AKSUM INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY

FACULTY OF MECHANICAL AND INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING

DEPARTMENT OF AUTOMOTIVE ENGINEERING

Vehicle Maintenance Meng5274

Chapter -2 Minor and major tune up of gasoline and diesel engines
1. Introduction
1.1. Definition of engine diagnosis, tune-up and performance testing

Engine:- An internal combustion engine is a mechanical machine which is designed to convert the chemical
energy of fuel (gasoline, diesel,...) into heat energy and then to mechanical energy.

Diagnosis: - is a method of finding out the troubles within an engine by:-

 Visual examination,
 The sound produced,
 The smoke of the exhaust and/or
 With the help of instruments

Tune-up:- is the process of making checks and minor adjustments to improve the operation of the engine.
Tune-up is also preventive maintenance. Troubles can be caught early and prevented by
checking out the engine before it actually fails.

Performance Testing: - is a type of test performed on an engine to determine the brake torque, brake power
and the amount of fuel consumed by the engine for a given range of engine speed. The
different values obtained by such a test can then be graphed as shown on the figure.

Fig. Brake horse power, Torque and Specific fuel consumption characteristics of an engine

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Engine diagnosing, tune-up and performance testing is, therefore, the process of finding out the problem
and adjusting or correcting different component parts of an engine as: carburetor, contact breaker point
gap (Dwell Angle), Ignition timing etc., and checking the power output, fuel consumption and emission
characteristics of an engine.

Engine Tune-up:- is one type of Engine servicing. During engine operation internal parts become worn and
others deteriorate. As a result the engine loses its performance. To bring it almost to its original operating
condition servicing is required.

Engine servicing:- is a method of keeping the engine in a condition of safety, reliability, good performance,
low fuel consumption and emission. It also extends the life time of the engine.

Depending on the type of engine troubles, servicing may be classified as engine tune-up and engine
overhauling.

If the types of troubles are mostly related to the engine systems, then the engine exterior (carburetor idle
speed and idle mixture, ignition timing, etc.) should be thoroughly inspected and the defective parts have to
be adjusted or corrected. This type of servicing is called an engine tune-up.

If the types of troubles are mostly related to the engine mechanisms, then the engine interior (worn out
cylinder walls, piston, piston rings; burnt valves, blown head gaskets, defective bearings, etc.) should be
thoroughly inspected and the defective parts have to be repaired or replaced. This type of servicing is
called an engine overhauling.

Engine servicing

Engine diagnosis

Engine tune-up Engine overhauling

Engine reconditioning Engine rebuilding

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 Engine Servicing Flow-Chart

Engine
Servicing

Engine
Diagnosis

Is the
trouble No Engine
external to Overhauling
the
engine?

Yes

Engine
Tune-up

Engine
Performance Testing

Is
No performance
good?

Yes

End

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Tune up procedures
When it comes to the personnel engaged at engine tune-up there are generally two types of servicemen or
technicians:
 Mr. Hit-or-Miss
 Mr. Serviceman

Mr. Hit-or-Miss is a parts exchanger who dives into an engine and starts
replacing parts helter-skelter until he finds the trouble—maybe—after
wasting a lot of the customer’s time and money.

Mr. Serviceman starts out by using his brain. He gets all the
facts and examines them until he has pinpointed the trouble.
Then he checks out his diagnosis by testing it and only then
does he start replacing parts.

Mr. Hit-or-Miss or Mr. Serviceman—

which would you want to become? Both
have the title of Serviceman but don’t be
fooled by that.

Mr. Hit-or-Miss is fast becoming a man of the past. What dealer can afford to keep him around? With the
complex systems of today’s vehicles, diagnosis and testing by Mr. Serviceman is the only way.

Basic steps of engine tune-up

A good program of diagnosis and testing has seven basic steps:

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 1. Know the System
2. Ask the Operator
3. Inspect the Engine
4. Operate the Engine
5. List the Possible Causes
6. Reach a Conclusion
7. Test Your Conclusion

1-Know the System

In other words, “Do your homework.” Study the engine
Technical Manuals. Know how the engine works, how it can
fail, and the three basic needs— fuel-air mixture,
compression, and ignition.

2-Ask the Operator

A good reporter gets the full story from a witness -the
operator.
He can tell you how the engine acted when it started to
fail; what was unusual about it.
What work was the engine doing when the trouble
occurred? Was the trouble erratic or constant?
What did the operator do after the trouble? Did he
attempt to repair it himself?
Ask how the engine is used and when it was serviced.
Many problems can be traced to poor maintenance or
abuse of the engine.
Be tactful but get the full story from the operator.

3-Inspect the Engine

Go over the engine and inspect
Use your eyes, ears, and nose to spot any ‘tips” to the
trouble. 

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4-Operate the Engine
If the engine can be run, start it and warm it up. Then run it through its paces. Don’t completely trust the
operator’s story—check it yourself.
Test the engine with instrument. This is the only way to get a full picture of the engine’s condition.
If instrument is not available, look, smell, and listen for engine problems:

5-List the Possible Causes

What were the signs you discovered while inspecting and
operating the engine?
• Did the engine lack power?
• Any smoke from the crankcase vent?
• Did the engine run too hot or too cold?
• How was the oil pressure?
Which of the signs tell you the most likely cause which is
second, etc.?
Are there any other possibilities? (One failure often leads to
another.)

6- Reach a Conclusion
Look over your list of possible causes and decide which
are most likely and which are easiest to verify.
Use the Trouble Shooting Charts as a guide.
Reach your decision on the leading causes and plan to
check them first—after making the ease checks.

