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Government of TriPura
TriPura Rural Livelihood Mission
State Mission Management Unit
Rural DeveloPment DePartment
Email : trlm. smmu@ gmail.com Phone : 0381 -297 61 46
**{<{.*****{€*

F. No.2 (1)-RD/rRLM (L&M) t20ts f s u+ { '- 4 b Dated: ., A.8.t .P#..12023

To
The Joint Secretary (RL)
DAY-NRLM
Ministry of Rural DeveloPment
7th Floor, NDCC Building-Il
Jai Singh Road
New Delhi-110001

Subject: Submission of t (one) nos scoping study report

j:i on Handloom Value chain
Rural Value Chain ( FDRVC) -reb
Oereiop*.rr, P..p*rd by Foundation for Development of

Respected Sir,
mission
Wittrkind reference to the above subject matter, Tripura Rural Livelihood
handloom value chain
(TRLM),would like to submit t (one) nos scoping study report on
development prepared by Foundation for Development
of Rural Value Chain ( FDRVC) for
kind consideration.
scoping study
In view of the above, you are requested to kindly find the enclosed
report for the handloom value chain development'

with Regards
Yours faithfully'
Enclo-as stated

+ 6) fi
(Prasada Vaddarapu,IFS)
Chief Executive Officer
Tripura Rural Livelihood Mission
Copy to -
1. The Secretary, RD Department, Govt. of Tripura for kind information'
( Ll.
(P rasada
Chief Executive Officer
Tripura Rural Livelihood Mission
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Table of Contents.......

Visit Summary...............

cluster scoping study- Handloom woven product cluster (Tripura)

7. Introduction to the cluster
2. Nature ofCluster
3. Cluster Linkages
4. Tcchnical Supporr.
5. Social and Environmental Challenges

6 Corrrp)enrentari ties .........

7 Critical Gaps .........

8, Recomntendations........... 20
9. ANNEXURE.. 22

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TABTE L: Vlslr sunRnnaxy

Tripura Handl oom cluster scoping visit for the promotion of producer
Agenda
enterprise-led cluster in five blocks of three districts
FDRVC: Saurabh Dey, Abes Naskar
Team Members
TRLM: Tuhin Mitra
Visit Partners District and Block teams of TRLM
1. Saddubia & Langagora, Mohanpur Block, West Tripura
2. Sangkhala & East Simna, Hezamara Block, West Tripura
Locations Visited 3. Padmanagar, Charilam Block, Sepahijala
4. Durga Chowmuhani Block, Dhalai
5. Salema Block, Dhalai
District Village Value Chain
Mohanpur
West Tripura
Hezamara Weaving cluster
Target Value Chain
Durga Chowmuhani + ManipuriCommunity
Dhalai Salema + Tripuritribe
Sepahijala Charilam

Critical Promotion of a Producer Enterprise for Tripura Hand-loom weaving cluster is

Observations recommended

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j. lr-rtroducti*n flm [he c]llse*r
Hand-loom weaving in Tripura is an art practised in almost every households by all the tribal
communities and the culture is timeless. Learning the art ancestrally, the women in Tripura are
still engaging themselves making the ageless motifs and designs in their cultural dresses. The
average workday of weavers in India is 1-22, which is 168 in Tripura, makes it very demanding
state to make a organized centre of weaving.

According to a lot of researchers the word Tripura comes from its etymological origin, it is
compound of two separate words, 'Tui' means water & 'Pra' means near, which establishes a
meaning 'near water'. Now a days, the most observed communities of Tripura as Tripuri &
Manipuri, whereas Riang Jamatia, Noatia, Uchai, Kuki, Halam, Chakma, Mog, Lushai, Munda Kairr,
Orang, Santal, Bhil, Bhutia, Chaimal, Garo, Khasia, Lepcha are also hereditary.

Earlier there were 4 districts in the state, which has broken into eight altogether - West Tripura,
Khowai, Sepahijala, Gomati, South Tripura, Dhalai, Unokoti, North Tripura. West Tripura,
bordering Bangladesh and having the largest market of the state, GolBazar, has mixed culture and
best work opportunity in the state, is the primary focus to make a weaving cluster along with the
neighbouring district Sepahijala. The district neighboring Mizoram and having many tribal
culture, Dholai is another focus to work on weaving,

Products of different tribes and different designs can make an outstanding product portfolio,
however the existing portfolio is majorly filled with apparels and home decor - Pachra, Anchal,
Shawl, Scarf, Gamchha, Aason, Bedcover, Curtain etc.

Traditionally, weaving is learned by the weavers from their ancestors fmother and grand
mother), skill sets are develgped by practise and entire work is done by each and every individual,
which are pre-weaving, weaving and post-weaving. Though processes are labour intensive, and
many a time the neighbors help neighbors to execute the work.
o Pre-weaving : Woven products of Tripura is done by cotton or acrylic and some times usage
metallic yarn and rayon is observed. Usage of silk is limited. The yarn are purchased from Iocal
shops, available clusters and societies. Washing, dyeing and other conventional pre-weaving
activities are not performed.
The wdrp is done by 2 women in a group, in the same family or by immediate neighbors. The
weavers own the traditional warping drurh in every family. It takes almost 2 days to complete
warping. In the Tripuri community, they warp 8-12 meters and in Manipuri community, they
warp for 20-25 meters at a time.
. Weaving : The motifs and the designs of the tribes are unique and traditional to them. Personal
usage and gifting used to be the major source of work. Now a days, along with personal use
and gifting, the work is coming from neighbors and the societies established in the Gram
Panhayats. Marriage ceremonies, festivals, traditional rituals and events grow demands of
woven products which are carried out by the 20-25o/o of the local semi-commercial weavers.

