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ISSN: 1871-417X

EUROPEAN CULTURAL HERITAGE REVIEW


SUMMER 2014

EUROPA NOSTRA represents a rapidly growing citizens’ movement for the


safeguarding of Europe’s cultural and natural heritage. Our pan-European
network is composed of 250 member organisations (heritage associations
and foundations with a combined membership of more than 5 million people),
150 associated organisations (governmental bodies, local authorities and
corporations) and also 1500 individual members who directly support our
mission.

TOGETHER,
• we form an important lobby for cultural heritage in Europe;
• we celebrate excellence through the European Heritage Awards organised
by Europa Nostra in partnership with the European Union; and
• we campaign to save Europe’s endangered historic monuments, sites and
cultural landscapes.

We are the Voice of Cultural Heritage in Europe.

THE REAL SOUND OF MUSIC AND MONUMENTS MEN


ALONG THE SEMMERING RAILWAY AND THE DANUBE RIVER
FREUD, HUNDERTWASSER AND KLIMT
SWEET HERITAGE AND STRONG COFFEE
TALKING HERITAGE WITH EU LEADERS JOSÉ MANUEL BARROSO,
ANDROULLA VASSILIOU AND JOHANNES HAHN...

AUSTRIA SPECIAL
CALL FOR ENTRIES*
EUROPEAN UNION PRIZE FOR CULTURAL HERITAGE/

EUROPA NOSTRA AWARDS 2015

The European Union Prize for Cultural Outstanding heritage achievements will
Heritage was launched in 2002 by be awarded in the following categories:
the European Commission as part of
the implementation of the Culture 1. Conservation
Programme. Europa Nostra, the Voice of 2. Research and Digitalisation
Cultural Heritage in Europe, was selected 3. Dedicated Service by Individuals or
to run this Awards Scheme on the Organisations
basis of its long experience in publicly 4. Education, Training and Awareness-
recognising individual or joint excellence Raising
in the field of Cultural Heritage at a
European level. Criteria for the assessment of entries
include excellence in the work executed
The European Union Prize for Cultural and preliminary research conducted,
Heritage / Europa Nostra Awards is as well as respect for artistic, cultural
granted annually to identify and promote and social value, setting, authenticity
best practices in the conservation of and integrity. Entries can be on a
tangible cultural heritage, to stimulate scale ranging from small to large,
the trans-frontier exchanges of local to international, and should
knowledge and experience throughout display a standard of work considered
Europe, to enhance public awareness outstanding in a European context.
and appreciation of Europe’s cultural
heritage, and to encourage further The European Union Prize for Cultural
exemplary initiatives through the Power Heritage / Europa Nostra Awards
CLOSING DATE : 15 OCTOBER 2014
The ceremony will take place on 11 June 2015 at the Town
of Example. consists of two award levels. Up to Hall of Oslo, Norway
seven entries will be awarded a Grand For further information:
Prix, which includes a monetary award EUROPA NOSTRA, Elena Bianchi: Heritage Awards Coordinator
of € 10 000. Up to twenty-five entries T + 31 70 302 40 58 eb@europanostra.org
will receive an Award. Download an entry form: www.europanostra.org
* DISCLAIMER: Subject to the positive decision by the European Commission after
the completion of the current selection process for the partner organisation responsible
for the running of the EU Prize for Cultural Heritage in the next 7 years period 2015-2021.

Published by EUROPA NOSTRA Editor in Chief Production Websites EUROPA NOSTRA All rights reserved.
Wolter Braamhorst MYRA, Istanbul, Turkiye europanostra.org INTERNATIONAL SECRETARIAT
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in Europe Concept be reproduced in any material
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Review (May 2014) Articles written by without the prior written
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Damla Özlüer owners.
President Special Thanks
Plácido Domingo Österreichischer Burgenverein: Periodical Design The views expressed are those of
Alexander Graf Kottulinsky Tülay Demircan, Banu Y. Ocak The printing of Heritage in Motion
Executive President the authors and not necessarily
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Dorukhan Arslan
EUROPEAN HERITAGE CONGRESS
VIENNA, 2-6 MAY 2014
Under the Patronage of H.E. Dr. Heinz Fischer,
the Federal President of the Republic of Austria
W it h t h e K i n d C o o p e rat i o n a n d S u p p o r t o f :

C o n g re ss C o - O rga n i s e r s :

C o n g re ss S u p p o r t e r s :

C o n g re ss A ss o c i at e s :

W it h S p e c i a l T h a n k s t o :

M e d i a Pa r t n e r : Official Carriers:
EUROPA NOSTRA ANNUAL CONGRESS 2014
VIENNA, AUSTRIA, 2 – 6 MAY 2014
Under the Patronage of H.E. Dr. Heinz Fischer,

the Federal President of the Republic of Austria

COMMITTEE OF HONOUR

H.E. Cardinal Christoph Schönborn, Archbishop of Vienna


Werner Faymann, Federal Chancellor of Austria
José Manuel Barroso, President of the European Commission
Mag. Othmar Karas, M.B.L.-HSG, Vice-President of the European Parliament
Dr. Josef Ostermayer, Federal Minister of Art, Culture, Constitution and Public Affairs
Mag. Sebastian Kurz, Federal Minister of Foreign Affairs and Integration
Androulla Vassiliou, European Commissioner for Education, Culture, Multilingualism and Youth
Dr. Johannes Hahn, European Commissioner for Regional Policy
Dr. Hannes Swoboda, President of the Group of the Progressive Alliance of Socialists and Democrats in the European
Parliament
Chryssoula Aliferi, Designated Ambassador of the Hellenic Republic in Austria,
representing the Greek Presidency of the Council of the EU
Dr. Michael Häupl, Mayor and Governor of Vienna
Dr. Erwin Pröll, Governor of Lower Austria
Mag. Wilhelm Molterer, Vice-President of the European Investment Bank
Karel Schwarzenberg, Member of the Chamber of Deputies of the Czech Republic
Univ.-Prof. Dr. Ewald Nowotny, Governor of the Austrian Central Bank
Dr. Franz Fischler, President of the European Forum Alpbach
Dr. Erhard Busek, Chairman of the Institute for Danube Region and Central Europe
Mag. Richard Kühnel, Head of the European Commission Representation in Vienna
Dr. Barbara Neubauer, President of the Bundesdenkmalamt
Karl Habsburg-Lothringen, President of the Association of National Committees of the Blue Shield
Doraja Eberle, Chairwoman of the Board of the ERSTE Foundation
Martin Böhm, Managing Partner of Dorotheum
Alexander Kottulinsky, President of the Austrian Castles Association
Elisabeth Gürtler, Managing Director of the Spanish Riding School
Maestro Nikolaus Harnoncourt, Conductor
Sunnyi Melles, Theatre and film actress
Dr. Georg Springer, Chief Executive Officer of the Bundestheater Holding
Dr. Thomas Angyan, Intendant of the Gesellschaft der Musikfreunde in Wien
Dominique Meyer, Intendant of the Vienna State Opera
Welcome from the President
03

It is such a pleasure to welcome you to Austria and especially to


Vienna, one of my favourite cities in the world. How can I capture
this unique city in just a few words? How can I do justice - in just
few lines - to this ancient capital which has brought me decades of
joy and inspiration? This city of Mozart, of Strauss, of Schubert,
Beethoven, Haydn, Schönberg and of so many other musicians and
artists so close to my soul and my heart, breathes culture and art.
Its heritage is my oxygen, its music my language. Ever since 1967,
when I made my debut in Vienna, this has become one of my home
cities: I performed here 240 times as a singer and 44 times as a
conductor! I sang in all possible concert places, from the Staatsoper,
the Volksoper, the Theater an der Wien to the Musikverein and the
Konzerthaus, as well as in the open air in front of the Rathaus and in
Schönbrunn, at the Hofburg, in the Messepalast, the Austria Center,
the Stadthalle and even the Ernst Happel Stadion... Salzburg with its
world famous Festival is, of course, another favourite place of mine
in Austria. Both in Vienna and in Salzburg I have so many great
memories, so many unforgettable experiences for which I am deeply
grateful.
The choice of Vienna for this year’s annual congress, as well as the ceremony for the EU Prize for Cultural Heritage/Europa Nostra
Awards, is therefore full of meaning for me personally and also for Europa Nostra. This amazing city, proudly located in the heart
of Europe, shows us where cultural heritage belongs in the European project: in its very centre. In all our cities and towns, our
countryside, everywhere, cultural heritage offers opportunities for our society and for our economy that will help to keep Europe
together and to make Europe flourish against all odds.
The President of the European Commission José Manuel Barroso has demonstrated courage and determination by putting culture
and cultural heritage on the top of the European Agenda with his recent initiative A New Narrative for Europe, in which Europa
Nostra actively participates. You will learn more about it in this magazine from the President himself in conversation with our
Secretary General. Commissioner Androulla Vassiliou from Cyprus – who has been a true friend of Europe’s cultural heritage and a
true ally of Europa Nostra – shares with us her convictions and commitments for culture in Europe. Commissioner Johannes Hahn
from Austria also offers to our readers his vision on sustainable regional development with cultural heritage as its key resource.
A century after the outbreak of World War I, we realize that Europe’s often troubled past offers important lessons and urges us to
work every day for a better present and future, based on dialogue instead of conflict, sharing instead of dividing, building instead of
destroying. Our cultural heritage is at the heart of this complicated but essential dialogue with our history. However, our heritage is
not just our past, it is the key to Europe’s future. It is indeed at the heart of the New Narrative for Europe initiative and at the heart of
Europa Nostra’s values and ideals.
In this Austria Special of our magazine, you will (re)discover many gems of Europe’s heritage treasury; from family castles to
stunningly beautiful lakes, from green alpine meadows to snow topped mountains. Wonderful places that will capture your heart and
challenge your mind. You will also meet inspiring champions of Europe’s heritage; from the Monuments Men who saved Europe’s art
from the Nazis to Josef Schöffel who saved the Vienna Woods, from artists who created their own magical world to composers who
left their mark on so many generations of Europeans and also on people coming from other parts of the world. I hope that the many
interesting stories and interviews published in this Austria Special will delight, surprise and inspire you. We are very grateful to the
European Commission representation in Austria for financially supporting the printing of this issue of our magazine.
Monuments and sites, like music and art, are rooted in local circumstances and local history. The ‘sound of place’ can be heard in its
music and the ‘spirit of place’ can be felt in its art and architecture. But our heritage is also inspired by cultural influences from other,
more distant communities and territories. It is our shared heritage, our shared story, our shared narrative for Europe.
Vienna is one of those magical places where one can feel so strongly that we belong to a European community, to a European family
and that we are all part of this on-going European story. Welcome to Vienna, welcome to Austria, welcome to Europe!

Plácido Domingo, President of Europa Nostra


CONTENTS
08 “In the harmony of many lies the strength”

HERITAGE
LIVING
The life and legacy of Archduke John of Austria

IN DANGER
16 Sidetracked

HERITAGE
Austria’s favourite railway
under threat

HERITAGE
24 Five Star Heritage

LIVING
Discovering the Sacher,
Austria’s most famous hotel

MENTION
28 Capital

SPECIAL
Elegance
The restoration of the City Palace of
the Liechtenstein family

44 Klimt’s Studio

DREAMS
CITY
COUNTRY
DREAMS
48 Legendary Beauty.
Along the Traun river with
poet Richard Monckton
Milnes

52 The Sweetest Heritage


CULINARY

66 Among the other Viennese


A short story by Claudio
SHORT
STORY

Magris
106 Treasure Trove:

TREASURE
Kunstkammer Vienna

126 Europe is a State of Mind

PARTNER
Interview with José Manuel Barroso

132 Exclusive interview with European

PARTNER
Commissioner Androulla Vassiliou

136 A Bright Future for the

PARTNER
Past:
Austrian Castle Association

140 Exclusive interview with European


PARTNER

Commissioner Johannes Hahn

The Nature of Things: The Wonderful Still Smoking Hot... The tobacco The Slalom of Alpine Conservation / 102
World of Hundertwasser / 12 factory in Linz / 76 Natural Partners: Thayatal / 110
The Home of Id and Oedipus / 20 Strong Coffee / 80 Peace of Mind: Bertha von Suttner / 114
Treasure Hunt The real story of George Klosterneuburg / 84 Rest in Peace / 118
Clooney’s Monuments Men / 32 Favourite Things The story behind The ideals of ERSTE Foundation / 122
The Art of MQ / 36 the Sound of Music / 86 Saving the Jewel of the Taferlberg / 130
Along the Danube River / 40 Dorotheum Auction house / 90 The 7 Most Endangered 2014 / 144
Saving the Vienna Woods / 56 A House for All Seasons: Ernst
Then & Now / 60 Fuchs Museum / 94
Panorama Austria / 72 “I wander lonely in this world”
The world of Empress Sisi / 98
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08 It is difficult to find
LIVING HERITAGE

someone more fascinated


by the world around him
than Archduke John of
Austria (1782 – 1859). He is
the personification of the
power of example and his
legacy can still be found
everywhere in Austria,
not only through the
people who are directly
descended from him, but
also through the many
institutions, businesses,
collections and museums
he left behind.

Archduke John 1849 © Fritz und


Julie Vogel, Frankfurt am Main

“In the harmony of


many lies the strength”

The Legacy of
Archduke John
Insurance
company
entrance of Austria
09

To follow in the footsteps of this and the Landesoberrealschule. He Stainz castle


courtyard
extraordinary man we follow those strongly believed that important
of one of his great-grandchildren, things could be accomplished Entrance
Joanneum
Count Franz Harnoncourt- if people just work together in
Museum
Unverzagt (b.1937). Like his older harmony for the greater good.
brother, conductor Nikolaus “In the harmony of many lies
Harnoncourt, Franz Harnoncourt the strength, which results in
is a direct descendant of Archduke good. It is the task of every one to
John, the 13th child of the Emperor contribute to it,” he is quoted as
Leopold II and brother of Holy saying in 1846. The city of Graz
Roman Emperor Franz I. with its beautifully restored centre
is very much still his city. But also,
Harnoncourt - a lawyer and outside Graz, we can still see the
former President of the Board of result of his vision. His routing
Grazer Wechselseitige Insurance for instance of the Austrian
in Graz, a company which was Southern Railway from Vienna
started by the Archduke in 1828 - to Trieste over the Semmering is
is very proud of his ancestor. His still celebrated today through its
insurance company celebrates a inclusion in the UNESCO World
history of 180 years and is active in Heritage List (see also elsewhere
13 countries. It is certainly not the in this magazine). John may have
only successful undertaking of the and botany and was an avid been a traditionalist who had a
multidisciplinary John of Austria alpinist and hunter. He founded fondness for history, but his open
to have survived to the present the Joanneum Museum in 1811 character and great curiosity
day. as well as the predecessor of made him a sort of naturally born
Graz University of Technology. liberal. He found himself often in
After a military career, John He started the Styrian State conflict with the Habsburg court,
developed a great interest Archive, the Styrian Society for especially after he had fallen in
for nature, technology and Agriculture and educational love and, in 1829, married, Anna
agriculture. He collected minerals, institutions such as the Berg- und Maria Plochl - she was considered
was interested in agriculture Hüttenmännische Lehranstalt below his rank.
10 we find the personal papers of
LIVING HERITAGE

Archduke John and other family


members. Harnoncourt’s own
papers are part of this collection.
His ancestor’s letters are written
in a neat hand and reveal his
interest in machinery and
technology.

Detail Archduke John’s handwriting

The Universalmuseum Joanneum


in the centre of Graz is a museum
for everybody. To enter the
Archduke’s large collection we
take an escalator down below the
central square, an example of
architecture which is in harmony
with its historic surroundings.
In the large stately rooms and
the display cases filled with the
wonders of the world, you can still
feel the spirit of the man with the
thousand hobbies.

Harnoncourt’s mother is Ladislaja,


Countess of Meran and his direct
relatives are still living in Schloss
Stainz, not far from Graz. The
Franz Franz Harnoncourt-Unverzagt, Karmeliterplatz in the centre of former Baroque monastery was
Harnoncourt
in front of his dressed in his dark green Austrian Graz. His tracht is something that purchased by Archduke John in
ancestor loden jacket and his traditional John would have approved of. He 1840. He was an experienced and
felt hat with several hunting himself was famous for wearing enthusiastic hunter - another
badges decorating the back, takes the traditional Styrian clothes. In trait he shares with many of his
us to the archive located in the the beautifully restored archive descendants - and spent 40,000
11
Stainz castle
exterior

guilders on the castle to use it as the opening of the Styrian Hunting


a hunting lodge. Stainz castle has Museum, in which contemporary
stayed in the family ever since technology is combined with
his death in 1859 and the present historic equipment, weapons and
Count of Meran still lives there. animals to explore the historical,
sociological and anthropological
Harnoncourt still remembers history of hunting. It was
vividly playing as a child on the followed in 2009 by the Museum
grounds of this imposing castle of Agriculture and Forestry
in the middle of the sleepy village displaying collections of rural
of Stainz where John was once Styrian folk culture.
mayor. It is a magnificently located
fortress which still has the feel of As Harnoncourt looks out over the
a monastery. The rich and ornate wineries which cover the hill of
16th century Baroque church with the Stainz Castle, his eyes suggest
extensive stucco decoration is still a slight feeling of nostalgia. In
in use today. The large reception this late afternoon sun you can
rooms of the castle are now the easily see the resemblance to his
home of two of the Archduke’s ancestor, that great legendary
historical collections; 2006 saw moderniser who became an
example of Austrian’s strength
of community and a symbol for
Austrian’s cultural heritage.
Hunting Museum
12
OPINION

The Nature of Things:

The Wonderful
World of
Hundertwasser

Hundertwasserhaus
in Vienna
Kuchlbauer 13
tower in
Abensberg

Hundertwasser
in 1998

At the end of a typical Vienna street, lined with grey


19th century houses, we encounter what at first sight
seems a colourful do-it-yourself experiment that has
gone nuclear, as if the builders of new council flats had
suddenly started to imitate Antoni Gaudi - a notion
far less removed from the truth than we may think.
These buildings dating back to the 1980s are the result
of the difficult cooperation between Friedensreich
Hundertwasser (1928-2000) and Vienna’s city council
architect Josef Krawina.
The apartment complex is as the visitors. Normally this part of on developed an anti-totalitarian
overwhelming as it is controversial. Vienna is an oasis of peace and quiet sensitivity which would become the
Chinese tourists have their on a rainy Sunday morning, but here emotional centre of his artistry. He
pictures taken by tourists from in front of the Hundertwasserhaus loved spirals and natural forms and
Brazil and vice versa. It looks nine o’clock is already rush hour. abhorred straight lines which he
like a spontaneous international described as ‘the devil’s tools.’ His
gathering in a Viennese suburb. Friedensreich Regentag Dunkelbunt work combines bright colours with
There is a lot of enthusiasm Hundertwasser (1928-2000) organic forms and an enthusiastic
and laughter. It is clear that the was born Friedrich Stowasser in use of tiles. He even changed his
assembly of colourful buildings are Vienna. As result of his experiences name to an eco-friendly and peace-
striking an emotional chord with during the Nazi regime, he early loving version; Peace-rich Rainy
14
OPINION

Saw mill in Day Darkly Colourful Hundred that preventing another ugly it was decided that Hundertwasser
Lower Austria
Water. It is easy to see the influence building being constructed was a was the spiritual creator of the
of the Vienna Secession, Egon good enough investment. He saw Hundertwasserhaus and Krawina
Schiele and Gustav Klimt in his himself as an ‘architecture doctor’ was a co-creator of equal standing
work. Hundertwasser focusses more and the ‘doctor’ was very clear and the royalties should be split in
on the response of the viewer than about what he thought was the best half.
on the artist making a statement, medicine. He strongly believed
in a sense it is a form of altruistic that the rational modernist ideas But despite the usual practical
architecture. in the tradition of famous Austrian and legal problems that are
architect Alfred Loos (1870 - 1933) unavoidable in any architectural
Hundertwasser’s commercial lead to an ‘imprisoned, enslaved, project Hundertwasser managed to
success came in the 1950s with an standardised man’ and demanded create and inspire some remarkable
exhibition of his brightly coloured creative and individual forms of buildings. They somehow manage
paintings in Vienna. He slowly architecture. Human misery was to bring a smile to the face of most
became much more than just partially the result of sterile and vistors and tourists, from the saw
an artist and his work became a monotonous architecture and he mill in the Waldviertel in Lower
reflection of his life, his ideas, his called for a complete boycott of this Austria to the Markthalle in Thal
ideals. He was an activist and an style of building. in Switzerland, the Green Citadel
environmentalist who campaigned of Magdeburg or the Kuchlbauer
against nuclear power and to protect The city of Vienna decided to take Tower in Abensberg in Germany
the oceans and the rain forests. He up the challenge and invited him (both completed after his death). In
was also a designer of flags, stamps, to create an apartment building. the 1970s Hundertwasser acquired a
coins, posters and even clothing, but Because Hundertwasser was more large property in the Bay of Islands
it was his architecture that would an artist than an architect the City in New Zealand where he worked on
eventually make him world famous. of Vienna partnered him with Josef realising his ideal of a completely
Krawina to translate his conceptual sustainable life with roofs of grass
The Hundertwasserhaus apartment drawings into practical building and solar panels in harmony with
building is a colouring book of stone manuals. And, as success has many the abundant natural surroundings.
and tiles, with grass on the roofs, fathers and failure is an orphan,
trees growing out of the walls and the international sensation the Hundertwasser died aboard the
uneven floors to create ‘a melody building stirred up also stirred up Queen Elizabeth 2 aged 71 and was
to the feet.’ Hundertwasser did a legal problem about the precise buried in his adopted country of
not ask for money as he believed ownership of the design. In the end New Zealand.
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Turkey:
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THE NETHERLANDS AND TURKEY:


400 YEARS OF POLITICAL, ECONOMICAL,
TREASURED HERITAGE SOCIAL AND CULTURAL RELATIONS
The Residence of the Turkish Alexander H. de Groot
Ambassador in the Hague

TURKEY AND EUROPE - AN EXAMPLE


Alessandro Missir di Lusignano

THE TURKISH AMBASSADOR’S RESIDENCE AND


THE CULTURAL HISTORY OF WASHINGTON, D.C.
Skip Moskey, Caroline Mesrobian Hickman,
John Edward Hasse

AYDIN DOGAN INTERNATIONAL


CARTOON COMPETITION ALBUMS
30 YEARS OF AN INTERNATIONAL
CARTOON COMPETITION 2012 A YEAR TO REMEMBER:
The Celebrations of the 400th Anniversary
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www.myra.com.tr
16
Semmering Kalte
HERITAGE IN DANGER