7-Test Your Conclusion

Before you start repairing the system, test your
conclusions to see if they are correct. Many of the
items on your list can be verified without further
testing. Maybe you can isolate the problem to one
system of the engine—lubrication, cooling, etc. But
the location within the system may be harder to find.
This is where testing tools can help.

1.2. Engine testing instruments and procedures

Engine Testing Instruments

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 The most common instruments used for engine diagnosis and tune-up are: -
 Test lump (bulb): - to adjust ignition timing statically.
 Tachometer: - to indicates the engine speed in revolutions per minute (rpm).
 Cylinder compression tester: - to measure the compression pressure.
 Cylinder leakage tester: - to find places of compression pressure leakage.
 Dwell angle tester: - to measure and correct the dwell angle.
 Ignition timing light: - to adjust ignition timing dynamically.
 Oscilloscope:- to examine the condition of the primary and secondary ignition circuits.
 Exhaust-gas analyzer: - to measure the concentration of exhaust gases (CO, HC, …).
 Vacuum gauge: - to check manifold vacuum.
 Engine analyzer: - to measure various engine parameters on a single unit.
Common engine troubles
 Engine does not crank.
 Engine cranks but does not start.
 Engine runs but misses.
 Engine Lacks power, acceleration,…
 Engine consumes more fuel.
 Engine consumes more oil.
 Engine overheats.
 Engine backfires.
 Engine emission high.

Common inspections
Below listed are some of the common inspections that are done on a given engine
 Inspect the starting system
 Inspect the intake system
 Inspect the fuel system
 Inspect the ignition system
 Inspect the lubrication system
 Inspect the cooling system
 Inspect the exhaust system
 Inspect the charging system
 Check cylinder compression
 Check cylinder leakage
 Check engine balance
 Check manifold vacuum
BASIC OPERATING PRINCIPLES OF AN IGNITION SYSTEM

The purpose of the ignition system is to provide the high intensity electrical spark that is used to ignite the
air-fuel mixture in the combustion chamber of the engine. The spark must be supplied at the right time and
it must possess sufficient energy to ignite the mixture under various engine-operating conditions.

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Types of ignition systems
There are a number of different types of ignition systems, but two are in general use in motor vehicles.
These are referred to as:
 Breaker type systems and
 Breaker-less systems.

Conventional or breaker type systems use

mechanically operated breaker contact points
in the distributor to initiate the spark. 

Breaker-less ignition systems do not

have contact points, but use
electrical pulses and electronic
semiconductor devices to perform
the same function.

An ignition system has two circuits namely:

 a primary or low-tension circuit, and
 a secondary, or high-tension circuit.
The primary circuit is responsible for initiating the spark. It includes the battery, ignition switch, ballast
resistor, the primary winding, the contact brakes (CB) points and the capacitor.

The secondary circuit is responsible for producing the high voltage for the spark and directing the voltage to
the appropriate spark plug. The secondary circuit includes the secondary winding, the rotor (distributor),
high-tension cables and spark plugs.

All ignition systems have similar secondary circuits, but the primary circuits for breaker-type ignition and
breaker-less ignition are quite different.

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Contact breaker type ignition system

Operation: The ignition system is actuated by operating the ignition switch and cranking the engine. When
the contact-breaker points are closed current flows from the battery through the ignition switch, the ignition
coil primary winding, to the distributor, via the closed contact-breaker points to earth and back to the
battery. The flow of current through the coil primary winding builds up the required magnetic field around
itself. A rotating cam inside the distributor causes the contact-breaker points to open and close, when the
flow of current in the primary circuit stops and the magnetic field stored in the coil collapses.

The collapsing field cuts across both primary and secondary windings with associated induction and self-
induction effects. The capacitor is connected across the contact-breaker points and its function is to
increase the rate of collapse of the magnetic field and in addition it dissipates the energy surge set up in the
primary circuit by the self-induced voltage across the primary winding. This energy surge would otherwise
cause serious arcing and sparking at the contact-breaker points.

Due to this change in the primary winding of the coil a high tension, in some cases up to 30000 volts, is
inducted in the secondary winding. This very high secondary voltage energy jumps across the rotor gap.
Travels along the high tension sparking plug leads and discharges across the sparking plug gap. A spark
between the electrodes of the sparking plug ignites the compressed mixture of air and fuel to provide the
power stroke. The contact-breaker points close again and the current flows through the primary circuit,
building up a new magnetic field and repeating the cycle.

In the above description of the basic operation of an ignition system there is an underlying assumption that
the cycle of spark generation is repeated for a constant speed of rotation of the distributor camshaft and
hence for constant engine speed. However, in practice, allowance must be made for operation over all
possible engine speeds and for varying loads. This is achieved by utilizing some form of advance and
retard mechanism.

Function of some ignition system components is discussed below.

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Ballast resistor: The ignition system has a resistance or resistor wire known as a ballast resistor fitted
between the ignition switch and the ignition-coil primary terminal. The resistor is used to control or
regulates the flow of current through the ignition coil. The ignition coil is designed to operate on a voltage
lower than battery voltage.

When the ignition switch is turned to crank the engine, the ballast resistor is bypassed either by a circuit
from the ignition switch start terminal or by a line coming from terminal 50 of the starter motor as shown on
the figure. This allows that full cranking voltage is applied to the coil only during starting. This provides a
voltage higher than normal coil- operating voltage for starting purposes. After the engine is started and the
starting switch is released, the ballast resistor is inserted into the primary circuit to operate the coil on the
lower voltage for which it is designed.

