Contents

Contents Dark Eldar Mandrakes . . . . . . .

Necron Monolith . . . . . . . . .
.
.
.
.
42
44
Myce c Spore . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Contents 3 Ork Trukk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Razorwing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Introduction 4
Rhino to Razorback and viceversa . . 54
Briefing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Screamers of Tzeench . . . . . . . . . 56
28 mm vs. 6 mm . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Soulgrinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Stormraven Gunship . . . . . . . . . 57
What do you need 5
Talos Pain Engine . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Miniatures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Tau Ba lesuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Templates and other tools . . . . . . 6
Tervigon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Trygon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Magne zing models . . . . . . . . . . 6
Sculp ng and custom modifica ons . 6 F.A.Q. 76

Rescaled Meters and Conversion System 8 Gallery 80

The Math behind the Game . . . . . . 8 Black Templars . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Printable Meters and Templates . . . 8 Blood Angels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
The Evil Math-Intensive Addendum . . 10 Ba le Sisters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Chaos Daemons . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
Set up the game 17
Chaos Space Marine . . . . . . . . . . 90
Differen ate Models . . . . . . . . . 17
Dark Eldar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Model Magne za on . . . . . . . . . 20
Eldar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Pain ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Grey Knights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Basing and Base Size . . . . . . . . . 23
Imperial Guard . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Tables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Necron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Practical tips 27 Orks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Space Wolves . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Play fast, play safe . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Tau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141
Pocket 40K is Epic Armageddon . . . . 27
Tyranids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Link . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Pekel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147
Tutorials 30 Drax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Adeptus Custodes . . . . . . . . . . . 30 S ngray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Catacomb Command Barge / Annihi-
Contacts 176
la on barge . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Dark Eldar Raider . . . . . . . . . . . 34 The team 176
Destroyer Lord . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
Doom Scythe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Disclaimer 177
Doomsday Ark . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

2
 INTRODUCTION
Introduction
Briefing
If you always thought that Warhammer 40,000
was a too demanding game for the limited capa-
bili es of your table, here comes a brand new
incredibly small design for your future games.
Complete with rules adapta on, ps, and inspir-
ing pictures of bloody massacre.
The aim of this website is to show you how to re-
duce every single model in Warhammer 40,000
into his 6 mm version. Shrinking the sizes allows
gaming in many different condi ons and places,
makes the game much cheaper, and much eas-
ier to store and transport.
If you think it’s a good idea to reduce the di-
mensions of the game, while keeping intact
the strategical depth, then in this website you
will find all the necessary instruc ons and ps
on how to rescale your en re army in a mints
box! On the other hand, if you play Warham-
mer 40,000 to enjoy beau fully painted and ex-
tremely detailed models and scenery, this ver-
sion may be a bit of a disappointment.
Regardless of your gaming personality we’d like
to invite you, newcomer, casual gamer, veteran,
or painter, to have a look; the website is mostly
picture-oriented and is intended to show the
outcome of what we reckon to be a very good
idea.
”Pocket Warhammer 40K”, as we like to call it
(but can’t, for copyright reasons), is much suit-
able for very impa ent gamers who don’t like
to spend much me on paint. It is also good
4
for newcomers, because provides a very good
way of introducing the game without too much
prepara on. It’s most likely the best way to
present the game to other people, since all that
is needed is well contained in a backpack and
can be carried around either at school, univer-
sity or even work.
If you want to know all you need to know to
start Pocket WH40K, check “What do you need”
at page 5, otherwise the pictures in the Gallery
(page 80) will give you a quick idea of what we’re
talking about. In the end, if you like the idea
and you want to start making your own pocket
armies, the website provides all the necessary
informa on, tools and contacts you need to do
so, combined with our ac ve and always busy
team.
28 mm vs. 6 mm
We’d be lying to you if we were to say that go-
ing to 6 mm is just be er or funnier than 28
mm. When it comes to fun, everyone has his
own taste about it, and this small adapta on of
Warhammer 40.000 can easily be despised due
to whatever reason. During our gametes ng
we’ve been carefully gathering and collec ng as
many opinions as possible, to let you know what
are the things that you may find annoying even
before you start. Below there is a very quick
list of the cri cal points that some players have
brought to our a en on:
• It is E I to understand
that your first games with 6 mm are go-
ing to be slower than 28 mm! Very ny
infantry models can be difficult to handle,
 WHAT DO YOU NEED
place, move and so on. Precise measure-
ments, correct template placing, sca er-
ing, etc. They all suffer the same problem.
On this subject, we ask you to trust us when
we say that it’s only a ma er of me and
prac ce. A er the ini al adapta on to the
smaller gaming system, everything is going
to be all right again. It’s a new game, and
it takes a bit of dedica on in the start, just
like 28 mm Warhammer.
• Most obviously, the miniatures are small
and lack fine detail. This feature of Pocket
Warhammer will most likely be okay to
all those players who are more interested
into the gaming aspect of Warhammer
rather than the ar s c one. If you think
that miniature’s extreme details and per-
fect representa on of the equipment are a
must for Warhammer, this conversion may
not suit you (unless you’re in for a big chal-
lenge).
• Some people point out the difficulty of
placing small markers on miniatures to
keep track of wounds or any other sort of
informa on. This problem can be easily
fixed buying very small dices (6 mm high),
available pre y much everywhere in big
bunches. It is also true that no one who
actually played the game has ever come
up with this cri cism, and we’ve never had
such problems ourselves.
• Shrinking down the scale of the game im-
plies that measurements errors are ”more
likely” (yes, we have made the math). With
respect to game balance, this is not a prob-
lem at all, since it affects all the players in
the same manner. The most compe ve
5
players, and especially the ones that rely on
1/20 of inch difference for the victory, are
probably not going to like this. At all.
As a final note we would like to remember to
everybody that it is no sin to own both 6 mm
and 28 mm models. We actually own many 28
mm models, but, simply put, we find the game
more enjoyable when it’s shrunk.
What do you need
The super-short summary of all (All!) the things
you’ll need to get started with Pocket WH40K.
Miniatures
The first and foremost thing you are going to
need are models from the Epic Armageddon
game, a 6 mm reduc on previously sold by
Games Workshop and discon nued in 2013.
Nowadays neither Games Workshop nor Forge-
World produce 6 mm miniatures anymore, how-
ever most models can s ll be found on eBay, in
second hand shops, or can easily be proxed us-
ing 6 mm miniatures from third party producers.
If you don’t find what you need, or you want
to further improve your gaming experience, you
might eventually decide to make your own mod-
els. To help you in this task, a complete list of
miniature retailers for most units/proxies can be
found in the link list at page 28.
For addi onal guidance the Tutorial sec on con-
tains several examples of custom-made minia-
tures (page ).
 WHAT DO YOU NEED
Templates and other tools
To play Warhammer, you’ll need properly
rescaled meters, templates and bases (for big-
ger models). For precise meters and templates,
we already took care of everything with a simple
printable page (see page 8). Bases of more than
6 mm in diameter, or of unusual shape, can be
custom made out of thick cardboard, thick mag-
ne c foil, plas card, or even more easily, buying
them from the retailers listed in the Link sec on
(page 28). In any case, remember to check our
guidelines on base sizes and basing techniques
from the appropriate chapter (page 23).
Table
Out of experience, we suggest to use a
metallic board and miniatures fi ed with mag-
nets. The appropriate board size to use is dis-
cussed at page 8. In short, what you’ll need is ei-
ther an A3 or two A4 metallic boards, and you’re
gaming table is complete! If you want to see
a few examples of what is possible, just skip to
page 25! On the aesthe c side, the cheapness
and ease of produc on of the gaming board
means that you can have a plen ful of different
scenarios to play onto.
Magnetizing models
When most people think about magne zing
models, pre y much everyone thinks immedi-
ately to rare-earth superstrong magnets. We
tried to use rare earth magnets for the single
models, but we soon discovered that they were
6
way too strong to allow side-by-side placing of
models because they were strongly repelling
each other, or even worse, collapsing into a big
miniature tangle.
In general the standard fridge magnets, even
just 0.3mm thick, will give your miniatures and
scenery a perfect and gravity-proof adherence
to the board. More on this in the dedicated sec-
on at page 20.
Sculpting and custom modifications
Green stuff and thin plas card are must-have
materials if you want to modify or create your
own 6 mm miniatures. Proper sculp ng tools
and precision cu ers are also quite important
if you want to achieve adequate model quality
with ease.
Scenery, on the other hand, is very simple to
produce and doesn’t require precise measure-
ments. Use bits and components gathered from
everywhere, and you will end up very soon with
a good amount of extra-small highly-portable
terrain. Magnets come handy also in this case;
we suggest that you use medium to big magnets
for scenery elements as they are much heav-
ier than miniatures. You can see various sizes
of magnets used for our terrain elements in the
Model Magne za on sec on at page 20.
 RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM
Rescaled Meters and
Conversion System
The Math behind the Game
In this sec on there is all the necessary informa-
on to reduce the dimensions of every game el-
ement without affec ng rules or game balance.
Our approach to scale down everything goes
through a few very simple calcula ons. To un-
derstand the idea behind the process just think
keep in mind that on a 25mm scale the unity for
the movement is an inch (∼25 mm); in other
words, the unity of movement in the game is
the same as the scale of the game. For mod-
els at a 6 mm scale the unity of movement is 6
mm. Nowadays Warhammer 40k is defined as
”28 mm”, but this is due to the slow increase
in dimensions since the first Warhammer minia-
tures came out. Long story short, to make ev-
erything as precise as possible and in conformity
with the actual 28 mm standards, we rescaled
everything taking into account a 28 mm model.
To rescale a classic Warhammer 40,000 game
into his pocket version this is the conversion for-
mula:
ClassicW40K size · 6
PocketW40K size =
28
Or approximately:
PocketW40K size = ClassicW40K size · 0.21
The calcula on is valid for any type of measure-
ment, so that the dimensions of a gaming table
8
for Classic Warhammer 40K are 6’x4’, but a er
the conversion they become:
6·6
= 1.29′ = 38.6cm
28
4·6
= 0.86′ = 25.7cm
28
Slightly less than an A3 paper sheet!
The propor on is valid for cen meters, millime-
ters, inches, feet or whatever type of unit you
prefer.
If you don’t care about “small” approxima ons
and want every measure to be as exact and
round as possible, then assume that an inch in
the Warhammer system is equal to 6 mm in the
Pocket WH40K system. Every length/size can be
obtained by dividing the classical dimension by
5. Not perfect, but does the trick.
Printable Meters and Templates
For most situa ons in a standard game the
lengths and measurements needed are always
the same (12”, 24” and so on...): to make things
even simpler we made a printable page contain-
ing all the templates and meters you’ll need (see
next page). The Reference Marks should mea-
sure exactly 1cm, or 1 inch, for all the other
measures to be correct. T
.
 RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM
When prin ng make sure that all the page mar-
gins in the prin ng op ons are set to 0. If you
s ll see some imperfec ons in the reference
marks apply the appropriate enlargement in the
prin ng op ons as described in the following ta-
ble:
Measured Mark Enlargement Required
1.3 77 %
1.2 83 %
1.1 91 %
0.9 111 %
0.8 125 %
0.7 142 %
Otherwise some trial and error should give you
the correct prin ng dimensions.
Note: If you are interested in a detailed, ge-
ometry intensive explana on of rescaling
factors, misconcep ons about them and
other math-intensive trivia, the next sec-
on “The Evil Math-Intensive Addendum”
is what you need to read. If you don’t care
about such pe y things, we suggest that
you skip the sec on altogether.
The Evil Math-Intensive Addendum
Premise:
• This sec on is only meant to provide in-
sight in the mechanics underlying Pocket
Warhammer 40K. If you only care about
having fun, you can skip this page alto-
gether.
• Familiarity with high-school-level geome-
try is required.
10
Many people would like to use a different
rescaling system than the one used by Pocket
Warhammer 40K. Examples can be summarized
as follows:
• ”Hey! Epic Armageddon is more or less 25%
in size. I will just pretend that 1/4 of inch is
one inch!” or
• ”Hey! Epic Armageddon is more or less 20%
in size. I will just pretend that 1/5 of inch is
one inch!” or even
• ”Why use your pre-adjusted meters? I will
just pretend that <whatever unit> is one
inch!”
There a few reasons as to why a player would
prefer a custom system instead of prin ng the
rescaled meters/templates. Regardless of the
reasons involved, the use of a different system
for Pocket Warhammer 40K DOES have an im-
pact on the gameplay and game balance. Below,
the step-by-step explana on.
Coherency
When something is ”scaled-down”, coherency
among the components must be retained. That
is, the ra o between two objects in one sys-
tem, must be the same in the scaled-down sys-
tem as well. In the case of Warhammer 40K the
ra o we considered is (arbitrarily) between the
height of a space marine (28.0 mm) and “The
Inch” (25.4 mm). The ra o for Warhammer 40K
is
28
= 1.10
25.4
Now, whatever the rescaling system, the ra o
between the two values must be the same, and
 RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM
this must be true for ALL the exis ng pairs of
values. For the sake of simplicity here we only
men on this pair, but other significant pairs are
all those cases where a miniature-size parame-
ter is compared with a non-miniature-size pa-
rameter (more on this later).
A bad rescaling system
Let’s take the case of a system where 1 cm is as-
sumed to be 1 inch for gaming purposes; that
is: 1 cm = 1 inch The miniatures in use are Epic
miniatures. The ra o between a space marine
height (6 mm) and The Inch (10 mm) is as fol-
lows:
6 terac ons between all the components of the
= 0.6
10
The ra o is FAR different from the desired 1.10.
The scaling system is wrong.
Pre y much in the same way, if one pretends to
play with Warhammer 40K miniatures using the
conversion 1 cm = 1 inch, the ra o goes like this:
Marine height: 28.0mm
The Inch: 10.0 mm
Ra o:
28
= 2.8
10
Once again, the result is FAR off from 1.10, and
the rescaling is wrong.
A good rescaling system
We now consider the case where we want to use
Epic miniatures in Pocket Warhammer. In this
11
case the minimum measurement unit is the one
from the printed sheet in this website: 5.55 mm.
Space Marine height: 6 mm
The Inch: 5.55mm
Ra o:
6
= 1.09
5.55
The ra o is nearly the same (a minimum dis-
crepancy is expected due to prin ng errors).
The rescaling is correct.
Why is coherency important?
Coherency is fundamental to ensure that the in-
game are the same as in the original size.
Example: We assume the scenario where an Im-
perial unit is in cover behind a Rhino. The at-
tacker is 4″ away from the Rhino, and moves 6″
around the Rhino in order to shoot to the Impe-
rial unit. Let’s see what happens in all cases.
1 - Classic Warhammer 40K: how things
should work
• The star ng scenario. (Figure 1)
• The a acker moves, but cannot get line of
sight. (Figure 2)
2 - Using 28 mm models, pretending that 1
cm = 1 inch
• The star ng scenario. (Figure 3)
 RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM

• The a acker moves, and can barely reach

the edge of the Rhino. (Figure 4)

3 - Using Epic models, pretending that 1 cm

= 1 inch

• The star ng scenario. (Figure 5)

• The a acker moves, and can easily get line

of sight to the Imperial unit. (Figure 6)
Figure 1

4 - Using Epic models, pretending that 5.55

mm = 1 inch (Pocket Warhammer system)

• The star ng scenario. (Figure 7)

• The a acker moves, but cannot get line of

sight. Exactly as per classic Warhammer
40K. (Figure 8)

At this point it should be clear that Pocket

Warhammer can only be played with the rescal-
Figure 2 ing system described in this document (page 8);
all the other systems, simply put, are wrong. If
you are s ll dubious, check below the most com-
mon cri cisms to the explana on you have just
read.

Criticism 1 Your explana on is completely miss-

ing the point! You don’t see the bigger pic-
ture! Once you rescale everything, every-
thing fits!

Answer 1 This cri cisms is based on the assump-

on that, once the table AND the meter
AND the templates AND the deployment
Figure 3 distances are scaled properly, the game-
play is the same, regardless of the scale

12
 RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM

Figure 4
Figure 6

Figure 5

used. This is only true if ALSO the minia- Figure 7

tures are rescaled accordingly. Games
Workshop however only produced 28 mm
(classic 40K) or 6 mm miniatures (Pocket
40K). Since there are only two size avail-
able for the miniatures, Warhammer 40K
can only be played using the scale associ-
ated to Classic 40K or Pocket 40K.

Criticism 2 In your explana on you define your

”Ra o” between ”a miniature-size parame-
ter” and ”a non-miniature-size parameter”.
Why?

Answer 2 If you calculate the ra o between two Figure 8

miniature-size parameters, the result is al-

13
 RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM
ways going to be coherent, because GW is
doing a pre y good job at this. For exam-
ple, in 28 mm the ra o between the space
marine height (28 mm) and the Rhino
length (110 mm) is 28/110 = 0.25. In 6 mm,
the ra o between the height of a Space
marine (6 mm) and the length of a Rhino
(22mm) is 6/22 = 0.27. The same goes for
non-miniature-size parameters. The only
meaningful test to verify if a rescaling is
correct is the Ra o “between a miniature-
size parameter and a non-miniature-size
parameter”, or deriva ons thereof.
Criticism 3 Epic Armageddon uses 6 mm minia-
tures and no rescaling. Are you saying that
Epic Armageddon is wrong?
Answer 3 Epic Armageddon was originally de-
signed to work with its scaling system (Ra-
o 6/25.4 = 0.24), and is thus a prop-
erly func oning game. If one was to
scale-down Epic Armageddon, then he/she
would face exactly the same arguments,
and should check that the “Ra o” is always
0.24 for any rescaling.
Criticism 4 (1/4 inch = 1 inch) and (1/5 inch = 1
inch) seem like very good approxima ons.
Is it fine to use them?
Answer 4 Despite the appearances, both ra os
are sensibly different from the correct con-
version. We would suggest to use them
only if you really can’t print the rescaled
meters. (1/5 inch = 1 inch) is the best be-
tween the two.
Criticism 5 If you tweak a bit the rules, even a
different system can work fine.
14
Answer 5 Maybe, but it will never be the same
as vanilla 40K, it will probably be overcom-
plicated, and, above all, why do it when
there are easier solu ons?
Criticism 6 The Inch! The Inch will ruin Christ-
mas in the 41st millennium!
Answer 6 Damn you! Chaos!
First-hand experience: The adventures of
Mike
A few weeks a er publishing this ar cle Mike,
from the Bolter & Chainsword forums, decided
to report the pro and cons faced by his group
when using a wrong scaling system. Below, his
very own words:
Played a few games with our 1 cm =
1” scale (which, amusingly, your rub-
bished only recently). In the name of
not completely dashing my work (can
you call it that?) against the rocks I
shall say my pros and cons.
Pros: Guns have range! The whole
game had a much more ”real” feel.
We also adapted rela vely quickly to
everything being this range as well.
Cons: Moving just feels... wrong.
Everyone moves too fast. Also we en-
countered the problem that you guys
pointed out; tanks don’t block much.
Although we could put models 2cm
apart, we had trouble adjus ng to
that and everything ended up bunch
up, leading to...
SuperCons: Blasts. Kill. Everything.
It was just imbalanced. No one could
 RESCALED METERS AND CONVERSION SYSTEM

really do the ”spacing out” bit right,

and the blasts were huge.
All in all, think we’ll try and use your
system. I just printed off the rulers, will
play test soon. –Mike–

Note: Mike is also the owner of the Imperial Guard minia-

tures you can see in the gallery sec on of this doc-
ument (page 114).

Conclusion:

In the end, you have seen how an erroneous

scale-down can affect the game, and why. You
have also been provided with the tools neces-
sary to avoid problems (page 8). You have seen
the light. The choice is yours now.

15
 SET UP THE GAME

Set up the game

Differentiate Models

When we first introduced Pocket Warhammer

to various forum communi es many people ex-
pressed one major concern, which went more
or less like this:

• ”How can I dis nguish models with differ-

ent weapons?” or Figure 9

• ”One Space Marine has a Boltgun, another

one has a Flamer. How can I tell them apart
if they’re so small?”

• Etc. etc...

This sec on is dedicated to the three different

ways we conceived and tested to answer such
ques ons. All are equally effec ve.

Method 1: converting Figure 10

With a bit of good will it’s possible to modify the

standard-issue weapon even on a 6 mm model,
not unlike one would do with 28 mm models.
Below I show an example of a Space Marine with
a standard Bolter. I want him to have a Mul -
Melta instead.

1) Take the Space Marine. (Figure 9)

2) With a precision knife, carve out the Bolter.

Two or three notches in the right spots will do
the job. Just be careful to keep the rest undam- Figure 11
aged. (Figure 10)

17
 SET UP THE GAME

Figure 12 Figure 15

Figure 13 Figure 16

Figure 14 Figure 17

18
 SET UP THE GAME
3) Take a very small ball of green stuff and place
it in the hole, then adapt it and shape it a bit al-
ways using the same precision knife. I probably
sculpted far too many details in this par cular
case. (Figure 11)
4) Two small s cks of Plas card 0.5 mm thick
make the barrels. (Figure 12)
5) Op onal: Mul -Melta comes with a big back-
pack. Shape a small sphere of green stuff on the
back of the same Space Marine, as we did be-
fore with the gun. in this case you don’t even
need to carve the model. (Figure 13)
6) Op onal: connect the backpack to the
weapon using a very small green stuff tube. (Fig-
ure 14)
7) Paint! Our miniature, fully equipped with
Mul -Melta, is ready! (Figure 15)
This is our method of choice. Be reassured that
all the details are clearly visible, even on 6 mm
models. Drax’s heavy weapons were all modi-
fied in this way. His Space Marine were further
differen ated with method 2 to allow for mul -
ple combina ons. (Figure 16)
Method 2: Painting differently
For the more lazy of you, a very simple trick is to
use a slightly different color scheme for groups
of models. Before the game starts, just make
sure that you and your opponent agree about
which color is what.
In the previous picture (Figure 16) you can see
an applica on of this method: pain ng in two
different colors the shoulder pads. Chronos
19
Figure 18
used the very same solu on for his Space
Wolves army and his Grey Knights army as well.
(Figure 17)
Obviously this method is not limited to Space
Marine or shoulder pads in any way! As long as
you can see the difference, you can do whatever
you want.
Method 3: Different base color
Lastly, for the really lazy bunch of you, too both-
ered even by method 2 ”because the miniatures
are too small!” you can resort to the most des-
perate method: pain ng different bases in dif-
ferent colors. A Space Marine with a Flamer can
have a red base, a Bolter will have a black base,
a Plasma gun a blue base, and so on and so on...
(Figure 18)
There is absolutely no limit in how you can dis-
nguish one model from another. Do whatever
you feel is right, and be reassured that it will
work fine!
And of course, you can combine all the methods
explained above to have a huge number of pos-
sible combina ons!
 SET UP THE GAME

Model Magnetization

Adding magnets or weights to 28 mm minia-

tures is usually op onal, but this is not the case
for 6 mm miniatures. Magnets are very im-
portant to avoid accidental movements on the
board and are also very helpful to move minia-
tures for small distances dragging them.

It’s important to ,
since they’re too strong, and collapse onto each
other when models are arranged in units. Fridge Figure 19
magnets or adhesive magne c sheets are what
you need. For a couple of easy solu ons, check
out our Links (page 28).

In this sec on two quick ad simple tutorial

on how to ready your miniatures for Pocket
Warhammer are described.

Tutorial 1: 6 mm round magnetic base for

infantry

First off, get your hands on a magne c sheet.

Figure 20
Once you have a good grip on it, the cheapest
and fastest way to make 6 mm infantry bases for
your infantry units is to use a punch hole.

Here’s how:

1. Take your magne c sheet.. (Figure 19)

2. ...and take a punch hole. (Figure 20)

3. Put the magne c sheet in the punch hole,

possibly with the protec ve paper towards
the ”blade”. Exactly not as shown in the
picture. (Figure 21)
Figure 21
4. Punch! (Figure 22)

20
 SET UP THE GAME

Figure 22
Figure 24

Figure 23

5. Your first 6 mm infantry base is ready. Re- Figure 25

peat un l wrist failure occurs. (Figure 23)

The diameter of the hole can vary between 5.5

mm and 6.5 mm, depending on the punch hole
used. This means that almost any punch hole
will do the job.

Thanks to Chris for the brilliant idea!

