ISDe 270 Engine-En

ISDe Series Euro IV Engines
Contents
Engine
General ....................................................................................................................................................5
I. Notices to engine service ....................................................................................................5
II. Assembly identification .......................................................................................................6
III. Technical parameters .......................................................................................................16
IV. Engine tightening torque ...................................................................................................23
Fault diagnosis .....................................................................................................................................28
I. Troubleshooting steps .......................................................................................................28
II. Troubleshooting chart .......................................................................................................29
Engine block .........................................................................................................................................75
I. Replacement of engine lug ...............................................................................................75
II. Replacement of engine front suspension ..........................................................................78
III. Removal and refitting of engine rear bracket ....................................................................83
IV. Replacement of engine assembly .....................................................................................86
Cylinder head ........................................................................................................................................95
I. Replacement of rocker chamber cover and gasket ...........................................................95
II. Adjustment of valve clearance ........................................................................................100
III. Replacement of rocker chamber housing .......................................................................104
IV. Removal and refitting of cylinder head with valve assembly ...........................................108
V. Replacement of rocker arm and its shaft ........................................................................120
VI. Replacement of jumper pressure plate ...........................................................................126
VII. Replacement of push rod assembly ................................................................................129
VIII. Replacement of valve, valve spring and valve stem oil seal ...........................................132
IX. Replacement of valve seat ring .......................................................................................139
X. Replacement of cylinder head assembly ........................................................................142
Cylinder block and flywheel housing ...............................................................................................149
I. Replacement of rubber shock absorber assembly ..........................................................149
II. Replacement of front gear chamber cover ......................................................................152
III. Replacement of front oil seal...........................................................................................158
IV. Replacement of rear oil seal ...........................................................................................163
V. Replacement of rear gear chamber ................................................................................169
VI. Replacement of crankshaft rear end wear-resistant bushing ..........................................178
VII. Replacement of crankcase ventilation pipe .....................................................................183
VIII. Replacement of flywheel assembly .................................................................................186
IX. Replacement of flywheel housing assembly ...................................................................194
X. Replacement of cylinder block ........................................................................................206
1
XI. Replacement of cylinder block reinforcement plate .........................................................224
Timing gear mechanism and camshaft ............................................................................................227
I. Replacement of camshaft and camshaft timing gear ......................................................227
II. Replacement of tappet ....................................................................................................238
Crankshaft and piston connecting rod assembly ...........................................................................247
I. Replacement of crankshaft and main bearing bush ........................................................247
II. Replacement of piston connecting rod ............................................................................262
III. Replacement of piston cooling nozzle .............................................................................283
Starting and charging system ...........................................................................................................287
I. General ...........................................................................................................................287
II. Replacement of generator assembly ..............................................................................288
III. Replacement of starter assembly....................................................................................292
Lubricating system ............................................................................................................................294
I. Overview .........................................................................................................................294
II. Service & replacement of oil pressure regulator (main oil duct) ......................................303
III. Replacement of oil pump ................................................................................................306
IV. Replacement of oil suction pipe (fitted on cylinder block) ...............................................313
V. Replacement of oil filling pipe .........................................................................................316
VI. Replacement of oil pipe ..................................................................................................318
VII. Replacement of oil & oil filter (rotary-mounted) ...............................................................320
VIII. Replacement of oil filter head adapter ............................................................................323
IX. Replacement of oil cooler................................................................................................326
X. Replacement of engine oil heater ...................................................................................331
XI. Calibration of oil dipstick .................................................................................................334
XII. Replacement of oil dipstick tube .....................................................................................336
XIII. Replacement of oil sump.................................................................................................339
Fuel system.........................................................................................................................................346
I. Overview .........................................................................................................................346
II. Fuel system exhaust .......................................................................................................355
III. Replacement of fuel pump ..............................................................................................356
IV. Replacement of fuel feed pump ......................................................................................364
V. Service of engine fuel electric heater ..............................................................................366
VI. Replacement of fuel filter (rotary-mounted) .....................................................................370
VII. Replacement of fuel filter head .......................................................................................373
VIII. Replacement of fuel filter head bracket ...........................................................................377
IX. Replacement of fuel return pipe ......................................................................................381
X. Replacement of fuel supply pipe .....................................................................................384
XI. Service of injector ...........................................................................................................387
2
XII. Replacement of injector supply pipe (high pressure) ......................................................399
XIII. Replacement of fuel pressure relief valve .......................................................................402
XIV. Replacement of fuel rail ..................................................................................................406
XV. Replacement of fuel rail supply pipe (high pressure) ......................................................410
XVI. Replacement of fuel tank assembly ................................................................................413
Intake, exhaust and turbocharger system........................................................................................417
I. General ...........................................................................................................................417
II. Replacement of air compressor ......................................................................................441
III. Replacement of air jumper pipe ......................................................................................447
IV. Replacement of intake joint .............................................................................................449
V. Replacement of intake manifold ......................................................................................451
VI. Replacement of Cold start auxiliary device .....................................................................457
VII. Replacement of intake pipe joint .....................................................................................460
VIII. Replacement of dry exhaust manifold .............................................................................462
IX. Replacement of turbocharger..........................................................................................465
X. Replacement of turbocharger oil return pipe ...................................................................474
XI. Replacement of turbocharger oil feed pipe .....................................................................477
XII. Exhaust bypass valve actuator of the turbocharger ........................................................479
XIII. Replacement of exhaust catalytic converter....................................................................485
XIV. Replacement of nozzle urea feed pipe ............................................................................487
XV. Replacement of urea discharge pipe ..............................................................................489
XVI. Replacement of urea return pipe .....................................................................................491
XVII. Replacement of urea level sensor...................................................................................493
XVIII. Replacement of urea filter ...............................................................................................495
XIX. Replacement of air/oil filter..............................................................................................497
XX. Replacement of urea tank ...............................................................................................499
Cooling system ...................................................................................................................................501
I. General ...........................................................................................................................501
II. Replacement of water inlet joint ......................................................................................507
III. Replacement of coolant heater .......................................................................................511
IV. Service of water pump ....................................................................................................515
V. Replacement of coolant thermostat ................................................................................520
VI. Replacement of driving belt for cooling fan .....................................................................525
VII. Replacement of cooling fan belt tensioner ......................................................................528
VIII. Replacement of fan idler pulley .......................................................................................532
IX. Replacement of on-off fan clutch ....................................................................................536
X. Replacement of belt driving fan hub ................................................................................540
XI. Replacement of fan shroud assembly .............................................................................544
3
XII. Fan spacer sleeve and belt pulley...................................................................................546
Engine electronic control system .....................................................................................................550
I. General ...........................................................................................................................550
II. Removal and refitting of electronic control module(ECM) ...............................................552
III. Barometric pressure sensor ............................................................................................555
IV. Engine coolant level sensor ............................................................................................557
V. Engine coolant temperature sensor ................................................................................559
VI. Throttle pedal or control lever position sensor ................................................................562
VII. Intake manifold pressure/temperature sensor .................................................................566
VIII. Checking of exhaust braking “ON/OFF” switch ...............................................................569
IX. Camshaft position sensor................................................................................................571
X. Crankshaft position sensor..............................................................................................573
XI. Checking of fan control switch ........................................................................................576
XII. Replacement of rail pressure sensor ..............................................................................578
XIII. Removal and refitting of inlet and outlet temperature sensor ..........................................580
XIV. Removal and refitting of urea nozzle ...............................................................................582
XV. Removal and refitting of NOx sensor assembly ..............................................................585
XVI. Replacement of urea charging control unit .....................................................................588
4
Engine
General
I. Notices to engine service
(i) Special recommendations
Do the following work at first:
1. Clean major components and their surroundings;
2. Check that the power is switched off;
3. Make marks on pipes and harnesses if necessary;
4. Protect all pipe orifices against entry of foreign matters;
5. Depressurize before removing any pressure pipe;
6. If any liquid is spattered on the engine block, remove it immediately with recommended
cleaning products.
(ii) Preparations before assembly
1. Carefully clean and check all parts;
2. Unpack the bearing only when it is ready to assemble it. Never remove the protective grease on
it;
3. Any old oil seal and locking plate cannot be reused, and should be replaced with new ones for
assembly;
4. For assembly, use special driver instead of beating it with copper bar, so as to avoid the entry of
foreign matters to crankcase and bearing;
5. Assemble the lubricated parts at first;
6. Apply lubricating grease to the lips of sealing rings;
7. For interference assembly, heat with hot air rather than flame;
(iii) Fastening, locking, sealing and gluing products
1. Before the assembly, carefully clean the product surfaces and remove all residues left by the
old products;
2. The threaded parts should be wiped clean, tapped, and if necessary, cleaned with proper
products;
(iv) Application of pure spare parts
Always use the recommended spare parts and pay attention to the labels on the packages;
1. Surface finish;
2. Operating temperature;
3. Time limits for chemical reaction and dry treatment, etc.;
4. Storage life.
Follow the mounting method to guarantee service quality
Notices to engine service 5

II. Assembly identification

(i) Nameplate identification
Name of Dongfeng Cummins engine

The name of Dongfeng Cummins engine is as
shown in the figure.
Nameplate of fuel injection pump

The nameplate of Bosch fuel injection pump is
on the fuel pump. It contains the following
information which is helpful for repair or
replacement.
Production serial number for fuel injection
pump
1). Production serial number for fuel
injection pump
2). Manufacturer code
3). Bosch part number
4). Date code
ECM nameplate
The nameplate of electronic control module
(ECM) indicates information on ECM and
about how to program it. It is on the ECM. The
following information can be obtained from it.
1). ECM part number (PN)
2). ECM production serial number (SN)
3). ECM date code (DC)
4). Engine production serial number
(ESN)
5). ECM code for identifying the built-in
software
Note: Remember to offer the ECM
code of engine when
contacting with Dongfeng
Cummins authorized service
station.
6 Assembly identification
Nameplate of air compressor

Note: Not all engines are equipped
with air compressors.
The nameplate of Dongfeng Cummins brand
air compressor (identified by logo of Cummins
company) is usually located at the side of the
air compressor. The nameplate contains the
following information which is helpful for repair
or replacement.
1). Cummins part number
2). Production serial number
3). Date code
(ii) Engine view

The figure below shows main engine external components, filter and other positions for service and
maintenance.
Assembly identification 7
Front view of ISDe series engine
1. Air inlet 5. Fuel filter 11. Belt tensioner

2. Electronic control module (ECM) 6. Shock absorber 12. Generator
3. Engine speed/position sensor 7. Mounting position for fan or PTO 13. Water outlet joint
(camshaft) drive 14. Coolant temperature sensor
4. Engine speed/position sensor 8. Mounting position for starter
(crankshaft) 9. Water inlet pipe joint
10. Water pump
Left view of ISDe series four-cylinder engine
1. Air intake pipe pressure/temperature sensor 10. Fuel inlet

2. Fuel common rail pressure reducing valve 11. Fuel filter
3. Fuel rail 12. Oil sump drain plug
4. Fuel rail pressure sensor 13. Oil dipstick/oil level sensor (optional)
5. Air compressor coolant pipe 14. Electronic control module (ECM)
6. Air compressor 15. Barometric pressure sensor
7. Bosh fuel pump 16. Air inlet
8. Flywheel housing 17. Coolant outlet
9. Fuel return
Left view of ISDe series six-cylinder engine
1. Fuel rail pressure reducing valve 10. Fuel filter

2. Air intake pipe pressure/temperature sensor 11. Oil sump drain plug
3. Air compressor cooling pipe 12. Oil dipstick/oil level sensor
4. Air compressor 13. Electronic control module
5. ECM mounting plate 14. Barometric pressure sensor
6. Bosh fuel pump 15. Air inlet
7. Flywheel housing 16. Coolant outlet
8. Fuel return port 17. Fuel rail pressure sensor
9. Fuel inlet 18. Fuel rail
Rear view of ISDe series engine
1. Air compressor coolant joint 5. Flywheel housing

2. Turbocharger compressor outlet 6. Crankcase breather pipe
3. Turbocharger compressor inlet 7. Cylinder head return (injector) pipe joint
4. Flywheel 8. Engine lug
Right view of ISDe series four-cylinder engine
1. Water outlet joint 6. Oil sump drain plug

2. Generator 7. Turbocharger exhaust port
3. Oil pressure switch 8. Starter motor
4. Water inlet pipe joint 9. Flywheel housing
5. Oil filter 10. Turbocharger compressor inlet
Right view of ISDe series six-cylinder engine
1. Water outlet joint 6. Oil sump drain plug

2. Generator 7. Turbocharger exhaust port
3. Oil pressure switch 8. Starter motor
4. Water inlet pipe joint 9. Flywheel housing
5. Oil filter 10. Turbocharger compressor inlet
Top view of ISDe series four-cylinder engine
1. Turbocharger exhaust gas by-pass valve actuator 9. High pressure injector feed pipeline
2. Crankcase breather connecting pipe 10. Oil filler cap
3. Air compressor coolant joint 11. Crankshaft speed indicator ring
4. Intake manifold pressure/temperature sensor 12. Coolant temperature sensor
5. Air compressor 13. Shock absorber
6. Fuel rail 14. Water outlet joint
7. High pressure pump (pump through rail) 15. Exhaust manifold
8. Fuel rail pressure sensor
Top view of ISDe series six-cylinder engine
1. Turbocharger exhaust gas by-pass valve actuator 9. High pressure fuel injector feed pipeline
2. Crankcase breather connecting pipe 10. Oil filler cap
3. Air compressor coolant joint 11. Crankshaft speed indicator ring
4. Intake manifold pressure/temperature sensor 12. Coolant temperature sensor
5. Air compressor 13. Shock absorber
6. Fuel rail 14. Water outlet joint
7. High pressure oil feed pump (pump through rail) 15. Exhaust manifold
8. Fuel rail pressure sensor
III. Technical parameters

(i) Technical parameters for assembly
Technical parameters for ISDe series four-cylinder engine
Manufacturer Dongfeng Cummins Engine Co., Ltd.
Emission standard Euro IV
Electrically controlled high pressure common rail, in-line, 4-cylinder,
Type
turbocharged
Model ISDe140 40 ISDe160 40 ISDe180 40
Max. permissible
2,850 (r/min)
no-load speed
Max. overspeed
4,200 rpm
capacity (max. 15 s)
Displacement (L) 4.5
Rated speed 2,500 r/min
Rated power 103 kW 118 kW 132 kW
Max. torque (N·m) 550 600 700
Max. torque speed
1400
(rpm)
Bore/stroke (mm) 6-107×124 (mm×mm)
Valve clearance Intake valve: 0.254 mm; exhaust valve: 0.508 mm
Engine idle speed 600~800 rpm
Work sequence 1-5-3-6-2-4
Direction of
Clockwise (viewed from front end)
crankshaft rotation
Highest altitude
before performance 3,048 m
degradation
Oil brought out
(open-type crankcase Less than 2 g/h
ventilation system)
Fuel: use the diesel fuel that meets the emission standard of phase IV, and choose the proper diesel fuel
designation according to the temperature
16 Technical parameters

Type
turbocharged
Model ISDe200 40
Max. permissible
2,850 (r/min)
no-load speed
Max. overspeed
4,200 rpm
Rated power 140 kW
Max. torque (N·m) 740
Max. torque speed
1,400
(rpm)
Direction of crankshaft
rotation
Highest altitude before
performance 3,048 m
degradation
Oil brought out
ventilation system)
Technical parameters 17
Technical parameters for ISDe series six-cylinder engine

Type
turbocharged
Max. permissible
2,850 (r/min)
no-load speed
Max. overspeed
4,200 rpm
Max. torque (N·m) 700 800 900
Max. torque speed
1,400
(rpm)
rotation
performance 3,048 m
degradation
Oil brought out
ventilation system)
Fuel: use the diesel fuel that meets the emission standard of phase Ⅳ, and choose the proper diesel
fuel designation according to the temperature

Type
turbocharged
Max. permissible
2,850 (r/min)
no-load speed
Max. overspeed
4,200 rpm
Max. torque (N·m) 950 970 1020
Max. torque speed
1,400
(rpm)
Valve clearance Intake valve: 0.254mm; exhaust valve: 0.508mm
rotation
performance 3,048 m
degradation
Oil brought out
ventilation system)

Type
turbocharged
Model ISDe300 40
Max. permissible
2,850 (r/min)
no-load speed
Max. overspeed
4,200 rpm
Rated power 221 kW
Max. torque (N·m) 1,100
Max. torque speed
1,400
(rpm)
Bore/stroke (mm) 6-107×124(mm×mm)
rotation
performance 3,048 m
degradation
Oil brought out
ventilation system)
(ii) Engine service & adjustment data

Intake valve clearance 0.254mm
Exhaust valve clearance 0.508mm
Min. oil pressure at idling 69kPa
Min. oil pressure at rated speed 207kPa
Opening pressure of engine lubricating oil regulating 352kPa
valve
Oil filter pressure difference when the by-pass valve is 345kPa
open
Fuel temperature range at injection pump inlet -30~80℃
Engine idle speed 600~800 r/min
Min. engine starting speed 150 r/min
Oil temperature 120 ℃
Standard adjusting range of thermostat (coolant) 83~95 ℃
Max. permissible operating temperature (coolant) 100 ℃
Recommended min. operating temperature (coolant) 71 ℃
Max. coolant pressure 200 kPa
Recommended min. pressure of pressure cover 50 kPa
Max. temperature of coolant in top water tank 100 ℃
Min. temperature at the start of thermostat initializing 81 ℃
Max. temperature at the start of thermostat initializing 83 ℃
(iii) Drive belt tension

Belt tension range
SAE belt spec. Belt tension spec. & P/N Belt tension (new)
(used) *
Ratchet
Burroughs N N
model
0.380in 3822524 620 270~490
0.440in 3822524 620 270~490
1/2in 3822524 ST-1138 620 270~490
11/16in 3822524 ST-1138 620 270~490
3/4in 3822524 ST-1138 620 270~490
7/8in 3822524 ST-1138 620 270~490
4 rib 3822524 ST-1138 620 270~530
5 rib 3822524 ST-1138 670 290~580
6 rib 3822525 ST-1293 710 360~710
8 rib 3822525 ST-1293 890 440~890
10 rib 3822525 3823138 1110 530~1070
12 rib 3822525 3823138 1330 530~1070
12-rib, K-section 3822525 3823138 1330 890~1070
Note: The belt is considered as used if it has been used for more than 10 min or longer. If
the tension of the used belt is less than the minimum value, tighten the belt to the
maximum value of the used belt.
IV. Engine tightening torque
(i) Tightening torque for Cummins ISDe210 30 engine components
Part to be tightened Tightening torque, N·m
Air compressor mounting nut 77
Cylinder head – pressure tester fixing nut 80
Rocker arm housing 24
Crankcase ventilation pipe 7
ECM cooling plate mounting bolt 24
Fuel filter head bracket 27
Injector pressure plate 3.5
Fuel rail bolt 24
Fuel pump mounting bolt 24
Injector feed pipe 22
Oil cooler bolt 24
Oil sump bolt 24
Oil sump drain plug (M22) 80
Oil sump drain plug (M18) 60
Rocker chamber cover 24
Rocker chamber housing bolt 24
Rocker adjusting screw lock nut 24
Rocker mount bolt 36
Starter mounting bolt 43
Water inlet joint bolt 43
Water outlet joint bolt 10
Water pump mounting bolt 24
Oil pressure regulating valve plug 80
Oil pressure switch (fitted in the cast iron component) 16
Oil pressure switch (fitted in the aluminum component) 10
Belt-driven fan hub mounting bolt (M6) 10
Engine tightening torque 23

Part to be tightened Tightening torque, N·m

Belt tensioner mounting bolt 43
Fan pulley bolt (M6) 10
Cooling fan (M6) 10
Cooling fan (M10) 43
Cooling fan (M12) 77
Intake system clamp 10
Turbine exhaust pipe clamp 10
Turbocharger mounting nut 43
Turbocharger air compressor outlet elbow 8
Turbocharger oil feed pipe 20
Intake & exhaust pipe 8
Turbocharger oil return pipe 23
Generator mounting bolt 40
Generator adjusting rod bolt 24
Engine front lug mounting bolt 113
Engine rear lug mounting bolt 113
Connecting bolt for engine front suspension bracket
150
and frame
Suspension cushion fixing bolt 77
Suspension cushion center bolt 280~350
Flywheel bolt 30
Flywheel housing bolt (M10) 49
Flywheel housing bolt (M12) 85
Flywheel ring gear 30
24 Engine tightening torque

(ii) Mark and torque of fixing screw

Mark of fixing screw
Note: Always use fixing screws of the same size and strength when replacing them.
Use of improper fixing screws will damage the engine.
The metric fixing screws and nuts are distinguished by the class designation imprinted on the screw
head or nut surface, and the American fixing screws are distinguished by the radial line imprinted on
the screw head.
Metric-M8-1.25×25 American [5/16×18×1-1/2]
Main thread Main thread
Thread pitch Threads per
DIA L (mm) DIA L (in)
(mm) inch
(mm) (in)
M8 1.25 25 5/16 18 1-1/2
Note: If there is no special torque requirement, always use the torque listed in the
following table. Do not use the torque indicated in other chapters in this manual.
The torque in this table is based on the thread lubricated by the used lubricating
oil.
Mark and torque of fixing screw (metric)
Bolt mark and tightening torque - metric
Grade designation of commercial steel
8.8 10.9 12.9
Bolt head mark
Size Torque Torque Torque

DIA Cast iron Al Cast iron Al Cast iron Al
mm N·m N·m N·m N·m N·m N·m
6 9 7 12 7 14 7
7 14 11 18 11 23 11
8 25 18 33 18 40 18
10 45 30 60 30 70 30
12 80 55 105 55 125 55
14 125 90 165 90 195 90
16 180 140 240 140 290 140
18 230 180 320 180 400 180

Mark and torque of fixing screw (American)

SAE class 5 8
Fixing screw head mark
These are all the SAE5 (3
lines) fixing screws
Torque of fixing screw torque – class 5 Torque of fixing screw – class 8

Size of fixing screw Cast iron Al Cast iron Al
body
N·m N·m N·m N·m
1/4-20 9 8 15 8
1/4-28 12 9 18 9
5/16-18 20 16 30 16
5/16-24 23 19 33 19
3/8-16 40 25 55 25
3/8-24 40 35 60 35
7/16-14 60 45 90 45
7/16-20 65 55 95 55
1/2-13 95 75 130 75
1/2-20 100 80 150 80
9/16-12 135 110 190 110
9/16-18 150 115 210 115
5/8-11 180 150 255 150
5/8-18 210 160 290 160
3/4-10 325 255 460 255
3/4-16 365 285 515 285
7/8-9 490 380 745 380
7/8-14 530 420 825 420
1-8 720 570 1100 570
1-14 800 650 1200 650
26 Engine tightening torque

Torque of pipe plug

Size Torque Torque
Actual outside
Thread diameter of In aluminum component In cast iron or steel component
thread
in in N·m N·m
1/6 0.32 5 15
1/8 0.41 15 20
1/4 0.54 20 25
3/8 0.68 25 35
1/2 0.85 35 55
3/4 1.05 45 75
1 1.32 60 95
1-1/4 1.66 75 115
1-1/2 1.90 85 135

Fault diagnosis
I. Troubleshooting steps
A thorough analysis of the problem is the key to successful troubleshooting. The more information
you learn about the problem, the faster and easier the problem will be solved.
The “Troubleshooting Chart” herein is organized in accordance with this principal. Namely, proceed
from the simplest and most logical thing first, and then gradually determine the position of fault and
solve the fault. Perform all steps from top to bottom.
It is not possible to list the solutions to all possible problems in this manual; however, these
troubleshooting charts can give a hint to you, and guide you to find final solutions to problems.
Please follow the following basic troubleshooting steps:
Gather all facts and measures on the fault;
Make a comprehensive analysis of problems;
Think about the fault symptom in connection with engine basic system and components;
Consider what maintenance or repair conducted recently may be related to the problem;
Recheck before starting any removal work;
Use troubleshooting chart and start from the easiest point to perform troubleshooting;
Once you find the fault cause, repair thoroughly;
After repair, perform running-in to engine to confirm that the fault has been removed.
28 Troubleshooting steps
II. Troubleshooting chart
Note: read each line in the border from top to bottom. Follow the indication of arrow to find the
solution.
(1) The air pressure of air compressor rises slowly
Cause Solution
Replace air compressor filter (if equipped).

Check air intake pipeline. If air compressor
Excessive resistance between intake
………… inlet is connected to the intake system of
system and air compressor
vehicle or equipment, check engine intake
resistance.
OK
When applying or releasing spring safety

brake, chock the wheel and check the air
system for leakage. Check air compressor
gasket and air system hose, pipe joint, air
Leakage at air system ………… reservoir and valve for leakage. For the
application where optional catalytic
reduction exhaust system is equipped,
check the air supply pipe of dose control
unit
OK
Check air pressure regulator for normal

Air pressure regulator is faulty or set operation. Ensure that the air pressure
…………
incorrectly regulator is no more than 0.6m [2ft] from
the air compressor.
OK
Check for carbon deposit. Replace air

Excessive carbon deposit in exhaust pipe,
compressor exhaust pipe, cylinder head or
downstream air valve or compressor …………
air compressor. Check turbocharger for oil
cylinder head
leakage and intake pipe for oil.
OK
Check the operating conditions of check

valve, ethanol evaporator, air dryer and
Air system components are faulty …………
other air system components fitted by
OEM.
Troubleshooting chart 29
OK
Check unloading valve and valve body

Unloading valve is faulty …………
seals.
OK
Check air compressor cylinder head

assembly, and replace it when necessary.
Air leakage at air compressor intake or
………… If the air compressor cylinder head is
exhaust valve system
unmaintainable, replace the air
compressor.
(2) Air compressor is switched on and off frequently
Cause Solution

unit.
OK

…………
the air compressor.
OK
Check the operating condition of check

OEM.
OK
The E-type system is not fitted in a vertical Fit Econ valve, check valve and system
…………
position correctly hose.
OK

exhaust system
compressor.
30 Troubleshooting chart
OK
Replace the desiccant box on

Turbo/CR2000 air dryer. Check the
Air compressor pumps air for a long time …………
working cycle ratio of air compressor. If
necessary, fit a larger air compressor.
OK
Lubricate or replace check valve assembly

The check valve at air dryer outlet gets stuck …………
at air dryer outlet.
(3) Air compressor is too noisy
Cause Solution

Excessive carbon deposit in exhaust pipe,
compressor exhaust pipe, cylinder head,
downstream air valve or compressor …………
or air compressor. Check turbocharger for
cylinder head
oil leakage.
OK
For all models, check exhaust pipe. Check

if any ice builds up in the low points of
Ice builds up in air system components ………… dryer inlet and elbow joint. For Holset®
model, you should also check the Econ
valve (if equipped).
OK
The mounting member of air compressor is Check the mounting member of air
…………
loose, worn or broken compressor.
OK
Air compressor transports pulse air to air Fit a pulse tank between air dryer and wet
…………
reservoir air reservoir
OK
The spline drive coupling or the gear is worn

………… Check coupling for wear.
excessively
OK
The air compressor drive gear or the engine Check drive gear and gear train, and repair
…………
gear train is worn out or damaged them if necessary.
OK
Replace or overhaul the air compressor.

The air compressor is worn excessively or
………… Replace the desiccant tank on
damaged internally.
Turbo/CR2000 air dryer (if equipped).
(4) Air compressor pumps too much oil into air system
Cause Solution
Verify whether the oil change interval is

Oil change interval is too long …………
correct.
OK
Oil is contaminated by coolant or fuel ………… Refer to “Oil contamination” symptom tree.
OK
Replace air compressor filter (if equipped).

Excessive resistance between intake If air compressor inlet is connected to the
…………
system and air compressor intake system of vehicle or equipment,
check engine intake resistance
OK
The impurities are not discharged from the

………… Empty air reservoir every day.
system at regular intervals
OK
Replace the desiccant box on

Turbo/CR2000 air dryer. Check the
Air compressor pumps air for a long time …………
working cycle ratio of air compressor. If
necessary, fit a larger air compressor.
OK

Excessive carbon deposit in exhaust pipe, compressor exhaust pipe, cylinder head or
…………
check valve or compressor cylinder head air compressor. Check turbocharger for oil
leakage and intake pipe for oil.
OK
The curvature of characteristic curve is out

Refer to “Engine technical specification
of technical specification during engine …………
datasheet”.
running
OK
The pressure of crankcase is too high ………… Check for excessive blow-by.
OK
Oil pressure is out of technical specification ………… Check oil pressure.

OK
If the coolant temperature is above normal

value, refer to “Coolant temperature above
Air compressor overheats during running …………
normal value – gradual overheating”
symptom tree.
OK
Remove air compressor, and then check

Oil return pipe is blocked ………… the oil return holes in air compressor and
accessory drive.
OK
The air compressor drive gear or the engine Check drive gear and gear train, and
…………
gear train is worn out or damaged repair them if necessary.
OK
Air compressor pumps air with excessively Check air pressure regulator for normal
…………
high pressure operation.
OK

Replace or overhaul the air compressor.
damaged internally
(5) Air compressor fails to maintain sufficient air pressure (failure to pump air continuously)
Cause Solution

unit.
OK

operation. As the air pressure regulator
Air pressure regulator is faulty or set
………… may not be used in some OEM
incorrectly
installations, frequent circulation may
occur, and this is normal.
OK
Check air compressor intake and exhaust

valve assembly, and replace it when
………… necessary. If the air compressor cylinder
exhaust valve system
head is unmaintainable, replace the air
compressor.
(6) Air compressor cannot pump air
Cause Solution

…………
the air compressor.
OK

seals.
OK
Check air compressor intake and exhaust

Air leakage at air compressor intake or valve assembly. If the air compressor
…………
exhaust valve system cylinder head is unmaintainable, replace
the air compressor.
OK

………… Replace or overhaul air compressor.
damaged internally
(7) Air compressor cannot stop pumping air
Cause Solution

unit.
OK

…………
the air compressor.
OK

seals.
OK
Air pressure regulator signal pipe or

………… Check signal pipe and actuator pipe.
actuator pipe is blocked
OK
Check the operating condition of check

OEM.
OK

exhaust system
compressor.
(8) Charger is not charged or under charge
Cause Solution
Vehicle instrument fault ………… Check vehicle instrument.

OK
Move the accelerator and increase the

The charger cannot be charged as the
………… engine speed to 1,200rpm to charge the
engine speed is too low
charger.
OK
Charger belt is loose ………… Check the tension of charger belt.

OK
Electrical system is “open” (the fuse is

blown, the wire is disconnected or the ………… Check the fuse, wire and connector.
connector is loose)
OK
Battery cable or connection is loose, broken

………… Check battery cable and connection.
or corroded (high resistance)
OK
Check battery condition, and replace the

Battery fault …………
battery if necessary.
OK
Charger pulley is released from shaft ………… Tighten the pulley.

OK
Battery temperature is higher than the valve

………… Put the battery away from heat source.
specified in technical specification
OK
Test charger output. If necessary, replace

Charger or voltage regulator is faulty …………
the charger or voltage regulator.
OK
The charger is overloaded or its capacity is

………… Fit a charger with large capacity.
below the technical specification
OK
Current electronic fault code means the high

frequency times of current or non-current ………… Read the fault code with service software.
fault code
(9) Charger is over charged
Cause Solution
Battery cable or connection is loose, broken

………… Check battery cable and connection.
or corroded (high resistance)
OK
Check battery condition, and replace the

Battery unit cell is broken (open circuit) …………
battery if necessary.
OK
Check voltage regulator, and replace it if

Voltage regulator fault …………
necessary.
OK
Charger fault ………… Test charger output.

OK

fault code
(10) Coolant loss - external
Cause Solution
Coolant level is above the technical

………… Check coolant level.
specification
OK
Check engine and engine components’

seals, gaskets or drain cocks for leakage.
Check radiator, heat exchanger, cab
External engine leakage …………
heater, hose and joint. If necessary,
pressurize the cooling system to
determine the leak source.
OK
Cooling system hose is collapsed, blocked Check if the cooling system hose is
…………
or leaky blocked, clogged and leaky.
OK
Cooling system pressure cap is incorrect,

………… Check pressure cap.
faulty or at low rated pressure
OK
Refer to “Coolant temperature above

normal value – gradual overheating” or
Engine overheating …………
“Coolant temperature above normal value
– sudden overheating” symptom tree.
OK
Check and verify OEM pipeline to ensure

no return due to high pressure coolant.
Overflow loss of coolant through radiator …………
Check if the exhaust/filling pipeline is
blocked.
OK
Transmission fluid cooler or torque Check transmission fluid cooler or torque

…………
converter cooler is leaky converter cooler for coolant leakage.
(11) Coolant loss - internal
Cause Solution
Coolant leaks into oil ………… Check oil for coolant.

OK
Radiator cap is of incorrect model, faulty or

………… Check radiator pressure cap.
of low voltage specification
OK
Leakage at oil cooler ………… Check oil cooler for coolant leakage.
OK
Air compressor cylinder head shows crack Check air compressor cylinder head and
…………
or blow hole or the gasket is leaky gasket.
OK
Leakage at cylinder head gasket ………… Check cylinder head gasket.

OK
Remove cylinder head, and check cylinder

Coolant leaks into fuel ………… head, gasket and piston for coolant
residue.
OK
Cylinder head shows crack or hole ………… Perform pressure test on cylinder head.
OK
Cylinder head expansion plug is leaky or

………… Check cylinder head
assembled incorrectly
OK
Remove oil sump. Perform pressure test

Cylinder block shows crack or hole …………
on cooling system to check leakage.
(12) Coolant temperature above normal value – gradual overheating
Cause Solution

fault code
OK
Radiator shield or cold-proof front cover is Open the radiator shield or cold-proof front
…………
closed in cold weather cover used in cold weather.
OK
Check radiator shutter, and repair or

Radiator shutter cannot be fully opened, or
………… replace it if necessary. Check the opening
the shutter opening is not set correctly
setting of shutter.
OK
The radiating fin of air-to-air intercooler, Check the radiating fins of air-to-air cooler,
radiator or A/C condenser is damaged or ………… A/C condenser and radiator. Clean them if
clogged by debris necessary.
OK
Check coolant level and check for external

Coolant level is below the technical leakage. Take oil samples and send them
…………
specification to laboratory to check for coolant (internal
leakage).
OK
Verify the concentration of antifreeze in

The mixing ratio of antifreeze and water in
………… coolant. Add antifreeze or water to correct
coolant is not correct
concentration.
OK
Fan shroud or air deflector is damaged or Check fan shroud and air deflector. If
…………
lost necessary, repair, replace or refit them.
OK
Check fan drive belt, and replace it if

Fan drive belt is broken or loose …………
necessary.
OK
Fan drive or control device is faulty ………… Check fan drive and control device.
OK
Test thermometer or sensor; If necessary,

Coolant thermometer or sensor is faulty …………
repair or replace them.
OK

OK
Check the thermostat for correct P/N and

Thermostat is of incorrect model or faulty …………
for normal operation.
OK
Cooling system hose is clogged or has

………… Check radiator hose.
seepage
OK
Filling pipe and exhaust pipe are clogged, Check exhaust pipe and filling pipe for
…………
blocked or the pipeline is incorrect correct arrangement and blockage.
OK
Refer to “Intake manifold temperature

The air temperature of intake manifold is
………… above technical specification” symptom
above technical specification
tree.
OK
Oil level is above or below technical Check oil level. If necessary, fill or drain
…………
specification oil.
OK
Cooling system is contaminated by dirt,

………… Clean cooling system.
scale or sludge
OK
OK
Refer to “Coolant mixed with oil or

Coolant is contaminated by oil …………
transmission fluid” symptom tree.
OK
Check water pump for normal operation. If

Water pump fault …………
necessary, replace it.
OK
Radiator radiating fin is damaged or clogged Check radiator radiating fin. If necessary,
…………
by debris clean and repair it.
OK
Torque converter fault ………… Check torque converter.

OK
Torque converter cooler or hydraulic oil Remove and check cooler core and
…………
cooler is faulty O-ring.
OK
Verify whether the engine and vehicle

Vehicle cooling system cannot meet
………… cooling system use appropriate
requirements
components.
OK
Air or gas mixture after combustion enters Check cooling system for air or gas
…………
cooling system mixture after combustion.
(13) Coolant temperature above normal value – sudden overheating
Cause Solution
Current electronic fault means the high

View fault code with INSITE™ service
frequency times of current or non-current …………
software and perform troubleshooting.
fault code
OK
Check engine and cooling system for

Coolant level is below technical external coolant leakage. If necessary,
…………
specification repair them. Add coolant. Refer to
“External coolant leakage” symptom tree.
OK
Check fan drive belt. If necessary, replace

Fan drive belt is broken or loose …………
it.
OK
…………
OK
Check radiator shutter, and repair or

Radiator shutter cannot be fully opened, or
………… replace it if necessary. Check the opening
the shutter opening is not set correctly
setting of shutter.
OK
The radiating fin of air-to-air intercooler, Check the radiating fins of air-to-air
radiator or A/C condenser is damaged or ………… intercooler, A/C condenser and radiator.
clogged by debris Clean them if necessary.
OK

Thermostat if of incorrect model or faulty …………
for normal operation.
OK
Test thermometer and sensor. If

Coolant thermometer sensor fault …………
necessary, repair or replace them.
OK
Cooling system hose is clogged, blocked or

………… Check radiator hose.
has seepage
OK
Filling pipe and exhaust pipe are clogged, Check exhaust pipe and filling pipe for
…………
blocked or the pipeline is incorrect correct arrangement and blockage.
OK
Check water pump for normal operation. If

Water pump fault …………
necessary, replace it.
OK

OK
OK
Cooling system component fault ………… Conduct diagnosis test on cooling system
OK
…………
(14) Cooling oil temperature below normal value
Cause Solution
Check the air beneath cold-proof front

Engine is running at low ambient cover, shutter and engine hood. In cold
…………
temperature weather, use the air inflow beneath the
engine hood.
OK

fault code
OK
Test thermometer or sensor. If necessary,

Coolant thermometer or sensor is faulty …………
service or replace them.
OK
Close the valve connected to heater.

Excessive coolant flows out from OEM Operate the engine. If engine operating
…………
pipeline and heater core temperature is normal, refer to OEM
Service Manual.
OK

Thermostat is of incorrect model or faulty …………
for correct operation.
OK
OK
Idling for long periods (over 10min) can

cause too low oil and coolant temperature.
Shut down the engine instead of idling it
Engine idling for a long time …………
for a long time. If the engine has to be
idled for long periods, increase idling
speed.
OK
Cooling system component fault ………… Conduct diagnosis test on cooling system.
(15) Coolant mixed with oil
Cause Solution
Oil cooler fault ………… Check oil cooler.

OK
…………
or blow hole or the gasket is leaky gasket.
OK
Cylinder head core and expansion plug are

………… Check cylinder head.
leaky or fitted incorrectly
OK
Leakage at cylinder head seal ………… Check cylinder head gasket.

OK
Cylinder head shows crack or hole ………… Perform pressure test on cylinder head.
OK
Remove oil sump. Perform pressure test

Cylinder block shows crack or hole …………
on cooling system to check for leakage.
(16) Excessive gas (blow-by) in crankcase
Cause Solution
Check and clean crankcase breather and

Crankcase ventilation system is clogged …………
exhaust pipe.
OK
Disconnect intake pipe and exhaust pipe

to isolate the air compressor. Check for
Air compressor fault ………… blow-by. If the blow-by fails to meet
technical specification, overhaul or
replace the air compressor.
OK
Check turbocharger compressor and

Leakage at turbocharger oil seal …………
turbine seals.
OK
Excessive valve stem clearance or

………… Check valve stem and seal.
damaged valve stem seal
OK
Cylinder head valve guide is worn Check valve guide for wear. If necessary,
…………
excessively replace the cylinder head.
OK
Check intake system for leakage. Check

Piston or piston ring is worn or damaged …………
piston and piston ring for wear or damage.
(17) Engine brake does not work
Cause Solution
Engine brake ON/OFF switch is

………… Switch on.
disconnected
OK
Check the programmable parameters or

Programmable parameters or selected selected characteristics with service
…………
characteristics are incorrect software. If necessary, reset the
parameters and characteristics.
OK

fault code
OK
Engine brake ON/OFF switch or circuit is Check engine brake ON/OFF switch and
…………
faulty circuit.
OK
Check the adjustment, function and circuit

Clutch switch or circuit is faulty …………
of clutch switch.
OK
Check if the accelerator pedal is blocked.

Accelerator pedal or control level position
………… Check accelerator pedal or control level
sensor or circuit is faulty
position sensor and circuit.
OK
Service brake pressure switch or circuit is Check service brake pressure switch and
…………
faulty circuit.
OK
Check the ground of engine to chassis

Engine circuit ground fault ………… and the ground of chassis to battery
negative (-) terminal.
OK
Check engine brake control valve and

Oil leakage (internal) …………
engine brake piston.
OK
Engine brake lubricating oil passage has Check engine brake assembly for
…………
resistance resistance.
OK
Engine brake is incorrectly adjusted ………… Adjust engine brake.
(18) Engine brake – low reducer power or slow braking
Cause Solution

fault code
OK

…………
OK
Warm up the engine to operating

temperature. If the engine fails to reach
Engine is cold ………… the operating temperature, refer to
“Coolant temperature below normal value”
symptom tree.
OK
Engine brake is incorrectly adjusted ………… Adjust engine brake.

OK
Check oil level. If the level is high, check

There is air in lubricating system …………
the oil suction pipe for any crack.
OK
Check engine brake control valve and

Oil leakage (internal) …………
engine brake piston.
OK
Check engine brake control valve, and

Engine brake control valve is faulty …………
replace it if necessary.
OK
Engine brake lubricating oil passage has Check engine brake assembly for
…………
resistance resistance.
OK
Monitor turbocharger boost pressure with

Turbocharger is faulty …………
service software.
(19) Engine fan does not work, or works unsteadily or continuously
Cause Solution

…………
OK
Manual fan ON/OFF switch and circuit are Check manual fan ON/OFF switch and
…………
faulty circuit.
OK
A/C sensor or circuit is faulty ………… Check A/C sensor and circuit
OK
Fan clutch actuator or circuit is faulty ………… Check fan clutch actuator and circuit.
OK
Check the ground of engine to chassis

Engine circuit ground fault ………… and the ground of chassis to battery
negative (-) terminal.
(20) Engine is too noisy
Cause Solution
Check belt tension. If necessary, tighten

Fan drive belt is loose …………
the belt.
OK
Fan is loose, damaged or out of balance ………… Check fan.

OK
Fan clutch, hydraulic pump or refrigerant Isolate each component and check for
…………
compressor is too noisy noise.
OK
Check intake system and exhaust system

Intake or exhaust air leakage …………
for air leakage.
OK
Intake pipe or exhaust pipe contacts with Check whether air pipe, chassis and cab
…………
chassis or cab have contacts.
OK
…………
specification oil.
OK
Oil is too thin or diluted ………… Refer to “Low oil pressure” symptom tree.
OK
Check oil pressure. If the pressure is too

Oil pressure is below technical specification ………… low, refer to “Low oil pressure” symptom
tree.
OK
Shock absorber is damaged ………… Check shock absorber.

OK

Coolant temperature is above technical
………… normal value - gradual overheating”
specification
symptom tree.
OK
Disconnect drivetrain. Check engine for

Drivetrain is too noisy …………
noise.
OK
Engine suspension is worn, damaged or

………… Check engine suspension.
incorrect
OK
Refer to “Air compressor is too noisy”

Air compressor is too noisy …………
symptom tree.
OK
Overhead mechanism is not adjusted Measure and adjust overhead

…………
correctly mechanism.
OK
Overhead mechanism component is Check rocker arm, rocker shaft and valve
…………
damaged for damage or excessive wear.
OK
Perform diagnosis to find the damaged

Injector fault …………
injector, and replace it if necessary.
OK
Hydraulic torque converter is loose ………… Check torque converter.

OK
Check flywheel or flex plate and mounting

Flywheel or flex plate bolt is loose or broken …………
bolt.
OK
Gear train has excessive backlash or gear

………… Check backlash and gear teeth.
teeth is damaged
OK
Refer to “Excessive engine noise –

Main bearing or connecting rod bearing is
………… connecting rod” or “Excessive engine
noisy.
noise – main bearing” symptom tree.
OK

Turbocharger noise …………
turbocharger” symptom tree.
OK

Combustion noise is excessive …………
cylinder knocking” symptom tree.
OK
Check intake system for leakage and

Analyze oil and oil filter to determine the
possible damaged parts and their causes.
(21) Excessive engine noise –cylinder knocking
Cause Solution

fault code
OK
Fuel grade is not suitable for the application

………… Operate the engine with premium fuel.
or fuel quality is poor
OK
There is air in fuel system ………… Check fuel system for air.
OK

Coolant temperature is above technical
………… normal value - gradual overheating”
specification
symptom tree.
OK

…………
OK

injector. If necessary, replace the injector.
OK
Camshaft timing is incorrect (after engine

………… Check the timing of gear drive system.
overhauling or service)
OK
Piston is assembled incorrectly ………… Remove and check the piston.
(22) Excessive engine noise – connecting rod
Cause Solution
Check oil level. Verify whether the oil

dipstick calibration and the oil sump
Oil level is below technical specification …………
capacity are correct or not. Fill oil to the
specified level.
OK
Oil pressure is below technical specification ………… Check oil pressure.

OK
Refer to step 007-083 in section 7. If the

Oil is too thin or diluted ………… oil pressure is low, refer to “Low oil
pressure” symptom tree.
OK
Cylinder block reinforcement plate is Remove and check cylinder block

…………
assembled incorrectly reinforcement plate
OK
Oil suction or delivery pipe is assembled Remove and check oil suction or delivery
…………
incorrectly pipe.
OK
Crankshaft journal is damaged or

………… Check crankshaft journal.
out-of-round
OK
Connecting rod bolt is loose or fastened

………… Check the torque of connecting rod bolt.
incorrectly
OK
Connecting rod is bent or not aligned ………… Remove and check connecting rod.
OK
Connecting rod and bearing are damaged,

worn or assembled improperly, or a wrong ………… Check connecting rod and bearing
bearing is assembled
(23) Excessive engine noise – main bearing
Cause Solution
Oil pressure is below technical specification ………… Check oil pressure.

OK

Oil level is below technical specification …………
specified level.
OK
Refer to step 007-083. If the oil pressure is

Oil is too thin or diluted ………… low, refer to “Low oil pressure” symptom
tree.
OK
Main bearing bolt is loose, worn or fastened Check the torque of main bearing bolt and
…………
incorrectly check the bolt for wear.
OK
Main bearing is damaged, worn or Check main bearing for damage or

assembled improperly, or a wrong bearing ………… excessive wear, and check whether the
is fitted P/N is correct.
OK
Crankshaft journal is damaged or

………… Check crankshaft journal.
out-of-round
OK

bolt.
(24) Excessive engine noise – piston
Cause Solution

fault code
OK

OK

…………
OK

injector, and replace it if necessary.
OK
Piston is assembled improperly ………… Remove and check piston.

OK
Connecting rod is bent or not aligned ………… Remove and check connecting rod.
OK
Connecting rod is assembled improperly ………… Remove and check connecting rod.
OK
Remove the piston and check if the piston

Piston pin or piston pin bush is loose, worn
………… pin and pin bush are damaged, worn and
or fitted incorrectly
fitted properly.
(25) Excessive engine noise – turbocharger
Cause Solution
Check turbocharger P/N and compare it

with the P/N in Control Part List (CPL,
Turbocharger model is incorrect …………
notification No. 337913 or 4021327). If
necessary, replace the turbocharger.
OK
Check the resistance of intake system. If

The resistance of intake system is above
………… necessary, clean or replace air filter and
technical specification
intake pipe.
OK
Check intake system and exhaust system

Intake or exhaust air leakage …………
for air leakage.
OK
Intake pipe or exhaust pipe contacts with Check whether air pipe, chassis and cab
…………
chassis or cab have contacts.
OK
The resistance of exhaust system does not

………… Check the resistance of exhaust system.
meet the technical specification
OK
Check the turbocharger for damage.

