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Dubai has achieved extraordinary and rapid growth and is now

wowing the world with much more than the beach life and bling
that hit the global headlines. We meet the movers, shakers, doers
and makers who are redefining the city and giving it cultural clout.
A city special

The Monocle
Guide to Dubai All you need to know
about this Gulf metropolis
from the inside-out, from
how it’s done to where
to go and what to see.

01
Business and
entrepreneurship
A global hub for innovation

02
Culture, art and media
International and regional
developments

03
Architecture, design
and fashion
The vision for the metropolis

04
Hospitality and retail
Where to stay, eat and shop

05
Essential experiences
The activities that define Dubai

A global oasis
Contents The Monocle Guide to Dubai

Welcome to Dubai

A city filled
with countless
surprises
You might think you know Dubai, even if
you haven’t been. But while some of the
preconceptions hold true – skyscrapers
and year-round sun abound – there is
even more on offer in the city, across all
sectors, as a new wave of locals and p04—05
Getting around
p06—09
Opportunity knocks
p10—13
Creative movers and shakers
expats populate the emirate with cultural Map and infrastructure Business and entrepreneurship Culture, art and media
institutions, businesses, design icons and To help you get the most out of your time It’s no surprise that Dubai is known for Situated at a cultural crossroads between
in Dubai, here is an essential guide to the being friendly to business. Here are some east and west, Dubai’s art scene attracts
hospitality and retail concepts that boom. urban layout and the key characteristics particularly noteworthy new ventures and both creators and appreciators of art from
of the city’s neighbourhoods. key personalities. around the world.

Tktktktk tktktktk
Dubai was once regarded as a city than 1 per cent of Dubai’s current Dubai has plenty to offer its visitors

Ipsunt eturam
of opportunities for those willing to GDP is derived from oil. Its wealth and residents. Some of the globe’s
uproot for a few years to make an now comes from banking, financial most favourable tax conditions are
easy tax-free living before cashing services, property, trade, aviation bolstered by high levels of security
in and returning to where they came and innovation. Dubai combines and education, not to mention

e ste m idmagni
from. Dubai has changed. It is still more tax treaties than Switzerland, culture and cosmopolitan flair.
a land for prospectors but there Singapore and Lichtenstein, with

200 117
are abundant opportunities for a a best-in-class regulatory and
nuanced quality of life that attracts judicial framework. A beacon for
a more discerning émigré.
Although the earliest written
record of Dubai dates back to the
11th century, modern Dubai was
women’s rights in the region, Dubai
has no restrictions on work, driving
or dress codes. Add to this its
reputation as one of the world’s
Expat nationalities
make up 90 per cent
of the population
Treaties for Double
Tax (or 193 with
Bilateral Investment)
aspelibea
founded as a fishing village in the safest cities and Dubai’s global Ximperit qui commoloresti doluptatecus
0 74
early 1800s. It wasn’t until the approach drives a positive brand
1970s that the city grew, from oil of ambition on which the city andi aut occuptus illab intiae quibus est
and trading revenues. Today less continues to grow. evelesequam que sitibustium quia quatiis
Personal income
tax, capital gains tax
Countries that are
eligible for visas
cusam, sit ad quuntur aut quod ex etur
Editor: Saul Taylor | Writer: Leila Molana-Allen or withholding tax on arrival sam ipsunt vollaborit quat. Lor aditat as
Creative Director: Richard Spencer Powell | Production Director: Jacqueline Deacon
ea sit quiam quam, occupta tesequis 02

99.5 60+
Deputy Editor: Josh Fehnert | Designer: Giulia Tugnoli | Chief Sub Editor: Lewis Huxley p14—17 p18—21 p22—24
Header goes
do here
Photography Director: Matthew Beaman evelesequam
Style of its own
que sitibustium
Architecture, design and fashion quia quatiis
Where to dine, shop and stay
Hospitality and retail
Things to
Itat ium adexperiences
Essential quenobitiandit mollaciis est
Photographers: Anna Nielsen, Munsif Molu | Images: Alamy, Shutterstock
rerum
The scopeaspelibea quatqui
for grand designs makes thisdolorpo ritincil
Build your itineraryet
here. From famous andipsum molorep
Top tips for eruptatur
ways to nobitiandit
spend your time
Illustration: Sally Caulwell, John Devolle, Cami Dobrin | Sub Editor: Katia Hadidian mollacii
in Dubai, whether you’re aftertetur,
s est ve
rsperchil expelic sit
Dubai Corporation of Tourism & Commerce Marketing:
Literacy rate among
the 15-24-year-old
Universities and
colleges offering
rentium fuga. Itat ium que nobitiandit.
city an architect’s dream – and designers
across aesthetic disciplines are also
60
malls, grand addresses and under-the-
radar shops to haute cuisine and casual am asimagnisadventure
in-a-lifetime
a once-
nobitianditormollaciis set
a leisurely
Samuel Dulka and Pallavi Sharma population sector over 500 courses well represented. dining spots, Dubai has it all. escilloreri occatioditia. 35
day of indulgence.

