Windshield Chip

Repair Training
Welcome to this windshield repair training manual for windshield chip repairs. In this manual
you will get exact consulting for windshield chip repairs. The only way you can become a
Chip Master and or Windshield Crack Repair Master. We preach that you must practice! Go
over this guide and touch every tool and repair process about 5 to 10 times to become
proficient.

Windshield Chip Repair Training

ARROW GLASS WINDSHIELD REPAIR KIT
(specific to kit) CHECKLIST
 1 Bridge
 1 Injector with cap
 1 Star Flexor
 1 UV lamp
 1 Probe
 1 Mirror
 1 Bullseye Tapper with needle
 1 Tweezers
 1 Screwdriver
 1 Center Punch
 1 Drill Bits pack (5 in ea. Pack)
 1 Cylinder Cleaning Brush
 1 Razor Blade Holder
 1 O-ring case
 1 pk Piston O-rings (12)
 1 pk Cylinder O-rings (12)
 1 pk 2" film tabs (24)
 1 Pressure disk
 1 Needle tip injector
 1 Spray bottle
 1 Cleaning jar
 1 Cordless drill / charger/battery
 1 Sunscreen
 1 UV Glasses
 1 Pit Polish
 1 Plastic scrubby
ITEMS YOU WILL NEED IN ADDITION TO
YOUR WINDSHIELD REPAIR KIT
1. Isopropyl Alcohol (70% -91%) - for cleaning your tools.
2. Petroleum jelly - (Vaseline) for lubricating suction cups
3. Glass cleaner -Sprayaway is the best.
4. Cleaning Rags
5. Towel or mat for protection of the vehicle's hood
6. Penlight for examining the repair.

IMPORTANT NOTICE
The only real way to learn about windshield repair is to ACTUALLY DO IT! You should be
proficient and comfortable with our stone damage methods after approximately 10-20 repairs.
You must practice INSIDE. This will allow you time to develop your technique and skills
without any UV bouncing around to cause the windshield repair resin to prematurely cure.
BEFORE you go out to repair for money, you must first practice. Your name and reputation
depend on it. Here are a few ways you can get experience.

1. Purchase a 3' x 4' laminated glass from an auto glass distributor (see practice at
the home video) and lay it on a rack or on two sawhorses. Use the center punch
in your windshield repair kit to make breaks and practice drilling.

2. At some point, you will have to start repairing real breaks on other people's windshield.
Start with neighbors, relatives or friends. Once you start with customers you do not have to
charge if the repair does not turn out well.

You have to practice and you have to do the repairs. Watching may give you some tips but
you cannot be confident in your windshield repairs until you've done them. Using the center
punch in your windshield repair kit, press it against the glass until it clicks.

This will make a stone break. Remember that like everything else windshield repair takes
practice while learning, but you will make mistakes. A break will spread or you may break a
drill bit (sometimes they stick in the glass). The spread can be fixed and the drill bit can be
removed from the glass, it's all in how cool you remain when it happens.

SAFETY WARNINGS
1. DO NOT LOOK AT THE ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT. It can damage the retina of
your eyes. Wear 100% UV protective sun or safety glasses whenever you have it
turned on and make sure the customer is not within its range.

2. AVOID GETTING WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN AND CHEMICALS ON YOUR

SKIN. The resins contain an acid(s), which can cause blistering. Cleanliness is important. Do
not allow the resin to drip down your injector. Wear protective polyethylene gloves and/or
combine with a protective hand lotion. Wash your hands after each repair.
3. DO NOT GET WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN ON PAINTED SURFACES. The acid
will eat the paint. Make sure you have the customer's vehicle well protected.
4. THIS PROCESS IS NOT FOR COMMERCIAL AIRCRAFT GLASS.
5. DO NOT PERFORM ANY WINDSHIELD REPAIR THAT MAY HINDER THE
DRIVER'S LINE OF VISION.
6. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES for protection against loose glass and resin.

Windshield Repair Resin

Shelf Life:2 years at room temperature. Choosing the proper windshield repair resin(s) for a
particular job is a major part of the art and science of windshield repair. Making the right
choice will make the windshield repair fast, easy and great looking. Choosing the wrong
windshield repair resin can cause trouble while doing the windshield chip repair and
deterioration down the road.

Windshield Repair Resin Safety: We recommend that you wear glasses, gloves or hand
protectant lotion when using the resins. Gloves, because some people react to the acid content
with continued use, especially in combination with the drying effects of the alcohol used to
clean your tools. Arrow Glass carries glove and cotton inner liners. Use your safety glasses
provided in your windshield repair kit to protect you from small bits of glass, breaking drill
bits, needles or resin.

Windshield Repair Resin Quality & Composition: The Arrow Glass windshield repair
resins are the strongest and most durable resins in the windshield repair business.They do
contain a small amount of acid because it improves the chemical bonding process to the glass.
Windshield repair resins without acid will not sustain the stress of temperature extremes. The
underlying basis for choosing windshield repair resin is that you want to use the thickest resin
possible, given the circumstances. Water thin resins will have considerably lower cohesive
strength, as will windshield repair resins with any contaminant such as pigment used to tint.
All of Arrow Glass resins are moisture resistant -this is why no dry-vac is necessary; we use
chemistry instead of time-consuming hardware.

