exhaust gases activates the catalyst, causing it to promote
oxidation of the unburned pollutants. In addition, on some models fresh air is directed into the
converter under certain conditions to continue combustion of the exhaust gasses in order to
maintain the proper temperature for efficient conversion. A three-way catalytic converter is used on
all models with feedback carburetor controls and fuel injection, including Accord, Prelude Civic
1500, CRX Std., CRX Si and 1986-87 federal and high altitude CRX HF. This type of converter
converts hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and oxides of nitrogen (NOx)into carbon
dioxide (CO2), dinitrogen (N2) and water vapor. The precise fuel mixture control provided by the
feedback control or fuel injection system is necessary for the proper operation of this type of
catalyst. Use of this type of converter allows engine calibrations to be tailored for increased
performance. A two-way catalytic converter is used on Civic 1300, 1985 CRX HF and 1986-87
CRX HF California models. This type of converter converts hydrocarbons (HC) and carbon
monoxide (CO) into carbon dioxide (CO2) and water vapor. Precise calibration of spark advance
and the use of auxiliary air devices in the fuel system are necessary to provide proper emission
control with this type of converter.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component Information
> Specifications
Body Components.
Circuit testing may require the use of a system checker harness No. 07999-PD60000A, Fig. 23.
The main relay, located at the back of the fuse box, is a direct coupler type which contains relays
for the ECU power supply and fuel pump power supply, Figs. 20 and 21.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations
2. Remove fuel cut-off relay and check for continuity between No. 3 terminal and body ground.
Continuity should exist.
3. If there is no continuity, check black wire between fuel cut-off relay and ground No. G401.
4. Attach positive probe of voltmeter to No. 2 terminal and negative probe to No. 3 terminal, then
turn ignition switch to On position. Battery voltage should be available.
5. If there is no voltage, check black/yellow wire from ignition switch and fuel cut-off relay as well as
No. 12 fuse.
6. Turn ignition switch to Off position and attach positive probe of voltmeter to No. 4 terminal and
negative probe to No. 3 terminal, then turn ignition switch to On position. Battery voltage should be
available.
7. If there is no voltage, check blue wire from ignition coil and fuel cut-off relay.
8. Turn ignition switch to Off position and connect jumper wire between No. 1 terminal and No. 2
terminal.
10. If fuel pump does not run, remove left maintenance access cover in luggage area and
disconnect 2 pin connector, then attach positive probe of voltmeter to yellow/black terminal and
negative probe to body ground. Battery voltage should be available.
11. If there is battery voltage, check black wire between fuel pump and ground No. G401 and
replace fuel pump.
12. If battery voltage is not available, check yellow/black wire between fuel cut-off relay and fuel
pump.
13. If wires are satisfactory in steps 11 and 12, replace fuel cut-off relay and repeat test.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Description
and Operation
The main relay, located at the back of the fuse box, is a direct coupler type which contains relays
for the ECU power supply and fuel pump power supply, Figs. 20 and 21.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Igniter <--> [Ignition Control Module] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Igniter: Testing and Inspection
1. On models with Hitachi distributor, disconnect lead wires from igniter unit. On models with Toyo
Denso distributor, remove igniter cover and pull out igniter unit.
2. Check voltage between blue wire and ground, then between black/yellow wire and ground with
ignition switch in ON position, Fig. 1. Battery voltage should be present. On models with Toyo
Denso distributor, two blue wires are used. Be sure to perform voltage check on blue wire indicated
in Fig. 1.
3. If battery voltage is not present at either wire, trace circuit and repair as needed.
4. Measure resistance between green terminal and other blue terminal on pickup coil. If resistance
is not approximately 750 ohms at 70°F, replace pickup coil.
5. Check continuity between igniter unit terminals shown in Fig. 2, connecting ohmmeter leads in
both directions. Continuity should be present in one direction only.
6. If continuity is indicated in both directions or if continuity is not indicated in either direction, igniter
is defective.
7. Connect ohmmeter positive probe to blue terminal and negative probe to ground, then measure
resistance on igniter input. Resistance should be at least 50,000 ohms at 70°F.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Igniter <--> [Ignition Control Module] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page
1380
Fig. 3 Igniter Unit Distributor Terminal Identification.
Fig. 4 Igniter Unit Terminal Identification.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Igniter <--> [Ignition Control Module] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page
1381
1987 CIVIC & CRX W/FUEL INJECTED ENGINE & 1988 PRELUDE W/CARBURETED ENGINE
Toyo Denso Type
1. Remove distributor.
3. Check voltage between BLU1 terminal and body ground, then the BLK/YEL terminal and body
ground with ignition switch in On position, Fig. 3. There should be battery voltage.
4. Measure resistance between GRN and BLU2 terminals on pickup coil and replace pickup coil if
resistance is not 650---850 ohms at 70°F.
5. Check for continuity in both directions between A and B terminals on igniter output, Fig. 4. There
should be continuity in only one direction.
6. Connect ohmmeter positive probe to terminal D and negative probe to ground, then measure
resistance of igniter input. Resistance should be 450---550 ohms or greater at 70°F.
Hitachi Type
2. Disconnect wires from igniter unit and check voltage between blue wire and body ground, then
black/yellow wire and body ground, with ignition switch in On position. There should be battery
voltage.
3. With wires disconnected, check for continuity in both directions between terminals. There should
be continuity in only one direction.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications
Front Of Engine
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 1400
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The sensors and distributor are designed as a single assembly. The entire assembly consists of a
pair or rotors, TDC/CYL sensors, and a pickup for each rotor. The rotors are coupled to the
camshaft and turn together as a unit as the camshaft rotates. The CYL sensor detects position of
the No. 1 cylinder. The TDC sensor determines injection timing for each cylinder, and also monitors
engine speed to read out the basic discharge duration for different operating conditions.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
TDC/Crank Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair TDC/Crank Sensor
Fig. 41 Removing TDC & CRANK rotors
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
TDC/Crank Sensor > Page 1403
Fig. 42 Installing TDC & CRANK rotors
1988 Prelude
3. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 41, being careful not to
damage rotors.
6. Install TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 42, with part numbers facing up.
1988 Prelude
2. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up CYL rotor, being careful not to damage rotor.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
TDC/Crank Sensor > Page 1405
3. Pull CYL coil assembly and mount rubber out from sensor housing by removing screws.
4. Remove C-clip.
6. Separate coupling from shaft by removing roll pin, then remove rotor shaft.
7. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to sensor housing and install washers on rotor shaft, then
install shaft in sensor housing and install new C-clip.
8. Install coupling with index mark facing as shown, Fig. 43, then install pin and the pin retainer.
9. Install mount rubber, then the CYL coil assembly and the CYL rotor. Install rotor with part
number facing up and install roll pin so that it faces as shown, Fig. 44.
11. Install new O-ring on sensor housing, then slip sensor into position.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > EGR Valve Lift Sensor <--> [EGR Valve Position Sensor] > Component
Information > Locations
EGR Valve Lift Sensor: Locations
Fuel & Emission System (Part 1 Of 3).
On EGR Valve
1. Connect suitable system checker harness between ECU and wire harness coupler, then turn on
ignition.
2. Measure voltage between terminal C13 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12 (green/white ( - )) of
system checker harness.
3. If 1.0-1.4 volts are present, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and
components. If EGR still is not satisfactory, replace original ECU. If 1.0-1.4 volts are not present,
proceed to step 4.
4. Turn off ignition, then check for open or short circuit in terminals C12 and C13 between EGR
valve lift sensor and ECU.
5. If open or short is present, proceed to step 6. If open or short is not present, wire harness is
faulty.
6. Turn on ignition, then connect suitable hand vacuum pump to upper hose of the EGR valve.
7. While applying vacuum, measure voltage between terminal C8 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12
(green/white (-) of the system harness checker.
8. If voltage is not as specified in Fig. 66, replace EGR valve lift sensor. If voltage is as specified in
Fig. 66, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and components. If EGR is still not
satisfactory, replace original ECU.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Center Of Cowl
In Control Box
In Exhaust Manifold
In Control Box
The speed sensor, Figs. 75, 76 and 77, is essentially a photo interrupter and is mounted in the
speedometer. It is activated at a predetermined vehicle speed by a sealed plate rotating with the
speedometer shaft.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Emission Control Systems > EGR Valve Lift Sensor <--> [EGR Valve Position Sensor] > Component Information
> Locations
EGR Valve Lift Sensor: Locations
Fuel & Emission System (Part 1 Of 3).
On EGR Valve
1. Connect suitable system checker harness between ECU and wire harness coupler, then turn on
ignition.
2. Measure voltage between terminal C13 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12 (green/white ( - )) of
system checker harness.
3. If 1.0-1.4 volts are present, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and
components. If EGR still is not satisfactory, replace original ECU. If 1.0-1.4 volts are not present,
proceed to step 4.
4. Turn off ignition, then check for open or short circuit in terminals C12 and C13 between EGR
valve lift sensor and ECU.
5. If open or short is present, proceed to step 6. If open or short is not present, wire harness is
faulty.
6. Turn on ignition, then connect suitable hand vacuum pump to upper hose of the EGR valve.
7. While applying vacuum, measure voltage between terminal C8 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12
(green/white (-) of the system harness checker.
8. If voltage is not as specified in Fig. 66, replace EGR valve lift sensor. If voltage is as specified in
Fig. 66, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and components. If EGR is still not
satisfactory, replace original ECU.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
TDC/Crank Sensor - Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins TDC/Crank Sensor - Replacement
Prelude TDC/CRANK Sensor Replacement
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
1459
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The sensors and distributor are designed as a single assembly. The entire assembly consists of a
pair or rotors, TDC/CYL sensors, and a pickup for each rotor. The rotors are coupled to the
camshaft and turn together as a unit as the camshaft rotates. The CYL sensor detects position of
the No. 1 cylinder. The TDC sensor determines injection timing for each cylinder, and also monitors
engine speed to read out the basic discharge duration for different operating conditions.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > TDC/Crank
Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair TDC/Crank Sensor
Fig. 41 Removing TDC & CRANK rotors
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > TDC/Crank
Sensor > Page 1462
Fig. 42 Installing TDC & CRANK rotors
1988 Prelude
3. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 41, being careful not to
damage rotors.
6. Install TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 42, with part numbers facing up.
1988 Prelude
2. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up CYL rotor, being careful not to damage rotor.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > TDC/Crank
Sensor > Page 1464
3. Pull CYL coil assembly and mount rubber out from sensor housing by removing screws.
4. Remove C-clip.
6. Separate coupling from shaft by removing roll pin, then remove rotor shaft.
7. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to sensor housing and install washers on rotor shaft, then
install shaft in sensor housing and install new C-clip.
8. Install coupling with index mark facing as shown, Fig. 43, then install pin and the pin retainer.
9. Install mount rubber, then the CYL coil assembly and the CYL rotor. Install rotor with part
number facing up and install roll pin so that it faces as shown, Fig. 44.
11. Install new O-ring on sensor housing, then slip sensor into position.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 1470
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
6. On all models, position suitable tool into hole on lock cylinder housing and depress pin, then
remove lock cylinder from housing.
INSTALLATION
a. Place ignition lock cylinder in the LOCK position. b. Rotate key until it is almost at the ACC
position, then insert lock cylinder until pin contacts housing. c. Rotate key to ACC position, then
push pin in and insert lock cylinder into housing until pin clicks into place.
a. Place ingnition lock cylinder in the O position. b. Rotate key until it is almost at the I position,
then insert lock cylinder until pin contacts housing. c. Rotate key to I position, then push pin in and
insert lock cylinder into housing until pin clicks into place.
97-020
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts > Page 1476
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
3. Start engine, then measure fuel pressure with engine idling and vacuum hose of pressure
regulator disconnected. Pressure should be 33---39 psi for 1985---86 models or 36---41 psi on
1987---88 models.
4. If fuel pressure is not as specified, check fuel pump for proper operation. Repair or replace as
required.
5. If fuel pump is satisfactory and fuel pressure is higher than specified, proceed as follows:
a. Check for pinched or clogged fuel return hose or piping. b. Check for defective pressure
regulator.
6. If fuel pump is satisfactory and fuel pressure is lower than specified, proceed as follows:
a. Check for clogged fuel filter. b. Check for pinched or clogged fuel hose from fuel tank to fuel
pump. c. Check for defective pressure regulator. d. Check for leak in fuel line. e. Check for pinched,
broken or disconnected regulator vacuum hose.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air/Fuel Mixture >
System Information > Specifications
Note: Idle mixture cannot be adjusted on fuel injected engines. On carbureted engines, idle mixture
adjustment should only be performed after diagnosis has revealed no other faults, or if carburetor
has been overhauled. A propane enrichment tool is necessary to accurately adjust idle mixture.
See Adjustment section for procedure.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air/Fuel Mixture >
System Information > Specifications > Page 1482
Idle mixture cannot be adjusted on fuel injected engines. On carbureted engines, idle mixture
adjustment should only be performed after diagnosis has revealed no other faults, or if carburetor
has been overhauled. A propane enrichment tool is necessary to accurately adjust idle mixture.
1. Adjust idle speed to specifications as outlined under ``Curb Idle Speed, Adjust,'' and leave
vehicle prepared as outlined in adjustment procedure.
2. Perform the following to prepare vehicle for propane enrichment idle speed check:
a. On 1985-86 Prelude with automatic transaxle, remove frequency solenoid valve A and air control
valve A, then disconnect vacuum lines and
b. On 1986 Accord with automatic transaxle, disconnect and plug inside hose to idle boost throttle
controller, disconnect hose from frequency
solenoid valve A and connect hose to air control valve A as shown in Fig. 9.
c. On 1987 Prelude, disconnect electrical connector from frequency solenoid valve A and connect
battery to valve terminals as shown in Fig.
10.
d. On 1988 Prelude, disconnect 2 pin connector from electronic air control valve and disconnect
hose from vacuum hose manifold, then cap
hose end. Disconnect vacuum hose from A/C idle boost throttle controller.
3. Disconnect air cleaner intake tube from air duct on radiator, if necessary, then insert tube of
propane kit into intake tube approximately 4 inches. Check propane bottle for adequate supply of
gas.
4. Press button on top of propane device with engine idling, then slowly open propane control valve
to obtain maximum speed. Open propane control valve slowly, a sudden burst of propane may stall
the engine. If engine speed does not increase as specified in chart, Fig. 11, proceed to step 5. If
engine speed increases as specified in chart, Fig. 11, proceed to step 8.
5. Remove concealment plug from carburetor, refer to ``Carburetor Section.'' Recheck maximum
propane enriched RPM. If speed is too low, turn mixture screw 1/4 turn clockwise and recheck. If
speed is too high, turn mixture screw 1/4 turn counterclockwise and recheck.
6. Except on 1988 Prelude, close propane control valve and run engine at 2500 RPM for 10
seconds, and on 1986 Accord with automatic transmission reconnect all vacuum hoses, then
recheck idle speed. If idle speed is correct, proceed to step 8. If idle speed is not correct, proceed
to step 7.
7. On 1988 Prelude, reconnect connector and hose and close propane control valve, then remove
EFI/ECU fuse for 10 seconds to reset control unit and recheck idle speed. If idle speed is correct,
proceed to step 9. If idle speed is not correct, proceed to step 8.
8. Recheck idle speed and adjust by turning idle stop screw, then repeat propane adjustment
procedure.
9. Remove propane kit, then return all components to original position and reconnect necessary
wiring and hoses.
10. On 1988 Prelude equipped with A/C, check idle speed with A/C on. If idle speed is not 700-800
RPM, adjust by turning adjusting screw.
1985-87 ALL:
Disconnect and plug vacuum hose at idle controller. Set speed to specified value. Turn AC on and
verify the speed-up speed is at specification. Check fast idle with engine cold.
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove CLOCK fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
ACCORD: 1990
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove BACK-UP fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove HAZARD fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove CLOCK fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Adjustments > Equipment Hookup & Adjustment Procedures > Page 1492
On fuel injected engines, fast idle speed is controlled by the fast idle valve and no adjustment is
provided. Adjust fast idle speed on carbureted engines using the following procedures.
1. Start engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature, then stop engine and connect
suitable tachometer.
2. Remove E-clip and flat washer from thermowax linkage, then slide out linkage until its tab is
clear of the fast idle cam, Fig. 4. Use care not to bend linkage or fast idle speed will be changed.
3. Hold throttle open and turn fast idle cam counterclockwise until fast idle lever is aligned as
shown in Fig. 5.
4. Start engine without opening the throttle, then check idle speed.
5. If fast idle speed is not within specifications, adjust by turning fast idle screw, Fig. 6.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Adjustments > Equipment Hookup & Adjustment Procedures > Page 1495
1. Start engine and warm to normal operating temperature, then turn engine off.
2. Disconnect both coolant hoses from thermowax valve and cap end of hoses.
5. Adjust idle speed, if necessary, by turning fast idle adjusting screw, Fig. 7.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel
Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
2. Loosen the 6 mm service bolt on top of the fuel filter one complete turn, while holding the special
banjo bolt using a suitable wrench. Place a suitable towel over the 6 mm bolt before relieving fuel
pressure.
3. Replace washer between service bolt and banjo bolt whenever service bolt is loosened.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order >
Component Information > Specifications
Firing Order: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
Number One Cylinder > Component Information > Locations
Firing Order: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
Timing Marks and Indicators > System Information > Locations
1. Inspect distributor cap for cracks or damaged terminals and carbon tracking. Replace as
needed.
2. Inspect rotor for cracks or roughened surfaces. Scrape off carbon deposits and smooth rotor
terminal with an oil stone or sand paper. Replace rotor if insulator contacts are burned.
3. Check ignition wires for corrosion, cracks or burned insulation, then measure ignition wire
resistance using an ohmmeter. Replace wires if they are damaged or if resistance exceeds 25,000
ohms.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Vacuum Advance Diaphragm <--> [Distributor Advance Unit] > Component Information > Specifications
1986-87 CIVIC & CRX, 1986-88 ACCORD & 1988 PRELUDE W/CARBURETED ENGINE
2. Apply vacuum greater than 20 inches Hg to diaphragm top port and ensure stator turns
counterclockwise and stays. If stator does not turn or stay, replace diaphragm.
3. Release vacuum and ensure stator returns. If stator does not return, replace diaphragm.
1. Inspect distributor cap for cracks or damaged terminals and carbon tracking. Replace as
needed.
2. Inspect rotor for cracks or roughened surfaces. Scrape off carbon deposits and smooth rotor
terminal with an oil stone or sand paper. Replace rotor if insulator contacts are burned.
3. Check ignition wires for corrosion, cracks or burned insulation, then measure ignition wire
resistance using an ohmmeter. Replace wires if they are damaged or if resistance exceeds 25,000
ohms.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Spark Plug Gap
Spark Plug: Specifications Spark Plug Gap
Center Of Cowl
A higher engine speed is required to prevent erratic running when engine is warming up. When
engine is cold, the fast idle control solenoid valve opens to bypass additional air into the intake
manifold.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Emission Control Box <-->
[Central Electronics Box] > Component Information > Locations
Emission Control Box: Locations
RH Side Of Cowl
Front Of Engine
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1563
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The sensors and distributor are designed as a single assembly. The entire assembly consists of a
pair or rotors, TDC/CYL sensors, and a pickup for each rotor. The rotors are coupled to the
camshaft and turn together as a unit as the camshaft rotates. The CYL sensor detects position of
the No. 1 cylinder. The TDC sensor determines injection timing for each cylinder, and also monitors
engine speed to read out the basic discharge duration for different operating conditions.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > TDC/Crank Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair TDC/Crank Sensor
1988 Prelude
3. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 41, being careful not to
damage rotors.
6. Install TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 42, with part numbers facing up.
1988 Prelude
2. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up CYL rotor, being careful not to damage rotor.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > TDC/Crank Sensor > Page 1568
3. Pull CYL coil assembly and mount rubber out from sensor housing by removing screws.
4. Remove C-clip.
6. Separate coupling from shaft by removing roll pin, then remove rotor shaft.
7. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to sensor housing and install washers on rotor shaft, then
install shaft in sensor housing and install new C-clip.
8. Install coupling with index mark facing as shown, Fig. 43, then install pin and the pin retainer.
9. Install mount rubber, then the CYL coil assembly and the CYL rotor. Install rotor with part
number facing up and install roll pin so that it faces as shown, Fig. 44.
11. Install new O-ring on sensor housing, then slip sensor into position.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > EGR Valve Lift Sensor <-->
[EGR Valve Position Sensor] > Component Information > Locations
EGR Valve Lift Sensor: Locations
On EGR Valve
1. Connect suitable system checker harness between ECU and wire harness coupler, then turn on
ignition.
2. Measure voltage between terminal C13 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12 (green/white ( - )) of
system checker harness.
3. If 1.0-1.4 volts are present, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and
components. If EGR still is not satisfactory, replace original ECU. If 1.0-1.4 volts are not present,
proceed to step 4.
4. Turn off ignition, then check for open or short circuit in terminals C12 and C13 between EGR
valve lift sensor and ECU.
5. If open or short is present, proceed to step 6. If open or short is not present, wire harness is
faulty.
6. Turn on ignition, then connect suitable hand vacuum pump to upper hose of the EGR valve.
7. While applying vacuum, measure voltage between terminal C8 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12
(green/white (-) of the system harness checker.
8. If voltage is not as specified in Fig. 66, replace EGR valve lift sensor. If voltage is as specified in
Fig. 66, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and components. If EGR is still not
satisfactory, replace original ECU.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
Body Components.
Circuit testing may require the use of a system checker harness No. 07999-PD60000A, Fig. 23.
When the ECU senses a reduction in idle speed caused by increased engine load, the idle control
solenoid valve opens to allow additional air to bypass the throttle plate and enter the intake
manifold. Correct valve operation depends upon changes in the voltage at the FR terminal of the
alternator for quick response. This valve also lowers fast idle speed during engine warm-up. To
prevent erratic engine operation after engine first fires, the valve is opened during cranking and
immediately after starting to provide additional air into the intake manifold.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator -
Electronic > Component Information > Description and Operation > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve > Page 1584
Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Description and Operation Idle Control System
This system Fig. 2, used on vehicles with A/C, prevents idle speed from dropping when A/C
compressor is turned on. When compressor is on, manifold vacuum is introduced into the
diaphragm chamber of the idle boost controller through the A/C idle boost solenoid valve which is
activated by the compressor clutch switch. The idle controller diaphragm rod is retracted to open
the throttle valve a certain amount. The amount of this throttle valve opening is adjusted with the
idle control screw on the idle controller to maintain original idle speed. When the compressor is off,
the A/C idle boost solenoid valve is deactivated to close vacuum passage and the vacuum stored
in the controller is released through the filter on the solenoid valve.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Controller <--> [Idle
Speed/Throttle Actuator - Mechanical] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Throttle Controller: Testing and Inspection
Fig. 27 Troubleshooting Flow Chart. Testing A/C Idle Boost Solenoid Valve
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Controller <--> [Idle
Speed/Throttle Actuator - Mechanical] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1588
Fig. 27 Troubleshooting Flow Chart. Testing A/C Idle Boost Solenoid Valve
2. Check idle speed with headlights, heater blower, rear window defogger, cooling fan and A/C off.
Idle speed should be 750-850 RPM on manual transmission and 700-800 RPM on automatic
transmission in N or P.
3. If idle speed is within specifications, proceed to step 7.
4. If idle speed is not within specifications, disconnect vacuum hose from idle boost throttle
controller and check vacuum. There should be no vacuum.
5. If there is no vacuum, check throttle valve shaft for binding or sticking and replace idle boost
throttle controller.
7. If idle speed is within specifications in step 2, check idle speed with A/C on.
8. If idle speed is not 750-850 RPM on manual transmission, or not 700-800 RPM on automatic
transmission in N or P, disconnect vacuum hose from idle boost throttle controller and check for
vacuum. There should be vacuum.
9. If there is vacuum, check throttle valve shaft for binding or sticking and replace idle boost throttle
controller.
RH Side Of Cowl
A/C Idle Boost Throttle Controller: Description and Operation Fast Idle Mechanism
The air bypass valve is controlled by a thermowax plunger, Fig. 9. When the thermowax is cold, the
valve is open. When the thermowax is heated, the valve is closed. When the engine is cold the
valve allows additional air to bypass into the intake manifold so that engine idles faster than
normal. When engine reaches normal operating temperature, the valve begins to close, reducing
amount of air bypassing into the intake manifold.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > A/C Idle Boost Throttle
Controller <--> [Idle Up Control Valve] > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 1595
The air bypass valve is controlled by a thermowax plunger, Fig. 9. When the thermowax is cold, the
valve is open. When the thermowax is heated, the valve is closed. When the engine is cold the
valve allows additional air to bypass into the intake manifold so that engine idles faster than
normal. When engine reaches normal operating temperature, the valve begins to close, reducing
amount of air bypassing into the intake manifold.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel
System) > Component Information > Description and Operation
The Check Engine/PGM-FI warning lamp should be illuminated for approximately 2 seconds after
the ignition switch is placed in the ON position as a bulb check. After approximately 2 seconds, the
lamp should go OFF. If lamp remains ON, a problem in the Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI)
System is indicated and a code is stored in the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) memory. After
diagnosis and repair, the PGM-FI ECU memory can be cleared by disconnecting the battery
ground cable for approximately 10 seconds.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
In Control Box
Center Of Cowl
The primary slow mixture cut-off solenoid valve is provided to cut off the idle mixture passage
upstream of the bypass port to prevent engine from running on after the ignition switch is turned off.
This solenoid valve also functions to stop mixture flow from slow fuel system during vehicle
deceleration in order to save fuel consumption. When vehicle is decelerating, the control unit
identifies the condition and deactivates the solenoid valve to close the mixture passage. The
control unit receives signals from the TW sensor, MAP sensor, vacuum switch, speed sensor,
ignition coil, gear position switch and ignition switch
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Primary Slow Mixture Cut-Off
Solenoid Valve <--> [Mixture Control Solenoid - Slow Cut] > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page
1616
Fig. 29 Troubleshooting Flow Chart. Testing Primary Slow Mixture Cut-Off Valve
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Primary Slow Mixture Cut-Off
Solenoid Valve <--> [Mixture Control Solenoid - Slow Cut] > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page
1617
Fig. 29 Troubleshooting Flow Chart. Testing Primary Slow Mixture Cut-Off Valve
Refer to Fig. 29 for testing of primary slow mixture cut-off solenoid valve.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Heated Oxygen Sensor <-->
[Oxygen Sensor] > Component Information > Locations
Heated Oxygen Sensor: Locations
In Exhaust Manifold
Body Components.
Circuit testing may require the use of a system checker harness No. 07999-PD60000A, Fig. 23.
The main relay, located at the back of the fuse box, is a direct coupler type which contains relays
for the ECU power supply and fuel pump power supply, Figs. 20 and 21.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Specifications
Front Of Engine
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Page 1652
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The sensors and distributor are designed as a single assembly. The entire assembly consists of a
pair or rotors, TDC/CYL sensors, and a pickup for each rotor. The rotors are coupled to the
camshaft and turn together as a unit as the camshaft rotates. The CYL sensor detects position of
the No. 1 cylinder. The TDC sensor determines injection timing for each cylinder, and also monitors
engine speed to read out the basic discharge duration for different operating conditions.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
TDC/Crank Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair TDC/Crank Sensor
Fig. 41 Removing TDC & CRANK rotors
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
TDC/Crank Sensor > Page 1655
Fig. 42 Installing TDC & CRANK rotors
1988 Prelude
3. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 41, being careful not to
damage rotors.
6. Install TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 42, with part numbers facing up.
1988 Prelude
2. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up CYL rotor, being careful not to damage rotor.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
TDC/Crank Sensor > Page 1657
3. Pull CYL coil assembly and mount rubber out from sensor housing by removing screws.
4. Remove C-clip.
6. Separate coupling from shaft by removing roll pin, then remove rotor shaft.
7. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to sensor housing and install washers on rotor shaft, then
install shaft in sensor housing and install new C-clip.
8. Install coupling with index mark facing as shown, Fig. 43, then install pin and the pin retainer.
9. Install mount rubber, then the CYL coil assembly and the CYL rotor. Install rotor with part
number facing up and install roll pin so that it faces as shown, Fig. 44.
11. Install new O-ring on sensor housing, then slip sensor into position.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > EGR Valve Lift Sensor <--> [EGR Valve Position Sensor] > Component Information >
Locations
EGR Valve Lift Sensor: Locations
Fuel & Emission System (Part 1 Of 3).
On EGR Valve
1. Connect suitable system checker harness between ECU and wire harness coupler, then turn on
ignition.
2. Measure voltage between terminal C13 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12 (green/white ( - )) of
system checker harness.
3. If 1.0-1.4 volts are present, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and
components. If EGR still is not satisfactory, replace original ECU. If 1.0-1.4 volts are not present,
proceed to step 4.
4. Turn off ignition, then check for open or short circuit in terminals C12 and C13 between EGR
valve lift sensor and ECU.
5. If open or short is present, proceed to step 6. If open or short is not present, wire harness is
faulty.
6. Turn on ignition, then connect suitable hand vacuum pump to upper hose of the EGR valve.
7. While applying vacuum, measure voltage between terminal C8 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12
(green/white (-) of the system harness checker.
8. If voltage is not as specified in Fig. 66, replace EGR valve lift sensor. If voltage is as specified in
Fig. 66, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and components. If EGR is still not
satisfactory, replace original ECU.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Center Of Cowl
In Control Box
In Exhaust Manifold
In Control Box
The speed sensor, Figs. 75, 76 and 77, is essentially a photo interrupter and is mounted in the
speedometer. It is activated at a predetermined vehicle speed by a sealed plate rotating with the
speedometer shaft.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications
In Control Box
The speed sensor, Figs. 75, 76 and 77, is essentially a photo interrupter and is mounted in the
speedometer. It is activated at a predetermined vehicle speed by a sealed plate rotating with the
speedometer shaft.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Voltage Signal > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Voltage Signal: Description and Operation
1988 Prelude
1. Connect system checker harness between ECU and connector, Fig. 23.
2. Turn ignition switch to On position and measure voltage between B18 (+) terminal and A18 (-)
terminal.
4. If battery voltage is available, disconnect 2 pin connector on power steering oil pressure switch
and connect blue/red terminal to black terminal.
5. If battery voltage is not available, replace power steering oil pressure switch.
6. If battery voltage is available, repair open in blue/red wire between ECU terminal B18 and power
steering oil pressure switch or black wire between power steering oil pressure switch and ground
301.
7. If battery voltage was not available in step 3, start engine, turn steering wheel slowly and
measure voltage between B18 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal while steering wheel is turning.
8. If battery voltage is not available, disconnect B connector from engine compartment wiring
harness only, not the ECU.
9. If battery voltage is not available, substitute known good ECU and repeat test and, if battery
voltage is now available, replace original ECU.
10. If battery voltage is available reconnect B connector to engine compartment wiring harness and
disconnect 2 pin connector from power steering oil pressure switch.
11. If battery voltage is available, replace power steering oil pressure switch.
12. If battery voltage is not available, repair short in blue/red wire between ECU terminal B18 and
the power steering oil pressure switch.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Air Injection > Air Control Valve <-->
[Air Injection Vacuum Control Solenoid Valve] > Component Information > Locations > California
In Control Box
Center Of Cowl
The catalytic converter is designed convert harmful pollutants in the exhaust gasses into inert
gasses and water. The flow of hot exhaust gases activates the catalyst, causing it to promote
oxidation of the unburned pollutants. In addition, on some models fresh air is directed into the
converter under certain conditions to continue combustion of the exhaust gasses in order to
maintain the proper temperature for efficient conversion. A three-way catalytic converter is used on
all models with feedback carburetor controls and fuel injection, including Accord, Prelude Civic
1500, CRX Std., CRX Si and 1986-87 federal and high altitude CRX HF. This type of converter
converts hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and oxides of nitrogen (NOx)into carbon
dioxide (CO2), dinitrogen (N2) and water vapor. The precise fuel mixture control provided by the
feedback control or fuel injection system is necessary for the proper operation of this type of
catalyst. Use of this type of converter allows engine calibrations to be tailored for increased
performance. A two-way catalytic converter is used on Civic 1300, 1985 CRX HF and 1986-87
CRX HF California models. This type of converter converts hydrocarbons (HC) and carbon
monoxide (CO) into carbon dioxide (CO2) and water vapor. Precise calibration of spark advance
and the use of auxiliary air devices in the fuel system are necessary to provide proper emission
control with this type of converter.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Deceleration Valve > Component
Information > Description and Operation
The mixture control system is used on carbureted engines to provide additional air in the intake
stream during periods of high vacuum operation such as deceleration, and on some models, during
hot starting. The system includes an anti-afterburn valve and a group of valves and solenoids that
are used to control anti-afterburn valve operation. The anti-afterburn valve, Fig. 70, lets fresh air
into the intake manifold when manifold vacuum suddenly increases. The valve is sensitive only to
sudden increases in vacuum. The length of time it stays open is controlled by a diaphragm that
senses change in manifold vacuum. When manifold vacuum suddenly increases, the
diaphragm/valve unit is pulled downward. Air flow from the air chamber to the sensing chamber is
restricted by an orifice, creating a pressure differential on the diaphragm, which holds the valve
open. This unbalanced condition lasts for a few seconds until the pressure in both chambers is
equalized by air entering through the orifice, then the spring pushes the diaphragm up, closing the
valve. The anti-afterburn solenoid valve, used on Civic and Prelude is designed to cut off manifold
vacuum flow to the top portion of the anti-afterburn valve diaphragm. The anti-afterburn control
solenoid valve, used on 1985---86 Accord, is designed to control the operation of the anti-afterburn
valve by introducing manifold vacuum to the top of the anti-afterburn valve diaphragm. When the
anti-afterburn control solenoid valve opens, the anti-afterburn valve does not open because there is
no vacuum difference on both sides of the diaphragm. Depending upon application, the control
solenoid is activated to prevent anti-afterburn valve operation when the engine is cold, when the
engine is idling in neutral or par, when vehicle speed or engine RPM is below a certain value, and
during starting. Operation of the control solenoid is controlled by the emission system electronic
control unit. An air valve is used on Civic and CRX models . Manifold vacuum applied to the air
valve opens the air passage when manifold vacuum is above set vacuum of the control switch. The
air control solenoid valve, used on 1985-87 Civic 1300 and CRX HF, is designed to bleed manifold
vacuum to the atmosphere. When solenoid valve is open, it takes a higher level of vacuum to open
the control switch. The vacuum control valve is used on 1985-87 high altitude Civic 1300 and CRX
HF and Civic 1500 exc. Calif. with manual transmission. When engine coolant temperature
exceeds the set temperature of thermovalve D and manifold vacuum suddenly increases, the
diaphragm valve is opened, which allows manifold vacuum into the air valve.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Deceleration Valve > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 1727
Deceleration Valve: Testing and Inspection
1. Test 10 or 15 mph speed sensor as outlined under ``Speed Sensor, Test'' procedure.
a. Ensure that engine is sufficiently cold by disconnecting hose No. 19 at charcoal canister. There
must be no vacuum at idle. b. Disconnect connector at control unit. c. Check for resistance
between blue/yellow and brown/black terminal on 1985-87 models. Resistance should be above 1k
ohm. d. Run engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then check resistance again.
Resistance should be approximately 200 ohms. e. If resistance is not within specifications, replace
thermosensor and repeat test. f.
3. Turn ignition switch on and check for voltage at black/yellow wire at control unit connector. If
there is no voltage, check wiring.
4. Ensure brown/black wire shows continuity between control unit and suitable ground.
5. If no faults are found in steps 1 through 5, replace control unit and repeat test.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System > Bowl
Vent Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Bowl Vent Solenoid: Locations
Center Of Cowl
In Control Box
Front Of Engine
In Control Box
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Control Solenoid Valve <--> [EGR Control Solenoid] > Component Information > Locations > Page 1749
Applicable to: 1988 Prelude w/Carbureted Engine Exc. Calif. Models
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Control Solenoid Valve <--> [EGR Control Solenoid] > Component Information > Locations > Page 1750
EGR Control Solenoid Valve: Testing and Inspection
2. Disconnect number 10 vacuum hose from the vacuum hose manifold, then connect suitable
hand vacuum pump to the hose. Ensure there is air flow.
3. If air flow is not present, replace EGR control solenoid valve and retest.
4. Connect positive lead of a 12 volt battery to black/yellow terminal of number 2 control box and
the negative lead to the blue/red terminal on Accord or red terminal on Prelude.
5. Apply air pressure to the number 10 vacuum hose. Ensure there is no air flow.
2. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the EGR valve and connect a hand vacuum pump to EGR
valve.
3. Apply approximately 150 mm Hg (6 in. Hg) vacuum to EGR valve. Vacuum should remain steady
and engine should die. If this occurs the EGR valve is working properly. Remove hand vacuum
pump and reconnect the hose, test is complete.
4. If vacuum does not remain steady and the engine does not die, then replace EGR valve and
retest.
5. Should vacuum remain steady but the engine not die, then remove EGR valve and check for
blockage, also check manifold for blockage. Clean and replace as necessary and then repeat test.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve Lift Sensor <--> [EGR Valve Position Sensor] > Component Information > Locations
EGR Valve Lift Sensor: Locations
On EGR Valve
1. Connect suitable system checker harness between ECU and wire harness coupler, then turn on
ignition.
2. Measure voltage between terminal C13 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12 (green/white ( - )) of
system checker harness.
3. If 1.0-1.4 volts are present, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and
components. If EGR still is not satisfactory, replace original ECU. If 1.0-1.4 volts are not present,
proceed to step 4.
4. Turn off ignition, then check for open or short circuit in terminals C12 and C13 between EGR
valve lift sensor and ECU.
5. If open or short is present, proceed to step 6. If open or short is not present, wire harness is
faulty.
6. Turn on ignition, then connect suitable hand vacuum pump to upper hose of the EGR valve.
7. While applying vacuum, measure voltage between terminal C8 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12
(green/white (-) of the system harness checker.
8. If voltage is not as specified in Fig. 66, replace EGR valve lift sensor. If voltage is as specified in
Fig. 66, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and components. If EGR is still not
satisfactory, replace original ECU.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Positive Crankcase Ventilation: Description and Operation
Civic, CRX, Prelude & 1986-88 Accord During normal operation, blow-by gasses are evacuated
from the engine through a liquid/vapor separator mounted on the crankcase. Manifold vacuum is
applied to the liquid/vapor separator through a PCV valve. Ventilating air is drawn into the engine
through a separate filter in the air cleaner that is connected to the valve cover by a hose, Figs. 8
through 10. The air is drawn down into the crankcase through the oil return passages by manifold
vacuum, where it mixes with the blow-by gasses, and the blow-by gasses are drawn into the intake
stream and burned during the normal combustion process. During low vacuum, wide open throttle
operation air flow through the engine is reversed. Vacuum created in the air cleaner overcomes
manifold vacuum, and the blow-by gasses are drawn from the valve cover into the air cleaner.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 1764
Positive Crankcase Ventilation: Service and Repair
2. Disconnect PCV valve from breather chamber, then start engine and run at idle.
3. Place finger over PCV valve and listen for clicking noise. If there is no clicking noise, replace
PCV valve and repeat steps 1 through 3.
a. Ensure filter does not allow oil to drip or seep through. Replace filter as required. b. Ensure filter
is not clogged and covered with dust or dirt. Replace filter as required.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches - Emission
Control Systems > EGR Valve Lift Sensor <--> [EGR Valve Position Sensor] > Component Information > Locations
EGR Valve Lift Sensor: Locations
On EGR Valve
1. Connect suitable system checker harness between ECU and wire harness coupler, then turn on
ignition.
2. Measure voltage between terminal C13 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12 (green/white ( - )) of
system checker harness.
3. If 1.0-1.4 volts are present, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and
components. If EGR still is not satisfactory, replace original ECU. If 1.0-1.4 volts are not present,
proceed to step 4.
4. Turn off ignition, then check for open or short circuit in terminals C12 and C13 between EGR
valve lift sensor and ECU.
5. If open or short is present, proceed to step 6. If open or short is not present, wire harness is
faulty.
6. Turn on ignition, then connect suitable hand vacuum pump to upper hose of the EGR valve.
7. While applying vacuum, measure voltage between terminal C8 (red/blue (+)) and terminal C12
(green/white (-) of the system harness checker.
8. If voltage is not as specified in Fig. 66, replace EGR valve lift sensor. If voltage is as specified in
Fig. 66, substitute a known good ECU and retest EGR system and components. If EGR is still not
satisfactory, replace original ECU.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Thermostatic Air Cleaner >
Component Information > Locations
Thermostatic Air Cleaner: Locations
Center Of Cowl
97-020
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts > Page 1779
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
3. Start engine, then measure fuel pressure with engine idling and vacuum hose of pressure
regulator disconnected. Pressure should be 33---39 psi for 1985---86 models or 36---41 psi on
1987---88 models.
4. If fuel pressure is not as specified, check fuel pump for proper operation. Repair or replace as
required.
5. If fuel pump is satisfactory and fuel pressure is higher than specified, proceed as follows:
a. Check for pinched or clogged fuel return hose or piping. b. Check for defective pressure
regulator.
6. If fuel pump is satisfactory and fuel pressure is lower than specified, proceed as follows:
a. Check for clogged fuel filter. b. Check for pinched or clogged fuel hose from fuel tank to fuel
pump. c. Check for defective pressure regulator. d. Check for leak in fuel line. e. Check for pinched,
broken or disconnected regulator vacuum hose.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Release > System
Information > Service and Repair
2. Loosen the 6 mm service bolt on top of the fuel filter one complete turn, while holding the special
banjo bolt using a suitable wrench. Place a suitable towel over the 6 mm bolt before relieving fuel
pressure.
3. Replace washer between service bolt and banjo bolt whenever service bolt is loosened.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
1985-87 ALL:
Disconnect and plug vacuum hose at idle controller. Set speed to specified value. Turn AC on and
verify the speed-up speed is at specification. Check fast idle with engine cold.
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove CLOCK fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
ACCORD: 1990
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove BACK-UP fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove HAZARD fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
Electrically disconnect electronic air control valve (EACV). Adjust idle speed to specification.
Remove CLOCK fuse for 10 seconds to reset ECU. Verify that idle is at checking speed. Turn
headlights and AC on to check speed-up.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System Information >
Adjustments > Equipment Hookup & Adjustment Procedures > Page 1791
On fuel injected engines, fast idle speed is controlled by the fast idle valve and no adjustment is
provided. Adjust fast idle speed on carbureted engines using the following procedures.
1. Start engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature, then stop engine and connect
suitable tachometer.
2. Remove E-clip and flat washer from thermowax linkage, then slide out linkage until its tab is
clear of the fast idle cam, Fig. 4. Use care not to bend linkage or fast idle speed will be changed.
3. Hold throttle open and turn fast idle cam counterclockwise until fast idle lever is aligned as
shown in Fig. 5.
4. Start engine without opening the throttle, then check idle speed.
5. If fast idle speed is not within specifications, adjust by turning fast idle screw, Fig. 6.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System Information >
Adjustments > Equipment Hookup & Adjustment Procedures > Page 1794
1. Start engine and warm to normal operating temperature, then turn engine off.
2. Disconnect both coolant hoses from thermowax valve and cap end of hoses.
5. Adjust idle speed, if necessary, by turning fast idle adjusting screw, Fig. 7.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air/Fuel Mixture > System
Information > Specifications
Note: Idle mixture cannot be adjusted on fuel injected engines. On carbureted engines, idle mixture
adjustment should only be performed after diagnosis has revealed no other faults, or if carburetor
has been overhauled. A propane enrichment tool is necessary to accurately adjust idle mixture.
See Adjustment section for procedure.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air/Fuel Mixture > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1798
Idle mixture cannot be adjusted on fuel injected engines. On carbureted engines, idle mixture
adjustment should only be performed after diagnosis has revealed no other faults, or if carburetor
has been overhauled. A propane enrichment tool is necessary to accurately adjust idle mixture.
1. Adjust idle speed to specifications as outlined under ``Curb Idle Speed, Adjust,'' and leave
vehicle prepared as outlined in adjustment procedure.
2. Perform the following to prepare vehicle for propane enrichment idle speed check:
a. On 1985-86 Prelude with automatic transaxle, remove frequency solenoid valve A and air control
valve A, then disconnect vacuum lines and
b. On 1986 Accord with automatic transaxle, disconnect and plug inside hose to idle boost throttle
controller, disconnect hose from frequency
solenoid valve A and connect hose to air control valve A as shown in Fig. 9.
c. On 1987 Prelude, disconnect electrical connector from frequency solenoid valve A and connect
battery to valve terminals as shown in Fig.
10.
d. On 1988 Prelude, disconnect 2 pin connector from electronic air control valve and disconnect
hose from vacuum hose manifold, then cap
hose end. Disconnect vacuum hose from A/C idle boost throttle controller.
3. Disconnect air cleaner intake tube from air duct on radiator, if necessary, then insert tube of
propane kit into intake tube approximately 4 inches. Check propane bottle for adequate supply of
gas.
4. Press button on top of propane device with engine idling, then slowly open propane control valve
to obtain maximum speed. Open propane control valve slowly, a sudden burst of propane may stall
the engine. If engine speed does not increase as specified in chart, Fig. 11, proceed to step 5. If
engine speed increases as specified in chart, Fig. 11, proceed to step 8.
5. Remove concealment plug from carburetor, refer to ``Carburetor Section.'' Recheck maximum
propane enriched RPM. If speed is too low, turn mixture screw 1/4 turn clockwise and recheck. If
speed is too high, turn mixture screw 1/4 turn counterclockwise and recheck.
6. Except on 1988 Prelude, close propane control valve and run engine at 2500 RPM for 10
seconds, and on 1986 Accord with automatic transmission reconnect all vacuum hoses, then
recheck idle speed. If idle speed is correct, proceed to step 8. If idle speed is not correct, proceed
to step 7.
7. On 1988 Prelude, reconnect connector and hose and close propane control valve, then remove
EFI/ECU fuse for 10 seconds to reset control unit and recheck idle speed. If idle speed is correct,
proceed to step 9. If idle speed is not correct, proceed to step 8.
8. Recheck idle speed and adjust by turning idle stop screw, then repeat propane adjustment
procedure.
9. Remove propane kit, then return all components to original position and reconnect necessary
wiring and hoses.
10. On 1988 Prelude equipped with A/C, check idle speed with A/C on. If idle speed is not 700-800
RPM, adjust by turning adjusting screw.
PROBLEM
If you push the accelerator pedal to the floor, the underside of the pedal contacts a stopper. This
stopper is welded to the floorboard and is covered by padding and carpet. If the pedal is pushed
extremely hard against the floor, in the worst case, the stopper may bend and hold the pedal in the
full throttle position.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Remove the 2 forward screws from the left side-sill garnish. Then carefully lift the garnish and
unhook the carpet from the flange.
5. Roll the carpet and floor pads back to expose the throttle stopper bracket.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 89021 > Jun > 89 > Recall - Bent Throttle Stopper > Page 1810
6. From the bottom of the throttle stopper support, push the 6 mm hex nut into the hole until it
bottoms.
7. Put the throttle stopper support in place and bend the bracket so it fits snugly against the
support.
8. Install the special 6mm screw and tighten the 6 mm hex nut to 10 N-m (1 kg-m, 7 lb.ft.).
9. Roll the floor pads and the carpet back into position.
10. Si model only: Install the foot rest mounting bolts loosely.
12. Attach the lower mounting clip to the cover and then guide the tip of the clip through the carpet
and into the mounting hole.
16. With the engine OFF, check the throttle pedal stroke by depressing the throttle fully and
releasing several times.
17. Center punch a recall completion mark above the "M" of the VIN on the firewall.
PARTS INFORMATION
(1)
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of the affected vehicles will be notified of this campaign by mail. Owners will be asked to
contact their nearest Honda dealer for the installation of the accelerator pedal bracket support.
Accelerator Pedal: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall - Bent Throttle Stopper
PROBLEM
If you push the accelerator pedal to the floor, the underside of the pedal contacts a stopper. This
stopper is welded to the floorboard and is covered by padding and carpet. If the pedal is pushed
extremely hard against the floor, in the worst case, the stopper may bend and hold the pedal in the
full throttle position.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Remove the 2 forward screws from the left side-sill garnish. Then carefully lift the garnish and
unhook the carpet from the flange.
5. Roll the carpet and floor pads back to expose the throttle stopper bracket.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 89021 > Jun > 89 > Recall - Bent Throttle
Stopper > Page 1821
6. From the bottom of the throttle stopper support, push the 6 mm hex nut into the hole until it
bottoms.
7. Put the throttle stopper support in place and bend the bracket so it fits snugly against the
support.
8. Install the special 6mm screw and tighten the 6 mm hex nut to 10 N-m (1 kg-m, 7 lb.ft.).
9. Roll the floor pads and the carpet back into position.
10. Si model only: Install the foot rest mounting bolts loosely.
12. Attach the lower mounting clip to the cover and then guide the tip of the clip through the carpet
and into the mounting hole.
16. With the engine OFF, check the throttle pedal stroke by depressing the throttle fully and
releasing several times.
17. Center punch a recall completion mark above the "M" of the VIN on the firewall.
PARTS INFORMATION
(1)
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of the affected vehicles will be notified of this campaign by mail. Owners will be asked to
contact their nearest Honda dealer for the installation of the accelerator pedal bracket support.
When a car comes in with bad A/C odor, the evaporator must be cleaned. Remove the evaporator
assembly and disassemble it. Wash the case halves, the evaporator, and the foam insulators in
mild dish soap and water. If the odor was real bad, the foam insulators should be replaced. Don't
use bleach or any other type of cleaner/disinfectant; they'll attack the surface coating on the
evaporator and make things worse in the long run.
Let the parts dry thoroughly before you reassemble them. Remove any debris from the blower,
fresh air intake, and the cowl area.
Remind the customer: interior deodorizers, perfumes, cigarette smoke generally make A/C odor
worse. The key is keeping the evaporator as dry as possible. Use RECIRC when the outside air is
humid; FRESH when the outside air is dry. Use the button to turn the A/C off the last few blocks
before you reach your destination, but leave the blower on. If necessary, you can use the different
ventilation modes to redirect the air to where it's not noticeable.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Altitude Compensator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Altitude Compensator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Altitude Compensator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1841
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Altitude Compensator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1842
Ground Distribution Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Altitude Compensator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1843
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Altitude Compensator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1845
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Altitude Compensator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1846
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Altitude Compensator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1847
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1852
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1853
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1854
Test Equipment
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1855
Troubleshooting Precautions
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1856
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1857
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Altitude Compensator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1858
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Altitude Compensator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1859
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1860
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
The air jet controller, Fig. 6, is an atmospheric pressure sensing device which controls the amount
of air flow into the slow and main air jets of the primary carburetor float, and the slow air jet of the
secondary carburetor throat. As atmospheric pressure is reduced by increasing altitude, the
bellows expand to open the valve in the air jet controller, increasing air flow to the jets to maintain
optimum air fuel ratio.
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Component Information > Description and Operation > Air Jet Controller > Page 1875
Altitude Compensator: Description and Operation Slow Air Jet Control System
To maintain optimum air fuel ratio, the main air jet control system, Fig. 3, controls air flow into main
jets of the carburetor throats. When vehicle is being started, or running in the power mode, the
control unit energizes the air leak solenoid valve in the air cleaner to close the extra air passage,
increasing fuel flow.
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Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 1876
A higher engine speed is required to prevent erratic running when engine is warming up. When
engine is cold, the fast idle control solenoid valve opens to bypass additional air into the intake
manifold.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Carburetor > Bowl Vent Solenoid
> Component Information > Locations
Bowl Vent Solenoid: Locations
Center Of Cowl
Carburetor Assembly
2. While holding the carburetor approx. 30° from vertical measure float level as shown.
Expected result:
Carburetor Solenoid: Description and Operation Main Air Jet Control System
This system, used on Prelude, Fig. 82, controls air flow into the main air jets of the carburetor
throats in order to maintain optimum air/fuel ratio. When vehicle is being started, or running in the
power mode, the control unit energizes the main air jet solenoid valve in the air cleaner to close the
extra air passage, increasing fuel flow.
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> Component Information > Description and Operation > Main Air Jet Control System > Page 1893
Carburetor Solenoid: Description and Operation Primary Main & Slow Air Jet Control System
This system used on 1985-86 CRX 1500 HF federal models, Fig. 83, is designed to control air flow
volume into the main and slow air jets of the carburetor depending on driving conditions and
maintains optimum air/fuel ratio for achieving good fuel economy. When the solenoid valves are
activated by the control unit, the primary slow and main air cut off solenoid valves supply additional
air to each air passage of the carburetor allowing fuel/air mixture to lean.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Carburetor > Carburetor Solenoid
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Air Jet Control System
Carburetor Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Main Air Jet Control System
2. Disconnect hose from main air jet solenoid valve, then install a suitable hand vacuum pump to
the solenoid valve.
3. Start engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature, then draw vacuum at idle.
4. If vacuum is not present, proceed to step 6. If vacuum is present, check for voltage at main air jet
solenoid valve.
5. If voltage is present, refer to Troubleshooting. If voltage is not present, replace solenoid valve
and repeat test.
6. Disconnect vacuum hose No. 2 from control box No. 1, then draw vacuum at idle. Vacuum
should remain steady.
7. If vacuum remains steady, test is complete. If vacuum is not present, check for voltage at main
air jet solenoid valve.
8. If voltage is not present, refer to Troubleshooting. If voltage is present, replace solenoid valve
and repeat test.
Troubleshooting
2. Test 10 or 15 mph speed sensor as outlined under ``Speed Sensor, Test'' procedure.
3. Turn ignition switch on and check for voltage at black/yellow wire at control unit connector. If
there is no voltage, check wiring.
4. Check black or brown/black wire for continuity between control unit and suitable ground. There
should be continuity.
5. Check air intake temperature sensors for proper operation. Replace as required.
Place car on a chassis dynamometer or if none is available, route a suitable voltmeter wire from
control box No. 2 to the vehicle interior while performing test drive.
1. Connect voltmeter positive probe to the green/white wire of the primary air cut-off solenoid
valves and negative probe to ground.
2. Start engine and allow to reach normal operating temperature. Voltage should be present while
cruising vehicle at a constant 30 mph in 3rd gear.
3. If voltage is present at 30 mph in 3rd gear, proceed to step 4. If no voltage is present at 30 mph
in 3rd gear and/or voltage is not present on acceleration, in 1st or 2nd gear, or above 3000 RPM,
proceed as follows:
a. Inspect vacuum switches, clutch switch, speed pulser and thermosensor B for proper operation.
b. Inspect speed sensor for proper operation, refer to ``Speed Sensor, Test'' procedure. c. Check
voltage at blue wire of control unit connector with ignition switch in the ``On'' position. If no voltage
is present, check blue wire
d. Check voltage at black/yellow wire of control unit connector with ignition switch in the ``On''
position. If voltage is not present, check fuse
and wiring.
e. Check black wire for continuity between control unit and ground. Continuity should be present.
5. Disconnect hose No. 2 and 5 from control box No. 2 at the vacuum hose manifolds, then connect
a suitable hand vacuum pump to each hose and draw vacuum.
6. If vacuum is present, proceed to step 7. If vacuum is not present at hose No. 2, replace primary
slow air cut off solenoid valve. If vacuum is not present at hose No. 5, replace primary main air cut
off solenoid valve.
7. Apply battery voltage to the primary air cut off solenoid valves. Vacuum should disappear.
8. If vacuum disappears from both hoses, test is complete. If vacuum does not disappear from
hose No. 2, replace the primary slow air cut off solenoid valve. If vacuum does not disappear from
hose No. 5, replace primary main air cut off solenoid valve.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Carburetor > Carburetor Solenoid
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Main Air Jet Control System > Page 1897
Carburetor Solenoid: Testing and Inspection Cranking Leak Solenoid Valve
Cold Engine Engine coolant temperature should be below 59°F when performing this test.
1. Disconnect No. 26 vacuum hose from choke opener and connect vacuum pump.
4. Start engine and disconnect No. 18 vacuum hose from choke opener, then connect a vacuum
pump. It should not hold vacuum.
5. If vacuum is held, check No. 18 vacuum hose for proper connection, cracks, blockage, or
disconnected hose and, if hose is satisfactory, replace thermovalve and repeat test.
Hot Engine
2. Disconnect No. 18 vacuum hose from choke opener and connect a vacuum pump. It should hold
vacuum.
3. If vacuum is not held, check No. 18 vacuum hose for proper connection, cracks, blockage or
disconnected hose and, if hose is satisfactory, replace thermovalve and repeat test.
3. Vacuum should stabilize at 4-8 inches Hg and it should pull the opener rod. If not, check linkage
for signs of mechanical binding and replace left carburetor.
4. Cap end of No. 18 vacuum hose and apply vacuum. It should pull opener rod. If not, replace left
carburetor.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Carburetor > Carburetor Valve >
Component Information > Locations
Carburetor Valve: Locations
Center Of Cowl
In Control Box
The power valve system, Fig. 5, provides supplementary fuel into primary main fuel passage when
vehicle is run in power mode.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Carburetor > Power Valve,
Carburetor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Power Valve System > Page 1914
This system, Fig. 4, operates when the engine is operating under heavy load. The system consists
of a vacuum piston control valve, vacuum piston control solenoid valve, check valve C and control
unit. The vacuum piston control solenoid valve is activated by the electric current of the control unit
which receives the signals of intake manifold vacuum (MAP sensor) and engine speed (ignition
coil), and intake manifold vacuum is led to the diaphragm of vacuum piston control valve through
check valve C so as to open the passage from vacuum piston upper chamber to atmosphere. The
vacuum piston is lowered by its own weight and the force of the return spring.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Carburetor > Power Valve,
Carburetor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Power Valve System
The power valve provides supplementary fuel into primary main fuel passage when vehicle is run in
power mode.
a. Disconnect No. 14 vacuum hose from vacuum hose manifold and connect a vacuum pump, Fig.
21, then apply vacuum. b. If vacuum is not held, replace diaphragm and repeat test. c. If vacuum is
held, start engine and disconnect No. 14 vacuum hose from vacuum hose manifold and connect
vacuum pump. d. If there is no vacuum, check vacuum hose for proper connection, cracks,
blockage or disconnected hose, then replace air bleed valve B if
necessary.
3. Disconnect No. 14 vacuum hose from vacuum hose manifold and connect vacuum pump.
4. If there is vacuum, check vacuum hose for proper connection, cracks, blockage or disconnected
hose, then replace air bleed valve B if necessary.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Carburetor > Power Valve,
Carburetor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Power Valve System > Page 1917
Power Valve: Testing and Inspection Vacuum Piston Control Solenoid Valve
Fig. 30 Troubleshooting Flow Chart. Testing Vacuum Piston Control Solenoid Valve
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Carburetor > Power Valve,
Carburetor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Power Valve System > Page 1918
Fig. 30 Troubleshooting Flow Chart. Testing Vacuum Piston Control Solenoid Valve
1. Disconnect vacuum hose from carburetor, connect vacuum pump to hose and apply vacuum.
Vacuum should hold.
2. If vacuum is not held, check vacuum hose for proper connection, cracks, blockage or
disconnected hose and replace vacuum piston control valve.
3. Start engine and warm to normal operating temperature, then check for vacuum.
4. If vacuum is held, check vacuum hose for proper connection, cracks, blockage or disconnected
hose and proceed to step 5. If vacuum is not held, proceed to step 8.
5. Disconnect No. 28 vacuum hose from air cleaner and connect vacuum pump. There should be
vacuum.
8. If vacuum did not hold in step 4, disconnect No. 28 vacuum hose from the air cleaner and
connect vacuum pump, then raise engine speed to 3000 RPM and close throttle suddenly, then
check vacuum. There should be no vacuum for a moment.
Center Of Cowl
2. Loosen the 6 mm service bolt on top of the fuel filter one complete turn, while holding the special
banjo bolt using a suitable wrench. Place a suitable towel over the 6 mm bolt before relieving fuel
pressure.
3. Replace washer between service bolt and banjo bolt whenever service bolt is loosened.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Fuel Injector
Resistor > Component Information > Description and Operation
Fuel Injector Resistor: Description and Operation
The injector timing, which controls the opening and closing intervals, must be accurate since it
determines air/fuel mixture ratio. For ideal injector response, it is necessary to shorten current rise
time when voltage is applied to the injector coil. Therefore, the number of windings in the injector
coil is reduced to reduce inductance in the coil. This lowers coil resistance, allowing a large amount
of current to flow through the coil. As a result, the amount of heat generated is high, which
decreases durability of the coil. Flow of current in the coil is restricted by a resistor installed in
series between the electrical power source and the injector coil.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Fuel Injector
Resistor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 1930
2. Check resistance between resistor terminal A (power terminal) and terminals B, C, D and E,
Figs. 30 through 32. Resistance should be 5---7 ohms.