Tutorial 2: General-purpose magnetic bases

1. Reach the fridge in your house. It’s usu- Figure 26

ally located between you and the cool

21
 SET UP THE GAME
Figure 27
food. Take away the decora ons with the
thinnest magnet and the lowest value. (Fig-
ure 24)
2. Remove whatever is on top of the magnet
and cut it into small pieces. The pieces
should have as much surface as the base
you want to magne ze. (Figure 25)
3. The magnets don’t have to be thick. It’s
be er if they are much thinner than 1 mm,
around 0.3-0.6 mm is a good thickness. If
they prove too weak you can always make
two layers. (Figure 26)
4. Once the small magnets are ready, s ck
them under the base of your miniatures.
This picture is a bit old and we don’t put a
base under vehicles anymore, but we glue
the big magnet straight under the wheels.
(Figure 27)
5. Remember to keep the biggest magnets for
the scenery elements. They will probably
need all the extensions available to their
base to be gravity-proof. (Figure 28)
22
Figure 28
Painting
Pain ng 6 mm miniatures can be quite different
from pain ng 28 mm miniatures. Good guides
on how to paint 6 mm models are easily avail-
able on the web. Below there is a small collec-
on of ps from our own experience, addressed
to experienced painters and beginners as well.
The intent is to help pain ng 6 mm infantry
miniatures. Vehicles and big monsters don’t re-
quire par cular skills; the same guidelines for
28 mm miniature pain ng will apply to them as
well.
Use the smallest brush available to you. We use
brushes in the range between 000 and 0 (also
called 3/0 to 0), with 000 being the most versa-
le, and 0 barely usable to apply wide hands of
uniform color. Drybrush can be done with any
brush of reasonable size, as long as the paint
is applied only to the p of the brush in order
to avoid excessive paint spread. We never use
make use of an airbrush or any other ”fancy”
tool.
Washes are tremendously useful to show the
details, but it can be extremely difficult to limit
 SET UP THE GAME
a specific wash color to a very small area on the
model. As a fast solu on to the problem, we
simply expose all miniatures to a full black wash
from the p of their heads to the bo om of the
boots. Following is just a quick highligh ng of
exposed areas, drybrushing and drawing details.
Easy and effec ve!
A 6 mm miniature is quite tricky to hold steadily
in the hand. It will work, but most of the paint
will end up on your hands/gloves. While some
of us are absolutely fine with it, some others
may not like it. A simple solu on is to magne-
ze your miniatures before pain ng, put them
on top of a large piece of metal, and grab the
metal instead. This may aid your work quite
a lot. Pressure-sensi ve adhesive (Blu-Tack)
works equally well, in case you don’t want to
magne ze your model prior to pain ng.
The amount of detail you can paint on a minia-
ture really depends on your pain ng skills. The
be er you are, the more detail can be drawn.
Simple pain ng can achieve very solid results.
Most of Alessar’s Orks were painted without
par cular a en on to details due to their large
numbers (page 125). Levian’s Eldar and Dark El-
dar were painted with much more care (page 99
or 104). Both look absolutely fine when it comes
to gaming.
Color choice is personal, but before star ng you
may want to consider choosing different color
schemes to dis nguish units/special characters
or other par cular models. More on this at page
17.
Basecoat is op onal. Most infantry models are
so small that with too many layers of paint de-
tails will begin to disappear. Several miniatures
shown in this document were stripped off of
23
all their previous paint and repainted without
basecoat.
Con nuous use of the models can soon turn out
in corrosion of the paint. It’s especially impor-
tant in this case to coat all of them with a thin
layer of protec ve varnish. We don’t do it, but
we don’t play very o en either.
Don’t be afraid of the apparently small size of
the miniatures. Most of us started pain ng 28
mm miniatures, and found pain ng 6 mm minia-
tures just as fine, if not easier.
Basing and Base Size
The miniatures of Warhammer 40K use various
base size and shape, and the bases come pro-
vided in the box. Epic miniatures, or other 6 mm
models, come already assembled and based, in
case of infantry, or without base in case of vehi-
cles. To get the right base size and shape for all
your 6 mm models there are only two possible
solu ons:
Make your own bases. This is what we do most
of the mes, because it’s a super cheap, imme-
diate and flexible method to make all the bases.
We start with some cardboard, plas card, mag-
ne c foil other similarly hard and thin material,
we draw the base first, then we cut it. The thick-
ness should be 1mm or less. For exact measure-
ments one can use a drawing compass for round
shapes, and with a bit of prac ce also oval ones.
Once obtained the first ”template base”, all the
others can be copied easily.
Buy ”custom cut” bases. In this way you will pay
a bit more, but you can be 100% sure about the
 SET UP THE GAME

Base Type 28 mm Scale 6 mm Scale

Standard Infantry 25 mm round 6 mm round
9 mm (more correct) or 10
Large Infantry 40 mm round
mm (easier) round
Monsters 60 mm round 13 mm round
Flyers 90x120 mm oval 20x26 mm oval
Bikes 25x70 mm rounded rectangle 6x15 mm rounded rectangle
Clear flight stands small 30 mm round 7 mm round
Clear flight stands large 60 mm round 13 mm round

size, and you don’t have to do any manual la-
bor. Some sellers provide magne c bases. For
more informa on check our Link sec on (page
28). If you don’t find link suitable to you there
are many other alterna ves, just look in your
area for hobby stores, or on the internet.
Whatever method you choose, you’ll need to
know the proper size of each base, converted in
6 mm scale. The table on this page can fix that.
Base height is another very important aspect to
consider. The most important thing to keep in
mind is that all the bases should have the same
height. Also, the thinner the be er. To achieve
this in an easy way, just follow these guidelines
(Figure 29):
• For infantry units with a 6 mm base, just
put a standard magnet under their base so
that the total height will be: base (1mm) +
magnet (1mm max.)
• For larger infantry, which come provided
with 6 mm bases, but need larger ones,
cut a magne c base of appropriate size and
shape, and glue the model on it with his
own base. Total height: base (1mm) + mag-
net (1mm max.)
• For all the other miniatures that come
without base, but need one, glue the
miniature to the custom made base, then
put some magnets under it, so that the to-
tal height is again: base (1mm) + magnet
(1mm max.)
If based miniatures are too high compared to
non-based ones, like vehicles, line of sight can
become quite tricky to evaluate. 2 mm Should
be the very upper limit, but if you want to play
correctly, than the overall base height should be
between 1mm and 1.5mm. Achieving a base
height below 1mm would be even be er, but
would also require to take all the infantry minia-
tures off their own 6 mm base, which is very
me consuming, and not really that necessary

Figure 29

24
 SET UP THE GAME

a er all.

A note on approxima on: most of the conver-

sion sizes shown in this page have been approx-
imated. This is not extremely important for big
bases (over 10mm in every size), but all the
bases with at least one size of 10mm or less
should be measured with precision. Remember
that a difference of 1mm in base size, equals
more or less to a difference of half a cen meter
in 28 mm; it makes a big difference to infantry
units!
Figure 30
The sec ons ends with a small reminder, taken
directly from the 6th Edi on Rulebook: on page
3, bo om of the le column, there is a small
paragraph about ”Models and Base Sizes”.This
paragraph, in short, allows the gamers to use
”bases of appropriate size if needed”, without
being strict on which size or shape one minia-
ture does exactly need. We made extensive use
of this ”rule” for all our Space marine Termina-
tors: we are using 6 mm bases, even though it
would be more appropriate a 10 mm base.

Special thanks to L. Donaldson for poin ng out

the issue of basing and base sizes. Figure 31

Tables
The gaming tables shown in this sec on were
made using metallic whiteboards, lightly
painted to get the proper color (Figures 30-32).
When making your boards remember to use as
less paint/fake terrain as possible, or the mag-
nets will have problems s cking to the board.
Just enough to give the color and make it a bit
more rough will be perfect, and it may actually
help against sliding. All the boards were made Figure 32
either using one or two A4 whiteboards.

25
 PRACTICAL TIPS

Practical tips
Play fast, play safe

In this sec on there is a small collec on of prac-

cal ps for playing a game of Pocket Warham-
mer 40.000. The ps come from our own expe-
rience.

Understanding the scale: Rescaling the game

may cause a bit of confusion to those players
who are used to 28 mm. A good rule of thumb
is that one standard infantry base diameter is
equivalent to 1 inch (roughly the same as for 28
mm). This may come handy when quickly check-
ing for unit coherency or during an assault.
Move faster!: A large, metallic base for an en-
re infantry unit is a simple way to speed up
movement, especially during the first turns of
the game, when models move much more co-
herently as compared to the la er turns. Addi-
onally, at any moment during the game, you
can move your models away from the base, and
take it away from the board. Making use of such
big bases is a problem when dealing with the ex-
act measurement of distances, but if your gam-
ing group agrees, they can be very useful to hus-
tle the game. Flat fridge magnets will not work,
since they force the models in specific posi ons
over the magnet. If you want to know more
about this, you can check page 27. We don’t
make use this trick during our games anymore.
Pocket 40K is Epic Armageddon
Pocket Warhammer makes extensive use of
miniatures from Epic Armageddon or other 6
mm games. It is o en the case that Epic minia-
tures are available in groups so numerous that
it will be impossible to use them all in the same
game. How to deal with this excessive amount
of ny plas c/pewter guys? In this sec on are
described a few solu ons that work well for us.
The first and most common solu on is to re-sell
or ”gi ” the extra models. The solu on is very
prac cal, possibly will save you some money,
and it will also increase the number of oppo-
nents for your pocket armies.
Another common solu on, and the one we ap-
ply most o en, is to prepare an enormous vari-
ety of armies to play with friends, with an insane
amount of different troops and vehicles. There
will never be two iden cal games!
The last solu on is even more intriguing than
the first two: Use Pocket Warhammer minia-
tures to play Epic Armageddon!
All the models used in Pocket are legal 6 mm
miniatures for Epic Armageddon. The typical
idea would be that of gluing the models onto

27
 PRACTICAL TIPS
”stands”, which are 5-model bases for infantry,
and play on a regular Warhammer table. The
most common stands for Epic are either square
or linear, but the manual is more flexible about
the exact size and shape:
” ...The size of a stand and the num-
ber of models glued to it are le pre y
much up to the player to decide within
the following limita ons: A stand may
be no more than 40mm and no less
than 5mm across in any direc on. A
stand must be at least 20mm across
in one direc on (i.e., a 5mm by 5mm
stand is not allowed, but a 5mm by
20mm stand would be okay). Stands
represen ng infantry units must have
at least three infantry models and
may not have more than seven. In-
fantry mounted on bikes or horses
must have between two and four mod-
els mounted on each base. Stands rep-
resen ng ar llery must have between
one and two ar llery pieces and up to
six crew models.”
Knowing the rules, we decided that an ideal
stand for magne c Epic Armageddon miniatures
is the 5 eurocent coin, which perfectly fits the
28
regula ons. On top of that, the coin is also
ferromagne c, meaning that Pocket miniatures
s ck to it! The models we prepared for Pocket
Warhammer are now perfectly adaptable also
for Epic Armageddon, and viceversa. No glue re-
quired.
The trick works also for non-euro coins as
long as the size fits, and they’re compa ble
with magnets. Most o en the coins are even
cheaper and widely available than the plas c
bases one may find in the shops! And of course,
as you can see from the picture on the previ-
ous page, the stand can be decorated and s ll
retains its magne c capabili es.
As if this was not enough, this technique comes
very useful also to all those people who prefer to
move their Warhammer 40K infantry units as a
single block, instead of man-by-man. We usually
don’t have any problems moving single infantry
units, but anyone looking for a quick solu on to
speed up the movement phase, is now fulfilled.
Link
In this sec on are listed some websites where
is possible to find some good 6mm models that
very closely resemble the Warhammer 40,000
ones. Other websites of general purpose are
also included. All links can be clicked.
• Infantry models from this producer
can be used even unmodified to play
Imperial Guard, Tau and Tyranids. Ve-
hicles are also interes ng, but less
adaptable. All the models are metallic:
h p://www.darkrealmminiatures.co.uk/
 PRACTICAL TIPS

• A small selec on of armored humans (ei- • For 3D modeling of simple miniatures we

ther Space Marine or Chaos Space Marine) use the notorious free-so ware Blender. A
and a few tank suitable for Eldar vehicles: bit hard to use in the beginning, but very
h p://www.microworldgames.com/ powerful: h p://www.blender.org/

• THE Necron website. All the infantry you
need is here, or is produced modding these
models. There are also a few vehicles
and a nice selec on of human models
which can be employed as Imperial Guard:
h p://www.exoduswars.com
• Lots of different vehicles and a few ar-
mored units for Tau Ba lesuits. Many
other 6 mm models, depending on your
taste: h p://shop.groundzerogames.net/
• When looking for pre-made scenery this
retailer is a good one, but we usu-
ally prefer to make our own scenery:
h p://6mm.wargaming.info/
• We also uploaded a short 10-minute video-
tutorial to learn all the basics you need to
use Blender: h p://www.youtube.com/
• Once the computer model is complete, we
prefer to print from Shapeways, but other
services may be available in your area or
country: h p://www.shapeways.com/
• We uploaded a simple video to show
some gameplay for Pocket WH40K. You
may want to check it out to have a
good idea of what a game looks like:
h p://www.youtube.com/
• The Pocket WH40K website: BEST WEBSITE
EVER

• And for every other need you can always

ask to: h p://www.ebay.com/

• Magnets. Only one link, but many

others are available to those who
search: h p://www.ebay.com/magne c-
adhesive-sheet

• If you think that making your own

bases can cause some errors in the
measurements, this website will
give you exactly what you need:
h p://www.litko.net/BMaker/

• In some tutorials we men on unusual ma-

terials. This is the website from which
we order most components. It is also a
good source for many other tabletop acces-
sories: h p://www.spielmaterial.de

29
 TUTORIALS

Tutorials
Tutorials were made by Levian, Alessar and
Anthea.

