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TALADVANCETM

A nature-like extract of Talapetraka


for a radiant skin

Skin balance & protection


Flash skin perfector

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Centella Asiatica
History & Applications

Legend has it that a young farmer felt in love


Serdex initially introduced the Centella asiatica with the daughter of a village chief.
plant through the pharmaceutical industry & then
When he proposed to her, the father got very angry
developed an expertise in the area of triterpenic
molecules, which were known for their cosmetic & because of his rather modest condition
dermo-cosmetic properties. and cut his ear with his sword.
Talapetraka Knowing the young man’s reputation of healer,
malagasy
the chief told him that he could get married with
name means
the creeping his daughter at the condition that he could
plant forming Folklore, Myths & Legends come back the next day with his ear healed.
green carpets
about Centella asiatica: Aware of Centella asiatica properties,
as he had seen the tigers rolling in this herb
to soothe their wounds, the young man applied
“Tiger Grass” or “Tiger Herb” “The outstanding memory of
because injured tigers often rub elephants justify the Indians with the plant on his ear all night long and came back
against it to heal their wounds & will Gotu Kola, which is eaten by Indian
elephants with fondness.”
the next morning with his healed ear.
have gained their strength by eating
its leaves. The marriage took place and the legend of
Centella Asiatica started to spread.

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TALADVANCETM
A nature-like extract of Centella asiatica

Taladvance composition is close to the molecular content of Centella asiatica in


triterpens and polyphenols

Polyphenols are synthesized for plant protection (UV…) and specifically stored according to
their phytochemical family.
Flavonoids are one of the largest groups of Polyphenols and are plant metabolites thought to
have antioxidant effects.

Triterpens Polyphenols
Assay / HPLC
Identification / TLC
DHCT assay / Spectrophotometry

Cinnamic derivatives
Madecassic (DHCT)
acid

Asiaticoside Kaempferol-3-O-glucuronide
Quercetin-3-O-glucuronide

Asiatic
acid

Madecassoside*

* Blend of Madecassoside & Terminoloside (isomers)

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Centella asiatica portfolio
Manufacturing process

Nature-like solution
with Triterpens &
Pholyphenols

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TALADVANCETM

In the epidermis, the production of cells sometimes lack control.


This leads to the manufacture of more cells than necessary,
inducing an excess of rough, dry skin.

With time, the most important cells of the dermis, the fibroblasts, lose
functionality. As the protection in the dermis lessens & cell death
increases, the skin loses firmness, freshness.

As a result the skin feels rough, looks dull, lack of radiance

TALADVANCE™
2%-5%
cream works to regulate the cell cycle in the epidermis,
increase fibroblast functionality & protect the dermis
It provide a flash & long-lasting radiance to the skin

The skin regains radiance,


light & energy !

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TALADVANCETM
Proven efficacy

Epidermal test:
Clinical evaluations
● Modulation of keratinocytes
Flash complexion perfector differenciation :
Increases blooming aspect , uniformity & > IGFBP-3 activation
complexion radiance within 30 min at 5% -
twice more efficient than the placebo Dermal test :

● Dermal boosting & cellular viability


Long-lasting radiance - Metabolism improvement (mTOR pathway
Light and glow aspect improvement after 28 activation)
- Cellular capacity maintenance (Survivin
days at 2% activation)

● Dermal protection
- Collagen network protection

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Flash complexion perfector
Clinical evaluation
Protocol
- 2 groups of 19 & 20 women (25-45 y.o.), phototype II or III with dull complexion
Skin complexion improvement
- Single standardized application by the technician
- Cream with 5% of Taladvance™ or a placebo
* - Evaluation of skin complexion by 5 jury assessors
before application & after 30 min (scales from 0- 15)
Δ Mean value (T30min - T0)

