EXPORT MERCHANDISING

Department of Fashion Management Studies

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,

RAEBARELI

BATCH – 2023-25

SUBMITTED TO: SUBMITTED BY:

Mr. Balu Maloth Aishwarya Urmila Mohapatra

Assistant Professor Cheshta Juneja

Gaurishree Soni

Kunica Sharma

Rishika Ahuja

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 Table of Content
1.1. ABOUT THE COMPANY.............................................................................................................................................2
1.2. COMPANY OVERVIEW .................................................................................................................................................... 3
1.3 ORGANIZATION STRUCTURE ................................................................................................................................ 8
Marketing merchandising ............................................................................................................................................ 12
Product merchandising ................................................................................................................................................ 12
A Merchandisers key responsibility are as follows: - ...................................................................................................12
Department structure ..........................................................................................................................................................13
Costing ......................................................................................................................................................................... 14
3.2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT..............................................................................................................................................15
3.3. FABRIC SOURCING .........................................................................................................................................................17
3.4. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT......................................................................................................................................... 19
3.5. FABRIC QC DEPARTMENT...............................................................................................................................................21
3.6. PLANNING DEPARTMENT.............................................................................................................................................. 22
3.7. LABORATORY DEPARTMENT.......................................................................................................................................... 23
3.8. MACHINE MAINTENANCE ............................................................................................................................................ 25
3.9. CAD ROOM ....................................................................................................................................................................27
3.10. CUTTING ROOM ..........................................................................................................................................................27
Constraints for Number Sealing garments: ..................................................................................................................37
1.17. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT.......................................................................................................................................40
1.18. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT....................................................................................................................................... 40
1.19. WASHING DEPARTMENT............................................................................................................................................. 41
1.20. QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT.......................................................................................................................... 44
1.21. FINISHING DEPARTMENT............................................................................................................................................ 45

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PREFACE

National Institute of Fashion Technology is a premier institute under Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of
India and is responsible for human resource development for apparel industry in India. Department
of Fashion Management Studies is imparting education in crucial areas of technology application in
marketing and exporting.

The assignment is aimed towards blending the classroom principles with industry application for
the students. This assignment helps to analyze day-to-day activities with the help of internees who
in turn will learn practical application of different principles and will be able to draw inferences.

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Apart from our efforts, the success of this whole Assignment depended largely on the
encouragement and guidance of many others. We take this opportunity to express our gratitude to
the people who have been instrumental in the successful completion of the assignment and whose
contribution in assorted ways to the assignment deserves special mention.

We would like to express our immense gratitude and sincere appreciation to Shahi Exports PVT LTD
for giving us an opportunity to pursue our assignment on their highly esteemed
organization.

Also, we would like to thank our college mentor, Mr. Balu Maloth, Assistant Professor our course
coordinator Ms. Bharghavee for always being available to address any doubts. It is because of their
guidance and constant supervision that we have been able to collect and learn the required
information regarding our Assignment.
Words are inadequate in offering thanks to our parents and the Almighty God for their
encouragement in successful completion of the assignment. It would not have been possible
without the kind support and help of many individuals in the organization. Finally, we would like
to thank everybody who was important to the successful realization of this assignment, as well as
expressing an apology that we could not mention everyone here.

Thank You!
Sincerely,

Aishwarya Urmila Mohapatra

Cheshta Juneja

Gaurishree Soni

Kunica Sharma

Rishika Ahuja

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INTRODUCTION

1.1. ABOUT THE COMPANY

Name of the Company : SHAHI EXPORT PVT. LTD. (UNIT-7A) Year

of Establishment : Jan, 2006, Shahi (woven) Unit-7A

1974 (Faridabad), 1988 (Bangalore)

No. of Units : Delhi & NCR -14, Bangalore- 25 (19Woven’s+6 Knits)

Managing Director : Mr. Harish Ahuja

Type of Organization : Pvt. Ltd. Export Oriented

Annual Turnover (All units) :

Rs1500.Crore

Total Workforce (Unit-1) : 1K

Total Batch/Lines (Unit-1) : 26

Capacity (Unit-1) : 1.5 lakh Pcs /Month (Approx.)

Address (Unit-1) : Industrial Plot No. 1, near Metro Station, Sector 28,
Faridabad, Haryana 121008

Other locations of Shahi include:

 Faridabad.  Hyderabad.
 Delhi-NCR.  Salem.
 Bangalore.  Tripura.
 Mysore.  Baglur.
 Shimoga.  Tumkur.
 Madura

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 1.2. COMPANY OVERVIEW

Established in Delhi in 1974, Shahi Exports stand vertically integrated as one of the largest
manufacturers and Exporter in India, offering ready to wear garments for Ladies, Men and
Children. Faridabad operations began on 1974 with 250 associates and 104 machines. In the last
30 years it has expanded by 60 times, with 33 integrated State of Art production units. Factories
are equipped with State-of-the-art manufacturing technology automated machines, thereby
ensuring consistency and optimum efficiency. Shahi has invested resources in creating its own
fabric base for both woven and knits. Shahi has its own fabric dyeing and printing mill and knitting
facility. Shahi also offer widest choice of fabrics for garments mainly shirts with continuous fabric
Developments and Innovations through its own Design Studio.

Shahi, Faridabad is the Corporate Head Office and all the marketing merchandising functions are
done there. Industrial Plot No. 1, near Metro Station, Sector 28, Faridabad, Haryana 121008 INDIA
Marketing office located in NEW YORK ,USA will procure the indirect orders and sent it to the
Delhi office for execution, planning will be done for execution of the orders and the head office at
Delhi will allocate and distribute the orders to new Delhi or Bangalore production plants.

It has a training center for tailors at faridabad and banglore each to tarin and develop them into
vital human resource for efficient operations.As regards to quality, shahi has been ranked one of
the best in Asia by J.C Penny the world- renowned department stores.

Centralized department rendering service to all the units in Faridabad

Production
 Accessories store
 Washing department
 Embroidery department
 Cutting department
 Laboratory
 Fabric inspection department
Service
 Sourcing department
 Accounts department
 Documentation department
 Personnel department

Shahi has expanded by 200 times over the last 40 years. It has total 49 units out of which 39 are
in Faridabad. Current production capacity is 100million apparel per year. It is No 1 garment
exporter in India. At present it has 85000 associates among which 70% are women. Unit 1 of
Shahi in Bangalore was started in 2005 with 190 employees, which has now increased to 3700.

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The organization works on a single ERP system, MOVEX, which unifies all the departments working
and leads to efficient functioning. This allows handling the manufacturing, logistics and
distribution, shipping, invoicing, and accounting for the company.