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o The weavers of Tripuri community are majorly dontestic. Main product ol the
conlmunity is Pachra, which is used as their domestic wear and the yearly requirement
is .5-7 in number. In the festivals, rituals, ceremonies and local events they wear Pachra
set, which is basically the pachra and anchal with traditional design. Yearly 4-6 set of
pachra and anchal is also weaved by the semi-commercial weavers of Tripuri
community and sold to the neighbors. Another traditioanl product is Risa, which is also
used in the festrvals and special occasions. Gamcha of different sizes are made for
dilferent purpose.
They use loinloorn to weave and they make small warps of 2 products at a time. The
loinloom is known as 'Tok-borok'by the locals. The loinlooms cost around INR 500-
800 in the local market, generally rnade by the local carpenters.
c The weavers of Manipun community are semi-commercial in nature. They are more
exposed to the city market and weave numerous products.Products for home decor
are also observed in the portfolio of woven products. Pachra, Shawls, Scarfs, Bedcover,
Curtain are the major products. Leisimphee is also a unique and traditional product of
the Manipuri community. Srnall and big size Aasor.r (a square piece of cloth, used to sit
on the floorJ with and without design are woven for different purpose.

They use tradition pit loom, for weaving. The local carpenters are well equipped to
make one and it costs around INR 3000 to the weavers. They use different reeds for
different products, which costs around INR 500 to 550. The creel and other products
are also made by the local carpenters.

o Post-weaving : Making tussles in the both end of products is the rnajor activity done by the
weavers. No packaging practise is observed by the weavers. 11*}tg

Handloom in Tripura is done by women completely. The weaving activity is ancestral. In the
month of cultivation and harvesting, involvement is less as the family responsibilities rises and
during monsoon, it activity is slow. In Manipuri community, weaving activity provides upto 40o/o
of the household income. A few village level agents are also available to aggregate the products
from all weavers and sell it to township or cities of Tripura. ht Tripuri community, weaving
activity provides 20o/o at the optimum level and the percentag-e of semi-commercial weavers are
also less. For both the communities the designs are very unique and consumer demands are high.
With the craft going to national and international markets, consumer demands can also evolve for
a variety ofproducts apart from the tradrtional ones.

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The major cluster project are as follows:

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Pachre
ilesigned )1 t\l )
Sn:all 48"XEirx
Ittaga Shawl
Big
Sn:al1 Jg"x:4*'
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S*dcr:ver
Designed 7If'XS4'f
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Aas*n
Designed 45ttx4l"
Arrchal-Fachr* Parhra 4Jrtx66rr
5Et Anrhal ]f ttxlRr!
Fiain t$itXgSrr
Rica
Oesigned 2BrrX!&ti
Cemchha Large 36ttX'r*8t'
Scar*: Regular 3oiX78rI

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Weaving is practised in majority of the house hold of Tripura, irrespective of communities and
cultures. Considering the nature of weavers in majonty [domestic/semi-
commercial/commercialJ the and discussions with state officials the following clusters are
selected :

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SRLM

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villages. The centers are equipped with 10 frame-looms with Jacquard machine. Additionally, 2 master
weavers from Assam provided training for 3-4 months in the frame loom for use of cotton yarn.

Non- SRLM lnterventions:

Directorate of Handloom, Handicraft & Sericulture: The Directorate of Handloom, Handcraft and
Sericulture has promoted several clusters, across Tripura.

The list of clusters and Samitis promoted in the 3 target districts are as follows:

District Block Name of hand-loom Name of co-operative Number of

Number of
cluster society active
weavers
weavers
Shankhala Handloom Sonaram mahila TSSS Ltd 200 50
Cluster
Hezamara
West Esrai Handloom Under process 30 10
Tripur Cluster
Taranagar Handloom Taranagar TSSS Ltd 727 90
Mohanpur
Cluster
Sutermura Handloom Under process 72 10
Cluster
Lalsinghmura SwamijiTSSS Ltd 119 30
Handloom Cluster
Charilam Handloom Sukanta TSSS Ltd 377 5

Sepahi-
Cluster
jala
Charilam Ujan Pathaliaghat To be formed 30 1_2

Handloom Cluster

Padmabil Handloom Under process 60 14

Cluster
Champahour Tong Baksa Hasta TSSS Ltd 21,5 11
Handloom cluster
Durgachow Malaya Handloom Maitree TSSS Ltd 193 22
muhuni Cluster
Dhalai
Halhali handloom Satadal TSSS Ltd 225 25
Salema
Cluster

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Name Mr. Dipayan Ghosh

Designation SPM

e-mail s'mm. me.trlm@gmail.com

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' Nature of Production: Handloom woven products are made in Tripura in 2 models.
o Household level in small scale

o At PWCS [Samabay Tant Shilp Samities-TSSSJ centers

The PWCS are bringing procuring from the members and sell it through their own channel in
Agartala. The SHG members are the member of cluster.

The local weavers get order from the neighbour for daily usage or for functions. They make
the daily usage products regularly and sell it whenever the order comes. Products are
generally ready-made. In case of occasions or ceremonies they get big orders, they get a part
of the payment in advance and rest of the payment while delivering.

