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IKEA Power Charging Box with individual switches

by PROD on September 24, 2007

Table of Contents

License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Intro: IKEA Power Charging Box with individual switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

step 1: The Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

step 2: Installing the switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

step 3: The electrical wiring . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

step 4: Connecting the Power supplies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

step 5: Drilling the lid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

step 6: The final result . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

http://www.instructables.com/id/IKEA-Power-Charging-Box-with-individual-switches/
License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa)

Intro: IKEA Power Charging Box with individual switches

So the other day I saw this instructable on how to make an easy power station using an IKEA box:
The-IKEA-charging-box---no-more-cable-mess!

I definitely needed something similar, so I went and bought one of those boxes at IKEA, but it stood in my office for a couple of weeks. Last weekend I finally decided to
have a go at it. One major difference I wanted for my charging station: the ability to turn off each power supply individually instead of having all on while charging a single
device. That meant going to the electronic store and buy 4 switches (there were nicer models, but they didn't have 4 identical ones, so I just got these).

Total cost for the project: 11,24 Euros

Ikea box: 1,99 Euros

Ikea box lid: 1,25 Euros
4 switches: 4 x 1,00 Euros
4 plugs: 4 x 1,00 Euros

I believe I could have gotten the switches and plugs slightly cheaper if I had looked around.
The rest of the parts I had them at home. Should be fairly cheap ones anyway.

It's not absolutely finished. I still want to get a protective plastic part for the inside, just to prevent any accidental contact with the exposed connectors. Another possibility
is to just use heat-shrink tubing, although it might be difficult to completely cover the connectors next to the wall.
For now I just know that I shall only remove the lid "locks" after disconnecting the power plug.
In the end, still a fairly easy and cheap project.

step 1: The Parts

- The original IKEA box and lid
- 4 power plugs
- 4 electrical switches
- electrical wiring
- connectors and "joiners" (if someone can give me the correct names I'll edit this. My mother tongue is not English... You can see some pictures of these in the next
steps)

http://www.instructables.com/id/IKEA-Power-Charging-Box-with-individual-switches/
step 2: Installing the switches
After deciding on the right height position and dividing evenly the horizontal space, I marked the locations for the switches.

Using a cutter, I made the holes. Even if not perfectly cut, once inserted, the switch covers the sides and looks quite nice.

Here's how it looked:

step 3: The electrical wiring

Unfortunately the picture is quite dark, but hopefully you can still see how I connected the different parts.

Pretty much it's just the 4 plugs connected in parallel, each having it's own switch.

http://www.instructables.com/id/IKEA-Power-Charging-Box-with-individual-switches/
step 4: Connecting the Power supplies
Here's how it looks with the power supplies inside.

As you can see, the switch connectors are exposed. I still want to get a protective cover for all those parts, if not, just use heat-shrinking tubing. For now I just have to
remember to disconnect the main power supply before opening the box.

step 5: Drilling the lid

In order for the box to close properly I had to make some holes for the cables to come up on the top of the box.
I could have just drilled a circle in the middle of the lid, but thought it would occupy to much space.
Therefore I decided to cut some holes on the edge. Now this was probably the most difficult part of the project. Not only it is in rather difficult place to cut properly (at least
with the tools I had available), but it would also be showing.

After a first attempt just with the cutter, I ended up using my dremel to make it a bit better looking.
I'll have to take another picture from the opposite side in order to get a better view.

http://www.instructables.com/id/IKEA-Power-Charging-Box-with-individual-switches/
step 6: The final result
Works just as planned!

As I've mentioned before, I still want to get a protective cover or use heat-shrinking tubing for the inside electrical parts, and I'm still checking if it will require any
ventilation holes. So far it never got warm at all, but haven't had all the power supplies on for several hours for a proper test.

