COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

SECTOR : AGRICULTURE AND FISHERY

QUALIFICATION : ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NCII

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : PRODUCE ORGANIC VEGETABLES

MODULE TITLE : PRODUCING ORGANIC VEGETABLES

 HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING
MATERIAL

The unit of competency, “Produce Organic Vegetables”, is one of the

competencies of Organic Agriculture Production NCII, a course which
comprises the knowledge, skills, and attitudes required for a TVET trainee to
possess.
The module, Producing Organic Vegetables, covers the knowledge, skills
and attitude required to establish nursery, plant seedlings, perform plant
care and perform harvest and post-harvest.
In this module, you are required to go through a series of learning activities
in order to complete each learning outcome. In each learning outcome are
Information Sheets, Self-checks, Operation Sheets, Task Sheets, and Job
Sheets. Follow and perform the activities on your own. If you have questions,
do not hesitate to ask for assistance from your facilitator.
Remember to:

• Read information sheet and complete the self-checks.

• Perform the Task Sheets, Operation Sheets, and Job Sheets until you
are confident that your outputs conform to the Performance Criteria
Checklists that follow the said work sheets.

• Submit outputs of the Task Sheets, Operation Sheets, and Job Sheets
to your facilitator for evaluation and recording in the Achievement
Chart. Outputs shall serve as your portfolio during the Institutional
Competency Evaluation. When you feel confident that you have had
sufficient practice, ask your trainer to evaluate you. The results of
your assessment will be recorded in your Achievement Chart and
Progress Chart.
You must pass the Institutional Competency Evaluation for this
competency before moving to another competency. A Certificate of
Achievement will be awarded to you after passing the evaluation.
 ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NCII
COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIALS

LIST OF COMPETENCIES

No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

1 Raise organic chicken Raising organic chicken AGR612301

2 Produce organic Producing organic AGR611306

vegetables vegetables

3 Produce organic fertilizer Producing organic fertilizer AGR611301

4 Produce organic Producing organic AGR611302

concoctions and extracts concoctions and extracts
QUALIFICATION : ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NCII

UNIT OF COMPETENCY : Produce organic vegetables

MODULE TITLE : Producing organic vegetables

INTRODUCTION

This unit covers the knowledge, skills and attitude required

to establish nursery, plant seedlings, perform plant care and
perform harvest and post-harvest.

NOMINAL DURATION:

LEARNING OUTCOMES:

Upon completion of this module, you MUST be able to:

1. Establish nursery
2. Plant seedlings
ASSESSMENT
3. Perform plant care and management CRITERIA
4. Perform harvest and post-harvest activities
1. Seeds are
selected in accordance with the PNS, and NSQCS/BPI.
2. Seedbeds are prepared in accordance with planting requirements
based on Vegetable Production manual (VPM).
3. Care and maintenance of seedlings are done in accordance with
enterprise practice.
4. Potting media are prepared in accordance with enterprise procedure.
5. Land preparation is carried out in accordance with enterprise practice
6. Beneficial micro-organisms are introduced prior to planting in
accordance with enterprise procedure
7. Seedlings are transplanted/planted based on VPM recommendations
8. Seedlings are watered based on VPM recommendations
9. Water management is implemented according to plan.
10. Effective control measures are determined on specific pest and
diseases as described under the “pest, disease and weed management”
of the
PNS
11. All missing hills are replanted to maintain the desired plant
population of the area
12. Plant rejuvenation/rationing are maintained according to PNS.
13. Organic fertilizers are applied in accordance with fertilization policy of
the PNS
14. Products are checked using maturity indices according to PNS,
Inorganic agriculture and enterprise practice.
15. Marketable products are harvested according to PNS, PNS-organic
agriculture and enterprise practice.
16. Harvested vegetables are classified according to PNS, PNS-organic
agriculture and enterprise practice.
17. Appropriate harvesting tools and materials are used according to PNS.
18. Post-harvest practices are applied according to PNS and GAP
recommendations
19. Production record is accomplished according to enterprise procedures.
 LEARNING OUTCOME #1 Establish nursery

CONTENTS:
1. Seeds
2. Care and Maintenance of Seedlings
3. Prepare Seedbeds

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

1. Seeds are selected in accordance with the PNS, and NSQCS/BPI.

2. Seedbeds are prepared in accordance with planting requirements
based on Vegetable Production manual (VPM).
3. Care and maintenance of seedlings are done in accordance with
enterprise practice.
4. Potting media are prepared in accordance with enterprise
procedure.

CONDITIONS:
All supplies, materials and farm implements needed during farm
operations should be readily available at the farm site.

