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WATERFRONT

WONDERLAND
CELEBRATE THE SEASON AT A SLOWER PACE
IN A PICTURESQUE GULF COAST BEACH TOWN
WHERE COMMUNITY AND YULETIDE SPIRIT
RUN AS DEEP AS THE BREATHTAKING WATERS
THAT BECKON VISITORS YEAR-ROUND.
by Elizabeth Bonner Czapski | photography by Art Meripol
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I
f you’re dreaming of a white
Christmas in the South, try
trading the idea of snow-covered Nine unique pavilions punctuate the streets of Seaside at the
scenes for sparkling sun-bleached edge of town, designed to promote community as prime places
shores. While December might to meet up before hitting the beach. The most recognizable,
not seem like the ideal time for a beach Coleman Beach Pavilion (page 93), is a gateway to the epicenter
vacation, the charming town of Seaside, of the city. Impressive Christmas trees stand tall along the sky-
Florida, transforms into a winter line, ringing in the season.
wonderland that captures the magic of
holidays gone by.
GREAT SOUTHERN CAFÉ
Saunter along brick-paved streets and
sandy footpaths devised with pedestrians
in mind, and revel in the eclectic window
displays of artisan shops, galleries, and
restaurants. Glowing palms blend with
Christmas trees to illuminate the short
trek from quaint residential cottages to
the bustle of downtown and the serenity
of the ocean.
“I was drawn to Seaside because of
the people and the sense of place that
was unlike anywhere on the coast,” says
Kerri Parker, executive director of
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Come December, the village is cloaked in
merry décor with its own local spin: a
scheme of lime and russet tones more
closely linked to the native palms than
traditional green and red. Christmas
embellishments at the Seaside Chapel take
an understated approach. The architectural
marvel, the highest point in town with its
68-foot bell tower, requires few frills to shine.

the broader South Walton area for more Robert Davis inherited 80 untouched
than 20 years. “There was something acres along Florida’s Gulf Coast from his
special about the town and especially the grandfather, he and his wife, Daryl,
townspeople.” immediately relocated from Miami and
The small resort city touts a set to work on a visionary escape that
distinctive cultural ambience, and Kerri borrows from the values of the past.
says the hospitable merchants are the Inspired by the simple pleasures of
true heart and soul of the community. storied small towns, as well as the time-
Many got their start soon after Seaside tested cabins Robert remembered from
was founded in 1979, making a stroll childhood visits to his grandfather’s
through town “a daily reunion among land, the Davises teamed up with
friends,” as she puts it. architects Andrés Duany and Elizabeth
At Christmastime, these convivial Plater-Zyberk to bring their dream to
relationships and experiences come alive fruition. Together, they created a retreat
all the more. “Seaside is just so where walking and biking are favored
beautifully lit—it’s captivating,” Kerri over driving, and fellowship is fostered
says. “I love the window-shopping through outdoor gathering spots that
aspect, seeing all the displays and function like alfresco living rooms.
holiday cheer. It brings you back to the What started with two houses on a
old days of shopping.” single lane, plus a shared pavilion
The nostalgic feel that infuses the leading to the beach, has grown into a
town was an intentional facet of the village of more than 300 cottages,
exacting plans for Seaside, the first New known for their coordinated pastel hues,

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Urbanist community in the country. sprawling porches, and native

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When renowned builder and developer landscaping. Anchoring each street of

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Those who come for the beach will be
pleasantly surprised by all this resort town has
to offer beyond sand and surf, with everything
accessible by foot or bike. Visit Modica Market
(top left) at the start of your trip. From fresh-
baked goods to Southern culinary essentials,
the shop has ample provisions to stock your
home away from home. If you’d prefer to dine
out, options range from flip-flop-friendly gems
to formal venues. For a casual bite, choose
from a lineup of retro Airstreams (top right)
with grab-and-go fare or a classic haunt like
The Shrimp Shack (right). Last-minute holiday
shopping will be a breeze at boutiques like The
Art of Simple (bottom right), a fun destination
filled with necessities and luxuries that include
abodes, nine pavilions stretch across the Family-owned Sundog Books has since the late 1980s; and venues like
apothecary, tabletop, decorative accents, and
shoreline and provide communal access delighted residents and tourists alike for Great Southern Café, which boasts
more. Employees at Sundog Books (left) love
points to the sea. The pedestrian-scale three decades, as have their “sun dogs,” “new-fashioned” regional cuisine with
to help patrons find the perfect gifts, sending
design ensures that every dwelling is who have become furry fixtures of the international and seafaring flair.
them off wrapped and ready to bestow.
within a 5-minute walk of the town square. community in their own rights. “We are a Just steps from the flourishing
This central hub is home to a wide array bit more relaxed during the winter, giving square, Seaside’s towering Coleman
of beachfront businesses with evolving us extra time to spend with customers,” Beach Pavilion offers a grand portal to
inventory that guarantees fresh finds for says bookseller Laney Blanchard. “It is a the pristine blue-green waves beyond. For
repeat vacationers, as well as structures very sweet time when we can pay a little Christmas, it’s festooned with thousands
like the classic Seaside Post Office, dressed extra attention to our regular customers of lights, showing off its striking
in ornate garland and flanked by rows of and get to know new ones.” architectural details as it stands as a
gleaming palm trees this time of year. At Modica Market, a gourmet grocery beacon to the beach in all its wintry glory.
“Seaside is the natural downtown of store opened in 1989 and currently run by Kerri says there are also seasonal
all of South Walton,” Kerri says. “It’s a the second generation of its namesake, intangibles. “Have you ever walked on
very urban beach environment, and it the laid-back off-season allows for the beach with a bit of chill to your feet
draws you in with all the shops you don’t weekday lunch specials, like Friday’s from the sand? It’s a really interesting
have anywhere else.” Peruse the famous Fried Grouper Po-Boy, and feeling, like velvet,” she says. Stunning
commercial district for one-of-a-kind delectable premade dishes for holiday sunsets in the brisk air and private
art, antiques, and home goods, and be meals. The culinary scene includes cottages that enable families to
sure to stop at Cabana by The Seaside vintage Airstream travel trailers that congregate add to the enticing equation.

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Style, the city’s original open-air market, serve grilled cheese, barbecue, and more; “At the holidays, that’s what I always

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for the latest coastal-influenced fashions. Bud & Alley’s, a beachside favorite think about—gathering with family.”

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