Equipment
Frame looms are available in the societies. The weavers work there in piece wage basis. Some
orders are given to the home based HHs, where the raw materials are also supplied in piece
wage basis,

The weavers of Tripuri community weaves in loin loom. The looms are old and the weavers
never got any training for weaving, The process is slow.
The weavers of Manipuri community weaves in pit looms, available in the houses, Local
carpenters makes & repair the looms in case of requirements, The creel is also made by the
local carpenters. They buy the reed form the cluster ifavailable. Else they buy from Agartala
market whenever they can visit fmay be once or twice a year).
Financing
During festive seasons, the neighbors place order to the weavers and 50% advance payment
of raw material are done. During marriage ceremony the advance payments are done as the
orders are big. For rest ofthe year the weavers keep all the Woven products in there stock and
sells it as they get the orders. There may not be any waiting time for the buyers. Payments are
made instantly, The village level entrepreneurs also do not bring orders, rather collect the
finished product and sell it to retailers in the township or city based retailers.

The cluster coverage involved villages of 5 blocks of 3 districts. However the block team has
B
identified 250-300 members in these blocks, where there may be a group of HHs who are
outsidethe SHG fold, who would be covered under the project.
Therefore, the total number of artisans to covered under the proposed cluster is 250-300.
o Source of Work: The weavers gets order from the neighbors. Occasionally orders come for
governmental programs.

In recent years, PWSCs brings order and in a few villages VLAs get some order.

The society brings order or both home decor and apparels. Such as Pachra, Risa, Anchal, Shawl,
Scarf, Bedcover, Curtain etc. Thse generally gets distributed among the weavers who work in
piece wage basis, but some weavers who works individually also gets the order in small scale.

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The VLAs collect ready made products from the HHs. Products like Pachra set, scarf,, shawl,
gamocha, bedcover etc are majorly collected by them.

Weavers of Tripuri community weaves Pachra set, which are mainly 2 piece of cloth, Anchal
and Pachra; 3 types of Gamcha, small, medium ad big; & Risa. The orders majorly come from
the neighbors. During marriage ceremony bigger orders come.

Weavers of Manpuri community are semi-commercial in nature. Majority of the sales happen
through neighbors. The product diversification of Manipuri community bigger. Pachra, Shawl,
Leisimphee, Gamochha, Aason are among the apparels and bed cover, curtain etc are among
the home decor.

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a Skill Level Classification:, Based on preliminary understanding, weavers of Manipuri

community are exposed to more training programs than the weavers of Tripuri community,
Though both the types of weavers have learnt the art from their mother or grand mother and
the motifs or designs of both the communities are unique and have demands among
themselves
o Production volume : The production volume varies across all societies, which is rnair-rly
driven by the orders in hand and the size ofoperations.
The weavers o Manipuri community generally weaves 10-15 designed Pachras in a rnonth, 20-
25 gamchhas in a month at one go. They weave for 7-B months a year.

The weavers of Tripuri community weaves 4-6 set of Pachra set with design in a year. They
weave for 6-7 months a year.
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It is possible to scale up the revenue of cluster by providing regular work throughout the months
for the weavers, except for the periods when production cannot happen due to more involvement
in agriculture & weather conditions such as monsoon season. By sourcing more work, more
women can be effectively engaged into the production process as well as engagement will be for
increased hours. Subsequently, upskilling of women can also be taken up.

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5r-"pahi|4t* t ltlEfru*ffl: Tripu ri:{.*rnr*r"r'ritg ii;,1.*.*

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The weavers who are not under the PWCS coverage will be considered, habit of weaving for 4 to
6 hours a day, to be considered. The SRLM has identified such weavers across the districts.

tr] What is t?:* sve J-ali*i rlt*xi?1lttlL, *11.1 nlirli::u:r] Lt..af* in {-}-:* r:hisl*r'i i1,{*::tir:::
lh* r,v;lg*r ssrtp;tl"at*iy' f*:" r.].1{:lin ;}:l{, w*w}{:r1 {,,rre*;sii*l: lrri"lcj'tlrr:l' th* 1,y;}g*
1,y\*.17 {.i t}t1':r:! i s rl: <: c} L} : }
3r * r y{r fi }"i}'_:

The society paid wages on per piece basis.

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Regular JZ"xl5tt {15O.O0
Parhra
Designed ]2"xy'5" t:5o.ao
Naga Shawl
5nratrl ,4.S,i,,,q Silt " ._- 3ls;9q
Big 48t'XE$'n't', ta:5"* ' l

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d6 irnit*. Iamchha Meriiun'r Jgo'xlz" (5o.oa
Big 39"XroB" t75.oo
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Eegu[ar I:o'XB4t'
,. $edc*ver .rtt,o*.lo ,o

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*esfgred, 7a!!X84 t:cc-,*n l

furtain Regular j6f'XB4r' ttro.i:*

Flain -*"xg&il
RiSn
Llesigned :s'*X$8" (5an"na
Carnchha Large 3SttX"r*Et' t5+.co
5c*rf ftegUIaf 3onlXpSll t'r5o.orr

These earnings are approximate figures calculated based on the discussions.

Average wage for the weaver of Manipuri community is roughly estimated to be INR 645 per piece
of designed Pachra and each Pachra can completed in 5 days of work per day. Wages wor[ 4 hours
increase with the increase in complexity of the design and size. Estimated annual earning of a
weaver is about INR. 40,000 - 60,000.

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Average wage for the weaver of Tripuri community is roughly estimated to be INR 1840 per set
of designed Pachra & Anchal and each set can completed in 20 days of work, 3 hours work per
day. Wages increase with the increase in complexity of the design and size. Estimated annual
earning of a weaver is about INR. 20,000 -25,000.