Choosing a Windshield Repair Resin

Windshield chip repair resins are compatible; meaning you could start with one resin and
change to another stone damage resin if necessary.

Windshield Repair Resins For Stone Damage

Chip repair resins are low viscosity (XL-M) adhesives and have three characteristics of
concern to our repairs:

1. Low viscosity resins shrink when they cure.

2. They shrink in inverse proportion to their viscosity., ie., the thinner the resin, the
greater percentage of shrinkage; thin resins shrink more than thick resins.
 3. These resins begin to cure immediately and completely cure in five (5) minutes in
direct sunlight.

Note: If you see bullseyes or combination breaks looking only partially filled after a few
months, the resin has shrunk and pulled away from the glass or laminate. The resin used
for this repair was too thin or you did not cure under pressure. You will rarely see this
on the legs of a star break because space is so minute.

Understanding Windshield Repair Resins

Xtra Liquid (XL) : Our thinnest windshield repair resin and is used for stars, starbursts, and
small partial bullseyes on cold glass.
It can be used for all breaks on all stone damage on a cold windshield and is your best choice
for a star burst. This windshield repair resin will cause "flowering" on a hot windshield.
This resin is also used to remove a "runner" which is a thin line of refraction that you may
notice after you have cured a long crack. XL chip resin can also be used to remove any spots
you notice in the crack.

Liquid (L) : Use for all stone-breaks - stars, bullseyes and combination breaks.
Use L chip resin on a star break if the windshield is room temperature. This resin is thicker
than XL chip resin.

Medium (M) : Use for all stone-breaks -large combination damages, stars or bullseyes
It can also be used as a pit filler for smaller impact points and on plate glass repairs.

Slow (S) : Use as a large-pit-adaptor and a pit-filler.

The windshield repair resin you used in the break can also be used to pit-fill and will often
last longer.
That's because resin has been sitting in the pit and has wet the pit and interacted with the glass
and we recommend this method first.
If it is not smooth after you scrape then pit fill again using the pit filler.

Windshield Repair Resin Quick Reminder Chart

1. Use the thickest resin possible given the circumstances. The Wonderbar Bridge
can repair all stone-breaks with 90-100 cps resin at room temperature and above.

2. The circumstances are the temperature and type of damage. You can use a thicker resin in
colder temperatures if you increase the temperature of the windshield and resin during the
repair. Heat the injector with a heat gun or blow dryer to heat the resin or use a soldering iron
in the injector heating hole.
Type of Damage
Temperature ranges for resin Cold (under 50) Moderate (over 50) Hot (80-up)
Star XL to L L to M M
Bullseye L M M
Combination L L* to M* L* to M*
Large Combination L L* to M* L* to M*
*Combination breaks and large combination breaks can be repaired using two stone
damage resins. The thinner resin is injected first and is probed to fill the tips of the legs as far
as possible. The injector is placed on vacuum cycle, removed and thicker resin is put in. Then
the second resin is injected to fill the large impact area, which pushes the thinner resin to the
tips of the legs. This reduces the likelihood of shrinkage related problems.

Identification Of Different Stone Chips

It is important that you develop the vocabulary of the windshield crack repair industry so
you can think in windshield repair terms. It also helps you to communicate with us when you
need assistance.

Bullseye Windshield Break

Bullseye is the easiest repair to perform and rare due to the fact that windshields are not as
heavy as they were in the early 50s, 60s, and 70s.
However, if there is not a small circle in the chip, you will have to create one. This leads to
one of the most important skills you will need to practice to master, and that is drilling. To be
a windshield chip or windshield crack master, you will have to master drilling.

* For a partial bullseye - see Drilling section and appendix.

Bullseye Chip Windshield
Combination Chip, this break is a combination; a bullseye with a star break in the center. It
is more visible after the repair than the other types of breaks listed above because the legs are
at many angles.
When there are extended cracks running past the bullseye horizontally the tips should be
drilled, a bullseye tapped and filled to prevent these legs from running.
Star Chip Windshield Break

Star Chip, is the break to concentrate on. Drilling may be necessary and the repair must be
done carefully to prevent further spreading of the cracks.
This break will often need more than just vacuum and pressure to completely fill each leg.
The Star Flexor in your windshield repair kit will help achieve complete filling of each leg.

COMBINATION BREAK: This break is a combination; a bullseye with a star break in the
center. It is more visible after the repair than the other types of breaks listed above because
the legs are at many angles. When there are extended cracks running past the bullseye
horizontally the tips should be drilled, a bullseye tapped and filled to prevent these legs from
running.

The Six Kinds Of Breaks

Surface Pit

These are typically the size of a pinhead and can be repaired but not charged for especially
not billed to an insurance company because it technically is not a break.They only involve a
chip in the glass that not extended into the middle tension zone has been removed a minute
piece of glass to form a very small crater, or a 'pit'. These surface pits are easily repaired using
the windshield repair M chip resin and a solid uv cure. After each repair you do, we always
top of with a drop of M chip resin to ensure a good seal.
Bullseye Break

This kind of break looks like it sounds. A circular cone shaped break that usually stems from
a small rock kicked up by traffic that collides with your windshield. These are larger than
surface pits and can always be repaired with a windshield crack repair kit and never require a
glass replacement. This is the only break that a DIY (do-it-yourself) kit can effectively repair.
The bullseye was very common when windshields were thicker. Nowadays the outer lite is
only 2mm thick and combination breaks more often bullseyes.

