Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Apparel Export & Merchandising
Apparel Export & Merchandising
RAEBARELI
BATCH – 2023-25
Gaurishree Soni
Kunica Sharma
Rishika Ahuja
Table of Content
1.1. ABOUT THE COMPANY.............................................................................................................................................2
1.2. COMPANY OVERVIEW.....................................................................................................................................................3
1.3 ORGANIZATION STRUCTURE.................................................................................................................................8
Marketing merchandising.....................................................................................................................................................12
Product merchandising.........................................................................................................................................................12
A Merchandisers key responsibility are as follows: -............................................................................................................12
Department structure..........................................................................................................................................................13
Costing..................................................................................................................................................................................14
3.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT..............................................................................................................................................15
3.3. FABRIC SOURCING.........................................................................................................................................................17
3.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT..........................................................................................................................................19
3.5. FABRIC QC DEPARTMENT...............................................................................................................................................21
3.6. PLANNING DEPARTMENT..............................................................................................................................................22
3.7. LABORATORY DEPARTMENT..........................................................................................................................................23
3.8. MACHINE MAINTENANCE.............................................................................................................................................25
3.9. CAD ROOM....................................................................................................................................................................27
3.10. CUTTING ROOM..........................................................................................................................................................27
Constraints for Number Sealing garments:...........................................................................................................................37
1.17. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT.......................................................................................................................................40
1.18. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT.......................................................................................................................................40
1.19. WASHING DEPARTMENT..............................................................................................................................................41
1.20. QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT..........................................................................................................................44
1.21. FINISHING DEPARTMENT.............................................................................................................................................45
PREFACE
National Institute of Fashion Technology is a premier institute under Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of
India and is responsible for human resource development for apparel industry in India. Department
of Fashion Management Studies is imparting education in crucial areas of technology application in
marketing and exporting.
The assignment is aimed towards blending the classroom principles with industry application for
the students. This assignment helps to analyze day-to-day activities with the help of internees who
in turn will learn practical application of different principles and will be able to draw inferences.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Apart from our efforts, the success of this whole Assignment depended largely on the
encouragement and guidance of many others. We take this opportunity to express our gratitude to
the people who have been instrumental in the successful completion of the assignment and whose
contribution in assorted ways to the assignment deserves special mention.
We would like to express our immense gratitude and sincere appreciation to Shahi Exports PVT LTD
for giving us an opportunity to pursue our assignment on their highly esteemed
organization.
Also, we would like to thank our college mentor, Mr. Balu Maloth, Assistant Professor our course
coordinator Ms. Bharghavee for always being available to address any doubts. It is because of their
guidance and constant supervision that we have been able to collect and learn the required
information regarding our Assignment.
Words are inadequate in offering thanks to our parents and the Almighty God for their
encouragement in successful completion of the assignment. It would not have been possible
without the kind support and help of many individuals in the organization. Finally, we would like
to thank everybody who was important to the successful realization of this assignment, as well as
expressing an apology that we could not mention everyone here.
Thank You!
Sincerely,
Cheshta Juneja
Gaurishree Soni
Kunica Sharma
Rishika Ahuja
INTRODUCTION
Address (Unit-1) : Industrial Plot No. 1, near Metro Station, Sector 28,
Faridabad, Haryana 121008
Established in Delhi in 1974, Shahi Exports stand vertically integrated as one of the largest
manufacturers and Exporter in India, offering ready to wear garments for Ladies, Men and
Children. Faridabad operations began on 1974 with 250 associates and 104 machines. In the last
30 years it has expanded by 60 times, with 33 integrated State of Art production units. Factories
are equipped with State-of-the-art manufacturing technology automated machines, thereby
ensuring consistency and optimum efficiency. Shahi has invested resources in creating its own
fabric base for both woven and knits. Shahi has its own fabric dyeing and printing mill and knitting
facility. Shahi also offer widest choice of fabrics for garments mainly shirts with continuous fabric
Developments and Innovations through its own Design Studio.