Equipment and facilities such as:

 Booth/temporary shed
• Cart (Kariton & paragus)
• Comb-tooth harrow
• Computer
• Crates
• Farm/ field
• Greenhouse/ nursery
• Harvesting equipment
• Irrigation system (sprinkler, mist/ drip irrigation)
• Mower (grass cutter)
• Over head projector (OHP)
• Portable chain saw
• Post-Harvest treatment equipment
• Power sprayer
• Rotavator
• Service vehicle
• Sorting equipment
 • Spike tooth harrow
• Storage room
• Surface irrigation system

Tools and instruments such as:

• Bolos
• Broomstick
• Calculator
• Container
• Cutting tools
• Digging tools
• Drying meter
• Fruit crate
• Harvesting tools
• Hat
• Knapsack sprayer
• Knife
• Light hoe
• Moisture meter
• Petri-dish
• pH meter
• Pick mattock  Picking knife
• Plow
• Plumbing tools
• Post-Harvest treatment tools
• Protective gadgets
• Pruning shears

Supplies and Materials such as:

• Agri bags, plastic
• Bamboo stick
• Basket
• Bond paper
• Catching nets
• Clips
• Coconut dust
• Compost
• Fertilizers
• First aide supplies/ medicine
• Flower inducer
• Fungicides
• Gloves
• Growing media (garden soil, sewed sand, compost, soil, manure
and sawdust/rice)
• Killing bottles  Marking pens
 • Masks
• Mulching material
• Hair nets
• Packaging materials, assorted
• Pail

All workers involved in different activities must be fully oriented and

cautioned on the different specific work activities of the farm

Technical supervisors should have skills and ability in the successful

implementation of work program activities

METHODOLOGY:
• Demonstration
• Discussion
• Oral questioning
• Video presentation
• Field demonstration
• Film viewing

ASSESSMENT METHODS:

• Direct observation with oral questioning

• Demonstration
• Written exam
• Interview
 Learning Experiences
Learning Outcome 1 ESTABLISH NURSERY
Learning Activities
Read Information Sheets 2.1-1
on Seeds
Answer Self-Check 2.1-1
Read Information Sheet 2.1-2
on Care and Maintenance of
Seedlings
Answer Self-Check 2.1-2
Read Information Sheet 2.1-3
on Prepare Seedbeds
Answer Self-Check 2.1-3
Perform Job Sheet 2.1-3 on
Prepare Seed Beds
Special Instructions
Read and understand the information
sheet and check yourself by answering
the self-check. You must answer all
questions correctly before proceeding to
the next activity. You may check your
answer by using the answer key.
Task/Job/Operation Sheets will help you
practice your skills.
The performance criteria checklist will
guide and help you evaluate your work
as you are practicing your skill
Evaluate your own work using the
performance criteria. When you are
ready, present your work to your trainer
for final evaluation and recording.
After doing all activities of this LO -
Establish nursery, you are ready to
proceed to the next LO - Plant seedling.
 INFORMATION SHEET 2.1-1
SEEDS

Learning Objectives:

After reading this information sheet, you must be able to:

1. Describe the structure and composition of Seed.

2. Understand and discuss vegetable seed production technology

Seeds are the vital part of agriculture. Selection of good quality seeds is a
challenge for famers.
Only good quality seeds which are sown properly can
give an expected result or yield. Seeds of variety of types and strains are
available; cultivators have to choose from these and these have to be sown in
the field. Let us see selection of seeds and methods of sowing.
Seed Selection

Healthy, good quality seeds are the root of a healthy crop.

Hence selection of seeds is crucial. Selection helps to obtain
healthy seeds; sustain and optimize the quality of crop strain.
Based on plant size, quantity of grains, fruit size or colour,
disease resistance etc. seeds can be selected. Farmers also need
to check the germination period, nutrients required so that the
selected seeds will be beneficial in terms of yield and finance.
Some seeds are sources of diseases; they can be used after
proper treatment like chemical or hot water treatments etc. A
careful observation of crops and their yield in first year may
help farmers to choose best strains of seeds for successive
years. Hence for high yield, sow best seeds.

Sowing

After the preparation of soil, the previously selected seeds are scattered in
the field. This is called sowing. Sowing should be done carefully and
uniformly. If seeds are not sown uniformly, overcrowding of crop happens.
For sufficient sunlight, water and other requirements congestion needs to be
prevented.
Traditionally, sowing is done manually whereas nowadays seed drilling
machines are used.

Traditional method: Here seeds are sown either by hand or by using

tools. Sowing of seeds by hand is called broadcasting. This is cheap but a
uniform distribution is not maintained. Alternatively, a funnel like tool filled
with seeds is used. Seeds are passed through pipes deep into soil.

Drilling machine: This is a modern method where sowing is done by iron

drills connected to a tractor. Here also funnels filled with seeds are present
at the top of drill. When plough moves, seeds are distributed into the furrow
made by plough and covered. This method is more advantageous than
traditional method. They distribute seeds at regular distances and depth
and are also profitable in terms of both labour and time.