Half Moon Crack

These are essentially half a bullseye and leave the same black-like appearance, but they aren't
circular but shaped like a half moon instead. In most cases this type of break is caused by a
stone and thus makes this more of a chip. These are not too common. Most of the time you
will see the other break, bees-wing break, but has very similar characteristics. Neverthless its
more of an advanced chip to repair.

Star Break Break

Much like different types of bullseye breaks, a star break leaves an indentation at the impact
site. The difference is the outward break pattern which here takes the appearance of a star.
Straight cracks come out of the center of the crater rather than circles. This can be more time
consuming to repair than bullseyes. In more situations you will need to use special tools to fill
the legs of a star-break with resin. Some of these star breaks will have up to three to four legs.
Arrow Glass has the New Bridge to help you open up the windshield.

Long Crack
When you see a straight single line in your windshield, this is a crack. 9 out of 10 will be
coming off the edge of the windshield called an edge crack. Edge cracks are easy to repair up
to about 18 inches long with the right tools and resins. The other crack is called a floater
crack. This one is a chip or stone-break that cracked out. This crack will not run to the edge of
the windshield. The floater crack is more time consuming to repair and takes more crack-
opener tools than an edge crack.
Combination Crack

These are the most visible of all breaks and cracks after repair. A combination break is where
you see a round shaped bullseyes break with a star-break inside of it. It will often have
crushed glass around the impact point. This break should not be repaired if it is in the driver's
vision. To repair this one, you will need the Arrow Glass New Bridge. This type of break will
also need the use of the Flexor that will keep you from having a harder time with the legs in
this combination crack.
The best types of windshield crack repair resin to use for repairing glass can vary. Viscosity
plays a big role in how restorative the resin will be. Less viscous resins will work alright for
smaller dings, but you will need much more viscous and resilient resin for professional jobs.
In addition, long cracks will require specific types of tools and resins that are in our
windshield crack repair kits, whereas bullseyes, stars, combination breaks and other small
chips can be restored with our standard windshield repair kits.

Always evaluate a break or crack before rendering services to repair it, because sometimes the
windshield must be replaced.
BEFORE STARTING: It is important for you to know the basic construction of a
windshield so that you also understand how the repair is performed with a glass repair kit.
This knowledge will give you more confidence when speaking to your customer. Car
windshields are constructed of two separate sheets of glass with a thin layer of plastic called
PVB (the laminate) in between. This type of construction is known as "laminated glass" or
"safety glass". When a break results in the glass (usually caused by a small stone ), it creates
an air gap between the layers, light bounces around inside the air space, causing the break to
be visible. It also creates a weak spot in the glass which, if not repaired, will crack further due
to temperature changes that cause contraction and expansion of the glass. With the Arrow
Glass method of glass repair, the air gap is filled with an optically clear resin that removes the
refraction (light bounce). The resin bonds to the surrounding glass preventing it from
spreading. Some things that could prevent a quality repair are dirt, moisture, Rain-X or
similar products.

Head-On Angle and the Profile: Each leg or crack in a break has a head-on angle and a
profile. You must know the difference. The profile is the side of the crack (45-degree angle)
and is the angle you watch to see the resin fill. The head-on angle does not change and will
always be there. You cannot tell if the resin is filling the break if you are looking at the head-
on angle. See The United States Windshield Repair Guidelines for diagrams of the head-
on angle and profile of the crack and follow those guidelines when the break is in the acute
area.

TALKING TO THE CUSTOMER: About the repair If you are talking to the customer on
the phone, find out as much as possible about the break. How did it happen, what caused the
break? How large in diameter is the break (use easy references such as nickel, dime, quarter)?
How old is the break? Once you have determined the stone damage is repairable, tell the
customer you can repair the break, which will prevent it from spreading further, and it will
remove the light refraction so that the damage will be barely visible. It will look a lot better,
but it will NOT completely disappear. Remember you are providing a repair service, not a
new windshield. Sell the benefits... prevention of further cracking and the cost savings.

Preparing The Vehicle

1. Have the customer move the car into the shade, a garage is best, or behind a
building. (Do not get into the habit of moving the customer's car unless your
liability insurance covers you for this). A tree is not true shade. If there is no
shade, face the back of the car towards the sun and place a piece of cardboard on
the roof of the car. This will shade the entire windshield.

2. Place a thick towel on the hood of the car and place your tool kit on the towel. The towel
should drape down and cover anywhere you might lean against it. Watch out for your belt
buckle.