Adeptus Custodes

This tutorial is definitely unusual, and I did just

for the fun of it. In the eternal compe on be-
tween ba le brothers is quite common to won- Figure 33
der about who is the strongest brother, or things
like that. Everyone knows that the tac cal space
marine is at the lowest of the scale. Right above
there are the psychic marines, which are ba-
sically marine with psychic powers. But what
next?

Well, somebody may say that the other end

of the scale is, or was, the Emperor itself, but
what is in-between? Probably the Adeptus Cus-
todes, Emperor’s bodyguard and guardians of
the Golden Throne.
Figure 34
Let’s see how to make one with some plas card,
green stuff, and a very steady hand.

1) Manly grab a Space Marine and rip apart his

arms and Requiem. (Figure 33)

2) Make a small green stuff sausage, snake, or

otherwise tubular shape. (Figure 34)

3) Cut a few mm of this tube to make the arm.

Engrave a small line around the wrist. This will
make the hand stand out be er. (Figure 35)

4) Add the arm the the model. Now use a

small bit of green stuff to make the helmet look Figure 35
slightly taller. (Figure 36)

30
 TUTORIALS

Figure 36
Figure 37

5) Use a very thin strip of green stuff to make

the decora ve bristles on the helmet, then with
a lot of a en on, make ny lines along the strip,
to make it look more or less like a horse tail. (Fig-
ure 37-38)

6) Make the second arm like we did the first, and

add to the model. (Figure 39)

7) Cut some plas card pieces as shown in the

picture to build the halberd. Use plas card 0.25
mm thick for the blade and 0.5 mm thick for ev-
erything else. (Figure 40-41)
Figure 38
8) Put the halberd where it belongs. In the Ma-
rine hands. (Figure 42)

9) With a thin foil of green stuff make the man-

tle, paying a en on to the shoulderpads. The
mantle should not cover them, but should start
right below. (Figure 43)

10) Sculp ng is over! Time for the color. (Figure

44-45)

Figure 39

31
 TUTORIALS

Figure 40 Figure 43

Figure 41 Figure 44

Figure 42 Figure 45

32
 TUTORIALS

Catacomb Command Barge /

Annihilation barge

The tutorial will show you how to create a two-

fold Necron vehicle: the Command Barge / An-
nihila on Barge. To make two vehicles in one we
will build the same chassis for both, then we will
apply a magne c plate on top to shi between a
commander module and a cannon module. The
same method is also explained in the Rhino / Ra-
zorback tutorial (page 54). Figure 46

1) For this tutorial we will need a plas c disc,

cardboard or plas card 1 mm thick, green stuff
and two 6 mm Praetorians. (Figure 46)

2) Cut away a slice of roughly 120° from a plas-

c disk. Take two Pariahs and cut away their
blades. Glue them laying on the lower side of
the disc sector. They will be the pilots. If you
want to save up some space you can also cut
away some pieces of the base and legs. (Figure
47)

3) As for the next step, I used 1 mm thick card-

Figure 47
board to make the tail of the vehicle, but plas-
card will suit be er, either one layer of 1 mm
thick, or two layers of 0.5 mm thick plas card.
Now comes the sculp ng part. Take your green
stuff and shape all the other components. The
be er you are at sculp ng, the nicer will be the
final look. You can see the pieces required in
the picture below. The rib cage comes from the
WHFB Skeleton warriors sprue, and will be part
of the Annihila on Barge cannon; if you don’t
plan using the Annihila on Barge, you can skip
on that component. (Figure 48)

4) A er drying all the components, I filed the Figure 48

surfaces to make them smoother and more

33
 TUTORIALS

Figure 49
Figure 50
edgy. Then I glued all the components together,
as shown in the picture, and I put a small piece
of flat magnet on top of the vehicle. I also cut
out the base for the vehicle from cardboard: 1.2
cm diameter, round. The whole complex was
then mounted on top of the base and slightly
lted to highlight the pilots. (Figure 49-50)

5) I then glued a small piece of metal under the

modified rib cage (cannon, only for Annihila on
Barge). (Figure 51)

6) Finally painted the miniature and I glued a

small transparent green plas c piece in front of Figure 51
the rib cage, for the main cannon of the Anni-
hila on barge. The green plas c was obtained
from the 28 mm Necron Warrior Gauss Flayer.
This mul -vehicle is finally complete. For the
Command barge simply put your commander
miniature on top of the magnet, or, if you have
spare 6 mm Necron commanders, just use the
upper halve of the miniature. (Figure 52-??)

Dark Eldar Raider

In this tutorial we will see how to build a Dark Figure 52

Eldar Raider with plas card and a bit of green

34
 TUTORIALS

stuff. The abbrevia ons used are: PS50 = plas -

card 0.5 mm; PS25 = plas card 0.25 mm.

1) Before we start building it’s a good idea to

take paper and pencil, and calculate the cor-
rect dimensions; a couple of simple drawings
will help ge ng the right size too. When the
planning part is over, we can use the blueprints
to cut out the base using PS50. (Figure 53)

2) Let’s start with the first big pieces. Always us-

ing PS50, cut two of them. (Figure 54)
Figure 53
3) Glue the sides as shown in the picture, then
cut out the bridge and glue again. Always PS50.
(Figure 55)

4) Now close the rear of the vehicle with a small

rail, this me using PS25. Do the same for the
rear-bo om wall. (Figure 56)

5) Now cut and glue with PS50 the two front

sides, as shown in the picture. The new pieces
should touch each other only on the very edge.
(Figure 57)

6) Use a small PS25 triangle to close the p. (Fig-

Figure 54
ure 58)

7) Another small triangle will cons tute the

floor for the front gunner. (Figure 59)

8) The vehicle is now in need of more volume:

let’s use a slightly smaller PS50 base under the
former to fix it. (Figure 60)

9) The sail can be made using a single piece of

PS25, the masts are added later, using thin strips
of PS25 for the ones on the sail, and PS50 for
the main mast. The front spear was made with
a thin triangle, and glued on a small rectangle.
The complex was then glued on the front of the Figure 55
Raider. (Figure 61)

35
 TUTORIALS

Figure 56 Figure 59

Figure 57 Figure 60

Figure 58 Figure 61

36
 TUTORIALS

Figure 62
Figure 63
10) The next part is probably quite hard if you
want to use the same amount of detail I used. I
built the connec on between the mast and the
bridge, and the respec ve support with PS25
small strips; you can see the result in the picture.
I also cut a very small spear of PS50 and a ached
it to the front to make the rostrum. (Figure 62)

11) Now it’s me to put the Raider on its stand,

and glue various ”sharp extrusions”, to make a
real Dark Eldar vehicle out of it. (Figure 63-64)

12) Add a few more ny bits to the spear, for the Figure 64
same reason. (Figure 65)

13) More details, skulls and spears using a com-

bina on of plas card s cks and green stuff. The
rostrum is also completed by gluing together
three PS25 triangles. (Figure 66)

14) We also need rear engines, made of green

stuff. (Figure 67)

15) And finally we can add the crew! I used

three Eldar Guardians without base. (Figure 68-
69)

The Dark Eldar Raider, with a bit of paint, is now Figure 65

complete! (Figure ??-??)

37
 TUTORIALS

Figure 66 Figure 69

Figure 67 Figure 70

Figure 68 Figure 71

38
 TUTORIALS

Destroyer Lord

This super easy tutorial comes straight from the

Tomb Worlds! In this guide we show how to as-
semble a full Necron Destroyer Lord!

1) Let’s start from a Canoptek Scarab taken from

the Necron Warrior box of Warhammer 40K.
(Figure 72)

2) Cut the head off a single scarab and file the

cut for a smooth look. (Figure 73)
Figure 72
3) Now the base. For an accurate rescaling the
base size should be 12 mm in diameter (round),
but I went for 10 mm in order to get a more con-
sistent size with the scarab. The material is ei-
ther plas card, hard cardboard or anything else.
(Figure 74)

4) The body of the Necron Lord is an Edenite sol-

dier from Steel Crown. Cut the miniature’s leg
away and keep his lower torso, then file and glue
on the Scarab. The pole for the flyer base is, a
piece of transparent plas c, 4-5 mm high. (Fig-
ure 75)
Figure 73
When the sculp ng is finished, paint with the
colors of the kings! I used a 50/50 mix of gold
and silver as star ng point.

Your Destroyer Lord is ready to take back his

reign! For extra refinement you may want to
add some details on the front, where there is
the flat region, by sculp ng some metal plates
with green stuff, or anything else suits you.

Doom Scythe

The Necron Doom Scythe is both an impressive Figure 74

vehicle and a very easy one to build, as it will be

39
 TUTORIALS

Figure 75
Figure 76
explained in this tutorial. Remember that plas-
card can a good subs tute to most materials.

1) Start by cu ng off a slice from a round disk

of plas c. A er the base is ready, glue on it a
Necron Lord (we bought it from Steel Crown)
with the p of his halberd cut away. This model
will be the pilot. (Figure 76)

2) Use green stuff to shape most of the vehicle’s

body and the wings. For the lower weapons a
couple of quivers from WHFB Skeletons will do,
and s cking them to a single cube of green stuff
will make it easier to a ach them onto the body Figure 77
and s cking the flying pole at the end of the tu-
torial. (Figure 77)

3) The spine was simply made with a piece of

steel wire, properly carved in a few points to
make it rough and look like a group of verte-
brae. The overall structure was glued on a piece
of sprue (the pole) and on a 15 mm cardboard
disc (the base); plas card can be used in place
of both. For a final refining, pa ent and care-
ful filing was fundamental to give the Scythe a
more edgy look. (Figure 78)

4) Pain ng, along with a piece of green transpar- Figure 78

ent plas c from any 28 mm Necron box, makes

40
 TUTORIALS

Figure 79
Figure 80

up for a lot of smaller details. (Figure 79)

Doomsday Ark

This tutorial will show you how to obtain quickly

and with very li le effort a good proxy of a
Doomsday Ark. I think is important to highlight
the fact that this tutorial, as some of my others,
are mostly intended to get the miniature in the
shortest me possible to be able to play it min-
utes a er deciding the army list, so the quality Figure 81
of the miniature is actually pre y simple and the
final product resembles a Doomsday Ark more
than it actually ”is” a Doomsday Ark.

