DIY Dress Making For Photographers Fabrication Guide Lindsay Adler

DIY
DRESSMAKING
FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS
Fabrication Guide
Table of Contents
Making the Dress
Introduction........................................... 3 Helga..................................................... 47
Veronica................................................. 52
Tools...................................................... 5 Renata................................................... 58
Fabric.................................................... 6 Duchess................................................. 63
Ava ........................................................ 71
Setups
About The Author.................................. 76
Bryona................................................... 8
Chrome Goddess.................................. 13
Lory....................................................... 17
Luna....................................................... 23
Sonia..................................................... 29
Athena................................................... 35
Bella....................................................... 41
DIY DRESSMAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER 2

Introduction
As artists we spend a great deal of time considering every element of our frame.
From the lighting, to the background, our color choices, the poses… all of it works
together toward a beautiful image. Unfortunately, when the clothing is dull or doesn’t
fit your vision, the entire image will fall flat.
On the other hand, when you have a strikingly elegant or creative wardrobe it can
make your images really sing! That is where this course steps in and why I hope it
is as exciting for you and it is for me. We are opening up entirely new skill sets that
can elevate our photography, give us more control, and add a new layer of creative
expression!
Today my clients range from personal branding shoots and editorials for world-
famous magazines, to major advertising campaigns -- but that’s not where I started.
I grew my career in a small town with no access to interesting styling and I only
dreamed I could have created more elegant looks for my subject. This class is the
resource I wish I had for my stylized portraits, maternity, high school senior and even
fashion shoots.

Introduction
Prior to this class I had no experience with dressmaking… at all. That is why I
wanted a class that focused on easy techniques, simple and inexpensive tools, and
an overall focus on budget and availability.
If I have no experience with fashion design, what makes me qualified to teach this
class? For this class I teamed up with my friend and incredibly talented artist
Lory Sun to invent these simple yet striking designs for you (and for me!).
If you haven’t seen Lory’s work it is creative, exciting, edgy, and she really is one
of those people who can do it all! I first was introduced to her about a decade ago
with her DIY headpieces that made me fall in love with her vision and ability to make
inexpensive items look couture. She has taught me so much throughout the years,
and I know there is still a great deal to learn! Today her pieces can be seen on Cardi
B, Lady Gaga, and some of the most influential faces of our times – who better to
teach us DIY dressmaking essentials!
For this class I asked her to create 12 looks that I as a novice could master. The
designs include no sewing whatsoever and focus on budget-friendly options that
you can customize to each subject. Some of the looks are dreamy and ethereal,
others are sexy, while others are more creative and avant garde.
To create these 12 looks, this course is comprised of 4 main learning tools:
Step-by-Step Video: Each design has a video that walks you through every step of
the dressmaking process. This video will be an invaluable tool to watch, pause, and
re-watch as you create your designs.
Dressmaking Companion Guide: This companion guide is great to keep on hand

as you create your designs. It contains links to the necessary fabrics, tools,
undergarments and embellishments for each look. Furthermore, it is a fabulous
reference for each step of the process to reference after watching the video portion
of the class. Note: Watching the accompanying videos is required to understand
how to use the guide.
BTS Shoot Video: Watch and learn as I bring the designs to life in these behind the
scenes video. I walk you through my lighting decisions and the tools required to
achieve the same look.
Lighting Recipe Guide: This guide provides everything you need to be able to exactly
recreate the looks from the shooting portion of the class. It includes bts photos,
lighting diagram, gear list, distance/power of light and much more.

Tools
Before you dive into making your fabulous new dresses, I recommend checking the
links below for my recommendations of essential and extras tools that may make
things easier. Note: If items are out of stock or no longer available you can always
find alternatives as these items are mostly generic.
Essential Tools:
Sewing sheers (budget): $9

Sewing sheers (nicer quality): $30
Microstitch Tagging Gun (nice quality): $35
Microstitch (budget): $17
Mannequin (budget): $39
Mannequin (nicer quality): $170
Elastic bands (black and white): $8
Straight Pins: $5
Safety Pins: $5
Extras
Electric scissors: $45

Fashion Tape: $11
Roll On Body/Fabric Adhesive: $22
Elastic hair bands: $5
Pin cushion ring: $10
Pin cushion: $6
Black Satin Ribbon: $10
Microstitch fastener refill white and black: $12
Underwear, Pasties and More:
C-String Thong (strapless underwear): $13

Reusable pasties: $26
Disposable pasties: $7
Tube dress: $17
Nude color thongs: $21.99