Shahi, Faridabad is the Corporate Head Office and all the marketing merchandising functions are
done there. Industrial Plot No. 1, near Metro Station, Sector 28, Faridabad, Haryana 121008 INDIA
Marketing office located in NEW YORK ,USA will procure the indirect orders and sent it to the Delhi
office for execution, planning will be done for execution of the orders and the head office at Delhi
will allocate and distribute the orders to new Delhi or Bangalore production plants.
It has a training center for tailors at faridabad and banglore each to tarin and develop them into
vital human resource for efficient operations.As regards to quality, shahi has been ranked one of
the best in Asia by J.C Penny the world- renowned department stores.
Shahi has expanded by 200 times over the last 40 years. It has total 49 units out of which 39 are
in Faridabad. Current production capacity is 100million apparel per year. It is No 1 garment
exporter in India. At present it has 85000 associates among which 70% are women. Unit 1 of
Shahi in Bangalore was started in 2005 with 190 employees, which has now increased to 3700.
The organization works on a single ERP system, MOVEX, which unifies all the departments working
and leads to efficient functioning. This allows handling the manufacturing, logistics and
distribution, shipping, invoicing, and accounting for the company.
PRODUCTS MANUFACTURE:
1. Denim Jeans
2. Jeggings
3. Track pants
4. Trousers
5. Pajamas
Gap.
Decathlon.
Wal-Mart.
J C Penney.
Mexx.
Benneton.
Abercrombie & Fitch.
American eagle.
H & M.
Target.
Liz Caliborne.
Philips Van Heusen.
Polo Ralph Lauren.
Sears.
Esprit.
Tommy Hilfiger.
MISSION OF SHAHI EXPORTS
We are an organization of noble culture with competent human resources, multi products expertise
and continual process improvement, committed to delight customers by consistently delivering
high products on time.
Customer delight
Integrity and ethics
Respect for human values
Nurturing human talent
Continues improvement1
SOURCING:
They have more than 100 people in the team to monitor right from sampling, patterning and fabric
sourcing, design development & merchandising. Most of the staff are with minimum of 10-12 years
of experience. The factories are well equipped with quality control systems with each line
monitored by a QA supervisor who conducts all the inline and final inspections before offering to
the buyer QC for final inspection.
PRODUCTS:
AWARDS / ACHIEVEMENTS:
Factory Manager
Factory Manager
VP Operation General Manager
(MND) Operation
Factory Manager
O Factory Manager
CE Manager HR
Deputy Manager HR
General Manager
AGM HR Exe.Accounts
HR
Envernoment
Officer
Safety Officer
Administrational hierarchy
Factory
Manager
Cutting
Exe.Cuttin
Manager
Fabric
Exe.Fabric
Manager
An Organization structure is the outline of the company’s framework and guidelines for managing
business operations. Two types of organization structure are found in the business environment:
centralization and decentralization.
Centralization Organization structures rely on one individual to make decision and provide direction
for the company.
Decentralization organization structure often have several individuals responsible for making
business decisions and running the business. Decentralization organization rely on a team
environment at different levels of business. Individuals at each level in the business may have some
autonomy to make business decisions.
In Shahi certain departments work in centralized manner (Business intelligence, Accounts, HR)
while some other works in decentralized manner. Activities like salary, loan, advance are handled
by the head officer (unit 7-wovens division and unit 12-knit division), taking support from the
factory levels (HR and accounts). Also Marketing is centralized which is in unit 7 and unit 12. They
deal with the buyers, get orders, allocate the trims and fabric for various units. If there is any
shortage of trims or fabric in any unit, the stores department of that unit will directly contact to
unit 7 who in turn coordinate with the buyer. Decision regarding the order distribution is taken by
central planning, which distributes the order depending on the production capacity of various units.
The organization structure of SHAHI is of function structure type. In such type each portion of the
organization is grouped according to its purpose. For example, marketing department works with
associates who are specialized in marketing. This leads to operational efficiencies within that group.