3. Disconnect vacuum hose and fuel return hose from the regulator.
5. Reverse procedure to install. Torque attaching nuts to 9 ft. lbs on 1988 Prelude, or to 7 ft. lbs. on
other models.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts
Fuel Pressure: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement
Parts
97-020
New Gauge
The fuel pressure gauge with 10" hose (T/N 07406-0040001) has been discontinued. The gauge
that replaces it (T/N 07406-004000A) has an easier-to-read face, a protective boot around the
gauge housing, and a 48" hose.
Replacement Parts
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - New Fuel Pressure Gauge and Replacement Parts > Page 1941
The replacement hose for the old gauge (24", T/N 07406-004020A) has also been discontinued. If
you need a replacement hose, order the new 48" hose (T/N 07406-004020B). The new hose
comes with an adapter so you can use it with the old fuel pressure gauge (T/N 07406-0040001).
Before connecting the hose to the vehicle, make sure the aluminum washer on the end of the hose
seals properly. If the aluminum washer doesn't seal, replace the washer.
3. Start engine, then measure fuel pressure with engine idling and vacuum hose of pressure
regulator disconnected. Pressure should be 33---39 psi for 1985---86 models or 36---41 psi on
1987---88 models.
4. If fuel pressure is not as specified, check fuel pump for proper operation. Repair or replace as
required.
5. If fuel pump is satisfactory and fuel pressure is higher than specified, proceed as follows:
a. Check for pinched or clogged fuel return hose or piping. b. Check for defective pressure
regulator.
6. If fuel pump is satisfactory and fuel pressure is lower than specified, proceed as follows:
a. Check for clogged fuel filter. b. Check for pinched or clogged fuel hose from fuel tank to fuel
pump. c. Check for defective pressure regulator. d. Check for leak in fuel line. e. Check for pinched,
broken or disconnected regulator vacuum hose.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations
2. Remove fuel cut-off relay and check for continuity between No. 3 terminal and body ground.
Continuity should exist.
3. If there is no continuity, check black wire between fuel cut-off relay and ground No. G401.
4. Attach positive probe of voltmeter to No. 2 terminal and negative probe to No. 3 terminal, then
turn ignition switch to On position. Battery voltage should be available.
5. If there is no voltage, check black/yellow wire from ignition switch and fuel cut-off relay as well as
No. 12 fuse.
6. Turn ignition switch to Off position and attach positive probe of voltmeter to No. 4 terminal and
negative probe to No. 3 terminal, then turn ignition switch to On position. Battery voltage should be
available.
7. If there is no voltage, check blue wire from ignition coil and fuel cut-off relay.
8. Turn ignition switch to Off position and connect jumper wire between No. 1 terminal and No. 2
terminal.
10. If fuel pump does not run, remove left maintenance access cover in luggage area and
disconnect 2 pin connector, then attach positive probe of voltmeter to yellow/black terminal and
negative probe to body ground. Battery voltage should be available.
11. If there is battery voltage, check black wire between fuel pump and ground No. G401 and
replace fuel pump.
12. If battery voltage is not available, check yellow/black wire between fuel cut-off relay and fuel
pump.
13. If wires are satisfactory in steps 11 and 12, replace fuel cut-off relay and repeat test.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Measure resistance between connector pins on tank unit, that correspond to yellow/white and black
wires. Resistance should be:
E (empty) .............................................................................................................................................
................................................ 105-110 ohms 1/2 (half full) ................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 25.5-39.5 ohms F (full) .
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................................... 2-5 ohms
WARNING: Don't smoke or allow open flames in work area or around open fuel systems.
Removal
2. Remove vapor line from fuel tank on all except 1985 Accord or from liquid/vapor separator on
1985 Accord. Connect suitable vacuum/pressure gauge and pump to hose using T fitting if
necessary.
3. Slowly draw a vacuum while observing gauge. Vacuum should momentarily stabilize at .2-.6 inch
Hg.
4. If vacuum does not stabilize within specifications, replace valve and repeat test.
5. Slowly pressurize vapor line while observing gauge. Pressure should momentarily stabilize at
1-2.2 inch Hg.
6. If pressure does not stabilize within specifications, replace valve and repeat test.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator -
Electronic > Component Information > Description and Operation > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Description and Operation Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
When the ECU senses a reduction in idle speed caused by increased engine load, the idle control
solenoid valve opens to allow additional air to bypass the throttle plate and enter the intake
manifold. Correct valve operation depends upon changes in the voltage at the FR terminal of the
alternator for quick response. This valve also lowers fast idle speed during engine warm-up. To
prevent erratic engine operation after engine first fires, the valve is opened during cranking and
immediately after starting to provide additional air into the intake manifold.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator -
Electronic > Component Information > Description and Operation > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve > Page 1965
Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic: Description and Operation Idle Control System
This system Fig. 2, used on vehicles with A/C, prevents idle speed from dropping when A/C
compressor is turned on. When compressor is on, manifold vacuum is introduced into the
diaphragm chamber of the idle boost controller through the A/C idle boost solenoid valve which is
activated by the compressor clutch switch. The idle controller diaphragm rod is retracted to open
the throttle valve a certain amount. The amount of this throttle valve opening is adjusted with the
idle control screw on the idle controller to maintain original idle speed. When the compressor is off,
the A/C idle boost solenoid valve is deactivated to close vacuum passage and the vacuum stored
in the controller is released through the filter on the solenoid valve.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Controller <--> [Idle
Speed/Throttle Actuator - Mechanical] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Throttle Controller: Testing and Inspection
Fig. 27 Troubleshooting Flow Chart. Testing A/C Idle Boost Solenoid Valve
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Controller <--> [Idle
Speed/Throttle Actuator - Mechanical] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1969
Fig. 27 Troubleshooting Flow Chart. Testing A/C Idle Boost Solenoid Valve
2. Check idle speed with headlights, heater blower, rear window defogger, cooling fan and A/C off.
Idle speed should be 750-850 RPM on manual transmission and 700-800 RPM on automatic
transmission in N or P.
3. If idle speed is within specifications, proceed to step 7.
4. If idle speed is not within specifications, disconnect vacuum hose from idle boost throttle
controller and check vacuum. There should be no vacuum.
5. If there is no vacuum, check throttle valve shaft for binding or sticking and replace idle boost
throttle controller.
7. If idle speed is within specifications in step 2, check idle speed with A/C on.
8. If idle speed is not 750-850 RPM on manual transmission, or not 700-800 RPM on automatic
transmission in N or P, disconnect vacuum hose from idle boost throttle controller and check for
vacuum. There should be vacuum.
9. If there is vacuum, check throttle valve shaft for binding or sticking and replace idle boost throttle
controller.
RH Side Of Cowl
When the air conditioner is turned on, the A/C idle control solenoid valve opens. This causes the
A/C idle control diaphragm to open the throttle valve, which in turn raises the idle speed. This valve
also opens when coolant temperature is low to ensure stable idling regardless of position of A/C
switch.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > A/C Idle Boost Throttle Controller
<--> [Idle Up Control Valve] > Component Information > Description and Operation > A/T Idle Control Solenoid Valve > Page
1975
A/C Idle Boost Throttle Controller: Description and Operation Fast Idle Mechanism
The air bypass valve is controlled by a thermowax plunger, Fig. 9. When the thermowax is cold, the
valve is open. When the thermowax is heated, the valve is closed. When the engine is cold the
valve allows additional air to bypass into the intake manifold so that engine idles faster than
normal. When engine reaches normal operating temperature, the valve begins to close, reducing
amount of air bypassing into the intake manifold.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > A/C Idle Boost Throttle Controller
<--> [Idle Up Control Valve] > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 1976
The air bypass valve is controlled by a thermowax plunger, Fig. 9. When the thermowax is cold, the
valve is open. When the thermowax is heated, the valve is closed. When the engine is cold the
valve allows additional air to bypass into the intake manifold so that engine idles faster than
normal. When engine reaches normal operating temperature, the valve begins to close, reducing
amount of air bypassing into the intake manifold.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel
System) > Component Information > Description and Operation
2. Remove fuel cut-off relay and check for continuity between No. 3 terminal and body ground.
Continuity should exist.
3. If there is no continuity, check black wire between fuel cut-off relay and ground No. G401.
4. Attach positive probe of voltmeter to No. 2 terminal and negative probe to No. 3 terminal, then
turn ignition switch to On position. Battery voltage should be available.
5. If there is no voltage, check black/yellow wire from ignition switch and fuel cut-off relay as well as
No. 12 fuse.
6. Turn ignition switch to Off position and attach positive probe of voltmeter to No. 4 terminal and
negative probe to No. 3 terminal, then turn ignition switch to On position. Battery voltage should be
available.
7. If there is no voltage, check blue wire from ignition coil and fuel cut-off relay.
8. Turn ignition switch to Off position and connect jumper wire between No. 1 terminal and No. 2
terminal.
10. If fuel pump does not run, remove left maintenance access cover in luggage area and
disconnect 2 pin connector, then attach positive probe of voltmeter to yellow/black terminal and
negative probe to body ground. Battery voltage should be available.
11. If there is battery voltage, check black wire between fuel pump and ground No. G401 and
replace fuel pump.
12. If battery voltage is not available, check yellow/black wire between fuel cut-off relay and fuel
pump.
13. If wires are satisfactory in steps 11 and 12, replace fuel cut-off relay and repeat test.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Description and Operation
OCT 9, '87
Recall: 1988 Fuel-injected Prelude Throttle Body (Supersedes 87-018 of August 21, 1987)
PROBLEM
Some aluminum throttle body castings may contain slight porosity. During vehicle usage, a small
amount of coolant seepage may occur, and eventually residue may accumulate on the throttle
valve. The residue may cause the throttle valve to return slowly from slightly open positions to the
normal closed (idle) position when the accelerator pedal is released, Although the vehicle can be
stopped with the brakes, the reduced engine braking while decelerating could result in longer
stopping distances. Under some circumstances, this could lead to an accident without any prior
warning to the driver.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Check for a recall completion mark above the eighth digit of the VIN on the firewall.
^ If the last five digits of the serial number are 70711 or less, proceed to step 3.
^ If the last five digits of the serial number are above 70711, proceed to step 4.
3. Replace the throttle body assembly using the parts listed under PARTS INFORMATION. (See
the Service Manual, page 11-203, for removal.)
4. Center punch a recall completion mark above the eighth digit of the VIN on the firewall.
PARTS INFORMATION
NOTE: When supply of Throttle Body Kits is depleted, they will be superseded by Throttle Body
Assemblies which will not include the gasket or tube clamp.
Throttle Body Assembly Replacement Kit: (Includes throttle body assembly, gasket and tube
clamp.)
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of affected vehicles will be notified of this campaign by mail. Owners will be asked to
contact their nearest Honda dealer for replacement of the throttle body.
Dear Owner, This notice is sent to you in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic
and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Honda Motor Co., Ltd., has determined that a defect which relates to
motor vehicle safety exists in certain 1988 Honda Prelude Si models. Some aluminum throttle body
castings may contain slight porosity. During vehicle usage, a small amount of coolant seepage may
occur, and eventually residue may accumulate on the throttle valve. The residue may cause the
throttle valve to return slowly from slightly open positions to the normal closed (idle) position when
the accelerator pedal is released. Although the vehicle can be stopped with the brakes, the
reduced engine braking while decelerating could result in longer stopping distances. Under some
circumstances, this could lead to an accident without any prior warning to the driver. Our records
show you may own one of these cars. If so, please call your Honda dealer and make an
appointment with the Service Department to have the throttle body assembly replaced free of
charge. Parts are now available. Replacement will take about one hour. Please plan on leaving
your car at the dealership for the day to allow the dealer some flexibility in scheduling other
customers. If you are not satisfied with the service you receive from your Honda dealer,you may
call the Honda Zone Office shown in your area of the map on the next page. If you believe that
American Honda or the dealer has failed or is unable to remedy the defect in your car, free of
charge, within a reasonable time (60 days from the day you first take your car in for the repair
appointment), you may submit a complaint to the Administrator, National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration, 400 7th Street S.W., Washington, D.C. 20590, or call (800) 424-9393 (Washington,
D.C., residents may call 426-0123). If you no longer own the car, please fill out and return the
enclosed postage-paid card. We regret any inconvenience this may cause you.
Sincerely
Throttle Body: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - Coolant Residue On Throttle Body
OCT 9, '87
Recall: 1988 Fuel-injected Prelude Throttle Body (Supersedes 87-018 of August 21, 1987)
PROBLEM
Some aluminum throttle body castings may contain slight porosity. During vehicle usage, a small
amount of coolant seepage may occur, and eventually residue may accumulate on the throttle
valve. The residue may cause the throttle valve to return slowly from slightly open positions to the
normal closed (idle) position when the accelerator pedal is released, Although the vehicle can be
stopped with the brakes, the reduced engine braking while decelerating could result in longer
stopping distances. Under some circumstances, this could lead to an accident without any prior
warning to the driver.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Check for a recall completion mark above the eighth digit of the VIN on the firewall.
^ If the last five digits of the serial number are 70711 or less, proceed to step 3.
^ If the last five digits of the serial number are above 70711, proceed to step 4.
3. Replace the throttle body assembly using the parts listed under PARTS INFORMATION. (See
the Service Manual, page 11-203, for removal.)
4. Center punch a recall completion mark above the eighth digit of the VIN on the firewall.
PARTS INFORMATION
NOTE: When supply of Throttle Body Kits is depleted, they will be superseded by Throttle Body
Assemblies which will not include the gasket or tube clamp.
Throttle Body Assembly Replacement Kit: (Includes throttle body assembly, gasket and tube
clamp.)
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of affected vehicles will be notified of this campaign by mail. Owners will be asked to
contact their nearest Honda dealer for replacement of the throttle body.
Dear Owner, This notice is sent to you in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic
and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Honda Motor Co., Ltd., has determined that a defect which relates to
motor vehicle safety exists in certain 1988 Honda Prelude Si models. Some aluminum throttle body
castings may contain slight porosity. During vehicle usage, a small amount of coolant seepage may
occur, and eventually residue may accumulate on the throttle valve. The residue may cause the
throttle valve to return slowly from slightly open positions to the normal closed (idle) position when
the accelerator pedal is released. Although the vehicle can be stopped with the brakes, the
reduced engine braking while decelerating could result in longer stopping distances. Under some
circumstances, this could lead to an accident without any prior warning to the driver. Our records
show you may own one of these cars. If so, please call your Honda dealer and make an
appointment with the Service Department to have the throttle body assembly replaced free of
charge. Parts are now available. Replacement will take about one hour. Please plan on leaving
your car at the dealership for the day to allow the dealer some flexibility in scheduling other
customers. If you are not satisfied with the service you receive from your Honda dealer,you may
call the Honda Zone Office shown in your area of the map on the next page. If you believe that
American Honda or the dealer has failed or is unable to remedy the defect in your car, free of
charge, within a reasonable time (60 days from the day you first take your car in for the repair
appointment), you may submit a complaint to the Administrator, National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration, 400 7th Street S.W., Washington, D.C. 20590, or call (800) 424-9393 (Washington,
D.C., residents may call 426-0123). If you no longer own the car, please fill out and return the
enclosed postage-paid card. We regret any inconvenience this may cause you.
Sincerely
Refer to Figs. 38 and 39 for replacement procedure. Prior to removal, mark position of vacuum
hoses, cables and electrical connectors to ensure proper installation.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Adjustments
2. Check cable freeplay at throttle linkage, proper deflection being 3/16-3/8 in. (4-10 mm).
3. If deflection is not within specifications, turn adjusting nut until cable has no deflection, Fig. 8.
4. Loosen adjusting nut until cable deflects within specifications, then tighten locknut.
5. After adjusting the throttle cable, have someone press down on the accelerator pedal inside the
car while checking for full throttle condition at the carburetor.
1988 ACCORD & PRELUDE The bypass control system Fig. 22, provides two air intake paths in
the intake manifold to allow the selection of the intake path most favorable for a given engine
speed. Satisfactory power performance is achieved by switching paths. High torque at low RPM is
achieved by using the long intake path. High power at high RPM is achieved by using the short
intake path.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Firing Order > Component Information >
Specifications
Firing Order: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > Number One Cylinder >
Component Information > Locations
Firing Order: 1 - 3 - 4 - 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > Timing Marks and Indicators >
System Information > Locations
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > TDC/Crank Sensor - Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins TDC/Crank Sensor - Replacement
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2039
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The sensors and distributor are designed as a single assembly. The entire assembly consists of a
pair or rotors, TDC/CYL sensors, and a pickup for each rotor. The rotors are coupled to the
camshaft and turn together as a unit as the camshaft rotates. The CYL sensor detects position of
the No. 1 cylinder. The TDC sensor determines injection timing for each cylinder, and also monitors
engine speed to read out the basic discharge duration for different operating conditions.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > TDC/Crank Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair TDC/Crank Sensor
1988 Prelude
3. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 41, being careful not to
damage rotors.
6. Install TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 42, with part numbers facing up.
1988 Prelude
2. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up CYL rotor, being careful not to damage rotor.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > TDC/Crank Sensor > Page 2044
3. Pull CYL coil assembly and mount rubber out from sensor housing by removing screws.
4. Remove C-clip.
6. Separate coupling from shaft by removing roll pin, then remove rotor shaft.
7. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to sensor housing and install washers on rotor shaft, then
install shaft in sensor housing and install new C-clip.
8. Install coupling with index mark facing as shown, Fig. 43, then install pin and the pin retainer.
9. Install mount rubber, then the CYL coil assembly and the CYL rotor. Install rotor with part
number facing up and install roll pin so that it faces as shown, Fig. 44.
11. Install new O-ring on sensor housing, then slip sensor into position.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Vacuum Advance
Diaphragm <--> [Distributor Advance Unit] > Component Information > Specifications
1986-87 CIVIC & CRX, 1986-88 ACCORD & 1988 PRELUDE W/CARBURETED ENGINE
2. Apply vacuum greater than 20 inches Hg to diaphragm top port and ensure stator turns
counterclockwise and stays. If stator does not turn or stay, replace diaphragm.
3. Release vacuum and ensure stator returns. If stator does not return, replace diaphragm.
1. Inspect distributor cap for cracks or damaged terminals and carbon tracking. Replace as
needed.
2. Inspect rotor for cracks or roughened surfaces. Scrape off carbon deposits and smooth rotor
terminal with an oil stone or sand paper. Replace rotor if insulator contacts are burned.
3. Check ignition wires for corrosion, cracks or burned insulation, then measure ignition wire
resistance using an ohmmeter. Replace wires if they are damaged or if resistance exceeds 25,000
ohms.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug Wires <--> [Ignition Cable] >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Spark Plug Wires: Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect distributor cap for cracks or damaged terminals and carbon tracking. Replace as
needed.
2. Inspect rotor for cracks or roughened surfaces. Scrape off carbon deposits and smooth rotor
terminal with an oil stone or sand paper. Replace rotor if insulator contacts are burned.
3. Check ignition wires for corrosion, cracks or burned insulation, then measure ignition wire
resistance using an ohmmeter. Replace wires if they are damaged or if resistance exceeds 25,000
ohms.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Specifications
1988 ACCORD & PRELUDE & 1986-87 EXC. CRX HF & PRELUDE W/CARBURETED ENGINE
Coil resistance varies with temperature. Resistance values given are for coil at 70°F.
1. Ensure ignition switch is off, then disconnect primary electrical connectors and secondary wire
from ignition coil.
2. Measure primary winding resistance between terminals A and D on coil, Fig. 8. Resistance
should be 1.215-1.485 ohms on 1988 Prelude or 1.2-1.5 ohms on other models.
3. Measure resistance between primary terminal A and secondary winding terminal, Fig. 8.
Resistance should be 9040-13,560 ohms on 1988 Prelude or 11,074-11,526 ohms on other
models.
6. Exc. on 1988 Prelude, check for continuity between terminals A and C and, if there is no
continuity, replace coil.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Igniter <--> [Ignition Control Module] >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Igniter: Testing and Inspection
1. On models with Hitachi distributor, disconnect lead wires from igniter unit. On models with Toyo
Denso distributor, remove igniter cover and pull out igniter unit.
2. Check voltage between blue wire and ground, then between black/yellow wire and ground with
ignition switch in ON position, Fig. 1. Battery voltage should be present. On models with Toyo
Denso distributor, two blue wires are used. Be sure to perform voltage check on blue wire indicated
in Fig. 1.
3. If battery voltage is not present at either wire, trace circuit and repair as needed.
4. Measure resistance between green terminal and other blue terminal on pickup coil. If resistance
is not approximately 750 ohms at 70°F, replace pickup coil.
5. Check continuity between igniter unit terminals shown in Fig. 2, connecting ohmmeter leads in
both directions. Continuity should be present in one direction only.
6. If continuity is indicated in both directions or if continuity is not indicated in either direction, igniter
is defective.
7. Connect ohmmeter positive probe to blue terminal and negative probe to ground, then measure
resistance on igniter input. Resistance should be at least 50,000 ohms at 70°F.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Igniter <--> [Ignition Control Module] >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2064
Fig. 3 Igniter Unit Distributor Terminal Identification.
1. Remove distributor.
3. Check voltage between BLU1 terminal and body ground, then the BLK/YEL terminal and body
ground with ignition switch in On position, Fig. 3. There should be battery voltage.
4. Measure resistance between GRN and BLU2 terminals on pickup coil and replace pickup coil if
resistance is not 650---850 ohms at 70°F.
5. Check for continuity in both directions between A and B terminals on igniter output, Fig. 4. There
should be continuity in only one direction.
6. Connect ohmmeter positive probe to terminal D and negative probe to ground, then measure
resistance of igniter input. Resistance should be 450---550 ohms or greater at 70°F.
Hitachi Type
2. Disconnect wires from igniter unit and check voltage between blue wire and body ground, then
black/yellow wire and body ground, with ignition switch in On position. There should be battery
voltage.
3. With wires disconnected, check for continuity in both directions between terminals. There should
be continuity in only one direction.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Igniter
<--> [Ignition Control Module] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Igniter: Testing and Inspection
1. On models with Hitachi distributor, disconnect lead wires from igniter unit. On models with Toyo
Denso distributor, remove igniter cover and pull out igniter unit.
2. Check voltage between blue wire and ground, then between black/yellow wire and ground with
ignition switch in ON position, Fig. 1. Battery voltage should be present. On models with Toyo
Denso distributor, two blue wires are used. Be sure to perform voltage check on blue wire indicated
in Fig. 1.
3. If battery voltage is not present at either wire, trace circuit and repair as needed.
4. Measure resistance between green terminal and other blue terminal on pickup coil. If resistance
is not approximately 750 ohms at 70°F, replace pickup coil.
5. Check continuity between igniter unit terminals shown in Fig. 2, connecting ohmmeter leads in
both directions. Continuity should be present in one direction only.
6. If continuity is indicated in both directions or if continuity is not indicated in either direction, igniter
is defective.
7. Connect ohmmeter positive probe to blue terminal and negative probe to ground, then measure
resistance on igniter input. Resistance should be at least 50,000 ohms at 70°F.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Igniter
<--> [Ignition Control Module] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2071
Fig. 3 Igniter Unit Distributor Terminal Identification.
1. Remove distributor.
3. Check voltage between BLU1 terminal and body ground, then the BLK/YEL terminal and body
ground with ignition switch in On position, Fig. 3. There should be battery voltage.
4. Measure resistance between GRN and BLU2 terminals on pickup coil and replace pickup coil if
resistance is not 650---850 ohms at 70°F.
5. Check for continuity in both directions between A and B terminals on igniter output, Fig. 4. There
should be continuity in only one direction.
6. Connect ohmmeter positive probe to terminal D and negative probe to ground, then measure
resistance of igniter input. Resistance should be 450---550 ohms or greater at 70°F.
Hitachi Type
2. Disconnect wires from igniter unit and check voltage between blue wire and body ground, then
black/yellow wire and body ground, with ignition switch in On position. There should be battery
voltage.
3. With wires disconnected, check for continuity in both directions between terminals. There should
be continuity in only one direction.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > TDC/Crank Sensor - Replacement
Camshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins TDC/Crank Sensor - Replacement
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > TDC/Crank Sensor - Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins TDC/Crank Sensor - Replacement
Before replacing a TDC or crank angle sensor on an '88-91 Prelude, measure the air gap on the
original sensor. When you install the new sensor, adjust the air gap to the original measurement.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2082
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
The sensors and distributor are designed as a single assembly. The entire assembly consists of a
pair or rotors, TDC/CYL sensors, and a pickup for each rotor. The rotors are coupled to the
camshaft and turn together as a unit as the camshaft rotates. The CYL sensor detects position of
the No. 1 cylinder. The TDC sensor determines injection timing for each cylinder, and also monitors
engine speed to read out the basic discharge duration for different operating conditions.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > TDC/Crank Sensor
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair TDC/Crank Sensor
1988 Prelude
3. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 41, being careful not to
damage rotors.
6. Install TDC and CRANK rotors, Fig. 42, with part numbers facing up.
1988 Prelude
2. Using two screwdrivers, carefully pry up CYL rotor, being careful not to damage rotor.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > TDC/Crank Sensor > Page 2087
3. Pull CYL coil assembly and mount rubber out from sensor housing by removing screws.
4. Remove C-clip.
6. Separate coupling from shaft by removing roll pin, then remove rotor shaft.
7. Apply molybdenum disulfide grease to sensor housing and install washers on rotor shaft, then
install shaft in sensor housing and install new C-clip.
8. Install coupling with index mark facing as shown, Fig. 43, then install pin and the pin retainer.
9. Install mount rubber, then the CYL coil assembly and the CYL rotor. Install rotor with part
number facing up and install roll pin so that it faces as shown, Fig. 44.
11. Install new O-ring on sensor housing, then slip sensor into position.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Starting System -
Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2093
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
6. On all models, position suitable tool into hole on lock cylinder housing and depress pin, then
remove lock cylinder from housing.
INSTALLATION
a. Place ignition lock cylinder in the LOCK position. b. Rotate key until it is almost at the ACC
position, then insert lock cylinder until pin contacts housing. c. Rotate key to ACC position, then
push pin in and insert lock cylinder into housing until pin clicks into place.
a. Place ingnition lock cylinder in the O position. b. Rotate key until it is almost at the I position,
then insert lock cylinder until pin contacts housing. c. Rotate key to I position, then push pin in and
insert lock cylinder into housing until pin clicks into place.
Body Components.
1988 Prelude
1. Turn ignition switch to On position and observe shift indicator light while shifting into each range.
2. If light does not work properly, check linkage and shift indicator and repair as necessary.
3. Turn ignition switch to Off position and connect system checker harness between ECU and
connector, Fig. 23, but disconnect B connector from engine compartment wiring harness only, not
the ECU.
4. Turn ignition switch on and measure voltage between B7 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal.
5. If voltage is not approximately 5 volts, substitute known good ECU and repeat test and, if voltage
is now approximately 5 volts, replace original ECU.
7. If voltage is not below 1 volt, repair open in light green wire between ECU terminal B7 and
combination meter and/or repair open in green wire between combination meter and shift position
console switch.
8. If voltage is below 1 volt, measure voltage between B7 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal in Park
position.
9. If voltage is not below 1 volt, repair open in green/white wire between combination meter and
shift position console switch.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Control Module, A/T >
Component Information > Locations
Body Components.
TYPE ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. AF
1991 .....................................................................................................................................................
................... 3.2 liters 3.4 quarts
Civic At Assembly:................................................................................................................................
..................................5.4 L (5.7 qt U.S. 4.8 Imp qt)
Accord:
1986-89 ...............................................................................................................................................
................................ 3.0 liters 3.2 quarts 1990-91 ...............................................................................
................................................................................................ 2.4 liters 2.5 quarts
Body Components.
Seals and Gaskets: Technical Service Bulletins Torque Converter Oil Seal - Installation Tool
00-022
March 7, 2000
Applies To: ALL Models With L4 or V6 Engine and A/T With 44 mm I.D. Torque Converter Oil Seal
The service manual procedure for installing the torque converter oil seal requires you to
disassemble the transmission. A new required special tool, which attaches to your existing 40 mm
l.D. driver, lets you install this seal without removing the main shaft or disassembling the
transmission.
ORDERING INFORMATION
Additional seal driver attachments are available from American Honda using normal parts ordering
procedures.
PROCEDURE
2. Remove and discard the torque converter oil seal. Be careful not to damage the torque converter
housing.
4. Press the long end of the seal driver attachment into the driver. Press the new seal onto the
short end. Do not apply any type of sealer to the seal or
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T >
System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Torque Converter Oil Seal - Installation Tool > Page 2126
the torque converter housing; you must install the seal dry.
6. With a soft-face hammer, lightly tap the driver until the seal is fully seated in the torque converter
housing.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches -
A/T > Transmission Mode Switch, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
1988 Prelude
1. Turn ignition switch to On position and observe shift indicator light while shifting into each range.
2. If light does not work properly, check linkage and shift indicator and repair as necessary.
3. Turn ignition switch to Off position and connect system checker harness between ECU and
connector, Fig. 23, but disconnect B connector from engine compartment wiring harness only, not
the ECU.
4. Turn ignition switch on and measure voltage between B7 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal.
5. If voltage is not approximately 5 volts, substitute known good ECU and repeat test and, if voltage
is now approximately 5 volts, replace original ECU.
7. If voltage is not below 1 volt, repair open in light green wire between ECU terminal B7 and
combination meter and/or repair open in green wire between combination meter and shift position
console switch.
8. If voltage is below 1 volt, measure voltage between B7 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal in Park
position.
9. If voltage is not below 1 volt, repair open in green/white wire between combination meter and
shift position console switch.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T > Shift
Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > 3 Speed Automatic Transaxle
SHIFT CABLE
2. Move selector lever to D, then remove lock pin from cable adjuster, Fig. 1.
3. Ensure hole in adjuster is aligned with hole in shift cable. If holes are not aligned, loosen shift
cable locknuts and adjust cable as required.
4. Tighten locknuts and install lock pin through adjuster and cable. If lock pin binds during
installation, adjustment is incorrect.
Fig. 2 Throttle control cable bracket adjustment. Exc. 1986-88 Accord w/fuel injected engine
1. Disconnect throttle control cable from bracket and control lever on transaxle.
2. Bend down tabs on locking plate and loosen bracket retaining bolts, Fig. 2.
3. Position adjusting tool between bracket and throttle control lever as shown in Fig. 2. Tool
07974-6890300 is designed to provide 83.5 mm (3.287 inches) clearance between throttle control
lever and cable bracket when tool is installed as shown in Fig. 2.
4. Position bracket so that there is no binding between bracket and adjusting tool, then tighten
retaining bolts while holding position of bracket.
5. Remove adjusting tool and bend locking tabs against retaining bolt heads.
Prior to adjusting throttle control cable, ensure accelerator cable, carburetor idle speed and control
cable are properly adjusted.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T > Shift
Cable, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > 3 Speed Automatic Transaxle > Page 2137
SHIFT CABLE
2. Shift to drive, then remove lock pin from cable adjuster, Fig. 1.
4. If holes are not aligned, loosen locknut on shift cable and adjust as necessary.
5. Tighten locknut, then install lock pin on adjuster. If lock pin binds during installation, cable is still
out of adjustment.
Fig. 2 Throttle control cable bracket adjustment. Exc. 1986-88 Accord w/fuel injected engine
1. Disconnect throttle control cable from bracket and control lever on transaxle.
2. Bend down tabs on locking plate and loosen bracket retaining bolts, Fig. 2.
3. Position adjusting tool between bracket and throttle control lever as shown in Fig. 2. Tool
07974-6890300 is designed to provide 83.5 mm (3.287 inches) clearance between throttle control
lever and cable bracket when tool is installed as shown in Fig. 2.
4. Position bracket so that there is no binding between bracket and adjusting tool, then tighten
retaining bolts while holding position of bracket.
5. Remove adjusting tool and bend locking tabs against retaining bolt heads.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Cable/Linkage, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > 3 Speed Automatic Cable Adjustment
SHIFT CABLE
2. Move selector lever to D, then remove lock pin from cable adjuster, Fig. 1.
3. Ensure hole in adjuster is aligned with hole in shift cable. If holes are not aligned, loosen shift
cable locknuts and adjust cable as required.
4. Tighten locknuts and install lock pin through adjuster and cable. If lock pin binds during
installation, adjustment is incorrect.
Fig. 2 Throttle control cable bracket adjustment. Exc. 1986-88 Accord w/fuel injected engine
1. Disconnect throttle control cable from bracket and control lever on transaxle.
2. Bend down tabs on locking plate and loosen bracket retaining bolts, Fig. 2.
3. Position adjusting tool between bracket and throttle control lever as shown in Fig. 2. Tool
07974-6890300 is designed to provide 83.5 mm (3.287 inches) clearance between throttle control
lever and cable bracket when tool is installed as shown in Fig. 2.
4. Position bracket so that there is no binding between bracket and adjusting tool, then tighten
retaining bolts while holding position of bracket.
5. Remove adjusting tool and bend locking tabs against retaining bolt heads.
Prior to adjusting throttle control cable, ensure accelerator cable, carburetor idle speed and control
cable are properly adjusted.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Cable/Linkage, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > 3 Speed Automatic Cable Adjustment > Page 2144
Throttle Valve Cable/Linkage: Adjustments 4 Speed Automatic Cable Adjustment
Fig. 8 Throttle control cable adjustment. Except 1984-85 Accord (models w/fuel injected engine)
1. Start engine and run until it reaches normal operating temperature, ensure accelerator cable and
idle speed are properly adjusted, then stop engine.
2. Attach 3 pound weight to accelerator pedal, then raise and release pedal to remove all freeplay
from throttle cable.
4. Press throttle control lever down until it stops, then rotate locknut (A) until it lightly contacts cable
bracket.
5. Hold position of locknut (A) and securely tighten locknut (B) against bracket, Fig. 8.
6. Remove weight from pedal, then ensure cable moves freely and that throttle lever freeplay is
0.078-0.157 inch on 1986 models, or above .080 inch on except 1986 models, Fig. 6.
7. Start engine, depress accelerator pedal, and check synchronization between throttle opening
and throttle control cable movement.
8. If throttle control lever does not start to move as engine RPM increases, proceed as follows:
a. If throttle control lever moves before RPM increases, loosen locknut (A) slightly and tighten
locknut (B). b. If RPM increases before throttle control lever moves, loosen locknut (B) slightly and
tighten locknut (A). c. Repeat adjustment until proper synchronization is obtained.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Cable/Linkage, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > 3 Speed Automatic Cable Adjustment > Page 2145
Fig. 9 Throttle control cable adjustment. 1984 Prelude
W/Carbureted Engine
1. Ensure accelerator pedal adjustment and carburetor throttle cable play are correct.
3. Ensure idle speed, automatic choke operation, and distance between throttle control lever and
throttle control bracket are correct.
4. Attach a weight of approximately 3 lbs. to accelerator pedal, raise pedal, and release it.
6. On 1984 models, remove hot air tube. On except 1984 models, remove air intake duct.
7. On 1984 models, lay end of cable on emission control box. On except 1984 models, lay end of
cable on shock tower.
8. Rotate locknut (A) until distance between face of nut and end of cable is as shown in Figs. 9 and
10.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Cable/Linkage, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > 3 Speed Automatic Cable Adjustment > Page 2146
Fig. 7 Throttle control cable adjustment. Except 1984-85 Accord (models w/carbureted engine)
9. Adjust distance between throttle control cable end and locknut (A), Fig. 7.
10. Insert end of throttle control cable in groove of throttle control lever.
11. Insert throttle control cable in bracket and secure with locknut (B).
12. Ensure cable is not kinked or twisted, and that it moves freely when depressing accelerator
pedal.
13. Remove weight from accelerator pedal and depress pedal to ensure play at throttle control
lever is within specifications, Fig. 6.
14. Start engine and check synchronization between carburetor and throttle control cable. Throttle
control lever should begin to move as engine speed increases.
15. If throttle control lever moves before engine speed increases, turn cable locknut (A)
counterclockwise and tighten locknut (B).
16. If throttle control lever moves after engine speed increases, turn locknut (A) clockwise and
tighten locknut (B).
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Cable/Linkage, A/T > Component Information > Adjustments > 3 Speed Automatic Cable Adjustment > Page 2147
SHIFT CABLE
2. Shift to drive, then remove lock pin from cable adjuster, Fig. 1.
4. If holes are not aligned, loosen locknut on shift cable and adjust as necessary.
5. Tighten locknut, then install lock pin on adjuster. If lock pin binds during installation, cable is still
out of adjustment.
Fig. 2 Throttle control cable bracket adjustment. Exc. 1986-88 Accord w/fuel injected engine
1. Disconnect throttle control cable from bracket and control lever on transaxle.
2. Bend down tabs on locking plate and loosen bracket retaining bolts, Fig. 2.
3. Position adjusting tool between bracket and throttle control lever as shown in Fig. 2. Tool
07974-6890300 is designed to provide 83.5 mm (3.287 inches) clearance between throttle control
lever and cable bracket when tool is installed as shown in Fig. 2.
4. Position bracket so that there is no binding between bracket and adjusting tool, then tighten
retaining bolts while holding position of bracket.
5. Remove adjusting tool and bend locking tabs against retaining bolt heads.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Specifications
Torque Converter: Specifications
COMPONENT .....................................................................................................................................
............................................................... TORQUE
The spring-style clamps used on the ATF cooler lines are made to hold the cooler lines to the ATF
cooler under normal operating conditions. The ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H) uses high
pressure (100 psi) to do its job. With the pump motor running, the spring-style clamps can walk off
or disconnect, and you'll wind up with a real mess to clean up in your shop.
In March of this year, we sent each Honda dealership a pair of high-quality worm-style clamps to
replace the original spring-style clamps. These clamps were part of a cooler cleaner update kit, and
securely hold the cooler line in place. They've got a blue cap for easy identification. Need some
more? Just call G-TFC, Inc.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information > Page 2156
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information
89-022
(Supersedes 89-022, dated June 18, 2004, to update the information marked by asterisks)
Before installing an overhauled or remanufactured A/T, you must thoroughly clean the ATF cooler
to prevent system contamination. Failure to do so could cause a repeat A/T failure. The ATF Cooler
Cleaner (PIN GTHTTCF6H) is a portable, electrically operated special tool that cleans the ATF
cooler with high- pressure, heated ATF. This cleaning action melts down waxy varnish residue left
by burnt ATF and purges metal particles, clutch material, and other contaminants. The ATF Cooler
Cleaner has these features:
^ Uses about 9.5 gallons of Honda ATF-Z1, which gets filtered and recirculated.
^ Heats ATF to a temperature of 1400 to 150°F and then pumps it through the ATF cooler at high
pressure (100 psi) using a pulsating action and air purging. Switching the hoses cleans the ATF
cooler in the reverse direction.
This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides
you through the entire ATF cooler cleaning process.
*REQUIRED MATERIALS
ORDERING INFORMATION
Additional ATF cooler cleaners or magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters can be ordered through the
Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To order on the iN, click on SERVICE, then Service Bay,
then Tool and Equipment Program. From the Tool and Equipment Program menu, click on the
Online Catalog tab, and then search for the desired filter pack by part number.*
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information > Page 2157
TOOL DESCRIPTION
CLEANING PROCEDURE
The cleaning procedure involves hot fluid under high pressure. Check the security of all hoses and
connections. Always wear safety glasses or a face shield, gloves, and protective clothing. If you get
ATF in your eyes or on your skin, rinse with water immediately.
Improper use of the ATF cooler cleaner can result in burns and other serious injuries.
Always wear eye protection and protective clothing, and follow all instructions in this bulletin.
1. Plug the ATF cooler cleaner into a 110 V grounded electrical outlet.
NOTICE
Make sure the outlet has no other appliances (light fixtures, drop lights, extension cords) plugged
into it. Also, never plug the cooler cleaner into an extension cord or drop light cord; you would
damage the unit.
2. Flip the HEAT toggle switch to ON. Wait 1 hour for the cooler cleaner to reach its operating
temperature. (The cooler cleaner is ready to use when the temperature gauge reads 140° to
150°F.)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information > Page 2158
3. Connect the appropriate fittings to the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines. Connect the red hose to
the cooler outlet line (the line going to the external filter). Connect the blue hose to the cooler inlet
line.
NOTICE
The quick connect fitting has a one-way check valve to keep ATF from entering your shop's air
system. Do not remove or replace the fitting. Attach the coupler provided with the cooler cleaner to
your shop air line if your coupler is not compatible.
5. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is
running, open and close the air purge valve periodically to cause agitation and improve the
cleaning process.
6. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve
open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF.
7. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler, then connect the red hose to the cooler
inlet line.
9. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is
running, open and close the air purge valve periodically.
10. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve
open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF.
11. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler lines. Connect the red and blue hoses
to each other.
12. Disconnect the shop air from the air purge valve. Disconnect and stow the coupler if used.
13. Disconnect and stow the fittings from the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines.
TOOL MAINTENANCE
Follow these instructions to keep the ATF cooler cleaner working properly:
*^ Replace the two magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters every 20 hours, based on hour meter
reading. For more information on filter replacement, see the
January 2008 Honda ServiceNews article, Hour Meter Tells You When to Replace ATF Cooler
Cleaner Filters.*
^ Fill the tank so the ATF is 4.5 inches from the top of the filler hole; do not overfill.
NOTE:
If the fluid level is low, the red indicator above the HEAT toggle switch comes on and the tank
heater will not work.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information > Page 2160
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Cooler Flushing Procedure
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
When an automatic transmission has been overhauled or is replaced for any reason, the cooler
must be flushed to eliminate system contamination.
J 38405-A
CORRECTIVE ACTION
[WARNING] Transmission fluid can cause serious eye injury. Always wear safety glasses or a face
shield when using the transmission flusher. For eye and skin contact, flush with water immediately.
1. Check the flusher and hoses for wear or cracks. If found, replace before using.
2. Use the measuring cup and fill the tank with 21 ounces of J35944-20 biodegradable flushing fluid
(supplied with tool).
NOTE: Do not substitute any other fluid and follow the handling procedure on the fluid container.
3. Secure the filler cap and pressurize the tank with 80-120 psi of shop air.
NOTE: The air hose should be equipped with a water trap to ensure a dry air system.
4. Use the hanger located in front of the water valve and hang the flusher under the car.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - ATF Cooler Cleaner Information > Page 2161
5. Using a hose clamp, attach the discharge hose of the flusher tank to the return line of the
transmission cooler. See illustration for identification of these hoses.
6. Using a hose clamp, connect the drain hose to the inlet line of the transmission cooler and clamp
the other end to an empty 55 gal. drum or floor drain. See illustration for identification of these
hoses.
7. With the water and air valves OFF, attach the water and air supply to the flusher (hot water if
available).
8. Turn on the flusher's water valve for 10 seconds so water flows through the cooler.
NOTE: If water does not flow through the cooler it is completely clogged and must be replaced.
9. Depress the flusher's trigger and slip the wire clip over it.
10. While flushing the system for two minutes, every 15 to 20 seconds turn on the air valve for five
seconds to create a surging action (air pressure max. 120 psi).
11. Turn off the water valve and release the trigger.
12. Reverse the hoses in order to flush in the opposite direction. Then repeat steps 8 through 10.
13. Release the trigger and allow only water to rinse the cooler for one minute.
15. Turn on the air valve for approximately two minutes or until no moisture is seen coming out of
the drain hose.
CAUTION: Residual moisture in the cooler or pipes can cause damage to the transmission.
18. Reinstall the transmission and inlet line and leave the drain hose attached to the cooler.
19. Make sure the transmission is in Park. Then fill the transmission with ATF and run the engine
for 30 seconds or until approximately one quart is discharged.
20. Remove the drain hose and reconnect the cooler's return hose to the transmission.
22. Clean the flusher using the procedure under TOOL MAINTENANCE.
TOOL MAINTENANCE
2. Depress the trigger and flush the discharge hose. If the discharged water does not foam, then
the orifice is blocked.
3. Clean the blocked orifice by disconnecting the plumbing from the tank at the large coupling nut.
4. Remove the in-line filter from the discharge side and clean if necessary.
5. The fluid orifice is located behind the filter: clear it with the pick (screwed into the bottom of the
tank handle) or blow with air.
This bulletin covers technical procedures only. The flat rate time is included in the operations for
automatic transmission replacement, overhaul. and exchange. The 1988-89 Flat Rate Manual
reflects this change.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Mode
Switch, A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
1988 Prelude
1. Turn ignition switch to On position and observe shift indicator light while shifting into each range.
2. If light does not work properly, check linkage and shift indicator and repair as necessary.
3. Turn ignition switch to Off position and connect system checker harness between ECU and
connector, Fig. 23, but disconnect B connector from engine compartment wiring harness only, not
the ECU.
4. Turn ignition switch on and measure voltage between B7 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal.
5. If voltage is not approximately 5 volts, substitute known good ECU and repeat test and, if voltage
is now approximately 5 volts, replace original ECU.
7. If voltage is not below 1 volt, repair open in light green wire between ECU terminal B7 and
combination meter and/or repair open in green wire between combination meter and shift position
console switch.
8. If voltage is below 1 volt, measure voltage between B7 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal in Park
position.
9. If voltage is not below 1 volt, repair open in green/white wire between combination meter and
shift position console switch.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Pressure Plate > Component Information >
Specifications
The spring-style clamps used on the ATF cooler lines are made to hold the cooler lines to the ATF
cooler under normal operating conditions. The ATF Cooler Cleaner (P/N GHTTTCF6H) uses high
pressure (100 psi) to do its job. With the pump motor running, the spring-style clamps can walk off
or disconnect, and you'll wind up with a real mess to clean up in your shop.
In March of this year, we sent each Honda dealership a pair of high-quality worm-style clamps to
replace the original spring-style clamps. These clamps were part of a cooler cleaner update kit, and
securely hold the cooler line in place. They've got a blue cap for easy identification. Need some
more? Just call G-TFC, Inc.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Fluid - Differential > Component
Information > Specifications
Fluid - Differential: Specifications
TYPE ...................................................................................................................................................
......................................................................... GL-5
1986-87 ...............................................................................................................................................
........................................ 1.0 liters 2.2 pints 1988-91 .........................................................................
.............................................................................................................. 0.6 liters 1.2 pints
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly > Axle
Shaft > Component Information > Service and Repair
Axle Shaft: Service and Repair
Removal
Replacement procedures for left and right driveshafts are the same.
2. After removing spindle nut locking device, loosen spindle nut. On models equipped with staked
spindle nut, loosen nut with suitable wrench to overcome nut lock. Nut must be replaced during
installation.
3. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheel assembly and spindle nut.
4. On Prelude and 1986-88 Accord, remove damper fork through bolt, pinch bolt and the damper
fork.
5. On all models, separate lower ball joint from steering knuckle. On models equipped with front
stabilizer bar, remove stabilizer bar attaching bolts prior to separating lower ball joint from steering
knuckle.
7. Using a blunt screwdriver or other suitable tool, pry CV joint out approximately 0.5 inch (12 mm)
to force spring clip past differential side gear spline groove.
Service
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly > Axle
Shaft > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2184
a. Pack inboard and outboard joints with molybdenum disulfide grease. b. Install rollers on spider
shafts, then slide spider assembly into inboard shaft joint. Avoid getting grease on rubber parts. c.
Position boots and install small end bands, then expand and compress boots until they return to
their normal shape and length. d. Install large end bands.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 91-029 > Jan > 99 >
Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns
Constant Velocity Joint: Customer Interest Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns
91-029
SYMPTOM
A clicking noise is heard while making right or left turns at 10 mph or less.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
PARTS INFORMATION
DIAGNOSIS
(Driving method)
1. Drive the car in a circle in an open parking lot at approximately 10 mph with the brakes slightly
applied.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 91-029 > Jan > 99 >
Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns > Page 2193
2. Have an assistant stand in the center of the circle and listen for the clicking noise.
3. Drive the car in the opposite direction. The assistant should be able to tell which axle is making
the noise.
DIAGNOSIS
(On-hoist method)
3. Apply the brakes to load the engine speed to 1,500 rpm while maintaining the same throttle
position.
4. Turn the wheels slowly to full left and full right positions. Have an assistant listen to determine
which axle is making the noise.
NOTE:
A driveshaft with a light degree of noise may not be detected by this on-hoist method.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
2. Use diagonal cutters to cut the two boot bands and the outboard joint boot, then remove them
from the driveshaft.
3. Wipe off the grease to expose the outboard joint. Measure and record distance "A" (from the
splined end of the driveshaft to the inner race) as a reference for reassembly.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 91-029 > Jan > 99 >
Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns > Page 2194
4. Carefully clamp the driveshaft in a vise.
5. *Remove the outboard joint using the threaded adapter (see REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS) and
a commercially available 5/8" x 18 slide hammer.*
6. Remove and discard the "C" clip from the driveshaft. Clean and inspect the driveshaft splines
and ring groove for burrs or other defects.
7. Install the new outboard joint boot provided in the kit. Slide it slowly onto the driveshaft to avoid
damaging the boot.
8. Install the new "C" clip onto the ring groove of the driveshaft.
9. Insert the driveshaft in the new outboard joint. Make sure the "C" clip is centered on the shaft
and is resting against the chamfered edge of the inner race.
NOTICE
12. Measure distance "A" (from the splines to the inner race of the joint). If the distance is more
than your measurement in Step 3, repeat Step 11.
13. When distance "A" equals your measurement in Step 3, the "C" clip should be seated in the
joint. Tap on the inner race with a plastic hammer to make sure the joint does not move on the
driveshaft.
14. Fit the small end of the boot into the boot groove on the driveshaft.
15. Install the small boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
16. Pack the outboard boot with the grease included in the kit. Pack the outboard joint with the
remaining grease, then fit the boot over the outboard joint.
17. Install the large boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
18. Reinstall the driveshaft assembly into the car. Refer to Section 16 of the appropriate service
manual.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 91029 > Apr > 92 >
Drive Axles - Clicking Noise While Turning
Constant Velocity Joint: Customer Interest Drive Axles - Clicking Noise While Turning
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM A clicking noise is heard while making right or left turns at 10 mph or less.
1. Drive the car in a circle in an open parking lot at approximately 10 mph with the brakes slightly
applied.
2. Have an assistant stand in the center of the circle and listen for the clicking noise.
3. Drive the car in the opposite direction. The assistant should be able to tell which axle is making
the noise.
(On-hoist method)
3. Apply the brakes to load the engine speed to 1500 rpm while maintaining the same throttle
position.
4. Turn the wheels slowly to full left and full right positions. Have an assistant listen to determine
which axle is making the noise.
NOTE: A driveshaft with a light degree of noise may not be detected by this on-hoist method.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 91029 > Apr > 92 >
Drive Axles - Clicking Noise While Turning > Page 2200
Replace the noisy outboard driveshaft joint.
1. Remove the driveshaft as described in Section 16 of the appropriate service manual.
2. Cut the two boot bands and the outboard joint boot, then remove them from the driveshaft.
3. Wipe off the grease to expose the outboard joint. Measure and record distance "A" (from the
splined end of the driveshaft to the inner race) as a reference for reassembly.
4. Carefully clamp the driveshaft in a vise with the outboard joint facing down. Clamp the driveshaft
tight enough to prevent it from moving but not so tight as to damage or distort it.
5. Position a trash can underneath the driveshaft to catch the outboard joint.
6. Place the head of a brass mallet on the inner race of the outboard joint. Using a large steel ball
peen hammer, strike the head of the brass mallet sharply two or three times.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 91029 > Apr > 92 >
Drive Axles - Clicking Noise While Turning > Page 2201
7. If the outboard joint does not come loose after two or three hits, rotate the driveshaft 180~ and
try again from the opposite side. If the outboard joint still will not come loose, replace the driveshaft
assembly.
9. Remove and discard the "C" clip from the driveshaft. Clean and inspect the driveshaft splines
and ring groove for burrs or other defects.
10. Install the new outboard joint boot provided in the kit. Slide it slowly onto the driveshaft to avoid
damaging the boot.
11. Install the new "C" clip onto the ring groove of the driveshaft.
12. Insert the driveshaft in the new outboard joint. Make sure the "C" clip is centered on the shaft
and is resting against the chamfered edge of the inner race.
13. To drive the outboard joint on the rest of the way, pick up the assembly and let it fall from about
10 cm (4 to 5 in.) onto a hard surface.
NOTICE
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 91029 > Apr > 92 >
Drive Axles - Clicking Noise While Turning > Page 2202
Do not use a hammer; excessive force may damage the driveshaft.
14. Measure distance "A" (from the splines to the inner race of the joint). If the distance is more
than your measurement in Step 3, repeat Step 13.
15. When distance "A" equals your measurement in Step 3, the "C" clip should be seated in the
joint. Tap on the inner race with a plastic hammer to make sure the joint does not move on the
driveshaft.
16. Fit the small end of the boot into the boot groove on the driveshaft.
17. Install the small boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
18. Pack the outboard boot with the grease included in the kit. Pack the outboard joint with the
remaining grease, then fit the boot over the outboard joint.
19. Install the large boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
20. Reinstall the driveshaft assembly into the car. Refer to Section 16 of the appropriate service
manual.
PARTS INFORMATION
Refer to Parts Information Bulletin A92-0032 for outboard joint kit application and part number.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Constant Velocity Joint: All Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed
Turns
91-029
Clicking Noise While Turning (Supersedes 91-029, dated April 17, 1992)
SYMPTOM
A clicking noise is heard while making right or left turns at 10 mph or less.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
PARTS INFORMATION
DIAGNOSIS
(Driving method)
1. Drive the car in a circle in an open parking lot at approximately 10 mph with the brakes slightly
applied.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 91-029 >
Jan > 99 > Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns > Page 2208
2. Have an assistant stand in the center of the circle and listen for the clicking noise.
3. Drive the car in the opposite direction. The assistant should be able to tell which axle is making
the noise.
DIAGNOSIS
(On-hoist method)
3. Apply the brakes to load the engine speed to 1,500 rpm while maintaining the same throttle
position.
4. Turn the wheels slowly to full left and full right positions. Have an assistant listen to determine
which axle is making the noise.
NOTE:
A driveshaft with a light degree of noise may not be detected by this on-hoist method.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
2. Use diagonal cutters to cut the two boot bands and the outboard joint boot, then remove them
from the driveshaft.
3. Wipe off the grease to expose the outboard joint. Measure and record distance "A" (from the
splined end of the driveshaft to the inner race) as a reference for reassembly.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 91-029 >
Jan > 99 > Drivetrain - Clicking Noise On Low Speed Turns > Page 2209
4. Carefully clamp the driveshaft in a vise.
5. *Remove the outboard joint using the threaded adapter (see REQUIRED SPECIAL TOOLS) and
a commercially available 5/8" x 18 slide hammer.*
6. Remove and discard the "C" clip from the driveshaft. Clean and inspect the driveshaft splines
and ring groove for burrs or other defects.
7. Install the new outboard joint boot provided in the kit. Slide it slowly onto the driveshaft to avoid
damaging the boot.
8. Install the new "C" clip onto the ring groove of the driveshaft.
9. Insert the driveshaft in the new outboard joint. Make sure the "C" clip is centered on the shaft
and is resting against the chamfered edge of the inner race.
NOTICE
12. Measure distance "A" (from the splines to the inner race of the joint). If the distance is more
than your measurement in Step 3, repeat Step 11.
13. When distance "A" equals your measurement in Step 3, the "C" clip should be seated in the
joint. Tap on the inner race with a plastic hammer to make sure the joint does not move on the
driveshaft.
14. Fit the small end of the boot into the boot groove on the driveshaft.
15. Install the small boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
16. Pack the outboard boot with the grease included in the kit. Pack the outboard joint with the
remaining grease, then fit the boot over the outboard joint.
17. Install the large boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
18. Reinstall the driveshaft assembly into the car. Refer to Section 16 of the appropriate service
manual.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 91029 >
Apr > 92 > Drive Axles - Clicking Noise While Turning
Constant Velocity Joint: All Technical Service Bulletins Drive Axles - Clicking Noise While Turning
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM A clicking noise is heard while making right or left turns at 10 mph or less.
1. Drive the car in a circle in an open parking lot at approximately 10 mph with the brakes slightly
applied.
2. Have an assistant stand in the center of the circle and listen for the clicking noise.
3. Drive the car in the opposite direction. The assistant should be able to tell which axle is making
the noise.
(On-hoist method)
3. Apply the brakes to load the engine speed to 1500 rpm while maintaining the same throttle
position.
4. Turn the wheels slowly to full left and full right positions. Have an assistant listen to determine
which axle is making the noise.
NOTE: A driveshaft with a light degree of noise may not be detected by this on-hoist method.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 91029 >
Apr > 92 > Drive Axles - Clicking Noise While Turning > Page 2215
Replace the noisy outboard driveshaft joint.
1. Remove the driveshaft as described in Section 16 of the appropriate service manual.
2. Cut the two boot bands and the outboard joint boot, then remove them from the driveshaft.
3. Wipe off the grease to expose the outboard joint. Measure and record distance "A" (from the
splined end of the driveshaft to the inner race) as a reference for reassembly.
4. Carefully clamp the driveshaft in a vise with the outboard joint facing down. Clamp the driveshaft
tight enough to prevent it from moving but not so tight as to damage or distort it.
5. Position a trash can underneath the driveshaft to catch the outboard joint.
6. Place the head of a brass mallet on the inner race of the outboard joint. Using a large steel ball
peen hammer, strike the head of the brass mallet sharply two or three times.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 91029 >
Apr > 92 > Drive Axles - Clicking Noise While Turning > Page 2216
7. If the outboard joint does not come loose after two or three hits, rotate the driveshaft 180~ and
try again from the opposite side. If the outboard joint still will not come loose, replace the driveshaft
assembly.
9. Remove and discard the "C" clip from the driveshaft. Clean and inspect the driveshaft splines
and ring groove for burrs or other defects.
10. Install the new outboard joint boot provided in the kit. Slide it slowly onto the driveshaft to avoid
damaging the boot.
11. Install the new "C" clip onto the ring groove of the driveshaft.
12. Insert the driveshaft in the new outboard joint. Make sure the "C" clip is centered on the shaft
and is resting against the chamfered edge of the inner race.
13. To drive the outboard joint on the rest of the way, pick up the assembly and let it fall from about
10 cm (4 to 5 in.) onto a hard surface.
NOTICE
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 91029 >
Apr > 92 > Drive Axles - Clicking Noise While Turning > Page 2217
Do not use a hammer; excessive force may damage the driveshaft.
14. Measure distance "A" (from the splines to the inner race of the joint). If the distance is more
than your measurement in Step 3, repeat Step 13.
15. When distance "A" equals your measurement in Step 3, the "C" clip should be seated in the
joint. Tap on the inner race with a plastic hammer to make sure the joint does not move on the
driveshaft.
16. Fit the small end of the boot into the boot groove on the driveshaft.
17. Install the small boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
18. Pack the outboard boot with the grease included in the kit. Pack the outboard joint with the
remaining grease, then fit the boot over the outboard joint.
19. Install the large boot band provided in the kit. Bend both sets of locking tabs over, then lightly
tap them flat.
20. Reinstall the driveshaft assembly into the car. Refer to Section 16 of the appropriate service
manual.
PARTS INFORMATION
Refer to Parts Information Bulletin A92-0032 for outboard joint kit application and part number.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Clock: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Broken Clock Reset Cover
Model
'88-91 PRELUDE
Applicable To ALL
PROBLEM
Replace the clock case with the parts listed in PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Identify the type of clock in the car by looking for a logo on the clock case behind the clock reset
cover. The Nippon Seiki clock has NS in the lower left hand corner. The Rhythm clock has no
identification mark on the clock case. Order the appropriate brand and color of clock case needed
(see PARTS INFORMATION).
2. Carefully pry the clock out of the dashboard, then disconnect the 4-P connector from the clock.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Constant
Velocity Joint: > 92002 > Jun > 92 > Instruments - Broken Clock Reset Cover > Page 2223
3. Pry up on the lock tabs to release the metal clips, then slide the clips off the rear housing.
4. Carefully lift up on the four plastic tabs holding the clock backing to the clock case.
5. Remove the rear housing and circuit board from the case.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Constant
Velocity Joint: > 92002 > Jun > 92 > Instruments - Broken Clock Reset Cover > Page 2224
6. Remove the reset buttons from the old clock case and install them into the new one.
7. Install the circuit board and rear housing onto the new clock case. Slide the metal clips onto the
rear housing, making sure the lock tabs "click" into place.