Fabric
Buying Fabric:
Resources
• Amazon Fabrics (formerly fabric.com) • Etsy Fabrics
• Joanne Fabrics • Fabric Wholesale
• Mood Fabrics • Fashion Fabrics Club
• Zelouf Fabrics • Ice Fabrics
• SpoonFlower • Online Fabric Store
Despite the low costs of today’s ‘fast fashion’, buying fabric isn’t necessarily cheap. I
recommend that you begin by finding a fabric store near you and signing up for their
emails and coupons. Watch for seasonal sales or special offers to help bring costs
down. If you can be patient you can find fantastic bargains! If you don’t know any
better, you can end up spending way too much! In fact, a lot of the fabric used in this
guide were up to 50% cheaper when purchased at a local fabric store (even without
coupons).
Buying in person is also great because you can feel the fabric. You can check
its weight, elasticity and quality. The dresses we are making only need to look
good in a photograph, but feeling the quality helps you understand what you are
paying for and working with. Plus, while you are in store you can shop around for
embellishments that can make your designs just a bit ‘dressier’ without a lot of cost.
That being said, you may be looking for a specific fabric you can only find online or
don’t live close to a fabric store.
Etsy, for example, has individual retailers that are going to give you really low prices
because many are sourcing directly from overseas (China, India, etc). This means
that delivery times may be very long and that you cannot guarantee quality. But if
you can wait and don’t mind some imperfections, this may be the ideal budget-
conscious option. Plus, you’ll be able to find some really unusual options that aren’t
at a standard fabric shop.
Websites like Mood Fabrics have endless options to choose from and when doing
your search you can narrow down by color, fabric and the quality you are looking
for– it even lets you put budget-friendly as a central search feature!
SpoonFlower is another great option with fabrics that have custom patterns (you can
even design your own fabric or wallpaper) and that offer some really unique designs
you can’t find elsewhere because they truly are one of a kind!

Fabric
In other words, there are many sites and resources out there -- it all depends on the
vision for your shoot and your budget. Trust me, budget-friendly options will do the
trick for most of these designs – it’s about how you photograph them that matters!
Once you’ve grabbed your essential tools and a few pieces of fabric, it is time to
dive into these designs. You’ll notice that for each one we’ve recommended a type
of fabric. That doesn’t mean this is the only fabric that will work for this design. In
fact, we selected a range of fabric types to help you get your hands on something
new and learn a bit more about fabric. Before this class I basically knew about velvet
and tulle, and now I’ve been introduced to some really fun and creative options like
organza and micro pleated fabric.
Remember, there are two really great things about designing your own pieces.
1. You can customize a piece to your subject’s preferences and body type. You
can choose a fabric in their favorite color or color that fits your vision. Next you
can pin and fit the dress to flatter them gorgeously.
2. You can creatively customize each look. Add embellishments. Create a train.
Enhance the volume. The more you practice you’ll start to get creative and adjust
the designs with your own signature style. Do you like simple and elegant?
Simplify the designs for something clean and timeless. A big fan of ‘more is
more’? Keep on adding fabric and rhinestones!
What are you waiting for? Let’s get designing!

k i n g
Ma
THE
Bryona
GOWN
Fabric
Cost per yard: $3.96
Undergarment
Total: $11
Undergarment
Amount of Fabric: 3 yards
Fabric Type: Lace
Pieces: 1 Piece
Difficulty:
Note: You can also use a lace table cloth for lace, as seen here.
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BRYONA 8

Making The Dress Bryona
Part 1
1. Lay fabric out on the ffoor. Measure height from the ffoor to the top of the mannequin’s or
model’s shoulder. Measure that distance from the edge of the fabric and mark it with a safety pin
(point A).
2. Measure from the ffoor to the spot in the center of the mannequin where the bottom of the
neckline will hit.
3. Measure this distance on the fabric and mark with a safety pin (point B).
4. Measure circumference of the waist and mark a line of that distance with safety pins (points D)
perpendicular to the neckline markings on the fabric, just below the neckline markings.
5. Pin a safety pin on each side of the edges of the fabric, about halfway between the flrst two
safety pins that marked the neckline (points C).

Part 2
1. Fold fabric in half, lengthwise.
2. Cut neckline, curving around the ffrst safety pin and ending at a point near the second safety pin,
creating a teardrop shaped opening.
3. Create second cut for arm openings, beginning at safety pin at the edge of the fabric and ending
at the safety pin that marked the horizontal line pinned across the fabric.
4. Cut in a curved line, cutting through both layers of fabric at once.