As shown in the structure chart mainly there are two divisions one is operations and other is human
resource management. Under operations all the Fare included. All the activities related to human
resource like recruitment, welfare benefits, safety, grievance handling etc. comes under human
resource management. This department is the supporting department as they are not involved in
actual production but play a very important role in the smooth functioning of organization.
In garment factory the output of one department becomes the input for other department, so a
high level of coordination is required to produce better efficiency.
Functional areas may become distracted by their own goals and focus on them, rather than
on overall company objectives. For instance, there may be a desire by I.T. department to
implement a new, state of the art computer system, but the overall company objectives
support investment in new products instead. Since the unit doesn’t have an overview of the
entire company, it may focus attention on goals that it believes are important but which are
not priorities for top management
Functional areas may have difficulties working with other functional areas. There is often a
perception that they are competing with other functional area for resources and a lack of
understanding of what other areas do for the company.
FINISHING FINISHING
PACKAGING
QUALITY CHECK DEPARTMENT
3.1. MERCHANDISING
Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and
presented to the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product
line from start to finish. Marketing and merchandising department: A team of
merchandisers and marketers work together under a profit controls head. Merchandisers
handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made according to the buyers being handled.
Two type of merchandising done in Shahi Exports
Marketing merchandising.
Product merchandising.
Marketing merchandising
Product Development
Costing
Ordering
Product merchandising
Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from
sourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and
ends till shipment.
Product Development
Booking orders
Confirming Deliveries
Costing
Raw Material
Flow Monitoring
Payments Follows
Department structure
MARKETING MERCHANDISER
HEAD MERCHANDISER
SENIOR MERCHANDISE
JUNIOR MERCHANDISER
The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the
cost of production before the buyer sends on his PO. During the per-development stage an
initial costing occurs to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece.
These costs include general raw material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup
cost etc. Once the production sample is approved and the grading done a final costing is
done accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost of trims etc.
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled and makes a
complete make through garment. This department makes samples on the basis of
specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.
TYPES OF SAMPLES
Proto Sample
Fit Sample
Pilot Run Sample
Pre-Production Sample
Pre Size Set
Size Set
Garment Package Test Sample
Show Room Sample
TOP Sample
Shipment Sample
Counter Sample
Sales. Sample
Machine Details
Their are a total of 80 machines in the sampling department:
5 Cutting Tables
8 Pattern Making Table
1 Conveyor Belt Fusing Machine
FINISHING MACHINES
1 Ironing Tables
1 Shirt Folding Machine
OTHER MACHINES
SNLS machine
DNLS machine
Bar tack machine
Overlock machine
Kansai Special
Zigzag Lockstitch machine
Blind stitch machine
and others
The Details Attached to the Garment Sample
After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details
attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the
buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc. they have used (if applicable).
Reference Number
Color
Fabric
Composition
Description
Quantity
Style Number
Size
Store
3.2. FABRIC SOURCING
Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
merchandise i.e. fabric will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising
department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time
and cost. A fabric sourcer must have a knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to
execute their function effectively.
FABRIC STORE:
Examples of certain Mills that specializes in some particular types of fabric is as follow:
STORAGE
Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in two areas
(a)Checked fabric and (b) Unchecked fabric. Such a system maintenance of the store makes
it easy to locate the fabric whenever needed in future.
FABRIC SOURCING
Order placed
If accepted
Relocation in store
The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference
is that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing
department works for sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working
procedure is the same. The working is as follows.
The merchandisers give the tech pack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular
style to the purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further
process and for costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the
production and also the price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete
procedure involved for its production. In the process of doing the in-house price ,
suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button is Rs.32 then a CST of 2% + 14% of exercise duty
+ 10% of per unit price is added as the transportation charges and this all together makes
the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5% is also taken into consideration).
This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing
purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is confirmed by the
buyer based on the cost sheet given by the merchandiser.
After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other
concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the
trims and accessories with respect to color, size, MOQ, etc., will be given by the
merchandiser to the purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally
followed in the industry for all the orders irrespective of the buyer.
Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent to the
concerned department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw
materials is sent by the supplier then the lab dips is done and is approved by the buyer.
In case of getting the accessories and trims for the sampling purposes then only a small
quantity, say about 100 – 200 pieces are ordered and the supplier charges the minimum
amount or sometimes gives it free of cost.
After receiving the goods from the supplier, they are checked for the quantity and also
checked according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of
them are not meeting this criterion. This department also keeps in track of all the
quantities received in-house timely. The goods are generally received in breakups as
suggested by the merchandiser according to the requirements stated by the planning and
the production department and this breakups will have specified date and quantity and if
this breakups is not being mentioned then the order is being placed with the supplier
several times for small quantities and PO’s have to be sent all the time so, in order to
overcome this a breakups are being given.
Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and
when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular style and
then the department also has to maintain the receipts and also they have to maintain the
documents of the inspections that are being carried out for those materials.
The communication between the merchandiser and the purchase department happens
mainly through phone calls but no matter however small the situation is, both the
departments maintain an e-mail also i.e., along with the phone call they send an e-mail
also. Communication between the supplier and the purchase department happens purely
through e-mails. All these e- mails, receipts, PO’s, PI’s, Formats, Order formats, etc., are
maintained as a hard copy also.
The fabric audit department for the woven division of SEPL is centralized. It is at unit –
1. The main objectives of this department are:
FABRIC INSPECTION
In SEPL, four-point grading system is followed in the fabric audit department. All fabrics
are inspected under the 4-point inspection system. Penalty points are assigned based on
the standard fault size for every type of fault and colored stickers are then put for the
identification of serious defects in the subsequent process.
Fault description under the 4-point inspection system:
Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps the
merchants to determine the costing of a particular style and they also tell the merchants
if the company is capable of producing the particular style in the given span of time and
also helps them to know the capacity of the production floor.
On receiving the orders, from the merchants they start to decide the date for having the
PP (Pre-Production) meeting with the departments which are directly involved which are,
planning, production and the finishing departments. Then the department will allocate
the style to the unit whichever has the capacity of completing the obtained project based
on the line openings and also buyer’s specifications and the skill of labor required for it.
The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Plan Cut Date), Order
Quantity, Sample, order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular
unit in which that particular order has been placed with.
The planning department takes the approval or sits and conducts a meeting with three
other departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling dates for
the particular style this will take about 10 – 15 days from the merchandiser approves the
order that has to be followed.
Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity
based on the garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of
components in the garment, type of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment,
types of machines required to finish the garment, any specialized machine is required or
not for the manufacturing of the garment, difficulties involved during stitching of the
garment if it is of a complicated style and structure, the skill level required for the various
operations of the garment and the ratio of the operators with respect to their skill levels
required for manufacturing the particular garment for all the operations all together.
Then they finally come to a conclusion about planning entire style.
Secondly, they confirm the details given to the concerned units i.e., they confirm the
PCD, Order quantity, sample and other similar information from them in consultation
with the GM and FM.
Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision and then they also get a
confirmation from the embroidery, washing and finishing departments if the slots for the
dates on which they have planned for those particular styles is available and then after
confirmation they fix the particular dates on which the style has to reach the embroidery,
washing and finishing departments.
After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper confirmation
obtained from the departments the planning department will confirm the order plan
with the merchants and then provide MIS (Management Information System) report to
the management every fortnight, then they prepare a “Batch Commitment Sheet” and
this sheet is prepared about 3 – 5 days before the cutting date. This commitment sheet
includes the details regarding the batch that has taken up the job of producing the
particular style, the quantity which they are committed to produce for a day and the
labor details (which involves the number of operators and to which operation they are
assigned to and they skill level will also be mentioned). This sheet will have to be updated
once in a hour to know the hourly production of the batch.
Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a ‘Batch Variance Sheet”,
this sheet is completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this sheet the
updating of the style in the production floor is done and is given to the merchants on
daily basis.
Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the order is completely
being executed and the entire order quantity is being shipped.
