Electrolytic Rust Removal Aka Magic

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Electrolytic Rust Removal aka Magic

by ToolNut on July 30, 2006
Table of Contents
intro: Electrolytic Rust Removal aka Magic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
step 1: Gather supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
step 2: Assemble tank and anodes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
step 3: Set up hanging clips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
step 4: Attach charger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
step 5: Attach rusted tool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
step 6: Power it up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
step 7: Check tool and remove and clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
step 8: Samples . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
step 9: Final Rust proofing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
step 10: FAQ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/
intro: Electrolytic Rust Removal aka Magic
This is a relatively simple, safe and cheap way to remove light or heavy rust from any ferrous object. I used this process to restore an old wood plane that I bought for $1
(it looked totally un-usable because of the rust). As opposed to grinding, heavy wire brushing and acid bath processes, this method removes none of the original steel
and is not noisy or caustic.
How this works:
Several other sites do a better job of explaining the chemistry of this - but basically you set up a conductive solution and insert some sacrificial anodes. You hang your
rusted tool in the solution and attach it to the negative end of the power supply. You attach the positive end to the anode and turn on the power. The current travels
through the solution and in the process flakes off the rust - the flaking/softening occurs because of the reaction at the surface of the good steel that pushes the rust off.
See this site

for more info on the chemistry of it all.
Image Notes Image Notes

1. closeup of previous photo L to R - Run in tank and cleaned - no tank 1. fill the wire nut with anti oxidant goop before you attache the steel wire to the
treatment - original rust. copper line
1. I used Noalox anti oxidant on this connection to keep the current strong after 1. Last rebar in line has a tail of coper wire left - it does not connect back to the
things begin to rust... first rebar
Image Notes
1. This was my first try - very hokey. the clamp was holding the wire to the tool.
Alligator clips were a good upgrade.
Image Notes
1. saw after about 15 minutes of running in the tank - the rust turns black
2. previsouly cleaned section
3. This section of the blade had some oil on it - which was preventing good
cleaning action. i re cleaned it with acetone and hit it with the power wire brush
before re-starting.
Image Notes
1. If the bubbles dont start to form within a minute or so you probably did
something wrong or there is a bad connection.
Image Notes
1. Original surface
2. no electrolysis but power brushed for the same amount of time as left side.
NOte the rust is very much still there and will come back almost immediatly.
3. cleaned for 1 hour and then wire brushed on grinder wheel for about 5
seconds per linear inch of blade.
step 1: Gather supplies
You will need:
This project cost me about $40 because I did not have access to a small battery charger. If you have a charger, then most folks with a decent shop full of crap can do it
for almost nothing.
- Clean 5 gallon spackle bucket or other plastic container to meet your size needs
- 5 sections of 18” long 1/2” steel rebar ($5 at Home Depot –
buy in longer sections as needed) (DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL)
- 5 feet 12 awg (or so) insulated copper wire in two colors
- 5 yellow wire nuts
- several red wire nuts
- 5 feet pliable tire wire (non insulated)
- Box of washing soda NOT baking soda
- Anti-oxidant goo (IE Noalox – This is not necessary
but helps I think.
- Small battery charger or home made power supply ($20-$50 at AutoZone etc) - Its best if the charger
has a 6v option and an internal "trouble" switch that stops charging if something shorts out.
- Variety pack of alligator clips from RadioShack (unless charger comes with decent ones…)
- Outside outlet or extension cord
- GFCI protected outlet (this is a must in my opinion - working around power and water is stupid unless
you have GFCI protection
- 5 gal water
- misc clamps/small boards
- drill with 1/4 bit
- wire cutting and twisting pliars (linemans tools are best
- wire brush (better if on a grinder or dremel tool)
- anti rust spray or light oil
step 2: Assemble tank and anodes
NOTE: Do not use stainless steel for the electrodes. As pointed out by a commenter on the intro page (thanks!) "The chrome in the stainless will leach out during the
electrolysis and form hexavalent chromium compounds in your electrolyte. These are extremely bad for you." This is true - dont even think about using stainless steel for
this project.
Assemble tank and electrodes
1) Space the rebar evenly around the bucket along the sides (running top to bottom). Mark the locations
2) Drill two small holes about 1/2 inch apart 2” down from rim for each rebar
3) Insert 5” of tire wire through the holes around the rebar and out again . Lube the ends of the bar with anti oxidant compound and twist the wire tight and snip off so 1”
of the wire is remaining.
4) Once all rebar is in place, make 4 sections of copper wire with the ends skinned off to connect each rebar wire.
5) Wire nut each rebar to the next with a section of cooper wire (connecting the protruding tire wire (I also used Noalox on these connections). Do not connect the first
and last rebar (ie: X---X---X---X---X---)
6) Add 5 tablespoons of washing soda to the bucket and fill within 2” of the rim with clean water (adding extra soda will not help…)