1 2
Part 3
1. Drape fabric over mannequin, placing head through the neckline opening.
2. Temporarily drape fabric in the back over the mannequin’s head so that you can access the
back more easily.
3. Take the corners of the sleeves and pin them behind the back, creating a waistline. Un-drape
the fabric from the mannequin’s head so it falls over the pinned fabric in the back.

Diagram
120 in, 305 cm
60 in, 152 cm

a k ing THE
M
Chrome Goddess
GOWN
Fabric
Embellishment
Total: $28
Undergarment
Undergarment
Fabric Type: Micropleat
Elastic string
Pieces: 3 Pieces
Difficulty:
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER CHROME GODDESS 13

Making The Dress Chrome Goddess
1 2
Part 1
1. Tie elastic around waist and make sure it is secure, as this will support the bulk of the fabric of
the dress. Take piece (A) of fabric and fold repeatedly into a small ‘stack’ of fabric. Tuck into the
back side of the waist, overlapping the waistband by 1-2 inches.
2. Once the fabric is tucked in, spread out the pleats to cover the buttocks and sides of hips.
This is the back of the dress. Once you like the look of the fabric, feel free to stitch in place
around the elastic every few inches.

1 2 3
Part 2
1. Drape the chain around the subject’s neck and adjust the length until is is at the desired ‘top’ of
the dress. Take piece (B) of the fabric, folding the edges inwards multiple times, and then thread
the end through the last chain link. Use the microstitch to hold this in place. Then, ffip the fabric
over so the metallic side faces forward.
2. Repeat with piece (C) on the other side of the chain. These two pieces will form the top of the
dress.
3. Wrap the chain belt around the waist, over piece (B) and (C), holding them in place. If you want
the chest pieces to be even more secure, tuck them into the elastic waistband as well as under the
belt.

Diagram
57 in, 145 cm
9 in, 23 cm
9 in, 23 cm
72 in, 183 cm
54 in, 137 cm

k i n g
Ma
THE
Lory
GOWN
Fabric
Embellishment
Total: $30
Fabric Type: Velvet
Pieces: 2 Pieces
Difficulty:
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LORY 17

Making The Dress Lory
1 1
Part 1
1. Take the larger piece of fabric (A) and fold it in half. Take the midpoint of the fabric and place it
in the back of the waist, wrapping the two sides of the fabric around to the front and safety pin in
place.

1 2
Part 2
1. Take the smaller strip of fabric (B) and wrap it around the bust, tying in the back.
2. Create a gather at the bust and stitch in place. You can also use a pin if placed inside the fabric,
not visible to camera.

1 2 3
Part 3
1. Take the ends of the ffrst piece (A) and bring them up to the neck. This draws the bottom
of the dress upwards. Feed the edges of the fabric thorugh the belt buckled (or other
embellishment).
2. Once the fabric is through the buckle, take the edges and pin them together behind the neck.
Adjust the edges of the neck fabric to hide any unffnished edges and to make the pleats/folds
more even.
3. Adjust the placement of the the buckle to the center of the bust or whatever is most flattering
for your subject.

1 2
Part 4
1. Next, grab excess fabric in the front left of the subject, about 1-2 feet down from the waist. Pin to
the left side of the body, adjust the fabric pucker, and create volume (as seen here).
2. Repeat on the right side for symmetry. Adjust the amount of fabric grabbed or the position of
the pinning for different results.

Diagram
6 in, 15 cm
106 in, 269 cm 112 in, 284 cm
63 in, 160 cm

k i n g
Ma
THE
Luna
GOWN
Fabric
Undergarment
Total: $20
Undergarment
Elastic string
Fabric Type: Velvet
Pieces: 2 Pieces
Difficulty:
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LUNA 23

Making The Dress Luna
1 2 3
Part 1
1. Take one of the edges of fabric (A) and pin it at the shoulder of the mannequin.
2. Take the other corner of the fabric and bring it around the back (behind the mannequin) and
back up across to the shoulder where it was originally pinned, draping across the chest. Both
edges should be pinned in place.
3. The result is the shape of a dress that covers the bust on both sides and pins in place over one
shoulder.

1 2
Part 2
1. Take the belt (B) and wrap it around the waist, fastening in the back by tying a knot.
2. Adjust the fabric on the bust so that is is covering appropriately. Adjust the pleats for
pleasing results.
Note: As you can see, the subject’s bottom is currently revealed. You can pin the back of the
dress up into the tied waist or simply tuck it in place.

Part 3
1. Take a piece of black or skintone elastic. Unpin the corners of the fabric that are pinned at the
shoulder, then fold the corners around the middle of the piece of elastic, encasing the elastic and
safety pinning in place (from underneath to hide the safety pin).
Attach the other end of the elastic to the waistband fabric. You can simply tie them in place with a
knot or whatever else is easiest, as this part of the dress will not be visible.

