756

24. Struik, L. C. E., "Physical Aging in Amorphous Polymers
and Other Materials," Elsevier, Amsterdam, 1978.
25. Watt, I. C., and D’Arcy, R. L., Water Vapour Adsorption
Isotherms of Wool, J. Textile Inst. 70, 298-307 (1979).
26. Wortmann, F.-J., and Zahn, H., The Influence of Water
and Organic Solvents on the Rheological Properties of
Individual Wool Fibers (in German), in "Proc. 6th Int.
Wool Textile Res. Conf. Pretoria," vol. II, 1980, pp. 323-
337.
27. Wortmann, F.-J., Rigby, B. J., and Phillips, D. G., The
Glass Transition Temperature of Wool as a Function of
Regain, Textile Res. J. 54, 6-9 ( 1985).
28. Yositomi, T., Nagamatsu, K., and Kosiama, K., On the
Stress Relaxation of Nylon 6, J. Polym. Sci. 27, 335-
347 (1958).
Mamm’ript received Febmary 8. /985: accepted Jllne 27, 1985.

An Evaluation of Nep Formation at the Cotton Gin

1
GINO J. MANGIALARDI, JR.
U.S. Cotton Ginning Laboratory, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Stoneville, Mississippi 38776, U.S.A.

ABSTRACT
Experiments were conducted to determine the effects of moisture content, processing
rate, and gin machinery type on nep formation. Using a seed cotton cleaning machinery
sequence recommended by the USDA ginning laboratories for Midsouth spindle har-
vested cotton, two lint moisture levels were tested at two process rates with three stages
of saw cylinder lint cleaners. Samples for nep count analyses were obtained at seven
locations in the ginning machinery sequence. These were tested with the USDA AMS
standard method, which measures the number of neps in 645 cm 2 of web. For the
treatments studied, the gin stand and saw cylinder lint cleaners were the major con-
tributors to the formation of neps at gins.

Cotton neps are created when fibers become tangled is used for counting neps in yarn. This is an electronic
during the harvesting, ginning, and processing opera- instrument that gives the number of yarn neps per
tions. They may be a source of trouble in manufac- 914.4 m [10].
turing and finishing, and they detract from appearance Chapman and Stedronsky showed in tests on Acala
in yarn and fabric [ 10]. cottons in the Southwest that saw ginned lint from ma-
For the nep count test conducted by the Agricultural chine picked defoliated cotton had slightly more neps
Marketing Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture, a than did the lint from undefoliated cottons, and fibers
lint sample is mechanically blended and then processed from late-harvested cottons were more susceptible to
into a thin web using special equipment. The neps in nepping than early-harvested cotton. This was attrib-
the web are counted by technicians and the results uted to the defoliated and late-harvested cottons
having
converted to the number of neps per 645 cm2 of web. more immature fibers that were low in micronaire
The Uster evenness testerz with imperfection indicator readings or very fine [3].
In studies on nep formation in cotton during ginning,
’
In cooperation with Mississippi Agricultural and Forestry Ex- Leonard showed that mechanical treatment of seed
periment Station, Delta Branch, Stoneville, Mississippi 38776. cotton prior to ginning affects the number of neps in
2
Mention of a trade name, proprietary product, or specific equip- both saw and roller ginned lint, the neps increasing
ment does not constitute a guarantee or warranty by the U.S. De-
partment of Agriculture and does not imply approval of the product with more severe treatment. He also showed that saw
to the exclusion of others that may be available.
gin seed roll density affects nep formation, with neps