1. Last rebar in line has a tail of coper wire left - it does not connect back to the 1. I used Noalox anti oxidant on this connection to keep the current strong after
first rebar things begin to rust...
Image Notes
1. fill the wire nut with anti oxidant goop before you attache the steel wire to the
copper line
step 3: Set up hanging clips
Step 2:
1) Find a board (or any non-conductive object) to lay across the top of the bucket.
2) Attach a short lead of copper wire with an alligator clip attached to the water end. (I just stapled the wire to the board)
3) The clip should hang low enough to just enter the water. ( first photo below shows three clips - i was doing three parts at once..)
Image Notes
1. I usually scrape the clips back and forth on the tool (even after wire brushing a
clean spot) to make sure there is a good connection. On this saw i used two clips
just for overkill.
Image Notes
step 4: Attach charger
Don’t mess this step up – the polarity is important:
Make sure battery charger is OFF:
1) attach the positive (red +) end of the battery charger to the rebar wire
2) attach the negative (black -) end of the battery charger to the alligator clip over the water
3) I remember this by saying to myself “the rust flows off the tool towards the positive side”
Image Notes
1. Negative end to the tool
2. I actualy set the charger further away for safety - this was just for demonstration pics.
3. positive end to the rebar (anode) side.
step 5: Attach rusted tool

1) clean a small piece of the tool where you will attach the clip - choose a place where it will also hang securely.
2) Attach alligator clip (which is attached to the negative end of the charger) and and hang the tool completely in the water. Its ok if the clip is in the water – it wont hurt it.
Wiggle the clip to make sure you have a good connection.
3) Make sure the tool is attached firmly and is not touching the rebar or any part of the setup that is attached to the positive lead.
4) Areas of the tool that do not have a “line of sight” to the rebar will not be cleaned – if you have a complex part you might need to rotate it or add more rebar
electrodes.
Image Notes
1. I usually scrape the clips back and forth on the tool (even after wire brushing a
clean spot) to make sure there is a good connection. On this saw i used two clips
just for overkill.
Image Notes
Image Notes
1. Last rebar in line has a tail of coper wire left - it does not connect back to the
first rebar
step 6: Power it up
1) set the battery charger to a low setting (6v – 1.5 amp works great for me)
2) Turn on the charger.
You should see tiny bubbles start to form all over the tool. As the process progresses, the rust will start to flake off and the water will become muddied with rust and goop
and foam depending on how fast the bubbles are forming.
Image Notes
1. If the bubbles dont start to form within a minute or so you probably did something wrong or there is a bad connection.
step 7: Check tool and remove and clean