Rinne Viaduct,
photo by Christian
Schuhböck

Sidetracked
UNESCO Semmering Railway under Threat
17

threatened by the Semmering


Vienna and Graz in Lower base tunnel, as a potential World
Austria. Built between 1848 and Heritage site. The submission
1854 it is a Gesamtkunstwerk took UNESCO in Paris completely
of harmony between nature, by surprise. So far only historical
culture and technology. The monuments and city ensembles
Semmering Railway represents an were considered to be eligible.
The great age of the railways outstanding technological solution Finally in 1998, Semmering Semmering
Krausel-Klause
saw the construction of tens of to the physical problems in the became the first railway to be Viaduct
thousands of kilometres of track construction of early railways included in the World Heritage
which - like capillaries of iron - resulting in a cultural landscape of list, with an area of about 8,800
brought the necessary oxygen to the highest quality. No wonder this ha, including the mountain
the industrial revolution. Hitherto attractive industrial and natural railway itself and the surrounding
unaccessible parts of Europe were heritage was an early contestant cultural landscape.
suddenly unlocked for trade and to be included in the UNESCO
industry, for new ideas and new World Heritage list. Austria was The 41 kilometres of rail track,
business. We could now travel in relatively late in signing the UN with high standards in both
style from Paris to Istanbul, from treaty as politicians feared that tunnels and viaducts, have
Moscow to London, from Rome to signing could hinder powerplant ensured the continuous use of the
Berlin. The different peoples and development. Only after political line up to the present day. The
cultures of Europe were starting to pressure from the organization spectacular mountain landscape
connect for the first time. for landscape protection Alliance dotted with historic villages,
for Nature, Austria finally signed rivers and stunning natural sights
One of the greatest feats of railway in 1993, more than twenty years is a major tourist destination.
engineering and pioneering can after the General Conference A perfect example of heritage
be found in the mountains of of UNESCO adopted the World preservation for the rest of Europe
Austria. The Semmering Railway Heritage Convention. and the world, one would think.
slithers like a large mechanical But for some years now tricks
snake through a stunning cultural Immediately Alliance for Nature have been used, on several levels,
landscape, roughly between suggested the Semmering Railway, to build a new double-tube tunnel
18
HERITAGE IN DANGER

extent have been deleted from


the World Heritage List. If the
Republic of Austria continues with
the dismantling of the Semmering
Railway UNESCO World Heritage
site it will - according to par.165 of
the UNESCO Guidelines - have to
approximately one third of its prepare a new submission based
original size through a step-by- on the 156 ha. This nomination
step approach. Some officials are would not stand much chance of
of the opinion that only the 156 ha being viewed in a positive light.
of the core zone of the Semmering If the plans to replace the historic
Semmering rail with a length of 28 km between Railway is World Heritage. Semmering Railway with a new
road landscape
Gloggnitz (Lower Austria) and The cultural landscape of great tunnel succeed, it could lead to the
Mürzzuschlag (Styria), well within natural beauty of more than shutting-down and potential decay
the protected UNESCO World 8,500 ha, once at the very heart of this important mountain and
Heritage site. of the UNESCO World Heritage landscape railway. A masterpiece
submission, is now slowly of human creative genius may be
UNESCO had included the degraded to a so-called buffer lost forever.
Semmering Railway on the zone. ICOMOS (International
basis that the rail track and its Council on Monuments and Sites), Much of the factual information
surrounding cultural landscape which had evaluated the site for in this article was based on a
were equally important and UNESCO, had stated that the court expert statement on the
equally valuable. It was the railway as well as its surrounding Semmering Railway by Christian
unique combination of the two landscape fulfilled the criteria Schuhböck. In 2002 HRH the
that made the Semmering Railway of outstanding universal value Prince Consort of Denmark,
stand out as World Heritage. But – on an equal ranking. But now then President of Europa Nostra,
politicians and officials are now Austrian politicians, including decorated Schuhböck with the
proposing a bit-by-bit dismantling representatives of the Federal Europa Nostra Medal for his
of the Semmering Railway. Ministry of Education, Arts and work as Secretary-General of
Not by confrontation but by Culture, are quoted in leading the Austrian Alliance for Nature
shrewd manoeuvring the door is newspapers as claiming that organisation. Christian Schuhböck
slowly pried open to build a new “the landscape has never been is a landscape ecologist and
Semmering base tunnel (SBTn) part of the World Heritage.” The laureate of the Austrian state
which will result in large-scale 156 ha constitutes a reduction of prize for environment protection
interventions within the protected the original area by 98%. Other and the author of many books,
area. The cultural landscape sites across the globe which have including one on Semmering
has already been reduced to reduced the protected area to that Railroad.
Stainz castle
exterior

COOPERATION Wiki Loves Monuments


A strong collaboration has emerged between the BDA and the
BUNDESDENKMALAMT, authors of the online encyclopedia Wikipedia. The Austrian
Wikipedia community has set itself the task of providing photos
WIKIMEDIA ÖSTERREICH and geodata for objects on the BDA’s monument list; no small
AND WIKIPEDIA task when faced with 37,208 protected monuments. Within the
framework of our co-operation a special Austrian category
The online encyclopedia Wikipedia spreads knowledge and has been created within Wiki Loves Monuments, the world’s
sees itself as a global education project without commercial largest photo competition. This forms part of Heritage Day,
interests. It gathers knowledge and preserves it in digitalized form. offering generous prizes that are handed out in a ceremony every
Digitalization projects should create open access to our cultural November at the Hofburg in Vienna. The result is thousands
heritage. But what exactly is meant by open access, and what form of high-quality photos of cultural monuments, which not only
might it take? illustrate the relevant Wikipedia article but are also available to
everybody under free license.
The Bundesdenkmalamt (BDA, Federal Office for the Protection
of Monuments) and Wikimedia Austria have responded to Digitalization of historical literature
these questions with free licenses for digital data, images, and With the help of two large-format scanners sponsored by
documents.The contents can be used by anybody, but also modified Wikimedia, work has also begun on a pilot project to digitalize the
or incorporated into other platforms. These subsequent users are nineteenth-century holdings of the BDA library. The material will
obliged to refer to the source and license of any document they use. then be made freely available via the media archive Wikimedia
Readers or viewers are thus able to establish the original source. Commons.
The Home
20
TREASURE

of Id and
Oedipus

Entrance to the
museum
21
Ornamental
staircase

Entering Berggasse 19
you can easily imagine
the anxiety the patients
and even some colleagues
must have felt, walking up
the ornamental staircase
to the stern-looking door
inscribed with the name
Docent Dr. Sigm.Freud.
The Freud Museum not only tells globe. And progress was quick.
the history of the ideas and research Within ten years psychoanalysis
of Sigmund Schlomo Freud (1856- had taken the world by storm.
1939) but has also recreated the As the movement conquered
atmosphere of Freud’s house as it the world, Freud was lauded
was in 1938 when he left Vienna for as a prophet leading the way
London. The Berggasse was Freud’s into mankind’s inner workings.
home for more than 45 years and Journals and magazines filled
his spirit has somehow never left with Freud’s research and case
the premises. His hat and cane, studies flourished. His books were
his furniture and the typewriter translated into many languages.
he used for The Interpretation of
Dreams are still here. His famous By 1911 Freud had travelled to the
couch is in London. USA, where his theories proved a
perfect fit for an American society
The Sigmund Freud Foundation, coming to terms with the nation’s
responsible for Freud’s legacy new identity as a world power. It is
in Vienna, has added hundreds hard to imagine American popular
of square feet to the original culture without psychoanalysis as
apartment over the years. Freud’s one of its historical anchor points.
reception rooms are relatively
small and sober. A collection of But slowly cracks started to
ancient artefacts are displayed appear on the harmonious surface
next to a large, tiled heater in of the organization. Members
the same way as can be seen on of the original group and early
old photographs. This is in a enthusiasts like Alfred Adler
very real sense the place where and famously Carl Jung started
psychoanalysis was born. Since their own schools of thought and
1902 a small group of followers Freud had to put a lot of effort
have come together here every into the theoretical coherence of
Wednesday to discuss psychology the psychoanalytic movement.
and Freud’s theories. From humble By 1920 the single river Freud
beginnings his ideas started to had set out on had changed into
get noticed in universities and a wide delta of opinions and
scientific societies across the interpretations.
22
TREASURE

Door to
apartment of Dr.
Freud

Ancient
artefacts

When the Nazis took over admired by the world as a pioneer Freud and his ideas are
Germany and later Austria, Freud of the human subconscious, he nonetheless a lasting legacy
was late in realising the danger received the likes of Salvador Dalí, of the 20th century, a cultural
he and his family were in. But in H.G. Wells and Virginia Woolf heritage treasure of the human
the end he was persuaded by his until an illness related to a lifetime mind that, imagined or not, had a
friends to leave. His four elder of smoking finally caught up with real impact on society and on our
sisters did not survive the war but him. He continued to see patients ideas about our most inner and
Freud would not be a witness of until the very end. private thoughts. Freud’s scientific
the horrors of World War II, the credentials may have taken a
darkest side of the human soul Over the last hundred years Freud’s beating, but his Vienna home
that he undoubtedly could have ideas have been continuously and museum are a permanent
shed some light on. questioned and reinterpreted. reminder that his cultural
Especially in recent years, the importance and significance is
London would not be his home scientific basis of his methods have beyond doubt.
for long. Now in his eighties and come under extreme scrutiny.
ERSTE Foundation
In 2003, ERSTE Foundation evolved out of
the Erste Oesterreichische Spar-Casse, the
first Austrian savings bank. Currently, ERSTE
Foundation is the main shareholder of Erste
Group. The foundation invests part of its
dividends in the development of societies in
Austria and Central and South Eastern Europe.
Advertisement
It supports social participation and civil-society
engagement; it aims to bring people together

ERSTE
and disseminate knowledge of the recent history
of a region that has been undergoing dramatic
changes since 1989. As an active foundation, it
STIFTUNG
develops its own projects within the framework
of three programmes: Social Development,
Culture and Europe.

What would you Social Development, www.erstestiftung.org


change? Culture, Europe.
24
LIVING HERITAGE

Five Star Heritage

The Magic of the Sacher


Elisabeth Gürtler-Mauthner gracefully sits down on
the elegant furniture of the Hotel Sacher, Vienna’s
legendary five star hotel. A guest from New York
immediately recognises the impeccably dressed
manager and extensively thanks her for hospitality.
It is a telling moment in the personal relationship
between the capital’s famous heritage hotel and its
demanding clients. Gürtler-Mauthner acknowledges
Elisabeth this special bond. She has been running the Sacher for
Gürtler-
Mauthner almost 25 years.

“My guests expect me to come The Sacher was started in 1876 Tragedy struck when Peter Gürtler
and say hello and goodbye. If you by Eduard Sacher, the son of took his own life in 1990 and left
are ambitious, and I am, it’s 12 Franz Sacher, the inventor of the his two children, Alexandra and
months a year, 24 hours a day. It is famous Sachertorte, and later run Georg Gürtler, then too young to
very tiring, but you have to know by his widow Anna who made it take over the business.
what is going on, you have to be into one of the finest hotels in the
personally involved.” She shows world. It was so exclusive that Elisabeth Gürtler: “I had been
remarkable commitment for only aristocrats could stay here. divorced for seven years (from
someone who never planned to run Not the best of business decisions Peter Gürtler). I had my own
the hotel. maybe, and in 1934 the hotel was life. I was happily working at my
taken over by the Gürtler family. father’s trading company. You do
25

Reception

not expect something like this


to happen. My children were too
young and not capable so I had
to step in. It was my children’s
property. I worked, and still work,
for them.”

But taking over the Sacher was


not an easy job. “To start with, I
used to work until two o’clock in
my father’s business and then go
to the Sacher. But nothing was
changing. The hotel was behind
with the times. The more you
start to interfere, the more you get
into it and all of a sudden I found
myself here all the time. My sister to stay the night there. It is be much bigger nowadays, so you Lobby
took over my old job.” comfortable to stay as you are, but have to move walls and enlarge
as well as passing on knowledge rooms. You have to keep up with
The Sacher was a heritage treasure and tradition, you have to adapt what newly built hotels have
and a well-established institution. to the needs of today. Hotels were to offer; wireless connections
Gürtler is very resolute about her obviously very different in 1876. obviously but also a mirror which
attitude towards the business. The requirements of luxury hotels doubles as flat-screen TV for
“People love to look at and visit have changed dramatically. The instance. Many of the historic
a museum but they do not want bathrooms for instance have to hotels cannot keep up. To give you
26
LIVING HERITAGE

another example, it is necessary to


keep updating your fire systems,
but you cannot do that when you
have guests. You have to close
and you need to generate a profit
Memorabilia to be able to do that. Many hotels that a five star hotel with an not to change? Who will pay the
hallway Hotel
Sacher cannot compete any more.” international reputation, a bill? Sorry, but it does not work!
favourite of the rich and famous, Imagine, no girls were allowed in
Inner courtyard
Not everybody immediately saw cannot leave anything to chance. the Spanish Riding School in the
Spanish Riding
School it her way when she started out “A leading hotel can not be below 1990s. ‘Why do we need all these
as an untested hotel manager. standard. We have secret checks silly girls, we did without them
“They were of course terribly executed on a regular basis. The for centuries,’ they said. Well,
polite. Madame this and that, but bar is set higher and higher and it changed. A new generation is
I did not get real information. I you have to stay alert. When coming now. It is a wonderful
insisted on having information. I check the rooms and I find location for business events.”
So we created a specialized audit something which is not perfect, I’ll
system which enabled me to clean or fix it myself. You have to Elisabeth Gürtler’s dedication to
see the profit and loss of each do it immediately, you cannot wait the Sacher Hotels and the Riding
individual department. They used for someone else to do it for you.” School are legendary in Vienna
to say ‘We are the Sacher. We do not The people working at the Sacher society. But when I ask her about
need a sales department’ but you are loyal and dedicated. “Either the future, she hesitates for a
cannot wait for the phone to ring. you leave after a few months or moment, the weight of the five
Our guests were getting older and you become part of the family star hotel business for one brief
older. There was a lot of opposition and stay for 20-30 years. You gain moment seems to rest heavily
in 1990s, the old management was experience, education and training on her shoulders: “My children
against all modernisation saying you cannot get anywhere else.” should be taking over already. It
things such as ‘We do not need a would be very stupid of them not
minibar in the rooms, you can ring She took the same hands-on to do it. I have decided to retire and
a bell and someone will come and approach when considering the I am waiting for their decision. I
provide you with what you want.’ new Hotel Sacher in Salzburg think the time is right.”
Well, it doesn’t work that way and the famous Spanish Riding
anymore. There were no girls in School which she also manages. With the long standing tradition
the restaurant and this was 1990! She says with a smile: “It was an and the excellent example
We had to change.” absolute shock for them to have their mother has set, the next
a woman in charge. The Riding generation will have every chance
And they did. The Sacher has School is a place full of traditions, to guarantee a solid and fortunate
been on top of the game for many but not everything can stay the future for the legendary Hotel
years now. Gürtler understands way it is forever. Can you afford Sacher.
New York. New York.
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28

Capital
SPECIAL MENTION

Elegance
The Restoration
of City Palace

HSH Prince Constantin von


und zu Liechtenstein (1972)
received us in his light, shiny
It was no small feat. With over 8,500 new offices located in the palace
to talk about the details of the
m2 floor space to repair and renew, the
renovation. The white walls are
restoration of the Liechtenstein City adorned with a copy of a famous
Palace called for - to quote a few figures painting of a little girl sleeping
(depicting one of his ancestors)
- 682,000 kg reinforced steel, 150,000 - the original can be seen in the
sheets of gold leaf and at least 470,000 m museum gallery of the palace -
of electric cable. 80% of the lights were and a photograph of Taormina,
Sicily (where he met his wife,
converted to LED lighting to save energy. Countess Marie Kálnoky de He is the CEO of the Foundation
The whole building was brought up to Kőröspatak). Prince Liechtenstein and runs the
modern standards, while the building’s foundation’s various companies,
Prince Constantin is the 3rd son active in the fields of agriculture,
historic charm and the beautiful centuries- of Hans Adam II, the Sovereign forestry and energy production
old patina were carefully preserved. of the House of Liechtenstein. in Austria and elsewhere. The
Entrance to the 29
City Palace

Castle
Foundation manages roughly There was good mix between Liechtenstein
19,600 hectares of agricultural our life in the city and the
Prince
and forestry land, a vineyard and a countryside. Of course as Constantin
variety of real estate properties in teenagers we loved the big city. von und zu
Austria, including Liechtenstein I did my internship in Vienna. Liechtenstein

Castle on the edge of the Here I worked for an private equity


Wienerwald. The austere-looking fund. I became actively involved in
castle near Maria Enzersdorf the family business. I first worked
is the origin of the name of the on the banking side, but since 2012
Liechtenstein family. The official I have been responsible for all the
residence of the family is Vaduz non-banking business, real estate,
Castle in Liechtenstein, but the agriculture, forestry, wineries.”
bonds with Austria are strong.
The Prince is comfortable in his
“As a child I grew up in role as the family’s real estate and
Liechtenstein, but we would business manager and, while he
spend our holidays in Vienna, shows us around the magnificent
visiting the Prater, the historic palace, he talks with enthusiasm
city centre, and the palaces. about the challenges and
30
SPECIAL MENTION

Marble painting opportunities of the Liechtenstein “We started planning the plaster; the world-famous Thonet
family foundation. The stylish restoration of the City Palace in floors were repaired through
grandeur of the City Palace is 2007 and we finished in 2013. The painstaking and detailed work; a
stunning. Hallways with heavy, state of the palace was worse than weaving loom capable of weaving
colourful drapes lead from one we had originally thought. The around 20,000 threads was
ornamental room to the next, introduction of a steel support purchased to replicate individual
all filled with period furniture construction, the building of new wall hangings. The restoration is
and textile wallpapers, historic foundations, it all took us a little a true example of monumental
paintings, chandeliers and gilded longer than we had planned and preservation in the capital city.
ceilings . But all is not what it was more cumbersome than we had
seems. The marble decorations expected. I remember coming here “Originally the palace was built
turn out to be delicately painted as a boy at the end of the 1970s. My on an empty plot against the city
wooden panels, probably more grandfather was still here then, wall. There used to be a wall right
beautiful than real stone could our family apartment was on the here protecting the city against the
ever be. In one of the golden rooms 3rd floor. The private rooms were Ottomans. They threw a lot over
a team is busy getting ready for a simple, without much modern the wall. It was like a dumping
business event. Elegant chairs are comfort. In the 1980s my father ground, but as a result this central
lined up, audio equipment tested decided to build a penthouse, but part of Vienna was not built on.”
and tables dressed. The massive the family only used a small part
chandelier hangs lightly in the of the palace. The larger part of The City Palace is considered to be
middle of the room as an illusion of the building was rented out to the Vienna’s first Baroque building.
crystalline reflection. Ministry of Education. I remember Eight years after the second siege
the dark and gloomy atmosphere of Vienna by the Ottomans, when
“When we started the restoration, of typical government offices and the destruction of the city’s centre
the largest of the palace’s the staff apartments. After the was still clearly visible, Count
chandeliers was missing. We found ministry finally left, the building Dominik Andreas Kaunitz, the
bits of it, in an antique dealer’s, needed a large scale renovation to State Chancellor and a patron
just by accident. We manage to bring it back to its former glory.” of the arts, began work on the
retrace all the missing pieces and construction of the palace. In 1694
put it back together again. It has To give a few examples of the and still in the construction phase,
now been restored to its original daunting task: the lime-based Prince Johann Adam Andreas I
splendour.” façade paints, similarly to a fresco, of Liechtenstein purchased the
were applied to the still damp lime building and had it completed as a
31

Main room
getting ready for
an event

Wooden floors
after restoration

Wooden
floors before
restoration

city palace by the Roman architect Prince Constantin:“In everything open to the public, but now, just
Domenico Martinelli, with work we do we try to take a long as the City Palace, we open
by the stucco artist Santino term view. We want to keep our it for special occasions and private
Bussi, the sculptor Giovanni businesses sustainable and for that tours. We host a large number
Giuliani and the painters Andrea we need a good balance between of public and private functions
Lanzani and Antonio Bellucci. business and environmental and rent the Palace out for
On the Bankgasse side of the concerns. We have hundreds of corporate and private events.
building Martinelli created the years of history and we try to We obviously want to make
first monumental Baroque portal strike the right balance between money, but it has to be done in a
in Vienna. Prince Johann Adam keeping the business profitable sustainable way, keeping, again,
Andreas I had bought and built the and holding on to our cultural the right balance. The security
palace as a family residence and so heritage, to find a synergy costs, the air-conditioning, the
it continued for many centuries. between our financial services, upkeep all has to be taken into
In 1945, in the final days of the our strong company brand and account. Last year the Garden
war, the palace suffered a direct tradition, while at the same time Palace had 160 events and,
hit by bombs and an airplane differentiating our markets and since we re-opened after the
crashed into the roof. Temporary branching out into new territories. restoration, the City Palace has
work was carried out to repair Beside the City Palace we also have hosted 240 events already, and
the worst damage, mainly aimed the Garden Palace. The Garden counting!”
at creating offices which could Palace (which was also completely
be rented out. A full restoration restored ed.) was not designed as The restoration of the
was never carried out due to a family home. There are no living Liechtenstein City Palace received
economic pressures. But now the quarters, no private apartments. a Special Mention in the EU Prize
Liechtenstein City Palace has once It was and still is mostly a for Cultural heritage / Europa
more returned to its glory days. representative space. It used to be Nostra Awards 2014
32
FICTION & FACT

Treasure Hunt
The Story of the Monuments Men
Workers and
Monuments wants, and that’s exactly what
Men on the we’re fighting for,” Lt. Frank
bomb crates,
Stokes says in Monuments Men,
photo Robert
Posey Collection the film directed by and starring
George Clooney. It is a film like
Monuments
Men with few others, with a star -studded
Clooney, cast of Hollywood’s finest, loosely
Damon, Murray
retelling the story of one of the
and Goodman
most important art recovery
missions in history.

The Nazis raped Europe’s


museums and art collections,
sometimes for their own private
gain, sometimes in the name of the
Führer, who dreamed of building
a museum of what he considered
to be good art. Across Europe art
“You can wipe out an entire way back. But if you destroy objects were stolen to one day fill
generation, you can burn their their history, you destroy their the Führer’s Museum and Führer’s
homes to the ground, and achievements, then it’s as if they Library in Hitler’s beloved Linz in
somehow they’ll still find their never existed. That’s what Hitler Austria.
33

Even before the Americans clock and against destruction. In Salt mine
Altaussee with
entered the war some art the last days of the war the Nazis
works of art,
historians and experts began were willing to rather blow up photo Robert
to worry about how to protect some of their repositories than to Posey Collection

European art and cultural heritage hand them over. The Monuments
George Leslie Stout from the Nazis. And in 1943 Men discovered over a 1,000
Francis Henry Taylor, director of treasure troves and managed to
“To me, mankind, a vast family of
creatures, is growing inevitably the Metropolitan Museum of Art, recover an estimated 5 million
towards a state of civilization. convinced President Franklin cultural items and works of art.
I believe that in time long past,
there started among us an appetite Roosevelt to establish a special Even years after the end of the war
for understanding and fairness. programme under the Civil a small group of 60 still continued
We began to learn mercy, to love
others, to seek truth, to inquire Affairs and Military Government to search and document.
after knowledge, and to find Sections of the Allied armies to
contentment in the song of a bird,
or the shape of a hill against the
help protect cultural property in One of the largest repositories
sky. We began to look for justice in Europe’s war zones. The so-called was hidden in a maze of salt mine
the government of our affairs, to
Monuments Men were originally shafts near Altaussee in Austria.
tell about the meanings of our life
together, to laugh at our follies. And a group of over 300 art experts, The depot contained 6,500 stolen
we began to make things that would
artists and architects, men and and looted paintings, as well as
contain some of the meanings we
found and hold them in words or women from different countries. furniture, weapon collections,
paint or stone.” The Monuments, Fine Arts and books, ancient coins and priceless
George Leslie Stout (1897 – 1978),
one of the original Monuments Men Archives Section unit, or MFAA statues. Michelangelo’s Madonna
for short, started a race against the of Bruges, Jan van Eyck’s Ghent
34 Linz today
FICTION & FACT

of tyrants, and people beg them


for comfort and for peace. But
when I look beyond the weak
spots, I can notice those men
who pursue knowledge for the
common benefit, or labor for
sound structures rather than for
gain, or fight and die not for praise
or possessions but for the freedom
of others. These are not strange or
distant to men.”

The Monuments Men and


Altaussee Altarpiece and Vermeer’s The exact reason we are fighting, for women had a lasting effect in
today, photo by
Svíčková Astronomer and The Art of culture, for a way of life.” the USA too, becoming the
Painting were among them. It was directors and curators of world
Memorial
against War and an almost unbelievable important The character Clooney plays is renowned museums including the
Fascism on the collection and rigged to collapse loosely based on George Leslie Metropolitan and the MOMA in
Albertinaplatz
at any moment. Some of the Stout (1897 – 1978), an American New York to name but a few.
in Vienna.
crates were marked as Attention - art specialist and museum director
Marble - Do Not Drop, but actually and member of the Monuments The Monuments Men still
contained 1,100 pound bombs. Men. He is one of the idealists exist today in the form of the
who risked their lives for the Monuments Men Foundation
Their role in not only recovering greatest treasure hunt in history. for the Preservation of Art. The
and returning art to their His motivation was clear: “I Hollywood film is based on a book
rightful owners but also in have to admit that man’s growth by the foundation’s President
rebuilding cultural life in many toward civilization looks slow Robert M. Edsel, Monuments Men:
of the desperate and devastated and unsteady. At moments, whole Allied Heroes, Nazi Thieves and the
countries of Europe has had a nations seem to fall back, their Greatest Treasure Hunt in History.
lasting impact. Or as Clooney says people fret for deliverance from
as Lt. Frank Stokes in the film: selfish fears. They pay homage www.
“They tell us, ‘who cares about to persons who have snatched monumentsmenfoundation.org
art?’ But they’re wrong, it is the power for themselves, all manner www.monumentsmen.com
L In Syria, the famous minaret of the Great Mosque of Aleppo

UNESCO:
– a UNESCO World Heritage Site – was destroyed by fighting in April 2013
© AP/SIPA

protecting culture under attack


The Djinguereber
Mosque in Mali.
Reconstruction
Destroying culture hurts
has started with
UNESCO’s help
societies for the long term.
© UNESCO
That is why protecting heritage is
a security issue and a vital part
of efforts to build lasting
peace and reconciliation.
Irina Bokova, Director-General of UNESCO

K Palmyra, Syria. UNESCO condemns military presence and


destruction at this, and other, World Heritage Sites. © UNESCO

The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization . www.unesco.org


36
OPINION

With about seventy cultural facilities,


the MuseumsQuartier Wien or MQ, as it
is lovingly known, is one of the largest
art and culture complexes in the world.