Turbocharger is worn or damaged ………… Measure the clearance between turbine
wheel and compressor impeller.
(26) Excessive engine vibration
Cause Solution

fault code
OK
Refer to “Engine performance” symptom

Engine misfire …………
tree.
OK
Verify whether the idle speed set value is

Engine idle speed set value is too small
………… correct. Increase the idle speed with idle
(electronic control fuel system)
up switch or service software.
OK
Check whether fan hub, charger, freon

compressor and hydraulic pump have
Belt drive accessories are faulty …………
interference. Isolate belt drive accessories
and check for vibration.
OK
Fan is loose, damaged or out of balance ………… Check fan.

OK
Check hydraulic pump and air

Gear drive accessories are faulty ………… compressor. Isolate gear drive
accessories and check for vibration.
OK
Engine suspension is worn, damaged or

………… Check engine suspension.
incorrect
OK
Shock absorber is damaged ………… Check shock absorber.

OK
Compare the drivetrain component with

Drivetrain has faulty component or incorrect engine and equipment technical
…………
model specification. Isolate drivetrain
components and check for vibration.
OK

bolt.
OK
Flywheel housing is not aligned ………… Check flywheel housing alignment.

OK
Check PTO for damage and correct

Power take-off (PTO) is damaged …………
installation.
OK
Analyze oil and check the filter to

Engine is damaged internally …………
determine the possible damaged parts.
(27) Engine cannot be dragged or dragged slowly (electric starter motor)
Cause Solution
Battery is too cold ………… Check battery heater.

OK

fault code
OK
Check the power circuit of battery and

Battery voltage is low …………
switchless battery.
OK
Battery cable or connection is loose,

Check the power circuit of battery and
damaged or corroded (excessive …………
switch battery.
resistance)
OK
Battery capacity is below technical

………… If necessary, replace the battery.
specification
OK
Replace the battery cable with a cable of

Battery cable diameter or length is incorrect …………
larger diameter or shorter length.
OK
OEM starter motor interlocking device is

………… Check starter motor interlocking device.
engaged
OK
Oil pressure switch, pressure gauge and Check oil pressure switch, pressure gauge
pressure sensor are faulty or fitted ………… and pressure sensor for normal operation
improperly and correct installation position.
OK
Engine drive unit is engaged ………… Disengage engine drive unit.
OK
Starting circuit component fault ………… Check starting circuit component.

OK
Remove the starter motor and check the

Starter motor pinion or ring gear is damaged …………
gear.
OK

Oil level is above technical specification …………
specified level.
OK
Oil does not meet the technical specification

………… Replace the oil and filter.
under operating condition
OK
Crankshaft does not rotate flexibly ………… Check crankshaft for free rotation.
OK
Remove the injector and rotate the

Hydraulic blocking in cylinder ………… crankshaft. Find the liquid source in
cylinder.
OK

(28) The engine cannot be shut down
Cause Solution

fault code
OK
Check vehicle, equipment or vessel key

Key switch circuit fault …………
switch circuit.
OK

turbine seals.
OK
Check air intake pipeline. Detect and

Intake system inhales smoke during engine
………… isolate smoke source. Service if
running
necessary.
OK
Pre-authorization is required. Replace

Electronic control module (ECM) is faulty …………
ECM.
(29) Fault code alarm indicator lamp doesn’t work
Cause Solution
Turn key switch to ON (switch on)

Key switch is at OFF position …………
position.
OK
Check alarm indicator lamp for voltage. If

Fault code alarm indicator lamp is burnt …………
necessary, replace the bulb.
OK
The circuit of fault code alarm indicator lamp Check the circuit of fault code alarm
…………
is faulty indicator lamp.
OK
Check vehicle, equipment or vessel key

Key switch circuit fault …………
switch circuit.
(30) Coolant mixed with fuel
Cause Solution
Check radiator coolant. Replace with

Radiator coolant is contaminated ………… uncontaminated coolant after draining off
the coolant.
OK
Remove intake and exhaust manifolds.

Check for coolant leakage sign. If
Cylinder head shows crack or hole ………… necessary, operate the engine at low idle
speed. Perform pressure test on cylinder
head.
(31) Oil mixed with fuel
Cause Solution
Check bulk oil. Replace with

Bulk oil is contaminated ………… uncontaminated oil after draining off the
oil. Replace oil filter.
OK

fault code
OK
Idling for long periods (over 10min) can

Shut down the engine instead of idling it
Engine idling for a long time …………
for a long time. If the engine has to be
speed.
OK
Check or replace fuel pipe, check valve or

Oil return pipe is blocked …………
fuel tank ventilation pipe as needed.
OK
Tighten the bolt according to technical

Injector hold-down bolt is loose …………
specification.
OK
Remove and check injector. Replace

Injector O-ring is damaged or lost …………
injector O-ring.
OK
Perform automatic cylinder performance

test, and replace the cylinder if necessary.
OK
Remove the injector and check the

Injector gasket is improper …………
thickness of injector gasket.
OK
Perform pressure test on cylinder head

Cylinder head shows crack or hole …………
and fuel drain channel in cylinder head.
OK
Check gear pump output pressure, and

Gear pump fault …………
replace the gear pump if necessary.
OK

(32) Intake manifold air temperature above technical specification
Cause Solution
Check fan drive belt, and replace it if

Fan drive belt is disconnected …………
necessary.
OK
Check belt tension. If necessary, tighten

Fan drive belt is loose …………
the belt.
OK
…………
OK
Radiator shutter cannot be fully opened, or Check radiator shutter, and repair or
…………
the shutter opening is not set correctly replace it if necessary.
OK
The radiating fin of air-to-air intercooler, Check the radiating fins of air-to-air
radiator or A/C condenser is damaged or ………… intercooler, A/C condenser and radiator.
clogged by debris Clean them if necessary.
OK

fault code
OK
Check the intake manifold temperature

Intake manifold temperature sensor is faulty
………… sensor concerning with the fault code. If
within working range
necessary, replace the sensor.
OK
Check the programmable parameters and

…………
OK
OK
Check fan P/N and compare it with the

Fan model is incorrect ………… given OEM P/N. if necessary, replace the
fan.
OK
Fan shroud or air deflector is damaged or Check shroud and air deflector. If
…………
lost necessary, repair, replace or refit them.
OK
The hot air of exhaust system leaks into Check exhaust system for leakage or
…………
engine compartment component breakage
OK
Check boost pressure sensor and circuit.

Use INSITE™ service software to
Intake manifold (boost) pressure sensor or compare the reading of intake manifold
…………
circuit is faulty pressure sensor with that indicated on
manual pressure gauge at monitoring
mode.
OK
Verify whether the engine and vehicle

Vehicle cooling system cannot meet
………… cooling system use appropriate
requirements
components.
OK
Fan is not large enough for this application ………… Check that the fan specification is correct.
(33) Low idle adjusting switch failure
Cause Solution
Engine idle speed is set to the minimum or Idle adjusting switch cannot adjust idle
…………
maximum permissible value speed outside the permissible range.
OK
The characteristic of low idle adjusting Check the characteristic of low idle
…………
switch is inactivated adjusting switch with service software.
OK
Low idle adjusting switch and circuit are Check idle speed regulating switch and
…………
faulty circuit.
(34) Excessive oil consumption
Cause Solution
Check the ratio of oil filling quantity to

Verify oil consumption …………
mileage.
OK
Check engine for external oil leakage.

Oil leakage (external) ………… Tighten the bolt, pipe plug and pipe joint. If
necessary, replace the gasket.
OK
Check and clean crankshaft breather and

Crankcase ventilation system is clogged ………… exhaust pipe. Refer to step 003-001 and
003-018 in section 3.
OK
Oil fails to meet the technical specification

………… Replace oil and filter.
under working condition
OK

correct.
OK
Air compressor pumps oil into air system ………… Check air pipe for carbon deposit and oil.
OK
Oil cooler leaks oil ………… Check oil cooler for oil leakage.
OK

Oil level is above technical specification …………
specified level.
OK
The curvature of characteristic curve is out Refer to Engine Technical Specification

of technical specification during engine ………… Data Package for the inclination technical
running specification of engine being repaired.
OK

turbine seals.
OK
Check for blow-by. If the blow-by is

Piston ring is not seated correctly (after
………… excessive, check if the piston ring is
engine overhaul or piston installation)
seated correctly.
OK
OK
Excessive valve stem clearance or valve

stem seal is damaged
OK
Cylinder head valve guide is worn Check valve guide for wear. If necessary,
…………
excessively replace the cylinder head.
OK
Check intake system for leakage and

Analyze oil and oil filter to determine the
possible damaged parts and their causes.
OK

(35) Oil contamination
Cause Solution
Make oil analysis to determine the

Verify whether the oil is contaminated …………
contaminant in oil.
OK
Refer to “oil mixed with fuel” symptom

There is fuel in oil …………
tree.
OK
Refer to “Internal coolant loss” symptom

Internal coolant leakage …………
tree.
OK

(36) High oil pressure
Cause Solution
Coolant temperature is below technical Refer to “Coolant temperature below

…………
specification normal value” symptom tree.
OK

correct.
OK
OK
Oil pressure sensor or circuit fault

………… Check oil pressure sensor and circuit
OK
The pressure regulator for main oil passage Check the pressure regulator assembly for
…………
is faulty main oil passage.
(37) Low oil pressure
Cause Solution

frequency times of current or non-current ………… View the fault code with service software.
fault code
OK
OK
…………
specification oil.
OK
Check engine for external oil leakage.

Oil leakage (external) ………… Tighten the bolt, pipe plug and pipe joint. If
necessary, replace the gasket.
OK

OK
Oil filter is incorrect ………… Ensure to use correct oil filter.

OK
OK
The curvature of characteristic curve is out

Refer to Engine Performance Curve &
of technical specification during engine …………
Datasheet.
running
OK
Oil pressure sensor or circuit fault

………… Check oil pressure sensor and circuit.
OK
The pressure regulator for main oil passage Check the pressure regulator assembly for
…………
is faulty main oil passage.
OK
Oil suction or delivery pipe is loose or Remove and check oil sump or oil suction
…………
broken, and gasket or O-ring is leaky pipe.
OK
Oil pump is faulty ………… Check oil pump

OK
Oil cooler is blocked ………… Check oil cooler.

OK
Piston cooling nozzle is damaged or fitted Check piston cooling nozzle for damage
incorrectly and correct installation.
OK
Analyze oil. Check oil filter and main

Engine is damaged internally or has internal
bearing, connecting rod bearing, cam
oil leakage
bush and rocker bush for excessive wear.
OK
Check connecting rod bearing, main

Instant loss of engine oil bearing, turbocharger, oil pump and oil
cooler.
OK
Check air compressor bush, connecting

Instant loss of engine oil causes serious
rod, and crankshaft, piston and cylinder
damage to connecting rod and main bearing
liner.
(38) Excessive sludge in crankcase
Cause Solution

OK

OK

correct.
OK

OK
Coolant temperature is below technical Refer to “Coolant temperature below

…………
specification normal value” symptom tree.
OK
OK
Oil temperature is above technical If necessary, replace oil cooler. Check

…………
specification whether the P/N of fitted cooler is correct.
OK
The pressure of crankcase is too high ………… Check for excessive blow-by.
OK

(39) Coolant mixed with oil or transmission fluid
Cause Solution
Check bulk coolant. Replace with

Bulk coolant is contaminated ………… uncontaminated coolant after emptying
the coolant. Replace coolant filter.
OK
Oil cooler fault ………… Check oil cooler.

OK
…………
OK
Leakage at cylinder gasket ………… Check cylinder head gasket.

OK
Remove intake and exhaust manifold.

Check for coolant leakage sign. If
Cylinder head shows crack or hole ………… necessary, operate the engine at low idle
speed. Perform pressure test on cylinder
head.
OK
…………
or hole, or the gasket is leaky gasket.
OK
Cylinder block shows crack or hole ………… Check cylinder block.
(40) The engine does not work at PTO or cruise control mode
Cause Solution

…………
OK
Verify whether the calibration of electronic

control module (ECM) is correct. Check
Electronic control module (ECM) has
………… and calibrate the revision history to restore
calibration fault
the settings stored in ECM. If necessary,
recalibrate ECM.
OK
Refer to appropriate software manual. If

Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) or circuit is
………… the monitor indicates speed, check sensor
faulty
and circuit.
OK
Check the adjustment, function and circuit

Clutch switch or circuit is faulty …………
of clutch switch.
OK
Engine brake ON/OFF switch or circuit is Check engine brake ON/OFF switch and
…………
faulty circuit.
OK
Vehicle brake switch or circuit is faulty ………… Check vehicle brake switch and circuit.
OK
Cruise control/PTO ON/OFF switch or Check cruise control /PTO ON/OFF switch
…………
circuit is faulty and circuit.
OK
Cruise control/PTO option switch or circuit is Check cruise control /PTO option switch
…………
faulty and circuit.
(41) Turbocharger leaks oil or fuel
Cause Solution

fault code
OK
Idling for long periods (over 10 min) can

Engine is running under small or zero load Shut down the engine instead of idling it
…………
for a long time (“coveted” condition) for a long time. If the engine has to be
speed.
OK
Refer to “Excessive white smoke”

White smoke occurs …………
symptom tree.
OK
Check all pipelines and pipe joints for

Oil pipe leaks oil ………… leakage. Tighten loose joint. If necessary,
replace the leaky oil pipeline.
OK
Remove turbocharger oil return pipe and

Turbocharger oil return pipe is blocked ………… check it for leakage. Clean or replace the
oil return pipe.
OK
Verify the operating condition of

Crankcase ventilation system is faulty …………
crankcase ventilation system.
OK
Check for excessive blow-by. If the

blow-by is above technical specification,
The pressure of crankcase is too high …………
refer to “Excessive crankcase gas
(blow-by)” symptom tree.
OK
Remove intake/exhaust pipe, and check it

Oil or fuel enters into turbocharger …………
for oil or fuel.
OK
Check the resistance of intake system. If

The resistance of intake system is above
………… necessary, clean or replace air filter and
technical specification
intake pipe.
OK

OK

turbine seals.
OK
Check the radial and axial clearance of the

The clearance of turbocharger impeller is bearing. Check turbocharger. If
…………
above technical specification necessary, repair or replace the
turbocharger.
OK
Excessive valve stem clearance or valve

stem seal is damaged
(42) Urea consumption – abnormal
Cause Solution
OK

fault code
OK
Verify whether there is urea in the storage

tank. If the tank is empty, fill it with urea. If
Urea tank is empty or urea level is incorrect …………
any fuel, oil or coolant exists in the tank,
refer to Progressive Damage Limit.
OK
Check exhaust junction surface, tail pipe

outlet, and aftertreatment urea charging
External urea leakage ………… valve or relevant pipeline for external urea
leakage or crystalloid. Service if
necessary.
OK
Engine operating under low load cycle, at

idle speed and/or under low ambient
temperature for long periods will lead to
reduction in urea consumption; conversely, Perform “Urea Charging Pump Override
…………
engine operating under high load cycle Test” with INSITE™ service software.
and/or high ambient temperature for long
periods will lead to increase in urea
consumption
OK
Check whether there is internal urea

leakage or crystalloid between
Internal urea leakage ………… aftertreatment urea charging valve and
exhaust catalytic converter. Service if
necessary.
Engine block
I. Replacement of engine lug
(i) Recommended tools & auxiliary materials
Tools & auxiliary

Name & model
materials
Common tools Wrench, air compressor
Special tools ——
Testing tools Torque wrench (10~100 N·m)
Auxiliary materials Brush, cleaning cloth
(ii) Operation steps

Removal
1. Tilt the cab
2. Disconnect the battery
3. Remove the generator and generator

bracket
Refer to “Replacement of generator and
generator bracket
4. Remove front lug

1). Unscrew front lug mounting bolt to
remove front lug.
Replacement of engine lug 75

5. Remove rear lug

1). Unscrew rear lug mounting bolt to
remove rear lug.
Note: The rear lifting brackets on
some engines use 2 bolts, and
some use 4.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean front/rear lug
1). Clean front/rear lug with steam or
solvent, and dry it with compressed
air.
Warning: When cleaning with
steam, remember to wear
safety goggles/protective
mask and protective suit
as superheated steam
may cause serious
personal injury.
2. Check front/rear lug

1). Check lug for cracks or damage. If
any crack occurs, the bracket must
be replaced.
Warning: Never use cracked or
damaged bracket, and nor
weld cracked lifting
bracket; otherwise,
personal injury may be
caused.
Refitting
1. Fit front lug
1). For the engine without pedestal
mounting generator, bolt and front
bracket should be fitted.
Tightening torque M8 24 N·m
76 Replacement of engine lug

Warning: Four 20 mm hexagon

head bolts (class 10.9)
must be used for fitting
front lug. Use of shorter
bolts or bolts of different
classes may cause the
engine to drop when
lifted, resulting in
personal injuries and
property loss.
2). For the engine with pedestal
mounting generator, bolt and front
bracket should be fitted.
Tightening torque 32 N·m
2. Fit rear lug

1). Fit and tighten rear bracket and bolt.
Tightening torque M10: 43 N·m 
M12: 77 N·m
Note: The rear lifting brackets on
some engines use 2 bolts, and
some use 4.
3. Fit generator and generator bracket

Refer to “Replacement of generator”
4. Connect the battery

5. Lower the cab
Replacement of engine lug 77

II. Replacement of engine front suspension

Tools & auxiliary

Name & model
materials
Common tools Wrench, hoist
Auxiliary materials ——

Removal
1. Initial inspection
1). Check suspension rubber pad.
Note: The damaged engine
suspension and bracket will
lead to misalignment of
engine. Damaged drivetrain
components may cause
excessive vibration which
may displease customers, and
should be replaced in time.
2). For all engine suspensions, check all
rubber pad suspensions for cracks or
damages.
3). Check all mounting brackets for
cracks or damaged bolt holes.
Note: All damaged parts should be
replaced.
4). For cylindrical suspension, check the

side bracket and engine front bracket
for contact.
Note: The contact between engine
suspension and side bracket
may cause vibration
problems. If any contact
occurs, engine front bracket
should be replaced.
78 Replacement of engine front suspension

3. Support engine front part

1). Support engine front part with lifting
equipment or lifting tool.
Warning: Engine lifting device must
be able to lift the engine
and transmission as a
whole safely to avoid
personal injury. If the
component weight is
greater than or equal to 23
kg, please lift the
component with lifting
equipment or others’
help.
4. Remove engine front suspension

1). For front suspension, the front
suspension bolt and bracket should
be removed.
Note: In specific application, it’s
required to loosen the
fasteners for engine rear
suspension so as to remove
engine front bracket.
2). When removing engine front
mounting fasteners, note the position
of the shim or spacer sleeve used.
3). For side suspension, the side

suspension bolt and bracket should
be removed.
Replacement of engine front suspension 79

Cleaning and check
1. Clean front suspension

1). Clean engine front support bracket
with steam or solvent.
2). Dry it with compressed air.
2. Check front suspension

1). Check engine bracket for crack or
damage.
2). If the engine bracket shows any
crack, it must be replaced; front
brackets on some engines are
provided with rubber pads. Ensure to
check the rubber pads for peeling-off,
cracks or aging.
Note: If damaged, engine front
bracket must be replaced.
Refitting
1. Fit front suspension
Tightening torque 80 N·m (class 8.8)
115 N·m 
(class
10.9)
125 N·m (class
12.9)

2. Fit side suspension

Tightening torque 80 N·m (class
8.8)
115 N·m 
(class
10.9)
125 N·m (class
12.9)
3. Fit engine bolt

1). Hoist the engine.
2). Fit hexagon hold-down nut and
tighten it.
Note: Ensure that all shims or
spacer sleeves are fitted at the
position where they were
removed.
3). Check the side bracket and engine
front bracket for contact.
Note: The contact between engine
suspension and side bracket
may cause vibration
problems. If any contact
occurs, please check that all
previously removed spacer
sleeves and shims have been
fitted.
4). Tighten engine rear suspension

fasteners.
5). Move away the lifting tool or
equipment from the front of the
engine.
Replacement of engine front suspension 81


5. Lower the cab

III. Removal and refitting of engine rear bracket

Tools & auxiliary

Name & model
materials
Common tools Wrench, crane

Removal
1. Tilt the cab
2. Initial inspection
1). Check all rubber pad suspensions for

cracks or damages
2). Check all mounting brackets for
cracks or damaged bolt holes
Note: All damaged parts should be
replaced.
4. Remove engine rear bracket

1). Support engine rear part with lifting
equipment or tool.
Note: When removing engine rear
mounting fasteners, note the
position of the shim or spacer
sleeve used.
Removal and refitting of engine rear bracket 83

2). Remove engine mounting fasteners.
3). Remove support rear bolt and

bracket.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean engine rear bracket
1). Clean engine rear bracket with steam

or solvent.
2. Check engine rear bracket

1). Check bracket for cracks or
damages.
2). If the bracket shows any crack,
replace it. The rear brackets on some
engines are provided with rubber
pads. Check rubber pads for
peeling-off, cracks or aging.
Note: If damaged, engine rear
bracket must be replaced.
84 Removal and refitting of engine rear bracket

Refitting
1. Fit engine rear bracket
1). Fit lifting bracket and bolts.
Note: Ensure that all shims or
spacer sleeves are fitted at the
positions where they were
removed.
2). Lower engine rear part.

3). Fit engine rear suspension fasteners.
4). Move away the lifting tool or
equipment from the back of the
engine.

3. Lower the cab
Removal and refitting of engine rear bracket 85

IV. Replacement of engine assembly

Tools & auxiliary

Name & model
materials
Common tools Wrench, socket, crane, drip pan
Auxiliary materials

Removal
1. Tilt the cab

1). To avoid electric arc, always
disconnect negative (-) cable first,
and connect it finally.
Warning: Explosive gas may
escape from the battery.
In order to reduce the
possibility of personal
injury, good ventilation of
the engine compartment
must be maintained
before battery
maintenance.
3. Drain engine coolant

1). Open the pressure cap only when
coolant temperature drops below
50℃.
Warning: Don’t open the radiator
pressure cap from a hot
engine. Otherwise, the
ejection of high
temperature coolant or
steam may cause
personal injury. Coolant
is poisonous. Keep out of
reach of children and pet.
If the coolant will no
longer be used, handle
them according to local
environmental law.
86 Replacement of engine assembly

4. Drain oil
Warning: In order to reduce the
possibility of personal
injury, direct contact of
your skin with hot oil
should be avoided.
5. Remove engine assembly

1). Disconnect fuel pipe and return pipe.
Warning: Fuel is inflammable.

When working on the fuel
system, cigarettes, open
fires, indicator lamps,
electric arc equipment
and switch must be kept
away from work area, and
the work area should also
be provided with a
ventilation plant to reduce
the possibility of severe
personal injury or even
death.
2). Disconnect fuel feed pipe and return

pipe, and cover them with caps.
3). Use labels to mark positions where
all hoses, tubes, coupling rods and
electrical connectors are removed.
Replacement of engine assembly 87

4). Disconnect starter cable, engine

ground strap, hose connecting from
cab or chassis to engine, pipeline,
electrical wire, wire harness and
hydraulic pipe.
5). Disconnect intake pipe or exhaust

pipe from turbocharger.
6). Remove all engine drive accessories
on the chassis.
7). Disconnect the drive unit from

flywheel housing
Refer to Removal of Transmission
8). Remove all related parts and

components to remove the engine
from the equipment.

9). Seal all engine openings to prevent

dirt and chip from entering into the
engine.

personal injury. If the
transmission has not
been removed, put a
support beneath the
transmission before
removing the engine to
prevent the transmission
from falling off.
11). When removing engine rear
mounting fasteners, note the position
of any shim or spacer sleeve used.
12). Remove engine mounting fasteners.

Note: If engine rear suspension is
connected to transmission,
the engine and transmission
should be removed as a whole
usually.
13). Remove the engine.
14). To service the engine, connect
engine bracket connecting plate to
engine exhaust side.
Note: The turbocharger may need to
be removed to fit engine
mount connecting plate.

15). Fit engine mount connecting plate to

the movable tilting engine recycling
bracket. To replace the engine, fit it
to the appropriate cargo saddle.
16). To replace the engine, remove all
remaining necessary accessories,
brackets and drive units.
Refitting
1. Fit engine assembly
1). Fit all accessories and brackets
removed from the engine in engine
removal.
Note: For the components provided
with the engine, refer to the
appropriate steps in this
manual

3). Use the crane and engine lifting tool
of correct rated power, and connect
them to the engine lug to remove the
engine.
Note: If the transmission has not
been removed, put a support
beneath the transmission
before removing the engine to
prevent the transmission from
falling off.
personal injury.
4). Lift the engine and engine bracket

connecting plate.
5). To service the engine, lift the engine
and engine bracket connecting plate
from engine recycling bracket.
6). Remove engine bracket connecting
plate.
Note: It may be necessary to fit
turbocharger after removing
engine bracket connecting
plate.

7). Lift the engine.

Note: If engine rear suspension is
connected to transmission,
the engine and transmission
should be fitted as a whole
usually.
8). Remove all tapes covering the

opening in removal.
9). Align the engine on the chassis, and

tighten the mounting bolts.
10). Connect all accessories fitted on the
engine and chassis.
Note: Ensure that all pipelines,
hoses and metal pipes are
arranged and fixed correctly
to avoid damages. Check that
intake pipe and exhaust pipe
are connected tightly without
leakage.
11). If the drive unit is not fitted with the

engine, then connect it to flywheel
housing.

2. Fill engine oil

1). Fill the engine with clean 15W-40 oil.
3. Fill coolant
Note: The total capacity of engine
coolant will change. Refer to
Instruction Manual to
determine the capacity of the
entire cooling system. In this
case, fitting cooling system
pressure cap is essential to
the proper discharge of the air
in cooling system. Incorrect
discharging of air from the
cooling system may result in
engine damage due to
overheating.
4. Check
1). Finally, carry out a complete
inspection to ensure that all hoses,
wires, connectors and components
are fitted correctly and tightened.

6. Lubricate engine
1). After engine service or overhaul,
always fill the oil system before
operation to avoid internal
component damage.
2). Disconnect 4-pin power connector
from electronic control module
(ECM) to prevent the engine from
starting.
3). Fit a pressure gauge in the main oil

passage at the intake side of engine.
4). If the port on the main oil passage is
unavailable, fit a pressure gauge at
the top of oil filter head.
5). Rotate the engine with motor until the

pressure indicated on the oil
pressure gauge is positive.
Note: Do not let the starter engage
for more than 30 s. In order to
reduce damages to engine,
wait for 2 min to cool the
starter during starter
engagement.
6). Connect the 4-pin power connector

for electronic control module (ECM)
after observing the pressure.
7). Remove the pressure gauge.

7. Fill fuel
8. Check oil and coolant

1). Operate the engine at low idle
speed for 2~3 min.
2). Shut down the engine and wait
for 5~7 min so that the oil can
flow back into oil sump.
3). Recheck oil level and coolant

level.
4). If necessary, fill the engine with
oil or coolant to the correct level.
Note: Operate the engine at the
speed of 1,000~1,200 rpm
for 8~10 min. Check for
normal operation,
abnormal noise and
coolant, fuel or oil
leakage.
9. Check engine running

1). Repair all leaky and faulty
components.

Cylinder head
I. Replacement of rocker chamber cover and gasket
(i) Recommended tools and auxiliary materials
Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Socket S10
Auxiliary materials Silk cloth

Removal
1. Tilt the cab
3. Remove crankcase ventilation pipe

See “Replacement of crankcase
ventilation pipe”
Replacement of rocker chamber cover and gasket 95

4. Remove rocker chamber cover (fit with

stud)
1). Before removing the components,
clean the surroundings of mounting
fasteners and sealing joints with
compressed air, and wipe off the
scraps.
Warning: Wear proper goggles and
face protector while using
compressed air. The
flying scraps and dirt will
lead to personal injury.
Note: For engine whose rocker
chamber cover gasket is fitted
to groove on the bottom of the
cover, do not remove the
reusable gasket. Once
removed, the gasket must be
replaced.
2). Remove mounting nuts and insulator

from the rocker chamber cover.
Note: During removal, slightly pry
the ventilation pipe joint (if
equipped) from the back of
rocker chamber cover.
5. Remove rocker chamber cover (fit with

bolt)
1). Remove mounting nuts and insulator
from the rocker chamber cover.
Note: During removal, slightly pry
the ventilation pipe joint (if
equipped) from the back of
2). Remove the rocker chamber cover.
96 Replacement of rocker chamber cover and gasket

Cleaning and check
1. Clean rocker chamber

1). Clean the rocker chamber with
solvent, and blow it dry with
compressed air.
Note: Do not dip the cover into
solvent if rocker arm gasket is
still fitted to the base of rocker
chamber cover. And do not
dip excessive part of gasket
into the solvent.
2. Check rocker chamber cover gasket

1). Check the gasket while fitting it to
rocker chamber cover. Once
removed from the cover, the gasket
must be replaced.
2). Check the silicone plating of gasket
for any crack. If it is damaged,
replace the gasket. When removed
from the groove of rocker chamber
cover, the gasket should be
replaced.
3. Check rocker chamber cover (fit with

stud)
1). Check the rubber insulator for any
crack. The insulator must be
replaced if it is cracked or fractured.
4. Check rocker chamber cover (fit with

bolt)
1). Check the insulator for any crack,
fracture or embrittlement. Check
whether the bolt is damaged. If so,
replace the isolator or bolt assembly.
Note: It may be required to replace
the bolt or isolator as an
assembly.

5. Check rocker chamber cover

1). Check the rocker chamber cover for
any crack or other damages. If any,
replace the cover.
Refitting
1. Fit rocker chamber cover gasket
Note: Replace the gasket with new
one if it has already been
removed from the rocker
chamber cover.
1). Press the molded gaskets into
various corners of rocker chamber
cover.
2). Press the remaining gaskets into
2. Fit rocker chamber cover with stud

1). Fit the rocker chamber cover into
mounting bolts.
2). Fit the insulator and mounting nuts.
3). Tighten mounting nuts.
3. Fit rocker chamber cover with bolt

1). Fit the rocker chamber cover.
2). Fit mounting bolts and insulator.
3). Tighten mounting bolts.
98 Replacement of rocker chamber cover and gasket

4. Fit crankcase ventilation pipe

ventilation pipe”
5. Lay down the cab.
6. Connect the battery.

II. Adjustment of valve clearance

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Wrench, socket, square wrench and hexagon wrench
Special tools Engine turning gear
Testing tools Torque wrench, dial indicator and feeler gauge
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, engine oil and sealant

Removal
1. Tilt the cab
3. Remove rocker chamber cover

See “Replacement of rocker chamber
cover”
Adjustment
1. Adjust 1# cylinder to TDC
1). Use the turning gear to rotate
crankshaft until 1# cylinder moves to
TDC.
100 Adjustment of valve clearance

2). Align the shock absorber with the

crankshaft speed indicator ring to
move the pointer of TDC to 12
o’clock position. If both rocker arms
of 1# cylinder are loose, go to the
next step. If they are not loose, rotate
the crankshaft for 360°.
3). If there is no TDC mark on shock

absorber or crankshaft speed
indicator ring, align the large notch of
ring with 5 o’clock position (2).
Locating pin should be seen at 9
o’clock position (1). Check whether
two rocker arms of 1# cylinder are
loose. If they are not loose, rotate the
crankshaft for 360°, and check it
again.
2. Adjust valve clearance

1). Adjustment sequence (E=exhaust
valve, I= intake valve)
4# cylinder 1I, 1E, 2I and 3E
6# cylinder 1I, 1E, 2I, 3E, 4I and 5E
Note: The engine coolant
temperature must be below
60℃.
Note: Inspection of set point of

overhead mechanism is part
of fault diagnosis. It is
unnecessary to reset the set
point as long as the measured
clearance is within specific
range.
Adjustment of valve clearance 101

2). Insert the feeler gauge between

jumper pressure plate and rocker
seat to measure the clearance. If the
measured clearance is beyond
technical specification, unscrew lock
nut, and adjust the clearance to the
nominal value in technical
specification.
Intake valve clearance 0.152~0.381
mm
Exhaust valve clearance 0.381~0.762
mm
Note: If certain resistance is
sensible when the feeler
gauge slips between jumper
pressure plate and rocker
seat, then it indicates that the
clearance is proper.
3). Tighten lock nut and measure the
torque.
4). Use turning gear to rotate crankshaft

for 360°.
5). Measure the following valve
clearance according to the
above-mentioned steps and
technical specifications (E=exhaust
valve, I=intake valve).
4# cylinder 2E, 3I, 4E and 4I
6# cylinder 2E, 3I, 4E, 5I, 6I and 6E
Note: If the clearance does not
conform to technical
specification, reset it.
3. Fit rocker chamber shield

shield”
102 Adjustment of valve clearance


5. Lay down the cab
Adjustment of valve clearance 103

III. Replacement of rocker chamber housing

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Wrench and socket
Special tools
Auxiliary materials Oil, sealant and hair brush

Removal
1. Tilt the cab

cover”
4. Disconnect injector wire

See “Replacement of injector”
104 Replacement of rocker chamber housing

5. Remove rocker chamber housing

1). Remove mounting bolts from rocker
chamber housing.
2). Remove gasket from rocker chamber
housing.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean rocker chamber housing
1). Clean the rocker chamber housing
with solvent.
Note: Do not dip the rocker chamber
housing with injector wire
harness and connector into
the solvent.
2). Blow it dry with compressed air.
2. Check rocker chamber housing

1). Check the rocker chamber housing,
especially the mounting surface of
cylinder head, for any crack or other
damages.
2). Check the bridged area in the middle
of rocker chamber housing for any
crack.
3). Check for any damaged or exposed

injector wire harness and connector
any bent or broken stylus, or
damaged connector.
4). Check the retaining clip of wire
harness, and fit the wire harness to
rocker chamber housing.
Replacement of rocker chamber housing 105

Refitting
1. Fit rocker chamber housing

1). Press moulded gaskets into various
corners of rocker chamber housing,
and then press remaining gaskets
into the housing.
Note: A new gasket must be used
after the removal of rocker
chamber housing.
2). Fit rocker chamber cover and the
mounting bolts of rocker chamber
housing.
Note: The outermost bolts on rocker
chamber housing are shorter
than the internal bolts.
3). Tighten mounting bolts from the
middle to both sides.
Note: If the applied torque is too

large, the terminal of injector
solenoid valve will bend,
causing fault. Do not
overtighten it.
2. Connect injector wire harness
1). Use torque wrench to tighten wire
harness of solenoid valve.
Tightening torque 1.5 N·m
3. Fit rocker chamber cover

cover”
106 Replacement of rocker chamber housing


5. Lay down the cab
Replacement of rocker chamber housing 107

IV. Removal and refitting of cylinder head with valve assembly

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Socket and wrench
Special tools Bolt length gauge
Testing tools Torque wrench, valve spring measuring apparatus and barometer
Auxiliary materials Sealant, cleaning cloth and SAE15W-40 oil

Removal
1. Tilt the cab
4. Drain engine oil

5. Disconnect all wire harness
connectors from the engine
Note: If the engine is not equipped
with components, or the
cylinder head can be removed
without removing the
components, then ignore the
following steps. For some
assemblies, when replacing or
refitting the cylinder head,
only remove its components.
108 Removal and refitting of cylinder head with valve assembly

6. Remove fuel filter and its seat

See “Replacement of fuel filter”
7. Remove intake pipe joint

See “Replacement of intake pipe joint”
8. Remove intake manifold
See “Replacement of intake manifold”
9. Remove drive belt

See “Replacement of drive belt”
10. Remove fan hub pulley

See “Replacement of fan hub pulley”
Removal and refitting of cylinder head with valve assembly 109

11. Remove fan hub assembly

See “Replacement of fan hub assembly”
12. Remove generator

See “Replacement of generator”
13. Remove coolant temperature sensor
See “Replacement of coolant
temperature sensor”
14. Remove turbocharger

See “Replacement of turbocharger”
15. Remove exhaust manifold

See “Replacement of exhaust manifold”


cover”
17. Remove rocker chamber housing

housing”
18. Remove fuel joint

See “Replacement of fuel joint”
19. Remove injector


20. Remove fuel return pipe

See “Replacement of fuel return pipe”
21. Remove high pressure feed pipe of

injector
See “Replacement of high pressure feed
pipe of injector”
22. Remove fuel rail

See “Replacement of fuel rail”
23. Remove cylinder head with valve

assembly
1). Unscrew bolts of cylinder head.

2). Put cylinder head inside its fixing

device.
3). Take down cylinder head gasket.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean cylinder head bolts
1). Clean bolts with gasoline-base
solvent.
2). Use wire brush, soft steel wire wheel
brush or non-abrasive shot blasting
to thoroughly clean deposits on rods
and threads.
2. Check cylinder head bolts

1). Visually check the bolts for damage,
corroded surface or reduced
diameter (as bolt is lengthened).
2). Visually check the cylinder head bolt
for corrosion or cavitation with depth
of over 0.12 mm.
3). Visually check the cylinder head bolt
for corrosion or cavitation with area
of over 1 cm2.

4). Check the free length of bolt with the

length gauge.
Standard size Max. 152.1 mm
Refitting
1. Fit cylinder head with valve assembly
1). Fit cylinder head gasket.
2). Fit cylinder head with valve

assembly.

3). Apply clean oil to threads of cylinder

head mounting bolts and under the
bolt end for lubrication.
4). Tighten cylinder head bolts in

sequence shown in the figure.
Tightening torque Step 1 90 N·m
Step 3 Rotate 90° clockwise
2. Fit injector
3. Fit fuel joint (onto the head)

See “Replacement of fuel joint”

4. Fit fuel rail to cylinder head

See “Replacement of fuel rail”
5. Fit injector feed pipe (high pressure)

See “Replacement of injector high
pressure feed pipe”
6. Fit fuel feed pipe

See “Replacement of fuel feed pipe”
7. Fit rocker chamber housing

housing”


cover”
9. Fit intake manifold

See “Replacement of intake manifold”
10. Fit intake manifold joint

See “Replacement of intake manifold
joint”
11. Fit exhaust manifold

See “Replacement of exhaust manifold”

12. Fit turbocharger

See “Replacement of turbocharger”
13. Fit generator

See “Replacement of generator”
14. Fit fan hub assembly

See “Replacement of fan hub assembly”
15. Fit drive belt


16. Fit fuel filter and its seat

See “Replacement of fuel filter and its
seat”
17. Connect the engine wire harness
connector
18. Connect all hoses connected to
cylinder head
See “Replacement of inlet/outlet hose”
19. Fill coolant
20. Fill engine oil

22. Run the engine and check for leakage
23. Lay down the cab

V. Replacement of rocker arm and its shaft

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Special tools
Testing tools Torque wrench (10~100 N·m), feeler gauge, dial indicator and micrometer
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, oil and sealant

Removal
1. Tilt the cab

cover”
4. Remove rocker arm and its shaft

assembly
1). Unscrew lock nuts of adjusting
screws.
2). Unscrew the adjusting screws until
they are standstill.
120 Replacement of rocker arm and its shaft

3). Remove bolts from rocker shaft seat.

4). Remove shaft seat and rocker arm
assembly. Mark the position once a
part is removed.
5). Remove jumper pressure plate. Mark
the position once a part is removed.
The jumper pressure plate and
rocker arm assembly must be fitted
to the original positions and in the
same directions.
5. Disassemble rocker arm and its shaft

assembly
1). Remove rocker arm shaft from rocker
arm.
Note: Do not remove socket from tip

of rocker arm. This part
cannot be repaired. If socket
is damaged, the rocker arm
must be replaced.
2). Remove lock nuts and adjusting

screws.
Replacement of rocker arm and its shaft 121

Cleaning and check

1. Clean rocker arm and its shaft
assembly
1). Clean all parts with the solution
prepared from the cleanser with high
concentration and hot water.
2). Rinse the parts with clean hot water.
Warning: Wear proper goggles and
face protector while using
compressed air. The
flying scraps will lead to
personal injury.
3). Dry parts with compressed air.

Note: Shaft seat, which is made of
metal powder, looks wet even
when it is dried after cleaning.
2. Check rocker arm

1). Visually check around the hole for
any crack or excessive wear.
2). Check whether the socket can move
freely along rocker arm, and whether
it is cracked.
3). Check whether the end of socket is
worn.
Note: Do not remove socket on the
tip of rocker arm. If the socket
is damaged, replace rocker
arm.
4). Measure diameter of rocker arm

hole.

3. Check rocker arm shaft seat and

rocker arm shaft
1). Measure diameter of rocker arm
shaft.
Note: It is normal that rocker arm
shaft has polished surface.
2). Apply clean 15W-40 oil to lubricate

rocker arm shaft.
3). Fit rocker arm shaft into rocker arm,
and rotate rocker arm for 180° along
the shaft. The rocker arm should
rotate freely, without any stagnation.
4). If rocker arm cannot rotate freely,
replace rocker arm shaft and rocker
arm.
Refitting
1. Assemble rocker arm and its shaft
assembly
1). Fit adjusting screw until it is
standstill, and fit lock nut.

rocker arm shaft.
3). Fit rocker arm shaft to rocker arm.

4). Fasten rocker arm to rocker arm

shaft seat.
2. Fit rocker arm and its shaft assembly

1). Fit jumper pressure plate to its
original place.

push rod ball socket.
3). Fit rocker arm assembly and shaft
seat to the original place.
4). Fit mounting bolts of shaft seat.

5). Tighten mounting bolts of shaft seat.

6). Rotate adjusting screw until it

contacts socket of push rod. In this
way, the push rod can be kept in
contact with the tappet and adjusting
bolt when the valve clearance is set
through rotating the engine.

See “Adjustment of valve clearance”

cover”
7. Lay down the cab

VI. Replacement of jumper pressure plate

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Special tools
Testing tools Torque wrench (10~100 N·m), feeler gauge, dial indicator and micrometer

Removal
1. Tilt the cab

cover”

assembly
See “Replacement of rocker arm and its
shaft assembly”
126 Replacement of jumper pressure plate

5. Remove jumper pressure plate
Cleaning and check

1. Clean jumper pressure plate
1). Clean jumper pressure plate with
solvent and blow it dry with
compressed air.
2. Check jumper pressure plate

1). Check the jumper pressure plate for
any crack, and its mating surfaces
with rocker arm and tip of valve for
excessive wear.
2). Check the contact pad for any crack
or other damages.
Note: If damaged, jumper pressure
plate should be replaced.
Refitting
1. Fit jumper pressure plate
1). There are a round hole and an oval
hole on jumper pressure plate. If a
new plate is fitted, it is unnecessary
to place the holes specifically. When
continuing to use the plate, make
sure the holes are located in original
places and in the same directions.
2). Fit jumper pressure plate to valve
stem.
Replacement of jumper pressure plate 127


shaft assembly”


cover”
6. Run the engine and check its
operating condition
128 Replacement of jumper pressure plate

VII. Replacement of push rod assembly

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Special tools
Testing tools Dial indicator
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, sealant, oil, hair brush and suds

Removal
1. Tilt the cab

cover”

assembly
shaft assembly”
Replacement of push rod assembly 129

5. Remove push rod assembly

1). Mark push rods for the convenience
of determining their positions.
2). Remove push rod.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean push rod assembly
1). Clean push rod with hot studs, and
blow it dry with compressed air.
2. Check push rod assembly

1). Check both ends of push rod for
wear, strain or other damages.
2). Check the place where the ball joint
and seat are pressed into push rod
for any crack.
3). Put the push rod on horizontal

surface and roll it. Check for its
straightness. If push rod is bent,
replace it.
Note: Do not use bent push rod, nor
try to straighten it. Otherwise,
the engine will be damaged.
130 Replacement of push rod assembly

Refitting
1. Fit push rod assembly
1). Fit push rods into valve tappet jack
according to the marks.
Note: Push rods must be fitted to
the original places.
push rod ball socket.

shaft assembly”


cover”
operating condition
7. Lay down the cab
Replacement of push rod assembly 131

VIII. Replacement of valve, valve spring and valve stem oil seal
Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Special tools Valve stem oil seal remover and valve spring compressor
Testing tools Valve spring gauge

Removal
1. Tilt the cab
4. Drain engine oil
132 Replacement of valve, valve spring and valve stem oil seal

assembly
See “Removal and refitting of cylinder
head with valve assembly”
6. Remove valve and valve spring
1). Mark valves for the convenience of

determining their positions.
2). Use valve spring compressor service
tool to compress valve spring.
3). Fasten screw (4) of remover above

the injector hole, and then fit two
bolts (5) and tighten them inside the
cylinder head whose clamp screw
has been removed.
Replacement of valve, valve spring and valve stem oil seal 133
Note: Clearance between valve and

injector hole is uneven. It is
important to align slot of valve
spring compressor plate with
valve spring.
4). Apply anti-seizure grease to thread
on the screw of remover.
5). Fasten valve spring compressor
plate to screw of remover, and align
slot on valve spring compressor plate
with valve spring.
6). Fit washer and nut to screw of
remover.
Warning: When valve spring is
tensioned, it will eject
once released. Wear
goggle with side shield
for fear of eye injury.
7). Rotate nut clockwise to compress

valve spring.
8). Rotate nut clockwise until valve
locking plate is removed with
magnetic tool, such as end of
magnetic screwdriver.
9). Remove service tool for valve locking
plate and valve spring compressor.
10). Remove valve spring seat and valve

spring.
11). Remove valve.

12). Put the valve onto the rack marked
with numbers in relation to valve
locking plate, spring seat and spring,
for the convenience of assembling.
13). Before removing the valve stem oil

seal, record the color of every valve
stem oil seal fitted into valve. While
assembling cylinder head, always fit
the valve stem oil seals in the same
color to one valve.
14). Use the clamp to remove valve stem
oil seal.
Check
1. Check valve
1). Check the valve for excessively worn
cylinder head and valve stem, and
check the tip of valve stem for
excessive wear, twisting or distortion.
2). Check whether the valve is
damaged, and whether the valve
locking plate slot is worn.
3). For every valve stem, measure its

outer diameter three times – being
40 mm, 90 mm and 140 mm away
from the top of valve stem
respectively.
Standard size 6.96~7.01 mm
Note: If the valve is damaged or the
valve stem is worn to be lower
than the specified minimum
value, the valve must be
replaced.
2. Check valve spring

1). Measure valve spring. Put a square
ruler next to spring, and measure the
clearance of top spring coil with a
feeler gauge.
Approximate free length(L) 47.75mm
Max. inclination 1.5 mm
2). Use valve spring tester to compress

valve spring. Compress spring to the
height of 35.33 mm, and apply the
load of 320.8~358.8 N.
Note: If the valve spring does not
conform to the technical
specification, a new valve
spring must be used.
3). Check the valve spring seat or valve

locking plate for damage or wear.
Note: Discard and replace the
damaged or worn parts.
Refitting
1. Fit valve and valve stem oil seal
1). Fit new valve stem seals in the same
color at the removal position.
2). Use valve stem mounting tool to fit a

new valve stem seal.
3). Apply SAE15W-40 oil to lubricate all
valve guide holes and valve stems.
Note: During installation, press the
valve with hands in case it
drops. Distinguish seal types
and positions, and discard the
used ones. If valve guide and
valve stem are not lubricated,
the valve guide will be worn
prematurely.
2. Fit valve spring

1). Fit valve spring and spring seat.
2). Use valve spring compressor service

tool to compress valve spring.
3). Fasten screw (4) of remover on the
top of injector hole, and then fit two
bolts (5) inside cylinder head whose
clamp screw has been removed.
4). Tighten bolt (5).
Note: Clearance between valve and
injector hole is uneven. It is
important to align slot of valve
spring compressor plate with
valve spring.
5). Apply anti-seizure grease to thread

on the screw (4) of remover. Always
read and follow the precautions on
labels.
6). Fasten valve spring compressor
plate (1) to screw (4) of remover, and
align slot of valve spring compressor
plate with valve spring.
7). Fit washer (3) and nut (2) to screw

(4) of remover.
Warning: When valve spring is

tensioned, it will eject
once released. Wear
goggle with side shield
for fear of eyes injury.
8). Compress valve spring until valve
locking plate can be fitted.
9). Fit valve locking plate.
Note: Apply lubricant or equivalent
to valve locking plate in order
to adhere it until valve spring
compressor is released.
10). Remove valve spring compressor
service tool.