Depending on the size of the tool, the amount of power used, the amount of rust, and your patience, the process will take from 1 hour to two days. The longer you leave it
in the solution, the less work you will have to do to finish the clean up.
The tool will turn black and the rust changes form and flakes off.
If you leave it in long enough, you should be able to wipe the rust off with your finders and find a smooth (but pitted) surface. The nice part about this is that even after
only 1/2 hour, the rust is much easier to remove with a wire brush.
NOTE: the tool will not come out of the tank ready to paint. it will still need wire brushing or final polishing with steel wool. the process leaves a gray/black layer of oxidant
that you will probably want to remove prior to final rust-proofing or painting.
The photo of the saw below shows three stages: The left side was run for an hour and then brushed. The middle spot was steel brushed for the same amount of time but
without the electrolysis (and rust remained) and the right side is the original rust.
Image Notes
1. Original surface
2. no electrolysis but power brushed for the same amount of time as left side.
NOte the rust is very much still there and will come back almost immediatly.
3. cleaned for 1 hour and then wire brushed on grinder wheel for about 5
seconds per linear inch of blade.
Image Notes
1. saw after about 15 minutes of running in the tank - the rust turns black
2. previsouly cleaned section
3. This section of the blade had some oil on it - which was preventing good
cleaning action. i re cleaned it with acetone and hit it with the power wire brush
before re-starting.
Image Notes
1. closeup of previous photo L to R - Run in tank and cleaned - no tank
treatment - original rust.
step 8: Samples
Here are a few samples:
The chisel was very rusted – normal rust removal would have required much original steel grinding to remove the deep pits that a wire brush would not have touched.
Check out the stamp that was revealed after cleaning.
The entire project was started because I bought this sweet plane that was totally rusted. I only paid a few bucks, but knew that a used non-rusted one was worth quite a
chunk of change. After the tank proces it took about an hour of going over it with the light wire brush wheel on the dremel to shine it up – but it would have been
impossible without the electrolysis first.
step 9: Final Rust proofing
If you are not going to paint the tool then it will require immediate rust proofing.
I use this spray T-9 stuff that Highland Hardware sells
– but I think there are some less noxious easier to clean up products out there like Camellia oil
step 10: FAQ
How big/small of an object can I do?
- My browsing around on the web found people doing anything from small parts in a 1/2 gallon tub to a trailer body in a swimming pool using a large welder for the power.
Does the solution "wear out"?
- No - it just gets nasty
How much power should I use?
- As little as possible to still get the job done. I think you will get better results with low power and two days of processing than high power and getting it done in an hour.
The larger the object (surface area) the more power required to do it in a given amount of time. My charger is 1.5 amp 6 volt and works great for hand tools. the small
stuff takes a few hours. The larger complex plane took a day and a half before i was happy with the amount of removal.
Is this dangerous?
- Only if you don’t have any common sense and don’t use a GFCI protected power source.
- Yes if you do it inside - the bubbles forming are evidently hydrogen which is flammable. Outside it does not cause any problems.
- The low voltage is pretty safe - especially if your charger has an automatic cut off "trouble" switch.
Are there any drawbacks to this system?
- Some people say that depending on the power and time involved, the steel can become brittle due to a temporary change in structure. This is cured by "baking" the tool
for a few hours at 350 in the oven or letting it sit around for a few months before any hard use. see the links below for more info. I have not found this to be a problem.
These guys deserve the credit for teaching me how to do this and provide way more info on this system:
http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm#top
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 196 comments
sotero58 says: Aug 13, 2008. 5:08 PM REPLY

I went out looking for super washing soda in different super markets and walmart. The only thing I found is Arm & Hammer detergent, The box doesn't say
detergent, but it contains anionic, nonionic, surfactant and sodium carbonate. I asked the sales people and they did not know of the product with the photo
you have in the article.
Is this detergent the same thing as washing soda?