The ballast resistor is heat sensitive and its resistance changes during operation. During low-speed
operation, when the primary-circuit current flow is high, the temperature of the ballast resistor rises,
increasing its resistance. This reduces current flow, there by prolonging distributor-contact life. At high-
speed operation, when the primary current flow normally tends to be reduced, the ballast resistance cools
off, thus allowing more current to flow, which assists high-speed coil operation.

Capacitor: As the contact points separate in the distributor, the flow of current from the battery through the
primary winding of the coil is interrupted. Instantly, the magnetic field begins to collapse and this collapse
attempts to re-establish the flow of current. If it were not for the capacitor (condenser), an arc would take
place across the separating contact points, and the points would burn. The capacitor prevents this,
because it momentarily provides a place for the current to flow as the points begin to separate

Dwell angle: The dwell angle, or cam angle, is the angle turned by the cam in the distributor from the time
the points close until they open again. This is shown in Fig.3.5. The points must remain closed for a certain
period to allow the magnetic field of the ignition coil to build up and produce a sufficiently high voltage. The
manufacturer specifies a cam angle, which can be adjusted by adjusting the contact breaker points.

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IGNITION TIMIMG

Ignition timing is the exact time in relation to piston position when a spark is sent to the spark plug to ignite
the air and gas mixture already in the cylinder. This spark occurs the instant the ignition points open most
car use the number 1 cylinder as the reference cylinder if the timing of the number 1 cylinder is correct, the
timing of all other cylinders will be correct because of engine design.

When the spark occurs exactly at top bead center (TDC) it is said to be zero degrees advanced. Ignition
must occur early enough to allow combustion to be complete when the piston is ready to move down ward.
The initial ignition timing for an engine is usually set to allow the spark to begin when the piston is lightly
before TDC. This allows enough time for complete burning of the fuel. But as engine speed increases, the
piston is moving through its strokes faster and the needed burning time of the fuel remains the same. To
compensate for this increased piston speed, ignition must occur earlier. The interruption of the primary
current controls the ignition timing.

Ignition timing specification is usually given as a particular number of degrees before top dead center
(BTDC). This refers to when spark should begin in relating to the position of the crankshaft.

Note: The combustion of the air-fuel charge is not instantaneous but is gradual in ideal operation sequence
of the engine. It is only after a certain time called “Ignition delay” of spark occurrence that the pressure rise
due to combustion takes place.

RETARDED TIMING

 Retarded timing means that a spark occurs after it should. For example, on an engine with static
ignition timing of 100 BTDC, if timing is set at 5 0 BTDC instead of 100 BTDC then the timing is
retarded. Retarded timing would lead to:
 Long cranking before starting
 Poor or reduced performance and gas mileage
 Possible slow, rough idle

ADVANCED TIMING

Advanced timing means that a spark occurs before it should. For example, advanced timing is timing that is
at 160 BTDC instead of 10 BTDC. Advanced timing would result in:
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  Pings on acceleration
 Slow, "jerky " cranking when engine is warm

A timing mark is provided on the vibration damper or crankshaft pulley together with a degree scale. The
timing mark can be located on the pulley with the degree scale on the engine. The degree scale or mark
can be on the crankshaft pulley with a pointer located on the engine. The initial or starting spark timing is
set at the specified number of degrees before TDC by means of the timing mark and scale.

To set the timing when installing a distributor that has not been marked before
removal, the engine should be rotated until the timing marks are in line when No.1
piston is at the end of its compression stroke. The distributor rotor is turned so that
it is in line with the contact for No.1 cylinder and the distributor installed in its
mounting. The distributor rotor should now point towards cylinder number 1 high
tension tower. If the drive gear is fitted to the distributor shaft, allowance must be
made for some rotation of the shaft as the gears are being meshed.

For a distributor with contact breaker points, the points will be just opening at the timing position.

Factors affecting ignition timing

Various factors affecting ignition timing are:-

a) Engine load:- For less load, engine combustion is slower and hence requires more ignition
advance. But with more load on the engine, faster combustion and hence lesser advance is
required.
b) Engine speed:- For high speed, engine needs more time for complete combustion and hence
requires more ignition advance. For low speed, engine needs less time for complete
combustion and hence requires lesser ignition advance.
c) Engine temperature:- Combustion is slower and requires more ignition advance when the
engine is cold. But combustion will be faster requiring lesser ignition advance if the engine is
hot.
d) Cylinder bore:- Faster is the combustion and lesser the ignition advance required for smaller
bore. But the combustion is slow requiring more ignition advance for larger bore.
e) Compression pressure:- combustion will be slower and ignition advance is required for low
compression pressure whereas, for high compression pressure the combustion is faster with
lesser ignition advance required.

Spark-advance Mechanisms
Two types of spark-advance mechanisms are used with breaker-type ignition systems. Centrifugal advance
(related to engine speed) and vacuum advance (related to engine load). These devices vary the spark
timing for different operating conditions as explained below.

Centrifugal advance

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When the engine is idling, the spark is timed to occur just before the piston reaches top dead center (TDC)
on its compression stroke. Advancing the spark before TDC may allow time for combustion to start before
the piston commences on its downward power stroke. At higher engine rpm, with increased piston speeds,
the spark must be advanced further in order to provide the same period of time before the piston reaches
TDC.

For this purpose, a centrifugal advance mechanism is used. It consists of two metal weights that throw out
against spring tension as engine speed increases. This movement transmitted through a lever
arrangement to the breaker cam causes the cam to advance its position in relation to the distributor shaft,
and so the spark occurs earlier. The weights are retained by two springs of different tension, thus giving a
progressive advance action, which is proportional to the distributor shaft speed.