Inner courtyard

MQ entrance,
photo by Pfeiffer
The Art
37

of MQ

performances. MQ is home not


only to visual and performing arts,
but also to architecture, music,
fashion, theater, dance, literature,
Leopold Museum and the MUMOK street art, gaming, design and
(Museum of Modern Art Ludwig photography.
Foundation Vienna) as well as
Historic buildings from the 18th contemporary exhibition spaces The history of the
and 19th centuries, together like the Kunsthalle Wien. Then MuseumsQuartier is however not
with contemporary and daring there is the Tanzquartier, a state- without its controversies. From its
architecture, form a unique of-the-art dance centre, the studios 18th century beginnings as imperial
place in the heart of the city, just of artists-in-residence, cultural stables (designed by famous
off the Ringstrasse. The cafés facilities geared towards children Baroque architect J.B. Fischer von
and shops turn the urban space and the Architekturzentrum Erlach) and use as a fairground
into a living room for culturally Wien. And it is difficult to visit and an exhibition centre, there
inclined young Austrians as well MQ without stumbling into yet were some tough patches in the
as international tourists who another cultural festival; the road to today’s success.
can give their feet a few minutes Wiener Festwochen for instance,
rest before exploring yet another an annual summer highlight, or To many the idea of a
cultural attraction. the Biennale Film Festival; or MuseumsQuartier Wien was
ImPulsTanz. There is also plenty just another example of an over-
MQ has something for everyone: of space for smaller initiatives for ambitious city marketing plan;
famous museums like the daring new artists and cutting edge a large scale urban rejuvenation
38
OPINION

Stables around programme in which a run-down compromises, the concerns of the and walk along the top of MQ as if
1720
area in the centre of the city local community were taken into you are walking on a castle wall.
Mumok would be turned into a cultural account. The plans were adapted With a bit of effort you can enjoy
attraction. The dangers of a and the renovation of the Baroque spectacular views of the city. On a
Leopold
Museum deep financial pit and numbers period stables finally began in sunny spring day, away from the
not adding up had been the 1998. The historical buildings were busy city, the inner city squares
downfall of many a municipality surrounded and integrated into of the MQ are a wonderful place
across Europe. And in addition modern architectural structures that breathes culture. Check out
there was fear of many heritage by the architects Laurids and Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein
organisations - Europa Nostra Manfred Ortner. Three years and a and Pablo Picasso in the MUMOK
among them - that the historical 150 million Euros later the 60,000 with over 7,000 works of art
fabric of the district would be m² MuseumsQuartier first opened and then enjoy a long evening in
destroyed. Originally the plan its doors for business. the multi-level restaurant next
contained several high rise to the Leopold Museum. The
buildings and other unacceptable MQ is more than a collection many cultural activities make the
interventions which would have of indoor city squares. There is MuseumsQuartier Wien not just
had far reaching consequences quite a bit of difference in height the embodiment of living art but
for the area. After many between the area and the city also of the art of living.
discussions, disagreements and district behind. You can climb up
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Tel.: +43 1 21175-3583
E-Mail: tobias.nickel@uniqa.at

www.artuniqa.at
40
TREASURE

Along the
Danube River

The Danube River, our most European river lies at the heart of a
navigable route from the North Sea to the Black Sea. Thousands
kilometres of cultural history flow from one country to the next.

Venus of One of the most beautiful fortress and city walls – are Most of the houses in Krems date
Willendorf
parts, the so-called surrounded by vine terraces back to the early middle ages, but,
Wachau, stretches between which go back millennia. as elsewhere in Europe, stone
the towns of Melk and Krems for instance is a houses replaced the traditional
Krems in Austria and beautifully restored city fire prone wooden peasant and
is listed as UNESCO which is on the must-see burgher houses in the 15th and 16th
World Heritage. It is list of tourists from centuries.
a marvel of nature across the world. Its
and human history famous city gate shows Humans have lived and worked
working together up on photographs from in the Wachau since Palaeolithic
to create something China to Chili. Another times. Figurines from Galgenberg
truly astounding. It is a highlight is the so-called (circa 32.000 years old) and
medieval landscape that has Gozzoburg, considered Willendorf (circa 26.000 years
harmoniously evolved over as one of Austria’s most old) are among the oldest works
time into a cultural sensation. important medieval buildings. of art we Europeans have. From
Named after its first-known the so-called Hallstatt culture to
Monasteries, castles and owner, the former town judge the Celts and the Romans, the
ancient ruins hide in the green Gozzo who inhabited it in the 13th Wachau is at the centre of Central
This text is valleys or high on the imposing century, the Gozzoburg was built European history. The name is
partially based mountaintops like the stone as a stately residence and office. first mentioned in 853 as Wahowa.
on the UNESCO
listing of the
nests of giant eagles. Charming It was one of the winners of the The city of Krems first appears
Wachau Cultural towns and villages - always with EU Prize for Cultural Heritage/ in 995, making it the oldest
Landscape at whc.
a beautiful church on a lively city Europa Nostra Awards in 2009.
unesco.org
square, often with a medieval
41

some time after 1200. It depicts and part of the man-made natural Gozzoburg,
Krems
the political situation at that charm of the region.
time and mentions the Wachau Nibelungelied
manuscript
towns of Pöchlarn (Bechelaren), Wachau also increasingly became
Melk (Medelike), and Mautern a symbol of a form of historic - for
(Mutoren). lack of a better word - nostalgia.
The term ‘Golden Wachau’ blends
By the 19th century many things history and legend, art and
had changed. The Wachau had folklore, wine and hospitality. As
repeatedly been the arena for early as 1904 an action committee
armed conflicts. Religious changes was set up for the economic
and the Counter Reformation promotion of the Wachau, with
also had a large impact. The river the participation of all the local
transport, so important for the communities between Krems and
region, had been partially replaced Melk. Nowadays the Wachau is a
by road and rail. The ravages shining example of how to blend
of war, together with growing a UNESCO status together with a
competition from other wine large variety of cultural activities
regions and grape diseases made and events, and the promotion
fruit growing, especially apricots, of monuments and sites with a
more popular. Fruit trees began to comprehensive strategy towards
Austrian town to be mentioned take over part of the valleys and sustainable tourism.
in a document. The Wachau is lower slopes. This mix between
also the setting of the famous wine and fruit continues up to
Nibelungenlied, that greatest of this day and is closely linked with
all German epic poems, written fluctuations in world markets
HISTORIC HOTELS OF EUROPE
There are many elements that come together to create an unforgettable hotel experience, from an
idyllic location to award-winning restaurants, but one of the most unique and inspiring aspects of any
property’s makeup is its history.

The Historic Hotels of Europe group (HHE) are committed to promote awareness of close to 500 of
the finest historic hotels across Europe, ranging from romantic castles and grand palaces, to imposing
abbeys and opulent estates.

The HHE works alongside 15 member groups dotted across the continent - including Austria’s own
Schlosshotels & Herrenhäuser (Castle Hotels & Mansions) - and are passionate about honouring
Europe’s cultural heritage through excellence in hospitality.

Take a trip through Austria’s past and celebrate its future by discovering some of its most notable
historic hotels – from a waterside manor fit for a king, to a modernised gem once home to monarchy …

HOTEL ALTSTADT VIENNA HOTEL ALTSTADT VIENNA

HOTEL SCHLOSS LEOPOLDSKRON, SALZBURG


HOTEL ALTSTADT VIENNA
In a city as picturesque as Vienna, an aristocrat’s renovated townhouse is already alluring.
This boutique hotel has been updated in recent years by the Milan-based architect Matteo
Thun, and has been hailed as a modern classic in the making.

HOTEL LANDHAUS ZU APPESBACH


Intended by its original owner to emulate an English country house in the middle of the
Salzkammergut region, this grand waterside manor on Lake Wolfgangsee was once inhabited
by Edward VIII, Duke of Windsor. It was here he is reported to have found the “splendid
isolation” he sought after abdicating as King of England. The Appesbach continues to
radiate with style and tranquillity, and is virtually unchanged.

HOTEL SCHLOSS LEOPOLDSKRON


Dating back to 1736 – and newly positioned as a hotel in early 2014 – Hotel Schloss
Leopoldskron sits by the water of Leopoldskroner Weiher, minutes from the heart of
Salzburg, and surrounded by majestic, panoramic views of the Alps.

Showcasing one of the finest examples of rococo work in Europe, the property hit the silver
screen as a backdrop for the filmic von Trapp family’s adventures in The Sound of Music.
These hotels are just a few of the historical jewels dotted across Austria, and indeed Europe.
Historic Hotels of Europe group (HHE) is a partner of Europa Nostra.

HOTEL LANDHAUS ZU APPESBACH, WOLFGANGSEE HOTEL LANDHAUS ZU APPESBACH, WOLFGANGSEE


44
CITY DREAMS

Klimt’s Studio
The bright white museum in one of Vienna’s suburbs
not far from the famous Schönbrunn palace is closed
today, but the friendly staff allow me to look around
nonetheless. They are proud of what has been
accomplished here and want to share their success
with as many visitors as possible. The beautifully
restored villa literally hides within its walls a unique
treasure, Gustav Klimt’s last studio.
Klimt’s studio Klimt in front of 45
front the studio

Gustav Klimt (1862-1918) was one


of Austria’s greatest painters and
one of the leaders of the famous
Vienna Secession of the 1890s. It
is hard to walk into a bookstore
anywhere in the world without
running into a calender, mug or
t-shirt of his famous Portrait of
Adele Bloch-Bauer I (1907) or The
Kiss (1907–08), both from his so-
called Golden Phase. He worked in
his last studio, a sort of ground floor
garden house from 1911 until his
death in 1918. Klimt was an artist
in the romantic sense of the word.

Klimt’s studio
garden side

Klimt as drawn
by Egon Schiele
46
CITY DREAMS

Klimt’s studio
2014

Klimt’s studio
1918

Dress by Klimt

Adèle Bloch-Bauer
Two portraits of Adèle Bloch-
Bauer and several landscape
paintings were at the centre
of an ownership controversy
between Maria Altmann and
the Austrian Government.
The Austrian Supreme Court
in the end determined that
Altmann was the rightful heir He could rarely be seen in the cafés
of the paintings and Austria or bars of Vienna or chatting away
lost a priceless collection of
national treasures. Exactly at art exhibitions and openings.
how priceless became clear He spent most of his time at home
when the paintings left
Austria in March 2006 to working, dressed in sensible
be sold at Christie’s in Los sandals and a full body monk’s robe
Angeles. The two portraits of
Adèle Bloch-Bauer alone were without underwear. Women, his
sold for over $230 million. main source of inspiration, were
never far away.

Five years after his death a neo-


Baroque-style villa was built over
and around the studio, but his
atelier was kept intact as a structure
47
within. The new building covered
the original house as if a stone box
was placed over it. The villa became
a school and much later a sad and
derelict place, whose story and
hidden inner treasure was all but
forgotten.

Saving the studio for posterity


was a long process in which hopes
were dashed, renewed and finally
rewarded. The Gustav Klimt
Memorial Society conducted a
14-year campaign to persuade the
Austrian Government to preserve Burgtheater
the ‘Klimt Villa’ and its 5,500 m² Gustav Klimt has left his mark all over Vienna. In the
Burgtheater the original ceiling of the monumental
garden as a public property for
staircase of the entrance contains frescos by Klimt
all to enjoy.The long lists of steps and his brother. Even more remarkable was the
that had to be taken to save the discovery of the original drawings which were used
for the frescos rolled up and forgotten in a storage
building reads like a Kafka-esque room of the theatre. The gigantic paper models on a
novel, where hopes went up and 1 on 1 scale are now preserved in a special exposition
area in the Burgtheater. One of the first things that
down with the tide. The Society’s you notice as soon as you come eye to eye with the
volunteers conducted guided tours solemnly lighted drawings is their artistic quality.
The young Klimt had very little or no experience
and arranged cultural events to with large scale frescos and it is clear that his first
raise awareness, and now, with drawings are unnecessarily precise. His selfportrait
and that of his brother show his early mastership. In
Federal Monument status, Klimt’s 1888 Klimt received the Golden Order of Merit from
last studio has been faithfully Emperor Franz Josef I of Austria for the murals he
painted in the Burgtheater.
reconstructed inside the fully The worldfamous theatre is the location for the 2014
restored villa to become a unique ceremony of the EU Prize for Cultural Heritage/
Vienna Secession Europa Nostra Awards, which also honoured the
part of European cultural heritage.
Building Gustav Klimt Memorial Society for their dedicated
Luckily historical photographs service.
The crypt of the Vienna Secession
existed which gave the society a Building became the permanent
perfect idea of what the studio had home of one of Klimt’s most famous
paintings, the so-called Beethoven
looked like. Photographer Moritz Frieze. The symbolic but terrifying
Nähr (1859 - 1945) captured the gorilla grinning between scarcely
dressed women of legend has a
atmosphere of Klimt’s life in the tendency to stick to the brain. Klimt
1910s. painted his metaphor on human
yearning directly on the walls for the
14th Vienna Secessionist Exhibition
In 2014 the Gustav Klimt Memorial in 1902.
Society received the EU Prize for
Cultural Heritage / Europa Nostra
Awards in the category Dedicated its future as a sustainable cultural Gustav Klimt, selfportrait on fresco paper
Service. The jury was very centre, this voluntary society has
impressed with the work and stated: successfully anchored the memorial
“It was the Society’s unshakeable in the public consciousness,
determination in the pursuit of its supplementing and extending the
goal which most impressed the Jury. artist’s special reputation.”
Through its painstaking efforts
over a long period to ensure the www.klimt.at
faithful refashioning of Klimt’s
B&W photograph of the studio by Moritz
studio, and to introduce extensive Nähr © Austrian National Library in
outreach programmes to secure Vienna Ernst Klimt, Gustav’s younger brother
Legendary Beauty
48
COUNTRY DREAMS

The lakes of Austria are the result of a magnificent millennia-long


battle between rock and water. The timeless beauty of the landscape
hides a conflict too slow to be understood in human terms.

The unique alpine harmony so villages bypassed by history and loses itself in the Danube just
pleasing to the eye, was discovered the majestic mountains reflected above Linz. It flows through some
in the early 19th century. Writers, in quiet lakes. of the most remarkable Alpine
painters and poets tried to capture scenery and through lakes and
on paper and canvas the green, The Traun river rises in the deep valleys.
lush valleys, the idyllic farm mountains of Upper Austria and
To the River Traun 49
My heart is in a mountain mood, She can repeat the faithful tale “No glacier-mountains, harshly bold,
Though I am bound to tread the plain, That “where thy genial waters flow, Whose peaks disturb the summer air,
She will away for ill or good, All objects the rare crystal hail, And make the gentle blue so cold,
I cannot lure her back again; And cast their voices far below; And hurt our warmest thoughts, are there;
So let her go, God speed her flight And there the steadfast echoes rest But upland meadows lush with rills,
Till the old sun himself goes down, Soft-green as is the love-bird’s down,
O’er racy glebe and columned town,
Till darkness falls on every breast, And quaintest forms of pine-clad hills
I know that she will rest ere night
Even on thine, transparent Traun.” Are thy fit setting, jewelled Traun!”
By the remembered banks of Traun.
And she can say, “Where’er thou art, But the wise Muse need not be told,
And she will pray her sister Muse,
Brawling mid rocks, or calm-embayed, Though fair and just her song may seem,
Sister, companion, friend, and guide,
Outpouring thy abundant heart The same has oft been sung of old,
Her every art and grace to use,
In ample lake or deep cascade, Of many a less deserving stream;
For love of that well-cherished tide;
Whatever dress thy sides adorn, For where would be the worth of sight,
But words are weak, she cannot reach
Fresh-dewy leaves or fir-stems brown, If Love could feed on blank renown?
By such poor steps that Beauty’s crown; Or ruby-dripping barberry-thorn, They who have loved the Traun aright
How can the Muse to others teach Thou art thyself, delightful Traun! Have sat beside the banks of Traun.
What were to me the banks of Traun?
by Richard Monckton Milnes, Lord Houghton
50
COUNTRY DREAMS

Halstatt in 2014
As a young man Richard of Residence upon the Continent. also quite popular. He tried
Lord Houghton Monckton Milnes (1809-1885) Richard Monckton Milnes went without success to marry Florence
(Richard
Monckton
travelled through Europe on his on to become a well-known and Nightingale, the legendary nurse.
Milnes) depicted grand tour. While in Lombardy he well-liked, good-natured politician
in Vanity Fair in
thought back to the walk he had and a famous patron of literature.
1870
made along the beautiful Traun He was created Lord Houghton
river and wrote a poem about it. in 1863, and surrounded himself
It was published in 1838, after his with the best writers and artists
return to London, in his Memorials of his day. His own poems were

Halstatt in 1890
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300 years, the palaces of the princely former glory: The Liechtenstein CITY PALACE princely wines of the Liechtenstein Winery,
family of Liechtenstein are notable for their is the first major example of High Baroque which looks back on a tradition of wine-gro-
stunning symbiosis of nature, architecture architecture in Vienna. wing that has endured for almost 600 years.
and masterpieces of art history.
The advantageous situation in Vienna’s Exclusive guided tours of the Princely
The impressively restored GARDEN PALACE inner city (right behind the Burgtheater), the Collections in both palaces offer your guests
with the magnificent gardens, the baroque exceptional staterooms and selected master- the chance to acquaint themselves with a
Hercules Hall and the Ladies’ Apartments is pieces from the Princely Collections dating tradition of collecting that spans more than
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Palais Liechtenstein GmbH, Fürstengasse 1, 1090 Vienna, Austria Golden Carriage © Palais Liechtenstein GmbH_Akodu
Liechtenstein GARDEN PALACE, garden view © Palais Liechtenstein GmbH_Felix Waldschütz
www.hofkellerei.at | hofkellerei@sfl.at Liechtenstein CITY PALACE, Ballroom © Palais Liechtenstein GmbH_Akodu
Weinshop Wien, Fürstengasse 1, 1090 Vienna, Austria Amerling Portrait of Princess Marie Franziska von Liechtenstein at the Age of Two © LIECHTENSTEIN. The Princely Collections, Vaduz-Vienna
52 Interior Fürst Café
CULINARY
53

Exterior Fürst Café

The Sweetest Heritage


Entering the Demel patisserie shop on Kohlmarkt 14
in Vienna is a risky business. Steady diets and solid
resolutions go up in smoke in sight of one of the prime
examples of Austrian’s sweetest heritage.

Original Sacher-Torte
Café Leopold Hawelka serves excellent location for the even
The large display cases in any up the real apfelstrudel, warm more deadly Kaiserschmarrn, a
traditional Konditorei in Vienna and lush. The pastry should be shredded pancake with plums
– and there are many, each with perfectly crisp and not limp, the or apple sauce, which will only
its own history, traditions and apples sumptuous and not mushy. slowly start to digest after hours of
specialities - show a large variety This is a far cry from the strudels sightseeing on foot.
of small and larger luxury cakes. we can buy in the supermarket
Not a muffin or doughnut in of our home town. And if one
sight. Demel even has a chocolate needs variety; there is the
Salzburger
statue in the window – if it Topfenstrudel (sweetened
Nockerl
portrays Madonna is anybody’s curd cheese), the
guess - which literally points Millirahmstrudel
the captivated tourists to the (creamy milk) and the
delicacies on sale in the café and Mohnstrudel (poppy seed)
the gift shop. Today’s sin on sale for instance.
is a rectangular layered hazelnut
torte with gold leaf and a light The Prater, one of Vienna’s most
mocha cream. famous traditional parks is an
54
Chocolate
CULINARY

Madonna

Sweets in Demel
in Vienna

The famous Sacher hotel still has been a well-kept secret since
serves their invention, the Sacher- 1832. According to legend the torte
Torte. They still bake about 800 was a last minute idea of 16-year-
a day, packed in a traditional old apprentice pastry chef Franz
wooden box with the Sacher Sacher (1816-1907) who had to take
emblem embedded in thick over from his sick boss at a smart
chocolate. In an dinner party of
article elsewhere the Fürst von
in this magazine Metternich-
we talk to the Winneburg zu
people in charge. Beilstein. The
The original recipe guests were
of this chocolate happy and a
layered cake with career was
apricot jam and a
thick layer of icing Linzer
Torte
many companies but Fürst on the
55
Brodgasse celebrates 125 years
and has a pretty good claim. Their
kügel is wrapped in a blue and
silvery wrapping, not perfectly
round but handmade, traditional,
delicious and quite deadly.

Salzburger Nockerl or Noggal


are made with a lot of eggwhites,
but before the dieticians get too
excited, the calorie count of this
carefully prepared soufflé is still
a serious affair. “As sweet as
love, as tender as a kiss,” is what
the Austrians say. If made well
it is a collection of light yellow
hills of fluff covered with a layer
of powdered sugar resembling
snowy mountains. It is a difficult
and sensitive dish and many
enthusiastic amateur cooks have
been confronted with a sad and
collapsed sight after opening the
oven door too soon, too late or too
abruptly.

The charming town of Linz is the


home of the famous Linzer torte.
On the sunny terraces of the
central square of the city we can
enjoy this lighthearted hazelnut
cake with thick apricot jam and
whipped cream, unsweetened of
course.
Demel interior

Every small café and bakery across


born. As with every best-selling always wanted the best money the country has its own seasonal
invention, for years the name could buy, not only in art and and local speciality which lures
Sacher-Torte was hotly contended. architecture, but also in patisserie. the innocent traveller to a sugary
A lawsuit finally settled it. Hotel As a result, Vienna may have defeat. Austria is truly the place
Sacher could sell theirs as the become the sweetest city in the where you can have your cake and
Original Sacher-Torte. All the world. eat it too.
other patisseries now just sell
Sachertorte. In Salzburg it is the famous Mozart
kügel that draws our attention.
Many countries bake a decent This is where Mozart was born –
cake but Austria has made it into his birthplace is now a museum
a classic artform. The origin of - and his self-confident face stares
all these gifted and innovative back at us from the millions of
pastry chefs may be traced back to marzipan and chocolate balls that
Nut cake in the
the imperial court of the Austro- Austria produces. This global
village of Stainz
Hungarian Empire. The royals business success is claimed by
56
LIVING HERITAGE

Saving the Vienna Woods


A government strapped for cash trying to sell off state-owned
properties to make ends meet. It sounds as if we are describing the
current crisis, but the Austro-Hungarian Empire at the end of the 1860s
was also seeing the cold, hard stone floor of the treasury.

After several wars, the cash flow the officials quickly hit a wall
Memorial in
Purkersdorf, had dried up and after taxes had of widespread public resistance
photo by Ailura been raised, the government personified in Josef Schöffel (1832-
started to sell off forested areas 1910). It was one of the first and
to the private sector. Large-scale finest examples of a community
felling was the result. The ancient coming together to save their
Vienna Woods (Wienerwald), a cultural heritage.
former hunting ground and a source
for firewood for many people in The retired Lieutenant Schöffel
the city, as well as the only large had become increasingly
green area close to the ever-growing interested in the natural sciences
capital, were high on the list. and environmental issues and had
watched the government sell-out
In 1870 the politicians proposed of properties with a wary eye. The
to sell and clear the forest. But proposed selling of the Vienna
Stained glass windows of the
57
Vienna Woods by Adolf Böhm in
the Wagner Villa

Memorial
dedicated to
Josef Schöffel
in the Vienna
Woods

Josef Schöffel

Woods to a lumber merchant


was the last straw and, Schöffel
reasoned, would lead to total
devastation of the region. When,
on 18 April 1870, the Imperial
Parliament suggested selling the
Anninger Forst, part of the Vienna
Woods, Schöffel went on the attack
and launched a publicity campaign
and public petitions to stop them.
But the government and all the
other parties with vested interests
started a smear campaign. Schöffel
was accused of defamation
and the incitement of hatred
and contempt. Interestingly,
the argument Schöffel made
to convince the state officials
seems right out of a modern
ecologist brochure. He argued farmlands. He pointed out that was going to be withdrawn but it
that destroying the Vienna Woods the most respected scientists of was all part of a tactic. Schöffel
would have a profound impact on nature could attest to this and was offered serious money to lie
the ecology of the area and would that selling-off the Vienna Woods low. Others secretly suggested
influence rainfall, temperature was not just wrong, it was stupid. that Schöffel should suffer a
and fertility of the surrounding At first it looked as if the sale unfortunate hunting accident.
58
The Vienna Woods are also the last
LIVING HERITAGE

resting place of the Most Beautiful


Woman in the World. This year we
commemorate the 100th birthday
of movie star, model and inventor
Hedy Lamarr (1914-2000). She was
born as Hedwig Kiesler in Vienna
in the first year of World War I. The
sexy Hollywood actress of films like
Samson and Delilah and Ziegfeld
Girl was the ideal pin-up, but she
was also more than a ravishing
brunette. She invented an important
communication technology still in
use today.
Lamarr’s first of many husbands was
a military manufacturer in Germany.
One of the problems he struggled
with was that the frequency of radio
controlled torpedoes could easily be
jammed. Lamarr came up with the
idea to quickly alternate frequencies:
the enemy would not be able to find
the right one at any given moment
if the transmitter sent signals
while ‘hopping’ from frequency to
frequency in quick succession. She
only figured out how to synchronize
both transmitter and receiver
after moving to the United States.
Together with composer George
Antheil, she then developed an idea
based on 88 different frequencies,
inspired by the perforated rolls
used by automated pianos. Their
patented frequency-hopping idea is
still the basis for the modern spread-
spectrum communication technology
used in mobiles and wifi.
Calling Hedy Lamarr, a 2004
documentary about the life, legend
and tragedy of the beautiful actress
and inventor featured Hedy’s son
Anthony Loder who took her ashes
to Austria and spread them in the
Vienna Woods, in accordance with
her last wishes.

