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    72 views49 pages

    Beadwork 1999 Summer

    Uploaded by

    Cel

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    © All Rights Reserved
    Download as PDF or read online from Scribd
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    of 49
    SPECIAL: NATIVE AMERICAN BEADWORK 18 Beli t Charts Saad daca a3 rooches Acre et Helix Mi BEADWORK -.... BS 48 (On the Cover Iynda Teller’s Beadwork Featunes 16 What a Bash! 40 Time Is of the Essence, But it Takes a While: The Mojave Beading Tradition « Jan Knight 44 Is it Peyote or Beadweaving? * Dovid Dean 48 Tsotawe Billings + Paulo Bilings Peters 52_A Sisterhood, a Livelihood: The Teller Sisters + Jean Campbell 56 Painting with Beads: Bruce Kahle + Jean Campbell 59 A Flower in the Snow: Delores Sloan + Jean Campbell Puc 20 Mosaic Weave « Anne Fletcher 23 Braid Helix: A New Twist on can Old Technique + Juai Wood 26 Hummingbirds and Trumpet Vine Cuff Bracelet * Mary. Tafoya 30 Beaded Baseball Caps Kathie Schroeder 32. Patterns! + lynn Smythe 34 Freeform Brooch * Gwen Blakley Kinsler 38 Easy Echinacea + Jean Campbell How ts do it 20 Mosaic Weave + Anne Fletcher 23. Braid Helix: A New Twist on an Old Technique + Judi Wood Dremel 2 Passing Through 5 Contributors 6 Calendar 8 Letters 10 Stitches 11. Abbreviations 12 Up Close 51. Special Beads Jennifer Nasto 64 Cool Stuff Judith Durant 65. Review 72. Stringing Along Judith Durant 10° Summer 1999 ‘COUCHING Using to tread needles, pass one needle through the fabric fom wrong, Side righ sie, tthe place where the RE frat bea oro go Thread a umber of ‘pads and lay them onto the cloth in your chosen design. With the second reel, come ap dough dhe fabric ‘over the thread berwcon fs Beads, ad back down through the fabri, Repeat this procedure every thre eo four beads tun al he Beads Ba FLAT PEYOTE STITCH This itch cam ave be feed 9 at ‘ped ec” Onecdrop peyote begins by singing an erm mumbo of beds cto tht fev roe. Begin the third row By stringing one brad and passing ehvough the scond-tolast bead of the previous tows, Siting another bead and. pase ‘rough the fourchro-awe bead of the previous rows. Continue adding one esd at adie, passing ver ever over bead ofthe previous row Teothp peyote is worked the same as abor, but with ovo bea ata tine instead of one LADDER STITCH Using ewo needles, one threaded fon each end of the thread, past one needle though, one or more beads from lf wright and pas the other eaDwore celle through the same beads from fight left Continae adding bead by -crosing both needles through one bead at 3 time. Use this tit eo make strings of beads o a the foun for brick sth. ODD-COUNT PEYOTE STITCH Begin by stinging an odd numberof hada crate the at ow rows, Bega thethie ow by ading a bead and pss Be. tow wrt 8G Rapes ron gt ate Row | s‘3 ing chrough the sccond-o as bead jus seg, be in our example. Continue 1 with ever-coune peyote When you reach the end ofthe vo, pass chough beads 1 2, and 3. Piss chrough these fnd-torast bead in what hat now be ome the thd ow Pass Bak ehrough beads 2 and 1 (in thae ore) Pas through the lst bead added in ow 3 (Gone acon sow 4 in eur peje Stare ow 5 2 you began ow 3A the end of row 5. exit fom the Ive Bead ded and loop thread though the outer edge threads (90 Beals) af the previa om: Pass back chrough the ast Fred ada and continue stew the ow ding one bed 3 me TUBULAR PEYOTE STITCH String an even numberof bea 08 ina cee around tube, Make a Fo ation ee by passing though all dhe re) a serung beads ewice more, exiting from the fise bead stung. Swing one bead tnd pas through te thitd ead of he Founiation dele Sting one bead and ps though the fh bead of he four {Eton circle. Continue adding. one bead at ine, skipping over one bead ‘ofthe fis round, unl yo have aed half the suraber of beads of che Best round. Exit fom the St bead of the tevond round, Side the work onto the form Sirng one bead pss through the second bead added inthe second round nd pl head sight. Sring one bead ‘and passthrough the tied bead added inthe second round, Continve around, filing in the “paces” one Bead a 2 times Es from the fe bead de in cach ound. @ This ih direc i ese frm The Beaders Companion, elle om Ieee Pre ablrenations 18 a beg: begin, beginning dec decrease