8. Reconnect the 4-P connector, then install the clock in the dashboard and set the time.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
5. Remove the rear housing and circuit board from the case.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Constant Velocity Joint > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Constant
Velocity Joint: > 92002 > Jun > 92 > Instruments - Broken Clock Reset Cover > Page 2232
6. Remove the reset buttons from the old clock case and install them into the new one.
7. Install the circuit board and rear housing onto the new clock case. Slide the metal clips onto the
rear housing, making sure the lock tabs "click" into place.
8. Reconnect the 4-P connector, then install the clock in the dashboard and set the time.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Fig. 5 Intermediate shaft assembly. Civic 4WD Wagon (1988 Prelude similar)
2. Press intermediate shaft out of the shaft bearing, then remove shaft inner seal.
3. Remove the 68 mm internal circlip, then press the intermediate shaft bearing out of the bearing
support.
Fig. 6 Intermediate shaft ring & bearing support ring installation. Civic 4WD Wagon
a. Install circlips with tapered end facing out. b. Install intermediate shaft ring and bearing support
ring on the intermediate shaft. On Civic 4WD wagon position as shown in Fig. 6 using a
suitable hammer.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Adjustments
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments
1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, remove wheels, then remove brake pads as outlined in ``Disc
Brakes Section.''
2. Remove grease cap, cotter pin, pin holder and pin holder.
3. Lubricate spindle threads, install spindle nut and torque nut to 18 ft. lbs.
4. Rotate brake disc several revolutions, then torque spindle nut to 18 ft. lbs.
6. Loosen spindle nut until it just breaks free, but does not turn (0 ft. lbs.), then torque nut to 40 ft.
lbs.
7. Install pin holder with slot as close as possible to hole in spindle, tighten nut just enough to align
slot, then install cotter pin and grease cap.
8. Check rotating torque of disc and hub assembly with suitable spring scale.
9. If reading is not 0.9-4 lbs., check for improperly tightened spindle nut or damaged bearings.
10. Reinstall brake pads and wheels, depress and release brake pedal several times to seat pads
against brake disc, then lower vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
3. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels and spindle nut.
4. Remove caliper and wire aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose.
5. Remove brake disc attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching
screw holes to pull disc from hub. When tightening screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent
cocking the brake disc.
7. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod end remover.
8. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way.
9. Using a suitable jawed puller, separate ball joint and lower arm.
10. Remove upper ball joint shield, then cotter pin and nut.
11. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm using a suitable ball joint remover.
12. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off driveshaft.
15. Remove remaining splash guard to knuckle attaching screw, then the splash guard.
16. Remove outboard dust seal and snap ring from steering knuckle, then the outboard inner
bearing race and bearing.
17. Flip knuckle over, then remove inboard dust seal, inboard inner bearing race and bearing.
18. Using a suitable press, remove bearing outer race from steering knuckle.
21. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Figs. 3 and 4, for torque specifications.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 2241
1. Raise and support vehicle, the remove caliper and mounting bracket as outlined in ``Disc Brakes
Section.'' It is not necessary to disconnect brake hose from caliper.
2. Remove grease cap, cotter pin, retainer, nut and washer, then remove disc and hub assembly,
taking care not to drop outer bearing.
3. Remove outer bearing from hub, drive out rear grease seal using suitable punch, then remove
rear bearing.
4. Clean bearings, hub cavity, spindle, washer, nut, pin holder and grease cap with suitable solvent
and blow dry with compressed air. Keep solvent away from brake contact surface. Do not spin dry
bearings as bearings will be damaged.
5. Inspect bearings and races, and replace if damaged, scored, pitted or excessively worn.
a. Drive races from hub, positioning suitable drift in slots behind each race, Fig. 6. b. Position new
race squarely in hub and seat race in hub using suitable driver, Fig. 6.
7. Pack bearings with grease, working grease through wide if bearing with palm of hand, then coat
outer surfaces of rollers with grease.
8. Pack grease in hub cavity behind inner and outer bearing races.
9. Place inner bearing in hub, install new grease seal using suitable driver, then coat seal lip with
thin film of grease.
10. Mount hub assembly on spindle, install outer bearing, washer and nut, then adjust bearings as
outlined.
11. Pack grease cap approximately 1/4 full of grease, install new seal, if equipped, then install new
grease cap.
12. Install caliper assembly and wheels, depress and release brake pedal several times to seat
pads against rotor, then lower vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut >
Component Information > Specifications
Axle Nut: Specifications
TORQUE..............................................................................................................................................
..........................................................Ft.lbs. (N.m)
87-91
All MODELS
Flywheel: Specifications
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Bolts .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................... 101 Nm (74.5 ft. lbs.)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - M/T > Component
Information > Specifications
Fluid - M/T: Specifications
TYPE ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................................................. SG
* Preferred.
4-speed ................................................................................................................................................
.................................. 2.3 liters 4.8 pints 5-speed:
1988-91:
Body Components.
1988 Prelude
1. Turn ignition switch to On position and observe shift indicator light while shifting into each range.
2. If light does not work properly, check linkage and shift indicator and repair as necessary.
3. Turn ignition switch to Off position and connect system checker harness between ECU and
connector, Fig. 23, but disconnect B connector from engine compartment wiring harness only, not
the ECU.
4. Turn ignition switch on and measure voltage between B7 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal.
5. If voltage is not approximately 5 volts, substitute known good ECU and repeat test and, if voltage
is now approximately 5 volts, replace original ECU.
7. If voltage is not below 1 volt, repair open in light green wire between ECU terminal B7 and
combination meter and/or repair open in green wire between combination meter and shift position
console switch.
8. If voltage is below 1 volt, measure voltage between B7 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal in Park
position.
9. If voltage is not below 1 volt, repair open in green/white wire between combination meter and
shift position console switch.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Locations
Body Components.
1988 Prelude
1. Turn ignition switch to On position and observe shift indicator light while shifting into each range.
2. If light does not work properly, check linkage and shift indicator and repair as necessary.
3. Turn ignition switch to Off position and connect system checker harness between ECU and
connector, Fig. 23, but disconnect B connector from engine compartment wiring harness only, not
the ECU.
4. Turn ignition switch on and measure voltage between B7 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal.
5. If voltage is not approximately 5 volts, substitute known good ECU and repeat test and, if voltage
is now approximately 5 volts, replace original ECU.
7. If voltage is not below 1 volt, repair open in light green wire between ECU terminal B7 and
combination meter and/or repair open in green wire between combination meter and shift position
console switch.
8. If voltage is below 1 volt, measure voltage between B7 (+) terminal and A18 (-) terminal in Park
position.
9. If voltage is not below 1 volt, repair open in green/white wire between combination meter and
shift position console switch.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Adjustments
1. Pull up floor mat or carpeting and measure distance between top of pedal and floor as shown in
Fig. 1.
2. Brake pedal height should be as follows: 1984-85 Accord..................... 7.36 inches 1986-88
Accord..................... 8.07 inches 1984-87 Civic Exc. Wagon..... 6.8 inches 1984-87 Civic
Wagon............. 6.6 inches 1985-87 CRX......................... 6.8 inches 1988 Civic & CRX..................
6.02 inches 1984-88 Prelude..................... 7 inches
3. If brake pedal height is not as specified, loosen locknut on brake lamp switch and back-off switch
until it no longer contacts pedal arm.
4. Loosen locknut on pedal pushrod, Fig. 1, rotate pushrod to adjust pedal height, then tighten
locknut while holding position of pushrod.
5. Tighten stop lamp switch against pedal arm stop until brake pedal free travel is zero, back switch
off 1/2 turn, then tighten switch locknut.
6. Ensure pedal free travel is .04 - .2 inch and that stop lamps go out when pedal is released.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Caliper: > 93010 > Feb > 93 > Brake - Rear Caliper Rattle
Brake Caliper: Customer Interest Brake - Rear Caliper Rattle
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
A rattling or clunking noise from the rear suspension area when driving over uneven road surfaces.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Excessive clearance between the caliper slide pins and the caliper bracket.
DIAGNOSIS
1. Inflate the tires to the proper pressures. Overinflation tends to increase the noise.
2. Locate a section of uneven road where the noise is apparent. Drive the car over this road, and
apply the parking brake lightly. If the noise decreases, go to CORRECTIVE ACTION.
PARTS INFORMATION
Rear Caliper Pin and Pad Spring Kit (two required per car) P/N 43065-SF1-305, H/C 4145934
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Flat rate time: 1.5 hours (both sides, includes road test)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Caliper: > 93010 > Feb > 93 > Brake - Rear Caliper Rattle > Page
2294
Replace the forward caliper slide pin and the pad spring on each rear caliper with the parts from
the kit listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
2. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts, then remove the caliper from the caliper bracket.
Suspend the caliper with a piece of wire so as not to strain the brake hose.
3. Remove the forward (black) caliper slide pin from the caliper bracket. Apply the grease (provided
in the kit) to the new pin, then install it in the bracket.
4. Reassemble the caliper with the new pad spring from the kit, then reinstall the caliper on the
caliper bracket.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 on the other rear caliper, then reinstall the rear wheels.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Caliper: > 89019 > Jun > 89 > Brakes - Rear Caliper Rattle
'88-89 ALL
Bulletin No.
89-019
Symptom A rattling or clunking noise from the rear suspension when driving over uneven road
surfaces.
Diagnosis
1. Make sure all tires are properly inflated. Over-inflation may increase the noise.
2. To verify this noise, drive the car and lightly apply the parking brake. If there is less noise, follow
the steps under CORRECTIVE ACTION.
Corrective Action
1. Block the front wheels, then raise and support the rear of the car on safety stands.
3. Remove the two 8 mm caliper mounting bolts then remove the caliper body from the caliper
bracket.
5. Apply a 10 mm length of Honda G40M grease to the tip of each slide pin.
Parts Information
This repair, like any repair performed after warranty expiration, may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work. Use the following claim information if DSM approval is received.
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
A rattling or clunking noise from the rear suspension area when driving over uneven road surfaces.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Excessive clearance between the caliper slide pins and the caliper bracket.
DIAGNOSIS
1. Inflate the tires to the proper pressures. Overinflation tends to increase the noise.
2. Locate a section of uneven road where the noise is apparent. Drive the car over this road, and
apply the parking brake lightly. If the noise decreases, go to CORRECTIVE ACTION.
PARTS INFORMATION
Rear Caliper Pin and Pad Spring Kit (two required per car) P/N 43065-SF1-305, H/C 4145934
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Flat rate time: 1.5 hours (both sides, includes road test)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Caliper: > 93010 > Feb > 93 > Brake - Rear Caliper
Rattle > Page 2305
Replace the forward caliper slide pin and the pad spring on each rear caliper with the parts from
the kit listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
2. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts, then remove the caliper from the caliper bracket.
Suspend the caliper with a piece of wire so as not to strain the brake hose.
3. Remove the forward (black) caliper slide pin from the caliper bracket. Apply the grease (provided
in the kit) to the new pin, then install it in the bracket.
4. Reassemble the caliper with the new pad spring from the kit, then reinstall the caliper on the
caliper bracket.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 on the other rear caliper, then reinstall the rear wheels.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Caliper: > 89019 > Jun > 89 > Brakes - Rear Caliper
Rattle
Brake Caliper: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Rear Caliper Rattle
Model Applicable To
'88-89 ALL
Bulletin No.
89-019
Symptom A rattling or clunking noise from the rear suspension when driving over uneven road
surfaces.
Diagnosis
1. Make sure all tires are properly inflated. Over-inflation may increase the noise.
2. To verify this noise, drive the car and lightly apply the parking brake. If there is less noise, follow
the steps under CORRECTIVE ACTION.
Corrective Action
1. Block the front wheels, then raise and support the rear of the car on safety stands.
3. Remove the two 8 mm caliper mounting bolts then remove the caliper body from the caliper
bracket.
5. Apply a 10 mm length of Honda G40M grease to the tip of each slide pin.
Parts Information
This repair, like any repair performed after warranty expiration, may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work. Use the following claim information if DSM approval is received.
Fig. 11 Front disc brake caliper exploded view. 1988 Prelude W/ carbureted engine
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Front
1. Remove caliper and bracket as outlined, then clean dirt and rust from bracket and outside
caliper.
3. Place block of wood or shop rag in the caliper opposite piston, then carefully remove piston by
applying compressed air to fluid inlet port. Use only enough air pressure to ease piston from caliper
bore.
5. Remove piston seal using non-metallic tool and take care not to mar caliper bore.
7. Remove guide pin dust boots and sleeves from mounting bracket or caliper, as equipped.
8. Clean piston and caliper bore with brake fluid and wipe dry with lint free shop towels.
9. Inspect caliper, piston, mounting bracket for damage and excessive wear, and replace as
needed.
10. Lubricate piston seal and caliper bore with new brake fluid and work seal into caliper groove.
11. Lubricate piston and dust seal with new brake fluid and slide seal over bottom end of piston.
12. Hold piston slightly above caliper bore, then seat bottom ridge of boot in caliper.
13. Ensure piston is square with bore, then press piston into bore and ensure dust boot lip seats in
piston groove.
14. Install new dust boot retaining ring, guide pin sleeves and dust boots and pad spring, as
equipped.
15. Ensure bleeder is clear and free from foreign material, then install bleeder and torque to 6 ft.
lbs.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 2314
1. Remove caliper and bracket as outlined, then clean dirt and rust from bracket and outside of
caliper.
2. Rotate caliper piston counterclockwise and remove piston and dust boot.
Fig. 20 Rear caliper adjusting spring removal & installation. 1988 Prelude
4. Remove piston seal from caliper, taking care not to damage caliper bore.
5. Mount suitable spring compressor in caliper, Fig. 20, compress adjusting spring and remove
circlip.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 2316
6. Slowly release spring compressor, then remove cover, adjusting spring B, spacer, bearing and
adjusting bolt, Fig. 16.
8. Remove parking brake lever return spring, retaining nut, lever cam and dust boot.
9. Clean all components with new brake fluid and wipe dry with lint-free shop towels.
10. Coat parking brake cam boot with suitable lubricant and pack needle bearing cavity with
silicone grease, then install cam boot and cam, taking care not to damage boot when inserting
cam.
11. Install lever and tighten retaining nut, then install return spring.
12. Install new O-ring on piston sleeve and insert pin into cam.
13. Install piston sleeve with hole in bottom of sleeve aligned with pin in cam, and piston sleeve
aligned with holes in caliper.
14. Install new cup on adjusting bolt with groove facing bearing side of bolt.
15. Install bearing, spacer, spring and spring cap over adjusting bolt, then position assembly in
caliper.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front > Page 2317
Fig. 20 Rear caliper adjusting spring removal & installation. 1988 Prelude
16. Install spring compressor, aligning slit in rear caliper guide with tab on spring cover, Fig. 20,
then compress spring until it is fully bottomed in caliper.
17. Remove rear caliper guide, ensure flared ends of spring cover are below snap ring groove, then
install snap ring and remove spring compressor.
18. Install adjusting nut, spring A and washer in piston and secure assembly with snap ring.
19. Coat new piston seal and dust boot with silicone grease and install seals in caliper, ensuring
that seals are properly seated in caliper grooves.
20. Coat outside of piston with suitable lubricant, then install piston on adjusting bolt, rotating piston
clockwise until fully seated.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Improved Rear Pads
Applicable To ALL
Two types of rear brake pad are available for 1988-91 Preludes. One type offers improved wear
and the other is less likely to make noise. When replacing the rear brake pads, install the type of
brake pad that suits the individual driver's needs.
The improved wear brake pads are stamped with a manufacturer's ID number: NBK N601FG.
The low noise brake pads are stamped with a manufacturer's ID number: JB D70FE.
To minimize "squeal" apply Molykote M77 thinly and evenly to the backs of the pads and to both
sides of the shims, without contaminating the friction material.
Low noise rear brake pads (JB D70FE) H/C 3306628, P/N 43022-SF1-010
Improved wear rear brake pads (NBK N601FG). H/C 3973823, P/N 43022-SF1-800.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Improved Rear Pads > Page 2322
Applicable To ALL
Two types of front brake pad are available for 1988-90 Preludes. One type offers improved wear
while the other is less likely to make noise. When replacing front brake pads, install whichever
brake pad suits the individual driver's needs.
^ The improved-wear brake pad is stamped with a manufacturer's ID number: JB KF50FE for Si
and JB KF55FE for the S model.
^ The low-noise brake pad is stamped with a manufacturer's ID number: NS1 23 EE for both the Si
and S models.
NOTE: The surface finish of a used disc can cause noise with the low noise (NS1 23 EE) pad.
Refinish each disc with the Kwik-Way Kwik Lathe and Power Feed, or the Snap-On Front Disc
Brake Lathe and Power Feed before installing the low noise-type pad.
Apply Molykote M77 thinly and evenly to the backs of the pads, and to the shims, without
contaminating the friction material.
PARTS INFORMATION:
Improved wear front brake pads (JB KF50FE and JB KF55FE, original equipment on vehicles up to
BA4 ... KC065626).
S P/N 45022-SF1-017
H/C 3200573
Low-noise front brake pads (NS123 EE, original equipment on vehicles after BA4 ... KC06526).
Operation Number: 410150 replace pads only 410820 resurface discs (includes pad replacement)
Flat rate time: 1.0 replace pads 1.6 resurface discs (Includes pad replacement)
Fig. 8 Front disc brake caliper exploded view. Prelude w/carbureted engine, 1984-87 Civic Wagon
& 1985-87 CRX Exc. HF
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2325
Fig. 11 Front disc brake caliper exploded view. 1988 Prelude W/ carbureted engine
FRONT
4. Remove pad spring from caliper and retainers from mounting bracket, noting installation position.
5. Apply suitable anti-seize compound to outer edges of brake pad backing and apply thin film of
high temperature brake grease to back of pad.
6. Position pad retainers in caliper bracket, then install brake pads and shim. Install inner pad with
wear indicator toward inside.
7. Loosen caliper bleed screw and compress piston so caliper will fit over brake pads, then tighten
bleed screw.
8. Position pad spring in caliper, rotate caliper over brake pads and install caliper pin, then torque
pin to 13 ft. lbs.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2326
Fig. 12 Front disc brake caliper exploded view. 1986-88 Accord & 1984-87 Prelude w/fuel injected
engine
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2327
Fig. 13 Front disc brake caliper exploded view. 1988 Prelude W/ fuel injected engine
3. Remove caliper bolt, Figs. 12 and 13, and pivot caliper up away from brake pads.
4. Remove pad shim, pad retainers and brake pads, noting installation position.
5. Apply anti-seize compound to back of brake pads and both sides of pad shim.
6. Position pad retainers in caliper bracket, then install brake pads and outer pad shim. Install
brake pad with wear indicator on inside.
7. Loosen caliper bleed screw and compress piston so caliper will fit over brake pads, then tighten
bleed screw.
8. Rotate caliper down over brake pads, install caliper bolt and torque bolt to 33 ft. lbs.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2328
Fig. 14 Rear disc brake caliper exploded view. 1984-87 Prelude w/carbureted engine
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2329
Fig. 15 Rear disc brake caliper exploded view. 1986-87 Prelude w/fuel injected engine
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2330
REAR
1984-88 Prelude
7. Rotate caliper piston fully clockwise into caliper bore. Align piston cut-out with inner brake pad
tab by turning piston counterclockwise.
9. Depress brake pedal several times to seat pads, then check brake fluid and replenish as
necessary.
00-088
(Supersedes 00-088, dated October 6, 2006, to revise the information marked with the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
American Honda does not allow replacement of brake discs under warranty unless the brake disc
is beyond its service limit for refinishing. If the brake disc is within its service limit, you must refinish
it. Maximum refinishing limits may be found in the Conventional Brakes section of the appropriate
service manual.
*Refinish brake discs only when they are scored or out of specification for runout or parallelism.
See the appropriate service manual for the specifications.*
American Honda requires refinishing of the front brake discs with an on-car brake lathe that mounts
to the steering knuckle. Use of an on-car, steering knuckle- mounted lathe is critical because it
corrects runout of the hub and disc as an assembly. Experience has shown that very small
amounts of runout, not felt as brake pulsation initially, will grow and become noticeable as the discs
are subjected to heat and wear over time and mileage. Two on-car brake lathes are recommended.
The Kwik-Lathe, model number KWY-108000501, is supported with automatic shipments of
adapters for new models, when required. The Accu-turn On-car Brake Lathe, model
ACCHONOCLPKG, is also recommended.
A power driver is required for the 82000 and is highly recommended for all other models. The
Kwik-Lathe power driver model number is KWY-108012005; the Accu-turn lathe includes a power
driver. Here are some advantages of using power drivers:
^ The disc is rotated at the optimum speed for a smooth and consistent cut.
^ There is no need to climb in and out of the vehicle to start and stop the engine or to shift the
transmission.
^ There is no waiting for the engine to return to idle and no concern about engine speed changes
that can adversely affect brake disc cut and finish.
ORDERING INFORMATION
Order brake lathes and power drivers through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To place
an order, call or use the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program
Catalog. Phone lines are open Monday thru Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Central Time. You
can also order online through the Interactive Network (iN). Click on Service, Tool and Equipment,
and then Online Catalog. Click on Alignment, Wheel, and Brake Equipment, and then On-Car
Brake Lathes.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
The following guidelines show the Kwik-Way lathe setup, the Accu-turn lathe setup is similar.
Put the transmission in Neutral. If you are not using the power drive system, start the engine, and
let it warm up to its normal operating temperature so the idle speed will stabilize to its lowest rpm.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 2335
Raise the vehicle on a lift.
Check for loose wheel bearings. You must replace loose wheel bearings before you refinish the
brake discs. If you do not, the brake lathe will not correct for brake disc runout, resulting in an
uneven finish and brake pulsation.
Remove the front wheels, then reinstall the wheel nuts with flat washers to compensate for the
removed wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to the required specification (see the appropriate service
manual).
Remove the caliper assembly. Use a wire or a S-hook to hold the caliper to the spring or damper
tower. Do not kink the brake hose or use it to support the caliper. If you are not using the power
drive system and the vehicle has ICS or VSA, make sure you install a brake pad spreader between
the pads on the hanging caliper. Also, make sure the ICS or VSA is turned off anytime the engine
is started. If the system is not turned off, the brakes could activate, causing the brake pads on the
hanging caliper to hit each other or the caliper pistons to fall out.
Install the vibration damper on the brake disc. If you are not using the power drive system, make
sure you install the protective band around the wheel nuts.
If you are not using the power drive system, use a fabric tie-down strap to secure the brake disc
that is opposite to the one you are refinishing. If you are working on a Prelude with ATTS, do not
use a tie-down strap; let both wheels turn freely.
Remove the tool bed from the brake lathe, then mount the brake lathe to the steering knuckle with
a Honda 1-piece speed mount. These mounts provide quicker, more accurate mounting, and can
be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 2336
Honda 1-Piece Speed Mounts
P/N KWY-108006000 (for most models), P/N KWY-108007500 (Odysseys, Pilots, and Ridgelines
with two-piston calipers)
1. Make sure the drive motor assembly on the power drive system is level with the brake disc.
2. Attach the mounting yoke to the brake disc, and secure it with one of the wheel nuts. Torque the
wheel nut to the required specification (see the
4. Set the lower toggle switch on the drive motor assembly to FWD (counterclockwise rotation) or
REV (clockwise rotation).
Use Kwik-Way cutting bits, P/N KWY-109109223, and the holding screws that come with them.
These bits are stamped KW and are available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
(see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Before you use the brake lathe, inspect the tips of the cutting bits with a magnifying glass to make
sure the tips are not worn out. Each bit has three tips. If a tip is worn, rotate the bit, and use a new
tip. A worn tip produces a poor finish and may cause chattering.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 2338
Reinstall the tool bed on the brake lathe with the top of the cutting bits facing up and the feed
knobs facing down. Adjust the tool bed until the brake disc is centered between the cutting bits. For
proper refinishing, the brake disc must turn toward the top of the cutting bits.
Do not set the cutting depth on the brake lathe to more than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.). This is two
divisions on the cutting knob. Make sure you start your cut at least 3 mm (0.12 in.) beyond the worn
area on the brake disc.
If you are cutting larger diameter brake discs, make sure you use the 150 cutting bit holders. These
bit holders, available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING
INFORMATION), supersede the original bit holders and provide better cutting coverage for larger
diameter brake discs. Each bit holder is clearly marked for proper installation on the tool holder.
To get the smoothest cut and the best brake disc finish, always use the slowest feed speed on the
tool bed feed motor. Place the drive belt on the smallest pulley of the feed motor and on the largest
pulley of the hand wheel.
Make sure the lower toggle switch on the power drive system drive motor assembly is set to the
proper rotation to turn the brake disc toward the top of the cutting bits. Plug the tool bed feed motor
into the power outlet on the drive motor assembly, then turn on the drive motor with the upper
toggle switch on the assembly.
If you are not using the power drive system, make sure the transmission is in 1st gear (2nd gear on
Preludes with ATTS) or Reverse and the engine is idling, but not at a fast idle. If the transmission
and engine are at higher gears and speeds, you will damage the cutting bits.
Turn on the tool bed feed motor, and snap it into place; there should be tension on the feed belt.
Cut the brake disc until the cutting bits clear the outer edge of the disc. The cutting bits should
produce a smooth, consistent finish with no chatter marks or grooves.
If the disc did not clean up entirely on the first pass, reset the brake lathe and make a second pass.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 2339
Remove the vibration damper and the protective band (if used). Use a micrometer to measure the
thickness of the brake disc. Make sure the thickness is within the service manual specifications.
Clean the brake disc with soapy water or brake cleaner, then wipe it dry. Use a vacuum cleaner to
remove any dust or chips, but do not use compressed air.
Unplug the tool bed feed motor from the drive motor assembly, and remove the mounting yoke
from the brake disc. Remove the speed mount from the steering knuckle.
Apply a small amount of Molykote 77 grease to the brake pad shims. Reinstall the caliper
assembly. (If you did not use the power drive system, use the brake pad spreader to push the
pistons back into the caliper.)
Torque the nuts and bolts to the required specification (see the appropriate service manual).
Refinish the other front brake disc using the same guidelines.
Check the brake fluid level, then test-drive the vehicle to make sure the brake pedal is firm and
does not pulsate. Lightly apply the brakes about 20 times during the test-drive to seat the brake
pads.
It is possible to use an on-car lathe on some models if the rear caliper mounts are low enough to
clear the vehicle body. A power driver is needed for front drive models. Refinish rear brake discs on
bench-mounted equipment if necessary.
Follow the same guidelines you used for refinishing front brake discs, noting these differences:
^ Mount the brake lathe to the rear knuckle with the Honda 2-Piece Adapter (P/N KWY-1
08102504). You can order the 2-piece adapter through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
(see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 2340
Model ALL
[NEW]
* Brake disc replacement under warranty is not allowed unless the disc is beyond its maximum
refinishing limit. If a disc is within its limit, it must be refinished. For front and rear brake disc
maximum refinishing limit specifications, refer to section 19 of the appropriate service manual
(section 5A2 for Passports).
Front Brake Discs Whenever a front brake disc is replaced, it must be refinished on the car.
Refinishing new front discs is included in the flat-rate time for disc replacement.
To avoid brake vibration, always refinish front brake discs on the car with the Kwik-Way or Snap-on
brake lathe. Purchasing information for these lathes is in Service Bulletin 87-034, Front Brake Disc
Refinishing Equipment, filed in the Special Tools section.
Follow these tips to get the best results from your on-car brake lathe. (For detailed instructions,
refer to the lathe's operating manual.)
^ On 2WD vehicles, lift both front wheels off the ground. On 4WD vehicles, lift all four wheels off
the ground.
^ On 4WD Passports, make sure that the hub nut is properly adjusted (with no end play) and the
transmission is in 4H.
^ On Preludes with ATTS (Active Torque Transfer System), let both front wheels turn freely On
other vehicles, use a tie-down strap to secure the disc opposite to the one being refinished.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 2341
^ Install the vibration damper on the disc, and install the protective band around the wheel lug nuts.
^ Mount the lathe to the caliper bracket with Honda Quick-Mount Adapters. The adapters can be
ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program; contact Special Tools at 800-346-6327.
The advantage of using the adapters is that they don't have to be removed from the lathe once
they are installed.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 2342
^ Use the aligning bar tool to ensure that the lathe moves square to the center of the brake disc.
The disc should turn toward the cutting bits.
^ Use "Kwik-Way" cutting bits (P/N KW109-1092-23, H/C 5418866) and the holding screws that
come with them. These bits are stamped "K W." They can be purchased from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures, or by contacting a Kwik-Way distributor. The Kwik-Way
P/N is 109-1092-23.
^ Before using the lathe, inspect the tips of the cutting bits with a magnifying glass to make sure
they are not worn out. Each bit has three tips.
^ Do not set the cutting depth on the lathe to more than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.) This is two divisions on
the cutting knob.
^ To refinish, the transmission must be in first gear (D3 or D4, if the shift selector doesn't have a
first gear position; second gear on Preludes with ATTS), with the engine at idle (not fast idle). If the
transmission and engine are at higher gears and speeds, you will damage the cutting bits.
Refinish rear brake discs off the car with conventional disc refinishing equipment.
Prelude S Prelude Si
FRONT
1. Raise and support front of vehicle and remove wheel and tire assembly.
4. Install two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into threaded holes and turn bolts evenly to pull rotor off.
REAR
1. Remove caliper to mounting bracket attaching bolts, then remove caliper and suspend from
suspension with brake hose attached.
2. Remove two caliper mounting bracket attaching bolts, then remove mounting bracket.
3. Remove two 6 mm screws attaching brake rotor to hub, then remove brake rotor, Fig. 3. If rotor
is difficult to remove, insert two 8 mm bolts into threaded hole located rotor hub. Tighten the two
bolts alternately until the brake rotor can be removed.
4. Reverse procedure to install. Torque caliper mounting bracket and caliper mounting bolts to 16
ft. lbs.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Caliper: > 93010 > Feb > 93 > Brake - Rear Caliper
Rattle
Brake Caliper: Customer Interest Brake - Rear Caliper Rattle
Bulletin No. 93-010
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
A rattling or clunking noise from the rear suspension area when driving over uneven road surfaces.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Excessive clearance between the caliper slide pins and the caliper bracket.
DIAGNOSIS
1. Inflate the tires to the proper pressures. Overinflation tends to increase the noise.
2. Locate a section of uneven road where the noise is apparent. Drive the car over this road, and
apply the parking brake lightly. If the noise decreases, go to CORRECTIVE ACTION.
PARTS INFORMATION
Rear Caliper Pin and Pad Spring Kit (two required per car) P/N 43065-SF1-305, H/C 4145934
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Flat rate time: 1.5 hours (both sides, includes road test)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Caliper: > 93010 > Feb > 93 > Brake - Rear Caliper
Rattle > Page 2354
Replace the forward caliper slide pin and the pad spring on each rear caliper with the parts from
the kit listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
2. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts, then remove the caliper from the caliper bracket.
Suspend the caliper with a piece of wire so as not to strain the brake hose.
3. Remove the forward (black) caliper slide pin from the caliper bracket. Apply the grease (provided
in the kit) to the new pin, then install it in the bracket.
4. Reassemble the caliper with the new pad spring from the kit, then reinstall the caliper on the
caliper bracket.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 on the other rear caliper, then reinstall the rear wheels.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Caliper: > 89019 > Jun > 89 > Brakes - Rear
Caliper Rattle
Brake Caliper: Customer Interest Brakes - Rear Caliper Rattle
Model Applicable To
'88-89 ALL
Bulletin No.
89-019
Symptom A rattling or clunking noise from the rear suspension when driving over uneven road
surfaces.
Diagnosis
1. Make sure all tires are properly inflated. Over-inflation may increase the noise.
2. To verify this noise, drive the car and lightly apply the parking brake. If there is less noise, follow
the steps under CORRECTIVE ACTION.
Corrective Action
1. Block the front wheels, then raise and support the rear of the car on safety stands.
3. Remove the two 8 mm caliper mounting bolts then remove the caliper body from the caliper
bracket.
5. Apply a 10 mm length of Honda G40M grease to the tip of each slide pin.
Parts Information
This repair, like any repair performed after warranty expiration, may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work. Use the following claim information if DSM approval is received.
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
A rattling or clunking noise from the rear suspension area when driving over uneven road surfaces.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Excessive clearance between the caliper slide pins and the caliper bracket.
DIAGNOSIS
1. Inflate the tires to the proper pressures. Overinflation tends to increase the noise.
2. Locate a section of uneven road where the noise is apparent. Drive the car over this road, and
apply the parking brake lightly. If the noise decreases, go to CORRECTIVE ACTION.
PARTS INFORMATION
Rear Caliper Pin and Pad Spring Kit (two required per car) P/N 43065-SF1-305, H/C 4145934
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Flat rate time: 1.5 hours (both sides, includes road test)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Caliper: > 93010 > Feb > 93 > Brake -
Rear Caliper Rattle > Page 2365
Replace the forward caliper slide pin and the pad spring on each rear caliper with the parts from
the kit listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
2. Remove the two caliper mounting bolts, then remove the caliper from the caliper bracket.
Suspend the caliper with a piece of wire so as not to strain the brake hose.
3. Remove the forward (black) caliper slide pin from the caliper bracket. Apply the grease (provided
in the kit) to the new pin, then install it in the bracket.
4. Reassemble the caliper with the new pad spring from the kit, then reinstall the caliper on the
caliper bracket.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 on the other rear caliper, then reinstall the rear wheels.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Caliper: > 89019 > Jun > 89 > Brakes -
Rear Caliper Rattle
Brake Caliper: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Rear Caliper Rattle
Model Applicable To
'88-89 ALL
Bulletin No.
89-019
Symptom A rattling or clunking noise from the rear suspension when driving over uneven road
surfaces.
Diagnosis
1. Make sure all tires are properly inflated. Over-inflation may increase the noise.
2. To verify this noise, drive the car and lightly apply the parking brake. If there is less noise, follow
the steps under CORRECTIVE ACTION.
Corrective Action
1. Block the front wheels, then raise and support the rear of the car on safety stands.
3. Remove the two 8 mm caliper mounting bolts then remove the caliper body from the caliper
bracket.
5. Apply a 10 mm length of Honda G40M grease to the tip of each slide pin.
Parts Information
This repair, like any repair performed after warranty expiration, may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work. Use the following claim information if DSM approval is received.
Fig. 11 Front disc brake caliper exploded view. 1988 Prelude W/ carbureted engine
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Front
1. Remove caliper and bracket as outlined, then clean dirt and rust from bracket and outside
caliper.
3. Place block of wood or shop rag in the caliper opposite piston, then carefully remove piston by
applying compressed air to fluid inlet port. Use only enough air pressure to ease piston from caliper
bore.
5. Remove piston seal using non-metallic tool and take care not to mar caliper bore.
7. Remove guide pin dust boots and sleeves from mounting bracket or caliper, as equipped.
8. Clean piston and caliper bore with brake fluid and wipe dry with lint free shop towels.
9. Inspect caliper, piston, mounting bracket for damage and excessive wear, and replace as
needed.
10. Lubricate piston seal and caliper bore with new brake fluid and work seal into caliper groove.
11. Lubricate piston and dust seal with new brake fluid and slide seal over bottom end of piston.
12. Hold piston slightly above caliper bore, then seat bottom ridge of boot in caliper.
13. Ensure piston is square with bore, then press piston into bore and ensure dust boot lip seats in
piston groove.
14. Install new dust boot retaining ring, guide pin sleeves and dust boots and pad spring, as
equipped.
15. Ensure bleeder is clear and free from foreign material, then install bleeder and torque to 6 ft.
lbs.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 2374
1. Remove caliper and bracket as outlined, then clean dirt and rust from bracket and outside of
caliper.
2. Rotate caliper piston counterclockwise and remove piston and dust boot.
Fig. 20 Rear caliper adjusting spring removal & installation. 1988 Prelude
4. Remove piston seal from caliper, taking care not to damage caliper bore.
5. Mount suitable spring compressor in caliper, Fig. 20, compress adjusting spring and remove
circlip.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 2376
6. Slowly release spring compressor, then remove cover, adjusting spring B, spacer, bearing and
adjusting bolt, Fig. 16.
8. Remove parking brake lever return spring, retaining nut, lever cam and dust boot.
9. Clean all components with new brake fluid and wipe dry with lint-free shop towels.
10. Coat parking brake cam boot with suitable lubricant and pack needle bearing cavity with
silicone grease, then install cam boot and cam, taking care not to damage boot when inserting
cam.
11. Install lever and tighten retaining nut, then install return spring.
12. Install new O-ring on piston sleeve and insert pin into cam.
13. Install piston sleeve with hole in bottom of sleeve aligned with pin in cam, and piston sleeve
aligned with holes in caliper.
14. Install new cup on adjusting bolt with groove facing bearing side of bolt.
15. Install bearing, spacer, spring and spring cap over adjusting bolt, then position assembly in
caliper.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 2377
Fig. 20 Rear caliper adjusting spring removal & installation. 1988 Prelude
16. Install spring compressor, aligning slit in rear caliper guide with tab on spring cover, Fig. 20,
then compress spring until it is fully bottomed in caliper.
17. Remove rear caliper guide, ensure flared ends of spring cover are below snap ring groove, then
install snap ring and remove spring compressor.
18. Install adjusting nut, spring A and washer in piston and secure assembly with snap ring.
19. Coat new piston seal and dust boot with silicone grease and install seals in caliper, ensuring
that seals are properly seated in caliper grooves.
20. Coat outside of piston with suitable lubricant, then install piston on adjusting bolt, rotating piston
clockwise until fully seated.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair
3. Remove two attaching bolts holding master cylinder to the vacuum booster unit, and remove
master cylinder.
4. Tighten equalizer adjusting nut until rear wheels drag slightly when turned.
5. Release brake lever and check that rear wheels do not drag when turned. Readjust if necessary.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In
Ignition Switch
Can't Turn Ignition Switch? Check for Locked Steering
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2391
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
6. On all models, position suitable tool into hole on lock cylinder housing and depress pin, then
remove lock cylinder from housing.
INSTALLATION
a. Place ignition lock cylinder in the LOCK position. b. Rotate key until it is almost at the ACC
position, then insert lock cylinder until pin contacts housing. c. Rotate key to ACC position, then
push pin in and insert lock cylinder into housing until pin clicks into place.
a. Place ingnition lock cylinder in the O position. b. Rotate key until it is almost at the I position,
then insert lock cylinder until pin contacts housing. c. Rotate key to I position, then push pin in and
insert lock cylinder into housing until pin clicks into place.
4. Remove the two bolts holding switch to selector lever control assembly and remove switch.
5. To install, position switch slider to Neutral position on all except Accord and Prelude models. On
Accord and Prelude models, position switch slider in Park position.
6. Ensure gear selector lever is in Neutral position on all except 1984-86 Accord and 1984-87
Prelude models. On 1984-86 Accord and 1984-87 Prelude models, position gear selector lever in
Park position.
7. Position switch with selector lever actuator rod inserted in its slot in switch slider.
8. Hook forward end of switch bracket over forward end of selector lever control assembly and
tighten attaching bolts.
Model Applicable To
JAN 1990
'88-89 Prelude Low Charge Rate (Supersedes 89-028, dated December 15, 1989) SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
- Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure. '88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the '88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 89028 > Jan > 90 > Battery - Repeated Discharge > Page 2403
'88 Prelude:
'89 Prelude
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model
Bulletin No.
89-028
NOV 17,1989
SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
^ Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure.
'88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
PARTS INFORMATION
'88 Prelude:
Kit includes:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 89028 > Nov > 89 > Battery - Discharges Repeatedly > Page 2408
* ACG Pulley 31141-PK1-305
'89 Prelude
H/C:3378627
Kit includes:
Out-of-warranty: This repair, like any other repair performed after warranty expiration, may be
eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration,
and get the DSM's decision, before starting work. Operation number:
118105
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
09-045
(Supersedes 09-027, dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE VERSION, the method to check the current software was updated.*
INTRODUCTION
The software for the ED-18 Battery Analyzer (or tester) is updated periodically to fix software bugs
and enhance the tool's function. To help you update the ED-18 tester more quickly, American
Honda no longer distributes CDs for the tester. You can now use the Midtronics ED-18 update
wizard to download software and firmware to your ED-18 tester using a PC and the Internet. It is
extremely important to use the latest ED-18 software to ensure that the current battery testing
procedures are used.
Honda introduced a new policy to ensure that ED-18 testers are updated promptly. The ED-18
software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification from an iN message or other
Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any battery replacements may not be
covered under warranty.
^ ED-18 Battery Analyzer: ED-18 Version 1: P/N INBED18LLH ED-18 Version 2: P/N INB17191840
^ 7/64" hex wrench: P/N INBi7191270* *Both the R5232 interface cable and the hex wrench were
included with the ED-18 update that was shipped to dealerships in November 2008.
^ Internet access
^ An IBM-compatible PC:
- CD ROM
- R5232 (9 pin) serial port, or an R5232 to USB Adapter (P/N MTRA164) (Some newer computers
do not have an R5232 port. You will need to order the R5232 to USB adapter to update your ED-18
testers.)
To order the ED-18 Battery Analyzer version 2, the interface cable, the R5232 to USB adapter, or
the hex wrench, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service
Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
NOTE:
*The current software version is listed online. Go to the iN (select Service > Service Bay >
Diagnostic Tools Software Versions).*
Info > Version. The version number is located near the top of the version screen.
To check the ED-18 version 2 software:
^ Turn on the tester, and read the version number on the screen. It should appear for about 3
seconds.
^ Or, you can click on: Language > Options > Info > Version. The version number is located near
the top of the version screen.
1. Make sure the ED-18 is off, then detach the printer by using the hex wrench to remove the two
screws at the bottom of the printer. Pull the printer
straight out from the ED-18 to avoid damaging the connector terminals.
2. Connect the R8232 interface cable to the ED-18 where the printer was connected, then connect
the interface cable to your PC.
NOTE:
If your computer doesn't have an R8232 serial port, use the R8232 to USB adapter.
4. Online, go to
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Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 09-045 > Feb > 11 > Electrical - ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Info. > Page 2415
5. Enter your username and password, then click the Login button.
NOTE:
7. Fill in your dealer number, the service manager's name, and the ED-18 serial number(s). The
dealer name, the dealer address, and the dealer phone
8. You should see the image of your ED-18 tester again. Click on the highlighted Honda ED-18 V2
Software Update link.
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Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 09-045 > Feb > 11 > Electrical - ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Info. > Page 2416
10. A file will be downloaded to your computer. After it is finished, an Internet Explorer - Security
Warning screen appears. Select Run.
NOTE:
Depending on your network setup, you may see more warning screens than are shown here.
12. Before using the Midtronics update utility, make sure your computer port settings are correct.
Click on: My Computer > Control Panel > System >
If you are using an RS232 to USB adapter, make sure to plug it in before checking the port
settings.
Expand Ports, and check the communications port number. The communications port number
should match the COMM number in the Midtronics update utility. If the numbers do not match, click
on the arrows next to the COMM windows in the Midtronics update utility, and change the number
to match the computer system's port number.
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Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 09-045 > Feb > 11 > Electrical - ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Info. > Page 2418
Make sure this communications port number matches the COMM number on the update. If it does
not, change the number on the update.
13. Click on Start to begin the update, which takes about a minute. A progress bar appears. Wait
until you get a message indicating the update was
successful.
NOTE:
^ If the clamps come off the battery, or the R8232 interface cable comes loose, turn the ED-18 off,
then back on. When the logon screen appears on the ED-18, click on Start to restart the update.
^ If the error message Flash not erased appears, replace the AA batteries in the ED-18, and try the
update again.
15. Click on Quit on the ED-18 update. Make sure the message UPDATE COMPLETE appears on
the ED-18 tester.
17. Confirm that the software on the ED-18 tester is updated to the software version listed under
SOFTWARE VERSION.
NOTE:
If you have any problems updating the ED-18, call Midtronics at 866-592-8054.
19. If you have more than one ED-18, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
20. Once all ED-18s are updated, store the R5232 interface cable and the hex wrench in a safe
location for future updates.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 09-060 > Feb > 11 > Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info.
Battery: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info.
09-060
(Supersedes 09-060, dated January 19, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
INTRODUCTION
The software for the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station is updated periodically to fix software bugs
and enhance the tool's function. You can now use the Midtronics GR8 update wizard to download
software and firmware to your GR8 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the
latest GR8 software to ensure that the current battery testing and diagnostic procedures are used.
Honda introduced a new policy to ensure that GR8 testers are updated promptly. The GR8
software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification from an iN message or other
Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any battery replacements may not be
covered under warranty.
^ USB-to-mini-USB cable (this cable came with the GR8): Midtronics P/N A128
^ Internet access
To order the GR8 Diagnostic Station, or the USB-to-mini-USB cable, go to the Honda Tool and
Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online
Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The current software version is listed online. Go to the iN (select Service > Service Bay >
Diagnostic Tools Software Versions).
The update should take 5-10 minutes. Make sure that the update is not interrupted. If the update is
interrupted, it could damage the GR8 and require you to send the GR8 to Midtronics for repair. This
repair is not covered by warranty.
1. Make sure the GR8 is off and the SD card is removed.
2. Online, go to www.midtronics.com/home/clientlogin/clientlogin.aspx:
3. Enter your username and password, then click the Login button.
Username: hondagr8
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Password: hondagr8
4. You should see an image of the GR8 tester. Click on the highlighted Update Software link under
the image.
5. Fill in your dealer number, the service manager's name, and the GR8 serial number(s). The
dealer name, the dealer address, and the dealer phone
6. You should see the image of the GR8 tester again. Click on the highlighted Honda GR8
Software Update link.
NOTE:
Depending on your network setup, you may see more warning screens than are shown here.
*9. The Midtronics Update Wizard appears. Refer to SOFTWARE INFORMATION to find the
current software version.*
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Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 09-060 > Feb > 11 > Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. >
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* NOTE:
If the wrong software file appears or is not shown, click Change MUP File, and select the correct
software version.*
10. Turn on the GR8, and follow the Update Wizard on-screen instructions.
11. When the update is complete, the Update Results screen appears, indicating the update was
successful. Click Finish to close the Update Wizard.
12. Turn the GR8 off for 10 seconds. Reinstall the SD card, then turn the GR8 on, and confirm that
the software is updated to the software version
13. If an error message appears anytime during the update, follow the on-screen instructions, and
try updating the GR8 again. If the error message still
does not go away, or if you have any problems updating the GR8, call Midtronics.
14. If you have more than one GR8, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
15. Once all GR8s are updated, store the USB-to-mini-USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information
Battery: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information
88-023
(Supersedes 88-023, dated September 12, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black
bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*^ Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, battery claim Error Codes were added to some
Warranty Requirements
^ The 2005 Model Year and Later battery coverage section was changed to 2005-10 Model Year
Vehicles.*
BACKGROUND
Maintaining batteries in vehicles is an important part of ensuring a battery's operating life. American
Honda recommends using the ED-18 and GR8 to check and maintain batteries. Refer to this
bulletin for:
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ ED-18 Battery Analyzer (Version 1 or 2): ED-18 Version 1: P/N INBEDi8LLH ED-18 Version 2:
P/N INB17191840
NOTE:
Tool Requirements
The GR8 and ED-18 software must be updated within 3 days of a new software update release.
Refer to the applicable service bulletins for more information:
Warranty Requirements
The 10-digit test code must be included on a battery replacement claim. Refer to WARRANTY
CLAIM INFORMATION.
ORDERING INFORMATION
To order the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station or the ED-18-2 Battery Analyzer, go to the Honda Tool
and Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment Program >
Online Catalog), or call.
NOTE:
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Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information >
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For more information about documenting the scheduled battery checks, refer to Service Bulletin
89-003, Battery Maintenance at Dealers.
ED-18 Battery Analyzer:
NOTE:
Keep a printout of every battery test. Your warranty claim may be rejected unless you show that the
battery was properly maintained.
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ Check the condition of the battery and its state-of-charge when a vehicle comes in for scheduled
maintenance.
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ When the ED-18 or GR8 displays Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace, it provides a 10-digit
code that must be included with the warranty
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the ED-18 user's manual.
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and the ED-18 updated to the most current software.
The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim may not
be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for more
information.
4. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
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Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information >
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5. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
6. Use the arrow or number keys to select FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE: All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select
another battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
7. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the ED-18 analyzer result
may be wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
8. Measure the battery temperature by placing the analyzer's IR temperature sensor within 1 to 2
inches of the top or side of the battery. (The arrow on
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Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information >
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the top of the analyzer's housing indicates the sensor's location.) When the measured temperature
on the display stabilizes, press Enter.
9. The analyzer displays the battery's current condition under RESULTS. The screen below shows
one of four possible battery conditions, the battery's
measured voltage, and the CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph that
represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70% of its charge, 85% of its capacity, and requires no
action.
^ GR8 Diagnostic Needed - The battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), and the
condition of the battery is unknown. Use the GR8 to charge the battery and properly diagnose it.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information >
Page 2434
^ Replace Battery - The battery condition is poor. Replace it.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is an internal problem with the battery. Replace it.
11. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the analyzer. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
NOTE:
^ Use the GR8 diagnostic mode when the ED-18 indicates GR8 DIAGNOSTIC NEEDED.
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the GR8 instruction manual;
besides the one that comes with the GR8, the GR8 instruction manual is also available online.
Select GENERAL PUBLICATIONS, select Tool Information, then select GR8-1100P Battery
Diagnostic Station Instruction Manual from the list.
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Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information >
Page 2435
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and that the GR8 is updated to the most current
software. The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim
may not be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for
more information.
5. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information >
Page 2436
6. Use the arrow keys to select either DEALER INVENTORY or CUSTOMER VEHICLE, then press
Enter.
7. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
8. Use the arrow or number keys to select FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE:
All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select another
battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
9. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the GR8 result may be
wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
10. The screen changes to a progress bar while the GR8 tests the battery.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information >
Page 2437
11. If the battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), or the condition of the battery is
unknown, the GR8 automatically starts charging
the battery and diagnosing it.
NOTE:
^ The GR8 often states that charging and testing time is about 3 hours. Most actual charging and
diagnostic times range between 15-25 minutes.
^ Battery charging times are affected by how the battery is discharged. If the battery discharged
quickly (for example, the headlights were left on), the battery will recharge quickly. However, if the
battery discharged slowly (for example, the battery was not checked for a very long time), it will
take a lot longer to recharge it.
12. After the GR8 completes its diagnosis, it displays the battery's current condition. The screen
shows one of three possible battery conditions, the
battery's measured voltage, and the CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph
that represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70% of its charge and requires no action.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information >
Page 2438
^ Replace Battery - The battery condition is poor. Replace it.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is a problem with the battery. Replace it.
14. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the tester. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information >
Page 2439
USING THE GR8 DIAGNOSTIC STATION - ED-18 BATTERY TEST FUNCTION
NOTE:
^ The ED-18 battery test function in the GR8 should be used only when your ED-18 is out of
service.
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the GR8 instruction manual besides
the one that comes with the GR8, the GR8 instruction manual is also available online. Select
GENERAL PUBLICATIONS, select Tool Information, then select Honda GR8-1100P Battery
Diagnostic Station Instruction Manual from the list.
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and the GR8 updated to the most current software.
The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim may not
be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for more
information.
7. Use the arrow keys to select either DEALER INVENTORY or CUSTOMER VEHICLE, then press
Enter.
8. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
9. Use the arrow or number keys to select the FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE:
All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select another
battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information >
Page 2441
10. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the battery test result may be
wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
11. The screen changes to a progress bar while the GR8 tests the battery.
12. If the battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), or the condition of the battery is
unknown, the GR8 automatically changes to its
NOTE:
^ The GR8 often states that charging and testing time is about 3 hours. Most actual charging and
diagnostic times range between 15-25 minutes.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information >
Page 2442
^ Battery charging times are affected by how the battery is discharged. If the battery discharged
quickly (for example, the headlights were left on), the battery will recharge quickly. However, if the
battery discharged slowly (for example, the battery was not checked for a very long time), it will
take a lot longer to recharge it.
13. The tester displays the battery's current condition. The screen shows one of three possible
battery conditions, the battery's measured voltage, and the
CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph that represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70 percent of its charge and requires no action.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is a problem with the battery. Replace it.
15. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the tester. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
DTC: Enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic Trouble Code fields in the warranty
claim.
Warranty Requirements
^ Only batteries that are Original Equipment (factory-installed) or supplied by AHM Parts are
covered by the Original Equipment Battery Limited Warranty.
^ No battery warranty claim will be accepted without the 10-digit test code from the ED-18 Battery
Analyzer or the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station.
^ Enter the 10-digit test code into the Warranty Claim DTC fields one and two.
^ The battery tester print-out stating Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace must be attached to the
related repair order or the warranty claim will not be approved.
^ All batteries replaced under warranty must have a warranty claim tag attached to it.
^ If you have a battery under warranty that needs replacement for a non-electrical defect (like a
cracked case) and the battery tester does not display Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace, contact
your District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM) for help.
*^ The battery claim will be returned to your dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2081 if the
tester printout does not state Replace Battery or Bad
Cell Replace.
^ A battery claim will be returned to the dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2082 if the
technician entered the CCA (from the ED-18 Rating field or the GR8 Test Info field) that does not
match the factory-installed battery or the AHM Parts replacement battery CCA. Make sure the CCA
matches the model and model year on the iN (Interactive Network). Go to Service > Service Library
> Claims Reference Guide > Coverage Tables > Battery Warranty.
^ The ED-18 and GR8 must have the most current software version. Honda policy states that you
must update your tools within 3 days of being notified that an update is available. A battery claim
will be returned to the dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2083 if a repair order (RO) date is
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7 days or later after the software activation date for the latest tester software. See REQUIRED
TOOLS for more information about the current software version and how to update your tools. You
can also check the software version active dates on the iN. Go to Service > Service Library >
Claims Reference Guide > Coverage Tables > Battery Warranty.
^ All Honda 12-volt batteries are lead-acid (flooded type). No other battery types are accepted. If
you try to submit a claim with a battery that was not tested as flooded, the claim will be returned to
your dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2084. See step 6 of USING THE ED-18 BATTERY
TESTER or step 9 of USING THE GR8 DIAGNOSTIC STATION - ED-18 BATTERY TEST
FUNCTION for how to test the battery.*
ED-18 and GR8 battery test codes are used for product research and warranty validation. Some of
the information gathered is:
- Tool type
- Software version
- Test date
- Test results:
^ Battery voltage
^ CCA results
^ Battery condition
^ Battery temperature
- Tech-entered information:
^ Battery CCA
^ Battery type
The dealer is responsible for testing and charging batteries when the vehicle first arrives at the
dealership and while in dealer inventory. Testing and charging to maintain the battery in a new and
unsold vehicle cannot be claimed under warranty. If you let a good battery sit discharged, and it is
damaged from poor maintenance, this is not a defect, and the replacement is not covered by
warranty.
If your dealership receives a new vehicle (less than 2 weeks since delivery) with a defective battery
(your ED-18 or GR8 states Replace Battery or Bad Cell, plus the 10-digit code), you can file a
warranty claim. You must show the printout from the ED18 or GR8 and the vehicle delivery
document (bill of lading) to your DPSM and request their approval of claim error 3050, No Warranty
- In Stock Battery.
You are required to test the battery during the PDI and at final delivery. Record the 10-digit test
code created by the ED-i8 or GR8 in the applicable places of the Service History booklet, and place
a printout of the tester results in the vehicle file. See RECORD KEEPING in Service Bulletin
89-003, Battery Maintenance at Dealers, for more information.
Warranty claim error code 3055 was created for battery replacement claims within 90 days of
delivery to the customer. It can be cleared only by a DPSM. For your DPSM to override warranty
claim error code 3055, you need to provide this documentation:
^ The initial PDI battery test printout that matches the PDI date or the new arrival battery test
printout and the vehicle delivery document (bill of lading), lists the correct CCA rating, and shows
the battery condition as Good Battery.
^ The Final Inspection that matches the date of the vehicle delivery, lists the correct CCA rating,
and shows the battery condition as Good Battery.
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^ The latest battery test that shows Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace. Use the 10-digit code
from this test when submitting the warranty claim.
All battery warranty claims need an ED-18 or GR8 test code included under the DTC (Diagnostic
Trouble Code) field. Any claims submitted without a code will be rejected, and test codes are
audited for accuracy. Attach the ED-18 or GR8 tester printout that states Replace Battery or Bad
Cell - Replace. If your claim is rejected with the claim error codes 2080 or 2081, refer to these code
explanations:
^ 2080 - Battery test code required. Enter the 10-digit code from the ED-18 or GR8 in the DTC field
and resubmit.
^ 2081 - Good battery or invalid battery code. This code is created when you submit a 10-digit code
that indicates a Good Battery, Charge & Retest, or
Refer to the owner's manual or current Service Operations Manual for warranty coverage. Each
defective battery replaced under warranty must have a warranty claim tag securely attached to it. If
you need to replace a battery because of a non-electrical problem (for example, the case is
cracked) but the ED-18 or GR8 reads that the battery is good, contact your DPSM for help.
Warranty Coverage
Enter the warranty claim information listed, and the full dealer net amount. The parts and labor
reimbursement is calculated according to the following tables after you submit the warranty claim.
*Batteries in 2005-10 model year vehicles are covered in full for parts and labor with no mileage
limit for 36 months.*
See section 2.18 of the Service Operations Manual for more information.
Parts Warranty - Replacement Battery Limited Warranty (Customer paid at a Honda dealership for
an AHM Parts battery)
Refer to the Warranty Requirements under Battery Replacement - Original Equipment Battery
Limited Warranty.
Warranty Coverage
Enter and submit a parts warranty claim with the information listed and the full dealer net amount.
The parts and labor reimbursement is calculated according to the schedule below after the
warranty claim is submitted.
Batteries are covered for 100 months, with full coverage for the first 36 months in service and
prorated between the 37th and 100th month of service as listed in the table.
Replacement Batteries Sold Between February 1, 2000, and October 31, 2004
See Section 2.18 of the Service Operations Manual for more information.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 89028 > Jan > 90 > Battery - Repeated Discharge
Model Applicable To
JAN 1990
'88-89 Prelude Low Charge Rate (Supersedes 89-028, dated December 15, 1989) SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
- Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure. '88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the '88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 89028 > Jan > 90 > Battery - Repeated Discharge > Page 2451
'88 Prelude:
'89 Prelude
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model Applicable To
ALL ALL
89-037
The testing equipment can be purchased through American Honda's Service Tool and Equipment
Program or directly from the manufacturer.
The battery testing equipment listed in this bulletin is required to test batteries in Honda cars (see
Section 3.9 of your Automobile Dealer Sales and Service Agreement). Select the tester that will
best suit your dealership. Equipment testing capabilities are listed on page two.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Both testers are warranted by Bear Automotive Service Equipment Company. Equipm.ent obtained
through American Honda comes with an additional 3 year warranty on the CPU board.
EQUIPMENT RETURN INFORMATION
To return equipment purchased from American Honda, Johnson Controls, or Bear Automotive, it
will be necessary to first contact American Honda; Special Tools.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 89037 > Nov > 89 > Battery - Testing Equipment > Page 2456
Model
Bulletin No.
89-028
NOV 17,1989
SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
^ Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure.
'88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
PARTS INFORMATION
'88 Prelude:
Kit includes:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 89028 > Nov > 89 > Battery - Discharges Repeatedly > Page 2461
* ACG Pulley 31141-PK1-305
'89 Prelude
H/C:3378627
Kit includes:
Out-of-warranty: This repair, like any other repair performed after warranty expiration, may be
eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration,
and get the DSM's decision, before starting work. Operation number:
118105
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model
ALL Applicable To
ELECTRICAL Bulletin No. 88-023 Issue Date AUG 5, '88 Battery Test Procedure (Supersedes
Service Bulletin 84-057, dated Nov 5, '84) American Honda will process claims for battery
replacement under warranty only if the battery fails the procedure described on the back of this
bulletin.
^ VAT-40(or equivalent).
TEST PROCEDURE
1. The reading from Load Test #1 (if required) from the procedure on the back of this page, must
be entered into the Warranty Claim Field "LOAD TEST #1."
2. The reading from Load Test #2 (if required) from the procedure on the back of this page, must
be entered into the Warranty Claim Field "LOAD TEST #2."
3. The charging time (if required) from the procedure on the back of this page, must be entered into
the Warranty Claim Field "CHARGE TIME."