+35%
***
+26%
+58%
**
+9%
In only 30 min, Taladvance™ at 5%
+4%
+24% visibly improves blooming aspect,
uniformity & complexion radiance!
** Twice more efficient than the placebo for radiance improvement
% of increase T30 vs T0 * **p<0.01 ***p<0.001
*p<0.05

Parameters measurement: evaluation scale from 0-15:


Blooming aspect: dull (0) to blooming (15) Skin is less dull,
Complexion uniformity: not at all (0) to very (15)
Radiance aspect: not at all (0) to very (15) regains homogeneity & glow!
Δ Mean value measurement:
Δ

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15
not at all very

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Skin Long-lasting radiance
Clinical evaluation

Protocol:
- 2 groups of 20 women (25-45 y.o.), phototype I to III with dull complexion
- Application twice daily for 28 days of a cream at 2% of Talavance™
Light reflection variations or a placebo
after 28 days - Radiance measurement with a Goniolux®

ls

**
Δ Mean (T28D - T0)

Taladvance™ at 2% increases
complexion light & glow

Skin is more radiant,


looks healthier...

More radiant No change in More lighted


skin satin-finish
** skin
*

Goniolux parameters
An increase in the light reflected in a direct way characterizes a more radiant skin
An increase in the light reflected in a diffused way shows a more satin-finish skin
An increase in the total volume of reflected light characterizes a more lighted skin
**p<0.01 ls p=0.08

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Biological Activity
Action on the Epidermis
Protocol:
-Test on NHEK (Normal Human EpidermialKeratinocytes)
-Pre-treatment with 0.2% TALADVANCETM
during 72h.
> Epidermal balance -IGFBP-3 gene measured by RT-qPCR - immunolabelling

Regulation of early stage keratinization


to avoid hyperkeratinization
Control

> Marker
IGBFP-3 (Insulin Growth Binding Factor Protein 3) > Activation
the protein level is measured by the dosage of its gene of IGFBP3
expression by RT-qPCR
in NHEK TALADVANCETM (0.2%)
(Normal Human
Epidermal Keratinocytes)

> Outcome:
Skin Surface is refreshed, Expression

smooth brought back to normalcy x12

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Biological Activity
Dermal boosting & cellular viability

In vitro test on NHDF (Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts):


● Control
Treatment over 20 mins with culture medium (control) alone or with Taladvance™ (0,2% or 1%)


or Foetal Calf Serum at 10% (FCS) as a positive reference.
Test in triplicate
+ 147% of
● Immunomarking of phospho-rpS6 in fibroblast phospho-rp S6
● Quantification by analysis image (ribosomal
protein S6)

Control TALADVANCETM (0.2%)


> Metabolism improvement
( mTOR pathway activation)

Global fibroblasts functionality


improvement thanks to:
Activation of mTOR pathway in NHDF the activation of the mTOR pathway
rpS6 phosphorylation (%)

improving cell viability (nutrients,


+147%
**
metabolism, survival, proliferation)
*

*p<0.05 **p<0.01 ***p<0.001 (rpS6: ribosomal protein S6)

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Biological Activity
Dermal boosting & cellular viability

In vitro test on NHDF (Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts): Control


● Treatment over 24,48 or 72h with culture medium alone (control) or with Taladvance™ (0.2% or 1%)
or Foetal Calf Serum at 10% (FCS) as a positive reference. Test in triplicate
+47% of
● immunolabeling of survivin in fibroblast Survivin
● Quantification by analysis image

Activation of Survivin in NHDF


> Cellular capacity maintenance
(Survivin activation)
Survivin expression (AU)

+47%

Global fibroblasts functionality


improvement thanks to the
activation of Survivin protein,
** * * ** ** *

Maintains cellular capacity


& regeneration potential
*p<0.05 **p<0.01 (FCS: Foetal Calf Serum) AU: fluorescence intensity/nb of cells)

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Biological Activity
Dermal protection