2 3
Map The Monocle Guide to Dubai

The good life, by design Burj Khalifa

Urban planning,
ARABIAN GULF

sociable living
Burj Al Arab

PALM
For a city built almost entirely within the past 40 Jebel Ali JUMEIRAH
years, you’d expect tip-top infrastructure and 1
Dubai has happily obliged with a swift network
of roads, an efficient metro system and the
DUBAI MARINA
world’s busiest international airport a handful
2
of sand’s throw from the city centre. Dubai banked
on connectivity and it has paid off in spades. 3 JLT
Sheikh Zayed Road

BUSINESS BAY/
DOWNTOWN
JUMEIRAH Address Fountain
5 Views
8 DEIRA
9
Dubai Opera
Neighbourhood watch:
Getting into and around Dubai is a
desert breeze. Dubai International 1 Palm Jumeirah: This iconic
artificial residential island
Airport is a 15-minute taxi ride from Mall of the
is constructed in the shape Emirates Airport
Downtown. The world’s busiest air of palm fronds.
transport hub for international The Dubai Mall
2 Dubai Marina: An affluent
passenger traffic, DXB plays a key district known for yachts,
role in the success of the city: 141 The Beach at JBR, outdoor
airlines offer direct access to more activities and alfresco dining.
3 JLT: Jumeirah Lakes Towers ARABIAN
than 265 global destinations. It is (80 mixed-use towers on the RANCHES
within a four-hour flight of one third waterside, great for promenades)
of the world’s population and within is a project by the Dubai Multi 6
eight hours of two thirds so work or Commodities Center.
leisure trips are easy. The Emirates 4 Motor City/Sports City: These
two residential neighbourhoods
airline is a core driver of the on the outskirts of town close
economy, propping up trade and to the autodrome have fantastic
industry with its impeccable service sporting facilities.
and unbeatable global reach. 5 Business Bay/Downtown:
D3 (DUBAI DESIGN
Dubai is the region’s technology These neighbouring districts are
DISTRICT)
the city’s commercial heart.
hub and the city’s infrastructure 6 Arabian Ranches: This high-
has innovation set into every aspect 7
end residential development is
of the urban fabric. An efficient envied for its villas, golf club and
driverless metro system that equestrian and polo club.
MOTOR CITY/ Dubai Creek
serves the city centre is bolstered 7 D3 (Dubai Design District):
SPORTS CITY
by car-sharing services such as The city’s creative hub, where
innovation and invention keep
Ekar and Udrive that facilitate easy the city powering forward. 4
hops across the city. Dubai is 8 Jumeirah: The most relaxed
straightforward to traverse, with place to live in the city, Jumeirah
the beaches just a 20-minute trip runs along the coast and is
from Downtown, the desert a enjoyed for its beach and laid-
back attitude.
further 20 minutes and the 9 Deira: Where it all began. This is
mountains less than 90 minutes the oldest commercial district in
away. In short, Dubai has a bigger Dubai, bordered by Dubai Creek,
capital’s infrastructure on an the Emirate of Sharjah to the
intimate scale. east and the Persian Gulf.

4 5
Business and entrepreneurship The Monocle Guide to Dubai

Cyber and analogue Q&A: Noor Sweid


Building bridges

Open True globalism

“More than 80 per cent of Dubai’s

minds
population comes from abroad
and has brought diversity of
thought and experience. The city
is a great place to find regional

welcome
talent and build teams because it
attracts driven, curious and
motivated people who are
able to collaborate with others
from different cultures and
It’s no secret that Dubai backgrounds. Dubai is a bridge
is a great place to do to all walks of life.”
global.vc
business but what
are the elements and Sweid is founder and general partner at
initiatives that make it Global Ventures investment firm

tick? We discover the


emirate’s magnetic pull.