prev: previous PBT: pass back through; pass needle through in the opposite direction PT: passthrough; pass needle chrough in the same direction rep: repeat rid): oundls) AS: right side ther WS: wrong side + Cech gas beads nal the newest colors * Japanese Delicas + Gemstone bad eg + Sterling silver findings » Plas much ‘ more * Catalog $250 or FREE with ‘10 bead sampler °F: ocialy P.O.Box 427 New York, New York 10116-0427 [AT FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY West 27 Steet Between 7 & 8 Avenues, New York City Introducing Beading Software for Peyote - Comanche - Loom Stitch Painter w/Bead Module * Bead Grids « Bead Count + Text Ste cr ann rE lle Design Studlo ome ‘with your favorite artists Please note our new address! (2551 San Ramos Vey Bod #103 ‘Specializing in Guest Instructor Workshops Sen Ramon, CA A583 ple (925) 837-5544 yy Sumer 1999, imately 3° x A" 9/919'9/0:0-0 99:9}0/0;0-9 #0}9}9/019:0/0 }919:010/9. 9-0 Loomwork MOSAIC WEAVE ANNE FLERCHER developed this stitch while using large-holed breads to create a flat design. The unevenness of the finished fabric reminds me of Roman tile mosuics, especially if you add smaller- Sized beads. I revel in the chaotic effect because 1 dont like to cull my beads! ‘You can leave gaps in the fabric co add interest ‘or to incorporate special beads—just start or stop anywhere in your work. You can also increase oF decrease at the end of a row. Add fringe, beads, oF stitchwork along the edge as a nice embelle ishment, This stitch is not easy to undo, but you ‘an cutoff sections and then reinforce the remain« ing beads with a new thread. T have made several bracelets with this fun, secure stitch. A bracelet is a good project to learn ‘on, but you may want to use graph paper to sketch ‘out larger projects such as a necklace, especially if you are adding special beads. Japanese seed beads in several sizes ‘Special beads Size 12° beading needle Nymo “D” ehread Beeswax or thread conditioner Scissors Note: Each bead of your mosaic weave will lie parallel 10 the bead next to it and end-to-end c0 the beads inthe previous row. Row I: Create a ladder of beads by stringing 2 hex ‘or 2 Delica beads and PBT the fist bead co make them parallel. Leave a 6" til 1 weave in later. PT these beads swice more to secure *Suring bead, PT che bead next ro it, and PBT the bead just strung. Rep from * until the row isaslongas you want itt be. Row 2: Scting 2 beads and pass into the frst row s0 that the beads line up end-to-end with the beads of the first row. Weave your chread through the beads of Row 1 and back up ‘through Row 2 to exit from the top of the sec- cond bead (A) (Figures 14). Rep Row 2 until pice is desired length. Figure 1 In working mosaic weave, catch the loop be- tween the beads of the prev row on either side of the added bead. This isa wwo-step process. Siep I: Sing a bead (B) and PT the loop that lies bbeeween and below A and B. Pass up through A (Figure 2) Figure 2 ‘Step 2: Pass dowe through B. PT the loop that lies below to the outside of B. String a bead (C) BEADWORK Sumer 1999 21 (Figure 3). Pass down through B. PT the same loop again, and pass up through C (Figure 4), Rep this two-step sequence across the ro ‘Note: While working this stitch you may find that you sometimes exit in the last bead, and sometimes in the next-to-the-last bead. This will determine which step you begin with after you add your two-bead start for a new 10% Figure 3 Figure 4 22 Summer 1999 SEADWORK 1 began working this stitch with size 8° hex beads, and later added size 8° seed beads to extend my color palette. I suggest learning the stitch on the hex beads; once you are comfortable, incorporate other sizes or try stringing smaller beads together to equal the height of the size 8°. IF you try smaller seed beads, use Japanese beads for their larger hole size. FINISHING. T like to weave the ends in by passing back through all the beads in the firse making half-hitches about three beads apart. @ ‘anne Facer los he Tio, Arizona dere with hor dogs Gory Sabrina, and Rab Boy alle ane. 24 Sommer 1999 The technique involves creating a “net” by looping thread over thread and interspersing with beads rather then netting beads together as in other off-loom techniques. uadruple helix is an African technique pop- ularized