Where can I purchased the one listed in the article?
Thanks for the information, I can't wait to try it.
latemtech says: May 27, 2009. 12:11 PM REPLY

do not use deterent! the other chemicals in it, like the surfacants, hinders the chemical reactionsand make a mess. I already tried this and it didnt do well
and left a white film behind on the part. use baking sodea and baked it at 350 for an hour if you cant wait or order it online. get two box cuz the shipping
will be free. http://www.greatcleaners.com/ah-soda-booster.html
latemtech says: May 26, 2009. 11:15 AM REPLY

I ordered two box of washing soda from http://www.greatcleaners.com/ah-soda-booster.html. The shipping is free since i ordered 2 box. it arrived in 5
days. I am doing the same thing to derust my brake caliper. It take a long time but it better than using dangerous chemicals.
jeff-o says: May 27, 2009. 6:44 AM REPLY

Let me know if this works for you. I've got a rusted disc brake caliper that I'd much rather repair than replace, and I've considered this method to do it.

It works great! It turned black and I took a paint and rust stripper (a drill attachment that look like a plastic brillo pad on a spindle) that I got at
Autozone. Although I found out I gotta spray it down with wd-40 or it will flash rust again. Someone said to bake it at 300 for an hour to drive out
all the moisture so im gonna try that later and then wipe it down with acetone and spray it with high temp caliper paint. I did come across one
difficult situation. the inside of the caliper piston, I had to take a dremel grinding disk to it.
Also I found out that if you take a baking soda, spread it out evenly on a baking pan, and bake it at 350 degree for an hour, it will turn into sodium
carbonate or aka washing soda ( got this from the encyclopedia).

Ah! So you're working on a caliper on a car? Mine's from a bike. ;)
My problem is the rust inside the pistons. The brake is hydraulic and I can't take it apart to actually reach the pistons inside...

put an aligator clamp on the piston, use low current (1 amp) and leave it overnight. It not going to completely derust but it be a whole lot
softer and easier to remove. I used a dremel attachment grinding disk.it about .75" in diameter so it was small enough to fit inside the
piston. wear goggle. dremel spins at 30,000rpm so u dont want things flying into ur eye. I wasnt totally concerned with the rust inside the
piston because you cant see it. I wasnt going to paint it. I left the rubber boot on it, no changes in the physical of it.
jeff-o says: May 27, 2009. 9:39 PM REPLY

Alas, the piston is almost completely inaccessible, not only by an alligator clip but especially a dremel. It's seized up inside. I actually
did try removing the rust by electrolysis already, but I only left it in for a few hours. I'll have to try again...

when you said inside, are you able to see it or it an inaccessible area? maybe sending me a picture, Ican surely help you from
there.

You can barely see it, from the side. The gap in which the disc brake rotor passes through is narrow, half a centimeter maybe.
i dont know what kind of tool you got at home but i hope this helps. secure the caliper down GOOD! (vise clamp?) Spray it
down with pb blaster, every 10 min for an hour then take a metal brush that has a long brittle, long enough to reach
through it but not longer than that. go scrubbing. elbow grease all the way. or take a small screw driver, flathead, and grind
the flathead until it become a sharp tiny chisel. chip away the rust. most screwdriver are chromoly so they are harder than
steel and certainly harder than rust. or just buy one of those dangerous chemical rust remover.
if this isnt feasible, get a plastic container, just big enough for the caliper (spagetti sauce container?) pour in sand to fill 1/3
of the way. put in the caliper. shake... however, shaking gonna tire you out. so this is what i did, i took a long screw, put it
thru the cap, bolt it down thru the cap, put a drill on a vice clamp and put the screw on the drill. tie down the trigger. make
sure it on slow speed. dude, i never wrote an instructables but now i think i should. huh.
jeff-o says: May 28, 2009. 1:12 PM REPLY

Oh! Well if I could remove the piston from the caliper I'd be fine. But it doesn't come out. For some reason the caliper
body is made of aluminum (or magnesium, maybe?) but the piston inside is plain old steel. Just poor design.
I'll see if the caliper can be disassembled. Perhaps I'll call a bike shop about it.
Thanks for all your help, though!!
sensoryhouse says: Feb 10, 2009. 3:08 PM REPLY

