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JOB AID

COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS

MARINE ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS


Out of all the systems and components that work together to make the engine function properly, the cooling
system of a water-cooled outboard engine is the most important and can be the most challenging to
diagnose.

Both the lubrication system and cooling system are responsible for keeping the engine running, but the
cooling system has a tougher assignment. It ingests all types of water: dirty, gritty, hard, brackish, and salt.
The water passages must contend with debris, contamination, corrosion and deposits. It also has to be
durable enough to survive less than perfect care and maintenance.

Most of us know how these systems work. A water pump impeller moves water through a tube and into the
block and cylinder head. The water exits through a thermostat and heads back out to where it came from.
But between the 'water tube' and 'heads back out,' every engine is different.

We'll explore those differences in this Job Aid and clear up the mysteries inside those passages. We'll also
cover diagnostic tools, diagnostic aids and symptoms/causes. We will discuss engine overheating, and
engine underheating. There will be information regarding cooling system problems and components that fail,
but they don't cause overheating.

Most overheating problems on four-stroke engines are caused by restrictions in their


smaller-than-a-two-stroke-engine coolant passages. The smaller passages are in the cylinder head due to
the presence of valves, intake and exhaust ports. Four-stroke engines run at slightly hotter temperatures –
to prevent oil dilution – and this makes them more prone to hard water deposit buildup. Lack of cooling
system maintenance and saltwater/corrosion problems also contribute to cooling system problems.

COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT


There are several recommended tools and equipment for properly diagnosing an overheating engine. These
are listed in the order of importance:
Marine Test Tank
An engine simply will not develop enough internal temperature if it's not running under a load.
Combustion chamber temperatures will not reach their extremes unless the throttle is open
three quarters to full under a load. And it takes several minutes of run time for the block and cylinder
head to reach these temperatures. Monitoring EBT (engine block temperature) with Dr. H will confirm
this. Honda engines typically run EBT temperatures of 180 °F to 220 °F, so you need to run the engine
long enough to reach this temperature range. The EBT is the block temperature, not the coolant
temperature. You must also monitor the ECT/EMT (engine coolant temperature) temperatures, at the
same time, to determine which ECT/EMT (on engines with multiple ECTs/EMTs) is triggering the alarm.
Dr. H
Not only useful and essential for sensor monitoring, the Data List shows the number of overheat alerts.
You can also use the Snapshot function to capture other useful data when the overheat actually occurs.

©2018 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. — All Rights Reserved Page 1 of 12
First Issue Date: July 2018 PJA54838.2018.07
Water Pressure Gauge
This is a mandatory overheat diagnostic tool. You must know how much water pressure is present in the
engine. Honda engines must have a least 11 psi of water pressure while running under a load. Most
Honda engines with OEM water pressure gauge ports will run approximately 20 ~ 25 psi at higher rpm
and 5 ~ 10 psi at idle, depending on the gauge used.
See the Marine Rigging Guide (Key Switches, Gauges & Panel Indicators section) to determine where
the water pressure port is located on each model.
Digital Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun
The temperature gun is not always necessary, but essential when pinpointing the specific
high-temperature area of the engine.
Clear Tubing and Hose
It may be necessary to substitute the OEM coolant hoses or tubing with clear ones to monitor water flow
and check for air bubbles in the water stream.
Commercially Available Scale and Salt Remover Chemicals
While not a tool, these chemicals can help remove stubborn deposits that can block water flow. These
deposits also insulate the metal surfaces of the coolant passages preventing heat transfer to the flowing
water.

STARTING THE DIAGNOSTIC PROCESS


Refer to the appropriate shop manual, as necessary, for additional information and safety precautions.
Discuss the Problem with the Customer and Check the Engine’s Service History
• Ask the customer to explain exactly when the problem first occurred.
• Is it currently happening?
• What are the conditions?
• What depth and type of water?
• How long does it take the engine to overheat?
• Does the customer flush the engine?
• Does the customer use earmuffs?
• Does the customer know how to use the flushing device? Has the customer read the flushing
instructions in the owner's manual?
• Has the customer (or his neighbor) been working on the engine?
• Always confirm the type of alarm and warning light with the customer.
• When were the thermostats inspected or replaced?
• How old is the water pump impeller?
• Check for applicable Service Bulletins.
Visual Inspection
Look for signs of overheating before heading to the launch. Discolored engine paint turns brown on the
exhaust side of the cylinder head if severely overheated. Check for melted plastic parts or melted wiring.
Customer Involvement
You may have to take a ride in the boat with the customer to see how they are operating the boat or
trimming/tilting the engine.