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Price build-up for 1 Manipuri Pachra

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Price build-up for l Tripuri Pachra Set

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Traditionally the looms are available in all the HHs in Tripura. West Tripura, Dhalai & Sepahijala
are the 3 intensive districts where semi-commercial weavers are available in higher numbers.
The block team has identified 250-300 members in these blocks, where there may be a group of
HHs who are outside the SHG fold, who would be covered under the project.

Therefore. the total number of artisans to covered under the proposed cluster is 250 -
300.

*] is Llt* *falsI*n inf*r'y*r'!ticln

<:p:*r;atiq:ffiilX l-2-at:c)ffit-hs;1 y#;ir? Il'u:ar>, h*l,v l:r*n5,
js
rxl*ffiths t):e clust*r imfler-a'entir:rl *:3:*e-ati*n;r],] M*nflis]ffi t]:e *:*s:f,F:s {m;xr:":es}

Jan Feb /Vlar Apr I\4ay Jun Jul Aug sep Oct Nov Dec

The quantum of work varies across the year, as illustrated below:

a The most production is done between March till May, due to favorable
weather conditions which ensure higher productivity and moreover the weavers can
work for higher number of days.
a The onset of monsoons and harvesting period Iargely affects the
production during June-July period

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. Maderate Production: The production is done in the period between Oct-Nov, however
the festive season restricts the number of days the artisans are available for work. Same
goes in Jan-Feb.

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Fl"fldLlijri"c{rt:lpafiy, ilG.Jtrl*i';alivr:, elr.l? ll si:, 131*nlir;n T.1",* tl*T.;;-ils r:fl lh*
jr:ntii.r-tlilti:fs]
In all the proposed Iocations the department has established the Weavers' co-operative societies,
how so ever, due to limited scale of operations in the PWCS a lot of weavers have not been covered
under this. So te proposed intervention cluster would comprise these home-based weavers out of
which no institutional structure has been developed so far,

;) \rfh*t p*r{*ni.}il* *f in*r:ri:* ii: il':* i:';use i:*l*'l i::r*;rr,* l:*y;/;i,:,t {:t:{"{}*i ir*r*
'iL tr *:,,vtlrt -)

Fra#el*eln: $tlK C*mmercial 5s-6ofl

Manipu+'i- /cS
Mr:hanpur,
1 Throw'Shuttle: qoY Semi-Comrnerriai r5-Jo.Y
!Y*st Tripura
Tripuri- 34,$ Loin L:onrs Largely domestic

Helamara, Wesl
f, Tripilri- looY" Loin looms Domesti{ 1-1oX
Tripura
{harilam,
l Sephijale
Tripu*- looB Loi* ii:orns D*rnqsti( 11-r.og

l\4anipuri- 7o.ru Throw SNruttle Seml-fommercial 4o-5r]ts

Durgachowrnuni,
4
Dhalai
TriFilri- l*tr L*in looms Dr-:me:tir r5-?oru

Manipuri- 7oS Throw Shuttle Senli Cornm*rcial lo-4{],9

) Salema, Dhalai
f;^r .r+ i -fr
Li:in looms Dolnestii: iu i)i

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3" illusten l,inkages

a] &''tr*n[i*t? ctirr*r?t ]in]<ag*s in Che clmst*r {f*r raiu mncer.fat, *Lh*r il:g:nts,
seltir:g flmislted g**c{sJ
a Raw Material: The weavers gets very limited amount of raw materials to weave. Majority
of the weaves re done by Acrylic. Cotton is also available, but not used much for high cost
and non availability. Rayon andZariyarn are used for designing.

Raw materials and their prices are as given below in the Agartala, Golbazar market, this
is the wholesale market of Tripura:

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;{.-'.!&J t*r*.B,

plY--.,,- S#h.c-*..rr

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tt,g5o-**
Pfiilil qSAa$G

,$r+n{IiP;*,r ft.$,rxc's
{:.3*$i'n$
yarn (e
fr1ao=n

tso*"oc
Another source of raw material is N HDC. Cost of material is atleast 1 0%o less in NHDC. The
system of purchasing yarn from NHDC is, the society or cluster of the individuals should
have Weaver's card: There are a lower cap of ordering the yarn [90 kg for unique quality
and color, 10 kg for silk). Concerns of the yarn NHDC are, a) dyeing quality is poor, bJ
waiting time is high, c) NHDC can fulfill 10-12o/o demand of the weavers. The cashback are
very irregular.
Sourcing of silk is limited due to training and exposure to silk products. Dept of sericulture
supplies silk in nominal rate but HHs rarely purchase it.

ffi
:; ., - a;
Hatn$ow lex[tt€ Wherle**ner t**ltr*r*r, LOY{0f], A{rYH(+
$1a,{nileri Agrrtala Ha.y.c*;Ja::i rr.,r

Cautam llehnath Whrilesaler &, {ulbaxar, {*tt*n, Acrflir,

${*tailer &g;:rtrlln llayon, fmri yarr"r

a Looms: Looms are majorly made locally.

The weavers of Tripuri community use loinloom. It costs 800 to 1000 rupees in Agartala.
The Iocal carpenters also can make these types of looms.

13 llrgr:
 s
a.t

The weavers of Manipuri community use throw-shuttle looms. It costs 2000-3000 rupees
and made by local carpenters. Generally they have a loom ancestrally and they repair the
loom with the help of the carpenter.
The creel, warping drums are also made by the carpenters. The creel costs 2000-2500
rupees, and the warping drum costs 1000 rupees.

Reeds of different counts are available in societies or in the market at a rate of 500 to 600
rupees

a Selling of Finished goods: As mentioned earlier woven products are sold to the
neighbors, societies and rarely t the government programs, The weavers groups from the
cluster also participate in local melas.

