DIY Aquarium Handbook

The ultimate DIY handbook:
For the DIY aquarist

Copyright © 2013 by Joey Mullen
All rights reserved
All rights reserved. This book or any portion thereof may not be
reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the expressed
written permission of the publisher except for the use of brief quotations in
a book review or scholarly journal.
*Licensed for single use only*

Reselling or distributing in any way is strictly prohibited.
First issue: Oct. 15 2013

ISBN 978-0-9937437-0-2
Thekingofdiy.com
2
The ultimate DIY handbook:
For the DIY aquarist
Joey Mullen
The king of DIY

2013
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4
Dedication
Tanya;
Without your unconditional support and patience, I would

have never achieved my dream.
5
Warning:
Due to the nature of the content in this book, there are some risks involved
for the reader.
This includes, but is not limited to; the use of power tools and other
dangerous items. There are risks involved with anything you build on your
own.
In no event shall the author be liable to any party for any loss or damage,
including but not limited to lost revenues or profits or any special, indirect,
incidental or consequential damages (howsoever arising, including
negligent).
6
Index
Introduction Page 11
Chapter 1 - How to build aquariums

Chapter 1 –overview Page 13
Chapter 1, part 1 - Choosing the tank size. Page 14
Chapter 1, part 2 – Aquarium materials Page 17
Chapter 1, part 3a- Glass aquarium Page 25
Chapter 1, part 3b- Additional method Page 44
Chapter 1, part 4- Acrylic Aquarium Page 51
Chapter 1, part 5- Plywood Aquarium Page 72
Chapter 1, part 6- Get the most Page 89
Chapter 2 - Aquarium stands and canopies Page 92

Chapter 2, part 1: Aquarium stands Page 93
Chapter 2, part 2: Stand strength Page 108
Chapter 2, part 3: Aquarium canopy Page 110
Chapter 3 – Aquarium repair Page 118

Chapter 3, part 1 – Scratch repair and prevention Page 119
Chapter 3, part 2- Preventing and resealing leaks Page 135
Chapter 3, part 3- Preventing and repairing cracks Page 145
Chapter 3, part 4- Rebuilding aquariums Page 152
Chapter 4 - Bracing your floor Page 158
Chapter 5 - Filtration
Chapter 5 – Overview Page 163
Chapter 5, part 1: Know your bacteria Page 166
Chapter 5, part 2: Types of filtration and media Page 170
Chapter 5, part 3: How much is really needed? Page 173
Chapter 5, part 4: Flow rates and sizing Page 175
Chapter 5, part 5: Building filters Page 177
Submerged filters: Page 178
Internal power filters Page 179
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Full style Page 181
Water polisher Page 185
Water skimmer Page 186
Internal air driven filters Page 189
Air driven power filter Page 190
Air powered sponge filter Page 194
Canister filter Page 199
Internal canister filter Page 207
Below tank sump filter Page 215
Above tank sump filter Page 218
Internal Mat filter Page 227
Media reactor Page 239
Emerged filters: Page 252
Trickle tower Page 252
Easy Aquaponics Page 257
The bucket filter Page 262
Fluidized filters: Page 272

Internal fluidized bed Page 275
Sump fluidized bed Page 279
Barrel fluidized bed Page 284
Chapter 6 – plumbing Page 290

Chapter 6- Part 1 Understanding overflows Page 290
Chapter 6- Part 2 HOB overflows Page 293
Chapter 6- Part 3 Through the tank overflow Page 308
Chapter 6- Part 4 Bulkheads Page 309
Chapter 6- Part 5 Drilling aquariums Page 312
Chapter 6- Part 6 Installing a bulkhead Page 318
Chapter 6- Part 7 Overflow standpipes and weirs Page 320
Chapter 7 –Lighting Page 327

Strong LED lighting Page 327
Cheap LED lighting Page 340
Cheap Fluorescent lighting Page 352
Chapter 8 – Equipment Page 354

Gravel vacuum Page 354
Water changer Page 359
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Co2 system Page 363
Understanding why plants need Co2 Page 363
Understanding how Co2 reacts in water Page 364
How to create Co2 Page 365
Building the reactor Page 366
Algae scrubber Page 371
Aquarium chiller Page 381
Dosing system Page 391
Aquarium alarm system Page 400
Under gravel jets Page 414
Aquarium lid/cover Page 422
Drip system/automatic water changes Page 426
Auto top off Page 431
Heater guard and distributer Page 446
Protein skimmer Page 459
Chapter 9 – Decorations Page 477

3D backgrounds and caves Page 477
Plants Page 498
Substrate Page 504
Aquarium trim Page 508
Chapter 10 – Food Page 518

Understanding ingredients and their values Page 519
Color enhancers Page 525
How to make DIY food Page 530
Chapter 11 – Power outages & failed equipment Page 536

How to survive a power outage Page 537
Emergency equipment Page 539
Conclusion Page 550
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Introduction
First and foremost: DIY stands for “Do It Yourself”.
Let’s discuss what DIY means though. You purchased

this book for one of a few reasons:
1. You want to save money on an already expensive

hobby.
2. You want the full control, creativity, flexibility and
customizability that DIY offers.
3. You need to build something unique to your situation
that you simply can’t buy.
4. You simply enjoy building things, with the satisfaction
of the end result being something you created.
So let’s get one thing straight before we move on: “DIY”

does NOT mean you are cheap!! Heck, maybe it does, and
DIY does save you money. In my opinion however, this is not
the definition of DIY.
The contents of this book will not only serve as a guide to how
to build various projects, but also the even more valuable
information on how and why they work. You will also find
inspiration within the contents of the book as well as be
introduced to new concepts and ideas that you may not have
seen before.
I firmly believe in keeping things simple in this hobby.
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Don’t over think or over complicate what is typically a simple
process. Be OPEN to learn.
Simplicity And Consistency Is Key. (S.A.C.I.K)
As you read this book, I want you to feel comfortable

with the information.
So know this; this book literally took years to gain the

knowledge on how to do these projects. I didn’t just build
these once or twice and then claim to be able to teach it.
These have been done countless times by me. This book

not only took a ton of time to gain the knowledge to write, but
also an incredible amount of experience.
So while you flip through the pages and slowly learn what
I am about to teach you, I need you to know one thing about
my intentions here: My goal for you is to teach you
everything I know in the matter of a couple of hours.
The years it took for me to be able to do this and the

costly mistakes I made along the way will all be avoided by
you in this one book. I will save you hundreds, maybe even
thousands of dollars by learning how to do it right the first
time.
With that said, this book just paid for itself already.
Joey Mullen
The King of DIY
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CHAPTER 1
How to build an aquarium
Building an aquarium is easily the most popular and

sought after aquarium project. For good reason: The savings
are potentially huge and the ability to customize the exact
dimensions and overall look of the aquarium is completely up
to you. In this chapter we will cover the most popular and
proven methods of not only how to build an aquarium, but
how to build one out of various materials. Including; glass,
acrylic and plywood.
Before attempting any aquarium build, make SURE you

take proper safety precautions. Eye protection is always
needed. Protective foot wear is also a good idea. Safety gloves
will also come in useful.
In this chapter, I will help you discover:

• What size aquarium is right for you?
• What material should you build with?
• The planning and preparation stages.
Once you complete reading this chapter, you will

know:
• Exactly how to build an aquarium out of the 3 most
popular materials.
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• Everything there is to know about building aquariums
from start to finish.
• You will know everything I know.
This will be broken down into 6 parts:
1. Choosing the tank size.

2. What should I build my tank out of?
3. Glass aquarium
4. Acrylic Aquarium
5. Plywood Aquarium
6. Getting the most out of a sheet of material
Chapter 1, Part 1:
Choosing the right tank size
Before getting started,
Pro tip #1
there are many things to
consider. The first thing you “Build the tank you really
should consider is the tank size want the first time. There
you want to build. Many of us is nothing worse than
just want the biggest possible. looking at the tank you
However, there does come a just built, wishing you
would have done it
point where we are just tossing differently.”
money away. After all, the
bigger you go, the more it will
cost. Not to mention, the monthly running costs of an
aquarium. I know from personal experience, that once you
know how to build an aquarium, you will want a massive
tank! So being realistic will be your best decision here.
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So what size tank should you build? Well, you have two
options to tackle this decision. Either you are looking to keep
specific fish, or you want to fill a specific space in your home.
In my opinion, those are the only two things that should
determine tank size. Anything else leaves room for regret.
If you need a tank for a specific species of fish, or are

looking to create a certain community. Anticipate the animal’s
adult size. It is always best to start out with the right sized
tank, instead of constant upgrades. While obviously it would
cost more initially to build a bigger tank right from the start,
you will save a lot of money building one big tank than you
would building a couple smaller tanks, or even a smaller tank
then the bigger tank. Investing up front is always going to save
money in the long run.
What if you are not sure on the fish you wish to keep but
need to fill a certain area in your home? Or just simply have
an idea on the tank location and size? The easiest answer for
that; Go for it! Plan everything else around the size of the
tank.
So now that we know what size tank we want, is it even

possible? What I mean by that is simple; can you afford the
monthly running costs? How about if your floor will even hold
it!! We also need to consider the cost of equipment to run the
tank.
The monthly running costs will vary depending on your

location and cost of water and electricity. However, you can
estimate what it would cost on a monthly basis to power the
tank. We can safely assume that for every 100 gallons of
water, it will cost you very close to $15 a month to power the
tank. This calculation assumes the following:
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• 3 watts of heater per gallon
• 1 watt of lighting per gallon
• ½ watt of pumps/other equipment per gallon
This is a very typical running cost. In some cases, it could

be lower or even higher. This will depend greatly on how you
light the tank, and how much heating it needs. However, $15
per 100 gallons is a good starting point for the cost of power.
As for water, well that one is easy. The national average
is $2/1000 gallons. Anticipate the water change amount and
frequency. Calculate the cost to insure it is still affordable.
Can my floor hold it? The obvious answer here is to

have a professional architect come in and have a look.
However, keeping an aquarium on a cement floor would be
the best option. We don’t all have that option though, so
calculating if your floor can hold it is going to be best done by
a specialist.
When is a specialist needed? In my opinion, you will be

fine with anything up to 180 gallons in size. Positioning this
aquarium along a wall that is on the perimeter of the home is
best (Supporting wall). If you can find the support beams,
even better! Position the aquarium evenly across them. If you
do in fact need additional bracing for the floor, we will talk
more about that in another chapter.
How do you tell what size an aquarium is? This is

much easier than it sounds. A gallon of water is 231 cubic
inches. Knowing that, we can now calculate how many gallons
a tank holds by finding the cubic inches of an aquarium then
dividing that number by 231. So for example, we will want to
multiply the length X width X height of the aquarium (the
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order doesn’t matter). We then take that answer and dive by
231. It’s that simple.
Chapter 1, Part 2:
What should I build my tank out of?
There are a variety of options to choose from when it
comes to building an aquarium. The most popular is Glass or
Acrylic. However, plywood aquariums have been in the
aquarium hobby for 50+ years and are also a popular choice
for the average hobbyist wanting a very large aquarium. These
are the 3 types of aquarium we will be covering.
Which one is right for you
though? There are several Pro tip # 2
factors that will contribute to
your decision. These are very “Always calculate
important. absolutely every cost of
Typically they will break the new aquarium. The
initial cost is not the only
down as follows:
thing to consider. Don’t
leave yourself any
• Budget surprises. Be completely
• Skill aware of all costs involved
before committing to
• Availability anything.”
• Time
Budget – We usually will always have a set budget for a

project. Before getting started, it is always wise to first price
everything out. Even if you are not considering a certain
material, price it out anyways! Your budget might not be right
for what you are trying to do. It is always wise to gain a full
picture into the overall costs of all options. Once we have the
full picture, we might even consider BUYING a store bought
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aquarium. Especially at smaller sizes, it might simply be
faster, less time, and over all cheaper to just buy the tank. This
is great if you don’t have any specific needs for the tank
dimensions and don’t mind having the dimensions chosen for
you.
Skill – Skill can be broken down into several aspects. If

you have some sort of experience with a material, you might
want to go that route. However, it makes it difficult to use
those skills if you don’t have the right tools. Is there room in
your budget to buy these tools?
Availability – This is a big

one. Is what you need, in terms Pro tip # 3
of materials, even available in
“Consider all aspects of
your area? Will you be able to the build. What you might
simple pick these up locally? not think would be a good
Need to travel? Order it online? idea or even a preference
All of these can influence the at the time, might end up
difficulty of the build, as well as being the best choice once
you discover all aspects.”
the cost. So again, every aspect
of the build must be considered.
Time – DO NOT under value yourself. Do not forget that your

time is worth something too. Each build will take various
levels of time. This needs to be considered as well. Not only
due to your own time having value, but you might also want to
have your tank ready to go a lot faster than others. Keep this in
mind.
After considering the above points, we can now keep

them in mind to further decide on what’s right for you. So let’s
start the next topic on the pros and cons to each.
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You have the 3 main options. Plywood, Glass and
Acrylic. Obviously the viewing panel, no matter what you go
with will be either glass or acrylic.
How can we decide which one you want?
There are 4 main aspects to choosing:
 Price
 Availability
 Skill level
 Properties.
1: Price: Glass and acrylic prices vary greatly based on

location. There are NO SET PRICES for either one. What
someone might pay in one location will almost be completely
different than what you would pay. DO NOT base your cost
estimates off of what someone else paid. SHOP AROUND. In
most cases, Acrylic will be more expensive material.
However, sometimes it’s actually cheaper. You won’t know
until you find out.
2: Availability: Where can you buy glass or acrylic?

SHOP AROUND! Call glass shops, use the phone book and
try Google! Be a detective! Find everywhere that sell glass or
acrylic within a 1 hour distance of where ever you are. If a
shop you call doesn’t carry something, ask if they know any
where you can try that does. DO NOT stop if you find a place.
Keep looking. There is nothing wrong with looking for the
lowest price. Some places will even price match!
(Could save you time and gas!)
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3: Skill level: Working with glass or acrylic both have their
advantages. Acrylic is by far the easiest to machine. With
acrylic, you can use pretty much all the same tools you would
use with wood. Cutting and drilling it can be done easily.
However, once you start cementing it... there is no turning
back. You will need a bit of practice first.
We will cover more on that later. With glass, you need

specialty tools. Cutting it can be a headache, so can drilling.
While both are not extremely difficult to do, they are still
more difficult than acrylic. HOWEVER, there are rooms for
mistakes when applying silicone
to the glass. Pro tip #4
If you make a mistake, you can Need help deciding what

simply wipe the silicone off or to go with for the tank?
wait for it to cure and take it Ask your significant
other, someone you live
apart. This is something you with, or even a close
cannot do with acrylic. We will friend to help choose.
talk about why later. Getting them involved
will pay off in the long
4: Properties: Both glass and run!
acrylic has one thing in common:
You can see thru them. That’s
where it ends though. Everything else is different. Now you
will read a lot of comparisons online, but I intend to only tell
you the facts.
They differ in both physical and optical properties. Both

have their pros and cons as well. So let’s take a look at these
properties:
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Clarity: Which one is really clearer? We will define
clarity as how much light gets thru them. Also known as Light
transmission (how much light is penetrating/how much of the
visible color spectrum is getting thru)
The light transmission of acrylic is 93%

The light transmission of glass is 82%
So obviously acrylic has

the superior clarity. However, Pro tip #5
it doesn’t stop there. Typically
speaking, the thicker you go in Acrylic is the superior
a material, the less light material when it comes to
transmission there will be. glass VS acrylic. Acrylic is
superior in clarity,
That does not happen with distortion, Impact
acrylic. With glass, it gets bad resistance, Weight,
fast. You will notice the glass insulation and long term
having a green tint. This properties. However, can
becomes more and more we afford the statistically
higher price of acrylic, and
obvious the thicker you go. do can we be careful
This is due to the iron content enough around it not to
of the glass. Now you have ruin it with scratches?
probably heard of “starphire” Don’t jump to conclusions
glass. This is a glass with less on materials. Again, there is
much to consider.
iron content.
This will give you a light
transmission of 88%. Still not as good as acrylic, yet will cost
you a lot more than just regular glass.
Acrylic is actually the clearest man made product on the
planet!
Distortion: We all know that when you look into an

aquarium, the fish do not appear to be true to life. Meaning,
they are not that size or even in that location in the aquarium.
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Now what you look thru will depend on how distorted they
really are.
This is called refraction of light.
The air we breathe for example has a refraction of light of

1.00003
This is about the best you’ll get with anything.
Glass has a refraction of light of 1.53

Acrylic has a refraction of light of 1.49
With acrylic having the less amount of light being refracted,

this means that in an acrylic aquarium everything in it will
look more accurate than it would with glass.
The clear winner here is obviously acrylic. It is the superior

material for optics in every way.
Now let’s take a look at the physical properties of each.
Strength: There are a couple of things to consider when

comparing strength of the material for an aquarium. The 2
biggest here are going to be impact resistance and tensile
strength.
Impact resistance means how hard of a blow the material can
take before breaking.
To keep things simple, acrylic is 7Xs more impact resistant
than glass.
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Tensile strength basically means how much the material
can take before losing shape. (In this case, bending)
Glass has a tensile strength averaging 2.5Xs stronger than

acrylic! (This is the main reason you will see acrylic
aquariums using thicker materials than the same sized glass
tank.) With that said, this comes down to acrylic bowing long
before glass would. However,
a thicker material can be used Pro tip #6
to combat that situation.
There are a few
Weight: What does misconceptions surrounding
acrylic. The 2 main ones are
weight have to do with it? that is scratches easily. The
Well, big tanks will weigh a other one is that it yellows
LOT. You might need to over time. The fact that it
consider this. Not to mention, yellows over time is simply
WE are the ones that have to false. Cell cast acrylic
simply does not. Other
pick these tanks up! polycarbonates might, but
So what’s the difference? cell cast is not one of them.
Glass weighs more than twice The other misconception
as much as acrylic. with acrylic is that it
scratches easily. In fact, this
is the number one concern
Glass weighs 2.6 grams per with acrylic. While it does
cubic CM. scratch a lot easier than
Acrylic weighs 1.2 grams per glass, proper care and
cubic CM. caution will prevent them.
Big difference!!
Insulation: This is something that is actually pretty

important as well. Why? We pay to heat our tanks with
electricity. We all know an electric bill is not a difficult thing
to run high.
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So to calculate which one has better thermal properties,
we have to look at heat transmission (how fast heat will travel
thru a material)
Heat will travel 20% faster thru glass than it would with
acrylic. That 20% means acrylic retains more heat. Which in
turn means you can use 20% less power to heat that tank!
Doesn’t sound like a lot right now, but let’s say you use 100
watts less power with the acrylic tank. Calculate cost savings
over the course of a year. You would be saving about $35 a
year assuming your heater is only on 1/3 of the time on
average.
Durability: When it comes to durability, we look at

scratch resistance and chip resistance.
Chips happen from a direct impact to the material. We
already know that acrylic is 7Xs more impact resistant, so it’s
safe to assume a glass tank will chip before an acrylic tank
would.
However, acrylic is much softer than glass, so it will

scratch easier. With acrylic though, you can buff out any
scratch. With glass, you can only really get rid of superficial
scratches.
Long Term: There is a common misconception that

acrylic will yellow over time, this is very wrong. Cell cast
acrylic (what we build aquariums from) never yellows. Other
polycarbonates do, but acrylic is not one of them. This is
simply not an issue with glass.
The life time of these tanks are the same, however a glass
aquarium will look dull over time from thousands of
unavoidable scratches that simple form over time thru regular
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maintenance. This can happen with acrylic as well, but with
acrylic you can buff it to the point of it looking brand new
again. This is much more difficult and generally not possible
with glass.
Chapter 1, Part 3a:

Building a glass aquarium
Building a glass aquarium will be broken into 6 parts;
 Type of glass
 Thickness of glass
 Where to get the glass
 What size to order
 Supplies and environment
 Building the aquarium
Building a glass aquarium is easy, insuring you are

prepared for the build is the most important aspect. Being
prepared in this case, will mean you have all the proper
materials to complete the build. This includes having not only
the proper type of glass, but also the proper thickness. So
before we get started, we will take a look at what type of glass
and what thickness we will need.
What type of glass should you use?
Not all glass is the same as there are many types made in
many ways for different uses. When it comes to an aquarium
though, the only types we will consider is plate and tempered.
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Plate glass is the most common type of glass available.
Second would be float glass for smaller thicknesses. This is
what most aquariums will be made out of (plate). It has no
special properties and it’s not strengthened. What you picture
in your head as a regular piece of glass, this is it.
Plate glass is the most affordable, as well as the easiest to

machine (cut and drill). When building your own aquarium,
this is typically what you would
want to look for. Pro tip #7
Tempered glass is the other When planning an

option. Tempered glass is a type aquarium build, try to
keep the tank height less
of safety glass processed by
than 2 feet tall. The
controlled thermal or chemical thickness of material
treatments to increase its needed for a build is
strength. This results in a glass largely dependent on the
many times stronger than height of the aquarium.
After 2 feet tall,
regular float/plate glass. This is
thickness of glass or
fantastic for an aquarium due to acrylic needs increases
this. However, the down side is dramatically. So does the
it is expensive, has to be made cost of the build!
to order, and it cannot be
cut/drilled once it is made. If
you attempt to do so, it will simply shatter. (Imagine a car side
window breaking. Those are made of tempered glass for
example)
So the logical choice here is going to be plate glass.

Simply due to it being cheaper, can order it in any size and
you can cut/drill it if needed.
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How do you know if glass is tempered?
Knowing if glass is tempered is simple. Grab your camera

and grab a pair of ilicone sunglasses. Aim the camera at
the glass, but the glasses in front of the camera. What do you
see? Well, start with a piece that you know is tempered glass;
Like a rear view window on a car. You will see the glass have
many lines thru it. A non-tempered glass will not. You can
also place an LED screen behind the glass, turn it on and then
look at it with polarized sun glasses. If the glass turns out to be
tempered, DO NOT attempt to cut or drill it.
What thickness do I need?
Thickness of the glass required will depend on the length

and height of the aquarium. As a cautionary note, glass
thickness required LARGELY depends on how tall the tank is.
The taller you go, the thicker you will need. The thicker the
glass, the more it will cost. Let’s take a look at a glass
thickness chart to give you an idea of thickness needed.
In the following chart, the horizontal top row is referring

to the length of the aquarium. The vertical left row is referring
the height of the aquarium
2’ 3’ 4’ 5’ 6’ 7’ 8’ 9’ 10’
1 6mm 6mm 6mm 6mm 6mm 6mm 6mm 6mm 6mm
12”
15”
18”
20”
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24”
30”
36”
48”
Where to get the glass:
Glass is pretty common pretty much everywhere. Cost

will vary based on location, so there is no set price. What I
suggest doing is calling around. Call anything that has to do
with glass! Car window places, home window places, glass
shops, etc... Don’t be shy to ask if they sell custom size glass.
I highly recommend you call around for the best price. Be
FIRM with what you want. Glass shops will tend to try to
confuse you when ordering. Do not tell them it is for an
aquarium! For some reason, no matter what you are looking
for, the moment you say it’s for an aquarium, everyone has no
idea what you need or they don’t carry it. Simply state what
you want. If they ask what it’s for, just tell them a small
project. If they persist, tell them it is something you would
rather not discuss.
Let’s not forget the fact that we don’t NEED to buy new glass.
We can use glass from anything! Check your local classifieds;
maybe see if you can salvage glass from old windows, or
maybe even glass from a cracked tank. Heck, you might ever
be able to get the glass for free if you are creative with your
search!
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How to determine size
to order: Pro tip #8
So this doesn’t have When it comes to picking up

supplies to build your glass
anything to do with
aquarium, ALWAYS get
thickness, we already know more silicone than you think
what thickness we need. We you will need. There is
need to know how to order simply nothing worse than
or cut the glass into the running out of silicone half
way thru the build.
dimensions we need. So this
It is always better to have
is best illustrated with an too much, than to not have
example. enough!
Let’s say we are

building a small tank. A 15 gallon tank with dimensions of
24x12x12 (inches) and a glass thickness of 6mm.
You will need at least 5 panels.