5. Lay down the cab
IX. Replacement of valve seat ring

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Special tools Valve insert ring detacher
Testing tools

Removal
1. Tilt the cab

assembly
See “Removal of cylinder head with valve
assembly”
4. Remove valve, valve stem oil seal and

valve spring
See “Replacement of valve, valve stem
oil seal and valve spring”
Replacement of valve seat ring 139

5. Remove valve seat ring

1). Use hammer detacher and valve insert
ring detacher to remove valve seat.
Note: During installation, make sure
that valve insert ring detacher
assembly is perpendicular to
cylinder head.
2). Fit valve insert ring detacher assembly
into valve insert ring, and rotate
T-handle clockwise until the detacher
can clamp valve insert ring loosely.
3). Put valve insert ring detacher
assembly onto valve insert ring.
Screw T-handle tightly, and let the
detacher move into valve insert ring
or cutting groove.
4). Support the top nut to strike hammer
detacher until valve insert ring is
removed. Rotate T-handle
anti-clockwise to release valve insert
ring from detacher.
6. Grind valve/valve seat ring
1). Apply SAEl5W-40 oil to lubricate
valve stem before fitting the valve.
2). Apply thin layer of fine grinding agent
or the equivalent to valve evenly.
3). Exert pressure to the center of valve
with an electric or manual pumping
and grinding tool.
4). Rotate valve forward and backward.
Grind it until both the valve seat
insert ring and grinding agent on the
valve show uniform texture.
5). Clean away grinding agents from
various parts.
Refitting
1. Fit valve seat insert ring
1). While fitting the valve seat insert
ring, valve seat angle is different for
exhaust and intake valves:
Intake valve 30°
Exhaust valve 45°
2). If a new valve seat insert ring is
fitted, check for depth of valve and
test for valve leakage.
3). Grind valve/valve seat ring.
4). Clean away grinding agents from
various parts.
140 Replacement of valve seat ring

2. Fit valve, valve stem seal ring and

valve spring
seal ring and valve spring”
See “Replacement of cylinder head with
valve assembly”
5. Fill engine oil
6. Fill engine coolant

7. Lay down the cab
Replacement of valve seat ring 141

X. Replacement of cylinder head assembly

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Special tools Valve spring compressor and valve oil seal mounting tool
Testing tools Torque wrench, valve spring tester and barometer

Removal
1. Tilt the cab
3. Drain engine oil
142 Replacement of cylinder head assembly


assembly
6. Remove valve, valve stem oil seal and

valve spring
Cleaning
1. Clean cylinder head
1). Scrape off materials on the gasket,
and clean the combustion surface of
cylinder block and cylinder head.
2). Use a brush or equivalent tool to

clean off the carbon deposit on the
seat of injector.
Replacement of cylinder head assembly 143

3). Use hair brush to clean inner

diameter of valve guide hole, and
use compressed air to blow away
sundries.
4). Before cleaning off excessive

deposits inside acid solution box,
always remove expansion plug. If
necessary, clean the deposits inside
the coolant passage.
5). Clean the combustion surface of
cylinder head with manual grinding
pad/equivalent cleaning pad and
solvent.
6). Use quality steel wire wheel fitted on

the drill or mould to clean off deposits
on the valve shield.
7). If the valve seat insert must be

removed, use wire brush and solvent
to clean deposits in the holes of valve
seat insert ring.

9). Clean cylinder head with hot suds.

10). Rinse cylinder head with clean water.
11). Dry the cylinder head with
compressed air.
Check
1. Measure planeness of cylinder block
1). Check the planeness of cylinder
head combustion surface.
2). Use square ruler and feeler gauge to
check the planeness of cylinder head
combustion surface.
Front to back Max. 0.305 mm
Left to right Max. 0.076 mm
Note: If it is beyond the technical
specification, check whether
cylinder head can be
reprocessed.
2. Measure projection of injector
1). Fit depth gauge assembly to
combustion surface of cylinder head,
and reset it.
2). Rotate depth gauge, and measure
projection of injector on the highest
point of injector.
Note: Do not use thicker or
double-layer injector gasket to
correct projection of injector.
Otherwise, high pressure fuel
joints will not be aligned.
3). If projection of injector is beyond
technical specification, check the
thickness of injector gasket.
4). If sealing washer is of right thickness,
check that holes of injector are clean
and free from scraps. And make sure
that the gaskets do not block holes of
injector.

3. Measure valve depth

1). Rotate depth gauge for the
convenience of measuring the depth
from the valve depression to cylinder
head (B).
Intake valve 0.584~1.092 mm
Exhaust valve 0.965~1.473 mm
Note: The valve depth can be
somewhat increased for the
convenience of reprocessing
cylinder head by grinding
valve.
4. Use square ruler and feeler gauge to

measure planeness of cylinder block
Left to right Max. 0.075 mm
1). Check the combustion surface for
any local inclination or damage. If it is
beyond technical specification,
determine whether cylinder block can
be reprocessed, or must be replaced.
5. Check cylinder head for any crack

1). After cleaning cylinder head, check it
for any crack, wear or discoloration
which may hinder usage.
Note: Use crack detection assembly
to help identify crack on
cylinder block.
2). If the valve seat does not show any

crack, the cylinder head can be
reused.

3). If the valve seat shows crack or the

crack goes through it, the cylinder
head must be replaced.
4). If valve seat insert ring has been

removed as specified, measure inner
diameter of hole on valve seat insert
ring of cylinder head.
6. Check valve guide

1). Check the valve guide for scratch or
strain.
2). Check the inner diameter (I.D.) of
valve guide.
Refitting
1. Fit valve seat ring
See “Replacement of valve seat ring”

2. Fit valve, valve stem oil seal and valve

spring

4. Fill engine oil
operating condition

Cylinder block and flywheel housing

I. Replacement of rubber shock absorber assembly
Tools and auxiliary materials Name and model
Testing tools Torque wrench(10~100 N·m), universal meter and feeler gauge
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, oil, sealant and hair brush

Removal
1. Tilt the cab

4. Remove rubber shock absorber

1). Use turning gear to clamp
crankshaft.
2). Remove 6 mounting bolts on shock
absorber.
3). Remove shock absorber/crankshaft
speed indicator ring.
Note: The applied shock
absorber/crankshaft speed
indicator ring is:
1. fixed with bolts shared
with the shock absorber.
2. a part of shock absorber
assembly and cannot be
removed from shock
absorber.
Replacement of rubber shock absorber assembly 149

Cleaning and check

1. Clean shock absorber/crankshaft
speed indicator ring
1). Clean off oil from shock
absorber/crankshaft speed indicator
ring with suds.
2). Dry shock absorber/crankshaft
speed indicator ring with compressed
air.
2. Check shock absorber/crankshaft

1). Check the speed indicator ring for
any missing gears, cracked or
damaged surfaces.
Note: If crankshaft speed indicator
ring is fixed to shock absorber
and is damaged, the whole
shock absorber assembly
must be replaced.
2). Check whether the mounting panel

shows any crack.
3). Check for calibration mark on inner
and outer rings.
4). Check for marking line (A) on shock

absorber hub (B) and inertia element
(C). If the two lines deviate for more
than 1.59 mm, replace shock
absorber.
5). Check whether the shock absorber
hub shows any crack. If so, replace
shock absorber.
150 Replacement of rubber shock absorber assembly

6). Check whether rubber element is

aged. If rubber block is missing or
elastic element is lower than metal
surface by more than 3.18 mm,
replace shock absorber.
7). Check whether shock absorber ring
on hub moves forwards. If so,
replace shock absorber.
8). Measure and record thickness of

shock absorber at four positions.
Measure thickness of shock
absorber when it is 80.65 mm away
from the outside. If the thickness
changes more than 6.35 mm, replace
shock absorber.
Refitting
1. Fit shock absorber/crankshaft speed
indicator ring
1). Apply clean oil to lubricate bolts.
Note: Align crankshaft speed
indicator ring and shock
absorber with index pin in
front of crankshaft.
2). Fit shock absorber/crankshaft speed
indicator ring.
3). Use turning gear to clamp
crankshaft.
4). Tighten 6 bolts crosswise to shock
absorber.
Tightening torque Step 2 rotate 90°
2. Fit drive belt
4. Lay down the cab
Replacement of rubber shock absorber assembly 151

II. Replacement of front gear chamber cover

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Testing tools Torque wrench(10~100 N·m), universal meter and feeler gauge

Removal

3. Remove shock absorber/crankshaft

See “Replacement of shock
absorber/crankshaft speed indicator ring”
152 Replacement of front gear chamber cover

4. Remove fan hub pulley

See “Replacement of fan hub pulley”
5. Remove front gear chamber cover

Note: The engine with rear gear train
with cast aluminium front gear
chamber cover is set with two
threaded holes which can
assist to remove front gear
chamber cover. Viewed from
the front of front gear
chamber cover, a threaded
through hole is at the lower
right corner and it can be
used to jack screw. A
threaded blind hole is at lower
left corner. Insert a bolt into
blind hole, and apply it with
hammer. Do not use the blind
hole to jack screw, otherwise,
front gear chamber cover will
be damaged.
1). Remove mounting bolts of front gear
chamber.
Note: To remove the seal, pry front
gear chamber cover from
front gear chamber. Be careful
not to damage front gear
chamber cover while
removing front gear chamber
seal.
2). Remove front gear chamber cover.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean front gear chamber cover
1). Scrape off sealant on front gear
chamber cover and cylinder block.
2). Clean front gear chamber cover with
solvent or steam.
3). Dry gear chamber cover with
compressed air.
Replacement of front gear chamber cover 153

4). Clean oil on surface of crankshaft

and the remaining seals.
2. Check front gear chamber cover

1). Check whether the gear chamber
cover is cracked or damaged. If so,
replace front gear chamber cover.
Note: While replacing front gear
chamber cover, reuse parts of
damaged front gear chamber
cover, such as oil filler neck
pipe and fuel pump gear
access panel, etc.
2). Check whether front end of

crankshaft is excessively worn. For
engine with crankshaft front non-lip
oil seal, use fine abrasive cloth to
remove all drawing stamps or burrs.
Note: If sealing surface in front of
crankshaft is damaged, and
wear-resistant bushing is not
available, the crankshaft must
be replaced.
3). For oil sump – injection molding
gasket, remove old sealant, and
apply new sealant to the newly
installed flange on oil sump.
4). For standard oil sump - paper
gasket, check whether oil sump
gasket is damaged.
3. Check suspension oil sump – rubber
gasket
1). Check whether oil sump gasket is
damaged.
2). If the suspension oil sump gasket
with rubber oil sump gasket equipped
on the engine is damaged, always
remove the oil sump and replace the
whole gasket.

3). If paper gasket is damaged, repair it.

4). Cut the gasket to make it flush with
the front of cylinder block.
5). Cut the front of new gasket to be of
the same shape as the used gasket.
Refitting
1. Fit front gear chamber cover
1). Clean the sealing surface.
2). Apply sealant to both sides of new
gasket and make sure that there is a
layer of sealant around the
intersection of cylinder block, oil
sump and front gear chamber cover.
Note: The front gear chamber cover
must be fitted within 10 min
after sealant is applied.
3). Use ordinary wire or thin metal wire

to tighten gasket joints in place.
4). Apply a layer of sealant with width of

1.5-2.0mm around the cylinder block
side of front gear chamber cover
along the path shown in the figure.
Note: For engine whose front gear
chamber cover is equipped
with oil pressure
sensor/switch, do not plug oil
inlet between cylinder block
and front gear chamber cover
while applying sealant.
Otherwise, ECM will indicate
low oil pressure, and engine
will stop.

5). Fill sealant into mounting hole so that

the mounting hole (3) not in use on
cylinder block is not interfered by
sealing joints.
6). Apply sealant to intersection of

cylinder block, oil sump and front
gear chamber cover.
7). Use annular dowel pin to place front
gear chamber cover, and fit front gear
chamber cover to cylinder block.
Note: Before fitting front gear
chamber cover, make sure that
there is no bowl-plug on oil
passage port. Oil is supplied
from this port to engine oil
pressure switch fitted to front
gear chamber cover.
8). Fit front gear chamber cover to
mounting bolts of cylinder block, and
fit oil sump to mounting bolts of front
gear chamber cover. Do not tighten
the bolts by now.
2. Fit rubber shock absorber assembly
See “Replacement of rubber shock
absorber assembly”
3. Fit fan hub pulley

See “Replacement of fan pulley”

4. Fit drive belt


III. Replacement of front oil seal

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Wrench, socket, flat screwdriver and electric drill
Special tools Special tool for front oil seal
Testing tools Ruler, feeler gauge and torque wrench (10~100 N·m)

Removal
2. Remove drive belt of cooling fan

3. Remove shock absorber/crankshaft

absorber”
158 Replacement of front oil seal

4. Remove front crankshaft oil seal

Note: The crankshaft seal can be
removed and fitted without
removing the front gear
chamber.
1). Fit screw assembly (1) of remover to

front end of crankshaft.
2). Fit two M12×1.25×60 mm hexagon
socket head bolts (3).
3). Apply anti-seizure or appropriate

lubricating grease to lubricate screw
of remover.
4). Fasten the screw of remover, and fit
crankshaft seal remover (2) to the
screw assembly. Rotate crankshaft
seal remover clockwise, and push it
to seal until it is against the front gear
chamber.
5). Carefully drill holes vertically to

reduce possible damage to engine
cover or crankshaft. Flange of
crankshaft seal remover is 8 mm
thick.
6). Use adhesive tape to mark the
position with drilling depth of 18 mm
so as to control the depth, and apply
lubricating grease to the drill to
absorb metal scraps. Frequently stop
to clean off the scraps.
7). After crankshaft seal remover is
against front gear chamber, drill a
hole with depth of 10.1 mm, and
make sure that the marked adhesive
tape does not derivate from original
position.
Replacement of front oil seal 159

8). Fit a metal screw (4) to seal to

tighten crankshaft seal remover in
place.
9). Drill another 5 holes with depth of 10
mm, and fit 5 metal screws.
Note: Make sure that the 6 metal
screws are threaded, and go
through inner and outer seal
housings. Tighten metal
screws in the same way so
that inner and outer seal
housings are detached as a
whole. Do not use impact
wrench or pneumatic tool;
otherwise, the tool will be
damaged.
10). Slowly rotate the screw of remover

clockwise until the seal is removed.
Do not rotate over the torque.
11). After the removal, remove the tool
and discard the used seal.
Cleaning and check

Note: The figure shows removed
front gear chamber cover. The
illustration is for information
only.
1. Clean
1). Use solvent to clean oil and sealant
residues on crankshaft surface.
2). Dry the surface with compressed air.
3). Use fine abrasive cloth to clean off all
scratches and burrs.
2. Check front end of crankshaft
1). Check whether front end of
crankshaft is excessively worn.
Note: If sealing surface at front end
of crankshaft is damaged and
wear-resistant bushing is not
available, and if contact
surface of crankshaft front oil
seal is damaged, then the
crankshaft must be replaced.

Refitting
1. Fit oil seal
Note: Use tool (Part C3164659) to
fit oil seal to front gear
chamber cover.
1). Fit screw assembly (1) of remover to

front end of crankshaft.
2). Fit two M12×1.25×60mm hexagon
Note: Do not use impact wrench or

pneumatic tool; otherwise, the
tool will be damaged.
3). Put the new crankshaft front oil seal
to front end of crankshaft. Manually
slide it towards front gear chamber
cover as far as possible.
Note: Make sure that 4 corners of
seal are fixed by the
crankshaft.
4). While fastening the screw of
remover, fit crankshaft seal remover
(2) to the screw assembly.
5). Rotate crankshaft seal remover
clockwise, and push it to seal until it
is against the seal.
Note: After crankshaft seal remover
contacts with engine cover,
do not overtighten the screw
assembly of remover;
otherwise, tool will be
damaged.
6). While tightening crankshaft seal
remover, rotate remover screw
anti-clockwise until crankshaft seal
remover contacts front gear chamber
cover.
7). Remove service tool.
Replacement of front oil seal 161

2. Fit shock absorber/crankshaft speed

indicator ring
absorber”
3. Fit drive belt


IV. Replacement of rear oil seal

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Wrench, socket and flat screwdriver
Special tools Special tool for rear oil seal
Testing tools Torque wrench (10~100 N·m) and square ruler

Removal
2. Remove transmission and all relevant

components
See “Transmission assembly service
manual”
3. Remove flywheel assembly

See “Replacement of flywheel assembly”
Replacement of rear oil seal 163

4. Remove rear oil seal

1). Drill 2 holes on rigid part of oil seal in
180°
2). Fit 2 metal screws with coarse

threads into the drilled holes, and
use hammer to remove crankshaft
rear oil seal
Cleaning and check

1. Clean
1). Clean surface and hole of crankshaft
rear seal with solvent
2). Dry the surface with compressed air
2. Check crankshaft
1). Check whether crankshaft surface is
worn.
Note: If crankshaft is won

excessively, use
wear-resistant bushing to
service it. For engine with
crankshaft rear lip oil seal,
check whether there is worn
slot on contact area of
crankshaft and oil seal. If the
slot is deeper than 0.25mm,
wear-resistant bushing and
oversize seal must be used.
164 Replacement of rear oil seal

Refitting
1. Fit crankshaft rear oil seal

1). Clean the oil residue on the seal lip
and sealing surface of crankshaft to
avoid leakage.
2). For the convenience of installation,
apply neutral soup to outer neck of
seal housing (A).
Note: For engine with crankshaft
rear lip seal, the new seal
provides a seal guide tool (B).
While seal is fitted to front end
of crankshaft, it must remain
on seal guide tool, ensuring
that seal lip will not be
damaged during installation.
3). Put the new crankshaft rear seal

(seal guide tool is available if
necessary) on front end of
crankshaft, and slide it towards
flywheel housing
Note: Make sure 4 corners of seal is
fixed by the crankshaft.
4). Take out oil seal guide. Every new

crankshaft lip oil seal is equipped
with a disposable oil seal
screwdriver.
Note: For oil seal screwdriver (2)
(plastic ring usually) of engine
with rear gear train, fit
crankshaft oil seal to flywheel
housing hole for correct
depth.

5). For the engine with rear gear train,

the disposable plastic screwdriver
accompanied with the new
crankshaft rear oil seal is designed
for two types of oil seals.
Note: For double outer dust-proof
rear lip oil seal of crankshaft,
big chamfer side in inner
diameter of disposable
screwdriver (1) must contact
with oil seal. For single outer
dust-proof rear lip oil seal,
small chamfer side in inner
diameter of disposable
screwdriver (2) must contact
with oil seal. If the disposable
oil seal screwdriver is not
available, use a plastic
hammer to tap crankshaft rear
oil seal to help fit oil seal.
6). Use disposable seal driver for new

rear seal of the crankshaft to fit the
seal into housing for correct depth.
7). Use plastic hammer to press oil seal
into housing until it is aligned with the
tool and against the housing.
8). Knock the tool on position 12, 3, 6
and 9, and press the oil seal evenly
so that its bracket will not bend.
9). Use two metal screws (No. 10, 19

mm long) to fasten the disposable
screwdriver to crankshaft oil seal
remover.

10). After fitting crankshaft rear oil seal to

crankshaft flange as mentioned
above, fit screw assembly (1) of
remover to rear end of crankshaft.
11). Fit two M12×1.25×60 mm hexagon
Note: Do not use impact wrench or
pneumatic tool; otherwise, the
tool will be damaged.
12). Use anti-seizure or appropriate

lubricating grease to lubricate the
screw of remover. Tighten the screw,
and fit crankshaft seal remover (2) to
the screw assembly.
13). Rotate crankshaft oil seal remover
clockwise and push it towards seal
until the attached disposable
screwdriver is against crankshaft
rear oil seal.
Note: When crankshaft seal remover
contacts flywheel housing, do
not overtighten remover
screw assembly; otherwise,
the tool will be damaged.
14). While tightening crankshaft oil seal

remover, rotate the screw of remover
anti-clockwise until the disposable
screwdriver attached to remover
contacts flywheel housing.
15). Remove service tool.
2. Fit flywheel assembly


3. Fit transmission and relevant

components
See “Transmission service manual”

V. Replacement of rear gear chamber

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Special tools Rear oil seal mounting tool
Testing tools Micrometer, dial indicator and torque wrench(10~100 N·m)
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, hair brush, oil and sealant

Removal
2. Remove transmission
See “Replacement of transmission
assembly”

Replacement of rear gear chamber 169


ventilation pipe”
5. Remove crankshaft rear oil seal

See “Replacement of rear oil seal”
6. Remove flywheel housing

See “Replacement of flywheel housing”
7. Remove fuel pump

See “Replacement of fuel pump”
170 Replacement of rear gear chamber

8. Remove air compressor

See “Replacement of air compressor”
9. Remove camshaft gear

See “Replacement of camshaft gear”
10. Remove rear gear chamber

1). Remove the 4 bolts used to fasten oil
sump and rear gear chamber.
2). Use feeler gauge to separate oil

sump gasket from gear chamber.

3). Remove rear gear chamber bolts and

housing.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean rear gear chamber
1). Clean rear gear chamber with
solvent, and blow it dry with
compressed air.
2). Clean oil inlet on accessory driver.
Note: Oil supply/drain passage is
designed inside rear gear
chamber and it is connected
to the gear chamber. Make
sure that these passages are
free from scraps.
2. Check rear gear chamber

1). Check the rear gear chamber for any
sign of leakage or other damages.

Refitting
1. Fit rear gear chamber

1). For engine equipped with paper
gasket oil sump, check whether oil
sump gasket is damaged.
2). If oil sump gasket is torn, repair it.

Cut the front of new gasket to be of
the same shape as the old gasket.
Cut the gasket so that it is flush with
the front of cylinder block.
Note: If the suspension oil sump
gasket with rubber oil sump
gasket equipped on the
engine is damaged, always
remove the oil sump and
replace the whole oil sump
gasket. If sealant is applied
only between gear chamber
and oil sump of engine,
remove used sealant, fit
flange to oil sump and apply
new sealant.
3). Clean sealing surface.
4). Apply sealant to both sides of new

gasket. Make sure that there is a
layer of sealant around the
intersection of cylinder block, oil
sump and gear chamber.
Note: The gear chamber must be
fitted within 10 min after
sealant is applied.

5). Use ordinary wire or thin metal wire

to tighten new gasket in place.

1.5-2.0 mm around the cylinder block
side of gear chamber.
Note: Make sure to apply a layer of
sealant to position (1), (2) and
(3) around screw hole shown
in the figure. Make sure there
is a layer of sealant around
the intersection of cylinder
block, oil sump and gear
chamber.
7). Tighten all bolts in sequence as

shown.
Tightening torque MI0 47 N·m
8). Fit oil sump bolts from the unused

holes to put gasket in place.

9). Remove the wire or metal wire that

fastens gasket in place.
10). Fit the remaining 2 bolts onto oil

sump, and tighten them.
2. Fit camshaft gear

See “Replacement of camshaft gear”
3. Fit air compressor


4. Fit fuel pump

5. Fit flywheel housing



ventilation pipe”


9. Fit transmission


VI. Replacement of crankshaft rear end wear-resistant bushing

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Wrench, socket, flat screwdriver and electric drill
Special tools Rear oil seal mounting tool
Testing tools Torque wrench, square ruler and dial indicator

Removal

components

178 Replacement of crankshaft rear end wear-resistant bushing


5. Remove any components fitted to
flywheel housing
6. Remove wear-resistant bushing

1). After removing wear-resistant
bushing, refit flywheel housing.
2). If wear-resistant bushing is fitted in
advance, only use the chisel with
same width as the bushing. Use
hammer to tap it once or twice, and
leave the sign of chisel on
wear-resistant bushing. This will
enlarge the bushing for the
convenience of removal.
Note: Do not scratch or hurt
crankshaft with chisel. If
crankshaft is damaged, it
must be replaced. For engine
with rear gear train, if
wear-resistant bushing is
fitted in advance, remove
flywheel housing before
removing the bushing.
Cleaning and check
1. Clean crankshaft
1). For engine with rear gear train, clean

all sealant residues inside holes of
flywheel housing.
2). Use fine abrasive cloth to clean rust
or other deposits on crankshaft
flange.
3). Use clean cloth and solvent to clean
crankshaft flange.
Replacement of crankshaft rear end wear-resistant bushing 179

2. Check
1). Check flywheel holes for drawing
stamps or burrs. Use grinding pad or
the equivalent to eliminate any minor
damages.
2). Check crankshaft flange for drawing
stamps or burrs. Use grinding pad or
the equivalent to eliminate any minor
damages.
Refitting
1. Fit wear-resistant bushing
1). The new oversized seal and
wear-resistant bushing are fitted in
advance, and to be fitted to
crankshaft as an assembly (A:
Crankshaft oil seal) (B:
Wear-resistant bushing).
Note: Do not remove new
crankshaft rear oil seal from
wear-resistant bushing of
crankshaft rear oil seal.
Refitting seal to
wear-resistant bushing may
damage seal lip.
2). Apply a layer of neutral soap to outer
diameter of oil seal bracket while
fitting oil seal for the convenience of
installation.
3). Use service tool to fit crankshaft oil

seal and wear-resistant bushing
assembly.
4). Fit 2 stud bolts into bolt holes of
crankshaft.
5). Apply a little clean 15W-40 oil to
inside of mounting tools for
crankshaft, threaded stud bolt,
crankshaft rear oil seal and
wear-resistant bushing.

6). Put slotted end (A) of wear-resistant

bushing to crankshaft end (B).
7). Place reaming end of mounting tool
(C) to stud bolt, align it with
wear-resistant bushing and make it
perpendicular to crankshaft.
8). Fit washer (D) and nut (E) to stud
bolts.
9). The crankshaft rear oil seal bracket

for the engine with front gear train is
shown in the figure. For the engine
with rear gear train, the steps for
fitting wear-resistant bushing/oil seal
to holes on flywheel housing are the
same.
10). Tighten nut for 1/2 turn alternatively
until the mounting tool contacts
crankshaft side.
Note: Do not tighten the nut for
more than 1/2 turn in case that
wear-resistant bushing
adheres and extends
irregularly.
11). Remove mounting tool and
double-ended bolt.

Replacement of crankshaft rear end wear-resistant bushing 181

4. Fit transmission


VII. Replacement of crankcase ventilation pipe

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Wrench and air compressor
Special tools
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, sealant and hair brush

Removal
1. Tilt the cab

Note: For some crankcase, 6-bobes
recess head bolts are used to
fasten breather pipe joints to
1). Remove crankcase breather
mounting bolts.
2). Carefully pry crankcase breather
pipe from rocker chamber cover. Pull
up the pipe joint for the convenience
of removing it from rear gear
chamber.
Cleaning and check
1. Clean
1). Check the inside of crankcase
ventilation pipe for blockage or
sludge.
Note: If crankcase breather pipe is
blocked, it must be cleaned
with cleanser of high
concentration or replaced in
order to avoid too high
crankcase pressure.
2). Dry crankcase breather pipe with
compressed air.
3). Clean rocker chamber cover and rear
gear chamber port with clean towel
and solvent.
Replacement of crankcase ventilation pipe 183

2. Check crankcase ventilation pipe

1). Check the crankcase ventilation pipe
for any crack or deposits that may
block it. If damaged, the crankcase
breather pipe must be replaced.
2). Check the O-ring for breakage, tear

or embrittlement. If damaged, it must
be replaced.
Refitting
1). Before fitting crankcase breather
pipe, drop clean 15W-40 engine oil
on O-ring of crankcase breather pipe.
2). Fit crankcase breather pipe to rear

gear chamber.
3). Connect crankcase breather pipe to
rocker arm cover.
Note: For some crankcase, 6-bobes
recess head bolts are used to
fasten breather pipe joints to
4). Fit mounting bolts of crankcase
breather pipe.
184 Replacement of crankcase ventilation pipe


3. Lay down the cab
Replacement of crankcase ventilation pipe 185

VIII. Replacement of flywheel assembly

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Wrench, socket and slotted screwdriver
Testing tools Torque wrench(10~100 N·m), square ruler and micrometer
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, oil, hair brush and sealant

Removal

components
See “Transmission service manual”.

1). Use turning gear to fasten flywheel in
case it rotates.
2). Remove 2 bolts that are mounted in
180°.
3). Fit two M12×1.25×90 mm guide pins.
Note: If the clutch is used, the
thread of bolt fitted to the
clutch pressure plate may be
metric or standard. Make sure
that correct bolt is used.
186 Replacement of flywheel assembly

4). Determine pattern and specification

of thread of bolt, and fit two
T-handles to flywheel (position 1 and
2).
5). Remove the remaining 6 mounting
bolts from flywheel.
6). Remove flywheel from guide pin.
4. Disassemble flywheel assembly

Note: It is unnecessary to remove
guide bearing unless guide
bearing is damaged, new
clutch is to be fitted, or clutch
is overhauled.
1). Remove guide bearing.
2). Use a spindle and hammer to
remove guide bearing.
5. Clean guide hole
1). Use abrasive pad or the equivalent to
clean guide hole.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean flywheel
1). If guide bearing has been removed,
use wire brush to clean crankshaft
guide hole.
2). Clean flywheel with steam or solvent.
Replacement of flywheel assembly 187

2. Check flywheel assembly

1). Check for drawing stamps or burrs.
2). Use Scoth-BriteTM7488 abrasive pad
or the equivalent to eliminate small
drawing stamps or burrs.
3). Use crack detection assembly to

check whether the flywheel shows
any crack. Follow the operations
specified in the kit.
4). Check the flywheel ring gear for any

crack or notch. If any, the ring gear
must be replaced.
Warning: Do not use cracked or
finished flywheels which
may break and leads to
serious personal injury or
property damage.
Assembling
1. Fit new guide bearing
1). Use a spindle and hammer to fit
guide bearing. The bearing must be
flush with the end surface of guide
hole during installation.

Refitting
1). Fit two M12×1.25×90 mm guide pins

to crankshaft flange in 180°.
Note: If the clutch is used, thread of
bolt fitted to the clutch
pressure plate may be metric
or standard. Make sure that
correct bolt is used.
2). Determine pattern and specification

of thread of bolt, and fit two
T-handles to flywheel (position 1 and
2).
3). Check the rear end face of
crankshaft and mounting flange of
flywheel for any protruded drawing
stamps or burrs.
4). Fit flywheel to guide pin.
5). Apply clean oil to lubricate surface of

bolt and washer.

6). Fit 6 bolts, and remove T-handle and

guide pin.
7). Fit the remaining bolts to the holes of
the removed guide pin.
8). Use turning gear to fasten the
flywheel in case it rotates.
9). Tighten the bolts in starlike way.

2. Measure runout
1). Use micrometer (2) or the equivalent
and micrometer accessory (2) to
check runout of flywheel hole (3) and
end face (4).
2). Fit accessory to flywheel housing.
3). Fit micrometer to accessory.
4). Support inner diameter of flywheel
with the tip of micrometer, and reset
the micrometer.

for 360°.

6). If the indication is beyond technical

specification, remove flywheel and
check the mounting surface of
flywheel for dust or damage.
7). Check the crankshaft for dirt or
damage.
8). Fit flywheel.

9). Recheck runout of flywheel hole.
10). If the runout does not conform to

technical specification, replace
flywheel.
3. Measure runout of flywheel end face

1). Fit contact of micrometer opposite to
end face of flywheel.
2). Locate the contact so that it
conforms to radius specified in the
table. The contact should be close to
outer diameter of flywheel so as to
check runout of flywheel end face
(1).
3). Push flywheel forward to eliminate
axial clearance of crankshaft. Reset
the micrometer.


for 360°, and measure runout at 4
equidistant points on flywheel.
5). Push flywheel towards front end of
engine to eliminate axial clearance of
crankshaft for every measurement.
6). Determine reading of micrometer
(TIR).
7). TIR can be determined by calculating
difference between the maximum
measurement and the minimum
measurement.
8). Measure distance (A) from the center

of flywheel to the contact of
micrometer.
Max. runout (reading

Radius of flywheel
of micrometer) of
(A), mm
flywheel surface, mm
101.6 0.140
127 0.13
152.4 0.156
177.8 0.182
203.2 0.208
228.6 0.234
254 0.26
9). If runout of flywheel end face does

not conform to technical
specification, replace flywheel.
Check the mounting surface of
flywheel and crankshaft flange for
drawing stamps, burrs and foreign
matters.
10). If the runout does not conform to
technical specification, replace
flywheel.

4. Fit transmission assembly

manual”

6. Run the engine and check for any
noise or vibration

IX. Replacement of flywheel housing assembly

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Wrench, socket and slotted screwdriver
Testing tools Torque wrench and ruler
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, oil, hair brush and sealant

Removal
2. Remove starter
See “Replacement of starter assembly”
3. Remove transmission, clutch and all

relevant components
194 Replacement of flywheel housing assembly



See “Replacement of crankshaft rear oil
seal”
6. Remove flywheel housing assembly

1). Use lifting device or lifting tool to
support the back of engine.
2). Remove fastener of engine

Note: While removing fastener in
the back of engine, note any
positions where gasket or
spacer sleeve is used.
Replacement of flywheel housing assembly 195

3). Unscrew bolts of flywheel housing,

but not remove them.
4). Use rubber hammer to loosen
flywheel housing, in order to
separate the seal ring between the
housing and rear gear.
5). While supporting flywheel housing,
remove mounting bolts and flywheel
housing.
6). Record the position where bolts of
flywheel housing are removed. Some
bolt fasteners are of different
lengths/sizes, and they must be fitted
in the same positions where they
were removed.
7. Disassemble flywheel housing

1). Remove all screw plugs from
flywheel housing, and record their
positions.
2). Remove inspection cover plate and

gasket (if equipped).
3). Remove screw plug from turning

gear holes.

4). Remove the bolts used to fasten the

clamp plate of closed type crankcase
ventilation pipe adapter to flywheel
housing.
5). Remove base plate.
6). Remove crankcase ventilation pipe
adapter.
Cleaning and check
1. Clean flywheel housing assembly

1). Clean flywheel housing with steam or
solvent.
2. Check flywheel assembly

1). Check the flywheel housing,
especially the area where it is fitted
to cylinder block or rear gear
chamber for any crack.

2). Check whether the mounting surface

of flywheel drive unit shows any
crack.
3). Check whether there is any thread
damage resulting from slipped bolts
or incorrectly installed bolts.
Note: Spiral tap is available to repair
the damaged thread.
4). Check the rear end face of gear

chamber and the mounting surface of
flywheel for any protruded drawing
stamps or burrs.
5). Use quality fine abrasive cloth to
eliminate small drawing stamps and
burrs.
6). Thoroughly clean mating surface of
flywheel housing and gear chamber.
Assembling
1. Assemble flywheel housing assembly
1). Fit inspection cover plate and new
gasket.
2). Fit the bolts and tighten them.
Note: If gasket has not been
installed in advance, apply
sealant to surrounding of the
inspection cover plate.
3). Fit the turning gear hole plug with
new O-ring.
4). Apply clean engine oil to lubricate

O-ring on crankcase ventilation pipe
joint adapter. Fit breather pipe joints
inside flywheel housing.
5). Fit bolt and base plate, and fasten
breather joints to flywheel housing.

Refitting
Note: Before fitting flywheel
housing, make sure that all
locating pins are in the same
positions where they were
removed.
1. Fit flywheel housing assembly
1.5-2.0 mm around the back of
flywheel housing.
2). Fit flywheel housing and bolt.
3). Tighten mounting bolts of flywheel

housing in sequence shown in the
figure.
2. Calibrate end face

1). Determine the position of end face by
the reading of micrometer (TIR).
2). Use mounting tool to connect
micrometer to crankshaft.
Note: Do not insert contact of
micrometer into screw hole;
otherwise, micrometer will be
damaged.
3). Move pointer of micrometer to 12
o’clock position, and reset it.
Note: During every measurement,
the crankshaft must be
pushed toward front end of
engine to eliminate axial
clearance.
slowly.
Note: While using service tool to
turn the engine, be careful not
to exert too much lateral load
to flywheel housing.
Otherwise, flywheel housing
will move, and measurement
will be incorrect.

5). Record the readings when the

pointer is at 3 o’clock (A), 6 o’clock
(B) and 9 o’clock (C) positions.
Values at A, B and C positions can
be either positive or negative.
6). Rotate crankshaft until micrometer

reaches 12 o’clock position.
7). Reset the micrometer; otherwise, its
pointer will not move in the following
measurement.
8). Determine reading of micrometer

(TIR).
9). TIR can be determined by calculating
difference between the maximum
measurement and the minimum
measurement. In the example shown
in the following figure, TIR equals to:
+0.08mm-(-0.05mm)=0.13mm
12 o’clock 0.00mm
3 o’clock +0.08mm
6 o’clock -0.05mm
9 o’clock +0.08mm
Equal to TIR 0.13mm
Note: The maximum permissible

total reading for micrometer
(TIR) is determined by
diameter of flywheel housing
hole. If it is beyond technical
specification, replace flywheel
housing.

3. Calibrate flywheel hole

1). Use mounting tool to connect
micrometer to crankshaft.
Note: If the lengthened rod is loose
or micrometer slips, accurate
reading will be unavailable.
2). Put the pointer of micrometer to 6
o’clock position, and make it zero.
3). Rotate crankshaft slowly, and take

the readings when pointer is at 9
o’clock, 12 o’clock and 3 o’clock
position, and record them as A, B
and C in Concentricity Worksheet.
4). Check zero position when the pointer
is at 6 o’clock position. If the pointer
does not move, the reading is
incorrect, and this step should be
performed again.
5). Values of A, B and C can be either

positive or negative. Refer to the
attached drawing to decide the sign.
6). Rotate crankshaft until pointer of
micrometer stops at 12 o’clock
position, and reset the micrometer.
7). Use crowbar to pry rear end of
crankshaft to the highest position.
Record it as d in Concentricity
Worksheet. This value is the
adjusting range of bearing vertical
clearance, and should always be
positive.
8). Set up a Concentricity Worksheet

according to the specification, and
determine “Total Vertical” and “Total
Horizontal”.
9). Enter the value of a, b, c and d in
Concentricity Worksheet.
Total Horizontal equals to reading at 9
o’clock position (a) minus reading at 3
o’clock position (c).
Total Vertical equals to reading at 12
o’clock position (b) plus bearing
clearance (d).
For example:

• 6 o’clock position=Reference value=0

• 9 o’clock position=(a)=0.004
• 12 o’clock position=(b)=0.003
• 3 o’clock position=(c)=(-0.002)
10). Using figures in the worksheet and in
this example, total horizontal
value=0.006 and total vertical
value=0.005.
11). As illustrated, mark total horizontal
value in horizontal direction and total
vertical value in vertical direction in
the chart.
12). Use square ruler to determine
intersection point of total horizontal
value and total vertical value.
Intersection must be within the
shadow area to ensure that
concentricity of flywheel housing
conforms to technical specification.
13). Using total horizontal and vertical
values in the previous example, the
intersection point is within the
shadow area. Therefore,
concentricity of flywheel housing
conforms to technical specification.
Note: While comparing the
measured values, make sure
that correct technical
specification for total reading
of micrometer (TIR) is applied
to measure flywheel housing.
14). SAE2 flywheel housing chart.
15). SAE3 flywheel housing chart.

Note: Do not remove locating pin

inside rear gear chamber
while trying to relocate
flywheel housing. It is
necessary to use locating pin
to position rear gear chamber
on cylinder block correctly.
Incorrectly positioned gear
will damage engine.
16). Determine whether the flywheel
housing, rear gear chamber or
cylinder block has been replaced
recently. If these components have
been replaced, remove and
check/replace the components.
17). Remove flywheel housing. Check for

mounting surface of rear gear
chamber and flywheel housing. If no
damage exists, remove rear gear
chamber and check for mounting
surface of cylinder block and rear
gear chamber.
4. Fit rear bracket and bolts of engine

1). Fit all the gaskets and spacer
sleeves to the positions where they
were removed.
2). Lay down the back of engine.

3). Fit the fasteners of engine rear
suspension. Tighten them according
to technical specification.
4). Move lifting tools or lifting devices
away from the back of engine.



7. Fit starter assembly

8. Fit transmission



X. Replacement of cylinder block

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Dial indicator, torque wrench (10~100 N·m), square ruler and feeler
Testing tools
gauge
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, sealant and oil
Removal
3. Drain engine oil
4. Remove engine
1). Remove engine and put it onto the
bracket.
206 Replacement of cylinder block

5. Remove starter assembly

6. Remove transmission assembly

assembly”
7. Remove fuel pump assembly

See “Replacement of fuel pump
assembly”
8. Remove air compressor assembly

See “Replacement of air compressor
assembly”
Replacement of cylinder block 207

9. Remove water pump assembly

See “Replacement of water pump
assembly”
10. Remove oil pump assembly

See “Replacement of oil pump assembly”


See “Replacement of flywheel housing
assembly”


See “Replacement of rear gear chamber”

assembly
15. Remove camshaft assembly

See “Replacement of camshaft
assembly”
16. Remove oil sump assembly

See “Replacement of oil sump assembly”

17. Remove piston assembly

See “Replacement of piston assembly”.
18. Remove crankshaft assembly

See “Replacement of crankshaft
assembly”
Cleaning and check

1. Initial check
1). Check for any sign of damage or
leakage on stopcock, expansion plug
and straight thread plug.
2). If there are excessive metal scraps or
contaminants, cylinder block must be
cleaned thoroughly for continuous
use. Remove all stopcocks,
expansion plugs and straight thread
plugs as necessary.
2. Clean cylinder block

1). Thoroughly clean all gasket residues
on the sealing surface.
2). Clean oil hole of cylinder block with
cleaning solvent and non-metal
brush.

3). Make sure that all oil and coolant

pipes are clean.
4). Rinse cylinder block in cleaning box.

5). Clean cylinder block thoroughly with
steam.
6). Dry cylinder block with compressed
air.
Note: If cylinder block will not be
used immediately, apply a
layer of oil to prevent rusting.
Cover cylinder block in case
dirt adheres to oil.
3. Check cylinder block
1). Use crack detection assembly to help
identify crack on cylinder block.
2). Check main bearing cover and main

bearing saddle areas for crack, wear
or discoloration.
Note: If cracked, the cylinder block
must be replaced.
3). Check whether there is damaged

thread inside threaded hole. The
spiral thread insert ring can be used
to repair all damaged threads.
Note: The spiral thread insert ring
cannot be used to repair
thread bolt hole of main
bearing saddle. If damaged,
cylinder block must be
replaced.

4). Check whether cylinder bore is

glazed.
Note: For surface that is not glazed
but reticulated, the line and
top of cylinder bore form an
angle of 25° to 30°.
5). Check whether the camshaft hole is

scratched, abraded or excessively
worn.
6). Process camshaft hole to enlarge its
size so as to fit standard camshaft
bushing.
7). If the damaged hole cannot be
processed or camshaft bushing has
been fitted before, cylinder block
must be replaced.
4. Measure
1). Cylinder block cannot be measured
unless main bearing cover is fitted to
the block and then the block is put in
a plane. If the cylinder block is fitted
to engine support and/or main
bearing cover is not fitted, the
measured value will be inaccurate
due to distortion. (Cylinder bore,
main bearing hole and camshaft
bearing hole, etc.)
2). Make sure that main bearing cover is

correctly fitted to the position where it
was removed, with the number facing
the side of engine oil cooler.
3). Make sure that aggregation surface
between main bearing cover and
cylinder block is clean and free from
scraps.
4). Fit the main bearing cover without
main bearing. Fit main bearing cover
in place, and align main bearing
cover locating pin ring with cylinder
block.

5). The positions of main bearing cover

have been numbered starting from
No. 1 at the front of cylinder block
during removal.
Note: During installation, number on
the cover must be consistent
with that on inner bearing
saddle of cylinder block. The
tongue on main bearing
saddle and bearing cover
must be at the same side.
6). Fit main bearing cover. Make sure to
align annular locating pin on main
bearing cover with corresponding
hole on cylinder block.
threads and screws of main bearing
bolts.
8). Use plastic or rubber hammer to tap

main bearing cover in place. After
main bearing cover is in place, fit
main bearing bolts.
Note: The following torque values
are not applicable for fitting
main bearing
cover/crankshaft. They are for
measurement only.
9). Tighten main bearing bolt evenly in
proper order.
Tightening torque l76 N·m
10). Check the camshaft hole without
camshaft bushing.
Diameter of camshaft bore without bushing
(max.)
mm
Camshaft bore (camshaft
bushing has been fitted 59.248
before)
Camshaft bore (camshaft
bushing has not been 54.164
fitted before)

11). If camshaft bushing has been fitted

before and camshaft bore does not
conform to technical specification,
cylinder block must be replaced.
Enlarged camshaft bushing is not
available.
12). If camshaft bushing has not been
fitted before and camshaft bore is
damaged or does not conform to
technical specification, the camshaft
bore can be oversized to fit the
standard camshaft bushing.
13). Process the damaged hole to the
maximum value 59.248 mm to fit
standard bushing.
14). Check whether tappet hole shows

drawing stamps or excessive wear.
15). Measure tappet hole.
Note: If tappet hole does not
specification, cylinder block
must be replaced.
16). Measure the main bearing hole after

bearing is removed.
Note: If diameter of main bearing
hole does not conform to
technical specification, check
whether main bearing cover is
fitted at right position and in
correct direction.
17). If main bearing cover is fitted
correctly, cylinder block must be
replaced.

18). Measure planeness of cylinder block.

Left to right Min. 0.051 mm
19). Check for partial inclination or defect.
If any, process the top of cylinder
head or replace cylinder block.
Note: If appropriate piston
projection can be reached
after the surface is
reprocessed, combustion
surface of cylinder block has
to be reprocessed. Special
gasket with increased
thickness is not available for
reprocessing. If appropriate
piston projection cannot be
reached by reprocessing
combustion surface, cylinder
block must be replaced.
20). Check whether cylinder bore is
damaged or excessively worn.
Note: Measure cylinder bore within
50 mm from combustion
surface of cylinder block.
Otherwise, the value will be
inaccurate.
21). Use inside dial indicator to measure
cylinder bore at 4 positions being 90°
on the top and bottom of piston
stroke area.
Note: For 4.5 L and 6.7 L engine,
cylinder can only apply the
oversized piston and (enlarge
by 1.5 mm) the enlarged bore.
If cylinder bore must be
enlarged by more than 1.5
mm, service socket cannot be
fitted.
Repair
1. Polish
1). Before repairing cylinder bore,
always use waterproof adhesive tape
to cover oil hole and tappet hole on
the top of cylinder block.

2). Polish surface of cylinder bore so

that it is smooth enough to fit piston
ring. Polish cylinder bore when it is
within technical specification.
Note: Do not fit new piston ring to
the polished cylinder bore.
3). Use spheroidal grinding stone to

polish it with rotational speed of
300~400 RpM for one stroke at the
top and bottom in one second.
Note: Always apply quality boring
oil or equivalent mixture of
SAE30W engine oil and diesel
fuel as boring lubricant.
4). If cylinder bore does not conform to

technical specification or is
damaged, polish its surface so as to
fit oversized piston and piston ring.
Note: The cylinder can only be
bored by the specialist on
cylinder boring machine.
Make sure that cylinder is
perpendicular to combustion
surface, and is within
technical ranges for taper and
out of roundness of cylinder
bore.
5). Follow cylinder boring machine
manufacture’s recommendation to
adjust the machine for the best
quality bore.
Note: The following bore diameter is
not the final size. The final
size is obtained by final
boring operation:
Standard size 107.45 mm
Note: Maximum cutting depth must
be within 0.228 mm. The bore
can be enlarged only once for
4.5 L and 6.7 L engine. If the
cylinder bore is bored, or
damage in bore cannot be
eliminated, cylinder block
must be replaced.