VLEs sell to city-based retailers from Agartala, Ganganagar, Ambasa etc.

Regul*r A(lyllc, Biysn ]1nH?50 l?5o.oa

F*ehra
s*rigned Acrvli{ft stt*n, Ravon, Zarl 3r"x750 ?r,6or"aa
$xrall Arrylic 484x8rn fgI{.6$
itage Sh*wl
Blc A(ryli( ,n8,'Xggo tgoo.oa
5rcal1 Arrylfc$ottan 39"x5{o fi5u.ao
{irm{hha 84*dium A{rylkl{stton lg*x7;o f€d"s$
,,,1hr*&i1$ ,

*itrtd{ .
6ig Adrlli{E*ttdn 3*"x1fl8'' |r5o.oo
legul*r &tton TtnxB{" tSoo.oo
Badc0vEr
{rsrifnBd {otlon 71"x8{ft ?r15oo"ao
turtnin *egrlar {ottsl! i{'X8+" f,*os.+o
$egn1*r Acrylk/C*tton ?rao.oo
Asan {*:}ts}
furlgned Affylkr (*tt$n 45"x45n *r,5oo,*o
t*s}ra Aerylicftetton, Rayony ?ari 43"X66o ?3,son.ao
,qnchrl.Pachra S*t An<l'r*1 tu#irl(otton, ftiyon, Iari )x*:qst {r,go*.oc
FlElrt AtrylitJ Eay$ri tSsxg8o t5oa,ro
'Rlss
$6!lgfted *{r}llric{,ttsfi , fi ayoa, lar} 18{Xg*" ttrcoo.oo
(rm.hhe lergs &erylic/{olton 36"xro8'' l5oo,to

j flir*s ii:r: ;lusf*r

ilr*E{:::li-v supi'i3," t.r: i*::;tiL.;ti*tl;tl ,,?tt:t,
?xl:
l-. Ys,;yr::,;::.'! i\1t.:tsl.tt,its'th*
;:ri:,r r]] rs l: f' i il :ililuti *::;+ l hil r* :": a n{i l.* i'rft s lrf i:"*rt *
No. The most of the weavers of the cluster are working lor the sales production, the sales mostly
colnprise of products for neighbouring HHs and sorne portion of the products channelized to the
VLA, so there are no institutional buyer to the cluster.

r] 5r:r:p* fi-:r" fr,tlr:rr rylilr"?{rI f*:"t?rr: cire:;1.r:r {i'{.}r ra.."$ \71;}lt:'i}'*1, {lLh#r inp-l.o:, siliiitrg
f";ilr I:<.iir-r.,rlri
o Raw Materials: To ensure cluster growth and sustainabilrty, the supply of the raw materials -
cotton (with several counts and colors), acrylic [with several counts and colors), Silk [of
different typesJ, lurex, rayon, zarif metallic yarn fseveral colors] needs to be streamlined, as
the cluster are largely dependent on a limited supplier in local market in the township or city
based retailers and wholesalers in Agartala. Provision for centralized procurement &
distribution of yarn can be explored- wl,ich would ensllre lowering of input cost due to bulk
discounting, minimizrng Iogistical challenges, and eliminating efficiencies due to higher lead-
time involved in procunng from distant suppliers.
The potential for production of home d6cor and apparels can be explored for creating new
functional/utility and gift items can be explored. Therc is an imminent need for establishing a

14 lPagr
 \U:'
c

sound regional supply chain mechanism that is adequate to support a market-led product
diversification and business expansion.
a Iooms.'The condition of the looms are poor often, and the additional equipment for pre loom
and post loom are not always available with the weavers. Standardization of all the loin looms,
by providing the equipment in credit by the PE will be provisioned. For the pit looms, similar
type of intervention can be planned. Standardization of various reeds for various products,
availability of creel and warping drum, will be arranged by for faster and better-quality work

a Selling of Finished Goods: Currently the weavers from Bagh largely dependent on the local
orders for being able to effectively engaged in the weaving activity, as this control the
production systems as well the market linkages. Moreover, these units largely producer
generic woven products like regular design Pachra, Gamchha and saris cater to the Iocals. Only
the units owned by societies engaged some form of product & design development in order to
supply to PWCs.

Therefore, it would be imperative for the producer institutions to be able to explore other
segments of market that will give them better negotiation ability, higher price realization for
value-added products and livelihood opportunities. Some of the potential marketing channEls
that the cluster with the help of the producer institutions can link-up with are as follows:
. Large-format Retailers: Fablndia, AllO, Taneira, HomeCenter, Westside, Mother Earth,
Good Earth are such large retailers having nationwide stores selling most of the product
categories, sourced from various craft producer groups, entrepreneurs and traders
involved in the handloom product trade.
r Exporters/Buying Houses: These are businesses that manufacture and export
handloom woven products in large quantities, having in-house production system such as
assembly, finishing quality control, labeling, and packaging.

o Institutional Buyers: These are the various non-profitable organizations and

institutions involved in the sector selling through their retail outlets, e-marketing and
various other networks, sourcing from the artisans associated with them. Alternate trade
organizations like Fair Trade Forum India IFTFI) have also opened up huge market
opportunities in the sector.
. Corporate Stationery/Gifting: Large corporate/ businesses can be targeted for
supplying thenr with conference bags, home decor and other similar requirements using
handloom prodncts.

J'] \4,r1:;,rl is tlrrr s{.r{}i}* I'q;r'r-t*r,r:}r,il}iJ;l.i **l.t i3i1{J il!li{ll.r* ilr'{}{il-t{:x.s?