The bottom panel will be the largest. It will be 24”X12”
The front and back will run the entire length of the tank.
They will be 24”X12” as well.
The tricky part is actually the sides of the aquarium. Since

these actually go BETWEEN the front and back, they won’t
actually be 12” wide. We HAVE to account for the thickness
of glass used. Since the front and back are using 6mm glass,
that will take up a full 12mm of the side. (1/2”)
so in order to get the side panel to fit; we have to
accommodate it for a smaller size. The side panels will then
only be 11.5” wide. This is EXTREMLY important to
remember.
29
Supplies:
You will need:

 Aquarium safe silicone
 Calking gun
 Electrical tape
 Gloves
 Acetone
 Square
Optional:
 Clamps/guides
 Glass cutter
 Painters tape
 Razor blades
Silicone: So obviously you need

aquarium safe silicone. Which
silicone is best for an aquarium
though? Well, you will want 100%
silicone, with no additives. You also
want to insure it does not say
“mildew resistant” or anything like it on the packaging. What I
typically always use, and have for years is “GE silicone I
Window and door”. Now at one point this used to say
“Aquarium safe” on the packaging. Several years ago, they
removed that label and replaced it with “Not safe for
aquariums”. HOWEVER, shortly after they came out with
“Aquarium silicone”. This is the same silicone, different
30
packaging, and twice the price! This is of course more of a
rumor, but there is some truth to it. The plus side to this is that
is exactly what you need, and it is cheap! Usually costing
$4.99 per tube OR usually $7.99 for two tubes. Which is great
because you should always buy more than you think you will
need. Typically, I will buy twice as much as I need. The return
what I don’t use, or simply keep it for another project.
Caulking gun: A caulking gun will make your job a

whole lot easier. They are
cheap, and can be reused time
and time again. These will
simply make the application
process faster, cleaning and
give you more control. A
caulking gun will cost around $10.
Electrical tape: Electrical tape will serve a very

important, yet simple purpose. It will hold the
tank together firmly as it cures. The reason we
use electrical tape is simple, it is a strong tape
that won’t leave any residue on the glass once
removed. A roll of tape will cost around $5
Gloves: Latex gloves will be a

huge help. They will help you grip the
glass without slipping, not to mention
they will keep your hands clean of
silicone. They offer a bit of protection
from cuts as well. I suggest buying a
small box of them, and switch them often during the build to
keep your hands free of silicone so you don’t get it
everywhere. A pack of gloves will cost under $10.
31
Acetone: Acetone is used to clean the area on the glass
where the silicone will touch. This insures a
very sterile and clean surface for maximum
adhesion. It also doubles as a great way to
remove silicone residue in case you make a
mess. You can find this pretty much
anywhere. Typically in cleaning supplies
departments. A liter of acetone will cost under $10.
Square: Having a square is a very

important tool for this job. We
want to insure our aquarium is
square and true, so using one
will insure this. They come in
a few different styles. I
recommend getting one that will fully fit
INSIDE the aquarium. I also suggest a plastic one in case you
bump the glass with it. These should only cost around $5 each.
Some of the optional supplies are:
Clamps/guides: Using clamps or guides

can prove to be hugely
beneficial when building a
glass tank. Especially on
larger aquariums of 100
gallons or more. There is a massive selection to choose from
but my 2 favorite is the traditional style quick release clamp
that I like to use on smaller tanks, as well has a corner guide
clamp. Costs on these vary greatly.
32
Glass cutter: A hand held glass cutter is
a must if you need to cut the glass. These are
usually only useful for glass with a thickness
of up to 6mm. Any thicker, and I highly
suggest getting it professionally cut. These
come in a variety of styles, but you should
expect to pay an average of $10 for one.
Cutting glass is simple, apply a bit of oil to
the blade, and then “etch” the glass by sliding the blade firmly
against the glass. This will now allow the glass to snap in half
along that line.
Painters tape: Painters tape comes in

extremely handy with a glass aquarium.
Typically it is used as a guide for the silicone.
It allows for a much cleaner application. We
use it as it is cheap, doesn’t stick too much to
glass so it is easy to remove and it also does
not leave a residue. A roll should only cost about $5
Razor blades: Razor blades will be your

best friend when it comes to silicone and glass.
Nothing will remove silicone from glass like a
razor blade will. These are extremely useful for
cleaning up messy silicone jobs. I suggest using
a hand held scraper with removable one side
blades. You can get the scraper and a few blades for under
$10. Replacement blades are even cheaper.
Now we can prepare the Environment:
The environment in which we build this tank is also very

important to prepare. We need to insure we have a clean
33
working area that is free from clutter. I suggest having a small
cart with all of your supplies on it within close reach. Also, a
garbage can close is also a good idea.
It is a MUST to have a flat and level working surface.
We can insure this by using a table (covered with a cloth to
insure protection from silicone) and making sure it is flat and
level with a basic leveling tool.
Do to the fact that silicone

does give off fumes as it cures; it Pro tip #9
is also recommended to build this
tank in a well-ventilated area. Glass is heavy! Do not be
Having a fan near the tank will afraid to ask for help!
blow the fumes away from you as Tell a couple of buddies
you work. what you are doing, and
ask them to come over
and give you a hand.
Building the aquarium: This will allow you a lot
more freedom to work
Building the actual aquarium on getting things done.
is the easy part! All the Regardless of tank size,
preparations, considerations and it is always best to have
someone else present.
planning are now done. We can You never know,
now move onto the actual build! something might be just
We’re going to cover the whole out of reach when you
build in 10 steps! need it most.
Start off by DOUBLE
checking that you have everything close that you will need.
Also measure the glass once again. MAKE SURE they are the
right dimensions. In fact, it’s a good idea to put it together
with just tape first to insure a proper fit. This won’t be
practical with larger tanks, so careful measuring BEFOR any
silicone touches glass is a MUST.
34
Step 1:
Clean the glass that surfaces that will have silicone on
them with a clean cloth and acetone. Scrub it good, and wait a
few minutes for it to evaporate. It’s smelly, so have a fan
going with a window open.
Step 2:
Take the bottom panel and laying it directly on the flat
surface you have chosen. You CAN use the floor if you like,
but that might make it more difficult if you are not limber.
Now take the electrical tape and cut up several pieces
approximately 6” in length.
Every 12 inches or so, tape a piece of tape UNDER the
glass with the sticky side up. Make sure at least half of the
tape is not touching the tank. (You might find it easier to tape
the tank from the top with the sticky side facing down, and
then flip the glass over.)
Step 3:
Apply a bead of silicone to what you will be using as the
FRONT of the tank. This insures the front of the tank looks
the best by making sure the glass is flush there first. The
amount of silicone you need to lay down will be ilicon. 75%
of the thickness of the glass you are using. Some silicone will
35
push out, and that is fine. You do not need to apply much
pressure. Ultimately, the amount of pressure to push down will
vary. You will need to leave a thickness of 2mm of silicone in
between the glass on tanks using 12mm thickness or higher.
Usually you just want to make sure there are no
bubbles/air pockets in the seam. Pushing down will squeeze
these out. As soon as the glass is in place, take your thumb or
index finger and slide it along the inside seam. This must be
done right away as the silicone starts to “skin” (meaning, it
starts to cure from the outside in) you will remove a bit of
silicone in the process. The end result of doing this will be a
nice clean concave silicone seam.
Step 4:
With the glass in place, use your square to insure a 90
degree angle of the inside. You are running low on time for
adjustments, so move quick. If the angle is good, flip that
electrical tape up to help hold the glass. On smaller tanks, the
glass will stand up on its own with the help of that silicone and
tape. On larger tank, you are going to need someone to hold
that one piece while you do the next.
36
Step 5:
This step is the same as the last, however this time; you
have more faces that need silicone. Apply the silicone to one
of the side bottom, then the side of the panel you just installed.
This is a good time for the corner brace if you have one. If you
don’t, it’s ok. Once you have the silicone laid in all areas that
the next piece of glass will lay, you can install that piece.
Come towards the glass in a diagonal fashion so as to not
smear the silicone too much. Once installed, use your finger to
smooth out the silicone. Working time between panes should
not stop. You do not have time to wait and think. This should
be done in a continuous fashion. All pieces are installed the
same. You just need to make sure you have lots of silicone,
and lots of tape cut. (Always cut extra). Once the side panel is
in place and we have removed all air pockets from the seam
by pressing down slightly (Only if needed. Usually the weight
of the glass is good enough), we can now insure it is all
square. With the side panel on and the panels square, you can
flip the tape up from the bottom like we did on the front, then
we can also apply at least 2 pieces of tape on the outside
corner. One near the bottom and one near the top.
37
Step 6:
We are going to repeat step 4 for the other side panel as
well. We will do it in identical fashion.
Step 7:
Installing the last panel on the back is what requires the
most silicone (as it touches 3 panels), but is actually the
easiest to do. Since the other 3 panels are all verified with the
square, the back panel will already have a perfect placement.
Apply the silicone to all outside edges of the tank that the new
piece will touch. Install by placing the back piece on the
bottom first, and then tilt it forward to meet the sides. Smooth
out the silicone once more. That’s it. Fold the bottom tape up
and apply tape to the outside corners again.
38
Step 8:
Now we let the tank cure “as is” for 24hrs. After that 24hr
period, we can remove the tape and inspect the tank. With a
razor blade we can clean up any messy silicone.
Step 9:
For tanks under 12” tall, we can now do a water test! Fill
it up and see if it leaks. Chances are it will be fine. If it does
leak, you can perform a simple reseal. This means removing
only the exposed silicone on the inside of the tank seams.
Once done, apply a new bead and smooth out with your
finger!
For tanks taller than 12”, we’re not done!
39
It is my opinion that tanks taller than 12” generally need a
brace. It is always better to be safe rather than sorry! The cost
of the brace is minimal, and the work is easy anyways. So why
not!
Bracing insures the tank will not bow out and bust.
There are 2 main styles of bracing. Cross brace and euro
brace. A cross brace is cheapest, but a euro brace is arguably
stronger and look better.
The brace should never be thinner in material than the
main aquarium. It should always be the same thickness. The
width should also be at least 3” wide to insure maximum
strength. For a 4 foot long tank, the brace should be 3” wide.
Every 2 feet of width after that, we will want an extra inch of
width.
Here is an example of a cross brace. You only need to

install the brace with silicone on TOP of the front/back panels.
Although placing it inside the glass like in the photo is more
appealing. Both are the same strength.
How many cross braces you need, will depend on the

length of the tank. For tanks 4 feet long and under, one brace
is fine. 5-6 foot tanks need 2. 7-8 foot tanks need 3, and so on.
Evenly space them from each other and the sides.
40
The other style option is euro bracing. This is where the
braces run the entire perimeter of the tank. You can overlap
them on the inside of the tank or you can fit them perfectly on
the inside like in the photo. You can also fit them perfectly on
the top of the tank (which is easiest). Overlapping allows for
the corners of each brace to be twice as thick, making it more
than twice as strong.
Step 10:
For the larger tanks (12”+ tall) we will wait one week
after the braces have been installed. 1 week is the full cure
time allotted for silicone. However, this depends on how much
41
silicone was used. It is always safe to wait the full week then
to have the tank come apart when filling.
Once the wait time is over, it is best to water test that tank
for at least another week.
If you do need to cut the glass:

Using your hand held glass cutter will do the job for
anything 6mm thick or less. Any thicker, and it’s extremely
difficult to get a straight cut.
Simply place your glass on a flat surface and use
something as a guide for the line. Clamp it down to insure a
straight line.
Simply drag the tool across the glass to create the etch in
the glass. Only drag it once with enough pressure to make this
etch.
Then move the glass to a sharp edge of a table/surface.
Place the etch right on top of the corner and press down on the
piece you want to remove.
42
This will snap the glass off. Be sure to wear protective
gloves while doing this! The glass will be SHARP. A light
sanding is recommended before use.
43
Chapter 1, part 3b:
Additional method
There is ALWAYS more than one way to do basically

anything.
That certainly applies to building glass aquariums.
In part 3a, I showed that when building a glass aquarium we

want to place the side panels on top of the bottom panel.
The main reason for that is simply because it allows more

room for error with measurements. If the bottom panel is too
big, it’s ok. You can still build it and have a bit of overhang. If
it’s too small, we only have to cut 2 panels to adjust.
It also makes sure we have a flat working surface and all sides
come in contact with the glass.
However, it’s actually the more difficult way to build the tank
as it is far more difficult to make all angles square.
With that said, it how I prefer to build tanks over 50 gallons.
For tanks under 50 gallons, I go with putting the bottom panel

inside with all side panels surrounding it.
Why? It’s far easier to do.
The down side is if you make the bottom panel too small or
too big, you have to cut 4 panels to adjust to the bottom.
44
So there is not a lot of room for error. Especially if you can’t
cut the glass.
Smaller tanks use thinner glass though, so it’s much easier to

cut.
Building it is simple, do everything I talk about in chapter 3a

of this book, but rather instead of placing the panes on top of
the bottom panel.
Step 1:
Since you can move pretty quickly through this entire build,
lay your bottom pane down in the center of your working area
and surround it(or keep them close by) with the rest of the
panels. The order in which the panels are placed does not
change.
Starting with a side wall. Silicone the side panel along the
bottom of that panel. Not on its edge, but rather on its face.
Again, using the thickness of the panel as a guide to how
much silicone is used.
45
Do the same for the rear panel as well. Silicone the bottom and
sides of that panel.
Lift the side panel up into place and push it into the bottom
panel. NOT on top of the bottom panel.
Push it into the bottom panel lightly until there are no air
bubbles in the seam.
Repeat for the back panel. However this time we want to

insure the side and bottom seam do not have any air in the
46
seam. The rear panel will go on the OUTSIDE of the bottom
and side panel.
These should both stay in place, but if you find them moving
around, a bit of electrical tape on the corners will hold it.
However, this is typically not needed until the end.
Step 2:
Move directly onto the last side panel. We want to silicone the
bottom face of this panel only. As the rear will already have a
bead of silicone waiting for it.
47
This panel is the hardest part. You will need to put it in place
like the other side panel, BUT away from the rear panel or you
will scrap the silicone. Once you have the bottom in place, you
can slide that side panel into the rear panel. Again, a bit of
tape can be used.
Step 3:
The front panel is the last one you need to do. Get it ready by
siliconing the sides and bottom face of that panel.
48
Slide it into place and pull it into position.
You will also want to make sure the tank is square at this time,
but if you lined up all the edges nicely, this won’t be an issue.
Tanks built this way are usually self-squaring.
The technique used for every panel is simple. Slide the bottom
edge of the panel into position, and then lift it up to meet the
rest of the tank. Paying special attention to the seam and
insuring all air is removed.
49
Step 4:
Now you can make the seams more presentable by smoothing

them out with your finger. Although I actually prefer to do this
after I set each pane.
Finally, waiting 24 hours prior to a water test is all that will be
needed. If it holds water fine, I would drain it and clean up the
tank of any silicone residue as well as remove excess silicone
with a razor blade from the outside of the tank that may have
squeezed out.
Tanks build like this, if you are well prepared, don’t take any
longer than 5 minutes to build.
This method makes it easier to not only build the tank, but also
insure it is square. This is because the panels basically square
themselves with the bottom panel being a guide. It’s still a
good idea to double check with a square though.
So if you are interested in building a smaller aquarium, do it
this way for sure. It is by far, the easiest method.
50
Chapter 1, part 4:
Building an acrylic aquarium
Building an acrylic aquarium will be broken into 6 parts;
 Type of acrylic
 Thickness of acrylic
 Where to get the acrylic
 What size to order
Building an acrylic is the type of aquarium most people

want to build, but feel they would never be able to do it. When
in fact, this is actually the easiest type of aquarium to put
together. There are simply just more steps to prepare for the
build. Once you see these steps, I think you will agree.
This entire build will be done in 10 easy steps.
Type of Acrylic:
Acrylic is a plastic. More specifically it is a

polycarbonate. Acrylic is the clearest man made material on
the planet. (No wonder it’s a popular choice for aquariums!)
However, there are actually 2 types of acrylic. Cell cast
and extruded. The difference in them is how they are made.
Which do we use for aquariums and why? What is the
difference?
To keep it simple, they are manufactured differently.
51
Extruded Acrylic is made using an extrusion/die method.
This way is the cheapest way to make an acrylic sheet.
This is a fast, horizontal production of extruding acrylic.
How extruded acrylic is made is by doing the following:
Resin pellets are fed into an extruder, which heats them
until they turn into a molten liquid.
This liquid is then forced through a die which forms a
molten sheet. It then air cools, and is done. This method is
VERY fast, very cheap to do.
Cell cast is made by one of three ways...
The first way is by liquid cooling. Acrylic syrup is poured
into a mold made from two tempered glass sheets. The syrup
is poured into to this mold, and how ever far apart those two
sheets are, is how thick the acrylic will be. The mold is then
submerged in a cool liquid, which maintains the proper
temperature for the acrylic to cure properly. This makes sure
the acrylic does not cure too quickly.
The second way is the same as the first, but instead of
cooling it in liquid, it is cooled in an oven that blows hot air
over the mold, which gets cooler and cooler with time. This
also stops it from cooling too quickly.
The third way is also the same as the first... but for the
cooling process, the mold has special chambers filled with
water that cool the acrylic slowly.
All cell cast is made the same, except the way it is cooled
changes.
So the differences here are the way they are cooled, and
the starting material for each. Cell cast acrylic is already syrup
before it hits the mold. So it is already bound at a molecular
level. Extruded is not.
The end result:

Cell cast is the harder acrylic, with far better physical and
optical properties than that of extruded.
52
Extruded is a “soft” acrylic, and is limited in the sizes it
can come in.
ALL aquariums need to be made from cell cast. Extruded
is too soft.
Thickness of Acrylic:
The thickness of acrylic is determined in the same fashion

that glass thickness is determined. Since acrylic has a lower
tensile strength, the materials actually tend to need to be a bit
thicker. So let’s take a look a basic chart for thickness. If you
need a custom size not listed here, please visit
DIYfishkeepers.com to have access to the acrylic thickness
calculator.
The top of the chart accounts for length of the aquarium.
The left side accounts for height.
The thickness chart assumes you will be bracing your

aquarium:
2’ 3’ 4’ 5’ 6’ 7’ 8’ 9’ 10’
12”
15”
18”
20”
24”
30”
36”
48”
53
A benefit to acrylic is that you can use a thinner bottom
panel. Typically the next step down in thickness can be used.
This is due to the stand that the acrylic tank will be sitting on
will be fully supported by it. All weight is then transferred to
the stand rather than the acrylic.
Where to get Acrylic:

Where to get acrylic will be similar to glass. Shop around!
Due to the durability as well as weight of acrylic, it can
actually be shipped! So now you can even shop online for it if
you can find something of a decent price.
Cost will vary based on location, so there is no set price.

Acrylic prices actually fluctuate with the price of oil! When
ordering, be SURE that you are buying CELL CAST acrylic.
Remember: Cell cast is a type of acrylic, not a brand. Most
places have no idea what they have from what I have found.
So ask what they have, then jump on Google and determine if
it is what you need.
How to determine size to order:

So this doesn’t have anything to do with thickness, we
already know what thickness we need. We need to know how
to order or cut the glass into the dimensions we need. So this
is best illustrated with an example.
Let’s say we are building a small tank 20 gallon tank.

Dimensions of 30x12x12 (inches) with an acrylic thickness of
6mm.
You will need at least 5 panels.
The bottom panel will be the largest. It will be 30”X12”
The front and back will run the entire length of the tank.
They will be 30”X12” as well.
54
The tricky part is actually the sides of the aquarium. Since
these actually go BETWEEN the front and back, they won’t
actually be 12” wide. We HAVE to account for the thickness
of acrylic used. Since the front and back are using 6mm
acrylic, that will take up a full 12mm of the side. (1/2”)
so in order to get the side panel to fit; we have to
remember.
Supplies:
You will need:

 Weld-on 4 and Weld-on Pro Tip #10
16
When it comes to
 Applicator bottle cutting acrylic, we
 Electrical tape remind ourselves of a
popular saying:
 Square “Measure twice, cut
 Acrylic scraper once”
However, with acrylic
Optional: we want to measure
everything twice before
 Clamps/guides not only cutting, but
 Acrylic cutter also cementing. Once we
 Router cut or cement acrylic,
there is no going back.
 Table saw DRY FIT everything
 Propane or map gas torch even after you have
measured.
Weld-on 4 and Weld-on 16:

Weld-on is “cement” commonly used for
welding acrylic. That’s exactly what we do
with acrylic, we weld it together. Unlike a
55
glass aquarium, where it is held together by silicone. The way
weld-on works is simple; when applied to two pieces of
acrylic; it softens the acrylic enough for it to fuse together.
Within about a minute, that weld-on evaporates and
you are left with one solid piece of acrylic. It is no
longer considered two pieces. Weld-on 4 will be the
main cement we use. It is water thin and dries fast.
This will be used to fuse the seams. Weld-on 16 is a
lot thicker, comparable to syrup. We use weld-on 16
in cases where we need something a little thicker. A
pint of Weld-on 4 will cost under $10 and build almost any
size tank. A small tube of weld-on 16 is all you will need to
have on hand, if at all. This should cost around $5. If weld-on
is unavailable, you can use methylene chloride.
Applicator bottle:
The applicator bottle is a must. This is what we will use to
apply the weld-on 4. Both the weld-on and applicator should
be available at the same place you but the acrylic. If not, these
are not difficult to order online. (Google it, use eBay, etc...).
An applicator is usually around $5
Electrical tape: Electrical tape will serve

a very important, yet simple purpose. It will
hold the tank together firmly as it cures. The
reason we use electrical tape is simple, it is a
strong tape that won’t leave any residue on the
acrylic once removed. A roll of tape will cost around $5
Square: Having a square is a very

important tool for this job. We want to insure
our aquarium is square and true, so using one
will insure this. They come in a few different
styles. I recommend getting one that will fully
56
fit INSIDE the aquarium. These should only cost
around $5
Acrylic scraper:
An acrylic scraper is also a very important tool. This will
be used to scrape the edges of the acrylic
panels to insure they are prepared for
welding. Without preparing the edges, you
will have bad seams. You can also use the
back of a hacksaw blade as an option tool.
Using a router is also an option. This style
scraper is what I generally use and will cost around $5.
Some of the optional supplies are:
Clamps/guides: Using clamps or

guides can prove to be hugely beneficial
when building an acrylic tank. Especially
on larger aquariums or 100 gallons or
more. There is a massive selection to
choose from but my 2 favorite is the
traditional style quick release clamp that I like
to use on smaller tanks, as well has a corner
guide clamp. Costs on these vary greatly.
Acrylic cutter:
You might end up needing to cut
the acrylic. While this is not the best
method to do so, it will cut acrylic up to
6mm in thickness. This works by
simple dragging the blade across where
57
you want it cut. This scores the acrylic, it can then be snapped.
This tool is $10 or less.
Router:
For those with power tools,
great! Almost all tools used on
wood can be used on acrylic! You
can use a router to prepare edges,
trim excess or even cut out access
holes! Be sure to use a double flute
carbide tip blade.
Table saw:
Just like the router, a table saw is a great asset. Using a
triple chip, carbide tip blade is optimal.
Torch:
The final touches to an acrylic tank are
polishing the edges. This gives it a glass like
look and not as dull (showing where your
cuts were)
we can use either a map gas torch or a
propane torch. A map gas torch burns
hotter, so this is idea, but a propane torch
works just as well. Costing about $15
Environment:
Acrylic tanks can be built anywhere you have room. The
cement odour is not strong enough to justify doing it outdoors
or even really in a well-ventilated area. However, having a
window cracked is always a good idea. The biggest concern
with acrylic is the mess you can make with shavings from
machining it. So have a vacuum or broom handy. You will
need it!
58
Of course, we will want a flat and level working surface
to build the actual tank on.
Building the aquarium:
Building an acrylic aquarium is much like a glass

aquarium, in that we put it together in much the same manner.
There are just a few extra prep stages that glass doesn’t have.
The most important factor when building an acrylic tank
is the seams. Each edge of the acrylic MUST be prepared
before cement is applied.
When acrylic is cut, most of the time there will be saw
mark/grooves left behind. We need to remove them. If we
don’t, the finished seams will
have bubbles in them. We need Pro Tip #11
to make them as flat as possible.
It is highly advisable to have Whenever possible, plan
the company you buy the acrylic your acrylic aquarium
around a full sheet. Try
from, also cut it to size for you. to get the most out of
Typically this is a free service, or that sheet. This might
at least very affordable. On that mean changing
same note, it is ALWAYS going dimensions slightly, but
to be cheaper if you plan your doing so could save you
hundreds of dollars. It is
aquarium around full sheets of far cheaper to buy a full
acrylic. Buy a sheet that is 8’x4’ sheet than to but off cuts.
and then having them cut it will
always be cheaper than simply
buying off cuts. In fact, it could
save you hundreds of dollars. If you plan on cutting it
yourself, buy full sheets as well.
59
Step 1:
With the acrylic cut into the sizes you need, we now need
to prepare the edges. This is going to take the longest to do,
and is the most labour intensive part of the whole build.
Cell cast acrylic will be covered in a paper backing. We
want to LEAVE this ON for the entire build process. It will act
as a protective barrier for the acrylic. Preventing scratches and
damage as you work on it. We don’t remove the paper on
either side until the tank is completely together.
Preparing the edges is actually pretty simple. We just
want to remove the saw marks. To do so, we will take our
acrylic scraper and hold it with two hands at a 45 degree
angle. We want to make long and consistent drags across the
entire surface of each edge that will be getting cemented. In
fact, we might as well do all edges to insure a nice finish.
Before getting started with scraping, it is advisable to dry
fit the tank together first. Make sure everything will fit.
We are looking to simple shave off enough to get rid of

the saw marks. It is extremely important to hold the scraper
level with the top of the acrylic. We do not want to shave out
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grooves OR shave off the sides. We need to insure we keep
this flat. A little bit of water wiped on the edge will show you
more clearly if you have removed the marks or not.
Take your time when doing this. A 4 foot run will take
about 5-10 minutes to perform. Meaning an entire 4’X2’ sheet
will take around 15-30 minutes. Yes, that is a long time, so
account for this. Do not try to rush it. In fact, I suggest only
doing a couple panels each day. Try not to exceed 1 hour of
edge prep per day. Anything more and you will become tired
frustrated and start getting sloppy. Again, take your time. This
is the most important step of the entire build.
Unless of course, you have a good router. A router will
make short work of all edge prep and you can get a piece done
in 2 minutes or less. Perhaps this is a good excuse to finally
get one?
Let’s take a look at some before and after shots.
Before you start preparing the edges, they will generally
look like this. Notice the saw marks. We need these
completely gone or we will have not only an ugly seam, but a
weak one.
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This is after. Notice the marks are gone. Slow, long and
consistent strokes with the scraper, is key. It will take a bit of
practice to get it right, so I suggest using a scrap piece to try it
on. Wiping with a wet cloth will give you a better idea of what
you have done. Without it, the surface will look cloudy and
deceiving.
With the edges prepped, we can move onto the next step.
Now it gets much easier!
Step 2:
Lay the bottom panel on a flat surface. Under it, have
your electrical tape applied every 12” or so. Have the sticky
side facing up.
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Step 3:
Peel back the paper backing about an inch or so. Hold that
paper back with more electrical tape.
Step 4:
Fill your applicator bottle up with weld-on 4. Only fill it
to 40-50%.
Start with the front panel in place (make sure paper is
peeling back and held with electrical tape as well). The front
panel sits directly in place. Now we want to make sure it is
level and square. Once we confirming that it is, we can hold it
in place with the square tapped to it. You might also want to
use a clamp to hold it in place.
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Now we can cement this panel in place. There are 2 main
methods to do this. Which one you use, will depend on the
thickness of the panel. For anything thicker than 12mm, we
will use a method called the “pin” method. For 12mm and
thinner, we will use a method using “capillary action”.
Capillary action means that the cement will get sucked
into the seam. Pin method means we prop up the panel with
pins, apply the cement, and then lower it back down. Capillary
action simply does not work well on anything thicker than
12mm, so don’t bother trying it.
The only difference here is that the pin method needs pins
every 6-8” between the panel. A cheap solution for these pins
is the wires in twist ties (simply rep the paper off of them).
This guitar string works as well.
We apply the cement in the same fashion however. Since
we have our applicator bottle filled 40-50% with weld-on 4,
we should practice with it. Squeeze out most of the air to start.
Tip the bottle upside down. You will notice that as soon as
you stop squeezing, air is sucked in and cement cannot drain
out. Once we apply a bit of pressure, cement can start to flow
out again.
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Holding the applicator a 45 degree angle, we run the cement
along the whole seam.
Slowly squeezing the bottle will allow cement to flow out.
If the cement does not travel all the way thru, either apply
more, or apply it from the other side.
This is what the seam will look like before you apply any
cement.
This is what will happen during. Notice the seam starts to

darken.
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For the pin method, we do almost the same thing. First,
place pins every 6-8”. Place panel on top of them with enough
pin poking out to be able to grab onto them to pull out.
Apply the cement under the panel, then start pulling the
pins. This is not as difficult as it sounds but testing and
practicing on scrap pieces will make you more comfortable
with the process.
You will have up to 30 seconds of working time after you
have applied the cement.
Step 5:
Now we can move onto a side panel. Side panel is done
the same as the front panel. Have you side panel in place,
paper rolled back on all edges, and taped into place.
Again, we want to use the square to insure a proper fit, as
well as clamps if needed, to hold in place. Keep in mind; you
are only using clamps to hold it. If you notice the cement is
creating bubbles, you can apply some pressure to squeeze
them out with the clamps.
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Step 6:
For the second panel, we simply duplicate what we did
for the other side panel!
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Step 7:
With the front and side panels applied, we can now install
the rear panel.
Again, we tape it into place, square everything up. Then

start to apply the cement. The rear panel is always last. Just in
case the bottom panel is a little bigger than needed, we will
have that slight overhang in the back, rather than the front.
Step 8:
Now that the tank is together, we can install a brace.
Bracing an acrylic tank is much like a glass tank, but we can
actually do a bit more with an acrylic tank as it is easier to
machine. The most visually appealing method is a full top,
with access holes cut out. We need our router for this though.
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If we don’t have a router, we can then refer back to what
we did for a glass aquarium. We will then cement the brace to
the TOP of the aquarium. We could apply it to the inside as
well, but this needs EXACT cuts and practice. Be sure to peel
back the paper on the tank before cementing braces on.
Because acrylic tends to bow a lot easier than glass
however, we need to ensure all sides of the tank have a brace
touching it. So euro bracing is the most popular option.
If we want to do a euro brace, we can actually do it all in
one piece like the example below, however, that adds up to a
lot of waste.
If you are looking for a full top brace, it is best to simply

cut out access holes in the top with a router. This is a good
example:
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With the pieces you cut out, you can then use them as
lids! Simple cement a couple of lid supports under the brace
like so:
The place cut out pieces on top! You can also drill out a
couple of finger holes for easy removal.
Step 9:
With the tank together, I like to wait at least 24hrs before
I touch it again. Once 24hrs have passed, I remove all of the
paper backing from the acrylic. Once this comes off, you will
be impressed!
We are not done yet though! We still have the option of
polishing the edges. The most common and easiest way is to
flame polish. This is done with a propane or map gas torch.
Practicing on a scrap piece is always advisable.
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DO NOT FLAME POLISH BEFOR YOU CEMENT.
This will cause crazing in the acrylic. ALWAYS cement first,
and then polish. It is best to use a narrow flame. We want the
blue part of the flame to do the work. We also only want to
flame the edges that are exposed. Start at one end; slowly
work to the other side. Don’t go too slow though, as the
acrylic is flammable!
What is the point to flame polishing? Well, let’s have a