Selection and sowing of seeds are two agricultural practices which demand
extreme attention and care.

Self-Check 2.1-1
True or False
Write TRUE if the statement is correct and false if it is incorrect

1. Seeds are the vital part of

land.
2. Selection of good quality seeds is a
challenge for famers.
3. Only good quality seeds which are sown properly can give an expected
result or yield.
4. Seeds of variety of types and strains are available; cultivators have to
choose from these and these have to be sown in the field.
5. For sufficient sunlight, water and other requirements congestion
needs to be prevented.
Answer Key 2.1-1

1. False
2. True 3. True 4. True
5. True
 INFORMATION SHEET 2.1-2
COMPOST AND HARVEST FERTILIZER

Learning Objectives:

After reading this information sheet, you must be able to:

1. Understand and discuss care and maintenance of seedlings

Seed pre-treatments and seed storage

If seeds are enclosed in a fleshy fruit, remove as much as possible of the

flesh with a knife, wash off the rest under water, and plant the seeds
immediately. Fruit flesh attracts insects and fungi which may damage the
seed, so it’s important to plant the seed as soon as you can. For seeds in a
seed pod, such as a bean, let the pods split open naturally by laying them in
a semishaded place. Similarly, for other fruits with a woody outer coating,
drying them in semi-shade or gently cracking should open them and let you
collect the seed. Some sun is good, but be careful not to overheat, which
might kill the seeds.

A good nursery practice is to pre-treat the seeds, if they

take more than a week to germinate. You will save time
and resources by pre-treating seeds. Faster production
time in the nursery lowers nursery costs and may also
allow the farmers to plant the seedlings during the best
planting times. If you are unsure how long the seed will
take to germinate, sow some BEFORE you sow all of
the seeds to find out. There are four basic types of seed pretreatment used
in the lowland tropics of Latin America. Sulphuric acid is sometimes
recommended as a fifth seed pre-treatment but, because of the danger and
cost involved, we do not recommend it. In order to determine the best pre-
treatment method, take a few handfuls of seed and try the methods
described on the next page in the order given. If most of the seed germinates
well with the first method, then that is probably sufficient. If not, try the
next method and so on until you obtain the best germination rates.

The seeds contain two parts: an outer protective coat, and the inner embryo
that develops into the plant. Germination begins when water penetrates the
seed coat and the seed swells. When seeds swell, plant immediately. Discard
seeds that float; they probably have air pockets caused by insects or dead
embryos. Always use 2–5 parts of water for each part of seed (e.g. two to five
tablespoons of water for one tablespoon of seed). Change the water every 12
hours to remove chemicals that may also slow down germination. Do some
tests to see the best orientation for sowing the seeds. This is especially
important if the shoots or roots are twisted when they emerge from the seed,
which is common in mahogany and mango. In southern Mexico, the
common way to sow mahogany seedlings is with the wing pointing up. But
in one nursery, the manager noticed that the best way to plant was with the
wing pointed down. In Puerto Rico, it is recommended by a forest research
station that seed be planted flat. In such cases, you should do trials of all
three methods and see what works best under the conditions you have.

Four basic seed pre-treatments

1. Cold water treatment: Soak seeds in cold water for at least 12 and
up to 48 hours. You can also try soaking the seeds in water during the
day, and leaving them to dry at night.
2. Hot water treatment: Boil water in a large pot, remove from heat and
cool for 10 minutes. Add seed to water and let soak for up to two days.
3. Boiling water treatment: Boil water in a large pot, remove from heat,
add seed and leave for two minutes. Pour off the hot water and replace
with cold water. Soak the seed for up to two days.
4. Mechanical: It is important not to damage the embryo, or the part of
the seed where the root will emerge (usually an indented place or a
pointed area). Nick the seed with a knife, crack it with a stick, or
scratch its surface on a concrete floor, or with sandpaper. For small
seed, place in a jar lined with sandpaper facing the inside of the jar,
and shake vigorously. It is not necessary to completely remove the
tough outer seed coat — just crack it so that water can enter the seed
and trigger germination.

A good nursery practice is to sow the seed immediately after collecting, or

store correctly if necessary. You should plan ahead and have containers
filled, so that seed can be sown without delay. If you must store seed before
sowing, make sure it is kept well ventilated in a cloth or mesh sack, or in
clay pots. These materials ‘breathe’ and reduce the chance of mould. If a
refrigerator is available, you can use plastic bags or containers.

Only clean, dry seed should be stored. Hang the sacks from a pole so that
air can circulate all around them. Keep the seed in a cool dry place, out of
direct sunlight. A fungicide may help reduce fungus attack. Moth balls or
other strong-smelling materials like cedar wood may also help reduce insect
attack. Check seed regularly for signs of decay, insect or rodent damage.