Dubai is a vital player in the new


economy. Home to more than 100
international and regional fintech
businesses and 100 blockchain
companies, it plans to have the
world’s first blockchain-powered
government and to become the
globe’s fintech capital.
The World Economic Forum
placed the United Arab Emirates
first for macroeconomic stability
in 2019. The UAE regulators have
proactively established policy
frameworks, setting up “sandboxes”
to test ideas and providing quick Q&A: Oriol Font only locals could own property in
and low-cost test licenses for Putting down roots Dubai but over the past 20 years
fintech firms. New crowdfunding Living in Dubai many areas in the city have been
regulations will provide new designated – similar to the free
operating licenses in a city where Why is Dubai successful at zone concept – where expats can
small and medium-size enterprises attracting expats? own 100 per cent of a property.
account for 43 per cent of the total What Dubai did well in the past was
workforce and 40 per cent of the to build a strong value proposition Who is moving to Dubai? Case study: Beco Capital Case study: Sole DXB in 2011 and was fundamental in
emirate’s GDP. Dubai is the for attracting people by changing The profile of people coming to Seeds of change Transformational thinking transforming the warehouse district
preferred choice for fast growth the way company ownership works, Dubai has changed. The city is Growth potential Energising neglected spaces into a cultural hub. “Galleries were
start-ups in diverse sectors ranging which was different to the rest of maturing because the variety of just starting to arrive there when we
from healthtech, edtech, AI and the region. It defined the free zones. options is now comparable to Venture capital firm Beco Capital Sole DXB, the Middle East’s started,” says Moloobhoy. “We
robotics to renewable energy, If you want to grow your population, what you have in European or supports early-stage technology largest footwear, music, art and invited some trainer brands such as
transport and logistics. It is also you need companies to be based more cosmopolitan cities and ventures in the Middle East. Beco lifestyle festival, is testament to the Nike and Puma to collaborate on
home to accelerators (short-term here because they build teams to that has changed to mean a helps firms to raise funds, access can-do spirit in Dubai. Founded in the first edition. We had no idea it
growth programmes) such as Dubai work for them. more discerning resident. key decision-makers to help build 2010 by Hussain Moloobhoy, would be such a huge success.”
Future, DIFC Fintech Hive and Smart luxhabitat.ae teams and external networks, and Joshua Cox and Kris Balerite (Rajat Fast-forward 10 years and the team
City. Beyond the new economy, a What about the property market? provides analytics insights via their Malhotra joined as a partner in is preparing for its ninth and
healthy industry in independent The second step was to loosen Font is founder and CEO of property in-house data engines. 2013), Sole DXB began holding biggest edition in December.
manufacturing is growing. property ownership. Historically, company Luxhabitat becocapital.com events in a primarily industrial area sole.digital

6 7
Business and entrepreneurship The Monocle Guide to Dubai

Case study: VentureSouq


Future first
Female-led businesses

Sonia Gokhale, founding partner


of VentureSouq, a venture capital
firm that invests in early-stage
technology companies, is Case study: Fade Fit
encouraged by how accepting the Get fit quick
city is. “There are a lot of myths Start them young
when it comes to Dubai,” says
Gokhale. “I’m a Canadian female UAE radio star Kris Fade launched
working here and had no problems Fade Fit as a “stepping stone to a
at all. I’ve worked for a private healthier lifestyle”. It has a range of
company, a government and now I snacks and vitamins for adults and
have my own company. I never felt children, all made from natural
disadvantaged by being a female. ingredients with no sugar or
I’ve always felt encouraged and preservatives. The Fade Fit Tennis
respected by my peers.” Academy continues the workout.
venturesouq.com fadefit.com

Desert Control Case study: Elseco 500 Startups


Green shoots Straight to the moon Eeny, meeny, MENA, mo
Reducing water use Space risk Selecting investments