Hedy Lamarr Slowly but surely, however, the Lower Austria and Burgenland
News paper government started to change its signed the Vienna Woods
from 1873 mind and the officials who had Declaration. And in 2005 the
been Schöffel’s main opponents Vienna Woods were recognised by
one by one retired. At the end of UNESCO as an official biosphere
1872 there was reason to celebrate. park because of its unique
The Vienna Woods were saved biodiversity.
and Schöffel’s campaign was
fully vindicated. He was named Josef Schöffel would be delighted.
honorary citizen of several He is still a local hero, remembered
municipalities and even became in street names, schools,
mayor of Mödling. He worked as a monuments, a museum in Mödling
deputy in the Imperial Council and and a special memorial stone on
the Lower Austrian Landtag. In the top of a hill near Purkersdorf.
1905 the Vienna District Council The Josef-Schöffel-Prize is the
passed the Forest and Meadow highest recognition in the field of
Belt protection law. In 1987, the nature conservation.
governors of the states of Vienna,
Bernardo Bellotto, detail from “The Liechtenstein Garden Palais in Vienna”, 1759/60
© LIECHTENSTEIN. The Princely Collections, Vaduz–Vienna

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Then & Now
60
FEATURE

One of the first things you notice when travelling through Austria
and especially Vienna is how well-preserved and restored most of the
monuments and sites are. It is a wonderful adventure to walk along the old
shopping streets of Vienna, with their famous coffeehouses, and to visit
the historic palaces, churches and museums. But how much has Austria
changed? Can we still recognize the sites if we look at old photographs and
paintings? In this article we always compare the old with the new.

‘Mastery of the Hofburg & St. Michaels Square


Sea’ fountain
Even though the current form of
Hofburg in the
the square, named after the 13th
19th century
century St. Michael’s Church,
Hofburg with goes back to 1725, excavations
excavations of
Roman remains have shown that there once was
a Roman camp on this location.
The fountain on the left in the 19th
century picture is by Rudolf Weyr
and known as the ‘Mastery of the
Sea’ (1895)

Another building worth seeing


on the square is the Loos Haus
(1910/12) designed by famous
architect Adolf Loos, which is now
the home of Raiffeisen Private
Banking. Emperor Franz Joseph
did not like the look of this modern
building at all, and even boarded
up some of the windows in his
Hofburg Palace, so that he would
never have to look at it!
61

around 150,000 costumes. On


5 November, 1955 the Vienna
State Opera reopened with a
performance of Beethoven’s
Vienna State Opera by an American bombardment Fidelio. Public television station
The Wiener Staatsoper dates during World War II. The front ORF used the occasion to make
back to the mid-19th century. The section of the building which had its first live broadcast. There were
opening premiere on May 25, 1869, been walled off as a precaution, only about 800 television sets
in the presence of Emperor Franz remained intact. The auditorium in Austria at the time. Maestro
Josef and Empress Elisabeth, and stage were destroyed as Plácido Domingo, President of
was Mozart’s Don Giovanni. The well as the sets and set pieces Europa Nostra, celebrated his 40th
building was largely destroyed for more than 120 operas, and jubilee here in 2007.

Schönbrunn Schönbrunn
today
Emperor Maximilian II acquired Schönbrunn
the site of the current palace - 1890s
then known as Katterburg - in
1569 to build a hunting lodge.
The legend goes that his son
Matthias discovered a beautiful
spring on the site and exclaimed
‘So ein schöner Brunnen’ (‘What a
beautiful spring’), which led to the
name Schönbrunn.

In 1695, after the Ottomans


destroyed the hunting lodge, a
palace was built which aimed than 1,000 people lived in the 1441 Josef and Empress Elisabeth, are Schönbrunn
garden today
to outshine Versailles. In 1918, rooms and halls of the grandiose now open to visitors. The endless
after the reign of the Habsburg complex. Several rooms, among gardens of Schönbrunn are a Schönbrunn
garden 1890
monarchy had ended, Schönbrunn them the state rooms and the delight all the year round.
became state owned. Once more private rooms of Emperor Franz-
62
FEATURE

Sophiensäle
2006

Sophiensäle
1900

Sophiensäle events. Because of its excellent


The Sophiensäle was for over 150 acoustics, it became a popular
years at the centre of Viennese location for music recordings.
social life. The bath house Herbert von Karajan and Leonard
‘Sophienbad’ opened its doors Bernstein recorded here. In
in 1838. In winter, the large 2001 the complex was badly
swimming pool was drained and damaged by fire. For years it stood
covered with a wooden floor derelict, a shadow of its former
construction and the Sophiensäle self, but now, after a long and
became a famous location for difficult restoration process, the
balls, concerts and theatrical Sophiensäle is ready to take centre
performances, as well as for stage once more.
political, sporting and cultural

Sophiensäle Mozart statue Salzburg


during
restoration The Mozart square in Salzburg is
dominated by a statue of Mozart. It
was made by Ludwig Schwanthaler
and was officially unveiled on
September 5, 1842 in the presence
of Mozart’s sons.
Prater 63
The area that makes up the modern
Prater was first mentioned in 1162
and changed hands frequently until it
was bought by Emperor Maximilian
II in 1560 to serve as private hunting
grounds. In 1766, Emperor Josef II
opened the Prater to the general
public for the first time. The old
Lusthaus is a wonderful place to relax
Prater today and eat after a long walk. The famous
Prater around
Ferris wheel was built in 1897 by the
1900 British engineer Walter Basset.

Graben
The name and position of this The Pestsäule or Plague Column,
favourite shopping street goes all constructed under Emperor
the way back to the old Roman Leopold I following the Great
encampment of Vindobona. Plague of Vienna in 1679, is one of
In 1974, the Graben became the best-known pieces of sculpture
Vienna’s first pedestrian zone. in the city.

City Hall
resembling a medieval cathedral.
The architecture of the Ringstraße It was designed by Friedrich
is dominated by historicism. Schmidt (1825-1891). Construction
The City Hall was built in a started in 1872 and lasted for more
grand gothic style, with a tower than ten years.
64
FEATURE

Naschmarkt as well as exotic herbs, cheeses,


The Naschmarkt is Vienna’s most cakes, meats and seafood. A visit
popular market and has existed to Vienna would be incomplete
since the 16th century. Nowadays, without a glass of local wine and
one can buy fresh fruit and cheese at Urbanek, the smallest
vegetables from around the world ‘restaurant’ on the Naschmarkt.

Vienna Boys’
Choir now,
poster for
Japanese tour

Vienna Boys’
Choir then

Vienna Boys’ Choir back to the late Middle Ages. school.


The Vienna Boys’ Choir or Wiener Over the centuries the choir has
Sängerknaben is one of the best worked with famous composers The Vienna Boys’ Choir performed
known boys’ choirs in the world. such as Gluck, Salieri, Mozart, during the 2014 EU Prize for
Schubert and Bruckner. Since 1948 Cultural Heritage/Europa Nostra
The choir is a private, not-for- Augarten Palace has served as Awards in the Burgtheater in
profit organization and dates their rehearsal venue and boarding Vienna.
65

Belvedere Upper Belvedere


around 1900
The Belvedere consists of two
Baroque palaces, the Upper and
Lower Belvedere surrounded by
beautiful landscape gardens. It
houses one of the most attractive
museums in Vienna with art from
the 19th and 20th century, including
works by Van Gogh, Monet,
Renoir, Schiele and Kokoschka.
The museum is best known for its
unrivalled collection of works by
Gustav Klimt.

Secession Building
ideas of the Vienna Secession
The Wiener Secessionsgebäude, art movement. The impressive
as it is called in German, is an building, with its golden dome Klimt’s famous Beethoven Frieze.
exhibition hall built in 1897 surrounded by giant vases, is still ‘To every age its art, to every art
by Joseph Maria Olbrich as an one of Vienna’s most unmissable its freedom,’ was the Secession’s
architectural expression of the attractions. The interior contains slogan.
Among the
66
SHORT STORY

other Viennese By Claudio Magris


Vienna is also a city of cemeteries, as majestic and friendly as the portraits of
Francis Joseph. The Centralfriedhof, the Central Cemetery, is a major march-past
in the grandes manoeuvres which attempt to postpone the triumph of time.

The graves of the great Viennese in the cloudy night-time drizzle, It is the first time I have ever been
- the sector devoted to illustrious though here and there a votive in a cemetery next to someone
personages, which starts to the lamp punctuates the murk. Herr whom is handling not flowers,
left of the main entrance, Gate Baumgartner keeps his shotgun shovels or prayer-books, but guns
No.2 - comprise the front rank close beside him – a gun he has and cartridges. But today, for an
of a Guard which makes a stand owned for thirty years, he told me hour or two, before daylight comes,
against transience but, unlike a moment ago – and rests a hand the Central Cemetery in Vienna is
Napoleon’s Guards at Waterloo, on it with the quiet, affectionate a forest, a jungle, leatherstocking’s
forming square without the familiarity of long cohabitation, woods, Turgenev’s steppes, the
least hesitation, this regiment as a musician finds pleasure in dominion of Diana or St Hubert,
fights according to elastic tactics, touching his violin, which he a place where one does not bless
seems to wish to defilade itself; it loves not only for its performance or bury, but lies in wait, fires,
suggests feints, it outflanks death, but for its shape, its curves, the kills ancient relatives for whom
it jests, it beats about the bush, texture and colour of the wood. no rite prescribes a Requiem or
with a view to frustrating the a Kaddish. This morning, in the
methodical swish of the scythe. Central Cemetery, the order of
At five in the morning this host the day is shooting, even if Herr
of stones, busts and monuments Baumgartner doesn’t want to
is still almost invisible, opaque hear this word, and talks about a
and colourless, as it lies hidden necessary, authorized reduction
Claudio Magris 67

of the numbers of hares: they


are harmful, it seems, because
of their excessive profusion and
for other reasons. He is one of
three marksmen employed by the
Viennese municipal authorities
to maintain a correct balance
among the living which unlawfully
inhabit this metropolis of the dead
(this “city of the other Viennese,”
as the Austrians put it), and
prevent them from being too
lively by transforming them on
the instant into corpses of they
reveal themselves too healthy
and prosperous in this world.
Death is harmless, respectful and
discreet; it causes no trouble and
doesn’t hurt anyone. It is life that
is so troublesome, so noisy, so
aggressively destructive, and must kill? Well anyway, this licence Sunday hunters who infest Italy,
therefore be kept in check, lest it is very restricted and rigidly drunken with childish delight in
should get above itself. Hares, for controlled. Herr Baumgartner’s their power to kill, blasting away
example, have a downright passion double-barrelled gun only indiscriminately at wildlife and
- destructive and guilty as are all threatens male pheasants, hares human hunters: more deserving
passions - for the pansies laid on and wild rabbits, and even these by half of the attentions of Herr
the tombs by pious relatives. They according to well-established Baumgartner than are the hares
gnaw them, they uproot them, rules. Austria, as they say in my with a taste for pansies.
they rip them to shreds, they are part of the world, both was and is
not content with satisfying their an orderly country, and a gun- The man himself, squatting down
hunger but they make a massacre licence is subject to strict control. beside me in the grass is beginning
of them, like martens in a hen-run. Infractions are severely punished,
And indeed, the sepulchre in which and there are none of those
the presidents of the Republic are
laid to rest is littered with torn-up,
tattered pansies. Does this mild
irreverence merit the licence to
68 to emerge from the darkness in not a great hunting adventure, but Herr Baumgartner peers around
SHORT STORY

all his massive, paternal bulk; he what may be the zenith of my fame him, lends and ear to every
is not a trigger-happy maniac, and glory, because it is unlikely rustle, scrutinizes the foliage,
he shows no sign of that stupid that my books on the Mitteleuropa amorphous in the half light. He
pleasure in killing and putting of the Hapsburgs, in virtue of may fire where he likes, even
a stop to whatever life is seen which the municipality of Vienna among the crosses and the still-
to move; he does not indulge in have given me special permission fresh wreaths, but he is careful to
threadbare sophisms about the to be squatting down at this hour make no mistakes, because that
totemistic communion between of the morning in the grass in the sector of the cemetery - roughly a
killer and victim; an indeed he central Cemetery, will have any third, the other parts falling to the
reveals no kind of banal excitation, greater impact on reality than this, competence of his two colleagues
but rather the good-natured calm or any further force it limits and - is entirely his responsibility, and
of a gardener. He is a good shot and prohibitions. It might well be that, he has to answer for where his
does what he has to do, for Austria in this dawn, I have had my day, as lead ends up, for any chance bosh-
is an orderly country, but maybe King Lear puts it. shot that shatters a votive lamp
he is not at all that displeased or grazes an angel thoughtfully
when, through no fault of his own, We move towards the edge of the watching over a tomb. In a couple
he goes home empty-handed. cemetery, passing between the of hours’ time the relatives who
tombs, which are slowly becoming find the photograph of their dear
I imagine that, to start with, he more distinct. The tombs of departed as riddled as a sombrero
was none too keen on the idea Castelli, the light-hearted, prolific in a western movie, or the stone
of having me under his feet, for author of popular comedies, stained with the blood of a rabbit
no one as a rule is allowed to be bears an inscription by courtesy hit at the wrong moment, would
present. At the entrance to the of the league for the protection know to whom to address their
cemetery he explained to the of animals, while from the faint outraged protests. “It shouldn’t
night-watchman that I was a mist rises a tall, simple cross with happen, but it might,” he repeats
professor, a title much honoured the phrase that sums up the life several times, but placidly.
here, and that I was allowed in as of Peter Altenberg, all a toccata
an exceptional case through the and fugue:”He loved and saw.” We are on the edge of the last row
good offices of the department A bare, basic cube is the funeral of graves, set on a slight rise which
of the burgomaster of Vienna. In monument of Adolf Loos, while commands a good view. The bank
this damp dawn, which is already that of Schönberg, creator of a itself is made of loose earth, debris
beginning to pale the gloomy more disquieting geometry, is also
clouds, I am experiencing what is a cube, but a distorted one.
69

Claudio Magris during his acceptance speech


and rotten grass and leaves swept bed in the garden or in a pot
up along the avenues and amassed containing a single plant. Helena Vaz da Silva European Award
at this point. The soil in this area for Raising Public Awareness on
is particularly well suited to the The colourless grass now swiftly Cultural Heritage
rapid putrefaction of corpses, as turns to green, the first birdcall The renowned Italian writer Claudio Magris (b.1939) is the
was well known in the last century and the first flutterings are heard very first winner of the Helena Vaz da Silva European Award
for Raising Public Awareness on Cultural Heritage, instituted
to the authorities and to the among the trees, the big crows by Europa Nostra, its representation in Portugal, Centro
proprietors of plots. Daring the migrating from Russia rise on the Nacional de Cultura, and Clube Português de Imprensa, on
the occasion of Europa Nostra’s 50th Anniversary in 2013.
projection stage for the building wing, while in the east there rises “Magris is the author of impressive literary works which
of the cemetery the latter used a pallid lemon-rind sun. Even in speak about the roots of our European identity and also stress
the need to preserve Europe’s tangible and intangible heritage.
to haggle and stick out for higher that suburban undergrowth the Claudio Magris’ understanding of Europe as a place of dialogue
prices in relation to the greater or unmistakable smell of morning and cultural exchange is perceptible in his masterpiece on the
Danube and throughout the whole of his rich literary opus,”
lesser putrefactive vigour of the endows us with a physical sense
stated Guilherme d’Oliveira Martins, President of the jury,
soil, to the point of exchanging of happiness, the pleasure of a during the announcement of the award which was presented
abusive pamphlets such as the body at ease in itself, a relish for to Claudio Magris at a special ceremony in the presence of
Aníbal Cavaco Silva, President of Portugal, on 21 October 2013
one addressed in 1869 by the hearing, touching, seeing things. in Lisbon.
municipal councillor Dr Mitlacher The untouchable hen-birds which “The Danube is not without reason the only truly European
to Baron Lasky. The area where we for some minutes have been river, Protestant at its source, then Catholic, finally Orthodox;
in its Roman ruins and Byzantine domes, cathedrals and
are now is unkempt, a large grassy sporting on the grass are now synagogues, Baroque and Ottoman splendour are reflected,”
expanse stretching between the about to be joined by a cock- reads Magris’ Danubio (1986). As he travels the route from
the Black Forest in Germany to the mouth of the river into the
wood and a wall surrounding the pheasant. Still some way off, he Black Sea in Romania, he makes an inventory of fundamental
central workshops of the Viennese approaches cautiously while my references which enable us to understand Europe as a place of
interactions, tolerance and understanding.
tramway company. A few steps neighbour takes aim. Accustomed
“Magris is fully aware of the deep and creative relationship
away is a tomb bearing the name as I am, one my own Mount between the North and the South, as reflected in literature,
of the Pabst family, and beneath it Snežnik, to dismantling the traps art, traditions and customs, and also in Europe’s quest
for a culture of peace,” stressed the jury. “The number of
the inscription auf Wiedersehen. laid by hunters, I have a vague prizes Magris has received justly recognises his key role in
This meadow, extensive as it is, is sense of being a traitor, a man promoting an innovative way of understanding our cultural
heritage, fully in line with the spirit of Europa Nostra,” added
a small slice of nature hemmed in who has gone over to the other the jury.
by society, by the symmetry of the side. Is this the way in which each A European jury comprised of seven eminent experts in the
avenues and the funeral industry of us goes to meet his fate, with fields of culture, heritage and communication met on 21 June
2013 in Lisbon to consider the nominations and decide on
on one hand and the municipal useless even if practised caution? the winner. The jury especially took into consideration the
transport company on the other; Standing motionless, I ask myself European dimension of the work of each nominated candidate.
Appreciating “the exemplary, effective and continuous
but even this minimal space is like what constellations of possible
communication efforts” of the Hungarian Olivér Kovács, for
the taiga or the savannah, which threats, atomic or microbiological, the mobilisation of citizens in favour of heritage in Hungary,
are also surrounded by civilisation star-wars, recurrent viruses and of the Turkish Özgen Acar, for the international fight
against illegal trafficking of heritage treasures from Turkey,
but measured by the ancient or overtakings on bends have the jury decided to accord them a special mention.
laws of the animal world, sniffing my life in their sights, as my The award ceremony took place on 21 October at the Gulbenkian
at scents crawling, searching neighbour’s gun now has this Foundation in Lisbon, the hometown of the late Helena Vaz da Silva
(1939-2002). The European Award for Raising Public Awareness on
for food, coupling, setting and pheasant, selected by an infinite Cultural Heritage is named after the renowned Portuguese journalist,
avoiding ambushes; the law, in concatenation of coincidences. writer, cultural activist and politician in memory and recognition of
her exceptional contribution to the promotion of cultural heritage and
fact, which rules even the flower- European ideals.
70 During this absurd, guilt-stricken We make for the exit, for the usual and now is not, the real essence
SHORT STORY

wait, I regret the fact that in 1874 visitors will soon be starting to of which is unknown even to the
the high cost (a million florins) of arrive. All in all it has been a dawn scientists, if in order to define it
the operation led to the failure of in keeping with the Viennese spirit they must needs have recourse to
Felbinger and Hudetz’s scheme which mocks at death, flatters it such tautologies as “the complex
for funerals by pneumatic post. but also ridicules it, courts it but of phenomena which oppose
According to this the dead would at the same time, not being able to death.” I don’t know exactly why,
be shot off directly to their allotted leave it in the lurch once and for since - like all those with walk-on
tombs through miles of tubing all, as in the case of a lover who has parts in the spectacle of the world -
activated by compressed air. grown to weary us, at least tries I have no central role and therefore
And I imagine that the air of the to spite it a little. At the gate we no direct, precise responsibilities,
cemetery would have rung with meet one of Herr Baumgartner’s but that hare certainly leaves one
the sharp reports made by corpses colleagues. The hare he has shot with a sense of shame.
in continuous arrival, and that this is an image of the deficit of the
pheasant would have taken wing. universe and of the original sin of Among the other Viennese
life which feeds on death. In a few is an excerpt from Danubio
But the interplay of coincidences hours that hare will be a pleasing (1986) translated as Danube:
which holds the universe in its trophy, and later still a succulent A Sentimental Journey from the
grip, taking on a different guise, dish, but right now it is still terror Source to the Black Sea
though remaining perfectly and flight, the suffering of a ISBN 0-00-272074-4
Austrian and bureaucratic, has creature that neither asked to live
decided to grant the pheasant a nor deserved to die, the mystery
stay of execution. Just before the of life, this strange thing that was
target gets within absolutely safe in the hare until a short while ago
range, at the edge of the wood,
near the Pabsts’ auf Wiedersehen,
a lorry comes huffing and puffing
along, laden with dead leaves and
other debris which the cemetery
gardeners – birds almost as early
as the gamekeepers – have swept
along the pathways and are about
to dump near us. The pheasant
takes fright and vanishes, while
Herr Baumgartner allows himself
a sonorous “Damn!,” but greets
the spoilsports cordially.
EUROPEAN HERITAGE LABEL 2014
Europa Nostra congratulates the Archaeological Park Carnuntum
in Austria on receiving the European Heritage Label
The European Heritage Label awarded by the European Commission highlights
outstanding heritage sites with a particular European dimension, celebrating and
symbolizing European integration, ideals and history.

Carnuntum was an important 1st century Roman settlement on the Danube located at a
crossing point of trade routes. The Archaeological Park Carnuntum tell the story of this
Roman city through careful reconstruction and a museum with educational programmes.
The park reflects a history that deeply influenced and shaped Europe’s development.

www.carnuntum.co.at

The European Commission has awarded the European Heritage Label


to three other sites in 2014:
• Great Guild Hall, Tallinn, Estonia
• Camp Westerbork, The Netherlands
• Peace Palace, The Hague, The Netherlands

The European Heritage Label award ceremony took take place on 8 April, 2014 in
Brussels, at the Solvay Library in the presence of European Commissioner for Education,
Culture, Multilingualism and Youth, Androulla Vassiliou.

ec.europa.eu/culture/european-heritage-label
72
PANORAMA

Panorama
The flowery hills and the alpine meadows, the lakes
that spread like giant mirrors between snowtopped
peaks, they all add up to give Austria one of the most
spectacular landscapes of Europe. Sitting on top of one
of the skyscraper mountains in Tirol, the world seems
far away. It is a view that has inspired painters and
poets as well as emperors and film directors.
73

View of
Innsbruck (19th
century)

View of
Innsbruck,
photo by F.
Böhringer
PANORAMA

74
75

Schwarzenberg, Travelling through the rolling hills


photo by F.
and green valleys, it is difficult
Böhringer
not to feel that Austria’s cultural
Maria-Theresien- heritage is in perfect harmony
Platz with the
Kunsthistorisches with its surroundings, as if the
Museum only thing missing from a picture-
(right) and the
perfect crystal clear lake was an
Naturhistorisches
Museum (left) even more picturesque historic
village on its shore.

But this is not just a country for


extraordinary natural sights.
The cities and palace grounds
also offer stunning views, from
the old city of Salzburg to the
centre of the capital Vienna, both
UNESCO World Heritage sites.
The view, for instance, from the
Festung Hohensalzburg, one of
Europe’s largest fortresses, offers
a wide variety of spectacular
vistas. Austria is a land made for
panoramic pictures.

View from
Festung
Hohensalzburg in
Salzburg
76
INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE

Still
Smoking
Hot...