There are different Strategic Business Units in Shahi Exports as follows:

 LSD - Ladies Specialty Division
 LFD - Ladies Fashion Division
 LDD - Ladies Dress Division
 MNB - Men’s and Boys’ Divisio

PRODUCTS MANUFACTURE:

Unit 1 focuses on the following products:

1. Denim Jeans
2. Jeggings
3. Track pants
4. Trousers
5. Pajamas

Other units product are:

1. Tops casual wear
2. Dress shirts
3. Denim wear
4. Wrinkle free shirts and blouses

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 5. Bottoms casual wear
6. Ladies /Men’s shirt
7. Polo
8. Hoody
9. Crew neck
10. Cargo shorts
11. Night wear
12. Fleece jacket

SHAHI’S CLIENT AT USA AND EUROPE:

 Gap.
 Decathlon.
 Wal-Mart.
 J C Penney.
 Mexx.
 Benneton.
 Abercrombie & Fitch.
 American eagle.
 H & M.
 Target.
 Liz Caliborne.
 Philips Van Heusen.
 Polo Ralph Lauren.
 Sears.
 Esprit.
 Tommy Hilfiger.

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MISSION OF SHAHI EXPORTS

 Be the most preferred competitive global supplier of apparel.

 Be the most preferred employer in the industry.
 Be a learning organization to improve and excel.

QUALITY POLICY OF SHAHI EXPORTS

We are an organization of noble culture with competent human resources, multi products expertise and
continual process improvement, committed to delight customers by consistently delivering high products
on time.

QUALITY OBJECTIVES OF SHAHI EXPORTS

 Delivering quality products on time

 Increasing productivity
 Continual improvement
 Employee development

VALUES OF SHAHI EXPORTS

 Customer delight
 Integrity and ethics
 Respect for human values
 Nurturing human talent
 Continues improvementi

SOURCING:

 Multi location product driven sourcing.

 Shanghai: Bottoms weight fabrics.
 Mills such as Winnitex, Able leader, Amhot, Bondex and many more
 India: Indian bottom weight fabrics and light weight fabrics – Arvind, Vardhaman, Ashima, Nahar,
Baird Mcnutts India, and other mills from South India for Madura fabrics checks and stripes.
 Pakistan: Nishat Mills, Sapphire Mills.
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SUPERVISION AND MONITORING:

They have more than 100 people in the team to monitor right from sampling, patterning and fabric
sourcing, design development & merchandising. Most of the staff are with minimum of 10-12 years of
experience. The factories are well equipped with quality control systems with each line monitored by a QA
supervisor who conducts all the inline and final inspections before offering to the buyer QC for final
inspection.

PRODUCTS:

 Chino shorts and pants

 Cargo shorts and pants
 Lounge pants
 Cargo skirts

AWARDS / ACHIEVEMENTS:

 President of India Award

 Awards from Apparel Export Promotion Council (New Delhi)
 Supplier of the year award from Wal-Mart
 Canara Bank Award
 Industrial Architectural Building Award

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ORGANIZATION STRUCTURE

Administrational hierarchy

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1.3.1 ORGANIZATION DESIGN

An Organization structure is the outline of the company’s framework and guidelines for managing business
operations. Two types of organization structure are found in the business environment: centralization and
decentralization.

Centralization Organization structures rely on one individual to make decision and provide direction for the
company.

Decentralization organization structure often have several individuals responsible for making business
decisions and running the business. Decentralization organization rely on a team environment at different
levels of business. Individuals at each level in the business may have some autonomy to make business
decisions.

In Shahi certain departments work in centralized manner (Business intelligence, Accounts, HR) while some
other works in decentralized manner. Activities like salary, loan, advance are handled by the head officer
(unit 7-wovens division and unit 12-knit division), taking support from the factory levels (HR and accounts).
Also Marketing is centralized which is in unit 7 and unit 12. They deal with the buyers, get orders, allocate
the trims and fabric for various units. If there is any shortage of trims or fabric in any unit, the stores
department of that unit will directly contact to unit 7 who in turn coordinate with the buyer. Decision
regarding the order distribution is taken by central planning, which distributes the order depending on the
production capacity of various units.

1.3.2 ORGANIZATION STURUCTURE FACTOR

The organization structure of SHAHI is of function structure type. In such type each portion of the
organization is grouped according to its purpose. For example, marketing department works with
associates who are specialized in marketing. This leads to operational efficiencies within that group. As
shown in the structure chart mainly there are two divisions one is operations and other is human resource
management. Under operations all the Fare included. All the activities related to human resource like
recruitment, welfare benefits, safety, grievance handling etc. comes under human resource management.
This department is the supporting department as they are not involved in actual production but play a very
important role in the smooth functioning of organization.

In garment factory the output of one department becomes the input for other department, so a high level
of coordination is required to produce better efficiency.
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1.3.3 ADVANTAGES OF FUNCTIONAL STRUCTURE

 An advantage of a functional organization structure is that it offers a high level of specialization.

Each unit operates as a type of self-contained mini-company, charged with carrying out its specific
role.
 Employees typically start their careers in an entry-level position within the function and develop a
specialized knowledge as they move up within the hierarchy. They become experts within their
functional area, and the unit and company benefits from their expertise and experience over time.

1.3.4 DRAWBACKS OF FUNCTIONAL STRUCTURE

 Functional areas may become distracted by their own goals and focus on them, rather than on
overall company objectives. For instance, there may be a desire by I.T. department to implement a
new, state of the art computer system, but the overall company objectives support investment in
new products instead. Since the unit doesn’t have an overview of the entire company, it may focus
attention on goals that it believes are important but which are not priorities for top management
 Functional areas may have difficulties working with other functional areas. There is often a
perception that they are competing with other functional area for resources and a lack of
understanding of what other areas do for the company.

1.3.5 HOW TO OVERCOME

 Create a common understanding of the organization priorities and objectives.

 Set clear expectation from individual and group contribution.
 Build capability through feedback and learning.
 Ensure employment commitment based on meaningful work and rewards.
 In garment factory the output of one department is the input of other. No department can work
individually. Every department is related to each other. A clear understanding should be made
about how the goal of a particular department is going to affect the efficiency of other department
and the organization goal.

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2.0. INDUSTRY PROCESS FLOW

Industrial process flow

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DEPARTMENTAL STUDY

3.1. MERCHANDISING

Merchandising is a process through which products are planned, developed, executed and presented to
the buyer. It includes directing and overseeing the development of product line from start to finish.
Marketing and merchandising department: A team of merchandisers and marketers work together under
a profit controls head. Merchandisers handle the foreign buyers. The teams are made according to the
buyers being handled.

Two type of merchandising done in Shahi Exports

Marketing merchandising.

Product merchandising.

Marketing merchandising

Main function of marketing merchandising is

Product Development

Costing

Ordering

Marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly products development and it has direct contact with
the buyer.

Product merchandising

Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities from sourcing to finishing
i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and ends till shipment.