6). After boring, use grinding stone to

round off bore in 15° for about 1.25
mm.
7). After the bore is enlarged, boring of

two phases is required for polishing
cylinder bore. Special quality
equipment for boring cylinder is
recommended.
8). Only spheroidal grinding stone is
recommended for polishing cylinder
wall (it is unnecessary to rebore or fit
service socket).
9). Bore with rotational speed of

300~400RPM for one stroke on the
top and bottom in one second.
Always apply quality boring oil or
equivalent mixture of SAE30W
engine oil and diesel fuel as boring
lubricant.
10). For boring or rough grinding at the
first phase, use soft 80# silicon
carbide grinding stone (cut quickly).
Grind cylinder to final size at this
phase.
11). For boring and fine boring at the

second phase, use 285#
medium-hard silicon carbide grinding
stone. Bore the cylinder for 15 to 20
times to produce appropriate
reticulate pattern.

Note: Correctly polished surface is

reticulated, with inclination of
25° to 30° between line and
top of cylinder bore.
12). After polishing and fine grinding, use

hot water and detergent with high
concentration to clean cylinder bore
until cleanser is washed off.
Note: Clean cylinder bore
immediately after cylinder
bore is polished and finely
ground. Otherwise, engine will
be damaged.
13). Dry cylinder block with compressed
air.
Note: After cleaning, make sure to
remove adhesive tape
covering tappet hole.
Otherwise, engine will be
damaged.
14). Use white, lint-free cloth with some

oil to wipe cylinder bore. Check for
cleanness.
Note: If particle residue remains,
perform cleaning again until
they are all washed off.
15). If cylinder block will not be used

immediately, apply rust inhibitor to all
the machined surfaces. Make sure to
cover cylinder block to avoid the
deposit of dirt and scraps inside and
outside cylinder block.

16). If cylinder block is replaced or the

preserved cylinder block is applied,
always clean away all the oil and rust
inhibitor on cylinder bore, gasket
sealing area and main bearing hole.
Note: If total mass is over 23 kg,
please apply lifting device or
lift the assembly with
assistance from others in
case of personal injury.
Refitting
1. Fit crankshaft assembly
See “Replacement of crankshaft
assembly”
2. Fit piston connecting rod assembly

See “Replacement of piston connecting
rod assembly”
3. Fit oil pump assembly

See “Replacement of oil pump assembly”

4. Fit oil sump assembly

5. Fit camshaft assembly

See “Replacement of camshaft
assembly”

7. Fit water pump assembly

See “Replacement of water pump
assembly”



assembly”



12. Fit fuel pump assembly

assembly”
13. Fit air compressor assembly

See “Replacement of air compressor
assembly”

manual”

See “Replacement of engine assembly”
16. Fill engine oil


and abnormal noise

XI. Replacement of cylinder block reinforcement plate

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Special tools
Auxiliary materials Sealant
Removal
2. Drain oil
3. Remove oil sump

See “Replacement of oil sump”
224 Replacement of cylinder block reinforcement plate

4. Remove oil suction pipe

See “Replacement of oil suction pipe”
Note: For some oil sump and oil
suction pipe configurations,
reinforcement plate bolts of
cylinder block next to oil
suction pipe can be different
from other bolts. If the bolts are
equipped, note their mounting
positions. In some applications,
the bolt for the configuration
with bottom cover can ensure
adequate clearance between
mounting bolts of oil suction
pipe and cylinder block
reinforcement plate.
5. Remove cylinder block reinforcement
plate
Cleaning and check

1. Clean and check cylinder block
reinforcement plate
1). Clean cylinder block reinforcement
plate with solvent, and blow it dry
with compressed air.
2). Check if the cylinder block
reinforcement plate shows any crack.
If damaged, it should be replaced.
Refitting
Note: Cylinder block reinforcement
plate must be fitted to bend
center rib and make it deviate
from cylinder block, ensuring
adequate clearance from main
cover of cylinder block. For
some oil sump and oil suction
pipe configurations, mounting
bolt of one cylinder block
reinforcement plate is
different from other bolts.
Replacement of cylinder block reinforcement plate 225

1. Fit cylinder block reinforcement plate

1). The bolt for configuration with bottom
cover should be fitted to the opening
next to oil suction pipe. In some
applications, this bolt can ensure
adequate clearance between
mounting bolts of oil suction pipe and
cylinder block reinforcement plate.
2). Fit cylinder block reinforcement plate
with the grooved extension next to oil
suction pipe in the front of engine.
3). Fit mounting bolts of cylinder block
reinforcement plate.
2. Fit oil suction pipe

3. Fit oil sump

4. Fill engine oil

226 Replacement of cylinder block reinforcement plate

Timing gear mechanism and camshaft

I. Replacement of camshaft and camshaft timing gear
Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Special tools Gear puller
Testing tools Torque wrench (10~100 N·m), dial indicator and micrometer
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, oil, sealant, hair brush and plastic hammer
Removal
Note: The camshaft must be
removed from flywheel end of
engine.

components
Replacement of camshaft and camshaft timing gear 227




cover”
6. Remove rocker arm assembly

See “Replacement of rocker arm
assembly”
228 Replacement of camshaft and camshaft timing gear


See “Replacement of push rod assembly”
8. Lift tappet
9. Remove camshaft and camshaft gear

1). Start engine, and align camshaft with
timing mark on crankshaft gear.
Note: For engine equipped with air
compressor, timing for air
compressor and engine is
required. Mark an alignment
line on air compressor and
camshaft gear before
removing camshaft gear, to
ensure that timing of air
compressor can be correct
during subsequent fitting of
camshaft gear.
2). Loosen mounting fastener of air

compressor.
Note: Loosening or removing some
drive devices attached to air
compressor can leave enough
clearance for removing
camshaft gear.
3). Remove the 2 bolts used to fasten air
compressor bracket.
4). Screw out bolts of camshaft gear,

and remove camshaft gear.

5). Remove bolts of thrust plate and

thrust plate.
6). Connect gear puller or the equivalent

tool to camshaft end with camshaft
gear which can be used as a handle.
This can keep correct balance for the
convenience of camshaft removal.
7). Use the mounted gear puller to slide
camshaft out of camshaft hole.
Note: Without support, camshaft
will drop off as long as it
moves across the last
bushing. In this case,
camshaft journal or camshaft
speed indicator ring will be
damaged (if equipped).
8). Remove hexagon socket head bolt

(1), camshaft speed indicator ring (2)
and locating pin ring (3) if equipped
from the camshaft end.
Note: Make an alignment line on air
compressor and camshaft
gear before removing
camshaft gear.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean camshaft
1). Clean components with solvent, and
blow them dry with compressed air.

2. Check camshaft
1). Check the camshaft bushings at the
same end of engine where the
camshaft has been removed.
2). Check various bearing journals of

valve cam for crack, cavitation or
drawing stamps.
3). Make sure that locating pin of
camshaft gear is in place and free
from bending, breakage or cracking.
4). Within the cam nose end (±20°) of

camshaft, the worn area along the
edge should be no more than the
area of a circle with diameter of 2
mm.
5). Outside the cam nose end (±20°) of

camshaft, the worn area along the
edge should be no more than the
area of a circle with diameter of 6
mm.
Note: If the camshaft shows any
sign of cavitation or wear
remove tappet and check it
before fitting camshaft. If a
new camshaft is fitted, fit a
new tappet as well.

6). Measure the diameter at the highest

point of camshaft valve cam.
Intake valve 47.175~47.855 mm
Exhaust valve 45.632~46.312 mm
7). Measure camshaft bearing journal.

8). Measure the thickness of camshaft

thrust plate.
Note: If camshaft thrust plate does
specification, replace it.
3. Check camshaft gear

1). Check the camshaft gear for any
crack or chipped or broken teeth, and
check the gear hole for scratch or
burr.

2). Check whether there is burr on

keyway of camshaft gear.
Refitting
1. Fit camshaft and camshaft gear
1). For engine equipped with the shown
camshaft, fit hexagon socket head
bolt (1), camshaft speed indicator
ring (2) and locating pin ring (3) to
camshaft.
2). Apply fitting lubricant to the hole of

rear camshaft.

3). Apply fitting lubricant to lubricate

camshaft cam, journal and thrust
washer.
4). Connect gear puller or the equivalent

tool to camshaft end with camshaft
gear which can be used as a handle.
This can work as a leverage for the
convenience of camshaft refitting.
5). Push it in gently, rotate camshaft and

carefully thread camshaft through
camshaft bushing. When every
camshaft journal is across the
bushing, camshaft will sink slightly
and its cam will be fastened to
bushing. Rotate camshaft to release
cam from bushing so as to fit
camshaft.
Note: Do not force to fit camshaft
into its hole, otherwise,
camshaft bushing will be
damaged.
6). Fit thrust plate.

Note: Camshaft must be able to
rotate freely for fear of
damaging the engine.

7). Align timing mark on camshaft gear

with that on crankshaft gear, and
tighten bolts on camshaft.
Note: If air compressor is equipped,
make sure to align marking
line on camshaft gear with
that on air compressor gear
while removing camshaft
gear.
8). Rotate camshaft to align camshaft

locating pin with groove on camshaft
gear.
9). Fit camshaft gear and bolts.

10). Use gauge and magnetic base to
check for correct lateral and axial
clearance of camshaft.
Lateral clearance of camshaft
0.10~0.36 mm
Axial clearance of camshaft
0.076~0.28 mm
11). Lay down tappet.
2. Fit push rod


3. Fit rocker arm assembly

assembly”


cover”

assembly”



manual”

and loose components

II. Replacement of tappet

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Special tools Groove
Testing tools Dial indicator and micrometer
Removal
cover”
3. Remove rocker arm assembly

assembly”
238 Replacement of tappet


5. Push dowel rod into tappet

1). Use a soft faced hammer to push
locating pin into tappet.
Note: If fitted correctly, the locating
pin can be used to pull up
tappet and pull it out with
appropriate force.
2). Pull up all valve tappets until they

contact cylinder block, and wrap 2
locating pins with rubber tape. In this
way, tappets will separate from
camshaft.
6. Remove camshaft
See “Replacement of camshaft”
Replacement of tappet 239

7. Insert groove
1). Insert groove from replacement
assembly of tappet to the bottom of
cam hole.
2). Make sure that groove is fitted in
place. The tappet can drop into
groove after wooden locating pin is
taken out.
8. Take out tappet assembly

1). Take out only one tappet every time.
2). Mark the position where tappet is
removed. The tappet must be fitted
to the same position when engine is
assembled.
3). Take off rubber tape from 2 mating
tappets.
4). Fasten the tappet which is not
removed together with rubber tape.
5). Usually the tappet falls down when it

drops into the groove. However, if it
does not fall down, sway groove
slightly to make it fall down, and then
take it out.
6). Pull the wooden locating pin out of
tappet hole so that tappet will fall into
groove.
7). Pay special attention not to knock or

sway tappet at the end of groove.

8). Pull groove and tappet out of

camshaft hole carefully, and repeat
the above steps to remove all
tappets.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean tappet assembly
1). Clean tappet with solvent and blow it
dry with compressed air.
2. Check tappet assembly

1). Check the surfaces of tappet base,
handle and tappet for wear, crack
and other damages.
2). Check the surface of tappet.

3). Measure valve tappet handle.

Note: If the shank of tappet does not
specification, replace tappet.
Always check whether the
tappet hole is worn.
Refitting
1. Fit tappet assembly
1). Insert groove from replacement

assembly of tappet to the bottom of
cam hole.
2). Put mounting tool of tappet

downward into hole of ejector sleeve.
And insert it into the groove through
tappet hole.

3). Carefully pull metal groove/mounting

tool to the front of engine so as to
send the tool into mounting hole of
camshaft.
4). Usually the tool can be pulled out by
the baffle at the end of groove.
5). Use fitting lubricant or the equivalent

to lubricate tappet.
6). Before fitting tappet, insert the

mounting tool into tappet and draw it
out for several times to facilitate its
removal after fitting.
7). Insert mounting tool (slotted plug with

wire) into tappet again.
8). Slide groove into camshaft hole.

9). Pull out mounting tool and tappet

from camshaft hole, and insert it into
tappet hole.
10). If tappet cannot drop into groove

smoothly, bend groove upward,
insert it into tappet hole and pull
groove out enough so that tappet will
fall and align with tappet hole
naturally.
11). Pull tappet upward into hole.
12). Push metal groove into camshaft

hole again and rotate it for 1/2 turn
after tappet is fitted in place. The arc
part of metal groove will be upward to
support tappet in place.
13). Remove mounting tool from tappet.

14). Fit wooden pin rod to top of tappet.

15). Wrap rubber tape around wooden pin
rod to fasten tappet.
16). Repeat this process until all the
tappets are fitted well.
2. Fit camshaft
See “Replacement of camshaft”
3. Fit push rod assembly

4. Fit rocker arm assembly

assembly”



cover”


Crankshaft and piston connecting rod assembly

I. Replacement of crankshaft and main bearing bush
Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Wrench, socket, flat screwdriver and plastic hammer
Special tools Turning gear
Testing tools Micrometer, dial indicator and torque wrench (10~100 N·m)
Auxiliary materials Oil, cleaning cloth, hair brush and sealant
Removal
1. Remove engine and put it on its
bracket
2. Remove transmission assembly

Replacement of crankshaft and main bearing bush 247




assembly”

248 Replacement of crankshaft and main bearing bush



9. Remove oil sump

plate
11. Remove crankshaft assembly

1). Mark clearly the position at the oil
filter side on main bearing cover and
cylinder block before removing the
cover. No. 1 bearing cover is in the
front of engine.

2). Completely unscrew bolts of main

bearing, but do not remove them.
3). Use 2 bolts of main bearing cover to
sway main bearing cover. Note not to
damage thread of bolt.
4). Remove main bearing cover.
Note: Do not pry main bearing cover
from cylinder block;
otherwise, main bearing cover
and cylinder block will be
damaged.
5). Follow this step to remove all upper
main bearings except for No. 1 front
main bearing.
6). Fit main bearing puller to oil hole of
crankshaft main bearing journal to
remove upper main bearing.
so that puller will contact upper main
bearing on the opposite side of
locating tab.
8). Rotate crankshaft in the direction
where locating tab (1) of upper main
bearing can be removed at first.
9). Remove main bearing. Use flat
screwdriver to tap the end of bearing,
and remove the bearing from cylinder
block. Press main bearing bush with
fingers and rotate crankshaft for the
convenience of unscrewing main
bearing.
Note: The flat screwdriver must be
used carefully to avoid
damage to crankshaft or
cylinder block. As there is no
hole on front main bearing
(No. 1) journal, it is not
allowed to use tool to replace
bearing.
10). While removing main bearings, mark
their positions and number. Use awl
to mark position of bearing in locating
tab.
Note: The position mark of bearing
is used for subsequent
identification or potential fault
analysis.

11). Connect sling to lifting jack, and

remove crankshaft.
12). Remove upper main bearing.

13). Use awl to mark position of bearing
in locating tab.
Note: The position mark of bearing
is used for subsequent
identification or potential fault
analysis.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean
1). Clean main bearing with steam or hot
suds.

3). Clean crankshaft and gear with

steam or hot suds.
4). Use non-metal hard brush to clean
engine oil hole. And blow it dry with
compressed air. Make sure that
scraps are blown off from threaded
holes and oil passages at both ends
of crankshaft.
2. Check crankshaft
1). Check whether threads at both ends
of crankshaft are damaged.
Note: If threads are damaged,
crankshaft must be replaced.
Do not repair thread on
crankshaft, otherwise, engine
will be seriously damaged.
2). Check the front crankshaft gear.

3). For engine with rear gear train, check
the rear gear of crankshaft. Check
the gear for cavitation, erosion or
missing teeth. Rear gear of
crankshaft cannot be replaced.
Note: If the worn area cannot be
removed with abrasive pad or
the equivalent, the crankshaft
must be replaced.
4). Check whether the main bearing

journal and connecting rod journal
are damage or excessive worn.
Subtle scratch is acceptable.

5). Measure crankshaft main bearing

journal and connecting rod journal.
Wear limit out of roundness: 0.050
mm
Wear limit taper: 0.013 mm
Note: If crankshaft journal does not
conform to the technical
specification, the crankshaft
must be repolished. Even if only
one journal does not conform to
the specification, it is necessary
to polish all the journals.
6). Measure and record diameter of
connecting rod journal on crankshaft.
Standard diameter 69.013~69.962 mm
crankshaft hole after bearing is fitted.
8). Calculate clearance between
connecting rod bearing and
crankshaft journal.
Note: Bearing clearance equals to
diameter of connecting rod
crankshaft hole diameter (with
bearing) minus diameter of
crankshaft connecting rod
journal.
Standard clearance 0.04~0.12 mm
main bearing journal on crankshaft.
3. Check main bearing bolt

1). For every removed bolt of main
bearing, measure the length from the
bottom of its head to its tip with one
of the methods shown in the figure.
Standard size Min. 120.00 mm

4. Check thrust distance

1). Check whether the surface of thrust
bearing is damaged or excessively
worn. Subtle scratch is acceptable.
Use fine abrasive cloth to polish the
surface.
2). Measure thrust distance.
Note: If bearing clearance does not
specification, use oversized
thrust bearing. 0.25~0.50 mm
oversized thrust bearing is
available.
3). If crankshaft will not be used

immediately, apply a thick layer of
preservation oil. Cover the
crankshaft in case dirt adheres to oil.
5. Check main bearing cover

1). Check whether the main bearing
cover, bolts and thrust bearing are
seriously scratched or overheated.
2). Replace all the damaged
components.
Note: If main bearing cover is
damaged, cylinder block must
be replaced.
3). Check main bearing cover. Make

sure that annular locating pin has
been fitted.

6. Check main bearing

1). Check the bearing for cavitation,
peeling, corrosion, damage and
scratch etc.
2). Check the seating surface of bearing

bush for drawing stamps or burrs.
Note: If drawing stamps or burrs
cannot be removed with
abrasive pad or the
equivalent, the bearing must
be replaced.
3). Use outside dial indicator with ball

joint to measure thickness of main
bush.
Size for main bearing, mm
Standard 2.456~2.464
0.25 mm oversize 2.706~2.714
0.50 mm oversize 2.956~2.964
0.75 mm oversize 3.206~3.214
1.00 mm oversize 3.456~3.464

Note: If bush thickness is smaller

than the minimum value in
technical specification,
discard this bush. If bearing is
replaced, determine the size
of the removed main bearing,
and apply a set of bearings of
the same size. The main
bearing can be identified by
part number and size
imprinted on the back.
Refitting
1. Fit upper bearing
1). Apply fitting lubricant to upper main

bearing bush.
Note: Crankshaft thrust bearing

must be fitted to engine 4#
cylinder – 4# main bearing.
Upper and lower main bushes
are not interchangeable.
Correct positioning direction
is marked on the back of main
bearing.

2). Fit upper main bearing.

3). First of all, insert the side of main
bearing opposite to locating tab
between crankshaft journal and
cylinder block. Fit bearing with hands
as far as possible.
4). Push crankshaft to front or back of

cylinder block while fitting thrust
bearing.
5). Make sure that bearing locating tab

is aligned with locating tab on saddle
of main bearing cylinder block.
2. Fit crankshaft assembly

1). Apply a layer of fitting lubricant to
crankshaft side of main bearing and
surface of thrust bearing.
2). Check the main bearing cover, and
make sure that annular locating pin is
fitted well.

3). Fit crankshaft.

Note: Make sure that crankshaft
front gear engages with oil
pump gear (if not removed)
while putting crankshaft into
cylinder block.
4). Make sure that back of bearing is
clean and free from scraps. Fit lower
main bearing bush to main bearing
cover.
3. Fit main bearing cover
1). Apply a layer of fitting lubricant to
crankshaft side of main bearing and
surface of thrust bearing.
2). Make sure that surface between
main bearing cover and cylinder
block is clean and free from scraps.
3). Fit main bearing cover.
Note: Number on the bearing cover
must be consistent with that
on bearing saddle inside
cylinder block in the course of
installation. Striking plate on
main bearing saddle and
bearing cover must be on the
same side.

thread of main bearing bolt and
bottom of bolt head.
5). Use plastic or rubber hammer to tap
main bearing cover in place. After it
is placed well, fit main bearing bolt
and tighten it.
Note: Do not tighten the bolt to final
torque value. Apply the final
torque after all main bearing
covers are fitted well.
6). Tighten the bolts in order. Repeat the
above steps to all bolts before going
to the next step.
Note: Steps to tighten new bolt and
the used main bearing bolt are
not the same. The wrong
torque may lead to serious
damage to the engine.
7). Used main bearing bolt


8). New main bearing bolt
Tightening torque Step 2 loosen
bolt completely
9). Crankshaft should rotate freely after

main bearing cover is fitted.
See “Replacement of cylinder block
reinforcement plate”





assembly”





assembly”


II. Replacement of piston connecting rod

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Wrench, socket and pliers
Special tools Piston ring mounting tool
Testing tools Torque wrench(10~100 N·m), dial indicator and feeler gauge
Removal
2. Remove engine assembly


See “Transmission assembly service”
262 Replacement of piston connecting rod





Replacement of piston connecting rod 263


assembly”
9. Remove rear gear chamber assembly

See “Replacement of rear gear chamber
assembly”

assembly
11. Remove oil sump housing

See “Replacement of oil sump housing”

12. Remove piston connecting rod

assembly
1). Rotate crankshaft until piston is lower
than carbon deposit area in piston
ring stroke.
2). Use fine fiber abrasive pad/the
equivalent and solvent to clean
carbon deposit.
3). Mark every piston according to

position of cylinder.
Note: Do not mark on the anodic
coating or outer edge if the
piston has anodic coating. Do
not mark on aluminum piston
crown above line of piston
pin.
4). Rotate crankshaft until connecting

rod cover is lower than bottom dead
center for the convenience of
removal.
5). Mark every connecting rod and its
cover according to the position of
cylinder number.
6). Unscrew bolts of connecting rod

cover.
Note: Do not screw off bolts from
connecting rod. Use plastic
hammer to knock bolt of
connecting rod to loosen
connecting rod cover.

Note: Certain engine has outer Torx

gear (E-12).
7). Remove connecting rod bolts

8). Remove connecting rod cover.
9). Remove connecting rod lower
bearing.
10). Mark cylinder number and letter “L”
(LOWER) on locating tab of bearing.
11). Push connecting rod and piston

assembly out of cylinder bore.
Note: Do not damage connecting
rod or bearing.
12). Remove connecting rod upper

bearing.
13). Mark cylinder number and letter “U”
(UPPER) on locating tab of bearing.

Note: If these components are to be

reused, piston and connecting
rod assembly must be fitted to
the cylinder from positions
where they were removed.
Make sure that the worn
junction surface fits well.
14). Use label to mark cylinder number
for the removed piston and
connecting rod assembly.
15). Put connecting rod and piston
assembly into container for fear of
damage.
13. Remove piston pin

1). Remove locating snap rings on both
ends of piston by snap ring pliers
with inward opening.
Note: Do not heat piston.
14. Remove piston ring

1). Remove piston ring with piston ring
expander (Part No.: No.3823137).
2). Fasten the label to piston ring, and
record the corresponding cylinder
number on the label.
Clean
1. Clean piston
1). Usually, carbon deposit can peel
after piston has been soaked for a
whole night. Afterward, use mixture
of high concentration solvent and hot
water to clean piston.
Note: Do not use piston ring groove
cleaning device. And make
sure not to scratch sealing
surface of piston ring inside
piston ring groove.

2). Use broken piston ring cut to clean

residues in piston ring groove.
3). Clean piston with cleanser or solvent

again.
4). Rinse piston with clean hot water,
and blow it dry with compressed air.
5). Cooling oil passage is cast inside

piston skirt. Make sure that oil
passage is clean and free from
scraps while cleaning piston.
2. Clean connecting rod

1). Use solvent and nylon hair brush to
clean contact surface of connecting
rod and its cover. Use compressed
air to blow the surface dry.
Note: Only when contact surface of
connecting rod and its cover
is cleaned, can connecting
rod and its cover be
assembled with bolts. Tighten
bolts with hands to avoid
damage to mating surface.

3. Clean connecting rod cover and

connecting rod bearing
1). Clean bearing and connecting rod
cover, and blow them dry with
compressed air.
Check
1. Check piston
1). Check whether piston skirt, pin hole,
crown and piston ring groove are
damaged or worn.
2). Check whether piston pin is
damaged or worn.
Note: It is important to record the
illustration related to
inspection of piston fault in
early stage. Accumulated
damages make it hard to
distinguish root cause for the
fault and greatly affect the
severity. Therefore, the
illustration only provides
guidance for identification.
3). Measure diameter of piston skirt from

the position being 21.4 mm (A) from
bottom of piston.
4). Diameter of oversized piston skirt.

5). Measure clearance of piston ring.

Use new piston ring gauge to
measure clearance of piston ring
groove.
Clearance between piston rings (mm)
Intermediate ring 0.040~0.110
Oil control ring 0.040~0.085
Note: For this piston ring, it is

unnecessary to measure
clearance at its top. Ordinary
feeler gauge cannot measure
the clearance accurately.
6). Measure hole of piston pin.

7). Measure diameter of piston pin.

2. Check connecting rod

1). Check connecting rod cover,
connecting rod bearing saddle and
bolt for drawing stamps, crack, burr,
scratch or wear.

2). Check the contact surface of

connecting rod and its cover.
Note: Contact surface between
is not machined surface. The
surface is not considered as
damaged unless there are
deep drawing stamps or
cracks.
3). Check whether connecting rod piston

pin hole is damaged.
Note: It is unnecessary to align hole
on connecting rod small end
with that on bushing. Hole on
bushing is only used during
manufacturing.
4). Measure inner diameter of

connecting rod piston pin bushing.
5). Use clean 15W-40 engine oil to

lubricate bolts of connecting rod.
6). Assemble connecting rod,
connecting rod cover and bolts.
7). Tighten the bolts.
Note: Use brass calipers to fasten
connecting rod. Notch,
scratch or pit on I-beam will
result in engine fault. Number
on connecting rod must be
consistent with that on
connecting rod cover.
Connecting rod and its cover
are made as an assembly, and
thus are not interchangeable.
Otherwise, engine will be
damaged.

8). Measure inner diameter at parting

line in 90° (bearing is removed)
Note: If measurement for
connecting rod crankshaft
hole does not conform to
connecting rod must be
replaced.
9). Check the diameter of standard

connecting rod crankshaft hole
(bearing is fitted) as mentioned
above.
10). Check the diameter of oversized

connecting rod crankshaft hole
(bearing is fitted).
Diameter of oversized connecting rod

crankshaft hole (bearing is fitted), mm
0.25 mm 68.80~68.85
0.50 mm 68.55~68.60
0.75 mm 68.30~68.35
1.00 mm 68.05~68.10
3. Check connecting rod cover and

bearing
1). Check the connecting rod cover,

connecting rod bearing saddle and
bolt for drawing stamp, crack, burr,
scratch or wear.

2). Replace the bearing with cavitation,

peeling, corrosion, damage or
scratch.
3). Check the seating surface of bearing

bush for drawing stamps or burrs.
4). If the drawing stamps or burrs cannot
be removed with abrasive pad or the
equivalent, the bearing must be
replaced.
Note: If bearing is damaged, the
whole set must be replaced.
5). Use outside dial indicator with ball

joint to measure thickness of
connecting rod bush.
Size for connecting rod bearing, mm
Standard 1.955~1.968
0.25 mm 2.080~2.093
0.50 mm 2.205~2.218
0.75 mm 2.330~2.343
1.00 mm 2.455~2.468
Note: If bush thickness is smaller

than the minimum value in
discard the bush.
6). Identify connecting rod bearing by
part number and size imprinted on
the back. Determine the specification
for the removed bearing, and use a
set of bearings of the same
specification.
7). Use the connecting rod bearing
oversized for servicing and the
undersized crankshaft. See relevant
parts list.

Refitting
1. Assemble piston connecting rod
assembly
1). Apply a thin layer of clean 15W-40
engine oil inside hole on connecting
rod piston pin and piston pin.
2). Fit new locating snap ring inside hole
on piston pin.
3). Align piston pin hole on connecting

rod with piston pin hole on piston, fit
piston pin and fit the second locating
snap ring.
Note: Locating snap ring must be
seated inside hole of piston
pin completely in case that
engine gets damaged in
running.
2. Fit piston ring

1). Fit piston ring to piston.
Note: The upper surface of top and

intermediate piston rings can
be identified with word “TOP”
or manufacture’s marking,
such as a dot. The word
“TOP” or manufacture’s
marking should be upward
during assembling.
2). Fit expansion ring of oil control ring to
ring groove where the control ring is
located.

Note: Every surface of bottom oil

control ring can be upward.
3). Place the oil control ring with its
opening staggered with opening of
expansion ring by 180°.
Note: For two-piece oil control ring,
opening of its expansion ring
should be staggered with
opening of oil control ring by
180°.
4). Fit intermediate piston ring.
5). Fit top piston ring.
3. Fit piston connecting rod assembly

1). Before assembling, keep cylinder
block and all components clean, and
check the wall of cylinder block.
2). Use a piece of clean and lint-free
cloth to clean connecting rod and
bush.
3). If new bearing is not used, the used
one must be fitted to the position on
connecting rod where it was
removed.
4). Make sure that back and side of
connecting rod and its bearing are
clean and free from scraps. Do not
lubricate back and side of connecting
rod bearing.
5). Fit upper bush to connecting rod.
6). Bush locating tab must be inside
connecting rod locating groove. End
face of bush must be flush with
mounting surface of connecting rod
cover.
Note: For angle split connecting
rod, upper and lower bushes
are not interchangeable. If
connecting rod bush is
removed for some reason, a
new bushing must be used.

7). Apply fitting lubricant or the

equivalent to inner diameter of bush.
8). Apply a thin layer of clean 15W-40 oil
to wall of cylinder block.
9). Use clean oil to lubricate piston ring

and piston skirt.
10). Rotate and adjust opening of piston

ring.
Note: Do not align opening of every
piston ring with that of piston
pin or other piston rings. If
opening of piston ring is in
wrong position, piston ring
cannot be sealed rightly.
11). Use piston ring compressor to

compress piston ring.

12). Rotate crankshaft to make the

journal for which connecting rod is to
be fitted located at lower dead
center.
Note: Follow this step, otherwise,
engine will be seriously
damaged. Piston and
connecting rod assembly
must be fitted in right
positions.
13). Align with mark “Front” and/or arrow

on piston crown so that the piston
points to front of engine. Insert
connecting rod to cylinder bore until
piston ring compressor contacts top
of cylinder block.
14). Long end of connecting rod (1) and
notch on piston skirt (2) will be on
exhaust side of engine.
Note: If not, check that piston is
fitted on connecting rod
correctly.
15). Prop cylinder block with piston ring

compressor.
16). Thread piston through piston ring
compressor, and push it into cylinder
bore.
17). Push piston until its top ring enters
cylinder bore completely.
Note: If piston cannot move freely,
remove piston and check
whether piston ring is
fractured or damaged.
18). Carefully push piston into cylinder

bore, and guide connecting rod to
crankshaft journal.
Note: If new bearing is not used, the
used one must be fitted to
connecting rod cover where it
was removed.

19). Fit bearing to connecting rod cover.

20). Bearing (2) locating tab must be
inside locating groove of connecting
rod cover (1).
21). Use fitting lubricant or the equivalent
to lubricate inner diameter of bush.
22). Use clean l5W-40 oil to lubricate
thread of connecting rod bolt, as well
as bottom of connecting rod bolt
head.
Note: Do not damage the broken
section of connecting rod or
its cover while removing
connecting rod cover. If the
section is damaged,
must be replaced to reduce
the possibility of damaging
engine.
23). Fit connecting rod cover and bolt.
24). Tighten connecting rod bolts

alternatively with torque plus angle
method.
Tightening torque Step 2 rotate
clockwise for 60°
25). Measure lateral clearance between
connecting rod body and crankshaft.
Do not measure lateral clearance
between connecting rod cover and
crankshaft.

4. Measure projection of piston on

combustion surface of cylinder block
Note: Perform this step only after
piston, crankshaft, connecting
rod or cylinder block are
replaced.
1). Use depth gauge assembly to
measure projection of piston.
2). Fit micrometer to mating surface of
cylinder head and reset it.
3). Move micrometer above piston pin to

eliminate all lateral movement. Do
not put contact of micrometer on
anodic coating.
4). Rotate crankshaft to top dead center.

Rotate crankshaft clockwise and
anti-clockwise to search for the
maximum reading of micrometer.
Record the result.
Note: If projection of piston does

specification, check whether
right component is fitted or
combustion surface of
cylinder block is machined
correctly.
5). Check whether connecting rod cover
can rotate freely during installation.
6). If crankshaft cannot rotate freely,
check the fitting condition and size of
connecting rod bearing.




assembly”

assembly”





assembly”




III. Replacement of piston cooling nozzle

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Special tools
Testing tools Torque wrench
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, oil and hair brush

Removal
2. Drain engine oil
3. Remove oil sump

Replacement of piston cooling nozzle 283



plate
6. Remove piston nozzle

1). Rotate crankshaft to different
positions so that it can contact every
piston cooling nozzle.
2). Remove piston cooling nozzle.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean piston cooling nozzle
1). Use solvent to clean J piston cooling
nozzle and oil passage inside
cylinder block, and use compressed
air to blow it dry.
2. Check piston cooling nozzle
1). Check whether bolts and J piston
cooling nozzle are damaged.
284 Replacement of piston cooling nozzle

Refitting
1. Fit piston cooling nozzle
Note: Even if piston cooling nozzle

is bent slightly, the engine can
be damaged seriously. If bent
or damaged during
disassembling or assembling,
the nozzle must be replaced.
1). Rotate crankshaft to required
position for service, and fit piston
cooling nozzle.
2). Use long socket to drive extension,
and fit bolt and/or piston cooling
nozzle in place.
Note: Align it in place. The locating
pin of J piston cooling nozzle
must engage with locating
hole inside cylinder block.
Standard size J-bolt 15 N·m


Replacement of piston cooling nozzle 285

4. Fit oil sump and its gasket

5. Fill engine oil

7. Run the engine and check for
leakage and proper oil pressure.
8. Fit high pressure pipe of injector to

fuel rail
See “Replacement of high pressure pipe”
Note: Do not overtighten feed pipe
joint, otherwise, the joint may
rotate out of its fixed slot.

286 Replacement of piston cooling nozzle

Starting and charging system

I. General
(i) Introduction to starting and charging system
Starter helps start the engine. It can convert electrical energy of battery to mechanical energy and
drive engine flywheel to rotate, thus starting the engine. DC motor imports current from battery and
enables the drive gear of starter to move mechanically; drive mechanism engages drive gear into
flywheel ring gear, and meanwhile disengages it automatically after the engine starts;
Drive the generator rotor by running the diesel engine, generate electricity in the principle of
Electromagnetic Induction, and store the electricity into battery for electrical appliances in the
vehicle.
(ii) Technical parameter
S/N Item Parameter
1 Rated voltage of generator (V) 28
2 Rated current of generator (A) 70
3 Rated voltage of starter (V) 24
4 Rated power of starter (KW) 6.6
5 Voltage of single battery (V) 12
(iii) Maintenance precautions

1. All connections on generator must be firm and reliable, without looseness or false
connection.
2. After motor is fitted well, rotate it gently with hands and check whether it rotates
smoothly without noise.
3. It is not allowed to check whether generator generates electricity by short-circuiting the
ground of armature pole while generator is running; otherwise, the generator and wire
harness may be burnt.
4. Adjust belt to appropriate tension. Too loose belt is easy to slip and cause generation of
little electricity; too tense belt is easy to damage itself or motor bearing.
5. While removing starter, remove wire on battery at first.
Note: Take out ring, bracelet and other jewelries while removing starter, to eliminate
the possibility of electric shock.
General 287
II. Replacement of generator assembly
Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Socket S10/S13/S15/S16/S18 and male square wrench
Testing tools Torque wrench(10~100 N·m)

Removal

3. Remove generator assembly

1). Disconnect generator wire harness.
2). Remove lower bolts from generator
connecting rod.
3). Remove mounting bolts and nuts
from bottom and mounting bracket of
generator.
4). Remove generator.
288 Replacement of generator assembly

4. Remove pedestal-mounting generator

1). Remove mounting bolts of generator.
5. Remove hinge-mounting generator

1). Remove bolts of generator
connecting rod.
2). Remove mounting bolts of generator.
6. Remove spool-mounting generator

1). Remove mounting bolts from
generator bracket.
2). Remove generator bracket.
Note: For some applications, lower
bracket and water inlet of
generator are assembled to
the same bracket.
3). Remove lower mounting bolts from

generator bracket.
4). Remove generator bracket.
Replacement of generator assembly 289

Check
1. Check generator assembly
1). Check whether magnetic line of
generator is damaged.
Refitting
1. Fit spool-mounting generator

1). Fit generator and mounting bolts and
nuts on its bottom.
2). Fit mounting bolts of upper
connecting rod to the top of
generator.
3). Tighten lower mounting bolts.
4). Tighten mounting bolts of upper
connecting rod.
2. Fit pedestal-mounting generator

1). Fit generator.
2). Fit and tighten mounting bolts.
Tightening torque M10 bolt 36 N·m
Tightening torque M12 bolt 64 N·m
3. Fit hinge-mounting generator

1). Fit generator.
2). Fit and tighten mounting bolts of
generator.
4. Connect wire harness of generator.
290 Replacement of generator assembly

Replacement of generator assembly 291

III. Replacement of starter assembly

Tools and auxiliary

Name and model
materials
Common tools Wrench S10/S13/S16 and wrench S15/S21

Removal
2. Disconnect wire harness of starter

1). Remove 3 bolts and the starter.
Note: If spacer ring is fitted, remove
it and use wire brush to clean
all surfaces between starter,
starter space ring and
flywheel housing.
Check
1. Check starter assembly
1). Use inside dial indicator or vernier
calipers to measure distance
between starter mounting flange and
front end face in front flywheel gear
ring.
2). If necessary, add or remove cushion
block until starter spacing is
appropriate.
292 Replacement of starter assembly

Refitting
1). For engine equipped with wet
flywheel housing, apply sealant to
mounting flange of flywheel starter
for the width of 1.5-2.0 mm.
Note: If starter cushion block is
required, make sure that
sealant is applied to the side
where cushion block contacts
the starter.
2). Fit 3 bolts, the starter and the starter

cushion block (if applied).
2. Connect starter wire harness
Replacement of starter assembly 293

Lubricating system
I. Overview
(i) Lubricating system overview
Lubricating oil
Recommendation of Dongfeng Cummins is to
use SAE15W-40 quality heavy-duty oil
conforming to performance classification of
American Petroleum Institute (API).
Engine oil operation under Arctic conditions

Note: If the ambient temperature is
less than －5℃ (as shown in
the diagram), using
low-viscosity oil appropriately
(for example, 10W-30) will help
the engine start and provide
sufficient oil flow. However,
using low-viscosity oil
frequently will reduce the
engine life.
When performing diagnosis of oil system

failures, check all items significantly related to
oil pressure, such as oil pressure gauge, oil
level, excessive oil contamination, oil viscosity
etc.
294 Overview
Oil pump
The use of internal gear lubricating oil pump is
similar to other engines of the same series. Oil
pump is in the front of engine and is driven by
front crankshaft gear. In view of oil pump
having design similarity to those of the same
engine series, always verify the correctness of
the exchange part before fitting, and please
refer to appropriate information resources
regarding to parts to ensure that.
Oil cooler
The adopted full flow plate oil cooler is similar
to those of the same engine series. Oil cooler
is in cylinder block chamber of engine exhaust
side, located between lubricating oil cooler
cover and cylinder block. Oil flows through oil
cooler plate where it is cooled down by engine
coolant.
In view of oil cooler having similarity to those

of the same engine series, always verify the
correctness of the exchange part before
fitting.
The main difference of various oil coolers is in
the number of plates. According to engine
configuration, the engine may require more
(B) or less (A) plates to cool the engine oil
sufficiently.
Improper use of components may cause too
high or too low temperature, and paint film and
oil sludge will occur in oil system.
Oil filter
Full-flow oil filter is used for engine oil
filtration. Oil filter is on engine exhaust side
toward the front. For some engines, remote oil
filter options may be adopted, and oil filter is
fitted onto the vehicle instead of the engine.
Dongfeng Cummins recommends that oil filter
should be pre-filled after replacement to avoid
oil pressure delay when starting.
Overview 295
Note: Debris is prohibited from

entering into the filter along
with oil. If use supply pipe
with metal or plastic seals
under the cover, push back
the seals carefully. Pushing
seals with a knife or sharp
item may cause debris
occurring in oil filter.
Oil pressure regulator

Oil pressure regulator is used to avoid too
high lubricating oil pressure. And it is in oil
cooler cover of engine exhaust side. It
consists of a cover, spring and plunger.
In view of such oil pressure regulator having
design similarity to those of the same engine
series, verify the correctness of the exchange
part before fitting.
Oil by-pass valve

Oil by-pass valve is pressed into oil cooler
cover. If the pressure drop of two sides of the
filter is high enough, the by-pass valve will
open. This allows the unfiltered oil to flow into
engine oil system continuously.
Oil sump
Depending on application, front oil sump (1),
rear oil sump (2) or intermediate oil sump (3)
can be chosen. Fitting of oil suction pipe
varies with the type of the chosen oil sump.
296 Overview
Engine oil heater

For some engine oil sumps, an optional oil
heater can be fitted to help the engine run
under cold conditions.
Oil suction pipe

Oil suction pipe is a molding steel pipe with a
cast iron on cylinder block. Punch the part of
pipe immersed in the oil to prevent large
debris into oil system. Fitting of oil suction pipe
varies with the type of the chosen oil sump.
Oil dipstick
Oil dipstick used to check the engine oil level
varies with the engine type.
If the dipstick is of a locking type, it will be
unlocked when turning the handle
counter-clockwise, and locked when
clockwise.
For some engines, an optional oil level sensor
is also equipped to remind the operator of too
low oil level.
Oil pressure switch

Oil pressure switch (1) is used for monitoring
the oil pressure. If the oil pressure is less than
the default value, a fault will be recorded in
Electronic Control Module (ECM), and alarm
lamp on instrument panel will be on to remind
the driver that the engine has problems.
Oil pressure switch will be fitted in either of the
following positions depending on engine
application types:
1. Fit it into front gear chamber cover (as
shown in the diagram)
2. Fit it into main oil duct of engine air inlet
side (not shown)
Overview 297
(ii) Oil flow description

Oil pump
Engine uses an internal gear oil pump. The oil enters into suction pipe through the engine and then
flows into internal gear oil pump. Then the pressurized oil flows into oil cooler cover, reaching
pressure regulating valve.
Pressure regulating valve
Pressure regulating valve is designed to keep oil pressure not more than 449KPa. If the supply
pressure of oil pump exceeds 449KPa, this valve opens, and the oil drain port is opened to allow
part of the oil to flow back into the oil sump. The possibly maximum oil pressure difference of
engines may be 69KPa because of the manufacturing tolerances of components and oil ducts.
By-pass valve
Oil flows into oil filter by-pass valve continuously through oil cooler. If the pressure passing through
the filter exceeds 345KPa, oil by-pass valve will open.
Oil filter
The oil from oil cooler passes through full-flow oil filter where it flows into main oil duct of cylinder
block.
Turbocharger oil
Variable geometry turbocharger is the first component to receive the filtered, cooled and pressurized
oil from oil filter head via a supply pipe. Return pipe connected to the bottom of the turbocharger
housing allows the oil to flow back to oil sump via a pipe joint in the cylinder block.
Lubrication of powertrain components
J-shaped piston cooling nozzle duct
The oil from full-flow oil filter enters into J-shaped piston cooling nozzle duct, which can supply oil to
J-shaped piston cooling nozzle. Liquid fog from the nozzle is injected to the lower part of piston,
entering into piston internal duct, and this is the way of cooling.
Main oil duct
The oil from oil filter enters into main oil duct through the oil duct between Cylinder 1 and Cylinder 2.
Main bearing, overhead components and accessory drive are all lubricated by the pressurized oil
from the main oil duct. Other power components, connecting rod, piston and camshaft receive
pressure oil directly from the main oil duct.
The oil duct in crankshaft supplies oil to the connecting rod bearing. The oil is supplied to camshaft
journal through main bearing saddle.
Supply oil to the overhead components via the independent oil duct in cylinder block. The oil flows
through the oil duct and passes through oil groove of cylinder head gasket.
Lubrication of overhead components
The oil duct of cylinder block extends into cylinder head and is interlinked to the oil duct of rocker
arm shaft bracket, and the internal oil duct of shaft bracket supplies oil to rocker arm shaft, push rod
hole and jumper pressure plate gasket.
Camshaft and tappet is lubricated by the residual oil in overhead mechanism.
Lubrication of accessory drive (only for rear gear system lubrication)
The oil from main oil duct is supplied to the oil duct of rear gear chamber, and then the oil is supplied
to accessory drive. And the return oil from accessory drive flows back to oil sump through rear gear
chamber.
298 Overview
Lubricating system flowchart
1. Oil pump 8. Filter by-pass valve

2. From oil pump 9. Filter by-pass valve is closed
3. Pressure regulating valve is closed 10. Filter by-pass valve is open
4. Pressure regulating valve is open 11. To oil filter
5. To oil cooler 12. Full-flow oil filter
6. To oil sump 13. From oil filter
7. Oil cooler 14. Main oil duct
Lubrication of turbocharger
1. Turbocharger oil supply 2. Turbocharger oil drain
Overview 299
Lubrication of powertrain components
1. From oil cooler 6. To camshaft

2. Main oil duct 7. Crankshaft main journal
3. To valve train system 8. To supply pipe of connecting rod bearing
4. From main oil duct 9. Directional piston cooling nozzle
5. To piston cooling nozzle 10. To internal lubrication of air compressor
Lubrication of overhead components
1. Main oil duct 4. Rocker arm shaft

2. Rocker arm bracket 5. Rocker arm hole
3. Oil groove 6. Rocker arm.
300 Overview
Lubrication of accessory drive
1. Oil supply to accessory drive

2. Oil supply from cylinder block
Overview 301
(iii) Lubricating system technical specifications
Item Metric
Low idle speed (allowable minimum value) 69kPa

Oil pressure
Rated speed (allowable minimum value) 207kPa
Oil regulating valve opening pressure range 448-517kPa
Pressure difference of oil filter for by-pass pipe opening 345kPa
Oil sump only 11L

Standard engine oil capacity
Entire system 13L
(four-cylinder) 4.5L engine
(suspension oil sump)
Between high and low oil level marks (on
1.9L
oil dipstick)
Oil sump only 13L

Entire system 15L
(four-cylinder) 4.5L engine
(aluminum oil sump)
3.0L
oil dipstick)
Oil sump only 16L

Entire system 18L
(four-cylinder) 4.5L engine (oil
sump with high-capacity)
6.0L
oil dipstick)
Oil sump only 14.2L

(six-cylinder) 6.7L engine Between high and low oil level marks (on
1.9L
oil dipstick)
Maximum oil temperature (for 4.5L& 6.7L engines) 138℃
302 Overview
II. Service & replacement of oil pressure regulator (main oil duct)
Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Common tools Wrench
Testing tools Torque wrench (10-100N·m)
Auxiliary materials Cloth, sealant

Removal
1. Disconnect battery
2. Cleaning
1). Clean the periphery of pressure
regulator plug thoroughly with
cleaning agent to prevent the debris
entering plunger hole when removing
the plug.
3. Remove oil pressure regulator

1). Remove pressure regulator, valve
plug, spring and plunger.
Note: When removing plunger, in
general, put one finger into
plug hole and when feeling it’s
tight, pull it out. If the plunger
can not be removed in this
way, it may be stuck, and the
housing needs to be removed.
Service & replacement of oil pressure regulator (main oil duct) 303
Cleaning and check

1. Clean all components
1). Clean all components completely
with cleaning agent.
2). Dry these parts with compressed air.
Note: If the plunger hole needs to be
cleaned, remove the housing,
thus the debris can not enter
into the engine.
2. Check oil pressure regulator

1). Check the plunger hole. The polished
area on plunger and plunger hole is
allowed.
2). Verify that the plunger can move

freely in the hole. If not, remove oil
filter head and check it.
304 Service & replacement of oil pressure regulator (main oil duct)
Refitting
Note: In view of design similarities
of oil pressure components,
always verify the correctness
of the exchange part before
fitting.
1. Fit oil pressure regulator

1). Fit new O-ring to screw plug and use
the clean oil for lubricating. Fit
pressure regulating plunger, spring
and screw plug.
2). Tighten screw plug.
Tightening torque 80N·m
2. Connect battery
3. Run the engine to check for leakage
Service & replacement of oil pressure regulator (main oil duct) 305
III. Replacement of oil pump

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Common tools Wrench, socket, slotted screwdriver
Testing tools Dial indicator, micrometer, torque wrench (10-100N·m)
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil, hair brush, sealant

Removal

Refer to “Replacement of drive belt”
3. Remove shock absorber

Refer to “Replacement of shock
absorber”
306 Replacement of oil pump

4. Remove front gear chamber cover

Refer to “Replacement of front gear
chamber cover”
5. Initial check
1). Measure lubricating oil pump drive
gear backlash with a gauge and
magnetic base.
Standard size 0.170-0.300mm
Note: If the adjacent gear moves
when measuring, the reading
will be incorrect. If the
backlash does not comply
with technical specifications,
oil pump must be replaced.
2). Remove 4 mounting bolts (1, 2, 3

and 4).
3). Remove oil pump from the hole of
cylinder block.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean oil pump
1). Clean oil pump with solvent.
2). Dry with compressed air.
Note: Prevent solvent entering into
oil system. The solvent may
reduce the lubricating oil ability to
prevent component wear.
3). After removing the pump, clean
cylinder block chamber with solvent.
Replacement of oil pump 307

2. Check oil pump

1). Check oil pump gear for falling,
cracks, or excessive wear.
2). If the debris may enter into oil pump,

remove rear cover plate to check for
internal damage.
Note: Oil pump is serviced /
replaced as an assembly. No
internal parts are reusable
when refitting/replacing.
3). Check rear cover plate for scratches

or notches. If there are scratches or
serious notches, the oil pump must
be replaced.
4). Check oil pump housing and internal

gear oil pump drive gear for damage
and excessive wear. And oil pump
must be replaced if damage occurs.