Like the Van Nelle Factory in the The innovative design by Peter After producing a billion cigarettes
Netherlands - Grand Prix Winner of Behrens and Austrian architect a month, tobacco production in
Alexander Popp was built around the building finally stopped in
the European Union Prize for Cultural
the same period too, between 2009 and plans were long in the
Heritage /Europa Nostra Awards 1929 and 1935. It was made of pipeline to create a new future for
in 2008 - the Linz Tobacco Factory reinforced concrete and isolated the industrial superbuilding. The
by cork and hollow bricks, both massive structure was declared a
(Tabakfabrik) is a modernist triumph of
very new techniques at the time. historic landmark and has slowly
architectural unity and light. Tobacco processing needs good returned from private ownership
illumination and careful conditions back into government’s hands and
for temperature and humidity and is now 100% owned by the city of
the facade is lined by long rows Linz.
of large windows, which give the
building a beautiful elegance. So what to do?
77

The factory unfolded its plans


at a Cultural heritage and the
EU 2020-Strategy meeting in
Vilnius, Lithuania in 2013. The
project developers have high
ambitions and a clear idea of the
challenges ahead. The factory
is to become ‘a living lab, a real
life experiment, a platform
for innovation, a manufactory
of future, a transformation
hub, which bridges the gaps
between the different sectors,
industries and social milieus,
78
INDUSTRIAL HERITAGE

events and companies from all


walks of life. The development
agency of the Tobacco Factory is
financed by the city of Linz and
it generates income by renting
space out to events and young
companies. It uses a scaled rental
system in order not to exclude
small start-ups from setting up
business in the building. The
€ 9 million budget in four years
– besides the € 20.4 million
for purchasing the area from
the former owner – has been
successfully invested to open the
building up to its new role.

by fostering transdisciplinary together. In almost every major The Tabakfabrik’s strategy is


cooperation and by following city in Europe, from London to not just short term – securing
the four major guidelines of the Amsterdam, from Cologne to an industrial heritage building
project: participation, openness, Istanbul, old industrial areas have by renting it out to young
transparency and sustainability.’ become breeding places of the entrepreneurs – but also long
new economy and home to hip term, by looking at what this
Despite the buzz-words, this restaurants, start-up companies 80,000m² of space in an iconic
multi-layered vibrant melting pot and pioneering shops and monument can mean for the future
of creativity has in all probability products. The Tobacco Factory of Linz by creatively linking the
a bright future. Linz is a city in could well become the heart of this old centre to other districts of the
change and the tobacco factory is new city district. city.
literally in an excellent position
to become a second city centre Already the factory is home to
where new industries can come attractive exhibitions, large scale
by volunteers.

all around the world.


cultural heritage, organised by
Wikimedia in September 2013.

rediscover the cultural, historical


Wiki Loves Monuments was an

Wikipedia, the free encyclopædia


— a global collaboration authored
international photo competition for

Wikimedia is the movement behind

and scientific significance of places


Check out the winning pictures and
(If you seek a monument, look around you.)

Wiki Loves Monuments thanks Europa Nostra for their support.

WWW.WIKILOVESMONUMENTS.ORG
SI MONUMENTUM REQUIRIS, CIRCUMSPICE

Photos, top-to-bottom, left-to-right: Monastery and chateau in Zbraslav, Prague, Czech Republic, by Zdeněk Fiedler; Convent of Norbertine Sisters in Kraków, Poland, by Jar.ciurus; Friedrich-von-Thiersch-Hall in the Kurhaus, Wiesbaden, Germany, by Martin Kraft; Wiesen
Viadukt between Wiesen and Filisur, Switzerland, by Kabelleger – David Gubler; Budapest Keleti railway station, Budapest-District VIII, Hungary, by Németh Tibor; university library of Eötvös Loránd University, Budapest, Hungary, by Thaler – Tamás Thaler; staircase in
weaver house, Nadrzeczna 2, Nowa Ruda, Poland, by Jar.ciurus. Wiki Loves Monuments logo by Lusitana. All pictures are released under the CC-BY-SA 3.0 license <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/legalcode> and can be found on Wikimedia Commons
<https://commons.wikimedia.org>.
Strong Coffee
80
LIVING HERITAGE

The hustle and bustle of politicians, businessmen and artists never


ceases in Café Landmann, next to the Burgtheater in the centre of
Vienna. Plans are discussed, deals are made and new ideas are born.
But whatever is brewing in the hearts and minds of the clients, it is
the brew behind the counter that fuels it all. As they say, there is a
word for a life without coffee, it is called sleep.

Coffee at the
Butterfly Green
House
Landmann is just one of the many
81
Viennese coffeehouses with
their marble table tops, Thonet
chairs and cups of strong Wiener
melange accompanied by a cool
glass of water. Since October 2011
the Viennese Coffee House Culture
is even listed on UNESCO’s
Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

Battle of Vienna
by Pauwel
Casteels

Kolschitzky in
19th century litho

Drinking coffee is at the heart of


Austrian culture and the Austrian
coffeehouses are more a way of life
than anything else.The exchange
of information and gossip around
the traditional newspaper table
can easily take hours. People
take their time to catch up on
international affairs, to talk and
eat ein Würsteln or a pastry.
The elegant environment of soft
chatter and the delicate sound of
spoons stirring in porcelain cups Small statue of we have to go back to the famous success of the Habsburg dynasty in
Kolschitzky
are a perfect fit for Vienna, the Kahlenberg Battle of 12 September Central Europe. And the Ottomans
cosmopolitan city of diplomats 1683 when the combined forces left plenty of treasures on the
and artists. Many writers and of the Holy Roman Empire and battlefield as King John Sobieski
poets have adopted cafés as their the Kingdom of Poland fended described in a letter to his wife:
favourite place to work. Some even off a second Ottoman siege. The “Ours are treasures unheard of...
had their mail delivered there. Ottomans had tried for a very long tents, sheep, cattle and no small
time to capture Vienna, but this number of camels... it is victory as
But what are the origins of this mother of all battles ended once nobody ever knew it before, the
institution? Where did the passion and for all the Ottoman hegemony enemy now completely ruined,
for coffee come from? For this in the area and was the start of the everything lost for them.”
82
LIVING HERITAGE

Coffee at The Ottomans also left


Schönbrunn
instruments like cymbals and the
Café Hawelka timpani, which would quickly
make their way into western
music. Among the many treasures
was also a collection of 500 sacks
containing beans, which were
thought to be camel feed. But
the spy Georg Franz Kolschitzky
(1640-1694) who spoke Romanian
and Turkish and who had, with
his Serbian assistant Đorđe
Mihajlović, infiltrated the
Ottoman camp many times, knew
exactly what the beans were for.
He had lived in Istanbul as a young
man and knew the power of the
mysterious beans. Kolschitzky
added milk and sugar to the bitter
concoction and started serving
small cups of coffee going door
to door in an Ottoman costume.
Since that fateful day, Vienna has
been running on coffee. Very soon
after, others picked up on this
invigorating new beverage and On 12 September 1885, the image – with a large moustache
the rest is, as they say, history. Kolschitzkygasse, a street named and fez and dressed in traditional
Coffee had started its unstoppable in Kolschitzky’s honour, welcomed Ottoman fashion – can still be seen
conquest of the world. a small statue which still adorns in some of the classic Viennese
the corner house. Paintings of his coffee houses.
A symphony of chaming grace since 1892
The Hotel Bristol, a Luxury Collection Hotel next to the Vienna State Opera has been
an inspiring meeting point for Vienna’s cultural and business life for around 120 years.
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84
LIVING HERITAGE

Faith in the Future:

900 years of
Klosterneuburg

Klosterneuburg,
photo by Heinz Maybe it would have been even more romantic if it had
Leopold III of started with a prayer, but it started with a veil.
Babenberg
The Virgin Mary appeared to Leopold III of Babenberg
(1073 – 1136), later known as Leopold the Good, and
showed him the location of the veil of his wife Agnes,
which she had lost years before.
Coffee at the
Butterfly Green
House
Interior, 85
photo by Effi
Schweizer

Klosterneuburg
in the 17th
century by
Georg Mätthaus
Vischer

the same. The monks developed The monastery is home to a


the monastery into the centre series of important works of
of religious life, culture and art, from the world-famous 12th
scholarship it still is today, 900 century Verdun Altar to the Titan
years later. Even Leopold is still sculptures of Lorenzo Mattielli
here. In 1663, under the rule of and even a collection of modern
his namesake Emperor Leopold paintings. The library contains
I, he was declared patron saint 30,000 volumes and numerous
of Austria. His skull with an manuscripts. This rich result
archducal crown is kept in an of centuries of collecting can be
embroidered relic holder with his seen in an impressive ensemble
forehead exposed. of buildings, with thematic
tours, from the sacred tour to the
A miracle had happened and on But staying close to its roots does imperial tour and the very popular
this exact spot he established not imply that the monastery is wine cellar tour, which reveals the
the Klosterneuburg Monastery not open to new ideas. Its balanced great history of the oldest winery
in 1114, a year after he had made relationship with nature and the in Austria.
the settlement suitable as a environment makes sense in an
residence. Much has changed since age where sustainability is key. In 2006 Klosterneuburg was
the monastery’s founding, but awarded a Diploma in the
for the Canons Regular of Saint And, perhaps more important, restoration category of the EU
Augustine of Klosterneuburg the the monks have had 900 years to Prize for Cultural Heritage/
essential things have remained refine their wine-making skills. Europa Nostra Awards.
86
FICTION & FACT

Favourite Things
It is the summer of 1964, exactly 50 years ago. A freezing and
angry Julie Andrews battles the sudden gusts of wind of the
camera helicopter while director Robert Wise is biting his
nails to finish the last shooting of a film already two months
behind schedule.

Trapp Villa
garden Then for one short glorious Nazis in 1938 with Julie Andrews But in Austria The Sound of
moment the sun breaks through as Maria and Christopher Plummer Music is certainly not one of the
the clouds and the most famous as Captain Georg von Trapp went country’s Favourite Things. Many
opening shot of movie history is on to win five Oscars including an Austrian eyebrow is raised
a fact. The Sound of Music may best film. Austria became forever when once again an international
be the ultimate romantic film we connected to rolling alpine hills orchestra plays Edelweiss thinking
all love to hate or hate to love. and a dancing and twirling Maria it is an old Austrian song or
The cinematic retelling of the von von Trapp. It is one of the most even the national anthem. On
Trapp family story escaping the successful films ever made. the other hand each year tens
87

Story of the Trapp Family Singers.


In the late 1950s the book was
the inspiration of two German/
Austrian films but it was the
Broadway-musical (1959)
with music by Rodgers and
of thousands of tourists travel Hammerstein that made the von
to Austria to see the locations Trapps a worldwide sensation.
of the film for themselves. And Maria had sold her rights to the
the tourist industry especially book at a small price and the
around Salzburg gives the visitors money Hollywood made did not
the opportunity to Climb Ev’ry profit the family directly.
Mountain. Making money off the
back of the success of the film is as So what is real and what is not?
easy as Do-Re-Mi. The von Trapp What is true cultural heritage
family received medals of Honor and what is a Hollywood
from the Salzburg government in fabrication? Separating fact from
1998. Hollywood can be a strong fiction is always tricky but in the
Julie Andrews
impetus for heritage success case of the von Trapps it is even wife. They had already two in the Sound of
stories: from James Bond movies more complicated. children by the time The Sound Music (photo
courtesy 20th
to the Sisi Films, the shooting of Music tells us they met for Century Fox)
locations attract visitors from The real Maria von Trapp the first time. And it was not
across the globe. (1905-1987), a novice, became that romantic either. The real Von Trapp
Family
a governess to the von Trapp Maria spoke of a mostly loveless
The Sound of Music is based on the children after their mother marriage. The von Trapps started
musical based on the bestseller Agathe had died. In 1927 she their successful singing career
book by Maria von Trapp, The became the Captain’s second in 1935 after a financial mishap
88
FICTION & FACT

Maria’s
apartment in the
Trapp Villa in
Salzburg

Lobby

Breakfast room
89

Maria von Trapp’s USA immigration


papers

which had decimated the family


fortune. Their family villa in Aigen,
a suburb of Salzburg, still exists and
was transformed into a luxury hotel
in 2008. Breakfast is still served
with everybody seated around one
big family table and you can even
stay in Maria’s apartment, a one
bedroom suite overlooking the lush
gardens, a trifle more spacious than
Maria’s real room must have been.
The Villa Trapp is nonetheless a
special place where the real and the
imagined history go hand in hand
peacefully. Sitting in the garden,
with the imposing mountains as
a backdrop, it is easy to imagine
how the extended von Trapp family
must have lived here.

The von Trapps fled Salzburg in


1938, not by a hazardous journey
as in the film, but by train via Italy.
They managed to continue their
success in the USA. In 1947 father
Georg died, but the rest of the
family kept singing and touring.
They finally settled in Stowe,
Vermont, in what was to become
another hotel, still run by family
members today, the Von Trapp
Lodge.

The last of the singing children, also


called Maria von Trapp, died this
year at the age of 99.
90 Exterior
Dorotheum
LIVING HERITAGE

The first auction in the history


of auctions was probably held in
Vienna, in the famous Dorotheum
Palace. “There is a Swedish
company which is older,” manager
Martin Böhm explains, “but
they did not really start as an
auction house as we did, in 1707.”
The Pawn & Query Bureau was
founded by the young Emperor
Joseph I as an exchange for
property, moveable goods and
even labour services. “We moved
to this building in 1901”, says

Going, Going, STAY:


Böhm. “It was opened by Emperor
Franz Joseph I. Some people
who enter here for the first time
assume it used to be a palace of
The longstanding tradition of some sort, but no private house
would ever have ornamental
the Dorotheum Auction house. staircases as we do. It was built as
91

features and embedded them into


a wall in our courtyard to make a
connection between the present
and the past.” Böhm draws our
attention to the stone staircases.
“This was a very particular
talent which was very rare in
Inner courtyard
Europe. To make these delicately with elements of
balanced stone staircases requires the old church
and monastery
real craftsmanship which
was available here in Vienna. Entrance hall
Elsewhere in Europe you can find
ornate wooden staircases which
are relatively easy to make, but
these slabs of stone in one piece
perfectly fit on top of one another
to make a staircase which is not
only beautiful to look at but also
very strong. It is the result of
real stonemason expertise and
an auction house and that’s why of Vienna. You wonder what was knowledge handed down over
it’s still functional today.” here before, as it is quite a large centuries.”
plot to suddenly encounter in the
It would be an easy mistake to heart of the city. “The original Downstairs we find a regular pawn
make, because in Vienna you building was an old monastery shop and a fixed-price auction
seem to find a palace on every and church,” Martin Böhm tells shop, packed with bargain hunters
street corner.. The Dorotheum is us while he shows us around. “We looking for that one treasure that
a majestic building in the centre kept some of the most interesting perfectly fits their collection.
92
Central
LIVING HERITAGE

staircase

Auction room

Just let your eyes wander past procedures below. Here is where
the display cases filled with the the real action is, a continuous
wonders of centuries past, trying stream of works of art, design
to capture the human spirit and and craftsmanship changing
condition in works of art and hands at lightning speed. The
maybe not-so-much-art. Forgotten hammer comes down again and
landscapes hang above cupboards again. For the easily excited it is
with exotic wooden inlays. Art a dangerous place. Things you
deco jewellery, ornamental never suspected you wanted
sculptures, antique toys and even a to own all of a sudden become
signed baseball bat softly whisper a must-have obsession. This is
‘buy me’. what the auction experience is
about. Suspense hangs in the
The Dorotheum’s display rooms room, adrenaline surges and the
upstairs operate like a museum on age old passion for the hunt is
espresso. Every few weeks or even guided by the experienced hand
days, the exhibitions as well as of the auctioneers. “It never fails
collections change completely. For to be exciting,” Böhm confesses.
every major auction a catalogue “No auction is ever the same.
and a new interior design is made. Unexpected things always happen.
New experts are brought in, new Some objects sell beyond even
potential buyers and collectors their most optimistic estimates,
are approached, and the staff others suddenly lag behind for no
are continuously recreating and discernible reason. It is always
rebuilding the display room to thrilling to be in the room.”
accommodate the objects for yet
another auction. The Dorotheum has seen more
art change hands than most other
Next is the beautiful auction auction houses across the world,
room with the ornamental crest but as they say, it never gets old.
of emperor Franz Joseph I, a For the passionate collector as well
symbolic presence of the emperor as for the occasional buyer, a well
who gave the auction house its organized auction is irresistible;
central position in Viennese that magical moment, when you
society. He is in a metaphysical know it’s yours!
sense still watching the hectic
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94
COUNTRY DREAMS

Ernst Fuchs in
2007

A House for
All Seasons
All of a sudden I feel a presence behind
me. For a second the frail man with
surprisingly observant eyes could be
mistaken for a lifelike statue, but then I
notice one bandaged hand and the other
lifting an ornate walking stick.
95

headquarters. By 1960 the once- Wagner villa


around 1900
glorious villa was forgotten and in
a poor state, waiting for oblivion or
a saviour.

When Ernst Fuchs was still a child


he had made his grandmother a
promise:”When I am older I will
buy you a house.” And he did. He
fulfilled his promise in 1972 and
his grandmother and his mother
lived in this magical house in
a quiet suburb, surrounded by
lush forest, for the rest of their
lives. But just buying a house for
Exterior
grandmother was not enough.
Wagner villa It had to be much more. Fuchs
wanted to create the ultimate
house, the perfect house, to
The 84-year-old Ernst Fuchs the famous Wiener Secession capture his artistry in stone.
(b.1930) just returned home movement. The villa was a
after a short stay at the hospital, sensation when it was built and for Fuchs’ house is a living museum,
fragile and literally supported years it was the place to be for the as the artist still lives where he
by family members. He is as ever cultural elite of Vienna. Around creates. And what he has created
immaculately dressed, augmented 1900 Wagner changed the patio is an elaborate dream, lusciously
by his signature colourful fez and into a Jugendstil jewel with stained captured in a villa. The house
flowing beard. It has been over 40 glass windows by Adolf Böhm seems to burst at its seams with
years since Fuchs acquired this depicting the Vienna Woods. art. Fuchs not only painted
beautiful villa in Hütteldorf on the the paintings and sculpted the
outskirts of Vienna. Later Wagner would design a sculptures;, he also designed the
smaller villa for himself next door. furniture, the floors, the walls,
The classical Roman style house The house was sold to a famous the ceilings and the gardens. It
was built in 1888 by Otto Wagner, businessman, Ben Tiber, and feels like walking around in the
the Austrian Jugenstil architect during the war expropriated by the man’s head. And Fuchs’ head is
who was one of the founders of Nazis and made into a Hitler Youth a labyrinth of creation. He is not
96
COUNTRY DREAMS

Interior Wagner only an artist in the traditional have been beautifully restored. design and the floating painting
villa sense, he is also an opera set The sun filters through the behind it. The upstairs bathroom
designer, a composer, a poet and an colourful panels and bathes the doubles as an art gallery. The
activist. art deco room and Fuchs’ intense specially-designed floor tiles feel
paintings in a dreamy light. His a bit shaky and vulnerable under
Adolf Böhm’s stained glass bedroom seems elongated, a my feet. The wash basin stands
windows of the Vienna Woods feeling increased by the bed’s at the end of an ornamental pool
97

and offers a good view of the villa’s garden house is surrounded St. Jakob in Thal
Church
gardens, which subtly change by sculptures and wild coloured
from structured nature into vases.
wilderness. As with many artists
who were at the top of their Discovering Fuchs’ villa is an
game in the 1960s, several rooms exciting and rewarding excursion.
reveal an uncomplicated attitude It is clear that what the artist
towards eroticism. Fuchs is of the created here will easily withstand
generation of Hundertwasser (see the test of time. Maybe the all-
elsewhere in this magazine) and encompassing art concept of a
Arnulf Rainer. He recently had living artist is not recognized
an exhibition in his villa together enough in today’s Austria, but
with Yoko Ono and large portraits I predict his villa will become a
of John Lennon mix perfectly with sensation in years to come. We
Fuchs’ paintings and furniture. may no longer be allowed to walk
on the bathroom floor tiles or sit
The little chapel and fountain down on the seats of the exotic
in the garden is reminiscent of a little strange, as if a collection furniture, but the magic of Fuchs’
Fuchs’ church in St.Jakob im Tal of colourful tiles went crazy and vision will be as strong as ever.
near Graz. It is busy, bright and took possession of the design. The
98
FICTION & FACT

I wander lonely
in this world
The world of Empress Sisi

“Ein Unergründlich
tiefer See
Ist meine Seele, There are very few historical
Den ich oft selber nicht figures that have captured the
versteh.”
imagination as much as Elisabeth,
the longest-reigning Empress of
Austria (1837-1898). We all know
her of course as Sisi. In that very
special universe that is reserved
for Lady Di, Princess Gracia and
the like, Sisi has secured lasting
loyalty among fans and admirers
as much as historians. She has
become a mythical cultural
treasure, whose imagery can be
seen everywhere in Austria even
today, more than a century after
her death. She is as much a brand
as she is cultural heritage. We may
never understand how this kind of
stargazing works, but everything
that is connected to her memory
– from Possenhofen Castle in
“My soul is an Elisabeth, Bavaria where she grew up, the
Franz Joseph unfathomably deep Empress of
of Austria as a lake, which I often do Austria Augustinian Church in the centre
young man not understand myself.” of Vienna where she got married,
99
“I wander lonely in this world,
Delight and life long time averted,
No confidant to share my inner self,
A matching soul never revealed.”

adjusting to her new role. She Elisabeth


was watched over constantly and Memorial
Church at the
had very little opportunity to live Schneeberg
her own life. Tragedy struck for (1901), photo by
Stattmann
the first time in 1857 when her
first daughter Sophie died as an
infant. She became increasingly
Schönbrunn Palace where she used restless and started to travel
to live in summer, the Sisi Museum Laxenburg Castle, to Venice and especially Corfu.
photo by Stattmann
in the Hofburg where she used to She was admired for her beauty
live in winter, Bad Ischl where she and its cultivation became an
used to spent her holidays to name increasing obsession. She had to
but a few – attracts enthusiastic Libraries full of biographies have be in perfect shape with perfect
visitors, revelling in the magic been published since her death. skin and a scarily small wasp
of the myth. Any shop, café or a But let’s start by looking at some waist. She called herself a ‘slave
restaurant that can claim she once of the facts. Sisi was born on to my hair.’ She exercised with
entered the building for whatever Christmas Eve 1837 in München contraptions which could easily be
reason, knows it will generate and spent a happy childhood confused with torture equipment.
attention and bring additional as one of seven siblings. Her Although she was known on rare
income. parents, Duke Max of Bavaria and occasions to binge, most of the
Ludovika were relaxed parents time she ate next to nothing. After
The real Elisabeth, the woman of with no real chance of ever the tragic suicide of her only son
flesh and blood standing quietly ascending to a throne. Sisi was not Rudolf in 1889, Elisabeth grew
behind the curtain, can easily be so much a princess as a tomboy. increasingly depressed, eccentric
forgotten while the circus show But her life changed in 1853 and unapproachable. She wore
around her life, as much a comedy when, on a trip to Bad Ischl, the only black. The public no longer
as a tragedy, is being performed on young Emperor Franz Joseph was knew what she looked like, as all
the world stage. But the woman in immediately bowled over by the portraits were forbidden. She died
the wings has left us some insights beautiful 15-year-old and chose her unexpectedly in 1898 on a visit to
in her life in the form of her poetic over her sister Helene, as had been Geneva when she was stabbed by
diary and the personal memories the original plan. The engagement the attention-hungry anarchist
of the people close to her. We can was announced the next day and Luigi Lucheni. Lucheni’s aim was
look at some of her obsessions, her in April 1854 the wedding took to kill royalty: after failing to kill
doubts, her pre-occupations and place in the Wiener Augustinian the Duke of Orléans, he instead
her passions. Church. Sisi had a hard time murdered Sisi with a needle-file.
100 Since 1994 the Sisi Museum in the
Hofburg illustrates how a once
FICTION & FACT

light-hearted young girl became a


restless and melancholic woman.
More than 300 items, including
parasols, boxes and gloves,
beauty recipes, her death mask, a
reconstructed dress and the actual
file used in her assassination, are
on display in the museum.