A Merchandisers key responsibility are as follows: -

Product Development

Market and product Analysis

Selling the concept

Booking orders
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 Confirming Deliveries

Designing and Sampling

Costing

Raw Material

Flow Monitoring

Production Follow Ups

Payments Follows

Department structure

MARKETING MERCHANDISER

HEAD MERCHANDISER

SENIOR MERCHANDISE

JUNIOR MERCHANDISER

In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior

merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and coordinating with the buyer, the
garment styles that meets buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality, and price point. Junior
merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers,
overseas communication etc. Once the order is placed it is their duty to complete the necessary paper
work, provide breakdown information to all other department and get samples approved for fit, color and
quality. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers, approval of production samples, and
development of fabric and yarns are also included in product development, which are co-coordinated
with other departments. Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery
schedules, and investigate for future buyers. Overall we can say that merchandising is the core
department of the entire industry.

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Costing

The most important activity for the merchant is to estimate correctly and negotiate for the cost of
production before the buyer sends on his PO. During the per-development stage an initial costing occurs
to get an idea of the garment cost likely to be incurred per piece. These costs include general raw
material cost, manufacturing cost, washing cost, markup cost etc. Once the production sample is
approved and the grading done a final costing is done accurately using fabric averages from the CAD, cost
of trims etc.

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SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

BASIC WORK FLOW;

In any export house, the sampling department is one of the most important departments and it plays a
vital role in the enlistment of a unit.

Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production department. Sampling
is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether there are any
discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer’s specification.

Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric details,
embellishment details, stitch type etc. to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this information along
with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction, size set and approval in to a style
package and hands it over to the Sampling department head.

In Shahi, Sampling department is centralized in unit-7 of Shahi, Delhi for wovens. Sampling is the
product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments are made so as to match
the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production. The sampled
garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of production skills and techniques. The
samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and
products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric consumption along with that of thread and other
accessories used.

It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled and makes a complete make
through garment. This department makes samples on the basis of specifications and requirements sent
by the buyer in the tech pack.

TYPES OF SAMPLES
 Proto Sample
 Fit Sample
 Pilot Run Sample
 Pre-Production Sample
 Pre Size Set
 Size Set
 Garment Package Test Sample
 Show Room Sample
 TOP Sample
 Shipment Sample
 Counter Sample

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  Sales. Sample

Machine Details
Their are a total of 80 machines in the sampling department:
 5 Cutting Tables
 8 Pattern Making Table
 1 Conveyor Belt Fusing Machine

FINISHING MACHINES
 1 Ironing Tables
 1 Shirt Folding Machine

OTHER MACHINES

 SNLS machine
 DNLS machine
 Bar tack machine
 Overlock machine
 Kansai Special
 Zigzag Lockstitch machine
 Blind stitch machine
 and others
The Details Attached to the Garment Sample

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it,
with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what
supplement fabric/trim etc. they have used (if applicable).

 Reference Number
 Color
 Fabric
 Composition
 Description
 Quantity
 Style Number
 Size

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  Store

3.2. FABRIC SOURCING

Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its merchandise i.e. fabric
will be obtained. It works in co-ordination with the merchandising department and looks after the
delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and cost. A fabric sourcer must have a
knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute their function effectively.

FABRIC STORE:

The capacity of the store is about 100,000Mts.

The Sourcing of Fabric is being done mainly from:

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  Yarn Dyed – Salem & Tirupur
 Printed Fabric – Ghaziabad(Shahi own Mill)
 Denim fabric – Arvind Mills, AshimaTextile
 Imported Fabric – According to buyer’s specification from China, Hong kong etc

Examples of certain Mills that specializes in some particular types of fabric is as follow:

 Vardhman mills(H.P) specializes in Solid Dyed 40s Poplin

 Arvind mills specializes in all types of fabric Denims, Knits, Bottom wear
 Ashima mills specializes in all type of high end fabrics

STORAGE

Location system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in two areas (a)Checked fabric and
(b) Unchecked fabric. Such a system maintenance of the store makes it easy to locate the fabric whenever
needed in future.

FABRIC SOURCING

Fabric requisition from merchandiser

Order placed

Fabric receive invoice/challan

Unloading after checking

Tally with supplier invoice for quality

Send bill to gate for entry

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 Receive fabric in store

Forward fabric for inspection

Inspection report sends to the concern merchant or sourcing dept.

After comments reentry in the system with final comments if rejected or

accepted

If accepted

Relocation in store

Issue against job order

3.3. PURCHASING DEPARTMENT

Functioning of the Department:

The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference is that the
sourcing department works for sourcing the fabrics alone while the purchasing department works for
sourcing the accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the same. The working is as
follows.

The merchandisers give the tech pack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular style to the
purchasing department and the concerned person will start the further process and for costing
purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the price involved
for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its production. In the process of
doing the in-house price , suppose the cost of 100 pieces of button is Rs.32 then a CST of 2% + 14% of
exercise duty + 10% of per unit price is added as the transportation charges and this all together makes
the in-house price (a hidden margin of 5% is also taken into consideration).

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This breakup is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing purpose, the
cost sheet is made by the merchandisers and the order is confirmed by the buyer based on the cost
sheet given by the merchandiser.

After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other concerned
departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the trims and accessories with
respect to color, size, MOQ, etc., will be given by the merchandiser to the purchasing department in the
form of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for all the orders irrespective of the buyer.

Once the purchasing department receives this format, then the PO is sent to the concerned
department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw materials is sent by the supplier
then the lab dips is done and is approved by the buyer. In case of getting the accessories and trims for
the sampling purposes then only a small quantity, say about 100 – 200 pieces are ordered and the
supplier charges the minimum amount or sometimes gives it free of cost.

After receiving the goods from the supplier, they are checked for the quantity and also checked
according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of them are not meeting
this criterion. This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received in-house timely. The
goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser according to the
requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this breakups will have
specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being mentioned then the order is being placed
with the supplier several times for small quantities and PO’s have to be sent all the time so, in order to
overcome this a breakups are being given.
Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and when the
merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular style and then the department
also has to maintain the receipts and also they have to maintain the documents of the inspections that
are being carried out for those materials.
The communication between the merchandiser and the purchase department happens mainly through
phone calls but no matter however small the situation is, both the departments maintain an e-mail also
i.e., along with the phone call they send an e-mail also. Communication between the supplier and the
purchase department happens purely through e-mails. All these e- mails, receipts, PO’s, PI’s, Formats,
Order formats, etc., are maintained as a hard copy also.

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 3.4. FABRIC QC DEPARTMENT

The fabric audit department for the woven division of SEPL is centralized. It is at unit – 1. The main
objectives of this department are:

 Analysis of defects in the fabric by various methods.

 Selection of fabric according to AQL 1.5.

Inspection is done on the following grounds:

 100% shade segregation is done.

 100% width segregation is done.
 15% fabric inspection is done for defects.
 10 – 15% shrinkage test for light weight fabrics and mostly 100% for heavy weight fabrics.
 The fabric is checked in full width form only.
 The quantity is checked, whether the mentioned length of the roll is correct or not.