Part 4
1. Take the bottom right of the dress and pin it to the belt area in the back of the dress. This
creates an asymmetrical hemline.
Note: This step is totally optional but can give more shape to the dress. Depending on where
you grab the fabric, where you pin it, or how you gather it, you will achieve different results.
Arrange to create an asymmetrical hemline.

Diagram
60 in, 152 cm
5 in, 13 cm
67 in, 170 cm 72 in, 183 cm

a k i n gTHE
M
Sonia
GOWN
Fabric
Cost per yard: $6.50 (on sale)
Embellishment
Total: $29
Embellishment
Amount of Fabric: 4.5 yards
Fabric Type: Satin
Pieces: 2 Pieces
Difficulty:
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER SONIA 29

Making The Dress Sonia
1 2
Part 1
1. Take long piece of fabric (A) and fold one long edge down about three inches, stitching in a
few places to secure. On each end fold the fabric over twice to hide the raw edge and stitch in
place.
2. Begin on one end by creating a pleat about two inches wide. Continue pleating across the
edge of the fabric, folding the pleats so they overlap each other.
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER SONIA DRESS 30

1 2 3
Part 2 Continued
1. On a flat surface, take neckpiece and attach two pieces of ribbon (one on each side). These
will be used to tie around the subject’s neck.
2. Next, take the pleated end of the fabric and attach the neckpiece. Attach using stitches on
the back side of the fabric, near the interior of the fold (as seen above).
3. The fabric should completely cover the edges of the neckpiece and can even slightly wrap
upward around the neckpiece if desired.

1 2
Part 3
1. Tie neckpiece around mannequin’s neck. Then take the smaller piece of fabric (B) and tie around
the waist in a knot, creating a belt.
2. To make the second piece of fabric appear clean and ffnished, be sure to fold the unffnished/cut
edges of the fabric under.

Part 4
1. Using a safety pin, close the fabric around lower back to cover rear and tuck the fabric into the
waistband for a cleaner ffnish.

Diagram
8 in, 20 cm
154cm
154 in, 391 in 162 in411 cm
162 in,
54 in, 137 cm
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER SONIA DRESS 34

k i n g
Ma
THE
Athena
GOWN
Fabric
Elastic string
Total: $60
Undergarment
Undergarment
Fabric Type: Georgette or Polyester Chiffon
Pieces: 4 Pieces
Difficulty:
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER ATHENA 35

Making The Dress Athena
1 2
Part 1
1. Tie the first piece of elastic around the hips. Tie second piece of elastic by draping it diagonally
across one shoulder and wrapping it around to create an X across the chest.
2. Take piece (A) of fabric and gather it to create a stack of folds, then tuck the end of it into
the front of the hip elastic. Spread the fabric to fan out the folds a bit. Stitch at a few places for
stability.

1
Part 2
1. Take piece (B) and repeat step
1 on the back of the hip elastic.
Spread fabric across the entire
back side of hips.
Note: If the elastic shows in your photo, consider a color that will blend with the subject’s
skintone or perhaps match the fabric. Here white was selected to make it easier to see in the
guide.
For comfort, the subject can wear a bodysuit or bra/underwear to be removed before the shoot,
this allows you to build the piece on the subject and customize your design to their body.

1 2 3
Part 3
1. Take piece (C) and stitch the top edge of the middle of the fabric to the back of the chest
elastic.
2. Wrap the ends of the fabric around the front and cross one over the other to create an X in
front of the waist. Stitch each end of the piece at the hip.

1 2
Part 4
1. Take piece (D) and stitch the middle to the back elastic.
2. Bring ends of fabric around front, crossing to create an X across the bust with the ends of the
fabric draped back across the shoulders. Stitch to secure.

Diagram
180 in, 457 cm
60 in, 152 cm
120 in, 305 cm
396 in, 1006 cm

18 in, 18 in,
46 cm 46 cm
144 in, 366 cm

k i n g
Ma
THE
Bella
GOWN
Fabric
Elastic string
Total: $35
Undergarment
Fabric Type: Shimmer Polyester Spandex
Undergarment
Pieces: 2 Pieces
Difficulty:
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BELLA 41