peak at an unfinished edge, versus a flame polished edge:
The polished edge is on top, the unpolished edge is on

bottom. The results are outstanding.
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Step 10:
Now we wait! For smaller tanks, typically a wait time of
1-3 days is best. Anything larger than 6mm acrylic and I
suggest waiting a full week. Once the wait time has passed,
it’s time to fill it up!!
If you notice any leaks, mark the spot with a washable
marker. Drain the tank and try to fill the leak with weld-on 4.
To insure it never leaks again, run some weld-on 16 along the
seam.
Chapter 1, Part 5:
Building a plywood aquarium
Building a plywood aquarium will be broken into 6 parts;
 Type/thickness of plywood
 What to water proof with
 How to determine the size of plywood
Ever hear of a plywood aquarium? Well they are

becoming more and more popular every day! Basically, we
build a wooden box… cut out a front viewing window…
water proof the box… insert viewing panel. Sounds interesting
huh? Did you know that the tank on the cover of this book has
a plywood bottom?
Building plywood aquariums has been in the hobby for

well over 50 years. This is nothing new to the hobby, but
certainly very new to anyone that is new to the hobby, or has
never looked into building their own aquarium. Most people
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think they don’t last… BUT if built correctly, they will
actually last longer than a glass tank! Glass aquariums tend to
need to be resealed after 10 years of use, while a plywood tank
never does.
There are so many benefits to building your own plywood

aquarium, but the biggest is costs. Dollar per gallon, this can
be the cheapest way to build an aquarium. However, those
savings won’t typically be seen until the 200+ gallon range.
Anything less and the savings simply are not there.
Now a plywood aquarium also doesn’t sound that pretty
either.
Let’s take a peek at this photo:
That is a 240 gallon aquarium I built myself. The tank and

stand cost less than $500 total. Wouldn’t you say that is a
great price?
A huge benefit to a plywood aquarium is the massive

customization you can have. Your tank can turn out and look
like whatever you want.
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Building a plywood
aquarium is much like an acrylic Pro tip #12
or glass aquarium, in that they
A plywood aquarium
get put together in the same will last longer than
manner. Plywood tanks are almost any other style
simply help together with screws aquarium. The key to
rather than cement or silicone. lasting plywood tanks is
Of course, they need to be lined what you waterproof
with, and how you put it
with a sealant as well. together. While a
The down side to plywood plywood aquarium tends
tank are that they are a lot of to be the cheapest route,
work, and far more options can it does not mean you
be used when building them. should skimp out on
quality of supplies.
So let’s start off by taking a
look at what you will need.
Type/thickness of plywood:
The type of plywood you will need does not really matter
in terms of species of wood. I have used just about everything
to build one with the same results. What you do need to make
sure of though is that the sheet cannot be any thinner than ¾”
no matter what size you want to build. Purchasing the
best/highest price will usually mean less work for you though.
If anything, at LEAST get a sheet that is rated as “good one
side”. Meaning there will not be any knots in one side of the
wood.
In this chapter of how to build a plywood aquarium, we
will look at the basic design and principles of one. This will
work for tanks up to 300 gallons or more. Ideally we should
not exceed a tank that is more than 8 feet long or more than 2
feet tall.
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What to water proof with:
The key to a plywood aquarium lies mainly in its

structure, but none of that matters if it is not water proofed
properly!
Now the thing with plywood aquariums is that there are

so many things we can actually use to water proof it. Some
popular methods are epoxy paint and liquid rubber
membranes. We will talk about each one in this chapter.
When choosing the sealer, we need to first make sure it is

non-toxic. We also need to consider the pros and cons to each.
Epoxy paint: Epoxy is a 2 part paint that you paint on just
like normal paint, except it forms a water proof seal on the
plywood. You do have to mix the paint first in calculated
measurements to insure it works like it is supposed to. Once
applied this is the best looking option.
Pros- Looks good, comes in many colors. Strong and

durable. Finnish is smooth like glass, meaning it would be
able to have anything you need to stick to it. The best epoxy
paint I have used on a plywood aquarium has been pond
shield. It is phenomenal.
Cons- Tends to be expensive. Requires special attention

for application.
Liquid rubber: Liquid rubber (certain brands) is making a

huge splash in the hobby as of late. It is easily available, cheap
and easy to apply. It goes on just like paint, with no extra
effort. Unfortunately, it has more cons than pros.
Pros- Cheap and easy to apply
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Cons – Only one color. Silicone won’t stick to it (posing
viewing panel installation issues). Finish feels like a tacky
rubber meaning nothing will stick to it when needed (suction
cups, etc.) Goes on black and turns brown once under water
for a while.
Because of the cons to liquid rubber, we will use epoxy

for this build.
How to determine size of plywood:
So we know that we need ¾” plywood. It is probably

going to be best to have the lumber yard cut it for you. This
insures a straight cut.
Let’s say we are building a 120 gallon tank. Dimensions
of 48”x24”x24”.
You will need at least 5
Pro tip #13
panels.
The bottom panel will be A good thing about
the largest. It will be 48”X24” plywood aquariums is that
The front and back will there is room for error at
run the entire length of the first. If you cut something
too long, you obviously can
tank. They will be 48”X24” as correct that mistake. If
well. you cut it too short, then it
The tricky part is actually is easy enough to simply
the sides of the aquarium. sut the rest of the panels
Since these actually go down as well to
accommodate the shorter
BETWEEN the front and piece. Usually mistakes are
back, they won’t actually be under an inch anyways.
24” wide. We HAVE to Mistake was under an inch
account for the thickness of anyways.
plywood used. Since the front
and back are using ¾”, that
will take up a full 1.5” of the side.
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So in order to get the side panel to fit; we have to
remember.
Supplies:
You will need:

 #6 1.5” stainless steel wood screws
 Wood glue
 Power drill/drill bits
 Epoxy paint.
 Paint rollers/brushes
 Fibreglass cloth
 Square
 Glass
 Sand paper/sander/wood filler
 Silicone and calking gun
 plywood
Optional:
 jig saw
 table saw
 clamps
#6 1.5” stainless steel wood screws: The

screws will be what hold the tank together.
You will need A LOT. You might even want
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to estimate what you will need once you see how to build it in
this chapter. Spacing the screws every 2-3” on a 4x2x2
aquarium for example, will need about 150 screws! My
suggestion is to buy 25% more than you think you will need.
While having to stop to go buy more screws is not going to
ruin this project, it certainly will be annoying for you. The
down side is, stainless steel wood screws are not cheap.
Expect to pay around 20$ for 200.
Wood glue: Wood glue is another important piece to the

puzzle. However, this stuff is cheap and commonly available.
Get the best you can find. I like to use carpenter strength wood
glue. Expect to pay around $5 for a tube of it. With this stuff,
buy twice as much as you think you will need. OR at least be
very confident in the amount you do buy. You do not want to
run out of it while you are gluing a seam!
Power drill/drill bits: You are definitely going to need a

power drill. We not only need to screw
the screws in, but we need to drill the
pilot holes as well. So have one on
hand, buy a cheap one just for the build
or simply borrow one! You will need
the correct bit for the screws, and you
will also need various sized drill bits for the pilot holes.
Epoxy: For the epoxy, we talked about using pond shield

buy pond armor. The great
thing about this is that it
comes with all the
instructions you will need.
You will be able to find out
exactly how much you need
to on their website. (Google it). Which that said, a 1.5 quart kit
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will cost around $80 and cover about 60 sq/ft. My suggestion
here is to buy 25% more than you need for touch ups. You can
buy it directly from their website, eBay or a number of online
stores. Even your local pond store or hardware store might
carry it!
Paint rollers/brushes: For this epoxy, you will need a

short nap roller. I found that
starting with a short nap roller,
and then finishing with a sponge
roller worked best. You will also
benefit for having a plastic
squeegee on hand. While you’re
at the paint store, you might
want to consider other paints or
stains as well. (For the outside of the tank). Typically
speaking, you’ll be able to grab a few rollers for around $10.
Fibreglass cloth: This will be used to reinforce the seams

of the tank. We will want a basic
cloth that is at least 4” wide. You
can calculate how much you will
need by measure the entire inside
seams and adding them up.
Depending on how much you need,
the cost will vary, but it’s not much.
You’ll find this any hardware or
automotive shop.
Square: We will want to make sure the tank

is properly square. So having
these on hand will come in
handy to make sure it is. They
come in a variety of sizes and
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types. Just make sure yours will fit in the tank. Don’t expect to
pay much more than $5 for one.
Plywood: ¾” plywood. At least rated as good one side.

The higher quality, the better!
Glass: We obviously need to see into the tank somehow.

In my opinion, glass will be the best choice for a plywood
aquarium. Why? Well it is easier to silicone it in place rather
than screw acrylic in place and create a gasket for it. The
thickness of glass needed does not differ on how we size glass
for a regular glass tank. Use the chart I provided earlier. OR
find a cheap used tank and take it part to use its glass! I have
done that many times.
Sand paper/sander/wood filler:

Some sand paper will be needed to prepare the surface of
the plywood. Depending on the quality of the plywood you
purchased, you might not even need it. Getting some 60 and
100 grit sand paper is all you will need. A palm sander will
make the job a lot easier. The wood filler will be used to fill in
any knots or irregularities in the wood. You can completely
skip this step by getting high quality plywood.
Silicone: So obviously you need aquarium safe silicone.

Which silicone is best for an aquarium
though? Well, you will want 100%
silicone, with no additives. You also
want to insure it does not say “mildew
resistant” or anything like it on the
packaging. What I typically always use,
and have for years is “GE silicone I
Window and door”. Now at one point this used to say
“Aquarium safe” on the packaging. Several years ago, they
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removed that label and replaced it with “Not safe for
aquariums”. HOWEVER, shortly after they came out with
“Aquarium silicone”. This is the same silicone, different
packaging, and twice the price! The plus side to this is that is
exactly what you need, and it is cheap! Usually costing $4.99
per tube OR usually $7.99 for two tubes. Which is great
because you should always buy more than you think you will
need. Typically, I will buy twice as much as I need. The return
what I don’t use, or simply keep it for another project.
Caulking gun: A caulking

gun will make your job a whole
lot easier. They are cheap, and
can be reused time and time
again. These will simply make
the application process faster,
cleaning and give you more
control. A caulking gun will cost around $10.
Optional:
Jig saw and table saw: Ok, so

we’re working with wood here. These
two combined can do a lot for you
when it comes to wood work.
However, they won’t be needed at all if the
lumber yard is cutting your plywood for you.
Still, having a jigsaw will be great for the
brace if you plan to do a full top brace!
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Clamps/guides: Using clamps can prove to be hugely
beneficial when building a plywood aquarium. I always want
to say these are mandatory, but you can get by without them, I
know I have. They simply make the job a lot easier. There is a
massive selection to choose from but my favorite is the
traditional style quick release clamp. Costs on these vary
greatly.
Environment:
Wood work is messy, it belongs outside. The epoxy we

are going to use will not come off easily from anything you
drip it on either. So we really need to make sure we either do
this outside, or at least build it over an old bed sheet. As for
fumes, it’s not a huge concern, but cracking the window and
turning on a fan will help. Insuring you have a clean working
area and all supplies in the same room will prove to be very
useful. Building this tank on saw horses will be a good option
as well.
Building the aquarium:
Before we get too nervous about what is going to happen

next, we need to remember we are simply going to be building
a wood box! It is not as complicated as it sounds.
Step 1:
Start off by placing the bottom panel on a table or saw
horse. We will need to be able to get under the tank somehow
and these are the two best options. Luckily, this gets put
together in much the same way as any other tank.
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Step 2:
With the bottom panel in place we can now dry fit the rear
panel. Clamp it in place and drill pilot holes from under the
bottom panel into the bottom of the rear panel. The bit used
should only be about ¼ the size of the screw diameter. Drilling
the holes every 2-3” is best.
Once done; remove the rear panel, lay a long strip of glue
where it was and place the panel back in the same spot. Clamp
it down, and start drilling the screws into the pilot holes. Some
glue will squeeze out, but we can clean that up after the screws
are all in. The whole time, we are making sure it is square with
our square.
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Step 3:
We will repeat this process for the whole aquarium. Only
with the sides, with have not only the bottom to drill, but also
the sides where they meet the front panel.
Step 4:
We are now ready for the front panel. This requires the
front panel to be ready in advance. All we need to do is cut out
the viewing window. We will use the jig saw for this. All we
need to do is cut out the hole, leaving at least a 2” lip all the
way around. Once the front panel is prepared, we install it just
like the other panels.
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Step 5:
I like to wait a day before I move forward. This gives the
glue time to cure. When the glue dries, the screws and glue
make an incredibly strong seam. We can even increase the
strength by adding supports to the inside seams with 1”x1”
strips of wood. We would just glue and screw them in place.
Step 6:
We can now prepare the inside of the tank for epoxy. This
is an optional step, depending on the quality of the plywood.
Ideally all we need to do here is sand the whole inside with 60
grit sand paper. Fill in any irregularities in the wood with a
wood filler, then simply sand down the whole tank with the
100 grit.
Step 7:
Since we are using pond armor for this project, it is best
to follow the instructions it comes with. They are simple and
easy to follow. Basically you need to mix the 2 part epoxy.
With it mixed, you can apply some all of the seams with a
brush. Here is an example of a flat seam:
While it is still wet, we want to take our ilicone r cloth

and line all the inside seams with it.
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Cover it again with more pond armor. Use your squeegee
to flatten it out.
Once you have prepared all of the seams, you can now
coat the whole inside of the tank.
Wait 24 hours for it to cure, and then sand it down. Apply
a second coating. The instructions provided in the epoxy kit
will give you specific details.
Step 8:
We are now ready to install the glass. This is as simply as
laying the tank face down. So that the front panel of the tank is
flat on the stand. Line the interior of the inside front panel
with your silicone. The glass panel should be at least 1” larger
all the way around than the hole you cut out. For example; if
the hole is 70x20, then the glass needs to be 72x22.
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With the front frame now laid with silicone, we can
simply insert the glass inside and lay it on top of that seams.
Push down on it to distribute the silicone. The silicone needs
to cover the entire surface that touches the glass, so you
enough to do this.
Step 9:
Let the front glass cure for at least 3 days before moving
to the next step.
The next step is bracing. Your plywood tank will need
proper bracing. We will look at the 2 most popular methods.
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The first is plywood strips spaced every 18” or so.
Making sure they are 4” wide.
These too need to be protected by water proofing the insides
after installing them. These are installed inside of on top of the
tank, it won’t matter which way you do it. Make sure that the
end braces actually touch the side panels and are screwed into
the as well. The braces are simply glued and screwed into
place.
The second option is a full top brace. Simply take a full

sheet of plywood and cut out the access holes with your saw.
Glue and screw it into place, then water proof it.
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Step 10:
Finishing the outside of the tank is the last step. It also
needs to be protected to some extent. Some people like to stain
the wood, then a protective top coating over that. Since this is
not touching water, we can use pretty much any stain or paint.
That’s it! Let it all cure for a week and then fill it up with
water! Any leaks are easily fixed with more pond armor.
Chapter 1, Part 6:
Getting the most out of a sheet of material
A huge question a lot of people ask is how they figure out
how to get the most out of a sheet of material. Due to the fact
that buying a full sheet and having that cut up costs a lot less
than having random sections cut out.
The down side is being slightly restricted to the sheet
dimensions. Now this will only apply to plywood and acrylic
sheets. Glass does not apply here, as you will pay the same
cost no matter what.
When I plan a build I tend to try to plan it around full
sheets. The most common size of a sheet is 8 feet by 4 feet.
So knowing that, what I do is open a program as simple as
Microsoft paint. I draw in an 8X4 box and start adding my
“cuts” in. It works sort of like a puzzle. What you have to
insure though, is that the entire plan focuses on straight cuts.
Meaning; you can cut through the entire sheet in one swipe.
You might have to turn the sheet a few times while cutting,
but it still remains a straight cut.
Using a program like MS paint, you can draw an 8x4 box
and set it to be in whatever measurements you want (inches,
centimeters, etc…).
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I prefer inches.
From there, you now have a guide to get the most out of that
sheet.
I drew up an example. Using an 8x4 sheet of acrylic for

example.
A 90 gallon aquarium fits nicely on a full sheet. It allows

for enough space for the tank as well as the braces. In this
case, I went with euro bracing as it uses the least material.
This is a small example, with larger tanks being able to

save even more materials.
This is something I would end up emailing of printing out

and bringing with me when ordering the materials. Especially
if they are cutting it up for you. The can see it first-hand what
90
you are looking to do, and you can show them it can all be
done on one sheet.
Now any blade will eat into the material. They will
mention that you will lose 1/8” off of the cuts. However, you
should mention to them that you want them to make sure the
big cuts are accurate and that the loss should be on the braces.
You might lose an overall ½” off this whole sheet for
example, due to the blade.
Being prepared with a cut sheet like this will not only
make the cuts a lot easier to follow, but save you a ton of
money from just buying off cuts.
With a cut sheet, you might also notice that you have a lot
of wasted space on a sheet, and be able to go bigger. On the
other hand, you might notice that those extra couple of inches
is making the project cost upwards of twice what it should!
Always use a cut sheet!
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CHAPTER 2
How to build an aquarium stand
and canopy
Building an aquarium is the second most popular and
sought after aquarium project. However, it is probably the
most done due to the ease of the project. Building your own
stand is a no brainer, you save a ton of money and you build
something stronger and more durable than any store bought
stand can offer. Not to mention, you can make it make the rest
of the furniture in the room for a better looking interior.
In this chapter, I will help you discover:

• How to build an aquarium stand
• How to build an aquarium canopy
• The planning and preparation stages for both.
Once you complete reading this chapter, you will

know:
• Exactly how to build an aquarium stand and canopy
using the best format possible. While completely
understanding what it all means.
• You will know everything I know.
This will be broken down into 2 parts

 How to build an aquarium stand
 How to build an aquarium canopy
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Chapter 2, Part 1:
How to build an aquarium stand
So you want to build an aquarium stand?
Probably for good reason. Typically the top reasons to
even do so is:
 You have a custom size tank that needs a custom size
stand
 You have a specific
requirement for the stand
that store bought doesn’t Pro tip #14
offer
Curious if the stand will
 You don’t want to pay be strong enough? Well,
hundreds/thousands of let’s take a look at what a
DIY stand can even hold.
dollars for something you We will be building the
can do yourself for 1/3 of frame from 2X4’s. An
the cost or less. upright 2X4 can support
up to 800 lbs.
Even the smallest stand
With reason, comes doubt. using this design will
 Will the stand be strong have 8 upright supports!
enough?
 Will I be able to do it
properly?
Curious if the stand will be strong enough? Well, let’s

take a look at what a DIY stand can even hold. We will be
building the frame from 2X4’s. An upright 2X4 can support
up to 800 lbs.
Even the smallest stand using this design will have 8
upright supports. Let’s do the math on that:
800lbs X 8 supports = 6,400 LBS.
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That is the minimum! Now look at your store bought
stand and ask yourself how much that stand can support. You
won’t be able to answer that. All we know about it is that it is
holding the tank up and the store says it’s strong enough.
There is no store bought stand on the planet that comes close
to how strong and durable a DIY is. That’s a fact. This is only
calculating the strength of the upright supports alone. We are
not even looking at the shearing strength of the screws, or the
plywood strength we will wrap it in. But let’s say they add an
extra 20% strength. This now means a DIY stand up to 4 feet
long will support almost 7,700 pounds!! Even a full 120 gallon
4 foot glass tank will only weigh less than 1,200 pounds. That
means your DIY stand is almost 7Xs stronger than it needs to
be!
That’s a huge perk to DIY; we learn and know more

about what we have than you will ever learn with a store
bought item.
Now you might also be asking yourself if you are capable
of building a stand. Well, the short answer is YES. Anyone
can do it. It is not a complicated or intricate project. It is very
straight forward and easy to do. If you have never picked up a
tool in your life, you can still do this!
There is really not a whole lot to it. In fact, it can be

broken down to 3 parts.
 supplies
 Building the frame
 Wrapping the frame
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Supplies:
You will need:

 2X4’s
 #6 2.5” wood screws
 Power drill
 Wood glue
 Plywood
Optional:
 Chop saw
 Table saw/Jig saw/chop saw
 clamps
2X4’s: You won’t need many

2X4s to complete this project.
However, don’t buy them blindly.
Calculate how many you will need first.
I highly suggest buying construction
grade 2X4s as they tend to be the
straightest. On average you will pay less than $2 each. Wait
for a sale at your lumber yard; they tend to go on sale at least
once a month.
#6 1.5” stainless steel wood screws:

The screws will be what hold the stand
together. You will need A LOT. You
might even want to estimate what you will
need once you see how to build it in this
chapter. How many you need is about 80-
120 no matter the size of the stand. You
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just need basic wood screws, so I would not expect to pay any
more than $10 for 150.

glue. Expect to pay around $5 for a tube of it.
Power drill/drill bits: You are definitely going to need a

power drill. We not only need to screw
the screws in, but we need to drill the
pilot holes as well. So have one on
hand, buy a cheap one just for the build
or simply borrow one! You will need
the correct bit for the screws, and you
will also need various sized drill bits for the pilot holes.
Plywood: Since this plywood will be on the other side of

the stand and be very visible, I suggest buying furniture grade
plywood. Not only is it most visibly appealing, it also needs
no extra prep. Buying it in ¼” will all that will be needed.
Costs vary greatly based on location.
Optional:
Jig saw/table
saw/chop saw: Ok, so
we’re working with wood
here. Power tools are
almost a must! These two
combined can do a lot for you when it
comes to wood work. However, they
won’t be needed at all if the lumber yard
is cutting your plywood for you. The jig
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saw will allow you to cut out the access holes for the doors.
The chop saw will be used to cut up the 2X4s. However, this
can also be done on a table saw.
Clamps: Using clamps can

prove to be hugely beneficial
when building a stand. I always
want to say these are
mandatory, but you can get by
without them, I know I have.
They simply make the job a lot
easier. There is a massive
selection to choose from but my favorite is the traditional style
quick release clamp. Costs on these vary greatly.
Step 1:
Sizing the stand is simple. All we really need to consider
is the length and width of the stand. The height is up to you!
Cutting the 2X4s can be done by your lumber yard. If not, I
like to use a chop saw.
My suggestion is to make the stands height and width

slightly larger than the aquariums foot print. I like to have
about ½” of wiggle room all around the aquarium. So to do
this, we must cut the 2x4 top and bottom frame slightly larger
than you think you would need.
This is best shown as an example.
Let’s say the foot print of the tank is 48” long X 12” wide.
That means the stand will need to be 49” long X 13” wide.
Meaning; when the tank is sitting on the stand, you will have a
½” all the way around it.
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We want to start off with making the bottom and top
frame first. The front and rear boards need to have that 49”
length. Since the sides will be going on the inside, we need to
account for the width of the front and rear board. Now keep
this in mind; a 2X4 is not really 2” X 4”, it is actually 1.5” X
3.5”. So if we account for the 1.5” on the front and rear taken
up by those 2 boards. This will mean the side boards need to
have 3” total taken off. So those boards only need to be 9”
long. However, only going with 9” long means the total width
including the front and rear boards will be 12” wide. We need
to remember that extra 1” of total width needed though, so we
make the side boards 10” wide, giving the total width 13”.
We will need to make 2 of these in total. To do so is

simple: I like to place the rear board up against a wall so that I
can screw into it and it won’t move. We first drill the pilot
holes, then apply the glue and screw in 2 screws into the
front/rear board so that they drill into the side board. You can
use a clamp to assist in this part if you have one.
Step 2:
The uprights are next. However, these do not actually act
like supports, nor do they carry any real weight. These are
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what I like to refer to as guides. They will depict how tall the
stand will be. However tall these are, you stand will be.
Insert them into the corners of the bottom frame, and

glue/screw them into place.
Step 3:
Since we already made the top and bottom frame, we can
now but that top frame on the floor. Flip the stand over so that
the bottom is now facing up. Pick the stand up and gently
insert it into the top frame. Glue and screw it in place.
Step 4:
We can now add in more support for the width. These will
be the exact same size as the original width boards were for
the top/bottom frame.
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We want to screw them into place from the front and back
frame, as well as screw them in the uprights as well.
Step 5:
Now we can tackle the actual supports of the stand. We
will want to measure the distance from the inside top of the
bottom frame, to the inside bottom of the top frame. That will
be how tall the supports need to be. We will need 2 for each
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corner. We will glue and screw them into the uprights, and
into each other.
Install them exactly how it is illustrated below. The
supports should cross over the seams of the top/bottom frame
and not line up with them.
Notice the corners overlap the seams of each board. This

adds to the overall strength of the stand.
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Step 6:
So far, we have created a stand that is perfect for anything
up to 4 feet wide. For a tank longer than 4 feet, we will need
some center support. Doing so is simple. It is actually done the
same as the corners. We need an inside guide that is secured to
the top and bottom frame. We then need the actual support.
The support is simply help in place by the upright guide.

Placing at least 4 screws in the top and bottom of the support
will be needed.
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Step 7:
Notice the center width support above running front to

back in the top and bottom frame. This is needed if you have a
glass or acrylic tank that has no bottom frame on it lifting it
up.
Without it, the tank will sag and eventually bust. If you
have a glass tank a bottom frame that lifts the bottom panel
glass up by an inch, then you won’t need that on a smaller
tank, as the tanks weight sits on the perimeter of the stand.
If we do have a tank with no bottom brace on it, then we

need it. We will also need the tank to sit flat on something, so
using ½ or ¾” plywood cut to the size of the top of the stand is
best. Simply screw it down into place.
Furthermore, to insure there are no pressure points on the

plywood exerted onto the bottom of the aquarium, as well as
absorb any irregularities, we will use a thin sheet of
Styrofoam. ½” is all you will need. This can be glued right
into place.
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Now as is, this aquarium stand looks pretty go as is. If
you are satisfied with the look, I would simply paint it black or
whatever color you want and just go with that. If you want a
more of a furniture look, we move onto the next step.
Step 8:
In this step, we will wrap the stand. There are many
materials you can wrap it in, but in this example, we will use
plywood. I like to use ¼” for the wrap as it doesn’t need to be
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that think. This also allows me
Pro tip #15
to justify me paying for the
higher price of furniture grade A DIY stand of almost any
plywood. reasonable size will cost
We want to start with the under $100. A canopy will
generally not go over $50.
front panel. We want the front
With this in mind, it is a
panel to be slightly larger than very practical decision to
the front of the stand. This simply build your own
again will depend on the aquarium furniture that
thickness of plywood used. will not only save you
hundreds of dollars, but
Let’s use ¼” thick as an
also match your interior
example for a stand that is 49” décor. So even if you
long X 30” tall. purchased a stand to go
That would mean the front with your aquarium, I
panel would need to be 49.5” believe that it is still worth
it to build your own and
inches wide. This will allow the
maybe sell that stand you
side panel seems to be hidden. bought to pay for the
The height can be the same size materials.
as the stand, but I like to hide
the aquarium trim and
plywood/Styrofoam at least.
So take into account the thickness of plywood and
Styrofoam, as well as the height of the tank trim. Add all of
that to the height of the stand.
So on a 30” tall stand with ½” plywood and ½”
Styrofoam sitting on top, we now need a panel height of 31”.
Add in the trim, and we get a little higher.
Once you have that panel cut to size, you can dry fit it in
place and trace where you want the doors. I suggest doing this
from the inside of the stand to insure your doors are not over
the actual frame. Once you have them traced out; cut them out
with the jig saw.
Finally, simply screw the front panel in place.