FABRIC INSPECTION

In SEPL, four-point grading system is followed in the fabric audit department. All fabrics are inspected
under the 4-point inspection system. Penalty points are assigned based on the standard fault size for
every type of fault and colored stickers are then put for the identification of serious defects in the
subsequent process.
Fault description under the 4-point inspection system:

LEVEL POINT INDICATION

0-3 inches 1 Yellow
3-6 inches 2 Green
6-9 inches 3 Navy
Over 9 inches 4 Red

Red Sticker Weaving Defect

Blue Sticker Processing Defect

Green Sticker Other Defects

Arrow Sticker Centre-Selvedge shade variation.

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3.5. PLANNING DEPARTMENT
FUNCTIONING OF THE DEPARTMENT:

Planning department has a vital role to play in the approval of the order and helps the merchants to
determine the costing of a particular style and they also tell the merchants if the company is capable of
producing the particular style in the given span of time and also helps them to know the capacity of the
production floor.
On receiving the orders, from the merchants they start to decide the date for having the PP (Pre-
Production) meeting with the departments which are directly involved which are, planning, production
and the finishing departments. Then the department will allocate the style to the unit whichever has the
capacity of completing the obtained project based on the line openings and also buyer’s specifications
and the skill of labor required for it.
The planning department then calculates and plans the PCD (Plan Cut Date), Order Quantity, Sample,
order breakup, operation bulletin, etc. with respect to the particular unit in which that particular order
has been placed with.
The planning department takes the approval or sits and conducts a meeting with three other
departments to come to end up giving a proper planning and scheduling dates for the particular style
this will take about 10 – 15 days from the merchandiser approves the order that has to be followed.
Firstly, they take inputs from IED (Industrial Engineering Department) on productivity based on the
garment details which includes, SAM value of the garment, number of components in the garment, type
of seams, length of stitches involved in the garment, types of machines required to finish the garment,
any specialized machine is required or not for the manufacturing of the garment, difficulties involved
during stitching of the garment if it is of a complicated style and structure, the skill level required for the
various operations of the garment and the ratio of the operators with respect to their skill levels
required for manufacturing the particular garment for all the operations all together. Then they finally
come to a conclusion about planning entire style.
Secondly, they confirm the details given to the concerned units i.e., they confirm the PCD, Order
quantity, sample and other similar information from them in consultation with the GM and FM.
Thirdly, they confirm this consultation if it is the final decision and then they also get a confirmation
from the embroidery, washing and finishing departments if the slots for the dates on which they have
planned for those particular styles is available and then after confirmation they fix the particular dates
on which the style has to reach the embroidery, washing and finishing departments.

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After, a proper output has come from the PP meeting and there are proper confirmation obtained from
the departments the planning department will confirm the order plan with the merchants and then
provide MIS (Management Information System) report to the management every fortnight, then they
prepare a “Batch Commitment Sheet” and this sheet is prepared about 3 – 5 days before the cutting
date. This commitment sheet includes the details regarding the batch that has taken up the job of
producing the particular style, the quantity which they are committed to produce for a day and the
labor details (which involves the number of operators and to which operation they are assigned to and
they skill level will also be mentioned). This sheet will have to be updated once in a hour to know the
hourly production of the batch.
Then there exists another kind of a sheet which is made that is a ‘Batch Variance Sheet”, this sheet is
completely based on the Batch Commitment Sheet and in this sheet the updating of the style in the
production floor is done and is given to the merchants on daily basis.
Then the planning department will follow up with the factory till the order is completely being executed
and the entire order quantity is being shipped.
The planning department is responsible for the timely input of the raw materials to the production floor
and they must make sure that none of the days the batch /sewing line must sit idle with a reason of raw
material non-availability.
The planning department keeps in constant touch will most of the departments like the IED, Finishing,
Washing, Production, Marketing, etc., the communication within the different departments is done
purely on the mail basis and sometimes through phone calls but any types of mails regarding the
changes in the line of the style or any such modifying sort of a situation then the department maintains
a hard copy of it for the future reference and confirmation.

3.6. LABORATORY DEPARTMENT

 FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT

The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered later may be for
sampling, pilot or for the bulk production. The sourcing department as soon as it receives the fabric
swatches from the supplier they will select the fabrics which they require for the particular style and
then order for a few meters and then after they receive the small amount then they sent it to the
laboratory along with the tests that are to be carried out for that particular fabric sample. The list of
tests that the sourcing department generally asks for are as follows.

23
  Count

 Construction

 Color fastness to washing

 Color fastness to crocking

 Dimensional stability to washing

 Fabric strength

 Fabric weight

MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT:
The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests which has to be
carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The garment sample is sent to the
laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as per the buyer specifications.
After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment fabric samples are
sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer specifies.

Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a
fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally send it in a
format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of the particular material
with respect to the composition, construction, material type, color and other material related details
which will help the lab technicians while carrying out the tests.
The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like:
 Types of tests.
 Urgency of the task.
 Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally.
 Duration of the tests that has to be carried out.
 Time required in getting the proper and the required output.

 Number of samples that has to be tested.

Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from any of the
departments, they generally proceed on priority bases. If the results are required very soon and the
tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular sample is taken first and then
tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received involves more number of tests and

24
tests which involve long processing then such tests takes time about 2 – 3 days and then after receiving
the proper output they note down the readings in the record and then send it the concerned
department form where they have got it.

3.7. MACHINE MAINTENANCE

Apart from having quality system and the best practices,’ machine maintenance’ is also a very important,
to get ‘quality’ products. Unacceptable quality of products often results ill- maintained machines.
Breakdown and preventive maintenance are primarily aimed toward reduced downtime and increased
life respectively. Proper machine maintenance is also necessary to avoid casualties at the floor. The
function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE includes;

 Care of the fittings

 Adjusting settings
 Oil changing

 Graph maintenance
 Outward/inward reports
 Needle weekly reports.
 Machine configuration chart
 Laser stock
 History card

 Needle log cards.

The maintenance department stock of m/c

MACHINE VARIATION TYPE UTILITY

LOCKSTITCH Single needle 1 needle, 1 bobbin Placket making, top

Double needle 2 needles, 2 bobbins stitching, edge stitching,
label making, safety
-fixed Bar
stitch, attaching self-
-split Bar fabric neck binding tape
CHAINSTITCH Single needle 1 needle, 1 looper Neck rib, shoulder piping,

25
 Double needle 1 needle, 1 looper cuff top stitching,
shoulder top stitching
- tandem needle

- straight needle

OVERLOCK 3 thread 1 needle, 2 loopers Shoulder seam

4 thread 2 needle, 2 loopers Side seam, underarm

seam, elitication,
shoulder seam
5 thread 2 needle, 3 loopers Trouser seam

6 thread 3 needle, 3 loopers Armhole seam,

shoulder seam
FLAT LOCK 3 thread 2 needle, 1 loopers Neck binding, cuff
binding, bottom hemming
4 thread 2 needle, 1 loopers Cover seam,
1 Spreader bottom
hemming
5 thread 3 needle, 1 loopers elastication
1 Spreader
6 thread 4 needle, 2 loopers Side seam
1 Spreader
SPECIALISED SEWING Shell stitch 1 needle, 2 loopers Decorative purpose,
MACHINERY picotting 1 needle, 1 loopers dense overlock,

figotting 2 needle, 2 loopers elastication, piping,

hemming, securing of
Pearl stitch 1 needle, 2 loopers
stitch etc.
Blind hemming 1 needle, 2 loopers

Zigzag machine 1 needle, 1 bobbin

scalloping 1needle, 1
looper
(spreader)
Back latch 2 needle, 2 loopers

elastication 2 needle, 2 loopers

Buttonhole machine 1 needle, 1 bobbin Button hole making
26
3.8. CAD ROOM

SHAHI EXPORTS has its own CAD department for varied style garments are made with help of Optitex
software package.