Related Instructables

Outlets of the
Charger box by The IKEA Charge box Easy Nickel Future aka in-
pral 2a studio charging box - (slideshow) by Cadmium wall USB
DIY Ikea box no more cable Battery Charger Fun with IKEA Make a Zen
wiedo Charger by
charging station mess! Very easy / Discharger by lamp by AP micro/USB wall
black by Kelltik to do by Digital light charger from a Hextor
Deutschmann
bluesman phone charger
by Cvesey

http://www.instructables.com/id/IKEA-Power-Charging-Box-with-individual-switches/
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 54 comments

ac7ss says: May 18, 2010. 11:58 PM REPLY

Good 'ible. Add ons that could be worked into it: Shaped indentions for chargees, sensors (photo/pressure/magnetic) and SCR to turn on/off the plug,
Indicator light for each item, small thermostatic fan perhaps. On some items, the plug could be mounted in such a way as to make it a 'drop in charger'. I
forsee making a modular system for myself (so that I can change to a new phone eventually.)

fgm2000 says: Apr 6, 2010. 8:01 AM REPLY

Hi... I seem to have trouble looking at your connection on how to parallel - can anyone send me a schematic or a good explanation on how to do this -
thanks!

afischer15 says: May 22, 2009. 4:19 AM REPLY

the "original Ikea box" is the SLUGIS box, correct?
The box is at this link:
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/66696910
and the lid:
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/26697110

BlackHatCracker says: Mar 27, 2009. 11:02 PM REPLY

Ok the correct term that you are looking for is Quick Connects. They come in I think 4 different sizes and according to wire size also. Maybe more depending
on what you are doing... Most are going to use the blue connectors.

ssdietsch says: Oct 22, 2008. 5:20 AM REPLY

how many devices do you have converting 220v (ac) to 5v (dc)? in this world where everything has a usb2 charging adapter i find that almost everything can
be charged through a usb hub - that's just one ac adapter or just your computer if it's on often enough. trust me, an online retailer has a usb charging adapter
even for your usb charging adapter.

christophor says: Oct 21, 2008. 6:44 AM REPLY

I love this idea. It would be even cooler in a wooden box or something that looks like furniture. My wife wouldn't let me get away with a white plastic box
unless I hide it. Then what's the point? LOL Great idea. Great job. Thanks for the inspiration!

nayanram says: Oct 20, 2008. 4:20 AM

(removed by author or community request)

christophor says: Oct 21, 2008. 6:42 AM REPLY

That link doesn't lead to the iPhone solar panel. Do you have another link? I'd like to see that.

jongscx says: Sep 24, 2007. 5:13 PM REPLY

How hard would it be to add an LED to show the state of the switch, like on/off... I know it's not that hard to just take a look at it, but hey: Everything is better
with LEDs. (it's a healthy obsession... really...) Now, another idea would be to 1) use close-cell foam and cut out a nest for each device, then 2) use a
pressure switch, so that it will only charge when the device is in the cradle, making it a smart-dock of sorts. you should probobly keep the front switches too,
so that you can prevent leeching when it's fully charged.

11010010110 says: Oct 18, 2008. 6:59 PM REPLY

there are switches with red and fake green (actually its red too) neon lamps inside maybe they can be changed to leds (of any color) if led can hold -310
v without damage but then its gonna flicker more

Padlock says: Oct 18, 2008. 8:09 PM REPLY

-310 volts? Where, in the world, did you get that?

rocketman221 says: Oct 18, 2008. 11:59 AM REPLY

I would recommend neon assemblies like these
they are made for line voltage and they would mount in the box nicely.
just connect one wire to neutral and the other to the hot line that goes to the outlet.

ChandraW says: Feb 3, 2008. 3:53 AM REPLY

I actually installed an LED on my tub so I could tell when I was full. I kept shorting out tho. boo :\

http://www.instructables.com/id/IKEA-Power-Charging-Box-with-individual-switches/
 Goodhart says: Nov 12, 2008. 6:06 PM REPLY
Sounds like an isolation problem :-)

PROD says: Sep 25, 2007. 9:10 AM REPLY

I did consider using LED ones, but the store did not have 4 identical ones. Additionally the ones I saw require an third electrical wire to be used, and I
didn't feel like it would justify the extra work. Actually there were some switches that would just have the top part painted in red, such that when they are
in the position as shown in the picture you see the red part (representing ON), and if you press the switch, the red part goes in, presumably off... I've
actually made my switches work the opposite way... On the other idea, wouldn't the cell foam be dangerous from a heat perspective? The pressure
switch would be cool though!

jongscx says: Sep 25, 2007. 4:40 PM REPLY

I don't think your devices would get that hot... cell-phones and mp3 at least. Maybe PDAs and PSP, haven't really run into that problem. What I was
getting at with the foam was to make a little nook for the device to sit in, Also, even if the box is moved around, the things on top will stay still...