Vacuum advance
Vacuum advance mechanisms are operated by intake-vacuum. Intake- manifold vacuum varies with
engine operating conditions, so the advance provided will be related to these conditions and will vary with
engine load.

As shown on the figure the vacuum advance

mechanism consists of a vacuum diaphragm unit
with one side of the diaphragm connected by a link
to the base plate and the other side connected by a
vacuum line to a part in the carburetor. A spring is
fitted against the vacuum side of the diaphragm.
The base plate, complete with the breaker points,
can be rotated a number of degrees in relation to
the distributor body. Rotating the base plate causes
the contact point to open earlier and so advanced
the spark.

Laboratory
Prior to performing ignition system inspection, one
should thoroughly understand voltage drop that
happens within the ignition circuit. Now exercise
voltage drop values by filling out the following
voltmeter readings. Assume 12 volt battery is used.

Given: diagram of a conventional ignition system

with 6 voltmeters attached

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Wanted:
a) Write the expected voltages V1-V6 under the assumption, that the ignition switch is in "on"
position and the breaker points are closed!

V1 = ………….. V2 = ………….. V3 = …………..

V4 = …………….. V5 = ……………... V6 = ……………..

b) Write the expected voltages V1-V6 under the assumption that the ignition switch is in " on"
position and the breaker points are open!

V1 = ………….. V2 = ………….. V3 = …………..

V4 = …………….. V5 = ……………... V6 = ……………..

c) Write the expected voltages V1-V6 under the assumption that the ignition switch is in "off"
position and the breaker points are closed!

V1 = ………….. V2 = ………….. V3 = …………..

V4 = …………….. V5 = ……………... V6 = ……………..

1. INSPECTION OF BREAKER POINTS

The breaker points continually cutoff the flow of electric current to the ignition coil to produce a high-tension
current in the secondary coil.

With increased mileage, the breaker points will wear and begin to burn due to arcing, making the passage
of electric current to the ignition coil difficult, and causing excessive fuel consumption due to a reduction in

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the high tension generated in the coil. For these reasons, the breaker points must be inspected and
replaced periodically.

Procedure:
 Remove distributor cap and rotor
 Check breaker point faces for burning or damage
 Check the breaker point faces visually for burning, metal build-up, or
pitting due to arcing. If the breaker point faces are extremely rough
replace the points.

2. CHECKING AND ADJUSTING RUBBING BLOCK GAP

(a) Rotate the crankshaft pulley until the rubbing block is
opposite to the flat surface of the cam. IMPORTANT! The
rubbing block should be equidistant between two lobes of
the cam.

(b) Using a thickness gauge with the specified thickness,

check the gap between the rubbing block and the cam.

Measured rubbing block gap is ________mm? Specification is

_____________mm?

IMPORTANT: Never insert the thickness gauge between breaker points. If any oil gets on the breaker point
faces, it could cause early damage to the points from burning.

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ADJUST RUBBING BLOCK GAP, IF NECESSARY
If the measured rubbing block gap in step is not within the specification:
(a) Loosen the two screws of the breaker base plate.
(b) Insert the thickness gauge between the rubbing block and the cam. Insert a screwdriver in the slot of the
breaker base plate and adjust the gap by moving the breaker base plate so the breaker points just start
to open.

(c) Tighten the two screws on the breaker base plate and recheck the rubbing block gap.
Note: apply thin film of high-temperature grease to cam lobe. Too much grease will scatter onto the breaker
points, causing rapid wear. An amount about the size of a match head will suffice.

INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR

(a) Clean the rotor with a rag.
(c) Install the rotor on the distributor shaft.
IMPORTANT! Set the rotor firmly on the shaft
with the rotor terminal toward the notch on the
distributor shaft.

(c)

After installing the rotor, rotate it fully coun-

terclockwise to check that it returns quickly to its
original position when released. If it returns
sluggishly, check the governor advancer.

INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR CAP

(a) Clean the distributor cap and place it on the
distributor body.
IMPORTANT! Align the distributor cap's protruding portion with the notch in the distributor body.

(b) Clamp the distributor cap on both sides. (c)

Connect the high tension cords to the ignition coil and to
each spark plug in the correct firing order.

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3. REPLACEMENT OF BREAKER POINTS
 Remove distributor cap and rotor
 Disconnect breaker point lead wire
o (a) loosen the lock nut on the terminal bolt three to four turns.
o (b) use needle-nose pliers to pull out the breaker point
lead wire from the terminal bolt.
 Remove breaker points
 Remove the two breaker point screws, then remove the breaker
points.

Install new breaker points

Important! Be careful not to get oil or grease on the
contact surface of the new breaker points.
note: apply thin film of high-temperature grease to the
new rubbing block.

(a)
Place the breaker point base plate so the
breaker point mounting screws fit in the
grooves.
(b) using a screwdriver, partially screw in the
breaker point screws.
Important! Place the ground lead wire on the
upper side of the breaker point base plate.

 Connect breaker point lead wire

Connect the breaker point lead wire to the terminal bolt and tighten the lock nut.

 Check and adjust rubbing block gap

 Install distributor rotor and cap
 Check point dwell angle
 Check ignition timing

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Dwell angle test and adjustment
If the dwell angle is too small, the primary current of the ignition coil will decrease and the sparks from the
spark plugs will become weak, causing the engine's output to decrease. If the dwell angle is too large, it
will cause premature wearing of the breaker points. Therefore optimum dwell angle is predetermined for
each engine and hence it is necessary to check first the dwell angle and then the ignition timing.

Important! Adjusting the dwell angle will cause the ignition timing to be changed. Therefore, after adjust -
ing the dwell angle (breaker point rubbing block gap), the ignition timing should be checked.