The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the raw materials to the
production floor and they must make sure that none of the days the batch /sewing line
must sit idle with a reason of raw material non-availability.
The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of the departments like the
IED, Finishing, Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within the
different departments is done purely on the mail basis and sometimes through phone
calls but any types of mails regarding the changes in the line of the style or any such
modifying sort of a situation then the department maintains a hard copy of it for the
future reference and confirmation.
Count
Construction
Color fastness to washing
Color fastness to crocking
Dimensional stability to washing
Fabric strength
Fabric weight
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:
The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests
which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The
garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as
per the buyer specifications.
After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment fabric
samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer
specifies.
Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a
fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally
send it in a format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of
the particular material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, color
and other material related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out
the tests.
The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like:
Types of tests.
Urgency of the task.
Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally.
Duration of the tests that has to be carried out.
Time required in getting the proper and the required output.
Number of samples that has to be tested.
Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from any
of the departments, they generally proceed on priority bases. If the results are required
very soon and the tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular
sample is taken first and then tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample
received involves more number of tests and
tests which involve long processing then such tests takes time about 2 – 3 days and then
after receiving the proper output they note down the readings in the record and then
send it the concerned department form where they have got it.
Apart from having quality system and the best practices,’ machine maintenance’ is also a
very important, to get ‘quality’ products. Unacceptable quality of products often results
ill- maintained machines. Breakdown and preventive maintenance are primarily aimed
toward reduced downtime and increased life respectively. Proper machine maintenance
is also necessary to avoid casualties at the floor. The function of PREVENTIVE
MAINTENANCE includes;
- straight needle
SHAHI EXPORTS has its own CAD department for varied style garments are made with help of Optitex
software package.
BASIC WORKFLOW
Firstly, the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:
Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.
Graded measurement spec sheet.
Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form (open roll or tubular form),
tube size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.
Then the work of the CAD room begins.
Cutting is a process of separating parts form the fabric as replicas of the pattern pieces
BASIC WORK FLOW
Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production manager. Cutting
order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of styles, from the spreads.
It comes in form of a package file that carries the following details:
Sampling average, weight of garment ( base fabric consumption only ), other trims
averages.
Measurement sheet
Design worksheet of the garment
Purchase order
Fabric requisition sheet
CAD mini marker
Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be
cut.
SOLID CUTTING
SPREADING
Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a manner, which
permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components acceptable for assembly. For this,
first of all a thin brown paper sheet is pasted on the cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the
bottom plies from shifting during cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of
first fabric layer on this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.
The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine. While
manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine gives faster and more accurate
results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality of the fabric & length of the marker as specified
by the CAD. Whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the
machine.
Ground Floor
Spreading:
1. 6am to 2pm
2. 2pm to 10pm
3. 10pm to 6am
Spreading is a process during which fabric is cut in pieces of certain length and the pieces placed one above
another in many plies. The length of the cut fabric ply is determined by the shape, size and number of the
components to be cut from it. Spreading also involves placing layers (or plies) of fabric on top of one
another. The number of plies in a spread is dependent on the number of articles required and the technical
limits of the fabric spreading and cutting processes
1. Manual-
Five manual processes are there.
Number of workers in each manual spreading process- minimum 2 and maximum 3.
After each lay of the fabrics are spread according to the instructed length of the lay it is cut with
the help of electric cutting motors which are controlled by the employees themselves.
After spreading the fabrics according to the requirements, if any extra fabrics are left (called
end bits) are folded and kept in the end bits storage area. They are used later in re-cutting
section.
Once the spreading is completed for a particular style type the marker sheet is spread on top it.
The marker is designed by the cad department.
2. Automatic-
One automatic spreading machine is present in the industry.
Maximum 2 workers are involved in the automatic spreading method.
The spreading details are fed in the software of the machine and accordingly the it works.
Machine company- Eastman.
Machine model- ES-1800W
CUTTING
The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or CAM m/c. The
machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker and the reciprocating blade
cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are also added. For smaller components like collars,
ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device,
which cuts the fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are
cut.