FUNCTIONS OF CAD ROOM

CAD department is responsible for the following functions:

 Determining cutting average for costing

 Making the most efficient cutting marker

 Development and alteration of patterns
 Development of size set pattern by grading
 Embroidery graphics making

 Digitizing the pattern

 Thread consumption

BASIC WORKFLOW

Firstly, the merchandiser sends the following documents to the CAD room:

 Approved style sheet and spec sheet containing all the measurements.
 Graded measurement spec sheet.
 Fabric detail sheet containing information like fabric form (open roll or tubular form),
tube size, GSM, type of fabric, style no, vendor, buyer etc.
Then the work of the CAD room begins.

3.9. CUTTING ROOM

Cutting is a process of separating parts form the fabric as replicas of the pattern pieces
BASIC WORK FLOW

Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production manager.
Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of styles, from the
spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the following details:

27
  Sampling average, weight of garment ( base fabric consumption only ), other trims
averages.
 Measurement sheet
 Design worksheet of the garment
 Purchase order
 Fabric requisition sheet

 CAD mini marker

 Marker planning- length of lay etc., size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be
cut.

ACTUAL CUTTING PROCESS

SOLID CUTTING

SPREADING

Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a manner, which
permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components acceptable for assembly. For this,
first of all a thin brown paper sheet is pasted on the cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the
bottom plies from shifting during cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of
first fabric layer on this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid.

The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading machine. While
manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine gives faster and more accurate
results. The length of the lay depends upon the quality of the fabric & length of the marker as specified
by the CAD. Whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the
machine.
Ground Floor

Spreading:

There are three shifts in this department for the employees.

1. 6am to 2pm
2. 2pm to 10pm
3. 10pm to 6am

28
Spreading is a process during which fabric is cut in pieces of certain length and the pieces placed one above
another in many plies. The length of the cut fabric ply is determined by the shape, size and number of the
components to be cut from it. Spreading also involves placing layers (or plies) of fabric on top of one
another. The number of plies in a spread is dependent on the number of articles required and the technical
limits of the fabric spreading and cutting processes

There are two types of methods of spreading in this unit.

1. Manual-
 Five manual processes are there.
 Number of workers in each manual spreading process- minimum 2 and maximum 3.
 After each lay of the fabrics are spread according to the instructed length of the lay it is cut with
the help of electric cutting motors which are controlled by the employees themselves.

 After spreading the fabrics according to the requirements, if any extra fabrics are left (called
end bits) are folded and kept in the end bits storage area. They are used later in re-cutting
section.
 Once the spreading is completed for a particular style type the marker sheet is spread on top it.
The marker is designed by the cad department.

29
 2. Automatic-
 One automatic spreading machine is present in the industry.
 Maximum 2 workers are involved in the automatic spreading method.
 The spreading details are fed in the software of the machine and accordingly the it works.
 Machine company- Eastman.
 Machine model- ES-1800W

 CUTTING
The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or CAM m/c. The
machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker and the reciprocating blade
cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are also added. For smaller components like collars,
ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting machine is used. It is a non-portable cutting device,
30
which cuts the fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are
cut.

Spread

Place marker

Cut pattern pieces

BLOCK CUTTING

Jacquard, stripes and checks cannot be spread with the spreading machine due to requirements of
matching so they are spread manually. Often structures like jacquard and checks are spread and cut in
single number for accuracy. The plies are spread one at a time, matching the stripes with those in the
previous plies. Then block are cut out from this spread for specific number of pieces. The size of the
block is dictated by the CAD room itself, which sends a mini marker for the cutting of the blocks from
the lay and placement of the patterns on the blocks. Accordingly the cut blocks are manually marked on
the top with marking chalk and using the hard paper patterns. The plies in the block are aligned to the
match the stripes and a rough cutting of the fabric following the markings of the pattern is done. The
cut shapes are again checked for alignment and the stripes superimposed. A final precise cutting occurs
to finish the patterns.

Cutting of striped fabric is a much more time consuming process. The wastage involved are also more due
to cutting in two stages.

31
Spread

Match

Mark blocks

Match

Mark patterns

Cut pattern

match

Final precise shaping of patterns

32
Cutting:

The main purpose of cutting section involves cutting of garment panels precisely, consistent with the
pattern shape and size as well as economically and in a necessary volume to keep the sewing department
supplied with work.

There are two types of methods of cutting in this unit.

1. Manual-
 There are two tables for manual cutting.
 In manual cutting the workers cuts the patterns according to the markers manually.
 The workers use straight knife to cut the patterns
 The workers also wear chain gloves which allows them to stop the knives at random places as
required.
 Straight knife details:
Company- Eastman
Model- Blue Streak II
10A; 220V

2. Automatic:

 The automatic machine used by Shahi Exports Unit 1 is Eastman ES-1800W Laser Cutting Machine.
 There are also two vacuum tables for automatic cutting but there is only one cutting machine.

33
  The vacuum tables used in the Eastman Laser Cutting Machine enables easy movement of the
fabrics.
 With the help of this machine, the patterns are cut according to the program fed in the Eastman
Pro software.
 A cellophane sheet is spread onto the fabric to make the lays tight enough, in order to avoid the
sliding of the lays while cutting.
 We may or may not require to manually separate the cut part

1.12. SORTING AND TICKETING

The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one garment size are
bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two different bolts (bundles) of
fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to- bolt variations in the color shade.
The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade
matching precision, and sequence identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the
ticket using ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece
number and serves as important means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to
end.

34
Bundling:

1.13. NUMBERING:

Numbering refers to printing number on the garment pieces by means of ink or stamping machine to
identify the garment panels to be stitched together.

Location on garment panels where number should be done:

 Which will fold inside and hide the inked number: Example – bottom hem of a shirt’s front panel

 Which will go inside another panel: Example: Edge of sleeve that will go inside cuff

 Which will be cut off the garment.

Example: At the extra length of the front placket.

35
 The digits on number sealing methods signifies:

So, there are two methods used in this industry.

1. Number sealing machine-

In this method the numbering is done by stamping method. The numbers are dipped in ink and then the
workers stamp it on the garment panels. It is mostly used for denim fabrics as they are of dark shade and
the ink helps in clear visibility of the numbers.