by bead artist Virginia Blakelock several years ago. Virginia's helix is made with a visible spine that is either solid or dot- ted, The technique involves creating a “net” by looping thread over thread and interspersing with beads rather then netting beads together as in other of-Loom techniques ‘While attending and teaching at the Bodacious Bead Show in New Jersey in 1999, 1 thought | ‘would experiment with helix colors. By just chang- ing the colorway I realized I could create a braid effect with the weave. This opened a whole win- dow of opportunity, and I came up with some pretty interesting designs “The technique for the braid may be the one you know; bur the application of colors i diferent. In- scead of repeating the pattern of three base color beads and two spine beads, you arrange the colors to create the illusion ofa braid. 20 grams size 11° matte chocolate Japanese seed beads 20 grams size 11° frosted tan Japanese seed beads 20 grams size 11° transparent smoke white lined Japanese seed beads 20 grams size 11° matte cream Japanese seed beads Nymo “D” thread 6mm or 8mm bead for closure Size 10° or 12° beading needle 4" wood dowel (a chopstick or pencil works well, t00) Beeswax or thread conditioner Sharp scissors eADWoRK ‘Thanks go to Valerie Hector, who has given me permission to use her start method for polygon ‘weave for this weave. Her method is easy and pro- vides stability. BRAID HELIX ‘Thread needle using 1% yards of chread and leave a 6" tail. *Make a loop and hold it behind and perpendicular to the dowel. While holding the loop in place, bring the working thread under the dowel and pass the needle through the loop from front to back (Figure 1). Rep from * three more times to resemble buttonhole stitches. To keep cverything in place, tape the tail to the dowel Position loops so that the rail is at the top of the dowel. Red 1: String 3 chocolate and 2 tan beads. Pass the needle between the thread of the final loop and the dowel. Pull the beads tight against the dowel so the beads don't ereep over the loop. Hold these beads in place as you string 3 can and 2 smoke beads. Pass the needle beeween the thread and the dowel again, and pull the beads tight againse the dowel, holding them in place. String 3 smoke and 2 cream beads. Pass the needle berween the thread and the dowel and pull che beads tight against the dowel, holding them in place (Figure 2). String 3 eream and. 2 chocolate beads. Pass the needle between the thread and he dowel. PT the first bead of this round to close the round. Rad 2: String 3 chocolate and 2 tan beads. Pass the needle between (not through) the 2 tan beads of the fist set in Rnd 1. (Note: You are looping thread over thread, not thread through beads) Pull tight so thar the five beads lie directly below the first see of Rd 1. Continue around as you did in Rnd I: String 3 tan and 2 smoke for the second set passing between the 2 smoke in Rnd 1 string 3 smoke and 2 cream for the third set passing berween the 2 cream in Rnd 1; and string 3 cteam and 2 chocolate for the fourth set passing beween the 2 chocolate in Rnd 1 Rep Rnd 2 for the rest ofthe cord. After you've completed 1, the helix should be sturdy enough to remove from the dowel Ifyou keep your tension tight with this weave, you'll end up with a nice, sturdy cord. Don't pierce your thread while working the helix or you'll have 1 like to make 16°18" cords with a closure bead at one end and a right-angle weave loop at the other. This makes a beautiful necklace to wear alone or as a cord that features a special lamp- worked bead, a pendant, or beaded bead. @ Te Woe ican at, bade, and eather wa Tein Wes ‘Palin Beach, Florida, Contac er at fucod 8146 Bucl.om, HA umminebirds & Trumpet Vine Cuff Bracelet MARY J. TAFOYA reshaped 1” x 6" metal bracelet blank Uliasuede, 2" x7 ing or contrast dark color Clear-drying white craft glue Delica beads in the following suggested amounts/colors (stock numbers are includ- ed): 24 cream AB (AQ770); 13 black (DBO10); 70 lined flesh AB (DB067); 98 lined rose pink AB (DB070); 94 op. neon green AB (DB169); 28 silver lined Montana sapphire (DB183); 58 op. sky blue lustre (DB215); 3 lined yellow lustre (DB233); 208 lined green/lime (DB274); 81 lined red/red AB (DB295); 8 semi-matte silver lined dark ruby (DB683); 24 semi-matte