1) Material: - Dwell angle tester

- Four cylinder Toyota engines
- Repair manual-
- Appropriate hand tools

2) Producer:
a) Connect the dwell angle tester according to the recommendations of vehicle or test equipment
manufacturer
b) Calibrate testing instrument according to manufacturer’s recommendations
c) Remove distributor cap and rotor
d) Crank engine with starter motor speed and write down dwell angle readings
e) Compare the actual dwell angle reading with manufacturer’s specification as written in the workshop
manual and correct dwell if necessary

Standard dwell Actual dwell Correction of dwell:

angle in [ ] or [%]
o
angle in [o] or [%] Yes/No

f) slightly untighten the security screw of the of the contact breaker-

g) Set contact point gap and carefully tighten the security screw
h) Crank engine and check reading
i) Repeat steps starting from d) to h) until the reading shown the lower tolerance limit of the given value
(specification)
j) Assemble the distributor
k) Run engine, accelerate if for a few times and check if dwell angle changes or drops below its lower
tolerance limit
l) if required repeat adjustment procedure
m) Disconnect testing instrument

Note:
- The bigger the contact point gap the smaller the dwell angle
- The smaller the contact point gap  the larger the dwell angle
- The point gap normally increase during as the contact point wears
- Change of dwell angle results in a change of the ignition timing
- Tester cables should not get in to contact with hot engine parts

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Note: Different methods are followed by different engine and test equipment manufacturers. One
difference in the method of testing dwell is shown below. So every time you make such inspections,
make sure to refer to the correct manufacturer manual for correct procedure.

Procedure to check dwell angle by using dwell angle meter

1. Start engine and warm it up until the water temperature gauge indicator rises pass the mid mark.
2. Check dwell angle
(a) Connect the pick-up wire of the dwell angle meter to the distributor breaker point termi nal or ignition
coil negative (-) terminal and the power lead wires to the battery terminals.
(b) Start the engine and check the dwell angle with the engine idling. Dwell angle is usually 52°
for 4-cylinder engine and 41 0 for 6-cylinder engines.
(b) If the measured dwell angle is greater than that specified, decrease the rubbing block gap. If
the angle is smaller than that specified, widen the gap.

Contact Breaker Setting- Gap Adjustment with Feeler gauge

1) Material: - Ignition distributor of multi-cylinder engines

- Thickness or feeler gauge-
- Appropriate hand tools -

2) Procedure:

The following working steps should be

executed in the sequence shown below!

a) Remove the distributor cap and rotor-

b) Disassemble the contact-breaker set-
c) Put parts in a dry and clean place
d) Clean contact-breaker base-plate with clean
piece of cotton
e) Inspect contact points if excessively burned
f) Fit contact-breaker in to the distributor and only slightly pre-tighten the securing screw at this stage-
g) Rotate the engine until the cam opens the points fully (full life position of the cam)
h) Measure the gap between the points with a feeler gauge and adjust or correct gap if necessary-
Check vehicle manufacturer specification for correct contact breaker setting:
Standard Contact- point gap = ………mm
Often, manufacturer recommend to measure the gap between rubbing block and cam shaft when
the points are fully in contact (fully closed position!) in order to avoid oily or dirty contact point
surface and hence a reduced service life of the breaker points!
Standard gap, rubbing block-cam shaft = …………mm
i) Tighten security screw-
j) Rotate engine or distributor drive a few times and recheck gap adjustment
k) Repeat steps from g) to J) if gap adjustment found incorrect-
l) Clean contact point surface
m) Assemble distributor cap and rotor

Ignition Timing Test and Adjustment-With Test Lamp

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Material:- Test lamp bulb, 12v
-Four cylinder Toyota 3 K-engines with repair manual
-Appropriate hand-tools, box-or socket wrench to rotate the crank

Ignition timing check

Procedure
a) Connect the test lamp with one end to terminal number 1 of ignition
coil and put the other one to good ground
b) Switch on the ignition switch without running the engine
c) Turn crankshaft in direction of engine rotation by hand until no-1
cylinder reaches the end of its compression stroke
d) Carefully watch the test bulb and stop crankshaft rotation in the
moment the lamp lights
e) Now check position of the timing marks and adjust if necessary-

Ignition timing adjustment

Procedure:
a) Turn the Crankshaft in its direction of rotation until the timing marks
of No-1 cylinder match in TDC position
b) Now, loosen distributor mounting clamp-
c) Turn distributor in its mounting until the timing lamp bulb just starts to light – ignition switch must be in
its '' on'' position-
d) Tighten distributor mounting clamp-
e) Turn the crankshaft opposite its direction of rotation for about ¼ of one rotation-
F) Again, rotate the crankshaft its direction of rotation until the bulb light appears-Now the timing mark on
pulley or flywheel should align with the stationary timing pointer or timing mark on the engine casing-
g) Repeat steps b) to f) until the position described in f) is attained-
h) Turn ignition switch in its '' off'' position and disconnect the test lamp-
R) Run engine for test-

3) Notice:- -Dwell must be checked and adjusted if required before the timing is set
-Remove distributor cap and put rotor arm towards no.1 cylinder terminal
-Do not rotate crankshaft more than ¼ of a full turn opposite its direction of rotation to
avoid contact opening of adjacent (''wrong'') distributor cam-

4) Shop Safety:
 Beware of high tension of the ignition system. It can be dangerous for your life!
 Only use the correct tools-
 Before starting the engine for test take away all tools from the engine
 Test run the engines only with instructor present-
 Exhaust gases must be lead to the outside-
 Apply hand or parking brake and put gear shift lever in to natural position before starting the
engine when working on vehicles-

Ignition Timing Test and Adjustment-with Timing or Stroboscopic Light

TIMING LIGHTS

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Timing lights are often called stroboscopic lights because they permit the viewing if the moving timing
marks by lighting the marks every time the number 1 cylinder fires. The bright light of the stroboscope is
usually provided by an electrical current through a xenon gas filled tube.
PRETIMING CHECKS

Before checking or adjusting the ignition timing the following items should be done to ensure accurate
timing results.