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increasing with increased roll density [6]. Other re-
searchers confirmed that low nep count in ginned lint
is typical of roll ginned cotton when compared to the
count for saw ginned cotton [5].
Lint cleaning of Midsouth cottons in 1967-68 im-
proved the grade classification but increased the num-
ber of neps in the card web. Card webs produced in
spinning tests contained an average 15, 22, 29, and 30
neps/645 CM2 for cottons ginned with none, one, two,
and three stages of saw cylinder cleaning, respec-
tively [7].
In 1982, researchers at the U.S. Cotton Ginning
Laboratory, Stoneville, Mississippi, examined the ef-
fects of cotton moisture content, processing rate, and
gin machinery type on total nep formation in a ginning
system. This report presents the result of that study.
The information we obtained will be used as guidelines
in planning extensive scientific investigations into the
mechanism of creating neps in cotton or for reducing
the potential for nep formation in later mill processes.
Methodology
The experiments were conducted in the U.S. Cotton
Ginning Laboratory’s gin plant in Stoneville, using
commercial equipment. The seed cotton drying and
cleaning sequence consisted of a 24 shelf tower drier,
6 cylinder cleaner; stick, leaf, and hull machine; 24
shelf tower drier; 6 cylinder cleaner; and extractor
feeder. The ginning system included an 88 saw (30.5-
cm-diameter) gin stand followed by a flow-through air
lint cleaner and three stages of saw cylinder lint
cleaning.
Seed cotton used in the experiments was grown and
spindle harvested by the Delta Branch, Mississippi
Agricultural and Forestry Experiment Station in
Stoneville and by a private grower. Harvesting was
performed September 17-October 4, 1982, and the
cotton ginned September 23-October 16, 1982.
Twenty-four ’/3 bale lots of spindle harvested cotton
were processed from two cotton varieties. The cotton
varieties were Delta Branch Experiment Station 56
(DES 56) and Stoneville 825 and are shown in the tables
as cottons A and B, respectively. Each variety was pro-
cessed in three replications. Each replication of each
variety was ginned from a unit of 1’/3 bales of similar
cotton, with a’/3 bale lot receiving one of four different
treatments. About 218 kg of seed cotton was used in
each test lot.
The treatments involved two cotton moisture levels
and two seed cotton processing rates. The experimental
plan called for cottons at fiber moisture levels of 3 and
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757
7% each to be processed at rates of 2.2 and 4.4 bales/
hour. The control would be the lot ginned at 4.4 bales/
hour and at 7% fiber moisture content - about that
recommended by the USDA ginning laboratories for
Midsouth spindle harvested cotton. The 3% moisture
level cotton would be considered over-dried [4].
Moisture content was controlled by adjusting the
drying temperatures. For the higher moisture level,
tower drier no. 1 operated at ambient to 82°C and no
heat was used on tower drier no. 2. Both driers operated
at 121 °C on the low moisture treatment.
Ginning by adjusting the feed at the
rate was set
master feed controller and extractor feeder. Except for
the low moisture and low feed rate treatments, the ma-
chinery used in the experiments operated according to
manufacturer’s recommendations for commercial cot-
ton ginning plants.
Samples were taken from each of the 24 test lots
according to a time schedule during ginning. Samples
were obtained for determining seed cotton moisture
and foreign matter contents at the wagon and feeder
apron, lint moisture levels during ginning and lint
cleaning, nonlint content and classer’s grade and staple
length at the press, and fiber testing.
Moisture contents were determined by oven drying
the samples by ASTM Standard Method D 2495 [1].
Seed cotton foreign matter contents were ascertained
by the fractionation procedure 181 and lint foreign
matter contents by Shirley Analyser tests, ASTM Stan-
dard Method D 2812 [2].
Fiber test samples were taken at seven locations in
the ginning sequence for nep count analyses. This in-
volved roller ginning seed cotton at the wagon and
feeder apron for lint sampling, and collecting ginned
lint after the gin stand and flow-through air lint cleaner,
and each of the three stages of saw cylinder lint clean-
ing. The neps were counted per 645 CM2 of web. The
web was prepared by using accessory equipment with
the fiber blender [ 1 O]. Fiber tests on samples collected
immediately before the bale press included micronaire
readings and causticaire fiber maturity. The U.S. Agri-
cultural Marketing Service classed the samples at
Greenwood, Mississippi, and made fiber tests at Clem-
South Carolina.
son,
The experimental design involved two cotton har-
vestings/varieties, three replications, two fiber moisture
levels, two cotton process rates, and seven machinery
locations. The nep data for the experiments were an-
alyzed statistically by analysis of variance. The sources
of error and the distribution of degrees of freedom are
shown in Table I. Significant nep count differences at
the 5% level were determined between the seven sam-
pling locations by Duncan’s new multiple range test [9].
758
TABLE I. Analysis of variance for nep data from cottons A and
Moisture, process rate, and moisture X.rate were tested using the AOV
Results
Initial seed cotton moisture contents averaged 11.4
and 8.8% for cottons A and B. Initial seed cotton foreign
matter contents averaged 6.4 and 7.7%.
After seed cotton drying and cleaning, moisture
contents of the seed cotton averaged 7.4% for the
heavily dried treatments compared to 8.6% for the
moderately dried treatments. Seed cotton foreign mat-
ter level had been reduced to about 1.9%.
Lint samples taken after ginning but before lint
cleaning showed that the average lint moisture content
for the low moisture level treatment actually ranged
from 2.8 to 3.4% (Table II). Corresponding moisture
contents for the high moisture level treatment ranged
from 4.5 to 5.6%. For all test lots, the low and high
moisture levels averaged 3.0 and 5.0%, respectively.
The planned 7% moisture content was not obtained
because of the low initial seed cotton moisture level
and the low ambient relative humidity prevailing dur-
ing ginning.
--- -
TABLE li. Lint moisture content and ginning rate for four lint
’
Each data point is the average of three replications.
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B.’
mean square for replication X moisture X rate as an error term.
The actual ginning rate obtained in the study aver-
aged 1.8 and 4.1 bales/hour for the two planned process
rates (Table II). This corresponds to 4.4 and 10.1 kg
of lint per gin stand saw per hour.
The classer’s composite grade designations were strict
low middling plus (SLM+) and middling white (M)
after lint cleaning for the test cottons. The grades av-
eraged one-half grade higher on the treatment where
the lint moisture content at ginning averaged 3.0% and
the process rate was 1.8 bales/hour, compared to grades
where the moisture content averaged 5.0% and the
processing rate was 4.1 bales/hour. Foreign matter
content in the lint trended lower as the moisture con-
tent decreased or as the process rate was lowered. The
staple length of the ginned lint averaged 27.4 mm in
the experiments and appeared to decrease slightly as
the average lint moisture content decreased.
Caustaire maturity index for cotton A averaged 74%,
the causticaire fineness averaged 4.6 ~g/25.4 mm, and
the micronaire readings averaged 4.1 units (Table III).
moisture and process rate treatments, cottons A and B’
 759
i