Tell me about it. I spent hours trying to find it. I tried QFC, then Bartell's, Rite Aid, Safeway, nothing. What a bunch of noobs. Then i went to Fred Meyer
which had the glowing box fully stocked and on display. Thanks Freddie.
Dutch56 says: Feb 4, 2009. 8:48 AM REPLY

Another source for Sodium Carbonate is PH+. PH+ is an swimming pool additive. PH+ can usually be found anywhere that swimming pool supplies are
sold. I use 1 tablespoon of PH+ per gallon of water.
I use a similar setup for removing rust from cast iron fry pans and dutch ovens.
mrjack says: May 27, 2009. 11:24 AM REPLY

Great instructable, wish i would thought to do it first. I did this last year with a garbage can and the deck for my riding mower, one half at a time. I used two
really nice pieces of 2" angle aluminum as the anodes. I also put a 12 volt battery in line with the charger. I tried a bunch of different ways but those two
really cleaned up the deck incredibly fast.
The super washing soda I found at I believe a Jewel Osco in Chicago, at least i remember it being at one of the larger stores.
gabethegeek says: Feb 3, 2009. 10:04 PM REPLY

This is a very good instructable. I must however make one corrections.
The low voltage doesn't necessarily make it safe. It is current, not voltage that causes harm. Clearly a higher voltage is able to push more current through
someone's body but under the right conditions, a very low voltage can push a fair amount of current your body. If you do this you should make absolutely
sure that nobody who doesn't know about it goes near it. With the electrolytic solution, 24, 12, or even 6 volts could do some real damage. Don't let this
scare you off from a great project though. Just be careful and use common sense. Don't put your hands in the water and don't touch the setup while the
power is on. Always unplug the power source before touching anything and you are guaranteed to be safe.
rocketguy says: May 27, 2009. 9:55 AM REPLY

Actually you do need to reach a threshold of voltage to overcome the resistance of your skin before you're affected by any level of current. While
anything with a lot of amps is due some respect, if it's at, say, 4 volts, it's not likely to fry you, unless you've managed to really douse yourself in salt
water and stuck your fingers in the wrong places. The effects of electrocution vary with voltage levels as well as type of current (ac vs dc). AC is
potentially more dangerous due to interference with cardiac rhythms, but below 50 volts this is unlikely to happen. At higher voltages nerve induction
does nasty things, and then at even higher voltages it just burns the hell out of you, without much penetration into the internal organs. Of course if you
have both voltage and a ton of amps you can be entirely vaporized, as happened with an individual who threw the breakers on a very large printing
press... while they were still running. The inrush current resulted in an arc discharge much like a tiny nuclear explosion, vaporizing pretty much
everything in a small radius around the breaker. They found his boots melted to the floor, feet still in.
All that said, is it really so hard to just use some rubber gloves?
gabethegeek says: May 27, 2009. 10:53 AM REPLY

What you are saying is very true however, if you have very sweaty hands or some other electrolyte on your hands, a 12 V car battery can do some
real damage. It is unlikely but very possible.
You can also get a serious burn if you are wearing jewelery that gets fried.
Just because you are working with low voltage doesn't mean you don't have to observe proper precautions.
ejensen99999 says: Apr 2, 2009. 6:08 PM REPLY

I've been doing this for years and you don't need "washing" soda baking soda is fine. I use a generic and it eats heavy rust like a bum on a baloney
sandwich. You can also use salt although is does tend to release minute amounts of chlorine so ventilate. Add both to hot water until saturated.
I like to use a hard drive spindle with all the platters still on as the anode
I've used salt before and it does work. Of course, I did it outside!
AnnArborBuck says: Apr 3, 2009. 10:37 PM REPLY