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Step 9:
Now we can move onto the side panels. The side panels
will be the same height as the front panel, yet only the width
of the actual stand. Simply screw them both into place.
Once the side panels are installed you will notice that the
front of the tank is seamless. There are no seams in the
plywood. These are only seen from the side. However, you
can fill the seams in with wood filler, and then sand it down
for a completely seamless look.
Not only do this panel now make the stand look good,
they actually offer a ton of strength to the stand when it comes
to stability.
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Step 10:
The doors are what most people fear or worry about.
These are actually very easy to do. Simply cut out the doors,
or even buy nice cabinet doors that are at least 1” larger all
around than the hole you will be covering. Screw some hinges
into the doors of your choice and style, then screw to the front
panel. You can even add on handles.
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Step 11:
We are now left with a finished stand. The last step is

staining or painting. That will be up to you! Once done, you
can slide the tank on from the rear of the stand, unless you had
the tank on it from the point before adding the panels on.
Ultimately, almost any size stand should cost you under

$100.
Chapter 2, Part 2:
Stand strength
When it comes to building a stand, you must know what
material to use. Not only should you know what to use, but
what it is rated for and how much weight it can actually hold.
There is a huge misconception in the hobby that a 4x4 piece of

lumber is the strongest you can use. When in fact, any size of
regular lumber a size bigger (2x6 and up) is much stronger in
every way, yet much cheaper. While a 4x4 and similar lumber
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still have their uses, aquarium stands should not be one of
them.
When calculating how much weight your stand should

hold, we would need to consider two factors:
 How much weight can the wood hold vertically.

 How much weight can the wood hold horizontally.
The first chart will show you allowable weights for the lumber
on a horizontal, on edge piece of lumber.
Lumber 4’ 5’ 6’ 7’ 8’
2x4 459 368 306 262 229
2x6 1134 908 756 648 567
2x8 1971 1577 1314 1126 985
2x10 2567 2567 2139 1833 1604
This second chart will show you allowable weight for the
lumber standing vertically.
Lumber Weight
2x4 800 pounds
2x6 1200 pounds
2x8 1600 pounds
2x10 2000 pounds
We want to aim for a stand that is at least 4 times stronger

than needed when it comes to BOTH horizontal and vertical.
How much does your aquarium weigh? Well, water
weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon. We already know how to
calculate an aquariums size from previously in this book, so
we just need to know how much the tank will weigh.
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 Glass weighs 2.6 grams per cubic ilicone r.
 Acrylic weighs (depending on brand) an average of 1.2
grams per cubic ilicone r.
Obviously calculating weight of the actual aquarium will

be difficult; however a rough estimate is all that is needed.
Chapter 2, Part 3:
How to build an aquarium canopy
An aquarium canopy can be both functional and beautiful.
Most people usually want a canopy for one of these 2
reasons:
 To mount lights inside of it
 To give their aquarium a more “furniture” look
Most people will think that building a canopy is difficult,

and don’t realize how simple it actually is. In this chapter I
will be showing an extremely easy design. While there are
many designs, this one will show one that is functional,
visually appealing as well as simple to do.
Now you might also be asking yourself if you are capable
of building a canopy. Well, the short answer is YES. In fact, I
would rate this as being much easier than building a stand.
There is really not a whole lot to building an aquarium
canopy.
In fact, it can be broken down to 3 parts.

 Supplies/environment
 Building the frame
 Wrapping the frame
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Supplies:
You will need:

 1X2 pine boards
 #6 1.5” wood screws
 Power drill
 Wood glue
 Plywood
Optional:
 Chop saw
 Table saw/Jig saw/chop saw
 Clamps
1X2 pine boards: We won’t need many of these for this

design. Since this will depict the height of the canopy, you
will probably only need one 4-6 foot piece. Expect to pay
around $3 for it.
#6 1.25” wood screws: The screws will be what hold the

canopy together. You won’t need a lot though. The average
canopy will only use 20-30 screws. Expect to pay around $5
for 30. You may adjust the length of screws if you are using
thicker plywood than this project does. Ideally you want the
screws to go thru the pine board and hallway thru the
plywood.

glue. Expect to pay around $5 for a tube of it.
111
Power drill/drill bits: You are
definitely going to need a power drill. We
not only need to screw the screws in, but
we need to drill the pilot holes as well. So
have one on hand, buy a cheap one just for
the build or simply borrow one! You will
need the correct bit for the screws, and you will also need
various sized drill bits for the pilot holes.
Square: We will want to
make sure the canopy frame is
properly square. So having these
on hand will come in handy to
make sure it is. They come in a
variety of sizes and types. Just make sure yours will fit in the
tank. Don’t expect to pay much more than $5 for one.
Plywood: ½” plywood. At least rated as good one side.

The higher quality, the better! I would match whatever you
used for your stand. In the end, we want them to be identical.
Optional:
Jig saw and table saw: Ok, so we’re
working with wood here. These two combined
can do a lot for you when it comes to wood work.
However, they won’t be needed at all if the
lumber yard is cutting your plywood for
you. Still, having a jigsaw will be great for
the brace if you plan to do a full top brace!
Clamps/guides: Using clamps can prove to be hugely

beneficial when building a plywood aquarium. I always want
to say these are mandatory, but you can get by without them, I
112
know I have. They simply make the job a lot easier. There is a
massive selection to choose from but my favorite is the
traditional style quick release clamp. Costs on these vary
greatly.
Environment: Canopies are simple and easy to build.

You won’t need a lot of room or special needs to complete this
project. Having everything you need close by will save you
some frustration though.
Building the canopy:

Building the canopy will be remarkably easy, especially if
you had the plywood cut up for you at the lumber yard. If not,
using your table saw will make short work of it.
This project is so simple, that it will only take 5 steps!
Step 1:
Determine how tall you want your canopy. You can go as
tall or as short as you would like to. Keep in mind that it will
have to remain a functional height. Too short and you will
have a hard time getting into the aquarium. Too tall and it
starts to look…..weird.
I like to use a height of 8-12” depending on what I need.

So we cut the pine boards accordingly. However, there is
only one thing to consider. Whatever thickness you are using
for the plywood, we want to subtract off the length of the
board. For example, if you are using ½” plywood and you
want a canopy that is 8” tall, you would need to only cut the
board to 7.5” long.
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Once cut, you can put them in each corner and see if you
like that height.
Step 2:
The pine boards act as not only the support system, but
also the guides for the plywood.
The plywood for the front panel of the canopy should be
the height of the canopy itself. Do not minus the width of the
plywood like we did for the supports. For example, if you
want an 8” tall canopy and the pine boards are 7.5” (because
of the previous step) then the panel needs to be 8” as well.
This makes the pine boards look too short, but you will see
why in the next step.
The length of the front panel needs to be the length of the

tank plus the thickness of the plywood X2. So on a 48” long
tank, and if we use ½” plywood, we would need to make sure
the panel is 49” long. Adding an extra ¼” to the length will
give you some wiggle room.
Now for aesthetics I suggest making the front panel tall
enough so that it will cover the aquarium trim and hide it.
The side panels get cut the same height as the front panel.
They also get cut to the width of the tank exactly.
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Now we put it together. Lay the side panel down and
glue/screw the supports to the 2 corners of the side panel,
drilling pilot holes first. Lay the boards flat on the plywood to
do this. Before screwing them in, make sure they are
positioned correctly. Insure the pine boards are ½” from the
top as planned.
Finally, glue/screw the front panel on.
Dry fit it onto your aquarium to insure it fits!
Step 3:
Now we have a good idea of what the canopy will look
like. It still needs a top and doors though.
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In this step we can put the top on. This simply gets
screwed into the top of the supports. The top will slide right in
and be hidden from side/front view by the front/side panels
giving it a sleeker look. This is why we left the space.
Now there may end up being bowing of the top with
thinner plywood, so to prevent that, you can simply use a long
pine board the length of the tank and screw it into the top
panel length wise. After the top is on, screw that brace to the
side panels as well.
During this step, we will also want to cut out access holes.
Choose how you want your door(s) and cut the hole out 1”
smaller all around than the planned door size.
Step 4:
With the holes cut out, we can install the doors. Using
whatever style hinges you prefer.
You can install the doors so that they swing open, or lift up.
The doors can be made from cutting panels out of plywood, or
you can purchase cabinet quality doors. Whichever you pick,
insure they overlap the holes. Going by at least 1” is typically
what I do.
Now it’s starting to look like something!
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Step 5:
Now we want it to match the stand. So whatever you
stained/paint the stand with, do the same with the canopy.
Depending on the quality of
the wood, you may need to use Pro tip #16
a wood filler and sand paper to
sand the canopy down prior to Most people don’t know
painting. The wood filler will be when to brace their floors.
They also don’t know how
used for irregularities.
easy or cheap it really is.
Since the inside of the For $150-250 you can add
canopy has an open back, there upwards of 20,000 pounds
will be plenty of ventilation to of additional floor
avoid protecting the inside. If support in about 10
minutes. Any floor should
you decide to cover the back as
really be considered to
well, some sort of protective give additional bracing
coating will be needed. when considering 120+
Typically whatever you paint gallons on the second
the outside of the canopy will be floor.
good enough.
117
CHAPTER 3
Aquarium repair
Aquarium repair is a HUGE aspect of the hobby.
Aquariums that need repair might need to have scratches

removed, be resealed, patch a crack, or even taken apart and
rebuilt. You might even need to repair the brace. I want to
show you how to do this for the following reasons:
Ever buy a second hand tank? Got it for free or a really good
deal because it’s scratched up or even leaking? Maybe you
just have a really old tank that needs to be restored and
resealed. Removing scratches and knowing how to resealing
the aquarium is exactly what you will need to know to do it.
What about a cracked tank? Ever see one selling really

cheap because it is cracked? Or maybe you’re like me and
have cracked more tanks than you would like to admit! Again,
we need to know how to do this.
You might be able to simply patch the crack or need to

take the tank apart and replace the whole panel. So you need
to know how to do that as well.
In this chapter, I intend to show you not only how to

repair your aquarium, but how to prevent it in the future as
well.
118
We will cover the following:
 removing scratches from glass and acrylic

aquariums
 Preventing scratches
 Resealing glass aquariums
 Preventing leaks
 Preventing cracks
Chapter 3, Part 1:
Removing scratches
So I have some good news and some bad news.
The good news is, most scratches can be removed. The
bad news is, not all of them can be. It will depend on what
material is scratched and how deeply.
For example, acrylic is a very soft material in comparison

to glass. Which means it will scratch more easily, but also
means any scratch can be removed. Glass on the other hand is
a different story. Glass is a hard material in comparison to
acrylic. Because of this, scratches on glass take a lot more
effort to remove and only certain scratches can be removed.
Preventing Scratches:
So now that we got the scratches out, and put in all that work,
let’s consider why they got there in the first place. We did it!
We manually scratched the tank ourselves. Generally
speaking, there are very little fish out there that will be able to
scratch a tank.
119
The single most common reason an aquarium gets scratched it
due to 1 of the 3 most popular reasons.
 1: When cleaning it.

 2: When adding in decorations or rearranging them.
 3: When moving the aquarium.
1: The biggest thing you can do to prevent scratching your

aquarium to AVOID using a magnetic aquarium scrubber.
These are fantastic for cleaning the inside panels of your
aquarium, but the most common reason a tank gets scratched!
Regardless of the substrate you are using, something
ALWAYS gets caught in-between the magnet and aquarium
panel. What makes it worse? You don’t know until it is too
late! Not to mention, a fresh scratch is barely noticeable. It
will take a few days for it to appear. Some algae, bacteria or
debris will collect in the scratch making it visible for the first
time. Ever wonder how that scratch got there? Well, you did it
a few days ago and just couldn’t see it then.
Best way to avoid this? Get your hands wet! Use a soft
cloth to wipe down the inside of your tank. Of use a scrubber
that is on a hand held pole so you can see if there is any debris
caught against the glass. If you need to, use a new razor blade
to get the areas with built up calcium deposits.
Also consider this: Why do you have so much algae building
up in the first place? There is no reason you should have to do
this so often. Consider what is going on I your aquarium that
you can fix that could lead to less algae growth.
2: Be more cautious when adding in new decorations! It

doesn’t take much to scratch a tank. GO SLOWLY! It’s not a
race! If you want to try out different layouts of the tank and
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need to keep moving things around, get some painters tape and
tape out the foot print of the tank on the floor. Place
decorations inside the perimeter of the tape to get an idea what
it would look like inside the tank! This will help you
completely avoid scratches from rearranging the tank or
changing the layout. OR at the very least, cut down on
scratches a lot.
3: When moving the tank, wrap it up in a sheet and tape

the sheet on! Scratches don’t just come from when you bang
into something. Maybe you rubbed up against a wall, or
someone had a ring on and scratched it that way. The sheet
wrapped around the whole tank will give you an easy way to
provide a layer of protection!
Removing scratches from glass:
So before you waste your time on trying to remove a

scratch from a glass aquarium that won’t come out no matter
what you try, let’s talk about what you can remove. A simple
test is all that is needed. This will tell you if you can remove it
or not.
With your finger nails, run you nail over the scratch (as if you
are trying to scratch it yourself). Run your nail perpendicular
to the scratch and not parallel. Did your nail catch in the
scratch? If it did, we can’t remove it. Unfortunately we are
limited to removing only superficial scratches. If the front of
the aquarium is badly scratched, consider turning the aquarium
around and start using the back of the aquarium as the front.
This works well if the back is not scratched. It takes a lot of
effort to flip your tank around (draining, taking apart,
removing fish, etc…) but it’s worth it.
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OK, so we know if we can remove it or not in the first place.
Now we can move onto removing the scratches that can be
removed.
Here’s the worst part: The tank need to be empty!
Yup, you need to completely drain and dry the tank to make
this possible. Removing glass scratches is a messy job that
requires a lot of elbow grease. An empty tank will make the
job much easier on you and your fish.
Supplies:
 water
 cerium oxide
 buffing wheel with soft pad(sponge preferred)
Water: This speaks for itself. Ideally you will want to use
some filtered water free of impurities. So perhaps using
bottled water would be the best option here. Not a lot if
needed.
Cerium Oxide: This is an earth metal. It comes in the
form of a powder and is generally pretty common online to
purchase. We don’t need a lot of it if you are only removing a
few scratches.
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We will mix this with water and since cerium oxide will
not dissolve in water, the mixture becomes an abrasive fluid.
We will use this as a liquid sand paper! Cerium oxide and
water mixed together is often referred to as slurry.
Buffing wheel: This is a must. If you don’t have one,

can’t borrow one or buy one. Then this project is not for you.
Removing scratches from glass by hand is basically
impossible! Luckily, a cheap electric buffing wheel is under
$20 and actually comes in handy for other uses around the
house. (I change the pad on it and wax my car with it!) The
attachment we will want to use should be a sponge pad.
Usually this tool will come with various pads and a sponge
type is one of them. These buffing wheels spin at a high rate
of speed, making the job possible.
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Step 1:
Mix up the slurry. Combine 1 part cerium oxide to 2 parts

water.
Shake it up well. No, you will not be able to dissolve the

cerium oxide into the water, so constant shaking is needed.
Otherwise, the cerium oxide will keep settling at the bottom of
the bottle. Because of my need to keep shaking and to be able
to control the flow of the mixture out of the bottle, I used a
children’s “Sippy cup”. It works perfectly.
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Step 2:
Pour the mixture onto the scratch and start buffing it with the
buffing wheel. This will make a lot of splatter, so have a towel
nearby, or do this outside. Buffing time will depend on size of
scratch. I find a 4” scratch can take 5-10 minutes to remove.
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That is basically it! Keep buffing until the scratch is gone.
Then wipe clean. The amount of slurry used does not really
need to be a certain amount. The less you use, the less
effective it will be. The more you use, the more of a mess you
will make, but the faster it will buff the scratch out! So play
with the amounts and see what works best for you.
Here is a comparison from before. I used some sandpaper on a

new piece of glass to scratch it up. Below the tape is more
scratches. I also wrote my name on the other side to show im
not changing glass.
Here is the “after”. Notice the scratches that were above the
tape are gone. While under the tape is still hazy and untreated
(I did not buff under the tape to show a comparison)
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Removing scratches from acrylic:
Unlike glass, when it comes to acrylic, you can remove

any scratch.
To do so, some might consider it harder to do since there

are more steps, and more supplies. While other might find it
easier to do as you can actually do it by hand with no tools
needed. I would much rather remove scratches from an acrylic
tank then glass any day, as the results are basically
guaranteed!
The supplies used can vary depending on availability;

however using them all makes the job a lot easier having more
options.
Essentially, because acrylic is a relatively soft material,

removing scratches is done by sanding it. We use
progressively finer grit sand paper to slowly buff out the
scratches. We can even do it by hand.
Supplies:
 Wet/dry sandpaper
 Novus 1,2 and 3
 Water
 Microfiber cloth
Wet/dry sandpaper: We don’t want to melt the acrylic,

so keeping it wet while sanding is a must. In order to do this,
we must use wet/dry sandpaper which allows us to keep the
surface wet as we sand. Any brand is fine, however we will
need the following grits: 2000, 1000, 800 and 400. The
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smaller the number, the more course the sandpaper.
Depending on how many scratches you have will depict how
much paper you will need.
Novus 1, 2 and 3: This is optional. While not needed, I

like to use it to “polish” the acrylic. It works similar to cerium
oxide that we use on glass, in that it is an abrasive liquid.
Sometimes, this is all that is needed for superficial scratches.
If you can get your fingernail into the scratch, you will also
need to use sandpaper first. As you can see from the photo,
they are used for different purposes. We will be using 3 then 2
then 1. With 1 being completely optional as it is only used as a
“clean and shine”.
Water: Water will be needed to keep the surface of the

acrylic wet so we don’t cause any melting. We won’t need a
lot, but again, using filtered water will be beneficial. I like to
buy a 500ml bottle of water for this job.
Microfiber cloth: Microfiber cloth wont scratch acrylic.

We will use this for both clean up in-between sandpaper grits
and to apply the novus.
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Step 1:
Starting with the lowest number sand paper (400 grit),
pour a small amount of water on the scratch and start sanding
the area in circular motions. We want to overlap the scratch,
and sanding more that you think is needed is fine.
Personally, I like to “dip” the sand paper in water ever so

often to keep it wet.
We continue sanding until we have evenly sanded the

surface and can no longer see the scratch that was there. You
will be a bit worried that you just ruined the tank with sanding
it down, but this is exactly what we want.
Now with the scratch actually gone, our new intention is

to remove all of the sanding scratches we just created.
So we move onto the next grit. (800).
We do exactly what we did in the first step, and evenly

sand down the entire surface. In-between grits, I like to wipe
the surface down with a wet microfiber cloth so I get a good
idea of how well I sanded.
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Again, we keep moving up in grit number. 400 to 800 to
1000 to 2000 grit.
Step 2:
Once we have finished sanding with the 2000 grit paper
and wiped the surface clean, you will notice the original
scratch is now gone. In most cases, this is all you need to do.
Sometimes however, there may be a slight haze left on the
acrylic that you will want to remove as well.
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This is where the “Novus” is used. It works really well in
removing haze from plastics.
We start off with Novus 3. This is a thicker paste. We
pour a enough on to complete the task and start buffing with a
clean microfiber cloth in circular motions.
Continue to buff until the paste is worked in. The longer

you buff the better.
Once you have buffed in the novus 1, you can remove the
excess with a clean cloth and some water.
Next up is the Novus 2. We apply it and buff it in the
same fashion as the novus 1.
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Again, the longer you buff it in the better.
Finally, your scratches are gone! You will be amazed at

just how well this process has worked for you.
Now to give the acrylic the original shine it once had, we

can apply novus 3. Not only does this give it a nice shine, but
it also provide a bit of protection.
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Again, we apply this in the same way we did the other
numbers, but make sure you use a clean cloth.
Novus 3 comes out like water. Not a lot is needed, nor is a

lot of buffing needed. We want to apply it as if we are
cleaning the acrylic. Add a bit on, and rub it in. That’s it.
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Again, I wanted to give a before and after example. So I
scratched up the acrylic and then taped over half of it to show
a side by side.
This was before:
This was after:
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So again, removing scratches from acrylic is a LOT easier
than one might think. It simply requires more supplies to do
so. As you can see though, the results are worth the effort!
Chapter 3, Part 2:
Resealing glass aquariums
So your aquarium formed a leak, or you think it might
start leaking. You simply don’t trust the seam. What now?
Resealing an aquarium is one of the most over rated projects
to do in the hobby. Most people will over complicate it to the
point of it seaming rather difficult. Meanwhile, after you
reseal your first aquarium you will most likely say: “That was
easier than I thought it would be”.
Simply put, it is easy.
Essentially, we only need to remove the existing silicone

on the inside of the tank that is exposed. We are not removing
the silicone in between the actual panes. We then replace that
removed silicone with a fresh seal. Yes, it’s that simple.
Obviously, you will want to know when resealing is

needed. We will talk about that in the next section, but
obviously if the tank is leaking, a reseal is needed. So let’s
take a look at how to do it.
Supplies needed:
 Silicone and caulking gun
 Razor blades
 Painters tape
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Silicone: Obviously you need
silicone. As usual, I recommend
aquarium safe. I always personally
use GE silicone I, window and
door. A caulking gun is also a
HUGE asset and makes the job a
lot easier. How much is needed? 1
large tube per 50 gallons should do
it.
Razor blades: A hand held razor blade scraper will make

the world of difference. A huge piece
of advice I would like to give here is
that you can NEVER have too many
razor blades! Get 1 razor blade for
EACH seam! For any tank, at least 8
blades will be needed. A new razor
blade used on each seam will make
removing the existing silicone a breeze.
Painters tape: Painters tape is used to

make sure your job is ‘neat”. Use this for at
least your first reseal. It will help make the
seams look like they originally did.
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Step 1:
Have all supplies on hand. Drain the tank completely and
dry it out. Make sure the area is well ventilated.
Step 2:
Remove the top trim. Removing the top trim makes the
job a lot easier. It is generally not needed, but again makes it
easier to get in and around the tank. Usually a top trim is just
for aesthetics and only held on with a thin strip of silicone, if
any at all. Most times, the trim and be slowly pulled off. If not,
the silicone can be cut with a razor. If the trim also serves as a
brace (forms a brace down the middle of the tank) then it is
held on with a LOT more silicone and requires a lot more
effort to remove than its worth. Most times, it’s easier to
simply keep it on.
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Step 3:
We can now move onto remove the silicone from the
inside of the tank. We use our hand held razor to do so.
Special care must be taken to insure the blade does NOT slide
into the actual seams of the glass panels. We only want to
remove what is exposed.
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By sliding the blade tightly against the glass, we can
easily remove the silicone. Replacing the blade on each seam
makes sure the blade stays its sharpest and removing the
silicone becomes much easier.
We not only want to remove the silicone, but the residue
it might leave behind as well. A new silicone does this just
fine, but if you are having problems with getting it all; you can
add a dab of acetone to a rag and rub off the residue. DO NOT
pout any acetone into the tank as it will also soften the seams.
Step 3:
With the silicone now removed, we can move onto the
adding in the painters tape. The painters tape will make sure
you have a “clean” look when done. We want to add tape to
each side of each seam. The gap needed to be left depends on
the thickness of the aquarium glass. If the tank is made from
6mm glass for example, you will want a 6mm gap on each
side of the seam.
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Allowing for the gap in between the tape will be your
guideline for new silicone. It also keeps thing “clean”
Notice the corners are not over lapping in tape either.

Take special care to insure you do not cover the corners.
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Step 4:
Now for the silicone!
We need to work pretty fast here as the silicone starts to
cure pretty quickly. For smaller tanks I like to apply the
silicone all at once, then come back and smooth it all out at the
same time. For larger tanks (4 foot long tanks+) I will do one
seam at a time. Applying the silicone then smoothing out one
seam at a time.
Wearing protective gloves will keep your hands clean

during the process as well, and is generally recommended for
your first reseal.
How much silicone to apply depends on the thickness of

the glass. For the seal, I like to apply ½ - ¾ the thickness of
the glass panel in silicone. For example, if the glass is ½”
thick, I will apply a bead that is around ¼” thick.
Once the silicone is applied, we smooth it out with our

finger. It is ok to overlap the tape, as this is what it is for.
You MUST move quickly, as the silicone will start to “skin”
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quickly, forming a cured layer on top of the silicone making it
impossible to smooth out.
Step 5:
As soon as you are done smoothing out the silicone,
remove all of the tape. DO NOT wait for it to cure with the
tape on.
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The tape has allowed you to create a very clean seam!
Now allow your tank to cure for at least 24 hours and it

will be good as new! Fill it back up and monitor it for leaks
for at least 3-7 days. If it no longer leaks, set it back up!
Preventing leaks:
Preventing leaks and knowing when to reseal, is just as

important as knowing how to reseal. Perhaps even more
important.
There are 3 main reasons a tank will leak:

 Age of the silicone
 How the tank was stored
 Something forcing the seams apart
All are simple to recognize and even prevent.

First and foremost, any glass aquarium should be resealed
after 10 years of age. If it leaks or not, resealing it at this time
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will insure you get another 10 years out of it. Obviously the
appearance of the silicone will be a big tell as well. If it is no
longer sticking in places, has air bubbles in it, or a ton of algae
is growing under the seam, reseal it.
If buying the tank second hand, ask if the tank has ever
been stored outside. Depending on your location and how cold
or hot it gets outside, this may cause a problem with the
silicone itself. Cold weather can cause the seams to eventually
leak (causing the silicone to sometimes shrink or just become
brittle). In fact, if stored outside in the winter months, the tank
will leak eventually almost every time. Hot weather can
sometimes do the same (softening the silicone)
If the tank has been stored outside, don’t risk it. Reseal
the tank.
The last most common leak cause is the stand itself. If the
stand is not flat and true, it could cause the tank seams to
twist, pulling the seams apart and eventually leak. Always
insure your stand is flat and true. Being level does not stop the
tank from twisting. Level is not enough. Insure all four sides
of the tank are touching the stand when EMPTY.
Adding a ½” - ¾” sheet of Styrofoam can sometimes help

alleviate twisting by absorbing the irregularities of the stand.
Sometimes, the seam might be so bad that you need to

take the tank apart completely and rebuild it. This is
sometimes the case when the silicone in-between the glass is
damaged. You will notice the silicone turning white when this
happens (a sign it is pulling apart). A few air bubbles in the
seam is ok, but if the seam is plagued in them, it is time to take
the tank apart.
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We will cover taking tanks apart later on in this chapter.
Now you will notice we have not talked about resealing or

fixing the seams of an acrylic tank in this section at all. The
reason is simple; if built correctly, an acrylic aquarium doesn’t
actually have any seams. Because of the way it is put together
(welding), the seams are actually fused to become one piece.
Meaning there is no seam.
Chapter 3, Part 3:
Repairing cracks
A cracked aquarium is not the end of the world. However,
the remedy for a fix does depend on where it is cracked.
There are two main types of cracks: A crack on a side

panel and a crack in the bottom of the tank.
In this chapter we will cover:
 Preventing cracks
 Repairing cracks
Preventing cracks:
The easiest type of crack is if the bottom panel cracks.

If the bottom cracks, we need to do 3 things. We first
need find out why it cracked and either fix that issue first, or
put in some sort of safe guard to prevent it from happening
again.
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We then need to alleviate the stress that caused the crack.
Finally, we can fix it.
Figuring out why it cracked usually is due to one of 3

issues. Something fell in your tank and cracked it. The stand
was not a flat surface and caused the tank to twist and then
crack. OR something was under the glass and put pressure on
it enough to crack it. Even a small pebble can cause this.
So knowing if you tank has a flat surface or not is simple.