1. The dwell must be correct

2. The engine should be at normal operating temperature (upper radiator hose hot and
pressurized)
3. The engine should be at the correct timing rpm (check specifications)
4. The vacuum hoses should be removed and the hose plugged from the vacuum advance unit
on the distributor unless otherwise specified.

TIMING LIGHT CONNECTION

1. Connect the timing light battery leads to the vehicle battery the red to the positive (+) terminal and the
black to the negative (-) terminal
2. Connect the timing light high-tension lead the number 1 spark plug cable as follows: Place the
Inductive Pickup around the appropriate spark plug wire. For best results the pickup should be
hooked up with its label side facing toward the spark plug end of the wire, but placed near the
distributor and away from the spark plug. This provides a "cleaner" electrical signal and keeps away
from the hot manifold.

CAUTION: Keep your hands and the timing light leads from the engine fan and belts. The spinning fan and
belts can damage the light or cause serious personal injury.

INITIAL TIMING CHECK AND ADJUSTMENT

1. Start engine and adjust speed to that specified for ignition timing.

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2. With timing light aimed at timing pointer, press trigger and observe position of timing mark when
light flashes. Refer to manufacturer's specifications for correct setting.

NOTE: For the Timing-Advance Tester, be sure that the control knob is
fully counterclockwise in the TIMING position.
Be sure to view the timing mark from a position that allows your eyes to be squarely in line with the
timing mark and measurement scale. An error in timing could result if the mark is viewed from
another angle.
If the actual setting does not correspond with the manufacturer’s specification the ignition timing must be
adjusted.

1) Material:- Timing or stroboscopic light with inductive pickup

- Four cylinder Toyota 3 K-engines
- Repair manual
- Appropriate hand-tools
2) Ignition timing check procedure
a) Connect the stroboscopic timing light:
 Red timing-light lead to positive and black lead to negative battery terminal
 Clamp inductive pickup around the cable of number 1 spark plug
b) Clean timing marks and mark it with white chalkier paint for better visibility
c) Check manufacturers specifications if test is executed :
- With vacuum lines to distributor connected
- Vacuum line………………..
 With engine running at idle speed or starter motor speed
 Ignition timing test with engine running at an ………..speed of…….rpm
d) Start the engine and run it according to the vehicle manufacturer’s specification
e) Point the timing light towards the timing marks and note their position
 Actual ignition timing adjustment………………
f) Compare the actual ignition setting with manufacturer’s specification.
Specification of ignition timing………..
If the actual setting does not correspond with the specification the ignition timing must be adjusted
g) Stop engine

2.1 Ignition timing adjustment procedure

a) Only slightly loosen the distributor clamp screw

b) Run engine at the required test or adjustment speed recommended by the vehicle manufacturer
c) Point timing light at the timing marks and turn the distributor one way or the other-As the distributor
is turned, the timing mark on the pulley will move ahead or back, and so the correct position of the
timing marks can be set.
 The movable mark on the pulley aligns with the stationary mark on the engine!
d) Stop engine and tighten the distributor mounting clamp screw

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 e) Re-check ignition timing if setting has changed when tightening the distributor otherwise repeat
steps from a) to d) again
f) Switch off the engine and disconnect the stroboscopic light

CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE CHECK

1. With engine operating at specified timing speed and distributor vacuum line disconnected, aim
timing light at timing pointer and press trigger while watching position of timing mark.
2. Slowly increase and decrease engine speed from timing speed to about 2000 RPM while watching
position of timing mark. FILL THE FOLLOWING TABLE FOR YOUR OBSERVATION
Engine speed 1000 rpm 2000 rpm 3000 rpm 4000 rpm
Advanced angle

 If the timing mark moves away from and returns to its original position gradually and without
hesitation as speed is increased and decreased, the centrifugal advance mechanism is operating
satisfactorily.
 If the timing mark moves away from its original position rapidly with little change in engine speed, or
moves very little with considerable change in speed, or fails to return to its original position when
speed is decreased, the centrifugal advance mechanism is in need of service.
 Jerky changes may indicate sticking advance weights in the distributor.

VACUUM ADVANCE CHECK

1. With engine speed adjusted to idle at about 1000 rpm and distributor vacuum line connected, aim
timing light at timing pointer and press trigger while observing timing mark.
NOTE: Be aware that some engines equipped with emission control devices may prevent the vacuum
advance mechanism from operating when the transmission is in the neutral position. Refer to
manufacturer's specifications for special instructions.
2. Suddenly open and close the throttle, causing the manifold vacuum to momentarily fall, while
observing the position of the timing mark.
FILL THE FOLLOWING TABLE DURING YOUR OBSERVATION
Vacuum 0 cm hg 10 cm hg 20 cm hg 30 cm hg 40 cm hg
Advanced angle

 If the timing retards when the throttle is opened and advances when the throttle is closed, the
vacuum advance mechanism is operating satisfactorily.
 If the timing mark moves very little or there is no change other than that caused by the centrifugal
advance, operation of the vacuum advance mechanism is in need of service.