1) I started by gluing together some plas c discs

20 mm in diameter and using some bits from the
WHFB Khemri skeletons. (Figure 80)

2) To create some spacing between the plas c

discs I used li le paper pieces. (Figure 81)

3) Arrow quivers were used as cannons on the

sides, the p of a saber was glued on the front
of the Ark. Half a Necron Lord was glued on the
back of the ark, along with a standard 28 mm Figure 82
skeleton torso, to make the driver posi on. In

41
 TUTORIALS
Figure 83
the back to refine the overall structure I used
some green stuff and thin cardboard (in lack of
plas card). Finally the Ark was li ed on the
base, roughly 1 cm in diameter. (Figure 82)
4) A er a (very) quick pain ng the Doomsday
Ark is finally ready to face the enemy! (Figure
83)
Dark Eldar Mandrakes
The Dark Eldar units incarnate exactly the type
of warriors I prefer: agile, fast, deadly, and pos-
sibly nice looking. Among all, I prefer the Man-
drakes: shrouded in mystery and maybe linked
to the daemonic forces, feared even by their
Dark Eldar fellows. Unfortunately there is noth-
ing on the market in the 6 mm range similar
to them... Anyway, armed with determina on,
and pa ence, I tried and managed to sculpt
them directly from green stuff. Here I show you
how I achieved a unit of Dark Eldar Mandrakes!
Be warned though that this is a pre y hard tuto-
rial, and requires quite a deal of sculp ng skills
and crea vity. Experience will give you both.
42
Figure 84
1) Star ng from nothing is pre y hard, and to
help me I used some metal wire to shape the ini-
al skeleton. Working at such small dimensions,
this task provided itself fairly difficult, and sadly
I don’t have pictures of it. I started sculp ng
from the bo om: feet, legs, torso, etc... up to
the head; instead of adding all the details from
the beginning, I worked in layers, repea ng the
bo om-up sculp ng some mes. (Figure 84)
2) I had lots of trouble with the arms, since
the wire that supports them was already very
thick, and I couldn’t add any more green stuff
to it without giving the arms an dispropor on-
ate look; for this miniature, the arms are sim-
ply painted, unshaped metal... Anyway, I kept
working on it, making a small ”thing” of green
stuff for the flame, and using a flat piece of plas-
c for the sword. (Figure 85)
3) A er some me, and improved experience,
I tried to make a second miniature, this me
without using metal wire, and simply looking
at the previous one as model. In this case I
was able to shape properly the arms. Flame
and weapon, once again, were added only later.
(Figure 86)
 TUTORIALS

Figure 85 Figure 88

Figure 86 Figure 89

Figure 87 Figure 90

43
 TUTORIALS

4) S ll, this procedure takes A LOT of me and Marks: Sick green-Sunburst yellow mixture
effort, if one wants to make many of them, so
I had to figure out a way to make this process Belt: Dark fleshtone (vallejo)
faster. And here is the solu on! (Figure 87)
Here you can see the actual dimensions. (Figure
5) Using very few green stuff and the second 90)
miniature as model, I made a li le mold. In this
way, I could replicate the basic structure of the
Mandrake in ”no- me” (green stuff takes me
to dry). A er the clone was ready, I could sim- Necron Monolith
ply rearrange the arms and weapons every me,
and get a very nice variety of miniatures! To
In this tutorial we are going to see how to create
avoid the green stuff of the mold from s cking
a basic shape that resembles a Necron Mono-
to the miniature I first smeared the Mandrake
lith. The so ware used for this tutorial is Tinker-
with a li le cooking oil. Once the first half of the
cad, and the 3D prin ng service is Shapeways.
mold was ready, I covered this one with oil too,
You can find links to both in the Link sec on
then applied the green stuff to make the second
(page 28). The result of this tutorial is shown
half of the mold. (Figure 88)
in figure 91)
6) This me to make the weapons I used the
thinnest plas card available, instead of junk The minimum precision (resolu on) required
plas c. (Figure 89) for this model is 1 mm, meaning that any detail
smaller than 1 mm is not going to be printed (or
And that’s it! There is really nothing more to it, printed properly, for the ma er...).
except pain ng. The color scheme I used is this:
The dimensions of the final miniature should be
Basecoat: Black
approximately as follows: width at the base =
Skin: Shadow grey (drybrushed), then black 3.6 cm; height: 4.2 cm.
wash

Legs: Earth (vallejo), then earth-black mixture

wash, then highlighted details with earth-skull
white mixture

Hair: Skull white, then black wash, then Skull

white highlights

Blade: Boltgun metal

Flame: Sick green (vallejo), then wash Sick

green-black mixture, then highlight using Sick
green, then highlight Sunburst yellow Figure 91

44
 TUTORIALS

Since Tinkercad is no longer available, we sug-

gest to use Blender instead. More on this in the
Link sec on at page 28.

1) Let’s start crea ng a pyramid with 3.6 cm as

base length and rising it un l we get the appro-
priate slope (5 to 6 cm high). Create now an
empty cube overlapping it with the pyramid 5
mm above the work plane. Select them both
and group them to get our star ng block. (Fig-
ure 92)

2) Copy the block created, paint it red, and li

Figure 92
it up at roughly 24 mm from the workplane.
Turn upside down (180°) the lower base (yel-
low). Create a new pyramid (orange) and fit it’s
base on the lower base, as shown in the pic-
ture, then increase it’s height un l you get a nice
slope and the pyramid is inside the red block.
(Figure 93)

3) Keep ”pulling up” the pyramid un l it’s sides

nearly match the red block’s sides, then cut
away the pyramid’s p (with an empty cube as
we did in the first step), and group all the items
together to get the body of the pyramid (see pic-
ture). (Figure 94) Figure 93

4) Copy this en re block and using two empty

cubes cut away the slope from two sides as in
the picture (black block in the lower right area).
Remember to keep this black piece on the side,
as we’re going to need it also later. Shrink the
black component to the dimension you prefer,
then place it on top of the monolith’s body (gray
block); copy the piece three mes and turn it ev-
ery me to make the other three upper black
corners. When placing the corners on top of
the body do not match the edges, but place
the black components 1mm inwards. Now that
we have the four upper corners we can place a Figure 94

45
 TUTORIALS

Figure 95 Figure 96

green crystal on top of the Monolith. The crystal

should be around 7-9 mm high. (Figure 95)

5) Using the black piece we le aside, copy it

and cut only a thin slice of it (using two empty
cubes). Tilt this slice of roughly 20° and pull
it un l reaches the same height of Monolith +
crystal. Now place two of these pieces and on
a bit larger(twice the width). Tilt each of this
pieces 5° in the back. Look at the picture to get
it right. (Figure 96)

6) Using an empty cube (8 mm wide) carve the Figure 97

wall where the round portal will be placed; in it’s
most shallow part (at the top) the carving should
be 1 mm deep. Using a disk 1 mm thick and 8
mm in diameter create the portal by encasing
the disk in the carving we just made; leave some
space between the disk and the workplane. As
last step, use four small parallelepiped (red) 3
mm wide and 1 mm high to make the guns at
the four corners of the pyramid. (Figure 97)

7) Now, the Monolith looks finished, but if we

present this simple blueprint to a prin ng ser-
vice the price will be quite high, due to the
amount of material needed. To cut down the Figure 98

46
 TUTORIALS

Figure 100
Figure 99

price, just carve the inside of the monolith with

a truncated square pyramid hole. (Figure 98)

8) We suggest to try and put more details, within

the limita ons of the 3D printer. A lot more is
possible with 3D modeling, and we encourage
you to keep prac cing and trying. High quality
miniatures can be easily produced. Also remem-
ber that your printed model price will be propor-
onal to the amount of material needed! Don’t
make bulky blocks unless they are fundamental.
(Figure 99) Figure 101

Mycetic Spore

Myce c spores don’t have an official miniature,

so the following conversion is just our simple
way to build one star ng with a very small
amount of Tyranid bits. Any bit will fit.

1) Cut a 15 mm round base from plas card or

thick cardboard. If you think that the miniature
will be too heavy or big for the typical 0.6 mm
magnet you can make the en re base out of a 1 Figure 102
mm thick magnet. This solu on is handy also for

47
 TUTORIALS

Figure 104
Figure 103

flying vehicles and other monstrous creatures.

(Figure 100)

2) Glue on the base a plas c gem. Such gems

can be found in most trinket shops, and most
likely in any house. (Figure 101)

3) Using green stuff sculpt some basic organic

stuff around the crystal. here you can see an
extremely simple shell-like shield and some or-
ganic remains of the spore a er its opening.
Make as more grooves, cracks and holes as pos-
Figure 105
sible, as they will help later when pain ng with
inks/washes. Glue also the Tyranid bits you see
1) In the picture you can see the star ng ma-
more fit for the purpose. (Figure 102)
terials: a 6 mm vehicle from Epic Armageddon,
some Skaven shields, a broken 6 mm Ork with
4) The spore is complete, and it just needs some
rokkit launcha, an orc’s skull from Warhammer
pain ng. Make sure that you use a wash that
Fantasy and some pieces of cardboard. (Figure
will make it look wounded and bleeding, like the
104)
red and black one I used here. (Figure 103)
I glued one shield in front of the vehicle, with the
ork s cking out behind it, and one in the back,
Ork Trukk along with some addi onal bits of plas c. The
ork is now a gunner! (Figure 105)

Please note that this tutorial is older than the di- Some cardboard was added in the end to make
nosaurs, and therefore its pictures look like crap. a more coherent chassis and hide smaller de-

48
 TUTORIALS

Figure 106 Figure 107

tails. The head of a Warhammer Fantasy ork was

glued in front of the vehicle to show off who’s da
boss! (Figure 106)

Razorwing

In this tutorial we describe the full construc on

of a 6 mm Dark Eldar Razorwing, using only plas-
card and green stuff. The abbrevia ons used
are: PS50 = plas card 0.5 mm; PS25 = plas card Figure 108
0.25 mm.

1) As usual for every full design, it’s a good idea

to draw our model, in order to take vision of
all its components and get the right dimensions.
(Figure 107)

2) Cut the body of the Razorwing using PS50. Do

not include the wings in this first shape because
they are lted with respect to the body, and will
require addi onal steps later on. (Figure 108)

3) We want to provide this flyer with some mass.

Cut two PS50 stripes and glue them on top of the Figure 109
body, one on top of the other. (Figure 109)

49
 TUTORIALS

Figure 110 Figure 113

Figure 111 Figure 114

Figure 112 Figure 115

50
 TUTORIALS

4) Once the bulk is ready, we want to shape the

cockpit. Use smooth pieces of green stuff as
shown in the picture. For this step I made the
green stuff pieces directly on the vehicle. (Fig-
ure 110)

5) For the wings use PS50. Try to make them as

similar as possible. Ideally, they should be ex-
actly the same. (Figure 111)

6) in order to check the correct shape for the

wings, just superimpose the body to them.
Figure 116
Don’t glue them yet. (Figure 112)

7) Now we need to add even more mass to

the body. Cut another PS50 strip and glue it
on top of the previous two. The edges of this
strip should be bent in order to fit between the
”spine” and the turbines. The main turbines and
the smaller ones are made of green stuff. A
tube, and a bit of carving. For the smaller ones
I also used a small chip of PS50 to make the p
of the turbine. It’s also about me we make a
second layer of green stuff on the cockpit. The
final look should be smooth as in the picture. A
bit of carving for the details, of course. (Figure Figure 117
113)

8) Another layer of green stuff on the cockpit!

Now it should look like a single block. (Figure
114)

9) It’s about me we add the wings to the body.

We want the wings to be lted symmetrically, so
we’re not going to use glue, but green stuff. Two
small pieces. (Figure 115)

10) Now s ck the wings underneath the body.

In the picture you can also see some green stuff
details I added to the turbines. I also used a very Figure 118
small amount of green stuff to smooth out a cor-

51
 TUTORIALS

ner or two of the plas card components. (Fig-

ure 116)

11) Keep an eye on the symmetry of the wings,

un l the green stuff is properly solidified. Any
means to suspend the model will help enor-
mously here. (Figure 117)

12) Now that the wings are fixed, we can

strengthen them with a bit of glue, and shape
some green stuff on top, in order to make the
connec on between the body and the wings
less evident. (Figure 118) Figure 119

13) Like before, symmetry is paramount. (Figure

119)

14) Build a long ”box-like” structure underneath

the body, as shown in picture. It will give even
more volume. (Figure 120)

15) Cut two iden cal ”blades” and add them on

top of the two main turbines. Symmetrically, of
course. (Figure 121)

16) And another blade on top of the main body.

(Figure 122)
Figure 120
17) The model is reasonably ok, but this me I
wanted some advanced finishing: missiles! Cre-
ate the holders under the wings using very small
chips of PS50. (Figure 123)

18) For the missiles I used small plas c tubes

with a highly explosive green stuff p. Full green
stuff would work as well, of course. (Figure 124)

19) Load the weapons. With glue. (Figure 125)

20) Two PS50 strips will become the forward

weapon array. (Figure 126)

21) More details, and the model is complete! Figure 121

(Figure 127)

52
 TUTORIALS

Figure 122 Figure 125

Figure 123 Figure 126

Figure 124 Figure 127

53
 TUTORIALS

Figure 131
Figure 128

Once based and painted, the Razorwing should

look like this. (Figure 128-131)

Rhino to Razorback and viceversa

In this tutorial we explain a very common and

handy conversion for Space Marine players:
how to set up a Rhino to become a Razorback
and back without effort! All we need is a li le
green stuff, a very small magnet (fridge magnet,
possibly), and a small piece of metal. And of
Figure 129
course a 6 mm Rhino.