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COOLING SYSTEM DIAGRAMS
It is important to understand how the water flows through the engine’s cooling system before you start the
diagnostic process.
BF75D • BF90D • BF115A
THERMOSTAT (60 °C)

THERMOSTAT (50 °C)

Check the area behind both


thermostats for sand and
shell deposits and hard
water scale formation.

CYLINDER BLOCK
WATER JACKET

ANODE

VAPOR SEPARATOR

REGULATOR/
RECTIFIER

RELIEF VALVE
CYLINDER HEAD
WATER JACKET

WATER CHECK
HOLE

FLUSH VALVE

MOUNT CASE/GEAR CASE

Failed water pump impeller


debris can be trapped in WATER TUBE
this area, above the oil pan,
underneath the oil pan
gasket. This applies to all
models.

WATER PUMP

WATER SCREEN

©2018 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. Page 3 of 12


BF115D • BF135A • BF150A

Debris in the exhaust


manifold can block water THERMOSTAT A 50 °C (122 °F)
exit through these ports. (For cylinder head)

Debris in this “Y”


connection can THERMOSTAT B 60 °C (140 °F)
impede the water (For cylinder block)
flowing from the
exhaust manifold.
CYLINDER HEAD
COOLING PASSAGE

OIL FILTER
FLANGE BRANCHING
CHAMBER

VAPOR SEPARATOR

INLET
WATER

RETURN
WATER WATER CHECK
HOLE
CYLINDER BLOCK
COOLING PASSAGES
WATER
PUMP RELIEF
WATER VALVE
TUBE
Corrosion in the upper
water tube grommet port
in the oil pan can reduce
water flow and pressure.

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BF200A • BF225A • BF250A

INLET WATER LINE

THERMOSTAT

EXHAUST
MANIFOLD

OUTLET
WATER LINE

WATER JACKET

CYLINDER SLEEVE WATER JACKET RELIEF VALVE

THERMOSTAT

CYLINDER HEAD

EXHAUST EXHAUST MANIFOLD


MANIFOLD

Corrosion in the engine mount case


side ports can restrict water flow
through the 90° rubber hoses attached
to the bottom of each exhaust manifold.
This is the water discharge passage
from the exhaust manifold.

RELIEF VALVE

MOUNT CASE

VAPOR SEPARATOR

RELIEF VALVE
OIL
PAN OVERFLOW

FLUSH VALVE
Corrosion in the upper
water tube grommet port
in the oil pan can reduce
water flow and pressure.
EXTENSION CASE

WATER TUBE
WATER PUMP

WATER SCREEN

©2018 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. Page 5 of 12


COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
Thermostats
The maintenance interval for thermostat inspection is every 200 hours. If the engine is operated in water
with a high calcium content, the thermostat may need to be inspected more frequently. Some
thermostats are slow to respond (lazy). Do not wait until later in the sea trial to focus on the temperature
sensor readings. Watch for rapid temperature spikes as soon as the boat starts getting up to speed.
ECT/EMT Sensors
The following chart lists the overheat alarm trigger temperatures:

Late
Early BF200A
BF75D BF115D BF200A
BF40D BF60A BF75D BF225A
Sensor BF90D BF135A BF225A
BF50D BFP60A BF90D (K1~K3)
(K3~K4) BF150A (A2~K0)
(K0~K2) BF250A
BF100A
ECT2 194 °F 206 °F 165 °F 169 °F 158 °F 194 °F
ECT3 169 °F 178 °F 158 °F 194 °F
ECT4 176 °F
EMT1 194 °F
EMT2 194 °F

The following pages show the locations of the ECT/EMT sensors for BF75D ~ BF250A models.