You can make washing soda by heating baking soda in the oven for an hour or so at 350.
bustedit says: May 27, 2009. 6:28 AM REPLY

very nice. i came across this method a few yrs ago after aquiring a German WWII stahlhelm in relic condition, completely covered in rust and w 2 shrapnel
holes, but I was afraid it would just disappear if I tried this. After looking at your before and after pictures of that plane, I may chance it. maybe.
alex-sharetskiy says: May 26, 2009. 9:28 PM REPLY

very informative
jonathryn says: May 13, 2009. 7:35 AM REPLY

Could you use steel or aluminum window mesh for the anode instead of rebar, so as to create a more uniform, 360-degree line-of-sight?
Coolerman says: Mar 27, 2009. 4:25 PM REPLY

Great and timeley instructables. I am in the process of trying to remove rust from a lawn mower gas tank so this will be very helpful. But what will it do to
aluminum. Gas tank has an aluminum top section that carberator fits to(Tecumsci style), so does anyone know what will happen to the aluminum fittings &
top sections?? Once again great idea.
Rager says: Mar 6, 2009. 3:07 AM REPLY

A couple of comments;
I used dry dishwasher detergent. It's serious tough on work clothes too!
And I wonder if anyone has rigged up a UPS to provide power for the cleaning? I have used a couple of low power wall warts, rigged up. Now I have a small
battery charger.
tmn8tr says: Feb 14, 2009. 5:41 AM REPLY

awesome instructable. You've given the basic DIY'er the ammo as well as the confidence to build their own Electro-Stripper! Don't worry too much about the
electricity, as you've already stated it IS VERY important to be hooked up to a GFCI outlet, and keep your power source from 1.5-5 amps. A person could
also use anywhere from one - three 12v automotive batteries, depending on the size of the piece of metal. This is how it was done in the "old days". What
you have here is essentially an electro-plating bath, without the hazardous Potassium Cyanide solution. You are essentially plating the rust onto the re-bar.
(That ought to get some brains warmed up.) anyway, nice job!
ToolNut says: Feb 16, 2009. 4:51 AM REPLY

Thanks!

Thanks for the great 'ible!
Here's mine (click to see it in HD)

nice setup! what is the steel sheet from?
Here's my first finished piece, forgot to take a before picture.
Click here to see it in HD
ToolNut says: Feb 12, 2009. 2:53 PM REPLY

sweet! I love that thing. There really is something addictive about how clean and shiny this stuff gets (especially in those stampings - could never
get that clean with wire brush or acid etc). I need to get my setup back in order. Some of the connections rusted apart and I have not re-vamped
the set up....

I was noobin it up. I took a old paper towl dispenser, pounded it flat, then curved it. But turns out I'm not supposed to use stainless, so I've since
replaced it with two steel steel plates.
I just got my battery charger about two weeks ago from my father. I had to chuckle a little when i saw you had posted an "ible with the same charger.
jimleff says: Oct 7, 2008. 1:23 AM REPLY

Toolnut:
Thanks for putting this together.
I was unable to find Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate) in stores in my area as well. I did, however, find that I could purchase it on drugstore.com.
Please let your other (frustrated) readers know. It was $6 for the product and about the same to ship to Seattle.
Jim
tornadoboy says: Oct 10, 2008. 7:27 AM REPLY

Try using some sort of PH control product meant to alkalize swimming pools, I picked up a big jar for $14 and it is enough to last me years. They can be
gotten at any pool supply store and most are pure sodium carbonate, although be sure to read the label as a few are actually sodium bicarbonate.
tornadoboy says: Oct 16, 2008. 6:56 AM REPLY

I just tried it on a rust-frozen drill press chuck that I've been trying to loosen forever, it worked like a charm. Be careful to do it outside though, it
produces a TON of hydrogen, and as the Germans can testify that's not something to be taken lightly.

LOL
Jmiller87 says: Feb 5, 2009. 2:45 PM REPLY

I am thinking about using this to clean up some old truck wheels and was wondering what effects at all on Chrome?