5). Measure the top clearance.

Inclining limit Minimum
0.178mm
6). Measure the clearance between

internal gear oil pump drive
gear/planetary gear and valve plate.
Standard size Minimum
0.127mm
7). Measure gear backlash.

Refitting
1. Fit oil pump
1). Fill oil pump with clean 15W-40 oil.
Note: If the pump is not filled
with oil when fitting, this
may cause the slow
pre-filling for the engine
initial staring, thus
causing serious damage
to the engine.

Note: In order to reduce the

possibility of engine damage,
ensure that idler pin is fitted in
the locating hole of cylinder
block.
2). Fit oil pump. In view of design
similarities of lubricating oil pumps,
always verify the correctness of the
exchange part before fitting.
3). Tighten bolts according to the

following shown steps and orders:
Tightening torque Step 1: 8N·m
Tightening torque Step 2:
24N·m
4). If the new oil pump is fitted, ensure

that the gear backlash is correct.
Note: Backplate of the pump is
toward the bottom of cylinder
bore in cylinder block. When
oil pump is fitted properly, the
pump flange will not contact
the cylinder block.
5). Measure lubricating oil pump drive

gear backlash with a gauge and
magnetic base.
will be incorrect. If the old
pump is to be fitted and the
backlash has been measured,
there’s no need to complete
this step.

6). Measure oil pump idler gear

backlash with a gauge and magnetic
base.
is incorrect. If the old pump is
to be fitted and the backlash
has been measured, there’s
no need to complete this step.
2. Fit front gear chamber cover

Refer to “Replacement of gear chamber
cover”
3. Fit shock absorber

Refer to “Replacement of shock
absorber”
4. Fit belt
Refer to “Replacement of drive belt”

5. Connect battery

IV. Replacement of oil suction pipe (fitted on cylinder block)

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Common tools Wrench, socket
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil, sealant, hair brush, soapy water

Removal
2. Drain oil
3. Remove oil sump

Refer to “Replacement of oil sump”
Replacement of oil suction pipe (fitted on cylinder block) 313


1). Remove mounting bolt of oil suction
pipe.
2). Remove oil suction pipe.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean oil suction pipe.
1). Clean the gasket surface with a putty
knife.
2). Clean the oil suction pipe surface
with hot soapy water.
2. Check oil suction pipe

1). Check oil suction pipe for cracks.
Refitting
1). Fit oil suction pipe gasket and oil
suction pipe, and ensure that the
opening of oil suction pipe gasket is
aligned with the housing.
Note: Oil suction pipe gasket is
asymmetric. Incorrect fitting
will cause too low oil pressure
and engine damage.
2). Fit and tighten mounting bolt of oil
suction pipe.
314 Replacement of oil suction pipe (fitted on cylinder block)

2. Fit oil sump

Refer to “Replacement of oil sump”
3. Fill the engine with oil
4. Connect battery
6. Check oil level

1). Stop the engine, and check oil level
with oil dipstick
Replacement of oil suction pipe (fitted on cylinder block) 315

V. Replacement of oil filling pipe

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Common tools
Testing tools ——

Removal
2. Clean the periphery of filling pipe
1). In order to reduce the possibility of

the debris entering oil system, clean
the periphery of lubricating oil filling
pipe before removal.
3. Remove ECM and ECM mounting plate
4. Remove oil filling pipe

1). If equipped, remove all supporting
members, clamps and mounting
bolts of oil filling pipe.
2). Remove oil filling pipe.
316 Replacement of oil filling pipe

Cleaning and check

1. Clean and check oil filling pipe
1). Clean the gasket surface.
2). Clean oil filling pipe and the removed

components with solvent, and then
dry them with compressed air.
3). Check oil pipe, supporting members
and clamps for cracks, and replace
the damaged parts.
Refitting
1. Fit oil filling pipe
1). Fit oil filling pipe, and use new seals.
2). If equipped, fit supporting members,
clamps and mounting bolts of
lubricating oil filling pipe.
Note: Tighten all fasteners.
2. If ECM and ECM mounting plate have
been removed already, fit them again.
3. Connect battery
Replacement of oil filling pipe 317

VI. Replacement of oil pipe

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil, plastic basin, sealant

Removal
2. Remove oil pipe
1). Mark oil pipe before removal, and

these marks contribute to proper
fitting.
2). Disconnect oil pipe of oil filter head
adapter.
3). Disconnect oil pipe of
remotely-mounted oil filter head.
Check
1. Check oil pipe
1). Check hose and O-ring sealing
surface for damage.
318 Replacement of oil pipe

Fitting
Note: When fitting oil pipes, ensure

that there is no contact or
friction among oil pipes or
between them and any other
engine parts.
1. Fit oil pipe

1). Position oil pipe with the marks in the
removal steps. Fit oil filter pipe to oil
filter head adapter, and tighten it with
hands.
2). If no marks, supply pipes are
external connections and return
pipes are internal connections.
3). Tighten oil pipe of oil filter head
adapter.
Note: If no marks, mark inlet (IN)
and outlet (OUT) for
remotely-mounted oil filter
head.
4). Tighten oil pipe of remotely-installed
oil filter head
2. Connect battery
Replacement of oil pipe 319

VII. Replacement of oil & oil filter (rotary-mounted)

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Common tools
Special tools Filter wrench
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil, plastic basin

Removal
2. Drain the engine oil
3. Clean the periphery of oil filter head

1). Clean the periphery of oil filter head
320 Replacement of oil & oil filter (rotary-mounted)

4. Remove oil filter

1). Remove oil filter with oil filter wrench.
2). Clean the sealing surface of oil filter
head.
3). Oil filter seal ring may stick onto oil
filter head. Ensure that the seal ring
has been removed.
Fitting
1. Fit oil filter
1). Apply the oil onto oil filter gasket
surface with clean 15W-40 oil.
2). Fill the filter with clean 15W-40 oil.
Note: Before oil filter is filled with oil
when starting, if the filter has
no oil, the engine may be
damaged because of no
lubrication.
3). Fit the filter onto the filter head. And

tighten the filter until that the gasket
contacts the filter head surface.
4). After the gasket contacting the filter
head, tighten for 3/4 to 1 circle.
Note: Excessive filter tightening
may cause thread deformation
or damage of the filter element
seals.
2. Add the engine oil

Replacement of oil & oil filter (rotary-mounted) 321

4. Check the engine oil level

1). Stop the engine, and check oil level
again.
322 Replacement of oil & oil filter (rotary-mounted)

VIII. Replacement of oil filter head adapter

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil, plastic basin, sealant

Removal
2. Preparations for removal
1). Clean the periphery of oil cooler cover.
2). Stick marks here, and remove oil

pipe of oil filter head adapter.
Note: When removing oil pipe,
the surface gasket may
fall off. Be careful not to
damage or lose the
gasket.
3. Remove oil filter head adapter

1). Mark on oil cooler housing and oil
filter head adapter so that the
adapter can be calibrated when
fitting.
2). Remove the adapter by removing the
central hose joint.
Replacement of oil filter head adapter 323

Cleaning and check

1. Clean and check oil cooler
1). Clean parts with solvent.
3). Check the sealing surface for

leakage or burrs, and use the fine
emery cloth to remove burrs.
Fitting
1. Fit oil filter head adapter
1). Fit a new O-ring into the groove under
filter head cover.
2). Fit a new O-ring into the groove on
the other side of filter head cover.
3). Lubricate O-ring with clean 15W-40
engine oil.
4). Fit a new O-ring into the groove of

the central hose joint.
324 Replacement of oil filter head adapter

5). Lubricate O-ring with clean 15W-40

engine oil. Fit external hose joint to
oil filter head adapter so that it can
be connected to the rear engine and
align with the marks stuck before
removal.
6). Push and press the intermediate joint
so that it can pass through the
adapter, and install the filter head
adapter to the engine.
7). Tighten the intermediate joint, and
align it with the marks stuck before
removal.
2. Connect battery
Replacement of oil filter head adapter 325

IX. Replacement of oil cooler

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Auxiliary materials Oil, cloth, hair brush, sealant

Removal
1. Disconnect battery cable
2. Drain the coolant
3. Clean the periphery of oil cooler cover
4. Remove oil filter

Refer to “Replacement of oil filter”
5. Disconnect supply pipe of
turbocharger
326 Replacement of oil cooler

6. Remove oil cooler

1). Remove oil cooler cover bolt,
housing, gasket and oil cooler core.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean & check oil cooler
1). Clean oil cooler housing and cover
with solvent.
Note: If the debris or engine
faults caused by the
debris occur, replace oil
cooler.
2). Clean the sealing surface.

3). When cleaning oil cooler cover, oil
by-pass valve must be cleaned.
4). If the debris may enter into the

engine or oil pressure problems
occur, remove oil pressure regulator
in oil cooler cover and check it.
Replace it if necessary.
Replacement of oil cooler 327

5). Check oil filter by-pass valve.

6). If the debris may enter into the
engine, check oil filter by-pass valve
in oil cooler cover. Ensure that the
valve is fully seated and can be
opened and closed freely. Replace it
if necessary. By-pass valve can be
opened at 345kPa pressure.
2. Leak test
1). Perform pressure test for filter

element with oil cooler pressure test
components to check for leakage.
Note: Replace oil cooler if leakage
occurs.
Standard pressure 449-518kpa
Fitting
1. Fit oil cooler
1). Ensure that plug of cooler core is
removed.
2). Assemble oil cooler cover, bolts,

gasket and oil cooler.
3). If the oil filter of the used engine oil
cooler cover is fitted lowly, comply
with the tightening sequence as
shown in the diagram.
Note: Fasten bolts 6 and 8, and
tighten them in the shown
sequence.

4). Tighten in the sequence as shown in

the diagram.
2. Connect supply pipe of turbocharger
3. Fit oil filter

Refer to “Replacement of oil filter”

5. Add the coolant
6. Connect battery
Replacement of oil cooler 329

8. Check the oil level

1). Stop the engine, and check the
levels of coolant and oil.

X. Replacement of engine oil heater

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Testing tools Torque wrench, multimeter
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil, foot basin, sealant

Preparation steps
1. Disconnect battery cable
2. Drain the oil
3. Remove oil heater

1). Disconnect oil heater wire.
2). Remove heater core.
Replacement of engine oil heater 331

Cleaning and check

1. Initial check
1). Wipe the heater core with clean dry
towel.
2). Check the heater core for cracks.
2. Test
1). Perform resistance test for the
engine oil heater core.
Standard values 91-101Ω
Fitting
1. Fit the heater core
1). Fit the heater into oil sump.
2). Connect oil heater wire.
332 Replacement of engine oil heater


1). Fill the engine with clean oil until that
the correct oil level is achieved.
3. Connect battery cable

Replacement of engine oil heater 333

XI. Calibration of oil dipstick

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Common tools
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil
1. Drain the oil
2. Calibration
1). Fit oil dipstick to dipstick tube shell.
2). Fill oil sump with clean oil until that
the specified “low” level is achieved.
334 Calibration of oil dipstick

3). Take out the dipstick, and make a notch

at the position of the dipstick level. And
mark the letter “L” at the notch to indicate
the low oil level.
Note: Be careful to mark the oil dipstick,
or too deep notch will break the
dipstick.
4). If a new unmarked dipstick is used, cut off
the part about 38mm below the low level
marking.
5). Wipe the dipstick cleanly and fit it to the

dipstick tube shell.
6). Fill oil sump with clean oil until that the
specified “high” level is achieved.
7). Take out the dipstick, and make a notch

at the position of the dipstick level. And
mark the letter “H” at the notch to indicate
the high oil level.
Calibration of oil dipstick 335

XII. Replacement of oil dipstick tube

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials

Removal
2. Remove ECM and ECM mounting plate
3. Remove oil dipstick tube

1). If the dipstick is locked, turn the
handle counter-clockwise to unlock it
and then pull it out upward.
Note: Before removal, clean the

periphery of the dipstick tube
to prevent debris entering into
lubricating oil system
336 Replacement of oil dipstick tube

2). Take out the dipstick from oil dipstick

tube.
3). Remove all brackets and clamps of
the dipstick tube (if equipped).
4). Remove the flexible part of the
dipstick tube (if equipped).
5). If the pressed-in dipstick tube ring

carrier is used for the dipstick, use
groove puller and M8×1.25×2mm
self-tapping bolt. And screw the bolt
onto the dipstick tube, and then
remove the dipstick tube.
6). In the case that oil sump is removed,
so use a suitable punch to remove
the dipstick tube ring carrier.
7). If O-ring dipstick tube ring carrier is

used for the dipstick.
8). Remove the bolts fixed ring carrier to
cylinder block. And remove ring
carrier from cylinder block.
9). Remove O-ring from dipstick tube
ring carrier and discard it.
10). The flexible part of the dipstick tube
should be fitted and fixed with clamp
(if equipped).
11). If flexible pipe is to be used, soak the
nylon pipe end in hot water so that
easier fitting can be achieved.
12). All brackets and clamps of the

dipstick tube should be fitted (if
equipped).
13). Fit oil dipstick to the dipstick tube.
Replacement of oil dipstick tube 337

14). If a locking dipstick is fitted, check if

O-ring is fitted to the handle. Insert
the dipstick into the dipstick tube,
and align pin of the tube with the
handle and then push downward,
and turn the handle clockwise to lock
it.
15). Calibrate the dipstick as required.
4. Fit ECM and ECM mounting plate if
required.
5. Connect battery
338 Replacement of oil dipstick tube

XIII. Replacement of oil sump

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Auxiliary materials Oil, cloth, hair brush, sealant

Preparation steps
2. Drain the oil
3. Remove oil heater

Refer to “Replacement of oil heater”
Replacement of oil sump 339

4. Remove suspension oil sump

Note: Suspension oil sump consists
of oil sump, mounting flange
and flexible gasket.
1). Remove oil sump mounting bolts, oil
sump, mounting flange and flexible
gasket.
5. Remove standard oil sump

Note: Standard oil sump consists of
oil sump and a mounting
gasket.
1). Remove oil sump mounting bolts, oil
sump and mounting gasket.
2). If crowbar or screwdriver is used to
remove the molded gasket, oil sump
flange may be damaged. Use blade
of multi-purpose tool knife or putty
knife to cut the seal and release oil
sump.
6. Remove oil sump with molded gasket

1). Oil sump with molded gasket
consists of oil sump and suitable
RTV sealant. Preformed gasket is
not used between oil sump and
cylinder block.
2). If crowbar or screwdriver is used to
remove the molded gasket, oil sump
flange may be damaged. Use blade
of multi-purpose tool knife or putty
knife to cut the seal and release oil
sump.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean and check oil sump
1). Clean the gasket surface.
2). Remove all gaskets from cylinder
block and oil sump sealing surface.
3). Steam clean oil sump. Dry oil sump
340 Replacement of oil sump

4). Check oil sump supporting flange,

gasket, suction pipe and pipe bracket
for damage.
5). For suspension oil sump, check
mounting flange for damage.
Note: If cracks occur, replace the
damaged components. Do not
try to repair oil sump by
welding.
6). For suspension oil sump, check the

flexible mounting gasket for cracks,
brittleness or others, and replace the
gasket if damage occurs.
Fitting
1. Fit oil sump
1). Fit suction pipe again if it has been
removed.
2). Apply a 2mm layer of sealant onto oil

sump mounting surfaces at junction
of cylinder block and front gear cover
and junction of cylinder block and
rear gear housing.

2. Fit oil sump with molded gasket

1). Before applying sealant and fitting oil
sump, verify that oil sump mounting
surface is clean without residual oil.
2). Clean the sealing surface with
solvent.
3). Apply a 4mm layer of sealant onto oil

sump mounting surface of cylinder
block as shown in the diagram.
4). Ensure connectivity of sealed
passage.
Note: Fit oil sump within 10 minutes
after applying the sealant, or
the sealant will have improper
sealing effect. Once fitting is
completed, dry the sealant for
30 minutes, and then run the
engine.
5). Remove the residual bolt heads to

use them as guide pins. Screw the
pins into cylinder block before fitting
oil sump. This contributes to the
calibration of holes in oil sump and in
cylinder block. After fitting several
bolts, remove the guide pins.
Note: After the oil sump is seated

and before finishing fitting of
several bolts, a proper
pressure must be kept in the
oil sump. After the oil sump is
in position, do not pull up its
opening, or air will enter and
be sealed inside the sealant,
causing the leakage in future.
6). Fit oil sump and bolts. Tighten oil
sump bolts in the sequence as
shown in the diagram.

7). Tighten oil sump bolts as shown in

the diagram.
8). For 6-cylinder engine with molded
gasket, use the following torque
values.
3. Fit standard oil sump

1). For easy gasket fitting, apply a little
sealant onto gasket and oil sump
flange. This can help the fixing
position of the gasket when fitting.
2). Fit oil sump, gasket and oil sump
mounting bolt.
3). Tighten oil sump bolts as shown in

the diagram.
For 6-cylinder engine with standard
oil sump.
4. Fit suspension oil sump

1). Fit oil sump mounting bolts, oil sump,
mounting flange and flexible gasket.

2). Tighten oil sump mounting bolts as

shown in the diagram. For 4-cylinder
engine with suspension oil sump, the
following torque values apply.
3). Tighten oil sump mounting bolts as

shown in the diagram. For 6-cylinder
engine with suspension oil sump, the
following torque values apply.
4). Clean and check the thread and

sealing surface of drain plug. Fit the
new gasket if damage occurs.
5). Fit and tighten oil sump drain plug.
Tightening torque
Steel oil sump：
M18 plug 60N·m
M22 plug 80N·m
Cast aluminum oil sump：
M22 plug 60N·m
5. Fill the engine oil

6. Connect battery

Fuel system
I. Overview
(i) Fuel system overview
Warning: Fuel is inflammable. When operating fuel system, keep cigarettes, open flames,
indicators, arc equipment and switches away from the working area, and
ventilation equipment should be equipped there to reduce the possibility of
serious injury or even death.
The fuel system is high pressure common rail

electronic control fuel system. The high
pressure common rail system consists of
three main components:
 High pressure fuel pump
 Fuel rail
 Injector
Regardless of the engine speed, high
pressure pump supplies high pressure fuel to
fuel rail. Continuous high pressure fuel flows
from the fuel rail to injector. Electronic Control
Module (ECM) controls oil supply and timing
of the engine by driving solenoid valve in each
injector.
For fuel system components, cleaning is very

important because of difference in error
accuracy of different components. Ensure that
the following items are completed:
1). Clean all pipe joints, pipes and
components of fuel system before
dismantling
2). Ensure that no dirt or debris enters into
fuel system components to prevent
contaminants entering into high pressure
fuel rail and injector
3). Do not pre-fill the pressured side of fuel
filter unless one plug is used on the clean
side of the filter.
Note: Even a little dirt and debris can
cause fuel system component
faults.
346 Overview
High pressure fuel pump

High pressure fuel pump is driven by
crankshaft gear.
High pressure fuel pump consists of three
main components:
 Gear pump – used for increasing fuel
pressure before the fuel enters high
pressure part of fuel pump. It can not
be repaired.
 Fuel pump actuator – used for
controlling the fuel pressure
generated by fuel pump. It can be
repaired.
 Pump chambers – generate high
pressure via three radial pump
plungers.
Fuel pump actuator

Fuel pump actuator is located at the
entrance of three radial pump oil
chambers of high pressure fuel pump,
and it adjusts the fuel amount flowing into
pump chamber. And it is controlled by
PWM signal from ECM to keep a
satisfactory pressure in fuel rail.
Pressure of high pressure fuel pump is
controlled by adjusting the fuel amount
flowing into pump chamber.
Fuel feed pump

Manual injection pump is used for filling
fuel system only.
Gear pump fitted onto high pressure fuel
pump is used for pumping fuel in fuel
supply tank.
For information about removal and
refitting, please refer to the relevant
sections.
Overview 347
Fuel heater
Fuel heater (ring type) is integrated into

remotely-mounted injection pump, and
fitted onto the top of fuel filter.
Note: Do not exceed the maximum
measurement capability of
pressure gauge or flow meter.
Otherwise, incorrect readings
will occur. If the maximum
value is exceeded, preform
check according to reference
pressure table.
(ii) Description of fuel flow

Oil supply device, fuel filter & high pressure fuel pump
Gear pump fitted onto high pressure fuel pump can pump fuel from fuel supply tank via fuel-water
separator on fuel suction side fitted on the engine or outside of chassis. The gear pump fitted onto
high pressure fuel pump increases the fuel pressure to about 303.3-1,303.1KPa. The fuel pumped
from the gear pump will be guided to the fuel filter on the pressure side fitted on the engine or
outside of chassis, and the fuel flows from the fuel filter on the pressure side into high pressure fuel
pump. Then the boost pressure of the fuel after passing through three radial pump chambers is
250-1,600bar.
Fuel pump actuator
Fuel pump actuator at the entrance of three radial pump chambers on high pressure fuel pump
adjusts the fuel amount flowing into the pump chambers. And it is controlled by PWM signal from
ECM to keep a satisfactory pressure in fuel rail. Pressure of high pressure fuel pump is controlled by
adjusting the fuel amount flowing into pump chambers.
Laminated relief valve
The fuel not allowed to flow into three radial pump chambers will pass through the laminated relief
valve directly. The laminated relief valve guides part of the pressurized fuel into the fuel duct of high
pressure fuel pump. And then the fuel flows into return pipe joint which can make the fuel back to
the supply tank.
Fuel rail, fuel pressure sensor & fuel relief valve
The high pressure fuel flows from high pressure fuel pump into fuel rail through a fuel rail supply
pipe. The fuel rail functions as the fuel manifold and can collect fuel and distribute the fuel in each
injector supply pipe. The fuel rail has a fuel rail pressure sensor to monitor the pressure of fuel rail
supplied by high pressure fuel pump. ECM adjusts the fuel amount of high pressure fuel pump
according to the measured pressure of fuel rail pressure sensor, and the fuel rail also includes a fuel
rail pressure relief valve which is a safety valve used for releasing the excessive pressure when the
rail pressure exceeds a default threshold value. The fuel flowing from the fuel rail pressure relief
348 Overview
valve will flow into the return pipe joint which can make the fuel back to the supply tank.
Injector supply pipe, fuel joint & injector
The high pressure fuel flows from injector supply pipe into the injector directly through a fuel joint.
Each injector is fitted with solenoid valve which can control when the injector should be supplied
with fuel according to ECM commands. The excessive fuel of the injector is guided into an internal
fuel duct of cylinder head, and a pressure regulating pipe joint of the rear cylinder head connects the
fuel return pipe and the cylinder head to keep a certain pressure in the fuel duct of cylinder head.
The fuel return pipe in the rear cylinder head guides the fuel into the fuel return joint which can make
the fuel back to the supply tank.
Fuel system flowchart 1
1. To injector 7. Fuel filter head

2. Fuel rail 8. Fuel filter
3. Fuel flows from injector and rail back to filter head 9. To rail
4. Fuel return connecting pipe 10. High pressure joint
5. Fuel inlet connecting pipe 11. Injector
6. Fuel filter supply pipe (from gear pump)
Overview 349
(iii) Overview of injector & fuel pipes

Fuel rail & fuel rail supply pipes (high pressure)
Fuel return pipe contains the high pressure

fuel from fuel pump. Fuel rail components
include the following items:
• Fuel pressure relief valve
• Return pipe of fuel pressure relief
valve
• High pressure supply pipe joint of
fuel pump
• Mounting bracket
• Supply pipe joint of fuel pressure
injector
• Fuel pressure sensor
High pressure fuel pump and fuel rail is
connected via fuel rail supply pipe (not
shown).
Fuel pressure relief valve

Fuel pressure relief valve is a tube-designed
component in the front rail. The valve can be
seated again in case that fuel rail high
pressure lower valve is open when the rail
pressure returns to be acceptable.
Injector supply pipes (high pressure)

Injector supply pipe is connected to fuel rail
and fuel joint of each cylinder. The injector
supply pipe has no need of any separator or
external supporting.
350 Overview
Fuel joint
Note: To avoid the engine damage,
the torque of high pressure
pipe nut must be correct.
The high pressure fuel flows from fuel rail into
injector through the injector supply pipe and
fuel joint. When tightening the fuel joint nut,
the fuel joint is pressing the injector body.
Then the injector supply pipe is connected to
the fuel joint. The torques of the fuel joint and
injector supply pipe are very important.
If the joint nut or injector supply pipe is

tightened, the surface will not be sealed and
the high pressure fuel leakage may occur. If
the joint nut is tightened excessively, the fuel
joint and the injector will be deformed and the
high pressure fuel leakage may occur. The
leakage occurs inside of cylinder head and will
not be observed. Thus fault codes, fault codes
of low power, low power or difficult starting
may occur.
Fuel joint includes an edge filter used for

crushing small contaminants in fuel system.
The edge filter crushes all the particles by
pulse high pressure, and thus the size of
particles is small enough for passing through
the injector.
Note: When repairing, equipped with the edge
filter does not mean that all the fuel joints need
not to be cleaned or covered. It also does not
mean that the recommended fuel filter fitted
on the engine needs not to be reserved.
Injector
High pressure common rail fuel system drives
the injector by solenoid valve. The high
pressure fuel flows into the injection side.
When the solenoid valve is activated, the
internal needle valve will be lifted up and the
fuel will be injected.
Electronic Control Module (ECM) controls oil
supply and timing of the engine by the injector
solenoid valve. Electronic pulse is sent to the
solenoid valve for lifting the needle valve and
starting to inject. By controlling the injector
electronically, the injection amount and timing
can be controlled more accurately. Multi-point
injection can be performed by controlling the
injector electronically.
Overview 351
Nozzle hole clearance is very small, and thus

the injector can be stuck by any dirt or
contaminants. This is the importance of
cleaning the whole fuel joint periphery before
repairing fuel system. Before repairing fuel
system, the open fuel joint should also be
covered or shielded.
Injector gasket is of flat-type (1) and dish-type

(2). When replacing the injector gasket, only
the dish-type gasket can be used, rather than
the flat one.
All injectors fill common rail fuel return pipe of

cylinder head with fuel. All excessive fuel can
flow back to oil tank through the oil duct of this
cylinder head. Back pressure valve is at the
position where the back of cylinder head
connected to return pipe.
Some connections of supply pipes and return

pipes use quick-break pipe joints.
Press locking dogs on both sides of
quick-break joint, and remove quick-break fuel
pipe.
For easy removal, insert the screwdriver
between the fuel pipe end and quick-break
external positive joint. After pressing down
locking plates on both sides, turn the slotted
end of the screwdriver to remove the fuel pipe.
Push the quick-break joint toward the positive
joint until that it is stuck, and thus this is the
method of fitting the quick-break fuel pipe.
352 Overview
Some connections of supply pipes and return

pipes use the traditional hollow-type pipe
joints.
All return pipes are fixed to a fuel common rail

return pipe joint, which is the position
connected to fuel return pipe for the fuel
flowing back to fuel supply tank.
A common step relevant to fuel system fault
diagnosis is used to measure the fuel return
amount of different fuel systems:
• Injector fuel return amount
• Fuel return amount of fuel pressure
relief valve
• Fuel return amount of high pressure
fuel pump
Fuel filter
Dual filter system is required:
Fuel filter on the pressure side is used for
filtering, and is supplied power by gear pump
of engine fuel pump.
Note: Fuel filter on the pressure side is also
fitted onto the chassis in some cases.
Fuel filter on suction side is a filer and water
separator fitted onto the engine fuel pump. It is
located between gear pump and fuel supply
tank. This filter has no pressure and works
under vacuum.
(iv) Technical specification
Item Metric Imperial
Maximum fuel inlet resistance – only when gear pump is used (no
50.7kPa 7.3psi
electric fuel feed pump fitted onto the engine), (at gear inlet)
Rail pressure - 4.5L & 6.7L 250-1,600bar 3,626-23,206psi
Fuel pressure range of fuel filter inlet and outlet (when the engine
is dragging) - only when gear pump is used (no electric fuel feed 303-1,103kPa 44-160psi
pump)
Overview 353
Fuel pressure range of fuel filter inlet and outlet (when the engine
is running) - only when gear pump is used (no electric fuel feed 503-1,303kPa 73-189psi
pump)
Maximum pressure drop of fuel filter on both sides - only when

200kPa 29psi
gear pump is used (no electric fuel feed pump)
Maximum resistance of fuel return pipe 19kPa 2.7psi
Maximum oil inlet temperature 70℃ 158°F
(v) Fuel system function

The function of the fuel system is to inject the measured clean atomized fuel into the engine
cylinders punctually when each piston is near the end of compression stroke. The function of the
system components is to convey fuel to the cylinders.
354 Overview
II. Fuel system exhaust
Tools & auxiliary materials Name & type
Special tools
Testing tools
Auxiliary materials Cloth, fuel, oil basin, sealant

1. Manual exhaust
1). Unlock the handle of manual injection pump.
2). Press the handle of injection pump until that you can feel the resistance and the handle
can not be pressed any more.
Warning: Do not perform fuel system exhaust on the hot engine, or the fuel will be
splashed onto the hot exhaust manifold and thus fire hazard may occur.
3). Lock the handle of manual injection pump.
4). Disconnect 4-pin power joint from

Electronic Control Module (ECM) to
prevent the engine starting.
5). Drag the engine. If the engine can
not be started within 30s, turn off the
key switch
6). Pump the injection pump again to
start the engine.
Note: The engine may run unstably
after starting, and the noise
level increases, and this is
regarded to be normal.
7). Run the engine to check for leakage
Fuel system exhaust 355

III. Replacement of fuel pump

Tools & auxiliary materials Name & type
Special tools Fuel pump removal tool
Testing tools Torque wrench (10-100N·m), air gun
Auxiliary materials Cloth, fuel, oil basin, sealant

Removal
1. Measure fuel injection amount of fuel pump
1). If the engine can not be started,

disconnect high pressure fuel outlet
pipe from high pressure injection
pump.
2). Disconnect fuel pump actuator joint.
3). Insert a part of the pipe into outlet
pipe joint of fuel pump, and connect it
into a 500ml measuring cup.
4). Drag the engine, and measure the
fuel amount flowing from fuel pump.
Note: Do not start the engine again
within 30s. Start the engine at
intervals of 10 seconds, and
30s between two startings,
and the possibility of starter
overheating may be reduced.
Note: Minimum fuel flow: (150rpm)
70ml within 30s upon the
engine starting.
5). If high pressure injection pump does

not meet the flow technical
specifications, check air in the fuel,
inlet resistance and fuel filter.
6). If these checks are all passed,
replace fuel pump actuator.
7). After replacing fuel pump actuator,
measure fuel pump flow again. If the
flow does not meet the technical
specifications, replace fuel pump.
8). Connect fuel pump actuator electrical
joint, and clear all faults with service
software.
356 Replacement of fuel pump

9). If the engine can be started, measure

to diagnose high pressure fuel pump
faults. The following steps are
methods of testing fuel return flow of
high pressure fuel pump.
10). Ensure that the engine is at
operating temperature before testing.
11). Before collecting flow data, run the

engine for 1 minute after fitting the
check pipe.
Warning: The fuel may flow back at

high temperature. When
performing this test,
safety goggles, protective
gloves and working
clothes must be worn. To
reduce the possibility of
personal injury, avoid
contact with the fuel
return.
2. Separate fuel return flow of injector

and fuel pump
1). To prevent fuel return flow of high
pressure fuel pump entering into that
of the injectors, remove fuel return
pipe quick-break pipe joint of
injection pump firstly.
2). Fit negative quick-break oil return
hose to the return joint of fuel pump.
Fit a quick-break blocking pipe joint
to the disconnected oil return pipe.
3). Put the negative quick-break hose
into the measuring cup.
Replacement of fuel pump 357

3. Separate fuel return flow of injector

and fuel pump (for engines with rear
gear chamber low-mounted fuel return
manifolds)
1). To prevent fuel return flow of high

pressure fuel pump entering into that
of the injectors, remove fuel return
pipe quick-break joint of fuel return
manifold firstly.
2). Fit the quick-break blocking pipe joint
to fuel return pipe to prevent the fuel
flowing into fuel return manifold.
3). Insert fuel return hose with positive

quick-break pipe joint into fuel return
pipe removed from injection pump.
4). Insert fuel return hose into the barrel
or graduated cylinder to measure the
fuel return flow of the injector.
5). Fit fuel return pipe with negative
quick-break pipe joint to high
pressure fuel pump.
6). Insert fuel return pipe into the
graduated cylinder to measure the
fuel return flow of the injector.
4. Check injection pump flow

1). Record the time to fill 500ml
measuring cup, and measure the
flow according to the records.
Note: Maximum flow (750rpm) under
the standard idling condition:
500ml within 30s. If high
pressure injection pump does
not meet the flow technical
specifications, check air in the
fuel and inlet resistance. If no
problem is found after all
these checks, the pump is
faulty and replaces it.

6. Remove fuel pump

1). Disconnect and remove low pressure
fuel supply pipe and return pipe.
2). For the engine with low-mounted fuel
filter, fuel filter head must be
removed so that fuel pump can be
removed.
3). Apply a reverse torque onto the high
pressure pump joint of open end
wrench to avoid the joint looseness
or leakage.
Note: When removing fuel pump,
fuel rail supply pipe should
not be bent, curled or tangled.
4). Disconnect and remove the high
pressure supply pipe between fuel
pump and fuel rail (flare joint).
5). Disconnect electrical joint of fuel
pump actuator.
6). Remove fuel pump mounting nut with

3 flanges.
7). Remove fuel pump from gear
chamber housing.
7. Dismantle injection pump

1). Fix fuel pump drive gear with fuel
pump fixing tool and l/2 inch crowbar.
2). Turn mounting nut of fuel pump drive
gear counterclockwise on propeller
shaft to release the tightening load.
Note: Do not remove the mounting
nut from the shaft.

3). Fit bearing separator or the

equivalent tool between fuel pump
mounting flange and drive gear.
4). Fix bearing separator.
5). Fit hinge puller or the equivalent tool

onto bearing separator and fuel
pump drive shaft.
6). Screw the puller screw until that drive
gear is separated from drive shaft.
7). Remove drive gear mounting nut,
lockwasher and drive gear from fuel
pump propeller shaft.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean and check fuel pump
1). Clean fuel pump with solvent.
3). Check propeller shaft and drive gear

for damage.
Note: Replace if damage occurs.
4). Check O-ring for damage. Replace if
damage occurs.
5). Check O-ring area for damage.
6). Clean and repair any surface with
burrs.

7). Check gear chamber, high pressure

pump mounting hole and mounting
stud for cracks.
8). Check propeller shaft for damage.

components.
Fitting
1. Assemble injection pump
1). Fit the new seal ring in front of fuel
pump assembly.
Note: Ensure that the seal ring is
free from deformation.
2). Lubricate the seal ring and gear

chamber mounting hole with clean
15W-40 oil.
3). Fuel pump propeller shaft end and
drive gear shaft fitting surface must
be cleaned and dried before
assembling.
4). Wipe propeller shaft and gear with
solvent and a piece of lint-free cloth
Note: Do not touch the fitting
surface after wiping.

5). Fit drive gear onto propeller shaft.

6). Fit drive shaft lockwasher and
mounting nut, and tighten it with
hands.
7). Fix drive gear in position with fuel

pump gear fixing tool and l/2 inch
crowbar, and tighten drive gear
mounting nut meanwhile.
2. Fit injection pump

1). Fit the new seal ring in front of fuel
pump assembly.
2). Ensure that the seal ring is free from
deformation. Lubricate the seal ring
and gear chamber mounting hole
with clean 15W-40 oil.
3). Fit fuel pump to gear chamber.

4). When the rear injection pump gear is
aligned with the injection pump shaft,
put injection pump on the mounting
flange of gear chamber.
5). Engine barring gear is used for
aligning the gear.
6). After the pump is laid at level on the
mounting flange, install 3 mounting
nuts of pump, and tighten them with
hands only.

Note: Do not try the final tightening.

Do not try to tighten (pull out)
the mounting nut fixing the
pump and gear chamber, or
the pump or gear chamber will
be damaged.
7). Before trying to tighten 3 mounting
nuts, the pump must be laid at level
on the mounting flange.
8). Tighten fuel pump mounting
fastener.
9). Fit injection pump pipe.
3. Fit fuel filter head assembly

Refer to “Replacement of fuel filter
assembly”
4. Connect electrical joint of fuel pump
actuator
5. Connect battery

IV. Replacement of fuel feed pump

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Testing tools Torque wrench, multimeter
Auxiliary materials Cloth

Check
1. Board check
1). Check fuel supply pipe between fuel

tank and fuel filter housing for
damage.
2). Check pressure drop of fuel filter on
both ends.
2. Measurement
Note: The purpose is to check the
flow property of injection
pump.
1). Disconnect fuel supply pipe from
injection pump fuel filter head outlet.
2). Connect fuel drain hose to outlet joint
of injection pump fuel filter head.
3). Insert one end of the hose into the
measuring cup.
Note: After fitting the testing pipe,
ensure that fuel pipe is free
from tangles or leakage.
364 Replacement of fuel feed pump

4). This test should be performed when

the engine is not running. Before
collecting information, ensure that air
in the testing pipe is discharged
completely and the fuel is flowing
continuously.
5). When pumping the injection knob,
ensure that the shaft has no leakage.
6). Unlock injection pump knob and pull
it out. And pump the injection pump
knob for several times to discharge
air from the pipe. If the pipe has the
flowing fuel, pump the injection pump
for 10 times.
7). A pumping stroke is equivalent to pull

the knob out and push it back for one
time.
8). Injection pump fuel flow of pumping
the injection knob for 10 times.
Standard size more than 137mm.
9). If no problem is found, injection
pump has faults. And the injection
pump needs to be replaced.
Replacement of fuel feed pump 365

V. Service of engine fuel electric heater

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Testing tools multimeter
Auxiliary materials Cloth

Removal
1. Board test
1). Disconnect the joint of fuel heater.
2). Check if the voltage of fuel heater

joint is correct.
Note: Fuel heater voltage: 12VDC
366 Service of engine fuel electric heater

3). Measure resistance between two

joint contact pins of fuel heater joint.
Note: If the temperature is more
than the required, use the
voltage range needed by
thermostat, and the joint
contact pin pressure will be 0.
Ice needs to be placed around
the fuel heater so that the
temperature is below the
thermostat activation point. If
the resistance exceeds the
range, fuel heater assembly
should be replaced.
4). Clean fuel heater and its periphery
with steam. Dry with compressed air.
5). Disconnect electrical joint.
3. Remove fuel filter

Refer to “Replacement of fuel filter”
4. Remove fuel heater

1). Remove fuel filter dowel pin from
filter head.
2). Remove fuel heater.
Note: The heater should be able to
be pulled out from filter head.
When removing the heater,
ensure that the heater seal
ring is not at the bottom of
fuel filter.
Service of engine fuel electric heater 367

Cleaning and check

1. Clean and check fuel heater
1). Check O-ring for damage.

Note: Replace the damaged O-ring.
2). Check fuel heater for broken

terminals or other damage.
Note: Replace fuel heater if damage
occurs.
Fitting
1. Fit fuel heater
1). Place fuel heater on the filter head,
and the gasket should be upward.
Prevent contaminants entering into
high pressure fuel pump and injector.
Note: Even a little of dirt and debris
may cause faults of these
components.
2). Apply pipe bolt glue or the
equivalents onto the filter dowel pin.
Note: The bolt glue will enter into
fuel pump after fitting, and
thus do not use excessive bolt
glue.
3). Fit fuel filter pin.
368 Service of engine fuel electric heater

4). Fit fuel heater into filter head, and

tighten the mounting fastener.
2. Fit fuel filter

3. Air discharge of fuel system
Refer to “Air discharge of fuel system”
4. Connect electrical joint
5. Connect battery
Service of engine fuel electric heater 369

VI. Replacement of fuel filter (rotary-mounted)

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Common tools
Testing tools Pressure gauge
Auxiliary materials Oil, oil basin, cloth, hair brush

Removal
1. Check resistance of fuel filter
1). Mark the fuel inlet and outlet of fuel

filter with words or arrows.
2). Fit a M10 positive Compuchek pipe
joint on the diagnostic port of fuel
filter inlet side.
Note: Fuel filter head mounting bolt

may be needed to be loosened
so that the test port
connected to Compuchek
pipe joint can be in the middle
position.
3). Connect fuel pressure gauge to

Compucheck pipe joint
4). Measure the fuel pressure of fuel
filter inlet at low idling
Standard values 283-1,303kpa
measure the fuel pressure of fuel
filter inlet when dragging the engine
6). Record the measured fuel filter inlet
pressure
370 Replacement of fuel filter (rotary-mounted)

7). If the fuel pressure is less than the

minimum value of filter inlet side,
perform the following checks
8). Check if the fuel inlet resistance is
too high.
9). Check if air exists in the fuel.
10). Check gear pump for damage.
11). Fit a M10 positive Compuchek pipe
joint on the diagnostic port of fuel
filter outlet side.
12). Connect fuel pressure gauge to
Compucheck pipe joint.
13). Measure the fuel pressure of fuel

filter outlet at low idling.
measure the fuel pressure of fuel
filter outlet when dragging the engine
15). Record the fuel filter outlet pressure,
and then the previously measured
fuel filter inlet pressure should be
subtracted from this value.
Standard values Minimum 81kpa
Note: If the pressure drop exceeds
the specified value, fuel filter
must be replaced.
3. Clean the periphery of fuel filter
4. Disconnect the wire harness from
water in fuel sensor
Note: The following steps can be
used to replace fuel filters of
pressure side and suction
side.
1). Release and remove fuel filter with
fuel filter wrench.
2). Ensure that the seal ring is not stuck
in filter head.
Note: If necessary, remove O-ring
with O-ring removal tool.
Replacement of fuel filter (rotary-mounted) 371

Fitting
1. Fit fuel filter

Note: Use the correct fuel filter.
1). Lubricate fuel filter O-ring with clean
oil.
2). Fit the filter to filter head.