3. Carefully wash the area of the windshield around the break. DO NOT SPRAY
CLEANER into the break, it will contaminate the repair.
Windshield Chip Repair Procedure
All windshield repairs, stone damage, and cracks begin with these initial steps. The actual
repair does not start until after the second pressure cycle. Everything before is just
preliminary. The quicker the technician becomes at getting to that second pressure cycle, the
quicker all repairs will go.
Step #1 - Assess the damage: Consider how will you repair it, what will you expect it to look
like upon completion?
Step #2 - Place mirror on the inside of the windshield so that you can see the break.
Step #3 - Determine location and profile of legs (star break).
Step #4 - Determine if wet, or if the windshield needs to cool.
Step #5 - Is the impact point very large? If so do the large pit procedure first.
Step #6 - Wearing your safety glasses, probe the impact point. Take the sharp point of your
probe and in a circular motion move around inside the impact point removing any little chips
of glasses or dirt. This will clear the path for the resin to flow. If there is no bullseye then you
will be drilling.

How To Prepare Your Injector For a Windshield

Crack Repair

Installing O-Rings Onto The Injector Piston

Upon setting up your tool, your Bridge, first you must build it. Here we will walk you
through step-by-step for making sure the Bridge is ready for an immediate crack repair. It's
critical that you practice setting up and building the Bridge.
Step #1 Recognizing the piston is the first step in setting up your windshield chip repair tool.
You will need to assemble the o-rings near the tip of the piston. There are two small o-rings
that you will need to install onto the grooves. This helps create the necessary vacuum inside
the chamber.
CAUTION - Do not stretch the red piston o-rings or they will tear. Very slowly and
very carefully roll them on without stretching. Always lubricate them well with resin
before inserting and carefully insert into the cylinder. Once in they will last for over one
hundred repairs.

Lubricating The O-Rings

It's vital before you put the injector together that you lubricate the piston o-rings with resin.
This will prevent tearing the o-rings and will make the turning of the injector smooth and
easy.
Step #2 With windshield repair resin for glass repair lubricate the one or two o-rings on the
piston and carefully insert the piston into the cylinder until the o-rings are in the smooth part
of the cylinder chamber.
Installing O-Ring Onto The Injector Chamber
To create the necessary seal and vacuum for the Crack Master Bridge, you need to install the
x-ring onto your vacuum chamber. This o-ring is critical in also creating a meniscus that
prevents the windshield resin from leaking out.
Step #3 Seat the third o-ring onto the chamber. In order to do that you will have to push and
twist the o-ring onto the injector chamber seat. Both the seat and x-ring must be dry. Twist the
injector into the holding structure, When you are done the o-ring should sit flush.

Fill Resin & Grease 2 Inch Suction Cups

In preparation to start your long crack repair, you will need your tool to be agile and on a
windshield you don't want any friction. Use Vaseline, a good amount rubbed onto your 2 inch
soft cups. You will need a good amount to slide the Bridge down the path of a long crack.
Step #4 & 5 Lubricate the suction cups of the bridge with a liberal amount of
Vaseline/petroleum jelly for smooth sliding. Considering the size of the damaged the average
break will use 1-2 drops of windshield repair resin, place 10-15 drops of windshield repair
resin into the cylinder, which is enough for 7-12 repairs, place the large o-ring on the bottom
of the cylinder until the o-rings are in the seat of the cylinder bottom. Place the cylinder o-
ring on the cylinder, then place the tip of the bottle in the hole and squeeze resin into the
injector -see the videos for more filling information.
 Bring The Resin To The Top Of The O-Ring
Set Resin Flush With The Injector O-Ring
Now it's time to get your tool ready to be applied onto the glass. In order to get a good
injection you want to avoid letting air get added to the mix. So what we want to do is bring
the resin inside the chamber flush with the o-ring.
Remember, this is an important step to get right, also don't worry about the resin coming out.
The Quick Turn Injector assembled creates the vacuum to keep the resin into the tool.
Step #6 Bring the windshield repair resin up to the O-Ring so to remove all the air from the
cylinder, until it touches the O-Ring. This will prevent the resin from spilling out when you
turn it over to mount it.

Place The Bridge On The Glass

After setting the resin, you want to flip the Bridge top side up and ready to place the injector
over the impact point of the stone break.
The goal here is to place the tool onto the glass, make sure you have your mirror under the
break so you can aim and place the injector right over the impact point.
Step #7 Mount the Bridge on the windshield and center the cylinder over the impact point.
Push the cups securely onto the glass. The tool should have the appearance of being set onto
the glass. Twist the cylinder and the leveling screw in the back until the cylinder is flush
against the windshield and the bridge is level. NOTE: The Leveling Bolt should contact the
glass first so the resin does not spill out of the cylinder.
You Are Ready To Start The Windshield Chip
Repair
Objective: To completely fill the break with windshield repair resin using as little pressure as
possible.
Method: Vacuum and Pressure. This method is achieved by turning the piston head counter-
clockwise for vacuum and clockwise for pressure.
 Vacuum Is Up, Hence The Injector Piston Is In Up Position
Vacuum and Pressure Method
After setting the resin, you want to flip the Bridge top side up and ready to place the injector
over the impact point of the stone break.
The goal here is to place the tool onto the glass, make sure you have your mirror under the
break so you can aim and place the injector right over the impact point.
Step #8 Mount the Bridge on the windshield and center the cylinder over the impact point.
Push the cups securely onto the glass. The tool should have the appearance of being set onto
the glass. Twist the cylinder and the leveling screw in the back until the cylinder is flush
against the windshield and the bridge is level. NOTE: The Leveling Bolt should contact the
glass first so the resin does not spill out of the cylinder.
 Piston In The Down Position, Injector On Pressure
Injecting Resin Into Impact Point On Pressure
The initial placement of the windshield bridge onto the glass and hovering over the impact
point you will your piston will be in the down position and thus the initial injection of resin
will flow into the impact point.
Repairing On Pressure is a critical point here; when setting up your tool, make sure that
follow the initial placement of the tool is hovering over the impact point. This will enable you
to inject directly into the impact point. Also make sure your Bridge bar is level with the
injector and pressure bolt.
Step #9 Pressure for 10 seconds by twisting the piston head clockwise a few turns. You will
see windshield repair resin begin to flow into the break. Use enough pressure to get the o-ring
to rise slightly. Leave the piston on pressure for about 30 seconds. Note: the piston is down.
 Vacuum In Up Position Again For Wicking The Resin
Wicking Is Key, Vacuum Again For 15 Secs
What sets our tools apart from the competition has to do with getting the best possible bond.
In order to do that, there's an extra step where you need to wick the resin to get the order with
the resin polymers. When cured this chip repair will form a very strong bond!