In vitro test on NHDF


● Pre-treatment for 4h with culture medium alone or Taladvance™ (0.2% or 1%)
● Treatment for 2h with H2O2 to induce aging of fibroblasts
● Post-treatment for 72h with culture medium alone or Taladvance™ (0.2% or 1%)


A non-treated control with normal fibroblasts is performed in parallel.
Test in triplicate. MMP-1 release is measured by Elisa
> Collagen network protection

Inhibition of MMP-1 in aging fibroblasts Significant Inhibition for induced


MMP-1 synthesis
MMP-1 synthesis (ng/mL)

***
inhibition of Matrix MetalloProteinase-1
-54%
activity in aging fibroblasts by 54%
**

with H2O2

Treatment with H2O2


to induces aging of fibroblasts

**p<0.01 ***p<0.001

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TALADVANCETM
Summary

Type of skin
> Flash complexion perfector
● All types

Key claims > Long-lasting radiance


● Skin Radiance
● Anti-aging > Epidermal Homeostasis
● Epidermal balance
● Dermal boosting &
> Dermal Boosting & Protection
protection
● Skin sublimation

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TALADVANCETM
Characteristics

INCI Name: Glycerin - Aqua/Water -


Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

ASPECT: Brown solution


SOLUBILITY: Water soluble

PRESERVATIVE: none

A nature-like extract of RECOMMENDED USE: 2-5%


Centella asiatica
Triterpens

APPROVALS: from an organic-certified plant*


Glucuronide derivatives

15-25%

*China Compliant: all INCI names are listed on the IECIC 2015. / ECOCERT Cosmetics: raw material
approved by ECOCERT GREENLIFE, in conformity with Ecocert natural and organic cosmetic standard./
COSMOS Approved: raw material approved by ECOCERT GREENLIFE, in conformity with Cosmos
6-20% standard.
Centella asiatica organic certificate n°MG-2016-75986-Z-53434-2017
Ambiaty ext.

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Contacts
Nota
Les seules spécifications analytiques garanties sont celles figurant dans le bulletin d’analyse fourni à chaque livraison de produit.
SEPPIC* ne donne aucune garantie, implicite, expresse ou légale, autre que la garantie limitée décrite ci-dessus, pour le produit objet de ce document. Sans préjudice des dispositions qui précèdent,
SEPPIC* ne donne aucune garantie quant à la qualité loyale et marchande du produit ou à son aptitude à un usage particulier. L’utilisation et/ou la vente du produit, seul ou associé à d’autres marchandises,

Serdex Products Presentation - 02/2017 / Photos: ©FOTOLIA, ©BIOTECHMARINE , ©SERDEX, ©HELENE FOURNIE
se feront sous la seule responsabilité du client. Les informations contenues dans ce document sont fournies gracieusement, et sont données à titre indicatif ; elles sont basées sur l’état des connaissances
de SEPPIC* relatives au produit à cette date et sont données de bonne foi. Ces informations sont destinées à des personnes ayant une compétence technique et les utilisant à leurs risques et périls. Etant
donné que l’utilisation de ces informations est en dehors du contrôle de SEPPIC*, SEPPIC* ne donne aucune garantie, implicite ou expresse, et n’assume aucune responsabilité quant à l’utilisation de ces
informations. En particulier, le client devra vérifier qu’il ne contrevient pas à des brevets existants.

*SEPPIC étant :

SEPPIC S.A. SEPPIC Castres BiotechMarine Head Office


22 Terrasse Bellini 27, chemin de la poudrerie – BP 90128 Zone Industrielle 75, quai d'Orsay
92806 Puteaux 81105 CASTRES CEDEX B.P. 72 75007 Paris
FRANCE FRANCE 22260 Pontrieux FRANCE
Tél : +33 (0)1 42 91 40 00 Tél : +33 (0)5 63 72 69 69 FRANCE
info.seppic@airliquide.com Fax : +33 (0)5 63 72 69 70 Tél : +33 (0)2 96 95 31 32
contact.biotechmarine@airliquide.com