si ver lined spring green (DB688); 768 DB798 dyed matte opaque medium blue (DB798) Silamide “A” thread in one color to match the beadwork, another color co match the ultrasuede Size 12° sharp or regular beading needle Beeswax or thread conditioner 1n my neighborhood, the trumpet vines incites it te ops of telephone poles, and tumble over fences. Tiny hummingbirds gather among the leaves and red-orange blossoms, drink- ing in the nectar. This heitloom cuff bracelet pays homage to the abundance of earned the durable finishing technique for the bracelet in a loomwork class with my fist reacher, Theresa Buchan. ve adapted it to peyote stitch using preshaped metal core youre using a flat bracelet blank, file the ‘edges and shape it before attaching the bead- work, Odd-count fat peyote stitch has a tricky “turnaround” on one side of the bead work, but this project will go very quickly once you've practiced abit, Flat metal strips are generally less expen- sive than preshaped bracelet blanks. [often use 22-gauge nickel silver, custom cut at my local jewelers supply store. File the edges well or the sharp burr will eventually cue through the backing. Shape it before attach- ing che beadwork and backing I dont recommend leather because it tends to strech. If you do use it, trim the leather slightly shorter than the metal blank and pull ic tightly as you stitch it, Use a short, sturdy beading needle Note: In the pattern chart to the right, white indicates blue (DB798) background beads. Purple corner beads indicate areas of. decrease; for square-cornered blanks, use blu beads and no decrease in these areas. BRACELET FACING—LEFT SIDE Cut and wax about 2 yards of thread String 1 bead and PT once or twice to create a tension bead. Donit tie a knot. Leave a I-yard ail—you will use this to work the right side. Rows 1-3: Following _ the chare and beg at > the row marked 7) » fist 18 beads. PBT . the sixteenth bead 6 just strung. Sting the nineteenth bead, Figure 1 a + Keep the thread tension tight at the ends ofthe rows. + Rather than zigzagaing across the work to secure the thread, it’ quicker ro pass through the beads in a small circle, * Secure new threads and short ends on ‘the wrong side. Don't worry about trimming closely—the ends wor't show ‘when the bracelet is finished. PBT che fourteenth bead just strung, Continue in this manner t0 end of row (Figure 1). Note chat the first pass of 17 beads becomes 2 rows. The second pass of 9 beads hecomes Row 3, Rows 4 and 5: the twenty. bead. PT the first and second beads, then PBT the weno bend PBT the third, sec- ao onda fistead,——Figue2 PBT the ewenty- sixth bead and string next ewo beads. PBT the twenty-fourth bead. Continue in this, manner co end of row (Figure 2). Keep following pattern co complete Row 5. Note: In odd-count flat peyote stitch, every other row contains an odd number of beads, requiring a more complex thread path to begin the next, even-numbered row. Fol- low these steps to end each odd-numbered row and begin the next row (except Row 3). ‘Row 6: Sting the forty-third bead. PBT the twenty-sitth and ewenty-seventh beads PBI the second bead. PT the twenty- sixth bead. PBT the fory-third bead and scring che forty-fourth. Continue to follow the pattern to com- plete the left side, up to where the decrease begins. FINISHING LEFT SIDE If your blank has square corners, bead cleven solid rows of the background color For a round-cornered blank, beg dec after beading six solid ows of background color (Figure 3). Follow the patten. The lst row Brocelel patien seAowoak Sener 1999 28 sonar 1999 Figure 3 should contain 5 beads. PBT last two rows to re- inforce, then weave a circle to anchor thread, coming our the wrong side. Trim thread BRACELET FACING—RIGHT SIDE Use the original rail thread to push the anchor loop of thread around the fist bead toward the wrong side. If this isn't possible, undo loop. In cither case, PT the first bead toward the center of the work. Follow pattern for the right side of the design, ‘ending threads and beg new ones on wrong sie. FINISHING RIGHT SIDE If your blank has square comers, bead cwelve solid rows of background color. For round- cornered blanks, bead seven solid rows of back- ‘gyound color before beg to dee. Follow the pattern and dec for three more rows ‘The