Step #10 Vacuum again for 10-15 seconds to increase wicking. Pressure until completely
filled. Leave the tool in this mode and check your break to be sure it has completely filled.
See picture below is almost filled. For a star break, you will need to check the profile of each
leg. If the break is not filled, please see the next section "Techniques to completely fill the
break".
Close Up, After Wicking and On Pressure
Check your break to be sure it has completely filled. See picture below is almost filled. For a
star break, you will need to check the profile of each leg. If the break is not filled, please see
the next section "Techniques to completely fill the break".
When you have successfully reapplied the resin into the impact point from wicking, you will
notice the resin fill the the chip and by applying enough pressure as mentioned above you will
notice the o-ring push up. You will also notice the resin filling up all the way into the legs.
Use your mirror and look closely to watch the resin fill the legs. Once the time limit is
reached and you take your Injector off pressure as well as taking the pressure bolt off pressure
the chip will close up.
 Curing Under Pressure, Resin Bonds to the PVB Layer
Curing While On Pressure
This is the first of two cures you will do to restore the vehicles pre-loss windshield condition.
Cure your glass repair using your ultraviolet light provided in your windshield repair kit for
two minutes while keeping the tool in the pressure cycle.

ALWAYS CURE IN THE PRESSURE CYCLE TO COMPENSATE FOR

SHRINKAGE AND TO BOND TO THE PVB/LAMINATE.
 Use Flat Head To Remove Structure
How To The Remove Bridge
Before removing the tool, loosen slightly the leveling bolt, cylinder and turn the piston
counter-clockwise 1/2 turn into the vacuum mode to prevent spilling resin.
Remove the holding structure by sliding your small screwdriver under the suction cups to pop
them off.
Turn the crack master upside-down, wipe the cylinder bottom with a rag and place the
injector cap on to protect the resin from UV and prevent leaking of unused resin.
 Add a Drop Of 90 CPS Resin Over The Impact Point
Applying Pit Filler or Resin To Impact Point
After curing on pressure, you will want to make sure to add a drop of pit filler or resin (just a
drop) to fill the small pit or crater in the windshield. Small pits or drill holes can take any
resin. Larger pits need pit filler, the S chip resin.
Pit Fill by leaving a drop of the windshield repair resin you used in the repair or by placing a
drop of your pit filler above the impact point and allowing it to roll into the impact point (this
prevents air bubbles) and cover with a film tab. Be sure no bubble has been created under the
tab.

The Final Curing Of Windshield Repair Resin

When you have successfully reapplied the resin into the impact point from wicking, you will
notice the resin fill the the chip and by applying enough pressure as mentioned above you will
notice the o-ring push up. You will also notice the resin filling up all the way into the legs.
It's important to remember to let this sit for at least 5 mins to let the resin get into the pockets
and legs. Don't get impatient!
Use your mirror and look closely to watch the resin fill the legs. Once the time limit is
reached and you take your Injector off pressure as well as taking the pressure bolt off pressure
the chip will close up.

Scraping Dried Resin Using a Razor Blade

Using a fresh razor blade, scrape off the excess resin by holding the blade at a 90- degree
angle. DO NOT SLICE IT OFF because this could pull resin out of the impact area. It should
feel smooth when you are done. If it does not, repeat the Pit Filling steps 8 and 9 and 10 and
try again.
Polish the pit. Shake up your bottle of pit polish and apply a small drop to the damage. Attach
your polishing wheel and buff to your satisfaction, adding more polish if necessary.
Note: An easier way to have a clear pit is Spray Away glass cleaner. Spray on the pit before
scraping and keep the pit wet the entire time you scrape.
Note: Fresh razor blades leave a smoother less noticeable blemish .
Clean the entire windshield. (It's the extras that make a big difference).

Repair Tip #1 - Technique to prevent any waste of resin. Cure under pressure, then loosen
the leveling bolt and injector cylinder slightly. Then loosen the piston by turning it 1/4 to 1/2
turn counterclockwise, slide the screwdriver under the suction cups to remove from the glass.
Turn your tool upside down and place the cap on the injector. There will about 1/2 drop if
resin in the pit. You can use that resin for a pit-filler if the impact chip was small.