Can we make the earth green again In February, the UAE became the American venture capitalist firm
and turn desert into fertile soil? This first Arab nation to reach Mars with 500 Startups made its first
question led Norway’s Ole Kristian its unmanned probe, Hope. This investment in the MENA region in
Sivertsen to develop a patented collaboration with international 2012, when there were few US
non-intrusive process to reverse partners was a success for the UAE venture firms present. More than
desertification, revive degraded Space Agency, founded in 2014 to 30 investments later it was satisfied
soils and reduce water and fertiliser further the country’s aerospace by the region’s potential and
consumption. After 12 years of industry, and the Mohammed Bin launched a MENA-dedicated fund,
R&D, Desert Control’s product, Rashid Space Centre. Supporting Falcons I, in 2017. Since then, 500
liquid natural clay, is said to reduce the venture was Elseco, a specialty has cemented its position as one
water consumption by up to 50 per insurance underwriting platform of the most active early-stage
cent and increase crop yields by up trading in space, energy and investors in the Middle East. It has
to 62 per cent – claims that have aviation risk. The UAE’s appetite for almost fully deployed the Falcons I
been validated by independent out-of-this-world ideas has enabled fund, investing in more than 175
third-party organisations. Elseco to thrive. innovative start-ups.
desertcontrol.com else.co mena.500.co

Mirzam Chocolate Makers Case study: Kitopi


Sweet success Room service, at home
Wrap star Master chefs

“We source cocoa beans from Founded in 2018, Kitopi is a leading


eight different origins,” says cloud kitchen platform, serving
Kathy Johnston, chief chocolate customers across the Gulf from its
officer of Mirzam Chocolate 60 sites, which replicate the recipes
Makers. “We look for cocoa that is of 200 restaurant partners.
grown in places that Arabs traded Co-founder and CEO Mohamad
with. Mirzam is actually the name of Ballout believes Dubai’s business-
a star that they used to navigate friendly ecosystem is key to the
along the spice route.” Walking into start-up’s rapid growth. “The city
Mirzam is as exciting as walking and the government are very agile,
into, well, a chocolate factory. so decisions are made quickly,” he
Made entirely in Dubai, Mirzam says. “Regional firms are securing
offers workshops, tours and a the best talent and resources to
café concept beloved by its make the Gulf a global hub
loyal customers. for entrepreneurship.”
mirzam.com kitopi.com

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Culture, art and media The Monocle Guide to Dubai

In the frame

What makes
the city tick
In the space of a decade, Dubai has transformed
itself from a regional player to a global capital for
the creative industries and the arts. We meet some
of the inspiring souls who are driving the change World Art Dubai
Portrait of success
and take a look into how the city intends to keep Art for everyone
its residents inspired.
A global collection of contemporary
art and photography with prices
starting at $100 (€82), World Art
Dubai is a truly democratic event
that presents a growing Middle
Eastern collector base with more
than 2,000 works of art in diverse
media and a broad range of styles.
worldartdubai.com

Q&A: Dan Bolton


Talent spotting
Performance and presentation

What was the scene like when


you arrived in 2008?
Although it was already a big city
with mega construction projects, it
felt like a village. Everybody knew
everybody – the same creatives,
models, painters; everyone vying
for the same assignments.

And how has it changed?


Creative economics Dedicated zones Jameel Arts Centre Dubai has matured over the past
Build it and they shall come Planning for success Parks and repertoire few years and now competes with
The art of the deal Fully serviced neighbourhoods Picture this the rest of the world creatively,
especially in the events industry.
His Highness Sheikh Mohammed Dubai’s original masterplan included This waterfront contemporary arts We produce some of the biggest
Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice themed neighbourhoods for specific centre accommodates a variety of events the world has seen. I have
President and Prime Minister of the industries. Knowing that creative events, from film and photography colleagues around the world who
UAE and Ruler of Dubai, has communities are key to a healthy Emirates Airline Festival to talks, performance art and are envious of our opportunities
launched a strategy to transform economy, of these more than 25 of Literature dance. By a mix of Middle Eastern and the ability and quality of our
Dubai into the world capital for the “free zones” (neighbourhoods Turning the page and South Asian artists as well as suppliers. What takes 10 years to
creative economy and the global offering foreigners 100 per cent A new chapter those from underrepresented develop elsewhere happens quickly
hub for the culture industry by business ownership and full tax regions, the works on show in the here. That’s the exciting thing
2025. To achieve this, the industry’s exemption) nine make up the Dubai Dubai now hosts one of the world’s airy space reflect the city’s cultural about the opportunities we have:
contribution towards GDP will Development Authority. Within it, most respected literary festivals. clout. The green community Dubai wants to attract tourism,
double to 5 per cent and the new businesses can choose to Launched in 2009 with 65 authors, garden, run by local residents, was people and creativity.
number of creative companies occupy the Internet, Media, by 2020 the Emirates Airline Festival opened to encourage visitors and danbolton.me
increase from 8,300 to 15,000. The Production, Studio, Outsource, of Literature grew to 205 and the the community to have a strong
strategy includes upgrading the Knowledge, International Academic, 2021 edition saw three locations sense of shared responsibility for Bolton is founder of Dan Bolton
legal and investment environment Science and Design cities. and several weekends of events. the environment. Creative Management, an agency
needed to spur growth. dda.gov.ae emirateslitfest.com jameelartscentre.org for creative and performing talent.