SET IGNITION TIMING BY USING A VACUUM GAUGE

Even though not as accurate as a timing light, approximate ignition timing can be set with a vacuum gauge
in the event of a missing timing mark of slipped crankshaft pulley.

N.B This method is to be used only in an emergency and may not be accurate enough for proper exhaust
emission.

To set the timing with a vacuum gauge, connect a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold.

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Adjust the ignition timing by rotating the distributor until the higher vacuum reading is obtained and then
retard the timing 2 in. Hg.

This procedure is most accurate with the vacuum line (s) left connected to the distributor and the engine at
normal operating temperature.

Trouble Shooting Ignition system- "secondary"

How to detect a fault in the secondary circuit

1. Disconnect the high tension cable from terminal 4 of the distributor cap and connect it to terminal 31 (battery
ground or simply point it to the engine). Crank the engine.
2. If there is a spark, reconnect the high tension cable to the distributor cap. Disconnect high tension cable
from spark plug of cylinder No. 1 and ground it. Crank the engine.
3. If there is a spark, repeat step 2 with all other remaining cylinders.
4. If there is spark at all 4 high tension cables, remove spark plugs and check them.
5. If there is no spark at all 4 high tension cables, check rotor, distributor cap and the four high tension cables
to the spark plugs!

6. If there is no spark at terminal 4 (see step 1 above), check the terminal 4 H.T. cable for continuity.

7. If the terminal 4 high tension cable is without fault, and still there is no spark check the primary circuit!

Trouble Shooting Ignition system- "primary"

If there is no spark at terminal 4 of the ignition coil, how do we detect the fault

PRELIMINARY REMARK: For most of the following test descriptions you can use a voltmeter (result either "12V" or
"0V") or a test lamp (result either "light on" or "light off").

1. Check voltage at terminal 15 of the ignition coil against terminal 31. (If the system is equipped with ballast
resistor, check also before and after the resistor! Do not forget to consider the resistors own expected voltage
drops and possible faults!)
 If the ignition is switched on, the expected result is (with voltmeter “battery volts or 12v”/ with test
lamp: “light on”)
 If the ignition is switched off, the expected result is (with voltmeter “zero volts/ with test lamp: “light
off”)

2. Rotate the engine till the contact breaker is fully open (or open it manually by using a screwdriver).

Is the contact breaker gap adequate? Correct it, if required

Switch on the ignition. Check voltage of terminal 1 at the ignition coil against terminal 31.
 The expected result is (with voltmeter “nearly battery volts or 12v”/ with test lamp: “light on”)

3. Measure voltage of terminal 15 against terminal 1 (both at the ignition coil, ignition still on and contact
breaker still open).
 The expected result is (with voltmeter “zero volts/ with test lamp: “light off”)

4. Rotate the engine till the contact breaker is fully closed. Does it properly close?

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 Repeat measurement of terminal 1 at the coil against ground. (Ignition still switched on!)
 The expected result is: (with voltmeter “zero volts/ with test lamp: “light off”)

5. Measure voltage of terminal 15 against terminal 1 (both at the ignition coil, ignition still on and contact
breaker closed).
 The expected result is (with voltmeter “battery volts or 12v”/ with test lamp: “light on”)

6. Measure voltage between both sides directly at the contact breaker (1 and 31). The expected voltage drop at the
contact breaker is (with voltmeter “zero volts/ with test lamp: “light off”)

If results other than those mentioned above are obtained there is problem with the primary circuit and hence
correction is required.

Ignition system Faults, Symptom, Probable cause and Corrective action

For the faults listed below state a possible symptom, probable cause and a corrective action.

System Fault Symptom Probable cause Corrective action

When starting, engine cranks but Contact breaker points dirty or Clean ,reset properly or replace.
Poor and non starting does not appear to fire. incorrectly set.

Engine coughing and running Check plugs, points, faulty Clean and reset replace if
Misfiring rough when accelerating. leads, distributor cap. necessary.

Vehicle is running on a bumpy Loose connection or broken Check for broken wire and
Cutting out road suddenly engine cuts out. wire in low tension circuit. connections.

Engine misfires. Vacuum or mechanical Check operation of advance

Hesitation advance not working. mechanisms.

High pitched tapping noise when Timing too far advanced. Reset ignition timing.
Detonation and pinking vehicle is accelerated.

System Fault Symptom Probable cause Corrective action

More petrol than usual is Ignition timing too far advanced Correct ignition timing.
Excessive fuel consumption required. or retarded.

Engine seems to be running very Ignition timing too far retarded. Correct ignition timing.
Overheating hot.

Engine continues to run when Plug overheating. Fit correct grade of plug.
Running-on switched off.

STARTING SYSTEM

The starting system comprises of the battery, wiring, fuses, starting

(ignition) switch and starting motor. It provides the power for
cranking the engine. The motor receives electrical power from the
battery and converts it into mechanical power, which is transmitted

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to the engine through a drive pinion gear and the flywheel ring gear. The starting switch controls the
operation by making and breaking the circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The battery,
starting motor, starting switch, and the wiring are all designed for the high current flow needed to produce
efficient cranking power. The condition of these components is extremely critical, as even a small amount
of resistance can cause a marked reduction in cranking ability. This indicates the necessity for testing the
various components in the starting system.

The starter is connected in series with the battery. This is known as the high-amperage circuit. The
solenoid is the switch between the battery and the starter, and is activated by a low current carrying circuit
known as the control circuit.