NOTE: The correct Defect Code for the FAILED BATTERY BRAND must be entered, or the claim
will be rejected. DO NOT enter the Defect Code for the new replacement battery. The Warranty
Claim Chart lists the ONLY Defect Codes that can be used for the battery claim.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88023 > Aug > 88 > Battery - Test Procedure > Page 2466
^ Do not overcharge. If electrolyte escapes from the battery, or temperature rises above 125~F,
stop charging and wait for the battery to return to a safe state.
NOTE: To get accurate results, the temperature of the electrolyte must be between 70~F and
100~F before you test the battery.
Most batteries are categorized by a 2-digit code (found on top of the battery). The 2-digit code is
located on either an identification sticker or embossed on the casing. See the illustrations below:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 09-045 > Feb > 11 > Electrical - ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Info.
Battery: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Info.
09-045
(Supersedes 09-027, dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE VERSION, the method to check the current software was updated.*
INTRODUCTION
The software for the ED-18 Battery Analyzer (or tester) is updated periodically to fix software bugs
and enhance the tool's function. To help you update the ED-18 tester more quickly, American
Honda no longer distributes CDs for the tester. You can now use the Midtronics ED-18 update
wizard to download software and firmware to your ED-18 tester using a PC and the Internet. It is
extremely important to use the latest ED-18 software to ensure that the current battery testing
procedures are used.
Honda introduced a new policy to ensure that ED-18 testers are updated promptly. The ED-18
software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification from an iN message or other
Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any battery replacements may not be
covered under warranty.
^ ED-18 Battery Analyzer: ED-18 Version 1: P/N INBED18LLH ED-18 Version 2: P/N INB17191840
^ 7/64" hex wrench: P/N INBi7191270* *Both the R5232 interface cable and the hex wrench were
included with the ED-18 update that was shipped to dealerships in November 2008.
^ Internet access
^ An IBM-compatible PC:
- CD ROM
- R5232 (9 pin) serial port, or an R5232 to USB Adapter (P/N MTRA164) (Some newer computers
do not have an R5232 port. You will need to order the R5232 to USB adapter to update your ED-18
testers.)
To order the ED-18 Battery Analyzer version 2, the interface cable, the R5232 to USB adapter, or
the hex wrench, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service
Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
NOTE:
*The current software version is listed online. Go to the iN (select Service > Service Bay >
Diagnostic Tools Software Versions).*
Info > Version. The version number is located near the top of the version screen.
To check the ED-18 version 2 software:
^ Turn on the tester, and read the version number on the screen. It should appear for about 3
seconds.
^ Or, you can click on: Language > Options > Info > Version. The version number is located near
the top of the version screen.
1. Make sure the ED-18 is off, then detach the printer by using the hex wrench to remove the two
screws at the bottom of the printer. Pull the printer
straight out from the ED-18 to avoid damaging the connector terminals.
2. Connect the R8232 interface cable to the ED-18 where the printer was connected, then connect
the interface cable to your PC.
NOTE:
If your computer doesn't have an R8232 serial port, use the R8232 to USB adapter.
4. Online, go to
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 09-045 > Feb > 11 > Electrical - ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Info. > Page 2473
5. Enter your username and password, then click the Login button.
NOTE:
7. Fill in your dealer number, the service manager's name, and the ED-18 serial number(s). The
dealer name, the dealer address, and the dealer phone
8. You should see the image of your ED-18 tester again. Click on the highlighted Honda ED-18 V2
Software Update link.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 09-045 > Feb > 11 > Electrical - ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Info. > Page 2474
10. A file will be downloaded to your computer. After it is finished, an Internet Explorer - Security
Warning screen appears. Select Run.
NOTE:
Depending on your network setup, you may see more warning screens than are shown here.
12. Before using the Midtronics update utility, make sure your computer port settings are correct.
Click on: My Computer > Control Panel > System >
If you are using an RS232 to USB adapter, make sure to plug it in before checking the port
settings.
Expand Ports, and check the communications port number. The communications port number
should match the COMM number in the Midtronics update utility. If the numbers do not match, click
on the arrows next to the COMM windows in the Midtronics update utility, and change the number
to match the computer system's port number.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 09-045 > Feb > 11 > Electrical - ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Info. > Page 2476
Make sure this communications port number matches the COMM number on the update. If it does
not, change the number on the update.
13. Click on Start to begin the update, which takes about a minute. A progress bar appears. Wait
until you get a message indicating the update was
successful.
NOTE:
^ If the clamps come off the battery, or the R8232 interface cable comes loose, turn the ED-18 off,
then back on. When the logon screen appears on the ED-18, click on Start to restart the update.
^ If the error message Flash not erased appears, replace the AA batteries in the ED-18, and try the
update again.
15. Click on Quit on the ED-18 update. Make sure the message UPDATE COMPLETE appears on
the ED-18 tester.
17. Confirm that the software on the ED-18 tester is updated to the software version listed under
SOFTWARE VERSION.
NOTE:
If you have any problems updating the ED-18, call Midtronics at 866-592-8054.
19. If you have more than one ED-18, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
20. Once all ED-18s are updated, store the R5232 interface cable and the hex wrench in a safe
location for future updates.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 09-060 > Feb > 11 > Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info.
Battery: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info.
09-060
(Supersedes 09-060, dated January 19, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
INTRODUCTION
The software for the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station is updated periodically to fix software bugs
and enhance the tool's function. You can now use the Midtronics GR8 update wizard to download
software and firmware to your GR8 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the
latest GR8 software to ensure that the current battery testing and diagnostic procedures are used.
Honda introduced a new policy to ensure that GR8 testers are updated promptly. The GR8
software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification from an iN message or other
Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any battery replacements may not be
covered under warranty.
^ USB-to-mini-USB cable (this cable came with the GR8): Midtronics P/N A128
^ Internet access
To order the GR8 Diagnostic Station, or the USB-to-mini-USB cable, go to the Honda Tool and
Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online
Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The current software version is listed online. Go to the iN (select Service > Service Bay >
Diagnostic Tools Software Versions).
The update should take 5-10 minutes. Make sure that the update is not interrupted. If the update is
interrupted, it could damage the GR8 and require you to send the GR8 to Midtronics for repair. This
repair is not covered by warranty.
1. Make sure the GR8 is off and the SD card is removed.
2. Online, go to www.midtronics.com/home/clientlogin/clientlogin.aspx:
3. Enter your username and password, then click the Login button.
Username: hondagr8
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 09-060 > Feb > 11 > Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page
2482
Password: hondagr8
4. You should see an image of the GR8 tester. Click on the highlighted Update Software link under
the image.
5. Fill in your dealer number, the service manager's name, and the GR8 serial number(s). The
dealer name, the dealer address, and the dealer phone
6. You should see the image of the GR8 tester again. Click on the highlighted Honda GR8
Software Update link.
NOTE:
Depending on your network setup, you may see more warning screens than are shown here.
*9. The Midtronics Update Wizard appears. Refer to SOFTWARE INFORMATION to find the
current software version.*
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 09-060 > Feb > 11 > Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page
2483
* NOTE:
If the wrong software file appears or is not shown, click Change MUP File, and select the correct
software version.*
10. Turn on the GR8, and follow the Update Wizard on-screen instructions.
11. When the update is complete, the Update Results screen appears, indicating the update was
successful. Click Finish to close the Update Wizard.
12. Turn the GR8 off for 10 seconds. Reinstall the SD card, then turn the GR8 on, and confirm that
the software is updated to the software version
13. If an error message appears anytime during the update, follow the on-screen instructions, and
try updating the GR8 again. If the error message still
does not go away, or if you have any problems updating the GR8, call Midtronics.
14. If you have more than one GR8, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
15. Once all GR8s are updated, store the USB-to-mini-USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information
Battery: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information
88-023
(Supersedes 88-023, dated September 12, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black
bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*^ Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, battery claim Error Codes were added to some
Warranty Requirements
^ The 2005 Model Year and Later battery coverage section was changed to 2005-10 Model Year
Vehicles.*
BACKGROUND
Maintaining batteries in vehicles is an important part of ensuring a battery's operating life. American
Honda recommends using the ED-18 and GR8 to check and maintain batteries. Refer to this
bulletin for:
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ ED-18 Battery Analyzer (Version 1 or 2): ED-18 Version 1: P/N INBEDi8LLH ED-18 Version 2:
P/N INB17191840
NOTE:
Tool Requirements
The GR8 and ED-18 software must be updated within 3 days of a new software update release.
Refer to the applicable service bulletins for more information:
Warranty Requirements
The 10-digit test code must be included on a battery replacement claim. Refer to WARRANTY
CLAIM INFORMATION.
ORDERING INFORMATION
To order the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station or the ED-18-2 Battery Analyzer, go to the Honda Tool
and Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment Program >
Online Catalog), or call.
NOTE:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2488
For more information about documenting the scheduled battery checks, refer to Service Bulletin
89-003, Battery Maintenance at Dealers.
ED-18 Battery Analyzer:
NOTE:
Keep a printout of every battery test. Your warranty claim may be rejected unless you show that the
battery was properly maintained.
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ Check the condition of the battery and its state-of-charge when a vehicle comes in for scheduled
maintenance.
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ When the ED-18 or GR8 displays Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace, it provides a 10-digit
code that must be included with the warranty
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the ED-18 user's manual.
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and the ED-18 updated to the most current software.
The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim may not
be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for more
information.
4. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
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Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2490
5. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
6. Use the arrow or number keys to select FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE: All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select
another battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
7. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the ED-18 analyzer result
may be wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
8. Measure the battery temperature by placing the analyzer's IR temperature sensor within 1 to 2
inches of the top or side of the battery. (The arrow on
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2491
the top of the analyzer's housing indicates the sensor's location.) When the measured temperature
on the display stabilizes, press Enter.
9. The analyzer displays the battery's current condition under RESULTS. The screen below shows
one of four possible battery conditions, the battery's
measured voltage, and the CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph that
represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70% of its charge, 85% of its capacity, and requires no
action.
^ GR8 Diagnostic Needed - The battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), and the
condition of the battery is unknown. Use the GR8 to charge the battery and properly diagnose it.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2492
^ Replace Battery - The battery condition is poor. Replace it.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is an internal problem with the battery. Replace it.
11. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the analyzer. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
NOTE:
^ Use the GR8 diagnostic mode when the ED-18 indicates GR8 DIAGNOSTIC NEEDED.
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the GR8 instruction manual;
besides the one that comes with the GR8, the GR8 instruction manual is also available online.
Select GENERAL PUBLICATIONS, select Tool Information, then select GR8-1100P Battery
Diagnostic Station Instruction Manual from the list.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2493
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and that the GR8 is updated to the most current
software. The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim
may not be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for
more information.
5. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2494
6. Use the arrow keys to select either DEALER INVENTORY or CUSTOMER VEHICLE, then press
Enter.
7. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
8. Use the arrow or number keys to select FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE:
All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select another
battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
9. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the GR8 result may be
wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
10. The screen changes to a progress bar while the GR8 tests the battery.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2495
11. If the battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), or the condition of the battery is
unknown, the GR8 automatically starts charging
the battery and diagnosing it.
NOTE:
^ The GR8 often states that charging and testing time is about 3 hours. Most actual charging and
diagnostic times range between 15-25 minutes.
^ Battery charging times are affected by how the battery is discharged. If the battery discharged
quickly (for example, the headlights were left on), the battery will recharge quickly. However, if the
battery discharged slowly (for example, the battery was not checked for a very long time), it will
take a lot longer to recharge it.
12. After the GR8 completes its diagnosis, it displays the battery's current condition. The screen
shows one of three possible battery conditions, the
battery's measured voltage, and the CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph
that represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70% of its charge and requires no action.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2496
^ Replace Battery - The battery condition is poor. Replace it.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is a problem with the battery. Replace it.
14. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the tester. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2497
USING THE GR8 DIAGNOSTIC STATION - ED-18 BATTERY TEST FUNCTION
NOTE:
^ The ED-18 battery test function in the GR8 should be used only when your ED-18 is out of
service.
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the GR8 instruction manual besides
the one that comes with the GR8, the GR8 instruction manual is also available online. Select
GENERAL PUBLICATIONS, select Tool Information, then select Honda GR8-1100P Battery
Diagnostic Station Instruction Manual from the list.
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and the GR8 updated to the most current software.
The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim may not
be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for more
information.
7. Use the arrow keys to select either DEALER INVENTORY or CUSTOMER VEHICLE, then press
Enter.
8. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
9. Use the arrow or number keys to select the FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE:
All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select another
battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2499
10. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the battery test result may be
wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
11. The screen changes to a progress bar while the GR8 tests the battery.
12. If the battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), or the condition of the battery is
unknown, the GR8 automatically changes to its
NOTE:
^ The GR8 often states that charging and testing time is about 3 hours. Most actual charging and
diagnostic times range between 15-25 minutes.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2500
^ Battery charging times are affected by how the battery is discharged. If the battery discharged
quickly (for example, the headlights were left on), the battery will recharge quickly. However, if the
battery discharged slowly (for example, the battery was not checked for a very long time), it will
take a lot longer to recharge it.
13. The tester displays the battery's current condition. The screen shows one of three possible
battery conditions, the battery's measured voltage, and the
CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph that represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70 percent of its charge and requires no action.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is a problem with the battery. Replace it.
15. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the tester. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
DTC: Enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic Trouble Code fields in the warranty
claim.
Warranty Requirements
^ Only batteries that are Original Equipment (factory-installed) or supplied by AHM Parts are
covered by the Original Equipment Battery Limited Warranty.
^ No battery warranty claim will be accepted without the 10-digit test code from the ED-18 Battery
Analyzer or the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station.
^ Enter the 10-digit test code into the Warranty Claim DTC fields one and two.
^ The battery tester print-out stating Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace must be attached to the
related repair order or the warranty claim will not be approved.
^ All batteries replaced under warranty must have a warranty claim tag attached to it.
^ If you have a battery under warranty that needs replacement for a non-electrical defect (like a
cracked case) and the battery tester does not display Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace, contact
your District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM) for help.
*^ The battery claim will be returned to your dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2081 if the
tester printout does not state Replace Battery or Bad
Cell Replace.
^ A battery claim will be returned to the dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2082 if the
technician entered the CCA (from the ED-18 Rating field or the GR8 Test Info field) that does not
match the factory-installed battery or the AHM Parts replacement battery CCA. Make sure the CCA
matches the model and model year on the iN (Interactive Network). Go to Service > Service Library
> Claims Reference Guide > Coverage Tables > Battery Warranty.
^ The ED-18 and GR8 must have the most current software version. Honda policy states that you
must update your tools within 3 days of being notified that an update is available. A battery claim
will be returned to the dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2083 if a repair order (RO) date is
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2502
7 days or later after the software activation date for the latest tester software. See REQUIRED
TOOLS for more information about the current software version and how to update your tools. You
can also check the software version active dates on the iN. Go to Service > Service Library >
Claims Reference Guide > Coverage Tables > Battery Warranty.
^ All Honda 12-volt batteries are lead-acid (flooded type). No other battery types are accepted. If
you try to submit a claim with a battery that was not tested as flooded, the claim will be returned to
your dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2084. See step 6 of USING THE ED-18 BATTERY
TESTER or step 9 of USING THE GR8 DIAGNOSTIC STATION - ED-18 BATTERY TEST
FUNCTION for how to test the battery.*
ED-18 and GR8 battery test codes are used for product research and warranty validation. Some of
the information gathered is:
- Tool type
- Software version
- Test date
- Test results:
^ Battery voltage
^ CCA results
^ Battery condition
^ Battery temperature
- Tech-entered information:
^ Battery CCA
^ Battery type
The dealer is responsible for testing and charging batteries when the vehicle first arrives at the
dealership and while in dealer inventory. Testing and charging to maintain the battery in a new and
unsold vehicle cannot be claimed under warranty. If you let a good battery sit discharged, and it is
damaged from poor maintenance, this is not a defect, and the replacement is not covered by
warranty.
If your dealership receives a new vehicle (less than 2 weeks since delivery) with a defective battery
(your ED-18 or GR8 states Replace Battery or Bad Cell, plus the 10-digit code), you can file a
warranty claim. You must show the printout from the ED18 or GR8 and the vehicle delivery
document (bill of lading) to your DPSM and request their approval of claim error 3050, No Warranty
- In Stock Battery.
You are required to test the battery during the PDI and at final delivery. Record the 10-digit test
code created by the ED-i8 or GR8 in the applicable places of the Service History booklet, and place
a printout of the tester results in the vehicle file. See RECORD KEEPING in Service Bulletin
89-003, Battery Maintenance at Dealers, for more information.
Warranty claim error code 3055 was created for battery replacement claims within 90 days of
delivery to the customer. It can be cleared only by a DPSM. For your DPSM to override warranty
claim error code 3055, you need to provide this documentation:
^ The initial PDI battery test printout that matches the PDI date or the new arrival battery test
printout and the vehicle delivery document (bill of lading), lists the correct CCA rating, and shows
the battery condition as Good Battery.
^ The Final Inspection that matches the date of the vehicle delivery, lists the correct CCA rating,
and shows the battery condition as Good Battery.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88-023 > Jan > 10 > Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information > Page
2503
^ The latest battery test that shows Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace. Use the 10-digit code
from this test when submitting the warranty claim.
All battery warranty claims need an ED-18 or GR8 test code included under the DTC (Diagnostic
Trouble Code) field. Any claims submitted without a code will be rejected, and test codes are
audited for accuracy. Attach the ED-18 or GR8 tester printout that states Replace Battery or Bad
Cell - Replace. If your claim is rejected with the claim error codes 2080 or 2081, refer to these code
explanations:
^ 2080 - Battery test code required. Enter the 10-digit code from the ED-18 or GR8 in the DTC field
and resubmit.
^ 2081 - Good battery or invalid battery code. This code is created when you submit a 10-digit code
that indicates a Good Battery, Charge & Retest, or
Refer to the owner's manual or current Service Operations Manual for warranty coverage. Each
defective battery replaced under warranty must have a warranty claim tag securely attached to it. If
you need to replace a battery because of a non-electrical problem (for example, the case is
cracked) but the ED-18 or GR8 reads that the battery is good, contact your DPSM for help.
Warranty Coverage
Enter the warranty claim information listed, and the full dealer net amount. The parts and labor
reimbursement is calculated according to the following tables after you submit the warranty claim.
*Batteries in 2005-10 model year vehicles are covered in full for parts and labor with no mileage
limit for 36 months.*
See section 2.18 of the Service Operations Manual for more information.
Parts Warranty - Replacement Battery Limited Warranty (Customer paid at a Honda dealership for
an AHM Parts battery)
Refer to the Warranty Requirements under Battery Replacement - Original Equipment Battery
Limited Warranty.
Warranty Coverage
Enter and submit a parts warranty claim with the information listed and the full dealer net amount.
The parts and labor reimbursement is calculated according to the schedule below after the
warranty claim is submitted.
Batteries are covered for 100 months, with full coverage for the first 36 months in service and
prorated between the 37th and 100th month of service as listed in the table.
Replacement Batteries Sold Between February 1, 2000, and October 31, 2004
See Section 2.18 of the Service Operations Manual for more information.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 89037 > Nov > 89 > Battery - Testing Equipment
Model Applicable To
ALL ALL
89-037
The testing equipment can be purchased through American Honda's Service Tool and Equipment
Program or directly from the manufacturer.
The battery testing equipment listed in this bulletin is required to test batteries in Honda cars (see
Section 3.9 of your Automobile Dealer Sales and Service Agreement). Select the tester that will
best suit your dealership. Equipment testing capabilities are listed on page two.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Both testers are warranted by Bear Automotive Service Equipment Company. Equipm.ent obtained
through American Honda comes with an additional 3 year warranty on the CPU board.
EQUIPMENT RETURN INFORMATION
To return equipment purchased from American Honda, Johnson Controls, or Bear Automotive, it
will be necessary to first contact American Honda; Special Tools.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 89037 > Nov > 89 > Battery - Testing Equipment > Page 2509
Model
ALL Applicable To
ELECTRICAL Bulletin No. 88-023 Issue Date AUG 5, '88 Battery Test Procedure (Supersedes
Service Bulletin 84-057, dated Nov 5, '84) American Honda will process claims for battery
replacement under warranty only if the battery fails the procedure described on the back of this
bulletin.
^ VAT-40(or equivalent).
TEST PROCEDURE
1. The reading from Load Test #1 (if required) from the procedure on the back of this page, must
be entered into the Warranty Claim Field "LOAD TEST #1."
2. The reading from Load Test #2 (if required) from the procedure on the back of this page, must
be entered into the Warranty Claim Field "LOAD TEST #2."
3. The charging time (if required) from the procedure on the back of this page, must be entered into
the Warranty Claim Field "CHARGE TIME."
NOTE: The correct Defect Code for the FAILED BATTERY BRAND must be entered, or the claim
will be rejected. DO NOT enter the Defect Code for the new replacement battery. The Warranty
Claim Chart lists the ONLY Defect Codes that can be used for the battery claim.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Battery: > 88023 > Aug > 88 > Battery - Test Procedure > Page 2514
^ Do not overcharge. If electrolyte escapes from the battery, or temperature rises above 125~F,
stop charging and wait for the battery to return to a safe state.
NOTE: To get accurate results, the temperature of the electrolyte must be between 70~F and
100~F before you test the battery.
Most batteries are categorized by a 2-digit code (found on top of the battery). The 2-digit code is
located on either an identification sticker or embossed on the casing. See the illustrations below:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Page 2515
Standard Battery
Model Applicable To
JAN 1990
'88-89 Prelude Low Charge Rate (Supersedes 89-028, dated December 15, 1989) SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
- Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure. '88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the '88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Alternator Pulley > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Alternator Pulley: > 89028 > Jan > 90 > Battery -
Repeated Discharge > Page 2526
'88 Prelude:
'89 Prelude
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model
Bulletin No.
89-028
NOV 17,1989
SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
^ Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure.
'88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
4. Reinstall the power steering drive belt.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the'88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
PARTS INFORMATION
'88 Prelude:
Kit includes:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Alternator Pulley > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Alternator Pulley: > 89028 > Nov > 89 > Battery -
Discharges Repeatedly > Page 2531
* ACG Pulley 31141-PK1-305
* ACG Belt 31100-PK1-305
'89 Prelude
H/C:3378627
Kit includes:
Out-of-warranty: This repair, like any other repair performed after warranty expiration, may be
eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration,
and get the DSM's decision, before starting work. Operation number:
118105
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model Applicable To
JAN 1990
'88-89 Prelude Low Charge Rate (Supersedes 89-028, dated December 15, 1989) SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
- Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure. '88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the '88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Alternator Pulley > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Alternator Pulley: > 89028 > Jan > 90 >
Battery - Repeated Discharge > Page 2537
'88 Prelude:
'89 Prelude
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model
Bulletin No.
89-028
NOV 17,1989
SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
^ Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure.
'88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
4. Reinstall the power steering drive belt.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the'88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
PARTS INFORMATION
'88 Prelude:
Kit includes:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Alternator Pulley > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Alternator Pulley: > 89028 > Nov > 89 >
Battery - Discharges Repeatedly > Page 2542
* ACG Pulley 31141-PK1-305
* ACG Belt 31100-PK1-305
'89 Prelude
H/C:3378627
Kit includes:
Out-of-warranty: This repair, like any other repair performed after warranty expiration, may be
eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration,
and get the DSM's decision, before starting work. Operation number:
118105
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Prior to performing test, check for proper alternator belt tension and proper electrical connections at
alternator. Also check battery condition and for blown fuses at fuse panel and engine compartment
relay panel.
2. With ignition switch in the On position, check for battery voltage between ground and alternator
connector terminals IG and S. If battery voltage is indicated at both terminals, proceed to step 3. If
no voltage is indicated, check for the following:
a. Check for blown fuse in fuse panel. b. Check for open circuit in wiring (black/yellow wire)
between fuse panel and voltage regulator. c. Check for open circuit in wiring (white/green wire)
between engine compartment relay panel and voltage regulator.
3. To further test the alternator and regulate Sun Vat 40 or other suitable charging system tester
should be used. Follow tester manufacturer's instructions for test connections and settings. When
performing alternator and regulator tests with tester note the following:
a. When checking alternator output, operate engine at 2000 RPM with engine cooling fan off. Apply
a load to charging system so that voltage
drops to no lower than 12 volts. Tester readings should be within 10 amps of the readings indicated
in. If readings are within specification, the charging system is operating properly, refer to ``Charge
Warning Lamp Test.'' If readings are not within specification, proceed to step b.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Voltage Regulator > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2547
Fig. 10 Alternator full field access hole location. 1988 units
b. Remove protective cover from alternator end cover. Perform full field test by inserting a suitable
tool into full field access hole located on
end cover, Fig. 10. When alternator is in full field, system voltage will rise quickly. Do not allow
voltage to exceed 18 volts or damage to electrical system may result. Note tester amperage
readings with alternator in full field. If readings are now within specification, replace voltage
regulator. If readings are still not within specification, replace alternator.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Lock > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Ignition Lock: Technical Service Bulletins Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Lock > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch > Page 2553
Ignition Lock: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Exacta Code Key Cutter
MODEL ALL
APPLICABLE TO ALL
The Exacta Code Key Cutter, Manufactured by IIco Unican Co. is available from American Honda
to meet your minimum key cutting requirements. For use and care, follow the manufacturer's
instructions included with the Code Key Cutter Base Kit.
PARTS INFORMATION
45-Degree Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit: H/C 2942886, TIN 07JAB-001002A
47-Degree Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit: H/C 2942555, T/N 07JAB-001001A
1994 Passport Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit: H/C 4447587, P/N 07RAB-001030A
Note
For Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit contents, and model application, refer to the Application Chart.
ORDERING INFORMATION
^ The Exacta Code Key Cutter Base Kit and Accessory Kits are available from American Honda
using your normal parts ordering procedures. The kits will be shipped to you directly from the
manufacturer. If you need to order individual replacement parts, or if items are missing from your
shipment, contact IIco Unican Co. at (800) 334-1381, and ask for the American Honda sales
representative. Refer to the Application Chart for IIco Unican part numbers.
^ Key blanks do not come with the kits ordered from American Honda; refer to your Parts
Reference Guide for key blanks.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Lock > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch > Page 2554
^ If you are using a Curtis Key Cutter and need parts or information, contact:
Curtis Industries, Inc. 34999 Curtis Blvd., Eastlake, OH 44094-4899 (216) 951-2400.
APPLICATION CHART
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Lock > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Starting System - Unable To Key In Ignition Switch > Page 2555
88-012
Issue Date
Most Hondas are designed with keys cut at a 45 degree angle with the exception of the 1988 Civics
which are cut to a 47 degree angle. We now offer two sources to meet your minimum key cutting
requirements.
^ The Exacta Code Key Cutter - Manufactured by Ilco Unican Co. is available from American
Honda using your normal parts ordering procedures. The kits will be shipped to you directly from
the manufacturer.
^ The Curtis Key Cutter - Available from Curtis Industries, Inc., Attn: Order Desk, 34999 Curtis
Blvd., Eastlake, OH 44094-4899, 216/951-2400.
Features: ^
^ Up-dating for future key cutting needs also involves changing these four parts.
Parts Information:
^ The Code Key Cutter Base Kit must be used with either the 47 degree Code Key Cutter
Accessory Kit (for '88 Civics) or the 45 degree Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit (for all other
Hondas).
^ Code Key Cutter Base Kit (includes Exacta and a Carrying Case).
^ For '88 Civics use the 47 degree Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit with the Code Key Cutter Base
Kit.
^ For all other Hondas use the 45 degree Code Key Cutter Accessory Kit with the Code Key Cutter
Base Kit.
NOTE: ^
Key blanks do not come with the kits ordered from American Honda; refer to Parts Bulletin No. 88-
0007 for order information..
^ The Code Key Cutter Accessory Kits includes a depth knob, spacing plate, key insert, and punch
& die.
Features: ^
One time setting of depth codes allows you to cut more than one copy without resetting.
Parts Information:
^ For the '88 Civics you need the 47 degree Master Kit.
^ For all other Hondas, you need the 45 degree Master Kit.
NOTE: ^
Both Master Kits include: code key cutter, carriages, camsets, decoder, key blanks and literature.
^ If you already have the 45 degree Code Key Cutter, 15B-45, but do not have the capability to cut
Honda keys, you need to order the 45 degree Update Kit.
3. Center punch each of the two shear screw heads, then using a suitable drill and drill bit, remove
screw heads and the switch.
5. Hand tighten shear screws, insert ignition key, and check for proper operation of wheel lock.
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2563
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
6. On all models, position suitable tool into hole on lock cylinder housing and depress pin, then
remove lock cylinder from housing.
INSTALLATION
a. Place ignition lock cylinder in the LOCK position. b. Rotate key until it is almost at the ACC
position, then insert lock cylinder until pin contacts housing. c. Rotate key to ACC position, then
push pin in and insert lock cylinder into housing until pin clicks into place.
a. Place ingnition lock cylinder in the O position. b. Rotate key until it is almost at the I position,
then insert lock cylinder until pin contacts housing. c. Rotate key to I position, then push pin in and
insert lock cylinder into housing until pin clicks into place.
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Neutral Safety Switch > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Neutral Safety Switch: Service and Repair
4. Remove the two bolts holding switch to selector lever control assembly and remove switch.
5. To install, position switch slider to Neutral position on all except Accord and Prelude models. On
Accord and Prelude models, position switch slider in Park position.
6. Ensure gear selector lever is in Neutral position on all except 1984-86 Accord and 1984-87
Prelude models. On 1984-86 Accord and 1984-87 Prelude models, position gear selector lever in
Park position.
7. Position switch with selector lever actuator rod inserted in its slot in switch slider.
8. Hook forward end of switch bracket over forward end of selector lever control assembly and
tighten attaching bolts.
Diode: Locations
A/C System.
^ If a '90 Accord owner complains of poor power steering assist at low speeds, he may just be
comparing it to other cars he's owned (including other Hondas). To regulate the assist according to
the speed of the car, the '90 Accord P/S system uses a "gain control valve" instead of the old
familiar cut-off valve. The result is better "road feel" than previous models, but also a little less low
speed assist. Compare the car to another like-model with about the same mileage before you
assume there's something wrong.
^ Remember, '90 Civics are shipped with fuse # 12 removed from the dash fuse box. This is the
fuse for the dome light, trunk light, and cigarette lighter circuits, as well as the clock and radio
circuits on cars with these options. Be sure you check the operation of these items during PDI.
^ To avoid breaking the bezel when removing a '90 Accord dash brightness switch, pull on the knob
while you pry the lower edge of the bezel up.
^ If you're working on an '88-90 Prelude whose A/C compressor will only run for a few seconds,
chances are it has a bad pick-up sensor. Check the pick-up sensor's resistance as described in the
S/M. (Remember, you have to discharge the system before you can replace the sensor.)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Locations > Fuse Block Locations
Fuse Block: Locations Fuse Block Locations
The fuse panel is located under the dash to the left of the steering wheel
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component
Information > Locations > Fuse Block Locations > Page 2588
Fuse Block: Locations Main Fuse Box
The main fuse box is installed on the right side of the engine compartment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Diode > Component Information > Locations
Diode: Locations
A/C System.
^ If a '90 Accord owner complains of poor power steering assist at low speeds, he may just be
comparing it to other cars he's owned (including other Hondas). To regulate the assist according to
the speed of the car, the '90 Accord P/S system uses a "gain control valve" instead of the old
familiar cut-off valve. The result is better "road feel" than previous models, but also a little less low
speed assist. Compare the car to another like-model with about the same mileage before you
assume there's something wrong.
^ Remember, '90 Civics are shipped with fuse # 12 removed from the dash fuse box. This is the
fuse for the dome light, trunk light, and cigarette lighter circuits, as well as the clock and radio
circuits on cars with these options. Be sure you check the operation of these items during PDI.
^ To avoid breaking the bezel when removing a '90 Accord dash brightness switch, pull on the knob
while you pry the lower edge of the bezel up.
^ If you're working on an '88-90 Prelude whose A/C compressor will only run for a few seconds,
chances are it has a bad pick-up sensor. Check the pick-up sensor's resistance as described in the
S/M. (Remember, you have to discharge the system before you can replace the sensor.)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Locations > Fuse
Block Locations
Fuse Block: Locations Fuse Block Locations
The fuse panel is located under the dash to the left of the steering wheel
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Locations > Fuse
Block Locations > Page 2602
Fuse Block: Locations Main Fuse Box
The main fuse box is installed on the right side of the engine compartment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: Customer Interest Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 2614
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 2615
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 2616
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 2617
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 2619
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 2620
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
2628
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
2629
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
2630
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
2631
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
2633
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
2634
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment
1988 87-024
Four-Wheel Steering (4WS) Wheel Alignment The wheel alignment procedure for the 1988 Prelude
Si with four-wheel steering has been refined since the service manual was issued. The procedure
below supersedes the procedures in the '88 Prelude Service Manual and in the August '88 issue of
Service News. PREPARATION
NOTE: Your alignment equipment must be capable of four-wheel alignment and use full-floating
turntables for all four wheels, or full-floating turntables for the front wheels and full-floating slip
plates for the rear wheels. All of the full-floating turntables/slip plates must be of equal height.
4. Remove the No. 32 (brake light) fuse from the under-hood relay box.
7. Perform wheel runout checks according to the alignment equipment manufacturer's instructions.
9. Place the full-floating turntables, with locking pins installed, under all four wheels.
10. With the car's wheels in the straight ahead position, lower the car onto the turntables.
11. Remove the locking pins from the turntables and bounce both ends of the car up and down
several times to "settle" the suspension.
ALIGNMENT
NOTE: ^
^ If certain portions of this procedure are not applicable to your type of alignment equipment, refer
to the equipment manufacturer's instructions.
Front Caster
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment > Page 2639
NOTE: Make sure the wheel hubs are clean and rust-free before installing the wheel alignment
attachments.
2. Install a camber/caster gauge on the Wheel Alignment Gauge Attachment and turn the wheel
20~ inward.
3. Turn the adjust screw so that the bubble in the caster gauge is at 0~.
4. Turn the wheel 20~ outward and read the caster on the gauge.
5. If adjustment is required, record the caster reading and go to step 6. If adjustment is not
required, go to step 12.
NOTE: One full turn of the adjuster moves the radius rod 1.5 mm (0.06 in.) and changes the caster
by 20'.
10. Hold the radius rod adjuster nut in place and tighten the self-locking nut.
13. Check the camber of each front wheel using the gauge.
14. Adjust the camber, if necessary, by loosening the upper arm locknuts and moving the knuckle/
hub assembly.
Rear Camber
15. Install the Rear Steering Center Lock Pin (T/N 07HAJ-SF1020A).
16. Check the camber of each rear wheel using the camber gauge.
NOTE: The difference in camber between the right and left wheels should be less than 20'.
17. Adjust the camber, if necessary, by loosening the upper arm locknuts and moving the
knuckle/hub assembly.
Steering Wheel Alignment - Static (While the car is on the alignment rack)
18. Check the steering wheel alignment. If it's off by more than 6~ (5 mm at the steering wheel
hub), remove the steering wheel and reposition it on the splines until it's within 6~.
19. Remove the Rear Steering Center Lock Pin and reinstall the gearbox cap bolt.
20. Turn the steering wheel until it is precisely centered in the straight-ahead position and secure it
with a steering wheel holder.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment > Page 2641
Rear Toe
Right rear toe-in: 1 - 2 mm Left rear toe-in: 1 - 2 mm Total rear toe-in: 3 +/- 1 mm
22. Loosen the tie-rod locknut and turn the tie-rod shaft until the toe setting is correct.
NOTE: One full turn of the tie-rod shaft changes the toe approximately 8.7 mm (11/32 in.).
23. After adjustment, tighten the tie-rod shaft locknut and reposition the tie-rod boot if necessary.
Front Toe
25. Loosen the tie-rod locknut and turn the tie-rod shaft until the toe setting is correct.
NOTE: One full turn of the tie-rod shaft changes the toe approximately 7.2 mm (9/32 in.).
26. After adjustment, tighten the tie-rod shaft locknut and reposition the tie-rod boot if necessary,
27. Recheck the final toe settings.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment > Page 2642
28. Reinstall the No. 32 fuse, remove the brake pedal actuator, steering wheel holder, and the car
from the alignment rack, CAUTION: Be sure the Rear Steering Center Lock Pin was removed
before moving the car off the alignment rack (step 19).
29. Place a strip of masking tape on the steering wheel hub and another on the upper column
cover. Draw a line across both pieces of tape with the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position.
30. Drive the car in a straight line on a flat road and check the steering wheel alignment.
31. If the steering wheel alignment is off by more than 3~ (2.5 mm), return the car to the alignment
rack and recheck the toe settings. If the steering wheel alignment is off by less than 3~ go to step
32.
32. Steering wheel off to left: face the inside of the left front wheel and turn the left tie-rod
clockwise; then face the inside of the right front wheel and turn the right tie-rod shaft
counterclockwise. Each tie-rod shaft should be turned an equal amount.
Steering wheel off to right: face the inside of the right front wheel and turn the right tie-rod shaft
clockwise; then face the inside of the left front wheel and turn the left tie-rod shaft
counterclockwise. Each tie-rod shaft should be turned an equal amount.
33. After adjustment, tighten the tie-rod shaft locknuts and reposition the tie-rod boots if necessary.
34. Drive the car in a straight line on a flat road and recheck the final steering wheel alignment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment
1988 87-024
Four-Wheel Steering (4WS) Wheel Alignment The wheel alignment procedure for the 1988 Prelude
Si with four-wheel steering has been refined since the service manual was issued. The procedure
below supersedes the procedures in the '88 Prelude Service Manual and in the August '88 issue of
Service News. PREPARATION
NOTE: Your alignment equipment must be capable of four-wheel alignment and use full-floating
turntables for all four wheels, or full-floating turntables for the front wheels and full-floating slip
plates for the rear wheels. All of the full-floating turntables/slip plates must be of equal height.
4. Remove the No. 32 (brake light) fuse from the under-hood relay box.
7. Perform wheel runout checks according to the alignment equipment manufacturer's instructions.
9. Place the full-floating turntables, with locking pins installed, under all four wheels.
10. With the car's wheels in the straight ahead position, lower the car onto the turntables.
11. Remove the locking pins from the turntables and bounce both ends of the car up and down
several times to "settle" the suspension.
ALIGNMENT
NOTE: ^
^ If certain portions of this procedure are not applicable to your type of alignment equipment, refer
to the equipment manufacturer's instructions.
Front Caster
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment > Page 2648
NOTE: Make sure the wheel hubs are clean and rust-free before installing the wheel alignment
attachments.
2. Install a camber/caster gauge on the Wheel Alignment Gauge Attachment and turn the wheel
20~ inward.
3. Turn the adjust screw so that the bubble in the caster gauge is at 0~.
4. Turn the wheel 20~ outward and read the caster on the gauge.
5. If adjustment is required, record the caster reading and go to step 6. If adjustment is not
required, go to step 12.
NOTE: One full turn of the adjuster moves the radius rod 1.5 mm (0.06 in.) and changes the caster
by 20'.
10. Hold the radius rod adjuster nut in place and tighten the self-locking nut.
13. Check the camber of each front wheel using the gauge.
14. Adjust the camber, if necessary, by loosening the upper arm locknuts and moving the knuckle/
hub assembly.
Rear Camber
15. Install the Rear Steering Center Lock Pin (T/N 07HAJ-SF1020A).
16. Check the camber of each rear wheel using the camber gauge.
NOTE: The difference in camber between the right and left wheels should be less than 20'.
17. Adjust the camber, if necessary, by loosening the upper arm locknuts and moving the
knuckle/hub assembly.
Steering Wheel Alignment - Static (While the car is on the alignment rack)
18. Check the steering wheel alignment. If it's off by more than 6~ (5 mm at the steering wheel
hub), remove the steering wheel and reposition it on the splines until it's within 6~.
19. Remove the Rear Steering Center Lock Pin and reinstall the gearbox cap bolt.
20. Turn the steering wheel until it is precisely centered in the straight-ahead position and secure it
with a steering wheel holder.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment > Page 2650
Rear Toe
Right rear toe-in: 1 - 2 mm Left rear toe-in: 1 - 2 mm Total rear toe-in: 3 +/- 1 mm
22. Loosen the tie-rod locknut and turn the tie-rod shaft until the toe setting is correct.
NOTE: One full turn of the tie-rod shaft changes the toe approximately 8.7 mm (11/32 in.).
23. After adjustment, tighten the tie-rod shaft locknut and reposition the tie-rod boot if necessary.
Front Toe
25. Loosen the tie-rod locknut and turn the tie-rod shaft until the toe setting is correct.
NOTE: One full turn of the tie-rod shaft changes the toe approximately 7.2 mm (9/32 in.).
26. After adjustment, tighten the tie-rod shaft locknut and reposition the tie-rod boot if necessary,
27. Recheck the final toe settings.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 87024 > Oct > 87 > Steering - (4WS) Alignment > Page 2651
28. Reinstall the No. 32 fuse, remove the brake pedal actuator, steering wheel holder, and the car
from the alignment rack, CAUTION: Be sure the Rear Steering Center Lock Pin was removed
before moving the car off the alignment rack (step 19).
29. Place a strip of masking tape on the steering wheel hub and another on the upper column
cover. Draw a line across both pieces of tape with the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position.
30. Drive the car in a straight line on a flat road and check the steering wheel alignment.
31. If the steering wheel alignment is off by more than 3~ (2.5 mm), return the car to the alignment
rack and recheck the toe settings. If the steering wheel alignment is off by less than 3~ go to step
32.
32. Steering wheel off to left: face the inside of the left front wheel and turn the left tie-rod
clockwise; then face the inside of the right front wheel and turn the right tie-rod shaft
counterclockwise. Each tie-rod shaft should be turned an equal amount.
Steering wheel off to right: face the inside of the right front wheel and turn the right tie-rod shaft
clockwise; then face the inside of the left front wheel and turn the left tie-rod shaft
counterclockwise. Each tie-rod shaft should be turned an equal amount.
33. After adjustment, tighten the tie-rod shaft locknuts and reposition the tie-rod boots if necessary.
34. Drive the car in a straight line on a flat road and recheck the final steering wheel alignment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2652
Alignment: By Symptom
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2655
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2656
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2657
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2658
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2660
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2661
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2663
to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the
maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives
in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2664
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2665
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2666
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2667
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2669
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 2670
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Page 2671
Alignment: Specifications
CAUTION: When fasteners are removed, always reinstall them at the same location from which
they were removed. If a fastener needs to be replaced, use the correct part number fastener for
that application. If the correct part number fastener is not available, a fastener of equal size and
strength (or stronger) may be used. Fasteners that are not reused, and those requiring thread
locking compound will be called out. The correct torque value must be used when installing
fasteners that require it. If the above conditions are not followed, parts or system damage could
result.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description
Alignment: Description and Operation General Description
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
"Front End Alignment" refers to the angular relationship between the front wheels, the front
suspension attaching parts and the ground. Proper front end alignment must be maintained in
order to insure efficient steering, good directional stability and to prevent abnormal tire wear. The
most important factors of front end alignment are wheel toe-in, wheel camber and axle caster.
CAMBER:
Camber is the vertical tilting inward or outward of the front wheels. When the wheels tilt outward at
the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt inward at the top, the camber is negative
(-). The amount of tilt measured in degrees from the vertical is called the camber angle (1). If
camber is extreme or unequal between the wheels, improper steering and excessive tire wear will
result. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear
to the outside.
CASTER:
This illustration shows view from the side of the vehicle. Caster (1) is the vertical tilting of the wheel
axis either forward or backward (when viewed from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is
positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). On the short and long arm type suspension you cannot
see a caster angle without a special instrument, but if you look straight down from the top of the
upper control arm to the ground, the ball joints do not line up (fore and aft) when a caster angle
other than 0 degree is present. With a positive angle, the lower ball joint would be slightly ahead
(toward the front of the vehicle) of the upper ball joint center line.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 2675
TOE-IN:
This illustration shows view from the top of the vehicle. Toe-in is the measured amount the front
wheels are turn in. The actual amount of toe-in is normally a fraction of a degree. Toe-in is
measured from the center of the tire treads or from the inside of the tires. The purpose of toe-in is
to insure parallel rolling of the front wheels and to offset any small deflections of the wheel support
system which occurs when the vehicle is rolling forward. Incorrect toe-in results in excessive toe-in
and unstable steering. Toe-in is the last alignment to be set in the front end alignment procedure.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 2676
Camber is the inward or outward tilting of the front wheels from the vertical. When the wheels tilt
outward at the top, the camber is positive (+). When the wheels tilt inward at the top, the camber is
negative (-). The amount of tilt measured in degrees from the vertical is called the camber angle. If
camber is extreme or unequal between the wheels, improper steering and excessive tire wear will
result. Negative camber causes wear on the inside of the tire, while positive camber causes wear
to the outside.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 2677
Caster is the tilting of the wheel axis either forward or backward from the vertical (when viewed
from the side of the vehicle). A backward tilt is positive (+) and a forward tilt is negative (-). On the
short and long arm type suspension you cannot see a caster angle without a special instrument,
but if you look straight down from the top of the upper control arm to the ground, the ball joints do
not line up (fore and aft) when a caster angle other than 0 degree is present. With a positive angle,
the lower ball joint would be slightly ahead (toward the front of the vehicle) of the upper ball joint
center line.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
General Description > Page 2678
Toe-in is the turning of the front wheels. The actual amount of toe-in is normally a fraction of a
degree. Toe-in is measured from the center of the tire treads or from the inside of the tires. The
purpose of toe-in is to insure parallel rolling of the front wheels and to offset any small deflections
of the wheel support system which occurs when the vehicle is rolling forward. Incorrect toe-in
results in excessive toe-in and unstable steering. Toe-in is the last alignment to be set in the front
end alignment procedure.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Description and Operation >
Page 2679
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Checks
Alignment: Service and Repair Preliminary Checks
INSPECTION
Before making any adjustments affecting caster, camber or toe-in, the following front end
inspection should be made. 1. Inspect the tires for proper inflation pressure. 2. Inspect the front
wheel bearings for proper adjustment. 3. inspect the ball joints and tie rod ends. If excessive
looseness is noted, correct before adjusting. 4. Inspect the wheel and tires for run-out. 5. Inspect
the trim height. If not within specifications, the correction must be made before adjusting caster. 6.
Inspect the steering unit for looseness at the frame. 7. Inspect shock absorbers for leaks or any
noticeable noise. 8. Inspect the control arms or stabilizer bar attachment for looseness. 9. Inspect
the front end alignment using alignment equipment. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Toe-In
2. Turn both tie rods in the same direction until both front wheels are positioned straight ahead.
3. Adjust toe to specifications by turning both tie rods in the same direction, then tighten tie rod
locknuts.
Ensure tires are properly inflated prior to checking or adjusting caster angles.
1. Raise front of vehicle and position turning radius gauges under front wheels, then lower vehicle.
2. Remove spindle nut and install suitable caster gauge and adapter, Fig. 1.
4. Position caster gauge at 0°, then return wheels to straight-ahead position and note gauge
reading. If caster angle is not within specifications, inspect suspension components for damage
and repair as necessary, then recheck caster.
5. If caster adjustment is necessary, loosen radius rod adjuster locknut and self-locking nut on end
of radius rod, Fig. 2.
6. Turn radius rod adjuster in to increase caster or out to decrease caster as necessary. One
complete revolution of the adjuster moves radius rod .049 inch and changes caster 2/15°.
7. Tighten radius rod adjuster locknut and self-locking nut, then recheck caster angle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Checks > Page 2683
Camber Inspection & Adjustment
Ensure tires are properly inflated prior to checking or adjusting camber angles.
1. Remove spindle nut and install suitable camber gauge and adapter, Fig. 3. with wheels in
straight-ahead position.
2. Note gauge reading with bubble centered on the gauge. If camber is not within specifications,
inspection suspension components for damage and repair as necessary, then recheck camber.
3. If camber adjustment is necessary, loosen upper arm attaching nuts, Fig. 4, then hold wheel by
hand and adjust camber to 0° on gauge.
Rear
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair >
Preliminary Checks > Page 2684
Fig. 5 Rear toe-in adjustment. Prelude less 4 wheel steering & 1984-85 Accord
2. Loosen locknut in rear radius arm pivot bolt, then turn adjusting bolt, Fig. 5, until toe-in is within
specifications.
Rear toe is adjusted by loosening the tie rod end lock nuts and rotating the tie rods. After
completing adjustment, torque tie rod end lock nuts to 33 ft. lbs.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Front Steering Knuckle: Service and Repair
3. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels and spindle nut.
4. Remove caliper and wire aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose.
5. Remove brake disc attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching
screw holes to pull disc from hub. When tightening screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent
cocking the brake disc.
7. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod end remover.
8. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way.
9. Using a suitable jawed puller, separate ball joint and lower arm.
10. Remove upper ball joint shield, then cotter pin and nut.
11. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm using a suitable ball joint remover.
12. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off driveshaft.
15. Remove remaining splash guard to knuckle attaching screw, then the splash guard.
16. Remove outboard dust seal and snap ring from steering knuckle, then the outboard inner
bearing race and bearing.
17. Flip knuckle over, then remove inboard dust seal, inboard inner bearing race and bearing.
18. Using a suitable press, remove bearing outer race from steering knuckle.
21. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Figs. 3 and 4, for torque specifications.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair
Power Steering Bleeding: Service and Repair
When a power steering pump or gear has been installed, or an oil line has been disconnected, the
air that has entered the system must be bled out before the vehicle is operated. If air is allowed to
remain in the power steering fluid system, noisy and unsatisfactory operation of the system may
result. When bleeding the system, and any time fluid is added to the power steering system, be
sure to use only automatic transmission fluid labeled "DEXRON-IIE".
1. Fill the pump fluid reservoir to the proper label and let the fluid settle for at least two minutes. 2.
Start the engine and let it run for a few seconds. Do not turn the steering wheel. Then turn the
engine off. 3. Add fluid if necessary. 4. Repeat the above procedure until the fluid level remains
constant after running the engine. 5. Raise the front end of the vehicle so that the front wheels are
off the ground. 6. Start the engine. Slowly turn the steering wheel right and left, lightly contacting
the wheel stops. 7. Add power steering fluid if necessary. 8. Bring down the vehicle, set the
steering wheel at the straight forward position after turning it to its full steer positions 2 or 3 times,
and stop the
engine.
9. Stop the engine. Check the fluid level and refill as required.
10. If the fluid is extremely foamy, allow the vehicle to stand a few minutes and repeat the above
procedure. 11. Inspect:
a. Belt for tightness. b. Pulley for looseness or damage. The pulley should not wobble with the
engine running. c. Hoses so they are not touching any other parts of the vehicle. d. Fluid level and
fill to the proper level.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Fluid > Component
Information > Specifications
Power Steering Fluid: Specifications
Vehicles
1988 Prelude Power Steering Supply Hose (Supersedes 88-014, dated APR 20, '88)
PROBLEM
When subjected to prolonged vibration and high underhood temperatures, the power steering
supply hose, at the connector clamp seal, could develop a small fluid leak. If the fluid contacts the
hot exhaust manifold cover, it may cause smoke and there is a very remote possibility of fire if the
fluid contacts the exhaust manifold itself.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
1988 Prelude Si through BA4 . . . 066463 1988 Prelude S through BA4 . . . 066252
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Check for a recall completion mark above the sixth digit of the VIN on the firewall. ^
^ If there is no recall completion mark, proceed to the removal and replacement instructions.
SI Model
2. Open the hood and remove the negative battery terminal lead. (Use fender covers.)
3. Remove the front air intake hose, the air intake tube, the front branch tube, the rear branch tube,
and the air flow tube.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall
- Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2705
4. Remove the brake booster vacuum line from the left side of the intake manifold.
5. Disconnect the air intake temperature sensor connector (located on the left side of the intake
manifold.
6. Disconnect the P/S pressure switch connector (on the brake booster side) and the harness
clamp (located half way down the harness).
7. Disconnect the fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator
9. Remove the clutch reservoir mounting bolts and lay the reservoir against the intake manifold.
(Manual transmission models only.) Remove the resistor harness clip from the clutch reservoir
bracket.
10. Remove the resonator chamber connecting tube and the left and right resonator chamber
flange bolts. (The rear resonator chamber attachment bolt will be removed from under the car in
step 14.)
11. Remove the P/S supply hose bracket bolt (next to the left side resonator chamber attachment
bolt).
12. Place a clean protective cloth over the alternator, then remove the two bolts at the joint of the
P/S pump and the P/S supply hose. Separate the supply hose from the pump.
13. Remove the P/S supply hose bracket bolts from the cylinder block (8 mm) and thermostat
housing (6 mm).
14. Raise the vehicle and remove the rear resonator chamber attachment bolt, then move the
chamber up and to the right side of the engine compartment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall
- Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2706
15. Remove the valve body splash shield.
16. Place a drain pan under the valve body, then, remove the P/S supply hose and sensor hose
from the valve body. Straighten out the bends slightly on the lower supply hose to facilitate easier
removal.
17. Lower the vehicle while allowing the P/S supply hose to drain.
18. With a hacksaw or utility knife, cut through the rubber portion of the P/S supply hose, then
separate the two halves of the hose.
19. Remove the two halves of the supply hose from the engine compartment. Remove the bracket
and the pressure switch from the pipe.
20. Install a new O-ring on the pressure switch, then install the pressure switch on the new P/S
supply hose and torque to 8.6 ft.lb. (1.2 kg-m).
21. Install the P/S supply hose stay bracket on the new supply hose.
1. Hold the P/S supply hose with the pressure switch down and the hose positioned as shown.
2. Place the hose into the engine compartment moving the pressure switch closer to the right side
before reaching the rear beam.
CAUTION: Be very careful during this portion of the procedure. Do not apply any force to the
pressure switch wires while maneuvering toward
5. Temporarily fit the flare nut, on the P/S hose, to the valve body.
NOTE: Start the flare nut by hand while flexing the supply hose slightly to ease installation. Keep
foreign matter from entering the hose.
7. Reinstall the P/S supply hose holder (bolt/ washer 6 x 16 mm) on the rear beam taking care that
the supply hose is routed under the resonator chamber.
8. Reconnect the connecting tube to the resonator chamber and fasten the chamber to the rear
beam. (Left and right side attachment bolts only. Rear attachment bolt will be installed in Step 22.)
9. Route the P/S supply hose under the emissions hoses, coil wire, tachometer supply wire, etc.
10. Place a drain pan under the engine in the appropriate location. Disconnect the heater inlet
hose, route the P/S supply hose under it, then reconnect the heater inlet hose.
11. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, route the supply hose under it, reconnect it, and reposition
the clamp.
12. Attach the P/S supply hose to the P/S pump with 6 x 22 mm flange nuts. Tighten to 7.9 ft.lb.
(1.1 kg-m).
Be careful not to damage the O-ring. Bolts should be hand-tightened before being fully tightened.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall
- Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2708
13. Install the P/S supply hose bracket A to the cylinder block. Fit the clamp around the supply
hose and then install it onto the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing up).
Install bracket B to the thermostat housing. Fit the clamp around the supply hose and then install it
on to the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing down).
14. Reinstall the injector resistor and ground strap. Reinstall the clutch reservoir (M/T only).
15. Reinstall the fuel return hose to the fuel pressure regulator.
16. Reconnect the P/S pressure switch connector and attach the harness bracket to the brake
booster vacuum hose.
19. Reconnect the air flow tube and the rear branch tube (make sure the rear branch tube tab is
inserted into the air flow tube slot.)
20. Reconnect the air intake hose, front branch hose, and front intake tube.
NOTE: Make sure the tubes are firmly connected and their bands are properly secured.
21. Raise the lift and tighten the P/S supply hose to 27.5 ft.lb. (3.8 kg-m) and the sensor pipe to 9.3
ft.lb. (1.3 kg-m).
22. Install and tighten the resonator chamber rear attachment bolt.
Loosen the cooling system air bleeder, squeeze the upper hose gently to remove any air, and
tighten the bleeder when coolant comes out in a steady stream.
27. Start the engine and let it run for two seconds.
CAUTION: Running the P/S pump for more than 2 seconds could cause it to seize due to lack of
P/S fluid.
28. Top up the reservoir with P/S fluid and restart the engine.
NOTE: Turn the steering wheel from side to side a few times, then top up with P/S fluid.
29. Raise the vehicle.
30. Check the P/S valve body and pipe joints for leaks.
32. Lower the lift and clean the engine compartment to remove any P/S fluid and radiator coolant
stains.
33. Center punch a recall completion mark above the sixth digit of the VIN on the firewall.
S Model
5. Remove the air intake sensor connector (located on the back of the air cleaner).
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall
- Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2710
6. Remove the air cleaner case.
7. Disconnect the drain tube from the charcoal canister, then remove the canister from its bracket
(the canister slides upward off the bracket.)
8. Remove the P/S supply hose from its clamps on the rear beam.
9. Place a clean protective cloth over the alternator, remove the two bolts at the joint of the P/S
pump and the P/S supply hose, then separate the P/S supply hose from the pump.
10. Remove the P/S supply hose bracket bolts on the cylinder block (8 mm) and the thermostat
housing (6 mm).
12. Disconnect the water temperature sender, remove the high tension wire clamp, and the
transmission throttle cable from its holder.
13. Raise the vehicle and remove the valve body splash shield.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall
- Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2711
14. Place a drain pan under the valve body, then remove the P/S supply hose and sensor pipe
from the valve body. Allow the lines to drain.
15. Remove the stabilizer bar bushing bolts.
16. Remove the three self-locking nuts which connect exhaust pipes A and B.
17. Unfasten the clamps for the P/S sensor and return pipes located on the back of the rear beam.
18. Loosen, but do not remove, the return pipe and disconnect the pipe from its hose section.
21. With a hacksaw or utility knife, cut through the rubber portion of the P/S supply hose, then
separate the two halves of the hose.
23. Remove the 6 mm clip holding the return line (located on the right side of the rear beam).
24. Raise the vehicle and remove the bottom half of the P/S supply hose.
3. Continue to pull the supply hose down and to the left side of the vehicle.
4. Lower the stablizer bar and exhaust pipe A, then position the supply hose on the upper side of
the rear beam.
5. Loosely connect the supply hose flare nut to the valve body.
7. Install the return pipe and sensor pipe in the clamps located on the back of the rear beam.
8. Reconnect the return pipe to its hose section and install the clamp.
9. Reconnect exhaust pipes A and B. Torque to 24.5 ft.lb. (3.4 kg-m). (Use new self-locking nuts
and gasket.)
11. Reinstall the front stabilizer bar. Torque to 15.8 ft.lb. (2.2 kg-m) (Bolt/washer 8 x 16 mm).
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall
- Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2713
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, pass the P/S supply hose below the radiator hose, then
reconnect the radiator hose and band.
Be careful not to damage the O-ring. Bolts should be hand-snugged before being fully tightened.
15. Install the P/S supply hose bracket A to the cylinder block. Fit the clamp around the supply
hose and then install it onto the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing up).
Install bracket B to the thermostat housing. Fit the clamp around the supply hose and then install it
onto the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing toward the front of the engine compartment).
18. Attach the harness to the P/S supply hose near the thermostat housing bracket.
19. Install and fasten the P/S supply hose bracket on the right and left sides of the rear beam.
20. Attach the return line to the right side of the rear beam with a new 6 mm clip.
23. Reconnect the air intake control diaphragm tube and the air intake sensor connector.
26. Attach the high tension wire and vacuum tube to the air intake tube.
28. Tighten the P/S supply hose to 27.5 ft.lb. (3.8 kg-m), the sensor pipe to 9.3 ft.lb. (1.3 kg-m), and
return pipe to 9.3 ft.lb. (1.3 kg-m) at the valve body.
29. Clean the valve body and spray with leak check powder.
Loosen the cooling system air bleeder and squeeze the upper hose gently to remove any air. Then
tighten the bleeder when the coolant comes out in a steady stream.
34. Start the engine and let it run for two seconds.
CAUTION: Running the P/S pump for more than 2 seconds could cause it to seize due to lack of
P/S fluid.
35. Top up the P/S reservoir with P/S fluid and restart engine.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Power Steering Line/Hose: > 88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall
- Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2715
NOTE: Turn the steering wheel from side to side a few times, then top up with P/S fluid.
37. Check the P/S valve body and pipe joints for leaks.
39. Lower the lift and clean the engine compartment to remove any P/S fluid and radiator coolant
stains.
40. Center punch a recall completion mark above the sixth digit of the VIN on the firewall.
PARTS INFORMATION
Power Steering Hose Kit (Si model): H/C 2955029 P/N 06537-SF1-A70
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of affected vehicles will be notified of this campaign by mail. Owners will be asked to
contact their nearest Honda dealer for replacement of the power steering supply hose.