3). Tighten the filter until that the gasket
contacts the filter surface.
4). Tighten fuel filter again for 3/4 circle.
Note: Over tightening of the filter
may cause the thread
deformation, damage of filter
element gasket or filter tank.
2. Connect water in fuel sensor
1). Connect the wire harness to water in
fuel sensor
3. Connect battery
372 Replacement of fuel filter (rotary-mounted)

VII. Replacement of fuel filter head

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials

Removal
2. Disconnect pipe joints of fuel filter

head supply pipe and return pipe
Refer to “Replacement of supply pipe &
return pipe”

Replacement of fuel filter head 373

4. Remove fuel heater (if equipped)

Refer to “Replacement of fuel heater”
5. Remove high-mounted fuel filter head

1). Remove mounting bracket of fuel
filter head.
2). Remove fuel filter head.
6. Remove low-mounted fuel filter head

1). Fuel filter head and fuel filter head
bracket may be the single plates.
Arrows of “IN” (Inlet) and “OUT”
(Outlet) on the fuel filter head
indicate the fuel flow directions.
Before removal, the fuel filter head
direction must be recorded.
filter head.
7. Remove filter head of injection pump

1). Fuel filter head and fuel filter head
bracket may be the single plates.
Arrows of “IN” (Inlet) and “OUT”
(Outlet) on the fuel filter head
indicate the fuel flow directions.
Before removal, the fuel filter head
direction must be recorded.
filter head.
374 Replacement of fuel filter head

Cleaning and check

1. Clean and check fuel filter head
1). Check fuel filter head for cracks,
passage blockage or debris on the
sealing surface.
Fitting
1. Fit high-mounted fuel filter head
1). Fit fuel filter head.
2). Fit mounting bolts of fuel filter head.
2. Fit low-mounted fuel filter head

Note: Fuel filter head and fuel filter
head bracket may be the single
plates. Arrows of “IN” (Inlet)
and “OUT” (Outlet) on the fuel
filter head indicate the fuel flow
directions. Ensure that the
mounting direction of the fuel
filter head should be the same
with the removal direction.
3. Fit filter head of injection pump
Note: Fuel filter head and fuel filter
head bracket may be the
single plates. Arrows of “IN”
(Inlet) and “OUT” (Outlet) on
the fuel filter head indicate the
fuel flow directions. Ensure
that the mounting direction of
the fuel filter head should be
the same with the removal
direction.
Replacement of fuel filter head 375

4. Connect supply pipe and return pipe

of fuel filter head
Refer to “Replacement of return pipe &
supply pipe”
5. Fit fuel heater

Refer to “Replacement of fuel heater”
6. Connect battery
376 Replacement of fuel filter head

VIII. Replacement of fuel filter head bracket

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil, oil basin, sealant

Removal
2. Disconnect pipe joints of fuel filter

head supply pipe and return pipe
Refer to “Replacement of supply pipe &
return pipe”
3. Remove fuel filter head

Refer to “Replacement of fuel filter head”
Replacement of fuel filter head bracket 377

4. Remove high-mounted fuel filter head

bracket
1). Remove bracket mounting hardware
and bracket of fuel filter head.
5. Remove low-mounted fuel filter head

bracket
and bracket of fuel filter head.

and bracket of injection fuel filter
head (if equipped).
Cleaning and check

1. Clean and check fuel filter head
bracket
1). Clean the removed components with
solvent.
3). Check filter head bracket and fuel
pipe bracket for cracks.
4). If damage occurs, replace the
components.
378 Replacement of fuel filter head bracket

Fitting
1. Fit fuel filter head bracket and
mounting hardware
1). Fit fuel filter head bracket and

mounting hardware
2). Tighten mounting hardware.
2. Fit low-mounted fuel filter head

bracket
1). Fit fuel filter head bracket.
2). Fit mounting bolts of fuel filter head
bracket.
3. Fit high-mounted fuel filter head

bracket
1). Fit fuel pipe bracket.
2). Fit mounting fastener of fuel pipe
bracket and tighten it.
Replacement of fuel filter head bracket 379

4. Fit fuel filter head

Refer to “Replacement of fuel filter head”
5. Connect pipe joints of fuel filter head

supply pipe and return pipe
Refer to “Replacement of fuel return pipe
& supply pipe”
6. Connect battery
380 Replacement of fuel filter head bracket

IX. Replacement of fuel return pipe

Tools & auxiliary Name & type

materials
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil basin

Removal
2. Remove return pipe
1). Mark all P-Clip positions and fuel

return pipe layout, and ensure that
they are placed in the correct
positions when assembling again.
Note: Fuel return pipe should not be
bent, curled or tangled when
removing.
2). Disconnect or remove all the clipped
fixing return pipes.
3). Disconnect the return pipe of fuel

pressure relief valve.
4). Disconnect injector return port of
cylinder head (the rear cylinder
head).
5). Disconnect fuel pump return pipe.
6). Disconnect return pipe of fuel filter
head assembly if required.
7). Disconnect fuel return joint if
required.
8). Remove fuel return pipe.
Replacement of fuel return pipe 381

Cleaning and check

1. Clean and check fuel return pipe
1). Check fuel return pipe for blockage
or the flattened area.
2). Check the joint for cracks, wear or
the squeezed area. Replace fuel pipe
if the damage occurs.
3). Check the sealing surface of hollow

joint surface for damage.
Note: Replace fuel pipe if the
damage occurs.
Fitting
1. Fit fuel return pipe.
1). According to the marked return pipe
layout when removing, connect
return pipes to fuel pressure relief
valve, cylinder head injector return
port, fuel pump, fuel filter head
assembly and fuel return joint.
Note: Fuel return pipe should not be
bent, curled or tangled when
fitting.
Note: Injector return pipe joint of the

rear cylinder has a check
valve to keep a correct
backpressure. The fuel
flowing from the check valve
flows back to the fuel tank.
2). Connect or install the clipped fixing
fuel return pipe.
382 Replacement of fuel return pipe

2. Connect battery
Replacement of fuel return pipe 383

X. Replacement of fuel supply pipe


materials

Removal
2. Remove fuel supply pipe
1). Mark all P-Clip positions and fuel

supply pipe layout, and ensure that
they are placed in the correct
positions when assembling again.
Note: Fuel supply pipe should not
be bent, curled or squeezed
when removing.
2). Remove the fuel supply pipe
connecting gear pump outlet to fuel
filter head inlet of pressure side.
connecting fuel filter head outlet of
pressure side to fuel pump inlet.
Note: Fuel filter can be fitted outside

of the engine remotely. The
fuel pipe layout must be
marked out to ensure the
correct fitting. If the fuel pipe
is fitted incorrectly, fuel
system may be damaged.
384 Replacement of fuel supply pipe

3. Application of remotely-mounted fuel

filter on pressure side
connecting gear pump outlet to fuel
filter head inlet of pressure side.
pressure side to fuel pump inlet.
filter on suction side
suction side to gear pump inlet.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean and check fuel supply pipe
1). Check fuel return pipe for blockage
or the flattened area.
2). Check the joint for cracks, wear or
the squeezed area.
Note: Replace all the damaged fuel
pipes.
3). Check the sealing surface of hollow

joint surface for damage.
Note: Replace all the damaged fuel
pipes.
Fitting
1. Fit fuel supply pipe
1). Fit P-Clip and P-Clip mounting bolt
onto the marked positions as
mentioned during removal.
Note: Fuel supply pipe should not
be bent, curled or tangled
when fitting.
Replacement of fuel supply pipe 385

2). Fit the fuel supply pipe connecting

fuel filter outlet to fuel filter head inlet
of pressure side.
3). Fit supply pipe connecting fuel filter
head outlet to fuel pump inlet.
Note: Ensure that fuel pipe layout is
fitted correctly. If the fuel pipe
is fitted incorrectly, fuel
system may be damaged.

filter on pressure side
gear pump outlet to filter head inlet.
fuel filter head outlet to fuel pump
inlet.
filter on suction side
fuel filter head outlet of suction side
to gear pump inlet.
4. Connect battery
5. If necessary, fill the system with the
fuel.
6. Fuel System Exhaust
Refer to “Fuel system exhaust”
386 Replacement of fuel supply pipe

XI. Service of injector


materials
Testing tools Torque wrench、multimeter
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil basin, sealant, hair brush
Initial check
1. Fuel return of fuel rail pressure relief
valve
1). Clean all the pipe joints before
dismantling. Dirt or impurities may
damage fuel system. If the fuel return
amount of pressure relief valve is
measured to be zero.
2). For engines of fuel rail pressure relief
valve with hollow pipe joint, hollow
pipe joint return hose and blocking
pipe joint should be used to separate
the fuel amount of pressure relief
valve.
3). When separating the fuel return
amount of fuel rail pressure relief
valve from the one of the injector, fuel
amount test components of fuel rail
pressure relief valve are required.
2. Remove hollow bolt of fuel rail

pressure relief valve
1). Fit fuel rail pressure relief valve
return hose onto pressure relief valve
with hollow bolt of test components.
2). Fit the cover of pressure relief valve
test components to the available
hollow parts to cover the pressure
relief valve return pipe
3). Put fuel rail return hose into a
measuring cup
Service of injector 387


valve with quick-break pipe joint,
return hose with negative
quick-break pipe joint and blocking
valve
5). Remove quick-break pipe joint from
pressure relief valve, and install a
pressure gauge adapter onto fuel rail
6). Fit a quick-break blocking pipe joint
into fuel return pipe removed from
fuel pressure relief valve
7). Put fuel return hose into a measuring
cup
3. Check the fuel return amount of
injector and fuel pump
Note: For engines equipped with
high-mounted fuel return
manifold with a hollow pipe
joint, the following steps can
separate the fuel return
amount of injector and fuel
pump.
Note: When measuring the fuel

return amount of injector, fuel
system leak test tool is
required.
1). Remove hollow bolt from fuel pump
return pipe of fuel return manifold,
and install a cover onto hollow bolt to
avoid the fuel returning of return
manifold
2). To avoid the fuel return amount of

high pressure fuel pump entering into
the one of the injector, return pipe
quick-break pipe joint of injection
pump should be removed
3). Fit return hose with negative
quick-break pipe joint onto high
pressure fuel pump, and drain the
fuel into the barrel
4). Insert return hose with positive
quick-break pipe joint into the
removed return pipe. Put one end of
the return hose into graduated
cylinder
388 Service of injector

4. Separate fuel return amount of injector

form the one of fuel pump (engines
with low-mounted fuel return manifold
in rear gear chamber)
1). Remove return pipe quick-break pipe

joint from fuel return manifold
2). Fit blocking quick-break pipe joint
onto fuel return pipe to prevent the
fuel flowing into return manifold
3). To avoid the fuel return amount of

high pressure fuel pump entering into
the one of the injector, return pipe of
high pressure fuel pump should be
removed
4). Fit return hose with negative
quick-break pipe joint onto high
pressure fuel pump, and drain the
fuel into the barrel
5). Insert return hose with positive
quick-break pipe joint into the
removed return pipe from injection
pump
6). Put the hose into graduated cylinder
to measure the fuel return amount.
5. Measure the injection amount of
injector
1). If the engine can not be started, drag
the engine and measure the fuel
return amount of injector.
Standard values Maximum 45ml
Note: The starting time of starter
must not exceed 30s. And wait
2 minutes before starting again.
2). For accurate measurement, collect 3
different flow values and get the
average.
Note: If the fuel amount is more than
the specified value, the
following injector isolation
test must be performed.

3). If the engine can be started, start the

engine
4). After inserting return hose into
graduated cylinder, measure the
injector injection amount after the
idling running of 6-cylinder engine for
1 minute.
Standard values Maximum 180ml
Note: Leakage fault may not be
detected under standard
idling condition.
5). For accurate measurement, collect 3
different flow values and get the
average.
Note: If the fuel amount is more than
the specified value, the
following injector isolation
test must be performed.
6). Before trying the isolation leakage,
ensure that all high pressure fuel
joints are tightened to the correct
torque. If not, tighten the joints again
and then perform the previous test
Note: If the fuel return amount of
injector is more than the
specified flow rate, an injector
is stopped injecting each time
to determine the leakage
point.
7). When the engine is not running,

remove fuel supply pipe connected
fuel rail to l# cylinder
8). Fit injector leakage isolation tool to
the fuel pipe rail connected to l#
cylinder
9). After a cylinder stopping injecting,

perform the leakage fuel amount test
again and record flow rate
10). Fit injector supply pipe.
11). When blocking each cylinder,
perform leak test again. Record flow
rate of each test
12). After the leaked cylinder stopping
injecting, the flow rate will be
reduced to be less than the
maximum specified value.

13). If the fuel return amount of an injector

does not change significantly when
performing this test, more than one
injector has faults.
14). Compare all the fuel amount
differences of the injector before and
after. If more than one injector fuel
amount is reduced significantly,
these injectors have faults. The
possible reason is that the used fuel
is less than the specified value. The
fuel with low viscosity may increase
the injector leakage amount and fuel
return flow rate.
Removal
2. Remove High Pressure Injector Supply

Pipe
Refer To “Replacement of high pressure
supply pipe”

Refer to “Replacement of fuel joint”
4. Remove rocker cover and gasket

Refer to “Replacement of rocker cover”

5. Remove exhaust rocker arm

Refer to “Replacement of rocker arm”
6. Remove injector
1). Remove 2 hold-down bolts of
injector, and remove hold-down
clamp of injector.
2). Remove the injector from cylinder
head with injector removal tool.
Note: Pry injector with a small
crowbar. Prying the injector
(one part of the injector body,
just above the cylinder head
casting).
3). After removing injector, ensure that

injector gasket is connected to the
bottom of the injector.
4). If injector gasket is still in the injector
hole, it must be taken out.
Note: If the gasket is stacked into
two layers or is incorrect,
performance problems such
as high pressure fuel leakage
caused by the incorrect
injector injection amount may
occur.
Refer to “Replacement of fuel joint”

Cleaning and check

1. Clean and check injector
1). Clean injector end and injector body

with solvent and the clean soft towel.
2). Clean the carbon deposits on injector
seat with injector hole brush or the
equivalent tool.
3). Clean all the debris in injector and
fuel joint hole with cleaning tool.
4). Check injector end for carbonization

or corrosion.
5). Check solenoid valve for terminal
damage.
6). Check injector inlet and high
pressure joint end for damage.
Note: Overheating will cause the
nozzle to be dark yellow and
brown or blue, depending on
the overheating temperature.
7). Check injector O-ring for damage.

Note: Replace the O-ring if
necessary.
8). Check injector resistance
Standard size Less than 3.0Ω
components.

10). Check fuel joint for damage.
11). Check if anti-rotation groove is

rotating.
Note: Violent rotation (more than
180 degrees) may cause
severe leakage of injector/fuel
joint fitting surface
12). If the high injector return pipe
leakage is caused by the violent
rotation of fuel joint cylinder head
anti-rotation groove, the cylinder
head may be replaced.
Note: Violent rotation may cause

severe leakage of injector/fuel
joint fitting surface.
Note: If the gasket is incorrect, high

pressure fuel leakage and/or
performance problems
caused by the incorrect
injector injection amount may
occur.
13). Verify that the new injector gasket
thickness is correct.
Standard size Maximum 1.5mm

Fitting
1. Fit injector
Note: The gasket is flat-type (1) and
dish-type (2). When replacing
the injector gasket, only the
dish-type gasket can be used,
rather than the flat one.
1). Verify that the injector end is fitted
with the new appropriate gasket.
2). Ensure that injector hole is clean,

and injector nozzle is fitted with a
gasket only.
3). The circular edge of the injector
fixing clamp is placed toward rocker
arm. The inlet hole of the injector
must be toward the engine intake
side.
4). Verify that the injector O-ring is new,
and it should be lubricated with clean
engine oil.
5). Align the injector in cylinder head in
the correct direction (the fuel inlet
should be toward high pressure fuel
joint).
6). Use injector socket for feeding, and

ensure that the injector is seated into
the injector hole, and if injector cover
for feeding is not used when fitting
the injector, do not put pressure on
wire terminals.
7). Lubricate fuel joint O-ring and fuel
joint mounting nut thread with clean
engine oil.
8). Insert fuel joint carefully. Align guide
rod with anti-rotation groove of
cylinder head at the 12 o'clock
position.
Note: If the new injector is fitted, the
new fuel joint must be fitted.
9). Fit mounting nuts of high pressure
fuel joint but do not tighten them.
Note: To avoid the possible
damage, apply equal even
force when fitting. Ensure that
O-ring will not be torn when
fitting the joints.

10). Fit injector hold-down parts and

injector hold-down bolts but do not
tighten them.
11). Apply the initial torque into mounting
nut of fuel joint to start to install fuel
joint to the injector.
Tightening torque l5N·m
Note: This is not the final tightening
torque of high pressure fuel
joint mounting nut.
12). Tighten injector hold-down bolts.

Note: Ensure that hold-down bolts
are tightened evenly. Check to
ensure that the clearance
between hold-down clamp
and the injector has equal
space with the injector body.
13). Tighten the bolts alternately, and
tighten 90 degrees for each circle
until that all the bolts are met
standard.
14). Tighten mounting nuts of high

pressure fuel joint.
Note: Do not tighten the joint
mounting nuts excessively. Or
the joint will be rotated out of
the joint fixing groove.

Note: If the torque is excessive, the

injector solenoid valve
terminal will be bent and
faults may occur. Do not
tighten excessively.
15). Connect the injector solenoid valve
wire to each injector.
16). Tighten solenoid valve wire with
Cummins repair tools or torque
wrench.
Tightening torque 1.5N·m
Note: Ensure that solenoid valve
wire does not contact rocker
arm when fitting.
2. Fit exhaust rocker arm

Refer to “Replacement of rocker arm”
3. Exhaust valve clearance adjustment

Refer to “Valve clearance adjustment”

4. Fit rocker cover and gasket

Refer to “Replacement of rocker cover”
5. Fit high pressure injector supply pipe

of fuel rail
Refer to “Replacement of supply pipe”
Note: Do not tighten supply pipe
joint excessively. Or the joint
will be rotated out of the joint
fixing groove.
6. Connect battery

XII. Replacement of injector supply pipe (high pressure)

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil basin, sealant

Removal
1. Initial check
1). Check injector high pressure supply
pipe for cracks, scratches, leakage
and loose or broken bracket
3. Remove high pressure supply pipe

Note: When removing and refitting
fuel pipe on the fuel joint,
antiskid tripod and socket
extension rod may be
required.
1). Before removal, record the position
of high pressure injector supply pipe.
This can ensure that these pipes are
fitted into the correct positions when
assembling
2). Disconnect injector supply pipe from
high pressure fuel joint and fuel rail
3). Remove injector supply pipe
Replacement of injector supply pipe (high pressure) 399

Check
1. Check high pressure supply pipe
1). Check ring of high pressure supply
pipe for burrs or foreign matters,
chamfering edges or cracks.
Note: Replace it if necessary.
2). Check fuel supply pipe for cracks,
wear or squeezed area.
3). Check the sealing surface of high
pressure fuel pipe both ends for
damage.
Fitting
1. Fit high pressure supply pipe
1). Untighten fuel rail mounting bolt.

Note: Do not remove fuel rail.
Unscrew the bolts so that the
fuel rail can be aligned
correctly when fitting the new
fuel pipe.
2). Tighten fuel joint nut.

Note: As long as the high pressure
injector supply pipe is
removed from the engine, fuel
joint nut of cylinder head must
be tightened again.
400 Replacement of injector supply pipe (high pressure)

3). Fit and tighten fuel pipe with hands.

4). Tighten injector high pressure supply
pipe.
5). Tighten fuel rail mounting bolt.

2. Fill fuel system with the fuel
1). Drag the engine to fill fuel system
with the fuel.
3. Connect battery
Replacement of injector supply pipe (high pressure) 401

XIII. Replacement of fuel pressure relief valve

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil basin, hair brush

Removal
1. Initial check
1). Check pressure relief valve for
leakage or other damage.
Note: Do not tighten the
components excessively to
try to stop the leakage.
Excessive tightening will
cause more serious leakage.
2). Check if too much fuel leaks from

fuel rail pressure relief valve (1) into
fuel return pipe (2).
402 Replacement of fuel pressure relief valve

3). Clean all pipe joints before

dismantling. Dirt or impurities may
damage fuel system.
4). When separating the fuel return
amount of fuel rail pressure relief
valve from the one of the injector, fuel
amount test components of fuel rail
pressure relief valve are required.
2. Separate fuel return amount of rail

pressure relief valve from the one of
the injector
1). Fit fuel rail pressure relief valve
return hose onto pressure relief valve
with hollow bolt of test components.
2). Fit the cover of pressure relief valve
test components to the available
hollow parts to cover the pressure
relief valve return pipe.
3). Put fuel rail return hose into a
measuring cup.
valve with quick-break pipe joint,
return hose with negative
quick-break pipe joint and blocking
valve.
5). Remove quick-break pipe joint from
pressure relief valve, and install a
pressure gauge adapter onto fuel rail
6). Fit a quick-break blocking pipe joint
into fuel return pipe removed from
fuel pressure relief valve.
7). Put fuel return hose into a measuring
cup.
3. Measurement
1). Put one end of fuel return pipe or
pressure gauge adapter into the
barrel to measure the flow.
Note: Technical specifications in idling
condition: no flow. If the fuel return
amount of rail pressure relief valve
exceeds technical specifications,
re-start the engine for the high
idling condition. The engine will try
to reset the valve again.
2). If the valve can not be reset, replace
Replacement of fuel pressure relief valve 403

5. Remove air intake pipe joint

Refer to “Replacement of air intake pipe
joint”
6. Remove fuel pipe pressure relief valve

1). Remove fuel pressure relief valve.
Fitting
1. Check and clean the sealing surface
between rail and fuel pressure relief
valve
2. Fit fuel pressure relief valve and
tighten it
Note: Excessive tightening of fuel
pressure relief valve may
cause leakage.
3. Fit air intake pipe joint if it has been

removed
Refer to “Replacement of air intake pipe
joint”
404 Replacement of fuel pressure relief valve

4. Connect battery
Note: Before starting the engine,
there’s no need to discharge
air from high pressure fuel
system.
5. Fuel System Exhaust
with the fuel.
Replacement of fuel pressure relief valve 405

XIV. Replacement of fuel rail

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil basin, hair brush

Removal
1. Initial check
1). Check fuel rail for leakage, loose
bolts or other damage.
3. Cleaning
1). Dry the fuel rail periphery with the
compressed air.
4. Disconnect fuel pressure sensor joint
5. Disconnect return pipe of fuel
6. Disconnect high pressure supply pipe

connected fuel pump to fuel rail
Refer to “Replacement of rail high
pressure supply pipe“
406 Replacement of fuel rail

7. Remove high pressure injector supply

pipe connected fuel rail to high
pressure joint
Refer to “Replacement of injector high
pressure supply pipe”
8. Remove fuel rail
1). Before removal, record the position
of high pressure injector supply pipe.
This can ensure that these pipes are
fitted into the correct positions when
assembling.
2). Remove fuel rail mounting bolt.

3). Remove fuel rail.
Cleaning and check

1. Check fuel rail
1). Check fuel pipe joint at fuel rail for
cracks or scratches.
2). Check the surface sealing of high
pressure pipe inlet for damage.
3). Check fuel pressure sensor and
pressure relief valve for looseness or
damage.
Note: If damage occurs, replace fuel
pressure sensor.
4). If damage occurs, replace fuel
Note: When replacing fuel rail, the
new fuel rail will be fitted with
fuel pressure sensor and fuel
Replacement of fuel rail 407

Fitting
1. Fit fuel rail
Note: Ensure that no dirt or debris
entering into fuel rail pipe
joint to prevent the
contaminants entering into
high pressure fuel rail and
injector. Even a little of dirt
and debris may cause faults
of these components.
1). Fit fuel rail to the engine.
2). Tighten fuel rail mounting bolt with
hands.
2. Fit injector supply pipe

Refer to “Replacement of injector high
3. Connect high pressure supply pipe

Refer to “Replacement of fuel rail high
4. Tighten fuel rail bolt
Note: To avoid damage of fuel rail,

injector supply pipe and high
pressure supply pipe must be
tightened before tightening
fuel rail bolt.
5. Connect fuel pressure sensor joint
6. Connect return pipe of fuel pressure
relief valve
408 Replacement of fuel rail

Note: If fuel filter head bracket cover

screw is loose when removing
fuel rail, tighten it. Ensure that
fuel filter head bracket does
not contact high pressure
supply pipe connected high
pressure fuel pump and fuel
rail.
7. Connect battery
Note: Before starting the engine,
there’s no need to discharge
air from high pressure fuel
system
8. Fuel system exhaust
with the fuel.
Replacement of fuel rail 409

XV. Replacement of fuel rail supply pipe (high pressure)

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Auxiliary materials Cloth, oil basin, sealant, hair brush

Removal
1. Initial check
1). Check high pressure supply pipe for
cracks, scratches, leakage and loose
or broken bracket.
Note: Ensure that fuel pipe has no
frictions with any
components.
3. Cleaning
1). Clean fuel rail supply pipe and the
pipe joint periphery with the steam.
4. Remove fuel rail supply pipe

1). Disconnect high pressure fuel rail
supply pipe joint from fuel pump and
fuel rail.
Note: The fuel pump joint must be
applied with a reverse torque.
This avoids the joint
looseness or reduces the
possibility of leakage.
410 Replacement of fuel rail supply pipe (high pressure)

2). For rear gear system engine, fuel rail

supply pipe and bracket may be laid
in back of air compressor. Remove
air compressor.
3). Remove mounting fastener of fuel
rail supply pipe supporting bracket.
Note: When removing, fuel rail
supply pipe should not be
bent, pried or squeezed.
4). Remove fuel rail supply pipe.
Cleaning and check

1. Clean and check rail high pressure
supply pipe
1). Check ring of high pressure supply
pipe for burrs or foreign matters,
chamfering edges or cracks.
2). Check for cracks, wear or squeezed
area.
3). Check the sealing surface of high
pressure fuel pipe both ends for
damage.
Note: Replace all the damaged
components.
Fitting
1. Fit fuel rail high pressure supply pipe

1). Fit and tighten fuel rail supply pipes
of fuel pump and fuel rail.
2). Fit mounting fastener of fuel rail
supply pipe supporting bracket.
3). Tighten mounting fastener.
Note: Ensure that fuel pipe has no
frictions with any
components.
Replacement of fuel rail supply pipe (high pressure) 411


Refer to “Replacement of air compressor”
Note: If fuel filter head bracket bolt
is loose when removing fuel
rail, tighten it.
3. Check
1). Ensure that fuel filter head bracket
does not contact with high pressure
supply pipe connected high pressure
fuel pump to fuel rail.
4. Connect battery
5. Fuel system exhaust
with the fuel.
412 Replacement of fuel rail supply pipe (high pressure)

XVI. Replacement of fuel tank assembly

Tools & auxiliary

Name & type
materials
Common tools Socket S16/S18, wrench S18/S21
Auxiliary materials Oil pan, China Phase Ⅲ diesel

Removal
1. Turn off main power switch
2. Drain the fuel of fuel tank

1). Place oil basin.
2). Remove drain plug.

3). Drain the fuel of fuel tank.
Replacement of fuel tank assembly 413

3. Remove fuel level sensor assembly

1). Loosen screw, and disconnect fuel
level sensor harness.
2). Remove screw, and take out fuel

level sensor assembly from fuel tank.
3). Cover the sensor mounting port with
plastic film.
4. Disconnect supply hose

1). Loosen nut, and disconnect supply
hose.
5. Disconnect return hose

1). Loosen nut, and disconnect return
hose.
414 Replacement of fuel tank assembly

6. Remove fuel tank assembly

1). Remove strap nut, and loosen the
fuel tank strap.
2). Remove fuel tank with flap assembly

from fuel tank upper bracket.
3). Remove fuel tank flap.
Check
1. Check fuel tank assembly
1). Check fuel tank for deformation or
cracks.
2). Check if joint welding of supply hose
and return hose is secure.
Note: If deformation or cracks
occur, replace with the new
fuel tank.
Replacement of fuel tank assembly 415

Fitting
1. Fit fuel tank flap
1). Fit the new fuel tank flap.
2. Fit fuel tank assembly

1). Place fuel tank on the bracket.
2). Tighten strap nut.
3. Connect supply hose and return hose
4. Fit fuel level sensor assembly

1). Fit fuel level sensor assembly with
screw.
5. Fill the fuel
6. Bleed low pressure fuel duct
416 Replacement of fuel tank assembly

Intake, exhaust and turbocharger system

I. General
(i) Intake system
The intake system consists of the air service pipe, intake pipe, air filter assembly, air compressor
intake pipe and brackets. It is primarily used for supplying sufficient amount of clean air to the
running engine. The air filter is the most important part assembly in the intake system.
The air filter, a two-stage and dry-type air filter with paper filter cartridge, is mainly applied to areas
with less dust, such as roads and ports. The rated air intake flow of the air filter is 700m3/h
(KD1/KD2/KD3) or 900m3/h (KD4/KD5/KD6). The main cartridge and safety cartridge are both
secured with the studs which are fixed on the housing. The structure is simple and facilitates
removal and maintenance. The main cartridge is made of millipore filter paper. When the air flows
through the main cartridge, the small dust particles are filtered out from the air, thus ensuring the
filtering performance. The safety cartridge functions to protect the engine in case the main cartridge
breaks.
Overview of intake system

1. The combustion air system consists
of:
1). Air filter
2). Intake pipe
3). Turbocharger
4). Air-air intercooler pipeline
5). Air-air intercooler
6). Exhaust manifold
7). Intake heater.
Note: descriptions of the exhaust system
components are included in “Exhaust
system – general”.
Turbocharger
In the turbocharger, the turbine wheel is driven
by the exhaust energy generated from the
engine.
The turbine wheel drives the compressor
impeller via a common shaft. The compressor
impeller draws the intake air through the air
filter and the air inlet and then drives the air
into the compressor housing of the
turbocharger. The air is compressed by the
compressor impeller prior to being conveyed
into the air-air intercooler.
General 417
The engine oil is used for bearing lubrication and

turbocharger cooling. The oil supplied to the
turbocharger via the feed pipe is under the engine
operating pressure. The return pipe connected to the
bottom of the turbocharger enables the oil return to
the engine oil sump.
The turbine, compressor impeller and wheel shaft are

supported by two swivel bearings in the bearing
housing. The bearing seat channel guides the filtered
and compressed oil into the bearing and thrust
bearing. The oil is used to lubricate and cool the
rotating components. Then the oil from the bearing
seat returns to the engine oil sump via the return pipe.
In order to ensure the long service life of the
turbocharger, of great importance is the sufficient
amount of high quality and filtered oil. Make sure to
use high quality oil and replace the oil filter according
to the maintenance recommendations.
The exhaust bypass turbocharger is used to provide

the best performance.
The exhaust bypass design can allow for maximum
pressure boost on a rapid basis and prevent
overspeed of the turbocharger when the engine runs
at a high speed as well.
The operation of the exhaust bypass valve is
controlled by the actuator. The actuator detects the
compressor pressure and keeps it balanced with the
preset spring load. The exhaust bypass valve is
located in the intake duct of the turbine. It is opened to
bleed part of the exhaust gas through the turbine
wheel, thus controlling the wheel shaft speed and
supercharging pressure.
Not all the turbochargers are equipped with exhaust
bypass device.
Turbocharger faults
The faults of the turbocharger internal components
may cause performance reduction. Bearing faults may
lead to friction and thus reduce the rotor assembly
speed. Bearing faults may cause friction between the
blade and housing of the rotor assembly and thus lead
to reduction in the rotor assembly speed.
Check for friction between the blade and housing and
clean the housing and the area between them with
cotton swabs soaked in cleaning agent. All dirt
deposits on the housing due to a too short distance
from the blade channel can be removed, which
provides a cleaning surface.
418 General
Oil seal ring is fitted on each end of the rotor

assembly, primarily for preventing the exhaust
air and compressed air from entering the
turbocharger housing. Leakage of the oil seal
is not normal but may occur.
Note: too high crankcase pressure may make
the oil fail to return to the turbocharger and
thus increase the load on the bearing housing
and cause the oil to leak into the engine intake
and exhaust systems through the seal ring.
For the engine with a post processing system,
if the oil leaks into the exhaust system through
the turbine seal ring, make sure to check the
post processing system before reusing it.
Blockage or damage of the oil return pipe may

increase the pressure in the turbocharger
housing and thus cause the oil leakage to
occur at the seal rings at the turbocharger
intake and exhaust sides.
In addition, a too high intake or exhaust

resistance may lead to a vacuum between the
compressor and turbocharger housing and
cause oil leakage in the oil seal at the
compressor (intake) side.
Note: in this case, it is required to flush the
air-air intercooler to remove the oil from the
intake system.
Turbocharger noises
In normal conditions, the turbocharger whines
and the sound intensity varies with the turbine
wheel speed. The sound is caused by the
rotor assembly rotating at an extremely high
speed combined with the rotor assembly
balance method adopted in production.
General 419
Leakage in intake or exhaust components of

the air system may produce too loud engine
noises. The leakage noise sounds like the
“whine” with high frequency or sound of air
suction.
Check the intake and exhaust systems for
leakage. Check and ensure that all hose
clamps are tightened firmly.
The lower thump noise from the engine at low
speed may indicate that there is debris in the
system or friction occurs between the rotor
assembly and housing.
Remove the turbocharger inlet and check for
foreign matters. Check the turbocharger blade
for damage and the bearing for clearance as
necessary.
Air-air intercooled engine
The vehicle engine provides an improved
engine performance and reduced emission via
the intercooler mounted on the chassis. The
system also uses the large-diameter pipe to
convey the air from the engine turbocharger to
the air-air intercooler and then return the air
from the air-air intercooler to the engine intake
manifold.
The temperature of the intake air due to the

turbocharger compression rises. The heated
air is cooled when passing through the air-air
intercooler. Cold air has a higher density,
therefore, more compressed air flows into the
cylinder, which makes the fuel combustion
more effective.
Note: the vehicle and parts manufacturers are
responsible for ensuring the long-term
integrity for the air-air intercooler system.
Intake manifold and cold start auxiliary
device
Note: The intake pipe joint types vary
depending on the engine applications. The
intake pipe joints can function in the same way
even though they look different.
The intake manifold is used for connecting the
intake downstream of the cold start auxiliary
device cylinder head.
Two types of intake manifold and cold start
auxiliary device are used.
1). One-piece intake manifold with a
cylindrical cold start auxiliary device.
420 General
2). Two-piece intake manifold with a

square cold start auxiliary device (not
shown in the figure).
The cold start auxiliary device, an intake

heater core, is used to preheat the intake air
under cold ambient temperature. The ON/OFF
operation of the intake heater is controlled by
the engine ECM. The engine ECM controls a
solenoid valve which supplies power to the
intake heater when receiving an order.
Description for air intake flow

Air filter
Firstly, the air flows through the air filter where the foreign matters and debris are filtered out.
Intake pipe and turbocharger
Then, the air flows through the intake pipe at the inlet of the turbocharger compressor. When
reaching the compressor impeller, the air is compressed and drawn into the intake pipe of the air-air
intercooler.
Air-air intercooler
The air flows out from the outlet of the turbocharger compressor and then flows through the air-air
intercooler, causing part loss of heat due to the compression of air. Lower temperature increases
the air density, which makes the engine comply with the emission requirements and provide high
performance.
Intake joint adapter, intake joint and intake manifold
The air flows out from the air-air intercooler outlet and into the intake joint adapter (if equipped)
which is an adjustable elbow giving flexibility to the intake system pipe line to a curtain extent. The
air flows from the intake joint adapter into the intake pipe joint and then through the cold start
auxiliary device into the intake manifold where the cooled fresh gas-air mixture enters the cylinder
for combustion.
General 421
Flow diagram of intake system
1. to the turbocharger air inlet 4. intake manifold (integral with the cylinder head)
2. air from the turbocharger to the air-air intercooler 5. intake valve
3. air-air intercooler
422 General
(ii) Exhaust and post processing system

Exhaust flow diagram
Flow diagram of exhaust system
Structure diagram for exhaust and post processing system
General 423
The intake system components together with the exhaust system components provide a proper
intake air flow to the engine. The General gives an overview of the main components in the exhaust
system. A post processing system is added on the exhaust system. Commins engines is applicable
to CES post processing systems, including the measuring pump, exhaust processor, urea tank and
NOx sensor, etc.
The ECM intelligent ECU precisely controls the urea injection according to the engine load and
operation, resulting in lower emission of NOx and PM and compliance with the China Phase IV
emission regulations for the vehicle.
Introduction to SCR: SCR is the shortened form of Selective, Catalytic and Reduction. SCR is an
exhaust post processing technique for diesel engine, which is based on the principle of selective
catalytic reduction, reduces NOx emission by means of urea injection to the exhaust gas in the
catalyst converter, allowing for the reaction between the ammonia and NOx and forming harmless
products such as nitrogen and water.
Exhaust manifold
Depending on the application, the exhaust
manifold varies with the fitting position
required for the turbocharger.
Some types of engines are equipped with the
two-piece exhaust manifold with slip joints.
The joint allows the thermal expansion for the
exhaust manifold without durability reduction
in the application under high power.
Turbocharger
In the turbocharger, the turbine wheel is driven
by the exhaust energy generated from the
engine.
The turbine wheel drives the compressor
impeller via a common shaft. The compressor
impeller draws the intake air through the air
filter and the air inlet and then drives the air
into the compressor housing of the
turbocharger. The air is compressed by the
compressor impeller prior to being conveyed
into the air-air intercooler.
The exhaust bypass valve actuator mounted

on the turbocharger consists of the pressure
filter canister, diaphragm and actuator lever.
The actuator lever may adjust the exhaust
bypass valve according to the pressure
(controlled by the controller of exhaust bypass
valve) in the filter canister.
The exhaust bypass valve is fitted on the
turbocharger in the turbine housing. With the
bypass valve opening, the exhaust flows
through the bypass valve to the turbine blade,
reducing the turbine speed and adjusting the
intake manifold pressure.
424 General
Exhaust brake
The optional exhaust brake can be used to
reduce the vehicle speed.
The engine exhaust brake can reduce the
engine speed in towing operation to produce
extra braking force and extend the lifetime of
service brake.
The exhaust brake can reduce the engine

speed by means of providing very high
exhaust back pressure. The back pressure
can be obtained by limiting the air flow in the
exhaust system. The exhaust brake is active
only when the throttle pedal is in the low idle
position; in this case, no reduction of braking
force in the brake system occurs due to the
fuel supplying command sent to the cylinder.
Urea tank
Structural requirements for the urea tank: the
urea tank should be vented under low
pressure with both the inlet and outlet opened
to the atmosphere, allowing all of the steam to
freely flow out from the tank through the outlet
joint and be drained or allowing for certain
expansion space in the tank. The air vent
should be designed to withstand shaking and
avoid pipe blockage caused by the urea
crystals formed during urea evaporation.
Material requirements for the urea tank: the
ammonia required for SCR process comes
from 32.5% aqueous urea solution known as
ADBLUE. In the case of chemistry, urea is a
kind of salt or strong base causing strong
corrosive action on other materials including
metals and some polymers. The materials
suitable for making a urea tank include
stainless steel, magnalium or high density
polyethylene except mild steel.
General 425
Urea pipe
The urea pipe is made of special nylon
material with a quick joint complying with ISO
standards on each end. During the processes
before fitting, such as storage and
transportation, the dust cap should not fall off
from the joint. The urea solution pipeline can
be made of Teflon, nylon and stainless steel.
Heater solenoid valve

Fit the heater solenoid valve in the vertical
direction with the electrical interface upward.
There are arrows on the valve body indicating
that the engine hot water outlet connects to
the solenoid valve inlet and the solenoid valve
water outlet to the urea tank inlet.
Note: the cooling system should be
filled with clean coolant to
prevent the solenoid valve
from becoming inoperative
due to blockage.
Post processor (EGP)

In general, the post processor (EGP) is made
of the hydraulic glass fiber base for the
mid-duty vehicle and monolithic cordierite
base with easy-to-clean coating of vanadium
pentoxide for the heavy-duty vehicle. The post
processor must be replaced in case of
poisoning which cannot be handled via any
cleaning method. Do not disassemble the
EGP of heavy-duty vehicle which contains
carcinogen, but make sure to take safety
steps during maintenance.
Measuring pump
The measuring pump can be operated
through the voltages of 12 or 24VDC. The
built-in heating device can ensure the system
to operate under the ambient temperature
ranging from -40 ℃ up to 85 ℃ . The
measuring pump, according to the command
from EMC (J1939 communication protocol),
use the compressed air from the system to
deliver the correct amount of urea into the
urea nozzle where the urea is injected into the
engine exhaust pipe.
Note: the pump is a “black box” and
cannot be serviced.
426 General
Oil-gas separator
The oil-gas separator prevents the oil in the
compressed air from entering into the post
processor. There are direction signs on the
top side of the separator. The inlet and outlet
joints are of quick joints directly connected to
the nylon pipe with an external diameter of
6cm. The separator should be replaced every
60,000km.
Nozzle
The nozzle is made of stainless steel with an
internal ceramic insulation layer, producing
mist via the small nozzle hole. The nozzle
should be replaced every two years or
200,000km.
The injector has three holes which should face
to the catalytic converter along instead of
opposite to the exhaust airflow during the
ejection. The injector is positioned in the
decomposition pipe with a small pin. The
nozzle tip has small holes of 3×0.55mm which
atomize the urea and air and then directly
injects them to the exhaust gas and EGP. The
nozzle is made of stainless steel 304 with a
ceramic core. Be careful to prevent the
ceramic core from falling off when repairing
the nozzle, as this could cause damage to the
ceramic coating.
Inlet and outlet temperature sensors

The post processor (EGP) has 1 NOx sensor
and 2 catalytic temperature sensors (1 inlet
temperature sensor and 1 outlet temperature
sensor) which are designed to determine
when the catalytic converter reaches the
required operating temperature ranging from
-40℃to 850℃. The lead harness is designed
to withstand high temperature.
Note: the inlet and outlet
temperature sensors should
not be inverted as this could
affect the normal operation of
the system. The joints are in
different colors to prevent
errors.
General 427
NOx sensor
NOx sensor is an intelligent device used to
measure NOx emission from the engine
outlet. It consists of sensor head, control
module and connecting cable. It
communicates with the controlling unit of post
processor (DCU) and EECU via the body bus
and has a self-diagnostic system in the
assembly. The sensor selects its own
operating conditions and report faults to the
controlling unit of post processor (DCU) and
EECU via the body CAN bus. The NOx sensor
is permanently fixed on NOx control module
and can be serviced as an assembly. Do not
replace it separately!
Operating conditions for NOx sensor

1. With the ignition switch on, NOx sensor, after heating up to 100℃, will stop heating before
EECU sends a “dew point” temperature signal. The “dew point” temperature indicates a value above
which there is no longer moisture harmful to NOx sensor in the exhaust system. Currently, the dew
point temperature is set to 140℃ referring to the value read from EGP outlet temperature sensor.
2. The sensor heats itself automatically to a set temperature (up to 800 ℃) after receiving the
dew point temperature signal from ECM.
Note: in this case, if the sensor head contacts with water, the sensor will be damaged.
3. The sensor starts to carry out normal measurement after the operating temperature is reached.
4. The sensor sends NOx values to the CAN bus and thus the engine post processor unit can
monitor NOx emission based on the received value.
The basic measuring principle of NOx sensor:
NOx sensor functions equivalent to 2 oxygen sensors and has 2 measuring chambers. In the first
chamber, oxygen in the exhaust gas is pumped out and HC, CO, H2 are oxidized on the platinum
material; in the second chamber, NOx is deoxidized on the catalytic material, thus releasingO2, and
the measured amount of O2 in the second chamber therefore indicates the content of NOx.
Monitoring and diagnosing of NOx sensor
NOx sensor, after normal operation, sends the value of NOx in the exhaust gas to the controlling
unit of post processor (DCU) in real time. The controlling unit of post processor (DCU) determines
whether the exhaust gas is up to standards by means of measuring the value of NOx through a set
of NOx detection procedures instead of motoring it in real time.
In order to perform NOx motoring, the following conditions must be met:
1. There is no fault code related to the cooling water temperature sensor
2. There is no fault code related to the ambient pressure sensor
3. The cooling water temperature > 70℃
4. The altitude < 1600m
428 General
Urea temperature/level sensor

There is an integrated urea temperature/level
sensor on the top of the urea tank used to
measure the level and temperature of the
urea.
In SCR system, as the urea consumption
accounts for5%-7% of diesel consumption, the
recommended design volume of the urea tank
is 5%-7% of that of the fuel tank.
Description of operation for post processing system

The charging device of the post processing system works in 3 stages:
1. System pre-filling: perform a self-test for each sensor and then bleed the liquid urea pipeline.
2. Measuring and charging: when relevant conditions are met, inject a certain amount of urea into
the exhaust pipe to reduce NOx emission.
3. System draining: drain the urea remaining in the urea pipeline, as the urea remains may form
crystal which could block the measuring pump and injection pipeline.
The working principle diagram and related description of the post processing system are shown
below.
General 429
I. System pre-filling
1. Air solenoid valve 8. Pressure switch 15. Level sensor

2. Air pressure regulator 9. Outlet check valve 16. Temperature sensor
3. Air actuator valve 10. Temperature sensor 17. Inlet temperature sensor
4. Air measuring hole 11. Position sensor 18. Outlet temperature sensor
5. Mixing chamber 12. Measuring pump controller 19. Post processing system (EGP)
6. Air back pressure valve 13. Pump motor
7. DEF back pressure valve 14. Inlet check valve
1. At each engine starting, the measuring pump carries out pre-filling at first. With the
ignition switch on, the measuring pump enters into initialization phase, starting with
performing self-test for each internal element including pressure switch and
temperature sensor, etc.
2. The engine starts when the self-test has been passed. At this time, the measuring pump
controller receives a signal from EMC and sends the signal to the pump motor in the
urea tank to drive it run, and then the urea flows from the urea tank to the pump and
finally returns to the urea tank. In this process, the air in the liquid urea pipelines drained,
and the measuring pump could run at full speed for 30 s.
430 General
The end of pre-filling stage

3. 30 s latter, the measuring controller sends a signal to the air solenoid valve, when
receiving the signal, the air solenoid valve opens and moves downward to connect with
the pressure regulator. Then the pressure regulator sends a signal to the air actuator
valve to make it move downward to connect with the pressure switch. The pressure
switch moves downward and blocks the running of the urea pump motor. Under above
conditions, the air flows through the air solenoid valve and then into the air mixing
chamber from the air tank with the operation of the pressure regulator. Then the air
flows through the air check valve into the nozzle by which the air is injected out.
General 431
II. Charging stage of the measuring pump

5. Mixing chamber 12. Measuring pump controller 19. Post processing system EGP
1. At the end of pre-filling, the air solenoid valve opens and the measuring pump motor
stops, and then the measuring pump enters into “standby” mode waiting the measuring
and injecting command from the controlling unit of post processor (DCU). The
measuring pump injects urea only when the following conditions are met:
1). The exhaust inlet and outlet temperature reaches up to 230℃.
2). There is no fault code related to SCR system.
3). The urea level in the urea tank > 6%
4). Air pressure > 4bar, urea pressure = 3bar
5). Urea temperature > -5℃
6). The urea is injected according to the NOx calculation method.
2. If the temperature of two exhaust temperature sensors does not reach 230℃, the
measuring pump cannot perform measuring and injection, however, the air will flow
through the measuring pump into the nozzle, which can prevent the injection pipeline
and nozzle from being blocked and provide cooling to them.
432 General
3. When sensing that the urea injecting conditions have been met, the controlling unit of
post processor will send a signal to the measuring pump controller which will in proper
order control the operation of the pump motor, at this time, the urea will flow through the
back pressure valve into the nozzle by which the urea is injected into the exhaust pipe.
III. System draining