USA - SEPPIC Inc. SINGAPORE - SEPPIC Asia Singapore JAPAN - SEPPIC Japan Office CHINA - SEPPIC China
30, Two Bridges Road, suite 210 3 HarbourFront Place # 09 – 04 Air Liquide Japan's Office Room 2909 Nan Zheng Building
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USA SINGAPORE JAPAN CHINA
Tél : +1 973 882 5597 Tél : +65 6278 6711 Tél : +81 3 6414 6725 Tél : +86 (21) 64 66 01 49
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POLAND - SEPPIC Poland Office DUBAI - SEPPIC Dubai Air Liquide India Holding Pvt Ltd BRASIL - SEPPIC Brasil
CCIF East Wing 5, O2 Commercial Twin Tower Alameda Santos 745/ cj 72/ 7ºfloor
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Tél : +48 22 690 68 73 Tél : +971 (0) 4 205 5443 INDIA BRAZIL
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india.seppic@airliquide.com brasil.seppic@airliquide.com

GERMANY - SEPPIC Gmbh ITALIA - SEPPIC Italia Srl COLOMBIA - SEPPIC Colombia SAS Serdex S.A.S.
Martinstrasse 16-20 Via Quarenghi 27 Calle 71 n°10-40 1 avenue Normandie Niemen
50667 Köln 20151 Milano Edificio Orbe 71 of 401 64140 LONS
GERMANY ITALY Bogota FRANCE
Tél : +49 (0)221 888824 0 Tél : +39 02 38009110 COLOMBIA Tél : + 33 (0)5 59 13 04 20
germany.seppic@airliquide.com italy.seppic@airliquide.com Tél : +571 702 44 48 contact-serdex@airliquide.com
colombia.seppic@airliquide.com

A company

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ANNEXES
Serdex: Expert in innovative & titrated extracts
Specifications
Safety data
Formulation example

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Serdex: Expert in innovative & titrated extracts
from tropical origin, especially Madagascar

> Designer of natural active ingredients for premium cosmetics / Scientific expertise
● Ethnobotanical & phytochemical expertise
● Full traceability from the plant collect to the finished extract
● Proven efficacy, mechanism of action
● Innovative extracts
● Pharmaceutical background

> Ethical sourcing


Since 2008: member of the Union for Ethical Biotrade (UEBT)
Commitment to gradually ensure that the sourcing practices promote:
● Biodiversity conservation
● Respect of traditional knowledge
● Equitable sharing of benefits
● Good collecting practices & Sustainable development policy

> Maintain Centella Asiatica leadership with new biological results

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Centella asiatica History
& Application

Area Ecocert
certified of
Serdex is a UEBT member
Centella asiatica
plant by our ● Names:
supplier
Centella asiatica, Talapetraka
Hydrocotyle asiatica ,Brahmi,
Region
Alaotra-Mangaro Gotu Kola (“fountain of youth”)
Tiger Grass / Tiger Herb
History: Indian or Asian pennywort (“umbellifer”)

1850-1858: Dr Boileau: Treatment of leprosy lesions, ● Origin:


dermatosis, oedema, ulcer, wounds & skin
Madagascar, High plateaus,
inflammation.
Wild harvested

1941: 1st dry extract of Centella asiatica was


produced. ● Organ:
Leaves
1948: P. Boiteau & al. isolated triterpenoids:
genins (aa and ma) & their stored form ● Traditional
use in Chinese medecine
heterosides (asiaticoside & madecassoside).
& Indian Ayurvedic medicine:
Wound healing / Leprosy / Mental tonic

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Centella Asiatica
Phytochemical composition

● Triterpens
● Polyphenols
Molecules which are known to have therapeutic
properties. Parasitic attacks on plants like the Can be found in synthetic form as well
Centella Asiatica lead to the biosynthesis of but are Secondary metabolites prominently produced in
triterpens. plants & fruits.
In cosmetic preparations, the triterpens found in Due to their cyclic structure, they are known antioxidants,
Centella Asiatica but have also shown the ability to work as an anti
> have efficacy on stretch marks, wrinkles or inflammatory, absorb UV/Visible light & fight against free
cellulite radicals amongst many other claims.
> have also shown the ability to moisturize
& firm the skin, as well as anti-acne.