Making The Dress Bella
1 2 3
Part 1
1. Take the corner of large piece of fabric (A) and fold raw edges under. Then attach this corner
to a piece of elastic, pinning or tying them together. The fabric is heavy, so you will want it to be
secure. This will form the shoulder strap of this single shoulder dress. Drape this fabric corner
over the shoulder and temporarily pin to the back of the mannequin’s shoulder.
2. Take narrow strip of fabric (B) and tie it around the waist to form a belt. Once this is secured
tightly, unpin the shoulder strap and tie the elastic directly to the waist band. This connects the
two main pieces of the dress.
3. Pin the lower bottom fabric of the dress together (using one more more safety pins) so that
the subject’s buttocks are not exposed. You can make it a nicer finish if you expect to see part of
the back of the dress.
Note: If you expect to see the back of the dress, you can use another piece of the dress fabric to
make strap that connects the shoulder to the waistband. This will make the design a bit cleaner
and easier to photograph from all angles, though it will be less flexible and trickier to adjust than
the elastic strap.

1 2
Part 2
1. If you adjust the pleats in the dress, this could be a completed look without further
adjustments. For this design we are going with a shorter look and more volume, but always feel
free to modify / stop when you like the look of your progress.
2. Pick up large piece of fabric in the middle at approximiately knee length. Pull this piece up
to waist, tucking it under belt. Repeat this step, picking up fabric, draping it up to the waist, and
tucking it under the belt.

3 4
Part 2 - Continued
3. Continue until fabric is draped under belt all the way around to the back.
4. Spread out fabric at waistband to fill in gaps.

5 6
Part 2 - Continued
5. Feel free to allow some pieces to hang lower to give more of a train in the back. Look for the
‘cinderella swoops’ to the draping of the fabric.
6. If there are any raw edges of the fabric showing, feel free to tuck them under and stitch into
the dress to hide them.

Diagram
6 in, 15 cm
246 in, 625 cm 252 in, 640 cm
54 in, 137 cm

k i n g
Ma
THE
Helga
GOWN
Fabric
Cost per yard: $7.99 (depending on the color)
Undergarment
Total: $36
Hair bands
Fabric Type: Pleated organza
Pieces: 3 pieces
Difficulty:
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER HELGA 47

Making The Dress Helga
1 2 2
Part 1
1. Take the large piece of fabric and cut it into 3 separate pieces. Each cut should be
approximately 24 inches apart.
2. Take one piece (A) and tuck one side of stack of pleats inside the back of the bodysuit,
stitching or pinning in place. Fan the right corner out into a semi-circle and attach at the left hip,
then take the other side (left) and fan it out, attaching it to the opposite side of the dress. The
result so far is a circle shape created behind the subject on the left shoulder.

1 2
Part 2
1. Create a p“ ocket” in the front center of the subject’s bodysuit to help hold the second piece of
fabric. Make a deep fold in the bodysuit and safety pin both sides to create a small depression.
2. With the second piece of fabric (B), put a small elastic hair band on one end to hold the
shape. Next, put one side of the gathered fabric into the pocket, and pin it in place with a safety
pin.
3. Begin to spread the fabric out into a semi-circle and attach to the body suit with a microstitch
when the shape looks asethetically pleasing. Here we attached one end to the bust (left) and the
other end to the lower hip (left).
4. Stitch at waist.

1 2 3
Part 3
1. Take the ffnal piece of fabric (C) and put an elastic hair band about 1/3 of the way in.
Attach this to the center of piece (B) using a safey pin.
2. Take the long side of piece (C) and fan it out, stitching it where appropriate on piece (B). Try
nesting the folds of the fabric for a less noticeable stitch.
3. Take the smaller piece of fabric (C) and begin fanning/curling it around until it hides the inner
elastic and creates a compositionally pleasing shape.
4. Stitch in place.

Diagram
19 in, 48 cm each
162 in, 411 cm

When stretched out

k i n g
Ma
THE
Veronica
GOWN
Fabric
Undergarment
Total: $44
Fabric Type: Velvet
Pieces: 3 pieces
Difficulty:
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER VERONICA 52

Making The Dress Veronica
1 2
Part 1
1. Fold the large piece of fabric (A) in half, wrapping around the waist. Tuck ends of fabric
into the cross straps in the back, pinning in place with safety pins. The back won’t be visible to
camera, so attach in whatever way you find easiest.
2. Leave some slack on the fabric so that it can be pulled up and pinned to the neckline in the
front. You can reduce the amount of slack by attaching more fabric to the back of the subject.
Here, having the fabric dip below the belly button is a good way to start.