TABLE IV. Summary of nep count data for moisture content,

Corresponding readings for cotton B averaged 78%,
process rate, and location treatments, cottons A and B.’
5.0 lAg/25.4 mm, and 4.6 units.
During gin processing, cotton A produced fiber con-
taining a higher level of neps than that sampled from
cotton B (Table III). When processed with the higher
moisture level and process rate treatment, fiber from
cotton A contained 43 neps per 645 CM2 (100 of in.2)
web after three stages of saw cylinder lint cleaning,
compared to 34 neps/645 CM2 for cotton B.
Changing the average lint moisture content at gin-
ning from 3 to 5% or increasing the seed cotton process
rate from 1.8 to 4.1 bales/hour did not significantly
change, at the 5% level, the average number of neps
counted in the web (Tables I and IV). There were also
no significant changes in the nep counts attributed to
interaction between moisture content and process rate,
and this was true for cottons A and B.
For the four moisture and process rate treatments,
b
the average number of neps in the web increased from I
Data are the averages of three replications. Means in the
column followed by different letters are significantly diffenent at the
about 6 at the wagon to 42 neps/645 CM2 as cotton A C
Locations are at the wagon, feeder apron, and after
5% level.
passed through the ginning sequence to the baling press the gin stand, flow-through air lint cleaner, and each of three saw
(Table IV). Cotton B showed a 5 to 32 neps/645 CM2 cylinder lint cleaners.

TABLE III. Fiber maturity data and neps per 645 cm&dquo; for lint sampled at seven locations in the ginning system,
four lint moisture and process rate treatments, cottons A and B.’

a
Each data point is the average of three replications. Locations are at the wagon, feeder apron, and after the gin stand, Bow-through air
lint cleaner, and each of three saw cylinder lint cleaners.