● Flavonoids

One of the largest groups of


Polyphenols are plant metabolites
thought to have antioxidant effects.
These molecules are found in a
● Genins variety of fruits & vegetables, and
are also thought to have other
Ensure the protection & defense of plant's cells in its activity such as anti inflammatory,
natural environment against bacterial, fungal & yeast anti allergic amongst other
attacks. properties

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Centella asiatica portfolio
Manufacturing process

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Serdex Centella Extracts
vs the competition

Highly purified molecules in our extracts.

● Nature of the product Process without Acetonitrile & Methanol.


> Several botanical varieties differentiated Full traceability: GMP for TECA pharma.
on the basis of their location.
Safety & Innocuity: used in pharmaceutical
● Centella asiatica from Madagascar Applications: TECA pharma; 70 years of
research.
> is more stable in composition of
pentacyclic triterpenes (actives),
> has higher amount of those actives, Mastery of the preparation’s composition:
> grows wild. When cultivated, it loses its Serdex studies started 70 years ago.
pharmacological profile & has low content of
actives.
Broad & complete dossier: many studies
in vivo & in vitro to prove efficacy and
mechanism of action of our products.

Ethical sourcing: UEBT/Nagoya.

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TALADVANCETM
Formulation guideline

Phase Mixing instructions Phase Mixing instructions


Raw Material / Raw Material /
INCI UE % Function INCI UE % Function
Commercial Name Commercial Name
A In a separate container weigh in phase A. Heat to 75°C under stirring.
Propylene glycol, Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Into another container weigh the water and dermofeel PA3. Heat at 80°C under stirring. At
Dub Helioptima Diisopropyl Sebacate, Diisopropyl Adiapte, 8 Emollient 80°C under high stirring, sprinkle sepinov EMT10. Stir until a homogeneous phase
B
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate obtained. At 80°C increase the stirring speed and produce the emulsion by adding phase
A to Phase B. Then sprinkle Cellulobeads USF. Cool down under moderate stirring.
Pentiol green + 1 Humectant
Demineralised 65,4962
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Aqua Solvent
Tinosorb S 1,5 UV filter water 5
Triazine
Uvinul A Plus Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Dermofeel PA3 Sodium phytate, Aqua, Alcohol 0,1 Chelatant
2 UV filter
Granular Benzoate
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium
Eusolexos Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5 UV filter Acryloydimethyl Taurate Copolymer,
Sepinov EMT10 1,5 Thickener
Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60,
Uvinul T 150 Ethylhexyl Triazone 2 UV filter Aqua

Cellulobeads USF Cellulose, Aqua 0,5 Matifying agent


Karanja Oil CQ U/A PONGAMIA GLABRA SEED OIL 2 Emollient
C At 50°C add phase C. Continue cooling.
Montanov S Coco-Glucoside, Coconut alcohol 1,5 Co Emulsifier 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol,
Spectratrastat PHL 1,2 Preservative
Caprylhydroxamic acid
CI 77492, Isostearyl Sebacate, Disodium
NHS-C339001-10 0,21 Pigment At 30°C add the components of phase D, one by one, and continue stirring until a
Stearoyl glutamate, Aluminium hydroxide
homogeneous phase is produced.
CI 77491, Isostearyl sebacate, Disodium D
NHS-C338001-10 0,03375 Pigment Measure the resulting pH, and adjust if necessary :
stearoyl glutamate, Aluminium hydroxide
5.50-6.00
CI 77499, Isostearyl sebacate, Disodium 0,01000
NHS-C337001-10 Pigment Aqua, Glycerin, Centella asiatica leaf
stearoyl glutamate, Aluminium hydroxide 0 Taladvance® 2 Active
extract
CI 77891, Isostearyl sebacate, Disodium 3,75000
NHS-TAO-77891 Pigment Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus
stearoyl glutamate, Aluminium hydroxide 0 Rosamox 0,05 antioxidant
Officinalis leaf extract
2,00000
Amphisol K Potassium cetyl phosphate Emulsifier Corazon/SA
0 0,15 Perfume
LA0042