Operation

When the ignition switch is turned to the start (crank) position, voltage is routed through a solenoid or relay
to the starter motor. As the starter motor begins to spin, the drive gear extends and engages the teeth on
the flywheel ring gear to crank the engine. When the engine starts and the key is released, the drive gear
retracts and the starter stops spinning. An overrunning clutch in the starter drive prevents the starter from
being over-revved and being damaged when the engine starts.

Starting system function and inspection

If nothing happens when the ignition switch is turned to the start position, it may mean the starter motor has
failed, or there may be an open in the ignition switch, starter circuit wiring or neutral safety switch on the
transmission linkage. Some vehicles with manual transmissions have a safety switch on the clutch pedal
that prevents the starter from cranking unless the clutch pedal is depressed. Other causes of no cranking
may include a bad solenoid, loose or corroded battery cables or even a low or dead battery.

The first thing that should always be inspected is the battery to make sure it has enough voltage to operate
the starter. A discharged battery or one that is badly sulfated may not be capable of producing enough
voltage or amps to start the engine.

The next check would be the starter motor itself. Using a jumper to bypass the solenoid is a trick that will
show if the starter motor spins or not. If the starter works when bypassing the solenoid, the problem is in
the solenoid or ignition circuit.

If an engine cranks at normal speed (typically 200 to 250 rpm) but refuses to start, it is probably not the
starter - unless the starter motor is pulling so many amps from the battery that there is not enough voltage
left to power the ignition system and fuel injectors.

A good starter will normally draw 130 to 150 amps when cranking a four cylinder engine, 175 when
cranking a V6, and as much as 200 to 225 amps when cranking a large V8. The current draw depends on
the type of starter and the application, so look up the test specs for your vehicle to see if the starter is
drawing too much current.

Another test that can be performed on a starter is a no-load free running test with the starter removed from
the vehicle. With the starter firmly supported in a large bench vice (do NOT clamp too tightly otherwise you
may crush or damage the housing!), use a battery and jumper cables to power the starter. Hook the
negative cable to the starter housing, and the positive cable to the battery positive lead on the starter. Most

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starter motors should spin about 2500 to 3000 rpm. If the starter turns very slowly or not at all, there is a
trouble on the inside.

A bad solenoid can also be a source of starter

problems. The solenoid acts like a relay to
route power directly to the starter from the
battery. It may be mounted on the starter or
located elsewhere in the engine compartment
and is usually connected to the positive
battery cable. Corrosion, poor ground at the
solenoid mount, or poor battery cable
connections will prevent the solenoid from
doing its job. Replacement is necessary if the
solenoid is defective or stuck open or closed.

Starting motor function and inspection:- The

starting motor receives electrical power from
the battery and converts it into mechanical
power which is transmitted to the engine
through a drive pinion gear and the flywheel
ring gear.

Fig. Starting system circuit

STARTER PROBLEMS

Starter problems can be caused by worn brushes (carbon pads inside the motor that supply current to the
rotating armature), by shorts or opens in the armature or field coils or by worn bushings that increase drag
or allow the armature shaft to rub against the pole shoes.

.
Warning: Continuous and prolonged cranking is very hard on a starter motor
because it generates excessive heat. If not allowed to cool down every 30 seconds
or so for at least a couple of minutes, the starter will be damaged by continuous
cranking.

Starter motor Performance Test

ii) No-Load performance test:- Secure the starter in a

vice to prevent an accident.Connect the battery as
shown in the figure.

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ii) Pull-in test:- Connect the magnetic switch to a battery
as shown in the figure.

Fig. Pull-in Test

iii) Hold-in test:-

Disconnect terminal C. The pinion should remain
protruded.

iv) Check the plunger return:- When disconnecting the

switch body, the pinion should return quickly.

Fig Plunger return check

Laboratory

Materials:- Test lamp, Multimeter, Wrenches.

Procedure:-

1) Check the battery voltage (with a Multimeter ). ……………….. Volt. If the battery voltage is within the
specification, perform the next step.

2) Connect the test lamp to terminal 50 and turn the ignition /start switch on the start position.

If the light is ON, then check the condition of the starter motor.
If the light remains OFF, then check wiring, fuse, Ignition/Start switch for continuity.

3) Connect the multimeter to terminal 50 and turn the ignition /start switch on the start position.

If the reading is within specification, then check the condition of the starter motor.
If the reading is not within specification, then check wiring, fuse, Ignition/Start switch for continuity.
4) The figure below shows connection of voltmeter for troubleshooting the starter motor circuit.
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Starting system Faults, Symptom, Probable cause and Corrective action

System Fault Symptom Probable cause Corrective action

Starter turns engine Battery is discharged Recharge battery.

Low cranking very slowly. condition, brushes badly worn Check brushes and wiring.
speed or sticking, loose wire.

Clonking noise when Pinion or ring gear teeth Check condition of teeth
Abnormal noise starter is operated. worn. Excessive end float. and end float movement.

Grating noise just Pinion travel clearance Check condition of the

Incorrect before the engine incorrect. teeth and end bracket.
engagement and starts to turn.
disengagement of
pinion

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 When starter key is Battery discharged or Check condition of battery
Non-operation of turned nothing defective. and solenoid .
the system happens but a Solenoid faulty.
clicking noise can be
heard.

Starter cranks engine Dirty or loose connections. Check connections.

Low torque slowly. One of the field connections Bench test.
output broken.

Starter cranks engine Dirty or loose connections. Check connections.

Low current slowly. Commentator worn or dirty. Bench test.
consumption

Starter cranks engine Short circuit in field winding. Voltage check.

High current slowly. Bench test.
consumption

Heavy clonking noise Mounting bolts loose or one Tighten or replace bolts.
Loose mounting when the engine is sheared or missing.
started.

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31