The use of handloom woven product is largely limited to shawls, scarfs, gamchhas, and a minor
segment in home products such as bedsheets, curtains.

However, there is an immense scope for diversifying the product mix and enhancing the product
quality. Following product categories can be targeted for creating market-oriented products:

15 lir:rgt
 a(
0t'

Product Segment Praduct ldea Market Vertlcal

faslrinn ',f'66611Y1919P '

Acr*ssr:lries D+mestic Retail

,,, fixhihiticrrs','
{CI. i#..$':S.

[|l$1 i rE tffi

',: f*f$flil]€t-Ce .

D*r**stiq f{e.tai}

In addition to product-range diversification, focus can also be provided to introduction of locally

produced silk yarn for production of high-value added products for premium markets.

4" "il*chmic*H Smg:p*nt

a) F,{*nf,{*n pr*s*rac* $f scrpport instituti*ns / firitts, s*rvifi* pr*vi{t*}-s, elust*r

;)sset$ $ilth ;ls tecltr:icaX i*stiiln{.es, ilr&i}}ir}S c*rct.e}"s} ilt:i1:tr"}1*n f-aci}i{"y il*t:ilr'*s,
r*EV ffix#tfria? B:*n]<s #tr.

. WSC: WSC fWeavers Service Centre) have a couple of training programs for weavers, for
a month long and for a quarter long. They have other training programs pertaining to
dyeing and design development.

. Directorate of Handloom, Handicraft & Sericulture: The department has established

societies and clusters in the blocks, where there are arrangement of getting loan for raw
materials. Mulberry silk is available in nominal price for the department and there are
abundance of silk till date.

5. 5*rial and H*vjrmns??Bxltal C?::ill*ng*s

-";
;.1 !\i;,rTti;li,
" .,rrrr Lr*ltl: r"iEkq ll:;,:l i..ir*-, i:llt:i.*r n:*ft\lj*{t {i}{:t:

No risk related to health have been observed. However, if the weavers work for 7-B hours a day,
issues can occllr in eyes and back.

t:i h i,rfllic,rr .ril. H*irrlilr s. i :r-3ql is' ,, $ r,1 l;r. r'ltti;tr,t"

Handloom weaving activity in Tripura is primarily women dominated, therefore no such issues
exist.

..r] Sl*|t. inii-;,ls!-rr"rclr-rr=ai ;:h-rlt*;:;*$ p*t"l;lirrsztE Nq: 1ii;.iL*r, *l*rLri*ii_v,

lr*::s;:r::'l*li*;:, rft " irr i1:r , [rrtr*r'
NA

16 | i' :'i i; r:
 N
N

d] XtJhaf, ar* ti:e risi<s fl'c*sfl*laler, rnaa"k*{, }"at&,-tr]a{-eriai, faxali*n, availat:{lity cf

{rr*r:r*r *lr.}1 th;r{ th* r:}usl'*r i';ar*s'j
The following risks have been identified that the cluster faces

Financial Risks:
a Market Risk Covid-19 has exposed an inherent market risk in current scenario i.e.
dependence on fairs and exhibitions for sales. Therefore, there is a need to add new
channels, like traditional distribution network to create regular demand and also e-
commerce to catch up with changing customer shopping behaviour.

Raw Material Price Risk: The raw material is available in limited quantity & variety from
local markets. They are not able to create large stock to make use of lower market prices.
The prices of acrylic & cotton is atleast 20-25o/o high in the local markets than the NHDC
rates or Golbazar market. These risks can be managed by creating a raw material bank
within the cluster.

' Unavailability of Funds: As observed the artisans do not have good money to buy riw
materials to weave for more than 1 month. In a lot of blocks the weavers work in piece
wage basis. Moreover these artisans largely belong to economically marginalized
communities ftribal communities), there is a natural credit risk involved. For establishing
a producer-owned business in the cluster, substantial working capital support at
favourable terms would be required.
Operational Risk;
o Non-Availability of Weavers: The HHs engaged in the weaving activity are largely
dependent on other income generating activities like agriculture, which may impact their
availability in certain months due to their extended involvement in sowing and harvesting
activities.
a
Quality Risk: The ability of the cluster to adhere to the quality level committed to the
buyers is limited. The uncertainty may arise from the raw material provided, ability of
women to adhere to design prescribed, effectiveness of quality control processes. It may
result in returns or rejects. To mitigate the risk, a strong quality control process will be
needed.

a Innovation Risk To stay competitive, the cluster will have to bring new designs and
products regularly. In a dynamic and competitive environmen! any market gained may
be lost to any other innovative market player. The risk can be mitigated by providing
external support for design innovations as well as building capacity within cluster to
innovate. t

Stratesic Risk:
o Customer Risk: High cost of hand made product restricts the customer base to expand in
the rural and townships. It can affect demand for handmade products which are priced at
premium. Therefore, there will be an inherent risk of changing consunier interest towards
clusters products.
a Opportunity Risk Opportunity risk occurs whenever there's a possibility that a better
opportunity may become available after having committed to an irreversible decision. In

lTlPage
 t
\a
N

case of cluster, choice of product categories will involve considerable investment in

training, infra set up etc. Therefore, to minimize opportunity risk, it will have to choose
its product line which is most profitable and keep looking for new opportunities.
a Competitor Risk: Competitive risk is the chance that competitive forces will prevent you
from achieving a goal. There are many competitive clusters and private players in market.
The cluster can lose out to its competitors or become a me-too manufacturer if it is not
able to create a unique market positioning. Therefore, creating a brand for cluster
products will be crucial part for sustaining it in long term.