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BF75D

ECT SENSOR 2

ECT SENSOR 3

BF115D • BF135A • BF150A

ECT SENSOR 4

ECT SENSOR 1
ECT SENSOR 2

ECT SENSOR 3

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BF200A • BF225A • BF250A

ECT SENSOR 2 /
EMT SENSOR 1

ECT SENSOR 3 / ECT SENSOR 1/


EMT SENSOR 2 EBT SENSOR

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Restricted Passages
Restricted coolant passages usually cause overheating above a certain rpm. Most engines will run fine
with a deposit-restricted cooling system up to 3500 to 4000 rpm, under a load. Any speed above this
range will cause the alarm to sound.
Necessary Pressure
The engine must develop at least 11 psi of water pressure under a load. An engine can overheat even
with sufficient pressure if there are blockages or restrictions below the block itself.
It’s not the engine!
Some overheating problems are not engine related. There are boat designs that increase overheating
due to the way the water flows from under the hull. Single-engine catamaran hulls are particularly
susceptible because of the turbulent nature of the water flowing through the sponsons. Some pontoon
boats can create similar turbulence. The same turbulence can occur on flats boats with a tunnel hull.
Almost all tunnel-hull flats boats are jack plate equipped; ask the customer how high they run the jack
plate.
If you suspect a flow problem from the hull, and it is not an obstruction, run at speed while monitoring the
water pressure gauge and turn the engine hard to port or starboard. This might force more water into the
inlet screens and cause an increase in water pressure.
What’s on the bottom of the boat?
Check the bottom of the hull and the lower transom. Transducers, water inlets, pick-ups, or any other
protrusion or obstruction can disrupt the water flowing from under the hull. Obstructions at or near the
centerline of the engine can cause flow problems to the water inlet screens.
Marine growth can contribute to many common overheating problems. Grass, barnacles and mussels
can severely impact the water flow to the intake screens and affect boat performance. Just a small patch
of marine life three or four feet forward of the gear case can cause an overheating problem. Barnacles
and mussels have also been known to attach behind the water intake screens. Always check to ensure
there is a clear path from the intake screens to the base of water pump. These issues usually appear late
in the boating season or when the customer has not used the boat for an extended period of time. Loss
of boat speed and not reaching normal wide open throttle (WOT) rpm can be good indicators there is
something growing on the bottom of the hull.
Even something as simple as a dock line hanging off the bow of the boat can cause an overheat at high
speed. It does not have to reach the prop to cause a problem.
Underheating
Not all cooling system problems are the result of overheating. Stuck (open) thermostats can cause
problems. Carbureted engines that do not develop sufficient operating temperatures will have a
tendency to run lean at idle and lower rpm for the same reason they need a choke. They will hesitate and
backfire, and never seem to warm up. Fuel-injected engines are not as susceptible because the ECU
adjusts the fuel mixture based on the engine temperature.
Four-stroke engines that run too cool never create enough heat from combustion to completely vaporize
all the atomized fuel in the combustion chamber. This non-vaporized, liquid fuel goes right past the
piston rings and into the crankcase causing oil dilution. Left unchecked, this diluted fuel can cause rapid
wear of the cylinder walls, piston rings, valve guides and cam lobes.
Service Bulletins
There are several Service Bulletins that are related to cooling system problems. Always check the
bulletin list before proceeding with any diagnostics.

©2018 American Honda Motor Co., Inc. Page 9 of 12


COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS BY MODEL
BF7.5 • BF8A • BF100 (10 HP)
These models have one area of concern in their cooling system: a deteriorated upper water tube seal
ring. This causes insufficient water flow to the block and is easy to correct by replacing the ring. See the
Vertical Shaft Illustration in the Parts Catalog for details.
BF25 ~ BF50
These engines rarely experience engine overheating.
They have an extra inverted water inlet under the anti-ventilation plate that must be blocked off using
tape when running the engine on a motor flusher (earmuffs). Failure to do so will ventilate the water
pump and burn the impeller. See the Owner's Manual for additional information.
Severe impeller overheating/failure will damage or deform the plastic lower water pump housing. Failure
to replace this damaged part will cause overheating.
BF60A
These engines have no history of cooling system problems. The water jacket cover on the side of the
block may leak from high-hour saltwater exposure and require replacement of the plate and seal. See
the Cooling System section of the Shop Manual for removal instructions.
BF75A • BF90A
Thermostats stuck in the open position can cause lean stumble at low speeds. See “Underheating” on
page 9.
Calcium deposits can clog the passages around the cylinders over time and cause overheating above
4000 rpm. This can occur on engines with over 600 hours of operating time.
BF75D • BF90D • BF100A
Heavy thermostat deposits from calcium or saltwater will restrict the thermostat opening or flow and
cause overheating.
The plastic thermostat covers on early models can warp and cause water leaks down the right side of
the block.
The K3 models have smaller diameter water pump impellers and can lose water pressure at high boat
speeds on certain boat applications. Verify this with a water pressure gauge.
BF115A • BF130A
See Outboard Motor Service Bulletins 27 and 54.
BF115D • BF135A • BF150A
Outboard Motor Service Bulletin #68 addresses thermostat cover and cam chain case corrosion and
water leaks.
The upper water tube grommet cavity in the oil pan can corrode in saltwater. This causes a reduction in
the cavity inner diameter and a restriction in the water tube grommet resulting in a substantial drop in
water pressure. See the Propeller/Gear Case Oil Case section in the Shop Manual.
High-hour use (2000+ hours) in saltwater can erode the oil pan and engine-mount case around the
exhaust port. Exhaust pressure enters the cooling system and causes overheating. Always apply
Hondabond HT to metal gaskets that seal any exhaust chamber.
Stuck (open) thermostats will cause a drop in overall water pressure and reduce the water flow to the
exhaust manifold. This causes ECT3 to trigger the overheat alarm.