The length of time seed can be stored for varies greatly between species.
Some seed can be stored for many months, while other seeds lose their
viability (ability to germinate quickly). If the seed has been stored for more
than one month, a good nursery practice is to test the germination rate to
see if the seed is still good. A poor, but unfortunately common nursery
practice is to sow old seed in many containers, without knowing if it will
germinate — you might be wasting time, labour, and resources. Sow 100
seeds in a shady germination bed and water normally. Count the number of
seeds that germinate, and this will tell you how many you need to put into
each container to achieve one plant per pot. If, for example, only 25 out of
100 seeds germinate, sow four in each container.

Controlling germination

The most important

factor for good
germination is
constant humidity
around the seed.
Seeds can be covered
with sieved soil, sand,
rice hulls or pine
needles, to keep them
moist. A light material
allows the tender roots
and shoots to emerge
without hindrance.
The substrate should
be moist, but not soggy; excess water should drain off. It is often
recommended that you plant large seeds deeply and
small seeds close to the surface. While this is usually sensible, if the
substrate dries out quickly, or water is not always available, you will need to
plant the seeds deeper. If the water pressure in the hose is very high, it may
wash the seeds out, so again, plant the seeds deeper. A good nursery
practice is to carefully control the light, water and shade conditions during
initial seedling growth. Shade helps retain humidity and prevents new
leaves from scorching. This can be achieved in a seed bed as well as directly
in the container.

The substrate should not receive additional fertilizer because this could
increase the risk of diseases such as damping-off. Germinating seedlings
generally receive all nutrients they require from the cotyledons (or in the
case of palms, from the first leaf), that are formed inside of the seed. Thus, a
substrate like sand, which does not contain fertilizer, is generally a good
germinating medium. Damping-off is common with small seedlings and is
recognisable as either decayed seed or, more frequently, decay around the
stem at the soil line. The leaves of the seedling droop as though they need
water, although the substrate is wet, then the stem appears “pinched” and
brown near the base. Eventually, the seedling falls over at the soil line.

Damping-off is caused by fungi which can be present on the surface of the

seed or in the substrate. Seed can be sterilized by immersing it for 30
minutes in a 10% solution of clorox (1 tablespoon of bleach plus 9
tablespoons water). Hydrogen peroxide, a common antiseptic available at the
pharmacy, is also an effective seed sterilant. Its advantages are that it is less
toxic than bleach, and it can increase germination because it softens the
seed coat allowing water and oxygen to enter more easily. Seed is soaked
directly in the antiseptic for up to four hours. With both bleach and
hydrogen peroxide, some experimentation may be necessary to find the most
effective solution strength and soaking time. A 30 minute soak with hot (just
too hot to touch comfortably — definitely not boiling) water also works well
on seed. The substrate can be sterilized by wetting the area well with water
then covering the area with a black plastic sheet for several days while it
stands in abundant sunshine. The heat kills bacteria, fungi, and weed
seeds. You can sterilize sand by washing it several times until the wash
water appears perfectly clear.

When deciding whether sterilization is necessary, first determine whether

seedling growth is being harmed by something living in the soil by carefully
examining the type of damage to the plant. Is the damage at the soil line or
at the roots? If yes, then sterilization may be necessary. Test the different
methods to determine if seedling growth really improves. A good nursery
practice is to carefully recognize the type of damage on the seedling, and
control the specific problem with the right method for that particular pest.
Remember that sterilization of the substrate can also kill beneficial fungi,
bacteria and insects. Certain bacteria and fungi are necessary to break
down organic matter or help plants better absorb nutrients. Many insects
too are useful because they eat other insects that eat plants.

Direct sowing versus seed beds

Most nurseries use seed beds to germinate

seeds. In fact, many nursery manuals
recommend using them for all seedlings and
give specific instructions on how to build
‘beautiful’ seed beds. We take a different
approach. We strongly recommend sowing
the seed directly in the container, and using
germination beds only in special cases. We
do so because we believe that this is best for
seedling growth.

Some of the common problems with seed beds are that:

• pricking out almost always results in root deformities

• when plants are left in the seed bed too long (which often happens),
they produce long roots that are easily damaged or twisted when
pricked out
• many seedlings suffer a ‘shock’ when they are transplanted from seed
beds — their growth is slowed for 1–4 weeks before they begin to show
visible new growth
 • pricking out is often done by staff with little nursery experience, and
even people with experience often prick out incorrectly, and
• paying people by the number of plants pricked out in one day gives no
incentive to prick out correctly.

When to direct sow seed

Careful control of water, light and nutrients is required during germination

and during the first weeks of seedling growth. Directly sowing the seeds in
the container saves time, labour and money, because the extra step of
preparing a seed bed and transplanting is eliminated. Even if it takes a little
longer to plant small seed directly in the containers or if they have to be
moved and resown, this is easier and cheaper than pricking out. Direct
sowing allows undisturbed seedling growth and thus reduces stress for the
seedling. In a well managed nursery, seedlings can almost always be directly
sown!