1 2
Part 2
1. Bring the fabric in the front
up and stitch to the top of the
cups in a draped sweetheart
neckline. As always, be sure to
tuck the raw edges under the
cups and pin in place. You can
pin in the center of the chest
if you want a more deffned,
structural form (rather than
draped).
2. Take the thin strip of fabric

(B) and wrap it around the
waist, tying in the back.
2 3 3. Arrange folds under the

belt to create pleating. You
can gather the fabric more or
spread it out for more dramatic/
subtle texture.
Note: At any point in this process you can pin or stitch the back of the dress to hide the
subject’s bottom. You can also leave it open for more flexibilty if you want to spread the fabric
out for movement or pin it tighter for a more defined form around the legs.

Part 3 2 3
1. Take the ffnal piece of

fabric (C) and lay flat on a
table. Fold in the two sides
toward the middle, then fold
them again to create pleats.
Pin in place both at the ends
and in a few places along the
length of the fabric to hold
pleats in place.
2. Drape fabric across the

bust and around the arms,
pinning in the back around
the straps of the bodysuit.

3 4
Part 3 Continued
3. Stitch at various places across the bust line to create a draped shape. Begin by taking the
uppermost edge and stitch along the top of the bust line.
4. Begin with small folds of fabric, stitching them in place to the piece of fabric above it. This
creates shape and flow. Stitch until you achieve the desired level of structure.
Note: This final piece of fabric can be used in many ways. Try wrapping it around the shoulders,
or even around the head like a cloak. This allows you to get creative and make your own
variations on this design! Also, remember that the fabric belt we created could be replaced by
other embellishment like a metal belt, ornate cording, rhinestone applique, and more to give
variety.

Diagram
6 in, 15 cm
23 in, 58 cm
118 in, 300 cm 147 in, 373 cm
61 in, 155 cm

k i n g
Ma
THE
Renata
GOWN
Fabric
Elastic string
Total: $56
Fabric Type: Marine Vinyl
Pieces: 7 Pieces
Difficulty:
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER RENATA 58

Making The Dress Renata
1 2 3
Part 1
1. Fold piece A in half. Then fold over the end twice to hide the raw edge, stitching in place.
Create a pleat about two inches wide and stitch in place on the end. Move along the fabric a few
inches, then make another pleat. Continue making folded pleats along the full edge of the fabric,
stitching on each please. Repeat this process to create two more pieces like this (B and C) to
serve as the back and top of the dress. In the end you will have a total of 3 pleated pieces in the
same style.
2. With one of the pleated pieces, take a large piece of paper and crumple it up, then slide it into
the opening of the fabric to create volume. Here we used scrap seamless paper but you could
also use garbage bags, bubble wrap, or other items to help keep shape. Add as much paper as
necessary to fill the opening. You can leave the edges open or stitch/pin if desired for a more
finished look (though this will likely not be visible to camera).
3. Tie an elastic around the waist, then wrap the paper-filled fabric piece around the waist and
tuck it into the elastic. Pin in place to keep it secure. This dress piece may be heavy, so several
pins will be helpful (and won’t be visible to camera).
Note: It is recommend that you build a majority of this piece before attaching to a subject.
Here the bodysuit is not part of the struture of the dress, but helpful for the subject’s comfort.

1 2
Part 2
1. Take the second piece of pleated fabric (B) for the back of the dress and tuck it under the
elastic in the back. Stitch in place. This is to finish the back of the dress and does not need to be
stuffed with paper, though you can if you wish to create more volume.
2. Now you will use the third piece of pleated fabric (C) to make the top of the dress. Flip
the piece upside down, with the raw/unfinished edge pointed downward and tuck that into the
elastic. This finished edge will form the top neckline of the piece.

1 2
Part 3
1. Take the remaining large piece of fabric (D) and fold nearly in half, leaving about four inches
on top so you can fold the top edge downward.
This allows you to line up the two raw edges and hide them. In other words, you will fold the top
edge down to create two finished sides of the fabric because the top and bottom of this piece
will be visible to camera. With the edges lined up, create pleates along the length of the pleats,
as we did in step 1. Remember to stitch each pleat to hold it in place.
2. Next, grab the small piece of fabric (E) that will act as the belt. If possible, have someone hold
piece D in place while you wrap the belt around and tie it firmly in back. Be sure to folder the
raw edges of the belt under for a more finished look. Alternatively, for a more stylized look you
can choose a more decorative belt for the waist.