Cant remember if I mentioned this somewhere before now, but I understand that the chrome can react and create a very hazardous chemical compound.
I would NOT put anything chrome in there. I'll try to post a reference link soon. Thanks for asking!
Jmiller87 says: Feb 10, 2009. 9:35 AM REPLY

Thanks, I'm not really sure what the wheels are, I would imagine they are either steel or chrome but all the snow melt has taken a major toll on my
wheels this year!
Now that I think more - I think it may have been stainless steel that you should not use. I still wouldn't do chrome until you confirm that it will be safe.
gnomedriver says: Feb 6, 2009. 6:30 PM REPLY

Archaeologists use a similar to the treatment for iron objects found in damp or marine conditions. An iron object removed from the damp will rust faster than
if it had been left there. I am not sure of the chemical reason but it has something to do with ions and free electrons and some of the comments here have
given a good explanation of what happens.
The iron object is put into a caustic bath connected to an electrode or an anode and the process of removing the ions from the iron. (It has been a long time
since I sat in chemistry class).
A friend found a rusted pistol frame in a sand dune. He kept it as a souvenir but the gun dissolved into a pile of rust after a couple of years after surviving
decades in a sand dune. If you find something that could be of historic important, please leave it for the experts to deal with.
koekkoek says: Feb 6, 2009. 1:05 PM REPLY

I feel like adding two comments:
-Gas mask if you have no idea what the hell you are doing, & you think noxious gas might be emitted from whatever piece you are cleaning. (Note on
noxious gases, Naptha is a noxious gas.)
Don't forget to put your hand over the filter to suction it to your face. 2 day headaches are not fun b/c you were stupid.
-Ground. Bare skin, to the earth. Just a good idea when dealing with wires with a current going through them & you plan on touching them bare skinned.
-Oh yes, one more, OUTSIDE.
-Oh, one more, don't seal or put a lid on the bucket. Build up of pressure = bad. The gas needs to evaporate & be absorbed by the air.
Thank you.
;)
koekkoek says: Nov 12, 2008. 5:52 PM REPLY

Hydrogen is the ultimate antioxidant. :)
Um, but isn't the safety thing here on hydrogen gas meeting oxygen as a gas and not a liquid? You can't reburn H20 but wouldn't you be worried if you were
separating hydrogen from oxygen, and then something sparked? Isn't it not the voltage of the battery you are using but the hydrogen & oxygen you are
separating that you should be worried about? But I don't know much about that stuff. But wouldn't it provide an explosion if hydrogen & oxygen gas is
emitted? I'm pretty sure hydrogen & oxygen burn the best out of everything on earth.
Also I'm pretty sure its the sodium that makes something a salt. Baking powder is also a salt. Its the chloride in Sodium Chloride that is bad not the salt.
Just using common sense here.
pindalanderz says: Feb 6, 2009. 10:20 AM REPLY

ever heard of electrolysis? it would take like a couple pounds of white phosphorus to ignite water. and I'm not even sure that would work. ever tried to
start steam on fire. me neither, but my guess is that no voltage could do it. think about lightning. the thunder afterwards is popping water molecules.
someone tell me when they can generate something to make water explode.
rocketguy says: Feb 3, 2009. 9:34 AM REPLY

The small amount of hydrogen generated isn't going to be an issue outside, it'll dissipate rapidly. While burning hydrogen and oxygen is the most efficient
burn process possible chemically, it needs to be trapped before it can build up into a quantity that is significant.
Electrolysis/hydrogen power systems require really good filtering due to the gas storage involved, as you are correct that the combined hydrogen/oxygen
mix from filtration leakage can lead to an impressive boom.
An open bucket in the back yard isn't going to build up a significant concentration, after all, hydrogen rises pretty quickly on it's own. So don't do it inside
where it can get trapped and ignited by a fan motor or something.
Andsetinn says: Feb 18, 2009. 9:17 AM REPLY

Everyone is worried by Hydrogen. Hydrogen needs spark to explode. But oxygen can explode without spark. If pure oxygen contacts oil, kaboom.
That's at least what I was told in welding class.
If someone decides to use this method for rust removal. The odds for anything dangerous happening, if people use common sense, are about one in
a million.
Unfortunately most people don't have common sense :) but if you never do anything because you're afraid something bad might happen. Then you
never do anything.