1. With the ignition switch off, the measuring pump controller receives an ECM signal to
make the pump motor stop. The system enters into the draining stage. The compressed
air flows through the measuring pump into the nozzle and take out all of the urea
remaining in the pipeline, as the urea remains may form crystal which could block the
measuring pump and injection pipeline.
2. The system is powered off after 30 s of draining. At the end of the draining stage, a
sound of air solenoid valve engaging can be heard.
Note: if too many times of abnormal draining have been performed by the measuring
pump, its non-switching power supply must be checked. OEM must provide the
measuring pump with non-switching power supply to ensure that the measuring
pump has power supply to perform draining for required time with the ignition
switch off. Extra care should be taken for the dangerous goods transport
vehicles, tankers and some buses.
General 433
Description for exhaust gas flow
1. Exhaust manifold
After combustion, the exhaust gas flows out from the exhaust system into the exhaust manifold. The
exhaust manifold supports the turbocharger and supplies sealing for all the exhaust gas.
The exhaust gas from the turbine housing flows through the exhaust manifold into the turbine
chamber inlet where it drives the turbine wheel which is connected to the compressor impeller via a
common shaft and in turn drives the compressor impeller. By this means more pressure is built up
by the turbocharger, which makes the engine provide more power with less emission. Then the
exhaust gas flows out from the turbine chamber into the exhaust pipe system.
2. Turbocharger exhaust bypass valve
The turbocharger with exhaust bypass improves the engine response at low speed without
reduction in the durability of the turbocharger at high speed. This is achieved by means of making
the exhaust gas bypass the turbine wheel in special engine operation mode. At low speed, the
turbocharger operates in a closed system and transmits the exhaust energy to the compressor
impeller for compressing the intake air. At high speed, it functions in an open system and allows the
exhaust gas to bypass the turbine.
As the exhaust gas bypasses the turbine, little heat is drawn by the turbine and transmitted to the
compressor, reducing the pressure in the intake manifold and the turbine speed.
Service and maintenance
1. Cleaning requirements for the urea system
Extra care should be taken for the cleaning of the system even though filtering device is fitted to
prevent the foreign matters from affecting the system performance.
The urea solution and its pipeline should be insulated from the foreign dirt and the joints should not
be disconnected arbitrarily, as the foreign matters may bypass the filtering device and directly enter
and damage the system. If necessary, clean the interfaces and their surrounding areas before
disconnecting and protect the joints, for example, install a dust cap to prevent the dirt from entering
the pipeline or measuring pump.
Keep the urea filler, filling devices (e.g. funnel) and their surrounding areas clean, or else, foreign
matters such as dust may enter the urea tank during filling, causing filter blockage, aging and
contamination of urea solution, etc.
Dry the vent valve on the urea tank with compressed air on a regular basis. After filling, plug the
rubber plug to prevent the urea from splashing. The drain outlet at the bottom of the urea tank
facilitates regular maintenance.
2. Protect the catalytic converter against contamination
The catalytic converter is made of ceramic material with a cellular structure. The fuel, engine oil and
coolant may cause contamination to the catalytic converter leading to conversion efficiency
reduction.
Check the turbocharger for oil leakage or cylinder wear, as these could cause oil carry-over or oil
leak in the valve oil seal.
Regularly replace the oil-gas separator which is used to prevent the oil in the compressed air
entering the system. The oil-gas separator element should be replaced every 60,000km.
3. Urea storage
According to ISO22241-3 combined with the actual situation of the company, the selected urea
solution for vehicle must be stored in a lightproof area at an ambient temperature of 5℃ to 25℃.
The warranty periods are shown below.
Warranty periods of urea for vehicle
Storage ambient temperature (℃) Min. warranty period (months)
≤10 36
≤25 18
434 General
≤30 12
≤35 6
＞35 ——
a. In order to prevent the urea solution from decomposing, avoid extension of time for transport or
storage above 25℃.
b. Check if every batch of urea is up to standards before using.
Note: the storage ambient temperature and initial basicity of the urea solution are the
main factors for determining the warranty periods shown in the table. The
additional factor is the difference of urea evaporation between ventilated
container and non-ventilated container.
For complete vehicles with urea solution, the efficacy of the urea solution should be checked. For
complete vehicles in storage period, the relationship between the warranty period of the urea
solution and the ambient temperature is the same as that shown in the above table. If the storage
period exceeds the warranty period, drain the urea solution in the urea tank through the drain valve
at the bottom and refill it with the acceptable urea solution before taking the vehicle out of storage. If
the ambient temperature exceeds 35℃, check the urea solution for acceptance before taking the
vehicle out of storage. If the urea solution is rejected, drain the urea tank through the drain valve
and refill it with acceptable urea solution.
The storage vessel should be made of ISO22241-3 recommended materials which should have
good compatibility with the urea solution without chemical reaction or impurity migration, such as
austenitic alloy, and Teflon, polyethylene and polypropylene without additive. At the temperature
below 5℃, the storage vessel should have sufficient vacant space for the urea volume increment of
7% due to transformation from liquid to solid.
As the exhaust gas bypasses the turbine wheel, little heat is drawn by the turbine and transmitted to
the compressor, reducing the pressure in the intake manifold and the turbine speed.
(iii) Compressed air system
General
Generally, the compressed air system

consists of the gear-driven air compressor, air
pressure regulator, air tank and all the
necessary pipelines.
General 435
Air compressor
The air compressor is available in two different
configurations depending on application.
1). Turbocharged – the intake air is
sourced from the engine intake
manifold; the air pressure is
equivalent to the engine intake air
pressure.
2). Naturally aspirated - the intake air is
the separated and filtered engine
intake air or is sourced before the
engine turbocharger inlet. The air
compressor intake air is not under
pressure.
Depending on application, the air compressor
is available in one of the following
configurations: high-mounted at the chamber
opening or low-mounted on the rear gear
chamber.
The air compressor also has mounting parts
driving the accessories, such as the
steering/hydraulic pump.
The air compressor must be correctly timed

with the engine to prevent intensification of the
engine vibration.
The key factor determining the reliability and

durability of the air compressor in application
is whether the air compressor supplies air in
most time during vehicle/machine operation,
which is called air compressor load cycle.
The air compressor is not designed to pump
air continually. A lot of heat is generated
during air pumping and then dissipated when
the air compressor does not pump air (idle
running).
436 General
The maintenance/service of the compressed

air system can help to minimize the air
compressor load cycle and improve its
reliability and durability. The items include but
not limited to:
1). Check and avoid the leakage in the

system leaks. The long time air
leakage can double or triple the load
cycle. It is important to pay close
attention to the air leakage in the air
system and repair it.
2). Check the exhaust port, exhaust pipe
and joints for carbon deposit. If there
is any carbon deposit or resistance,
clean or replace the parts as
necessary.
3). Check the air pipe and joints
between the air dryer outlet and the
first fuel tank after the air dryer for
moisture or oil. The fuel tank should
be dry. If there is oil, replace the
desiccant in the dryer and clean the
downstream systems and
components as necessary.
Air compressor cylinder head
The air compressor cylinder head is cooled by

the engine coolant. The cylinder contains the
intake and exhaust valves which adjust the air
flowing through the cylinder head.
The most air compressor cylinder heads can
be serviced without removal of the air
compressor. This manual introduces the
maintenance of cylinder head of the engine with
a compressor. Replace the air compressor if
there is any internal damage.
Note: It is important to check that
the replacement part is usable
before removing the air
compressor cylinder head.
Some air compressor cylinder
heads cannot be serviced
separately.
General 437
Air pressure regulator

The air compressor operates continually with
two operation modes, i.e. load running and
idle running. The operation modes are
controlled by means of driving the air pressure
regulator and air compressor unloading valve
assembly via pressure. The air pressure
regulator can be positioned on the air
compressor or at the far end on the vehicle.
When the air system reaches the preset
pressure, the pressure regulator sends an air
signal to the unloading valve assembly to
make it open or closes the compressor intake
valve, thus the compressed air stops flowing
into the compressed air system
When the system starts to operate, the
pressure decreases. Under the preset
pressure, the pressure regulator sends an air
signal to the compressor unloading valve
assembly to allow the compressor to pump
compressed air into the air system again.
Air supply
The air flows from the engine intake joint into
the air compressor. Then the
turbocharged/pressurized air is supplied to the
air compressor. The air is compressed in the
air compressor and conveyed into the
compressed air system. In order to regulate
the pressure in the compressed air system,
the air pressure regulator is used to adjust the
air pressure at its port. By this means, it can be
determined when the compressor is loaded or
unloaded.
Coolant supply
The air compressor cylinder head is cooled by
the engine coolant. The engine coolant flows
out from a port in the cylinder block into the air
compressor cylinder head through an external
coolant feed pipe. The coolant passes through
the cylinder head and then returns to a port in
the rear part of the cylinder head through an
external coolant return pipe.
Oil supply
The oil is supplied to the air compressor via a
built-in oil duct in the rear gear chamber. The
oil flows out and passes through the air
compressor, then returns to the engine
through the air compressor drive opening in
the gear chamber.
438 General
Flow diagram of compressed air system
1. Air intake 4. Coolant return

2. Air exhaust 5. Oil feed (from inside to the gear chamber)
3. Coolant feed 6. Oil return (from inside to the gear chamber)
General 439
(iv) Technical parameters of intake/exhaust system

Technical specifications of intake system
Item Metric British
Max. intake resistance (clean air filter element) 245mmH2O 10.0inH2O
Max. intake resistance(dirty air filter element) 635mmH2O 25.0inH2O
Technical specifications of exhaust system
Item Metric British
Max. back Without exhaust urea 10kPa 1.5psi

pressure
measured at the
turbocharger
outlet (exhaust
manifold outlet of With exhaust urea 15kPa 2.2psi
the naturally
aspirated engine)
440 General
II. Replacement of air compressor

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials
Special tools Engine barring gear
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, oil, sealant, hair brush

Removal
1. Tilt the cab
3. Remove the air compressor (wabco)
1). Remove all the P-clamps or

mounting fasteners that secure the
air compressor inlet pipe.
2). Remove the hose clamps that secure
the air compressor inlet pipe.
3). Disconnect the inlet pipe from the
intake joint and the air compressor
cylinder head in proper order
4). Remove the air compressor inlet
pipe.
5). Remove all the P-clamps or

mounting fasteners that secure the
air compressor coolant pipeline.
6). Remove the hose clamps that secure
the air compressor coolant pipeline.
7). Disconnect the air compressor
coolant feed pipe from the cylinder
block and the air compressor cylinder
head in proper order.
Replacement of air compressor 441

8). Remove the air compressor coolant

feed pipe.
9). Disconnect the air compressor
coolant return pipe from the rear part
of the cylinder head and the air
compressor cylinder head in proper
order.
10). Remove the air compressor coolant
return pipe.
11). Remove the mounting bolts of the air

compressor support bracket.
12). Remove the bolts that secure the air
compressor support bracket and the
cylinder block mounting bracket.
13). Fit the air compressor support
bracket.
14). Remove the mounting fasteners of

the air compressor rear gear
chamber.
15). Remove the air compressor and the
mounting gasket. Discard the used
gasket.
4. Remove the air compressor

(Knorr-Bremse)
1). Remove all the pipelines of the air
compressor.
2). Remove four mounting bolts of the
air compressor support bracket.
3). Fit the air compressor support
bracket.
442 Replacement of air compressor

4). Remove the mounting fasteners of

the air compressor rear gear
chamber.
5). Remove the air compressor and the
mounting part O-ring.
Checking
1. Check the air compressor
1). Check the exhaust port, exhaust pipe
and joints for carbon deposit. If there
is any carbon deposit or resistance,
clean or replace the parts as
necessary.
2). Check the air pipe and joints
between the air dryer outlet and the
first fuel tank after the air dryer for
moisture or oil. The fuel tank should
be dry. If there is oil, replace the
desiccant in the dryer and clean the
downstream systems and
components as necessary.
Refitting
1. Connect all the pipelines of the air
compressor
2. Fit the air compressor (wabco)

1). Fit the cylinder block mounting
bracket and the mounting fasteners.
2). Tighten the mounting fasteners by
hands.

3). Use the barring gear or the

equivalents to turn the crankshaft
until cylinder 1 reaches the TDC
position.
Note: During fitting, the air
compressor must be correctly
timed on the engine to prevent
vibration intensification of the
engine.
4). Calibrate the damper to set the Top

Dead Centre (TDC) mark to the “12
o’clock” position.
Note: If there is no Top Dead Centre

(TDC) mark on the damper
and the crankshaft speed
indicating ring, align the big
notch on the crankshaft speed
indicating ring to the “5
o’clock” position (2). It is also
required that the locating pin
can be seen at“9 o’clock”
position (1).
5). Set the timing mark on the air

compressor gear to the “9 o’clock”
position (face to the gear). It should
point to the notch of the side casting
of the air compressor mounting
flange.

6). Before fitting the air compressor,

select the gasket to be fitted to
correctly position it.
Note: two types of accessory drive
cover gaskets, three round oil
feed ducts and a slender oil
feed duct, four round oil feed
ducts.
Note: place the air compressor

gasket flat on the gear
chamber without interference
to prevent air compressor
faults.
7). With the engine set to the Top Dead
Centre (TDC) position, fit the air
compressor and a new gasket on the
rear gear chamber, so that the air
compressor can drive gear engage
with the camshaft gear.
8). Fit and tighten the air compressor

mounting fasteners.
3. Fit the air compressor (Knorr-Bremse)

1). During alignment, set the air
compressor to the Top Dead Centre
(TDC) position through aligning two
timing marks on the rear part of the
compressor and the rear drive.
2). Apply clean 15W-40 engine oil or
assembly lubricating oil or the
equivalents to two grooves for the
O-rings, helping to ensure that the
O-rings sit in position during fitting of
the compressor.
3). Fit new O-rings on the air
compressor.

4). As shown at right, position the big

O-ring (1) and the small O-ring (2)
simultaneously in the grooves;
ensure to position them correctly.
5). With the engine set to the Top Dead
Centre (TDC) position, Fit the air
compressor and make the air
compressor drive gear engage with
the camshaft gear.
6). Fit and tighten the mounting
fasteners of the air compressor.
7). Fit four mounting bolts of the air

compressor support bracket and
tighten them by hands.
8). Tighten the mounting bolts of the air
compressor support bracket in the
sequence shown in the illustration.

5. Lower the cab
6. Run the engine and check for normal
operation

III. Replacement of air jumper pipe

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials
Common tools Wrench, socket, screwdriver
Testing tools Torque wrench(5-24N·m)
Auxiliary materials cleaning cloth, hair brush

Removal
1. Remove the air jumper pipe

1). Loosen the hose clamps and adjust
the position of the jumper pipe until it
can be removed.
Cleaning and checking

1. Clean and check the air jumper pipe
1). Check the jumper pipe for any crack,
hole or wear.
2). Check the seal between the hose
and the pipe.
3). Check the clamps for any wear.
4). Replace the damaged parts with new
hose and clamps, if necessary.
Replacement of air jumper pipe 447

Refitting
1. Fit the air jumper pipe
1). Fit the jumper pipe and the clamps in
the reverse order to removal.
2). Tighten the clamps.
Tightening torque 5±1N·m
448 Replacement of air jumper pipe

IV. Replacement of intake joint

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, hair brush

Removal
1. Remove the intake pipe joint

1). Loosen the clamps that secure the
intake pipe joint and that secure the
intake pipe to the turbocharger inlet.
2). Remove the intake joint and take
care not to let the dirt or debris enter
into the turbocharger.

1. Clean and check the intake pipe joint
1). Clean the pipe and joint with solvent
or hot suds and dry them with
compressed air.
2). Check the pipe and joint for any
crack, hole or wear.
Note: if there is any damage, replace
the damaged parts.
Replacement of intake joint 449

Refitting
1. Fit the intake pipe joint
1). Fit the intake pipe and joint.
2). Tighten the connecting clamps.
leakage
450 Replacement of intake joint

V. Replacement of intake manifold

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials
Auxiliary materials cleaning cloth

Preparation steps
2. Remove the air-air intercooler pipe
3. Remove the injector fuel feed pipeline

Refer to “Replacement of the injector fuel
feed pipeline”
4. Remove the fuel feed pipeline
5. Remove the high-pressure fuel rail

Refer to “Replacement of the
high-pressure fuel rail”
Replacement of intake manifold 451

6. Remove the intake pipe joint

Refer to “Replacement of the intake pipe
joint”
Note: For some engines, the intake
pipe joint is a part of the
intake manifold
(unremovable).
7. Remove the cold start auxiliary device

Refer to “Replacement of the cold starter”
8. Remove the intake manifold
temperature/pressure sensor
Refer to “Replacement of the intake
manifold temperature/pressure sensor”
9. Remove the two-piece intake manifold

Note: the seal material and other
materials must not enter into
the air inlet.
1). Remove six bolts that secure the
upper and lower parts of the
manifold.
Note: there is a cap bolt (1) in the
manifold. With the other 5
bolts removed, the cap bolt
must be removed as well to
protect the intake manifold
from being damaged.
2). Remove the lower half of the intake
manifold.
3). If the intake manifold is intended to

remain detached for a long time, seal
the opening with adhesive tapes to
prevent debris entering the intake
system.
452 Replacement of intake manifold

10. Remove the one-piece manifold

1). Remove the intake manifold
mounting bolts.
Note: the RTV sealant is used
between the intake manifold
and the cylinder head. During
removing the intake manifold,
take care not to damage the
intake manifold and the
sealing surfaces.
2). Remove the intake manifold.
3). If the intake manifold is intended to

remain detached for a long time, seal
the opening with adhesive tapes to
prevent debris entering the intake
system.

1. Clean and check the intake manifold
materials must not enter the
air inlet.
1). Use the gasket scraper and clean
cleaning cloth to clean all the intake
manifold sealing surfaces.
2). Clean the sealing surfaces of the

cylinder head at the intake manifold
seal.

3). Check the intake manifold for any

crack or other damage.
Note: check the intake manifold for
any oil or debris from the
failed air system and check
the cylinder head for any oil or
debris.
Fitting
1. Fit the two-piece manifold
1). Before continuing the fitting, remove
the adhesive tapes from the manifold
opening.
2). Fit the lower half of the intake
manifold with a new gasket. Before
fitting, apply a thin layer of thread
sealant on the bolts.
3). Fit the upper half of the intake
manifold with a new gasket.
Note: there is a cap bolt (1) in the
manifold. Fit and pre-tighten
the cap bolt by hands first.
Before fitting, apply a thin
layer of thread sealant on the
bolt.
4). Fit the remaining bolts on the upper
half of the intake manifold.
Note: In this case, fit and pre-tighten
the mounting bolts by hands.
Before fitting, apply a thin
layer of thread sealant on the
bolts.
5). Tighten all the bolts of the intake
manifold to the correct torque.
Tightening torque Intake manifold
cover 24N·m
Note: if the cap bolt is lost or
breaks, drill a hole with a
diameter of 9.5mm in the tread
of the cap bolt hole (2) in the
upper half of the intake
manifold. The cap bolt can be
replaced with the standard
M8×1.25×30mm bolt.
6). Before fitting, apply a thin layer of
thread sealant on the bolts. Take
care not to let the sealant drop in the
intake manifold.

2. Fit the one-piece manifold

Note: before continuing fitting,
remove the adhesive tapes
from the manifold opening.
1). Apply RTV sealant to the intake
manifold according to the routing
diagram.
Note: within 10 minutes after
sealant application, fit the
intake manifold cover gear
chamber, otherwise, the
sealant cannot provide
correct sealing. After fitting,
dry the sealant for 30 minutes,
and then run the engine.
2). Fit the intake manifold and the
mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting
bolts.
3. Fit the intake manifold
temperature/pressure sensor
4. Fit the cold start auxiliary device

Refer to “Replacement of the cold starter”

joint”
Note: For some engines, the intake
pipe joint is a part of the
intake manifold (irremovable).

6. Fit the high-pressure fuel rail

high-pressure fuel rail”
7. Fit the injector fuel feed pipeline

Refer to “Replacement of the injector fuel
feed pipe”
8. Fit the air-air intercooler pipe
9. Remove the battery
leakage

VI. Replacement of Cold start auxiliary device

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, sealant

Removal
2. Remove the cuboid cold start auxiliary device
1). Remove four bolts that connect the

air jumper pipe joint and the heater.
2). Remove the intake heater core and
gasket.
Note: If it is required to remove the

cold start auxiliary
device/intake heater core,
regardless of how long it is
intended to remain detached,
seal the hole with adhesive
tapes to prevent debris from
entering the intake pipe.
Replacement of Cold start auxiliary device 457

3. Remove the cylindrical cold start

auxiliary device
1). Remove the power supply terminal,
spacer block/spacer sleeve and
washer.
2). Remove the fixing bolts from the
intake manifold.
3). Remove the cylindrical intake
manifold heater element assembly
from the intake manifold.

1. Check the cuboid cold start auxiliary
device
1). Clean the grille heater sealing
surfaces (1 and 2).
2). Clean the intake cover sealing
surfaces
3). Clean the intake pipe joint sealing
surfaces.
materials must not enter the
air inlet.
4). Check the intake manifold heater

cable and grille for any corrosion or
damage.
the heater.
Fitting
1. Fit the cuboid cold start auxiliary
device
1). Remove all the adhesive tapes from
the intake manifold.
2). Fit new gasket, intake manifold
heater and intake joint.
3). Fit and tighten four bolts.
4). If equipped, fit the separate black
(ground) heater lead.
458 Replacement of Cold start auxiliary device

2. Fit the cylindrical cold start auxiliary

device
1). Fit the air heater in the intake
manifold.
2). Rotate the cold start auxiliary device
to align the power supply terminal
with the machining hole at the top of
the intake manifold.
3). Pass the power supply terminal,
spacer block/spacer sleeve and
washer through the intake manifold
hole and fit them in the heater
element.
4). Tighten the power supply terminal in
the cold start auxiliary device.
5). Fit and tighten the fixing bolts.
6). Fit the intake manifold heater wire to
the terminal.
3. Fit the intake pipe joint adapter
adapter”
Replacement of Cold start auxiliary device 459

VII. Replacement of intake pipe joint

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials

Removal

2. Remove the air-air intercooler pipe
1). Remove the air-air intercooler pipe
between the intake joint adapter and
the air-air intercooler outlet.
3. Remove the two-piece intake joint

1). Remove the V-clamp that secures
the intake joint adapter and the
intake joint.
2). Remove the intake pipe joint adapter
and the O-ring.

1. Clean and check the intake joint
1). Clean the intake joint adapter with
solvent and dry it with compressed
air.
460 Replacement of intake pipe joint

2). Check the intake joint adapter, seal

and clamp for damage, scratch,
crack, hole or wear.
3). Check the sealing surfaces for
damage.
4). Check the O-ring for cut or wear.
5). Check the V-clamp for damage or
overstretch.
Note: if necessary, replace the parts
involved.
Fitting
1). Fit the O-ring into the groove of the
intake pipe joint adapter.
Note: Fit the intake joint adapter to
ensure the O-ring remaining
in the groove.
2). Fit and tighten the V-clamp.
2. Fit the air jumper pipe

Refer to “Replacement of the air jumper
pipe”

4. Run the engine and check for air
leakage
Replacement of intake pipe joint 461

VIII. Replacement of dry exhaust manifold

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials
Auxiliary materials Sealant, cleaning cloth, oil

Removal
2. Remove the turbocharger

turbocharger”
3. Remove the exhaust manifold

1). If equipped, remove the locking
plates of the exhaust manifold
mounting bolts.
2). Remove the mounting bolts and
spacer sleeve of the exhaust
manifold.
3). Remove the exhaust manifold.
462 Replacement of dry exhaust manifold


1. Clean and check the exhaust manifold
1). Use the gasket scraper and steel
brush to clean the sealing surfaces of
the cylinder head and exhaust
manifold.
Note: take action to prevent any
debris from entering the
cylinder head.
2). Clean the exhaust manifold with

steam.
Note: check the cylinder head boss
and turbocharger mounting
studs for damage. If
necessary, service or replace
the parts involved.
Note: if the exhaust manifold is
damaged, check for intake
leakage. The intake leakage
may cause progressive
damage to the exhaust
manifold.
4). Use the high-precision ruler or the

equivalents to measure the flatness
of the manifold mounting surface.
Place the ruler against the edge of
each port and measure the flatness
with a feeler gauge.
Standard dimension Min. value:
0.20mm
Note: if the flatness value of any
port exceeds the technical
specification, replace the
exhaust manifold.
5). Check the gasket surfaces for any

gouge mark, scratch or burn.
6). If equipped, check the two-piece
sealing joint for exhaust leakage.
Note: if there is exhaust leakage at
the joint, replace the joints at
both sides of the exhaust
manifold.
Replacement of dry exhaust manifold 463

Fitting
1. Fit the exhaust manifold
1). Apply the high temperature
anti-caking compound to the threads
of the exhaust manifold bolts.
2). Fit the exhaust manifold, new gasket
and spacer sleeve.
3). Tighten the bolts in the sequence
shown in the figure.
Note: in order to align the exhaust

manifolds, two bolt channels
have a smaller diameter than
others. The positions vary
with the manifold
configuration. Start with the
bolts in the smaller oil ducts
first, and then tighten the
remaining bolts in the
manifold in the sequence from
the inside to outside.
4). Tighten the mounting bolts of the
exhaust manifold.
5). Fit new locking plates (if equipped).
2. Fit the turbocharger
turbocharger”

leakage
464 Replacement of dry exhaust manifold

IX. Replacement of turbocharger

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials
Special tools Feeler gauge
Testing tools Torque wrench(10-100N·m), depth dial gauge
Auxiliary materials Sealant, cleaning cloth

Removal
1. Initial checking
1). Remove the intake pipe and intake
joint from the turbocharger.
2). Check the impeller blade of the
turbocharger compressor for
damage.
the turbocharger. Refer to the
fitting and removal steps. If
the compressor impeller is
damaged, check the intake
pipe and filter element for
damage.
3). Remove the exhaust pipe from the

turbocharger.
4). Check the turbine wheel for damage.
the turbocharger.
Replacement of turbocharger 465

5). Check the exhaust bypass valve.

6). Check the lever pin.
Note: if the lever pin is bent or
over-worn, replace the
turbocharger.
7). Check the valve and valve seat for

any crack or corrosion.
Note: For some turbocharger, the
valve and valve seat can only
be checked with the turbine
exhaust outlet cover removed.
8). If the turbine exhaust outlet cover is
removed, the gasket must be
replaced before refitting.
Note: if the valve or valve seat is
damaged or corroded
severely, replace the
turbocharger.
9). Push the lever by hands to check

that the lever shaft rotates freely
without clamping stagnation.
10). Check for excessive movement
between the shaft and bushing.
Note: if the shaft gets stuck or the
amount of movement between
the shaft and bushing is
excessive, replace the
turbocharger.
11). Use a depth dial gauge and push the

rotor assembly away from the dial
gauge.
12). Set the dial gauge to 0.
466 Replacement of turbocharger

13). Push the rotor assembly to the dial

gauge and record the reading.
14). Axial clearance between HX40, H1E,
HY30W, HX35W and HY35W
Standard dimension 0.038-0.093mm
15). HX27/25W-axial clearance.
Note: if the clearance does not
comply with technical
specification, replace the
turbocharger.
16). Use the line feeler gauge to measure

the clearance between the
compressor impeller and housing.
Gently push the compressor impeller
to the compressor housing and the
feeler gauge and record the reading.
17). With the feeler gauge remaining at

the same position, gently push the
compressor impeller away from the
compressor housing and measure
the clearance between them.
18). The radial clearance of the bearing
can be obtained by subtracting the
smaller clearance from the larger
one.
19). HX27/25W-axial clearance.
20). HX35W and HY35W.
Note: if the radial clearance of the
bearing does not comply with
the technical specification,
replace the turbocharger.

21). Check if there is any oil on the air

inlet and outlet of the turbocharger
compressor.
Note: if there is oil at both the air
inlet and outlet of the
compressor, check the
turbocharger upstream to find
the leak sources. If
turbocharger failure or oil
entering the air-air intercooler
system once occurs, check
and clean the air-air
intercooler system.
22). If there is large amount of deposit or

oil dirt only at the exhaust side, fit the
intake pipe and air-air intercooler
pipe to check the air resistance
indicator.
23). Check the intake resistance.
Note: if there is no intake
resistance, replace the
turbocharger.
2. Leakage test
1). Add 1 unit of fluorescent tracer per
38L engine oil.
2). Run the engine at low idle speed for
10 min.
3). Turn the engine off.

4). Cool the turbocharger.
5). Remove the exhaust pipe from the
turbine housing.

6). Use the black light lamp with high

luminous intensity to check the
turbine outlet for any leakage. Yellow
light indicates oil leak. Dark blue light
means that there is fuel in the oil.
7). If there is oil on the turbine housing,

remove the oil return pipe and check
for blockage.
8). Remove any blockage.
9). Fit the oil return pipe and a new
O-ring into the engine cylinder block.
10). If the oil return pipe has no blockage,

remove the turbocharger.
11). Use the black light lamp with high

luminous intensity to check the
turbine inlet for any leakage.
Note: yellow flash light indicates
engine oil leakage.
12). If yellow light is found, re-fit and
return the turbocharger for repair.
There is no need for cleaning if there
is a thin layer of oil in the turbine
housing and on the turbine, as this oil
will be burnt off during engine
operation. Clear the oil sludge in the
turbine housing with a clean cleaning
cloth before fitting.
Note: if there no yellow flash light at
the turbine inlet, replace the
turbocharger.

13). Fit the exhaust pipe onto the

turbocharger turbine outlet.
14). Fit the intake pipe onto the
turbocharger compressor inlet.
4. Remove the turbocharger
1). Disconnect the air-air intercooler
hose.
2). Remove the oil feed pipe from the

turbocharger.
turbocharger oil feed pipe”.
3). Remove the oil return pipe from the

turbocharger.
turbocharger oil return pipe”.
4). Remove the exhaust manifold

Refer to “Replacement of exhaust
manifold”

5). Remove the intake pipe joint of the

turbocharger compressor.
6). Remove the elbow, V-clamp and
O-ring from the turbocharger
compressor outlet.
7). Remove 4 mounting nuts from the
turbocharger.
8). Remove the turbocharger and gasket
and discard the latter.
Note: do not reuse the turbocharger
mounting gasket.

1. Clean and check the turbocharger
1). Clean the surfaces of the intake
manifold gasket
2). Check the sealing surfaces of the
turbocharger and exhaust manifold
and the mounting studs for crack and
damage.
Note: if there is crack on the
surfaces of the mounting
flange, replace the
turbocharger.
3). Remove the carbon deposit and seal

material from the surfaces (1, 2 and
3).
4). Clean the outside of the turbocharger
with solvent or steam.
6). Check the turbine and compressor

housings.
Note: if there is crack through the
outside wall, replace the
turbocharger. The air-air
intercooler failure may cause
damage to the turbine
housing. If the turbine
housing is damaged, check
the air-air intercooler.

Note: if turbocharger failure or oil

entering the air-air intercooler
system once occurs, check
and clean the air-air
intercooler system.
Fitting
1. Fit the turbocharger
1). Apply a layer of high temperature
anti-caking compound on the
mounting studs of the turbocharger.
2). Use a new gasket to fit the
turbocharger.
Note: the new gasket must be the
same as the removed one.
Using wrong gasket may
cause damage to the
turbocharger. Do not reuse
the turbocharger mounting
gasket.
3). Fit and tighten four mounting studs.
Note: the torque is given based on
the fact that the anti-seize
lubricant is used for
lubrication.
4). Fit the elbow, V-clamp and new

O-ring to the turbocharger
compressor exhaust outlet (if
applicable).
5). Tighten the clamps.

6). If necessary, rotate the compressor

housing to assemble the intake pipe.
Note: perform necessary
adjustment with the snap ring
or by means of releasing the
V-clamp. Ensure that the snap
ring is seated and/or the
V-clamp is tightened after the
adjustment is completed
7). Fit the intake pipe and intake joint
and tighten the clamps.
8). Fit the exhaust pipe and tighten the
clamps.
9). Fit and tighten the turbocharger oil

return pipe.
turbocharger oil return pipe”.
10). Add60 to 90cc clean 15W-40 engine

oil into the turbocharger oil feed pipe
joint to lubricate the bearing.
11). Rotate the turbine wheel to allow the
oil to flow into the bearing seat.
12). Fit the air-air intercooler pipe.
13). Fit and tighten the turbocharger oil

feed pipe.
turbocharger oil feed pipe”
leakage

X. Replacement of turbocharger oil return pipe

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials
Common tools Wrench
Auxiliary materials Oil, cleaning cloth, sealant

Removal
1. Initial checking
1). Check the pipeline for oil leakage or
damage.
Note: if necessary, perform service
or replacement.
3. Remove the turbocharger oil return

pipe
1). Clean the area around the position
where the return pipe is inserted into
the cylinder block with a clean
cleaning cloth.
2). Remove two bolts that secure the
return pipe and the turbocharger.
3). Remove the return pipe from the
cylinder block.
474 Replacement of turbocharger oil return pipe


1. Clean and check the turbocharger oil
return pipe
1). Clean the sealing surfaces of the
gaskets on the return pipe and the
turbocharger.
2). Clean the O-ring seat hole in the

cylinder block, and be careful to
ensure that no dirt or debris enters
the cylinder block.
3). Clean the turbocharger oil return pipe
with solvent and dry it with
compressed air.
4). Check the return pipe for oil coking or
blockage.
5). If there is any oil coking or blockage

in the return pipe, clean it.
6). Check the return pipe for any crack,
wear or other damages.
the return pipe.
7). Check the return pipe O-ring for any
crack, wear or corrosion.
Note: if necessary, replace it.
Fitting
1. Fit the turbocharger oil return pipe
1). Apply a thin layer of clean oil to the
return pipe O-ring.
2). Push the return pipe into the boss so
that two O-rings are inserted into the
holes completely.
3). Fit a new gasket on the return pipe.
4). Fit and tighten the mounting bolts of
the return pipe.
Replacement of turbocharger oil return pipe 475


leakage
476 Replacement of turbocharger oil return pipe

XI. Replacement of turbocharger oil feed pipe

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials
Auxiliary materials Oil, cleaning cloth

Removal
1. Initial checking
1). Check the turbocharger oil feed pipe
for any oil leakage or damage.
Note: if necessary, replace it.
2. Remove the turbocharger oil feed pipe

1). Remove the oil feed pipe from the
turbocharger bearing housing and oil
filter head.
Replacement of turbocharger oil feed pipe 477

Checking
Note: use wrench to secure the pipe
joint below the feed pipe on
the turbocharger bearing
housing and the oil filter head.
This can prevent the pipe joint
from loosening.
1). Clean the feed pipe with a clean and
lint-free cleaning cloth.
2). Take action to prevent the dirt and
debris from entering the feed pipe.
3). Check the pipeline for any crack,
wear or damage.
Note: discard the used copper
sealing washer or O-ring.
Fitting
1. Fit the turbocharger oil feed pipe
1). Fill the turbocharger oil inlet with
clean 15W-40 oil.
2). Fit the feed pipe onto the
turbocharger bearing housing and oil
filter head and use the new copper
sealing washer or O-ring.
Note: in order to reduce the risk of
oil pipe scratch, keep a
minimum distance of 10mm
between the feed pipe and
turbine chamber or exhaust
manifold. Keep a minimum
distance of 5mm between the
oil feed pipe and other
components.
3). Tighten both ends of the oil feed pipe
to the final torque.

leakage
478 Replacement of turbocharger oil feed pipe

XII. Exhaust bypass valve actuator of the turbocharger

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials

Removal
1. Initial checking
1). Check the integral exhaust bypass

valve actuator hose for any crack or
hole.
the hose.
2). Check the exhaust bypass valve

mounting bracket, actuator lever and
control lever for any damage. If the
exhaust bypass valve mounting
bracket, actuator lever or control
lever is bent, replace them.
Note: the bend of the exhaust
bypass valve mounting
bracket, actuator lever or
control lever may cause
improper operation.
Exhaust bypass valve actuator of the turbocharger 479

2. Remove the exhaust bypass valve actuator

of the turbocharger
Note: if necessary, perform the leakage
test for the exhaust bypass valve
actuator before removal.
1). Record the direction of the hose joint of the

supercharging diaphragm capsule relative
to the mounting bracket before removal.
2). Remove the fixing clamps from the control

lever.
3). Disconnect the integral supercharging pipe
from the diaphragm capsule of the exhaust
bypass valve.
Note: take care not to bend the control
lever
4). Remove the air regulator with a pressure
gauge.
5). Disconnect the actuator lever end of the
supercharging diaphragm capsule from the
control lever of the turbocharger exhaust
bypass valve.
Note: in order to perform this operation,
slowly add the pressure regulated
air to the supercharging diaphragm
capsule until the control lever
moves.
6). Disconnect the control lever from the lever

pin of the turbocharger exhaust bypass
valve.
480 Exhaust bypass valve actuator of the turbocharger

Note: if the diaphragm of the

supercharging diaphragm capsule
breaks and cannot withstand the
air pressure, pull the control lever
out by hand to overcome the
tension of the supercharging
diaphragm capsule spring, in order
to remove the control lever from
the lever pin of the turbocharger
exhaust bypass valve.
7). Loosen the mounting bolts of the
supercharging diaphragm capsule and
disconnect the air feed hose，then remove
the assembly from the mounting bracket.
3. leakage test
Note: For some applications, in order to
test the exhaust bypass valve
actuator, the turbocharger must be
removed.
1). Disconnect the integral supercharging pipe

from the diaphragm capsule of the exhaust
bypass valve.
2). Connect the pressure source of the
pressure regulated clean air and the
pressure gauge to the diaphragm capsule.
3). Apply pressure of 200kpa to check the
movement of the actuator linkage.
Note: for normal diaphragm capsule of
the exhaust bypass valve, the
sound of air flow (i.e. the air-leak
noise) should not be heard.
4). If the actuator linkage shows no sign of

movement, remove the fixing clamps of the
actuator linkage and disconnect the
actuator linkage from the turbocharger
exhaust bypass valve pin.
5). Apply air pressure to the diaphragm
capsule of the exhaust bypass valve again
to check the movement of the actuator
linkage. If no movement occurs, replace
the exhaust bypass valve actuator.
6). If the exhaust bypass valve actuator can
move, move the exhaust bypass valve
lever back and forth to feel if it can move
smoothly and work normally.

7). If the exhaust bypass valve lever

cannot move freely or is limited,
spray the de-rusting oil to the joint of
the exhaust bypass valve lever and
move the lever back and forth
allowing it work freely.
Note: if the lever cannot move
freely, replace the
turbocharger.
8). If the lever can move freely and work

smoothly, re-connect the actuator
lever and check its movement with
the air pressure again.
Fitting
1. Fit the exhaust bypass valve actuator
of the turbocharger
1). For some applications, in order to fit
the new exhaust bypass valve
actuator, the turbocharger must be
removed.
2). Fit the end linkage into the control

lever pin of the turbocharger exhaust
bypass valve. When the ridge line of
the spacer ring can be seen, push
the turbocharger exhaust bypass
valve lever to the actuator lever and
place the actuator flat in the
mounting bracket.
Note: do not fit two studs into the
mounting holes in this case.

3). Remove the actuator assembly from

the turbocharger, and then rotate the
end linkage and re-assemble the
actuator to adjust the length of the
actuator assembly until the bottom of
the actuator is just mounted above
the bracket mounting studs with a
clearance of less than 0.5mm, which
indicates a right set.
4). Fit the mounting studs of the actuator

into the bracket holes.
5). Re-fit the end linkage to the
crankshaft pin. Fit the fixing clamps
of the control lever.
6). Tighten the mounting nuts to the right
torque stated in the technical
specification.
7). Tighten the check nuts of the control

lever to the end linkage.
8). Cut the strap and remove the strap
and gasket. Discard the strap.
Continue turning the check nuts in
the same direction and tighten them
to the end linkage.
9). Re-connect the air feed hose to the

actuator with the new hose clamp.


leakage

XIII. Replacement of exhaust catalytic converter

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials
Common tools Philips screwdrivers, socket，slip joint pliers
Auxiliary materials Urea

Removal
2. Remove the exhaust temperature

sensor
Refer to “Removal and refitting of the
inlet/outlet exhaust temperature sensor”
Replacement of exhaust catalytic converter 485

3. Remove the exhaust catalytic

converter
1). Disconnect the OME exhaust joint.
2). Lower the exhaust catalytic converter
from the bottom of the
vehicle/engine.
Checking
Warning: wear the protective
gloves, dust mask and
protective goggles when
handling the urea, as the
urea contains vanadium
pentoxide. Avoid long
time of skin exposure to
the urea.
1. Check the exhaust catalytic converter
1). Check for peeling paint in the urea,
excessive corrosion, notch or crack.
2). Check the exhaust catalytic
converter for solution leakage.
Fitting
1. Fit the exhaust catalytic converter
Note: check if the correct catalytic
converter part number is
selected.
1). Connect the outlet mark “INLET”
assisting in assembling the exhaust
catalytic converter to the engine
outlet.
2). Lift the catalytic converter in place
and connect the OME exhaust pipe
and the fixing clamps.
3). Fit and connect the exhaust
temperature sensor.
4). Check all the clamps and pipe joints
of the exhaust system.
5). Start the engine and check the
system for any leakage.
operation.
486 Replacement of exhaust catalytic converter

XIV. Replacement of nozzle urea feed pipe

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials

Removal
1. Tilt the cab
2. Remove the urea feed pipe of the urea

nozzle
1). Remove the quick joint on the
charging controller end of the nozzle
urea feed pipe.
2). Remove the urea feed pipe.
Checking
1. Check the urea feed pipe
1). Check the appearance of the urea
feed pipe for break or aging.
2). Check the quick joint of the urea feed
pipe for damage.
Replacement of nozzle urea feed pipe 487

Fitting
1. Fit the urea feed pipe
1). Fit the quick joint on the charging
controller end of the urea feed pipe.
2). Fit the quick joint on the urea nozzle

end of the urea feed pipe
2. Lower the cab
operation.
488 Replacement of nozzle urea feed pipe

XV. Replacement of urea discharge pipe

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials

Removal
1. Disconnect the urea tank end of the

urea discharge pipe
1). Loosen the quick joint and
disconnect the discharge pipe.
2. Disconnect the charging controller

end of the urea discharge pipe
disconnect the discharge pipe.
Replacement of urea discharge pipe 489

Checking
1. Check the urea discharge pipe
discharge pipe for break or aging.
2). Check the quick joint of the urea
discharge pipe for damage.
Fitting
1. Fit the urea tank
controller end of the urea discharge
pipe
2). Fit the quick joint on the urea tank

operation.
490 Replacement of urea discharge pipe

XVI. Replacement of urea return pipe

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials

Removal
1. Disconnect the urea tank end of the

urea return pipe
disconnect the return pipe.
2. Disconnect the charging controller

disconnect the return pipe.
Replacement of urea return pipe 491

Checking
1. Check the urea feed pipe
return pipe for break or aging.
2). Check the quick joint of the urea
return pipe for damage.
Fitting
1. Fit the urea return pipe
controller end of the urea return
pipe.
2). Fit the quick joint on the urea tank

end of the urea return pipe.
operation.
492 Replacement of urea return pipe

XVII. Replacement of urea level sensor

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials

Removal
1. Disconnect the quick joints of the urea

drain and return pipes and plug the
pipe ports.
Refer to “Replacement of the urea
discharge and return pipes”
2. Disconnect the urea heating hose

1). Loosen the clamps and disconnect
the hose
Replacement of urea level sensor 493

3. Remove the urea level sensor

Checking
1. Check the urea level sensor
1). Check the floater of the level sensor
for free up and down movement.
Fitting
1. Fit the urea level sensor
2. Fit the drain and return pipes
3. Fit the heating hose

1). Tighten the hose clamps
operation
494 Replacement of urea level sensor

XVIII. Replacement of urea filter

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials

Removal
1. Remove the urea level sensor and

filter assembly
Refer to “Replacement of the urea level
sensor”
2. Remove the urea filter
Replacement of urea filter 495

Checking
1. Check the urea filter assembly
1). Check the filter for blockage, aging or
break.
Refitting
1. Fit the urea filter
2. Fit the urea filter and urea level sensor

assembly
Refer to “Replacement of the urea level
sensor”
operation
496 Replacement of urea filter

XIX. Replacement of air/oil filter

Tools and auxiliary

Name & Model
materials

Removal
1. Remove the air/oil filter assembly

1). Remove the air/oil filter assembly
following the manufacturer’s
instructions.
Fitting
1. Fit the air/oil filter assembly
1). Apply a thin layer of clean 15W-40 oil
on the surfaces of the oil filter gasket.
Replacement of air/oil filter 497

2). Tighten the air/oil filter assembly to

the torque specified by the
manufacturer.
operation
498 Replacement of air/oil filter

XX. Replacement of urea tank

Tools &auxiliary Materials Name &model

Removal
1. Drain the urea
2. Remove the urea level sensor

Refer to “Replacement of urea level
sensor assembly”
3. Remove the urea reservoir

1). Loosen 2 hold-down bolts
2). Remove the urea reservoir
Check
1. Check the urea reservoir
1). Check the urea reservoirfor aging,
cracking or deformation. If any,
replace the urea reservoir.
Replacement of urea tank 499

Refitting
1. Fit the urea reservoir

1). Place theurea reservoiron the
bracket
2). Screw the urea reservoircover strip
bolts.
2. Fit the urea level sensor assembly
Refer to “Replacement of urea level
sensor”
3. Add the urea
4. Run the engine to check it for normal
operation
500 Replacement of urea tank

Cooling system
I. General
(i) Overview of cooling system
Flow schematics of cooling system
1. Coolant inlet 8. By-pass channel of coolant

2. Water pump impeller 9. Coolant flow that returns to the radiator
3. Coolant flows through the oil cooler 10. Bypass is opened
4. Coolant flow that flows through the cylinder 11. Coolant bypass in the cylinder head
5. Coolant flow from cylinder block to cylinder head 12. Coolant flow that flows to the water pump inlet
6. Coolant flow between cylinders
7. Coolant flow that flows to the thermostat housing
Overview
Cooling system is designed to keep a
specified operating temperature for the
engine. The coolant flows through the water
channel between cylinder block and cylinder
head, thus adsorbing part of heat from the
engine. The heat loss of coolant occurs when
the engine coolant flows through the radiator.
General 501
Water pump
For the water pump, the belt-driven and centrifugal
pump, inlet and by-pass pipe serves as a part of the
cylinder block. It is in front end of the engine and can
only be replaced as an assembly.
In view of design similarities for water pumps,
especially for pumps in the same series of engines, it
is supposed to check if the new pump is appropriate
before fitting.
The main difference of current water pumps lies in the
dimension of drive pulley. Improper water pump may
lead to reduced flow velocity of coolant, which results
in damage due to overheating.
Thermostat
Thermostat is designed to control the engine
temperature. It is located in the cylinder head in front
end of the engine. Moreover, the opening/closings
controlled by the wax oil motor.
Thermostat has two check valve balls; the bleeding
can be operated by the thermostat when they are
closed, which should be carried out when filling the
cooling system.
When the coolant temperature is lower than the range
of operating temperature, the engine coolant will flow
to the water pump inlet through the by-pass channel.
When the coolant temperature is within the range, the
thermostat will open to close the by-pass channel,
which leads to coolant flowing to the radiator.
Coolant heater
The optional coolant heater can be used when the
engine runs in cold climate condition. A dedicated port
is spared at the position near to the oil cooler in the
cylinder block.
Radiator pressure cap

In this cooling system, a pressure cap is used to
prevent coolant from boiling. For information about the
proper radiator pressure cover suitable for your
application, see “Technical specifications for cooling
system”.
Inappropriate pressure cap or fault may lead to
coolant loss or engine overheating.
502 General
Radiator
The air intake by the fan flows through the
radiating fin of radiator to cool the coolant that
flows through the radiator. Fragments in
environment, such as paper debris, wheat
straw, fluff and dust, may be stuck in the
radiating fin and thus restrain the airflow,
which results in reduced cooling performance
of radiator.
Driving belt (cooling fan, water pump and

generator)
The driving belt, often called as serpentine
belt, is designed as an 8-ribbed belt, which is
used to drive various accessories in front end
of engine. Different configurations are set for
different applications. It is supposed to draw
an arrangement diagram for cooling fan belt
as shown in the figure before removing it in
order to ensure the correct installing position
of the cooling fan belt. Normally, the cooling
fan belt consists of the following components
(not all):
1). Crankshaft pulley/shock absorber
2). Fan belt pulley
3). Water pump pulley
4). Generator pulley
5). Refrigerant compressor pulley
6). Belt tensioner pulley
7). Idler pulley (not shown in the figure)
Fan belt tensioner

The automatic fan belt tensioner is designed
to keep an appropriate tensity for the belt. It
uses an internal spring to keep the appropriate
tensity. In addition, the fitting position of fan
belt tensioner maybe different according to
configurations of front driving accessories.
The tensioning direction of tensioner depends
on the direction along which the spring latch
bends. Turn the tensioner towards the elastic
tightener in order to relieve the tensity of belt.
General 503
Fan hub
Fan hub is fitted in the front end of the engine,
which is used to support cooling fan and
driving belt. The fan hub is a typical mounting
part made of cast iron for holding
pulley/bearing assembly. Types and locations
of fan hubs depend on configurations of front
driving accessories.
Cooling fan clutch

In some applications, one type of cooling fan
clutch is introduced to control the running of
the cooling fan. All fan clutches can be
controlled by the engine control module
(ECM) which is used to monitor the
temperatures of coolant and intake manifolds
in order to determine the time when the fan is
engaged. Additional sensors are introduced
for some types of cooling fans and they are
monitored by ECM in order to control the fan
(e.g. A/C pressure and transmission
temperature). Here are several different types
of fan clutches:
• Air engaged
• Air disengaged
• Electric
• Viscous
• On-off
ECM can use the signal of 0VDC - 12-VDC to
engage the fan clutch. To select accurate start
logic, see the section “Characteristics and
Parameters” under INSITETM. For further
information about fault diagnosis and
troubleshooting, see the service manual
provided by the equipment manufacturer.
Some fans use silicone oil fan actuating

media. This fan can be actuated by a built-in
sensor for monitoring the air temperature.
If the air temperature is within the specified
range, the temperature sensor will move
actuator depending on the temperature set of
the used sensor, and then it will engage the
fan actuating media and increase fan speed
via viscous liquid.
504 General
Cooling fan
Normally, cooling fan is fitted in front end of
the engine and driven by the driving belt.
According to applications, some cooling fans
may be fitted outside the engine, which is
favorable for the side-mounted radiator.
Note: It is prohibited to run the
engine equipped with no
thermostat. If there is no
thermostat, coolant will not
flow into the radiator causing
engine overheating.
Flow of cooling system

Cylinder block and water pump
Engine coolant is pumped into an integral water pump cavity which is installed in the cylinder block
via a water/coolant inlet joint. The water pump fitted on the cylinder block is used to pressurize the
coolant under the driving by a belt before coolant flowing into cylinder block water jacket. The
engine coolant flows around the oil cooler plate and then flow into the water jacket cavity around the
cylinder; it flows around the cylinder but not between the internal cylinder holes. The cylinder block
is of Siamese bore design, which means the coolant does not flow around every internal cylinder
hole; each internal cylinder hole is casted together to strengthen the cylinder block. The coolant
from the water jacket continues flowing through holes around and flowing between combustion
surface and cylinder head in each cylinder.
Cylinder head and sealing gasket
Coolant from the cylinder block flows into the cylinder head through the dip hatch in the cylinder
head sealing gasket. The dip hatch is used to control the coolant flowing from cylinder block to
cylinder head.
Coolant continues to flow in the area of valve guide and injector and flow into the integral thermostat
though the OEM port before it flows to the exhaust side of cylinder head.
Thermostat bypass
Before the opening temperature of thermostat is available in the engine, open the by-pass port to
ensure that the engine coolant returns to the inlet side of water pump. The engine coolant may only
flow around the engine on a constant cycling basis before the thermostat opens. Once the opening
temperature of thermostat is available in the engine, the thermostat opens to allow the engine
coolant flow into the radiator.
(ii) Technical parameters of cooling system
Main structural parameters of cooling system
KD1, KD2, KD3 KD4, KD5, KD6
Type of structure Aluminum-soldered ribbon-tubular core structure
Radiator Model 1301010-KD100 1301010-KC400
Core dimensions 608×600×40 608×650×40
Type of structure Plastic fixing fan with variable torsional angle
Fan Engine power 185PS 210PS
assembly Fan model 1308010-KD100 1308Z66A-001
Fan diameter 580mm 600mm
General 505
Expansion Capacity 5.2L

tank Model 1311010-KC100
Opening pressure 50kPa
Pressure cap
Vacuum opening pressure -10kPa
Technical specifications of cooling system
Items Metric
Coolant volume 26-28 L
Marked and adjusted thermostat operating range 82-92°C
Max. permissible operating temperature —types of vehicles 100°C
Recommended min. operating temperature 71°C
Recommended min. pressure of pressure cap 50kPa
506 General
II. Replacement of water inlet joint

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials
Common tools Wrench

Preparation steps
3. Remove the driving belt of cooling fan

Refer to “Replacement of driving belt”
Replacement of water inlet joint 507

4. Remove the fan belt tensioner

Refer to “Replacement of belt tensioner”
Note: Some belt tensioners are
fitted on water outlet joints.
5. Remove the lower hoses of radiator

6. Disconnect all coolant hoses
7. Remove the generator and the

mounting bracket of generator
8. Remove the water inlet joint

1). Remove the bolts, water inlet joint,
sealing gasket and rectangular seal
ring.
508 Replacement of water inlet joint


1. Clean and check the water inlet joint
Note: If the water inlet joint is to be
placed, it may be necessary to
disconnect the coolant pipe
joint from the old water inlet
joint and then connect it to a
new water inlet joint.
1). Clean the water inlet joint and the
mounting surface of cylinder block
2). Check the water inlet joint for
damage.
3). If any damage occurs, replace the
water inlet joint.
Refitting
1. Fit the water inlet pip
1). Fit the bolts, water inlet joint, sealing
gasket and rectangular seal ring.
2). Align the rolling pin to the front end of
the cylinder block, and then tighten
the bolts.
Tightening torque M1043N·m
M1280N·m
2. Fit the fan belt tensioner

Refer to “Replacement of fan belt
tensioner”
3. Connect all coolant hoses
4. Connect the lower hoses of radiator.
5. Fit the generator and the mounting

brackets of generator
Replacement of water inlet joint 509

6. Fit the driving belt of cooling fan

Refer to “Replacement of fan belt”
7. Fill the cooling system

510 Replacement of water inlet joint

III. Replacement of coolant heater

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials

Removal
3. Remove the coolant heater (fitted with

flanges)
1). Disconnect the cylinder block heater
cable.
Replacement of coolant heater 511

2). For the coolant heater with flanges,

remove the remaining two fixing bolts
from the cylinder block heater.
3). Remove the coolant heater from the
cylinder block.
4. Remove the coolant heater (with

thread)
1). For the coolant heater with thread,
Loosen the coolant heater from the
cylinder block.
2). Remove the coolant heater from the
cylinder block.