Punkguyta says: Sep 24, 2007. 8:06 PM REPLY

Adding a led per switch probably wouldn't be difficult at all, a led and a big ass resistor added inline with the positive lead coming off the switch, I would
imagine it's that simple. Or even better yet, buy rocker switches with lights inside them.

jongscx says: Sep 25, 2007. 4:42 AM REPLY

I just realized they had switches with the light around the rim or in it and thwacked meself in the face. Now, how to make it shut off automatically...

PROD says: Sep 25, 2007. 9:12 AM REPLY

You just made me think of a version using kitchen timers in place of the switches... LOL

Punkguyta says: Sep 25, 2007. 6:29 AM REPLY

Connect a 24 hour wall timer to the wall and then plug the box into that, but that wouldn't work too well now would it? If you had more circuit
building skills, you could probably make an auto sensing circuit that would be able to tell when a charger stops drawing a certain amount of
current (which you could have an adjustable threshold).

jongscx says: Sep 25, 2007. 6:51 AM REPLY

I was thinking about how to do that easily, but couldn't think of any ways...

11010010110 says: Oct 18, 2008. 7:07 PM REPLY

charger heats more when charging - use thermal probe

Padlock says: Oct 18, 2008. 8:22 PM REPLY

(Correct me if I'm wrong,) A thermal probe would require a micro-controller, or a transistor that would have to be specifically tailored
for the job when the thermistor drops below/goes above the specified resistance. This would also be hard because most thermistors
are non-linear, so you would pretty much have to have a micro-controller. A much simpler solution (Again, I'm not sure if this will work
with every type of battery. It did with mine) would be to add a relay in line with the power cord, so when the battery (device) connects,
it closes the circut, turning on the relay. You would need a low voltage relay, and wouldn't work if your battery (device) is completely
dead, or cannot send its charge back out. This, (most likely) will only work with simple devices like NiMH batteries.I would not try this
with an iPhone, though.

11010010110 says: Oct 19, 2008. 5:17 AM REPLY

thermal probe from a fridge is electrically thing with 2 wires and thats all. its probe (metallic baloon on thin pipe that looks like wire)
is based on gas expansion in temperature and not electronics. it can be hacked to switch at high temperatures like 30 - 40 C with
the relay on battery - it should work for turn on (what my thing with the thermal probe does not) but you need to make it somehow
shut down on its own. without this the relay just continues to work on the charged battery + on the charger itself after you remove
the battery (unless its pulsing charger) it may affect battery charging - when battery becomes close to 90 - 100 % the charge
current drops and the relay current rises (with the voltage on the battery). if the currents become equal the battery wont charge
any higher above this point (all what the charger gives goes to the relay) what you could do reliably with relay is monitor the
current the chargers draw on the 240 V side. and still you need kind of start button as with the thermal probe i think the current
monitoring with relay is the best solution here

Padlock says: Oct 19, 2008. 10:10 AM REPLY

The "electrically thing" is a thermistor. True to its name, it is a resistor that changes resistance based on the temperature. It is
not based on gas expansion. It is based on the properties of a material having different resistance at different temperatures.
And it can not be hacked. You can not "hack" a piece of ceramic/polymer with two wires attached to it. And most chargers
these days have sensors that detect when the battery (device) is charged, so over-charging and explosions don't happen.