Diagram
6 in, 15 cm
37 in, 94 cm
37 in, 94 cm
64 in, 163 cm 207 in, 526 cm
64 in, 163 cm
35 in, 89 cm

k i n g
Ma
THE
Duchess
GOWN
Fabric
Cost per yard: $20
Embelishment
Total: $100
Undergarment
Fabric Type: Polyester + Lurex
Pieces: 1 Piece
Difficulty:
Note: You can certainly use a different fabric choice, and the fabric we purchased was at a fabric store
(with coupon) for only $7 per yard for a total cost of $35.
DIY DRESSMAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER DUCHESS 63

Making The Dress Duchess
1 2 3
Part 1
1. Start on the right side of the mannequin, holding the first corner of fabric. Fold edges of fabric
to hide the raw edge and tuck inside of the bodysuit. Stitch the corner of fabric onto top corner
of bra cup and attach in several places to secure.
2. Pull about two feet of fabric from the side of the body and stitch under the arm near the strap,
leaving loose fabric (this will be used to make pleats).
3. Take fabric at the midsection of the mannequin and stitch on the inside of the bodysuit near
the waist. Be sure to pull tightly to create a straight line. Continue stitching at various points
along the interior edge of the bodysuit to create structure and firmly attach the fabric to the
bodysuit.

1 2
Part 2
1. ep2)tomsfrabic( xthesomG tnearhisdmlpocf
t,hen3-fbusopcai.SxrdmehstTfbuo 6aditon
othemidscn.w
2. Codtarwlyupsighne,fcb
eryvtspla.CoihdgumerTytsbap whvoc
tandshebuocrfplw viydthebogrncsalu
abric.sfexudlthv

1 2 3
Part 3
1. oabricthngefsmlpqu,dwS
optheabricfn .S sudewgaolinthrfcb
eryinch.vltxmaop)ds trneah(fbuo
2. A.seohanglbrictf w,deyoachingmtrsf
wedgunraolth,fsmi To
ok.raclentsfyvhi
3. Yo.septqundihbrco,awl
Note: If that pleating in Part 2.2 was too difficult, you can also skip that step and go for a
simpler, less ornate look by simply attaching the fabric to the bodice without the folds of fabric.

1 2
Part 4
1. Take the excess fabric from
the back and right side of the
dress and then pull it tight
against the body. Move it
around to the front of the model
and attach it to the bodysuit
under the bust on the left side.
Stitch or use a safety pin to
attach securely.
2. Find a material to use as

stuffng under the shoulder for
volume and structure. Paper,
garbage bags, and other DIY
solutions will work as long as it
3 3
is flrm and holds shape. Here
we have crinkled up a piece of
scrap seamless paper.
3. Attach the paper to the

bodice at the top, front, and
back of the bodysuit with safety
pins. Affx the paper to the
middle of the strap to keep it
secure.

1 2 3
Part 5
1. thera.Gsfdniobcl xetagrwihoN
ohidets(cwlnguravfybidth
weryfvchtmioldsan .Cwg,bertaocildhf ).Feg
out2-eabv .Ldsricwfhomtnge 3abricwthoufe
.oldsf /cheti
2. Tatach.A erfumpldo,n thigas k

odertsiblnhckap u.Byf sand/chetiug
. erhidtpa
3. Tatached)npl olde/tfnhsur(iagbc k
.typinseafrwhud

1 2
Part 6
1. Attach the belt around the waist, tying it with elastic in the back. The belt here is an inexpensive
metal belt, but you can also use another piece of fabric or other ornate embellishment around the
waist. This gives the dress its form and holds fabric in place.
2. To put the finishing touches on the dress, begin to shape the fabric. Give more volume to the
shoulder or arrange the folds at the lower part of the dress to create pleasing lines.

Diagram
169 in, 429 cm
56 in, 142 cm

k i n g
Ma
THE
Ava
GOWN
Fabric
Elastic string
Total: $48.75
Undergarment
Fabric Type: Chiffon
Pieces: 6 Pieces
Difficulty:
Note: It Is possible to create this dress with less fabric, particularly when decreasing the amount of
fabric at the back of the skirt. Look for sales on chiffon, one of the cheaper fabrics available.
DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER AVA 71

Making The Dress Ava
1 2 Part 1
1. Take fabric (A) and fold in
the sides of the long edge about
6 inches. Continue folding in
the edges repeatedly (in half
each time)and then gather into a
stack, stitching in place. Repeat
these steps to both ends of the
fabric.
2. Next, we are going to attach

fabric (A) to fabric (B) that will
tie around the model.
Lay the long, narrow piece of

fabric (B) on the table. Attach
3 4 the gathered fabric (A) using
a few stitches, leaving about 6
inches fabric (B) on either side.
This extra fabric will be used to
tie the sash around the subject.
Repeat this process for a total

of 3 sashes to be used to wrap
around your subject.
3. Drape the first sash

diagonally around the model
over one shoulder, tying in the
back.