When you are direct sowing, follow these good nursery practices:

• use only fresh and ripe seed

• pre-treat seed, if necessary, to speed up germination
• prepare containers and shade in advance
• mix small seed with sand or rice hulls, or use a bottle with a screen
top (like a salt shaker, but larger), to make dispersing it easier
• test seed for viability before sowing. If less than 70% germinate, plant
more than one seed per bag. Throw away any extra seedlings in each
pot. This is a small price to pay to avoid root deformities.

Watering

Although it’s a simple fact that plants need water, watering itself can be a
little tricky. Consistent watering will produce the best results. You may also
want to consider drip irrigation or a soaker hose, especially if you have a
large garden. This can save up to 60% of the water used by sprinkler
systems and will ensure that your plants are watered without getting their
leaves wet, which will help prevent disease problems.

You’ll know if you’ve over watered if the soil around the plant stem is
soaked. Mold or moss growing on the top of your soil is another dead
giveaway as is plants with wilting, yellowing or dead leaf margins.

Too little water has a different set of symptoms: wilting of plants, brown or
dead leaves, stunted growth (see Watering Guidelines).

Besides direct observation, you can also purchase a moisture meter to help
measure whether roots are too wet or too dry.
If you’re watering newly planted seeds, be careful to gently sprinkle water on
them. Don’t use a torrent from a hose or a bucket that has enough force to
mistakenly wash away seeds or cause them to clump together.

Know your soil

Different soil types have different watering needs. However, you don’t need
to be a soil scientist to know how to water properly. The following tips are
provided by the USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service:

• Loosen the soil around plants so it can quickly absorb water and
nutrients.
• Use a 1 to 2-inch protective layer of mulch on the soil surface above
the root area. Cultivating and mulching reduce evaporation and soil
erosion.

Clay soil: Add organic material such as compost or peat moss. Till or spade
to help loosen the soil. Since clay soil absorbs water very slowly, water only
as fast as the soil absorbs the water.

Sandy soil: Add organic material to supplement sandy soil. Otherwise, the
water can run through it so quickly that plants won’t be able to absorb it.

Loam soil: The best kind of soil. It’s a combination of sand, silt, and clay.
Loam absorbs water readily and stores it for plants to use.

Foliar feeding

Foliar feeding is a technique of feeding plants by applying liquid fertilizer

directly to their leaves.[1] Plants are able to absorb essential elements
through their leaves.[2] The absorption takes place through their stomata
and also through their epidermis. Transport is usually faster through the
stomata, but total absorption may be as great through the epidermis. Plants
are also able to absorb nutrients through their bark.

Foliar feeding was earlier thought to damage tomatoes, but has become
standard practice.

Ocean-based sources

A popular version of the feeding is to use sea-based plant mixes, especially

kelp, which contains many of the fifty "trace nutrients"; the more such
nutrients are needed, the harder it is to balance them within the soil. Kelp
also contains some hormones considered good for the development of the
plants' leaves, flowers and fruit, of interest to organic gardeners who reject
artificial hormone applications.

Effectiveness

H.B. Tukey was head of Michigan State University (MSU) Department of

Horticulture in the 1950s. Working with S. H. Wittwer, they proved
conclusively that foliar feeding is effective. Radioactive phosphorus and
potassium were applied to foliage.[3] A Geiger counter was used to observe
absorption, movement and nutrient utilization. The nutrients were
transported at the rate of about one foot per hour to all parts of the plants.
[4] Juice from plant leaves can be tested with a refractometer. If after feeding
the amount of light refracted significantly rises, at least some nutrients have
been absorbed. A spray enhancer can help nutrients stick to the leaf and
then penetrate the leaves' cuticle.

Foliar application has been shown to avoid the problem of leaching-out in

soils and prompts a quick reaction in the plant. Of the micronutrients, foliar
application of phosphorus, zinc and iron brings the greatest benefit in
comparison with addition to soil where phosphorus becomes fixed in a form
inaccessible to the plant[5] and where zinc and iron are less available.

Usage

Foliar feeding is generally done in the early morning or late evening,

preferably at temperatures below 24°C (75°F), since heat causes the pores
on some species' leaves to close.

Pest Management

It is important to develop an understanding of both key and minor (or

occasional) pests that are found in crops in your area. Examples of common
insect pests and diseases found in vegetable crops are listed in Table 1 and
within resources found under Vegetable Resources at the end of the
factsheet.