last row should contain 5 beads. PBT the last two rows o reinforce, then weave ina circle to anchor thread, coming ou wrong side; tim, ASSEMBLY Dab a very small amount of glue to the under- side of shaped blank and attach ultrasuede; center first then smooth it out toward the edges, leaving about" extea around all sides. Dab a very small amount of glue on top of the blank, lay beadwork on top, and position it care- fully, leaving even margins around. Allow to dry. Carefully trim the uleasuede, so thae when it’s folded over the blank toward the front, it meets the edges of the beadwork without overlapping. Do not trim ends yet. Cuta V-shaped notch at the comers, almost to the edge of the blank. Fold the shore ends first, then the long sides, and stitch through che ultrasuede along the corner seam several times. ‘Note: If you're using a blank with square cor- ners, adapt the following steps so that each end bead is stitched ro the ultrasuede. ‘Cut 1 yards of thread and knot the end, leav- ing about a 2" tail. Beg about 1” down one long side, with beadwork face up. Pass the needle down through the ultrasuede (which is not folded over to the front at this point). Bring needle back up around outside edge. Tuck thread til beeween the ulerasuede and the blank. Pass needle under a nearby edge thread (be- ‘ween 2 beads), heading away from outside edge. Anchor the thread in place with your thumb while stitching the next few stitches and pull the thread tightly in order to keep ultrasuede snug agains¢ the ‘edge of beadwork (Figure 4). Es Figure 4 Keeping che ultrasuede wrapped around coward front of the bracelet, pass needle down through the ultrasuede 2 bead lengths down from first stitch. Continue in chis manner to end, passing needle under every other edge thread and ceinfo ing the end stitches as you stitch. Pass the needle through several beads before trimming the thread close to the beadwork. ‘Born and raved in Rentcky, Mary J. Toga now call Now Mesice home. She cred ber racer, Marg Fld with the ip for ning along tail head t bead with len. Mary maineine the popular beadwork-relatd web, Aunt Moly? Bead Soret (on fash melee. RESOURCES Beyond Beadery carries preshaped bracelet blanks. For infor ‘maton (00) 848-5548 or wwrhevondbeideycom. Mary J. Tafoya, PO Box 4778, Albuquerque. NM 87196 mitaoya@ dash net or maryafoya@hotmal. com, eas M: husband has always worn baseball caps. He has caps with team insignias Baseball eap and company logos, caps commemorat Size 13° chatlores (single cuts) in appropriate ing events, caps advertising one thing or another. colors With brightly colored embroidery threads going Size “O" Nymo in a neutral color this way and that, some of his caps reminded me f the way beads are arranged when appliquéd! I needed to bead some caps. Size 12° or 13” sharps needle T chose chatlottes (13° single cus) for this project Wide rubber band because their small size allows a good degree of defi Long-nose pliers or hemostat nition and the single cut adds a glittery effect. While Scissors smaller beads would allow even more definition, (Do not use beswax or thread conditioner because they would not provide charlores light reflection. it may mark or stain the cap’ fabric.) My cap beading starced wich a cap from our new local baseball team, the Arizona Diamond: backs. Their colors are great—purple, teal, blac, and copper—and I love the rattlesnake mascot. [ simply picked the appropriately colored beads ani began covering the design on the cap, actually fol lowing the placement and color of the embroidery Some caps have an inside stiffening onto which the design is embroidered, Combined with the hickness of the seams, these areas can be difficult to bead. I found that a 114" length of wide rubber band used as a gripper beeween my fingers works well to either push or pull the needle through. A long-nosed pliers or hemostat is also helpful for those rough spots. These caps are washable. I use one of th orms that T've seen in places like K-Mart, Target, or in mail-order catalogs. Place the cap inside the form and wash it in the dishwasher along with the dishes! Dish- washing soap is designed to cut grease aps come out looking great. I leave them on the form to dry (out of the sun, of course, so they won't fade) While I was madly beading caps, Cubs