If you have an aquarium with a bottom trim, all sides and
corners will be touching the stand when the tank is EMPTY.
Do not judge this when full as the tank can twist and settle
with all side touching.
If the stand is flat it might have been something falling in

the tank. It will be more than obvious if that was the issue.
Finally, something might be stuck under the tank like a

small pebble that caused the crack. This will only be possible
if the tank does not have a bottom trim that elevates the
bottom panel off the surface.
If it was the stand, fix it. Take the stand apart and build it
again if needed.
If a rock or something fell and caused the crack, then

remove everything from the tank, including the substrate.
Once you patch the crack, lay some lighting diffuser on the
bottom of the tank and then your substrate over it. This will
take the impact if something were to fall again. Reconsider
your layout as well and consider cementing your rock work
together if that was the problem.
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Patching cracks:
Supplies needed:
 Silicone (for glass aquarium)

 Weld-on 16 (for acrylic aquarium)
 6mm glass (for glass aquarium)
 6mm Acrylic (for acrylic aquarium)
So we now know how to find out why it cracked and how to

prevent it from happening again. Now we can move onto
patching the crack.
Step 1:
If you tank has a bottom trim on it, you will know that the
bottom pane of glass floats. Since we are not actually going to
replace that bottom piece, we need to support that bottom pane
so it can no longer sag.
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We will need a piece of Styrofoam that is the same
thickness as the lip of the brace We will want to place this
Styrofoam inside the lip and it will need to be the same size as
the bottom pane.
If your stand does not have any center support and is an

open top, you will have the support it then add a sheet of
plywood over it. Sit the tank in place with the Styrofoam
under it, and then move to patching it.
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Step 2:
The patch only needs to be another sheet of gla
ss cut to a size that will overlap the crack. With enough
silicone, simply place the new piece of glass over the crack. 6
mm glass is what I like to use for any size crack. Let it cure
for 24 hours and your set.
Apply a liberal amount of silicone or weld-on the patch

piece.
Press firmly down to insure no bubbles are trapped.

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Smooth out side edges with finger.
The end result: Well, since the crack is now supported

from under the tank, it can no longer flex and pull apart. With
the patch over the crack, it can no longer leak.
If you tank does not have a brace and the bottom pane
simply sits on the stand, then insure you have Styrofoam down
to absorb any irregularities in the stand, then move right to the
patching of the crack.
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You can also simply replace the whole panel, but the
costs will be much more, and much more labor intensive. Both
will yield the same result, and no one will know which one
you did as it will be covered in substrate anyways. I prefer the
patch, as it’s easier, cheaper and just as good as replacing.
Now, what if the side front or back panel cracks? Well,

We need to replace the whole panel. The reason being is
simple. Not only will it be ugly, and there is no hiding it, but it
also won’t last. The pressure being put on these panels is too
great for a patch. You have to replace the panel.
We need to take the whole tank apart to replace a panel,

and doing so is not that difficult. In the next section we will
look at how to do that.
Given the fact that you would have to buy a whole new
panel, and the labor that goes into replacing it, you might want
to simply compare those costs to what it would cost to replace
the whole aquarium. Unfortunately sometimes that might be
the best route.
Now you will notice that we concentrated on glass in this

section. Acrylic tanks are the same. However, instead of
silicone and glass as the patch, we use weld-on 16 and acrylic!
Using the same methods and steps.
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Chapter 3, Part 4:
Taking apart and rebuilding
Taking your aquarium apart might be a reality you must face
at some point.
There are a few main reasons you might want to take an

aquarium apart.
 The tank needs to be reassembled due to bad seams.

 A viewing panel is cracked and needs to be replaced.
 You want the glass for another project.
The fact of the matter is this: It is easier to take apart a

large aquarium than it is to take apart a small aquarium. Why?
The seams in a large aquarium are wider! More silicone is put
into the seams leaving enough of a gap to get a razor blade in!
Smaller tanks are generally so tightly put together, that a razor
blade simply will not fit into the seam, making it a tough tank
to take apart.
With that said, I’m going to show you the easiest way to
take aquariums apart no matter what size they are.
Supplies needed:
 Razor blades
 Acetone
The more razor blades you have, the better!

Acetone will help remove any residue left behind.
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Step 1:
Remove the trim. Removing the trim on both the top and
bottom is where you need to start. Generally this is an easy
task as they are rarely held on with much silicone. If you do
find yours is on too snug, don’t pull too hard as you might
break the trim or even crack the tank.
I like to slide razor blades under it a few times on either side
of the glass to help cut some of the silicone holding it down.
Step 2:
Start off by removing as much silicone from the inside

seams as possible. Using a razor blade like we used in
resealing an aquarium will be needed to make the job much
easier.
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Step 3:
Turn the tank upside down! This is by far the easiest way
to take apart an aquarium, from the bottom up!
Taking out one pane just to replace it is not enough. Old

silicone and new silicone do not adhere well to each other, so
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taking apart the entire aquarium is needed no matter if you
need to replace just one pane, or rebuild the entire tank.
With the tank upside down, we will want to remove the

bottom panel first before any other panel. To do this, we
simply continuously run a razor blade down the seams,
separating the silicone. The bottom panel always has the most
silicone applied to it, and this allows for a razor blade to slip
right into the seam.
Step 4:
With the bottom panel removed, the rest is a slower
process, but still easy. With larger tanks, the panels can be
removed by simply sliding the razor down the sides,
separating the silicone. However, make sure you hold the
panel you are cutting loose, so it doesn’t fall over.
For smaller tanks, razor blades simply won’t fit in the

seam, and this is why we removed the bottom panel first.
If you hold onto a front left corner, and a back right

corner and LIGHTLY squeeze them together, you will notice
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there is a small amount of give. The glass panels will move.
This is your in.
When doing this, run the razor blade in the seam that is pulling
apart. (Seams you are not putting pressure on)
Then do the opposite corners.
Repeat this process several times with a small amount of

squeezing pressure each time. Eventually, the panels come
apart!
Step 5:
With the panels apart, it is now time to clean them up and

get them ready to be reassembled. With a new razor blade,
scrape off as MUCH off the left over silicone as possible.
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You will notice that a residue is left behind. This is when
we use some acetone and a rag to get the rest. There is no fear
of using too much acetone at this point.
The acetone soaked rag will make short work of the
silicone residue. Any wet glass from the acetone will
evaporate in seconds.
Now your tank is apart, the glass is cleaned and you are
ready to put it back together! Follow the instructions in
chapter 1 to do so!
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CHAPTER 4
How to brace your floor
Ever wonder if your floor will even hold your aquarium?
We have all heard this before: “I want to place my
aquarium on the second floor, will the floor hold it?”
The fact of the matter is this:
A floor can hold a tremendous amount of weight, but

there are some things to consider.
When placing an aquarium on a second floor that does not

have additional bracing, then you have to place it along a
supporting wall across as many floor joists as you can. What
does this mean? We need to place the tank along a wall that
touches the outside. Meaning, directly on the other side of the
wall is the outdoors.
That is about the best you can do. You can easily get
away with a 90 gallon tank that way. Even up to 120 gallon in
a low traffic area.
After that, you are left with 2 options. Pay a specialist

come and have a look at what you want to do. Or just jump to
bracing the floor as he might recommend that anyways.
When should you consider bracing? Anything over 120

gallons deserves to be considered. Anything under, and you
can just place it along a supporting wall across the floor joists
as mentioned above.
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Bracing the floor is not that difficult. In fact, you can do it
in 3 steps. The first is gathering supplies:
 supplies
 Installing a load distributing support
 Installing the braces
Supplies:
You will need:
 A couple of 4x4’s (depending on length of tank)

 #12 6” deck screws
 Supports
4X4’s: You will need a 4X4 to act as

the load distributer. These should cost under
$10 for an 8 foot piece.
#12 6” deck screws: You won’t need many of these. You

only need enough to hold the 4x4 up. These are not cheap and
will cost upwards of $0.50 each.
Supports: These come in a variety of

style and strengths. They will typically
average $50-100 a piece yet have the
ability to support 5,000-10,000 pounds.
These are a metal floor support and found
at most hardware stores.
159
The first thing you will want to do is locate your floor
joists and which way they are running. In an unfinished
basement, they will look something like this:
Step 1:
You need to be able to get to the floor joists, so you may
have to rip the drywall down in the area directly below where
you want the tank.
You will want to run a 4x4 the entire length of the tank,
right down the middle of it.
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We will screw this in place with our deck screws. This
4x4 is going to help distribute the weight of the tank along the
floor joists. It offers no support as is, so we need to move onto
the next step.
Step 2: Add in your floor supports and jack them in place

tightly. They all work differently, so simply follow the
instructions they come with.
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That’s it! It’s not that difficult at all. Afterwards you can
replace the drywall in the ceiling if needed. To hide the
supports, you can turn them into pillars (covered in a nice
wood or drywall). You can also drill the supports into the floor
for added assurance. It’s typically not needed though.
This example support is rated for a load of 10-20,000 pounds

now. (Depending on style of support purchased) The total cost
will be $150-250. If you need more support, simply add in
another support system as shown above.
With this in place, you are guaranteed to be able to sleep at

night without worrying that your tank will come crashing
through the floor!
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CHAPTER 5
Filtration
Filtration is my favorite part of DIY. In fact, it’s my
favorite part of the hobby. Filtration is equivalent to popping
the hood on a sports car to see what makes it tick.
Most people will often not give filtration the attention it

deserves.
I look at it this way:
Filtration is the life support system for your aquarium.
 Filtration is the heart of your system. Circulating the

water throughout the entire aquarium.
 Filtration is the lungs of your system. Delivering
oxygen to your aquarium.
 Filtration is the liver of your system. Removing and
filtering out harmful compounds from your system.
Obviously, the filtration system is what facilitates the

nitrogen cycle.
So we can even take this view a step further and state that
we don’t keep fish, we keep bacteria. The fish simply feed our
bacteria. In fact, there is more life in your filter than will ever
be in your aquarium.
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You see, the nitrogen cycle is the single most important
aspect of the hobby. Period. Without it, we would not be able
to keep fish much longer than a couple of days without
changing the water 100% a couple times a day. Without it, the
fish would die of ammonia poisoning within a very short time
frame.
So if we realize just how important filtration is and give

the nitrogen cycle the
attention it deserves, your Pro tip #17
hobby will be a lot easier.
The hobby is simply over
A lot of the time, we whelmed with marketing.
worry about what the fish When it comes to filtration,
need to survive. We often way more focus is put on
how many gallons of water
overlook what the bacteria it can flow and the tank size
need to survive. Just like fish, it can handle, rather than
they do better in an ideal its media capacity. A filters
environment. There is no true capacity lies in how
point to building a filter if many fish it can support,
not how large of an
you are not aware what the aquarium it will filter.
bacteria require, or how they
will perform in different
types of filtration.
In this chapter I will not only show you how to build

various filters, but WHY and HOW they actually work.
We will take a look at the various methods of filtration,

and what you should know about each style. With this
information, you will be able to make a much better education
decision when it comes to providing filtration for your
aquarium.
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Every go into a store to buy a filter, and they are all rated
by how many gallons they can filter in an hour? This seems to
be the way all filters are labeled.
For example, you might see a canister filter stating it

filters 350GPH and rated for 100 gallons. With the media
capacity is less than a gallon. 100 gallons of what!?!? Water
obviously, but does this mean no matter what I stock the tank
with, this filter will handle it?
Then we see a hang on the back filter rated for 500GPH

and states it will filter up to 100 gallons as well, but holds half
the filtration media as the canister we just looked at.
Does this make ANY sense?? NO.
So if we look at the reasoning here, we can say that if we

increase the flow of the filter, we don’t need as much media.
This is absolutely incorrect.
We are going to break this chapter down into a 6 sections.
1. Know your bacteria

2. Types of filtration and best media for them
3. How much media is really needed
4. Flow rates and Sizing your filter
5. Building filters
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Chapter 5, Part 1:
Know your bacteria
So let’s look at some basic facts here.
Nitrification is the biological removal (oxidation) of

ammonia (NH4+) by certain bacteria in the presence of
oxygen.
This group of bacteria is called “nitrifiers” or “nitrifying

bacteria” or “nitrification bacteria”.
Nitrification will occur in the presence of ammonia.

Ammonia is present in any aquarium with live animals in it.
Ammonia is highly toxic and the number one killer in home
aquariums.
The bacteria Nitrosomonas oxidises ammonia into nitrite as a

metabolic process.
The bacteria Nitrobacter oxidises nitrite into nitrate as a

metabolic process.
Ok, so we know now the bacteria responsible for the

nitrogen cycle, and what they do.
BUT, what do they need?
They will need a source of ammonia obviously.
We provide that with our fish waste and other organic

compounds in the aquarium.
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In order to process the ammonia, the bacteria
requirements are:
 7.2 mg/l of alkalinity is needed to remove 1 mg/l of

ammonia
 4.6 mg/l or ppm O2 needed for every ppm of ammonia
ilicone (4.6 lbs. of oxygen is needed to remove 1 lb.
of ammonia)
 Dissolved oxygen levels of < 200 mg/l. However,
nitrification can proceed at higher.
 PH between 7.6 and 8.2 is ideal, but not totally
necessary. .
Ok, so we can take from this that the nitrification process

has basic requirements.
However, what can stop it?
 Toxicity in form of toxic chemicals and heavy metals

(0.25 mg/l or higher).
 Septicity and associated sulfides (H2S, etc.) and
organic acids.
 Excessive ammonia (ammonia toxicity) 400-500
mg/l+.
 Low Temperatures – Nitrification ceases at <5 ˚C
 Low Dissolved Oxygen < 0.5 mg/l, with 2-3 mg/l
being ideal for efficient Ammonia removal.
 Low pH/alkalinity, with nitrification ceasing at a pH of
< 5.0.
 Nitrifying bacteria will die at 32° F (0° C).
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 Nitrifying bacteria will die at 120° F (49° C)
 Chlorine and Chloramines
What can we do to provide ideal conditions?
 The temperature for optimum growth of nitrifying

bacteria is between 77-86° F (25-30° C).
 The optimum pH range for Nitrosomonas is between
7.8 – 8.0.
 The optimum pH range for Nitrobacter is between 7.3-
7.5
 Maximum nitrification rates will exist if dissolved
oxygen (DO) levels exceed 80% saturation.
 Nitrifying bacteria are photosensitive, especially to
blue and ultraviolet light. After they have colonized a
surface this light poses no problem.
 Nitrifiers are slow-growing organisms with
Nitrosomonas doubling every 8 hours and Nitrobacter
every 12 hours under ideal conditions.
So we now know a tremendous amount of information

often over looked or not even talked about in the hobby.
Most are more worried about providing ideal conditions

for the fish, that we tend to forget to provide ideal conditions
for the bacteria first.
With this information, we can keep this in mind while

building the filter:
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 Filter must provide able oxygen
 Filter must be kept dark for at least a week while
cycling
 Water conditions must be kept in the ideal ranges.
 Filter must contain enough surface area for the bacteria
to cultivate on.
The first 3 will be pretty simple. However, the last part is

the most important. HOW MUCH MEDIA DO I NEED?
We will get to that soon.
Pro tip #18
This question often comes
up in the hobby: What is the There is no such thing as
best filter media? “the best type of media”, as
not all media perform the
same in different situations
Well, to answer that with and methods of filtration.
a short answer; there isn’t one. There is only such thing as
“best media for the job”.
Why? It all depends on Don’t buy into bio logical
media hype. Buy into the
how the application of the facts of bacteria and how it
media. While there are better reacts in different situations
styles of filtration than others, of filtration.
it will really come down to
what you need as well as what
will be most practical. Some medias simply do not work well
in certain styles of filtration. So really, it does not come down
to which media is best, but how we use it.
First, let’s look at the most popular methods of filtration.
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Chapter 5, Part 2:
Types of filtration and best media for them
These can be broken down into 3 classes in which
describe the state of the media:
 Submerged
 Emerged
 Fluidized
Submerged:
Submerged media style filters are by far the most popular.
Filters with submerged media would be filters like Canisters,

hang on the backs, internal filters and even some sump styles.
Because the media is submerged, the water will be in full

contact with the media at all times. Now this will mean that
you would need less media those other types of filtration due
to this fact.
However, in a submerged state, low oxygen zones can

form quickly and even clogging can occur, meaning that less
media actually has contact with the water.
Over all however, less media is simply needed. This style

tends to be more popular on aquariums 100 gallons or less.
The best media for this style would certainly be ceramic

or sintered glass media. Due to the high surface area and
relative small size, this is perfect for the small spaces in
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submerged media style filters. I do not think any brand is
better than the next as they are really pretty much all the same.
Aim for a small media that is extremely porous. The down
side is they will deteriorate eventually and need to be replaced,
but that takes years.
Submerged filter media tends to require the most attention

and maintenance.
Emerged:
Pro tip #19
Emerged media filters come
in second for popularity. You will notice
activated carbon is not
mentioned once in this
They would be far more book. On the topic of
popular if it wasn’t for their sheer filtration, activated
size and special needs to get the carbon is the biggest
water to them. waste of money in the
hobby. Unless you are
removing medication or
Emerged filter media simply tannins from the water,
means it is suspended above the it simply is just taking
water with aquarium water up space that the more
pouring over it. important biological
media could be using.
Now due to this style, it
makes it extremely efficient at
delivering oxygen to the oxygen loving bacteria.
The down side is it is impossible to have full water

contact with the media. Meaning, to insure we have enough
surface area for the bacteria to grow on and to avoid clogging
so that water does not channel, we need to use a larger size
media. SO the overall size of the filter increases.
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However, this is typically worth it and more popular on
aquariums that are 100+ gallons in size.
The best media for this type of application is plastic bio-

balls. They retain their shape and do not compact. The also
create large open areas for the water to flow thru so it doesn’t
channel. No brand is really better than the other here as well. I
like to get 1” bio-balls made by whoever sells them cheapest.
They are plastic and last forever, so you only have to buy them
once.
Emerged media doesn’t tend to need much maintenance at all.
Fluidized:
Fluidized filters are making a huge impact on the hobby

in the last few years. Personally, they are my favorite, and for
good reason.
A fluidized filter works just how it sounds. It fluidizes the

media.
So what’s that mean? Well, as the media is fluidizing

within the filter, it is all bumping into each other. What
happens then is all of the old bacteria is knocked off and only
the youngest and strongest bacteria’s remain.
As a result, the media itself needs no maintenance and it

becomes the most efficient style of filter you can have.
The fluidization not only harbors the strongest possible

bacteria, but also promotes that crucial gas exchange the
bacteria needs.
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The down side is that if not carefully monitored, these
bacteria can strip the water of all oxygen and the fish will
drown. This is rare, and usually will only happen in extremely
high stocking situations with very high temperatures (the
higher the water temp, the less ability it has to hold oxygen)
The best filter media for this would be a media that is

neutrally buoyant and small.
The small size will mean you can pack more into an area, the
neutrally buoyant state will mean that once bacteria starts to
attach themselves to the media, it will fluidize easily.
K1 Kaldness would be the best media for this job.
These style filters can be practical on literally any size

aquarium.
Chapter 5, Part 3:
How much media is really needed?
Well, the only thing that matters here is how much
bacteria will be needed to live on the media, to support the
amount of ammonia being produced.
This is a hard number to figure out as we mentioned

earlier, there are so many variables that affect the efficiency of
the bacteria.
Not to mention, the environmental effects put onto the

fish will affect its metabolism rate, which in turn affects their
ammonia production.
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So we need to find a common rule of thumb that can be
used as the staple to calculate how much filter media will be
needed to house the bacteria. So this is what I have always
done with great success.
On average, we feed our fish upwards of 3% of its body

weight.
I have found that based on those feedings, I needed

certain amounts of media.
I have found the Pro tip #20

following:
The single most important
 A fluidized media can aspect of the hobby is the
nitrogen cycle. That is a
handle 3 grams of fact. Not only learning it,
waste per liter of media but understanding it will
in 24hrs. prove to be the most
important thing you learn
 A submerged media in your entire time in the
can handle upwards of hobby. While it is certainly
not the most interesting
9 grams of waste per aspect, it truly is what your
liter of media in 24hrs. fish depend on you to know.
 An emerged media can
handle 4 grams of waste per liter of media in 24hrs.
I have also found the following for stocking levels:

 A gallon of water can support up to 10 grams of fish
with proper filtration.
SO, knowing what we know now, we just have to find out

how much our fish weigh.
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A fish weighs about 10 grams per cubic inch.
Multiply the length X width X height of the fish.
SO for example; a fish that is 12”X2”X4”, like an Oscar

for example. This equals 96 cubic inches. This would then
amount to 960 grams. (A little more than 2 pounds)
So using the stocking level suggestion, a full grown Oscar

belongs in a 90-100 gallon aquarium. This is accurate.
Also, feeding him 3% of its body weight would mean 29

grams of waste.
Knowing all of this, we can now state that this fish would
need one of these amounts of media:
10 liters of fluidized media

Or 6 liters of emerged media
Or 3 liters of submerged media
That rule of thumb and example works out very well. For
a bit of a safety factor however, we will add an addition 20%
media. While this might not work for every aquarium, it
certainly is a great guideline.
Chapter 5, Part 4:
Flow rates and sizing your filter
So we now know what bacteria need, we know what
stocking levels should roughly be, and we know how much
media we need for those stocking levels.
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How do we deliver it to the system though?
This is where flow rates come into play.
Flow rate means how fast we pump water threw the filter. We
measure this in gallons per hour and then calculate how many
times an hour the full aquarium water if filtered.
Depending on your style of filtration, this will change.
We need to consider contact time. If the flow is too fast,

the water might flow past the bacteria too fast. If it is too slow,
you won’t filter the water fast enough to keep up with
ammonia production. We also need to consider efficiency of
the filter. How fast the bacteria work.
Since a fluidized filter will process the ammonia the

fastest, we don’t need to pass the water threw the filter as
many time an hour. Usually 3-4Xs an hour is a good number.
An emerged filter is also very efficient. Working 25-50%

slower than a fluidized bed. So our flow rates there should be
closer to 5-6Xs per hour.
Submerged filters work the slowest, yet take up the least

amount of room. They typically require much faster flow rats.
7-8Xs an hour is typically ideal.
Now what about the saying: “You can never have too
much filtration”?
Is there any truth to that? Not really.
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Bacteria will only be present in numbers that the food
source allows for. Regardless of how much filtration you have,
it will mean nothing if the food source (ammonia) is simply
not being produced. Bacteria will only be in numbers that the
food source allows for. So while it is always good to have a bit
extra, there will come a point when you are truly just wasting
you money. That media and filtration will never be used.
There is also the concern with the flow created by too

much filtration. This could create a whirl pool in your
aquarium that your fish will certainly not appreciate.
Size your filter appropriately as per this chapter, while

adding an extra 25% to act as a safety net.
So now, given all of the information in this chapter, we

now know the following:
 How much fish our aquarium will hold

 How much media is needed to support those fish
 What the flow rate should be for those filters.
Chapter 5, Part 5:
Building filters
Building your own filtration system is a pretty simple
task, as long as you know why you are doing it and how it
works. The previous sections explain the why; this section will
explain the how.
Use this section to gather ideas from and modify if needed
to suit your own needs. This section should serve to inspire
more than anything else.
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We will take a look at how to build different types of
filters using the different methods of filtration. Only now, you
will be able to apply everything else you learned in this
chapter to them.
In this section, you can expect to learn how to do build

these types of filters:
Submerged filters:
 Internal power filters
 Internal air driven filters
 Canister filter
 Below tank sump filter
 Above tank sump filter
Emerged filters:
 Trickle tower
Fluidized filters:
 Sump fluidized bed
 Barrel fluidized bed
 Internal fluidized bed
Submerged filters
Internal power filter:
An internal power filter works on a very simple concept;

Water is drawn into the filter and mechanically and the
biologically filtered.
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We call it a “Power” filter as we are using a water pump
to draw water into the filter.
The concepts are simple and can be used to make several
different styles of power filters. Including:
 A full style which incorporates biological and

mechanical filtration
 A water polisher, meant only to polish the water
 A water skimmer, used to skim the surface of the water
These are the 3 types of

internal power filters we will Pro tip #21
cover. Coincidentally, they all
The internal power filter
use the same materials to build works not only as a full
them! time filter, but if the
power goes out, you can
simply hook it up to a
Supplies needed: battery powered air
pump and have it still
run while the power is
 Water bottle out.
 Filter floss
 Biological media
 Marineland Maxi-jet powerhead
 Something to drill the bottle with
Water bottle: Believe it or

not, we will be using a water bottle
for the next 3 projects. They are
easy to work with, non-toxic,
perfect shape, etc… Using a ribbed
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water bottle is best. In this project we are using a 500ml bottle
(1/2 liter). This means we also know the exact volume of the
filter to size it to our tank. You can use up to a 2L bottle if you
need to as the openings are the same size. This will be the
body of the filter.
Filter floss: Filter floss is

actually 100% polyester. It is often
sold in pet stores for up to $10 for
very small amounts; however I highly
suggest going to a fabric store and
buying a big bag of it for the same
cost. All you need to make sure of is
that it is 100% polyester and has no additives (anti-mildew,
etc…). Buy it in the sheets, not the loose fluff style. This will
serve as our pre filter. Also known as mechanical filter.
Bio-logical media: Given that we

are building a submerged filter, it is best
to use a ceramic type media. This is
commonly available at any pet store.
Typical costs are around $10 per pound,
which is about a ½ liter.
This will serve as the bio-logical media;
Used to facilitate the nitrogen cycle.
Marineland Maxi-jet powerhead:

This will be the pump for the filter.
Typically costing about $15-20
depending on the model. Sometimes
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more. The reason we use this brand is due to the inlet size and
design of the pump. You can use any brand you like.
Something to drill holes with: I prefer

to use a drill and drill bit, however, since
the plastic is so thin, you can pretty much
use anything that will actually pierce a hole
into it. We are looking to make at least ¼”
(6mm) holes.
FULL STYLE POWER FILTER

(Serves as a mechanical and biological filter)
This is an easy, cheap and very effective type of filter that

anyone can do. It is a full purpose filter that is used to not only
mechanically filter the water, but biologically as well.
Step 1:
Starting with the bottle, cut the bottom 1/3 off.
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Step 2:
Take the bottom of the bottle you just cut off and drill as many
holes in the bottom as you can. Inserting the bottle over a
piece of wood will give it some stability and make the job a lot
easier.
Step 3:
Fill that bottom half with polyester filling.
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Step 4:
Take the top of the bottle and insert the maxi-jet strainer. It
will be a tight fit and will stay in by itself.
Step 5:
Fill the top of the bottle with your biological media, and then
push the bottle together so that one overlaps the other.
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Step 6:
Insert strainer onto maxi-jet.
Step 7:
Place in aquarium upright (bottle pointing own) and secure in
place with suction cups that the pump comes with.
HOW THIS WORKS: The pump creates suction with

turned on. The water is drawn in threw the holes in the bottom
of the bottle, forcing it to be mechanically filtered through the
filter floss. The water then travels over the media where it is
biologically filtered. The water is the returned out of the top
of the pump.
Once a week or whenever needed, replace the filter floss.
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WATER POLISHER POWER FILTER
(Serves only as a water polisher)
This is another extremely simple filter. However, it is

only meant to be used as a water polisher. No biological
function is intended here.
Step 1:
Take your water bottle and cut the bottom portion off.
Insert the water bottle onto the maxi-jet strainer.
Step 2:
Insert your filter floss into the bottle.
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That’s it! Now put it in your tank and turn it on. Watch it
polish the water crystal clear. Run it continuously or whenever
you need it. Simply replace the filter floss when needed.
HOW IT WORKS: Water is drawn into the bottom of the

bottle, and forced threw the filter floss. In doing so, it
mechanically fine polishes the water. The water them exits the
pump and back into the aquarium.
WATER SKIMMER POWER FILTER
This next style filter is used to skim the surface of the

aquarium, removing proteins that accumulate at the surface.
This removes those proteins and in turn aids in gas exchange
at the surface of the aquarium, making the aquarium have
higher oxygen content.
Step 1:
Cut the bottom of the bottle off.
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Step 2:
Cut 1” notches into the bottom of the bottle. The notches
should not be wider than fish in your aquarium
The notches should be evenly spaced, and at least 1”

deep. Any less and it may not function. Any more is fine.
187
Step 3:
Slide bottle onto power head
Step 4:
Fill bottle half way with filter floss
Step 5:
Insert into aquarium with bottle facing upwards.
188
HOW IT WORKS: With the water bottle ½ “above the
water surface, this creates suction once the pump is turning on.
The surface of the water is then drawn into the filter and down
into the filter floss.
Because of the notches, your fish will not get sucked in

with it. The water is then return at the bottom of the filter.
Internal air driven filters