Table 1. Common insect pests and diseases of vegetables (will vary between
crops and regions)
Insect Pests Diseases

Major Minor Major Minor/sporadic

Heliothis Rutherglen bugs Sclerotinia Anthracnose

Diamondback Cutworm, loopers, Tomato spotted Botritis (major in

moth (brassicas cluster wilt virus onions in some
only) caterpillars areas)
Silverleaf whitefly Wireworm & false Powdery mildew Fusarium (major
wireworm in cucurbits in
some areas)
Western flower Leafhoppers Downy mildew Rhizoctonia
thrips (WFT)
(when virus
present)
Tomato or onion Thrips (when Mosaic viruses Pythium
thrips (when virus absent)
virus levels high)
Aphids (when Aphids (when Alternaria
virus levels high) virus levels low)

It is equally important to know and understand the management options

that are available to you as a grower. As more ‘tools’ become available, it is
important to know when and how they can be used, and what effect they
will have on the management of your pests. The knowledge that is developed
about both the pest and the management tools available is also largely
dependent on the local area and the experience you gain on your own farm.
What works on one part of your farm may, for some reason, not work on
another, and what works for your neighbour may not be the most
appropriate option for you. The ideas behind IPM are based around knowing
your ‘enemy’ and understanding the ‘weapons’ at your disposal.

Prevention

Where possible, it is preferable to prevent pest problems rather than manage

them after they arrive – prevention is always better than cure. What
measures you use will depend on your particular situation and what are
your most serious pests. The following are some prevention strategies that
can be important for vegetables:

1. From the available varieties, select ones that have resistance to or

tolerance of important diseases or insect pests in your area.

2. Seeds and seedlings can be a source of pests (including: insects,

diseases, weeds) use certified seed, know your nursery’s
management practices and inspect seedlings for pests. If you are
using biological control agents, for example, this includes knowing
and understanding the effects of chemical residues left from nursery
pesticide applications on seedlings.

3. If possible, minimize susceptible crops in the ground during periods

of high pest pressure.
 4. Irrigating to minimise the period of leaf wetness will reduce foliar
diseases.

5. When foliar diseases are present avoid working in the crops while
foliage is wet to reduce spread.

6. Optimal nutrition – avoiding excess nitrogen will reduce crop

susceptibility to some fungal diseases.

7. Remove weeds from within and around cropping areas particularly if

western flower thrips (WFT) and tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV),
are a problem, or the weeds are known hosts of crop diseases or
insect pests; e.g. sow thistles are hosts of lettuce necrotic yellows
virus and brassica weeds are hosts of a range of brassica diseases
and insect pests.

8. Chipping out and removing (roguing) diseased plants will reduce the
source of host plants that assist in spreading infection to healthy
plants. Once chipped, the plants need to be properly destroyed:
buried, bagged or removed from site.

9. Cultivating paddocks immediately after harvest, or if crop is

abandoned for some reason, will reduce the harbouring potential for
pests, and thus reduce their potential to spread to other plantings
on your farm.

10. Use crop records to identify factors or management practices that

may be encouraging or discouraging pests. Because IPM is
knowledge-based and relies on local experience, this information will
improve your ability to use IPM effectively in subsequent seasons, by

allowing you to see what did and didn’t work.

Self-Check 2.1-2
True or False
Write TRUE if the statement is correct and false if it is incorrect
1. From the available varieties, select ones that have resistance to or
tolerance of important diseases or insect pests in your area.

2. Seeds and seedlings can be a source of pests

3. If possible, minimize susceptible crops in the ground during periods of

high pest pressure.
4. It is equally important to know and understand the management
options that are available to you as a grower.

5. As more ‘tools’ become available, it is important to know when and

how they can be used, and what effect they will have on the
management of your pests.
Answer Key 2.1-2
1. True 2.
True
3. True
4. True
5. False
If you are going to be a serious gardener, you'll probably need a seed bed
where you can sow the seeds and bring on the seedlings for later
transferring to the final position of the plants (alternatively, sowing in trays
will do just as well for many plants). The main reasons for having a seed bed
are:
 Some young seedlings need less space than the mature plant, so less
of the garden need be committed to a crop until it is really necessary.
 A crop may be started off in the seed bed while its final position has
another crop waiting to be harvested.
It must be noted that not all plant seeds are suitable for starting off in a
seed bed; a large number of plants cannot be successfully transplanted so
these seeds need to be planted in their final location.

Position for a seed bed

A seed bed may be thought of, incorrectly, as a rather unimportant part of

the garden which can be tucked away in some corner. It must be
remembered that seed germination and early growth of any plant has an
important influence on the final quality of the plant - if the seed bed is
shaded by hedges or buildings, the seedlings may grow weak and spindly.
Similarly drainage of the bed is important, seeds generally don't do well if
they become waterlogged (nor if they dry out).