Now technically oxygen itself doesn't explode, it just helps other things explode BIGGER.
chuckr44 says: Jan 29, 2009. 10:02 AM REPLY

Salts are a particular group of compounds. You do not need sodium in a compound to make a salt. For example, potassium chloride is also a "salt".
frenzone says: Feb 5, 2009. 9:16 AM REPLY
Excuse me for my ignorance, but what does GFCI stand for? thanks!
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Electrolytic Rust Removal Aka Magic

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Electrolytic Rust Removal aka Magic

intro: Electrolytic Rust Removal aka Magic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

step 1: Gather supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

step 2: Assemble tank and anodes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

step 3: Set up hanging clips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

step 4: Attach charger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

step 5: Attach rusted tool . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

step 7: Check tool and remove and clean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

step 9: Final Rust proofing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

step 10: FAQ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Make Magazine Special Offer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

How this works:

See this site

Image Notes Image Notes

Assemble tank and electrodes

Image Notes Image Notes

Make sure battery charger is OFF:

step 5: Attach rusted tool

2) Turn on the charger.

step 7: Check tool and remove and clean

I use this spray T-9 stuff that Highland Hardware sells

Does the solution "wear out"?

- No - it just gets nasty

How much power should I use?

Are there any drawbacks to this system?

sotero58 says: Aug 13, 2008. 5:08 PM REPLY

Is this detergent the same thing as washing soda?

latemtech says: May 27, 2009. 12:11 PM REPLY

latemtech says: May 26, 2009. 11:15 AM REPLY

jeff-o says: May 27, 2009. 6:44 AM REPLY

latemtech says: May 27, 2009. 8:32 AM REPLY

jeff-o says: May 27, 2009. 9:28 AM REPLY

latemtech says: May 27, 2009. 12:06 PM REPLY

jeff-o says: May 27, 2009. 9:39 PM REPLY

latemtech says: May 28, 2009. 6:15 AM REPLY

jeff-o says: May 28, 2009. 7:36 AM REPLY

jeff-o says: May 28, 2009. 1:12 PM REPLY

Thanks for all your help, though!!

sensoryhouse says: Feb 10, 2009. 3:08 PM REPLY

Dutch56 says: Feb 4, 2009. 8:48 AM REPLY

mrjack says: May 27, 2009. 11:24 AM REPLY

gabethegeek says: Feb 3, 2009. 10:04 PM REPLY

rocketguy says: May 27, 2009. 9:55 AM REPLY

gabethegeek says: May 27, 2009. 10:53 AM REPLY

ejensen99999 says: Apr 2, 2009. 6:08 PM REPLY

AnnArborBuck says: Apr 3, 2009. 10:37 PM REPLY

bustedit says: May 27, 2009. 6:28 AM REPLY

alex-sharetskiy says: May 26, 2009. 9:28 PM REPLY

jonathryn says: May 13, 2009. 7:35 AM REPLY

Coolerman says: Mar 27, 2009. 4:25 PM REPLY

Rager says: Mar 6, 2009. 3:07 AM REPLY

tmn8tr says: Feb 14, 2009. 5:41 AM REPLY

ToolNut says: Feb 16, 2009. 4:51 AM REPLY

sensoryhouse says: Feb 9, 2009. 9:08 PM REPLY

Here's mine (click to see it in HD)

ToolNut says: Feb 10, 2009. 9:01 AM REPLY

Click here to see it in HD

ToolNut says: Feb 12, 2009. 2:53 PM REPLY

sensoryhouse says: Feb 10, 2009. 3:05 PM REPLY

jimleff says: Oct 7, 2008. 1:23 AM REPLY

Thanks for putting this together.