Text of the Customer Letter WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Flat rate time: 2.0 hrs (S model); 2.3 hrs (Si model)
Failed part: NPS# 53713-SF1-A51 (S model); NPS# 53713-SF1-A71 (Si model) H/C 2634111 (S
model);
IF THE FLUID CONTACTS THE HOT EXHAUST MANIFOLD, IT MAY CAUSE SMOKE AND
POSSIBLY AN UNDERHOOD FIRE.
Vehicles
1988 Prelude Power Steering Supply Hose (Supersedes 88-014, dated APR 20, '88)
PROBLEM
When subjected to prolonged vibration and high underhood temperatures, the power steering
supply hose, at the connector clamp seal, could develop a small fluid leak. If the fluid contacts the
hot exhaust manifold cover, it may cause smoke and there is a very remote possibility of fire if the
fluid contacts the exhaust manifold itself.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
1988 Prelude Si through BA4 . . . 066463 1988 Prelude S through BA4 . . . 066252
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Check for a recall completion mark above the sixth digit of the VIN on the firewall. ^
^ If there is no recall completion mark, proceed to the removal and replacement instructions.
SI Model
2. Open the hood and remove the negative battery terminal lead. (Use fender covers.)
3. Remove the front air intake hose, the air intake tube, the front branch tube, the rear branch tube,
and the air flow tube.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: >
88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2726
4. Remove the brake booster vacuum line from the left side of the intake manifold.
5. Disconnect the air intake temperature sensor connector (located on the left side of the intake
manifold.
6. Disconnect the P/S pressure switch connector (on the brake booster side) and the harness
clamp (located half way down the harness).
7. Disconnect the fuel return hose from the fuel pressure regulator
9. Remove the clutch reservoir mounting bolts and lay the reservoir against the intake manifold.
(Manual transmission models only.) Remove the resistor harness clip from the clutch reservoir
bracket.
10. Remove the resonator chamber connecting tube and the left and right resonator chamber
flange bolts. (The rear resonator chamber attachment bolt will be removed from under the car in
step 14.)
11. Remove the P/S supply hose bracket bolt (next to the left side resonator chamber attachment
bolt).
12. Place a clean protective cloth over the alternator, then remove the two bolts at the joint of the
P/S pump and the P/S supply hose. Separate the supply hose from the pump.
13. Remove the P/S supply hose bracket bolts from the cylinder block (8 mm) and thermostat
housing (6 mm).
14. Raise the vehicle and remove the rear resonator chamber attachment bolt, then move the
chamber up and to the right side of the engine compartment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: >
88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2727
15. Remove the valve body splash shield.
16. Place a drain pan under the valve body, then, remove the P/S supply hose and sensor hose
from the valve body. Straighten out the bends slightly on the lower supply hose to facilitate easier
removal.
17. Lower the vehicle while allowing the P/S supply hose to drain.
18. With a hacksaw or utility knife, cut through the rubber portion of the P/S supply hose, then
separate the two halves of the hose.
19. Remove the two halves of the supply hose from the engine compartment. Remove the bracket
and the pressure switch from the pipe.
20. Install a new O-ring on the pressure switch, then install the pressure switch on the new P/S
supply hose and torque to 8.6 ft.lb. (1.2 kg-m).
21. Install the P/S supply hose stay bracket on the new supply hose.
1. Hold the P/S supply hose with the pressure switch down and the hose positioned as shown.
2. Place the hose into the engine compartment moving the pressure switch closer to the right side
before reaching the rear beam.
CAUTION: Be very careful during this portion of the procedure. Do not apply any force to the
pressure switch wires while maneuvering toward
5. Temporarily fit the flare nut, on the P/S hose, to the valve body.
NOTE: Start the flare nut by hand while flexing the supply hose slightly to ease installation. Keep
foreign matter from entering the hose.
7. Reinstall the P/S supply hose holder (bolt/ washer 6 x 16 mm) on the rear beam taking care that
the supply hose is routed under the resonator chamber.
8. Reconnect the connecting tube to the resonator chamber and fasten the chamber to the rear
beam. (Left and right side attachment bolts only. Rear attachment bolt will be installed in Step 22.)
9. Route the P/S supply hose under the emissions hoses, coil wire, tachometer supply wire, etc.
10. Place a drain pan under the engine in the appropriate location. Disconnect the heater inlet
hose, route the P/S supply hose under it, then reconnect the heater inlet hose.
11. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, route the supply hose under it, reconnect it, and reposition
the clamp.
12. Attach the P/S supply hose to the P/S pump with 6 x 22 mm flange nuts. Tighten to 7.9 ft.lb.
(1.1 kg-m).
Be careful not to damage the O-ring. Bolts should be hand-tightened before being fully tightened.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: >
88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2729
13. Install the P/S supply hose bracket A to the cylinder block. Fit the clamp around the supply
hose and then install it onto the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing up).
Install bracket B to the thermostat housing. Fit the clamp around the supply hose and then install it
on to the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing down).
14. Reinstall the injector resistor and ground strap. Reinstall the clutch reservoir (M/T only).
15. Reinstall the fuel return hose to the fuel pressure regulator.
16. Reconnect the P/S pressure switch connector and attach the harness bracket to the brake
booster vacuum hose.
19. Reconnect the air flow tube and the rear branch tube (make sure the rear branch tube tab is
inserted into the air flow tube slot.)
20. Reconnect the air intake hose, front branch hose, and front intake tube.
NOTE: Make sure the tubes are firmly connected and their bands are properly secured.
21. Raise the lift and tighten the P/S supply hose to 27.5 ft.lb. (3.8 kg-m) and the sensor pipe to 9.3
ft.lb. (1.3 kg-m).
22. Install and tighten the resonator chamber rear attachment bolt.
Loosen the cooling system air bleeder, squeeze the upper hose gently to remove any air, and
tighten the bleeder when coolant comes out in a steady stream.
27. Start the engine and let it run for two seconds.
CAUTION: Running the P/S pump for more than 2 seconds could cause it to seize due to lack of
P/S fluid.
28. Top up the reservoir with P/S fluid and restart the engine.
NOTE: Turn the steering wheel from side to side a few times, then top up with P/S fluid.
29. Raise the vehicle.
30. Check the P/S valve body and pipe joints for leaks.
32. Lower the lift and clean the engine compartment to remove any P/S fluid and radiator coolant
stains.
33. Center punch a recall completion mark above the sixth digit of the VIN on the firewall.
S Model
5. Remove the air intake sensor connector (located on the back of the air cleaner).
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: >
88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2731
6. Remove the air cleaner case.
7. Disconnect the drain tube from the charcoal canister, then remove the canister from its bracket
(the canister slides upward off the bracket.)
8. Remove the P/S supply hose from its clamps on the rear beam.
9. Place a clean protective cloth over the alternator, remove the two bolts at the joint of the P/S
pump and the P/S supply hose, then separate the P/S supply hose from the pump.
10. Remove the P/S supply hose bracket bolts on the cylinder block (8 mm) and the thermostat
housing (6 mm).
12. Disconnect the water temperature sender, remove the high tension wire clamp, and the
transmission throttle cable from its holder.
13. Raise the vehicle and remove the valve body splash shield.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: >
88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2732
14. Place a drain pan under the valve body, then remove the P/S supply hose and sensor pipe
from the valve body. Allow the lines to drain.
15. Remove the stabilizer bar bushing bolts.
16. Remove the three self-locking nuts which connect exhaust pipes A and B.
17. Unfasten the clamps for the P/S sensor and return pipes located on the back of the rear beam.
18. Loosen, but do not remove, the return pipe and disconnect the pipe from its hose section.
21. With a hacksaw or utility knife, cut through the rubber portion of the P/S supply hose, then
separate the two halves of the hose.
23. Remove the 6 mm clip holding the return line (located on the right side of the rear beam).
24. Raise the vehicle and remove the bottom half of the P/S supply hose.
3. Continue to pull the supply hose down and to the left side of the vehicle.
4. Lower the stablizer bar and exhaust pipe A, then position the supply hose on the upper side of
the rear beam.
5. Loosely connect the supply hose flare nut to the valve body.
7. Install the return pipe and sensor pipe in the clamps located on the back of the rear beam.
8. Reconnect the return pipe to its hose section and install the clamp.
9. Reconnect exhaust pipes A and B. Torque to 24.5 ft.lb. (3.4 kg-m). (Use new self-locking nuts
and gasket.)
11. Reinstall the front stabilizer bar. Torque to 15.8 ft.lb. (2.2 kg-m) (Bolt/washer 8 x 16 mm).
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: >
88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2734
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, pass the P/S supply hose below the radiator hose, then
reconnect the radiator hose and band.
Be careful not to damage the O-ring. Bolts should be hand-snugged before being fully tightened.
15. Install the P/S supply hose bracket A to the cylinder block. Fit the clamp around the supply
hose and then install it onto the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing up).
Install bracket B to the thermostat housing. Fit the clamp around the supply hose and then install it
onto the bracket (make sure the clamp is facing toward the front of the engine compartment).
18. Attach the harness to the P/S supply hose near the thermostat housing bracket.
19. Install and fasten the P/S supply hose bracket on the right and left sides of the rear beam.
20. Attach the return line to the right side of the rear beam with a new 6 mm clip.
23. Reconnect the air intake control diaphragm tube and the air intake sensor connector.
26. Attach the high tension wire and vacuum tube to the air intake tube.
28. Tighten the P/S supply hose to 27.5 ft.lb. (3.8 kg-m), the sensor pipe to 9.3 ft.lb. (1.3 kg-m), and
return pipe to 9.3 ft.lb. (1.3 kg-m) at the valve body.
29. Clean the valve body and spray with leak check powder.
Loosen the cooling system air bleeder and squeeze the upper hose gently to remove any air. Then
tighten the bleeder when the coolant comes out in a steady stream.
34. Start the engine and let it run for two seconds.
CAUTION: Running the P/S pump for more than 2 seconds could cause it to seize due to lack of
P/S fluid.
35. Top up the P/S reservoir with P/S fluid and restart engine.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Line/Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Line/Hose: >
88014 > Jun > 88 > Recall - Power Steering Hose Replacement > Page 2736
NOTE: Turn the steering wheel from side to side a few times, then top up with P/S fluid.
37. Check the P/S valve body and pipe joints for leaks.
39. Lower the lift and clean the engine compartment to remove any P/S fluid and radiator coolant
stains.
40. Center punch a recall completion mark above the sixth digit of the VIN on the firewall.
PARTS INFORMATION
Power Steering Hose Kit (Si model): H/C 2955029 P/N 06537-SF1-A70
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of affected vehicles will be notified of this campaign by mail. Owners will be asked to
contact their nearest Honda dealer for replacement of the power steering supply hose.
Text of the Customer Letter WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Flat rate time: 2.0 hrs (S model); 2.3 hrs (Si model)
Failed part: NPS# 53713-SF1-A51 (S model); NPS# 53713-SF1-A71 (Si model) H/C 2634111 (S
model);
IF THE FLUID CONTACTS THE HOT EXHAUST MANIFOLD, IT MAY CAUSE SMOKE AND
POSSIBLY AN UNDERHOOD FIRE.
Power Steering Valve: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Power Steering Judder & Noise
Model Applicable To
'88-91 PRELUDE
ALL
'88-89 ACCORD
89-033
MAR 8, 1991
Power Steering Judder (Supersedes Service Bulletin 89-033, dated October 20, 1989)
SYMPTOM
A judder felt in the steering wheel and/or a moaning noise heard from the power steering rack,
usually on hard turns. It's sometimes more noticeable when the front of the car is pointed downhill
or when the engine is cold.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the power steering control valve with the new part listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Remove the control valve from the power steering valve body assembly using the procedure
outlined in the Power Steering section of the appropriate service manual.
2. Check the identification mark on the end of the control valve, then replace the valve with a new
one of the same size.
NOTE: ^
^ If the valve body is scored, the valve body, control valve, and cut-off valve must be replaced as a
set.
3. Reassemble and reinstall the control valve. Refill the power steering reservoir to the upper level.
4. Before test driving the car, start the engine and, with the car stationary and on the ground, turn
the steering wheel lock-to-lock several times.
5. Recheck the reservoir level and add fluid as necessary.
6. Test drive the car, making both left and right turns at slow speeds.
PARTS INFORMATION
NOTE: All '90 and '91 models and nearly all others use the size "Y" valve. Do not order a size "X"
or "Z" valve unless you need one.
P/N 91362-SA5-952
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Valve > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Power Steering Valve: > 89033 > Mar > 91 >
Steering - Power Steering Judder & Noise > Page 2750
H/C 1171412
O-ring, 11.0 x 1.9 mm: P/N 91353-SA5-951
H/C 1171305
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Power Steering Valve: Customer Interest Steering - Power Steering Judder & Noise
Model Applicable To
'88-91 PRELUDE
ALL
'88-89 ACCORD
89-033
MAR 8, 1991
Power Steering Judder (Supersedes Service Bulletin 89-033, dated October 20, 1989)
SYMPTOM
A judder felt in the steering wheel and/or a moaning noise heard from the power steering rack,
usually on hard turns. It's sometimes more noticeable when the front of the car is pointed downhill
or when the engine is cold.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the power steering control valve with the new part listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Remove the control valve from the power steering valve body assembly using the procedure
outlined in the Power Steering section of the appropriate service manual.
2. Check the identification mark on the end of the control valve, then replace the valve with a new
one of the same size.
NOTE: ^
^ If the valve body is scored, the valve body, control valve, and cut-off valve must be replaced as a
set.
3. Reassemble and reinstall the control valve. Refill the power steering reservoir to the upper level.
4. Before test driving the car, start the engine and, with the car stationary and on the ground, turn
the steering wheel lock-to-lock several times.
5. Recheck the reservoir level and add fluid as necessary.
6. Test drive the car, making both left and right turns at slow speeds.
PARTS INFORMATION
NOTE: All '90 and '91 models and nearly all others use the size "Y" valve. Do not order a size "X"
or "Z" valve unless you need one.
P/N 91362-SA5-952
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Valve > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Power Steering Valve: > 89033 > Mar > 91 > Steering -
Power Steering Judder & Noise > Page 2756
H/C 1171412
O-ring, 11.0 x 1.9 mm: P/N 91353-SA5-951
H/C 1171305
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Applicable To ALL
Rear Steering Gearbox Noise (Supersedes 89-002, dated January 20, 1989)
SYMPTOM
A clunking or creaking noise from the rear steering gearbox when the steering wheel is rocked from
side to side.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the rear steering gearbox with the new part listed under PARTS INFORMATION. Follow
the procedures in the Power Steering section of the appropriate service manual.
NOTE: When replacing the rear steering gearbox, you must also replace the two tie rod lock
washers listed below.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Applicable To ALL
Rear Steering Gearbox Noise (Supersedes 89-002, dated January 20, 1989)
SYMPTOM
A clunking or creaking noise from the rear steering gearbox when the steering wheel is rocked from
side to side.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the rear steering gearbox with the new part listed under PARTS INFORMATION. Follow
the procedures in the Power Steering section of the appropriate service manual.
NOTE: When replacing the rear steering gearbox, you must also replace the two tie rod lock
washers listed below.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
WARNING:
- To avoid rendering the SRS inoperative, which could lead to personal injury or death in the event
of severe frontal collision, all SRS service work must be performed by an authorized mechanic.
- Improper service procedures, including incorrect removal and installation of the SRS, could lead
to personal injury caused by unintentional activation of the air bags.
- Do not bump the SRS unit. Otherwise, the system may fail in cause of a collision, or the ai bags
may deploy when the ignition switch is ON (II).
- All SRS electrical wiring harnesses are covered with yellow insulation. Related components are
located in the steering column, front console, dashboard lower panel, and in the dashboard above
the glove box. Do not use electrical test equipment on these circuits.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 2774
2. Tighten guide screw until it compresses spring and lightly seats against guide, then back screw
off approximately 1/8 turn (45°) on models with manual steering or 1/5 turn (70°) on models with
power steering.
W/POWER STEERING
2. Tighten guide screw until it compresses spring and lightly seats against guide, then loosen
screw.
3. Torque screw to 2.9 ft. lbs. on 1986-87 Accord, or 2 ft. lbs. on all other models, then back screw
off approximately 1/10 turn (35°) on 1984-85 models or 1/12 turn (25°) on 1986-88 models.
2 Wheel Steering
Prior to removing steering gear on models with power steering, proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect fluid return hose from pump reservoir and place end of hose in suitable container.
2. Start engine, then turn steering wheel from lock to lock several times.
5. After installing gear, fill reservoir and repeat step 2 to bleed air from system, filling reservoir as
needed.
Manual Steering
1. Remove bottom bolt from steering shaft coupler, then disconnect coupler from pinion shaft.
3. Remove cotter pins and retaining nuts, then disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles using
suitable puller.
5. On models with manual transmission, disconnect shift rod extension from transmission.
6. On models with automatic transmission, remove shift cable guide from floor and pull cable down
by hand.
7. On all models, remove nuts securing exhaust pipe to manifold and exhaust pipe bracket nuts,
then lower exhaust pipe.
8. Push rack all the way to the right, then remove steering gear brackets.
9. Lower steering gear until pinion shaft clear opening in frame and rotate steering gear forward
until pinion shaft points toward the rear.
10. Move steering gear to the right until the left tie rod clears the exhaust pipe, then lower steering
gear and remove from left side of vehicle.
11. Reverse procedure to install. Torque bracket bolts to 16 ft. lbs., tie rod nuts to 32 ft. lbs. and
coupler pinch bolt to 22 ft. lbs. When installing center beam, ensure insulator is centered with
mount on transmission.
Power Steering
2. Remove boot from base of steering column, loosen upper and lower steering shaft coupler pinch
bolts, then disconnect coupler from steering gear.
3. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove wheels and steering gear shield.
4. Remove cotter pins and retaining nuts, then disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles using
suitable puller.
7. Remove nuts securing exhaust pipe to manifold and exhaust pipe bracket nuts, then lower
exhaust pipe.
8. Clean dirt from steering gear control unit, disconnect fluid lines, then plug lines and open fittings.
9. Remove steering gear bracket bolts, pull steering gear down until pinion shaft clears frame,
move gear to the right until left tie rod drops free, then remove gear from left of vehicle.
10. Reverse procedure to install. Torque bracket bolts to 16 ft. lbs., tie rod nuts to 32 ft. lbs. and
coupler pinch bolts to 22 ft. lbs.
4 Wheel Steering
Prior to removing steering gear on models with power steering, proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect fluid return hose from pump reservoir and place end of hose in suitable container.
2. Start engine, then turn steering wheel from lock to lock several times.
5. After installing gear, fill reservoir and repeat step 2 to bleed air from system, filling reservoir as
needed.
Front Unit
2. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
3. Using a suitable tool, disconnect tie rod ends from steering knuckle.
9. Separate joint guard cap, then remove joint bolt from driven pinion side.
10. Remove joint bolt from center steering shaft, then slide joint block from driven pinion.
13. Remove tie rod end from left hand tie rod.
14. Slide steering gear out through right hand side of vehicle.
Fig. 7 Rear steering unit attaching bolts. 1988 Prelude 4 wheel steering
Rear Unit
1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove rear wheel and tire assemblies.
2. Using a suitable tool, disconnect tie rod ends from steering knuckles.
3. Slide steering guard joint forward, then remove steering yoke bolt.
4. Remove steering unit attaching bolts, then remove steering unit, Fig. 7.
Before disassembling the steering gear, clean gear thoroughly to prevent dirt from entering the unit.
During disassembly, carefully note and label disassembled component (part) from the main gear
unit to aid in the assemble process.
Fig. 2 Power steering gear exploded view. Prelude & 1984-85 Accord
5. Remove valve body cap attaching bolts, then valve body cap.
7. Remove cut-off valve and spring from body, then separate valve body from housing.
9. Remove control valve O-ring, then inspect cut-off valve for scoring and scratches. If valve body
is damaged, replace all three parts as a unit.
a. Clean all disassembled parts prior to assembly. b. Replace all O-rings and seals. c. Coat
plungers, control valve and cut-off valve with power steering fluid.
1. With steering gear removed from vehicle, remove control unit. Refer to ``Control Unit
Disassembly.''
2. Remove boot bands, then boots. Straighten tie rod locks, then remove tie rods using two 19 mm
wrenches.
4. Remove rack locknut and guide screw, then the 32 mm snap ring securing pinion lower ball
bearing.
6. Remove 15 mm snap ring, then separate lower ball bearing and pinion.
7. Remove cylinder housing attaching bolts, then slide housing off rack.
8. Remove rack bushing, cylinder spring and cylinder end seal from cylinder.
9. Remove cylinder seal retainer, cap and steering rack from gear housing.
10. Remove retainer washer and 46.5 mm O-ring from gear housing.
11. Remove pinion dust seal retainer bolts, dust seal and retainer.
15. Remove 24.5 mm O-ring and snap ring from seal retainer, then slide off cylinder cap.
16. Remove cylinder end seal from retainer, then remove rack piston ring and 27.5 mm O-ring.
17. Prior to assembly, clean all disassembled parts, replace all O-rings and seals.
18. Install 27.5 mm O-ring in rack groove, then piston ring using suitable tool.
19. Install both 33.5 mm O-rings on cylinder cap, then slide cylinder cap onto seal retainer.
21. Grease sliding surface of cylinder end seal (white), then install seal in seal retainer. Both
cylinder end seals are the same size, but are not interchangeable. The white seal goes in end of
retainer and black seal goes in end of cylinder housing.
22. Install 46.5 mm O-ring and retainer washer into gear housing.
23. Press seal retainer into gear housing, then stand housing on suitable workbench.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 2780
Fig. 4 Steering rack installation. Prelude (except models with 4 wheel steering) & 1984-85 Accord
w/power steering
24. Install cylinder end seal slider tool, then install rack in seal retainer. Face rack teeth away from
end seal slider tool slot, Fig. 4.
25. Remove slider tool, then install cylinder over rack until it seats in housing. Coat rack and inside
of cylinder with power steering fluid to help prevent damaging O-ring.
28. Install cylinder to gear housing attaching bolts. Torque bolts to 7 ft. lbs.
30. Install pinion snap ring, then pinion and holder in gear housing.
31. Install snap ring in pinion holder from underside of gear housing.
36. Install rack guide, spring, rack guide screw and locknut. To adjust, refer to ``Front Suspension &
Steering.''
37. Install tie rod, torque to 54 ft. lbs. on Accord or 40 ft. lbs. on Prelude models, then bend lock
washer against flat on flange, Fig. 5.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 2781
39. Install shift rod torque arm and torque to 9 ft. lbs.
40. On vehicles with 5 speed transmissions, install rod and torque clevis bolts to 16 ft. lbs.
41. Install pressure lines, then center beam, torquing bolts to 16 ft. lbs.
42. Install tie rod to steering knuckle, torque castle nuts to 32 ft. lbs., then install cotter pins.
43. Install steering shaft connector, then fill reservoir with fluid, start engine and check for leaks.
Fig. 13 Exploded view of front steering gear unit. Prelude models w/4 wheel steering
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 2782
Fig. 14 Exploded view of rear steering gear unit. Prelude models w/4 wheel steering
Before disassembling the steering gear, clean gear thoroughly to prevent dirt from entering the unit.
During disassembly, carefully note and label disassembled component (part) from the main gear
unit to aid in the assemble process.
Before conducting service on the front steering gear, clean gear unit using a suitable solvent.
Thoroughly clean disassembled components. Always replace O-rings and seals with new ones.
Replace worn or damaged components as required. Do not dip O-rings and seals in cleaning
solvent. Coat O-rings and seals with suitable grease and ensure they stay in position during
assembly. Refer to Fig. 13, for the front gear or Fig. 14, for the rear gear when servicing steering
gear unit.
After completing service on the steering gear, the rear steering gear must be centered as follows:
4. Turn the steering wheel right or left slightly until the center lock pin completely seats.
5. The red marking on the lock pin tool should not be visible.
6. Do not turn the steering wheel quickly when the center lock pin is seated and do not force past
the locking point after the pin is seated or the pin may be damaged.
With the rear steering gear removed from the vehicle, adjust neutral position as follows:
1. Using a suitable tool, remove cap bolt from the rear steering gear unit.
2. Position the offset shaft with the cutout facing the underside of the steering gear unit and the flat
area facing upward.
4. Turn the offset by hand to ensure the steering gear is in the neutral position. If the gear is in the
neutral position, the red marking on the pin should not be visible and the offset shaft should be
locked. If the red marking on the pin is visible and the offset shaft can be moved, adjust unit again.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 2783
Steering Gear: Service and Repair Manual Steering
2 Wheel Steering
Prior to removing steering gear on models with power steering, proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect fluid return hose from pump reservoir and place end of hose in suitable container.
2. Start engine, then turn steering wheel from lock to lock several times.
5. After installing gear, fill reservoir and repeat step 2 to bleed air from system, filling reservoir as
needed.
Manual Steering
1. Remove bottom bolt from steering shaft coupler, then disconnect coupler from pinion shaft.
3. Remove cotter pins and retaining nuts, then disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles using
suitable puller.
5. On models with manual transmission, disconnect shift rod extension from transmission.
6. On models with automatic transmission, remove shift cable guide from floor and pull cable down
by hand.
7. On all models, remove nuts securing exhaust pipe to manifold and exhaust pipe bracket nuts,
then lower exhaust pipe.
8. Push rack all the way to the right, then remove steering gear brackets.
9. Lower steering gear until pinion shaft clear opening in frame and rotate steering gear forward
until pinion shaft points toward the rear.
10. Move steering gear to the right until the left tie rod clears the exhaust pipe, then lower steering
gear and remove from left side of vehicle.
11. Reverse procedure to install. Torque bracket bolts to 16 ft. lbs., tie rod nuts to 32 ft. lbs. and
coupler pinch bolt to 22 ft. lbs. When installing center beam, ensure insulator is centered with
mount on transmission.
Power Steering
2. Remove boot from base of steering column, loosen upper and lower steering shaft coupler pinch
bolts, then disconnect coupler from steering gear.
3. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove wheels and steering gear shield.
4. Remove cotter pins and retaining nuts, then disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles using
suitable puller.
7. Remove nuts securing exhaust pipe to manifold and exhaust pipe bracket nuts, then lower
exhaust pipe.
8. Clean dirt from steering gear control unit, disconnect fluid lines, then plug lines and open fittings.
9. Remove steering gear bracket bolts, pull steering gear down until pinion shaft clears frame,
move gear to the right until left tie rod drops free, then remove gear from left of vehicle.
10. Reverse procedure to install. Torque bracket bolts to 16 ft. lbs., tie rod nuts to 32 ft. lbs. and
coupler pinch bolts to 22 ft. lbs.
4 Wheel Steering
Prior to removing steering gear on models with power steering, proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect fluid return hose from pump reservoir and place end of hose in suitable container.
2. Start engine, then turn steering wheel from lock to lock several times.
5. After installing gear, fill reservoir and repeat step 2 to bleed air from system, filling reservoir as
needed.
Front Unit
2. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
3. Using a suitable tool, disconnect tie rod ends from steering knuckle.
9. Separate joint guard cap, then remove joint bolt from driven pinion side.
10. Remove joint bolt from center steering shaft, then slide joint block from driven pinion.
13. Remove tie rod end from left hand tie rod.
14. Slide steering gear out through right hand side of vehicle.
Fig. 7 Rear steering unit attaching bolts. 1988 Prelude 4 wheel steering
Rear Unit
1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, then remove rear wheel and tire assemblies.
2. Using a suitable tool, disconnect tie rod ends from steering knuckles.
3. Slide steering guard joint forward, then remove steering yoke bolt.
4. Remove steering unit attaching bolts, then remove steering unit, Fig. 7.
Overhaul
Before disassembling the steering gear, clean gear thoroughly to prevent dirt from entering the unit.
During disassembly, carefully note and label disassembled component (part) from the main gear
unit to aid in the assemble process.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Power Steering > Page 2785
DISASSEMBLY
1. Clamp steering gear in vise, then loosen bellows bands and slide away from gear.
2. Straighten tie rod lock washers, then hold rack with suitable wrench and remove tie rod.
3. Remove rack locknut and guide screw, then rack guide spring and guide from steering gear, Fig.
1.
5. Remove 35 mm snap ring securing pinion, then withdraw pinion and bearing assembly.
ASSEMBLY
1. Apply thin coat of grease to inside of rack end bushing. Do not fill bushing slots with grease as
they must remain open to serve as air passages.
2. Install rack end bushings, aligning round projections on bushings with holes in housing.
3. Install rack and pinion into steering gear, then snap rings and seals.
4. Install rack guide and spring, then guide screw and locknut.
5. Install new lock washer and stopper washer on tie rod end.
6. Install tie rod into rack, then place locating lugs on lock washer into slots on rack. Tighten tie rod,
then bend lock washer against flat on tie rod flange.
7. Install boots and bands, then tie rod end nut. Do not tighten tie rod end nut until after wheel
alignment.
8. Install air transfer tube on bellows fitting and secure with clips.
9. Refer to ``Front Suspension & Steering'' for installation and adjustment procedures.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Tools - Instructions For New Ball Joint Tool
Ball Joint: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Instructions For New Ball Joint Tool
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
This tool replaces Ball Joint Remover 07941-6920003 and all previous "lever" type ball joint
separation tools.
Use it to separate a ball joint from its suspension or steering arm as follows:
CAUTION Wear eye protection. The ball joint can break loose suddenly and scatter dirt or other
debris in your eyes.
2. Remove the cotter pin. then unscrew the nut until it's flush with the end of the threads on the ball
joint. This will help prevent damage to the threaded end of the ball joint.
3. Apply grease to the areas shown. This will ease installation of the tool and prevent damage to
the pressure bolt threads.
4. Insert the tool as shown. Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot. If the tool jaws won't fit
over the ball joint, unscrew the pressure bolt until they do.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Tools - Instructions For New Ball Joint Tool > Page 2791
5. Once the tool is in place, turn the adjusting bolt as necessary to make the jaws parallel. Then
hand-tighten the pressure bolt and re-check the jaws to make sure they are still parallel.
6. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint shaft pops loose from the
steering/suspension arm.
7. Remove the tool, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint and pull the ball joint out of
the steering/suspension arm. Inspect the ball joint boot and replace it if damaged.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Lower Ball Joint
Lower
1. Remove steering knuckle. Refer to ``Steering Knuckle, Hub & Bearing, Replace'' for procedure.
2. Remove lower ball joint dust cover snap ring, then the dust boot.
3. Remove ball joint snap ring, then using ball joint removal and installation tool 07965-SB00100
and ball joint removal base 07965-SB00200, press ball joint out of steering knuckle.
5. Press ball joint into steering knuckle using ball joint removal and installation tool 07965-SB00100
and ball joint installation base 07965-SB00300.
Upper
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Lower Ball Joint > Page 2794
1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels.
3. Remove upper ball joint cotter pin and nut, then using a suitable ball joint removal tool, remove
ball joint from steering knuckle.
4. Remove upper ball joint to upper arm attaching bolts, then the ball joint.
Lower
1. Remove steering knuckle. Refer to ``Steering Knuckle, Hub & Bearing, Replace'' for procedure.
2. Remove lower ball joint dust cover snap ring, then the dust boot.
3. Remove ball joint snap ring, then using ball joint removal and installation tool 07965-SB00100
and ball joint removal base 07965-SB00200, press ball joint out of steering knuckle.
5. Press ball joint into steering knuckle using ball joint removal and installation tool 07965-SB00100
and ball joint installation base 07965-SB00300.
Upper
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Lower Ball Joint > Page 2796
1. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels.
3. Remove upper ball joint cotter pin and nut, then using a suitable ball joint removal tool, remove
ball joint from steering knuckle.
4. Remove upper ball joint to upper arm attaching bolts, then the ball joint.
PRELUDE JHMBA4...KC05583
SUSPENSION
PROBLEM
A rattling noise coming from the front or rear suspension while driving over small bumps or uneven
surfaces.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the upper arm assembly(s) that have the deteriorated bushings. Install new upper arm
assembly(s) listed under PARTS INFORMATION, as described in the service manual.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
PRELUDE JHMBA4...KC05583
SUSPENSION
PROBLEM
A rattling noise coming from the front or rear suspension while driving over small bumps or uneven
surfaces.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the upper arm assembly(s) that have the deteriorated bushings. Install new upper arm
assembly(s) listed under PARTS INFORMATION, as described in the service manual.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
3. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels and spindle nut.
4. Remove caliper and wire aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose.
5. Remove brake disc attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching
screw holes to pull disc from hub. When tightening screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent
cocking the brake disc.
7. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod end remover.
8. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way.
9. Using a suitable jawed puller, separate ball joint and lower arm.
10. Remove upper ball joint shield, then cotter pin and nut.
11. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm using a suitable ball joint remover.
12. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off driveshaft.
15. Remove remaining splash guard to knuckle attaching screw, then the splash guard.
16. Remove outboard dust seal and snap ring from steering knuckle, then the outboard inner
bearing race and bearing.
17. Flip knuckle over, then remove inboard dust seal, inboard inner bearing race and bearing.
18. Using a suitable press, remove bearing outer race from steering knuckle.
21. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Figs. 3 and 4, for torque specifications.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Radius Arm > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Radius Arm: Service and Repair
Fig. 2 Shock absorber attachments. 1984-87 Prelude & 1988 Prelude less 4 wheel steering
4. On models so equipped, remove stabilizer bar locknuts and mounting bolts, then stabilizer bar.
5. Remove radius arm nuts and bolts, then radius arm, Figs. 2 and 3.
6. Remove shock absorber pinch bolt, then separate hub carrier from shock absorber.
Torque Specifications
Lower control arm bolts: 40 ft. lbs. (5.5 kg-m). Shock absorber pinch bolt: 40 ft. lbs. (5.5 kg-m).
Radius arm to frame bushing bolt: 64 ft. lbs. (8.5 kg-m). Radius arm to hub carrier inner bolt: 40 ft.
lbs. (5.5 kg-m). Radius arm to hub carrier outer bolt: 74 ft. lbs. (10.2 kg-m). Backing plate bolts: 40
ft. lbs. (5.5 kg-m). Stabilizer bar bolts: 16 ft. lbs. (2.2 kg-m).
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Bushing >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Stabilizer Bushing: > 89044 > Dec > 89 >
Suspension - Noise From Front or Rear
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
A "grunting" noise coming from either the front or rear suspension when driving over uneven road
surfaces. This noise is especially noticeable on cold weather start-ups.
PROBABLE CAUSE
"Stick-slip" friction (stiction) between the stabilizer bar and its mounting bushing.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Remove the mounting bolts and the two front and two rear stabilizer bar bushings.
2. Remove all traces of grease or silicone from the stabilizer bar in the area of the bushing.
3. Replace the stabilizer bar bushings and mounting bolts with the parts listed under Parts
Information.
H/C 3341542
H/C 3418852
H/C 0672915
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Stabilizer Bushing: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Noise From Front or Rear
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
A "grunting" noise coming from either the front or rear suspension when driving over uneven road
surfaces. This noise is especially noticeable on cold weather start-ups.
PROBABLE CAUSE
"Stick-slip" friction (stiction) between the stabilizer bar and its mounting bushing.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Remove the mounting bolts and the two front and two rear stabilizer bar bushings.
2. Remove all traces of grease or silicone from the stabilizer bar in the area of the bushing.
3. Replace the stabilizer bar bushings and mounting bolts with the parts listed under Parts
Information.
H/C 3341542
H/C 3418852
H/C 0672915
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ): Customer Interest Suspension - Noise From Rear When Driving
On Bumpy Roads
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
A jingling noise is heard from the rear when driving on bumpy roads.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The sounds of the rear suspension springs and damper valves working are being transmitted into
the passenger compartment.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
3. Apply two overlapping pieces of the EPT 10T sealer over the top of a rear damper and mount.
Leave some clearance above the center rod so the damper does not pull the sealer loose as it
moves up and down.
PARTS INFORMATION
Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ): All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Noise From Rear
When Driving On Bumpy Roads
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
A jingling noise is heard from the rear when driving on bumpy roads.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The sounds of the rear suspension springs and damper valves working are being transmitted into
the passenger compartment.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
3. Apply two overlapping pieces of the EPT 10T sealer over the top of a rear damper and mount.
Leave some clearance above the center rod so the damper does not pull the sealer loose as it
moves up and down.
PARTS INFORMATION
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: Customer Interest Suspension - Noise From Rear When
Driving On Bumpy Roads
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
A jingling noise is heard from the rear when driving on bumpy roads.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The sounds of the rear suspension springs and damper valves working are being transmitted into
the passenger compartment.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
3. Apply two overlapping pieces of the EPT 10T sealer over the top of a rear damper and mount.
Leave some clearance above the center rod so the damper does not pull the sealer loose as it
moves up and down.
PARTS INFORMATION
Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Noise From Rear
When Driving On Bumpy Roads
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
A jingling noise is heard from the rear when driving on bumpy roads.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The sounds of the rear suspension springs and damper valves working are being transmitted into
the passenger compartment.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
3. Apply two overlapping pieces of the EPT 10T sealer over the top of a rear damper and mount.
Leave some clearance above the center rod so the damper does not pull the sealer loose as it
moves up and down.
PARTS INFORMATION
3. Remove upper strut base mounting nuts and the strut assembly.
4. Insert upper base studs through mounting holes ensuring that alignment tab on shock body
faces toward inside, then install base mounting nuts hand tight.
5. Install damper fork over drive axle and lower arm, then slide fork over lower end of shock
absorber, aligning tab on shock with slot in fork.
6. Install damper fork retaining bolt and pinch bolt hand tight.
7. Position suitable jack under knuckle hub, then raise knuckle until weight of vehicle is supported
by damper assembly.
8. With weight of vehicle supported by damper, torque damper fork retaining bolt to 47 ft. lbs.,
damper fork pinch bolt to 32 ft. lbs. and shock absorber base nuts to 29 ft. lbs.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Front Strut > Page 2869
a. Remove stabilizer bar from lower control arm. b. Loosen lower arm bolt, Fig. 3. c. Loosen radius
rod nut and rear hub carrier to lower control arm bolt.
4. On all models, remove shock absorber locking bolt, then remove shock absorber from rear hub
carrier.
5. Remove upper shock absorber mounting nuts, then compress the shock absorber and remove.
6. Reverse procedure to install. Torque shock absorber upper mounting nuts to 16 ft. lbs. on
1984-87 models, 28 ft. lbs. on 1988 models; lower arm bolt and shock absorber locking bolt to 40
ft. lbs. on 1984-87 models, 47 ft. lbs. on 1988 models. On 1984-87 models, torque rear hub carrier
to lower control arm bolt to 60 ft. lbs., radius rod nut to 47 ft. lbs. and stabilizer bolt to 16 ft. lbs.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Adjustments
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments
1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, remove wheels, then remove brake pads as outlined in ``Disc
Brakes Section.''
2. Remove grease cap, cotter pin, pin holder and pin holder.
3. Lubricate spindle threads, install spindle nut and torque nut to 18 ft. lbs.
4. Rotate brake disc several revolutions, then torque spindle nut to 18 ft. lbs.
6. Loosen spindle nut until it just breaks free, but does not turn (0 ft. lbs.), then torque nut to 40 ft.
lbs.
7. Install pin holder with slot as close as possible to hole in spindle, tighten nut just enough to align
slot, then install cotter pin and grease cap.
8. Check rotating torque of disc and hub assembly with suitable spring scale.
9. If reading is not 0.9-4 lbs., check for improperly tightened spindle nut or damaged bearings.
10. Reinstall brake pads and wheels, depress and release brake pedal several times to seat pads
against brake disc, then lower vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
3. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels and spindle nut.
4. Remove caliper and wire aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose.
5. Remove brake disc attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching
screw holes to pull disc from hub. When tightening screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent
cocking the brake disc.
7. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod end remover.
8. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way.
9. Using a suitable jawed puller, separate ball joint and lower arm.
10. Remove upper ball joint shield, then cotter pin and nut.
11. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm using a suitable ball joint remover.
12. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off driveshaft.
15. Remove remaining splash guard to knuckle attaching screw, then the splash guard.
16. Remove outboard dust seal and snap ring from steering knuckle, then the outboard inner
bearing race and bearing.
17. Flip knuckle over, then remove inboard dust seal, inboard inner bearing race and bearing.
18. Using a suitable press, remove bearing outer race from steering knuckle.
21. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Figs. 3 and 4, for torque specifications.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 2876
1. Raise and support vehicle, the remove caliper and mounting bracket as outlined in ``Disc Brakes
Section.'' It is not necessary to disconnect brake hose from caliper.
2. Remove grease cap, cotter pin, retainer, nut and washer, then remove disc and hub assembly,
taking care not to drop outer bearing.
3. Remove outer bearing from hub, drive out rear grease seal using suitable punch, then remove
rear bearing.
4. Clean bearings, hub cavity, spindle, washer, nut, pin holder and grease cap with suitable solvent
and blow dry with compressed air. Keep solvent away from brake contact surface. Do not spin dry
bearings as bearings will be damaged.
5. Inspect bearings and races, and replace if damaged, scored, pitted or excessively worn.
a. Drive races from hub, positioning suitable drift in slots behind each race, Fig. 6. b. Position new
race squarely in hub and seat race in hub using suitable driver, Fig. 6.
7. Pack bearings with grease, working grease through wide if bearing with palm of hand, then coat
outer surfaces of rollers with grease.
8. Pack grease in hub cavity behind inner and outer bearing races.
9. Place inner bearing in hub, install new grease seal using suitable driver, then coat seal lip with
thin film of grease.
10. Mount hub assembly on spindle, install outer bearing, washer and nut, then adjust bearings as
outlined.
11. Pack grease cap approximately 1/4 full of grease, install new seal, if equipped, then install new
grease cap.
12. Install caliper assembly and wheels, depress and release brake pedal several times to seat
pads against rotor, then lower vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Hub > Axle Nut > Component Information >
Specifications
Axle Nut: Specifications
TORQUE..............................................................................................................................................
..........................................................Ft.lbs. (N.m)
87-91
All MODELS
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
The steering wheel oscillates, or shimmies, when driving between 58 and 62 mph. It may be most
noticeable on smooth roads, and may vary with slight steering inputs.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dynamically balance the wheel and tire assembly off the car. Then, if necessary, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to balance the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly on the car.
1. Drive the car on a smooth surface between 58 and 62 mph. Turn the steering wheel slightly, and
allow the steering to self-center. Repeat this several times and observe the steering wheel motion.
If the steering wheel does not oscillate, or the movement is different than shown below, the car
does not have an imbalance problem. Do not continue with this procedure.
NOTE:
To verify the balancer's accuracy and calibration, refer to the DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL
BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK.
3. Reinstall the balanced wheel/tire assemblies and torque the wheel nuts to 80 lb.ft. Do not use an
impact wrench to snug up or torque the wheel nuts; it may damage or distort the wheel and cause
steering wheel oscillation.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy > Page 2890
4. Road test the car and check for steering wheel oscillation. If it still oscillates, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to do a finish balance on the front wheel/tire/hub/disc assemblies.
NOTE:
Refer to section 4 of the Hofmann DAFB-10 Finish Wheel Balancer Operator's Manual that came
with the unit for detailed instructions.
Use this procedure to determine if the balancer is accurate to within 5 grams of imbalance. If the
balancer is not accurate to within 5 grams, it must be calibrated or repaired before being used to
correct a steering wheel oscillation problem. You will need a Honda factory or accessory alloy
wheel only, with no tire mounted, to perform this procedure.
1. Before starting, make sure the wheel has no balance weights. Perform a static balance, adding
weights as necessary to only one side of the wheel.
2. Loosen the wheel, rotate it 901, tighten the wheel, and recheck the balance. Repeat this three
more times, until the wheel returns to its original position. The balancer should not indicate any
more than 5 grams of additional weight is needed during this procedure. If more than 5 grams is
indicated, calibrate or repair the balancer.
3. Remove the weights just installed. Make sure the balancer is set to its finest balancing mode
(accuracy within 5 grams).
4. Perform a dynamic balance, adding weights as indicated by the balancer to both sides of the
wheel.
5. Once the wheel is in dynamic balance, add an additional 5 grams at any point on the rim and
recheck the balance.
The balancer should indicate that 5 grams is needed on the same side of the wheel at a point
exactly opposite the weight you added. If so, the balancer is in calibration.
If the balancer indicates that more than 10 grams is needed, or the indicated position is more than
1.5 inches from the point exactly opposite the weight you added, then the balancer needs
calibration or repair.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
06-082
This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda
automobiles and light trucks.
To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair
Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster
has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA
website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers.
Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on
the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer
to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ Chemical cement
^ Liquid buffer
^ Rim-bead sealer
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ Tire crayons
^ Awl or probe
^ Low speed buffer with quick release chuck and exhaust hose
^ Tire spreader
^ Inspection lamp
Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection.
Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury.
NOTE:
If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as
recommended by the RMA.
PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if
no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated,
dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to
the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION,
select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a
Shimmy
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a Shimmy
Model ALL
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
The steering wheel oscillates, or shimmies, when driving between 58 and 62 mph. It may be most
noticeable on smooth roads, and may vary with slight steering inputs.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Dynamically balance the wheel and tire assembly off the car. Then, if necessary, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to balance the wheel/tire/hub/disc assembly on the car.
1. Drive the car on a smooth surface between 58 and 62 mph. Turn the steering wheel slightly, and
allow the steering to self-center. Repeat this several times and observe the steering wheel motion.
If the steering wheel does not oscillate, or the movement is different than shown below, the car
does not have an imbalance problem. Do not continue with this procedure.
If the steering wheel oscillates as shown, continue with this procedure.
2. Dynamically balance all four wheel/tire assemblies off the car. Make sure the balancer is capable
of balancing to an accuracy of within 5 grams. Use only Honda wheel weights (see PARTS
INFORMATION).
NOTE:
To verify the balancer's accuracy and calibration, refer to the DYNAMIC OFF-CAR WHEEL
BALANCER CALIBRATION CHECK.
3. Reinstall the balanced wheel/tire assemblies and torque the wheel nuts to 80 lb.ft. Do not use an
impact wrench to snug up or torque the wheel nuts; it may damage or distort the wheel and cause
steering wheel oscillation.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 94025 > Aug > 94 > Steering - Wheel Oscillates or Has a
Shimmy > Page 2902
4. Road test the car and check for steering wheel oscillation. If it still oscillates, use the Hofmann
Finish Wheel Balancer to do a finish balance on the front wheel/tire/hub/disc assemblies.
NOTE:
Refer to section 4 of the Hofmann DAFB-10 Finish Wheel Balancer Operator's Manual that came
with the unit for detailed instructions.
Use this procedure to determine if the balancer is accurate to within 5 grams of imbalance. If the
balancer is not accurate to within 5 grams, it must be calibrated or repaired before being used to
correct a steering wheel oscillation problem. You will need a Honda factory or accessory alloy
wheel only, with no tire mounted, to perform this procedure.
1. Before starting, make sure the wheel has no balance weights. Perform a static balance, adding
weights as necessary to only one side of the wheel.
2. Loosen the wheel, rotate it 901, tighten the wheel, and recheck the balance. Repeat this three
more times, until the wheel returns to its original position. The balancer should not indicate any
more than 5 grams of additional weight is needed during this procedure. If more than 5 grams is
indicated, calibrate or repair the balancer.
3. Remove the weights just installed. Make sure the balancer is set to its finest balancing mode
(accuracy within 5 grams).
4. Perform a dynamic balance, adding weights as indicated by the balancer to both sides of the
wheel.
5. Once the wheel is in dynamic balance, add an additional 5 grams at any point on the rim and
recheck the balance.
The balancer should indicate that 5 grams is needed on the same side of the wheel at a point
exactly opposite the weight you added. If so, the balancer is in calibration.
If the balancer indicates that more than 10 grams is needed, or the indicated position is more than
1.5 inches from the point exactly opposite the weight you added, then the balancer needs
calibration or repair.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration,
and get a decision, before starting work.
06-082
This service bulletin provides the resource information required to repair tubeless tires on Honda
automobiles and light trucks.
To properly repair a tire, follow the Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA) "Puncture Repair
Procedures for Passenger and Light Truck Tires" outlined on the RMA wall poster. One wall poster
has been provided to your dealership. Additional posters can be ordered through Helm, the RMA
website, www.rma.org, or the tire manufacturers.
Michelin(R) PAX System(TM), tires can be repaired using the same repair procedures described on
the RMA poster. Whenever you repair a PAX System tire, you must inspect the support ring. Refer
to the PAX System support ring section of this service bulletin for inspection procedures.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
^ Chemical cement
^ Liquid buffer
^ Rim-bead sealer
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ Tire crayons
^ Awl or probe
^ Low speed buffer with quick release chuck and exhaust hose
^ Tire spreader
^ Inspection lamp
Never repair a tire without removing the tire from the wheel for internal inspection.
Never repair a tire with a tread injury larger than 1/4 inch (6 mm).
Never use only a plug (stem) or a patch only to repair a tire injury.
NOTE:
If the angle of the tire injury exceeds 25 degrees, you must use the two-piece repair system as
recommended by the RMA.
PAX System support rings are not repairable, under any circumstances, but they can be reused if
no damage is found during a thorough inspection. If a PAX System tire ran flat or underinflated,
dismount the tire from the wheel and inspect the wheel, tire, and support ring for damage. Refer to
the Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin in ISIS. Enter SEARCH BY PUBLICATION,
select Job Aids, then select Michelin PAX Support Rings Technical Bulletin from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Tires: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: This vehicle has a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). Refer to the SRS
component and wiring location view in order to determine whether you are performing service on or
near the SRS components or the SRS wiring. when you are performing service on or near the SRS
components or the SRS wiring, refer to the SRS service information. failure to follow warnings
could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded SRS system
repairs.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 2912
Tires: Vehicle Damage Warnings
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener,
use ONLY the exact part number for that application. Honda will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. Honda will also call out the fasteners that require thread
lockers or thread sealant. Unless otherwise specified, do not use supplemental coatings (Paints,
greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces. Generally,
such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and the joint clamping force, and may damage
the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and specifications.
Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service
Precautions > Page 2913
Replacement wheels or tires must be equivalent to the originals in load capacity, specified
dimension and mounting configuration. Improper size or type may affect bearing life, brake
performance, speedometer/odometer calibration, vehicle ground clearance and tire clearance to
the body and chassis. All model are equipped with metric sized tubeless steel belted radial tires.
Correct tire pressures and driving habits have an important influence on tire life. Heavy cornering,
excessively rapid acceleration and unnecessary sharp braking increase premature and uneven
wear.
The original equipment tires have built-in tread wear indicators (1) to show when tires need
replacement. These indicators may appear as wide bands. When the indicators appear in two or
more grooves at three locations, tire replacement is recommended.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes
Tires: Testing and Inspection Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes
CAUTION: Similar wear patterns can be caused by worn suspension parts, misalignment of wheels
and tires, and other suspension related problems.
Spotty Wear
Wear localized on shoulder sections, and in an extreme cases, the tire becomes polygonal in
shape. 1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Hub or knuckle out of round or distorted. 3. Play
in hub bearings or ball joint. 4. Rotating parts out of balance.
1. Rotating parts out of balance. 2. Tire or wheel out of round. 3. Hub or knuckle out of round or
distorted.
Part 1 Of 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 2918
Part 2 Of 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 2919
Tires: Testing and Inspection Diagnosis List
1. Front tire wear is different from rear. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3. Left
and right front tire wear is unequal. 4. Left and right rear tire wear is unequal.
1. Left and right front tire wear is unequal. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3.
Front tire treads have scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of tread ribs or blocks.
4. There is cupping, flat spotting etc.
1. Hard ride. 2. Poor steering stability. 3. Rapid and uneven wear at center of the tread.
1. Tire squeal on turns. 2. Hard steering. 3. Rapid and uneven wear on the edges of the tread. 4.
Tire rim bruises and rupture. 5. Tire cord breakage. 6. High tire temperatures. 7. Reduced handling.
8. Reduced fuel economy.
Irregular and/or premature wear has many causes. Some of them are incorrect inflation pressures,
lack of tire rotation, poor driving habits or improper wheel alignment. Incorrect inflation is common
cause of tire premature wear.
NOTE: Due to their design, radial tires tend to wear faster in the shoulder area, particularly on the
front tires. This makes regular rotation especially necessary. After rotation, be sure to check wheel
nut torque, and set tire pressures.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 2921
Tires: Testing and Inspection
CAUTION: Similar wear patterns can be caused by worn suspension parts, misalignment of wheels
and tires, and other suspension related problems.
Spotty Wear
Wear localized on shoulder sections, and in an extreme cases, the tire becomes polygonal in
shape. 1. Tire or wheel out of round or distorted. 2. Hub or knuckle out of round or distorted. 3. Play
in hub bearings or ball joint. 4. Rotating parts out of balance.
1. Rotating parts out of balance. 2. Tire or wheel out of round. 3. Hub or knuckle out of round or
distorted.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 2922
Localized Tread Wear
1. Once spotty wear develops in tread due to hard braking or abrupt starting, localized wear tends
to be promoted.
Part 1 Of 2
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 2924
Part 2 Of 2
Diagnosis List
1. Front tire wear is different from rear. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3. Left
and right front tire wear is unequal. 4. Left and right rear tire wear is unequal.
1. Left and right front tire wear is unequal. 2. Uneven wear exists across the tread of any tire. 3.
Front tire treads have scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of tread ribs or blocks.
4. There is cupping, flat spotting etc.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 2925
1. Hard ride. 2. Poor steering stability. 3. Rapid and uneven wear at center of the tread.
1. Tire squeal on turns. 2. Hard steering. 3. Rapid and uneven wear on the edges of the tread. 4.
Tire rim bruises and rupture. 5. Tire cord breakage. 6. High tire temperatures. 7. Reduced handling.
8. Reduced fuel economy.
Irregular and/or premature wear has many causes. Some of them are incorrect inflation pressures,
lack of tire rotation, poor driving habits or improper wheel alignment. Incorrect inflation is common
cause of tire premature wear.
NOTE: Due to their design, radial tires tend to wear faster in the shoulder area, particularly on the
front tires. This makes regular rotation especially necessary. After rotation, be sure to check wheel
nut torque, and set tire pressures.
"Lead/Pull" is vehicle deviation from a straight path, on a level road with no pressure on the
steering wheel. Lead is usually caused by:
The way in which a tire is built can produce lead in a car. An example of this is placement of the
belt. Off-center belts on radial tires can cause the tire to develop a side force while rolling straight
down the road and the tire will tend to roll like a cone. The "Radial Tire Lead/Pull Correction" chart
should be used to make sure that front wheel alignment is not mistaken for tire lead. Rear tires will
not cause lead/pull.
Radial Tire Waddle
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Abnormal Tire Ahead Wear and Major Causes > Page 2926
Waddle is side-to-side movement at the front and/or rear of the car. It can be caused by the steel
belt not being straight within the tire, or by excessive lateral runout of the tire or wheel. It is most
noticeable at low speed, about 8 to 48 km/h (5 to 30 mph). It may also cause rough ride at 80 to
113 km/h (50 to 70 mph). The car can be road tested to see which end of the car has the faulty tire.
If the tire causing the waddle is on the rear, the rear end of the car will "waddle". From the driver's
seat, it feels as if someone is pushing on the side of the car. If the faulty tire is on the front, the
waddle is more easily seen. The front sheet metal appears to be moving back and forth. It feels as
if the driver's seat is the pivot point in the car. Another more time-consuming method of determining
the faulty tire is substituting tire and wheel assemblies that are known to be good. Follow these
steps:
1. Drive the car to determine if the waddle is coming from the front or rear. 2. Install tire and wheel
assemblies known to be good (from a similar car) in place of those on the end of the car which is
waddling. If the waddle
3. Road test again. If improvement is noted, install the original tire and wheel assemblies one at a
time until the faulty tire is found. If no
improvement is noted, install tires known to be good in place of all four. Then, install the originals
one at a time until the faulty tire is found.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel
Tires: Service and Repair Separating the Tire From the Wheel
Use a tire changing machine to demount tires. Do not use hand tools or tire irons alone to remove
the tire from the wheel. Damage to the tire beads or wheel rim could result. Follow the tire changing
machine manufacturer's instructions to properly separate the tire from the wheel.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 2929
Tires: Service and Repair Mounting the Tire on the Wheel
CAUTION: Recommended vehicle tire mounting and inflation procedures are especially important
with radial tires. Failure to follow these procedures can cause bead deformation in both tube type
and tubeless tires due to incorrect bead seating. Bead deformation may lead to chafing, lower
sidewall and bead area cracking, eccentric wear, ride vibration and nonretreadable casings. Only
use rims approved for radial tire usage by the rim manufacture.
1. Clean the rim. Remove all rust and other foreign material. 2. Lubricate tire beads and rim bead
seats with an approved rubber lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not use silicon base lubricants. This could cause the tire to slip on the wheel.
b. Align air valve and tire balancing match marks (about 8 mm diameter paint mark). Hold in this
position and inflate the until the tire beads are
firmly seated on the rim against the flanges (steel wheel model only).
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance:
a. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically
unbalanced cause a bouncing action called
b. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that
when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
NOTE: Using wheel balancing equipment. Follow the tire balancing machine manufacturer's
instructions to properly balance wheel and tire. Balance weight for the wheel should not exceed
170 g in total, and 140 g is the maximum amount for either side.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 2931
Tire rotation is recommended to equalize wear for longer life. If the following conditions are noted,
rotate the tires:
- Left and right rear tire wear is unequal. Check wheel alignment if the following conditions are
noted:
- Front tire treads have a scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of the tread ribs or
blocks.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 2932
Tires: Service and Repair
Use a tire changing machine to demount tires. Do not use hand tools or tire irons alone to remove
the tire from the wheel. Damage to the tire beads or wheel rim could result. Follow the tire changing
machine manufacturer's instructions to properly separate the tire from the wheel.
CAUTION: Recommended vehicle tire mounting and inflation procedures are especially important
with radial tires. Failure to follow these procedures can cause bead deformation in both tube type
and tubeless tires due to incorrect bead seating. Bead deformation may lead to chafing, lower
sidewall and bead area cracking, eccentric wear, ride vibration and nonretreadable casings. Only
use rims approved for radial tire usage by the rim manufacture.
1. Clean the rim. Remove all rust and other foreign material. 2. Lubricate tire beads and rim bead
seats with an approved rubber lubricant.
CAUTION: Do not use silicon base lubricants. This could cause the tire to slip on the wheel.
b. Align air valve and tire balancing match marks (about 8 mm diameter paint mark). Hold in this
position and inflate the until the tire beads are
firmly seated on the rim against the flanges (steel wheel model only).
Balancing
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 2933
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance:
a. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically
unbalanced cause a bouncing action called
b. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that
when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
NOTE: Using wheel balancing equipment. Follow the tire balancing machine manufacturer's
instructions to properly balance wheel and tire. Balance weight for the wheel should not exceed
170 g in total, and 140 g is the maximum amount for either side.
Tire Rotation
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 2934
Tire rotation is recommended to equalize wear for longer life. If the following conditions are noted,
rotate the tires:
- Left and right rear tire wear is unequal. Check wheel alignment if the following conditions are
noted:
- Front tire treads have a scuffed appearance with "feather" edges on one side of the tread ribs or
blocks.
Inflation of Tires
Tire pressure, in cold condition (after vehicle has set for three hours or more, and driven less than
one mile) should be checked monthly or before any extended trip. Tire pressure increases
approximately 15% when the tires become hot during driving. Tire pressure specification is shown
on the label located on the left door lock pillar.
NOTE: Check the tire pressure whenever irregular wear is found. Tire inflation greatly affects tire
wear. If the alignment check does not reveal any alignment problems, check the condition of the
shock absorbers and wheel/tire balance.
Tire Replacement
TIRE REPLACEMENT
When replacement is necessary, the original metric the size should be used. Most metric tire sizes
do not have exact corresponding alphanumeric tire sizes. It is recommended that new tires be
installed in pairs on the same axle. If necessary to replace only one tire, it should be paired with tire
having the most tread, to equalize braking traction.
CAUTION: Do not mix different types of tires such as radial, bias and bias-belted tires except in
emergencies, because vehicle handling may be seriously affected and may result in loss of control.
Tire Dismounting
Remove valve cap on valve step and deflate the tire. Then use a tire changing machine to mount or
dismount tires. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instruction. Do not use hand tools or tire lever
alone to change tires as they may damage the tire beads or wheel rim.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Separating the Tire From the Wheel > Page 2935
Tire Mounting
Rim bead seats should be cleaned with a wire brush or coarse steel wool to remove lubricants, and
light rust. Before mounting a tire, the bead area should be well lubricated with an approved tire
lubricant. After mounting, inflate the tire to 196 kPa (28 psi) so that beads are completely seated.