an- od away and the nounceer Harry Caray pass issued a memorial patch that beaded up nicely This made me realize the patch-beading possibili- » tie Gy BEAD EMBROIDERY Poss the knotted thread through the Sting 6 beads. Slide the beads down the thread next to the surface withthe holes porallelo the fabric. Position the line of beads along the design line. Pass the needle down through the fabric behind the last bead ploced. Pass the needle through the fabric between the third ond fourth beods, being sure to stay onthe design line. Pass the needle through the las three beads in the direction of the design line. Continue working by stinging 6 beods a time ‘and backsiiching through 3, x carefully fling the design, 32 Sommer 1999 LYNN SMYTHE PATTERNS! eADWoRK ‘Humming Bells 4 columns by 88 rows. Peyote or brick sich, ou asked for patterns? We got patterns! Lynn Smythe shares her bright designs that look great using Delicas or any type of size 11° or 15° seed bead. @ Tyan Smet the newer er and webmaster forte Palm Beach Bead Scie bed in rly Beach rid, She teaches les wary of beading tebniguc ad exis er wrk 1 lel bead. quit and ar shan. Phoogaps of er beadwork cam be viued on her website ‘nptimember accompli br. Se can be contacted sa email a dphef@ol com Summer 1999 30, ‘A= Light pink erochet cotton #20 Red pearl cotton #8 Pink crochet cotton #20 1 = 400 size 11° pink seed beads 150 size 15® gold iridescent hex-cuts }00 size 11° shiny red seed beads 200 size 8° matte pink seed beads 200 red Delicas Clear fingernail p 3° x 3" piece of fabric in color complementary to beads and thread 3° x3" piece of batting Pin back Size 10 crochet hook “Big Eye” bead needle Scissors 3 5 ish ot watch-crystal cement The creation of something new is not accom plished by the int lect but by the play instinct acting from inner necestty. The the obj ative mind pla wi loves.” C.G. Jung cx youl of Jngh quae while you ber wl lad you ons pth nthe She pr ck th beads wl peat ou, The pal tun slong that hw ld our xpress Gauge: 6 des = Finished Size: 2" x2 Note: If your bead count doesn't match the in. structions precisely, improvise by adding bead stitches or by breaking beads off the thread with a crimping rool The beods mus be sung inthe reverse crder of use. Apply @ small amount of cleor polish 1o the end ofthe thread 10 make a "selfnesdle, then string beads directly onto the threod. ‘You can vse a bead needle ifthe bead openings CROCHET STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS ABBREVIATIONS, trough eo loops yarn over, draw cre lege enough F you purchase beads on hanks, | fle duck lap ony thread rough emaling bw lope transfer them from hank to thread by tying « floxfont loop only snbock simple sip knot ond sliding beads Kom hank ‘inven 40 working thread. ep EAD HALF DOUBLE thao) CROCHET [bhde) Reena Pete ines Look em ec raya ‘teh, yun vet, ra lop trough Ens | Sa eee’ CHAIN (eh) yam ore, dew thesd through i ‘As Gwen mentions, this project is freeform— thee leaps om hook use inscructions as guidelines, but work “mis- takes" into pattern! Also, do not read anything into the pattern; “rounds” do not always join; turn per instructions, Make a slipknot on the hook. Yarn ‘over, draw through loop of slpknor. Repeat, drawing thicad through last, loop Formed BEAD DoUaLE CROCHET (bde} ‘Yara ovr insert hook inco indicated sstch, yarn over, drave lop through site, ull Bead up else eo sich, stn over, dra thread through eo Teops, yarn over, dew thread through remaining ro loops on hook BEAD CHAIN (beh) Make a slipknot on the hook. Pall bead up close to atch, yarn ovr, dew dhrough loop of slipkaoe. Re- peat, drawing thread chrough last Peel BROOCH FACE Note: With the directions given in this pattern, beads wil always fill to the back of the work. String thread (A) with 75 of bead (1), 60 of bead (2), and 100 of bead (3). Ch 1, bch 3 (counts as de) Rud 1: 3 bd in Fourth ch from hook, ch 1, curn (4 bd) Rnd 2:2 sein each bde, turn (8 5). ‘Rud 3: Beh 2 (ine made), 5 bdepe in first sc, bein next sc, 5 bdepe in next st de in next 2c, 5 bode in nex st, bd in las st, ch 1, eurn (9), FIVE DOUBLE-CROCHET POPCORN STITCH [5 depe] Work $ de in indicted stitch, re ‘move loop from hook insert honk first bdo and back into loop of fh

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