Repair Tip #2 - To probe more efficiently and quickly, go around once and flex (push on the
leg with the probe) all legs of the star break to see which are filling and which are not.
Concentrate on the ones that appear to be filling first because probing these will often help the
others open and fill. Go to each leg in turn and flex probe until filled. If a star break has
multiple legs and all but a few fills, you may need to drill them.

Techniques To Completely Fill The Chip Break

Many times just vacuum and pressure cycles will not completely fill the break. The
following are different techniques that when properly used, will make you the best.

1. Piston Pressure: Increase pressure by twisting the piston clockwise. Be careful

not to "flower" the break and be careful if the windshield is hot.

2. Flexing: Flexing opens the crack (or legs of the star breaks) up wider allowing the
windshield repair resin to flow, overfilling the break so that when you release the pressure
you have applied with your screwdriver or the Flexor, the break closes back up and the resin
will move closer to the tips. How to flex: Take your screwdriver or Flexor Tool in your
windshield repair kit and push on the leg of the star break that is not filled until you see resin
crawl further up the tips. Press and hold until leg is filled. Push at the base of the leg first and
ease out towards the point or end of the leg.
 BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL DOING THIS ON A HOT WINDSHIELD. You
could cause the leg to crack further. You can usually press harder on a cold windshield.

3. Manual Pressure Pushing: While in the pressure cycle, take your thumb or finger and
gently press on the piston, easy does it. Press and release, press and
release. Watch the resin move and fill the break. ALWAYS press gently.

4. Pressure Pushing and Flexing: Simultaneously doing manual pressure (#3) and flexing
(#2) is very effective and fast.

5. Bridge Pressure: Twist the cylinder, the leveling screw, or both. This will flex the glass
which opens the break and puts more pressure on the resin when in the pressure cycle.

Drill: When all else fails to cure, then go back and drill the unfilled section, leg or tip. This
is covered in the next section.

Drilling
To Drill or Not to Drill?
The drill is your best friend. The better you drill, the better technician you will be.

When to drill:

1. Look to see if there is a black circle underneath the impact point. If there is, you will most
likely NOT need to drill. This black circle is the bullseye of the break. If there is not one, you
will drill and create one. The bullseye indicates that there is a space/passageway that will
allow the resin to flow into the break.

2. Another way to determine whether or not to drill is to put one drop of XL chip resin on the
impact point. If you notice it seeping into the break, you do not need to drill.
Many damages will require drilling and through experience and practice, you will learn how
to tell when you should or won't have to, just by glancing at the break.
Objective: Drill the smallest, most inconspicuous hole possible

Setting Up the Drill:

Loosen the head of the drill in your windshield repair kit. Insert the drill bit and tighten the
drill head.

1. Drill about ½ of the way through the first layer of glass. DO NOT go all the way
through the first layer of glass. If you do, you will hit the laminate (plastic) and
cause a permanent mark on the laminate.
2. Place the bullseye tapper needle into the drilled hole.
 3. Tap the needle with the tapper just hard enough the create a mini-bullseye. This
will make a good size hole and allow the resin to flow into the area very easily.
4. Mount your holding structure with the injector and fill the drilled area using
vacuum/pressure cycles.
5. Cure under pressure for 2 minutes. (Cure time may vary with the intensity of
your UV light).
6. Fill the pit, cure, and polish.

Drilling is very important. You will be using it in many situations.

PRACTICE: Go to a glass shop and get a 12X12 or 24X24 inch piece of laminated glass or
purchase a windshield a place it on a rack or two saw horses. Drill and tap 10 bullseyes per
day for a week and you will be proficient by the end of the week.

Common Stonebreaks That Need To Be Drilled

Radiating Chip

Partial Bullseye Chip

Star Chip No Bullseye

Star Chip Disconnected Leg

Star Chip Leg Did Not Fill

Star Chip Extended Leg

Bees Wing Windshield Chip

Drilling Guide For Breaks

Drilling Guide For Breaks

Troubleshooting
1. Flowering: This is another reason for choosing the proper windshield repair resin
is important. Generally, flowering occurs when you are using a resin that is too
thin on a hot windshield. Use a thicker resin or make sure the glass is cool before
beginning the repair. Using too much pressure, spreading the resin out and
beyond the break can also cause flowering.

2. Black Spots: Caused by not curing the break long enough under pressure and mostly seen
in bullseyes.

3. Spotty or Dirty Appearance: This is caused by contamination of the break either by your
lubricant, moisture or very old break.

4. Cylinder O-Ring not fitting: If your o-ring does not stay on the cylinder, it may be due to
cured resin on the cylinder or the o-ring has swelled. Please see the Cleaning and
Maintenance section and/or replace the o-ring.

5. Large Impact: DO NOT REPAIR THIS DAMAGE IF IT IS WITHIN THE DRIVER'S

LINE OF VISION!
Large Impacts Fall Into 3 Categories;
All Can Be Repaired With This
Technique.

1. Impact area larger than the injector o-ring

2. A significant amount of glass missing at the impact
3. Multiple impact points

Considerations For Repair:

1. An airtight space needs to be created which can be used to deliver the resin under
pressure and to remove the air under vacuum.
2. The more of the crushed glass that is removed before the impact area is sealed,
the clearer the resulting blemish will be when the repair is complete.
3. The repair technique for these types of damages must be chosen at your initial
assessment. You cannot re-do a repair with this technique.