1) First, we need to build the main body of the

weapon system of your choice for the Razor-
back. Remember to leave some space in the
lower part of it, to add the metal later on. Keep
in mind that you can also cut dried green stuff
and use it as star ng material, instead of so
one. Here for example I first made a cylinder of
it, let it dry, and cut the two guns from it, easily
glued on the weapon body. I also used a li le
amount of plas card on the guns and improved
the look of the heavy bolter on the front of the
Figure 130 vehicle, but these are op onal minor improve-
ments. (Figure 132).

54
 TUTORIALS

Figure 132 Figure 135

Figure 133 Figure 136

Figure 134 Figure 137

55
 TUTORIALS

2) When you are sa sfied with your weapon de-

sign s ck the piece of metal available under the
weapon system (I used pieces of very thin metal
wire, the only thing at hand...). (Figure 133).

3) Remember to s ck a magnet on top of your

Rhino of course! If at this point the look of the
complex is too bulky for you, it might be use-
ful some fla ening and filing of the upper sur-
face of the Rhino. Honestly, we don’t think this
should be necessary at all, and avoiding fla en-
ing keeps the Rhino-Razorback a two-in-one ve-
Figure 138
hicle. (Figure 134).

4) The conversion is now complete, and you can

paint it as a whole. As you can see the weapon
module can be detached or a ached at will to
turn the Razorback into Rhino and back! (Figure
135-136).

5) It’s also perfectly stable even when turned up-

side down. (Figure 137).

The same concept can be used to make pre y

much all the box-like Space Marine vehicles.

Figure 139

Screamers of Tzeench

In this tutorial we show how to shape some

Screamers of Tzeench. These miniatures were
en rely constructed with green stuff, which is
probably the best material to make them. To
work the green stuff either a toothpick or bare
hands were used; sculp ng tools make every-
thing a lot easier though.

1) First of all you have to create the basic shape.

It’s easier if you create a sketchy cone and then
model the wings on each side. I used a GW Dae- Figure 140
mone e near them to compare their size: the

56
 TUTORIALS

Figure 141 Figure 142

Screamers are approximately 0.8 cm x 1.5 cm

with tail, 0.8 X 1.0 cm without. (Figure 138)
2) Let them dry then make the fangs (2-4 on
each model). This is the difficult part; be pa-
ent, take your me, and if you are not con-
tent with the result then remove them and start
again. With a li le prac ce they will be just fine.
I then added a bit of sand on the surface to cre-
ate some texture. (Figure 139)
3) Now it’s me for the eyes! You can simply skip
this part and just paint them later, but I decided
to make them with green stuff. Create ny balls
and then put them on the top of the head press-
ing the edges with a toothpick to create a funny
texture around the eyes and to s ck the eyes to
the body. (Figure 140)
Soulgrinder
1) For this conversion I started using compo-
nents from the Khemri skeletons of WHFB. I
used a skeleton’s head, a pair of horns, four
spear ps (for the legs) and the black sprue used
for bases. (Figure 142-143)
2) The black sprue was cut diagonally at the
”knees” where the ps of the spears were glued
to make the legs. The head was then a ached
to the black sprue and the horns were put on
top of it. Finally, for the arms, I opted for some
WHFB dwarf miners weapons, to give it an un-
usual and ”dwarfish” look. (Figure 144)
3) Finally, pain ng red and black fills up all the
chaos theme I need to play the Soulgrinder!
(Figure 145)

4) Finally I shaped a li le spine and I fixed a bit

the tail. For the spine make a li le snake with
green stuff, place it on top of the model then
press the edges and li the middle with a tooth-
pick un l you are sa sfied with the shape. This
is my the final result. (Figure 141)
Stormraven Gunship
Most recent Warhammer vehicles don’t have a
6 mm counterpart, and this is especially true
for flying ones, with very few excep ons. The

57
 TUTORIALS

Figure 143 Figure 146

Stormraven is not one of such excep ons, and

in this tutorial we will see how to make one.

For this we will need the following: plas card

0.25 mm (PC25 from now on), plas card 0.5 mm
(PC50 from now on), green stuff, glue, transpar-
ent plas c (for the pole), plas card 1 mm (op-
onal, I did not use it) (PC1 from now on)

1) We shall start on paper. With a Thunder-

hawk and some other models at hand, I scaled
down the original measures of the Stormraven,
which are approximately the following (Figure
146): length = 5 cm, wingspan = 5 cm, height
Figure 144 at the front = 1.5 cm, height at the top sha = 2
cm.

2) Now that we have an idea of the size, we can

copy the shape of the body on PC25, excluding
the tail. (Figure 147)

3) Cut out the shape. Make two of them: one

for each side. (Figure 148)

4) With an addi onal strip of PC25 glue the

pieces together as in the picture, to get a box
roughly 3cm long. (Figure 149)

5) Now it’s me to cut on PC50 the profiles that

Figure 145
will go on the sides of the box. (Figure 150)

58
 TUTORIALS

Figure 147 Figure 150

Figure 148 Figure 151

Figure 149 Figure 152

59
 TUTORIALS

6) Make four of them and glue two on each side,

to get an extrusion of 1mm per side. If you want
you can use only one layer of PC1 instead, to
save up me and efforts. (Figure 151)

Also cut a rectangle of PC50 and glue it on top

of the box. This will be the base of the cockpit.

Add a few thin PC50 strips to the front.

7) Now we want to create the extrusions that

will give the illusion of a dedicated space for
the frontal landing gear, either with four PC50 Figure 153
pieces, or two PC1. (Figure 152)

8) The tail is very easy, and we can make it from

two PC50 pieces (or one PC1), by cu ng a “fin”.
Something like the one in the picture. (Figure
153)

We are also going to prepare the forward

weapons slots: glue a slightly raised thin strip
of PC50, just in the lower part of the base of the
cockpit (more visible in the next picture).

9) Let’s add some plas card strips as weapons,

and some more details in the front. (Figure 154)
Figure 154
10) Here comes probably the hardest part of the
tutorial: the wings. Using PC50 cut out four
pieces for each wing. The shapes are shown
in the picture. Assemble the wings separately
from the body. The smaller piece will connect
the wing with the body. (Figure 155)

11) Now glue the wings to the body, trying to

keep symmetry as much as possible. The wings
will fall off very easily, so be pa ent, stubborn,
and generous with glue. Later on we will add
the reactors, and the wings will be much more
sturdy. (Figure 156)
Figure 155
12) Add the wing tail. (Figure 157)

60
 TUTORIALS

13) In the same way used for the frontal sup-

ports, build extrusions 1 mm thick for the rear
supports. (two PC50 or one PC1 for each side).
(Figure 158)

Also shape four green stuff micro reactors and

glue them on the front supports.

14) Let’s now build a box around the reactors

using PC25. Also assemble and glue the front
legs using small strips of PC50. (Figure 159)

Figure 156 15) Time to build the cockpit. Cut a small trapez-
ium and glue it standing on the lower part of the
cockpit base; I used this piece as a reference for
the other cockpit parts. Cut a strip of plas card
and bend it in mul ple points to shape the pro-
file of the cockpit, in the same way as in the pic-
ture, then glue it and add also the side compo-
nents. (Figure 160-161)

16) More weapons! This me we’re going to

build the side arrays. Simply cut a small rectan-
gle that will hold them, and many small strips.
(Figure 162)

Figure 157 17) Glue. (Figure 163)

18) Now close the array building a PC25 box

around the guns. (Figure 164)

19) Now glue two of such arrays inside the re-

cesses on the sides. (Figure 165)

20) Using PC25 build a box that will be the top

turret, then glue. (Figure 166)

21) For the rear legs we need some planning:

first, draw each component we’ll need on the
PC50, as in picture. (Figure 167)

Figure 158 22) Now cut them and glue them together, as in
picture. (Figure 168)

61
 TUTORIALS

Figure 159 Figure 162

Figure 160 Figure 163

Figure 161 Figure 164

62
 TUTORIALS

23) Finally we can a ach the rear supports in the

places we have prepared before. (Figure 169)

24) Enlarge the region between the main body

and the tail with two proto-wings. To make
them use two layers of PC50 or one of PC1. (Fig-
ure 170)

25) For the weapons on the turret I used green

stuff to avoid making the small plas card boxes,
and made the cannons with very small plas c
pipes. Here anything else will do. (Figure 171)
Figure 165
26) Shape the two main reactors using two
tubes of green stuff that will fit under the wings.
Use a sharp pencil to produce the holes in the
front and in the back. You can also use some
plas card pieces to add more decora ons. (Fig-
ure 172)

I also made two more side-reactors on the

wings, using the same technique described in
steps 13 and 14, and I added a thin PC25 frame
around the cockpit, to make it stand out.

27) Now build the main air sha right behind

Figure 166 the top turret, as any other box. Use only PC25.
(Figure 173)

28) The Stormraven is now ready, and you can

either keep adding more details and decora-
ons, or start pain ng straight away. (Figure
174-175)

For the pole I used some transparent thin plas-

c, and for the base PC50. Many details for this
Stormraven were simply painted, and the effect
is just right! (Figure 176-??)

I built and painted the en re miniature in 5 (five)

Figure 167 days, and this is the first model en rely based on
plas card I have made so far, so it’s naturally full

63
 TUTORIALS

Figure 168 Figure 171

Figure 169 Figure 172

Figure 170 Figure 173

64
 TUTORIALS

Figure 177
Figure 174

Figure 178

Figure 175 of small defects. To me, making this miniature

was funny and some mes a bit stressful, but in
the end I think it was worth it. I recommend to
try this tutorial to anyone who likes to build his
own models. A 6 mm Stormraven is Awesome!!

Talos Pain Engine

1) Star ng from a Space marine shoulder pad.

Make some carvings or simple sculp ng with
green stuff. (Figure 179)

Figure 176 2) Take an Ogre arm and remove all but the fore-
arm. The forearm is going to be the upper part

65
 TUTORIALS

Figure 179
Figure 180
of the body. (Figure 180-181)

3) Glue together the two components. (Figure

182)

4) Refine with green stuff to make up for the

other components in the lower part of the body.
(Figure 183-184)

5) Take a Dark Elf head and remove everything

with the excep on of the elm. This is going to
be the base of the tail. (Figure 185-186)

6) What is le now to do is a very basic sculpt-

Figure 181
ing work to make for what is le of the body,
arms, head, tail and so on... it is easier to sculpt
the tail using some wire as support. All the fin-
gers, spikes, blades etc were made using plas -
card 0.25 mm thick. A small piece of transpar-
ent plas c was employed for the flying pole. Re-
member that you can sculpt the single compo-
nents, let them dry and then glue them together
instead of sculp ng directly on the model. (Fig-
ure 187)

7) The Space marine shoulder pad was improved

in the end with an addi onal shell of green stuff,
not fundamental, but very nice looking. (Figure Figure 182
188)

66
 TUTORIALS

Figure 183 Figure 186

Figure 187
Figure 184

Figure 185 Figure 188

67
 TUTORIALS

Sculp ng tools were fundamental throughout

the en re sculp ng process.

The components used were bits of 28 mm units

that I reckoned useful for this model, but any
other bit can be employed easily. Space Ma-
rine, Ogre or Dark Elf are not strictly necessary,
as long as something similar can be found.

Tau Battlesuit
Figure 189
In this tutorial we are going to assemble an en-
re XV8 Crisis Ba lesuit for the Greater Good,
using exclusively from Green Stuff:

1) Each single component of the Ba lesuit must

be shaped individually. Use cau on and pre-
cision in this step to get the propor ons right.
The body must be a cube-like piece with a lit-
tle sphere on the top; the head-body complex
shouldn’t be higher than 5-6 mm overall. Cre-
ate two slim pieces of green stuff and let them
Figure 190
dry, then use the cu er to shape the feet of
the armor. All the other parts (legs, arms, etc.)
can be made either using so green stuff, or
shaping dry one with the cu er, as you prefer.
Don’t stress yourself trying to sculpt impossible
details. The most important components that
dis nguish a Crisis Ba lesuit are the cube-like
body, the antenna on one side of the head and,
usually, a cube-like jet-pack on the back. Af-
ter you are finished assembling all the Ba lesuit
components, let them dry. (Figure 189)

2) When all the components are completely

dried, carefully assemble the Ba lesuit with
glue. Consider the serious possibility of using
pliers in this step. You can use a hard card- Figure 191
board or plas card circle as base. The standing

68
 TUTORIALS

model should be 10-11 mm high at most; this

size should be respected as closely as possible,
since a few millimeters more will make of this
Ba lesuit an outstanding presence on the bat-
tlefield. The plas c piece that you can see on
the le in the picture will become the jet pack
of the Ba lesuit (a er some filing). (Figure 190)

3) Keep shaping and adding components to the

model, un l you think it looks right. In this case
I added a weapon system on his right arm, a big-
ger weapon system on his le side, and a square Figure 192
block on his chest to increase the ”Crisis”overall
aspect of the miniature. (Figure 191)

Whenever you feel sa sfied with your crea on,

go for the colors!