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The exhaust manifold has no thermostat. The water flow through the manifold is controlled by the two
small diameter water outlet elbow fittings at the top of the exhaust manifold. Any foreign object that is
small enough to enter the manifold, but too large to flow through the outlet pipes, the smaller outlet
tubing and the plastic Y-fitting, can reduce outlet flow and cause an ECT3 overheat alarm.
There are two large o-rings at the base of the exhaust manifold that keep the water in and the exhaust
out. If these o-rings leak, exhaust pressure can enter the cooling system and cause an overheating
problem.
BF200A ~ BF250A
A faulty (slow to respond) thermostat problem seems to be unique to V6 engines. It is rare, but it can still
occur.
Coolant water exits the engine through the 90° water outlet tubes at the bottom of the exhaust manifolds.
The water then flows into the engine-mount case and into the extension housing. The cavities in the side
of the engine-mount case where the tubes attach can corrode in saltwater. This causes a reduction of
the inner diameter of these cavities and restricts the water flow out of the engine.
High-hour (2000 +) use in saltwater can erode the oil pan and engine-mount case around the exhaust
ports. Exhaust pressure enters the cooling system and causes overheating. Always apply
Hondabond HT to metal gaskets that seal any exhaust chamber.
The upper water tube grommet cavity in the oil pan can corrode in saltwater. This causes a reduction in
the cavity inner diameter and a restriction in the water tube seal resulting in a substantial drop in water
pressure.
All Models
Failure to install the rubber grommet or seal just aft of the lower water pump housing can cause exhaust
pressure to leak into the water pump and disrupt water flow to the engine.
Incorrect water pump impeller liner (the metal cup) installation will cause improper water flow from the
pump housing. Always check the water tube to impeller housing grommet for proper alignment.
If the engine has an aluminum lower water pump housing (base), always check it carefully in saltwater
applications. Erosion can occur in the area around the vertical shaft. This will cause a loss of suction
beneath the pump.
All Models 25 HP and Larger
The first area where water flows from the water tube is to the shallow cavity on top of the oil pan to cool
the exhaust port. The oil pan gasket covers this cavity so there is not much space here. This is where
broken water pump impeller chunks collect, and this restricts the water flow to the engine.
Low water flow or pressure can be caused by a restriction between the water pump and the
engine-mount case. There is an easy way to check for a restriction here, on engines with a fresh water
flush hose. Remove the thermostat(s). Run water into the engine through the water intake screens using
earmuffs. Water should flow freely from the thermostat ports once the block's coolant passages are full.
If little or no water is exiting these ports, connect the garden hose to the fresh water flush. If water now
flows, there is a restriction somewhere between the water pump and the engine-mount case. The fresh
water flush connects to the side of the engine-mount case.

NMEA 2000® AND COOLING SYSTEMS


NMEA 2000 Engine Temperature Protocol
The EBT or ECT1 provides the engine temperature signal to the NMEA 2000 display/head unit. This
may create some confusion and concern, especially for customers who interpret this temperature as a
coolant temperature and an overheating condition (Parameter Group Number PGN:127489).

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Display/Head Unit Parameters
With some NMEA 2000 display/head units, a normal EBT value that exceeds the unit's pre-set
parameter can trigger an overheat alarm. This will require a parameter adjustment using the software
built into the display/head unit. One example of this type of display/head unit is the Murphy CAN J193.

CHEMICAL ENGINE FLUSHING


Calcium and Hard Water Deposits
Commercially available products are very effective for removing these deposits.
To circulate the solution through the coolant passages:

1. Place a large container under the engine and fill it with the solution.

2. Connect a bilge pump to the motor flusher (earmuffs) and immerse into the solution.

3. Remove the thermostats and replace the thermostat covers.

4. Run the solution through the engine for an hour or two until the solution coming out of the engine
starts to clear up.

5. Flush with water, and then reinstall the thermostats.


Salt, Sand and Shell Particles
Use a commercially available salt remover and follow the manufacturer's instructions for circulating the
solution through the engine.

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