Windshield Repair Procedure For

Large Impacts:

Wearing your safety goggles, remove all of the crushed, pulverized and cracked glass
occupying the initial impact area or areas using the probe in your windshield repair kit. You
want to remove as much of the damaged glass as possible. When done you should have a
large crater.

1. Using S crack resin, place a generous amount on the glass above the crater and
allow it to flow/roll into the crater. Use enough resin to cover the entire break
area and let it roll into the impact point to prevent air bubble formation.

2. Place a film tab to cover the entire break area, as well as any legs that may be surfaced. It
is crucial to tab and cure quickly to prevent the resin from seeping into the bullseye or fouling
the airspace around the impact crater.

3. Cure the resin completely and remove the tabs but do not scrape. You now have a
damage that is totally sealed and airtight.
 4. Drill a passage through the cured resin into the break, usually right at the original impact
point.

5. Star legs won't fill: Star Legs not filling is a common problem. One reason a leg of a
break won't fill is that it is not connected to the bullseye or it is closed from lamination stress.
The solution then is to connect it with the least amount of work, in the least amount of time
without creating other problems use the Flexor to achieve this. Mount the Flexor in your
windshield repair kit onto the leg almost touching the injector and begin turning the pressure
bolt until you see the leg refract and connect to the breaks bullseye. Stop and let resin seep
into the leg. See the directions for the Flexor Tool. Do the same for any leg that does not
totally fill. You can also manually do this with the probe.

6. The repair cured while repairing: You were not working in the true shade. The shade of a
tree is not adequate. UV rays cure your resin and unless these are blocked the windshield
repair resin will cure. Something solid must be used; cardboard, plasticized canvas, artist
board, etc.

Cleaning Your Tools

You do NOT need to clean your tools very often. You generally store them upside-down with
resin in the injector with the cap on so you are always ready for a repair. You only need to
clean your tools when you feel the threads are not turning smoothly, the resin is not clear or
you see cured resin. To clean - loosen the set-screw of the quick-turn injector and remove the
piston out of the cylinder. Dip both pieces into 70-90% rubbing alcohol. Run the brush
through the cylinder and then dry by running a small piece of rolled paper towel through the
cylinder. Dip the threads of the bridge into the alcohol and brush the threads. Wipe the
suction cups clean or use a glass cleaner if they do not wipe clean.

For cured resin on the outside threads of your injector, soak in acetone and then brush clean.

DIY Windshield Repair UV Shield

Here's a easy to setup UV Windshield Shield that you can make in minutes and best of all
works really well with your tools. Here at Arrow Glass, we don't sell you things you don't
need; we are practical in how we do business. Get two Amazon Boxes and four 2 inch soft
cups and you can have a chip and crack uv windshield shade
Newest Technology

1. X-Phobic - Rain-X remover and brake cleaner

2. Xtra Bond - Adhesion promoter - increases the adhesive bond to the glass
3. Star Flexor - Flexes stone breaks and the legs of stars open so to completely fill
breaks.
4. Rainproof Additive - one drop added to 5-8 drops of resin will render your resin
waterproof.

Rain-X Removal for Windshield Repair

X-Phobic - hydrophobic coating remover (patent pending) is for the removal of Rain-X to
allow windshield repair adhesives to bond to the windshield glass avaliable as a pre-treatment
and an additive. Without removal of Rain-X, the windshield repair resin will be blocked from
the glass and the stone break or crack cannot be repaired. This will cause the consumer to
have to pay hundreds of dollar for a new windshield and the windshield repair technician
loses a repair job. Currently windshield repair technicians are losing hundreds of dollars per
month due to the presence of Rain-X on the windshield. The are three versions of X_Phobic:
(1) Additive, (2) pre-treatment and (3) primer for the Permashield.

This chemical mixture is a Rain-X remover for windshield repair and it will also remove
carwash wax and detergents, moisture and other contaminants.

Directions: Some technicians are reporting that Rain-X is on 40% of windshields. Ask every
customer before doing a repair if they have used Rain-X or have in their windshield washer
fluid. You ca also test every windshield for Rain-X before starting the repair by placing a
drop or two of water on the windshield surface. If it beads and rolls, there is a hydrophobic
coating, most likely Rain-X. If the water rolls down and leaves a line of water then there is
none.

Additive- Directions for Stone break: The Additive (the smaller bottle) is easier and faster.
Mix one drop to 4-8 drops of resin in your injector and stir (a toothpick works best). Then do
the repair.

Additive - Directions for a crack: Mix one drop to four to five drops of resin, then do the
repair.
Pretreatment for a Stone-Break -This is the larger one ounce bottle. Place a d rop on the
impact point of the stone-break and flex the glass to help it seep into the break. Allow it to
evaporate and then do the repair. You can speed up evaporation with a heat-gun or hair dryer.

Pretreament for a Crack - This is the larger one ounce bottle. Drop into the entire length of the
crack by cappilary action and then allow to evapoarte. Use a heatgun or hair dryer to speed up
evaporation.