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Culture, art and media The Monocle Guide to Dubai

Dubai Opera
Vaunted venue
Smart architecture

Designed by Janus Rostock (see


page 17), the Dubai Opera heralds
a new era for sensitive architecture
in the city. “We took three themes:
the dhow – a regional fishing boat,
a lantern and a large roof to shade
the façades and the street below,”
says Rostock. The resulting
building is sympathetic to
passersby, who are encouraged to
stop and enjoy the shade. The
opera’s programme is eclectic and
runs the gamut from Mamma Mia!
to Joseph Calleja and the Armenian
State Symphony Orchestra.
dubaiopera.com

Alserkal Avenue Hamdan Al Abri Surf House Dubai


Surprising sophistication The right note Making waves
Transforming industrial space Musical journey Community clubhouse

This unexpected neighbourhood of Singer/songwriter Hamdan Al Abri When Scott Chambers started
nearly 90 warehouses is home to is one of the founders and former teaching in 2005, “most people
more than 70 creative concepts, frontman of soul band Abri. Having didn’t even know you could surf
including contemporary art performed at the Dubai Jazz here”. That year he founded Surf
galleries, design and culinary Festival with the likes of Herbie House, a relaxed, welcoming beach
concepts. The location was Hancock, Erykah Badu, Sade, Sting shack offering surf lessons, yoga
developed as a collective project to and Kanye West, Abri went on to classes and a café serving
champion home-grown talent. release albums to great acclaim delicious, healthy food – and
“Dubai used to be thought of as a before Al Abri himself went solo. another venue followed in 2014.
place of routes, not roots,” says His funk and electronic-soul style is Everyone’s welcome and recent
executive director Vilma Jurkute. found on his last EP, Pieces, which expats soon find a new social
“But now people choose to make it finds him teaming up with long-time circle. “The atmosphere is
their home. There are so many new collaborators The Dreamfleet for conducive to speaking to someone
people coming in and those new what has been described as “four you don’t know,” says Chambers.
ideas keep this city young.” tracks of solid gold disco-infused “Suddenly you have new friends.”
alserkal.online soul”. surfingdubai.com

Layla Kardan Starzplay


Artist’s insight Streaming success
Making music Watch out

“What people might not know Since 2015, Starzplay, based in


about me is that I’m creative but I’m Dubai, has quietly entered the
also business-minded,” says Layla streaming market, aiming to be
Kardan, smiling behind violet-tinted a regional competitor for industry
sunglasses with an acoustic guitar giants like Netflix and Amazon
at her side. Raised in Australia Prime. In 2020, Starzplay made
but with regular visits to Dubai, the jump from streaming licensed
the Iranian-Australian songstress content to producing its own
left the corporate world to pursue entertainment. CEO and co-founder
music and found a receptive and Maaz Sheikh hopes to offer Arab
Cinema Akil
supportive creative community film-makers and audiences the
With plush red sofas and vintage posters, here. Within months, she was same production quality as
Cinema Akil is Dubai’s only arthouse
singing in some of the city’s biggest Hollywood studios. The platform’s
cinema, showing films that “revolve around
a conversation or start one,” says venues. “Every week you look at first series, Baghdad Central, set in
co-founder Butheina Hamed Kazim. the skyline here and it’s changed,” post-invasion Iraq, debuted in 2020.
cinemaakil.com she says. “That inspires me.” starzplay.com

12 13
Architecture, design and fashion The Monocle Guide to Dubai

Masterplans Architectural tour 03


Opus
Big statements

The
Zaha Hadid Architects
Building from scratch
Completed last year, the
Opus is now home to the
A city that sprung from the desert ME Dubai hotel and Maine

drawing
in fewer than 50 years is restaurant (see page 19).
understandably blessed with a First presented by Hadid in
mixture of architectural styles, with 2007, it’s the only hotel the
late British-Iraqi architect
glass and steel a defining motif. created inside and out.

board
There are, however, some
spectacular examples of how to
wow with consideration for the
resident and pedestrian alike.