http://www.instructables.com/id/IKEA-Power-Charging-Box-with-individual-switches/
 11010010110 says: Oct 19, 2008. 10:24 AM REPLY
its not resistor. its mechanical on off switch its made like this : sealed baloon (the probe) is connected thru very thin pipe (1
mm external diameter) to pressure sensor. the pressure sensor is a mechanical electrical switch when temperature
changes at the probe (here is most of the trapped air located so its the most sesitive part) it changes the pressure of air (i
think its air) and the switch reacts as any switch its connected in series with the charger withou any additional electronics

rocketman221 says: Oct 18, 2008. 12:02 PM REPLY

I would recommend putting some ventilation slots in the box some of those adapters get quite hot.

cheeze69 says: Sep 24, 2007. 10:11 AM REPLY

Those crimp-on connectors are sometimes referred to as "quick disconnects" or just "male/female crimp connectors". They are commonly available (in the
US, at least) in home improvement stores and automotive parts stores. You can usually buy a low-end/low-cost bundle that has a cheap crimping tool and an
assortment of the connectors. You can also buy single boxes of just the male or female connectors (my preference since many of the connectors in the
starter kits are not that useful). This project is a neat idea - thanks for sharing. I might have to build something similar just so I can keep all my chargers and
stuff organized and get rid of the rats-nest of wires!

dchall8 says: Oct 18, 2008. 11:29 AM REPLY

In the US we use twist on wire connectors rather than crimps. I've always called them "wire nuts" but they probably go by other names.

technodude92 says: Sep 16, 2008. 6:28 PM REPLY

One suggestion though. I would recomend some isolation between the switch and mains(110, 120, 220, 240, ...) power. An optoisolator switching a relay
would be ideal but just a relay would suffice. The more between you and mains power, though, the better.

tinman01 says: May 11, 2008. 2:53 PM REPLY

Question for those with a greater knowledge of US AC power than I have. I would love to do something like this but I don't want to nuke my devices or burn
my house down. Is there a guide out there to help me design this, calculate load, heat generation, fusing etc?

technodude92 says: Sep 16, 2008. 6:20 PM REPLY

In the US, 2 wires supply 60hz 120 volts AC power. One of those wires is called "hot" and the other "neutral". The hot carries the actual AC voltage and
the neutral is the return(essentially ground). In polarized American power outlets, the wider slot is "neutral" and the other slot is "hot". When you choose
the cable that leads out of the box, make sure it is polarized. i.e. one blade wider than the other. That way, you can make sure you are wiring the internal
outlets correctly. The outlets you buy will most likely have the terminals marked so you know where to connect the wires. as far as fusing, most outlets in
the US are rated at 15 amps, which means you should divide 15 by the number of outlets you will have. For example, 15 amps for 4 outlets gives me
3.75 amps per outlet. I don't think fusing the individual outlets is necessary though and the outlet should have a breaker on it set to trip at 15 amps. If you
can keep you "hot" and "neutral" straight, you wont fry your devices. if your wall outlet was wired incorrectly, thats your electricians fault, not mine or
PROD's.

R4Man18 says: Feb 15, 2008. 3:38 AM REPLY

that must generate some heat. do you plan to use some fans to cool it or sit by it in the winter? cool idea, interesting idea.

turkey tek says: Sep 27, 2007. 2:28 PM REPLY

here is a nice discussion of how much power chargers use when not connected to a device:

phone chargers

i also highly recommend his online book:

Sustainable Energy - Without the Hot Air

for any one who is interested in learning facts about energy consumption and generation without the politics. written in the style and clarity than only a
professor of physics can muster. some real gems too, like how many kwh per day your cat consumes.

ChandraW says: Feb 3, 2008. 3:48 AM REPLY

WOW! That thread was really eye-opening. The way the local news story made it sound...I guess they just have to find SOMEthing to keep us worried
with each day, don't they

trebuchet03 says: Sep 29, 2007. 3:45 PM REPLY

Ha! I've been collecting long term data on phone chargers, laptop bricks, etc. etc. - all while not in use. I have similar results... The killawatt is going to
take a little longer to pay for itself :/