Bad Ischl Elisabeth on meeting Prince Edward of Wales (later Sophie came. For she came every day, to spy on what
King Edward VIII) I was doing at any hour. I was completely at the mercy
of this completely malicious woman. Everything I
We were sitting cosily together in the drawing room, did was bad. She passed disparaging judgments on
Prince Edward and I. anyone I loved. She found out everything because she
He whispered sweet nothings and romanticized, never stopped prying. The whole house feared her so
He said he loved me. much that everyone trembled. Of course they told her
He drew me very close and took my hand, everything. The smallest thing was an affair of state.”
And whispered: “Dear Cousin, how about it?”
I laughed heartily and threatened him, There was little love lost between Sisi and her mother-
“There is somebody on their way up,” in-law Archduchess Sophie
We listened, but it was nothing,
And the funny game continued. Once I requested the Emperor to take me along to
Sir Edward was heroic, Vienna. I spent the whole day there with him. For one
Yes, and very bold. day I did not see her. (i.e. Archduchess Sophie) but
I did not defend myself, it was interesting, no sooner had we arrived back home in the evening
I laughed:”Dear cousin, how about it?” or she came running to me. She forbade me to ever
Then he became shy and whispered softly, do anything like that again. She reviled me so much
“There is somebody on their way up.” because it is unseemly for an Empress to go running
after her husband and to drive back and forth like a
Her lady in waiting countess Marie Festetics wrote in cadet. Of course after that it was stopped.
her diary what Elisabeth said in 1850 as she showed
her around in Castle Laxenburg where she and Franz She even went as far as to issue an ultimatum but
Joseph had spent their honeymoon. without much success:

Elisabeth went from room to room, said of each room I wish to have reserved to me absolute authority in all
what it was, but without more detailed commentary, matters concerning the children, the choice of the people
until finally she stopped in a corner room where a around them, the place of their residence, the complete
desk stood between windows and a desk chair before supervision of their education, in a word, everything is
it; she stood quiet as a mouse for a long time, suddenly left entirely to me to decide, until the moment of their
she said: “Here I wept a lot, Marie. The mere thought majority. I further wish that, whatever concerns my
of that time constricts my heart. I was here after my personal affairs, such as, among others, the choice of
wedding... I felt so abandoned, so lonely. Of course the people around me, the place of my residence, all
the Emperor could not be here during the day, early arrangements in the house etc. be reserved to me alone
every morning he went to Vienna. At six o’clock he to decide.
returned for dinner. Until then I was alone all day Elisabeth.
long and was afraid of the moment when Archduchess Bad Ischl, 27 August 1865
Café in Bad 101
Ischl which Sisi
visited

Elisabeth wrote Franz Joseph a month after his She returns homebound to those regions,
coronation as King of Hungary in 1867. She was ill or Where allied, kinder souls abide.”
perhaps already pregnant of her fourth child Marie-
Valerie. Elisabeth asked countess Marie Festetics during one
of their walks in Hungarian:
“Perhaps I am expecting. During this uncertainty, the
Salzburg visit is very depressing. I can weep all day “Aren’t you surprised that I live like a hermit?”
long, that is how infinitely sad I am. My dear soul,
comfort me, I need it very much. I have lost all interest, And she explained: “I have no alternative but to
I do not want to go riding or walking. All, all is vanity.” choose this life. In the outside world, I have been so
persecuted, they have said so many evil things about
To Titania, 1888 me, I have been so maligned, been so deeply offended
“Titania shall not go where people walk and hurt, and God sees my soul, sees that I have never
This world, where no one understands her, done anything evil. So I thought I would find a society
Where hundred thousand gazers her beleaguer, that does not disturb my peace and which offers me
Whispering and prying, “Look, the fool, look there!” pleasure. The forest does not hurt me...Nature is much
Where jealousy and envy seek her out, more rewarding than Humanity.”
Schönbrunn
To distort her every action,
Palace
102
FEATURE

Ski slopes at
Rastkogel,
photo by Petr
Novák

The Slalom of
Alpine Conservation
Humans have been skiing for over
5000 years, but only in the 19th century
did they start to combine it with
luxury hotels, fashion statements and
après-ski. In olden days people would
go out on skies to hunt down deer
or wild boar, nowadays paparazzi
hunt down celebrities and royals on
the white slopes of the Austrian ski
Skiing around
resorts such as Lech am Arlberg and 1900

Zell am See.
103

otherwise perfect face, but others


seem to blend perfectly with the
surrounding landscape. One of the
best examples are the Nordkette
Cableway Stations in Innsbruck,
growing like white stony
plants from the mountain. The
restoration of the exteriors and the
necessary modernization of the
Today skiing is as much about interiors revitalised an important Nordkette
cableway
physical exercise and sporting monument of 1920s Alpine
Stations,
achievements as it is about architecture. It was awarded with Innsbruck
seasonal holidays. And so every the European Union Prize for
The marmot is a
winter the Austrian mountains Cultural Heritage / Europa Nostra famous example
are covered with the bright and Awards in 2010. The ride from the of Alpine
wildlife
colourful blanket of mass tourism. city centre to an alititude of 2.300
metres takes only 20 minutes but
With the interest in skiing on a clear day the experience will
rocketing in the last century, stay with you forever.
many traditional villages that had
slept through the centuries, were When skiing holidays started
roughly awakened to upgrade to become a yearly reality for
their facilities and adapt to new many European families, with it
circumstances. Shops opened came alpine degradation and the
up, restaurants started and difficult balancing act between
roads were widened. During the nature conservation and tourism
Christmas season many towns development. It is a challenging
are now busier than the beaches slalom trying to overcome the
of the Costa del Sol in summer. pitfalls of millions of visitors in a
Ski lifts and ski hotels spread like delicate and vulnerable ecosystem.
wild flowers on the quiet Austrian Sustainability is the key word, but
hills. Some are a blemish on an it is never easy.
104
FEATURE

The World Wide Fund for Nature of a unique cultural landscape nature and its cultural landscape
(WWF) is worried about the in which men and nature have in close cooperation with the
Alps in general and the Austrian lived together harmoniously for Austrian authorities and the local
Alps in particular. The impact of thousands of years. For instance, communities. New conservation
climate change, the pressures of as WWF states, extensively strategies are urgently needed
urban development, intensified farmed Alpine meadows located to secure the beauty of the Alps
agricultural use and the needs of at 2000 metres above sea level for future generations. Going
tourism all have had an impact support up to 80 species of plants downhill is only a good thing in
on one of Europe’s truly natural per hundred square metres. Their skiing, not in cultural and natural
strongholds. It is an example European Alpine Programme conservation practices.
(EALP) is helping to save Alpine
IDEAS AND CREATIVITY ARE AT THE
HEART OF OUR VALUE CREATION
Bertelsmann’s Chairman and CEO Thomas Rabe on how
Europe’s biggest media company is working to uphold
important cultural treasures in the digital age.
European cultural history could not have been written without the wealth of
ideas and the inspiration of generations of creative people. Nowhere else in
the world have so many groundbreaking ideas emerged in recent centuries,
creating so many unique works. The diversity of Europe’s cultural heritage
is second to none – whether in writing, music, or painting, on the stage, on
screen or – as is common today – on mobile devices.

As one of the world’s oldest media companies, Bertelsmann has had the
privilege of playing an active role in this unique history for nearly 180 years.
Today in the digital age we are Europe’s largest media company, with leading
market positions in the areas of television, books, magazines, music, services
and printing. At the same time, this means we have a great responsibility to
European cultural heritage. Digitization opens up new opportunities, not only
for our businesses, but also for fulfilling this responsibility.

One of the most valuable achievements of digitization consists of bringing the


trendsetting works of a given era to later generations in a way that is up-to-
date but still true to the original. Today, we can gain an idea of how the “Abbey
Road” album would have sounded if it had been recorded 40 years later. We
can tap into Charles Darwin’s insights through written texts and the spoken
word, but also interactively on a tablet. And we can present classic movies that
are almost 100 years old, not only in new splendor, but also to new audiences.

That is why Bertelsmann recently was the main sponsor behind the
restoration of the German silent movie classic “The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari,”
a cinematic milestone of the 1920s. We were particularly concerned about
showcasing this important piece of film history in a modern yet authentic way.
Because we believe that such a classic should not be confined to the archives,
but should also be seen in high quality on movie and TV screens, as a Blu-
ray on computers, or as a stream on tablets. In short, wherever our audience
expects its favorite content to be in the digital age.

At the same time Bertelsmann is in the process of introducing the legendary


Archivio Storico Ricordi, one of the world’s most valuable privately held
music collections, to a wider public. Its inventory includes nearly 8,000
original scores of more than 600 operas – including precious original
manuscripts of Giuseppe Verdi and Giacomo Puccini – and around 10,000
libretti. Bertelsmann has owned the Archivio Ricordi since 1994. When we
sold the parent company in 2006, we made a deliberate decision to keep the
archive, and to preserve its historically valuable holdings and make them
visible for posterity. After stops in Milan and Berlin, the “Enterprise of Opera”
exhibition – a first step in this process – opens in Brussels this month.

These are just two examples of our efforts to raise public awareness of
significant works of European cultural heritage. We know that the ideas and
creativity of our artists, writers and journalists are the heart of our value
creation. It is they who constantly reinvent our offers – and who, day by
day, tell stories that inform, entertain and inspire. Therefore, we will work
steadily to ensure that they get the appreciation they deserve. This includes an
unwavering commitment to the protection of intellectual property – because
intellectual property is probably the most important resource available to us
in Europe.

Thomas Rabe
Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of Bertelsmann
Treasure Trove
106
TREASURE

To call the Kunstkammer Vienna (Chamber of Art and Wonders), part of the
Kunsthistorisches Museum (Art History Museum), an art museum is like calling Mozart
a composer of catchy tunes. The Kunstkammer houses one of the most important art
collections in the world. After restoration of the galleries, the museum was reopened
in 2013. It has been a triumph, for the art lover as well as the visiting tourist.

Exterior
Kunsthistorisches
Museum

Exterior
Naturhistorisches
Museum
107

The Habsburgs who ruled the from almost magical automatons, and reflect the emperor’s desire
Austro-Hungarian Empire were unbelievably fine jewellery and to capture all that was known
not only immensely rich but also creative scientific instruments to and admired in the period. The
were avid collectors of the exotic simply the best art works money tasteful galleries show collections
and unusual. They were also could buy or inspire. They offer dating from ancient Egypt up to
very easily bored. The museum the ultimate collection of the the beginning of the modern era.
has over 2000 works on display; Renaissance and Baroque periods The restoration has quite literally
108
TREASURE

Prehistoric bird cast a new light on treasures that and houses 30 million specimens From Martian meteorites and
have to be seen to be believed. and artefacts. Maybe its most moon stones to unexpected
Skeleton
reconstruction loved treasure - besides huge animatronics of dinosaurs, which
early human Across the park, like a dinosaur skeletons and the largest might terrify but thrill young
Egyptian mirror image, we find the and oldest meteorite collection in visitors, the museum not only
collection Naturhistorisches Museum the world - is the 25,000-year-old invites exploration, but, together
Kunsthistorisches
(Natural History Museum), figure of the Venus of Willendorf. with the Kunsthistorisches
Museum
possessing one of the largest, The tiny sculpture of a voluptuous Museum, it forms a perfect
Salt cellar by oldest, and most noteworthy woman seems to float in a beam
Benvenuto Bust of Emperor
natural history collections in of light at the centre of the Leopold I (1640
Cellini (1540-
1543) the world. The building was museum galleries. Nearby in a – 1705) with
the famous
completed two years before the well-designed cabinet we find Habsburg
Kunsthistorisches other, less known ancient artefacts jaw
Museum which could easily rival the
artistic quality of the Venus. Many
unsuspecting visitors are caught
in their spell. The tiny sculptures,
often made of animal bone, evoke
a direct emotional response across
the millenia. Silently we watch the
small and finely sculptured head
of a horse and a prehistoric dancer
caught in a flowing movement
even older than the famous Venus.
109

Kunstkammer
ceiling

Interior
Kunsthistorisches
Museum

Female bust
by Francesco
Laurana (1430–
1502), photo by
Vassil

afternoon. The cafés at the top of to shame. The neo-baroque style


both buildings are definitely the created some of the most beautiful
places to be for lunch. 19th century interiors, probably
unrivalled in any other European
The ensemble of museum museum. The museums lie in
buildings at the Ringstrasse took the heart of the historic centre
decades to complete and was of Vienna, a UNESCO World
supposed to put Imperial Rome Heritage site.
Natural
110
COUNTRY DREAMS

Partners
It is a magical place right out of a fairytale.
The Thayatal Natural Park feels as if it
was thought up by Disney artists during
the making of Snow White. It is almost
unnaturally beautiful and charming.

Just before entering the National


Park and the village of Hardegg,
which is at the centre of the park,
we come across a modern building
of wood and glass floating above
the forest ground. The National
Park Centre was opened in 2003
and its bright interrior shows us
the ThayaTales, an exhibition
on the origin and the natural
treasures of the park.

The park contains a wealth of


untouched meadows, deep forests
and river valleys. Kingfishers dive
for fish, more than ten species
of woodpeckers hammer away
at dead trees and the cuckoo, the
wood warbler and the blue tit
compose a background symphony
of life. Above a bright ocean of
flowing wild spring flowers zoom
dragonflies, bumblebees and
beetles. Back from their African
winter holiday, black storks
walk slightly comically along the
meandering Thaya river. Emerald
lizards bask in the sunlight and
the grasshoppers, butterflies and
jumping spiders quickly get out
111

of the way of human explorers.


The hills are dotted with medieval
castles and mysterious ruins. Even
in summer the water of the Thaya
is still fresh and cool and creates
a magical micro climate, a dream
of biodiversity and beauty. The
forests are home to large game and
the undergrowth is teeming with
animals of the small and furry
kind and the occasional snake on
the prowl. You never know, maybe
even a lynx is hiding between the
trees. Wildcats definitely feel at
home here.
this border area between the project, which shares information
The Thayatal National Park is East and the West developed and discusses potential dangers
not only a place of great beauty undisturbed for years and even to both parks. They also develop
it is also a fine example of cross before the Berlin Wall came down, projects together to attract more
border cooperation. National Park environmentalists on both sides visitors. Thayatal National Park
Podyjí lies on the southeastern realised that this was a unique works as much as possible under a
border of the Czech and Moravian chance to preserve a rare and commercial business model.
highlands and is an exceptionally pristine part of Europe’s natural
well-preserved river-valley heritage. National Park Podyjí In 2007, the Lower Austrian
landscape with canyons of as much opened in 1991. Thayatal National Government awarded director
as 200 meters deep. The Dyje Park officially followed in 2000 Robert Brunner its gold medal for
river meanders quietly through but is substantially smaller than special achievements in Lower
a plant and animal community Podyjí. Ever since they have been Austria. Norbert Kellner, former
unique in Europe. During the working together, for instance mayor and long-standing chairman
cold war the flora and fauna in in the ‘Nature without Borders’ of the Thayatal National Park’s
112
To bee or not to bee
COUNTRY DREAMS

Across the globe bee populations are severely threatened.


As a result of processes not fully understood, the bees no
longer seem to function as they did before. Hive numbers
have been declining. We associate bees obviously with
honey, but the pollination of over 70% of all European
crops are dependent on insects; think of fruits like apples,
pears, tomatoes and apricots, but also vegetables from
carrots to onions, from cucumbers to pumpkins, almonds
and walnuts, herbs and medicinal plants. 90% of wild
flowers depend on pollination and it is essential to Europe’s
biodiversity. We have more than 2000 species of bees
in Europe and some of them have declined dramatically
through loss of habitat, agrochemicals, parasites and
diseases as well as competition between wild and managed
species, climate change and non-native plants. A cohesive
network of cooperation at a European level is necessary,
as bees are not only an economical value, they are part of
Europe’s cultural heritage.

advisory board, was awarded the awards diplomas to ‘protected, the park’s popularity. From
silver medal of the Republic of natural and semi-natural areas and challenging hiking trails to cosy
Austria. He received in 2008 the landscapes of special European bed&breakfasts, the Thayatal-
highest recognition in the field of importance for the preservation Podyjí National Parks are a great
nature conservation: the Josef- of biological, geological and place to retreat from the busy
Schöffel Prize. landscape diversity.’) world for a few days, an unspoiled
wonder in the heart of Europe
And the initiative has been noted All the efforts have paid off. The
by international organizations park sees steadily growing visitors www.np-thayatal.at
too; such as the International numbers. The surrounding www.europarc.org
Union for Conservation of Nature areas are getting in on the act
and the Council of Europe (which and have also profited from
Behind
Burg
Scenes
BURGTHEATER After the Comédie Française, the
Burgtheater in Vienna is Europe’s
Apart from the stage-art the Burgtheater
plays an important part in architecture
second-oldest theatre. Today, the Burg- and interior design of the 19th century
VIENNA theater, complete with its three affiliated
venues – the Akademietheater, Kasino
in Vienna. The magnificent decoration,
especially the two imperial staircases
and Vestibül – and a permanent ensemble painted by Gustav Klimt, his brother
of more than 80 actors and actresses, is Ernst Klimt and their companion Franz
one of Europe’s largest theatres and plays Matsch as well as the main foyer and the
a seminal role in the German-speaking many statues, busts and paintings of
theatrical world. famous writers and actors can be visited
during our daily guided tour.

Guided Tour „Burgtheater – Information and Contact:


behind the scenes“ Phone: +43(0) 1 514 44-4140
Monday – Thursday: Fax: +43(0) 1 514 44-4143
3 p.m. in German Mail: info@burgtheater.at
with English summary Universitätsring 2, 1010 Wien
Friday – Sunday:
3 p.m. German and English
(September to June)

www.burgtheater.at
114
LIVING HERITAGE

Harmannsdorf

Peace of Mind :

The Extraordinary life of


Bertha von Suttner
It is a misty morning in Harmannsdorf in Lower Austria. The
clouds have floated down to cover the hill in a soft, white
blanket. The sounds of cowbells and bleating sheep may be
heard far off and muted through the fog. The castle and the
small village surrounding it could not be more peaceful, a
perfect location for Bertha von Suttner (1843-1914), who spent
her days here, writing about a Europe without war.
Bertha von 115
Suttner

beginning of the 20th, peace was not in Austria, they made a new life
such a clearly defined goal as it is for themselves in Tiflis (now
today. In that sense we are all living Tbilisi in Georgia) where they
in Bertha von Suttner’s shadow. lived for almost ten years. The
family finally relented and in 1885
What would she have made of the Her life could have been much the couple returned to Austria,
European Union? It is a safe bet different. Born as Bertha Baronin retreating to what was supposed to
she would have been delighted Kinsky von Chinic und Tettau be a quiet life in Harmannsdorf.
and proud. She probably would she enjoyed the privileged life
have many improvements and of a young aristocrat at the Bertha had never thought of
suggestions, but her ideal, a Austrian court. Countess Kinsky, herself as an activist, but her
peaceful and unified Europe, has as she was then known, had the ideas about society and pacifism
in many ways become a reality. opportunity to live the high life, began to evolve into more than
Von Suttner was a woman who did travel around Europe and learn just writing material. In 1887
not fear to boldly go where no one, several languages. But all that was she began working with the
especially no woman, had gone about to change. By the time she International Arbitration and
before. Maybe today’s world is had reached 30, her inheritance Peace Association in London
still riddled with war but at least was all but spent and she started and she quickly developed a
the overall mindset is that peace working as a governess for the taste for more. Pacifism and the
is better than war. In a way all von Suttner family. The youngest skill of arbitration became the
politicians have, at least officially, son fell in love with her and, driving force of her life. Her book
become pacifists. In Von Suttner’s against the wishes of his family, The Machine Age had already
time, the late 19th century and the they married. No longer welcome established her as a pacifist writer,
116 so wholeheartedly, she dedicated
LIVING HERITAGE

herself to her work even more, as


figurehead of a growing pacifist
network, not just in Europe but also
in the rest of the world.

Before her marriage Bertha von


Suttner had briefly worked as
a personal assistant for Alfred
Nobel in Paris and this meeting
had left a lasting impression on
both. Nobel would support the
peace movement and Bertha’s
initiatives for many years. They
kept in close contact and it is clear
that the reason the philanthropist
put the establishment of a prize for
peace in his will had much to do
Harmannsdorf but it was Lay Down Your Arms layers of nationalistic fervor and with their friendship. He had also
(1889) that would project her militarism, would cement her role clearly intended her to be one of its
into the international limelight. as a leader of the international recipients: and so she was - in 1905 -
The bestseller, which showed the peace movement. After the death the fifth person and the first woman
abject horrors of war without the in 1902 of her husband, who to receive the Nobel Peace Prize.
usual glory and without the usual had supported her endeavours
The Peace Prize gave her the
opportunity to reach an even larger
audience and in her opinion this
was of vital importance. But she felt
her time running out. Physically
she was not well and the spectre of
World War I was casting its dark
shadow across the continent. She
kept saying to whoever wanted to
listen that Europe was one and that
working together harmoniously
was the only way forward. But
Europe was not ready for Von
Suttner’s message of peace and
arbitration. Although she remained
hopeful until the end, she died just
two months before the outbreak of
“But anyway,
World War I.
friends! Europe
means peace
since 1945. It is a Now, a hundred years after her
political project
in development. death, the message of Bertha von
It is a cultural Suttner is clearer than ever before.
passion!”
“Say, your friend
She would have been pleased – but
would not by perhaps also appalled.
any chance be
Ukranian?”
Cartoon on For more information on her life,
the European times and ideals check out www.
Elections by
Plantu, used by
berthavonsuttner.com, an initiative
permission of the Peace Palace in The Hague
WWW.EXPONATEC.DE
WWW.EXPONATEC.COM

MUSEUM • MUSEUM KULTURERBE • HERITAGE


18 – 20
NOVEMBER
2015

KONSERVIERUNG • CONSERVATION AUSSTELLUNG • EXHIBITION

INTERNATIONALE

Exhibition: © CERN – Universe of Particles. ATELIER BRÜCKNER / Michael Jungblut


FACHMESSE

Museum: © Kunsthalle der Neuen Residenz, Heritage: © Hypo-Kulturstiftung,


FÜR MUSEEN,
KONSERVIERUNG
UND KULTURERBE

INTERNATIONAL
TRADE FAIR
FOR MUSEUMS,
CONSERVATION
AND HERITAGE

Koelnmesse GmbH, Messeplatz 1, 50679 Cologne, Germany


Tel. +49 180 6267747, exponatec@koelnmesse.de
118 To call Vienna primarily a city of
FEATURE

the dead would be quite accurate


as more than 3 million people are
buried here, much more than the
present population of the city.
This particular cemetery was
the result of forward thinking.
19th century Vienna was growing
quickly and the Austro-Hungarian
Empire was booming. Nobody
foresaw the demise of the empire
and the small graveyards of the
city would not be able to cope with
the expected increase in demand.
A decision was made to go big
and inclusive. Not only would the
cemetery, designed by Frankfurter
architects Karl Jonas Mylius and
Alfred Friedrich Bluntschli, be
larger than large, it would be a
place where everybody could
rest in peace. Catholics and Jews,
Protestants and Muslims would be
laid to rest side by side, maybe not
literally, but they would at least
be in the same cemetery. This idea
immediately outraged community
leaders, as these things usually do.
The opening in 1874 was therefore
a sober and almost secretive affair,
so as not to cause further civic
unrest.

The site exceeds any expectation.

Resting In Peace It is a magnificent place. The


beautifully sculpted Jugendstil
gates open to the main street,

Vienna’s City of the Dead leading to the Karl Lueger

“Half the size of Zurich but twice the


fun,” is a little inside Austrian joke at
the expense of the Swiss about one the
Europe’s largest graveyards. The Central
Cemetery or Zentralfriedhof in the suburb
of Simmering on the outskirts of Vienna is
almost half the size of the city of Zurich.