1. Clean and check the coolant heater
1). Clean the coolant heater port

thoroughly with a clean cleaning
cloth.
2). Ensure that there is no burr, metal
sheet or sharp edge that may scratch
the O-ring.
512 Replacement of coolant heater

3). Check the coolant heater

components for damage.
Note: For the coolant heater fitted
with flanges, check the O-ring
for damage. If any, replace the
O-ring.
Warning: Do not touch the power

lead or components
during test in order to
reduce the personal injury
due to electric shock.
4). Measure the resistance of coolant
heater
Standard value 18.2~21.1Ω
Refitting
1. Fit the coolant heater (fitted with
flanges)
1). For the coolant heater fitted with
flanges, lubricate the O-ring of new
heater with clean engine oil l5W-40.
2). Fit the coolant heater and fixing

bolts.
Replacement of coolant heater 513

2. Fit the coolant heater (with thread)

1). For the coolant heater with thread,
apply pipe sealant on the thread.
2). Fit the coolant heater in the cylinder
block and tighten it.
3). Insert the power line into the slot and

align the test pin to the slot carefully,
and then tighten the fixing nuts with
hands.
Note: Do not power up the core until
the filling of the cooling
system is completed and the
thermostat opens after the
engine runs for enough time
to bleed air.
3. Fill the engine coolant

6. Power up the heating core to check it
for proper operation.
514 Replacement of coolant heater

IV. Service of water pump

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials
Auxiliary materials Rubber pot, hair brush and sealant

Removal
3. Remove the driving belt

4. If necessary, remove the fan belt

tensioner
Refer to “Replacement of belt tensioner”
Service of water pump 515

5. If necessary, remove the fan air

deflector assembly
Refer to “Replacement of fan cowl”
6. Initial checking
1). Check the water pump housing for
cracking or damage.
2). Check the leaking hole of water
pump for continued leakage.
Note: The replacement of water
pump cannot be based on
streak flaws or chemical
aggregates at water leaking
holes. Replace or overhaul the
water pump if the continued
leakage of the coolant occurs.
7. Remove the water pump

1). Remove two mounting bolts, water
pump and seal ring.

1. Clean and check the water pump
1). Clean the water pump with solvent,
and then dry it with compressed air.
516 Service of water pump

2). Clean the sealing surface of cylinder

block.
3). Wash the sealing surface of O-ring

on water pump housing.
4). Check the sealing surface for
damage.
Note: If any damage occurs, please
replace the water pump.
Note: If the impeller blade is

damaged, ensure to check the
cylinder block for possible
damage.
5). Check the blade for possible
damages, such as cracking, missing
blade, sliding on shaft, etc.
6). Check the water pump housing for
crack or damage.
Note: If any damage occurs, please
replace the water pump.
Refitting
1. Fit the water pump assembly
1). Fit the water pump (with seal) and
mounting bolts.

2. Fit the belt tensioner

Refer to “Replacement of water pump
tensioner”
3. Fit the driving belt

4. Fit the fan air deflector assembly

Refer to “Replacement of fan cowl
assembly”
5. Fill the cooler system
518 Service of water pump



V. Replacement of coolant thermostat

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials

Removal
1. Leakage test
1). If any thermostat leakage is
detected, it is supposed to perform
following steps to check for leakage:
Note: The following steps must be
done after the engine runs for
1 min when thermostat is
closed.
2). Disconnect the radiator upper hose

from the water outlet joint.
3). The hose fitted on the water outlet
should be of same dimension. The
hose should be long enough to be
connected to a dry container at a
distance to collect coolant.
4). Fit and tighten the hose clamp on the
water outlet pipe joint.
5). Put the other end of the hose into a
dry container.
520 Replacement of coolant thermostat

6). Run the engine at a rated speed for 1

min, shut down the engine and
measure the volume of coolant
collected in the container.
Note: The volume of collected
coolant should not exceed
100cc. If not, the thermostat
will leak, the thermostat
therefore must be replaced.
Monitor the coolant
temperature during test in
order to check if the coolant
temperature reaches the
nominal temperature for
thermostat opening. If the
thermostat opens during test,
the test should be invalid and
retest must be carried out.
3. Remove the coolant thermostat
1). Drain the coolant until the coolant

level is lower than the thermostat
level.
2). Disconnect the radiator upper hose
from the water outlet joint.
3). For front gear train engine,
disconnect the pressure-relief sensor
pipe at water outlet joint.
4). For front gear train engine,

disconnect the lead harness on the
pressure-relief sensor.
5). Remove the bolts of water outlet
joint.
6). Remove the water outlet joint.
7). Remove the thermostat.
Replacement of coolant thermostat 521


1. Wash the thermostat
1). Clean the fitting surface with a
polishing pad (or equivalents) and a
clean cloth.
Note: Prevent debris from falling
into the thermostat cavity
during washing of sealing
gasket surface; those falling
debris may results in damage
to cooling system and engine.
2). Check the exterior of thermostat for
damage.
3). Check if there is any cracking,
imbedded scrap, missing check
valve ball, damaged seat retainer,
etc.
Note: If any damage occurs, replace
the thermostat.
2. Measurement
1). If you suspect that the thermostat
has fault, you should measure the
opening temperature of thermostat to
check if the thermostat functions
normally.
2). Hang a thermostat and a
thermometer with a range of 100℃in
a container with water.
Note: Prevent the thermostat or
thermometer from contacting
the container.
Note: According to applications,
there are two types of
thermostats with different
ranges. They are marked with
nominal operating
temperatures. It is required to
refer to appropriate part
information in order to ensure
that thermostats with right
ranges are fitted.
3). Thermostat at normal temperature
(82℃).
Initial opening temperature 79℃
Full opening temperature 94℃
4). Thermostat at normal temperature
(88℃).
Initial opening temperature 86℃

Full opening temperature 97℃

Refitting
Note: Always use a right thermostat

and do not run the engine
before the thermostat is fitted.
Because the coolant channel
with minimum resistance is
the one in which the coolant
flows into the water pump
inlet through the bypass, the
engine overheating occurs
when running the engine
without thermostat. An
incorrect specification of
thermostat may lead to
overheating or undercooling
of engine. If the previously
fitted thermostat is in use, it is
required to ensure the seal
currently used is a new one.
1. Fit the thermostat.
1). Fit the thermostat in the thermostat

housing.
2). Fit the mounting bolts of water outlet
joint.
4). The pressure-relief sensor on water
outlet joint.
5). Connect the lead harness on
pressure-relief sensor.
6). Connect the radiator upper hose to
the water outlet joint.
2. Fill cooling system
Replacement of coolant thermostat 523



VI. Replacement of driving belt for cooling fan

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials
Common tools Square wrench
Special tools Removal tool for belt

Removal
2. Remove the fan belt
1). Fan belt tensioner is loaded by the
spring and should be removed from
the driving belt by rotating the driving
belt. Incorrect rotation direction can
result in damage to the fan belt
tensioner. The tensioning direction of
the tensioner depends on the
direction that the spring latch bends
to on the tensioner. Rotate the
tensioner towards the elastic
tightener in order to relieve the
tensity of the belt.
2). Excessive force may result in
breaking to tensioning arm in case of
that the tensioning direction of the
tensioner is opposite to the direction
that spring bends to or that the
tensioner contacts stop block during
rotation.
3). It is supposed to draw a arrangement
diagram for the driving belt before
removing it, which can facilitate the
refitting and ensure the proper
arrangement of the driving belt of
cooling fan.
Note: The location of belt tensioner
depends on arrangement of
accessories in the front end of
the engine.
4). Rotate the tensioner on the pivot in
the direction of spring latch to
remove the belt.
5). Remove the belt.
Replacement of driving belt for cooling fan 525


1. Clean and check the driving belt of
cooling fan
1). Check the driving belt for cracking,
wearing down, tearing or scratching,
hardening or excessive wear.
the belt.
2). Check the idler and drive pulley for

wear or cracking.
Note: Plastic pulley may have
deposited road dirts or belt
materials, which should not
be regarded as wear.
Note: Remove the dirts with an
appropriate tool to check for
wear. Reusing instead of
replacing can be realized after
Cleaning and checking the
idler that has deposited dirts.
3). Check the tensioner.
Refitting
1. Fit the belt
1). Arrange the driving belt on the
engine according to the arrangement
diagram of the belt drawn in the
removal steps.
Note: Do not fit the belt to the water
pump pulley in this step.
2). Rotate the tensioner in the direction
of spring latch and fit the driving belt,
and finally slide the belt onto the
water pump pulley.
3). Release the tensioner to apply
tensity to the driving belt.
4). Check if the belt is aligned to the
tensioner and other parts of auxiliary
drive media on front end.
526 Replacement of driving belt for cooling fan


3. Run the engine and check the belt for
creak.
Note: The excessive squeaking of
the belt will result in belt
slipping.
Replacement of driving belt for cooling fan 527

VII. Replacement of cooling fan belt tensioner

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials
Common tools Square wrench, socket, wrench

Removal
1. Initial checking
1). Check the tensioner arm, belt pulley
and stop block for cracking.
Note: If any cracking, it is required
to replace the tensioner.
2). If fitted with belts, check that two

tensioner arm stops do not contact
with the spring case stop.
3). Check if the part numbers of fitted
belts are right. If not, replace the belt.
Note: If the tensioner arm stop still
contacts with the spring case
stop after belt replacement,
replace the tensioner.
528 Replacement of cooling fan belt tensioner

4). Check the position of driving belt on

belt tensioner pulley.
5). The belt should be in or near the
middle of pulley. If the unaligned belt
is positioned either far forward or far
backward, it may lead to belt wear,
belt rolling fault or increased uneven
wear for tensioner bushing.

Note: Check if the tensioner arm
stops contacts with the spring
case stop when the belt has
been removed. If they do not
contact with each other, it is
required to replace the
tensioner.
4. Remove belt tensioner

1). Remove the bolts and belt tensioner
from the bracket.
Note: The belt tensioner is fitted on
the water outlet joint for most
parts, while fitted on
individual mounting bracket
for small parts, thus keeping a
clearance between internal
fasteners.
Checking
1. Check the belt
1). Latitudinal cracking (passing through
the belt) is acceptable. On the
contrary, the longitudinal cracking
(along the belt length) which
intersects with the latitudinal cracking
is inacceptable. If any part of the belt
is worn or missing, the belt will be
rejected and replaced.
Replacement of cooling fan belt tensioner 529

2). Measure the clearance between

tensioner spring and tensioner arm
to verify the wear to tensioner and if
uneven shaft wear resistance
occurs. If the clearance at any point
exceeds 3 mm, the tensioner fails
and must be replaced as a whole
assembly. Experience shows that
normally there is large clearance
between the lower end of the
tensioner and spring case, which
may result in friction between upper
end of the tensioner and tensioner
arm.
Note: The belt must be replaced
during tensioner replacement.
3). Check the contact between tensioner
arm and tensioner cap.
Note: If the contact between
tensioner arm and tensioner
cap occurs, the pivot bushing
fails and it is required to
replace the tensioner.
Refitting
1. Fit the belt tensioner
1). If the tensioner has been removed, fit
the mounting bracket of belt
tensioner and bolts of the mounting
bracket.
Note: For some mounting brackets
of belt tensioner, the
clearance is obtained by
using internal fasteners.
2). Fit the belt tensioner and bolts.
530 Replacement of cooling fan belt tensioner


Replacement of cooling fan belt tensioner 531

VIII. Replacement of fan idler pulley

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials

Removal
2. Remove the fan air deflector assembly

assembly”
3. Remove the idler pulley

Note: It is recommended to remove
the idler pulley assembly to
ensure the correct fitting of
the dust cover if the idler
pulley is to be replaced.
1). Remove the mounting bolts of idler
pulley support bracket and the idler
pulley assembly.
532 Replacement of fan idler pulley

4. Disassembling
1). Remove the pulley.
2). If the mounting bolts of pulley are
covered by the dust cover, tap the
dust cover out of the pulley with a
hammer and a chisel. Align the chisel
to one side of the cover to remove it
carefully.
3). Remove the dust cover and discard
it.
4). For the fitting of some idler pulleys,

idler pulley shaft is a part of idler
pulley support bracket. Remove the
mounting bolts of idler pulley.
5). Remove the idler pulley and idler
pulley shaft.

1. Clean and check the fan idler pulley
1). Check the idler pulley for notches,
cracking or other damages.
2). Rotate the pulley to check if it is hard
to rotate it or it may cause too much
noise during rotation.
the idler pulley
3). Check the idler pulley shaft for

missing groove or scratch.
the bracket or shaft.
Replacement of fan idler pulley 533

Refitting
1. Assembly
1). Fit the idler pulley to the idler shaft.

2). During the fitting of idler pulley, if the
idler shaft does not function as a part
of idler pulley support bracket, the
pulley is symmetrical, thus the shaft
can be fitted to either side of the
pulley.
Note: During the fitting of idler

pulley, if the idler shaft does
not function as a part of idler
pulley support bracket, the
flange side of idler pulley
shaft must be flush with idler
pulley support bracket.
3). During the fitting of idler pulley, if the
idler shaft does not function as a part
of idler pulley support bracket,
calibrate the fitting positions of the
idler pulley assembly on idler pulley
support bracket.
4). Fit the mounting bolts of idler pulley
and tighten them.
5). If the mounting bolts of idler pulley

are covered by the dust cover, fit a
new dust cover. It is desired to fit a
fixture and a socket matching with
the external diameters of dust cover.
534 Replacement of fan idler pulley

2. Fit the idler

1). Fit the idler pulley assembly and
mounting bolts of idler pulley support
bracket.
2). Tighten the bolts
3. Fit the fan driving belt f

4. Fit the fan air deflector assembly

assembly”
Replacement of fan idler pulley 535

IX. Replacement of on-off fan clutch

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials

Removal
2. Remove the cooling fan and spacer

sleeve
Refer to “Replacement of fan assembly”

Refer to “Replacement of belt assembly”
536 Replacement of on-off fan clutch

4. Remove the fan clutch
1). Disconnect the fan clutch connector

from the basic harness of fan clutch.
Note: When the mounting fasteners
of electric fan clutch are
loosened, ensure that the
clutch is supported stably.
There is an external Torx head
for the mounting bolt of
electric fan clutch.
2). Remove the mounting bolts of

electric fan clutch, washers and
electric fan clutch.
3). Record the refitting position and
direction of electric fan clutch bracket
before removing it. For the
arrangement of different fan driving
belts, the mounting brackets can be
fitted in different directions.
4). Record the position of P-clamp for
electric fan clutch wire harness.
5). Remove the electric fan clutch

bracket and mounting bolts.

1. Clean and check the fan clutch
1). Wash the fan clutch and bracket with
solvent.
2). Blow them dry with compressed air.
Replacement of on-off fan clutch 537

3). Check the fan clutch and bracket for

damage.
Refitting
Note: Ensure to fit the mounting

bracket of electric fan clutch
in the same direction and
position with those for
removing it. For the
arrangement of different fan
driving belts, the mounting
brackets can be fitted in
different directions.
1. Fit the fan clutch
1). Fit mounting bolts of electric fan
clutch bracket, P-clamp for wire
harness lead and mounting bolts.
Note: There is an external Torx head
for mounting bolts of electric
fan clutch.
2). Fit the electric fan clutch, washers
and mounting bolts.
3). Before tightening the bolts, turn the
fan clutch to clamp the wire from the
back of fan clutch with a P-clamp.
Bend the P-clamp over the clutch to
secure the wire.
Note: Ensure that no pulling of the
wire of fan clutch is
performed.
4). Tighten the mounting bolts of fan
clutch.
5). Connect the fan clutch connector to
the fan clutch harness.
538 Replacement of on-off fan clutch


3. Fit the cooling fan and spacer sleeve

Refer to “Replacement of cooling fan”
Replacement of on-off fan clutch 539

X. Replacement of belt driving fan hub

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, sealant, hair brush

Removal

3. Remove the cooling fan

540 Replacement of belt driving fan hub

4. Remove the fan hub
1). Since fan hub has various

configurations, it is required to
record the position, direction and
refitting way of the hub before
removing it from the engine.
2). Remove four bolts and the fan hub.

1. Clean and check the fan hub
1). Clean the fan hub and the fan belt
pulley with solvent.
2). Blow them dry with compressed air.

3). Check if the fan hub shaft can rotate
freely.
Note: If necessary, replace the fan
hub shaft.
Note: Some fan hub assembly can
be reassembled with new
bearings and relevant
components. Check the
availability of parts before
removing the fan hub.
4). Check the fan hub bearing for wear. C

Note: Minimum latitudinal or
longitudinal clearance should
be remained for the bearing. If
the longitudinal clearance of
the fan hub is greater than
0.15 mm, replace it.
Replacement of belt driving fan hub 541

Refitting
1. Fit the fan hub
1). Fit the fan hub and four bolts

according to the marks made before
removal.
2. Fit the cooling fan

542 Replacement of belt driving fan hub

Replacement of belt driving fan hub 543

XI. Replacement of fan shroud assembly

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials

Removal
2. Initial checking
1). Check the fan air deflector for
damages or contact with the cooling
fan or both of them. Replace all
damaged parts.
3. Remove the fan cowl

1). Under some conditions, the fan air
deflector is secured on the engine.
Note: Always ensure that there is
enough clearance between
fan impellers in the fan air
deflector. Correct it if
necessary.
2). Under some conditions, the fan air
deflector is secured on the engine.
Refitting
1. Fit the fan cowl
544 Replacement of fan shroud assembly

Replacement of fan shroud assembly 545

XII. Fan spacer sleeve and belt pulley

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials
Common tools Wrench, socket, square wrench
Auxiliary materials Cleaning cloth, sealant, hair brush and oil

Removal

Note: Loosen the mounting bolts of
fan belt pulley and cooling fan
(if equipped) before removing
the driving belt.

Note: Some engines are not

equipped with cooling fans.
546 Fan spacer sleeve and belt pulley

3. If equipped, remove the cooling fan

4. Remove the fan belt pulley and spacer
sleeve
1). For the engine with an engine-driven
cooling fan, secure the fan belt pulley
and spacer sleeve in place. Remove
the fan belt pulley and the spacer
sleeve.
2). If the engine is not equipped with

engine-driven cooling fan, it is
required to remove the mounting
bolts of fan belt pulley and the fan
belt pulley.

1. Clean and check the fan belt pulley
1). Clean the fan belt pulley with solvent
and then blow it dry with compressed
air.
2). Check the fan belt pulley.

3). Check the part of the fan belt pulley
around bolt holes for cracking and
the contact surface of driving belt for
damage. If any damage occurs,
replace the belt pulley.
Refitting
1. Fit the fan spacer sleeve and belt
pulley
Fan spacer sleeve and belt pulley 547

1). If the engine is not equipped with engine-driven

cooling fan, it is supposed to fit the mounting
bolts of fan belt pulley and the fan belt pulley.
Note: Tighten the mounting bolts after refitting
the driving belt.
Tightening torque M6 10N·m
M10 43N·m
MI2 77N·m
Note: Some engines are not equipped with
cooling fans.
2). Fit the fan belt pulley and the spacer sleeve
3). For the engine with an engine-driven cooling
fan, secure the fan belt pulley and the spacer
sleeve in place. Fit the fan belt pulley and the
spacer sleeve.
2. If removed, refit the cooling fan

Refer to “Replacement of fan”
Note: Secure the cooling fan with tensity from
the driving belt when tightening the
mounting bolts. Do not constraint the
fan blades to ensure the free rotation of
the cooling fan. Tighten the mounting
bolts after refitting the driving belt.
Tightening torque M6 10N·m
M10 43N·m
MI2 77N·m
548 Fan spacer sleeve and belt pulley


Fan spacer sleeve and belt pulley 549

Engine electronic control system

I. General
(i) Overview of engine electronic control system
Electronic control fuel injection
Based on common rail electronic fuel injection technology, the constant high-pressure fuel directly
or indirectly provided through the common rail, and then the provided fuel is distributed to each
injector, which controls the fuel volume injected into combustion chamber of diesel engine by the
injector with constant quantity on a regular basis by means of the opening and closing of high speed
solenoid valve integrated on each injector, thus ensuring that the diesel engine can achieve
optimized combustion ratio, good atomization, optimum ignition time, sufficient ignition energy and
minimum emission.
550 General
(ii) Technical parameters
S/N Items Parameters
1 Lead resistance of speed sensor 770-950Ω
2 Lead resistance of phase sensor 770-950Ω
3 Output voltage of supercharging pressure sensor 0.5-4.5V
4 Measurement range of water temperature sensor -40℃-+130℃
5 Output voltage of rail pressure sensor 0.5-4.5V
6 ECM operating voltage 9-32V
(ii) Tightening torque
S/N Fasteners Torque (N·m)
1 Water temperature sensor × cylinder head

18±2
2 Oil pressure sensor × cylinder block
3 Phase sensor × rear end plate
4 Speed sensor × flywheel housing

8±2
5 Supercharging pressure sensor × intake manifold
6 Injector harness connector × injector
7 Engine harness strap × cylinder block 20±3
(iv) Service precautions

1. Do not plug or unplug the ECM connectors under power;
2. Since there is a times limitation for plugging and unplugging ECM connectors, do not
plug or unplug them on a frequent basis;
3. Always ensure to switch off the main power supply during welding operation to the
vehicle;
General 551
II. Removal and refitting of electronic control module(ECM)
Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials
Common tools Socket, double offset ring open-end spanner
Auxiliary materials Fast-drying electrical contact cleaner

Removal
2. Remove the ECM

1). Disconnect the ECM power supply
harness, engine harness and OEM
harness connector from the ECM.
Note: Record all programmable
parameters, properties and
nominal information of
electronic control
module(ECM) before
removing the connectors. The
information is important for
programming a new ECM.
2). Remove the bolts for securing the

ECM to the ECM mounting plate.
3). Remove the ECM.
552 Removal and refitting of electronic control module(ECM)

Refitting
1. Fit the ECM

1). Fit the ECM to the mounting plate
and tighten the bolts.
Note: Do not paint rear end of ECM.
Ensure that there is no
lubricating grease or dirt
between the ECM and the
mounting plate.
2). Clear all dirt and dampness in ECM

connector port and harness
connector with fast-drying electrical
contact cleaner (PN: 3824510).
Note: Do not blow the ECM port or
connector with compressed
air. The compressed air may
include moisture due to
condensation.
3). Connect the ECM power supply
harness, engine harness and OEM
harness connector to the ECM. Fit
the connector bolts to the ECM
connector and tighten them.
Note: It is important to calibrate the
new ECM after the
replacement with a new ECM.
Then it is supposed to adjust
the ECM mileage deviation,
ECM time deviation, engine
mileage deviation and engine
time deviation.
Removal and refitting of electronic control module(ECM) 553

3. Checking Onboard
1). Start the engine.
2). Clear the historical fault information
with the service software when the
engine runs smoothly.
3). Read the engine data flow and check
if there is any fault information.
4). If there is fault information or data
flow is abnormal, it is supposed to
repair or replace the relevant
components.
5). Shut down the engine after verifying
that the engine runs normally.
554 Removal and refitting of electronic control module(ECM)

III. Barometric pressure sensor

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials

Removal
1. Initial checking
1). Connect the service software to the

communication interface of vehicle
data.
2). Turn the key switch to ON position.
3). Monitor the barometric pressure.
Note: If barometric pressure is not
higher than 523mmHg and the
current altitude is lower than
3.048km, replace the
barometric pressure sensor.
3. Remove the barometric pressure

sensor
1). Turn the locking plate to one side.
2). Push the button towards rear end of
the connector and remove the
connector from the sensor.
3). Remove the fixing bolts of sensor
and then remove the sensor.
Barometric pressure sensor 555

Refitting
1. Fit the barometric pressure sensor
1). Fit the sensor to the intake manifold
cover and tighten the bolts.
2). Push the connectors together until
they are locked and turn the locking
plate to the locking position.
3. Checking Onboard
2). Clear the historical fault information
components.
556 Barometric pressure sensor

IV. Engine coolant level sensor

Tools & Auxiliary Materials Name & Model

Removal
2. Empty the radiator tank
Note: Do not open the pressure cap

of radiator when the engine is
under hot condition. The cap
should not be opened until the
temperature of coolant falls
below 50 ℃ .Otherwise,
personal injury may occur due
to the ejection of the high
temperature coolant or steam.
Warning: Since the coolant is toxic,
it is supposed to keep the
coolant out of reach of
children and pets. In
addition, if the coolant
will not be reused, it must
be disposed in
compliance with local
environmental
regulations.
Engine coolant level sensor 557

3. Remove the sensor

1). Lift the locking plate and pull out the
electrical connectors.
2). Remove the sensor.
Refitting
1. Fit the sensor
1). Fit and tighten the sensor.
2). Push the electrical connectors
together until they are locked.
3. Fill the coolant

4. Run the engine to check for leakage.
558 Engine coolant level sensor

V. Engine coolant temperature sensor

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials

Removal
1. Initial checking
1). Connect the INSITE service software

and check if coolant temperature
reading is consistent with the reading
of thermometer.
3. Empty the radiator tank

Note: Do not open the pressure cap
of radiator when the engine is
under hot condition. The cap
should not be opened until the
temperature of coolant falls
below 50 ℃ . Otherwise,
personal injury may occur due
to the ejection of the high
temperature coolant or steam.
Warning: Since the coolant is toxic,
it is supposed to keep the
coolant out of reach of
children and pets. In
addition, if the coolant
will not be reused, it must
be disposed in
compliance with local
environmental
regulations.
Engine coolant temperature sensor 559

4. Remove coolant temperature sensor

Check if the parts are suitable for further

operation
1. Checking of harness connector

1). Check the connector housing for flaw
or cracking.
2. Checking of sensor
1). Check if the connector seal is
missing or damaged.
2). Check if there is dirt, debris or
dampness in or on the test pins.
3). Check if there are corroded, bent,
broken, retracted or extended pins.
Refitting
1. Fit the sensor
1). Replace with a new O-ring and
lubricate it with new oil.
2). Fit and tighten the sensor.
they are locked.
560 Engine coolant temperature sensor

3. Fill the coolant

5. Checking Onboard
2). Clear the fault information history
components.
Engine coolant temperature sensor 561

VI. Throttle pedal or control lever position sensor

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials

Checking Onboard
1. Initial checking
1). Measure the resistance first, then

disconnect the connector from the
throttle position sensor and finally
connect the test connector.
2). Connect the multimeter positive pole

(+) test lead to the power supply
(+5V) test connector lead of throttle
pedal/control lever position sensor.
Connect the multimeter negative
pole (-)test lead to the circuit test
connector lead of throttle
pedal/control lever position sensor.
3). Measure the resistance. When the
throttle pedal is at released (at idling
position) or depressed (at full throttle
position) position, the value of
multimeter should be between 2000
ohm and 3000 ohm.
4). If the resistance value does not meet
the technical specification, it means
that the throttle position sensor has
faults. Replace the throttle position
sensor.
562 Throttle pedal or control lever position sensor

5). Remove the multimeter probe from the

power supply (+5V) test connector lead of
throttle pedal/control lever position sensor,
and connect it to the signal test connector
lead of throttle pedal/control lever position
sensor.
6). When the throttle pedal is at depressed
position (at full throttle position),measure
the resistance value. The resistance value
displayed on the multimeter should be
between 1500 ohm and 3000 ohm.
7). Depress the throttle pedal assembly (to the

full throttle position) and measure the
resistance value. The value displayed on
the multimeter should be between 250 ohm
and 1500 ohm. And the value should be at
least 1000 ohm less than the resistance
values from the above measurements
(1500 ohm to 3000 ohm). If the measured
resistance values of above two steps do
not meet the technical specifications, it
indicates that the throttle pedal position
sensor has faults. If resistance values meet
the specifications, it is also necessary to
check the throttle pedal position sensor for
a short circuit to ground.
8). Check it for a short circuit to ground.
9). Connect the multimeter positive pole (+)

test lead to the circuit test connector lead of
throttle pedal/ control lever position sensor.
Make the multimeter negative(-)probe
contact chassis grounded and measure the
resistance.
Note: Multimeter must display a result of
“Open circuit” (100 kΩ or higher).
10). Remove the multimeter positive probe (+)

from the circuit test connector lead of
throttle pedal/control lever position sensor
and connect it to the signal test connector
lead of throttle pedal/control lever position
sensor. Measure the resistance.
Note: Multimeter must display a result of
“Open circuit” (100 kΩ or higher).
Throttle pedal or control lever position sensor 563

11). Remove the multimeter positive (+)

probe from the signal test connector
lead of throttle pedal/control lever
position sensor and connect it to the
power supply (+5V) test connector
lead of throttle pedal/control lever
position sensor. Measure the
resistance
Note: Multimeter must display a
result of “Open circuit” (100
kΩ or higher).
12). If the measured resistance values of
above two steps do not meet the
technical specifications, it indicates
that the throttle pedal position sensor
has faults, replace the throttle pedal
position sensor. If the throttle pedal
position sensor passes all above
checkings, connect the sensor to the
lead harness. It is also necessary to
check the circuit of throttle pedal
position sensor.

2). Loosen the fixing bolts of sensor.
Refitting
1. Fit the sensor
1). Fit the sensor and tighten the
tightening bolts.
they are locked.
564 Throttle pedal or control lever position sensor

3. Checking Onboard
components.
Throttle pedal or control lever position sensor 565

VII. Intake manifold pressure/temperature sensor

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials

Removal

2). Remove the tightening bolts of

sensor
3). Remove the sensor from the intake
pipe union.
Note: Be careful not damage the
O-ring or wrap up the plastic
box on the top of sensor
during sensor removal. Do not
pry the sensor; otherwise it
may cause damage to the
plastic box.
566 Intake manifold pressure/temperature sensor


operation
1. Checking of sensor and harness

connector
1). Check the sensor housing for
cracking or fracture.
2). Check if the connector seal is
missing or damaged.
3). Check if there is dirt, debris or
moisture in or on the test pins.
4). Check if there are corroded, bent,
broken, retracted or extended test
pins.
5). Check if the O-ring has expansion.

Check if there is drag mark or scratch
in or on the O-ring.
6). Check the top of sensor for flue dust

or carbon deposits.
Note: If necessary, clean the flue
dust in the sensor with
compressed air, and do not
replace the sensor due to the
flue dust in it.
Note: Wear the appropriate safety
goggles and face guard when
using the compressed air.
Refitting
1. Fit the sensor
1). Replace the used O-ring and fit a
new O-ring.
2). Fit the sensor in the engine and
tighten the bolts.
they are locked.
Intake manifold pressure/temperature sensor 567

3. Checking Onboard
components.
568 Intake manifold pressure/temperature sensor

VIII. Checking of exhaust braking “ON/OFF” switch

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials
1. Check the exhaust braking switch

1). Stick labels including the switch
positions or lead numbers on these
leads.
2). Remove the electrical connectors
from the switch.
3). Bring one probe of the multimeter

into contact with the central terminal
of the switch and connect the other
probe with the bottom terminal of the
switch.
4). Turn the switch to OFF position.

kΩ or higher). If there is no
open circuit in the circuit, then
there is a fault in the switch.
Replace the switch.
Checking of exhaust braking “ON/OFF” switch 569

5). Turn the switch to ON position.

Note: Multimeter must display that
the circuit is closed (10 ohm
or lower). If not, the switch
has faults. Replace the switch.
2. Check the switch for a short circuit to

ground
1). Connect one probe of the multimeter
to one terminal of the switch.
Connect the other probe to the
chassis ground end. Turn the switch
to ON position and measure the
resistance value.
kΩ or higher). If the circuit is
free from an open circuit,
there is a fault in the switch.
Replace the switch.
2). If the switch passes all above
checkings, it is necessary to check
the circuit for an open circuit, short
circuit to ground, short circuit
between test pins and short circuit in
external power supply.
570 Checking of exhaust braking “ON/OFF” switch

IX. Camshaft position sensor

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials
SocketS10/S13/S16/S18/S22/S24, double offset ring open-end

Common tools
spanner/S16S18/S22/S24

Removal

Push the button towards rear end of
2). Remove the fixing bolts of sensor.
3). Remove the sensor from the refitting
position.

operation
1. Check the sensor
1). Check the connection between
camshaft position sensor and speed
signal cam for debris, cracking or
damage. If any, replace it with a new
sensor.
2). Check the sensor for notches,
cracking, deformation or damage. If
any, replace it with a new sensor.
Camshaft position sensor 571

Refitting
1. Fit the sensor

1). Fit a new O-ring on the sensor and
apply clean oil on the O-ring.
2). Fit the new sensor into the fixing hole
3). Connect the engine harness, slide
the locking plate to one side, and
lock the connector to the sensor.
3. Checking Onboard
components.
572 Camshaft position sensor

X. Crankshaft position sensor

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials

Common tools

Removal

Push the button towards rear end of
2). Remove the fixing bolts of sensor.
3). Remove the sensor from the refitting
position.

operation
1. Check the sensor
1). Check crankshaft position sensor for
debris, cracking or damage. If any,
replace it with a new sensor.
2). Check the sensor for notches,
cracking or damage. If any, replace it
with a new sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor 573

Refitting
1. Fit the sensor

1). Fit a new O-ring on the sensor and
apply clean oil on the O-ring.
2). Fit the new sensor into the fixing hole
3). Connect the engine harness, slide

the locking plate to one side, and
lock the connector to the sensor.
574 Crankshaft position sensor

3. Checking Onboard
components.
Crankshaft position sensor 575

XI. Checking of fan control switch

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials

Common tools

Removal
1. Initial checking
1). Find the position of fan control switch

and stick labels including switch
positions or lead numbers, and
remove the electrical connectors
from the switch.
2). Connect one probe of multimeter to
one terminal of the switch and
connect the other probe of
multimeter to another terminal of the
switch.
3). Turn the switch to ON position and
measure the resistance value.
open circuit, the switch has
faults. Replace the switch.
4). Turn the switch to OFF position and

Note: Multimeter must display that
the circuit is closed (10 ohm
or less). If not, the switch has
5). If the resistance value is correct, it is
still required to check the switch for
short circuit to ground.
576 Checking of fan control switch

2. Check for short to ground

1). Connect one probe of multimeter to
one terminal of the switch and
connect the other probe of
multimeter to chassis ground end.
Turn the switch to ON position and
open circuit, the switch has
2). If the switch passes all above
checkings, it is necessary to check
the circuit for open circuit, short
circuit to ground, short circuit
between test pins and short circuit in
external power supply.
Checking of fan control switch 577

XII. Replacement of rail pressure sensor

Tools & Auxiliary

Name & Model
Materials
Common tools Open end wrenchS27
Special tools Diagnostic instrument
Testing tools Multimeter

Removal
1. Switch off the master power switch
2. Disconnect the rail pressure sensor harness
3. Remove the rail pressure sensor

1). Loosen one nut and remove the rail
pressure sensor.
Checking
1. Check the rail pressure sensor
1). Apply a voltage (5V) to terminal 1
and terminal 3 and use a multimeter
to measure if the output voltage of
terminal 1 and terminal 2 is within
0.2V to 0.8V.
Note: If the measured resistance
value is not consistent with
the standard value, it is
necessary to replace it with a
new rail pressure sensor.
578 Replacement of rail pressure sensor

Refitting
1. Fit the rail pressure sensor

1). Fit the rail pressure sensor to the
tail end of high-pressure common
rail.
Tightening torque 18±2N·m
2. Connect the rail pressure sensor
harness
3. Checking Onboard
components.
Replacement of rail pressure sensor 579

XIII. Removal and refitting of inlet and outlet temperature sensor

Common tools Wrench
Testing tools Multimeter

Removal
2. Disconnect the harness connector of

inlet temperature sensor
1). Slide the locking plate on the top of
connector to the open position.
2). Push down the locking plate near to
the harness connector end (at the
position where the harness is
inserted into the plug).
3). Pull the connector out of the sensor
to disconnect the connector.
Note: There are number marks on
lead harness connector of
each temperature sensor.
3. Remove the nuts of inlet temperature

sensor
1). Loosen the fixing nut and remove the
sensor from the post processing
system.
2). Remove the inlet temperature sensor
Warning: This operation must be
carried out after the
exhaust pipe has been
cooled.
580 Removal and refitting of inlet and outlet temperature sensor

Checking
1. Appearance checking
1). Check if there are any damaged or
broken leads, bent or broken pins,
damaged connectors or thread.
2). Visually check if there is any
cracking, pits, twisting or carbon
deposits on the top of sensor.
Refitting
1. Fit the inlet temperature sensor

1). Apply a layer of Loctite 80209,
51002, 76732 cupper grade or silver
grade anti-caking composite agent or
equivalent on the sensor thread.
2). Tighten the fixing nuts of sensor.
3). Connect the connector of sensor to
the harness.
2. Connect the vehicle battery
3. Run the engine to check for the normal
operation
Removal and refitting of inlet and outlet temperature sensor 581

XIV. Removal and refitting of urea nozzle

Common tools Wrench

Removal
2. Remove post-processing nozzle

1). Disconnect the feed pipeline of urea
from the post-processing nozzle and
drain the excessive solution in the
catalytic converter into an
appropriate container and then press
the both ends of the quick connector
to loosen it.
2). Remove the fixing nuts of urea
nozzle solution.
3). Take out the nozzle

Note: Prevent the urea in the pipe
from splashing over the
exhaust pipe; prevent the
ceramic core in the nozzle
from falling off, otherwise the
ceramic coating may be
damaged.
582 Removal and refitting of urea nozzle

Washing
1. Wash post-processing nozzle
1). Immerse the post-processing
nozzle in appropriate amount of
clean warm water, connect a
pressure air pipe ( ≤ 10psi) and
then blow air to the nozzle so that
4 different injection angles can be
seen.
Note: Only clean soften warm water
can be used to wash the
post-processing nozzle,
Checking
1. Check the appearance of
post-processing nozzle end
1). Visually check the nozzle end, and
its four holes should be seen clearly.
2). Visually check the nozzle for
damage.
Note: While rocking, it is normal that
the post-processing nozzle
may produce slight noise.
Refitting
1. Fit the nozzle on the exhaust pipe

Note: The holes of the nozzle should
be along the direction of
airflow and face the catalytic
converter instead of facing
the exhaust flow directly.
1). Apply the high temperature
resistance and anti-caking composite
agent to the thread of fixing seat.
2). Fit the fixing nuts of post-processing
nozzle.
Removal and refitting of urea nozzle 583

3). Reconnect the feed pipe of urea

solution to the post-processing
nozzle.
2. Reconnect the battery

operation.
584 Removal and refitting of urea nozzle

XV. Removal and refitting of NOx sensor assembly


Removal

2. Remove NOx sensor
1). Disconnect the push-in fit connector

of NOx sensor module.
2). Remove two fixing bolts
3). Remove the fixing nuts and pull out

the NOx sensor from the exhaust
catalytic converter.
Removal and refitting of NOx sensor assembly 585

Checking
1. Check the NOx sensor
1). Check the NOx sensor lead or body
for damage.
2). Check the NOx sensor for damage
Refitting
1. Fit the NOx sensor
1). Apply a layer of anti-caking
composite on the thread of NOx
sensor.
2). Fit the NOx sensor in the exhaust
system and tighten the fixing nuts.
3). Connect the plug of NOx sensor and

tighten two mounting bolts.
586 Removal and refitting of NOx sensor assembly


3. Run the engine to check that on fault
code exists
Removal and refitting of NOx sensor assembly 587

XVI. Replacement of urea charging control unit


Removal

2. Release pressure in the airreservoirof
vehicle.
3. Remove the charging control unit

1). Disconnect the electrical connector
and pipeline on charging control unit.
2). Remove four mounting bolts from
each corner of the charging control
unit.
Checking
1). If there is any cracking or damage on
the mounting flange, housing or
electrical connector, replace the
charging control unit.
2). Check all connectors, pipelines and
pipe joints for leakage or damage. If
necessary, replace the connectors.
Note: No repair for this control unit
is available. Do not open the
housing.
588 Replacement of urea charging control unit

Test
Warning: Urea solution contains
urea, so be careful to
prevent the urea from
entering eyes. Wear
appropriate safety
goggles and face guard
when blowing with the
compressed air because
the flying debris and dirt
may result in personnel
injury.
1. Remove the urea nozzle
Refer to “Removal and refitting of
post-processing system nozzle”
Note: The mounting hole of nozzle
must be covered in order to
avoid leakage.
1). Put the nozzle in a measuring

container with a minimum capacity of
2L.
2). Add 1 L water into the container to
prevent excessive urea solution from
injecting from the container.
Note: This test can only be carried
out when the vehicle is
stationary and shifted to
neutral gear and the engine is
running at idling speed.
3). Carry out the super cavitation test of
the charging control unit with the
service software.
Standard injection dose 900-1100ml
Refitting
1. Fit the charging control unit
1). Remove the push-in fit connector

from the damaged charging control
unit, and then fit it to the new
charging control unit if necessary.
Replacement of urea charging control unit 589

2). Connect two electrical connectors,

air solenoid valve and 37-pin
connector which are push-in
torsional fit connectors.
3). Insert the plugs removed from the

new charging control unit and fit
them to the damaged charging
control unit.
4). The charging control unit is secured

to the chassis with four screws;
connect the charging control unit to
the mounting bracket of OME.
5). Connect all disconnected pipelines


operation.
Replacement of urea charging control unit 591


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ISDe Series Euro IV Engines

Notices to engine service 5

II. Assembly identification

Name of Dongfeng Cummins engine

Nameplate of fuel injection pump

Nameplate of air compressor

(ii) Engine view

1. Air inlet 5. Fuel filter 11. Belt tensioner

Left view of ISDe series four-cylinder engine

1. Air intake pipe pressure/temperature sensor 10. Fuel inlet

Left view of ISDe series six-cylinder engine

1. Fuel rail pressure reducing valve 10. Fuel filter

Rear view of ISDe series engine

1. Air compressor coolant joint 5. Flywheel housing

Right view of ISDe series four-cylinder engine

1. Water outlet joint 6. Oil sump drain plug

Right view of ISDe series six-cylinder engine

1. Water outlet joint 6. Oil sump drain plug

Top view of ISDe series four-cylinder engine

Top view of ISDe series six-cylinder engine

III. Technical parameters

Manufacturer Dongfeng Cummins Engine Co., Ltd.

Technical parameters for ISDe series six-cylinder engine

Manufacturer Dongfeng Cummins Engine Co., Ltd.

Manufacturer Dongfeng Cummins Engine Co., Ltd.

(ii) Engine service & adjustment data

(iii) Drive belt tension

Engine tightening torque 23

Part to be tightened Tightening torque, N·m

24 Engine tightening torque

(ii) Mark and torque of fixing screw

Size Torque Torque Torque

Engine tightening torque 25

Mark and torque of fixing screw (American)

Torque of fixing screw torque – class 5 Torque of fixing screw – class 8

26 Engine tightening torque

Torque of pipe plug

Engine tightening torque 27

Replace air compressor filter (if equipped).

When applying or releasing spring safety

Check air pressure regulator for normal

Check for carbon deposit. Replace air

Check the operating conditions of check

Check unloading valve and valve body

Check air compressor cylinder head

(2) Air compressor is switched on and off frequently

When applying or releasing spring safety

Check air pressure regulator for normal

Check the operating condition of check

Check air compressor cylinder head

Replace the desiccant box on

Lubricate or replace check valve assembly

(3) Air compressor is too noisy

Check for carbon deposit. Replace air

For all models, check exhaust pipe. Check

The spline drive coupling or the gear is worn

Replace or overhaul the air compressor.

Verify whether the oil change interval is

Replace air compressor filter (if equipped).

The impurities are not discharged from the

Replace the desiccant box on

Check for carbon deposit. Replace air

The curvature of characteristic curve is out

Oil pressure is out of technical specification ………… Check oil pressure.