Spread
Place marker
BLOCK CUTTING
Jacquard, stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreading machine due to requirements of
matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks are spread and cut in
single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time, matching the stripes with those in the
previous plies. Then block are cut out from this spread for specific number of pieces. The size of the
block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini marker for the cutting of the blocks from
the lay and placement of the patterns on the blocks. Accordingly the cut blocks are manually marked on
the top with marking chalk and using the hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to the
match the stripes and a rough cutting of the fabric following the markings of the pattern is done. The cut
shapes are again checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs to
finish the patterns.
Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved are also more due
to cutting in two stages.
Spread
Match
Mark blocks
Match
Mark patterns
Cut pattern
match
The main purpose of cutting section involves cutting of garment panels precisely, consistent with the
pattern shape and size as well as economically and in a necessary volume to keep the sewing department
supplied with work.
1. Manual-
There are two tables for manual cutting.
In manual cutting the workers cuts the patterns according to the markers manually.
The workers use straight knife to cut the patterns
The workers also wear chain gloves which allows them to stop the knives at random places as
required.
Straight knife details:
Company- Eastman
Model- Blue Streak II
10A; 220V
2. Automatic:
The automatic machine used by Shahi Exports Unit 1 is Eastman ES-1800W Laser Cutting Machine.
There are also two vacuum tables for automatic cutting but there is only one cutting machine.
The vacuum tables used in the Eastman Laser Cutting Machine enables easy movement of the
fabrics.
With the help of this machine, the patterns are cut according to the program fed in the Eastman Pro
software.
A cellophane sheet is spread onto the fabric to make the lays tight enough, in order to avoid the
sliding of the lays while cutting.
We may or may not require to manually separate the cut part
The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one garment size are
bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two different bolts (bundles) of
fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to- bolt variations in the color shade.
The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade
matching precision, and sequence identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the
ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece
number and serves as important means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to
end.
Bundling:
1.13. NUMBERING:
Numbering refers to printing number on the garment pieces by means of ink or stamping machine to
identify the garment panels to be stitched together.
Which will fold inside and hide the inked number: Example – bottom hem of a shirt’s front panel
Which will go inside another panel: Example: Edge of sleeve that will go inside cuff
Permanent numbering: stickers may fall off the garment creating confusion in sewing line, leading to
reduced efficiency and quality
Time saving: time taken to remove and re-paste the sticker is saved.
No sticker stain marks on the garment.
Constraints for Number Sealing garments:
There are three constraints that determine whether number sealing on garments can be done or not:
Visibility – The colour of fabric may camouflage the number sealed. There are different colours of
ink available like white, silver, black, red, yellow and green hence before inking, the colour of ink
should be appropriately chosen based on visibility. If any of the colour is not visible number sealing
garments cannot be done.
Transparency – If the ink is not completely hidden after the inked area has been covered by another
layer of fabric.
Absorbency – Some fabric will absorb more and hence when inked, the numbers will spread and
smudge making them unreadable. Sealing cannot be done on highly hydrophobic and hydrophilic
fabrics. Silicon coated fabrics pose a problem as they can be either hydrophobic or hydrophilic.
2. Labelling-
Layer numbering is another numbering processes which takes place after cutting a marker.
It is the process of stick the stickers on garment component for identification and tracking
purpose.
In this process, each garment component is marked with a serial number of the layer in the
cut. These serial numbers are printed on labels which are stuck to the fabric cut panels.
This method is done on non-denim fabrics and it is a manual method.
1.14. CUT PANEL AND CHECKING
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual piece for any
objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size, incorrect shape and
any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not within the acceptable quality
parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component checking report is filled for the total
quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and an equal number of fresh
panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same number as the rejected ones.
Other mendable faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted out
during garment finishing or washing.
Once all the panels have been numbered, they are sent to the panel checking section where each of
the fabric cut and numbered panels are checked manually.
The checking is done on the basis of the buyer name, style number, colour or shade of the fabrics,
date etc.