A shimmering high-rise 04
Dubai World Trade Centre
in the sand, Dubai is John R Harris
developing design Erected in 1979, this was the city’s first
skyscraper. Purpose-built, its 21 halls, 40
credentials that rival meeting rooms and 38 floors host more
any international capital than 500 events a year.

and investing in its 02


Dubai Opera
people, neighbourhoods Janus Rostock
and a considered Danish architect Janus Rostock has
devised many of Dubai’s masterplans (see
creative infrastructure. page 17). The design of his opera house
cleverly facilitates street-level interaction.

01
ICD Brookfield Place
Foster 1 Partners
A display of Foster’s mastery of space and
light, especially in the central atrium of this
53-storey tower. The building is unusually
intimate despite its awesome scale.

Dubai Design District 05


Creative summit Al Fahidi Neighbourhood
Old Dubai
Pooling talents
Located on the banks of
Dubai Creek, the Al Fahidi
One of the city’s most interesting Historical Neighbourhood is
free economic zones, the Dubai the city’s birthplace. The Al
Design District, or D3, mixes office Fahidi fort dates back to
space with hospitality and retail. 1787 and traditional dhow
Home to fashion designers and boats still crisscross its
architects, advertising agencies waterways. This low-rise
quarter is a welcome break
and graphic artists, D3 also hosts from the city and offers an
events for creatives to share ideas. interesting perspective from
dubaidesigndistrict.com the ground.

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Architecture, design and fashion The Monocle Guide to Dubai

Katya Kovtunovich
Heat sensitive
Cooling clothing

Kovtunovich arrived in Dubai in


2010, when it barely had a fashion
industry. With no formal training in
fashion, she acquired a business
licence and began creating robes
and dresses inspired by patterns at
Dubai’s fabric markets. Her
signature designs feature sadu, the
fabric traditionally used for desert
divan seating. “People thought I
was crazy, using a sofa fabric for
clothes,” she says. “But it was
beautiful, so I did it.” Her firm
has now shipped to more than
60 countries.
katyakovtunovich.com

Pallavi Dean The Giving Movement


Roaring success Sustainable fashion
Involve your client Virtuous circles

Pallavi Dean’s studio Roar is mostly This Dubai-based sustainable


female and has tripled its team in activewear brand uses two
just four months. Roar’s unique sustainable materials for its
designs are based on careful collections: recycled nylon, made
research; as Dean puts it, “50 per from waste plastic water bottles,
cent wild and 50 per cent tame”. and certified organic bamboo
Dean says her team works best fabric, made from biodegradable
with engaged clients who want to pulp. The Giving Movement also
be involved in every element of the donates AED15 (€3.35) from every
process to create something item sold to partner charities
together. “The physical spaces Harmony House, a day centre for
where we spend most of our time street children, and Dubai Cares, an
influence everything we do,” she NGO that focuses on sustainability.
says. “People don’t realise how All the clothing is also made entirely
good design can affect you.” and proudly in the UAE.
designbyroar.com thegivingmovement.com

Ayesha Depala Atelier Janus Rostock


Artful apparel Great Dane
Dressing up Up and away

Based in the Dubai Design District, The man behind Dubai’s many
Indian fashion designer Ayesha masterplans is Janus Rostock, who
Depala’s couture, ready-to-wear worked for architecture and
and bridal lines are an international engineering firm Atkins and, more
success, with fans including recently, Aecom. This Danish
Aishwarya Rai, Kendall Jenner and architect’s understanding of urban
Yasmin Le Bon. Depala has been environments has filtered into the
awarded best designer in the city’s vernacular. “Being able to do
Middle East by Grazia, and the masterplans and architecture has
journals Gulf Business and Arabian been rewarding because it’s live,”
Business named her one of the 100 he says. “You draw a line and then
most influential Asians in the Gulf. you build it outside your window.
Depala’s creations are intended for Dubai Opera is a good example.
the “fashion-forward woman with Very few people get from the first
an old-fashioned soul”. sketch to the final building in just
ayesha-depala.com four years. It’s mind-boggling.”