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760
increase during its passage from wagon to baling press.
The increases attributed to drying and seed cotton
cleaning, the gin stand, and each stage of saw cylinder
lint cleaning were all significant at the 5% level for both
cottons. These increases ranged from 5 to 8 neps/645
cm2 on cotton A and from 3 to 7 neps/645 CM2 on
cotton B. The increases produced by the gin stand and
each saw cylinder lint cleaner unit were about as great
as the increases produced by the entire seed cotton
drying and cleaning system. The air jet lint cleaner did
not significantly affect the nepping of the cotton. No
significant interactions in the nep count data were
measured between moisture level, process rate, and lo-
cation treatment combinations.
In a standard gin plant, the formation of neps can
be minimized by using only the number of lint cleaners
necessary to achieve the desired grade. Under the con-
ditions of the experiments, eliminating the three stages
of saw cylinder lint cleaning would reduce the neps/
645 CM2 from 37 to 17, a 54% reduction (Figure 1).
Using one saw cylinder lint cleaner instead of three
cleaners would reduce neps by 35%, but reductions in
the numbers of lint cleaners would also likely reduce
’
lint grade [7J. . ’ .
FIGURE 1. Neps in ginned lint measured at seven locations in the
gin process, cottons A and B combined. Seed cotton at the wagon
( I ) and feeder apron (2) locations was roller ginned, while saw ginned
lint was sampled after the gin stand (3), flow-through air lint cleaner
(4), and each of three saw cylinder lint cleaners (5, 6, 7).
.
Discussion and Conclusions
Neps in cotton fiber considerable concern to
cause
persons interested in yarn and fabric quality. Experi-
ments indicate that solving the problem of excessive
neps in cotton will require cooperation between breed-
ers, growers, ginners, and spinners.
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It is not always possible to determine the number
of neps present in the original material, because the
preparation of specimens required in most test methods
inevitably increases the number of neps. Useful com-
parisons on the neppiness are possible, however, pro-
vided the specimens are all prepared in the same way
and under the same conditions.
Nep content in the cottons used in the experiments
was not significantly affected by changing the fiber
moisture content at ginning from 3 to 5% or reducing
the normal ginning rate from 4.1 to 1.8 bales/hour
(underfeeding), but was highly affected by the amount
of gin machinery used. The gin stand and saw cylinder
lint cleaners were the major contributors to the for-
mation of neps. Using three saw cylinder lint cleaners
in the ginning sequence instead of one lint cleaner in-
creased the neps/645 CM2 of web from 24 to 37, a 54%
increase.
Results from the experiments indicate that maturity
and micronaire of the cotton need to be studied further
to determine their relation to neppiness. After three
stages of saw cylinder lint cleaning, 42 neps/645 CM2
were measured on the cotton having a causticaire ma-
turity index of 74% and a micronaire reading of 4.1I
units, compared to 32 neps/645 CM2 on the cotton
having a causticaire maturity index of 78% and a mi-
cronaire reading of 4.6 units.
Promising approaches to reducing neps caused at
the gin, indicated by this and previous research, are to
encourage the harvesting of clean cotton and use min-
imum cleaning at the gin, to gin with only one stage
of saw cylinder lint cleaning, and to develop less ag-
gressive but effective cleaning devices. The last two ap-
proaches would probably result in higher trash contents
and lower ginning rates. Thus, there is a tradeoff be-
tween cleanliness and neps.
Literature Cited
1. American Society for Testing and Materials, Standard
Test Method for Moisture in Cotton by Oven-drying, D
2495, in "Annual Book of ASTM Standards," part 33,
1979, pp. 536-542.
2. American Society for Testing and Materials, Standard
Test Method for Non-lint Content of Cotton, D 2812,
in "Annual Book of ASTM Standards," Part 33, 1979,
pp. 632-639.
3. Chapman, W. E., Jr., and Stedronsky, V. L., Ginning
Acala Cottons in the Southwest, U.S. Dept. Agr. Prod.
Res. Rep. 27, 20 pp, 1959.
4. Griffin, A. C., Jr., and Mangialardi, G. J., Automatic
Control of Seed Cotton Drying at Cotton Gins, A Review
of Research, U.S. Dept. Agr. ARS 42-57, 14 pp, 1961.