Entrance to the
Central Cemetery
119
Mozart’s
memorial grave

Mozart
Museum,
Vienna

Mozart is still
very much a
part of Vienna

Memorial Church built by Max the place is so huge that walking


Hegele in the same style. Several from one side to the other can There are a special areas for people
large memorial buildings spread be challenging. Most elderly who donated their bodies to
out their arched galleries as visitors take the bus provided, science and for babies and young
welcoming arms. The graves, travelling between the Catholic, children.
some overgrown, others perfectly the Protestant and the two Jewish
maintained, exude a solemn grace, cemeteries. Orthodox Christians Simmering was originally far from
especially in the early morning and Muslims are buried here as the central city and it was quite a
fog. Normally cars are not allowed well, Buddhists joined the eternal journey to visit deceased relatives.
in a cemetery, let alone buses, but ranks in 2005, Mormons in 2009. As a result, its popularity suffered
120
FEATURE

Beethoven’s
death mask

and the city council decided that composers of all time were moved just around the corner. Brahms,
the cemetery should be made to their new resting place in Von Suppé, Gluck, Salieri, Wolf,
more appealing, not just to future the Central Cemetery and with Schönberg and Robert Stolz, to
clients, but also to tourists and great success. The tourists from name but a few, are all resting
visitors. The idea was quickly across the globe no longer have shoulder to shoulder. Even Mozart
developed to creative an exclusive to travel from parish church to puts in an appearance. Mozart
Behind the area for the rich and famous. And parish church to honour their is buried somewhere in the St.
memorial
galleries we in a city like Vienna, the classical heroes, they can just stroll from Mark’s cemetery but the exact
can just see the music capital of the world, they one composer to the next. Ludwig location is unknown. Popular
Karl Lueger
Memorial
had to be musical celebrities. In van Beethoven lies next to Franz myth tells us that Mozart was
Church 1888 many of the most famous Schubert. The Strauss family is dumped in a mass grave but that
121

is not really true. He was buried The Zentralfriedhof in Vienna An occasional crow may make Schönberg
in a wooden coffin in a spot is an amazing place to wile away an appearance but the peace and Suppé
shared with four others, as was a Sunday afternoon. Take your quiet in the cemetery make it a
the normal custom at the time walking shoes and spend some welcome escape from the busy city.
for people of the middle class. time in the company of the old Just take tram 71 from the centre of
The graves were later reused and Viennese. Some grave monuments Vienna - although for many locals
Mozart’s bones probably ended are constructed on ideas of ‘taking the 71’ is a euphemism for
up in an ossuary. The grave in the simplicity and functionality while death! And where else can you
Central Cemetery therefore does others are making grandiose walk among the world’s greatest
not contain an actual body - it is a statements, flanked by marble composers?
funerary memorial. sculptures and poetic citations.
122
Filip Radunović
PARTNER

‘Society should be supported by banks’

The ideals of
ERSTE Foundation
Long before ERSTE Foundation The roots of the organisation are ERSTE Foundation has a very
became a strong partner and friend still very much part of today’s strong commitment to Europe as
of European non-governmental commitment. a whole. They strongly believe,
organizations such as Europa as they state, ‘in a social, cultural
Nostra, there was the First ERSTE Foundation currently and economic area without borders,
Austrian Savings Bank. The controls a little over 20% of Erste with all its diverse natural beauty,
founding of the bank in 1819 was a Group Bank AG, one of the largest individualism and identities.’
pioneering, civil-society initiative. financial services providers in
It empowered ordinary people Central and South Eastern Europe. The organization initiates
to take their fate into their own It invests its dividend revenue in hundreds of projects to engage
hands by making provisions for social development projects in citizens of all backgrounds: from
the future. It was run by dedicated Austria and Central and South film festivals to social gatherings,
volunteers in a poor neighbourhood Eastern Europe. The foundation from community programmes
of the capital. The symbol of supports social participation and to a children’s choir, from a
the original bank, a bee, and the civil-society engagement; it brings library to the ERSTE Foundation
slogan ‘work, collect, proliferate’ people together and disseminates Community, a network of engaged
evokes an image of a prosperous knowledge of the recent history of organizations and individuals in
beehive and the role played by bees this region, which since 1989 has civil society and culture. ERSTE
in pollinating flowering plants. been undergoing dramatic change. Foundation offers an active
approach to social problem-solving,
123
cultural and artistic development
and European integration. They
have invested over 70 million Euros
since the official foundation in
2003.

Let’s take time to sit down with


Filip Radunović, Project Manager
Europe. This dynamic young
Poster of
man was born in Podgorica in Our objectives are defined in
‘Pioniri: My
Montenegro and grew up in our mission and vision for the History, Our
Munich, San Antonio and Vienna. future. If one looks at Europe History’-project
in the Balkans
With a background in semiotics and in 2014, a hundred years after
media psychology, he was a perfect the start of one of the greatest Film festival in
Romania
fit for a new and fast-growing to be a huge bonus. After six years human tragedies, it can appear
organization geared towards I can only confirm this very first that we – as Europeans – haven’t
exchanging ideas and creating impression. learned much from history. After
synergies on a European scale. the bloody Balkan conflicts of the
Banks suffered a lot of image 1990s, it seemed somehow natural
What attracted you to work for damage over the last few years: it for all of us to think that war on
ERSTE Foundation? must have been quite the opposite European soil was impossible. But
for you, as a bank which does recent developments in Ukraine,
I was 26 years old when I joined good for the community? and social unrest in Bosnia
ERSTE Foundation. That was and Herzegovina and other EU
nearly six years ago. At that Yes and no. Certainly, being a countries, show us that we still
moment the Foundation was in shareholder in a bank which uses need a peace-building process. 25
its fourth operational year as a part of its profits to support civil years after 1989 the old divisions
philanthropic institution. I clearly society is great. We are the good seem suddenly to be more alive
remember the first contact with ones! ERSTE Group has been doing than we thought. Although we
my boss and our first talks and retail business for people and real do not have huge ideological
interviews. The fascination of economy for almost 200 years. It’s differences any more, the potential
moving from Podgorica to Vienna a very old and, in the best sense of for conflict never seems far away.
to work for this unfamiliar (to the term, conservative business And it’s exactly here that the part
me, at that time) entity called model. But on the other hand many of our mission which contributes to
ERSTE Foundation lay in the people have been severely affected the European idea lies – to support
overall context of its existence and also scared by the financial those change processes so essential
and mission – a young, dynamic crisis. We – bank and foundation after the tragic socio-economic
organization which was set up to - therefore have to convince them, developments occurring after
Democracy
enhance social welfare in Central every day, through steady work the fall of the iron curtain, and to workshops in
and South Eastern Europe. The and investment in the both the empower a broad cultural exchange Montenegro
opportunity to become involved profit and non-profit sectors,
in such a broad spectrum of work, that there are models which can
covering various transformative provide positive alternatives for an
processes in culture, contemporary economic system that increasingly
arts, and social policy, with media seems to ignore people’s real needs.
freedom and entry into youth It’s not the banks which should be
work, seemed to me a remarkable saved by society, but society which
and most unusual privilege. And should be supported by the banks.
in the end, being young and willing
to contribute to the development What are the main objectives that
of such a body – and therefore be lie at the heart of the projects and
part of its social impact - seemed the initiatives of ERSTE?
124 and understanding between the Actually, our focus on architecture becoming - aware that their urban
PARTNER

formerly-divided parts of Europe. reflects dominant socio-economic and rural surroundings do have a
developments in the region. huge impact on their lives.
Do you see possibilities of The entire project which you
cooperation in the field of mention kicked off in Kosovo, a The New Narrative for Europe is
cultural heritage especially in couple of years after the war. We an EU initiative in which Europa
Central and Eastern Europe? do believe that architecture is a Nostra actively participates: but
participative and integral form of you have had a similar platform
We see cultural heritage in the social interaction which directly for exchanging ideas, knowledge
first place through non-material influences the quality of people’s and initiatives for many years,
goods and products of culture. We lives and their willingness to take haven’t you?
believe that only through creating part in various social processes. We
a common cultural space in Europe therefore started supporting small Yes, we have. And still do. We call it
- and one day hopefully beyond urban development initiatives the ERSTE Foundation Community
it - can we ensure that the material throughout the region: to form Meeting - an annual meeting of our
products and remains from our local and regional networks and main project partners. It serves as a
past, and those yet to come, are enable neighbors to form a critical platform for exchanging concepts,
conserved for future generations. It discourse about ongoing spatial getting to know each other and
is thus also important to mention and demographic challenges creating an umbrella of possible
that our focus lies on contemporary in a post-conflict region, still initiatives which one day might be
art and culture which is in a broad divided by entrenched ethnic- realized within the framework of
some of our ongoing, or even new,
projects. The exchange of ideas and
knowledge is one of our foremost
working principles. We believe
that society’s development can
only be assured if free individuals
are motivated to create a common
discourse about ongoing challenges
and the issues which affect us all.
Therefore, we try to emphasize
this kind of thinking, not only
throughout our Community
Meetings, but in all of our main
projects.

The Foundation has a strong and


clear conviction about Europe as
Superar Choir, sense the heritage of tomorrow. national attitudes. The new money one continent: what are the major
photo by Silvia
Lelli
We work intensively with some of phenomenon which hit many of challenges in that for Central and
the most interesting practitioners those countries and endangered Eastern Europe in the years to
and researchers from the cultural some of the most beautiful come?
sector, supporting various cultural European cultural sites is just one
and artistic initiatives and aspect of the story. We try to create The general idea and road to a
collectives which deal with current spheres of common understanding, peacefully united continent, the
curatorial practice and academic because we can see pretty much same one which produced some
research in those fields. the same things happening with of the most brutal atrocities
architectural heritage sites in in human history, is one of the
The dynamic relationship different parts of Europe. It is most fundamental civilisational
between architecture and society unfortunately a long process, visions. We strongly believe that
is also something the foundation mainly to do with education and all the people we work with,
is interested in, for instance the fostering a critical understanding all the NGO-activists, artists,
Balkan Reloaded project? in those citizens who are - or are researchers, curators, journalists,
school teachers and many others, our DNA. There are other savings Superar is one of the most
125
are the guardians of peace and banks in Europe who follow a successful projects of the
form society’s progressive voices. similar model, like the much older Foundation, one we are also most
Our mission is to support them Italian foundations, for example, proud of. If you ever had the chance
and their ideas in creating an Compagnia di San Paolo, or in to see the kids perform live you
atmosphere of mutual respect, Spain, like La Caixa Foundation. In would immediately know why.
understanding and tolerance. Germany you have many corporate Beside the emotional dimension
foundations, Robert Bosch which dozens, or hundreds, of
International solidarity, Foundation e.g., that own their kids can bring along on stage
connection and cooperation are companies and invest profits into while singing and dancing, we see
some of the core values of ERSTE society. And it would be great if this initiative as one of the most
Foundation: do you feel that this many more would get on board and genuine ways of bridging social
sentiment is sufficiently shared make similar commitments. differences at an early age, be
by the governmental structures they ethnic, religious, national,
in the region? You have spent tens of millions gender or any other. Unfortunately
of Euros on hundreds of projects all these differences start to
The region we are active in is part in the last 10 years. How do you become embedded at an early age.
of an ongoing, long term transition manage all that? Therefore it is part of our mission
process. A lot of work is still lying to create areas and spaces of
ahead for those young democracies, We have a team of nearly 30 unbiased equality, especially for
and the process requires patience employees which is a perfect fit the youngest ones. We do this not
and diligence on the part of for this kind of challenge. And we
everyone involved. However, many do differentiate between our in-
of the results are already visible house projects, which we develop
and tangible. Many countries and implement by ourselves,
are already part of the European and external projects, which are
family; others are strongly connected with strong project
committed accession candidates. partners to implement the main
What I can say for the Foundation work, with our coordination and
is that we are committed to provide support. Beside the huge numbers,
support, dismantle prejudices and there is still much to be done. Social
encourage cooperation as long as injustice is on the rise in Central
may be necessary. and South Eastern Europe and
democracy is at stake. 25 years
The Bank and the Foundation after the fall of communism we only through Superar but also other ‘Between
Prishtina and
are an interesting and successful still have many open questions school and youth projects. The
Skopje’-project
combination: are there other in the region which the official main reason for supporting Europa by artist Kai
European banks interested in state structures cannot solve by Nostra’s congress lies in our basic Vöckler

following suit? themselves. Non-governmental understanding that by supporting


support is therefore crucial in many Superar as part of the ceremony,
Well, we are not the first, nor the fields. Naturally, we cannot fill all we contribute to the promotion
only one. Like other savings banks the gaps, but we can make small, of a common European cultural
foundations, ERSTE Foundation decent contributions to change the heritage, whose real impact will
inherited its commitment to landscape for the better. become clear only after many
serve the common good from its years, if not decades. It is very hard
founder, in our case the ERSTE The children’s choir Superar, one to measure social impact; therefore
Österreichische Spar-Casse, a of your projects, will perform in only our very subjective feelings
savings banks association founded the Burgtheater in Vienna for of empathy and tolerance can
in 1819 to assist individuals who the 2014 EU Prize for Cultural navigate us through the darkening
were unable to provide for their Heritage / Europa Nostra Awards jungle of social injustice.
future by themselves. Therefore, ceremony. Can you tell us more
serving the common good is not about that initiative? http://www.erstestiftung.org
for us a choice but a basic part of
126
PARTNER

Chancellor Angela Merkel and the


President of the European Commission
José Manuel Barroso during the
presentation of the declaration of
the New Narrative for Europe in the
Akademie der Künste in Berlin on 1
March 2014

Europe is a State of Mind


On 1 March 2014, the declaration of the New Narrative for Europe was presented to
President Barroso and Chancellor Merkel at the Akademie der Künste in Berlin. Drafted
by Europe’s artists, intellectuals, scientists and cultural practitioners, this text stresses
that “Europe is a State of Mind.” It also calls for a new Renaissance in Europe based on
cosmopolitanism and on a strong collective commitment to our shared cultural values,
which include our cultural heritage.

Europa Nostra’s Secretary Heritage in Motion with President stronger over the years. What
General, Sneška Quaedvlieg- of the European Commission José made you give culture an even
Mihailović took an active part Manuel Barroso. greater priority than before?
in this process as a member of
the New Narrative for Europe Your conviction that our culture When I was a young student in
Culture Committee. In Berlin, she is a power for positive change Geneva, I had the great privilege
made an exclusive interview for in Europe has become even to meet and work with Denis de
Rougemont. He was not just a
127
great thinker and a great author -
the author of the beautiful book,
L’amour et l’Occident - but also
the man behind the creation of
the European Centre of Culture
in Geneva, a man who has always
emphasized the importance of the
cultural dimension of European
unification. He used to say that
“Europe is a culture, or else it is
nothing.” So I have always been
very sensitive to the fact that
culture is an essential part of
the foundations of the European
project.

That said, most of the work that


went into the process of European
integration has in fact been President of the European Commission José Manuel Barroso with Europa Nostra President Plácido
devoted to our economies and to Domingo and European Commissioner Androulla Vassiliou during the opening of the special exhibition on
the EU Prize for Cultural Heritage / Europa Nostra Awards in the Berlaymont building in Brussels.
our markets and comparatively
little has been devoted to our adoption in 2007 of the first-ever organisations so that they can
cultural dimension. This was not European Agenda for Culture work across borders and ensure
wrong at all. European integration in a Globalizing World. We set a that their works reach as many
would have failed if it had not framework for real cooperation people as possible.
started with the economies and across Member States and
the markets. But I think that the entities. Besides, the intrinsic You also became personally very
European Union has now reached value of culture was considered committed to the ‘New Narrative
a stage in its history where its key to fostering social cohesion, for Europe’ initiative. Why?
cultural dimension can no longer economic growth, job creation,
be ignored. Culture is not a nice- innovation and competitiveness. This initiative is very close to my President of
the European
to-have, but a need-to-have. And heart, because it is not enough Commission
Europe is more than a market. This cultural dimension is to say that we Europeans share José Manuel
Barroso with
also expressed in our external a common destiny! A sense
Europa Nostra
We must use our creative energies relations. Joint action plans of belonging to Europe, to a President
to the full. And this includes our have been signed with China, community of values, culture and Plácido
Domingo
cultural potential as much as our India, Mexico and Brazil, aimed
economic potential, which thus at supporting local cultural
far we have been using for much policies and structural capacities
longer, and much more intensively. conducive to socio-economic
We also need common ground, and development.
common reflection about the kind
of European Union we want for More recently, I strongly
the future, and we cannot succeed advocated a robust Creative
without a proper look at Europe’s Europe programme, the new
cultural dimension. European funding programme for
the cultural and creative sectors,
This is why, during my first which entered into force on 1st of
mandate as President of the January of this year.
European Commission, I decided
to open a new area of cooperation Our aim is to help artists, cultural
on cultural policy with the professionals and cultural
128 interests, is essential to forge that Merkel and yourself attended
PARTNER

“common destiny.” this event. Can you share with us


your impressions?
Today there is clearly a growing
feeling of estrangement among This declaration is really an act of
European citizens, and we even see faith in Europe. You all, the artists,
a growing disillusionment among cultural activists, intellectuals
pro-Europeans. There is a deficit who participate in this initiative,
of confidence in our own strengths you have precisely decided not to
and skills; a lack of confidence in turn your back on Europe but to
the future itself. engage, to be critical sometimes
but to be constructive. You don’t
This is a serious problem that we say that our Europe is perfect. But
have to resolutely address, because you say that Europe is our future.
Europe is us, each of us. We
cannot build a Europe that is only And I was happy to see in this
considered to be the responsibility declaration something I have been
of the European institutions. We saying very often: Europe is “a
have to make Europe a reality from moral and political responsibility,
the citizens’ point of view. which must be carried, not just by
institutions and politicians, but
Plantu in Berlin during the New Narrative for Europe Peace, democracy, freedom and by each and every European.”
meeting prosperity - and the European Because as I have just said
Union itself - should not be taken Europe is not them, that is the
During the presentation of the New Narrative for
for granted. They are not a given European institutions in Brussels,
Europe declaration on the ‘Mind and Body of Europe’,
Jean Plantu, the renowned editorial cartoonist at Le once-and-for-all. They have to be Strasbourg or Luxembourg, but
Monde, was invited for a ‘live cartooning’ performance. fought for. And this is a fight to Europe is us, each of us. And each
The projections of his cartoons introduced humour
in a very solemn event, especially when he showed be fought by each of us. A fight of us can make a difference in
his cartoon The Future of Europe is l’Art - see photo. that challenges each of us to think Europe and contribute to driving
President Barroso and Chancellor Merkel and all other
200 participants were visibly very amused... of the role we can play in helping positive change.
Europe.
Jean Plantu is the founding President of the association
‘Cartooning for Peace’, which promotes a better In your view, how relevant and
understanding and mutual respect between people of This means that the founding important are Europe’s heritage
different cultures and beliefs using editorial cartoons
as a universal language. Plantu is also a convinced raison d’être of the European and history for Europe’s future?
European: “I was delighted to contribute to the New project remains more valid than Is our heritage an asset or a
Narrative for Europe event in Berlin. Europe is indeed
a state of mind. It is also a peace project, a historic
ever. This is about peace and burden for Europe?
adventure based on the openness of our minds and freedom, democracy and human
respect for each other. We the cartoonists can help
rights. We should be true to this Europe’s rich history and amazing
Europeans to overcome conflicts through the relaxing
power of laughter.” vision of Europe. We have to stand reserves of creativity are some of
up clearly for these core values the strongest cards we hold when
cartooningforpeace.org
while we also have to continue it comes to building a prosperous
our narrative, to continue to European future. And as President
write the book of the present and of the European Commission
of the future, that is the book of I have always been strongly
Europe in the age of globalization. committed to bring Europe’s
And this new narrative is not cultural heritage to the fore and to
only about a new commitment protect and promote our cultural
to Europe but also about a new diversity.
enthusiasm for Europe.
The richness of European unity
On 1 March, the text of the stems precisely from the fact that
‘New Narrative for Europe’ was it is achieved through a fruitful
presented in Berlin. Chancellor blending of differences, contrasts,
Sneška 129
Quaedvlieg-
Mihailović,
Secretary
General of
Europa Nostra
and member
of the Cultural
Committee
of the New
Narrative
for Europe
as the Master
of Ceremony
during the event
of 1 March 2014
in Berlin

and even tensions. The wealth of Do you believe in Europe as a It is about universal values and
our culture lies in our openness to “soft (super)power”? inspirations. And indeed Europe’s
other societies, our openness to global influence also lies in
the world; and this is clearly one of I believe in Europe as a power our cultural openness to other
our main strengths. First, because with the different attributes of societies, our openness to the
our Union shows that it is possible power and yes, of course, this also world.
to come together in a Community includes what is called soft power,
of values and interests, with a that is, attractiveness of our Please share with us your own
common determination to act values, of our way of life, of our “European dream”...
together in a coherent manner, cultural diversity.
whilst recognizing and respecting This is the dream of a more
our differences. Second, because You know, I directly experienced political and a more cultural
in the age of globalization, such it myself. I grew up under a Europe.
a culture of openness is a very dictatorship. And when I think
valuable asset. It creates bonds of Europe, I think of it as an A more political Europe, because
that extend beyond borders. idea much more than a place. I believe we need a political
The European Union is about Union. Indeed the solidity of
When I had the great honour to democracy, it is about freedom, it our economic and monetary
represent the European Union is about justice. union will eventually depend
receiving the Nobel Peace Prize on its underlying political and
2012 in Oslo, I made a point about More recently these powerful institutional structure.
stressing that culture and science images of the people of Ukraine
are at the core of our European waiving the European flag give us And a more cultural Europe,
project, precisely as a way of going a very vivid and telling illustration because I believe that politics is
beyond borders. Because you of Europe’s soft power. They tell instrumental – it allows us to turn
cannot really commit to this idea us more about the strength and the dream of European unity in a
of culture without accepting the influence of Europe’s soft power political reality - and culture, art,
idea that you have to go beyond than a long speech could. knowledge are existential. Culture
borders. Culture offers us a is about fulfilling the individual
unique insight into today’s diverse Just let me add that culture is a dreams of each one of us; it is for
societies and shows us what can very precious tool of diplomacy, each one of us the opportunity to
be achieved when people meet and because it is about connecting realize our own potential.
inspire each other. with people all over the world.
130

Saving the Jewel of


SPECIAL MENTION

the Taferlberg

Maria Taferl Church

There is a new kind of European but there are also exceptional


Erwin
Hameseder banker that has been slowly individuals who feel it is their
emerging over the past decades: responsibility to step up to the
bankers who are committed plate and be counted; to go beyond
to society, who view banks as the call of duty as a banker and
organisations that should make show a professional and personal
life better, should protect art dedication to the world around
and culture and help the socially them.
vulnerable. A rare breed still,
you may say, but their numbers Erwin Hameseder (b.1956)
are growing. Visionaries who see received a Special Mention in the
that a society that is inclusive category Dedicated Service in
and interacts on every level is a the European Union Prize for
society that will flourish; socially, Cultural Heritage / Europa Nostra
culturally and economically. Awards 2014 for his personal
Elsewhere in this magazine you commitment, determination
will encounter the exemplary and perseverance in the field of
activities of the ERSTE Stiftung cultural heritage preservation.
131
Basilica treasure
room before and
after restoration

He is an active supporter of the


monasteries Stift Zwettl, Stift
Herzogenburg, Stift Altenburg and
the Basilica Mariazell to name but
a few. He served as President of
the Association of the Benedictine
Monastery Göttweig, was on the
advisory board for the P. George
Sporschill non-profit organisation
and even the Sri Lanka tsunami
relief. But his finest moment to
date is probably the restoration of
the Maria Taferl Church above the
Danube river.