Tervigon

1) Cut a 13 mm base out of plas card or thick

cardboard. From a mix of bits find the fol-
lowing components (or similar): tyranid ranged
weapon(s), the one from the termagant is per- Figure 193
fect; blades, swords or small talons (in this case
Skaven knives); Lizardmen legs or equally Xenos-
looking limbs. (Figure 192)

2) Using green stuff sculpt the creature’s torso,

which is nothing more than a pre y simple ball
of green stuff adapted to the other component.
A ach to the lower part of the torso the tyranid
weapon’s ”pouch” to make the breeding sack.
A ach the legs, and glue the block to the base.
(Figure 193)

3) Cut the hilt from the swords and glue the

blades to the tyranid arms and hands taken from Figure 194
the ranged weapon. What you should obtain

69
 TUTORIALS

are the massive and very prominent claws. If

you are worried that the talons are out of the
base you can turn them upwards in a leaping
pose. balance issues are going to be compen-
sated by the magnet under the base. (Figure
194)

4)For the head you can either use a lizardmen

head or the remaining bits from the tyranid
weapon. In this case I used the bits, and
sculpted with green stuff the missing part of the
Figure 195 face. (Figure 195)

5) For the final scales on top of the claws I used

very small round balls/discs of green stuff and
put them in a line as shown in the picture, on
the upper side of the blades. (Figure 196-197)

Just one of the many possible ways to make a

Tyranid Tervigon.

Trygon

Figure 196 In this tutorial we’ll see how to create a

6 mm Tyranid’s Trygon star ng from an old
Xenomorph (new Reaper) model, and some bits
of Green Stuff.

1) For this conversion we will use a cu er and

toothpicks or sculp ng tools. The materials re-
quired are green stuff and a Xenomorph model.
Some wire will come handy to improve the
model’s stability while modeling. (Figure 198)

2) As you can see, the future Trygon is too short

right now. It’s just two mes the height of
the poor Space Marine. We’re going to build a
Figure 197 longer green stuff body for the Tyranid. (Figure
199)

70
 TUTORIALS

Figure 198 Figure 201

Figure 199 Figure 202

Figure 200 Figure 203

71
 TUTORIALS

3) First, cut away the lowest sec on of the

Xenomorph body with the cu er. (Figure 200)

4) To make the base just cut a simple oval from

hard cardboard or plas card with the major axis
of 2.7 cm and the minor axis of 2.0 cm. Cut
a 2 cm-long piece of wire and cover it with a
serpent-shaped piece of green stuff. You may
want to use at least 2 cm of wire, to make the
Trygon look impressive. Remember: the longer
is the Trygon, the longer is the wire! A er cov-
ering the wire with green stuff, glue it to the
Figure 204
Tyranid’s body, and glue the p of the tail at its
end. (Figure 201-202)

5) Now, as you can see in the picture, the

Tyranid has the right dimension (roughly 2.5 cm
in height). Be careful not to make it longer than
3 cm, or it’ll look really enormous! (Figure 203)

6) At this point we need to add some extra claws.

Cut away the arms from another Xenomorph
model, or make some new ones from green
stuff. Use much cau on when using the cu er; I
know from my own experience that it can be re-
ally painful when used improperly. (Figure 204-
Figure 205
205)

7) It’s me to glue the arms. Help yourself with

addi onal green stuff to fill the gaps. Remem-
ber! The Trygon has six arms, like all Tyranids!
(Figure 206)

8) Glue some small magnets under the base of

the model un l you’re sure that they will hold
the weight of the model properly before moving
on to the following step. (Figure 207)

9) Now it comes the hardest part: the poste-

rior carapace. For this you’ll need a layer of pre-
Figure 206 hardened green stuff. Cut some small triangu-
lar pieces out of it, the scales, and glue each of

72
 TUTORIALS

Figure 207 Figure 210

Figure 208 Figure 211

Figure 209 Figure 212

73
 TUTORIALS

Figure 213
Figure 214

them on the back of Trygon, star ng from the

lowest scale un l you reach the preexis ng line
of scales. Try to scale them for greater looks.
(Figure 208-209)

10) The last piece, the uppermost scale, should

have a ”V”-like shape instead of a triangular one,
to seamlessly melt with the last of the preexist-
ing scales. (Figure 210)

11) The Trygon has also an extra pair of fangs

on the sides of the mouth. To make them take
the pieces required from a Xenomorph model,
Figure 215
or simply use some more green stuff. To im-
prove the precision consider using some pliers.
(Figure 211-212)

12) Complete the Trygon with the addi on of

some side spikes, made out of green stuff, mod-
eled in the shape of very thin needles. Use
much care when gluing these spikes due to their
diminu ve size, and consider using pliers here as
well. (Figure 213-214)

13) The sculp ng of you 6 mm Trygon is now

complete, and you only need to paint it before
you can field it against some puny li le beings!.
Figure 216
(Figure 215-??)

74
 F.A.Q.
F.A.Q.
Q: What is Pocket Warhammer 40K?
A: A completely unofficial conversion of
Warhammer 40K. Instead of 28 mm minia-
tures, it uses cheaper and more abundant
6 mm miniatures in combina on with a
smaller table.
Q: My 6 mm miniatures are glued on stands.
Can I s ll use them?
A: If you are using second-hand miniatures it
is likely that the person before you used
superglue. Many of our miniatures were
bought in such condi ons. Get a pair of
scissors, cut away the stand from the sin-
gle miniatures, and you’ll be soon ready to
go. If you also want to strip any previous
paint with brush and chemicals, make sure
you do it before cu ng away the stand.
Q: Can I skip on metallic board and magnets?
A: No. If you don’t use them, the game will be
unplayable. We warned you.
Q: This Pocket 40K is AWESOME! Can you do
the same for Warhammer Fantasy (WHFB)?
A: The most similar models to play a smaller
scale of WHFB are the miniatures from
Warmaster, another Specialist Game.
Sadly, they are twice as big compared
to Epic miniatures (10mm scale), and
the game surface is s ll very big. There
are many other companies selling 6 mm
fantasy miniatures that you can adapt. We
don’t think it’s worth the effort, and we
like 40K more. But maybe in the future...
76
Q: Ok, no WHFB, but what about a larger scale
for Pocket? Something between 10 and
15mm?
A: That, would be awesome. The right com-
promise between size and detail! Sadly,
there is no way to make WH40K easily in
such scale. Some people have managed
to make one or two armies, but they were
completely proxed and definitely not re-
producible given the low availability of the
miniatures they used. To them all our ad-
mira on. Those who want an easier alter-
na ve should s ck to 6 mm.
Q: Hey! I know of some people who did this
before of you!
A: We are not the first, that is true. But we have
started an en re website based on the
idea, so we’re 10.000 mes more badass
than anyone else. Seriously now. If you,
or someone you know, did something sim-
ilar to this, you can contact us to share your
crea ons or basically anything else. We re-
ally like to include everyone’s works!
Q: How do you dis nguish between models
with different equipment, especially Impe-
rial Guard infantry?
A: The answer can be long enough to write an
en re ar cle, which is what we did at page
17. Also remember that ”6 mm” is not as
small as it may sound. Most details are well
visible since the game is played si ng at
the table, usually within 50 cm from your
eyes.
Q: Can you send me your computer 3D
blueprints?
 F.A.Q.
A: No. Not at all.
Q: How do you move miniatures with preci-
sion?
A: With a bit of prac ce, and magnets. Not
really much to say here. The introductory
video shows everything you need to know
(page 28). We had no issues with move-
ment.
Q: Would another conversion factor be O.K.?
A: Scaling to a different factor than the one
we report, while maintaining 6 mm minia-
tures, will affect the gameplay in a quite
drama c way. A very detailed ar cle about
this is available at page . In short, with
our conversion you can rest assured that no
change in gameplay will occur as it would
with any other scaling factor.
Q: I’d like to start, but there are no other play-
ers. Solu ons?
A: Brainwashing sounds like a good idea. If it
doesn’t produce posi ve results, you can
try proposing Pocket to Warhammer veter-
ans, which may like the idea of trying some-
thing different, or to newcomers, which
may like the idea of a cheaper start. Most
of the other gamers usually prefer 28 mm.
Q: I want to play Pocket! Which army would
you recommend to start with?
A: If you are familiar with 6 mm miniatures and
modeling, anything that suits your game-
play should be ok. If you’re not, then we
recommend to start with an army having
the least amount of conversions required.
From the easiest to the hardest: Space ma-
rine > Orks > Imperial Guard> Eldar > Chaos
77
> Necron > Tau. Tyranids, Ba le Sisters and
Dark Eldar should be started only by people
who want to make their en re army with-
out buying a single miniature.
Q: The smallest box on sale has too many
miniatures. Where can I find fewer minia-
tures for sale?
A: There is no precise answer to this. We
usually don’t have a problems buying 100
Space Marine, because we are a group of
players which orders miniatures together,
then shares. Either do as we do, look for
second-hand miniatures, or store the ex-
tra in case someone wants to join your
group. Extra miniatures are also a fantas-
c present to prompt people into the vi-
cious circle of wargaming! Playing Epic Ar-
mageddon some mes can also be enter-
taining (page ).
Q: I used magnets, but some of my miniatures
keep falling and moving. What’s wrong?
A: Fridge magnets and the like are not high
quality, uniform magnets, and some mes
they are not as strong as one would ex-
pect. Try with another piece from the same
sheet, cover as much miniature’s base-
surface as possible, or buy your magnets
from a different producer (sugges ons in
the Link sec on on page ). For no rea-
son you should ever use rare earth mag-
nets! Also don’t wet your miniatures, don’t
feed them a er midnight, and never ex-
pose them to sunlight.
Q: What about all the fantas c details of 28 mm
miniatures?
 F.A.Q.

A: Nothing forbids you to have 28 mm minia-

tures (too). We present 6 mm as an alter-
na ve to 28 mm, not as a subs tute, even
though everything ever produced for 40K
can be replaced by its 6 mm clone. We do
collect 28 mm miniatures because we like
some of them, but when it comes to play,
Pocket is our game of choice.

Q: Do you have the support of GW?

A: No. This is a completely unofficial project.

Some people look at us with a mix of admi-
ra on and pity, thinking that we are going
to be shut down somewhere in the future.
If you are among those people than you
be er store this PDF with care, along with
all the useful informa on on our website.
Anyway, we’re doing our best not to harm
GW, and live happily together. Actually, if
Warhammer was crack, Pocket would be its
gateway drug...

78
 GALLERY

Gallery

Black Templars

The Emperor’s Champion finally joins his army, a er all the adequate landing protocols have been
strictly followed.

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 GALLERY

On a sunny day, the peaceful and cold wastes of a rock lost in space are disturbed by the sudden
landing of the Black Templars.

The backup for the infantry is quickly deployed, and soon the less impervious areas are seized under
Marine control.

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The planet is declared safe and free from Xenos!

Quick Black Templar Bikes patrol the regions surrounding the landing sites.

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The crew manning a Predator blasts some mountains, to keep the rust away from the cannon.

On a planet covered with ice wastes, every place is a good place to park a Rhino.

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Blood Angels

A Blood Angel unit with Rhino on a patrol mission among ancient ruins.

A Razorback unit providing cover for the quick deployment of a small combat Squad.

84
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The Sergeant takes posi on for a clear visual.

The unit has found traces of Eldar.

85
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Ranks are taken, in case of an ambush.

The first predator tank to reach the ba lefield. An impressive sight!

86
 GALLERY

Tac cal Squad marching without fear in open ground.

87
 GALLERY

Battle Sisters

This sec on is s ll empty. Anyone can sub-

mit pictures of his miniatures. First comes, first
served.

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Chaos Daemons

This sec on is s ll empty. Anyone can sub-

mit pictures of his miniatures. First comes, first
served.

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 GALLERY

Chaos Space Marine

A unit of Plague Marines is exploring the ruins of an old imperial city.

Khorne Berzerkers swarming in the ruins, following the orders of their leader.

90
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Chaos Raptors in search of enemies from the atop a massive wall.

A Chaos Dreadnought, and his le arm.

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 GALLERY

Land Raiders, having some fun with the Emperor.