Purchase Price: One bottle of pre-treatment will decontaminate over 100 breaks. One bottle of
Additive will do 60 breaks. Don't lose another job to Rain-X !

The First and Only Adhesion Promoter

for Windshield Repair

Xtra Bond (patent pending) is an adhesion promoter for windshield repair which will allow
windshield repair adhesives to have a greater mechanical and chemical bond to the windshield
glass by etching and priming the surface of the crack(s). The are three versions of Xtra Bond:
(1) Additive, (2) pre-treatment and (3) primer for the Permashield.

Directions for a stone break: Use the Additive (smaller bottle) -one drop to four drops of resin
mixed into your injector. Then do the repair.

Directions for a crack: (1) The additive (smaller bottle. Mix in your injector one drop with
five to six drops of resin and stir (a toothpick works best). As a Pre-Treatment -this is the
larger once ounce bottle, Inject by capillary action along the entire length of the crack and
allow it to evaporate. You can use a heat gun or hair dryer to speed up evaporation. We also
recommend you then prime the edge area (the four inches from the edge) of an edge crack
with primer resin after the Xtra Bond has evaporated. Wipe off any excess on the windshield
surface immediately.

Pre-Treatment Directions for a Stone-Break: Place a drop above the pit and allow it to roll
into the pit before doing the repair. Flex the break with a probe to move the Xtra Bond into
the break. Allow it to completely evaporate including any chemical that seeped into the break.
Wipe off excess immediately. You can speed up evaporation with a heat gun or hair dryer.

Re-Repair Resin -There is a huge market for the re-repair of Safelite repairs as many of their
repairs are not completely filled, many are just pit-filled. Much of this is because their
technicians are not allowed to drill and their resin deteriorates rapidly in cold weather due to
being underfilled by their repair equipment. We have seen and re-repaired as many as six in
one day. This resin bonds to glass and their resin. It will also bond to any other acrylic,
urethane, hybrid or epoxy resin which is most of the resins on the market.

For the radiating crack and partial bullsye just drill through their resin in the impact point
which will only be in the pit since they do not drill. For stars where they have clogged up the
bullseye and left the legs half-filled you drill and tap a bullseye at the tip of each leg and
completely cure with your injector in the pressure mode. For bulleye or combination break
where there are voids in the bullseye, drill the edge of the largest void to the pvb as they have
no bond to the pvb. Their resin pulls off the pvb when they cure thus leaving a void between
the resin and the pvb. After drilling to the pvb then fill using vacuum and pressure and as
always cure with your injector in the pressure mode.

Rainproof Additive - Add one drop into your injector with 4-8 drops of resin depending on
amount of water in the break. Then stir with a plastic toothpick. Do multiple pressure and
vacuum cycles to mix the resin with the water in the break. Disgard the remaining resin in the
injector after you are finished with the repair. X-Phobic - hydrophobic coating remover
(patent pending) is for the removal of Rain-X to allow windshield repair adhesives to bond to
the windshield glass avaliable as a pre-treatment and an additive. Without removal of Rain-X,
the windshield repair resin will be blocked from the glass and the stone break or crack cannot
be repaired. This will cause the consumer to have to pay hundreds of dollar for a new
windshield and the windshield repair technician loses a repair job. Currently windshield repair
technicians are losing hundreds of dollars per month due to the presence of Rain-X on the
windshield. The are three versions of X_Phobic: (1) Additive, (2) pre-treatment and (3)
primer for the Permashield.

This chemical mixture is a Rain-X remover for windshield repair and it will also remove
carwash wax and detergents, moisture and other contaminants.

Directions: Some technicians are reporting that Rain-X is on 40% of windshields. Ask every
customer before doing a repair if they have used Rain-X or have in their windshield washer
fluid. You ca also test every windshield for Rain-X before starting the repair by placing a
drop or two of water on the windshield surface. If it beads and rolls, there is a hydrophobic
coating, most likely Rain-X. If the water rolls down and leaves a line of water then there is
none.

Additive- Directions for Stone break: The Additive (the smaller bottle) is easier and faster.
Mix one drop to 4-8 drops of resin in your injector and stir (a toothpick works best). Then do
the repair.

Additive - Directions for a crack: Mix one drop to four to five drops of resin, then do the
repair.
Pretreatment for a Stone-Break -This is the larger one ounce bottle. Place a d rop on the
impact point of the stone-break and flex the glass to help it seep into the break. Allow it to
evaporate and then do the repair. You can speed up evaporation with a heat-gun or hair dryer.

Pretreament for a Crack - This is the larger one ounce bottle. Drop into the entire length of the
crack by cappilary action and then allow to evapoarte. Use a heatgun or hair dryer to speed up
evaporation.

Purchase Price: One bottle of pre-treatment will decontaminate over 100 breaks. One bottle of
Additive will do 60 breaks. Don't lose another job to Rain-X !

CONCLUSION
As with most anything you do, the more you practice and perform actual repairs, the better
technician you will become. You may even develop a technique that works better for you.
You are encouraged to share your ideas, experiments and stories with your fellow technicians.

Good luck! You're on your way to controlling your own future.

REPAIR MORE..... MAKE MORE

This windshield repair manual is provided by Arrow Glass and is strictly about
windshield repair resin, tools, equipment and supplies.