6" {i*lrup} s rn * *t;lri tiers

a] l,xplr:l"r pc:l*Ilt'tillsyJrsl"gi*sr r.vill: {lflh*r #r:ii*lr:;:rrt*nt. *ll!:r"{.r ir:*l*rtt,*f *i-}*{it.

il rilgi'ilu;s, ilS ll il illi:rls, F {'i}:fi 1ilr{t{ll{ }f i l:li*sNr: : * n t$ *i L"
It is envisaged that appropriate partnerships and collaborations can be explored to create
potential synergies for development of the handloom weaving cluster, some of which can be:
. CSR partnerships: The corporate of public and private sector can support the proposed
initiatives by way of providing additional financral support and professional operations &
management to the PEs as part of their CSR,
o Private sector collaboration with leading hand-crafted product retailers such as
Taniera, Swadeshi, Fabindia, etc. and specialized marketing agencies like Rangsutra, etc.
o Institutional Partnerships fbr technological and technical support on design & product
development, up-skilling and production system upgradations with organizations such as
NIFT, IICD, NID, IIP, IIHT, CtC.

l:] $,isl {}lh*}: }}ri}rlr;l}}r.$ i}i}d f}arL}l{:r$ fhi:l Ir,,:rl ill;trJi.:d fihis !r:tr:l't',jt]li{}r: fgilvl..
p r*{iiritr?rs, hi l;tk:r*1, :::rr lli i n ler';li s}

Central: NABARD, NHDC, WSC, NIFT

State: Depar"tment of Handloorn, Handicraft & Sericulture, Directorate of Industries & Cotnrnerce.

18 lt;gr,,
 s4.
N

7" f,-"ritieaI fiaps

The key issues as observed in the current varue chain are as follows

llandlnola tfi
PRS{.E55E5 ilFtlt pp4lt Prsdtrctfun &{S$ngdt}s* &a ,4tor l
ACTSR! i$ari{sop Wmwr* lryt{l,tri f+rleggkst&it Hff{SrJlscet ma*at

v( llsAp

il*+r ruaifu&l*t5ci fiertrwted skitl fuvrh o{ Nc *ccre t&adr4uat* ffnfuhiry &

qualitf *v*rl*ty
Uml&d tuellitks,for
wdm{n {}+ivs{r *ld ts rel$* ed$ttisfi bi{rBitru*$r* fur .ur.*t#ue*efu:$$ ni
${ i*!$ l.dfit*r$Bl
prF{dorr} pro{t{s}t[
n*ture of runrnt w*rk it{tslitIs
::::r : sd=!gi* ,:: , ::

€Ar5 :Fcoeri$w.si tif6h dgp*n**nr* c* P$rhadu

5fu&!q{rr' lo*lr ufad*quat* tlt p.rd*lor &r qtellty cha* &
produ:{lorr wrxtrpec* <o*trrl rl produdl*n ltstt +:rlth aqfig$l* dir*et rrm* ta
{hffilq}sp} Ittrhrtroee m#*Gts

taxksf6kc{t
t*lai*t'r Uruitd rcd* *f prod*ttiw du*to &agru{fitrd Fro$lrtisr b}se l&lltrrt:pradtect pcrtfollr,& ddgn
JuEflli€$i.:l ',:,, ltrt*rrc*tfffi

Weak institutional framework: As observed in the cluster, the existing producer

institutions established in the cluster [societies & clusters formed department of
Handloom, Handcraft & Sericulture), which were done for the growth of the weavers in
the cluster, have not been able to function effectively towards moving-up the Weavers
along the value chain and the primary benefits from these institutions are being retained
by the local businesses. The weavers still continue to be engaged on small value work,
with marginal profits.
High fragmented production base: As observed in the cluster, there are very few
retailers, which largely impacts the ease of production, supply chain coordination and
costs. This creates an unviable situation for large buyers to source their products from
this cluster, as well'as limiting the cluster competitiveness. Raw material procurement,
production and marketing costs can be optimized if ihere can be better coordination
among the various groups.

a Limited market linkages: Weavers are dependent on locals & neighbors for orders. VLAs
are supplying to city-based retailers buy from them at wholesale rates. However there are
very few who are actively engaged currently. This has led to low engagement of weavers
in the hand-loom activity.
a Irregular work: Weavers work on thpir leisure time based on the individual orders that
they are able to sources which leads to irregular availability of work. Also, during rainy
seasons work is not available and not during the festive seasons.

a Limited product design & diversification: Majority of the total production in the cluster
comprises of Pachra, Anchal, RIsa, Gamchha, Shawl. Other than these,.other products like
bedsheets, curtains, bags are there. Better design, value addition & exposure to urban
markets can help in creating more product designs & diversification.
a Limited raw material suppliers: Majority of the raw materials is sourced from 1-2
suppliers in Agartala, Golbazar. Dis-aggregated sourcing of raw material and limited

19 | f' :,r ;: r:
 \\
N

number of supplier lead to higher cost of raw material. Aggregation of the raw material
needs of the cluster and looking for alternative suppliers may help in negotiating better
deal with the suppliers.

fi . Recc")nrifi e]r{trations

Based on our observations, it is recommended that a PE led integrated value chain

develoPment program for promotion of handloom value chain across 3 districts of
Trinura.
Some of the key areas of intervention proposed for promotion of the handloom value are
listed below:
a Institutional Design: It is imperative to create a sustainable livelihoods framework that
would ensure that a producer-owned enterprise [PE) is established on commercially-
viable model leading to the long-term socio-economic benefits for its producer members.