Noise Marines, walking in the quiet gardens of a desecrated cathedral.

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 GALLERY

Chaos Terminators, always arriving last.

Leaders. Smalltalk during lunch break.

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 GALLERY

Chaos Conven on 2012.

Chaos cul sts, throwing a wild party around a massive Daemon.

94
 GALLERY

Pocket Berzerkers for the Pocket God!

Recent studies have shown that three Chaos Marine out of nine live on the edge.

95
 GALLERY

Chaos Terminators. Don’t be misled by their mean looks: they have very tender and passionate heart.

Standard Bearer. Poser of the posers.

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 GALLERY

Noise Berzerkers dancing with The Tentacle.

Warpsmith and grazing Chaos Predator next to a quite sorry Emperor statue.

97
 GALLERY

When it comes to tuning, Chaos is always unmatched! Rhino, Vindicator and Standard bearer.

Chaos Marine Sorcerer followed by a Defiler with a dis nct taste for dwarven ar facts.

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Dark Eldar

A dreadful Archon, backed up by Incubi.

The quick Venom skimmer dashes though ruins with unnatural maneuverability.

99
 GALLERY

Kabalite Warriors are assigned to patrol the more defensible loca ons.

The Raider provides a solid transport and support for the ground units. As well as an efficient weapon
pla orm during offense.

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 GALLERY

Tiresome march of a small patrol of Kabalite Warriors.

As darkness approaches, darker creatures appear...

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 GALLERY

A Razorwing casts its fearsome shadow on the ba lefield.

The Talos Pain Engine relessly watches the perimeter, during the approaching night.

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 GALLERY

Wyches jumping out of cover and into the ac on!

The bulky Grotesque stands alone in the vast plains of this Dark Eldar planet.

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 GALLERY

Eldar

Arlequine’s and Troupe Master’s drama c and acroba c poses.

The Avatar of Khaine is back, and he’s not happy with his friends.

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 GALLERY

Autarchs escort a brand new wave serpent to the front lines.

Dark Reapers have been fishing, and today it was a hell of a good day! Red herrings for everyone!

105
 GALLERY

Dire Avengers prac ce their posing for the parade of tomorrow.

The Eldar Farseer spends some me reading an Imperial road sign.

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Eldar Guardians are, not surprisingly, le home with a heavy weapon pla orm, defending some
apparently precious crystals.

Eldar jetbikes, looking cool in the parking lot.

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Troupe Master, atop a roof in Gotham city.

For the last issue of Wings and Engines the Eldar really wanted to show off!

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The Farseer’s personal bodyguard. Wraithguard. Just in case some humans decide to show up.

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Grey Knights

Strike squad, joined by an acroba c Jus car for the occasion.

Behind the stage, the set used for the pictures.

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 GALLERY

Cotaez beside heavy support.

Purga on Squad, having a friendly chat and a barbecue on the shore of a lake.

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A dreadnought makes his entrance, not missing the chance to destroy a tree...

Interceptor squad during a peaceful patrol. And Jus car, screaming all the me.

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Refreshing sight of a Land Raider. Good old firepower.

Librarian with halberd, riding into ba le! Riding onto Rhinos!

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Imperial Guard

(by Captain Mike)

Three Leman Russ (Russes? Russs? Russians?)

Guardsmen in desert camouflage.

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Guardsmen, and a li le funny toy...

Marauder Bombers. Because ground forces like to be grinded.

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Ogryns in a (quite rare) disciplined forma on.

The Imperial Guard is very strict about discipline. Only the Commanders can take drama c stances.

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Oil and cigars. The way to go!

The army is on the move.

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Swarming the plains, assimila ng the planets. Imperial Guard, The Pe y Devourer.

Toy story 4 - Heavy Machineguns.

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Thunderbolt Fighters. Fight air with air.

Valkyrie. The most expedi ous transport to death since 39.876.

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Rise and shine, Imperial Guard!

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Necron

The Doomsday Ark is ready for ba le.

The Tomb World awakes, and presents to the world his Immortals!

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A necron army arises from the sands...

A Night Schyte is deploying Immortals to prepare an ambush.

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A C’tan shard joins the ranks, when summoned by the Phaheron.

Praetorians, slowly strolling around their town.

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Necron Deathmarks in the night.

Remains of a Titan from Ancient mes are saved from me and brought back to the ba lefield.

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Orks

Despite the mean propaganda in the Imperium, we know that Ork Nobs are very social, friendly and
peaceful creatures.

Some mes, ge ng your hands on a parking lot it’s just more difficult than you’d expect. In those
situa ons, crea vity can help!

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 GALLERY

When le without their lead, Ork Mobz are known to enjoy a walk in the wastelands.

Ork buggies and Ba le Wagons.

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 GALLERY

Some mes even Ork bikes get stuck in traffic jams...

Some people prefer the old school steeds, instead of the high-tech bikes. Even though they look like
Orcs on boars, they behave exactly as Orks on motorbikes!

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 GALLERY

A portrait of a Dok, Leader Kommando and Weirdboy (from the le ).

Dakkajet! The true Boss of the skies!

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 GALLERY

Blitza-Bommer, dripping coolness.

Burna-Bommer, fat and yellow as usual.

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Ork Flyers roaming the skies!

Koptas are taken down by bad weather. Exactly as expected.

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An old family picture of Big Mek and his son, Killa Kan.

In high school they all made fun of him because he was fat. Now he’s back, and he keeps them in line.

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As cover picture for the next issue of ”Orks and Motors” we think this: Shock Gun, some sunbathing,
half-naked, Lootas Mek and a Looted Land Raider.

No Ork was harmed during the filming process. Here is a group picture of our cast.

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A sunny Sunday is the perfect day to eat the asphalt with other centaurs.

Ork Nobs always hang out surrounded by a full pack of orks.

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 GALLERY

Ork Nobz, taking a break in a Trukk rest sta on.

Warboss is always one step ahead every other Ork when it comes to good taste in clothings. Oh, and
also on the ba lefield...

134
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GALLERY

Da Waaagh! ’z here!
 GALLERY

Space Wolves

Skyclaw Assault pack marching through millenia old ruins, not caring much for the archeological value
of such buildings.

Space Wolves’ HQ storms the Dry Ice Wastes.

136
 GALLERY

Thunderwolves scou ng the more impervious lands.

For the less impervious regions, the Heavy support will provide the adequate power to smooth the
landscape.

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A Wolf Guard pack, landing very close to what could have been its icy, sorry end.

A Scout Pack is overwatching the surroundings from an elevated posi on, and analyzing lifeforms.

138
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Assault Bike and Land Speeder.

The Swi claws are a pack best employed in the inland regions of this harsh planet

139
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Predator tank and a Long Fangs pack defend the high and impervious cliffs facing the nitrogen sea

Grey Hunters and Rhinos reach the end of the world, and take a break.

140
 GALLERY

Tau

This sec on is s ll empty. Anyone can sub-

mit pictures of his miniatures. First comes, first
served.

141
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Tyranids

The Hive Tyrant leads his Tyranid swarm to bring destruc on on this dry planet.

Li le Tyranids grow old.

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More starving Tyranids.

Tyranid Gargoyles are only a small detachment, exploring the grounds before the main swarm.

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Genestealers defending a breeding pool.

Hormagants patrolling ruins.

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The Trygon wanders in the ruins. It needs no support.

The leading warriors of the swarm stand close to the living pool in this doomed night.

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Morning Reveille!

At sunrise, the Gant patrols are switched, and Termagants appear on the field.

146
 GALLERY

Pekel

The crude dividers show that the middle of the board - a normal 4’ x 6’ equivalent - is being used for
this game. The two armies are 1500 points each. The board is a picture frame backed with flexible
magne c sheet, sprayed over with textured spray paint and then painted.

All the buildings and scenery are magne zed. I could pick that ruin up and turn it upside down and not
a single model would move.

147
 GALLERY

The gaming table is ready, and it looks terrific!

Eldar (including an immobilized Falcon) occupy a building made from a Cheerios box. For terrain
pieces, everything is coated in magne c paint.

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 GALLERY

Scouts appearing behind some Warp Spiders. Note that the Eldar models o en are incomplete.

Space Marine entrenched in a ruined sturdy building.

149
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Terminators led by a Librarian prepare to annihilate a unit of Wraithguard.

Most of the Space Marine units, and an element of scenery. On the upper-right side a standard Space
Marine.

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Here’s some Adeptus Mechanicus themed terrain made by my brother from Cityfight and Zoid parts.

Eldar miniatures from GW during the pain ng.

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Drax

Eldar army.

Fire Dragons. Too many?

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Death Jesters/Dark Reapers.

Farseer, Warlocks and other HQ.

153
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Wraithguard

Autarchs and Swooping Hawks.

154
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Jetbikes!

More Jetbikes, in case of need.

155
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Guardians/Dire avengers.

Guardians/Dire avengers with heavy weapon pla orm.

156
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Harlequin troupe.

Howling Banshees.

157
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Striking Scorpions (never enough).

More Guardians/Dire avengers with pla orms!

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Wraithlords. War Walkers when needed.

Vyper Jetbikes.

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Wave Serpents! Made by Levian using old Grav Tank.

Grav Tanks from the past.

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Eldar army.

Assault Marines.

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Vanguard Veteran Squad.

Sternguard Veteran Squad.

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Marine Tac cal Squad.

Marine Tac cal Squad.

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Ultramarine and Space Wolves Tac cal Squads.

Marine Tac cal Squad.

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Bike Squad with leader.

Ultramarine tac cal Squad, and two Wolves tac cal Squad.

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Land Speeders! Two more unfinished/to fix..

Ultramarine and Space Wolves Captains, and many Rhino.

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Ultramarine Land Raiders and Space Wolves Land Speeders. And Two more SW tac cal Squads.

Legion of the Damned, with personal Rhino.

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The Marine Armies.

Unfinished Chaos Army. I have to remove the stand, magne ze, etc. etc...

168
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GALLERY

They shall know no fear!

 GALLERY

Stingray

Full Space Wolves Army.

Yes, guns are efficient and cool, but there’s something about an heterogenous horde of savage melee
fighters that will never be matched.

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Long Fangs, front-view.

Long Fangs, side-view.

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Disco Wolves on the catwalk. Njal Storm caller, Ulrik the slayer & Ragnar Blackmane

Full Blood Angels army.

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Grey Hunters.

Terminators have a tendency to find a small nice in every Marine army.

173
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That’s what I call a really cool concept for a band. Tech Marine & The Servitors.

174
 THE TEAM

Contacts The team

If you any sugges ons, comments or requests Alessar
you can contact any member of our team via e-
mail at: pocketw40k@gmail.com Levian
or you can like us on Facebook, share on
Chronos
Google+, or subscribe to our weekly posts on
our homepage on The Pocket Warhammer Web- Dirinel
site.
Drax

Mike

S ngray

Pekel

Corax

Anthea

Luke

Plus all those people who contribute providing

sugges ons, comments, feedback or otherwise
just play Pocket WH40K. This game exists only
because so many of you play it!

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 DISCLAIMER

Disclaimer
This document is completely unofficial and in no way endorsed by Games Workshop Limited.
Adeptus Astartes, Blood Angels, Bloodquest, Cadian, Catachan, the Chaos devices, Cityfight, the
Chaos logo, Citadel, Citadel Device, Codex, Daemonhunters, Dark Angels, Dark Eldar, ’Eavy Metal,
Eldar, Eldar symbol devices, Eye of Terror, Fire Warrior, Forge World, Games Workshop, Games
Workshop logo, Genestealer, Golden Demon, Gorkamorka, Great Unclean One, Inquisitor, the
Inquisitor logo, the Inquisitor device, Inquisitor:Conspiracies, Keeper of Secrets, Khorne, Kroot,
Lord of Change, Necron, Nurgle, Ork, Ork skull devices, Sisters of Ba le, Slaanesh, Space Hulk,
Space Marine, Space Marine chapters, Space Marine chapter logos, Tau, the Tau caste designa-
ons, Tyranid, Tyrannid, Tzeentch, Ultramarines, Warhammer, Warhammer 40k Device, White
Dwarf, the White Dwarf logo, and all associated marks, names, races, race insignia, characters,
vehicles, loca ons, units, illustra ons and images from the Warhammer 40,000 universe are ei-
ther ®, TM and/or © Copyright Games Workshop Ltd 2000-2012, variably registered in the UK
and other countries around the world. Used without permission. No challenge to their status
intended. All Rights Reserved to their respec ve owners. Miniatures © Games Workshop 2003.
All rights reserved. Used without permission.

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