Inflate the air to specified pressure and install valve cap to the stem.
WARNING: Never stand over tire when inflating. bead may break when bead snaps over rim's
safety hump and cause serious personal injury. never exceed 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure when
inflating. if 240 kPa (35 psi) pressure will not seat beads, deflate, re-lubricate and re-inflate. over
inflation may cause the bead to break and cause serious personal injury.
Tire Repair
There are many different materials on the market used to repair tires. Manufacturers have
published detailed instructions on how and when to repair tires. These instructions can be obtained
from the tire manufacturer if they are not included with the repair kit.
Wheel Inspection
Damaged wheels and wheels with excessive run-out must be replaced. Wheel run out at rim (Base
on hub Bore):
Deposits of mud, etc. must be cleaned from the inside of the rim. The tire should be inspected for
the following: match mount paint marks, bent rims, bulges, irregular tire wear, proper wheel size
and inflation pressure. Then balance according to the equipment manufacturer's recommendations.
There are two types of wheel and tire balance. Static balance is the equal distribution of weight
around the wheel. Assemblies that are statically unbalanced cause a bouncing action called tramp.
This condition will eventually cause uneven tire wear. Dynamic balance is the equal distribution of
weight on each side of the wheel center-line so that when the tire spins there is no tendency for the
assembly to move from side to side. Assemblies that are dynamically unbalanced may cause
shimmy.
WARNING: Stones should be removed from the tread to avoid operator injury during spin
balancing and to obtain a good balance.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Adjustments
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments
1. Raise and support rear of vehicle, remove wheels, then remove brake pads as outlined in ``Disc
Brakes Section.''
2. Remove grease cap, cotter pin, pin holder and pin holder.
3. Lubricate spindle threads, install spindle nut and torque nut to 18 ft. lbs.
4. Rotate brake disc several revolutions, then torque spindle nut to 18 ft. lbs.
6. Loosen spindle nut until it just breaks free, but does not turn (0 ft. lbs.), then torque nut to 40 ft.
lbs.
7. Install pin holder with slot as close as possible to hole in spindle, tighten nut just enough to align
slot, then install cotter pin and grease cap.
8. Check rotating torque of disc and hub assembly with suitable spring scale.
9. If reading is not 0.9-4 lbs., check for improperly tightened spindle nut or damaged bearings.
10. Reinstall brake pads and wheels, depress and release brake pedal several times to seat pads
against brake disc, then lower vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front Suspension
3. Raise and support front of vehicle, then remove front wheels and spindle nut.
4. Remove caliper and wire aside. Do not allow caliper assembly to hang from brake hose.
5. Remove brake disc attaching screws, then thread two 8 x 1.25 x 12 mm bolts into attaching
screw holes to pull disc from hub. When tightening screws, turn only two turns at a time to prevent
cocking the brake disc.
7. Remove tie rod end using suitable tie rod end remover.
8. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin, then loosen ball joint nut half way.
9. Using a suitable jawed puller, separate ball joint and lower arm.
10. Remove upper ball joint shield, then cotter pin and nut.
11. Separate upper ball joint from upper arm using a suitable ball joint remover.
12. Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly by sliding off driveshaft.
15. Remove remaining splash guard to knuckle attaching screw, then the splash guard.
16. Remove outboard dust seal and snap ring from steering knuckle, then the outboard inner
bearing race and bearing.
17. Flip knuckle over, then remove inboard dust seal, inboard inner bearing race and bearing.
18. Using a suitable press, remove bearing outer race from steering knuckle.
21. Reverse procedure to install. Refer to Figs. 3 and 4, for torque specifications.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 2943
1. Raise and support vehicle, the remove caliper and mounting bracket as outlined in ``Disc Brakes
Section.'' It is not necessary to disconnect brake hose from caliper.
2. Remove grease cap, cotter pin, retainer, nut and washer, then remove disc and hub assembly,
taking care not to drop outer bearing.
3. Remove outer bearing from hub, drive out rear grease seal using suitable punch, then remove
rear bearing.
4. Clean bearings, hub cavity, spindle, washer, nut, pin holder and grease cap with suitable solvent
and blow dry with compressed air. Keep solvent away from brake contact surface. Do not spin dry
bearings as bearings will be damaged.
5. Inspect bearings and races, and replace if damaged, scored, pitted or excessively worn.
a. Drive races from hub, positioning suitable drift in slots behind each race, Fig. 6. b. Position new
race squarely in hub and seat race in hub using suitable driver, Fig. 6.
7. Pack bearings with grease, working grease through wide if bearing with palm of hand, then coat
outer surfaces of rollers with grease.
8. Pack grease in hub cavity behind inner and outer bearing races.
9. Place inner bearing in hub, install new grease seal using suitable driver, then coat seal lip with
thin film of grease.
10. Mount hub assembly on spindle, install outer bearing, washer and nut, then adjust bearings as
outlined.
11. Pack grease cap approximately 1/4 full of grease, install new seal, if equipped, then install new
grease cap.
12. Install caliper assembly and wheels, depress and release brake pedal several times to seat
pads against rotor, then lower vehicle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Cover > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Wheel Cover: > 89031 > Mar > 90 > Wheels - Emblem In Wheel Cover
Fades or Becomes Detached
Wheel Cover: Customer Interest Wheels - Emblem In Wheel Cover Fades or Becomes Detached
Model Applicable To
AFFECTED
SUSPENSION Issue Date MAR 16, 1990 Wheel Cover Emblem Replacement (Supersedes
89-031, dated October 6, 1989) SYMPTOM
The "H" emblem in the center of the plastic wheel cover fades or becomes detached.
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
All 1986-89 cars with recessed emblem All 1990 Accords All 1990 Preludes
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Inspect the "H" emblem on all fourwheels. Replace only the emblems that are damaged.
1. Using a sharp blade, lift the tip of the "H" emblem out of the recess in the wheel cover. Be
careful not to scratch the painted surface of the wheel cover. Peel the old emblem off with your
fingers.
NOTE: If the adhesive remains stuck to the wheel cover, roll the adhesive off with your finger tip.
CAUTION: Don't use solvent to remove the adhesive. Some solvents can damage the painted
surface of the cover.
2. Remove the protective backing from the new "H" emblem listed under "PARTS INFORMATION".
Attach the new "H" emblem to the wheel cover. Rub the new emblem with a clean cloth to assure it
sticks evenly.
PARTS INFORMATION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Cover > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Wheel Cover: > 89031 > Mar > 90 > Wheels - Emblem In Wheel Cover
Fades or Becomes Detached > Page 2952
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour (for replacement of one or all four emblems)
AFFECTED
SUSPENSION Issue Date MAR 16, 1990 Wheel Cover Emblem Replacement (Supersedes
89-031, dated October 6, 1989) SYMPTOM
The "H" emblem in the center of the plastic wheel cover fades or becomes detached.
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
All 1986-89 cars with recessed emblem All 1990 Accords All 1990 Preludes
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Inspect the "H" emblem on all fourwheels. Replace only the emblems that are damaged.
1. Using a sharp blade, lift the tip of the "H" emblem out of the recess in the wheel cover. Be
careful not to scratch the painted surface of the wheel cover. Peel the old emblem off with your
fingers.
NOTE: If the adhesive remains stuck to the wheel cover, roll the adhesive off with your finger tip.
CAUTION: Don't use solvent to remove the adhesive. Some solvents can damage the painted
surface of the cover.
2. Remove the protective backing from the new "H" emblem listed under "PARTS INFORMATION".
Attach the new "H" emblem to the wheel cover. Rub the new emblem with a clean cloth to assure it
sticks evenly.
PARTS INFORMATION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Cover > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Cover: > 89031 > Mar > 90 > Wheels - Emblem In
Wheel Cover Fades or Becomes Detached > Page 2958
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Flat rate time: 0.3 hour (for replacement of one or all four emblems)
TORQUE..............................................................................................................................................
..........................................................Ft.lbs. (N.m)
87-91
All MODELS
1984-91 All...........................................................................................................................................
.............................................................80 ft/lbs
1983 Civic.............................................................................................................................................
.......................................................50-65 ft/lbs
1983 Prelude........................................................................................................................................
.........................................................72-88 ft/lbs
1983 Accord.........................................................................................................................................
........................................................72-88 ft/lbs
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information >
Specifications > Wheel Fastener Torque > Page 2967
IMPORTANT
Check all parts, including rims, lug studs, lug nuts, and mating surfaces of hubs and tire rims for
rust, damage, or dirt. Clean mating surfaces with a wire brush to remove any foreign material.
Replace any damaged parts as needed. Careless installation of tire/rim assemblies in a vehicle is a
major cause of tire installation problems. Proper installation, including fastener torque, is essential
to economical, safe and trouble free service. Use only the proper sizes and types of fasteners for
safe and proper service. Tighten the fasteners a quarter turn at a time using the tightening
sequence diagram as a guide. This is very important to prevent misalignment of the wheel.
Continue tightening the fasteners in sequence until the fasteners are tightened to the proper torque
(See WHEEL FASTENER TORQUE).
CAUTION: Improper torque or tightening sequence can cause distortion, fatigue cracks, or
alignment problems. After driving the vehicle for a short distance, recheck the wheel fastener
torque. Parts will usually seat naturally, reducing the torque on the fasteners. Retorque all
fasteners to the proper torque.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Conditioning Switch > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Testing and Inspection Mode Control Motor
1. Connect battery positive to terminal 5 of the control motor connector and negative to terminal 1
Fig. 25 .
4. The motor Should run each time the short circuit is made.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Mode Control Motor > Page 2977
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Testing and Inspection Recirculation Control Motor
1. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive to terminal 3 of the recirculation control motor
and battery negative terminal to terminal 1.
3. In FRESH mode, connect a jumper wire from terminal 1 to terminal 2. If motor fails to run in both
modes, motor is defective and must be replaced.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Mode Control Motor > Page 2978
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Testing and Inspection Vacuum Motor (Diaphragm)
2. Apply vacuum to motor. Vacuum motor should retain vacuum and linkage rod should move in.
3. If the vacuum motor does not retain vacuum, or rod does not move in, replace vacuum motor.
4. Release vacuum. The rod should return. If not, replace vacuum motor.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Cable, HVAC > Component
Information > Adjustments > Air Mix Cable
1. Disconnect cable from air mix arm on heater housing and place temperature control lever in
HOT position.
2. Fully open air mix door in front of heater core and connect cable end to control lever, Fig. 19.
3. Hold air mix door open, pull cable housing away from air mix lever just enough to remove slack
from cable but not enough to move temperature lever, then snap housing into clamp.
4. Check operation of air mix door and water valve, and adjust water valve cable as needed.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Cable, HVAC > Component
Information > Adjustments > Air Mix Cable > Page 2983
1. Disconnect control rod from shutter, Fig. 20, then apply vacuum to HEAT/DEF door actuator to
place door in defrost position.
2. Fully open defrost shutter, then connect control rod to door lever.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Cable, HVAC > Component
Information > Adjustments > Air Mix Cable > Page 2984
Air Door Cable: Adjustments Heater Valve Cable
2. Fully close water valve, connect cable end to valve lever, then snap cable housing into clamp.
3. Operate temperature lever through full range of travel, ensuring water valve position
corresponds with air mix door position.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Cable, HVAC > Component
Information > Adjustments > Air Mix Cable > Page 2985
Air Door Cable: Adjustments Vacuum Motor (Diaphragm) Installation
1. Prior to connecting vacuum motor, ensure that all doors and linkages operate smoothly, without
binding or sticking.
2. Attach diaphragm and all linkages, then apply vacuum to diaphragm and observe door
operation.
3. If vacuum motor does not allow door to open or close fully, loosen retaining screws and
reposition assembly as needed.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Blower Unit
2. On vehicles equipped with heat only, remove blower duct, Fig. 1 . On vehicles equipped with
A/C, remove blower assembly to evaporator housing sealing band.
3. Remove three mounting bolts from blower assembly, Fig. 1, then remove blower assembly.
On some models, the evaporator must be removed before removing blower motor.
6. Remove three blower motor housing attaching bolts, then the blower motor housing.
2. Install two 5mm bolts in internal thread holes in armature, then using a screwdriver to secure
assembly, remove center bolt using a suitable hex wrench, Fig. 1.
4. Remove snap ring from boss section of front plate using suitable snap ring pliers.
6. Disconnect field core and thermal protector electrical connector, then remove field core.
7. Check friction surfaces of the clutch for damage due to excessive heat or excessive grooving
due to slippage. If necessary, replace coil, pulley, bearing assembly and clutch hub as a set.
8. Install field core on compressor. Torque field core attaching screw to 30-56 inch lbs.
9. Apply thin coat of compressor oil to the boss section of front plate.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 2997
Fig. 3 Installing compressor pulley
10. Push pulley into compressor with disc surface facing upward, then drive pulley into place using
suitable tools, Fig. 3.
12. Position a suitable hex wrench into center hole from outside of armature, then install .008 inch
and .020 inch shims, one of each, from the inside. Position armature onto shaft.
13. Measure hub to pulley clearance, Fig. 4. If clearance is not .016-.024 inch, replace adjusting
shims until specified clearance is obtained.
14. Apply suitable locking compound to threads of center bolt, then torque bolt to 61-87 inch lbs.
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
The A/C warning light comes on intermittently and/or the compressor clutch is slipping.
The customer complaint may be that the A/C is performing poorly (if they do not notice the warning
light is on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
If the warning light is coming on or the A/C clutch is slipping, check the shaft seal for leakage,
usually the clutch and pulley will be coated with burnt oil if the seal is leaking.
Replace the A/C compressor seal as described in section 22 of the Service Manual.
^ Keep the shaft and housing clean. Use brake/contact cleaner for final cleaning before
reassembly.
^ The O-ring is packaged with a felt seal, so make sure the O-ring is not contaminated with lint from
the felt seal.
^ To be sure the compressor oil level is correct, add 20cc Suniso 5GS (or equivalent) refrigerant
oil.
^ Make sure the A/C wire harness is the latest design (reter to Service Bulletin 88-015 in the
Accessories section). If not, update the harness.
PARTS INFORMATION
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Seal <--> [Compressor Shaft
Seal] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/C - Compressor Front Seal Leak > Page 3002
Operation number: Compressor seal replacement: 614180 Evacuating and Charging system:
620020
Flat rate time: Compressor seal replacement: 1.8 hrs (includes clutch replacement)
Fig. 28 Diode.
NOTE: The diodes are designed to pass current in one direction and block current in the opposite
direction.
2. Connect the positive to terminal 1 and negative to terminal 2 there should be continuity.
5. Connect the positive to terminal 3 and negative to terminal 4 there should be continuity.
1. Check for continuity between terminals 3 and 4, Fig. 32. There should no continuity.
2. Connect a 12 volt battery across terminals 1 and 2. There should be continuity between 3 and 4.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection
Condenser HVAC: Testing and Inspection
The condenser may malfunction either due to leakage or restriction. If restricted, compressor
discharge pressure will be excessive. Icy or frosty spots on the condenser will indicate a partial
restriction within the condenser. Ensure all foreign matter is removed from the front of the
condenser. Similarly, bent cooling fins will block air flow through the condenser and result in high
discharge pressure.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser HVAC > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Page 3013
Condenser HVAC: Service and Repair
4. Disconnect condenser and discharge lines from condenser, then plug lines and open fittings.
6. Remove the radiator upper frame mounting bolts, Fig. 10, and position as much as required to
obtain access to condenser for removal.
7. Remove condenser.
1. Check for continuity between terminals 3 and 4, Fig. 32. There should no continuity.
2. Connect a 12 volt battery across terminals 1 and 2. There should be continuity between 3 and 4.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Control Panel <--> [Control Assembly, HVAC] >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/C Switch & Fan Switch
Fig. 47 Fan switch.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Control Panel <--> [Control Assembly, HVAC] >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/C Switch & Fan Switch > Page 3022
2. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between terminals shown in Fig. 48.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Control Panel <--> [Control Assembly, HVAC] >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > A/C Switch & Fan Switch > Page 3023
2. Using a suitable ohmmeter, check for continuity between terminals as shown in Fig. 27.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Control Panel <--> [Control Assembly, HVAC] >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 3025
Heater Control Panel: Service and Repair
2. Remove temperature assembly by removing 4 attaching screws. Remove lower screws first,
then the upper screw.
3. Remove outlet and control assembly, while loosening attaching screws at the bottom of the
panel.
Evaporator Cleaning
When a car comes in with bad A/C odor, the evaporator must be cleaned. Remove the evaporator
assembly and disassemble it. Wash the case halves, the evaporator, and the foam insulators in
mild dish soap and water. If the odor was real bad, the foam insulators should be replaced. Don't
use bleach or any other type of cleaner/disinfectant; they'll attack the surface coating on the
evaporator and make things worse in the long run.
Let the parts dry thoroughly before you reassemble them. Remove any debris from the blower,
fresh air intake, and the cowl area.
Remind the customer: interior deodorizers, perfumes, cigarette smoke generally make A/C odor
worse. The key is keeping the evaporator as dry as possible. Use RECIRC when the outside air is
humid; FRESH when the outside air is dry. Use the button to turn the A/C off the last few blocks
before you reach your destination, but leave the blower on. If necessary, you can use the different
ventilation modes to redirect the air to where it's not noticeable.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Case > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Evaporator Case: > SN920505 > May > 92 > A/C - Odors From Vents
Evaporator Case: All Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Odors From Vents
Evaporator Cleaning
When a car comes in with bad A/C odor, the evaporator must be cleaned. Remove the evaporator
assembly and disassemble it. Wash the case halves, the evaporator, and the foam insulators in
mild dish soap and water. If the odor was real bad, the foam insulators should be replaced. Don't
use bleach or any other type of cleaner/disinfectant; they'll attack the surface coating on the
evaporator and make things worse in the long run.
Let the parts dry thoroughly before you reassemble them. Remove any debris from the blower,
fresh air intake, and the cowl area.
Remind the customer: interior deodorizers, perfumes, cigarette smoke generally make A/C odor
worse. The key is keeping the evaporator as dry as possible. Use RECIRC when the outside air is
humid; FRESH when the outside air is dry. Use the button to turn the A/C off the last few blocks
before you reach your destination, but leave the blower on. If necessary, you can use the different
ventilation modes to redirect the air to where it's not noticeable.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Evaporator Core: > SN920505 > May > 92 > A/C - Odors From Vents
Evaporator Core: Customer Interest A/C - Odors From Vents
Evaporator Cleaning
When a car comes in with bad A/C odor, the evaporator must be cleaned. Remove the evaporator
assembly and disassemble it. Wash the case halves, the evaporator, and the foam insulators in
mild dish soap and water. If the odor was real bad, the foam insulators should be replaced. Don't
use bleach or any other type of cleaner/disinfectant; they'll attack the surface coating on the
evaporator and make things worse in the long run.
Let the parts dry thoroughly before you reassemble them. Remove any debris from the blower,
fresh air intake, and the cowl area.
Remind the customer: interior deodorizers, perfumes, cigarette smoke generally make A/C odor
worse. The key is keeping the evaporator as dry as possible. Use RECIRC when the outside air is
humid; FRESH when the outside air is dry. Use the button to turn the A/C off the last few blocks
before you reach your destination, but leave the blower on. If necessary, you can use the different
ventilation modes to redirect the air to where it's not noticeable.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Evaporator Core: > SN920505 > May > 92 > A/C - Odors From Vents
Evaporator Core: All Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Odors From Vents
Evaporator Cleaning
When a car comes in with bad A/C odor, the evaporator must be cleaned. Remove the evaporator
assembly and disassemble it. Wash the case halves, the evaporator, and the foam insulators in
mild dish soap and water. If the odor was real bad, the foam insulators should be replaced. Don't
use bleach or any other type of cleaner/disinfectant; they'll attack the surface coating on the
evaporator and make things worse in the long run.
Let the parts dry thoroughly before you reassemble them. Remove any debris from the blower,
fresh air intake, and the cowl area.
Remind the customer: interior deodorizers, perfumes, cigarette smoke generally make A/C odor
worse. The key is keeping the evaporator as dry as possible. Use RECIRC when the outside air is
humid; FRESH when the outside air is dry. Use the button to turn the A/C off the last few blocks
before you reach your destination, but leave the blower on. If necessary, you can use the different
ventilation modes to redirect the air to where it's not noticeable.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 3057
Evaporator Core: Testing and Inspection
A faulty evaporator will provide insufficient cooling to the vehicle. The core may be restricted with
dirt, the case may be cracked, or a seal may be leaking sufficiently to prevent cooling. If evaporator
restriction is due to icing, the expansion valve, capillary tube or suction throttling valve, if equipped,
may be at fault and should be investigated. Since there is a constant condensation of atmospheric
moisture on the outside of the evaporator coils, ensure that the draining system is unobstructed
and clean. Some vehicles have an auxiliary evaporator in the trunk or between the headliner and
the roof.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 3058
Evaporator Core: Service and Repair
2. Disconnect receiver and suction lines from evaporator, plug lines and open fittings, then remove
firewall grommets from evaporator tubes.
3. Remove both lower dash panel attaching screws, then the lower dash panel assemblies.
4. Disconnect vacuum line and electrical connector from blower motor assembly.
8. Carefully separate evaporator housing, then pull thermostat capillary tube from evaporator core,
noting position for installation.
10. Remove evaporator and expansion valve, and separate expansion valve from evaporator as
needed.
a. Use new O-rings when installing expansion valve and connecting refrigerant lines. b. Install
expansion valve and secure valve sensor against suction line with tape. c. Insert thermostat
capillary in position noted during removal, ensuring tube makes good contact with core fins.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
Dip the sensor, Fig. 32 into a pan filled with ice water, check for continuity between the terminals.
Cut off 1.5 - -0.5~C (35-33~F) Cut in 2.5 - 5~C (36-41~F) If cut off or cut in temperatures are too
low or too high, replace the thermo switch.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Expansion Valve > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection
Faulty expansion valves will be indicated by low suction and discharge pressures on the manifold
gauge set. In most cases the power element fails and the valve closes. Occasionally the inlet
screen becomes clogged with contamination or desicant beads loose in the system.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Expansion Valve > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Page 3065
Expansion Valve: Service and Repair
2. Disconnect receiver and suction lines from evaporator, plug lines and open fittings, then remove
firewall grommets from evaporator tubes.
3. Remove both lower dash panel attaching screws, then the lower dash panel assemblies.
4. Disconnect vacuum line and electrical connector from blower motor assembly.
8. Carefully separate evaporator housing, then pull thermostat capillary tube from evaporator core,
noting position for installation.
10. Remove evaporator and expansion valve, and separate expansion valve from evaporator as
needed.
a. Use new O-rings when installing expansion valve and connecting refrigerant lines. b. Install
expansion valve and secure valve sensor against suction line with tape. c. Insert thermostat
capillary in position noted during removal, ensuring tube makes good contact with core fins.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Control Valve > Heater Control Valve Cable >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows Hot Air
Heater Control Valve Cable: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Heater Blows Cold Air/A/C Blows
Hot Air
NOTE:
This article applies to all A/C-equipped Honda models that use a heater valve cable. Got a vehicle
in your shop that blows cold air from the heater or warm air from the A/C? The problem could just
be the heater valve cable has slipped off the heater valve arm.
There's a real easy fix for this problem. Slip the heater valve cable back onto the heater valve arm.
Then cut yourself a 10 mm length of 3.5 mm vacuum hose (P/N 95005-35008-10M, H/C 2325058),
and slide it onto the arm. This holds the cable on the arm nice and snug so it won't slip off.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Service and Repair
4. Position front seats in full rearward position, then remove instrument panel lower cover and front
and rear consoles.
5. Disconnect electrical connectors from fuse block, then remove fuse block attaching screws and
lower fuse box.
7. Remove radio trim panel, then disconnect antenna lead and radio electrical connector.
13. Lower steering column, then remove instrument panel to cowl attaching bolts, Fig. 40.
14. Carefully lift and pull instrument panel away from cowl to disengage from center guide pin, then
disconnect speedometer cable and remove instrument panel. Support instrument panel during
removal from guide pin.
15. Remove heater duct, then remove lower heater housing mounting nut.
16. Remove steering column bracket and duct assembly, the disconnect electrical connector at
heater control.
17. Remove heater housing to cowl attaching bolts, then remove heater housing.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Page 3074
18. Remove heater core cover from heater housing, Fig. 41.
19. Remove heater core tube clamp, then remove heater core from heater housing.
20. Reverse procedure to install. When installing instrument panel, ensure panel is properly
positioned on guide and that wiring harness are properly routed. Tighten instrument panel attaching
bolts alternately and evenly, ensuring instrument panel remains properly aligned. After refilling
cooling system, loosen engine cooling system bleed bolt located in upper radiator hose outlet. Start
engine. Tighten bleed bolt when cooling system trapped air has escaped and coolant begins to
flow.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Receiver Dryer > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection
Receiver Dryer: Testing and Inspection
Receiver-Dehydrator
A restriction inside the receiver-dehydrator will result in high head pressures if the restriction is on
the inlet side of the unit. A restriction at the outlet side will cause low head pressures and little or no
cooling. An exceedingly cold receiver-dehydrator may be restricted. If the system has been in
service for a considerable amount of time, the desicant element may have lost its moisture
absorbing ability. This condition is indicated by the constant presence of small bubbles in the sight
glass if equipped and a wide difference in temperature between the inlet and outlet
receiver-dehydrator lines.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection
07-030
(Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks)
The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new
required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller
leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find.
When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service
Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up
with the OPTIMAX Jr.
This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector.
^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3
standard AA batteries)
^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels
ORDERING INFO
*One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required
special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and
Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program,
Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.*
NOTICE
^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor
This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange
high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body.
^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are
approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the
system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure.
^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure.
^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has
been added to the system.
^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this:
- Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap.
- Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the
lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve
stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system.
NOTE:
Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first
time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been
evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following:
(a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting.
(b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule.
(c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's
hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set.
(d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the
universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes.
(e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and
disconnect the NC recovery and charging station.
(f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for
future use.
NOTE:
^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the
A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil.
^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before
adding any dye.
(g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and
charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye.
* NOTE:
Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.*
(h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye
to enter the system.
(i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating
pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control
valve on the set.
(j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule
from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage
case.
* NOTE:
Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the
hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.*
(k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge
label.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 3083
3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule:
(a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed.
(b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port
using the quick coupler.
(c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap,
and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting.
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the
capsule.
(d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and
carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight).
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out.
NOTE:
* ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low
charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the
universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.*
^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the
dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding.
^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a
full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being
added to the vehicle's A/C system.
(a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks
will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours
of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible
during this time to keep the dye circulating.
(b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and
fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 3084
Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak.
NOTE:
Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to
inspect for leaks.
^ fittings
^ hose-to-line couplings
^ refrigerant controls
^ service ports
(d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and
glasses.
(e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from
the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle).
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 3085
Here are some simple safety items to remember when you're storing recycled R-12 refrigerant: ^
Never try to refill a standard disposable 30 lb. tank with reclaimed refrigerant. Use only DOT
approved refillable tanks provided by the recycling equipment manufacturers or suppliers.
^ Keep your tanks clearly marked: one for contaminated refrigerant, one for recycled. (most
recovery/recycling equipment manufacturers supply labels for this purpose.)
^ If you need to transfer liquid refrigerant from one tank to another, keep in mind that refrigerant
expands when it gets warm. So, never fill a tank to more than 80% capacity. The remaining 20%
allows for expansion. (A tank filled bewond 80% call he dangerous! See the temperature chart and
review the tank manufacturer's "transfer" instructions.)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 3086
Here's the second in a series of articles on how R-12's impact on the environment is affecting the
way we service A/C systems. (The first article, "Chilling Facts About R-12 Refrigerant," can be
found in the November '89 issue of S/N.)
The table (compiled by the Automobile Importers of America, Inc.) shows the CFC legislation that
has already been enacted by those states. There are also 14 other states that have proposed
similar legislation. The federal government has not committed to any specific regulations, although
they'll probably require the use of UL-listed recovery/recycling equipment only. The EPA is also
talking of requiring technicians to be recertified as proficient with the new A/C equipment.
All this legislation makes two things very clear: most states will require the use of
recovery/recycling equipment by the end of this year and, in the future, you'll probably need a
whole set of new equipment to service cars with the HFC-134a. (R-12 and HFC-134a can't be
intermixed at all, so as far as we know now, HFC-134a will require new charging stations,
recovery/recycling units, leak detectors, etc.)
Although these units will become required shop equipment, American Honda won't ship them
automatically. However, to assist you in meeting this new equipment need, our Special Tools
people are working out the details to offer UL-listed recovery/recycling units through the Tools and
Equipment Program. They're trying to put together a package that offers special pricing,
guaranteed availability, and an extended warranty. We'll send you all the info as soon as things are
finalized.
Recovery/recycling units aren't cheap. Their prices range from about $2,800 to $4,000. However,
this equipment will more than pay for itself!
Here are several ways it'll actually save you time and increase your shop's profits:
^ Time savings: Hook the unit up to the car, turn it on, and you're free to perform some other
money-making task. In minutes, recovery is complete, the unit turns off automatically (most of
them), and the car is ready for repair.
^ Refrigerant cost savings: New EPA regulations limit production of R-12. This reduction, plus the
newly enacted refrigerant tax laws, have doubled the cost of R-12 since last year. A quick poll
showed us that the cost of R-12 now averages about $3.50 a pound. A busy shop could easily
recover and recycle 100 pounds a week during A/C season. That's $350 a week saved!
^ Sell more service: Explain to your customers why it's no longer ecologically or economically
prudent to simply recharge an A/C system with a slow leak. (Plus it soon may not be legal in some
states.) If they have the leak fixed, they'll be helping the environment and saving money in the long
run.
In the coming issues we'll keep you up to date on what's happening with R-12 recovering/recycling,
including tips on how to use your new equipment.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 3087
Refrigerant: Specifications
Fig. 4 Specifications
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations
1. Check for continuity between terminals 3 and 4, Fig. 32. There should no continuity.
2. Connect a 12 volt battery across terminals 1 and 2. There should be continuity between 3 and 4.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Relay <-->
[Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC] > Component Information > Locations
1. Check for continuity between terminals 3 and 4, Fig. 32. There should no continuity.
2. Connect a 12 volt battery across terminals 1 and 2. There should be continuity between 3 and 4.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > A/C Compressor Control Unit
<--> [Control Module HVAC] > Component Information > Locations
A/C Compressor Control Unit: Locations
Dip the sensor, Fig. 32 into a pan filled with ice water, check for continuity between the terminals.
Cut off 1.5 - -0.5~C (35-33~F) Cut in 2.5 - 5~C (36-41~F) If cut off or cut in temperatures are too
low or too high, replace the thermo switch.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Vacuum Controller, HVAC > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Heat/Def & Vent/Def Solenoids
1. Using ohmmeter, check for continuity between solenoid terminals, Fig. 15. Meter should indicate
continuity between each pairing of terminals.
2. Connect diaphragm capsule and apply vacuum to solenoid as shown in Fig. 15. No vacuum
should be transmitted through solenoid
3. Connect battery positive terminal to black wire terminal on solenoid and connect battery negative
terminal to solenoid green wire terminal. Diaphragm arm should retract and hold position.
4. Disconnect jumper wire from solenoid green wire terminal. Diaphragm arm should hold in
retracted position.
5. Connect jumper from battery negative terminal to solenoid yellow wire terminal. Solenoid should
vent trapped vacuum and diaphragm arm should extend.
1. Using a suitable ohmmeter, check for continuity between terminals as shown in Fig. 16. Ensure
fuse is in good condition.
2. If meter does not indicate continuity, check fuse and replace as needed. If fuse is satisfactory,
solenoid is defective.
3. Connect diaphragm capsule and apply vacuum to solenoid as shown in Fig. 44 . Solenoid should
not transmit vacuum to diaphragm capsule.
4. Connect battery positive terminal to solenoid terminal A and negative battery terminal to solenoid
terminal B. Vacuum should be transmitted to diaphragm, and diaphragm plunger should retract and
hold.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
Seat Belt Control Module: Locations
Recall: '87-88 Owner's Manual (Supersedes 87-029, dated October 30, 1987)
PROBLEM
Honda Motor Co., Ltd. has determined that a noncompliance with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety
Standard No. 210, Seat Belt Assembly Anchorages, exists in the Owner's Manuals of certain 1987
and 1988 model year Honda automobiles. These Owner's Manuals are missing required
information concerning child restraints.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
1987
Accord
Civic Wagon
1988
Civic
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Inspect the cars as described below, then, if necessary, attach a sticker to the Owner's Manual of
affected vehicles in your inventory.
*If the vehicle is outside the affected VIN range, no further action is necessary.
*If the vehicle is within the affected range, proceed to the next step.
2. Check the date of manufacture on the certification plate attached to the driver's door jamb.
^ If the date of manufacture is September, 1987 or later, proceed to the next step.
Note: If the car has a green disk attached to the outside of the rear window glass, the Owner's
Manual has already been updated, requiring no further action.
3. Attach a sticker to the Owner's Manual according to the instructions accompanying each sticker.
PARTS INFORMATION
An initial supply of stickers containing the required child restraint information has been included in
this mailing for Owner's Manuals of cars in your inventory. Use the following information to order
more stickers through the Promotional Materials Department:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Child Restraint > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Child Restraint: > 87029 > Nov > 87 > Recall - Owner's Manual > Page 3132
Year Model Reorder No.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of affected vehicles will be notified of this recall by mail. (See page 3 for text of customer
letters.) Owners will be sent a sticker and be asked to attach the sticker to their Owner's Manual.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Note: These claims may be transmitted via Honda Net DCS Quick-Claim format.
HONDA AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC. P.O. BOX 50 - 100 W. ALONDRA BLVD.,
GARDENA, CALIF. 90247 CABLE ADDRESS-AMEHON, GARDENA, CALIF. (213) 327-8280
November 1987
This notice is sent to you in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic and Motor
Vehicle Safety Act.
Honda Motor Co., Ltd. has determined that the Owner's Manuals of certain 1987 and 1988 model
year Honda Accord, Civic and Prelude automobiles fail to conform to Federal Motor Vehicle Safety
Standard No. 210, Seat Belt Assembly Anchorages.
Our records indicate that the Owner's Manual provided with your car is missing required
information concerning child restraint systems. One or both of the following sentences need to be
added to the Owner's Manual:
According to accident statistics provided by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
(NHTSA), children are safer when properly restrained in the rear seating positions than in the front
seat.
All child restraint systems are designed to be secured by lap belts or the lap belt portion of a
lap-shoulder belt. Children could be endangered in a crash if their restraints are not properly
secured.
To facilitate making these changes, enclosed is a revised page for your Owner's Manual. Please
attach it according to the following instructions:
1. Detach the top of the enclosed sticker containing the year, model and page number of your
Owner's Manual.
2. Peel away the adhesive backing on the back of the sticker.
Your dealer has additional stickers available if required, and all the information necessary to assist
you in updating your Owner's Manual. If you need any further assistance after contacting your
dealer, you may contact the Zone Office servicing your area as shown on the map on the back of
this letter.
If you are still not satisfied that we have done our best to assist you in updating your Owner's
Manual after contacting your dealer and the Zone Office, you may contact:
Administrator
Washington, DC 20590
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Child Restraint > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Child Restraint: > 87029 > Nov > 87 > Recall - Owner's Manual > Page 3133
We regret any inconvenience this campaign may cause you; however, your continued satisfaction
with our products is our main concern.
Recall: '87-88 Owner's Manual (Supersedes 87-029, dated October 30, 1987)
PROBLEM
Honda Motor Co., Ltd. has determined that a noncompliance with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety
Standard No. 210, Seat Belt Assembly Anchorages, exists in the Owner's Manuals of certain 1987
and 1988 model year Honda automobiles. These Owner's Manuals are missing required
information concerning child restraints.
AFFECTED VEHICLES
1987
Accord
Civic Wagon
1988
Civic
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Inspect the cars as described below, then, if necessary, attach a sticker to the Owner's Manual of
affected vehicles in your inventory.
*If the vehicle is outside the affected VIN range, no further action is necessary.
*If the vehicle is within the affected range, proceed to the next step.
2. Check the date of manufacture on the certification plate attached to the driver's door jamb.
^ If the date of manufacture is September, 1987 or later, proceed to the next step.
Note: If the car has a green disk attached to the outside of the rear window glass, the Owner's
Manual has already been updated, requiring no further action.
3. Attach a sticker to the Owner's Manual according to the instructions accompanying each sticker.
PARTS INFORMATION
An initial supply of stickers containing the required child restraint information has been included in
this mailing for Owner's Manuals of cars in your inventory. Use the following information to order
more stickers through the Promotional Materials Department:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Child Restraint > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Child Restraint: > 87029 > Nov > 87 > Recall - Owner's
Manual > Page 3139
Year Model Reorder No.
1987 Accord 4-door Y0211
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
All owners of affected vehicles will be notified of this recall by mail. (See page 3 for text of customer
letters.) Owners will be sent a sticker and be asked to attach the sticker to their Owner's Manual.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
Note: These claims may be transmitted via Honda Net DCS Quick-Claim format.
HONDA AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC. P.O. BOX 50 - 100 W. ALONDRA BLVD.,
GARDENA, CALIF. 90247 CABLE ADDRESS-AMEHON, GARDENA, CALIF. (213) 327-8280
November 1987
This notice is sent to you in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic and Motor
Vehicle Safety Act.
Honda Motor Co., Ltd. has determined that the Owner's Manuals of certain 1987 and 1988 model
year Honda Accord, Civic and Prelude automobiles fail to conform to Federal Motor Vehicle Safety
Standard No. 210, Seat Belt Assembly Anchorages.
Our records indicate that the Owner's Manual provided with your car is missing required
information concerning child restraint systems. One or both of the following sentences need to be
added to the Owner's Manual:
According to accident statistics provided by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
(NHTSA), children are safer when properly restrained in the rear seating positions than in the front
seat.
All child restraint systems are designed to be secured by lap belts or the lap belt portion of a
lap-shoulder belt. Children could be endangered in a crash if their restraints are not properly
secured.
To facilitate making these changes, enclosed is a revised page for your Owner's Manual. Please
attach it according to the following instructions:
1. Detach the top of the enclosed sticker containing the year, model and page number of your
Owner's Manual.
Your dealer has additional stickers available if required, and all the information necessary to assist
you in updating your Owner's Manual. If you need any further assistance after contacting your
dealer, you may contact the Zone Office servicing your area as shown on the map on the back of
this letter.
If you are still not satisfied that we have done our best to assist you in updating your Owner's
Manual after contacting your dealer and the Zone Office, you may contact:
Administrator
Washington, DC 20590
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Child Restraint > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Child Restraint: > 87029 > Nov > 87 > Recall - Owner's
Manual > Page 3140
We regret any inconvenience this campaign may cause you; however, your continued satisfaction
with our products is our main concern.
Sincerely, AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.
Front Seat Belt Buckle Campaign (Supersedes 95-028, dated July 13, 1995)
BACKGROUND
The plastic button on Takata front seat belt buckles may break. Pieces from the broken button
could fall into the seat belt buckle, causing it to not latch or not unlatch. Some 1986-91 Accords
and Civics are equipped with NSK belts; these models are not affected.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat Belt Buckle > Page
3149
Owners of affected vehicles will be contacted by mail. The owner will be asked to take the vehicle
to a dealership for repair or updating. The text of the customer letter is included in this service
bulletin.
TOOL INFORMATION
PARTS INFORMATION
Black - P/N 06850-SH2-305ZA, H/C 4832424 Brown - P/N 06850-SH2-305ZB, H/C 4832630 Ivory -
P/N 06850-SH2-305ZC, H/C 4832648
Black - P/N 06850-SH1-305ZA, H/C 4832655 Brown - P/N 06850-SH1-305ZB, H/C 4832663 Ivory -
P/N 06850-SH1-305ZC, H/C 4832671
Black - P/N 06850-SE3-305ZA, H/C 4832689 Brown - P/N 06850-SE3-305ZB, H/C 4832697
See Parts Information Bulletin A95-0024 for information on matching guide kits to interior colors.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION [NEW]
Buckle Replacement - All 3-point active and passive (non-motorized) seat belts
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat Belt Buckle > Page
3150
Carefully inspect the front seat belt buckles for proper function and manufacturer.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat Belt Buckle > Page
3152
1. Push the seat belt latch plate into the buckle. They should latch together with a sharp click. Push
the PRESS button to release the latch plate from the buckle. It should release with a sharp click
and the latch plate should pop out of the buckle.
NSK-manufactured
^ If the front buckle assemblies are in good condition, complete and mail a Verification of
Manufacturer postcard to American Honda. Tell the customer the car is not included in this
campaign, and that the seat belts are covered by a lifetime warranty.
^ If you find a buckle that is not latching or unlatching properly, replace it with standard service
parts. File a claim under the provisions of the Lifetime Seat Belt Warranty, and mail a Verification of
Manufacturer postcard to American Honda.
Takata-manufactured
^ If either buckle fails to latch or unlatch properly, go to Seat Belt Buckle Replacement.
Inspect the buckle release buttons to see if they are cracked or broken, and replace or modify the
buckles accordingly.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat Belt Buckle > Page
3153
1. Wet a cotton swab with a five percent soap and water solution. Clean the inside edge of the
release button.
2. Using the Buckle Inspection Mirror (see TOOL INFORMATION) and a bright light, examine the
release button for chips or cracks.
^ If either front buckle assembly has a chipped or cracked release button, go to Seat Belt Buckle
Replacement, CORRECTIVE ACTION A.
^ If the front buckle assemblies are in good condition, go to Seat Belt Buckle Guide Installation,
CORRECTIVE ACTION B.
Corrective Action
1. Remove both front seat belt buckle assemblies. Refer to section 20 of the appropriate service
manual.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat Belt Buckle > Page
3154
2. Install the new buckle assemblies. Refer to Parts Information Bulletin A95-0014 for part numbers
and applications.
3. Center-punch a completion mark below the first character of the engine compartment VIN.
NOTE:
The seat belt buckle repair is complete. Do not install the seat belt buckle guides.
1. Select the proper buckle guide kit. Place the anchor plate inside the buckle guide. Make sure the
hooked end fits inside the buckle guide, and that the holes in the anchor plate and the guide line
up.
2. While holding the anchor plate in position with your finger, slide the buckle guide onto the buckle.
3. Use a screwdriver with a magnetic tip to install a set screw in the buckle guide on the same side
that you installed the anchor plate. As you tighten the set screw, push down on the buckle guide to
make sure it is fully on the buckle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat Belt Buckle > Page
3155
NOTE:
5. Center-punch a completion mark below the first character of the engine compartment VIN.
1986-87 4-door C
1988-89 4-door A
1990-91 4-door B
1986 3-door C
1988-89 3-door A
1988-89 2-door A
1990-91 2-door B
1991 Wagon A
1986-87 4-door C
1988-89 4-door A
1990-91 4-door B
1986-87 3-door C
1988-91 3-door A
1986-87 Wagon C
1988-89 Wagon A
1990-91 Wagon B
1986-87 CRX C
1989-91 CRX A
Year Kit
1986-87 C
1988-91 A
Owner Letter
This notice is sent to you in accordance with the defect provisions of the National Traffic and Motor
Vehicle Safety Act.
Honda has determined that front seat belt buckle release buttons have broken, and others may
break in the future, in some 1986-91 Honda cars equipped with seat belts made by the Takata
Corporation. These seat belt buckle release buttons are made of red plastic, and are marked
PRESS. If a button breaks, pieces may fall into the buckle assembly. If this occurs, the buckle may
not operate properly, thereby creating a safety risk.
To prevent this problem from occurring, Honda will replace all broken front seat belt buckles, free of
charge. In addition, Honda will modify all unbroken buckles manufactured by Takata to prevent
future button breakage.
If your seat belt buckle is broken or does not operate properly, you should have it replaced as soon
as possible. Seat belts are the most important part of your car's safety equipment. Honda urges
you to wear your seat belt whenever you drive, and to make sure that your passengers also wear
theirs. If you do not wear your seat belt, your chances of being killed or seriously injured during a
collision are much higher than if you are wearing a seat belt. That is why seat belt use is required
by law in almost every state.
Call any authorized Honda dealer and make an appointment to have your car repaired. If either
release button shows any sign of breaking or cracking, or if either buckle fails to operate properly,
the dealer will replace the buckle, free of charge.
Even if both front seat belt release buttons appear to be in good condition, and both buckles
operate properly, your seat belt buckles will need to be modified to prevent future button breakage.
Modification of the seat belt buckles will be free of charge, and parts are now available.
Replacement or modification of the seat belt buckles will take less than half an hour; however, the
dealer may need to keep your car for a longer period because of their workload. Please call for an
appointment.
If your Honda dealer is unable to, or fails to, make the necessary repairs or replacements, free of
charge, please contact:
Honda Campaign Information Service Office American Honda Motor Co., Inc. 1919 Torrance
Boulevard Torrance, CA 90501-2746 The toll-free number is (800) 999-1009.
Administrator National Highway Traffic Safety Administration 400 Seventh Street, S.W.
Washington, D.C. 20590
Or call the toll-free Auto Safety Hotline at (800) 424-9393 (Washington D.C. area residents may
call [202] 366-0123).
Warranty Reminder
For safety, we urge you to regularly check the condition of your seat belts. If you notice that a
release button is broken or if you experience any problems with seat belt operation, contact your
dealer immediately. Remember, Honda has a lifetime seat belt warranty that applies to every
Honda automobile. It covers any seat belt component that fails to function properly during normal
use (see your warranty booklet for details).
Under Federal law, the lessor of a vehicle who receives this letter must provide a copy of it to the
vehicle lessee(s). The lessor must also keep a record of the lessee(s) to whom this letter is sent,
the date sent, and the applicable Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
(For the purposes of this notice, a lessor means a person or entity that in the last twelve months
prior to the date of this notification has been the owner, as referenced on the vehicle's title, of any
five or more leased vehicles. A leased vehicle is a vehicle leased to another person for a term of at
least four
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat Belt Buckle > Page
3157
months.)
Thank you for your cooperation. We are sorry for any inconvenience you might experience.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Seat Belt Buckle: > NHTSA95V103001 > May > 95 > Recall 95V103001: Seat Belt
Buckle Failure
Seat Belt Buckle: Recalls Recall 95V103001: Seat Belt Buckle Failure
THE FRONT SAFETY BELT BUCKLE RELEASE BUTTONS CAN BREAK. THESE RED PLASTIC
RELEASE BUTTONS ARE MARKED "PRESS." IF A BUTTON BREAKS, PIECES CAN FALL
INTO THE BUCKLE ASSEMBLY CAUSING THE BUCKLE TO OPERATE IMPROPERLY. THE
SAFETY BELTS WOULD NOT PROVIDE ADEQUATE PROTECTION TO AN OCCUPANT IN A
VEHICLE CRASH. OWNERS SHOULD PROMPTLY CHECK THE CONDITION AND OPERATION
OF BOTH FRONT SAFETY BELT BUCKLES. CAREFULLY INSPECT THE RED RELEASE
BUTTON FOR ANY BREAKS OR CRACKS. CHECK THAT BOTH BUCKLES ARE OPERATING
PROPERLY BY INSERTING EACH LATCH PLATE INTO ITS BUCKLE, TUG ON THE BELT TO
MAKE SURE THE LATCH IS SECURELY LOCKED, THEN PRESS THE RELEASE BUTTON.
THE LATCH PLATE SHOULD POP OUT OF THE BUCKLE WHEN THE BUTTON IS PRESSED.
IF EITHER RELEASE BUTTON SHOWS ANY SIGN OF BREAKAGE OR CRACKING, OR IF
EITHER BUCKLE FAILS TO OPERATE PROPERLY, PROMPTLY CONTACT YOUR
AUTHORIZED HONDA/ACURA DEALER TO SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT TO HAVE THE
BUCKLE REPLACED OR REPAIRED, FREE OF CHARGE. THE MANUFACTURER IS
DEVELOPING A REMEDY DESIGNED TO PREVENT THE FAILURE OF THE BUTTONS THAT
ARE NOT CURRENTLY BROKEN.
1986 ACURA INTEGRA 1986 ACURA LEGEND 1986 HONDA CIVIC 1986 HONDA PRELUDE
1987 ACURA INTEGRA 1987 ACURA LEGEND 1987 HONDA CIVIC 1987 HONDA PRELUDE
1988 ACURA INTEGRA 1988 ACURA LEGEND 1988 HONDA ACCORD 1988 HONDA CIVIC
1988 HONDA PRELUDE 1989 ACURA INTEGRA 1989 ACURA LEGEND 1989 HONDA ACCORD
1989 HONDA CIVIC 1989 HONDA PRELUDE 1990 ACURA INTEGRA 1990 ACURA LEGEND
1990 HONDA ACCORD 1990 HONDA CIVIC 1990 HONDA PRELUDE 1991 ACURA INTEGRA
1991 ACURA NSX 1991 HONDA ACCORD 1991 HONDA CIVIC 1991 HONDA PRELUDE
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat
Belt Buckle
Front Seat Belt Buckle Campaign (Supersedes 95-028, dated July 13, 1995)
BACKGROUND
The plastic button on Takata front seat belt buckles may break. Pieces from the broken button
could fall into the seat belt buckle, causing it to not latch or not unlatch. Some 1986-91 Accords
and Civics are equipped with NSK belts; these models are not affected.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat
Belt Buckle > Page 3167
Owners of affected vehicles will be contacted by mail. The owner will be asked to take the vehicle
to a dealership for repair or updating. The text of the customer letter is included in this service
bulletin.
TOOL INFORMATION
PARTS INFORMATION
Black - P/N 06850-SH2-305ZA, H/C 4832424 Brown - P/N 06850-SH2-305ZB, H/C 4832630 Ivory -
P/N 06850-SH2-305ZC, H/C 4832648
Black - P/N 06850-SH1-305ZA, H/C 4832655 Brown - P/N 06850-SH1-305ZB, H/C 4832663 Ivory -
P/N 06850-SH1-305ZC, H/C 4832671
Black - P/N 06850-SE3-305ZA, H/C 4832689 Brown - P/N 06850-SE3-305ZB, H/C 4832697
See Parts Information Bulletin A95-0024 for information on matching guide kits to interior colors.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION [NEW]
Buckle Replacement - All 3-point active and passive (non-motorized) seat belts
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat
Belt Buckle > Page 3168
Carefully inspect the front seat belt buckles for proper function and manufacturer.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat
Belt Buckle > Page 3170
1. Push the seat belt latch plate into the buckle. They should latch together with a sharp click. Push
the PRESS button to release the latch plate from the buckle. It should release with a sharp click
and the latch plate should pop out of the buckle.
NSK-manufactured
^ If the front buckle assemblies are in good condition, complete and mail a Verification of
Manufacturer postcard to American Honda. Tell the customer the car is not included in this
campaign, and that the seat belts are covered by a lifetime warranty.
^ If you find a buckle that is not latching or unlatching properly, replace it with standard service
parts. File a claim under the provisions of the Lifetime Seat Belt Warranty, and mail a Verification of
Manufacturer postcard to American Honda.
Takata-manufactured
^ If either buckle fails to latch or unlatch properly, go to Seat Belt Buckle Replacement.
Inspect the buckle release buttons to see if they are cracked or broken, and replace or modify the
buckles accordingly.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat
Belt Buckle > Page 3171
1. Wet a cotton swab with a five percent soap and water solution. Clean the inside edge of the
release button.
2. Using the Buckle Inspection Mirror (see TOOL INFORMATION) and a bright light, examine the
release button for chips or cracks.
^ If either front buckle assembly has a chipped or cracked release button, go to Seat Belt Buckle
Replacement, CORRECTIVE ACTION A.
^ If the front buckle assemblies are in good condition, go to Seat Belt Buckle Guide Installation,
CORRECTIVE ACTION B.
Corrective Action
1. Remove both front seat belt buckle assemblies. Refer to section 20 of the appropriate service
manual.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat
Belt Buckle > Page 3172
2. Install the new buckle assemblies. Refer to Parts Information Bulletin A95-0014 for part numbers
and applications.
3. Center-punch a completion mark below the first character of the engine compartment VIN.
NOTE:
The seat belt buckle repair is complete. Do not install the seat belt buckle guides.
1. Select the proper buckle guide kit. Place the anchor plate inside the buckle guide. Make sure the
hooked end fits inside the buckle guide, and that the holes in the anchor plate and the guide line
up.
2. While holding the anchor plate in position with your finger, slide the buckle guide onto the buckle.
3. Use a screwdriver with a magnetic tip to install a set screw in the buckle guide on the same side
that you installed the anchor plate. As you tighten the set screw, push down on the buckle guide to
make sure it is fully on the buckle.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat
Belt Buckle > Page 3173
NOTE:
5. Center-punch a completion mark below the first character of the engine compartment VIN.
1986-87 4-door C
1988-89 4-door A
1990-91 4-door B
1986 3-door C
1988-89 3-door A
1988-89 2-door A
1990-91 2-door B
1991 Wagon A
1986-87 4-door C
1988-89 4-door A
1990-91 4-door B
1986-87 3-door C
1988-91 3-door A
1986-87 Wagon C
1988-89 Wagon A
1990-91 Wagon B
1986-87 CRX C
1989-91 CRX A
Year Kit
1986-87 C
1988-91 A
Owner Letter
This notice is sent to you in accordance with the defect provisions of the National Traffic and Motor
Vehicle Safety Act.
Honda has determined that front seat belt buckle release buttons have broken, and others may
break in the future, in some 1986-91 Honda cars equipped with seat belts made by the Takata
Corporation. These seat belt buckle release buttons are made of red plastic, and are marked
PRESS. If a button breaks, pieces may fall into the buckle assembly. If this occurs, the buckle may
not operate properly, thereby creating a safety risk.
To prevent this problem from occurring, Honda will replace all broken front seat belt buckles, free of
charge. In addition, Honda will modify all unbroken buckles manufactured by Takata to prevent
future button breakage.
If your seat belt buckle is broken or does not operate properly, you should have it replaced as soon
as possible. Seat belts are the most important part of your car's safety equipment. Honda urges
you to wear your seat belt whenever you drive, and to make sure that your passengers also wear
theirs. If you do not wear your seat belt, your chances of being killed or seriously injured during a
collision are much higher than if you are wearing a seat belt. That is why seat belt use is required
by law in almost every state.
Call any authorized Honda dealer and make an appointment to have your car repaired. If either
release button shows any sign of breaking or cracking, or if either buckle fails to operate properly,
the dealer will replace the buckle, free of charge.
Even if both front seat belt release buttons appear to be in good condition, and both buckles
operate properly, your seat belt buckles will need to be modified to prevent future button breakage.
Modification of the seat belt buckles will be free of charge, and parts are now available.
Replacement or modification of the seat belt buckles will take less than half an hour; however, the
dealer may need to keep your car for a longer period because of their workload. Please call for an
appointment.
If your Honda dealer is unable to, or fails to, make the necessary repairs or replacements, free of
charge, please contact:
Honda Campaign Information Service Office American Honda Motor Co., Inc. 1919 Torrance
Boulevard Torrance, CA 90501-2746 The toll-free number is (800) 999-1009.
Administrator National Highway Traffic Safety Administration 400 Seventh Street, S.W.
Washington, D.C. 20590
Or call the toll-free Auto Safety Hotline at (800) 424-9393 (Washington D.C. area residents may
call [202] 366-0123).
Warranty Reminder
For safety, we urge you to regularly check the condition of your seat belts. If you notice that a
release button is broken or if you experience any problems with seat belt operation, contact your
dealer immediately. Remember, Honda has a lifetime seat belt warranty that applies to every
Honda automobile. It covers any seat belt component that fails to function properly during normal
use (see your warranty booklet for details).
Under Federal law, the lessor of a vehicle who receives this letter must provide a copy of it to the
vehicle lessee(s). The lessor must also keep a record of the lessee(s) to whom this letter is sent,
the date sent, and the applicable Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
(For the purposes of this notice, a lessor means a person or entity that in the last twelve months
prior to the date of this notification has been the owner, as referenced on the vehicle's title, of any
five or more leased vehicles. A leased vehicle is a vehicle leased to another person for a term of at
least four
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt Buckle: > 95028 > Oct > 95 > Recall - Front Seat
Belt Buckle > Page 3175
months.)
Thank you for your cooperation. We are sorry for any inconvenience you might experience.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Seat Belt Buckle: > NHTSA95V103001 > May > 95 > Recall
95V103001: Seat Belt Buckle Failure
Seat Belt Buckle: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 95V103001: Seat Belt Buckle Failure
THE FRONT SAFETY BELT BUCKLE RELEASE BUTTONS CAN BREAK. THESE RED PLASTIC
RELEASE BUTTONS ARE MARKED "PRESS." IF A BUTTON BREAKS, PIECES CAN FALL
INTO THE BUCKLE ASSEMBLY CAUSING THE BUCKLE TO OPERATE IMPROPERLY. THE
SAFETY BELTS WOULD NOT PROVIDE ADEQUATE PROTECTION TO AN OCCUPANT IN A
VEHICLE CRASH. OWNERS SHOULD PROMPTLY CHECK THE CONDITION AND OPERATION
OF BOTH FRONT SAFETY BELT BUCKLES. CAREFULLY INSPECT THE RED RELEASE
BUTTON FOR ANY BREAKS OR CRACKS. CHECK THAT BOTH BUCKLES ARE OPERATING
PROPERLY BY INSERTING EACH LATCH PLATE INTO ITS BUCKLE, TUG ON THE BELT TO
MAKE SURE THE LATCH IS SECURELY LOCKED, THEN PRESS THE RELEASE BUTTON.
THE LATCH PLATE SHOULD POP OUT OF THE BUCKLE WHEN THE BUTTON IS PRESSED.
IF EITHER RELEASE BUTTON SHOWS ANY SIGN OF BREAKAGE OR CRACKING, OR IF
EITHER BUCKLE FAILS TO OPERATE PROPERLY, PROMPTLY CONTACT YOUR
AUTHORIZED HONDA/ACURA DEALER TO SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT TO HAVE THE
BUCKLE REPLACED OR REPAIRED, FREE OF CHARGE. THE MANUFACTURER IS
DEVELOPING A REMEDY DESIGNED TO PREVENT THE FAILURE OF THE BUTTONS THAT
ARE NOT CURRENTLY BROKEN.
1986 ACURA INTEGRA 1986 ACURA LEGEND 1986 HONDA CIVIC 1986 HONDA PRELUDE
1987 ACURA INTEGRA 1987 ACURA LEGEND 1987 HONDA CIVIC 1987 HONDA PRELUDE
1988 ACURA INTEGRA 1988 ACURA LEGEND 1988 HONDA ACCORD 1988 HONDA CIVIC
1988 HONDA PRELUDE 1989 ACURA INTEGRA 1989 ACURA LEGEND 1989 HONDA ACCORD
1989 HONDA CIVIC 1989 HONDA PRELUDE 1990 ACURA INTEGRA 1990 ACURA LEGEND
1990 HONDA ACCORD 1990 HONDA CIVIC 1990 HONDA PRELUDE 1991 ACURA INTEGRA
1991 ACURA NSX 1991 HONDA ACCORD 1991 HONDA CIVIC 1991 HONDA PRELUDE
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Control Module > Component Information
> Locations
Seat Belt Control Module: Locations
Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Technical Service Bulletins Seat Belt Reminder Cover - Removal
Procedure
Removing the seat belt beeper/reminder tight cover from an '88-90 Prelude without breaking it is
tricky, but it can be done.
Slowly, gently pull the ftont of the cover away from the windshield, then down, while holding the
rear edge up against the light assembly. (If the rear edge comes down when you pull the front edge
down, the rear clips will break.) Once the front clips are released, slide the cover toward the
windshield to release the rear clips.
NOTE: If you're still unsuccessful (don't feet alone), the cover can be ordered separately.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Radio - Noise/Interference Service Tip
Antenna: Technical Service Bulletins Radio - Noise/Interference Service Tip
When diagnosing a radio noise/interference problem, first try playing a tape. If the noise isn't
present when a tape is played, chances are the problem is the antenna. To confirm the problem,
temporarily connect a known-good manual antenna to the radio. (Don't forget to ground the metal
tab at the antenna mounting screw hole with a jumper wire.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information
Technical Service Bulletin # 98-011 Date: 040220
Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information
98-011
This service bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda
vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering,
and transmitter batteries. A remote transmitter quick reference guide is shown below.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3199
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3200
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3201
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3202
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3203
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3204
Remote Transmitter Quick Reference Guide
90-93 Accord, 92-93 Civic & Prelude, 93 Del SOL
NOTE:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3205
This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When
replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new
transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit.