The proposed functional areas of the PE are as follows:

FN]!,4ry!.a.j',.::il
r Plxw*+eutdWori*s: ,: i 0tsi€nd*v*l*p*ezt. . r $r{ql5oxning & mre*a*dlrlzg r Pr*dudidq enha**ment 1,1rr*i:$ skill
.:,frtdixtstmil i*tntb$r r fudud dlver*ifi<*ti*r'r r srie.s tins!gi},rc{,$ piat&.ryx S upgradation & ar*ss ts imrrllis*d h+k

' *ulhf*ri:*s+,& l r fr*duttt* tisrl& extibititlri \'f**rng rapital irpp+rt

:. di:,tti$t*it* ol rdti,iai '
', , *bric*li+* usi*g lxbrics& r 0 tiiJ,il$rltt & s{xippit:g Ac{iss ts pro$il.tion ir'}fa
ixpus {{*Hs,l & 5!1k Yasl} $l$1l$ti$u,.r:r. r' r trtt:di$f &lr#rrolior ' ,,,-.:. Qurlitt monitoring & cor'i'r+lianre

a Establishing of production systems: Consolidation of production base through creation

of adequate aggregation and value addition infra at cluster-level and strengthening of
input supply and pre & post loom activities at village-level is required. Productivity
enhancement through skill development training & technical support will increase the
productivity and improve the quality. Moreover, appropriate provision for professional
manpower support for cluster operations ensure sustainable functioning of the
commercial activities of proposed PE.
The resultant cluster operational framework for handloom value chain has been
illustrated below:
]NTFR\'ATIiN
AREA5
fiarHsti$sii $ai+s

r:r:==: 11:
.,,:::- tlrdff:: .= E?:*#1{in,eta:ilcr /
.::::::::::+{ji.s{ift$
rie
=*udris*4!/iaF

w-cver Fahrirs .fl:{r:fr{t}ik:i {-

PFOPO$E1] VC
riJ-JN*s;.a?iii5 ::=,= {fir$r:'::=
urrurrsE

lnput h,laterial
, un**iiOrtlr,&r.
Gi?q, Fl lfisufa
.:::::::j.:::::::,l::=,.

ACICRS FrrdutslrEnt+Brb* Flar!*i Farhr;r# FI

a Developing direct channels for input supply: Provision for bulk input aggregation
needs to be done to ensure timely supply of desired quality and quantity, Establishing

20 ll:;gr:
 oj
\

direct linkage with the yarn supplier may lead to cheaper price. It is also very helpful to
leverage Iocal silk yarn production.

' Providing direct market access to the weavers: Establishing direct linkage with the
consumers for both traditional and diversified products is required, provision of city-
based retailing oftraditional products is required. Diversification ofsales channel can be
done' Branding & promoti-on of Tripuri hand-loom products including process
certification will be great support for selling the products.
e Developing new product ranges and design innovation: Woven structure & design
development is required to attract the consumers. Product diversification
[home textiles
& fashion accessories) for mainstream urban markets- outside the State will also increase
the demand of woven product.
Based on TRLM's acceptance of the scoping study report, the next uhase of proposal
development can be commenced with support of FDRVC at the earliest.

,*

2Lll,;tg*
 \o,l

A" AruNI,:X[Jruffi

,:.] List r:l Slnl<*l-;*ld*':"s il*r;si:ilr:ri

SHG Members & Weavers

Meeting with SHG women practicing handloom weaving were consulted with in the following
locations:

1. Saddubia & Langagora, Mohanpur Block, West Tripura

2. Sangkhala & East Simna, Hezamara Block, West Tripura
3. Padmanagar, Charilam BIoc( Sepahijala
4. Durga Chowmuhani Bloc( Dhalai
5. Salema Block, Dhalai

Government Departments & Asencies

# Name De artment Phoneno -
1 Shri M Kumar DepuV Director, WSC 9889215221
) Shri Subrata Bhattach NHDC 9436125779
3 Smt Swapna Das Addl. Director, Dir. of Industries &
commerce
4 Shri P.L. Chakma Director- Dir. Of Handloom,
Handicrafts & Sericulture
5 Shri Shyama Charan Deb Burman Assistant Director Handloom 9436129823
6 Shri Bapi Deb Handloom 94364879L0
7 Shri N.Murasing Dy. Director [Sericulture)
o
() Shri Subal Saha Ast. Marketing Officer-Purbasha 9436492352

Innut Sunnliers
# Name Description Phone no
1 Rainbow Textrles Yarn shop in Agartala 9862178194
2 Gautam Debnath Yarn shop owner in Agartala 9774066951

22|i:';i:r:
 s
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h) Ii*t# VistI Fir[ur*s

Mohan Block

iH8$*trtilj&fi $fi *ti?elt*tr

*ffiwfi*t1f,&&t&H1gJ;IJ![#w&,wa\fi *ffi\?&
!t*&tt &rid *s* F**iki Flia*ry ef il?*|tll?l

$ntduhi* {j.$. ild*l':**g*r B.t). *lnr:kj

&$rt*l€ i,!{*Et Tri+rif i!1

23 1?;tg*
M Block

{t

24 ll:;:gt:
 Hezamara Block

= {
ffiT!:=:ffi

:1.i::::::::::-.iiltll1L tr:..,.,:.+ft
ilLi

..4 .::1:

\ ".ll sw:

+l :,

lii:

ffi$

:=
.1:

25 ll'l-tr:
 Salema Block
=:::
= 1,i
.:1
,1,
11
i
.i
.:=
'al :q:l
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.:.
L':: *g
=,
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= :: :

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261