Pro tip #22
In this style, I will show you
couple of air driven internal Having a sponge filter
running in your main
filters. They work much in the tank along with your
same way as a power filter; normal filtration means
however instead of a water pump you have an extra cycled
they use an air pump. filter at any given time.
You can use it in a
hospital tank, quarantine
There are two main types tank, or even a fry tank.
that I will show you. Once uses a Having that back up filter
water bottle, the other uses PVC will come in handier than
pipe. you think.
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These are referred to as:
 Internal air powered filter

 Internal air powered sponge filter
SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR AIR POWERED FILTER:
 Air pump
 Air line
 Water bottle
 Sponge
The stronger the air pumps, the better this filter will work,
however you need a pump that will flow at least liter per
minute.
The sponge is just a basic filter replacement sponge that
you can find at any pet store.
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This entire build will cost you under $20
Step 1:
Drill a few holes in the water bottle cap. Drill them at
least ¼”around.
Step 2:
Drill a hole in the side of the bottle neck. This hole needs
to be slightly smaller than your air hose.
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Step 3:
Drill a hole in the side of the bottle. Large enough to

allow the nub on your suction cup to squeeze in. If you can no
find a suction cup at your local pet store, try your one off an
old heater or some other piece of equipment. You will also
need to drill a few holes near the bottom of the bottle.
Step 4:
Insert suction cup into the side of the bottle. This should
be a snug fit.
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Step 5:
Insert air hose into bottle neck where the hole was drill
slightly smaller than the diameter of the hose.
Step 6:
Fill the bottle with biological media. Place cap on bottle.
Then take your sponge, cut a hole in it and insert on the bottle
cap.
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Step 7:
Install in aquarium. Insure the bottle is upside down. Plug
in pump, and enjoy.
HOW IT WORKS:
The air being pumped into the bottle is what causes the
water to flow into the bottle. As the bubbles rise, they create
suction behind them. That suction sucks water threw the
sponge, into the bottle and up through the media. Allowing the
water to be both mechanical and biologically filtered, while
the bubbles rising and bursting at the surface create gas
exchange and circulation within the aquarium. Once a week,
we will want to rinse the sponge off.
SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR AIP POWERED SPONGE

FILTER:
 Air pump/airline/air stone
 Ceramic tile
 Large sponge
 PVC pipe
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 PVC end cap
 PVC elbow
 Silicone
Now this project we can use any size we want. It is a very

simple, cheap and extremely effective filter. Running costs are
low, and it lasts forever. This entire project will cost under
$20. However, if you run several off of the same air pump, the
cost per filter drops dramatically. This type of filter is what
most fish rooms are made of.
Step 1:
Silicone the PVC end cap to your tile. I used a ½” PVC
end cap and 4” ceramic time for this project. I simply placed a
dab of silicone on the tile, and then pushed the cap down onto
it, squeezing out the silicone. I then used my finger to smooth
the silicone against the tile and cap. I let this dry for 24hrs.
Step 2:
Cut out a small hole from your sponge. This should be
large enough to snuggly fit over your PVC pipe. The bigger
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the sponge the better. A good rule of thumb here is you will
need 10 cubic inches of sponge per 10 gallons of water. In this
example, we used a 4”x4”x2” sponge. This would be 32 cubic
inches. Meaning, I could use this on a tank up to 30 gallons.
With the sponge cut out, you can insert you PVC pipe
onto the end cap. The height of the PVC doesn’t matter, as it is
where the water will exit. I suggest running it the height of
your tank.
With the PVC pipe on the end cap, you can place the
sponge on and trace out the sponge onto the PVC pipe.
Step 3:
Remove the sponge and drill holes between the lines you
just created. Holes should be 1/8-1/4”
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Step 4:
Drill hole into PVC elbow. This hole should be slightly
smaller than the airline hose.
Insert airline hose.
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Step 5:
Pull airline hose all the way through the PVC elbow and
place air stone on the end of the airline. Place on top of PVC
pipe. The air stone should reach the bottom of the PVC pipe.
You can make the PVC pipe taller if you like, and then
add some extra pipe to the end of the elbow to direct the flow
away from the filter.
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Plug the air pump in, and that’s it.
Once a week or so, you should remove the sponge and

give it a good rinse/squeeze in a bucket of tank water doing a
water change.
HOW IT WORKS
Much like the filter before it, the air bubbles rising cause
suction behind them. This causes the water to be sucked into
the PVC pipe right after the water passes through the sponge.
Water then exits at the top. The sponge in this case acts as
the mechanical and biological filter.
Canister filter
The DIY canister filter is a project favored by many. The

fact that it can be any size you need it to be, or any design
makes this project extremely tempting. In this project, I will
show a basic design of the canister. You can change what you
want, or even add to it. This project is simply to inspire you.
We will be using a 4” diameter PVC pipe here. Every foot
holds 0.6 gallons.
Supplies needed:
 4” PVC pipe
 4” PVC end cap (slip)
 4” threaded male cap
 4” female adapter (slip x
thread)
 Silicone(GE I silicone as
mention in the glass
aquarium build)
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 PVC cement
 2 bulkheads (CARLON Item #3623-662 Model
#LQTCS-050)
 ¾” spade drill
 Sandpaper
All of these supplies can be found at any hardware store.

The total cost for all of it will be around $40 or less. The only
difficult item to find is the small bulkheads. These are usually
found in the electrical section of a hardware store. However, I
provided the product and model number to help. There will be
a couple of optional supplies in this build as well.
All supplies needed:
200
Female slip end cap:
Male treaded end cap:
Female adapter. Slip on one end, thread on the other.

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Step 1:
Choose the length of PVC you want to use. In the chapter
where we spoke on how to size filters, will help you pick what
you need.
Dry fit the male end cap on the bottom. Take bulk head
and place it above the end cap and mark where it is. This will
be your guide for drilling the hole. Remove the end cap and
drill the marked hole. We will use the spade drill bit for this.
The drill bit only needs to be the width of the threaded shaft
on the bulkhead.
202
Drill the male top cap as well. Directly down the middle.
Step 2:
Install bulkheads using silicone. The top bulkhead is an
easier fit, as it sits flush with the top.
The bottom will be on a round side, so you will need to

make sure the bulkhead is secured tightly and extra silicone is
used. The silicone will go on the inside between the bulkhead
nut and the PVC.
Step 3:
You can now cement the end cap in place. Sanding the
edges of the PVC and cap first to insure a good seal. Simple
203
apply the cement to any PVC that will be touching each other
(inside of cap, outside of pipe)
Do the same for the female adapter.
Step 4:
Now we need to create something for the media to sit on
inside the canister so it isn’t sucked out of the bulkhead buy a
pump and we insure full circulation threw the media by having
it lifted up slightly.
A good option is to simple cut off a 1” piece of the PVC

pipe.
Cut that piece in half so that when you squeeze it, it
overlaps.
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We need two of these. One for the bottom to hold up the
media and one for the top to separate the biological media
from the mechanical media.
I used some mesh wrapped around the cut PVC piece to
allow flow but still be a barrier.
I then stuff this all the way down to above the bulkhead. I
then fill the canister up with biological media, then another
barrier to set the mechanical media on (filter floss)
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That’s it!
At this point we can connect a pump and some hose and

hook it up to your aquarium. There are many options to
accomplish this, so do what best suits your aquarium.
HOW THIS WORKS:
Water enters the canister threw the top, from there is

passes through the mechanical media, then the biological
media. The pump then returns the water from the bottom of
the canister to the aquarium.
As a perk, you can make these much smaller or bigger.
You can even lay them on their side and use a power head if
the canister is above the tank.
With so many options and variations you can choose

from, it’s no wonder the DIY canister filter is a popular
aquarium project.
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Internal Canister filter
As the name implies; a canister filter… that goes INSIDE of

your aquarium.
All the benefits of a canister filter, minus the larger pump and
hoses. Plus costing much less.
The downside? Usually only good for tanks under 100 gallons
and take up room inside the tank. Also, externals only have a
couple hoses in the tank.
An internal canister filter is still a great filter to have however.

Due to the fact that we use a pump, it’s more powerful than an
air driven filter. Due to the fact that it is more powerful, we
can actually build it larger than we typically could for an
internal filter.
Sizing an internal canister for your aquarium is the same as an

external, so really you just need to know how to build both
and then decide which one is right for you. Lots of pro’s and
con’s to both, so a few things to consider.
Supplies:
PVC pipe: The size you use is totally up to you and your
needs. The smallest I would use is 2” diameter. Height is also
up to you. When complete, you can also color it whatever
color you like. (I suggest using krylon fusion spray paint)
Sponge: You will need some form of mechanical media. It’s

up to you what you use, but in this project I show a sponge
with a 30ppi rating.
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Biological media: Anything with a ton of surface area is
recommended. You can buy it (sintered glass or ceramic
media) or get creative and crush up something like lava rock.
2 PVC end caps: Depending on the size of PVC you use, you
will need a pair of end caps the same size.
Pump: A small pump or power head is all you need for this.
I prefer the maxi-jet power head for many of my projects due
to its low cost, low power consumption and the design of the
input and output. Feel free to use any brand you like though. A
basic air pump will not be strong enough for this project.
Drill: You’re going to need a drill. For this project you will
need two sizes. One that is 6mm and one that is 12mm. I
suggest a “step” drill bit that includes multiple sizes. This
eliminates switches bits and is much easier to drill with.
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Step 1:
Drill a hole in the top of an end cap large enough to fit the
input of your pump.
Step 2:
Drill several smaller holes in the other cap. 6mm holes are
fine. The more you can drill, the better. I prefer to drill as
many as I can and space them all evenly.
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Step 3:
With the hole in the bottom done. Place it on the PVC pipe
and drill holes into the side of the cap as well. (Holes should
go through the PVC wall as well.)
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Step 4:
Insert sponge or the mechanical media you chose, into the
pipe. The sponge should be large enough to cover holes in side
of PVC as well. Sponge should be flush with the bottom of the
PVC. Then put the cap back on.
Step 5:
Pour in your biological media. Leaving enough room at the
top for the pumps strainer if it has one.
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Step 6:
Put the top cap on, then insert pump into top hole.
This should be a snug fit.
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Step 7:
Install into aquarium. You can install this upright or on its

side. The pumps suction cups should hold it in place.
If not, drill a couple of small holes into the side of the PVC
pipe and insert small suction cups like we have done for a few
of the water bottle projects.
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Placing the pump upright does allow for surface agitation and
is the way I prefer to have it.
To clean the filter; simply remove the pump, turn the filter
upside down to drain the water and take the sponge out. Give a
rinse in old tank water during a water change and then re-
install it. This should be done as often as you need to, but
generally every week would be best.
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HOW IT WORKS:
The pump will draw water into the PVC pipe at the holes in
the bottom. The water is forced through the sponge to be
mechanically filtered and then through the biological media to
be biologically filtered.
Finally, the water is return to the aquarium. Filtered and

circulated, while causing surface agitation that will aid in vital
gas exchange at the surface.
So for around $20-30, you can build your own internal

canister filter exactly to your own specifications and size!
Below tank sump filter
What is a sump? In the simplest form, it is a container of

water.
There are many benefits to a sump;
 No equipment in aquarium
 Ability for to have far more biological media
 A filter customized directly to your needs
 Increases overall water volume of the system
There are many ways to build a sump as well. It will all

come down to whatever you need.
In this build I will show you the basics of a sump. We will

look at a very simple design, and what it all means.
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How does a sump work? Water overflows from the main
aquarium, down to the sump. The tank water flows through
the sump getting filtered, and then is pumped back up to the
aquarium. We will talk more about overflows in the plumbing
chapter.
First and foremost, you need a spare aquarium. The size

of your sump should typically be at least 20% the size of the
main display. That rule of thumb usually works.
Ultimately, we just need to make sure the sump does not

flood, or run dry. This is
something we will learn more Pro tip #23
in the plumbing chapter. Before eve considering a
design of a sump, make
sure you dry fit all of your
Let’s use an example. Let’s equipment into the sump
say we have a 100 gallon first. Rough estimates
display tank and use a 20 gallon sometimes don’t work.
sump for the filter. There is nothing worse
than having to rip the
sump apart because a
Now when the power goes piece of equipment won’t
out, let’s use the rule of thumb fit into it!
that the top 1” of water will
drain down to the aquarium
below. How much water is that? Well imagine the tank is 48”
long and 18” wide. We can now find how many gallons it is.
Since there is 231 cubic inches to a gallon of water, we simply
need to multiply the tanks width X height X that 1” of water.
We find that is about 4 gallons of water.
So we now know we need to be able to have a spare 4

gallons of room in the sump in case we shut the pump off or
the power goes out.
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We now know that we can only use about 15 gallons of
that 20 gallon tank while running.
In order to separate the sump into sections, we use what is
called “Baffles”. A baffle is basically a barrier. It can hold
water back or make it flow where you want the water to flow.
A glass sump tends to be the most popular as they are

typically the cheapest. The cheapest type of sump you can
build for a submerged media style is a 2 baffle sump.
Following the arrows, the water enters the sump on the

left. In this section, we would mechanically filter it with
whatever you choose to do that with. Including filters socks,
sponge or filter floss.
Water flows under the first baffle and into the second
chamber. This area will hold all of your submerged media.
Finally the water rises and overflows into the last

chamber which would contain your pump, heater and anything
else you want in there.
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The baffles here are simply sheet of glass with silicone
holding them in place.
The first baffle is lifted by about an inch to allow water to

flow under. During installation and couple of DVD cases were
placed under it to prop it up.
Notice it doesn’t go right to the top though. This is to insure if
the bottom clogs somehow, the water can still rise and
overflow over the top.
The second baffle touches the ground to insure water has

to flow up through the media and over the baffle. Again, this
is simply ilicone in place.
Ideally you would be using a Pro tip #24
cheap second hand aquarium and
just get the glass needed precut at The above tank sump
a local glass shop. Be sure to doesn’t have to be a
filter. You can use the
order glass the dimensions of the basic concept and use it
INSIDE of the aquarium. as a refugium, or grow
You can mimic any sort of emerged plants in it as
sump or add more baffles if you well.
like, however this is simply to
show you how they work and a
basic design.
Above tank sump filter
The above tank sump filter is actually the same thing as a

below tank sump filter. However, this works much better for
people that:
 Can’t have a sump, but want a sump
 Can’t drill their tank or don’t want to
 Don’t want to build an overflow
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 Don’t want to buy a big pump
 Don’t want to have to plumb your tank in any way
 Can’t afford the overall costs of setting up a
conventional sump
There are many other reasons to do this as well.
When setting up a more conventional sump, there are a lot

of costs that most people do not consider. Including; plumbing
costs, overflow costs, equipment costs and then the actual
sump. These costs add up fast.
The down side to this above tank sump or overhead sump
is it has to go above the tank. This can be an eye sore for
some.
The overhead sump is extremely affordable however. For
the most part, costing under $30 or less for EVERYTHING.
Including the pump!
Supplies needed:
 Plastic window sill planter

 A bulkhead(s)
 ¾” spade drill
 Lighting diffuser
 2 Plastic zip ties
 A power head
 Hose
 Media bag
 Filter floss
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Plastic window sill planter: This is exactly what it
sounds like. These are PERFECT for an overhead filter. They
are narrow, lite, and cheap. We
need something that will not be
too obstructive, and something
practical. These are perfect! You
can find these for under $5 in
many lengths. You can find these
almost anywhere you see plants
for sale.
A bulkhead(s): We need the water to overflow out of the

filter somehow. A bulkhead in this
situation is best. Depending on how
much flow you are looking for, you
will need to size the bulk head
appropriately. (Covered in the
plumbing chapter). If you are
looking for low flow, then you can
simply use what we used on the canister filter. These are
cheap. Costing about $3 each.
Spade drill: To install the

bulkheads, we’ll use a spade drill. A
hole saw might be the better choice if
you are using larger bulkheads.
Lighting diffuser: We will need a small amount of

lighting diffuser. Sometime you can
find this for free. It breaks easily so
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the hardware store might have thrown some out. If not, you’ll
be stuck buying a full sheet, which can cost around $10. The
amount you need will only be about $1 worth. The rest can be
used for other projects.
2 Plastic zip ties: We will need 2 plastic zip ties. Any

size or type is fine. We just need them to hold our “mechanical
tray” together. Because they are plastic, they will also be none
toxic and safe.
Power head: Since we

don’t need any special power
head, any brand will do. The
reason we can even use a
power head is because the
water only needs to be pumped
up by a few inches. So a
conventional pump is not needed. This is a huge money saver.
Only cost around $15 instead of a few hundred.
Hose: We will need a hose in two sizes that both connects

to the power head outlet and the bulkheads. This will bring the
water to the filter, and then let it drain back down. I like to use
a clear hose. Hose of this type can be found at most hardware
stores and sold by the foot. Costs will vary, however it’s still
pretty cheap.
Biological media: Since this is a

submerged filter, it is best to use a
ceramic type media. Use as much as you
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the chapter on bacteria, states you will need.
Media bag: Keeping your media in bags is a good idea. It

will allow for easier cleaning later on. Not to mention, keeps it
away from the heater we will place in with it. You can even
use “panty hose” if you have to.
Filter floss: We will use this

cheap and effective material for our
mechanical media.
Step 1:
With your lighting diffuser, cut out 2 squares (using wire
cutters works well) these squares should be the same as the
inner dimensions of the box and no taller than it. With the zip
ties, hold it together at the corners.
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Position the horizontal diffuser a few squares below the
upright one. This will serve as a tray for the filter floss.
Elevating it above the media, forcing water to have to travel
threw it first.
The lip will contain the floss, while serving as a spill way
as well, in case it clogs.
Insert the new try into one end of the box. Some boxes
have staggered sides on them, so you might have to cut the
diffuser to fit around them.
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Step 2:
Drill holes in the other end of the box for the bulkheads.
Keeping in mind that the holes only need to be as big as the
bulkhead shaft. (Just like we did with the canister filter)
Their position should be about ¾” of the height of the

box. This will mean that the heater stays submerged at all
times. It also means that the bottom of the mechanical filter
stays slightly submerged so that this filter stays silent.
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Step 3:
Install heater. You will need to protect the heater with
lighting diffuser of a heater guard. We do not want the media
to touch the heater as it will create hot spot on the heater,
which will lead to failure. You can also install the filter floss
at this time.
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Step 4:
Put your biological media in bags, and drop it in.
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Step 5:
It can now be placed on your aquarium. You will need to
support the filter somehow though. A couple narrow pieces of
wood ran the width of the tank under the filter would work
well. Push the filter to the back of the tank to take up less
space. Another option is to place it on top of your canopy if
you have one.
Connect the power head to the hose and run the hose up to
the filter floss. I like using a simple clamp to hold it in place
so it’s easy to remove if I need to. Then simply run hose from
the bulkheads down to the tank as a return.
That’s it!
HOW IT WORKS:
Water is pumped up to the filter floss where it is mechanically
filtered. Water is then forced to flow through the media and
over the heater where it is biological filtered and heated. The
water then overflows out of the bulkheads and back to the
aquarium.
Internal Mat filter
The internal mat filter (also known as the “mattenfilter”) is a

well-known and used method of filtration.
Using only filter mat and a pump to complete the filter and run
it. Its simplicity, ease of use as well as functionality makes it
an extremely appealing filter.
With that said, it is UGLY. This is the top reason you do not
see it as often as you should.
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However, I believe the pros outweigh the cons in this case.
First, let’s talk about this filter in reverse. I want to tell you
how it works, why it works and how to size it to your tank.
So first and foremost, this filter operates on a sponge and a

sponge only. The sponge acts as your mechanical as well as
your biological filtration.
The sponge in question is common filter foam you would find

in a lot of filters. It is reticulated foam made of either
Polyether or Polyester.
The foam has a rating scale measured in PPI (pores per inch).
The PPI rating indicates the number of cells (pores) within a
square linear inch of material. The higher the number, the
more pores there will be.
The more pores there are, the finer the material is and the
smaller the particles it can trap.
When it comes to a mat filter, we need just the right PPI rating
to get the most surface area while avoiding clogging and still
allow ample water flow through it.
Personally, I have found that a sponge with the rating of 30PPI

to be best for these style filters.
Sheets of filter foam are simple to find. A lot of fish stores

will carry various sizes or can get them in. Many onlne
aquarium supply stores also carry it. There are companies that
specialize in it. It can be found on eBay as well. A simple
google search will reveal countless vendors of the material.
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How do you size this to your aquarium? Well, I like to go with
4 liters of sponge media per 50 gallons. While this is a vague
answer, the reasoning is simple: Filter sponge does not have
nearly as much surface area as other submerged biological
media. We simply need more material to match the surface are
we would typically need.
This filter is not really practical on tanks wider than 12”. The
largest commonly sized aquarium that is 12” wide is a 55
gallon. Any wider, and the sponge becomes too flimsy as well
as the tank start to increase in volume and this style filter
becomes less effective. (Unless you want to add more than one
of these to your tank, which is doubtful)
These filters are generally best used on breeding tanks, fish

rooms, hospital tanks, etc… Essentially, for all the same
reasons a normal sponge filter would be.
The big plus side to this filter is it can hide your heaters and
other equipment behind it as well as act as a divider if needed.
So now that we know a lot more about this filter (including

what it is made of, how it is rated, how to size it to your
aquarium and its best uses), let’s get started with the build:
I’m going to show you two ways on how to set this up.
The first method is with an air pump. This method would be

most useful for a fish room, or if you don’t have a power head.
The second method is with a power head. This method simply

allows for more flow.
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Supplies:
 Sponge
 Pump
 1” PVC pipe
 One 90 degree PVC elbow
 PVC end cap
 Ceramic tile
 Power head or air pump
 Airline tubing and air stone(if using airpump)
Sponge: The sponge

should have a rating of
30PPI and be as tall as
your aquarium. The width
should be 1/2”–3/4”
WIDER than your tank.
This will insure a snug.
Step 1:
We will want to start out by building your air lift. This is what
we will use with an air pump to lift water from behind the
sponge to in front of it.
230
We will want the PVC pipe and attached elbow to be 1-2”
shorter that your aquarium. OR where ever your water level is.
We want it to reach the top of the water level in the tank.
With the PVC together as shown above
Step 2:
Drill a hole in the top of the elbow. The diameter of the hole
should be slightly smaller than airline tubing. ¼” should do it.
Step 3:
Drill holes in the bottom of the PVC. Holes should also be ¼”
and run around the entire bottom of the PVC. I like to simply
drill 3 holes on each “side” of the PVC resulting in 12 holes
total.
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Step 4:
Run your air line through the hole in the elbow and attach air
stone to the end at the exit. The hole we drilled into the top of
the elbow will hold the airline in place as it was slightly
smaller than the airline. The air stone should remain at the
bottom at all times.
Step 5:
Silicone the end cap to the ceramic tile and wait 24hrs.
Then insert PVC pipe with into the cap.
232
Step 6:
Place the air lift into the aquarium.
Fit the sponge in place.
You might notice that the sponge is too tall, so you will have
to cut out a notch in the sponge to accommodate the airlift.
This can be done with a simple razor blade.
233
Step 7:
With the sponge in place, you can place you heaters or any
other equipment behind the sponge. Then fill your aquarium
up and start the pump.
234
HOW DOES IT WORK?
Once the pmp is turned on, air will travel up the PVC pipe.
The air traveling upwards creates suction behind the bubbles
which in turn, causes water to be sucked upwards as well.
(Which is why it is call an air lift)
235
That water enters the bottom of the PVC pipe where we drilled
the holes.
Then exits at the top of the PVC pipe.
The water being pumped out from behind the sponge is

replaced by water from in front of the sponge that is forced to
flow through the sponge and be both mechanically and
236
If using a power head, the project becomes even easier.
Attach your power head to the wall of the tank or however it

installs.
Then simply attach some hose or PVC pipe to the output and
feed it through the sponge. (cutting a small hole in the sponge
first.
237
Now obviously this filter has many uses, the sponge does as
well. It works great as a divider for your aquarium if needed as
well.
Cleaning it is simple. Simply remove it for the aquarium and

squeeze it a few times until it comes clean, inside a
bucket/container of aquarium water. That’s it!
238
Media reactor
What is a media reactor?
A media reactor is much like a canister filter in that they

essentially look and function in similar manners.
While a canister filter can perform all roles of filtration, a

media reactor is only typically used for chemical media or
sometimes biological.
Essentially, a media reactor allows you to concentrate the flow

of water through one particular media that your aquarium
requires.
Some common media used in a reactor are things like

activated carbon or GFO (Granular Ferric Oxide), for either
removing impurities from the water or phosphate. However,
many types of media can be used for different purposes.
239
Building one is incredibly simple given the simplicity of the
design.
This project will be broken into 3 parts;
 Supplies
 How to build the reactor
 How it works
Supplies:
 Spaghetti/paste holder with a twist top

 Sewing mesh/plastic canvas
 Sponge
 Bulkhead
 PVC pipe
 Various PBV fittings
Spaghetti/paste holder with a twist top:

A plastic or glass
container is fine.
The bigger the
better. You will
need a twist top
to insure the lid
stays on tight! In
fact, you may
want to add in a
gasket (O ring) to
insure it is water tight. I paid only $2 for this one. It does have
a stainless steel ring around the cap, but the top is a thin
plastic.
240
Sewing mesh/plastic canvas:
You can pick up a
large plastic mesh at
most fabric stores or
hobby stores. It is
not an uncommon
item and is cheap! I
got a 24”X18” sheet
for only $2. We
only need a small
amount, but it
comes in handy for many other projects.
Sponge:
You truly can never
have enough
sponge! I use it for
so many projects,
that whenever I see
a good deal on it
anywhere, I buy as
much as I can! You
only need a small
about for this
project though. Using a density of 30PPI will be best.
Bulkheads:
These need to be as small as
possible. In fact, you will want
to insure that they will fit on
top of you pasta holder first.
One needs to fit in the middle,
241
while the other sits beside it. It will be a tight fit though, so
insure this is possible before committing to a specific type.
I’m using a type of bulkhead commonly found in the electrical
section of a hardware store.
PVC pipe:
You won’t need much PVC pipe at all. I am using ½” PVC for
this project. It allows for me to fit everything in the container,
while connecting small pumps to it. I only needed about a
foot.
PVC fittings:
I used a PVC end cap and 3 couplings. That’s it!
Step 1:
Taking a look at the completed pipe will give you a better idea
on where we are going with this.
242
We want to start off by drilling ¼” holes in the 4 sides of the
end cap. You may want to do more depending on the flow you
plan to put through this, however this is a good start. You can
always make them bigger or make more during testing.
We will come back to this stand pipe in a moment.
Step 2:
Trace out the cap of your container on the plastic mesh. Then
cut it out.
Once cut out, and depending on the thickness of the container,
you may have to make some adjustments.
Once initially cut out, you will want to see if it fits inside the
container, touching all sides without bending. It needs to be a
snug fit, but not too snug!
Do the same for the sponge. Place the new cut out mesh on top
for a guide.
243
Finally, take a piece of PVC pipe and cut the diameter of it out
of the sponge and mesh.
You should make sure the PVC is also a snug fit in the mesh
and it doesn’t slide around too much.
You should end up with 2 pieces of sponge and 2 pieces of
mesh that fit perfectly inside your container, while having
holes in the middle of them that allow for the PVC pipe to fit
in.
244
Step 3:
Prepare the cap and install bulkheads.
245
I used a step drill as the top of the container was a fragile and
thin plastic.
You need to insure that the middle bulkhead is as close the the
center as possible!
246
Step 4:
Start by placing the end cap on a piece of PVC that is the
thickness of your sponge. THEN drill the end cap so that it
goes through the cap and the pipe.
Place the sponge on first, and then the plastic mesh. Follow
this up with a coupling. The end cap and coupling hold the
sponge and mesh in place.
247
Follow this up with a long piece of PVC pipe. (you will have
to practice placing this in the container a few times to get the
length perfect. NOTHING gets cemented together. Its not
needed. After the long PVC, install another coupling and a
small piece of PVC the thickness of the sponge.
248
On top of the last coupling, place a small piece of pvc. The
length will be tricky, so few attempts might be needed to get it
just right.
249
Now place the cap on and twist it tight. The PVC and the
bottom of the bulkhead will meet and the PVC will slide into
the middle bulkhead. This is why a few attempts at getting the
right length will come into play.
So this is simply an example of a template you can follow.