In general, this method is more preferred because:

 Permanent numbering: stickers may fall off the garment creating confusion in sewing line, leading
to reduced efficiency and quality
 Time saving: time taken to remove and re-paste the sticker is saved.
 No sticker stain marks on the garment.

36
Constraints for Number Sealing garments:

There are three constraints that determine whether number sealing on garments can be done or not:

 Visibility – The colour of fabric may camouflage the number sealed. There are different colours of
ink available like white, silver, black, red, yellow and green hence before inking, the colour of ink
should be appropriately chosen based on visibility. If any of the colour is not visible number sealing
garments cannot be done.
 Transparency – If the ink is not completely hidden after the inked area has been covered by
another layer of fabric.
 Absorbency – Some fabric will absorb more and hence when inked, the numbers will spread and
smudge making them unreadable. Sealing cannot be done on highly hydrophobic and hydrophilic
fabrics. Silicon coated fabrics pose a problem as they can be either hydrophobic or hydrophilic.

2. Labelling-
 Layer numbering is another numbering processes which takes place after cutting a marker.
 It is the process of stick the stickers on garment component for identification and tracking
purpose.
 In this process, each garment component is marked with a serial number of the layer in the
cut. These serial numbers are printed on labels which are stuck to the fabric cut panels.
 This method is done on non-denim fabrics and it is a manual method.

37
1.14. CUT PANEL AND CHECKING

The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual piece for any
objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size, incorrect shape and
any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that cannot are not within the acceptable quality
parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component checking report is filled for the total
quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and an equal number of fresh
panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same number as the rejected ones.

Other mendable faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. These will be spotted out
during garment finishing or washing.
 Once all the panels have been numbered, they are sent to the panel checking section where each of
the fabric cut and numbered panels are checked manually.
 The checking is done on the basis of the buyer name, style number, colour or shade of the fabrics,
date etc.
 They check whether the panels are cut properly or whether there any kind of defects.

1.15. BUNDLING
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using ties. The size
of bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each bundle will contain pieces of the
same style and same size only. The cutting department issues the amount required by the production
department when asked for.
Most of the sewing rooms use the bundling system, where small batches of garments move from one
workstation to another in a controlled manner. In order to prepare the cut work, it is essential for
operators to be able to identify each pile. This is the function of the marker, if used, as the style number,
the size and the part identification will be part of the plot. If markers are not used, a top-ply labelling
system is required.

NOTE- After the pieces are cut, they are bundled together according to the cut number (cut number
denotes an entire style of fabric that has been spread and cut). Later the bundles are kept on racks from
where they are moved to the numbering section.

38
1.16. EMBROIDERY

The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for embroidery as
stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and follow up these departments
accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent are sent for embroidery, which are re- cut after receiving back. To
avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same size are stitched together temporarily before
dispatch for the embroidery.

1.17. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

FUNCTIOING OF THE DEPARTMENT:

The production floor does production in two types, once during pilot production where they have to
produce about 150 – 200 garments for the new style this will take about 40 – 55 days.
The production floor will receive the details like,

The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a particular line
for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about the skills of the
operators.

39
1.18. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

FUNCTIOING OF THE DEPARTMENT:

The production floor does production in two types, once during pilot production where
they have to produce about 150 – 200 garments for the new style this will take about 40
– 55 days.
The production floor will receive the details like,

The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a
particular line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them
about the skills of the operators.

1.19. EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT

FUNCTIOING OF THE DEPARTMENT:

The embroidery section is a department which comes into picture only when the
particular style demands. The embroidery section is the centralized and the second
largest embroidery unit in Asia.
The embroidery section receives the garment, style and the embroidery details
from the merchandisers in the form of the hard copy format which is generally
maintained in company, the department will maintain the file for all the formats
received and they will also get a sample of the garment on which the embroidery
has been already done and they will use this as their reference sample / piece.
As soon as the department receives the details they check the design that has to be
done and they scan the design using the CAD software and then they digitize the
design and check for the number of stitches involved, area the design has to cover,
the style of the stitch involved for the design, thread colors required, thread tax,
starting point of the design on the garment while performing the operation etc., all
these things are calculated and tabulated in the softcopy format and give to the
merchandiser and after an approval from them they start the further operation .

40
After the design has been finalized then they do the embroidery for the samples
that has to be produced to the buyer, these samples are done for about 6 – 7
garments and it is something done against the actual or exact order quantity. After
the samples have been generated then they conduct the pilot run in the
embroidery section.
Once the order has been confirmed and the exact order quantity that has to be
produced is known then they start the bulk production during the production the
embroidery action on the garment is done in two ways one is after the entire
garment has been sewn and the other case is after the garment panels has been
cut and before sewing them into a complete garment.

WASHING DEPARTMENT

FUNCTIOING OF THE DEPARTMENT:

Once the garment has been finished with all the operations then they are sent to
the washing department for the washing or finishing that has to be done for that
particular style according to the buyers specifications and hence it plays a vital role
in the final feel and the texture of the garment which has to match the
specifications of the buyer 100%.
The merchandiser after getting the sample done, they bring the original sample
that will be sent to the merchants by the buyer and they will also get the sample
done in the factory and then they show both the samples and the specifications
and ask the washing department to match the factory sample with the buyer sent
sample with respect to the feel and the texture, for this the merchandiser
himself/herself comes to the washing department in case of samples.
The washing unit will now check the garment for the different aspects like,
 Type of the material.
 The texture that is under demand.
 The feel and look of the garment under demand.

41
  Types of labels that are been used in the garment.
 Dye stuffs used for the garment (if it is a coloured fabric).
 Dye / ink used in the labels that are being attached to the garment.
 Types of threads used for in sewing.
 Types of chemicals that should be used to get the desired finish.
 The after effects of those chemicals on the fabric.

 The sensitivity criteria of the fabric.

 The wet processes that has to be carried out to get the end product.
 The sequence of the processes.
 Temperature at which the garment has to be treated.

 Duration of the treatment.