1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one.
2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip.
3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to
lock the chip in place.
6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat.
7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure
as in steps 2 and 3.)
If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the
control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter and install it in the new one.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip
set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is
5319. This ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Order the additional transmitter from
American Honda.
If you have questions about how to order a four ROM chip set, call Alpine's parts department at
(800) 421-2284, extension 8885.
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer
work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes, and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the
button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering
column cover flashes when the system is in programming mode.
3. Press the top button on the transmitter. Check that the parking lights flash to confirm that the
transmitter's code was accepted.
4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. Check that the parking lights flash
after each transmitter code is accepted.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM and CD/TAPE
buttons) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or
programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that you're in the
programming mode.
3. Within 5 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the transmitter. Check that the power
door locks cycle to confirm that the code was accepted.
4. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each of the remaining transmitters.
5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit
programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
1999-04 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
*1999-03 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2002-04 Civic Si with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2003-04 Civic Hybrid with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2004 Civic (except LX & EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2004 Civic LX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3208
2004 Element EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. To order a transmitter, you need
the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code
number.
The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control
unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number
stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car.
Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The
new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and
glove compartment lock.
To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the iN system. The
transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA only by authorized Honda dealers. Send
a completed order form (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer Parts
Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.) to this address:
On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number
from one of the original transmitters.
If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at (500)
552-4690, or fax them at (310) 595-1029 (weekdays from 5:30A.M. thru 4:00 P.M. Pacific time).
You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The
transmitter will be sent to your dealership COD. Additional shipping and handling charges will be
applied to the order.
NOTE:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
2. Push the driver's power door lock switch to the unlock position and hold it. (Continue to hold the
switch during this procedure.)
3. Insert the key into the ignition switch, then remove it. Repeat this four more times (five times
total) within 10 seconds. (You must complete steps 3 and 4 within 10 seconds or the system will
exit the programming mode.)
4. Insert the key into the ignition switch. After you insert the key, make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in the programming mode.
5. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. All the power door locks (except the
driver's door) should cycle to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code.
6. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of
programming the first transmitter.
7. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Transmitter Identification
The transmitter for the 1995-99 Accord and the 2000-02 Accord look identical, but they are not
interchangeable. The 1995-99 transmitter works the doors of a 2000-02 Accord, but it does not
open the trunk. If you are not sure which transmitter you have, press and hold the trunk release
button while looking at the LED. The LED on the 1995-99 transmitter comes on in about 1.1
seconds. The LED on the 2000-02 transmitter comes on in about 0.5 second.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete each step within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode. Program the transmitters within 10 seconds.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
99-04 Odyssey EX
1999-00 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
*Transmitter Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3216
The 1999-00 transmitter is not interchangeable with the 2001-04 transmitter. To tell them apart,
look at the FCC ID on the back.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting
the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Ordering a Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitters can be
accepted.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3220
Programming the Transmitter
1. Locate the security system control unit under the driver's seat.
2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once
you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a
square, yellow button; this is the programming button.
4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps
followed by a five-chirp burst. This confirms that the system is in programming mode. The siren
then emits prompting chirps at 3-second intervals.
6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the siren emits a
confirmation chirp to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If you
wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter, or wait
more than 30 seconds between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps and the
system exits the programming mode.
7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK"
button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.)
8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each
transmitter uses one battery.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3221
96-97 Passport With Dealer-Installed Security System
1996-97 Passport with dealer-installed security system
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to two transmitters. If you program a
third transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter two times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only two transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Move the driver's seat forward. Locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor
underneath the seat.
3. Use a pen or pencil to press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control
unit. When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming
button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)
4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps once, and the front sidemarker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was
accepted by the control unit.
6. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit until the LED on the
instrument panel begins to flash, then release the button. (Steps 6 and 7 must be done within 5
seconds of each other.)
7. Press and release the bottom button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps twice, and the front sidemarker lights flash twice to confirm that the transmitter's code was
accepted by the control unit.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Test the transmitter you just programmed. If it doesn't work
repeat steps 2 thru 7.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
^ Procedure One cancels all learned transmitter codes and adds one new transmitter. None of the
previously programmed transmitters will work. Use this programming procedure only if all
transmitters were lost or stolen, or if a new control unit has been installed.
^ Procedure Two adds additional transmitters without cancelling any of the previously learned
codes. The system will accept up to four transmitters.
Procedure One (cancels all codes, adds one new transmitter)
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This
step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the system will not enter the programming mode.)
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position five times. Close and
open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle
once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that
the door locks cycle once.
6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This
step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3223
system will not enter the programming mode.)
3. Within 10 seconds, close and open the door two times.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. Close
and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that
the door locks cycle once.
6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
NOTE:
On '00-02 Passports, the audible chirp sounds only when you push the LOCK button on the
transmitter a second time.
1. Open the driver's door, then insert the key in the driver's door lock.
2. Turn the key to the "LOCK" position, then to the "UNLOCK" position. Repeat this two more
times. (Complete this procedure within 10 seconds.)
4. Within 10 seconds, turn the key to the "LOCK" position, and then to the "UNLOCK" position,
three times. Close and open the door once. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm
that the chirp has been turned on/off.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Model ALL
This Service Bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda
vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering*,
and transmitter batteries. A transmitter quick reference guide is included.
Use this index to find the information for the vehicle you are working on.
Civic
1992-93 2
1994-95 5
1996-97 8
del Sol
1993 2
1994-95 5
1996-97 7
Accord
1991-93 EX Wagon 3
1991-93 LX Wagon 4
1994-97 EX Wagon 6
Prelude
1988-91 1
1995-97 EX 6
Passport
PARTS INFORMATION
Transmitter ordering information and battery part numbers are in each transmitter section.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3225
Procedure 1
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3226
Programming the Transmitter
This transmitter is not programmable.
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Alpine of America by authorized Honda Dealers only.
Send a completed order form (found in Parts Information Bulletin A91 -0031) along with a dealer
check for $59.00 (payable to Alpine of America), to this address:
Procedure 2
NOTE:
This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When
replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new
transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3227
1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one.
2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip.
3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to
lock the chip into place.
6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat.
7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure
as in steps 2 and 3.)
If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the
control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter, and install it in the new one.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip
set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is
8319. For each set ordered, send a dealer check for $24.00 (payable to Alpine of America), to this
address:
Alpine Electronics of America 19145 Gramercy Place Torrance, CA 90501 Attention: Al Sula
(Parts)
Alpine's ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Additional transmitters can be ordered
from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures.
If you have questions on how to order the four ROM chip set, call Alpine's Parts Department at
(800) 421-2284, extension 8885.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3228
Batteries for the Transmitter
The battery number is CR2025. Each transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 3
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. To order a transmitter, you need
the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code
number.
The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control
unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number
stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car.
Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The
new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and
glove compartment lock.
To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the HONDANET 2000
system. The transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Procedure 4
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA by authorized Honda Dealers only. Send
a completed order form,* (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer
Parts Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.), to this
address:
If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at
(800)852-4690, or Fax them at (310) 898-1029 (weekdays, from 8:30 A.M. thru 4:00 PM., PST).
You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The
transmitter will be sent to your Dealership C.O.D. Additional shipping and handling charges will be
applied to the order.
*On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number
from one of the original transmitters.
Procedure 5
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer
work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the
button during the procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering
wheel cover flashes when the system is in the programming mode.
3. Press the top button on the transmitter. The parking lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's
code was accepted.
4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. The parking lights flash after each
transmitter code is accepted.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTE:
Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
2. Press and hold the driver's door master power door lock switch up in the unlock position.
(Continue to hold the switch during this procedure.)
3. Insert the key in the ignition switch and remove it. Repeat this four more times within 10
seconds, then leave the key in the switch. Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that the
system is in the programming mode. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the
system will exit the programming mode.)
4. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that all power door locks
(except the driver's) cycle to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the system.
5. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of
programming the first transmitter. (You can program two transmitters per vehicle.)
6. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Procedure 7
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
^ To keep the system from exiting the programming mode, complete each step within 5 seconds of
the previous step, and program the transmitters within 10 seconds of each other.
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times with the transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the same transmitter. Check that the power door
locks cycle to confirm that you're in the programming mode.
7. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on each transmitter. (You can program up to four
transmitters per vehicle) Check that the power door locks cycle after you push each transmitter
button, confirming that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
^ To keep the system from exiting the programming mode, complete each step within 5 seconds of
the previous step, and program the transmitters within 10 seconds of each other.
3. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that the power door locks cycle
to confirm that the code was accepted.
4. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on all other transmitters. (You can program up to four
transmitters per vehicle.)
5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the
programming mode.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Procedure 9
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
1. Locate the security system control unit mounted under the driver's seat.
2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once
you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a
square, yellow button; this is the programming button.
4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps
followed by a five-chirp burst to confirm that you're in the programming mode. The siren then emits
prompting chirps at three-second intervals.
6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that the siren emits a
confirmation chirp to let you know that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If
you wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter or
between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps, and the system exits the
programming mode.
7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK"
button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.)
8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch on, then turn it off.
9. Push all the function buttons on each transmitter to make sure they work correctly.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each
transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 10
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Keyless Entry >
Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter
Information > Page 3234
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times,
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Move the driver's seat forward, and locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor,
underneath the seat.
3. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit with a pen or pencil.
When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming
button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)
4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Check that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps once, and the front marker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by
the control unit.
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
Customer complaint of unsatisfactory AM radio station reception, or a popping noise from the
speakers when operating electrical equipment such as the turn signals or brake lights.
NOTE: Refer to the Honda PROformance tape "Radio Diagnosis" for troubleshooting information.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Poor ground connection between the antenna collar and car body.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Improve the ground connection and tighten the antenna assembly mounting nuts in the proper
sequence.
1. Use the appropriate special tool to remove the nut from the antenna base.
2. Remove the spacer and bushing from the antenna base. Remove the antenna mast. Refer to
section 23 of the appropriate service manual for the proper procedure.
3. Inspect the antenna mast and inside of the mast housing for corrosion. If no corrosion is found,
clean the mast and housing with Honda Brake Cleaner (P/N PC-HBC265) or equivalent. If either
the mast or inside of the housing is corroded, replace the complete antenna assembly.
5. Remove the antenna motor mounting nuts and remove the antenna assembly from the trunk.
Accord Wagon shown. For other models, refer to section 23 of the appropriate service manual.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Radio/Stereo: > 92036 > Oct > 92 > Radio -
Poor Reception or Interference On AM Band > Page 3245
6. Using sandpaper or a drill motor with wire brush attachment, remove the paint from the
underside of the fender around the edge of the antenna hole.
7. Clean and lubricate the threads on the antenna base with Honda Multipurpose Lube (P/N
08732-0003) or equivalent.
8. Reinstall the antenna assembly in the trunk. Install the spacer, bushing and nut. Using the
special tool, torque the nut to 2.3 N-m (0.23 kg-m, 20 lb.in.).
NOTE: For proper operation, the antenna motor mounting nuts must be loose when torquing the
special nut.
9. Tighten the antenna motor mounting nuts. Test the antenna operation, and check radio reception
on several AM stations.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
ALL 1988
89-009
RADIOS AFFECTED
Cassette
PROCEDURE
1. If the radio's frequency display no longer illuminates, check to see if the unit is on the RADIOS
AFFECTED list.
2. If the radio is still under warranty, replace it with a new unit, per normal warranty guidelines.
3. If the radio is out-of-warranty, remove it from the customer's car. Ship it, along with a completed
Out-Of-Warranty Radio Repair form (Y0182), to:
Matsushita Service Co. 13535 Marquardt Ave. Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 (213) 802-0245
NOTE: Write the number of this Service Bulletin across the top of the Out-of-Warranty Repair form
so Matsushita will be aware of the special handling required.
4. Matsushita will repair the unit and ship it back to you. Install the repaired unit in the customer's
car.
In warranty: Refer to the current Flat Rate Manual for all warranty claim information.
Out-of-Warranty: This repair, like any repair performed after warranty expiration, may be eligible for
goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get
the DSM's decision, before starting work. Use the following claim information if DSM approval is
received.
Freight: Operation No. - 000003 (includes 0.2 hour flat rate time for administration) Sublet code -
F1
Flat rate time: 0.4 hour (Accord and Civic) 0.6 hour (Prelude)
A: Add 0.2 hour for Accord with console
Failed P/N: Enter the P/N of the unit sent for repair
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace defective unit with new one listed under Parts Information. See page 23-155 of the '88
Service Manual for removal procedure.
NOTE: The new units will have a green dot on the side of them or have a serial number ending with
the letter "B".
PARTS INFORMATION
Radio/Stereo: All Technical Service Bulletins Radio - Poor Reception or Interference On AM Band
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
Customer complaint of unsatisfactory AM radio station reception, or a popping noise from the
speakers when operating electrical equipment such as the turn signals or brake lights.
NOTE: Refer to the Honda PROformance tape "Radio Diagnosis" for troubleshooting information.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Poor ground connection between the antenna collar and car body.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Improve the ground connection and tighten the antenna assembly mounting nuts in the proper
sequence.
1. Use the appropriate special tool to remove the nut from the antenna base.
2. Remove the spacer and bushing from the antenna base. Remove the antenna mast. Refer to
section 23 of the appropriate service manual for the proper procedure.
3. Inspect the antenna mast and inside of the mast housing for corrosion. If no corrosion is found,
clean the mast and housing with Honda Brake Cleaner (P/N PC-HBC265) or equivalent. If either
the mast or inside of the housing is corroded, replace the complete antenna assembly.
5. Remove the antenna motor mounting nuts and remove the antenna assembly from the trunk.
Accord Wagon shown. For other models, refer to section 23 of the appropriate service manual.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Radio/Stereo: > 92036 > Oct > 92
> Radio - Poor Reception or Interference On AM Band > Page 3259
6. Using sandpaper or a drill motor with wire brush attachment, remove the paint from the
underside of the fender around the edge of the antenna hole.
7. Clean and lubricate the threads on the antenna base with Honda Multipurpose Lube (P/N
08732-0003) or equivalent.
8. Reinstall the antenna assembly in the trunk. Install the spacer, bushing and nut. Using the
special tool, torque the nut to 2.3 N-m (0.23 kg-m, 20 lb.in.).
NOTE: For proper operation, the antenna motor mounting nuts must be loose when torquing the
special nut.
9. Tighten the antenna motor mounting nuts. Test the antenna operation, and check radio reception
on several AM stations.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
ALL 1988
89-009
RADIOS AFFECTED
Cassette
PROCEDURE
1. If the radio's frequency display no longer illuminates, check to see if the unit is on the RADIOS
AFFECTED list.
2. If the radio is still under warranty, replace it with a new unit, per normal warranty guidelines.
3. If the radio is out-of-warranty, remove it from the customer's car. Ship it, along with a completed
Out-Of-Warranty Radio Repair form (Y0182), to:
Matsushita Service Co. 13535 Marquardt Ave. Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670 (213) 802-0245
NOTE: Write the number of this Service Bulletin across the top of the Out-of-Warranty Repair form
so Matsushita will be aware of the special handling required.
4. Matsushita will repair the unit and ship it back to you. Install the repaired unit in the customer's
car.
In warranty: Refer to the current Flat Rate Manual for all warranty claim information.
Out-of-Warranty: This repair, like any repair performed after warranty expiration, may be eligible for
goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get
the DSM's decision, before starting work. Use the following claim information if DSM approval is
received.
Freight: Operation No. - 000003 (includes 0.2 hour flat rate time for administration) Sublet code -
F1
Flat rate time: 0.4 hour (Accord and Civic) 0.6 hour (Prelude)
A: Add 0.2 hour for Accord with console
Failed P/N: Enter the P/N of the unit sent for repair
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace defective unit with new one listed under Parts Information. See page 23-155 of the '88
Service Manual for removal procedure.
NOTE: The new units will have a green dot on the side of them or have a serial number ending with
the letter "B".
PARTS INFORMATION
Circuit Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3270
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3271
Ground Distribution Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3272
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3274
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3275
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3276
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3279
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3280
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3281
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3282
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3283
Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3284
Troubleshooting Precautions
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3285
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3286
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3287
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3288
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3289
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3290
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3292
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3293
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3294
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3296
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Speaker: Technical Service Bulletins Doors - Water Leaks Onto the Speaker Housing and Grille
Model Applicable To
'88-90 ALL
BODY Issue Date AUG 10, 1990 Door Speaker Grille Gets Wet PROBLEM
Water leaks down the front window channel and onto the speaker housing and grille.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Seal the mirror with 3M black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (3M part number 08011), and cover the
speaker housing with plastic.
1. Remove the door panel and mirror. Refer to Section 20 of the Service Manual.
2. Apply a coat of adhesive to the mirror and the mirror gasket, as shown. Reinstall the mirror.
NOTE: Make sure the mirror gasket is not pinched during reinstallation.
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Doors - Water Leaks Onto the Speaker Housing and Grille > Page
3306
3. Remove the glass run channel from around the mirror area.
4. Apply the adhesive to the door where the end of the front window channel and the mirror gasket
meet.
5. Remove the door speaker and housing. Inspect the speaker. If it's damaged, replace it.
6. Cut a 10" x 12" section from a piece of plastic (such as a trash bag), to cover the back of the
speaker housing. Make a small hole in the plastic for the speaker wires.
7. Place the plastic on the back of the speaker housing and mount the speaker housing to the door
panel.
8. Neatly trim the excess plastic from around the edge of the speaker housing so it will not interfere
with the rain protector. Reinstall the speaker.
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Doors: Technical Service Bulletins Doors - Water Leaks Onto the Speaker Housing and Grille
Model Applicable To
'88-90 ALL
BODY Issue Date AUG 10, 1990 Door Speaker Grille Gets Wet PROBLEM
Water leaks down the front window channel and onto the speaker housing and grille.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Seal the mirror with 3M black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (3M part number 08011), and cover the
speaker housing with plastic.
1. Remove the door panel and mirror. Refer to Section 20 of the Service Manual.
2. Apply a coat of adhesive to the mirror and the mirror gasket, as shown. Reinstall the mirror.
NOTE: Make sure the mirror gasket is not pinched during reinstallation.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Doors - Water Leaks Onto the Speaker Housing and Grille > Page 3319
3. Remove the glass run channel from around the mirror area.
4. Apply the adhesive to the door where the end of the front window channel and the mirror gasket
meet.
5. Remove the door speaker and housing. Inspect the speaker. If it's damaged, replace it.
6. Cut a 10" x 12" section from a piece of plastic (such as a trash bag), to cover the back of the
speaker housing. Make a small hole in the plastic for the speaker wires.
7. Place the plastic on the back of the speaker housing and mount the speaker housing to the door
panel.
8. Neatly trim the excess plastic from around the edge of the speaker housing so it will not interfere
with the rain protector. Reinstall the speaker.
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Model Applicable To
88-90 ALL
PRELUDE
NOV. 2, 1990
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Check that the hood closes and latches properly. If necessary, adjust the hood and/or latch as
described in section 20 of the service manual.
2. Locate the depressed or warped area on the hood's underside. Using a hacksaw blade and jab
saw, cut through the adhesive bonding the hood skin to the hood stiffener in the affected area.
NOTE: Some paint damage is unavoidable. Cut carefully to cause as little damage as possible.
3. Close the hood and check for warpage. If the hood is still warped, go to step 4. If the hood is
now OK, go to step 5.
4. This step should be done only by someone experienced in body repair. Using the proper-sized
suction cup-type dent puller, pull out the depressed area in the hood skin.
5. Increase the gap between the hood skin and stiffener by inserting small wedges. Fill the gap with
a small amount of 3M Hood Flutter Repair Kit material (3M P/N 08105). Use sections of material
1/2 in. or less in length.
NOTE: Using too much Hood Flutter material can cause a depression to form in the hood skin.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Hood > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 87027 > Nov > 90 > Body - Center Section of the Hood Is Warped > Page 3329
6. Remove the wedges. Gently close the hood and let the adhesive set up.
7. Apply touch-up paint to any scratched areas on the underside of the hood.
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Hood: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Center Section of the Hood Is Warped
Model Applicable To
88-90 ALL
PRELUDE
NOV. 2, 1990
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Check that the hood closes and latches properly. If necessary, adjust the hood and/or latch as
described in section 20 of the service manual.
2. Locate the depressed or warped area on the hood's underside. Using a hacksaw blade and jab
saw, cut through the adhesive bonding the hood skin to the hood stiffener in the affected area.
NOTE: Some paint damage is unavoidable. Cut carefully to cause as little damage as possible.
3. Close the hood and check for warpage. If the hood is still warped, go to step 4. If the hood is
now OK, go to step 5.
4. This step should be done only by someone experienced in body repair. Using the proper-sized
suction cup-type dent puller, pull out the depressed area in the hood skin.
5. Increase the gap between the hood skin and stiffener by inserting small wedges. Fill the gap with
a small amount of 3M Hood Flutter Repair Kit material (3M P/N 08105). Use sections of material
1/2 in. or less in length.
NOTE: Using too much Hood Flutter material can cause a depression to form in the hood skin.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Hood > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Hood: > 87027 > Nov > 90 > Body - Center Section of the Hood Is
Warped > Page 3335
6. Remove the wedges. Gently close the hood and let the adhesive set up.
7. Apply touch-up paint to any scratched areas on the underside of the hood.
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Model
NOV 3,1989
Warped Hood Garnish (Supersedes 87-022, "Raised Hood Cowl", dated May 2,'88) PROBLEM
The edge of the hood garnish is coming loose from its mounting, causing the garnish to raise
above the surface of the hood.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the garnish and garnish clips with the improved parts listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1 . Open the hood. Remove the two hole caps and the two retention screws.
2. Hand-pry the garnish away from the hood surface, disconnect the windshield washer hose, and
discard the garnish.
3. Remove the eight garnish clips from their recess in the hood and discard them.
4. Install eight new garnish clips in the recessed areas. Make sure they are completely seated into
the hood.
5. Snap the new hood garnish into place starting at the center and working toward one side and
then the other. Then reinstall the two retention screws and two hole caps.
PARTS INFORMATION
Hood garnish:
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Hood > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Hood: > 87022 > Nov > 89 > Body - Hood Garnish Warped > Page
3340
Operation Number: 813025 [NEW]
Flat rate time: 0.4 hour
Model
NOV 3,1989
Warped Hood Garnish (Supersedes 87-022, "Raised Hood Cowl", dated May 2,'88) PROBLEM
The edge of the hood garnish is coming loose from its mounting, causing the garnish to raise
above the surface of the hood.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the garnish and garnish clips with the improved parts listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
1 . Open the hood. Remove the two hole caps and the two retention screws.
2. Hand-pry the garnish away from the hood surface, disconnect the windshield washer hose, and
discard the garnish.
3. Remove the eight garnish clips from their recess in the hood and discard them.
4. Install eight new garnish clips in the recessed areas. Make sure they are completely seated into
the hood.
5. Snap the new hood garnish into place starting at the center and working toward one side and
then the other. Then reinstall the two retention screws and two hole caps.
PARTS INFORMATION
Hood garnish:
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Hood > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Hood: > 87022 > Nov > 89 > Body - Hood Garnish Warped > Page 3346
Operation Number: 813025 [NEW]
Model Applicable To
Through
'88 VIN
PRELUDE JC077545
89-006
BODY Issue Date
When closed forcefully, the trunk lid may hit the rear panel, chipping the paint, on the lower corners
of the trunk lid.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install new trunk lid edge cushions and pack the trunk weatherstrip with additional cushioning
material.
NOTE: Use the rubber windshield dam listed under PARTS INFORMATION to pack the
weatherstrip.
PROCEDURE
1. Open the trunk lid and remove the trunk weatherstrip from the rear edge of the trunk opening.
2. Peel the release paper off of the cushioning material. Cut the cushion exactly in half and soak
the pieces in soapy water or tire lubricant.
3. Insert a piece of small-gauge wire through the outer 3 mm vent hole on the right side of the trunk
weatherstrip. Feed the wire through the weatherstrip, toward the center of the car, then out the right
5 mm vent hole as shown.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Trunk / Liftgate: > 89006 > Feb > 89 > Paint - Chips On Trunk Corners >
Page 3355
4. Tie the end of the wire to the end of one of the cushions.
5. Use the wire to pull the cushion through the 5 mm hole, over to the 3 mm hole. Do not pull the
cushion out through the 3 mm hole.
6. Remove the wire from the cushion. Cut off any excess cushion and tuck the end of the cushion
inside the 5 mm hole.
7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 for the left side, then reinstall the weatherstrip.
8. Replace the original trunk lid edge cushions with the ones listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
9. Adjust the height of the edge cushions to 17 mm and close the trunk lid. The trunk lid should fit
flush with all adjacent body surfaces. If not, adjust the trunk striker and the edge cushions as
shown.
PARTS INFORMATION
OCT 2, '87
PROBABLE CAUSE
The problem may result from one or more causes listed below:
^ Damaged sealant at the outer and inner wheel housing seam. And improperly sealed rear wheel
housing seam and damper unit.
^ Damaged sealant at the rear window corners. And unsealed trunk-side rear fender and rear panel
seams.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Check the car's VIN, then select the appropriate corrective action(s) from the chart below.
PARTS INFORMATION
TIME P/N
04741-SBO-672ZZ
CORRECTIVE ACTION A
1. From inside the trunk, remove the back-up light and taillight maintenance lids.
2. Disconnect the 2-P connector from behind each back-up light, and the 8-P connector from
behind each taillight.
3. Remove the 8 mount nuts from each back-up light, and the 6 mount nuts from each taillight.
Then, remove the back-up lights, taillights, and gaskets.
1. Remove the protective rubber seal from the outer and inner wheel housing seam.
3. Apply a bead of 3M Flexiclear Body Sealer (P/N 08405) along the seam.
4. After the sealer has dried, reinstall the protective rubber seal.
5. Clean the rear wheel housing and damper unit seal area so its free of any dirt.
6. Apply a bead of 3M Flexiclear Body Sealer (P/N 08405) around the seam.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Trunk / Liftgate: > 87023 > Oct > 87 > Body - Water Leaks Into Trunk
Area > Page 3363
CORRECTIVE ACTION C
Sunroof Drain Hose
1. Remove the 6 plastic snaps from the rear wheel housing lining and the first 2 screws from the
rear panel garnish.
2. From the trunk area, insert the sunroof drain hose completely into its valve.
CORRECTIVE ACTION D
1. Remove the 7 screws from the lower molding and remove it.
2. Remove the side, corner, and upper moldings with a molding clip release tool (see p. 20-13 of
the '88 Prelude Service Manual).
3. Clean the 4 corners with alcohol, making sure all dirt is removed.
6. Remove the 6 plastic snaps from the rear wheel housing lining and the first 2 screws from the
rear panel garnish.
7. From the trunk side, clean the rear fender and panel seam area with alcohol; then apply a bead
of 3M Flexiclear Body Sealer (P/N 08405) to the seam.
Note: make sure the seam is completely filled and sealer overlaps (about 1 cm) onto the rear
fender and panel.
Trunk / Liftgate: All Technical Service Bulletins Paint - Chips On Trunk Corners
Model Applicable To
Through
'88 VIN
PRELUDE JC077545
When closed forcefully, the trunk lid may hit the rear panel, chipping the paint, on the lower corners
of the trunk lid.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install new trunk lid edge cushions and pack the trunk weatherstrip with additional cushioning
material.
NOTE: Use the rubber windshield dam listed under PARTS INFORMATION to pack the
weatherstrip.
PROCEDURE
1. Open the trunk lid and remove the trunk weatherstrip from the rear edge of the trunk opening.
2. Peel the release paper off of the cushioning material. Cut the cushion exactly in half and soak
the pieces in soapy water or tire lubricant.
3. Insert a piece of small-gauge wire through the outer 3 mm vent hole on the right side of the trunk
weatherstrip. Feed the wire through the weatherstrip, toward the center of the car, then out the right
5 mm vent hole as shown.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate: > 89006 > Feb > 89 > Paint - Chips On
Trunk Corners > Page 3370
4. Tie the end of the wire to the end of one of the cushions.
5. Use the wire to pull the cushion through the 5 mm hole, over to the 3 mm hole. Do not pull the
cushion out through the 3 mm hole.
6. Remove the wire from the cushion. Cut off any excess cushion and tuck the end of the cushion
inside the 5 mm hole.
7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 for the left side, then reinstall the weatherstrip.
8. Replace the original trunk lid edge cushions with the ones listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
9. Adjust the height of the edge cushions to 17 mm and close the trunk lid. The trunk lid should fit
flush with all adjacent body surfaces. If not, adjust the trunk striker and the edge cushions as
shown.
PARTS INFORMATION
OCT 2, '87
PROBABLE CAUSE
The problem may result from one or more causes listed below:
^ Damaged sealant at the outer and inner wheel housing seam. And improperly sealed rear wheel
housing seam and damper unit.
^ Damaged sealant at the rear window corners. And unsealed trunk-side rear fender and rear panel
seams.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Check the car's VIN, then select the appropriate corrective action(s) from the chart below.
PARTS INFORMATION
TIME P/N
04741-SBO-672ZZ
CORRECTIVE ACTION A
1. From inside the trunk, remove the back-up light and taillight maintenance lids.
2. Disconnect the 2-P connector from behind each back-up light, and the 8-P connector from
behind each taillight.
3. Remove the 8 mount nuts from each back-up light, and the 6 mount nuts from each taillight.
Then, remove the back-up lights, taillights, and gaskets.
1. Remove the protective rubber seal from the outer and inner wheel housing seam.
3. Apply a bead of 3M Flexiclear Body Sealer (P/N 08405) along the seam.
4. After the sealer has dried, reinstall the protective rubber seal.
5. Clean the rear wheel housing and damper unit seal area so its free of any dirt.
6. Apply a bead of 3M Flexiclear Body Sealer (P/N 08405) around the seam.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Trunk / Liftgate: > 87023 > Oct > 87 > Body - Water Leaks
Into Trunk Area > Page 3378
CORRECTIVE ACTION C
Sunroof Drain Hose
1. Remove the 6 plastic snaps from the rear wheel housing lining and the first 2 screws from the
rear panel garnish.
2. From the trunk area, insert the sunroof drain hose completely into its valve.
CORRECTIVE ACTION D
1. Remove the 7 screws from the lower molding and remove it.
2. Remove the side, corner, and upper moldings with a molding clip release tool (see p. 20-13 of
the '88 Prelude Service Manual).
3. Clean the 4 corners with alcohol, making sure all dirt is removed.
6. Remove the 6 plastic snaps from the rear wheel housing lining and the first 2 screws from the
rear panel garnish.
7. From the trunk side, clean the rear fender and panel seam area with alcohol; then apply a bead
of 3M Flexiclear Body Sealer (P/N 08405) to the seam.
Note: make sure the seam is completely filled and sealer overlaps (about 1 cm) onto the rear
fender and panel.
Unsightly stains on chrome or stainless steel trim around the door glass no longer means trim
replacement. A good-quality chrome or aluminum polish, some careful masking to protect rubber
molding and painted surfaces, and a little bit of elbow grease, can work wonders to get back that
showroom shine. A couple of good brands to try are Mothers PowerMetal(TM), or Meguiars All
Metal Polish or NXT Generation(TM) All Metal Polish.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Console: > 93012 > Feb > 93 > Interior - Squeak From Center Console
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Insulate the points of contact with EPT Sealer or adhesive-backed wool felt.
1988-91 Prelude
2. Cut strips of adhesive-backed wool felt (P/N 06693-SA5-000). Apply them to all points
highlighted in the illustration.
3. Reinstall the center console.
1992-93 Prelude
2. Cut strips of adhesive-backed wool felt (P/N 06693-SA5-000). Apply them to the instrument
panel edges where they contact the center console.
3. Cut a section of 10T EPT Sealer (P/N 06992-SA5-000), and apply it to both sides of the radio
bracket.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Console: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Squeak From Center Console
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Insulate the points of contact with EPT Sealer or adhesive-backed wool felt.
1988-91 Prelude
2. Cut strips of adhesive-backed wool felt (P/N 06693-SA5-000). Apply them to all points
highlighted in the illustration.
3. Reinstall the center console.
1992-93 Prelude
2. Cut strips of adhesive-backed wool felt (P/N 06693-SA5-000). Apply them to the instrument
panel edges where they contact the center console.
3. Cut a section of 10T EPT Sealer (P/N 06992-SA5-000), and apply it to both sides of the radio
bracket.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
1. To remove the dashboard, first slide the seats back fully and remove the:
2. Disconnect the wire harnesses from the connector holder, and fuse box.
3. Disconnect the speedometer cable. 4. Remove the 6 screws and radio panel, then disconnect
the wire connectors and antenna cable.
8. Disconnect the connector and wire harnesses from heater control unit. 9. Remove the clock from
the top of the dashboard.
10. Lower the steering column. 11. Remove the dashboard mounting bolts. 12. Lift the dashboard
as you pull, so it will slide up and off the guide pin in the middle. Hold the dashboard from
underneath so it won't fall when it
REASSEMBLY NOTE:
- Make sure the dashboard fits onto the guide pin correctly.
- Before tightening the dashboard bolts, make sure the dashboard wires are not pinched, and that
the dashboard is not interfering with the heater control cable.
PRELUDE Affected
Looseness in the headliner material causes ripples or bubbles, making the overall appearance
unacceptable.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Any 1988 Prelude within the V.I.N. ranges below equipped with a listed headliner color:
JHMBA4...JC066108
JHMBA4...JC067190
JHMBA4...JC069925
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the headliner with the improved part listed under PARTS INFORMATION. Refer to page
20-35 of the '88 Prelude Service Manual for the replacement procedure.
NOTE: The replacement headliner has two positioning tabs, located on the left and right sides near
the centerline. Their purpose is to speed installation on the production line. Any damage to these
tabs during shipping will not affect the installation procedure or the final appearance.
PARTS INFORMATION
WARRANTY INFORMATION
This repair, like any repair performed after warranty expiration, is eligible for goodwill consideration
by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's decision,
before starting the work.
PRELUDE Affected
Looseness in the headliner material causes ripples or bubbles, making the overall appearance
unacceptable.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Any 1988 Prelude within the V.I.N. ranges below equipped with a listed headliner color:
JHMBA4...JC066108
JHMBA4...JC067190
JHMBA4...JC069925
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the headliner with the improved part listed under PARTS INFORMATION. Refer to page
20-35 of the '88 Prelude Service Manual for the replacement procedure.
NOTE: The replacement headliner has two positioning tabs, located on the left and right sides near
the centerline. Their purpose is to speed installation on the production line. Any damage to these
tabs during shipping will not affect the installation procedure or the final appearance.
PARTS INFORMATION
WARRANTY INFORMATION
This repair, like any repair performed after warranty expiration, is eligible for goodwill consideration
by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's decision,
before starting the work.
Circuit Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3423
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3424
Ground Distribution Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3425
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3427
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3428
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3429
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3432
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3433
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3434
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3435
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3436
Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3437
Troubleshooting Precautions
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3438
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3439
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3440
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3441
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3442
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3443
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3445
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3446
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3447
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Door Locks > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3449
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Got a service customer complaining he or she can't turn the ignition switch to start the engine? The
reason could just be the steering column lock pin is engaged with the front wheels turned. Here's
what typically happens:
Some folks use the steering wheel to help support themselves while climbing in or out of the
vehicle. This is very common among elderly or disabled drivers. Doing this turns the front wheels,
which twists the tires against the ground. The twisted tires apply torque to the steering column.
With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), the steering column lock pin is engaged. But the applied
torque on the steering column binds the lock pin, making it tough to turn the ignition switch. The
ignition switch won't turn to ON (II) if the lock pin isn't disengaged from the steering column.
Tell your customer there's nothing wrong with the ignition switch itself. All he or she needs to do is
turn the steering wheel from side to side while turning the switch. This usually releases the lock pin
so the engine can be started. In some cases, though, your customer may need to give a good tug
on the wheel. This could easily happen when parking on a hill and the wheels are turned sharply
before the engine is shut off.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information
Technical Service Bulletin # 98-011 Date: 040220
98-011
This service bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda
vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering,
and transmitter batteries. A remote transmitter quick reference guide is shown below.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3464
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3465
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3466
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3467
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3468
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3469
Remote Transmitter Quick Reference Guide
NOTE:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3470
This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When
replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new
transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit.
1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one.
2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip.
3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to
lock the chip in place.
6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat.
7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure
as in steps 2 and 3.)
If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the
control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter and install it in the new one.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip
set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is
5319. This ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Order the additional transmitter from
American Honda.
If you have questions about how to order a four ROM chip set, call Alpine's parts department at
(800) 421-2284, extension 8885.
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer
work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes, and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the
button during this procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering
column cover flashes when the system is in programming mode.
3. Press the top button on the transmitter. Check that the parking lights flash to confirm that the
transmitter's code was accepted.
4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. Check that the parking lights flash
after each transmitter code is accepted.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the radio (between the AM/FM and CD/TAPE
buttons) to enter the programming mode. (Continue to hold the button during this procedure, or
programming will be cancelled.) Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that you're in the
programming mode.
3. Within 5 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the transmitter. Check that the power
door locks cycle to confirm that the code was accepted.
4. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each of the remaining transmitters.
5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit
programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
1999-04 Civic EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
*1999-03 Civic (except EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2002-04 Civic Si with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2003-04 Civic Hybrid with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
2004 Civic (except LX & EX) with dealer-installed keyless entry system or security system
2004 Civic LX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3473
2004 Element EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. To order a transmitter, you need
the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code
number.
The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control
unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number
stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car.
Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The
new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and
glove compartment lock.
To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the iN system. The
transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA only by authorized Honda dealers. Send
a completed order form (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer Parts
Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.) to this address:
On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number
from one of the original transmitters.
If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at (500)
552-4690, or fax them at (310) 595-1029 (weekdays from 5:30A.M. thru 4:00 P.M. Pacific time).
You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The
transmitter will be sent to your dealership COD. Additional shipping and handling charges will be
applied to the order.
NOTE:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
2. Push the driver's power door lock switch to the unlock position and hold it. (Continue to hold the
switch during this procedure.)
3. Insert the key into the ignition switch, then remove it. Repeat this four more times (five times
total) within 10 seconds. (You must complete steps 3 and 4 within 10 seconds or the system will
exit the programming mode.)
4. Insert the key into the ignition switch. After you insert the key, make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in the programming mode.
5. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. All the power door locks (except the
driver's door) should cycle to confirm that the system accepted the transmitter's code.
6. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of
programming the first transmitter.
7. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Transmitter Identification
The transmitter for the 1995-99 Accord and the 2000-02 Accord look identical, but they are not
interchangeable. The 1995-99 transmitter works the doors of a 2000-02 Accord, but it does not
open the trunk. If you are not sure which transmitter you have, press and hold the trunk release
button while looking at the LED. The LED on the 1995-99 transmitter comes on in about 1.1
seconds. The LED on the 2000-02 transmitter comes on in about 0.5 second.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete each step within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode. Program the transmitters within 10 seconds.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
99-04 Odyssey EX
1999-00 Odyssey EX with factory-installed keyless entry system or dealer-installed security system
*Transmitter Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3481
The 1999-00 transmitter is not interchangeable with the 2001-04 transmitter. To tell them apart,
look at the FCC ID on the back.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting
the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Ordering a Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system accepts up to three transmitters. The transmitter codes are stored in a stacking-type
memory. If a fourth transmitter code is programmed, the code for the first transmitter is erased.
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all of the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
^ You must complete steps 1-6 within 4 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from
exiting the programming mode.
2. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on one of the transmitters. (An unprogrammed transmitter
can be used for this step.)
4. Repeat steps 1 2, and 3 two more times using the same transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on the same transmitter. Make sure the power door locks
cycle to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
7. Within 10 seconds, press the "Lock" or "Unlock" button on each transmitter. Make sure the
power door locks cycle after you press each transmitter button to confirm that the system accepted
the transmitter's code.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to exit the programming mode.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Batteries for the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitters can be
accepted.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3485
2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once
you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a
square, yellow button; this is the programming button.
4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps
followed by a five-chirp burst. This confirms that the system is in programming mode. The siren
then emits prompting chirps at 3-second intervals.
6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the siren emits a
confirmation chirp to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If you
wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter, or wait
more than 30 seconds between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps and the
system exits the programming mode.
7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK"
button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.)
8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch to ON, then turn it to LOCK.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each
transmitter uses one battery.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3486
96-97 Passport With Dealer-Installed Security System
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to two transmitters. If you program a
third transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter two times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only two transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Move the driver's seat forward. Locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor
underneath the seat.
3. Use a pen or pencil to press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control
unit. When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming
button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)
4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps once, and the front sidemarker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was
accepted by the control unit.
6. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit until the LED on the
instrument panel begins to flash, then release the button. (Steps 6 and 7 must be done within 5
seconds of each other.)
7. Press and release the bottom button on the transmitter. Verify that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps twice, and the front sidemarker lights flash twice to confirm that the transmitter's code was
accepted by the control unit.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK. Test the transmitter you just programmed. If it doesn't work
repeat steps 2 thru 7.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
^ Procedure One cancels all learned transmitter codes and adds one new transmitter. None of the
previously programmed transmitters will work. Use this programming procedure only if all
transmitters were lost or stolen, or if a new control unit has been installed.
^ Procedure Two adds additional transmitters without cancelling any of the previously learned
codes. The system will accept up to four transmitters.
Procedure One (cancels all codes, adds one new transmitter)
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This
step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the system will not enter the programming mode.)
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position five times. Close and
open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks cycle
once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that
the door locks cycle once.
6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. (This
step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3488
system will not enter the programming mode.)
4. Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position and then to the LOCK position three times. Close
and open the door. (Complete this process within 10 seconds.) Verify that the power door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter you are programming. Verify that
the door locks cycle once.
6. Within 20 seconds, press the "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Verify that the door locks
cycle once to confirm that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
NOTE:
On '00-02 Passports, the audible chirp sounds only when you push the LOCK button on the
transmitter a second time.
1. Open the driver's door, then insert the key in the driver's door lock.
2. Turn the key to the "LOCK" position, then to the "UNLOCK" position. Repeat this two more
times. (Complete this procedure within 10 seconds.)
4. Within 10 seconds, turn the key to the "LOCK" position, and then to the "UNLOCK" position,
three times. Close and open the door once. Verify that the power door locks cycle once to confirm
that the chirp has been turned on/off.
Ordering a Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Model ALL
This Service Bulletin gives you information about keyless remote transmitters for most Honda
vehicles. Each procedure describes transmitter programming (if applicable), transmitter ordering*,
and transmitter batteries. A transmitter quick reference guide is included.
Use this index to find the information for the vehicle you are working on.
Civic
1992-93 2
1994-95 5
1996-97 8
del Sol
1993 2
1994-95 5
1996-97 7
Accord
1991-93 EX Wagon 3
1991-93 LX Wagon 4
1994-97 EX Wagon 6
Prelude
1988-91 1
Odyssey
1995-97 EX 6
Passport
PARTS INFORMATION
Transmitter ordering information and battery part numbers are in each transmitter section.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3490
Procedure 1
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3491
Programming the Transmitter
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Alpine of America by authorized Honda Dealers only.
Send a completed order form (found in Parts Information Bulletin A91 -0031) along with a dealer
check for $59.00 (payable to Alpine of America), to this address:
Procedure 2
NOTE:
This system uses ROM chips that match the transmitter to the security system control unit. When
replacing a lost or stolen transmitter, you need to use the three ROM chips (provided with the new
transmitter) to match the old transmitter with the new transmitter and the control unit.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3492
1. Remove the rear cover from the old transmitter and the new one.
2. Remove the ROM chip from the old transmitter by sliding its socket holder toward the ROM chip.
3. Insert a new ROM chip into the socket holder, then slide the socket holder toward the socket to
lock the chip into place.
6. Remove the security system control unit from under the driver's seat.
7. Open the access cover on the control unit, and replace the ROM chip. (Use the same procedure
as in steps 2 and 3.)
If you are replacing a damaged transmitter, don't replace the ROM chips in the transmitters and the
control unit; just remove the chip from the old transmitter, and install it in the new one.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
If your customer wants to add a third transmitter to the system, you need to order a four ROM chip
set directly from Alpine Electronics of America. The Alpine part number for the four ROM chip set is
8319. For each set ordered, send a dealer check for $24.00 (payable to Alpine of America), to this
address:
Alpine Electronics of America 19145 Gramercy Place Torrance, CA 90501 Attention: Al Sula
(Parts)
Alpine's ROM chip set does not come with a transmitter. Additional transmitters can be ordered
from American Honda using normal parts ordering procedures.
If you have questions on how to order the four ROM chip set, call Alpine's Parts Department at
(800) 421-2284, extension 8885.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3493
Batteries for the Transmitter
Procedure 3
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. To order a transmitter, you need
the vehicle's VIN, the code number from the power door lock control unit, and the ignition key code
number.
The power door lock code number is a five-digit number etched into the plastic case of the control
unit (mounted under the driver's seat). The ignition key code number is a four-digit number
stamped on the metal shank of all five original keys delivered with the car.
Replacement transmitters are manufactured to match the code of the keyless entry system. The
new ignition key is cut to match the vehicle's ignition switch, front door locks, tailgate lock, and
glove compartment lock.
To order this transmitter, use the controlled parts ordering screen on the HONDANET 2000
system. The transmitters are manufactured in Japan; delivery takes 4 to 6 weeks.
Procedure 4
Transmitters can be ordered directly from Kenwood USA by authorized Honda Dealers only. Send
a completed order form,* (copy it from the Accessory Replacement Parts section of the Dealer
Parts Price List) along with a dealer check for $30.00 (payable to Kenwood U.S.A. Corp.), to this
address:
If you need a transmitter shipped overnight, fill out the order form, then call Kenwood at
(800)852-4690, or Fax them at (310) 898-1029 (weekdays, from 8:30 A.M. thru 4:00 PM., PST).
You will need to give the information on the order form to the Kenwood representative. The
transmitter will be sent to your Dealership C.O.D. Additional shipping and handling charges will be
applied to the order.
*On the order form, you must include the serial number of the keyless control unit or the number
from one of the original transmitters.
Procedure 5
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the system's memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer
work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
2. Press and hold the Valet-Disarm button on the dashboard lower cover. (Continue to hold the
button during the procedure, or programming will be cancelled.) The LED on the upper steering
wheel cover flashes when the system is in the programming mode.
3. Press the top button on the transmitter. The parking lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's
code was accepted.
4. Press the top button on each of the remaining transmitters. The parking lights flash after each
transmitter code is accepted.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Procedure 6
NOTE:
Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you are in the
programming mode.
2. Press and hold the driver's door master power door lock switch up in the unlock position.
(Continue to hold the switch during this procedure.)
3. Insert the key in the ignition switch and remove it. Repeat this four more times within 10
seconds, then leave the key in the switch. Check that the power door locks cycle to confirm that the
system is in the programming mode. (This step must be completed within 10 seconds, or the
system will exit the programming mode.)
4. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that all power door locks
(except the driver's) cycle to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by the system.
5. To program a second transmitter, press its "LOCK" or UNLOCK" button within 10 seconds of
programming the first transmitter. (You can program two transmitters per vehicle.)
6. Release the master power door lock switch to exit the programming mode.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Procedure 7
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
^ To keep the system from exiting the programming mode, complete each step within 5 seconds of
the previous step, and program the transmitters within 10 seconds of each other.
4. Repeat steps 1, 2, and 3 two more times with the transmitter used in step 2.
6. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the same transmitter. Check that the power door
locks cycle to confirm that you're in the programming mode.
7. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on each transmitter. (You can program up to four
transmitters per vehicle) Check that the power door locks cycle after you push each transmitter
button, confirming that the system has accepted the transmitter's code.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
NOTES:
^ Entering the programming mode cancels all learned transmitter codes, so none of the previously
programmed transmitters will work. You must reprogram all the transmitters once you're in the
programming mode.
^ To keep the system from exiting the programming mode, complete each step within 5 seconds of
the previous step, and program the transmitters within 10 seconds of each other.
3. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that the power door locks cycle
to confirm that the code was accepted.
4. Press the "LOCK" or "UNLOCK" button on all other transmitters. (You can program up to four
transmitters per vehicle.)
5. After all the transmitters have been programmed, release the Valet-Disarm button to exit the
programming mode.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Procedure 9
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times.
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
1. Locate the security system control unit mounted under the driver's seat.
2. Rub your finger over the label on the top of the control unit until you find the depression. Once
you find it, push your finger through the label to expose the hole underneath. Inside the hole is a
square, yellow button; this is the programming button.
4. Press and hold the programming button. Check that the security siren emits four separate chirps
followed by a five-chirp burst to confirm that you're in the programming mode. The siren then emits
prompting chirps at three-second intervals.
6. After a prompting chirp, press the "LOCK" button on the transmitter. Check that the siren emits a
confirmation chirp to let you know that the transmitter's code was accepted by the control unit. If
you wait more than 30 seconds after the prompting chirp before programming a transmitter or
between programming transmitters, the siren emits three chirps, and the system exits the
programming mode.
7. To program additional transmitters, wait for another prompting chirp, then press the "LOCK"
button. (You can program up to four transmitters per vehicle.)
8. To exit the programming mode, turn the ignition switch on, then turn it off.
9. Push all the function buttons on each transmitter to make sure they work correctly.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
The battery number is 23-144 (Radio Shack), A-23 (Eveready), or MS-21/MN-21 (Duracell). Each
transmitter uses one battery.
Procedure 10
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Keyless Entry > Keyless Entry Transmitter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Keyless Entry - Remote Transmitter Information > Page 3499
Programming the Transmitter
NOTES:
^ The system uses a stacking-type memory that accepts up to four transmitters. If you program a
fifth transmitter, the memory for the first transmitter is pushed out, and it will no longer work.
^ To clear a lost or stolen transmitter from the system's memory, program a transmitter four times,
This will remove the missing transmitter from memory, since only four transmitter codes can be
accepted.
^ Another way to clear a lost or stolen transmitter is to erase all transmitter codes and then
reprogram them. To do this, refer to the security system owner's manual.
1. Move the driver's seat forward, and locate the security system control unit mounted on the floor,
underneath the seat.
3. Press and hold the green programming button on the side of the control unit with a pen or pencil.
When the security system LED on the instrument panel comes on, release the programming
button. (Steps 3 and 4 must be done within 5 seconds of each other.)
4. Press and release the top button on the transmitter. Check that the LED goes out, the siren
chirps once, and the front marker lights flash to confirm that the transmitter's code was accepted by
the control unit.
Transmitters can be ordered only by authorized Honda Dealers. Order them from American Honda
using normal parts ordering procedures.
Body Components.
Inside RH Door
Applicable to: 1988 Prelude
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Doors -
Water Leaks Onto the Speaker Housing and Grille
Mirrors: Technical Service Bulletins Doors - Water Leaks Onto the Speaker Housing and Grille
Model Applicable To
'88-90 ALL
BODY Issue Date AUG 10, 1990 Door Speaker Grille Gets Wet PROBLEM
Water leaks down the front window channel and onto the speaker housing and grille.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Seal the mirror with 3M black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (3M part number 08011), and cover the
speaker housing with plastic.
1. Remove the door panel and mirror. Refer to Section 20 of the Service Manual.
2. Apply a coat of adhesive to the mirror and the mirror gasket, as shown. Reinstall the mirror.
NOTE: Make sure the mirror gasket is not pinched during reinstallation.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Doors -
Water Leaks Onto the Speaker Housing and Grille > Page 3509
3. Remove the glass run channel from around the mirror area.
4. Apply the adhesive to the door where the end of the front window channel and the mirror gasket
meet.
5. Remove the door speaker and housing. Inspect the speaker. If it's damaged, replace it.
6. Cut a 10" x 12" section from a piece of plastic (such as a trash bag), to cover the back of the
speaker housing. Make a small hole in the plastic for the speaker wires.
7. Place the plastic on the back of the speaker housing and mount the speaker housing to the door
panel.
8. Neatly trim the excess plastic from around the edge of the speaker housing so it will not interfere
with the rain protector. Reinstall the speaker.
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Circuit Schematics
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Instructions > Page 3513
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Instructions > Page 3514
Ground Distribution Schematics
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Instructions > Page 3515
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Instructions > Page 3517
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 3518
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 3519
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Instructions > Page 3525
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Instructions > Page 3526
Test Equipment
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Instructions > Page 3527
Troubleshooting Precautions
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 3528
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Instructions > Page 3529
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 3530
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 3531
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Instructions > Page 3532
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Model Applicable To
Through
'88 VIN
PRELUDE JC077545
89-006
BODY Issue Date
When closed forcefully, the trunk lid may hit the rear panel, chipping the paint, on the lower corners
of the trunk lid.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install new trunk lid edge cushions and pack the trunk weatherstrip with additional cushioning
material.
NOTE: Use the rubber windshield dam listed under PARTS INFORMATION to pack the
weatherstrip.
PROCEDURE
1. Open the trunk lid and remove the trunk weatherstrip from the rear edge of the trunk opening.
2. Peel the release paper off of the cushioning material. Cut the cushion exactly in half and soak
the pieces in soapy water or tire lubricant.
3. Insert a piece of small-gauge wire through the outer 3 mm vent hole on the right side of the trunk
weatherstrip. Feed the wire through the weatherstrip, toward the center of the car, then out the right
5 mm vent hole as shown.
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4. Tie the end of the wire to the end of one of the cushions.
5. Use the wire to pull the cushion through the 5 mm hole, over to the 3 mm hole. Do not pull the
cushion out through the 3 mm hole.
6. Remove the wire from the cushion. Cut off any excess cushion and tuck the end of the cushion
inside the 5 mm hole.
7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 for the left side, then reinstall the weatherstrip.
8. Replace the original trunk lid edge cushions with the ones listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
9. Adjust the height of the edge cushions to 17 mm and close the trunk lid. The trunk lid should fit
flush with all adjacent body surfaces. If not, adjust the trunk striker and the edge cushions as
shown.
PARTS INFORMATION
NOTE: The flat rate time does not include paint repair. Use normal warranty procedures for the
paint repair.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Paint: > 99-062 > Jan > 07 > Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage
Paint: All Technical Service Bulletins Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage
99-062
(Supersedes 99-062, dated October 12, 1999 to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
SYMPTOM
The exterior paint surface does not feel smooth after the vehicle is washed.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Environmental fallout (airborne metallic particles, tree sap, paint overspray, road tar, insect residue,
etc.) has adhered to the exterior paint surface.
NOTE:
This form of paint damage should not be confused with acid rain damage. Unlike environmental
fallout damage, acid rain damage appears on the paint surface as pits or water spots-possibly
black or brown in the center-which may feel smooth to the touch.
PREVENTION
The shipping wax/wrap guard applied to the vehicle at the factory provides the best protection for
the paint finish from environmental fallout and acid rain damage. American Honda strongly
recommends that you leave the shipping wax/wrap guard on the vehicle for as long as possible.
Your dealership is responsible for maintaining the vehicle's finish after the shipping wax/ wrap
guard is removed.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Select a product line from one of the manufacturers listed in REQUIRED MATERIALS to clean the
paint surface and to wax it after cleaning. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions for
each of the products you use.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
In warranty: American Honda will reimburse for this repair only under these conditions:
*NOTE:
When submitting the claim, make sure you enter the vehicle's date of receipt in the customer
contention comment section. The claim will be rejected without this information.*
REPAIR PROCEDURE
2. Tear off a piece of clay. Shape the piece with your hands into a flat disk about 3 inches in
diameter.
3. Spray a 2-to 3-square-foot area of the affected panel with the manufacturer's lubricant.
4. Clean a 1-square-foot section of the sprayed area by rubbing it with the clay.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Paint: > 99-062 > Jan > 07 > Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage >
Page 3562
5. Check your work by running your fingers over the cleaned and lubricated surface to feel for any
remaining contamination.
^ If you feel any particles on the cleaned surface fold the clay in half, knead it back into a disk
shape, clean the section again, and recheck your work.
^ If the cleaned surface feels smooth, fold the clay in half, knead it back into a disk shape, and go
to step 6.
NOTE:
You must carefully fold and knead the clay to keep a clean side next to the paint surface. Never
use clay that has fallen on the ground. Any small pieces of dirt or sand that imbed in the clay will
scratch the paint surface. If the clay falls on the ground, discard it and get a fresh piece.
6. Clean the remaining sections of the sprayed area (repeat steps 4 and 5).
7. Wipe the lubricant from all the cleaned sections with a clean terry cloth towel.
8. Clean the rest of the affected panel and any additional panels that need cleaning (repeat steps 3
thru 7).
9. Apply the manufacturer's recommended wax or glaze to all the cleaned panels.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Paint: > 97-028 > Mar > 97 > Body - Minor Paint Finish Repair
Technical Service Bulletin # 97-028 Date: 970331
97-028
The first thing a new vehicle owner sees when he or she takes delivery of a new vehicle is the paint
finish. Therefore, making the vehicle look good is very important. However, customer feedback has
pointed out that many new vehicles are delivered with scratches and swirl marks. This is especially
true with dark colored vehicles.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the paint finish using the tools, supplies, and procedures
recommended for the type of damage (scratches, swirl marks, etc.) and for the color of the paint
RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND SUPPLIES To repair the paint finish, you should use these tools
and supplies:
* ETG (Electronic Thickness Gauge), or equivalent These mil gauges are commercially available.
They can be purchased from Pro Motorcar Products at 800-334-2843.
Supplies -
While we cannot recommend one manufacturer over another, any of the manufacturers listed here
can provide you with quality products through their nationwide distributor network. Contact them for
your paint repair supply needs, choose one, and then use the system of only that one
manufacturer. If you need to know how to use the products, ask the manufacturer for training.
3M Automotive Trades Division 22100 Telegraph Road P.O. Box 358 Southfield, MI 48037-0358
Phone Number: 800-521-8180 Ext. 6890
Repair Procedure
The following procedures may not apply to all conditions or colors. Use the procedure that best
suits the condition and color of the vehicle you're
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Paint: > 97-028 > Mar > 97 > Body - Minor Paint Finish Repair > Page
3567
repairing.
Repairing and Polishing the Painted Surface
The goal of a minor paint repair is to correct the damage to the upper layer of the painted surface.
This is done by removing a thin layer of paint (no more than 0.5 mil) and then restoring the luster
by polishing the repaired surface. A quick way to determine the depth of a scratch in the paint is to
run your fingernail across the scratch. If your fingernail catches on the scratch, the area will need to
be wet sanded and polished.
When doing scratch or swirl mark repairs, use only quality products from one manufacturer. Each
manufacturer has its own set of paint repair products that have matching materials. Mixing
materials from different manufacturers, or using inexpensive products, compromises the repair
quality.
An electric polisher with an adjustable rpm control set between 1,500 and 1,800 rpm is best for
polishing. When using a polisher, faster is not better. Too much polisher speed and too much
applied force can cause swirl marks or may even burn the paint.
Most swirl marks can be removed by using a foam polishing pad and polishing material. Use the
polisher at 1,500 to 1,800 rpm with a small amount of polishing material on the pad. Always begin
with the finest polishing material. If necessary, progress to the next coarser material only when the
fine materials are ineffective.
When polishing, work in small sections (approximately 24" x 24"). Avoid running the polishing pad
over edges of a body panel or body lines where the paint is more susceptible to burning through.
Let the cleaner do the work. Do not apply too much force! Forcing the polishing pad could cause
deep cuts into the paint and might damage the surface so badly that it would need to be repainted.
This additional procedure, after the polishing process described above, is important to reduce any
chance of swirl marks, which show more on dark colors. When polishing is completed, use the
same type of foam polishing pad on a random orbital polisher. Apply the finest polishing material to
a 24" x 24" work area. Start the polisher, and make three to four passes over the work area.
Remove the glaze residue with a cotton terry cloth or soft flannel cloth.
Wet Sanding
This process is used to repair scratches and acid rain damage deeper than 0.2 mil. The object is to
remove as little paint material as possible. When wet sanding, stop frequently and dry the work
area. This will allow you to see if the wet sanding has removed the damage.
Start by soaking a 1500 or 2000 grit wet/dry sanding paper in water for 15 minutes. Wrap the
soaked wet/dry sanding paper around a soft sanding pad. Lightly sand in one direction across (90
degrees) the scratched surface to highlight the surface damage. Flush the area with clean water.
To remove any sanding scratches left by the wet sanding process, use a foam polishing pad and a
polishing material. Refer to Removing Swirl Marks.
Final Inspection
When the polishing process is done, the paint surface may look perfect, but residue can hide very
fine scratches that will become apparent after a few washings. This is especially true for darker
colors.