incorrigible packrat says: Nov 26, 2007. 7:22 AM REPLY

Do the connectors for the devices fall down through the holes in the lid, when not plugged into the device? If so, the installation of some sort of plastic
grommet would prevent this. Then the connector would just sit at the edge of the hole, when not in use. It might be a good plan anyhow, as the edge of the
holes in the lid could conceivably wear or cut the sheathing of the device cables. As for status indicator lights, I would eschew led's for neon bulbs (at least
for line voltage applications). They usually come equipped with a limiting resistor, don't use much more power than an led (probably less in this case, 'cause
you would need either a huge resistor or another transformer to step down the line voltage for an led), and they give off a cheery orange glow, that I find
aesthetically pleasing. I get all kinds of panel indicator lights off of defunct electric stoves. I also come across dandy power switches (some of them
illuminated) in plugged up drip coffee makers.

http://www.instructables.com/id/IKEA-Power-Charging-Box-with-individual-switches/
 sarahbopp says: Oct 5, 2007. 7:45 AM REPLY
http://www.shopgetorganized.com/prodetail~itemNo~22193.asp

I'm all about making stuff myself, but this might even be cheaper - it might be cheaply made too.

osvikvi says: Sep 28, 2007. 4:07 AM REPLY

Ok, it's a good idea, but what about heat? Some chargers can become verry hot and can cause the box to melt, or worse....

Punkguyta says: Sep 24, 2007. 8:07 PM REPLY

I think this is really neat, but I've never agreed with the whole electrical system you guys have over there, ya a giant two prong plug, I can imagine how nice it
is to step on one of those.

Vermin says: Sep 27, 2007. 5:19 PM REPLY

Totally agree. Australian/Pacific plugs are the sexiest. :)

PROD says: Sep 25, 2007. 9:03 AM REPLY

Why do you call it "giant"? It is pretty much the same size as a US one... Considering that the pins are round, if you were to step on one (assuming it
would be lying flat) you probably feel it less than a US one.

Rmg12 says: Sep 25, 2007. 8:20 AM REPLY

I'm in the UK our plugs are the best though 3 prongs - The french ones actually are 3 pronged 2 in the plug and the socket has a prong in but if the
device doesn't need earthing it doesn't use the socket prong.

Rmg12 says: Sep 25, 2007. 8:20 AM REPLY

oh yeah they aren't just french they are used in other eu countries

PROD says: Sep 25, 2007. 9:01 AM REPLY

It is not just in the EU. That type of plug is used around the world.

Look at http://www.search.com/reference/Domestic_AC_power_plugs_and_sockets for some images (the very first is the type you refer to), along
with some maps showing which plugs are used where.

Punkguyta says: Sep 25, 2007. 8:59 PM REPLY

Well the thing is like an inch wide, where as a US plug is half inch? So if it were standing on edge, and you stepped on it, it would hurt, or if
the prongs were sticking up. What's the point of having round prongs anyways?

jongscx says: Sep 25, 2007. 6:52 AM REPLY

yeah, personally, I'm for having a Giant buzzing Tesla coil in my neighborhood and transmitting energy wirelessly like that...

ChandraW says: Feb 3, 2008. 3:51 AM REPLY

omg i actually utubed tesla coils tonight just out of the blue. the thought that you could actually reproduce MUSIC with an electrical arc blew me away

edwardchen says: Sep 27, 2007. 2:23 PM REPLY

You could easily add a PIC to control the timing time, complete with LEDs. I'm thinking an 16F864, with a single throw, single pole switch for each device
connected to a 5v power source. Have the switches connected to the state change interrupts of the PIC that initiates the timer when it changes and notices
that the input is on. You could program in a certain time for the output, connected to a relay (through a transistor/protection diode, of course) controlling the
mains to your device. When it's done counting up, it disconnects the power. Cycling the power switch should start the timer again.

edwardchen says: Sep 27, 2007. 2:24 PM REPLY

Oh, yeah, and of course, you could have an LED indicating it is still charging :) But then again, adding a small 5v adapter would negate leaving one of
your adapters plugged in all the time (even though the PIC would draw very very little power, especially with a slow oscillator).

view all 54 comments

http://www.instructables.com/id/IKEA-Power-Charging-Box-with-individual-switches/