At first, they segregate the garments based on shade wise, job wise and unit wise,
suppose the garments which are white in colour and which have to be treated in
the similar manner then such styles are clubbed together irrespective of their styles.
After this segregation washing is carried out as per the buyer’s specifications. In
this washing there are two types.
1. Wet processing
2. Dry processing
First the dry processing is carried out and then the wet processing is been followed.
In the dry processing there are four different types they are,
1. Grinding
2. Ripping or Blowout
3. Sandblasting
4. Crinkling
After the dry processing the next main thing which has to be done is wet processing.
Wet processing involves mainly two types, they are
1. Dyeing: this is mainly done using two types of dyes which are reactive
dyes and pigment dyes, these two dyes are more commonly used in
42
2. practice and sometimes the usage of the dyes depends on the fabric
and the buyer demands and requirements.
3. Washing process: After dyeing is finished the fabrics or the garments
are taken to the washing process. There are different types of washing
procedures involved and they are classified as follows,
 Normal wash/ water wash / dip and dry
 Softener wash
 Desize wash
 Enzyme wash

 Stone enzyme wash

 Rubber ball wash

 Denim wash
 Bleach wash
 Tinting/ T- staining
4. Sometimes it so happens that some styles / garments do not demand
for dyeing so at such situations they are sent directly to the washing
process from the dry processing stage or else the original procedure
that is followed in the company is that first the garments are sent to
the dry processing and then from there to the wet processing where it
is first sent to the dyeing and then to the washing process.
5. After the entire process is done then it is followed by the hydro
extraction where in which a specified lot of garments are put into the
hydro extracting machine depending on the tumbler capacity and then
the excess of water which had accumulated in the previous stages will
be extracted by compressing the garment with the optimum pressure
that has to be used for that particular style / garment.
6. Then the garments are dried using the drier. After the garments are
dried they are inspected by the inspection people and the inspection
here is random it does not involve any organized way, any garment

43
 7. from the entire lot is randomly selected and inspected according to the
criteria that will be specified to them by the merchandiser.
8. Once the inspection is over the garments are sent to the finishing and
the packing section or sometimes if the garments has to be attached
with some accessories or trims after the washing and dyeing stages
then such styles are sent to the production floor to finish the left over
job on them and then sent to the finishing and the packing department.
9. The washing department in this unit (Unit – 7) is the centralized one for
the units located in Bangalore and its surrounding areas so the washing
unit will be receiving the garments from different units for the washing
purposes hence this department has to keep in track of the garments,
quantity of the garments received, processes that has to be carried out
for them, the stage in which they are, duration required for the process
to be finished for the garments according to the types of the washes
prescribed for them, etc., hence this department maintains a record in
which they fill in the details of the garment style number, PO number,
item number, quantity received and the day and date of recieval. The
department maintains these details both in the soft as well as in the
hard copy format. The department will enter the details in the MOVEX.
Whenever the washing unit receives or delivers the garment lot from
the different units then the communication is mainly through the e-
mails and also phone calls.

1.20. QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

FUNCTIOING OF THE DEPARTMENT:

Quality is the major criteria for any product and the same rule applies even to
garment industries also. In order to maintain quality the quality assurance
departments has split up their job into different stages of manufacturing and there
are classified into four major groups which are as follows.

44
  Pre-production audit:
 Cutting audit:
 Sewing audit:
 Button/button hole:
1.21. FINISHING DEPARTMENT

FUNCTIOING OF THE DEPARTMENT:

The finishing department is the department which comes after all the departments
and it plays an equally important role in the final appearance of the garment. This
department includes majorly of the following steps,
 Trimming: This involves the removal of the extra threads from the garment at
the stitched areas.
 Inspection: The inspection carried out here is according to the AQL 2.5 system
and sometimes it depends on the buyer also i.e., if the buyer emphasizes for a
100% inspection then the company has to do as specified.

 Semi – pressing: This happens when a garment is difficult to inspect in the

crushes manner as it comes from the washing department hence, they do a
partial pressing for the garments and then inspect it and trim it and then send it
to the complete pressing process.

 Pressing: The pressing is done after the garment has been completely inspected
and the garments are pressed on the basis of how they will be folded during
packing.

 Tagging section: Once the garments are been done with the inspection and
complete pressing then they are sent for tagging the labels and the labels
include the size labels, price tags and miscellaneous labels if any required by the
buyer. Once the tagging is done the garments are folded according to the
buyer’s specification and also they are either folded plainly or sometimes they
are folded after they are put to the hangers as per the buyer’s specifications
again.

 The packing material, PCB details, number of size ratios that are supposed to be
put in are all suggested by the buyer and the packing is done according to these
specifications.

 Packing:

45
The packing is always done in the carton boxes and there are several criteria for the
packing of the garments they are as follows,
 Solid Packing:
In this method of packing, the carton box will include garments of single color and
same size.

 Mixed Packing:
In this method the carton box includes garments of different colors but of same
size or garments with different colors and different sizes in a particular ratio form.
After the packing is done the garments are kept in the go down/stores until the buyer sends
the buyer QC for the inspection purpose before delivering them and once the QC arrives, he
will check them according to the 2.5 AQL level and then see if the garments has to be
accepted or rejected

46
3.26.HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT

47
Human resources department hierarchy

Job of factory HR

ROLES AND RESPONSIBILITIES OF HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT

 Hiring and recruiting.

 Training and development.
 Handling compensation.
 Employee benefits.
 Employee relation.
 Legal responsibilities.

48
SALARY CRITERIA

There are skilled and semi-skilled and unskilled workers in the organization and they are
paid according to their ability and qualification and with consideration of the government
regulation. Increment is given to every worker on the average of 12%. Gratuity is given after

5 years of work experience of the worker. Each and every worker is provided an ATM card
but for the new employee the first month salary is given in cash.

WORK S AMPLING S UMMARY

Fac tory:
S ec tion :
J ob Des c :Re-Cutting
WORKING
Description Unavoidable Delay Other Other Delay
P roce s s P owe r Machine Talk to Talk to P e rs onal E arly Total Output in Daywise
Date Name Token No bring bits checking re cutting as ide bundle Working in anothe r de partme nt No Work Idle Waiting L ate S tart Othe rs
Wait F ailure B rk-Dn S upvs r Othe rs Ne e ds Clos e re adings gmt utli %
Murali 7 15 12 4 4 0 1 0 0 1 0 1 2 0 1 26 80.77
Jayachitra 7 8 12 7 5 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 3 2 0 0 30 83.33
Bharati 0 11 27 7 0 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 0 0 37 94.59
GuddanSujhata 0 9 24 8 1 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 3 0 1 39 87.18
05/06/19 0 180 #DIV/0!
0 #DIV/0!
0 #DIV/0!
0 #DIV/0!
0 #DIV/0!
Murali 9 13 11 1 2 0 1 0 4 0 2 0 0 3 0 0 24 79.17
Jayachitra 13 12 10 4 5 0 1 0 0 0 0 0 1 1 1 1 24 83.33
Bharati 2 7 13 3 0 0 1 0 14 0 1 0 0 3 1 0 36 86.11
GuddanSujhata 0 16 17 2 0 0 1 0 4 0 0 2 0 3 1 0 30 80.00
06/06/19 0 #DIV/0!
0 #DIV/0!
0 #DIV/0!
0 #DIV/0!
0 110 #DIV/0!
Murali 7 6 17 2 0 0 2 0 6 0 0 0 0 3 2 0 32 84.38
Jayachitra 8 11 9 2 8 0 2 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 1 0 24 87.50
Bharati 0 1 2 0 0 0 2 0 40 0 0 0 0 2 1 0 47 93.62
GuddanSujhata 1 11 13 2 0 0 2 0 14 0 1 0 0 1 2 0 35 88.57
07/06/19 0 #DIV/0!
0 #DIV/0!
0 #DIV/0!
0 #DIV/0!
0 199 #DIV/0!
Total 167 0 16 0 82 0 0 0 5 2 0 6 27 9 3 0 384 489 69.01
[%] 21.25 0.00 2.04 0.00 10.43 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.64 0.25 0.00 0.76 3.44 1.15 0.38 0.00 40.33
Working Total= 167 UnavoidableDelay= 16 Other= 82 Other delay= 52 317
Working Total % = 21.25 UnavoidableDelay%= 2.04 Other % = 10.43 Other delay %= 7 40.33
Total Man mins= (32*7+33*2+28*3+31)*480/42 + 480*5 + (19*9)*420/35 = 9080.57 Mins
Man mins 1929.33 0.00 0.00 184.85 0.00 947.34 0.00 0.00 0.00 57.76 23.11 0.00 69.32 311.93 103.98 34.66 0.00 3662.27
Working man mins= 1929.33 Unavoidabledelay manmins= 184.85 Other man mins= 947.34 Delay mins = 600.75
Man mins/gmt 0.40 0.00 0.00 0.04 0.00 0.20 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.01 0.00 0.00 0.01 0.06 0.02 0.01 0.00