They check whether the panels are cut properly or whether there any kind of defects.
1.15. BUNDLING
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using ties. The size
of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will contain pieces of the
same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount required by the production
department when asked for.
Most of the sewing rooms use the bundling system, where small batches of garments move from one
workstation to another in a controlled manner. In order to prepare the cut work, it is essential for
operators to be able to identify each pile. This is the function of the marker, if used, as the style number,
the size and the part identification will be part of the plot. If markers are not used, a top-ply labelling
system is required.
NOTE- After the pieces are cut, they are bundled together according to the cut number (cut number
denotes an entire style of fabric that has been spread and cut). Later the bundles are kept on racks from
where they are moved to the numbering section.
1.16. EMBROIDERY
The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for embroidery as
stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and follow up these departments
accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent are sent for embroidery, which are re- cut after receiving back. To
avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same size are stitched together temporarily before
dispatch for the embroidery.
The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular line
for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of the
operators.
The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular line
for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of the
operators.
The embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the particular style
demands. The embroidery section is the centralized and the second largest embroidery unit in
Asia.
The embroidery section receives the garment, style and the embroidery details from the
merchandisers in the form of the hard copy format which is generally maintained in company, the
department will maintain the file for all the formats received and they will also get a sample of the
garment on which the embroidery has been already done and they will use this as their reference
sample / piece.
As soon as the department receives the details they check the design that has to be done and they
scan the design using the CAD software and then they digitize the design and check for the
number of stitches involved, area the design has to cover, the style of the stitch involved for the
design, thread colors required, thread tax, starting point of the design on the garment while
performing the operation etc., all these things are calculated and tabulated in the softcopy format
and give to the merchandiser and after an approval from them they start the further operation .
After the design has been finalized then they do the embroidery for the samples that has to be
produced to the buyer, these samples are done for about 6 – 7 garments and it is something done
against the actual or exact order quantity. After the samples have been generated then they
conduct the pilot run in the embroidery section.
Once the order has been confirmed and the exact order quantity that has to be produced is
known then they start the bulk production during the production the embroidery action on the
garment is done in two ways one is after the entire garment has been sewn and the other case is
after the garment panels has been cut and before sewing them into a complete garment.
WASHING DEPARTMENT
2. practice and sometimes the usage of the dyes depends on the fabric and the buyer
demands and requirements.
3. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments are taken to the
washing process. There are different types of washing procedures involved and they
are classified as follows,
Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry
Softener wash
Desize wash
Enzyme wash
Stone enzyme wash
Rubber ball wash
Denim wash
Bleach wash
Tinting/ T- staining
4. Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand for dyeing so at
such situations they are sent directly to the washing process from the dry processing
stage or else the original procedure that is followed in the company is that first the
garments are sent to the dry processing and then from there to the wet processing
where it is first sent to the dyeing and then to the washing process.
5. After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro extraction where in
which a specified lot of garments are put into the hydro extracting machine
depending on the tumbler capacity and then the excess of water which had
accumulated in the previous stages will be extracted by compressing the garment with
the optimum pressure that has to be used for that particular style / garment.
6. Then the garments are dried using the drier. After the garments are dried they are
inspected by the inspection people and the inspection here is random it does not
involve any organized way, any garment
7. from the entire lot is randomly selected and inspected according to the criteria that
will be specified to them by the merchandiser.
8. Once the inspection is over the garments are sent to the finishing and the packing
section or sometimes if the garments has to be attached with some accessories or
trims after the washing and dyeing stages then such styles are sent to the production
floor to finish the left over job on them and then sent to the finishing and the packing
department.
9. The washing department in this unit (Unit – 7) is the centralized one for the units
located in Bangalore and its surrounding areas so the washing unit will be receiving
the garments from different units for the washing purposes hence this department
has to keep in track of the garments, quantity of the garments received, processes
that has to be carried out for them, the stage in which they are, duration required for
the process to be finished for the garments according to the types of the washes
prescribed for them, etc., hence this department maintains a record in which they fill
in the details of the garment style number, PO number, item number, quantity
received and the day and date of recieval. The department maintains these details
both in the soft as well as in the hard copy format. The department will enter the
details in the MOVEX. Whenever the washing unit receives or delivers the garment lot
from the different units then the communication is mainly through the e-mails and
also phone calls.