Obviously you can use whatever pieces you would like to use
that you are able to find in your area.
So how does this work?
Water is pumped into the top middle bulkhead. The water

travels down the PVC pipe and equally exits at the bottom
through the end cap with holes. Because the end cap elevates
the sponge off the bottom, the water can freely flow out of the
pipe and evenly forced through the media above.
The water then travels up through the sponge which acts as a

mechanical filter as well as a barrier for the media, then
250
through the media. Finally being forced out of the top
bulkhead and returned the aquarium system. You only need a
small pump to run this. These are commonly placed beside
sumps with small power heads running them.
Since the cap will twist on and off easily, all you have to do to
replace the media or add to it is twist the cap off, and pull the
entire configuration out of the container. You might even want
to place your media in fine mesh bags to keep things cleaner.
So for around $20, you can make your own reactor in minutes!
251
Emerged filters
Trickle tower:
The trickle tower has been an extremely popular choice

for a filter in the hobby for a very long time. What was once a
complicated and seemingly
difficult thing to set up is now Pro tip #25
the one of the easiest and
cheapest! Since a trickle tower
generally runs on a sump
Now due to this style, it with a very low water
makes it extremely efficient at level, any evaporation is
delivering oxygen to the oxygen much more noticeable.
loving bacteria. Keep a close eye on the
The down side is it is sump and make sure to
check the water level
impossible to have full water daily when feeding your
contact with the media. fish. If the sump runs
Meaning, to insure we have dry, you will burn the
enough surface area for the pump out and destroy the
bacteria to grow on and to avoid heater, possibly even
leading to fire.
clogging so that water does not
channel, we need to use a larger
size media. SO the overall size of the filter increases.
However, this is typically worth it and more popular on
aquariums that are 100+ gallons in size.
The best media for this type of application is plastic bio-

balls. They retain their shape and do not compact. The also
create large open areas for the water to flow thru so it doesn’t
channel. No brand is really better than the other here as well. I
like to get 1” bio-balls made by whoever sells them cheapest.
They are plastic and last forever, so you only have to buy them
once.
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With that said, we can actually use an alternative to
plastic bio-balls which will do the same thing for a fraction of
the cost!
Plastic pot scours! These are extremely affordable and can
be found almost anywhere.
Supplies:
 A sump
 A plastic drawer system
 A drill bit
 Plastic pot scours
 Filter floss
The sump: The sump can be made out of anything really.

Whether it’s an old aquarium, or ever a plastic tote. It won’t
matter. We just need it to hold water. The size you need will
only need to be enough to hold the additional water the tank
will over flow when the power goes out, as well as enough to
keep the water level to the point where the heater and
equipment stays covered while running.
This can be found in the same way we find sump size in
the previous section on the below tank sump filter. Since we
can even use a tote, cost on this shouldn’t exceed $10.
Plastic drawer: This is the best

part. The drawer system really makes
this filter not only easy, but possible
for anyone. Sizing it can be done the
same way we size emerged filter
material where we discussed this in
the bacteria chapter of this book.
Typically speaking, you can get a
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large tower like this one for under $10. It is very important to
first make sure the tower will fit in the sump. In this filter, the
bottom drawer can be removed if needed and the filter can go
under it. Meaning the overall length of the sump can actually
be shorter than you think. Making it more compact. You will
also want to insure it will fit under your tank if that’s where
you plan to put it.
Drill bit: You will need a drill and

drill bit. You will be drilling a LOT of
holes. Having a few different sizes will
be ideal to insure the right size. We will
have to run tests. The size of the hole
will depend on the flow you plan to put into the filter.
Plastic pot scours: This will be

your biological media. Luckily, they
are cheap and easy to find. You can
expect to pay around $1 for 6. These
are also known as plastic “pot
scrubbies”
Filter floss: Buying that huge

bag of polyester filling at your fabric
store is now starting to make sense
isn’t it? We can use it in almost any
style filter! Expect to pay $5-10 for a
few months’ worth.
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Step 1:
Remove all of the drawers and evenly drill holes spaced
1” apart. Start with small holes and test your pump on them.
Can all the water drain? You will actually want about ¼” of
water to constantly accumulate in the drawer.
This insures an even flow of rain from the drawer. If they

are too small, drill them a little bigger and test again. Don’t
start off with big holes. You can always go bigger, but if you
go too big, you can’t take that back.
Step 2:
Place drawer in the sump. Remove the bottom drawer as
your heater can go under it.
Note that in the photo above, the water level is to the top
of the first drawer. This is because if it was too low, you
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would hear too much water fall and it would make for a noisy
filter. Too high, and it’s no longer a trickle tower.
However, with a big enough sump, you can use the

bottom drawer for submerged media and more than double its
filtering capacity.
Notice to the right of the tower, there is enough room for the
pump.
Step 3:
Test the drawer holes. Run the pump through one drawer
with hole in it. See if it is working as it needs to be.
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Step 4:
Set it all up. The top drawer will be your mechanical
drawer. This will hold your filter floss. The second drawer
will be your pot scrubbies. This is for biological filtration both
of those drawers need to have the holes in them that’s it!
Install your pump. Set your overflows on your aquarium to
drain into the top drawer. Once a week, or when needed,
change your filter floss!
HOW DOES IT WORK?
Water enters the top of the tower where it is mechanically

filtered. That water rains down into the second drawer where it
is biologically filtered. Due to the raining action of the water,
it becomes a highly oxygenated environment for the bacteria.
Water is then heated and pumped back up to the main
aquarium.
Easy Aquaponics
First and foremost, what is aquaponics?
It is a system of aquaculture (growing fish to consume) in

which the waste produced by fish or other aquatic animals
supplies nutrients for plants grown hydroponically (growing
plants with no soil), which in turn purify the water.
Basically, it is growing plants off the nutrients from the waste

that the fish create.
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When it comes to the aquarium hobby, we have plenty of fish!
How can the average home aquarist take advantage of such a

system though?
Well, we need to keep it simple and easy enough to do that

anyone can use it.
We should start with an easy to grow plant that grows fast

with minimal care.
One of the easiest to keep plants, that is commonly found and

relatively cheap, as well as being one that does well with its
roots submerged in water is the Pothos. (Epipremnum aureum)
This plant will do very well in a brightly lit room or even with
a small light over it.
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What makes this such an easy project is you don’t need the
whole plant. Just a stem or two. It will quickly grow in no time
anyways.
The way this system will work is simple: We want to place the
stem in your aquarium water. It will eventually grow roots and
begin to use up nutrients in the water. (Like nitrate!)
You only need 1-2” of the stem in the water.
Or, if you have access to the full plant, you can remove a stem
with roots and have it working almost right away.
The bigger the plant grows, the more waste it will strip the
tank of.
So how do we get it to do this?
Easy! There is a multitude of ways.

259
The easiest way it to simple set it in the back of your tank and
lightly hold it in place with the lid, clamps or even the filter.
Within a few days of adjusting to the tank, the plant will start
working. While you can trim the plant back as it grows, it
certainly does look good growing up your wall or across the
back or your tank. (Adds a touch of natural look to your set
up)
Some more options are to drop it into the top of a sump or

hand of the back filter.
OR build a filter for it!
Remember the overhead sump we built? Well drop plants into

it as well!
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Place that on the back of your tank or how you normally
would and you now have a dedicated aquaponics system that
is easy to care for, cheap and very effective.
How effective will depend on how big the plant grows and the
amount of waste available. The results are definitely
noticeable though.
So that’s it really. I commonly buy and see a full pothos plant

for around $10. There is enough plant stems in it for at least
20 tanks or more. Enough for all your tanks, a few friends’
tanks and maybe some left to grow around the house!
This is easily one the simplest projects with lots of benefits

that anyone can do for their aquarium.
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The bucket filter
The bucket filter is a cheap, easy to build, efficient and

powerful sump that anyone wanting a wet/dry should consider.
In essence, this is a trickle filter and much like the storage

drawer filter we created before. In fact, they do the exact same
thing except the bucket will hold more media in comparison to
the drawers.
Since this project is so similar to the drawer trickle tower, we

can just right into the build as you will already know
everything else you need to know about this filter from that
build.
Supplies:
 A couple of buckets.
 A spare tank or tub
 A saw and drill
 Mechanical media (filter floss)
 Biological media (pot scrubbies of bio balls)
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Step 1:
Cut one of the buckets bottoms off. You will want to cut this
off while leave at least a 3 inch lip.
The cut doesn’t have to be straight, but feel free to draw a line
around the bucket as a guide to keep it straight.
263
Step 2:
With that same bucket, cut off the next 6 inches with the saw.
You will be left with a 6 inch ring. Put it aside, we will use it
later on.
264
Step 3:
Drill large holes into the bottom side of the ring.
These need to be big. You want to have the holes big enough
to be more than capable of handling more than the max
capacity of the pump.
265
Step 4:
Drill lots of evenly spaced holes in the bottom of the cut out
bucket bottom.
The size of the holes and how many will be depicted by the
amount of flow you plan to put through the bucket. I suggest
staring off with a few and then adding more in later. If you
add in too many, and the flow is uneven, you will reduce the
efficiency of the filter.
266
Step 5:
Drill large holes in the bottom of the second bucket. The holes
should be large enough so no water will pool in the bucket as
the pump pumps water into it, but small enough so that your
media does not fall through.
Step 6:
Now you can put it together. Using the small ring we created
earlier, set the ring down and place the main bucket inside of
it.
267
The ring will act as a platform to hold up the bucket (which in
turn, hold it out of the sup water as well)
Pour your media into the main bucket.
Make sure the media in the bucket is level and you leave
yourself enough room to drop the other bucket on top.
268
Place the bottom half of the bucket inside the main bucket. If
cut correctly and not too much media was added, it will sit
flush with the main bucket.
Put some filter floss on top of what you will come to see is
now your drip tray.
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HOW IT WORKS:
As water overflows from the aquarium, it will enter the top of

the bucket. Water is mechanically filtered by the filter floss
and then flows through the holes in that drip tray and flows
evenly over the media.
270
As the water gets to the bottom, it exits out of the main
buckets holes and through the supports holes.
Now obviously this filter has massive room for

personalization or preference for height, etc. However, this
will get you started on a filter I have personally used for
almost a decade.
The sump can hold your heater and return pump as most
sumps do.
Water level should stay above the bottom ring support to keep
the media out of the water (the bottom couple inches
submerged is all I recommend) while staying quiet (no water
splashing.)
On a weekly basis I would change the filter floss. Given that’s

it cheap and super easy to change, I would actually do it more
often if you can.
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Fluidized filters
The fluidized filter has been hitting the aquarium scene a

lot more than ever before. From bio-reactors to full aquarium
filters, it is becoming more and more popular.
What was once a mainly seen in aquaculture and koi
ponds is now being more and more seen in the aquarium
industry.
Knowing what it is capable of and how it works is key to
building a proper fluidized filter.
A fluidized filter works by the bio-logical media having
the ability to slightly float. Once bacteria starts to cultivate the
bacteria that media then becomes suspended in the water
column barely floating. The slighting agitation in the water
will cause that media to be float down into the water column,
slowly rising back up to the surface.
Now if we add a ton of

Pro tip #26
media and a ton of agitation, it
then becomes fully fluidized. As mentioned in this
We add the agitation by chapter, K1 is best suited
way of air bubbles. They are for a fluidized filter.
effective, and cheap to produce. However, due to its size it
can be difficult to work
with in the design phase of
The most commonly used your build. You might
fluidized media is called “K1 want to consider the next
Kaldness” by Evolution Aqua. step up; K3. It is twice the
size and easier to work
with, but less surface area
This is by far the best media
per cubic foot so it
to accomplish fluidization actually cannot support
within an aquarium filter that I the same biological load.
have found.
So how does a fluidized filter work?

272
1. The K1 fluidized within the filter are all tumbling
around with each other. This creates a nice even
contact with the water, insuring full filtration happens
with water passes through.
2. The more important part is what happens while the K1

is tumbling. While they are all crashing and rubbing
into each other, it causes older and weaker bacteria to
fall off the K1, only allowing the younger and more
efficient bacteria to remain.
3. All the while, the inside of the K1 receives no contact

with other K1 at all. This means that on the inside, the
bacteria and other organisms have a chance to live out
their entire life cycle from within the K1.
These 3 points are the key components that make this a

very efficient and power style of filter.
There are other perks to it however; a big perk is that it is

self-cleaning. You never have to touch it.
The down side is that K1 Kaldness is not cheap. Since this

is generally used on large aquarium, you will need a lot.
However, in this same section, I’m going to show you

how to build one for a smaller sized aquarium as well.
I will be showing you 3 styles of filters:
273
 Internal fluidized bed
 Sump fluidized bed
 Barrel fluidized bed
To know which one you will need, it is important to know

how much is needed. Now if you read the chapter on “know
your bacteria”, then you will already know the answer to this.
However, with K1 you can still calculate what you will

need.
Research with the media has shown that 1 liter of K1

kaldness can support 2.5 grams of waste per day. Some farms
have reported up to double that. So all you have to do here is
know how much you feed your fish. (It is best to read the
section on bacteria)
So we know how and why it works. We also know how

much we need, but to make it work properly, what is the ratio
of water to K1?
A 60/40 ratio is best once the media is cycled. You will

want to start out with less and eventually build up to that as
new K1 does not fluidise that great until there is bacteria
established on it. (60% K1 to 40% water)
To fluidize the K1 you will also need at least 1LPM of air
pumping into it.
A lot has to do with the design of the filter as well. Round

containers work much better than rectangular for example.
274
Let’s start off by showing the smallest type of filter for
this. This type of filter is what is making it extremely popular
in the hobby:
The Internal fluidized filter
Supplies:
 Water bottle
 K1
 Air hose
 Air pump
 Sponge
 Suction cups
As shown in
this photo, these
are the basics to
this build. An air
pump, Air hose,
sponge, a bottle,
and suction cups.
Water bottle: The water bottle can be as large as you

need it to be. Using the information on bacteria provided in
the bacteria chapter, you will be able to figure out exactly
what you need.
Air pump: The air pump needs to be capable of flowing

1LPM (Liter per minute) for every liter of K1 added. In most
cases, almost any strong air pump will due as this is a small
filter.
275
Sponge: Just like other filter, we simple need a basic
aquarium sponge that we can cut and insert onto the top of the
bottle. This will act as our mechanical filter.
K1: Depending on
how much you need, we
will be aiming to fill the
bottle with about 60% with
K1.
Suction cups: You

will only need a couple of
these to hold the bottle in
place. It is important to
have the style shown below
with the raise nub on the
end. We use that to insert
into the bottle and it will stay in place.
Step 1:
Drill a few holes into the bottom of the cap.
276
Step 2:
Drill a hole in the neck of the bottle to allow the airhose
to slip in. Make this hole slightly smaller than the hose to
make sure it is a snug fit. Also drill 2 holes in the side of the
bottle to allow the suction cups to slip in.
Step 3:
Put it all together.
Pro tip #27
Insert suction cups onto the
holes on the side. When first setting up
your internal fluidized
Insert air hose into the neck of filter, run the filter in
the bottle. The hose should only complete darkness or at
come half way into the bottle least with the tank lights
off for the first five days.
neck so that it is centered with Bacteria will establish
the cap. faster in this time frame
Pour your K1 in. in a darker environment.
Place cap on bottle.
Cut spong so that it fits over the
cap.
Plug air hose into pump.
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Step 4:
Install the filter.
Position the bottle using the suction cups along the wall of the
aquarium. The bottle should be facing upside down.
Step 5:
Turn the pump on, and watch your filter come to life!
278
HOW DOES IT WORK
The air bubbles rising causes suction to form behind

them.
That suction causes water to be drawn into the bottle via
the cap with the holes drilled into it.
That water first needs to travel through the sponge and be

mechanically filtered.
The water then travels through the K1 where it is

biologically filtered and returned to the aquarium.
Positioning the bottle slightly below the water’s surface

will also cause the bubbles to create surface agitation as they
burst at the surface. This will aid greatly in gas exchange.
Sump fluidized bed
Creating a fluidized filter from within a basic rectangular

aquarium is actually not that easy.
After creating many different designs and testing them,
the one I came up with that worked the best, ended up costing
the most to make.
Now this section won’t really be on how to build this
exact filter, but rather what I did to accomplish it. This section
will serve as an example to get ideas from and to get you
thinking.
279
The thing with K1 is that it is so small, and highly
influenced by the slightest amount of movement or suction.
Controlling where it stays poses the biggest challenge.
In the example below, I found that I had to completely
section off the K1 in order for it to work.
The challenge here was that I needed a section to

mechanically filter the water on one side and then on the other
side, have a section for my heaters and return pump.
So what I did was I took 2 sheets of thin acrylic to act like

my baffles. I drilled them and fitted them with large
bulkheads.
I found that no matter how large the bulkheads were, I

would still get K1 clogging them up. So I had to spread out the
suction created. I did so with pipe.
In the example below, water enters the sump on the right

where it is first mechanically filtered. The water travels into
the bulkhead and exits at the top of the pipe. (Insuring
circulation)
Water then travels into the section with K1 and is

From there, it finally enters the last set of bulkheads with

pipes attached and capped up (to make sure no K1 enters
them.
To make sure the suction was spread out; I cut slits in the
pipe using a basic chop saw. I could have done many holes,
but the slits allow for more flow which equals less suction.
280
In the last chamber, the water is heated and pumped back
up to the display tank to complete the cycle.
The baffles I created:

This was on the right side on the sump, and was where
water would enter the K1 chamber.
This baffle was on the left side and was where the water
would exit the K1 chamber.
281
The slits cut into the pipe:
Everthing in place.
Notice on the left, there is a large sponge that will act as

the mechanical portion of the filter.
282
Finally, it is filled and running.
To fluidise the media I ran air lines along each end of the
chamber.
283
Barrel fluidized bed
The barrel fluidized filter tends to be the easiest to build.

It is the ideal shape for fluidized filters, yet only gets used on
large aquarium or even ponds.
This is a 2 barrel filter I am using on my 540 gallon

aquarium. It holds 100 liters on media.
This system allows for me to be able to feed my tank
upwards of a pound of food a day, and handle the waste
production with ease.
So again, this will serve as an example as to how I did this

project. There are so many different ways to accomplish it, so
let this serve as some good advice.
Starting out I know I needed to keep the mechanical,
biological and the heating/pump sections all separate.
So what I decided on was to mechanically filter the water
before it got to the K1 chamber.
What I did was; use 2 barrels and connect them with a 4”

PVC pipe.
I simply drilled large hole in the side of the barrels and
pushed the PVC in. It was a snug fit, but not water proof. So I
lined around the PVC on the inside and outside with silicone.
The first barrel would serve as my K1 chamber, the

second would be the heating and pump chamber.
I needed the barrels first obviously. So I picked a couple

food grade barrels up for about $40 I believe.
Washed them out with hot water several times and they
were good to go!
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Starting off with mechanical filtration, I needed
something that was easy to do and cheap to maintain.
I decided to use a spare plastic container and cut the

bottom out. In place of the bottom I set in a piece of lighting
diffuser.
I then just used a couple clamps to hold it in place under

the water outlets. This enabled me to accomplish what I
needed done, yet it was not permanent. So adjustments or
changes could be made with ease if I ever wanted to.
For the mechanical media, I simply lay a sheet of filter

floss on top of it and change it every few days. Doing all of
this allowed me to build the tray cheap, easy and efficient,
while keeping running costs as low as possible.
An overall look at the first chamber.
Notice the mechanical portion of the filter has not been

added yet.
This design allows me to run upwards of 120 liters of K1

in the barrel.
However, I am only running 100 liters
The mechanical tray in place with it held in place with

clamps. The bottom is cut out with lighting diffuser in place to
allow water to easily flow through while holding the filter
floss in place.
285
286
With the two barrels connected, I needed to stop the K1
from getting into the second barrel.
I did this by capping off the PVC connecting them on the K1

side and drilling many holes that were only slightly smaller
than the K1 itself.
This allows me to run up to 5,000 gallons per hour through

this filter.
I found that testing the set up at maximum capacity prior to

committing to any design was best.
I tried a few different ways to get the water to the next barrel
but this way served best, while not obstructing the K1
fluidization, and not allowing anything to clog up.
287
The return was placed into the bottom of the second barrel.
This means that water has to travel down the entire barrel and
be heated prior to being pumped back to the main aquarium.
I used basic aquarium heaters to heat the water.
288
As an end result, my filter adds 110 gallons of extra water to
my system total. Bringing it to 650 gallons total. I also use the
most efficient means of filtration while maintenance remains
to me only changing the filter floss when needed. This is by
far my favorite filter I have ever created. Hopes it serves to
inspire you as well!
So let’s recap.
You now know bacteria a lot more than before. We know
what it needs, and we know what will kill it.
We can even go as far as to say; “We keep bacteria, not fish”
Really, when you look at it that way, you will start to

understand filtration even more so. The fact of the matter is;
we keep bacteria and we use fish to feed them.
Essentially, that is the perspective that I would like to convey
here.
We also now know more about how to calculate the biological

load an aquarium can actually support by figuring out the
waste the fish will produce.
Using that information, we can also figure out how much

media is needed for any method of filtration. We will also be
able to use the best media for the method of filtration because
we not only understand how these filters work, but why.
Now and only now, can we build a filter…
Knowing the methods of filtration and how they work will

also be useful in determining the best filtration system for
your needs and not what others tell you is good for “a tank that
size”.
289
CHAPTER 6
Plumbing
PART 1: UNDERSTANDING OVERFLOWS
Plumbing is a huge part of the hobby not often

understood.
Ultimately, it’s actually something no one even thinks

about or even considers until they
want to have a sump on their Pro tip #28
aquarium!
When considering sizing
Only then, do they start to the overflow, don’t
simply size it to what you
feel overwhelmed and sometimes need. Size it to what you
completely turned off from the need, and then double it.
idea of having a sump. This will give you a
safety factor of 2. (2 = Xs
In this chapter, I aim to bring what is needed) Having
the extra size will allow
you a better understanding on how for upgrading to a larger
it all works and more importantly; pump later on if you
how to do it! want to, plus the fact
that it will be far less
So what can you expect out of likely to clog.
this chapter? The biggest aspect to
having a sump is how to get the water down to the sump.
This is where overflows come into play.
What is an overflow?
290
To keep things simple: As water is pumped up to your
aquarium, we need a way to get the water back down to the
sump.
We cannot simply have a hose leading down, as this is a
form of suction. Even if we could match the amount of suction
with the amount of water being pumped up to the aquarium
(which is impossible), it would eventually lead to catastrophic
problems.
That problem is that when the power of the pump shuts

off, the suction from the hose won’t stop. It would drain until
the water level is below the hose. Now turn the pump back on
and the hose will not simply start sucking again. The water
from the sump will flood the main aquarium and the sump will
run dry.
So we need an overflow. One way to picture how an

overflow works is this:
Imagine you are filling up a bucket of water.