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Hospitality and retail The Monocle Guide to Dubai

Served up Beach clubs


Coastal cuisine

World on New wave

Dubai is famous for its beach clubs,

a plate
which in the old days were where
notorious “Dubai brunches” took
place, with expats revelling
(somewhat indecorously at times)
all day. Like everything else in the
The variety of great food in the city is city, the beach club concept has
matured and the variety of coastal
simply staggering. Other cities stuck watering holes is impressive. You
in a polarised rut of Michelin stars or can expect to be pampered and
London launch
cardboard boxes of generic fast food A UK outpost, the Maine Mayfair, will open
primped as well as wined and
dined. The best of the bunch are
should take note. And Dubai’s retail scene at 20 Hanover Square, a homestead dating
Summersalt and Sal, both at the
back to 1720 in London this autumn. The
is following a similarly interesting route. restaurant will be divided into five rooms Jumeirah; Twiggy at the Park Hyatt;
across three floors and will have a giant and Nikki Beach for party people.
capacity of 350 diners. Go on, splash out.

Independent Food Company


Scratch cooking
Real food

Friends and restaurateurs Deem


Al Bassam and Amal Al Marri have
quietly created a successful food
empire, with a string of restaurants
in the UAE and Saudi Arabia that
serve delicious, unfussy dishes to
diners who regularly queue around
the block. “Our company is called
the Independent Food Company
because we don’t believe in
franchising,” says Al Marri. “We
create concepts from scratch and,
although popular in the region,
franchising doesn’t give us the
freedom and flexibility we need.”
indpt.com

Sahar Al Awadhi Akiba Dori


Just desserts Slice of the action
Sweet spot Toppings and crust

Tipped as a homegrown hero, When we meet motormouth


Sahar Al Awadhi is renowned entrepreneur Samer Hamadeh,
as one of the industry’s best founder of Japanese street food
Where to spend a day in the sun:
and the UAE’s first female pastry and pizza concept Akiba Dori, he The Maine for everyone. That meant top notch
chef. Driven by a love for high finishes a call before bursting into Top brasserie bloody marys and the crispiest 1 Summersalt: catchy name with an easy,
breezy atmosphere and delicious menu.
quality ingredients that are native to action and ordering us a truly Perfecting imperfection brussel sprouts – now signature
jumeirah.com
the region, Al Awadhi’s training in delicious marinara slice. “Our pizza orders. Ghazal designed the 2 Sal: a refined splurge and fantastic
Paris and Dubai led her to the Burj is one of the most complicated to A decade ago, Dubai-raised Joey interiors himself; chandeliers are views in the grounds of the Burj Al Arab.
Al Arab in 2016 where she is still the make in the world,” he says with Ghazal moved to Beirut and set against exposed brick and jumeirah.com
resident dessert queen. Although justifiable pride. “It takes 26 hours launched four restaurants in quick pipes. “A little imperfection makes 3 Twiggy: new kid on the block for
her creations are exquisite, her Shaping the culinary landscape
to prove and bakes in a 550C oven succession. “It was a big people feel at home,” he says. Now cocktails and people watching at the
The Independent Food Company runs an Park Hyatt.
influences stem from homely for less than a minute. The dough is experiment,” he says. “I learned a Ghazal has three Maine venues in twiggy.ae
astonishing seven restaurant and café
Emirati cooking and she is also half the weight of most American lot.” When he opened The Maine in Dubai and is opening another in 4 Nikki Beach: an old favourite that
brands in 24 locations across the UAE
now making waves beyond the and Saudi Arabia. Its next move is a hotel pizzas. And we bring our flour and Jumeirah Beach, he knew what he London. “That’s exciting, an export doesn’t disappoint with access to calm
Gulf region. concept built around the Somewhere our salt from Japan.” wanted: a chic, relaxed New from Dubai launching in Europe.” Gulf shallows.
jumeirah.com brand, which is inspired by travel. akibadori.com England brasserie with something themaine.ae nikkibeach.com

18 19
Hospitality and retail The Monocle Guide to Dubai

Authentic take Retail therapy


Five top tables Shopping arcades
Plate expectations Mall game

While dining out in Dubai has a Malls form the backbone of the
level of refinement to match (and retail experience in Dubai, and with
often surpass) every cosmopolitan good reason. In a city where
global capital, there are also some summer temperatures average 40C,
hidden gems that help to ground dawdling along the high street from
the culinary scene with their shop to shop is simply impossible.
authenticity and diversity. From a But don’t be a snob. Dubai malls
shack on the beach that serves are an experience unto themselves.
freshly caught grilled fish marinated Small-scale retailers sit side by side
in Indian spices to an Iranian that with the usual luxury suspects.
serves a mean crispy tahdig and a You’ll also find local Emiratis
Lebanese for late-night, mop-up enjoying a nibble at Ladurée,
grub, Dubai will surprise most with Cipriani or Eataly.
its range, quality and hospitality. thedubaimall.com,
We’ve rounded up some of our malloftheemirates.com
sure favourites.