Pre-production audit:
Cutting audit:
Sewing audit:
Button/button hole:
1.21. FINISHING DEPARTMENT
Semi – pressing: This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the crushes manner as
it comes from the washing department hence, they do a partial pressing for the garments and
then inspect it and trim it and then send it to the complete pressing process.
Pressing: The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected and the
garments are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during packing.
Tagging section: Once the garments are been done with the inspection and complete pressing
then they are sent for tagging the labels and the labels include the size labels, price tags and
miscellaneous labels if any required by the buyer. Once the tagging is done the garments are
folded according to the buyer’s specification and also they are either folded plainly or
sometimes they are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the buyer’s specifications
again.
The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to be put in are all
suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these specifications.
Packing:
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the packing of the
garments they are as follows,
Solid Packing:
In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single color and same size.
Mixed Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of different colors but of same size or garments
with different colors and different sizes in a particular ratio form.
After the packing is done the garments are kept in the go down/stores until the buyer sends the buyer QC
for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives, he will check them according to
the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments has to be accepted or rejected
MANAGER
DEPUTY MANAGER
ASSISSTANT
MANAGER
SENIOR EXCUTIVE
EXCUTIVE
JR.EXCUTIVE
HR ASSISTANT
Training
Compensation &
HR Benefits
Y Welfare
OR
Exit Formalities
CT
FA Compliance
Industrial relation
Public relation
Administration
Job of factory HR
SALARY CRITERIA
There are skilled and semi-skilled and unskilled workers in the organization and they are paid according to
their ability and qualification and with consideration of the government regulation. Increment is given to
every worker on the average of 12%. Gratuity is given after
5 years of work experience of the worker. Each and every worker is provided an ATM card but for the new
employee the first month salary is given in cash.
SWOT ANALYSIS
STRENGTHS
Well Established.
Availability of Low cost and Skilled Manpower provides competitive
advantage to industry.
It works on customer specification, satisfying the customer needs.
Works in a professional way.
The company has large and diversified segments that provide wide variety of
products.
Satisfied customers.
WEAKNESSES
Employee absenteeism is high.
Cost of maintenance is high.
Lack of commitment among workmen.
OPPORTUNITIES
Emerging Retail Industry and Malls provide huge opportunities for the
Apparel, Handicraft and other segment of the industry.
Focusing on markets other than US & Europe.
Increased Disposable Income and Purchasing Power of Indian Customer open
new domestic Markets.
India is a major exporter of garments, providing high growth rate for garment
industries.
Continuous Quality Improvement is need of the hour as there are different
demand patterns all over the world.
The company maintains global standards to face global competition.
Availability of funds for up gradation of technology.
Hiring new talents.
THREATS
Competition from other developing countries, especially China.
Change in Economic environment.
Changing Technology.
52
REFERENCES
53
1
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile_industry_in_India
https://shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in/bitstream/10603/42500/2/saukat%20ansari%20thesis.pdf
https://www.shahi.co.in/
https://www.slideshare.net/smadival/shahi-e
http://www.yourarticlelibrary.com/production-management/production-planning/production-planning-and-
control-10-functions/57433
https://www.careerexplorer.com/careers/merchandiser/
http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/sampling-department-responsibilities/
https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/cutting-department-garment-industry.html
https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2015/10/functions-of-production-department-in.html
http://ordnur.com/apparel/job-responsibilities-of-quality-manager-in-apparel-industry/
https://www.whatissixsigma.net/acceptable-quality-level/
https://apparelcosting.blogspot.com/2017/06/clothing-packaging-types-method.html
https://www.businessmanagementideas.com/industries/duties-and-organisation-of-maintenance-department/
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