Ideally the seed bed should:

 Be in a open, but sheltered, position with good drainage.
 Be free of perennial weeds as weeding between the small seedlings can
be difficult and time consuming.
 If the garden is a haven for the local pets, it is worthwhile putting wire
netting around the bed.
 Do not use a bed which was used to grow potatoes in the previous
year, any sprouting potatoes left from the crop will be a problem
around the young seedlings.
Preparing the seed bed

The requirement for a seed bed is basically the same as for any vegetable
bed, except that the soil need be only forked to a relatively shallow depth. If
it is a new bed (i.e. never previously used to grow plants), the bed will need
to be dug and prepared as with any new bed - see this other page.

If plants have previously been grown on the bed, the preparation required is
much less as the soil will have been broken up and most stones removed.

The biggest challenge to any gardener is to decide when the soil is suitable
for working - not too dry and not too wet. This depends to some extent on
the type of soil, a clay soil can turn from a sticky mass to hard as rock very
quickly. Choosing the right time is one of the hardest choices, especially for
new gardeners - it is largely a matter of experience with the particular soil
type in the garden.

Assuming the seed bed is established, the likelihood is that there will be
some seedlings in it when you come to prepare it for a new sowing, so any
preparation will just apply to the area you require and care must be taken to
avoid disturbing the existing seedlings. To prepare for a new sowing:
 Lightly fork over, or hoe, the top 5 to 7.5cm (2 to 3 inches) of the bed.
If the bed has not been used for some time, or the soil is very wet, it
may be necessary to leave the soil for a day or two to dry out.
 When the soil is dry enough for it to freely break up, rack the surface
back and forth to give a suitable tilth - some clods may need a hit with
the back of the rack or even breaking up by hand. Larger seeds
generally benefit for a rather coarse tilth while fine seeds need a fine
tilth.
 As you rack back and forth, remove any stones, weeds or other
vegetation. Keep racking to get the surface fairly level.
How to Make a Seedbed

A seedbed is a plot of garden set aside to grow vegetables seeds, which can
later be transplanted. It is the alternative to starting seeds in pots, and it is
best used when you can control the temperature, soil quality and water in
the bed. You can make a seedbed outside or in a greenhouse several months
before you want to plant your garden and flowerbeds.

Part 1 - Choosing a Location

1. Get to know
your climate. If you
have a short vegetable
growing season, you should
make your seedbed inside
a greenhouse. You may
need to bring in soil and
compost from outside into
your greenhouse.
2. Choose a location with
plenty of light. Seeds
require plenty of light, so the seedbed should be placed in an area
with the most consistent light and the fewest shadows.
 3. Pick an area that you can
protect from wind, foraging
animals and flooding. If
these are big risks in your
yard, consider purchasing or
making a small plastic hoop
house in which the seeds can
be protected.
4. Don’t choose a plot where
you grew tubers or had a
heavy weed problem. The tuber roots and the weeds can crowd
out the seedlings.

Part 2 - Creating a Fine Soil

1. Prepare the base soil for your

seedbed. Break up the soil with
a rake. Allow sticky, soaked soil
to dry out before.
2. Amend your soil. Add
compost, if it is sandy or it has
low nutrient value. Add
storebought sandy soil if there
is so much organic matter in
your soil that it sticks together.
 Aim for a consistency of
breadcrumbs in your
final soil mix
3. Clean up the soil before you
place it in your seedbed. Pick
out weeds and debris. Pace the
soil mix in a garden sieve with
one-quarter inch (0.6cm) holes
through which you can shake
the soil.
4. Transport enough soil to fill
8 to 12 inches of soil to your
seedbed location. Spread it
onto the area until it is level.
Use the back of a garden rake
to level and pat it down lightly.
 5. Water the soil to make it firm. Try sprinkling it first to break the
surface tension. Then, water more deeply.

6. Cover the soil with a plastic sheet and leave it for 10 days. Flies
are attracted to fresh soil and they will disappear during this time.
Weed the area if weeds germinate during this process.
 The plastic sheet will serve to warm up the soil for better
germination.

Prepare a slug trap by burying a

small yogurt container so that the
lip is flush with the soil level. Fill
with beer. Slugs will be attracted to
the yeast and will drown in the beer.
[3]

 Check it regularly if you

have problems with slugs.

Part 3 - Planting Seedbeds

1. Create “drills” in the soil with

a hoe. These are small “v”
shaped lines in your seedbed,
which you can use to separate
seedlings.
 Using drills allows you to
recognize the plants amidst
weeds and other plants.

2. Water along the length of the

seedbed. Seeds need moist soil
to
germinate..
 3. Sprinkle seedlings just barely
into the soil along the
drill/row. Plant them
according to the seed package
directions for starting seeds.

4. Rake a thin layer of soil over

the “v” lines so that the level
of the soil is the same as the
rest of the garden. Pat it down
with the other side of your
rake.