Working Man min = 8029.26 mins(Working Total %(includes talk to supsr %)* total man mins)
Man min per gmt =8029.26 / 4818 = 1.67 manmins/gmt
Observed rating = 50%
Normal time = 1.67 * 50 % =0.84 manmins/gmt
Standard time with 15% allowance = 0.84 * 1.15 = 0.96 man mins/gmt
Standard time in daywork = 0.96/0.75 = 1.28 man mins/gmt
No. of garments required per day = 1780 (say)
Time required for 1780 garments = 1780 * 1.28 = 2278 man mins
Total working mins per 8 hr shift = 8hr*60min = 480 mins
No. of people required = 2278 /480 = 4.75
With absenteeism % of 8.5, No. of Middle checking O/P required @ 100 % efficiency = 4.75 * 1.085 = 5.15
No .of middle checking o/p required @ 75 % efficiency = 5.15/ 0.75 = 6.87 ~ 7
No. of people alloted = 16
No. of people required = 7 ( Checkers ) + 7 ( Checkers worked in Trimming ) + 1 ( for shade & colour checking ) = 15
Excess = 16 - 15 = 1

WORK S AMPLING S UMMARY

Fac tory: New Catalogue Clothing Co.

S ec tion : Finis hing
J ob Des c :S hade & c olour c hec king
WORKING
Description Unavoidable Delay Other Other Delay
Che ck for P roce s s P owe r Machine R e move Talk to Talk to P e rs onal E arly Total Output in Daywise
Date Name Token No Mis c J obs R e s cre e n No Work Idle Waiting L ate S tart Othe rs
S hade Wait F ailure B rk-Dn s tains S upvs r Othe rs Ne e ds Clos e re adings gmt utli %
18/09/03 Sharadamma 350 33 3 2 3 1 42 1685 83.33 35 7
19/09/03 Sharadamma 350 33 2 3 4 42 1870 83.33 35 7
20/09/03 Sharadamma 350 32 2 1 35 1263 91.43 32 3
Total 98 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 3 0 4 8 6 0 0 0 119 4818 85.71 102 17
[%] 82.35 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 2.52 0.00 3.36 6.72 5.04 0.00 0.00 0.00 100.00
Working Total= 102 UnavoidableDelay= 0 Other= 0 Other delay= 17 119
Working Total % = 85.71 UnavoidableDelay%= 0.00 Other % = 0.00 Other delay %= 14 100.00
Total Man mins= 480*2+420 = 1380
Man mins 1136.47 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 34.79 0.00 46.39 92.77 69.58 0.00 0.00 0.00 1380.00
Working man mins= 1182.86 Unavoidabledelay manmins= 0.00 Other man mins= 0.00 Delay mins = 197.14
Man mins/gmt 0.24 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.01 0.00 0.01 0.02 0.01 0.00 0.00 0.00

Working Man min = 1182.86 mins(Working Total %(includes talk to supsr %)* total man mins)
Man min per gmt =1182.86 / 4818 = 0.25 manmins/gmt
Observed rating = 45%
Normal time = 0.25 * 45 % = 0.11 manmins/gmt
Standard time with 15% allowance = 0.11 * 1.15 = 0.13 man mins/gmt
Standard time in daywork = 0.13 / 0.75 = 0.17 man mins/gmt
No. of garments required per day = 1780 (say)
Time required for 1780 garments = 1780 * 0.17 = 307 man mins
Total working mins per 8 hr shift = 8hr*60min = 480 mins
No. of people required =307 /480 = 0.64
With absenteeism % of 8.5, No. of Shade and colour checking O/P required @ 100 % efficiency = 0.64 * 1.085 = 0.69
No .of people required @ 75 % efficiency = 0.69/ 0.75 = 0.92 ~ 1

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SWOT ANALYSIS

 STRENGTHS
 Well Established.
 Availability of Low cost and Skilled Manpower provides competitive
advantage to industry.
 It works on customer specification, satisfying the customer needs.
 Works in a professional way.
 The company has large and diversified segments that provide wide variety of
products.
 Satisfied customers.
 WEAKNESSES
 Employee absenteeism is high.
 Cost of maintenance is high.
 Lack of commitment among workmen.
 OPPORTUNITIES
 Emerging Retail Industry and Malls provide huge opportunities for the
Apparel, Handicraft and other segment of the industry.
 Focusing on markets other than US & Europe.
 Increased Disposable Income and Purchasing Power of Indian Customer open
new domestic Markets.
 India is a major exporter of garments, providing high growth rate for garment
industries.
 Continuous Quality Improvement is need of the hour as there are different
demand patterns all over the world.
 The company maintains global standards to face global competition.
 Availability of funds for up gradation of technology.
 Hiring new talents.
 THREATS
 Competition from other developing countries, especially China.
 Change in Economic environment.
 Changing Technology.

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REFERENCES

 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile_industry_in_India
 https://shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in/bitstream/10603/42500/2/saukat%20ansari%20thesis.pdf
 https://www.shahi.co.in/
 https://www.slideshare.net/smadival/shahi-e
 http://www.yourarticlelibrary.com/production-management/production-planning/production-
planning-and-control-10-functions/57433
 https://www.careerexplorer.com/careers/merchandiser/
 http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/sampling-department-responsibilities/
 https://clothingindustry.blogspot.com/2018/01/cutting-department-garment-industry.html
 https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2015/10/functions-of-production-department-in.html
 http://ordnur.com/apparel/job-responsibilities-of-quality-manager-in-apparel-industry/
 https://www.whatissixsigma.net/acceptable-quality-level/
 https://apparelcosting.blogspot.com/2017/06/clothing-packaging-types-method.html
 https://www.businessmanagementideas.com/industries/duties-and-organisation-of-maintenance-
department/9819

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