Built on an ancient Celtic site,


legend says that the statue of the
Pietà at the Maria Taferl shrine was
a gift from Alexander Schinagel,
a forester, who had a miraculous as the 850 inhabitants of the The preservation and restoration Rose garden
recovery from a serious illness. It village of Maria Taferl had to not only revived the monument, before and after
restoration
has been an important pilgrimage somehow come up with one third it also created jobs and revitalised
site ever since and the church is a of the costs. Erwin Hameseder the whole region. Cultural heritage
symbol of Austria’s history with became chairman of the association became the motor for the local
Catholicism. The church is built to raise awareness and to raise the economy, for tourism and for the
in Baroque style with gold leaf funds. In seven years he managed religious life of the area.
ornaments and a beautiful frescoed to collect 1.5 million Euro through
ceiling. The impressive monument concerts, golf tournaments, classic Erwin Hameseder is already an
gave the local inhabitants hope car tours, pilgrimages and many honorary citizen of Maria Taferl
and courage after the Plague, the other events, not just enough for and a highly respected Austrian
Turkish Wars, and the Thirty the restoration but also for the rose banker and businessman. The
Years’ War. garden, the cloister garden and importance of his work has
the parish offices. The jewel of the now also been recognised at the
The necessary restoration of the Taferlberg is now back to its former European level.
church was extremely challenging glory and ready for the future.
132
PARTNER

Commissioner Vassiliou during the


opening of the exhibition of the EU
Prize for Cultural Heritage
with Europa Nostra President
Plácido Domingo and President
of the European Commission José
Manuel Barroso

‘Budget for Creative


Europe increased by 9%’
An interview with Androulla Vassiliou, Commissioner for
Education, Culture, Multilingualism and Youth
133

Commissioner
in Vienna. It will also be her last as models of governance that foster Vassiliou,
Commissioner as there will soon community participation. Europa Nostra
President
be a new European Commission. Plácido
Like most Europeans, Vassiliou These ideas are very much in line Domingo
has passionate views on education, with what was discussed at the and grand
prix winner
culture, languages, youth and Heritage First!’ conference in Paraschiva
sport. Luckily she found time to March. Kovacs, during
the 2012
sit down for an exclusive interview ceremony at
with Heritage in Motion and How can we promote together a the Jerónimos
Monastery in
discuss her new policies in the ‘New Narrative for Europe’ which
Lisbon
field of cultural heritage as part of puts a much stronger emphasis on
the Commission’s ‘Europe 2020’ culture and cultural heritage as a
strategy for a competitive, green key resource for Europe?
and sustainable economy.
A successful ‘New Narrative for
‘Heritage First!’ was the title of an Europe’ will be one created by
important conference organised by European citizens themselves. The
the Hellenic Presidency of the EU. ‘Mind and Body of Europe’ text
Will this also be the message of the proposed by the New Narrative’s
European Commission? Cultural Committee, in which
Europa Nostra plays an active
Commissioner for Education, In the next few weeks, I intend to role, provides us with a starting
Culture, Multilingualism and launch a new Commission strategy point which will hopefully inspire
Youth Androulla Vassiliou has on cultural heritage. My aim is to Europeans of all ages.
been a friend of Europa Nostra propose a blueprint for promoting
for many years and her personal the intrinsic and societal value Culture and cultural heritage are
commitment to Europe’s cultural of cultural heritage and for central to any European narrative,
heritage is clear. For many years maximizing its contribution to as they are an important part
now she has presented, together sustainable economic growth and of our way of life. Our cultural
with Europa Nostra’s President job creation. We will emphasise heritage, in particular, is our
Plácido Domingo, the EU Prize for the need to strengthen cooperation collective memory and, in that
Cultural Heritage / Europa Nostra among Member States, local sense, it is also a key resource
Awards. This year the ceremony authorities, civil society and all with tremendous potential for
will take place in the Burgtheater stakeholders to develop new encouraging integration.
134 In defining the New Narrative for programme has a €1.46 billion Horizon 2020 will support
PARTNER

Europe, the process of discussion budget to support the cultural research projects related to
is as important as the outcome. and creative sectors over the next cultural heritage, financed
It is through the process of seven years, which represents a primarily under the ‘societal
engagement and dialogue that 9% increase compared with the challenges’ priority. The
citizens will be more directly previous Culture and MEDIA Erasmus+ ‘Knowledge Alliances’
involved in the European project programmes combined. and ‘Sector Skills Alliances’,
and able to develop their own fostering closer links between
understanding of what it means to A substantial portion of this higher and vocational education
be part of the European Union. funding will support heritage, and enterprise, can help design
by financing trans-national curricula that meet the new needs
I am convinced that we must cooperation projects involving of the heritage sector.
continue to highlight culture and cultural organisations in different
cultural heritage in all areas of countries. It will also finance Can you share with us your
policy-making, raising awareness European networks dedicated to best heritage memory as EU
of the sectors’ potential for cultural heritage. Commissioner: which awarded
sustainable and inclusive growth, project made a lasting impression
quality jobs and social cohesion. These two funding streams on you? Which ceremony of the
will help to provide heritage awards?
professionals with up-graded
skills, competences and It is impossible to single out a
know-how in areas such as single project because there are
digital technologies, audience so many fantastic ones to choose
development and new business from! In the same way, each of
and management models. Creative the award ceremonies which I
Europe will also encourage cross- attended was impressive and
border mobility and international memorable in its own way.
careers.
If I were forced to pick one
In addition, there will be other moment that made a lasting
opportunities for EU funding for impression, however, it would
Commissioner Creative Europe, the EU’s new cultural heritage, in particular be when the Grand Prix for
Vassiliou during
her speech at
programme for the cultural and through the Regional Funds, dedicated service was awarded
the ceremony in creative sectors, will continue to but also other EU schemes to Paraschiva Kovacs, a retired
Athens in 2013 support cultural heritage projects. including the programme for the schoolteacher from the Hungarian-
How will this support specifically Competitiveness of Enterprises speaking community of Harghita
help the sector? In what other ways and Small and Medium-sized in Romania, during the 2012
will the EU support heritage in the Enterprises (COSME), Horizon ceremony at the Jerónimos
next seven years? 2020 and Erasmus+. Monastery in Lisbon. Mrs Kovacs
dedicated over 40 years of her
Under the former Culture The European Regional life to keeping an inventory of
programme, more than 130 Development Fund specifically artefacts from her village and
cooperation projects in the area highlights the protection, was responsible for preserving a
of cultural heritage received promotion and development collection of 100-year old carved
funding totalling €38 million. This of cultural heritage among its wooden ‘Szekler’ gates.
support will continue and expand priorities under the protection
under our new Creative Europe of the environment and resource She came up to the podium in
programme. efficiency objective. COSME magnificent traditional dress and
will provide indirect support to it was clear how much the award
I am very proud of the cultural heritage by promoting the meant to her as she took the
Creative Europe programme, diversification of tourism and the microphone and spoke rapidly in
which supports both culture development of European cultural her native tongue. It didn’t matter
and audiovisual policy. The routes. that few of us could understand
what she was saying. Her are unfortunately reducing their you know, I am passionate about
135
enthusiasm was infectious. It was public expenditure on culture. literacy and I hope I can do more
a memorable and moving moment. This increase was something we in this field too: it is unacceptable
fought hard for. We may not have that one in five people in Europe
What importance do you attach got as much as we hoped, but I are illiterate or lack basic reading
to the work of civil society was very happy that the European and writing skills.
organisations like Europa Nostra? Parliament and the Council backed
Any special recommendations for our arguments. The new budget What are you most looking forward
their future EU related strategy and means we will not only be able to about nót being a Commissioner?
action? maintain our previous levels of
grant support for the cultural and I will enjoy having more time for
Europa Nostra and other civil audiovisual sectors, but also to myself and my family. I am also
society organisations have a launch a new financial guarantee looking forward to visiting many
crucial role to play as advocates facility, enabling small cultural different places with a sense of
for European heritage. My staff and creative businesses to access ease rather than rushing from one
in the European Commission’s up to €750 million in bank loans. meeting to another!
Directorate General for Education
and Culture has worked side-by- In which area or on which subject
side with Europa Nostra for many do you wish you could have done
years now. I can only encourage more?
you to continue your excellent
work and to reach out to even more I think we have achieved a great
decision makers at European, deal at the European level over
national, regional and local the past few years, despite a very
levels. This will be particularly challenging economic situation.
important in the coming year as I would have certainly liked to
the European Parliament will have have actually visited more of the
a new look after the elections and cultural heritage sites which we
there will also be a new European have honoured at the awards – and
Commission soon. also to have found the time to see
more of the wonderful European
At local level, you are in films we have funded through the
contact with cultural heritage MEDIA programme.
professionals and with the
millions of volunteers who care Will you stay involved in some of
for European heritage, restore it, the areas of your large portfolio
preserve it, love it, make it part of also after the end of your mandate
their lives and of their community. as Commissioner? And how?
They need to know that we value
their contribution very highly, and I plan to remain active in the
that we listen to them. cultural sector, by supporting and
strengthening the work of Europa
What is your proudest achievement Nostra in general and in my home
(so far) during your mandate as country, Cyprus, in particular.
Commissioner who is responsible I also hope that my experience
for Culture? and expertise can be used in the
area of education, especially in
I think we did an amazing job to furthering the cause of reform
secure a 9% increase in the budget and modernisation. This is crucial
for Creative Europe, despite the if we are to ensure our young The Berlaymont
fact that the overall European people have the skills needed to Building of
the European
Union budget was cut and at a find employment and secure the Commission in
time when many Member States long-term prosperity of Europe. As Brussels
136
PARTNER

The new
brochure of the
organisation

A bright future for the past

Austrian Castle Association


Alexander, count Kottulinsky is a
137
Alexander
busy man. The 40-something easy- Kottulinsky, the
going President of the association President of the
Ostereichische
talks quickly and enthusiastically Burgenverein,
about his mission and his passion. is always at
work for his
From his bright offices he is
organisation and
continuously on the phone, on his Europa Nostra,
tablet or computer to represent the of which he is a
Council member.
members of the Österreichischer
Burgenverein: Verein zur Erhaltung
historischer Bauten, or Austrian
Castle Association in English. The
member organization of Europa
Nostra has been through many
changes over the last few years. In
2012, Kottulinsky took over from
Bernard von Liphart, who had led
the organization effectively for
close to 30 years. The association
was formed almost 60 years ago
by private castle owners and their
friends to protect and preserve
the castles, fortresses and historic
houses of Austria.

Kottulinsky: “With over 40,000


heritage sites in Austria and with
1,200 private castle owners the
potential for the organisation is
very large. We are opening the
doors and windows to the outside
world and re-connect even more
than in the past to our European
partners like the European
Historic Houses Association and
Europa Nostra. We also have a new
board which perfectly fits with our
new approach. We are proud to be
a leading organisation for the 2014
Europa Nostra congress in Austria
and the awards ceremony of the
EU Prize for Cultural Heritage
/ Europa Nostra Awards in the
Burgtheater.”

“At this moment we represent


200 owners of heritage and about
300 friends. The numbers are
growing - we are working very
hard on that. We are continuing
with our heritage tours and our
practical seminars and we have
created a new modern look for
138
PARTNER

our magazine. We are actively


looking at our colleagues in other
countries and liaise with them
to see how they tackle certain
challenges. We also focus on the
political side of our mandate with
attention to tax and legal matters.
We want zero VAT on maintenance
for instance. There are many
things that need our attention. I
see the role of our association as an
intermediary, between the owners
and the national government and
the regional departments that
are responsible for monuments
and sites. We want to be an active
platform, a spokesperson, an
adviser on heritage. Let me give
you an example. A ruin on your
property can be a registered in a sense, the ‘family silver’ of of our European colleagues.
monument, but what happens if Austria and as such should be We also need to bring in young
a wall topples, if consolidation is well preserved and protected. castle owners, of which there are
necessary to preserve it? How can ‘When you do not know where you many, and show them what the
we lobby for improved rules and come from, you do not know where association is doing for them, the
regulations to help the owners you’re going,’ Otto von Habsburg, political steps we are taking. We
protect privately owned heritage the last Crown Prince of Austria- are ambitious and we have set
sites? We do not just want to Hungary, used to say. And if I may a goal to attract new members.
issue a yellow card when the paraphrase; we at the Austrian We want at least 600 owners and
government makes a wrong move, Castle Association know where we 3,000 friends.”
we want to work in dialogue, to come from and we know where we
be at the right place and the right want to go,” Kottulinsky explains Alexander, count Kottulinsky and
time to change things for the with an easy smile. his young and energetic board
better. The privately owned castles are ready to face the challenges
and historic houses in Austria are “One of the things we decided to do and grab the opportunities. The
an essential part of our country’s is to take the organisation on the privately owned heritage of
attractiveness. They are a central road. To go into the countryside, Austria is in capable hands with
element for our tourist trade. Our to re-introduce ourselves, to talk this active partner of Europa
castles, fortresses and country to the people involved, to learn Nostra. The future of Austria’s
houses are the visual and historical about their concerns, to discuss past looks bright.
figureheads for our counties, our new ideas and initiatives, to share
towns and our villages. They are our knowledge and the knowledge www.burgenverein.at
The Philharmonics regard the opportunity to
perform at the ceremony for the EU Prize for
Cultural Heritage / Europa Nostra Awards
as a great honour.
Saving and supporting the cultural heritage
of our wonderful continent should be one of
our deepest concerns. If everyone endeavors
to put their own individual effort into this
great idea,
all those little drops of good will and
enthusiasm will create an ocean of positive
energy, pointing to a successful and peaceful
future.

thephilharmonics.com

Benvenuto!
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140

‘Europe needs smart,


PARTNER

green and inclusive


growth’
An interview with Commissioner Johannes Hahn

Commissioner Johannes Hahn


(b.1957) has been responsible for
Regional and Urban Policy in the
European Commission since 2010.
The former Austrian Minister is
passionate about creating new jobs
and boosting the internal market
through effective regional policies.
In his opinion Europe faces big
economic challenges and has to renewable energies and energy
compete with new powers like efficiency, etc.: areas that will
China, India and Brazil. Regional contribute to smart, green and
policy is the key instrument to inclusive growth.
achieve a smart, inclusive and
green growth, as he describes it. Investments into cultural and
During this exclusive interview creative industries, due to their
for Heritage in Motion he points strong growth potential, have a
to the importance of investments place in the future programmes, in
in cultural and creative industries particular if they are linked to new
and the role cultural heritage plays technologies and innovation: using
in regional development policies. ICT to provide better access to
cultural experiences, for instance
Do you see a strong role for cultural through mobile apps, improving
heritage as a key resource for the user experience through
Europe’s new smart, sustainable service innovation, enhancing the
and inclusive ‘Europe 2020 entrepreneurial dynamics around
Strategy’ framework? cultural attraction points.

The reformed Cohesion Policy Being at the crossroads between


for 2014-2020 is indeed a more arts, business and technology,
focussed and results-based the cultural and creative sectors
investment framework that are also in a strategic position
channels funding to thematic to trigger positive economic
objectives that are closely linked spillover and to act as enablers for
to Europe 2020’s targets, such as innovation in other industries,
innovation, entrepreneurship and creating growth and high-skilled
Commissioner
SME (Small and Medium-sized jobs.
Hahn in Pompeii Enterprises) competitiveness,
The new EU budget for 2014-2020
141
will make about 325 billion Euro
available for sustainable regional
or local development. In the past,
a relatively small part was used to
finance heritage related projects.
Can we expect more in the coming
budgetary period?

For 2007-2013, the Member


States have allocated € 6 billion
for the heading ‘Culture,’ but the
cultural industry is supported
through many more Cohesion
Policy investments, for example
in the areas of tourism, urban
regeneration, RTD (Research and
Technological Development),
Commissioner
SMEs (Small and Medium-sized just to Campania or Italy alone, of EU structural funds to help Hahn meets
Enterprises), etc. The Regulations but to Europe and to the rest of save Europe’s sites selected on our European
students in
for 2014-2020 equally offer many the world. Beyond the intrinsic annual list of endangered heritage? the European
possibilities to invest in cultural cultural value of the site, the Parliament
and creative industries as well as economic benefits of conserving Future Cohesion Policy
the protection, promotion and Pompeii for future generations investment priorities must focus
development of cultural heritage. could be enormous. Driven by on delivering Europe 2020 growth
high quality tourism and new and goals and concentrate on areas
It is up to the Member States, in improved services we can create where EU action has an added
discussion with our services, to new jobs and protect existing ones. value. Funding must not be spread
decide where they want to focus too thinly, and it must be effective
their investments. Preserving This wider aspect is of vital to yield results. Therefore,
cultural heritage is indeed importance. When we invest in where cultural investments
important but such investments preserving cultural heritage, are embedded in a holistic and
must be part of an integrated we must always bear in mind integrated approach to the
approach that is also supported the ‘spillover effect’ to the local economic development of an area
by other resources and efforts. area – the benefits to be reaped or a region, EU investments can
Cultural investments should be by SMEs, the need for accessible, contribute to growth in that sector.
embedded in viable and integrated well-connected transport links,
strategies that tackle all important the demand on local services etc. As I mentioned before, Cohesion
aspects of developing indigenous Protecting cultural heritage is Policy will also continue to support
potential, including the potential indeed close to our hearts, but we cultural heritage not only through
for creating jobs and growth in the are not investing in culture for direct funding, but through
region. culture alone: we must consider investment in a wider sense, for
it in the context of the economic example, in urban regeneration,
You have announced an increased growth of a region. sustainable urban development
support for the World Heritage Site and support to SMEs. Europe’s
of Pompeii, following the reports of Many more heritage sites in Europe cities are hotbeds of culture and we
new damage to Pompeii’s famous are in danger due to various types foresee over 50% of the European
archaeological structures caused by of threats. Last year, Europa Nostra Regional Development Fund
heavy rainfall. What role can the has launched a new programme (ERDF) being invested in urban
EU play? The 7 Most Endangered, in areas from 2014-2020, improving
partnership with the European the urban economy, the quality
Indeed, the site of Pompeii is of Investment Bank Institute. Could of life of citizens and promoting a
huge cultural importance not we imagine a stronger involvement more inclusive society.
142
PARTNER

Commissioner
Johannes Hahn Caring for our heritage can help funded through ERDF (European Europe’s regions and cities to fully
to improve the standard and Regional Development Fund). deploy the potential of cultural
quality of our life and our living heritage and culture as a strategic
environment, both in cities and But only cultural Investments resource for developing a society
in the countryside. Cultural with a sustainable economic based on ethical, aesthetic and
heritage is also a defining aspect of impact can be prioritised for ecological values. What can be
regional distinctiveness, regional ERDF, particularly in light of its done by the EU to stimulate such
products and regional tourism. ‘jobs and growth objective’. Our a culture-orientated approach
Do you think that all those benefits Funds cannot replace national to development, also in line with
have been sufficiently taken into budgets in terms of maintenance the principles of the Hanghzou
account within EU policies and of cultural heritage but must Declaration (May 2013)?
instruments? supplement and reinforce Member
State investments. ERDF also We share the view of the
We are fully aware of the fact that promotes regions’ comparative Hanghzou Declaration that
culture can stimulate urban and advantage by requiring them to we should ‘harness the past to
regional development and of the put forward smart specialisation create the future’ but we also
close links of culture and tourism. strategies. For example, design learn from our experience in
It has been demonstrated that plays a key role as an intangible terms of the efficiency and
the ‘European Capital of Culture asset for innovative companies. effectiveness of investments.
label’ for example brings many 21% of European companies use While ‘a vibrant cultural life may
benefits to cities and regions and design as a strategic means to be key to achieving a sustainable
can create a significant social and encourage innovation and the city’, only a holistic approach to
economic legacy, particularly EU’s design sector has an annual development, which embraces the
when it is embedded into a long- turnover of €36 billion. transition towards a knowledge
term culture- and creativity-led society, building on social,
development strategy. We also Recently in Athens, civil society organisational and technical
believe that cultural initiatives can organisations active in the field of innovation and entrepreneurial
contribute to social inclusion and cultural heritage, such as Europa dynamics, can make it a ‘smart’
poverty reduction, particularly in Nostra, sent a strong message one.
urban areas and notably through to the 6th European Summit
innovative projects, such as those of Regions and Cities urging
open happiness

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We are proud to support Europe’s cultural heritage and


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144
Historic
HERITAGE IN DANGER

neighbourhoods
of Dolcho
and Apozari,
Kastoria,
GREECE
Photo: Courtesy
of Elliniki Etairia
- Society for the
Environment and
Cultural Heritage
and Municipality
of Kastoria

‘The 7 Most
Endangered’ 2014
On 6 March 2014, Europa Nostra and the European Investment
Bank Institute announced the 11 monuments and sites
shortlisted for ‘The 7 Most Endangered’ 2014.
Among the threatened landmarks
Monastery of 145
Bardzrakash St.
selected by an international Gregory, Dsegh,
ARMENIA
panel of experts are a Roman
Photo: Courtesy
archaeological site in the Former of Ministry of
Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, Culture of the
Republic of
a medieval monastery in Armenia, Armenia
two historic neighbourhoods in
Paço de Vilar
Kastoria in Greece, an 18th century de Perdizes in
citadel in Italy, 19th century stage Montalegre,
machinery in Belgium, and a PORTUGAL
Photo: Courtesy
20th century housing complex in of Associação
Russia. Some are in danger due Portuguesa das
Casas Antigas
to lack of resources or expertise,
others due to neglect or inadequate
planning. The final list of 7 sites
will be made public on 5 May 2014
during the European Heritage
Congress in Vienna.

“These monuments and sites were


selected taking into account not
only their remarkable heritage
and cultural values but also
the serious danger that they
are facing. The engagement of
the local communities and the
commitment of various public or
private bodies to saving them were Stage Machinery
also considered vital. Another of the Bourla
Theater,
important criterion was the Antwerp,
potential of these sites to stimulate BELGIUM
Photo: Courtesy
socio-economic development,”
of PERSPECTIV
stated Piet Jaspaert, Chairman of – Association
‘The 7 Most Endangered’ advisory of Historic
Theatres in
panel. Europe

Thracian
“Europa Nostra welcomes the
Sanctuary
increasing recognition by EU in Mishkova
Institutions, including the niva area,
BULGARIA
European Investment Bank Photo: Courtesy
(EIB), that cultural heritage is of Historical
Museum
both a strategic resource and a
Alexander Fol in
driving force for a sustainable Malko Tarnovo
Europe. We therefore very much
Colour Row
count on the commitment of Settlement in
those Institutions to assist local, Chernyakhovsk,
RUSSIA
regional and national authorities Photo: Courtesy
throughout Europe in their efforts of International
to save and enhance our heritage,” Centre of the
Roerichs
stressed Denis de Kergorlay,
Executive President of Europa
Nostra. “In 2013, in its pilot
year, ‘The 7 Most Endangered’
146 Citadel of
Alessandria,
HERITAGE IN DANGER

ITALY
Photos: Folco
Quilici

Carillons of the Mafra National Palace, PORTUGAL


Photo: Courtesy of Centro Nacional de Cultura

Wooden Churches in Southern Transylvania and


Northern Oltenia, ROMANIA
Photo: Courtesy of Pro Patrimonio Foundation

programme successfully raised ‘The 7 Most Endangered’


awareness about the most programme was launched in
threatened monuments and sites January 2013 by Europa Nostra
in Europe and mobilised multiple with the European Investment
stakeholders in several countries, Bank Institute as founding
from Portugal to Turkey. The partner and the Council of Europe
potential of this programme is Development Bank as associated
enormous and we have made great partner. It was inspired by a
progress,” he added. successful similar project run
by the US National Trust for
Roman Archaeological Site of Golemo Gradište, Konjuh, “The successful restoration and Historic Preservation. ‘The 7
Former Yugoslav Republic of MACEDONIA
Photo: Courtesy of Archaeological Museum of Macedonia
promotion of cultural heritage Most Endangered’ is not a funding
can have significant social and programme. Its aim is to serve as a
economic benefits at the local, catalyst for action and to promote
regional and even national levels, ‘the power of example’.
in terms of increasing tourism,
creating jobs and improving To find out more go to www.
investment opportunities. To this europanostra.org/7-most-
end, the European Investment endangered for updates on the 2013
Bank Institute is backing ‘The 7 missions and the 2014 short list.
Most Endangered’ programme. On the Google Cultural Institute
Experts from the Bank will website a special exhibition was
provide analysis and advice and created in partnership
will help formulate a feasible with Google.
action plan for each of the seven
Synagogue in Subotica, SERBIA sites,” explained Rémy Jacob,
Photo: Courtesy of Europa Nostra Serbia
Dean of the EIB Institute.
EU Commissioner
Androulla Vassiliou
and Europa Nostra
President Plácido
Domingo

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CALL FOR ENTRIES*
EUROPEAN UNION PRIZE FOR CULTURAL HERITAGE/

EUROPA NOSTRA AWARDS 2015

The European Union Prize for Cultural Outstanding heritage achievements will
Heritage was launched in 2002 by be awarded in the following categories:
the European Commission as part of
the implementation of the Culture 1. Conservation
Programme. Europa Nostra, the Voice of 2. Research and Digitalisation
Cultural Heritage in Europe, was selected 3. Dedicated Service by Individuals or
to run this Awards Scheme on the Organisations
basis of its long experience in publicly 4. Education, Training and Awareness-
recognising individual or joint excellence Raising
in the field of Cultural Heritage at a
European level. Criteria for the assessment of entries
include excellence in the work executed
The European Union Prize for Cultural and preliminary research conducted,
Heritage / Europa Nostra Awards is as well as respect for artistic, cultural
granted annually to identify and promote and social value, setting, authenticity
best practices in the conservation of and integrity. Entries can be on a
tangible cultural heritage, to stimulate scale ranging from small to large,
the trans-frontier exchanges of local to international, and should
knowledge and experience throughout display a standard of work considered
Europe, to enhance public awareness outstanding in a European context.
and appreciation of Europe’s cultural
heritage, and to encourage further The European Union Prize for Cultural
exemplary initiatives through the Power Heritage / Europa Nostra Awards
CLOSING DATE : 15 OCTOBER 2014
The ceremony will take place on 11 June 2015 at the Town
of Example. consists of two award levels. Up to Hall of Oslo, Norway
seven entries will be awarded a Grand For further information:
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will receive an Award. Download an entry form: www.europanostra.org
* DISCLAIMER: Subject to the positive decision by the European Commission after
the completion of the current selection process for the partner organisation responsible
for the running of the EU Prize for Cultural Heritage in the next 7 years period 2015-2021.

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EUROPEAN CULTURAL HERITAGE REVIEW
SUMMER 2014

EUROPA NOSTRA represents a rapidly growing citizens’ movement for the


safeguarding of Europe’s cultural and natural heritage. Our pan-European
network is composed of 250 member organisations (heritage associations
and foundations with a combined membership of more than 5 million people),
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cultural landscapes.

We are the Voice of Cultural Heritage in Europe.

THE REAL SOUND OF MUSIC AND MONUMENTS MEN


ALONG THE SEMMERING RAILWAY AND THE DANUBE RIVER
FREUD, HUNDERTWASSER AND KLIMT
SWEET HERITAGE AND STRONG COFFEE
TALKING HERITAGE WITH EU LEADERS JOSÉ MANUEL BARROSO,
ANDROULLA VASSILIOU AND JOHANNES HAHN...

AUSTRIA SPECIAL

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