Encounter culture Asian persuasion


Coffee to go Eastern flavours
Caffeine rush Get stuffed

Dubai has taken to caffeine in a big There are plenty of Michelin stars in
way. Coffee shops have become an Dubai but there is also a casual
indispensable staple of everyday scene that’s fuelled by the South
life and there are some very good East and East Asian diaspora. Chef
baristas steaming their trade. Tom Himanshu Saini is turning heads
Arnel, whose company Bull & Roo with modern Indian Trèsind and
is responsible for arguably the city’s Chang Sup Shin is a prominent
best cafés, has been at the food personality in the region for his
vanguard of coffee culture since 1004 Gourmet food market. Mimi
founding Melbourne-inspired café Kakushi recently opened in the Four
Tom&Serg eight years ago. Their Seasons; its 1920s, Osaka-inspired
latest venture Encounter, in the interior is reason enough to visit.
Foster-designed ICD Brookfield And for Peruvian-Nikkei, try Kayto
Place building is the perfect match at the Jumeirah Al Naseem.
for the calm of the lobby. tresind.com, 1004gourmet.com,
bullandroo.com mimikakushi.ae, jumeirah.com

Time Out Market Inspiring independents XVA Hotel and Gallery


Food for thought Boutique shopping World of interiors
Dishes with bite Top of the shops Good looks

Dubai’s Time Out market is the Beyond the myriad luxury retail “I like to say that Dubai hit puberty
first Middle East outpost of this options, Dubai has recently seen an at the same time as me,”says Grace
successful concept. Dozens of uptick in seriously cool indie shops. Hauser, the youthful director of XVA
Quick bites:
food kiosks offer a dazzling array Amongst Few is a homegrown Hotel and Gallery. “People here are
of dishes, from fluffy bao buns to 1 Al Ustadi: Best Iranian kebabs and a streetwear label that shares a developing more of an awareness
killer tahdig to boot.
slow-roast brisket; spicy chana dal space with a barber and café. and an appreciation for art,” she
2 Bu Qtair: South Indian, cafeteria-style
to crispy Vietnamese dumplings. fish fried in Indian spices. Frame at D3 stocks Japanese adds. “Dubai is such a young city in
This is a food lover’s dream. 3 Raju Omlet: Best way to start your day. clothing next to the Yui ramen shop; a very young nation. The glitz, glam
“People here really follow Time Out Raju will cook your eggs Indian-style or and YouBetterFly is an Emirati and novelty of going from a country
when they go out,” says marketing in 100 different ways. trainer consignment shop. Head to that wasn’t developed to a nation
manager Nazila Shafi. “This was 4 Al Mallah: From family dining to Hermione for edgy womenswear or that is has worn off and I’m happy
late-night after-hours, Lebanese
a perfect chance to curate the Al Mallah is a Dubai institution. drop in at S*uce on Sea for a tightly because the appreciation for art
best of Dubai’s culinary scene.” 5 Paluto: Buy your seafood from the chosen selection of beachwear. and things that are enjoyable to be
The airy venue also has a fully fishmonger by the waterfront market amongstfew.com, selectshopframe. around and look at in your home
stocked bar. in Deira and Paluto will fry, grill com, youbetterfly.com, has grown tremendously.”
timeoutmarket.com or stir-fry it for you. shopatsauce.com xvahotel.com

20 21
15 essential experiences The Monocle Guide to Dubai
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35 escillore

22 23
15 essential experiences

10
10
10
10 12
12
12
12 14
14
14
14
10
10 12
12 14
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35balmy souks.
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35 other partners.
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35 escillo
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oditia. 35
35 escilloreri occati oditia.
escilloreri occatioditia. 35 35

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13
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13 15
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15
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35 escilloreri
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oditia. 35
35 escilloreri occati
escilloreri occati
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oditia
oditia 35
35
35

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