5. Label the row.

6. Thin the seedlings after they germinate and start to grow. This
will keep your seedbed from overcrowding before you transplant.
Compost the unwanted seedlings

Using a seed bed

Once the seed bed is ready, choose a day when the soil is moist and little
wind to plant your seeds.
Normally a 'drill' (or number of drills) is created on the surface of the seed
bed - a drill is a shallow depression into the bottom of which seeds are
sown. The drill can be formed either by pulling a hoe or a gardening trowel
(backwards) through the surface of the prepared bed with the earth pulled to
the sides, the depth required varies from seed to seedt. A line stretched
above the soil before drills are made will help keep them straight.

The way the seeds are sown along the bottom of the drills will depend upon
the seed been planted, typically one of three variations will be specified:
 Very thinly - say 2.5cm (1 inch) between seeds.
 Thinly - say 1.2cm (½ inch) between seeds.
 At stations - a number of seeds together at given spacing.
Check on the seed packet (or look here) to determine the appropriate spacing
for particular vegetables. Using more seeds than necessary will just waste
seeds and cause extra thinning later on.

Once the seeds have been sown, they are normally covered by pulling the
back of a rack or hoe over the surface of the bed to fill the drills.

Identify the drill and the seeds sown by putting in a short stick at each end
of each drill and attaching a waterproof label with the name of the plant
marked on it.

Stretching a line between the end sticks above each drill will help keep birds
off the seeds and young seedlings.

Watch out for other pests - for example slugs; young plants are tender and
will provide a good meal for a number of pests.

Self-Check 2.1-3:
True or False
Write TRUE if the statement is correct and False if it is incorrect. Wirte
in a separate sheet of paper.

1. A seed bed may be thought of, incorrectly, as a rather unimportant

part of the garden which can be tucked away in some corner.
2. Seed Bed be remembered that seed germination and early growth of
any plant has an important influence on the final quality of the plant
 3. if the seed bed is shaded by hedges or buildings, the seedlings may
grow strong.
4. Drainage of the bed is important, seeds generally do well if they
become waterlogged
5. Once the seeds have been sown, they are normally covered by pulling
the back of a rack or hoe over the surface of the bed to fill the drills.

Answers Key 2.1-3

1. True
2. True
3. False
4. False 5. True
 Job Sheet 2.1-3
Title: Prepare Seed Bed

Performance Objective:
Given the materials you are ask to prepare seed bed within 4 hours.

Supplies/materials:
 Greenhouse
 Hoop house
 Plastic sheet
 Garden soil
 Compost
 Garden sieve
 Sandy soil
 Rake
 Hoe
 Water
 Yogurt container
 Beer
 Seeds
 Labels

Steps/Procedure:

Choosing a Location

1. Get to know your climate

2. Choose a location with plenty of light.
3. Pick an area that you can protect from wind, foraging animals and
flooding.
4. Don’t choose a plot where you grew tubers or had a heavy weed
problem.

Creating a Fine Soil

1. Prepare the base soil for your seedbed.

2. Amend your soil.
3. Clean up the soil before you place it in your seedbed.
4. Transport enough soil to fill 8 to 12 inches of soil to your seedbed
location.
5. Water the soil to make it firm.
 6. Cover the soil with a plastic sheet and leave it for 10 days.
7. Prepare a slug trap by burying a small yogurt container so that the lip
is flush with the soil level.

Planting Seedbeds

1. Create “drills” in the soil with a hoe.

2. Water along the length of the seedbed.

3. Sprinkle seedlings just barely into the soil along the drill/row.
4. Rake a thin layer of soil over the “v” lines so that the level of the soil is
the same as the rest of the garden.
5. Label the row.
6. Thin the seedlings after they germinate and start to grow.

Assessment Method:

Use the performance criteria checklist

Performance Criteria Checklist for Job Sheet 2.1-3
Did I. . . YES NO
1. Get to know your climate

2. Choose a location with plenty of light.

3. Pick an area that you can protect from wind, foraging

animals and flooding.

4. Don’t choose a plot where you grew tubers or had a heavy

weed problem.

5. Prepare the base soil for your seedbed.

6. Amend your soil.

7. Clean up the soil before you place it in your seedbed.

8. Transport enough soil to fill 8 to 12 inches of soil to your

seedbed location.

9. Water the soil to make it firm.

10. Cover the soil with a plastic sheet and leave it for 10
days.
11. Prepare a slug trap by burying a small yogurt container
so that the lip is flush with the soil level.
12. Create “drills” in the soil with a hoe.

13. Water along the length of the seedbed.

14. Sprinkle seedlings just barely into the soil along the
drill/row.

15. Rake a thin layer of soil over the “v” lines so that the level
of the soil is the same as the rest of the garden.

16. Label the row.

17. Thin the seedlings after they germinate and start to grow.