1 2 3
Part 2
1. Create ruches by pinching in many gathers along the diagonal fabric (A) and stitching them to
the sash underneath (B) or stitching the fabric to itself (A). The goal is to create texture, structure,
and volume.
2. Take the the second duplicate sash you have created and drape it on top of the original sash
across the chest. This will create even more volume and fullness. This will also help to create more
coverage on the chest.
3. Bunch up the third sash and attach it to the right shoulder to create volume and pleasing
compositional lines to the dress.

1 2 3
Part 3
1. Tie a piece of elastic around the hips. Take the large piece of fabric and create folds along the
long edge about 2-3 inches in width. Once you have folded up a few feet of fabric, tuck into the
front of the elastic.
Continue folding and tucking fabric, spreading it as you go to create evenly distributed folds.
2. Create volume in the skirt by starting at the hips. Bunch small bits of fabric upwards, then
stitch them to make ruches.
3. Continue making ruches down the length of the skirt, starting from the top and working
downward.
Grab a couple of feet down, then lift the fabric upwards and stitch, creating ‘cinderella-like’
draping.
The open piece of the fabric (where the two ends meets) should be in the front of the dress,
creating a slit for the leg.

Diagram
6 in, 15 cm
6 in, 15 cm
6 in, 15 cm
48 in, 122 cm
48 in, 122 cm
48 in, 122 cm
378 in, 960 cm

About The Author
Lindsay Adler has risen to the top of her

industry as both a photographer and
educator. Based in New York City, her
fashion editorials can be found in a range
of publications including Marie Claire,
Vanity Fair, L’Officiel, Harper’s Bazaar and
more. As a photographic educator, she
is one of the most sought-after speakers
internationally and appears as a keynote
speaker in many of the industry’s most
prestigious events.
Lindsay engages photographers

throughout the world with her incredible
mix of creativity, technical mastery and
easy-to-understand classes. A prolific
content creator, she has a robust social
media following of photographers eager for
inspiration and education.
Her energy and enthusiastic teaching

style showcase her excitement to share
her passion and knowledge with others,
whether through her own educational
platform, Youtube, or her five books.
Lindsay is a sought after commercial fashion and beauty photographer with a robust client list that
includes NBC, UNICEF, Aveeno, Pat McGrath, Grey, and countless others. She is honored to have
been named a Canon Explorer of Light as well as a Profoto Legend of Light, and the Rangefinder
Icon of the Year.
WEBSITE INSTAGRAM YOUTUBE FACEBOOK
MEN’S PORTRAIT & FASHION POSING / LINDSAY ADLER 76

DIY Dress Making For Photographers Fabrication Guide Lindsay Adler

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DIY

Making the Dress

DIY DRESSMAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER 2

DIY DRESSMAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER 3

To create these 12 looks, this course is comprised of 4 main learning tools:

Dressmaking Companion Guide: This companion guide is great to keep on hand

DIY DRESSMAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER 4

Sewing sheers (budget): $9

Electric scissors: $45

Underwear, Pasties and More:

C-String Thong (strapless underwear): $13

DIY DRESSMAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER 5

DIY DRESSMAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER 6

What are you waiting for? Let’s get designing!

DIY DRESSMAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER 7

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BRYONA 8

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BRYONA 9

4. Cut in a curved line, cutting through both layers of fabric at once.

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BRYONA 10

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BRYONA 11

120 in, 305 cm

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BRYONA 12

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER CHROME GODDESS 13

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER CHROME GODDESS 14

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER CHROME GODDESS 15

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER CHROME GODDESS 16

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LORY 17

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LORY 18

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LORY 19

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LORY 20

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LORY 21

106 in, 269 cm 112 in, 284 cm

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LORY 22

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LUNA 23

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LUNA 24

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LUNA 25

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LUNA 26

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LUNA 27

67 in, 170 cm 72 in, 183 cm

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER LUNA 28

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER SONIA 29

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER SONIA DRESS 30

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER SONIA 31

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER SONIA 32

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER SONIA 33

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER SONIA DRESS 34

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER ATHENA 35

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER ATHENA 36

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER ATHENA 37

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER ATHENA 38

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER ATHENA 39

120 in, 305 cm

396 in, 1006 cm

144 in, 366 cm

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER ATHENA 40

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BELLA 41

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BELLA 42

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BELLA 43

4. Spread out fabric at waistband to fill in gaps.

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BELLA 44

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BELLA 45

246 in, 625 cm 252 in, 640 cm

DIY DRESS MAKING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS LINDSAY ADLER BELLA 46