Start the final inspection by spraying a 50/50 solution of isopropyl alcohol and water on the work
area and then wiping it dry.
NOTE: Avoid spraying the solution on any unpainted plastic parts such as taillights, turn signal
lenses, reflectors, etc. The solution can cause cracking.
Inspect the repaired area, and repeat the polishing process if necessary. Finish the inspection by
waxing the completed vehicle with a high quality wax. Use the wax recommended by the paint
repair supplies manufacturer you have chosen.
Preventive Maintenance
Avoiding scratches and dents while the vehicle is in your dealership inventory requires some
preventive maintenance. To help reduce the occurrence of scratches and dents, follow these
recommendations: -
Park vehicles far enough apart to prevent door dents and dings.
- Leave the exterior shipping protection on the vehicle until it is ready to be sold.
- Wash the vehicles with deionized water, soap, and a wash mitt at least once a week.
NOTE: Using a wash mitt will remove any residual dirt from the paint surface. If a wash mitt is not
used, the residual dirt on the painted surface will scratch the paint when the surface is dried with a
chamois or towel.
Model Applicable To
Through
'88 VIN
PRELUDE JC077545
89-006
BODY Issue Date
When closed forcefully, the trunk lid may hit the rear panel, chipping the paint, on the lower corners
of the trunk lid.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install new trunk lid edge cushions and pack the trunk weatherstrip with additional cushioning
material.
NOTE: Use the rubber windshield dam listed under PARTS INFORMATION to pack the
weatherstrip.
PROCEDURE
1. Open the trunk lid and remove the trunk weatherstrip from the rear edge of the trunk opening.
2. Peel the release paper off of the cushioning material. Cut the cushion exactly in half and soak
the pieces in soapy water or tire lubricant.
3. Insert a piece of small-gauge wire through the outer 3 mm vent hole on the right side of the trunk
weatherstrip. Feed the wire through the weatherstrip, toward the center of the car, then out the right
5 mm vent hole as shown.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Paint: > 89006 > Feb > 89 > Paint - Chips On Trunk Corners > Page
3572
4. Tie the end of the wire to the end of one of the cushions.
5. Use the wire to pull the cushion through the 5 mm hole, over to the 3 mm hole. Do not pull the
cushion out through the 3 mm hole.
6. Remove the wire from the cushion. Cut off any excess cushion and tuck the end of the cushion
inside the 5 mm hole.
7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 for the left side, then reinstall the weatherstrip.
8. Replace the original trunk lid edge cushions with the ones listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
9. Adjust the height of the edge cushions to 17 mm and close the trunk lid. The trunk lid should fit
flush with all adjacent body surfaces. If not, adjust the trunk striker and the edge cushions as
shown.
PARTS INFORMATION
Paint formulations are determined by each paint company. For questions regarding formulas or
matching, contact your local paint distributor or the paint company's nearest regional office. The
original paint is acrylic enamel. Honda paint codes which include "M" or "P" are metallic colors.
Paint codes that end with -3 and -4 are for Ohio and Canada colors, respectively. NOTE: (1)
clear coat is applied over the color coat.
(2) small amount of color is mixed with a clear coat and applied over the color coat.
Paint: All Technical Service Bulletins Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage
99-062
(Supersedes 99-062, dated October 12, 1999 to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
SYMPTOM
The exterior paint surface does not feel smooth after the vehicle is washed.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Environmental fallout (airborne metallic particles, tree sap, paint overspray, road tar, insect residue,
etc.) has adhered to the exterior paint surface.
NOTE:
This form of paint damage should not be confused with acid rain damage. Unlike environmental
fallout damage, acid rain damage appears on the paint surface as pits or water spots-possibly
black or brown in the center-which may feel smooth to the touch.
PREVENTION
The shipping wax/wrap guard applied to the vehicle at the factory provides the best protection for
the paint finish from environmental fallout and acid rain damage. American Honda strongly
recommends that you leave the shipping wax/wrap guard on the vehicle for as long as possible.
Your dealership is responsible for maintaining the vehicle's finish after the shipping wax/ wrap
guard is removed.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Select a product line from one of the manufacturers listed in REQUIRED MATERIALS to clean the
paint surface and to wax it after cleaning. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions for
each of the products you use.
REQUIRED MATERIALS
In warranty: American Honda will reimburse for this repair only under these conditions:
*NOTE:
When submitting the claim, make sure you enter the vehicle's date of receipt in the customer
contention comment section. The claim will be rejected without this information.*
REPAIR PROCEDURE
2. Tear off a piece of clay. Shape the piece with your hands into a flat disk about 3 inches in
diameter.
3. Spray a 2-to 3-square-foot area of the affected panel with the manufacturer's lubricant.
4. Clean a 1-square-foot section of the sprayed area by rubbing it with the clay.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > 99-062 > Jan > 07 > Paint - Industrial Fallout Paint Damage >
Page 3584
5. Check your work by running your fingers over the cleaned and lubricated surface to feel for any
remaining contamination.
^ If you feel any particles on the cleaned surface fold the clay in half, knead it back into a disk
shape, clean the section again, and recheck your work.
^ If the cleaned surface feels smooth, fold the clay in half, knead it back into a disk shape, and go
to step 6.
NOTE:
You must carefully fold and knead the clay to keep a clean side next to the paint surface. Never
use clay that has fallen on the ground. Any small pieces of dirt or sand that imbed in the clay will
scratch the paint surface. If the clay falls on the ground, discard it and get a fresh piece.
6. Clean the remaining sections of the sprayed area (repeat steps 4 and 5).
7. Wipe the lubricant from all the cleaned sections with a clean terry cloth towel.
8. Clean the rest of the affected panel and any additional panels that need cleaning (repeat steps 3
thru 7).
9. Apply the manufacturer's recommended wax or glaze to all the cleaned panels.
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > 97-028 > Mar > 97 > Body - Minor Paint Finish Repair
Technical Service Bulletin # 97-028 Date: 970331
97-028
The first thing a new vehicle owner sees when he or she takes delivery of a new vehicle is the paint
finish. Therefore, making the vehicle look good is very important. However, customer feedback has
pointed out that many new vehicles are delivered with scratches and swirl marks. This is especially
true with dark colored vehicles.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Repair the paint finish using the tools, supplies, and procedures
recommended for the type of damage (scratches, swirl marks, etc.) and for the color of the paint
RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND SUPPLIES To repair the paint finish, you should use these tools
and supplies:
* ETG (Electronic Thickness Gauge), or equivalent These mil gauges are commercially available.
They can be purchased from Pro Motorcar Products at 800-334-2843.
Supplies -
While we cannot recommend one manufacturer over another, any of the manufacturers listed here
can provide you with quality products through their nationwide distributor network. Contact them for
your paint repair supply needs, choose one, and then use the system of only that one
manufacturer. If you need to know how to use the products, ask the manufacturer for training.
3M Automotive Trades Division 22100 Telegraph Road P.O. Box 358 Southfield, MI 48037-0358
Phone Number: 800-521-8180 Ext. 6890
Repair Procedure
The following procedures may not apply to all conditions or colors. Use the procedure that best
suits the condition and color of the vehicle you're
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > 97-028 > Mar > 97 > Body - Minor Paint Finish Repair > Page
3589
repairing.
Repairing and Polishing the Painted Surface
The goal of a minor paint repair is to correct the damage to the upper layer of the painted surface.
This is done by removing a thin layer of paint (no more than 0.5 mil) and then restoring the luster
by polishing the repaired surface. A quick way to determine the depth of a scratch in the paint is to
run your fingernail across the scratch. If your fingernail catches on the scratch, the area will need to
be wet sanded and polished.
When doing scratch or swirl mark repairs, use only quality products from one manufacturer. Each
manufacturer has its own set of paint repair products that have matching materials. Mixing
materials from different manufacturers, or using inexpensive products, compromises the repair
quality.
An electric polisher with an adjustable rpm control set between 1,500 and 1,800 rpm is best for
polishing. When using a polisher, faster is not better. Too much polisher speed and too much
applied force can cause swirl marks or may even burn the paint.
Most swirl marks can be removed by using a foam polishing pad and polishing material. Use the
polisher at 1,500 to 1,800 rpm with a small amount of polishing material on the pad. Always begin
with the finest polishing material. If necessary, progress to the next coarser material only when the
fine materials are ineffective.
When polishing, work in small sections (approximately 24" x 24"). Avoid running the polishing pad
over edges of a body panel or body lines where the paint is more susceptible to burning through.
Let the cleaner do the work. Do not apply too much force! Forcing the polishing pad could cause
deep cuts into the paint and might damage the surface so badly that it would need to be repainted.
This additional procedure, after the polishing process described above, is important to reduce any
chance of swirl marks, which show more on dark colors. When polishing is completed, use the
same type of foam polishing pad on a random orbital polisher. Apply the finest polishing material to
a 24" x 24" work area. Start the polisher, and make three to four passes over the work area.
Remove the glaze residue with a cotton terry cloth or soft flannel cloth.
Wet Sanding
This process is used to repair scratches and acid rain damage deeper than 0.2 mil. The object is to
remove as little paint material as possible. When wet sanding, stop frequently and dry the work
area. This will allow you to see if the wet sanding has removed the damage.
Start by soaking a 1500 or 2000 grit wet/dry sanding paper in water for 15 minutes. Wrap the
soaked wet/dry sanding paper around a soft sanding pad. Lightly sand in one direction across (90
degrees) the scratched surface to highlight the surface damage. Flush the area with clean water.
To remove any sanding scratches left by the wet sanding process, use a foam polishing pad and a
polishing material. Refer to Removing Swirl Marks.
Final Inspection
When the polishing process is done, the paint surface may look perfect, but residue can hide very
fine scratches that will become apparent after a few washings. This is especially true for darker
colors.
Start the final inspection by spraying a 50/50 solution of isopropyl alcohol and water on the work
area and then wiping it dry.
NOTE: Avoid spraying the solution on any unpainted plastic parts such as taillights, turn signal
lenses, reflectors, etc. The solution can cause cracking.
Inspect the repaired area, and repeat the polishing process if necessary. Finish the inspection by
waxing the completed vehicle with a high quality wax. Use the wax recommended by the paint
repair supplies manufacturer you have chosen.
Preventive Maintenance
Avoiding scratches and dents while the vehicle is in your dealership inventory requires some
preventive maintenance. To help reduce the occurrence of scratches and dents, follow these
recommendations: -
Park vehicles far enough apart to prevent door dents and dings.
- Leave the exterior shipping protection on the vehicle until it is ready to be sold.
- Wash the vehicles with deionized water, soap, and a wash mitt at least once a week.
NOTE: Using a wash mitt will remove any residual dirt from the paint surface. If a wash mitt is not
used, the residual dirt on the painted surface will scratch the paint when the surface is dried with a
chamois or towel.
Paint formulations are determined by each paint company. For questions regarding formulas or
matching, contact your local paint distributor or the paint company's nearest regional office. The
original paint is acrylic enamel. Honda paint codes which include "M" or "P" are metallic colors.
Paint codes that end with -3 and -4 are for Ohio and Canada colors, respectively. NOTE: (1)
clear coat is applied over the color coat.
(2) small amount of color is mixed with a clear coat and applied over the color coat.
Paint: By Symptom
Model Applicable To
Through
'88 VIN
PRELUDE JC077545
File Under Bulletin No.
89-006
When closed forcefully, the trunk lid may hit the rear panel, chipping the paint, on the lower corners
of the trunk lid.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install new trunk lid edge cushions and pack the trunk weatherstrip with additional cushioning
material.
NOTE: Use the rubber windshield dam listed under PARTS INFORMATION to pack the
weatherstrip.
PROCEDURE
1. Open the trunk lid and remove the trunk weatherstrip from the rear edge of the trunk opening.
2. Peel the release paper off of the cushioning material. Cut the cushion exactly in half and soak
the pieces in soapy water or tire lubricant.
3. Insert a piece of small-gauge wire through the outer 3 mm vent hole on the right side of the trunk
weatherstrip. Feed the wire through the weatherstrip, toward the center of the car, then out the right
5 mm vent hole as shown.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > Page 3595
4. Tie the end of the wire to the end of one of the cushions.
5. Use the wire to pull the cushion through the 5 mm hole, over to the 3 mm hole. Do not pull the
cushion out through the 3 mm hole.
6. Remove the wire from the cushion. Cut off any excess cushion and tuck the end of the cushion
inside the 5 mm hole.
7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 for the left side, then reinstall the weatherstrip.
8. Replace the original trunk lid edge cushions with the ones listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
9. Adjust the height of the edge cushions to 17 mm and close the trunk lid. The trunk lid should fit
flush with all adjacent body surfaces. If not, adjust the trunk striker and the edge cushions as
shown.
PARTS INFORMATION
NOTE: The flat rate time does not include paint repair. Use normal warranty procedures for the
paint repair.
Model Applicable To
Through
'88 VIN
PRELUDE JC077545
89-006
When closed forcefully, the trunk lid may hit the rear panel, chipping the paint, on the lower corners
of the trunk lid.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install new trunk lid edge cushions and pack the trunk weatherstrip with additional cushioning
material.
NOTE: Use the rubber windshield dam listed under PARTS INFORMATION to pack the
weatherstrip.
PROCEDURE
1. Open the trunk lid and remove the trunk weatherstrip from the rear edge of the trunk opening.
2. Peel the release paper off of the cushioning material. Cut the cushion exactly in half and soak
the pieces in soapy water or tire lubricant.
3. Insert a piece of small-gauge wire through the outer 3 mm vent hole on the right side of the trunk
weatherstrip. Feed the wire through the weatherstrip, toward the center of the car, then out the right
5 mm vent hole as shown.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Paint: > Page 3597
4. Tie the end of the wire to the end of one of the cushions.
5. Use the wire to pull the cushion through the 5 mm hole, over to the 3 mm hole. Do not pull the
cushion out through the 3 mm hole.
6. Remove the wire from the cushion. Cut off any excess cushion and tuck the end of the cushion
inside the 5 mm hole.
7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 for the left side, then reinstall the weatherstrip.
8. Replace the original trunk lid edge cushions with the ones listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
9. Adjust the height of the edge cushions to 17 mm and close the trunk lid. The trunk lid should fit
flush with all adjacent body surfaces. If not, adjust the trunk striker and the edge cushions as
shown.
PARTS INFORMATION
NOTE: The flat rate time does not include paint repair. Use normal warranty procedures for the
paint repair.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Control Module
> Component Information > Locations
Body Components.
Inside RH Door
Applicable to: 1988 Prelude
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Sunroof/Moonroof Relay <-->
[Sunroof / Moonroof Relay] > Component Information > Locations
Sunroof/Moonroof Relay: Locations
A garment steamer and a stiff-bristle brush make a great team for removing those nasty wrinkles,
lines, or impressions in fabric upholstery. You can buy an inexpensive, small, hand-held garment/
fabric steamer from a number of different manufacturers. Some of these units even come with a
handy built-in brush.
Once you've got your steamer, follow the manufacturer's instructions to get it ready for use. Then
apply a generous amount of steam to the problem area. Keep the steamer moving slowly over the
area until it's hot and moist.
A Word of Caution: Go easy on the steam if you're cleaning the front passenger seat in a vehicle
with side airbags. Moisture can adversely affect or damage the OPDS sensors in the seatback.
While the area is hot and moist, use a stiff-bristle brush, or the built-in brush if your steamer has
one, to work the fabric back and forth and up and down. Stubborn areas might need more steam
and brushing, so be patient and stay with it. It's worth the effort.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Track > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Recalls for Seat Track: > NHTSA89V093000 > Jun > 89 > Recall 89V093000: Rear Inboard Seat Anchorage Bracket
Seat Track: Recalls Recall 89V093000: Rear Inboard Seat Anchorage Bracket
THE REAR INBOARD SEAT ANCHORAGE BRACKET FOR THE FRONT SEATS MAY NOT
WITHSTAND THE FORCE REQUIRED BY FMVSS 207.
BRACKET FAILURE COULD RESULT IN SEAT BECOMING LOOSE; VEHICLES WOULD NOT
COMPLY WITH FMVSS 207.
BRACKET FAILURE COULD RESULT IN SEAT BECOMING LOOSE; VEHICLES WOULD NOT
COMPLY WITH FMVSS 207.
Model Applicable To
PRELUDE 1988-1991
ACCORD 1990-1991
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
^ Improperly seated grommets and/or excessive sealer under the grommet flanges.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Have an assistant direct water at the adjoining points of the "A" pillar, windshield and the fender.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Unibody > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 91023 > Jul > 91 > Body - Kick Panel Water Leak > Page 3639
2. Remove the interior kick panel and check for water that may be entering from any of the
following points:
^ Sunroof drain tube grommet (or plug for vehicles without a sunroof).
3. Raise the car on a lift; remove the screws holding the rear section of the inner liner.
5. Check under the grommet flange. Scrape the area with a putty knife to remove any high spots
caused by excessive adhesive.
6. Reinstall the grommet or plug. Apply 3M Flexiclear Seam Sealer (3M P/N 08405).
8. Clean the area of any body wax or sound deadening material with 3M General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner (3M P/N 08984).
9. Seal three inches in both directions from suspected leaks with 3M Brushable Seam Sealer (3M
P/N 08656) or Ultra-Pro Brushable Seam Sealer (1/10 gal. cartridges 3M P/N 08655).
10. After sealer has been allowed to set, repeat step 1 to recheck for leaks.
MATERIALS INFORMATION:
Seam Sealer
Adhesive Cleaner
Seam Sealer
In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty
expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must
request consideration, and get the DSM's decision, before starting work.
07-008
February 2, 2007
BACKGROUND
Honda automobiles and trucks are built to precise standards so that they can perform well under
many situations. For example, they offer a firm responsive ride yet yield when necessary under the
forces of a collision to help protect the vehicle occupants.
When body repairs are necessary, Honda recommends that any repairs be performed by an
experienced professional, using the Honda body repair manual, and that component replacement
be accomplished along factory seams. Failure to do so can result in a number of problems,
including improperly fitting parts, noises, tire wear, and most importantly, changes in vehicle
dynamics and occupant protection in a subsequent crash.
In particular, Honda strongly recommends against the process of joining cut pieces from separate
vehicle~commonly referred to as clipping. This is not an authorized Honda repair method. Any
problem with other components resulting from such improper vehicle repairs is not covered under
Honda's factory or extended warranties.
Also, because what's in a part is as important as how it looks, Honda strongly recommends the use
of Honda Genuine repair parts. The material used to create the part, such as high-strength steel,
and the subtle shapes of the part, determine how it will perform in normal operation or in a
subsequent collision. Using Honda Genuine repair parts helps return the vehicle to its pre-crash
condition.
ADHESIVES/WELDING
Using adhesives in place of welding for component replacement is not an authorized Honda repair
method. It is important to repair at factory seams using the same procedure as the factory
assembly process except where specified otherwise in the Honda body repair manual. The door
skin is welded at the top and is glued around the crimp. Each body repair manual states that if the
reinforcement in the door is damaged, the complete door must be replaced.
NOTE:
Because they are made of high-strength steel, door and bumper reinforcements must not be
repaired or straightened.
INFORMATION RESOURCES
Extensive research and development goes into every Honda to provide safety for those inside as
well as outside the vehicle. Therefore, it is critical that collision repair facilities do not change a
vehicle during collision repair. Please visit the following websites for further information about
Honda safety:
^ world.honda.com/safety, and
^ world.honda.com/news/2003/4030904_2.html Body repair manuals are available for every new
Honda model series that is sold in the U.S. Each manual provides instructions for proper repair
procedures, and drawings that show where each factory seam and weld on the vehicle is located.
In a few instances, the manual also indicates where it is acceptable to cut panels and sections
other than at factory seams.
Body repair manuals can be purchased from Helm, Inc. using one of these methods:
^ Go online at www.helminc.com
Collision repair facilities can also subscribe to all manuals at www. serviceexpress.honda.com.
Dealers can log onto ISIS and view body repair manuals in the Search By Publication section.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Unibody > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 07-008 > Feb > 07 > Body - Unibody Repair Guidelines > Page 3646
Disclaimer
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Unibody > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 91023 > Jul > 91 > Body - Kick Panel Water Leak
Unibody: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Kick Panel Water Leak
Model Applicable To
PRELUDE 1988-1991
ACCORD 1990-1991
SYMPTOM
PROBABLE CAUSE
^ Improperly seated grommets and/or excessive sealer under the grommet flanges.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Have an assistant direct water at the adjoining points of the "A" pillar, windshield and the fender.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Unibody > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 91023 > Jul > 91 > Body - Kick Panel Water Leak > Page 3651
2. Remove the interior kick panel and check for water that may be entering from any of the
following points:
^ Sunroof drain tube grommet (or plug for vehicles without a sunroof).
3. Raise the car on a lift; remove the screws holding the rear section of the inner liner.
5. Check under the grommet flange. Scrape the area with a putty knife to remove any high spots
caused by excessive adhesive.
6. Reinstall the grommet or plug. Apply 3M Flexiclear Seam Sealer (3M P/N 08405).
8. Clean the area of any body wax or sound deadening material with 3M General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner (3M P/N 08984).
9. Seal three inches in both directions from suspected leaks with 3M Brushable Seam Sealer (3M
P/N 08656) or Ultra-Pro Brushable Seam Sealer (1/10 gal. cartridges 3M P/N 08655).
10. After sealer has been allowed to set, repeat step 1 to recheck for leaks.
MATERIALS INFORMATION:
Seam Sealer
Adhesive Cleaner
Seam Sealer
In warranty: The normal warranty applies. Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty
expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must
request consideration, and get the DSM's decision, before starting work.
Stabilizer Bushing: All Technical Service Bulletins Suspension - Noise From Front or Rear
Applicable To ALL
SYMPTOM
A "grunting" noise coming from either the front or rear suspension when driving over uneven road
surfaces. This noise is especially noticeable on cold weather start-ups.
PROBABLE CAUSE
"Stick-slip" friction (stiction) between the stabilizer bar and its mounting bushing.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Remove the mounting bolts and the two front and two rear stabilizer bar bushings.
2. Remove all traces of grease or silicone from the stabilizer bar in the area of the bushing.
3. Replace the stabilizer bar bushings and mounting bolts with the parts listed under Parts
Information.
H/C 3341542
H/C 3418852
H/C 0672915
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
H/C 3341542
H/C 3418852
H/C 0672915
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
OCT 2, '87
PROBABLE CAUSE
The problem may result from one or more causes listed below:
^ Damaged sealant at the outer and inner wheel housing seam. And improperly sealed rear wheel
housing seam and damper unit.
^ Damaged sealant at the rear window corners. And unsealed trunk-side rear fender and rear panel
seams.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Check the car's VIN, then select the appropriate corrective action(s) from the chart below.
PARTS INFORMATION
TIME P/N
04741-SBO-672ZZ
CORRECTIVE ACTION A
1. From inside the trunk, remove the back-up light and taillight maintenance lids.
2. Disconnect the 2-P connector from behind each back-up light, and the 8-P connector from
behind each taillight.
3. Remove the 8 mount nuts from each back-up light, and the 6 mount nuts from each taillight.
Then, remove the back-up lights, taillights, and gaskets.
1. Remove the protective rubber seal from the outer and inner wheel housing seam.
3. Apply a bead of 3M Flexiclear Body Sealer (P/N 08405) along the seam.
4. After the sealer has dried, reinstall the protective rubber seal.
5. Clean the rear wheel housing and damper unit seal area so its free of any dirt.
6. Apply a bead of 3M Flexiclear Body Sealer (P/N 08405) around the seam.
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Customer Interest for Weatherstrip: > 87023 > Oct > 87 > Body - Water Leaks Into Trunk Area > Page 3675
CORRECTIVE ACTION C
1. Remove the 6 plastic snaps from the rear wheel housing lining and the first 2 screws from the
rear panel garnish.
2. From the trunk area, insert the sunroof drain hose completely into its valve.
CORRECTIVE ACTION D
1. Remove the 7 screws from the lower molding and remove it.
2. Remove the side, corner, and upper moldings with a molding clip release tool (see p. 20-13 of
the '88 Prelude Service Manual).
3. Clean the 4 corners with alcohol, making sure all dirt is removed.
6. Remove the 6 plastic snaps from the rear wheel housing lining and the first 2 screws from the
rear panel garnish.
7. From the trunk side, clean the rear fender and panel seam area with alcohol; then apply a bead
of 3M Flexiclear Body Sealer (P/N 08405) to the seam.
Note: make sure the seam is completely filled and sealer overlaps (about 1 cm) onto the rear
fender and panel.
OCT 2, '87
PROBABLE CAUSE
The problem may result from one or more causes listed below:
^ Damaged sealant at the outer and inner wheel housing seam. And improperly sealed rear wheel
housing seam and damper unit.
^ Damaged sealant at the rear window corners. And unsealed trunk-side rear fender and rear panel
seams.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Check the car's VIN, then select the appropriate corrective action(s) from the chart below.
PARTS INFORMATION
TIME P/N
04741-SBO-672ZZ
CORRECTIVE ACTION A
1. From inside the trunk, remove the back-up light and taillight maintenance lids.
2. Disconnect the 2-P connector from behind each back-up light, and the 8-P connector from
behind each taillight.
3. Remove the 8 mount nuts from each back-up light, and the 6 mount nuts from each taillight.
Then, remove the back-up lights, taillights, and gaskets.
1. Remove the protective rubber seal from the outer and inner wheel housing seam.
3. Apply a bead of 3M Flexiclear Body Sealer (P/N 08405) along the seam.
4. After the sealer has dried, reinstall the protective rubber seal.
5. Clean the rear wheel housing and damper unit seal area so its free of any dirt.
6. Apply a bead of 3M Flexiclear Body Sealer (P/N 08405) around the seam.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Weatherstrip: > 87023 > Oct > 87 > Body - Water Leaks Into Trunk Area > Page 3684
CORRECTIVE ACTION C
1. Remove the 6 plastic snaps from the rear wheel housing lining and the first 2 screws from the
rear panel garnish.
2. From the trunk area, insert the sunroof drain hose completely into its valve.
CORRECTIVE ACTION D
1. Remove the 7 screws from the lower molding and remove it.
2. Remove the side, corner, and upper moldings with a molding clip release tool (see p. 20-13 of
the '88 Prelude Service Manual).
3. Clean the 4 corners with alcohol, making sure all dirt is removed.
6. Remove the 6 plastic snaps from the rear wheel housing lining and the first 2 screws from the
rear panel garnish.
7. From the trunk side, clean the rear fender and panel seam area with alcohol; then apply a bead
of 3M Flexiclear Body Sealer (P/N 08405) to the seam.
Note: make sure the seam is completely filled and sealer overlaps (about 1 cm) onto the rear
fender and panel.
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Warning Device] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3702
Ground Distribution Schematics
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Warning Device] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3703
Symbol Identification
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Warning Device] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3705
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Warning Device] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3706
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Warning Device] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3707
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Warning Device] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3714
Test Equipment
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Warning Device] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3715
Troubleshooting Precautions
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Warning Device] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3716
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Warning Device] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3717
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Warning Device] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3718
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Warning Device] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3719
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Warning Device] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3720
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Prior to performing test, check alternator belt tension and electrical connector for proper
installation.
1. Place ignition switch in the On position, the charge warning lamp should be illuminated. If charge
warning lamp is not illuminated, disconnect alternator electrical connector and connect a jumper
wire between terminal with white/blue wire and ground and note the following:
a. If warning lamp is still not illuminated, check for blown fuse, defective charge indicate lamp bulb
or open circuit in wiring (white/blue wire)
from warning lamp to voltage regulator or wiring (black/yellow wire) from warning lamp to fuse
panel. Also check wiring between fuel panel and ignition switch.
2. Start engine and allow to idle, the charge warning lamp should go off. If charge warning lamp
remains on, check for the following;
a. Check for blown fuse No. 37 in relay box located in engine compartment. b. Check for open
circuit in wiring (white/green wire) between alternator and engine compartment relay box. c. If fuse
and wiring are satisfactory, refer to ``Alternator and Regulator Test.''
3. Remove front console, then disconnect electrical connector from intergrated control unit, Fig. 4.
With engine operating, check charge indicator lamp and note the following:
a. If indicator lamp is now not illuminated, a short circuit in the integrated control unit is indicated. b.
On models less A/C, if lamp is still illuminated, a short circuit in wiring (white/blue wire) between
warning lamp and control unit is indicated. c. On models with A/C, proceed to step 4.
4. On models with A/C, remove glove compartment, then disconnect electrical connector from A/C
compressor control unit, Fig. 5. With engine operating, check charge indicator lamp and note the
following:
a. If lamp is now not illuminated, a short circuit in the A/C compressor control unit is indicated. b. If
lamp is still illuminated, a short circuit in wiring (white/blue wire) between control unit and indicator
lamp is indicated.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Cigarette Lighter - Switching Precautions
If your dealership removes the cigarette lighters from showroom cars, make sure the right lighter
gets back in the right car. If you put the wrong lighter in the wrong socket, the lighter may not stay
engaged when it's pushed in.
Almost all U.S. and Canadian-built Hondas use Casco lighters. The exceptions are the Civic Si and
EX, which use Stanley lighters. All Japanese-built models also use Stanley lighters.
Casco lighters are labeled on the barrel of the lighter. A Casco socket has a double metal band at
its base inside.
Stanley lighters are labeled on the bezel at the base of the handle. A Stanley socket has a single
metal band at its base inside.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Cigarette Lighter - Switching Precautions > Page 3741
Model
ALL Applicable To
JAN 9, '87 Cigarette Lighter Identification Some dealerships remove the cigarette lighter in cars on
showroom floors or car lots until the car is prepared for delivery to the customer. Honda cigarette
lighters are made by one of two manufacturers, and care must be taken not to mix cigarette lighters
from one manufacturer with sockets from the other manufacturer.
Accords and Civics made in Japan are equipped with cigarette lighters manufactured by Stanley,
while those vehicles made in the USA are equipped with cigarette lighters manufactured by Casco.
If a Stanley cigarette lighter is inserted into a Casco socket, the cigarette lighter/interior light fuse
will blow. Pushing the lighter further into the socket will also jam it in the socket, requiring removal
of the socket.
If a Casco cigarette lighter is inserted into a Stanley socket, the lighter will not stay depressed.
Before inserting the cigarette lighter into the socket, identify the manufacturer of the lighter
assembly by either inspecting the lighter and socket or the VIN of the car. The first three characters
of the VIN of a car manufactured in the USA are "1HG."
Stanley lighters have "STANLEY" marked clearly on the base of the black handle of the cigarette
lighter. A Stanley socket has a single metal band at its base inside.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Cigarette Lighter - Switching Precautions > Page 3742
Casco lighters have "CASCO" marked clearly on the barrel of the cigarette lighter. A Casco socket
has a double metal band at its base inside. If your dealership removes the cigarette lighters on
showroom or lot cars, check that the cigarette lighter matches the socket prior to delivery to the
customer.
Model
'88-91 PRELUDE
Applicable To ALL
PROBLEM
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the clock case with the parts listed in PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Identify the type of clock in the car by looking for a logo on the clock case behind the clock reset
cover. The Nippon Seiki clock has NS in the lower left hand corner. The Rhythm clock has no
identification mark on the clock case. Order the appropriate brand and color of clock case needed
(see PARTS INFORMATION).
2. Carefully pry the clock out of the dashboard, then disconnect the 4-P connector from the clock.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clock: > 92002 > Jun > 92 > Instruments - Broken Clock Reset Cover >
Page 3751
3. Pry up on the lock tabs to release the metal clips, then slide the clips off the rear housing.
4. Carefully lift up on the four plastic tabs holding the clock backing to the clock case.
5. Remove the rear housing and circuit board from the case.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clock: > 92002 > Jun > 92 > Instruments - Broken Clock Reset Cover >
Page 3752
6. Remove the reset buttons from the old clock case and install them into the new one.
7. Install the circuit board and rear housing onto the new clock case. Slide the metal clips onto the
rear housing, making sure the lock tabs "click" into place.
8. Reconnect the 4-P connector, then install the clock in the dashboard and set the time.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Clock: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Broken Clock Reset Cover
Model
'88-91 PRELUDE
Applicable To ALL
PROBLEM
Replace the clock case with the parts listed in PARTS INFORMATION.
1. Identify the type of clock in the car by looking for a logo on the clock case behind the clock reset
cover. The Nippon Seiki clock has NS in the lower left hand corner. The Rhythm clock has no
identification mark on the clock case. Order the appropriate brand and color of clock case needed
(see PARTS INFORMATION).
2. Carefully pry the clock out of the dashboard, then disconnect the 4-P connector from the clock.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clock: > 92002 > Jun > 92 > Instruments - Broken Clock
Reset Cover > Page 3759
3. Pry up on the lock tabs to release the metal clips, then slide the clips off the rear housing.
4. Carefully lift up on the four plastic tabs holding the clock backing to the clock case.
5. Remove the rear housing and circuit board from the case.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clock: > 92002 > Jun > 92 > Instruments - Broken Clock
Reset Cover > Page 3760
6. Remove the reset buttons from the old clock case and install them into the new one.
7. Install the circuit board and rear housing onto the new clock case. Slide the metal clips onto the
rear housing, making sure the lock tabs "click" into place.
8. Reconnect the 4-P connector, then install the clock in the dashboard and set the time.
PARTS INFORMATION
Out-of-warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
1. To remove the dashboard, first slide the seats back fully and remove the:
2. Disconnect the wire harnesses from the connector holder, and fuse box.
3. Disconnect the speedometer cable. 4. Remove the 6 screws and radio panel, then disconnect
the wire connectors and antenna cable.
8. Disconnect the connector and wire harnesses from heater control unit. 9. Remove the clock from
the top of the dashboard.
10. Lower the steering column. 11. Remove the dashboard mounting bolts. 12. Lift the dashboard
as you pull, so it will slide up and off the guide pin in the middle. Hold the dashboard from
underneath so it won't fall when it
REASSEMBLY NOTE:
- Make sure the dashboard fits onto the guide pin correctly.
- Before tightening the dashboard bolts, make sure the dashboard wires are not pinched, and that
the dashboard is not interfering with the heater control cable.
Circuit Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3771
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3772
Ground Distribution Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3773
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3775
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3776
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3777
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3780
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3781
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3782
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3783
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3784
Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3785
Troubleshooting Precautions
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3786
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3787
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3788
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3789
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3790
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3791
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3793
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3794
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3795
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door/Trunk Ajar Indicator/Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3797
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Measure resistance between connector pins on tank unit, that correspond to yellow/white and black
wires. Resistance should be:
E (empty) .............................................................................................................................................
................................................ 105-110 ohms 1/2 (half full) ................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 25.5-39.5 ohms F (full) .
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................................... 2-5 ohms
WARNING: Don't smoke or allow open flames in work area or around open fuel systems.
Removal
If equipped with a service reminder flag, the oil and oil filter service interval reminder flags will
activate after every 7500 miles of operation. To reset indicators, insert ignition key into slots below
indicator flags at lower right corner of instrument cluster. Push key in until reminder window
changes from Red to Green.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3816
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Service and Repair
If equipped with a service reminder flag, the oil and oil filter service interval reminder flags will
activate after every 7500 miles of operation. To reset indicators, insert ignition key into slots below
indicator flags at lower right corner of instrument cluster. Push key in until reminder window
changes from Red to Green.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Check Engine/PGM-FI Warning Lamp
<--> [Malfunction Indicator Lamp] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Check Engine/PGM-FI Warning Lamp: Testing and Inspection
The Check Engine/PGM-FI warning lamp should be illuminated for approximately 2 seconds after
the ignition switch is placed in the ON position as a bulb check. After approximately 2 seconds, the
lamp should go OFF. If lamp remains ON, a problem in the Programmed Fuel Injection (PGM-FI)
System is indicated and a code is stored in the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) memory. After
diagnosis and repair, the PGM-FI ECU memory can be cleared by disconnecting the battery
ground cable for approximately 10 seconds.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Specifications
Oil Pressure Switch: Specifications
Circuit Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3826
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3827
Ground Distribution Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3828
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3830
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3831
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3832
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3835
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3836
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3837
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3838
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3839
Test Equipment
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3840
Troubleshooting Precautions
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3841
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3842
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3843
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3844
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3845
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3846
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3848
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Switch <--> [Oil Pressure
Sender] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3849
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Remove the YEL/RED wire from the oil pressure switch. 2. There should be continuity between
the positive terminal and the engine (ground) with the engine stopped. There should be no
continuity when the
engine runs.
3. If the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level, then inspect the oil pump and pressure if
the oil level is correct.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3863
Fuse Details Schematics
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3864
Ground Distribution Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3865
Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3867
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3868
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3869
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3874
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3875
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3876
Test Equipment
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3877
Troubleshooting Precautions
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3878
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3879
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3880
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3881
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3882
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3883
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3886
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3887
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3889
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Seat Belt Reminder Lamp: Technical Service Bulletins Seat Belt Reminder Cover - Removal
Procedure
Removing the seat belt beeper/reminder tight cover from an '88-90 Prelude without breaking it is
tricky, but it can be done.
Slowly, gently pull the ftont of the cover away from the windshield, then down, while holding the
rear edge up against the light assembly. (If the rear edge comes down when you pull the front edge
down, the rear clips will break.) Once the front clips are released, slide the cover toward the
windshield to release the rear clips.
NOTE: If you're still unsuccessful (don't feet alone), the cover can be ordered separately.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Fuel Gauge Sender > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Measure resistance between connector pins on tank unit, that correspond to yellow/white and black
wires. Resistance should be:
E (empty) .............................................................................................................................................
................................................ 105-110 ohms 1/2 (half full) ................................................................
...................................................................................................................... 25.5-39.5 ohms F (full) .
..............................................................................................................................................................
........................................... 2-5 ohms
WARNING: Don't smoke or allow open flames in work area or around open fuel systems.
Removal
Issue Date OCT 28, '88 Prelude Si Speedometer (Supersedes 88-021, dated July 15,1988)
SYMPTOM
There have been some customer comments about speedometers being too "optimistic". In other
words, the speed indicated is faster then the speed at which the vehicle is actually traveling.
NOTE: The odometer is a mechanical fixed direct drive system, while the speedometer is an
electronic instrument which requires factory calibration. The discrepancy in the speedometer
reading will not affect the odometer accuracy.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the speedometer with the new part listed under PARTS INFORMATION. See pages 23-97
to 23-99 of the '88 Prelude Service Manual for replacement procedure.
PARTS INFORMATION
Issue Date OCT 28, '88 Prelude Si Speedometer (Supersedes 88-021, dated July 15,1988)
SYMPTOM
There have been some customer comments about speedometers being too "optimistic". In other
words, the speed indicated is faster then the speed at which the vehicle is actually traveling.
NOTE: The odometer is a mechanical fixed direct drive system, while the speedometer is an
electronic instrument which requires factory calibration. The discrepancy in the speedometer
reading will not affect the odometer accuracy.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the speedometer with the new part listed under PARTS INFORMATION. See pages 23-97
to 23-99 of the '88 Prelude Service Manual for replacement procedure.
PARTS INFORMATION
1. Remove the gauge assembly from the dashboard. 2. Connect the voltmeter positive probe to the
BLK/YEL terminal and the negative probe to the BLK terminal of the 7-P (YEL) connector with the
3. Check voltage between the WHT/BLU terminal of the 7-P (YEL) connector and body ground with
the ignition switch ON.
There should be about 5 Volts.
^ If the voltage is not specified, check for an open in the WHT/BLU wire.
4. Connect the 7-P (YEL) connector to the speed sensor amplifier. 5. Connect the voltmeter
positive probe to the WHT/BLU terminal and the negative probe to the BLK terminal. 6. Insert a
pencil into the speedometer cable connector socket and turn it with the ignition switch ON. There
should be 0-5-0-5 Volts repeatedly.
NOTE: Be careful not to pinch the wires when installing the gauge assembly.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Coolant Temperature Gauge <-->
[Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Coolant Temperature Gauge: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Coolant Temperature Gauge <-->
[Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3936
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Coolant Temperature Gauge <-->
[Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3938
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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[Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3939
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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[Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3940
Test Equipment
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[Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3941
Troubleshooting Precautions
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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[Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3942
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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[Temperature Gauge] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3944
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF, then disconnect the RED wire from the coolant
temperature gauge sender and ground it with a jumper wire. 2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
Check that the pointer of the coolant temperature gauge starts moving toward "H" mark.
CAUTION: Turn the ignition switch OFF before the pointer reaches "H" mark on the gauge dial.
Failure to turn the ignition OFF quickly enough may cause damage to the gauge.
^ If the pointer of the gauge does not swing at all, check for:
Replace the coolant temperature gauge if the fuse and wiring are normal.
Temperature ........................................................................................................................................
.................................................... Resistance 56°C (133°F) [1] ...........................................................
............................................................................................................................... 142 Ohms
85-100°C (185-212°F) [1] ....................................................................................................................
.................................................... 49-32 Ohms
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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[Temperature Sensor (Gauge)] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3991
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
1. Disconnect the RED wire from the sender. 2. With the engine cold, use an ohmmeter to measure
resistance between the positive terminal and the engine (ground). 3. Check the temperature of the
coolant. 4. Run the engine and measure the change in resistance with the engine at operating
temperature (cooling fan comes on).
5. If obtained readings are substantially different from specifications above, replace the gauge
sender.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Transmission Shift Position Indicator Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4002
Fuse Details Schematics
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4003
Ground Distribution Schematics
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4004
Symbol Identification
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4006
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4007
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4008
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4012
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4013
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4014
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4015
Test Equipment
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4016
Troubleshooting Precautions
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4017
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4018
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4019
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4020
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Transmission Shift Position Indicator
Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4021
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4022
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4025
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4026
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
3. Reverse procedure to install, allowing 0.039-0.196 inch (1-5 mm) brake pedal free play.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Courtesy Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Information and Instructions > Page 4168
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Information and Instructions > Page 4169
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
3. Remove steering column upper and lower attaching screws, then remove covers.
4. On models equipped with cruise control, remove cruise control slip ring.
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Instructions > Page 4312
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4444
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Information and Instructions > Page 4446
Test Equipment
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4447
Troubleshooting Precautions
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4448
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4449
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4450
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4451
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4452
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4453
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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Information and Instructions > Page 4455
wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Parking Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4456
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4459
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Circuit Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4489
Fuse Details Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4490
Ground Distribution Schematics
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4491
Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4493
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4494
Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4495
STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4498
Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4499
Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4500
Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4501
Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4502
Test Equipment
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4503
Troubleshooting Precautions
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4504
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4505
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4506
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4507
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4508
Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4509
PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4512
Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4515
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
3. Reverse procedure to install, allowing 0.039-0.196 inch (1-5 mm) brake pedal free play.
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Headlight Switch: Service and Repair
3. Remove steering column upper and lower attaching screws, then remove covers.
4. On models equipped with cruise control, remove cruise control slip ring.
3. Remove steering column upper and lower attaching screws, then remove covers.
4. On models equipped with cruise control, remove cruise control slip ring.
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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and Instructions > Page 4557
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
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Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
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Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Circuit Schematics
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Fuse Details Schematics
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Ground Distribution Schematics
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Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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Key To Wiring Diagrams And Symbol Identification
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STATIC DISCHARGE
^ Discharge any static electrical charges before handling electronic parts by touching ground or
maintaining a ground connection to a bare skin area like the wrist.
^ Never touch the ECU connector pins, integrated circuit connector pins, or soldered components
on the ECU circuit board.
TESTING
^ When measuring voltage at the control unit harness connector, disconnect harness connector
with the ignition OFF, then turn ignition "ON" as necessary.
^ To prevent deforming control unit harness connectors, do not probe terminals directly. Instead,
insert a pin from the harness side and perform measurements through pin.
^ Before performing electrical welding (for instance, spot welding), disconnect the battery, climate
control, injection, cruise control, ECU and radio.
^ If temperatures may exceed 176°F (80°C), (example: infra-red spray booth), remove all ECU's.
^ Avoid getting water on any of the Fuel and Engine Control System Components.
NOTE: Before removing battery ground, access trouble codes. ECU memory will be erased if
ground cable is removed.
2. Fuel and Engine Control System wiring should be at least 4 inches away from ignition wires.
Battery Precautions
CAUTION: -
Never use a booster/starter which has a voltage rating above 12 volts to start engine.
- Always ensure the battery is properly connected to the vehicle prior to attempting to start engine.
- The battery contains acid and produces explosive gas (hydrogen). Avoid creating sparks near
battery.
1. Fully release connector locks prior to disconnecting. Ensure connectors are fully seated and all
insulators and shields are in place when reinstalling.
2. Never connect or disconnect electrical connections with the ignition switch in the "ON" position
unless specifically directed to do so in a test procedure.
Electrostatic Discharge
ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE
Electronic components used in automotive computers are designed to operate at very low voltages
(3-5V), and are extremely susceptible to damage caused by static electrical discharge. Voltages as
low as 12 volts can damage computer circuits. By comparison, it takes as much as 4,000 volts of
static discharge for a person to even feel the "ZAP", and there is no way of knowing whether the
charge is positive or negative in nature.
There are several ways in which a person can become statically charged. The most common
methods of charging are by friction and induction.
CHARGING BY FRICTION
Friction between organic materials (such as cotton or leather) and synthetics (such as plastic, vinyl,
or glass) will generate static charges as great as 25,000 volts. This can happen by simply sliding
across a car seat or by wearing a cotton shirt under a coat made of synthetic materials.
CHARGING BY INDUCTION
Charging by induction occurs when a person standing near a highly charged object (strong
magnetic field such as a transformer) momentarily touches ground. Like charges are displaced to
ground, leaving the person highly charged with opposite polarity.
PRECAUTIONS
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Static charges are gradually equalized by moisture in the air, but are retained much longer when
humidity is low. Use care when handling and testing electronic components.
Proper Tools and Testing Procedures
Use a digital volt/ohm meter (DVOM) with a minimum 10 mega-ohms internal impedance when
testing an ECU or related components, unless use of an analog meter is specified by a testing
procedure. Analog meters have low internal impedance and cause circuit "loading" in low voltage
circuits, resulting in inaccurate measurements and possible damage to components. Use of a
DVOM is necessary to obtain accurate measurements and avoid damaging low voltage ECU
circuits and components.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Always follow recommended testing procedures. Never ground or apply voltage to a circuit unless
specified by a testing procedure. ECU's provide a regulated constant low voltage source to some
circuits, which may require a minimum resistance (impedance) to operate. Directly grounding or
applying battery power to these circuits could damage the ECU and cause a system failure.
Meter Types
2. Disconnect the battery or connector so there is no power between the check points.
4. Connect the two leads of the meter to each of the check points.
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Diode Check
5. If the circuit or component has diodes, reverse the leads and check again. a. When contacting
the negative lead to the diode's positive side and the positive lead to the negative side, there
should be continuity. b. When connecting the two leads in reverse, there should not be continuity.
Meter Types
2. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect all loads for that circuit.
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Finding A Short Circuit
EXAMPLE
5. Connect and disconnect the components or connectors in the circuit while watching the test light.
a) The test light will come on when the shorted circuit or component is connected. b) The test light
will go off when the circuit or component is disconnected
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Five-Step Troubleshooting And Test Equipment
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Test Equipment
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Troubleshooting Precautions
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For A Short With A Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Short To Ground With A Self-Powered Test Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage Drop And Testing For A Short To Ground With A Test
Light Or DVOM
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Troubleshooting Tests: Testing For Voltage And Testing For Continuity
Voltage Check
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Meter Types
Voltage Check
EXAMPLE:
a) Ignition SW ON b) Ignition SW and SW 1 ON c) Ignition SW, SW1 and Relay ON (SW 2 OFF)
3. Set the volt meter set to the appropriate range for the circuit being tested. 4. Connect the
negative lead to a good ground point or the negative battery terminal, and connect the positive lead
to the connector or component
terminal.
NOTE: This test can be done with a test light if the circuit does not include sensitive electrical
components, i.e. electrical control units.
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PURPOSE
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure. The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the
electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits,
the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly.
However, it will not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in this vehicle: cycling and non-cycling.
There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same
as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker.
This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source is
removed. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device
has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current
passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,
therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the
circuit is effectively open. The EC13 will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from
its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
FUSES
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, Fig. 1. A fuse is a
device that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a
given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each
time a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The
standardized color identification and ratings are shown in Fig. 2. For service replacement,
non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse
for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal
current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located
within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse
The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device
in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly between the
Fuse Block and the system components.
Maxifuse
The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is
designed to protect cables, normally between the Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short
circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, the
Maxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly
longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance
of nuisance blows.
Minifuse
The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the
Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a Fuse Block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible
link, the fuse element is designed to protect
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wiring from a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a
fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by Maxifuses in future vehicles.
FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig.
3. Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity. Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in
wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible
link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a
10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to protect a 5 sq mm wire use a 2 sq mm link, Fig. 6.
Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link
appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link. Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R),
Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the
Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced
with the Expanded Duty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or
Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible
links.
^ Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
^ SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
^ Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation.
Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If
the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER
make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
SERVICE PROCEDURE
- To replace a damaged fusible link, Fig. 4, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link.
When connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely
in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see SPLICING COPPER WIRE. Use Crimp
and Seal splices whenever possible.
- To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire, Fig. 5.
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize. A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one
part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to
blow or a circuit breaker to open.
- For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (Refer to the splicing instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
The Splice Clip is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications
having special requirements such as moisture sealing.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). If the harness has a black
plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4600
Step 2: Cut the Wire
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire
later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust
splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors.
When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics
list wire size in metric units. See table, Fig. 6, for the commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be
used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the
equivalent metric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage. If you aren't sure of the wire
size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.
Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being
spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil
on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil. Overlap the
stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Fig. 7. Then,
center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.
- No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the
crimping tool extend beyond the edge of the clip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.
Step 5: Solder
Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Fig. 10. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Trunk Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4602
Fig. 11 Proper First Taping
Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to
duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape
may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in the
harness, Fig. 11. If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire
again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig. 12.
Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to
form a one to one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture scaling.
If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam
ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice
sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used to
form a one to one splice.
Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire
later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice
locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,
harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and
causing damage.
If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as
the original wire, see Fig. 6. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and
convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the
wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the
insulation is removed. Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be
spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or
cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper
tightly until the crimper handles open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the
proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of
the splice.
Using a suitable heat gun, apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the ECM and the distributor.
See Fig. 15 for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.
Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar
tape.
Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted
conductors after the splices have been made.
Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper
wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.
After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful
to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape. Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing
instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape, Fig.
17.
Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, Fig. 18. This tape will replace the section of the
jacket you removed to make the repair.
Repairing Connectors
The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The repair
procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack.
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors, Figs. 19 and 20. The
steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are
similar. Some connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
1. Remove any CPA (Connector Position Assurance) Locks. CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
2. Remove any TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the terminal
from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
3. Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
5. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
7. Insert the proper size pick straight into the connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
8. Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to
remove the terminal through the back of the connector. Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to
remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
9. Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
10. Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
11. Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
WEATHER PACK
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21.
2. Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the
connector.
3. Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.
4. Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector
cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
5. Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
6. Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary, see TERMINAL REPAIR.
Terminal Repair
1. Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
2. Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation removal
(Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
3. Remove insulation.
4. Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
7. Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around seal
and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
3. Remove steering column upper and lower attaching screws, then remove covers.
4. On models equipped with cruise control, remove cruise control slip ring.
Model Applicable To
JAN 1990
'88-89 Prelude Low Charge Rate (Supersedes 89-028, dated December 15, 1989) SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
- Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure. '88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the '88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element > Defogger Switch <--> [Heated Glass Element
Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Defogger Switch: > 89028 > Jan >
90 > Battery - Repeated Discharge > Page 4630
'88 Prelude:
'89 Prelude
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model
Bulletin No.
89-028
NOV 17,1989
SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
^ Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure.
'88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
4. Reinstall the power steering drive belt.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the'88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
PARTS INFORMATION
'88 Prelude:
Kit includes:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element > Defogger Switch <--> [Heated Glass Element
Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Defogger Switch: > 89028 > Nov >
89 > Battery - Discharges Repeatedly > Page 4635
* ACG Pulley 31141-PK1-305
* ACG Belt 31100-PK1-305
'89 Prelude
H/C:3378627
Kit includes:
Out-of-warranty: This repair, like any other repair performed after warranty expiration, may be
eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration,
and get the DSM's decision, before starting work. Operation number:
118105
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model Applicable To
JAN 1990
'88-89 Prelude Low Charge Rate (Supersedes 89-028, dated December 15, 1989) SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
- Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure. '88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the '88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element > Defogger Switch <--> [Heated Glass Element
Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Defogger Switch: >
89028 > Jan > 90 > Battery - Repeated Discharge > Page 4641
'88 Prelude:
'89 Prelude
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model
Bulletin No.
89-028
NOV 17,1989
SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
^ Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure.
'88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
4. Reinstall the power steering drive belt.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the'88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
PARTS INFORMATION
'88 Prelude:
Kit includes:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element > Defogger Switch <--> [Heated Glass Element
Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Defogger Switch: >
89028 > Nov > 89 > Battery - Discharges Repeatedly > Page 4646
* ACG Pulley 31141-PK1-305
* ACG Belt 31100-PK1-305
'89 Prelude
H/C:3378627
Kit includes:
Out-of-warranty: This repair, like any other repair performed after warranty expiration, may be
eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration,
and get the DSM's decision, before starting work. Operation number:
118105
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Body Components.
Inside LH Door
Applicable to: 1988 Prelude
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Power Window Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Power Window Relay: Locations
Model Applicable To
JAN 1990
'88-89 Prelude Low Charge Rate (Supersedes 89-028, dated December 15, 1989) SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
- Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure. '88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the '88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Defogger Switch <-->
[Heated Glass Element Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Defogger
Switch: > 89028 > Jan > 90 > Battery - Repeated Discharge > Page 4668
'88 Prelude:
'89 Prelude
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model
Bulletin No.
89-028
NOV 17,1989
SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
^ Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure.
'88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
4. Reinstall the power steering drive belt.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the'88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
PARTS INFORMATION
'88 Prelude:
Kit includes:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Defogger Switch <-->
[Heated Glass Element Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Defogger
Switch: > 89028 > Nov > 89 > Battery - Discharges Repeatedly > Page 4673
* ACG Pulley 31141-PK1-305
* ACG Belt 31100-PK1-305
'89 Prelude
H/C:3378627
Kit includes:
Out-of-warranty: This repair, like any other repair performed after warranty expiration, may be
eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration,
and get the DSM's decision, before starting work. Operation number:
118105
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model Applicable To
JAN 1990
'88-89 Prelude Low Charge Rate (Supersedes 89-028, dated December 15, 1989) SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
- Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure. '88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the '88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Defogger Switch <-->
[Heated Glass Element Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Defogger Switch: > 89028 > Jan > 90 > Battery - Repeated Discharge > Page 4679
'88 Prelude:
'89 Prelude
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Model
Bulletin No.
89-028
NOV 17,1989
SYMPTOM
Repeated battery discharge on cars used for short, low speed trips during which there is a high
electrical drain (A/C, headlights, and/or window defogger are continuously on).
CORRECTIVE ACTION
'88 Preludes:
^ Replace the rear defogger switch with the '89 type rear defogger/timer switch listed under Parts
Information. See page 23-147 of '89 Service Manual for replacement procedure.
'88 - 89 Preludes:
3. Replace the alternator pulley and belt with parts from the kit. Refer to page 23-82 of the '88
Prelude Service Manual or page 23-86 of the '89 Prelude Service Manual.
4. Reinstall the power steering drive belt.
NOTE: For alternator and power steering belt adjustment, see page 22-25 of the'88 Prelude
Service Manual or 22-29 of the '89 Manual.
7. Check the condition of the battery and service if necessary as indicated in Service Bulletin
88-023.
PARTS INFORMATION
'88 Prelude:
Kit includes:
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Defogger Switch <-->
[Heated Glass Element Switch] > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Defogger Switch: > 89028 > Nov > 89 > Battery - Discharges Repeatedly > Page 4684
* ACG Pulley 31141-PK1-305
* ACG Belt 31100-PK1-305
'89 Prelude
H/C:3378627
Kit includes:
Out-of-warranty: This repair, like any other repair performed after warranty expiration, may be
eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration,
and get the DSM's decision, before starting work. Operation number:
118105
Flat rate time: '88 Prelude 1.2 hours '89 Prelude 0.9 hours
Body Components.
Inside LH Door
Applicable to: 1988 Prelude
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Power Window Relay > Component Information > Locations
Power Window Relay: Locations
Window Regulator: Customer Interest Window - Noise While Raising or Lowering Window
Applicable To ALL
Creaking Noise From the Window Regulator (Supersedes 91-001, dated November 15, 1991)
SYMPTOM
A creaking sound from the regulator while raising or lowering the window.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the spiral spring with the new part listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
Using a flat-tip screwdriver, pry the hooked end of the spiral spring away from the regulator.
^ Slide the new spiral spring over the slit pin of the regulator. Use the flat-tip screwdriver to hook
the outer end of the spring to the locating tab.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Window Regulator: > 91001 > Nov > 92 > Window - Noise While Raising or
Lowering Window > Page 4701
3. Lubricate the plastic slides with White Lithium Grease (P/N 08732-0005). Apply multipurpose
grease to the spiral spring as shown. [NEW]
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Flat rate time: Accord & Civic: 0.8 hour Prelude: 1.0 hour
A: With passive restraint system add 0.2 hour (CRX, Accord Coupe, Accord 3-Door and Civic
3-Door)
PARTS INFORMATION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Window Regulator: > 91001 > Nov > 92 > Window - Noise While
Raising or Lowering Window
Window Regulator: All Technical Service Bulletins Window - Noise While Raising or Lowering
Window
Applicable To ALL
Creaking Noise From the Window Regulator (Supersedes 91-001, dated November 15, 1991)
SYMPTOM
A creaking sound from the regulator while raising or lowering the window.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the spiral spring with the new part listed under PARTS INFORMATION.
Using a flat-tip screwdriver, pry the hooked end of the spiral spring away from the regulator.
^ Slide the new spiral spring over the slit pin of the regulator. Use the flat-tip screwdriver to hook
the outer end of the spring to the locating tab.
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Windows and Glass > Windows > Window Regulator > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Window Regulator: > 91001 > Nov > 92 > Window - Noise While
Raising or Lowering Window > Page 4708
3. Lubricate the plastic slides with White Lithium Grease (P/N 08732-0005). Apply multipurpose
grease to the spiral spring as shown. [NEW]
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Service Manager. You must request consideration, and get the DSM's
decision, before starting work.
Flat rate time: Accord & Civic: 0.8 hour Prelude: 1.0 hour
A: With passive restraint system add 0.2 hour (CRX, Accord Coupe, Accord 3-Door and Civic
3-Door)
PARTS INFORMATION
Honda Prelude Workshop Manual (L4-1958cc SOHC (1988))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Wiper and Washer Systems > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems >
Windshield Washer Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair
Windshield Washer Switch: Service and Repair
The following procedure applies to 1984-85 and 1988 Prelude and 1988 Civic and CRX models
which utilize a removable wiper/washer switch. On all other models, the wiper/washer switch is
integral with the combination switch. Refer to ``Combination Switch, Replace'' for procedure.
The following procedure applies to 1984-85 and 1988 Prelude and 1988 Civic and CRX models
which utilize a removable wiper/washer switch. On all other models, the wiper/washer switch is
integral with the combination switch. Refer to ``Combination Switch, Replace'' for procedure.
The following procedure applies to 1984-85 and 1988 Prelude and 1988 Civic and CRX models
which utilize a removable wiper/washer switch. On all other models, the wiper/washer switch is
integral with the combination switch. Refer to ``Combination Switch, Replace'' for procedure.
FRONT
On some models, it may be necessary to remove the wiper arm retaining nuts and the wiper arms
prior to removing air scoop.
1. Unsnap clips carefully with a screwdriver and remove air scoop complete with hood sealing
rubber.
4. Loosen attaching bolts and remove wiper motor together with its cover from cowl. On some
models, it may be necessary to remove motor cover (if equipped) to gain access to motor attaching
bolts.
5. Separate cover (if equipped and not previously removed) from wiper motor.
REAR
2. Remove cover and wiper arm attaching nut, then remove wiper arm.
3. On models except 1988 Civic and Civic Wagon, remove cap, nut and washers from wiper arm
shaft.
4. On 1988 Civic and Civic Wagon, remove rubber seal from wiper arm shaft.
The following procedure applies to 1984-85 and 1988 Prelude and 1988 Civic and CRX models
which utilize a removable wiper/washer switch. On all other models, the wiper/washer switch is
integral with the combination switch. Refer to ``Combination Switch, Replace'' for procedure.