5. Griffin, A. C., and McCaskill, O. L., Gin-Stand Research
at Stoneville, Miss.: 1956-66, U.S. Dept. Agr. Tech. Bull.
1407, 24 pp., 1969.
6. Leonard, C. G., Fundamental Mechanism of Nep For-
mation in Cotton, Annual Reports, Southwestern Cotton
10. United States Department of Agriculture, Cotton Testing
Ginning Research Laboratory, U.S. Dept. Agr., 1966-69.
7. Mangialardi, G. J., Jr., Multiple Lint-Cotton Cleaning:
Its Effect on Bale Value, Fiber Quality, and Waste Com-
position, U.S. Dept. Agr. Tech. Bull. 1456, 69 pp., 1972.
8. Shepherd, J. V., Standard Procedures for Foreign Matter
Finishing Cotton-Wool Blends
ROBERT J. HARPER, JR.,
Southern Regional Research Center,
2 New Orleans,
ABSTRACT
This paper covers application of crosslinking agents and polymers to cotton-
the
wool blends. In particular, the influence of a catalyst on performance levels attained
was investigated. Likewise, the role of polymers in improving dimensional stability
and wet wrinkle recovery was elucidated.
The recent interest in natural blend fabrics has led
to questions as to how best to finish cotton-wool blends.
Although the finishing of cotton and wool fabrics has
been extensively reported in the literature, the finishing
of a blend of these two fibers has received only mod-
erate attention. Thus, O’Connell et al. [ 10, 11] studied
the application of dimethyloldihydroxy-ethyleneurea
(DMDHEU) to cotton-wool blend fabrics after stabi-
lizing the wool fibers against felting shrinkage using the
Wurlan process.3 Mehta [8] applied the wet fixation of
resins to cotton-wool fabrics in which the wool com-
ponent was either untreated or treated for shrinkage.
Mehta also used a polyacrylate in conjunction with
’
Current address: Manager Apparel Services, Wool Bureau,
Woodbury, New York.
2 One of the facilities of the Mid South Area, Agricultural Research
Service, U.S. Dept. of Agriculture.
3
Names of companies or commercial products are given solely
for the purpose of providing specific information; their mention does
not imply recommendation or endorsement by the U.S. Department
of Agriculture over others not mentioned.
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761
and Moisture Analytical Tests Used in Cotton Ginning
Research, U.S. Dept. Agr. Handb. 422, pp. 1-4, 1972.
9. Steel, R. G. D., and Torrie, J. H., "Principles and Pro-
cedures of Statistics," McGraw-Hill Book Co., New York.
481 pp., 1960.
Service: Tests Available, Equipment and Techniques, and
Basis for Interpreting Results, Agr. Market. Serv., Cotton
Div., Agr. Handb. 594, pp. 13-19, 1970.
Manuscript received March 7, 1985: accepted July 23. l985.
AND PARVEZ MEHTA
1
Louisiana 70179, U.S.A.
crosslinking agents on woven fabrics [8] and knitted
fabrics [9]. The latter study also included a sodium
bisulfite pretreatment and the preshrinking of the fabric
prior to resin treatment. This report is designed to bring
forth certain unappreciated aspects in the finishing of
cotton-wool blends.
Materials and Methods
The fabrics used were a desized, scoured, and
bleached 244 g/M2 (7.2 oz/sq yd) 60% conon-40% wool
3/2 twill weave fabric and a 45% cotton-55% wool yarn
dyed plain weave suiting fabric weighing 193 g/m~ (5.7
oz/sq yd).
The crosslinking agent was commercially prepared,
unbuffered DMDHEU. The catalysts (zinc nitrate
hexahydrate, magnesium chloride heuahydrate, and
organic acids) were reagent grade materials. The poly-
mers included a polyacrylate with a T. of 253 K
(-20°C), an ethylene-vinyl acetate copolymer with a
Tg of 273 K (O*C), an aqueous polyethylene emulsion,