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TALADVANCETM
Phytochemical approach

Polyphenols are synthetized for plant protection (UV…) and


specifically stored according to their phytochemical family.

Flavonoids are one of the largest groups of Polyphenols and


are plant metabolites thought to have antioxidant effects.

When the plant is stressed by its natural predators


(yeast, bacteria), the heterosides or glycosylated
molecules are hydrolized in their related acids or
genins that are decreasing the intra-cellular pH,
preventing the growth of these predators. But it is
leading to an inflammatory status within these
vegetal cells. This is modulated thanks to the natural
anti-inflammatory activity of the heterosides. Q3OG:
Quercetin-3-O-glucuronide
Balance between acids and heterosides. K3OG:
Kaempferol-3-O-glucuronide

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TALADVANCETM
In-vitro profiling activities on Dermis

Dermis stimulation & protection Biological processus


Examples of
p-value
genes involved
Cellular response to nutrient HMOX1,CDKN2B 2,85E-05

Growth hormone receptor signaling pathway PIK3R1,SOCS2 0,00013223

NTF3,GREM1,SSTR1,NDP,ST
Cell-cell signaling 0,00035066
Test on NHDF C2

• Affymetrix® arrays Response to nutrient levels NES,MAP1B 0,00079502

• Profiling activities Cellular response to extracellular stimulus ITGA6,CDKN2B 0,0008821


(transcriptom biomarkers):
Dna damage response, signal transduction
Global research on biological pathways resulting in induction of apoptosis
HMOX1,UACA 0,00097357
by genes ‘clustering’
Cell surface receptor linked signal transduction ELTD1,PRLR,IL7R,STC2 0,00166479
• Test: 24h treatment with 1% Taladvance®
Response to nutrient MGP,SSTR1,STC2 0,00220708

Cell-cell adhesion VCAM1,ITGA6,CDH11 0,00254372

Positive regulation of anti-apoptosis HMOX1,PIK3R1 0,00255342

VCAM1,ITGA6,CDH11,DCBLD
Cell adhesion 0,00302715
2,SSX2IP,PPFIBP1

Negative regulation of cell cycle MAFB,MTUS1,CDKN2B 0,00495584

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TALADVANCETM
In-vitro profiling activities on Dermis

Highlight on potential interests

-mTOR (global cellular fonctionnality)


-HSP 27 (cellular repair)
-Metallothionine (detoxification)

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TALADVANCETM
In tubo anti-oxidant activity

> Powerful Anti-Oxidant

Taladvance®
***
In tubo test:
ORAC test
ORAC: Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity
Spectrophotometry (µM of trolox equivalent /
100g)

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TALADVANCETM
Epidermal balance

Modulation of keratinocytes differentiation (IGFBP-3)

IGF (Insulin-Like Growth Factor)


– Expressed by fibroblasts & melanocytes
– Proteic synthesis stimulation, Tissue growth stimulation

IGFBP3 (Insulin-Like Growth Factor Binding


protein 3)
– Expressed by basal keratinocytes
– Keratinocytes proliferation regulation
– IGFBP3 balance
• Reduced IGFBP3 from proliferative keratinocytes in
psoriastic skin lesions
• Overexpression of IGFBP3 is associated with inhibition of K
proliferation but without alteration in epidermal morphology

IGFBP3 may modulate the early stages of


differentiation
– Sequester IGF-1
– Influence on transition from KSC (K stem cell) to TA
(transit amplifying/proliferating)

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