That bucket will eventually fill up, to the point of
overflowing. Now turn the tap off and the flow stops.
Turn the tap back on and the bucket will start overflowing
again.
Makes sense right? Now how do we control the water that

is overflowing out? Well, imagine there is a hole drilled into
the side of that bucket.
What happens then? Instead of the water overflowing

over the bucket, the water now flows out of that hole. Turn the
water off, and the water stops flowing out. Turn the water on,
and it starts flowing out again.
291
That is the basic function of an overflow.
So we know how an overflow works, but how do we
match the flow being put into it to be the same that drains? We
don’t.
Whatever we pump up to the main aquarium, that exact
same amount will overflow out. All we need to do is make
sure the overflow is big enough to handle what we pump up to
it.
We have a few options for adding an overflow to your
aquarium.
We can buy one for $150-300. This is a hang on the back
style.
We could build one for around $20. This would also be
the hang on the back style.
We could also drill our aquarium and fit it with bulkheads
and standpipes.
Obviously the latter two are what we will consider. Not

only are they cheaper to do than buying one, but they are also
easier to customize and get what you want out of them.
We will first look at how to build a hang on the back
overflow.
Then, we will look at drilling for an overflow.
So how do we size the overflow to the pump?
Simple:
The overflow simply needs to be able to flow more than

your pump. What this means is if you have a 500gph pump,
you will need at least a 500gph overflow. For safety reasons I
suggest using double the size you need.
292
So if you have an overflow capable of handling 1000gph
(gallons per hour) and your pump is 500gph, then the overflow
can more than handle that flow. How much will overflow out?
The exact same amount you pump up to it.
Chapter 6, PART 2:
HOB OVERFLOWS
HANG ON THE BACK OVERFLOW
The hang on the back overflow is widely known as the

PVC overflow. It has been a popular DIY overflow for a long
time due to its low cost and effectiveness. There are so many
different designs that you can make, but they all function on
the same principle. We will be looking at the most basic. We
will look at how to build it and why/how it works.
293
In this section, I will show you how to build it, as well
as how much flow you will get out of each size.
Supplies:
 PVC pipe
 3 PVC elbows
 4 PVC Street elbows
 1 PVC “T”
 1 PVC cap
 PVC cement
 Airline check valve and airline
PVC pipe: The amount of PVC pipe needed will vary

based on the size of height of your aquarium. You will get a
better idea on how much you need as the build starts to take
place. The diameter of pipe will depend on how much flow
you want out of your overflow.
294
Some examples are:
 0.5" = 90gph
 0.75" = 220gph
 1.0" = 375gph
 1.25" = 580gph
 1.5" = 840gph
 2.0" = 1500gph
3 PVC elbows: These are just your basic elbows the same
size as you PVC. It is best to use “slip” elbows as the PVC
will just slide into them.
Pro tip #29
4 PVC Street elbows:
These types of elbows have two The PVC overflow is a
different ends. One allows for great project for anyone.
PVC to slide into it, the other They can be used for so
end is the same size as the many different projects
that having a spare on
PVC, allowing it to slide into standby is always a good
other elbows and PVC fittings. idea. Their low cost
simply makes that
1 PVC “T”: The PVC “T” affordable to do as well.
allows for 3 connections into it.
The PVC simply slips into each
end.
1 PVC cap: The PVC cap is just that. It is a cap that will
cap off an end of PVC by sliding over it.
PVC cement: Any PVC cement is fine. Once cured it is

completely safe. This works much like welding acrylic where
the two pieces will be melted together.
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Airline check valve: Any style airline check valve is fine.
We use these on air pumps to generally stop water from
entering the pump. They allow air to be pumped into it one
way, but not the other. This is an important part, make sure
you get one. You will also need a small piece of airline.
Step 1:
We will start with taking 2 pieces of PVC pipe no shorter
than 50% of the height of your aquarium. We need these to be
identical in length. We will then place an elbow on top of each
pipe and connect them at the top. In order to connect them, we
will use a small piece of PVC pipe inserted into each side.
At this point, the entire build is only dry fitted. No cement

is used. We only want to make sure everything fits.
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Step 2:
Insert an elbow onto the inside pipe. Insert a street elbow
into that one.
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Step 3:
Insert a length of pipe onto the inside elbow. This pipe
will set how high your water level will be within your
aquarium.
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Step 4:
On the outside, insert a street elbow onto the pipe.
Step 5:
Insert a street elbow into the existing street elbow. Have it
face upwards.
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Step 6:
Insert the “T” onto the street elbow.
Step 7:
Insert a street elbow into the “T”. This elbow should point
down, or to the direction of the sump. This is where the water
will flow out of.
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Step 8:
Add a length of pipe to the top of the “T”. This length of
pipe MUST be at least 1-2” taller than the top loop of the
overflow. Place a cap on the top of the pipe.
The cap will eventually act as the silencer. It is not

needed, but will aid in noise control.
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Step 8:
Drill a small hole in the top of the cap. Starting at ¼” will
be idea. No hole and this overflow becomes a siphon. It will
not start back up on its own if you do not have the hole in
place.
Step 9:
In the middle of the top loop, drill a hole slightly smaller
than the airline tubing. Insert the airline tubing so that the end
of the tubing is FLUSH with the inside top wall of the PVC
loop. Finally, add on the check valve to the end. Position the
check valve so that air can be sucked out and not blown in.
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Step 10:
You can now prime the overflow. This means filling it

with water. Your aquarium water will need to start above the
inside stand pipe as this is where the water will come from.
If everything fits well, then you can take it apart and cement it
all back together. Including silicone the airline onto the PVC
pipe.
To prime it, we can simply put our thumb over the cap with
the hole in it and suck the air out of the overflow with the
check valve. Water will fill the overflow and begin to work.
You can now turn your pump on.
With it now running, shut your pump off and wait for water to
stop flowing. Then turn the pump back on. If you built it
correctly and are not leaking air, then the overflow will start
back up on its own. If not, examine for air leaks and double
check design.
You can now run you drain down to your sump with more
PVC or hose.
So we know how to build it, but how does it work? To

explain how it works, it is best to use an exploded example.
This is the same design, simply folded out.
Below would be an example of it sitting empty on an empty

aquarium.
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As we fill the tank and water level rises, the overflow still
sits empty.
Once the water level rises ABOVE the inside stand pipe,
only then does the inside loop fill with water. The rest is still
filled with air.
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This is the reason we have the check valve; A way to
remove that air and to remove any more air that gets in
over
time.
Sucking on that check valve will cause the air to be

removed, causing suction on the water on the inside loop. That
water is then forced to fill the entire overflow, including the
top loop.
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Water will try to escape out of the top of the outside
standpipe, but due to its height, it is forced to flow down and
out the bottom. That tall pipe acts as a siphon break and allows
this to remain an overflow.
When the pump shuts off, the overflow will only drain
from its sides. The inside loop cannot drain though. Because
of this, the overflow remains primed for when the pump turns
back on.
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Once water fills the inside pipe once again, the overflow
starts back up on its own.
That’s it! No matter what size pipe you use, it will all
work the same.
While this can be a bit of an eye sore in the aquarium, a

good suggestion to help mask it is to spray paint it with
“krylon fusion for plastic”. Paint it whatever color you want,
and then wait a week. Finally… put it to use!!
Even if you never plan to use one of these overflows, it is
still a simple and cheap project to do just for fun!
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Chapter 6, part 3:
THROUGH THE TANK OVERFLOW
You next option it going right through the aquarium and
installing a bulkhead.
However, there is a lot more to consider with this aspect,

as we not only need to drill the aquarium, but it also matters
where we drill the aquarium that will have an impact on the
flow of the water. A hole in the
bottom of your aquarium will Pro tip #30
flow more than the same sized
bulkhead in the side of your When deciding on
aquarium for example. overflow hole placement,
make sure you do what
We also need to consider YOU think looks good. In
the end, you are the one
bulkhead size and what size and that has to look like it.
type of hole saw will be needed. Drilling the bottom or
wall won’t matter in the
The last thing is simply that end, as we can size
glass, acrylic and plywood tanks everything accordingly.
Simply be sure it is what
are not all drilled in the same you want to do, as there
way. is no turning back once
the holes are drilled.
So in this section, we will
have to look at the following:
How to drill an aquarium:

 Glass (including type of hole saw)
 Acrylic (including type of hole saw)
 Plywood (including type of hole saw)
We will first take a look at bulkheads.

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Chapter 6, part 4:
Bulkheads
So what is a bulkhead? A bulkhead is typically made from
high impact ABS. They are generally composed of 3 main
components: The bulkhead, the nut and the gasket.
Bulkheads with come in one of two way; Threaded and

slip. (Slip meaning it is smooth on the inside. This applies to
the inside of the bulkhead neck
.
The neck is the long portion of the bulkhead. As seen in
the photo, the nut and gasket are on it.
Once a hole is drilled into an aquarium, the nut is

removed from the neck, and the gasket stays on. The nut goes
on the OUTSIDE of the aquarium. So all we need to do is
slide the bulkhead through the hole with the gasket on with it.
(Gasket goes on the INSIDE of the aquarium. Once in place,
we fasten the nut back on and then hand tighten it.
This creates a water proof barrier. If we plug the

bulkhead, water cannot escape. However, we will be attaching
pipe or hose to allow water to drain to our filters.
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With bulkheads coming in so many different sizes, what
size hole do they need?
Well, when we drill the hole, we only need it big enough

for the neck of the bulkhead to fit into.
The most common sizes you will encounter are:
 0.5” = Needs a 1 1/8 ” hole (30mm)

 0.75” = Needs a 1.5” hole (40mm)
 1.00” = Needs a 1.75” hole (45mm)
 1.5” = Needs a 2.5” hole (65mm)
 2.00” = Needs a 3” hole (75mm)
What are their flow rates?
So many things can impact their flow rates, including

placement and style of overflow (type of stand pipe, if used at
all)
We will take a look first, at drilling into a side wall. In
this case, we don’t have gravity on our side. So flow rates tend
to be a lot lower unless we create a custom overflow.
SIDE WALL: (before becoming fully submerged)

 0.5” = 95gph
 0.75” = 210gph
 1.00” = 375gph
 1.5” = 850gph
 2.00” = 1500gph
When we have gravity on our side, things start to change.

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With the bottom of the aquarium drill, and a pipe
installed; essentially, there is no real water pressure on the
pipe, so no down force is created. The water simple overflows
into it.
So the numbers surrounding that are as follows: (before

becoming fully submerged)
 1/2” =150gph
 3/4” =330gph
 1” =600gph
 1.5 =1350gph
 2” =2400gph
If we remove that pipe and simply allow water to suck out

of it, the water pressure forcing the water out increases.
That is not typically how we have our bulkheads, and

tends to be the loudest type. However, you will get far more
flow. So let’s imagine we have the following bulkhead
installed into the bottom of a filled aquarium that is 24” tall.
Imagine filling the aquarium up, then opening these bulkheads
installed in the bottom as a drain:
 0.5” = 400gph
 0.75” = 920gph
 1.00” = 1640gph
 1.5” = 3680gph
 2.00” = 6540gph
MASSIVE difference isn’t it?

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So we now know what a bulkhead is, and what their flow
rates are. We also know how large of a hole is needed to
install them. So let’s now take a look at how to drill a glass
aquarium, an acrylic aquarium and a plywood aquarium:
Chapter 6, part 5: Drilling

Drilling a glass aquarium:
Drilling a glass aquarium is not as difficult as it might
seem. Ultimately, we only really need to know if the glass is
tempered or not. As mentioned in a previous chapter:
Knowing if glass is tempered is simple. Grab your camera

and grab a pair of polarized sunglasses. Aim the camera at the
glass, but the glasses in front of the camera. What do you see?
Well, start with a piece that you know is tempered glass; Like
a rear view window on a car. You will see the glass have
many lines thru it. A non-tempered glass will not. You can
also place an LED screen behind the glass, turn it on and then
look at it with polarized sun glasses. If the glass turns out to be
tempered, DO NOT attempt to cut or drill it.
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Once we have established if we can drill the tank or not,
we then only need supplies to do it.
Supplies:
 Diamond coated hole saw
 Power Drill
 Water
 Duct tape
 Guide
 Clamps
Diamond coasted hole saw:

This is actually exactly what it
sounds like. It is a hole saw, lightly
coated in diamonds. The average
around $8-15 each and will easily
drill about 10+ holes.
Power drill: We need a drill

for sure. There is no other way to do it. The hole saw will
simply insert onto the end of the drill. Cordless would be
better as it is best to do this outside if possible.
Water: You need a water source. A bottle of water or

even running water from a hose will be needed.
Duct tape: Typically I don’t like to use duct tape on

aquariums, but given its strength and that fact that it would be
on the tank long will make this ok to use.
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Guide: This is optional, but will make the job easier.
Basically, it’s a thin piece of wood with a hole slightly larger
than the hole saw drilled into it.
Clamps: These will hold the guide in place if you chose

to use it.
Step 1:
With the bulkhead, mark where you want it place. Flip the
bulkhead upside down and trace the neck. Insure placement
allows for the flange of the bulkhead to sit flat on the glass.
Take a strip of duct tape and place under where you want
to drill the glass. This will catch the piece of glass that will be
drilled out and not allow it to free fall potentially cracked the
other side of the aquarium.
Step 2:
Place the guide in place and fill with water. If you do not
use a guide, then start with the hose running a slow flow of
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water over where you would like to drill. It is important to
keep the area running with fresh water.
Step 3:
With the hole saw attached to the dill, lower it into the
guide. Start the drill off slowly not using any pressure. Simply
let the weight of the drill do the work. Allow the drill to spin
at full speed.
If not using a guide, start by drilling at an angle, and then

slowly move the drill upright until it is level with the tank.
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Step 4:
The hole saw will eventually drill all the way through. It
takes about 30 seconds for every 3mm of glass. Once it does
drill all the way through, slowly remove the drill from the
hole.
Remove the tape, and wipe the surface clean.
At this point, you might even want to lightly sand the
inner edges of the hole.
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Drilling an acrylic aquarium
Drilling an acrylic aquarium is much like drilling a

plywood aquarium in that you need the same type of hole saw.
The only difference is you will need a bit of water to keep

the drill cool while drilling into the acrylic to prevent it from
melting.
Supplies:
 Hole saw
 Water
 Drill
Hole saw: The hole saw used is

actually the same one used for wood. These
are easy to find at any hardware store and
cost about $5-20 each.
Water: You need to have water running on the area you

are drilling to prevent the drill from heating up and melting the
acrylic.
Drill: A power drill is a must. It will be impossible to

complete without one.
Step 1:
There is really only one step! Mark where you want the
hole drilled and drills the hole! It’s actually just that simple.
Keep water flowing onto the area to cool the hole saw. You
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might even want to dip the actual hole saw in water every few
minutes. No extra work or prep is needed.
Drilling a plywood aquarium
Do what you did for acrylic, minus the water!
The fact of the matter is this: Drilling acrylic or plywood

requires the same tools. In fact, working with both materials in
any way require almost all of the same tools. So if you are into
carpentry in any way, you might
be leaning towards building an Pro tip #31
acrylic aquarium at this point.
Take care of your hole
saws. They are not
cheap in comparison to
Chapter 6, part 6: what they are. The more
careful you are with
Installing a bulkhead them, the more holes
you will get out of them.
Installing a bulkhead is Especially with diamond
actually extremely easy. Why? coated hole saws, make
sure you drill in
There is only one way to do it. constant clean fresh
Well, one proper way. water.
Now that you have you hole

drilled, we can go ahead and install the bulkhead.
Start off by taking the nut off, but allow the rubber gasket
to remain.
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Insert the bulkhead neck starting from the INSIDE of the
aquarium. The gasket MUST go on the inside of the aquarium
as well.
Once fitted in, simply twist the nut on the outside onto the
neck of the bulkhead.
Hand tighten it as much as you can. If you experience any
leaks, you can give it a 1/4 twist with a wrench. Do not tighten
too much or you will crack the bulkhead. If leaks persist
(which is rare) remove the gasket and simply use silicone.
Then twist the nut back on squeezing out the silicone.
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Chapter 6, part 7:
overflow standpipes and weirs
Before you install your overflow or even drill your
aquarium, you should think about if you are going to have a
weir or not.
What is a weir?
A weir is a barrier between the overflow and the

aquarium. It causes the water to have to travel through it of
above it first in order to get to the overflow.
This controls fish from Pro tip #32

getting sucked down the
overflow, as well as controls When building your
water levels in the tank a lot standpipe, do not cement
more. (When the power goes anything together. You
may want to fine tune the
out, far less water will drain to standpipe for noise and
the sump). Let’s also not forget flow later on. Or you
the surface skimming it does. might want to try a
Removing any built up proteins different style. Either
from the surface of the water way, cementing is simply
not needed.
allowing for great gas exchange
at the surface.
A weir, if colored the same color as the main aquarium

background will also hide all of the plumbing.
The reasons are both practical as well as aesthetical.
So how do you make one?
I like to use acrylic. 6mm is best as it is easy to machine
and not as brittle like thinner thicknesses. Not to mention; cost
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effective. You can buy acrylic or other polycarbonates in
many colors as well. Or you can simply paint it with krylon
fusion for plastic.
To size you weir, you simply need to be able to fit all of

your equipment behind it. Corner weirs are popular and only
require one piece of equipment.
Place your bulk heads in the area you want them to be.
Then draw a straight line from the side of the tank to the back
of the tank on a diagonal. Make sure that the bulk heads stay
behind the line. Give yourself an extra inch to wiggle.
From there, measure that line. That will be the width of

your weir.
The height of the weir is however tall you plan to have
your water, plus an inch. That extra inch will account for the
teeth we need to machine into the top of the weir. To machine
the teeth I recommend a double flute 1/2” router bit.
Route in the teeth spacing no further than 1” apart. Make

them at least 1” deep as well, however I prefer to judge weir
teeth depth based on how high the water level in the aquarium
will be. Your water level in the aquarium, once the pum is
running will rise at least ½” up the weir in most cases. So be
sure to calculate that in.
How many you need, will depend on flow you need to

pass through it. Keeping in mind, that you shoud rate your
weir at least double what you intend to flow through it. If a
gap is ½” wide and 1” tall, it will flow a maximum of 50GPH
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Installing it is as simply as tracing the weir while it is in
place, with a non-permanent marker from the outside of the
aquarium. Then apply silicone to over that line and set in the
weir.
Smoothing the silicone out with your finger like you

would on a glass tank build, will give the weir a much nicer
look.
Now typically, glass does not silicone well to acrylic and
vice versa, however, the bond it does create is strong enough
to hold in in place as it is not under any real pressure.
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With the weir in place, we can let it cure 24hrs, then turn
the pump on. Water will rise up to the weir teeth and then start
flowing over. With only a bulkhead in place, the water will
splash down to the bulkhead. This makes for a noisy overflow.
However, as soon as we add in a standpipe into the

bulkhead, and set it to be 1” shorter than the weir, the water
then only has 1” to travel, meaning it will be much quieter.
When the power shuts off, water stops being pumped to
the main aquarium. The remaining water in the aquarium will
drain down until it is level with the bottom of the teeth. That
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amount of water is generally minimal. For example, on a 55
gallon tank, it would only be 1 gallon.
You can also create much more visually appeasing weirs

by molding them. Like this one I made here:
To mold the weir, we will preheat our over to 400F and

line a cookie sheet with tin foil, then place the acrylic on top.
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Pop it in the oven and wait 10 minutes. Check on it and
see if it is able to freely bend yet. If not, wait a while longer.
Keep checking though as this is flammable.
Once it is ready to be molded, you can take it out and

either mold it by hand (which is highly inaccurate) or simply
place it over something like a large pipe and fold it over it.
Hold it in place for at least 3 minutes as it cools down.
Wear protective gloves of some sort to protect your hands

the entire time. The acrylic is HOT.
So we know what a weir is, but now we will look at

standpipe types.
Hobbyists are extremely creative when it comes to

standpipes, there is a massive selection to choose from, but we
will just take a look at one for now. Overflows standpipes are
all pretty much the same except for the top of them. The goal
is to simply cut down on the suction noise, while not cutting
down on water flow.
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A good example of this is a standpipe with two elbows on
the top forming a “U”. With the U pointing down, there is no
suction noise, however, we need to be able to push the air out
of this U or water can simply not flow up it.
To do so, drilling a hole in the top of it is needed.

We can form this overflow with 2 elbows, or an elbow
and a “T”.
The placement of the hole is needs to be at the top of the

loop or in the cap of a T. Notice that the water will rise up the
standpipe until it reach the U. Once it does, air is push out of
the hole and water can start to overflow down.
The standpipe does NOT need to be cemented together.

This will allow for adjustment.
If using this style standpipe with the weir, then you

should make sure the BOTTOM of the U shape is at least 1”
below the bottom of the teeth of the weir.
Here they are side by side:
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CHAPTER 7
Lighting
Strong LED lighting
Lighting is hugely popular in the aquarium hobby for

obvious reasons: We need to be
able to see the fish, or we need to Pro tip #33
grow something in the aquarium!
Compare whatever light
Lighting requirements can you have planned, to a
store bought model of
be broken into 3 aspects that and similar specs; you will
aquarist is looking to accomplish: notice you are probably
saving hundreds of
 They want the best dollars. Sometimes, for
smaller fixtures, it is
lighting for their fish to cheaper to buy store
display their best in bought. So be sure to
compare your total costs
 The have a planted prior to building.
aquarium
 They have a reef
aquarium
So depending on what you are looking to do, these do not

all require the same sort of lighting.
For example, to simply display their fish to their
advantage, we don’t really need a lot of light, but rather the
right color spectrum for that fish to look its best.
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A fish might look drab and colorless under one color of
light, yet look spectacular under another.
We simply cannot use the same light on a planted tank as

we do on a reef either.
So what do we need and what do we build it out of?

Well, over the last few years, LED lighting has made a
massive impact on the hobby to the point that it is now the
first thing considered.
Why?
They last forever! Most LED lights tend to last for up to

50,000 hours. Now imagine your lights are only on for 8 hours
a day on average. That would mean your LED would last
upwards of 17 years!
LEDs are also fully customizable. There are so many

options for colors, controllers, dimmers, etc... There is not a
whole lot that you can’t customize!
LED’s use less power. Over the course of a few years, the
power savings alone pay for the light. How much less power?
Well that would depend on the light you had before and the
type of LED you are using. However, it’s safe to say they will
use 1/4 - 1/2 of what you were using before. Maybe you only
save $5-10 a month. Well, 5 years later that is $3-600. I have
personally found my saving to be much more.
So with the LEDs longevity, power savings and

customizability; is it any wonder that this is what we will be
focusing on?
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LED’s have come a LONG way. To the point that you
don’t actually need to know much about them at all. In fact, at
one point you would need to know a little electrical to be able
to even consider building a light. Now, there are even options
to not even need to solder them like you once had to.
Not having to solder is what turned me on to building my

own LED lights.
Solderless LEDs are what I’m going to show you how to

build.
First, let’s take a look at what you will need depending on

your aquarium.
A very common set of questions are:
 How many LEDs do I need?

 How many watts do I need?
 What colors do I need?
Well, sizing your light fixture used to be pretty simple,

but with LEDs being so new, it is still being discovered what
works best. However, we will take a look at the most often
used and accepted arrangements.
Typically speaking, we will want to be using 5 watt

LEDs. However, watts do not mean a whole lot with LEDs as
they are not all made the same nor have the same PAR ratings.
We can still set a rule of thumb based on what we know works
though.
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We will set the following rules of thumb:
 ratio of color
 Watts per square foot
A planted aquarium:
 cool white = x3
 neutral = x2
 deep red = x1
30 watts per square foot.
So what this means is we need a total of 30 watts for

every 12”x12” section of the tank.
The colors mean that for every 3 cool white, you should
be using 2 neutral white and 1 deep red.
This spectrum of lighting, plants do best at.

You will want to also install a dimmable driver as well to
be able to control the intensity of the light.
A fish only aquarium:
So here, we can do whatever we like. There is no rule;

however you don’t need to use a ton of LEDs. I would suggest
10 watts per square foot being best.
For colors, I like to use a wide spectrum to cover

everything.
330
This is my ideal fish only lighting:
 Neutral white x 3
 Warm white X 1
 Deep red X 1
 Royal blue X 1
This covers a massive color spectrum and will make

almost any fishes color pop!
A Reef aquarium:
This is where LED’s are actually having the most success

in the hobby. With that said, we can use a lot of data already
known and put it towards our own lights.
A dimmer is needed for sure on this set up so as to be able

to control the intensity. Just like a planted aquarium, not all
coral have the same lighting requirements.
Most commonly used:
 Cool white X 2
 Deer red X 1
 Green X 1
 Blue X 2
 Royal blue X 2
70 watts per square foot is also needed as a guideline.
So again, these colors are simply samples of the ratio

needed, not the exact number.
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Putting each color on a dimmer will also grant you a
massive amount of control.
So now that we have a good idea of what is required, let’s

take a look at some basic supplies we will need. There is a
massive selection of retailers online that sell these supplies, so
use whoever you feel is best. Personally, I use rapidled.com (I
have no connection with them; I simply just like using them as
they have what I need). Plus they are a ton of help when
placing your order.
Supplies:
 Solderless CREE LED's

 LED lens
 LED to LED wire
 LED plug
 thermal adhesive
 heat sink
 dimmable driver
 Driver jumper
 Fan
Solderless LED: The solderless

LED is a basic LED but instead of
needing to solder wires in place, they
simply snap into place. Now the cost
does go up slightly, but only by a few
dollars. What we are looking for is CREE LEDs. These will
cost less than $5 each.
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LED lens: Using a lens will
help get you more out of the LED
by spreading the light out, or
concentrating it in one place. This
simply glue right over the LED.
These only cost about $1 each.
LED to LED wire: This will

connect each LED to each other in a
string of lights. They are color coded
and easy to use. They simply slide
into the LED connector. These only
cost $0.25 each for up to 6” in length,
which is more than enough.
LED plug: Once you reach

the end of your strip you are
making, you need to cap it off
to close the circuit. We do this
with a plug. It will snap into the
last LED in the line. The only
cost $0.75
Thermal Adhesive: We use this to glue the LED’s to the

heat sink when ready. It is similar
to an epoxy where you need to
mix the 2 parts to create the
adhesive. This costs $7. One
container will do at least 50 LEDs.
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Heat sink: This is
what your LED’s will
attach to. It is designed to
pull heat away from the
LEDs, extending their
life. While LEDs do not
get very hot, it is still
needed. These costs based
on size, but on average 6”X10” (which can hold as many as
20-40 LEDs) will cost about $20.
Dimmable driver: The

driver is what powers the LEDs.
Having a dimmer on it will also
help control the intensity of the
lights. The cost will vary, as
there are different sizes. An
example would be that a
dimmable driver capable of
running 10 LEDs would cost around $30
Driver jumper: The driver

jumper is what connects the LED’s
to the Driver. A simply and cheap
material that is a must, for obvious
reasons. Costing about $1 per foot.
Fan: Now depending on the size

of your setup, you will need a fan
installed on the top of your heat sink
to help pull heat away from the
LEDs as well. Typically this is
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always needed for any set up with an LED every square inch.
Costs will vary depending on size of fan.
Step 1:
The first step is getting the LEDs that you want connected
to the same driver, lined up properly. The benefit here is they
all just have to be facing the same way.
Using your LED to LED wire, you can start connecting

them. Since the wires are red and black, connect them
accordingly to the color. For example, if you start by using the
black wire as the bottom wire, they all need to use it as the
bottom wire.
The only thing we need to make sure of is that the LEDs

are all faceing up or all facing down.
Since the wire simply slides into the LED, there is

nothing more to do than to connect them all with it.
You can mismatch colors of keep all colors to a single

row. That is up to you.
Notice in the photo, the LED is facing upwards, with the

same color on each side on the top and bottom. In this case the
left side has a black on bottom and so does the right side.
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Step 2:
Cap the last LED in the string off with the LED cap. It
slides in just like all of the other wires did.
Step 3:
Connect the driver jumper to the driver. Using a screw
driver, remove the plate that the dimmer is running into.
You will notice a positive and negative terminal available.

Using the exposed wire portion of the jumper; insert the black
wire into the negative terminal and the red wire into the
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positive terminal. Then screw in and replace the driver cover
plate.
Step 4:
On the other end of the driver jumper cable, there is a
plug just like the LED to LED wire. Insert that plug into the
first LED of the string. (The opposite end of the LED with the
plug)
Now you can test the LED’s by plugging the driver in and
seeing if the lights come on. Since this is a simple process, not
a whole lot can go wrong, so the lights will turn on. Now test
the dimmer and make sure it controls the lights.
If you are satisfied with its functionality, we can move
onto the next step.
Step 5:
Now we can install the lights onto the heat sink. We will
be installing the lights onto the flat portion, so make sure it is
on the right side. (The fins on the back act to pull heat away
from the LEDs)
Pre-mix you’re adhesive by placing a 50/50 mix onto a

disposable surface. (A plastic lid works fine.)
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Mix it up thoroughly with the small plastic tool it comes
with. You will have about 5-10 minutes of working time, so
only mix as much as you need.
Dap a small amount onto the BACK of an LED and set it

in place on the heat sink. Only apply as much pressure to
firmly secure it.
Repeat this step until all LEDs are in place.

Placement of the LEDs should be mixed for an even
distribution of light spectrum.
At this point, you may also attach your lenses. Simply

glue them in place with a tiny bit of adhesive as well.
At this point, we will wait a full 24 hours for the adhesive
to cure.
Once that time passes, we can check each LED and lens
to see if it is secured.
If not, apply more adhesive to it again.
We can now move onto the last step, which will be
optional.
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Step 6:
At this point, we can slide in an LED protector. This is
simply a thin sheet of acrylic that slides right onto the heat
sink. These are needed if your aquarium is not covered.
It is also time to figure out how you will position the light
over the aquarium. Most people like to suspend their light
using simple wire suspension kits, while other like to secure
them to the tops of their canopies. Some even like to simply
place them directly on top of their lids.
Personally, I like to buy a cheap suspension kit and hang it

from my ceiling:
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Cheap LED lighting
So LED lighting, in general is typically not a cheap lighting

source. In the long run, it certainly is, due to its efficiency.
However, up-front costs can be pretty high.
Some people simply want the look and power savings of LED
lighting, but don’t want to spend a lot of money.
So, if you want a great alternative for LED lighting, then this
project is for you!
This project would more so be used just to light your tank. It is

not strong enough to grow plants or coral.
The benefits of this light are certainly appealing though:
 Very low cost ($25 total)

 Highly customizable
 Easy to build
 Very low power consumption
Over the last few years, LED lighting has become extremely
popular. So popular that it is being used for pretty much
everything.
The benefit to that is that you can by LEDs in almost every

color, option, size and price range.
LED “strips” has been becoming more and more popular over
the last couple of years. These strips are simply low powered
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LEDs laid down in a silicone casing. This is exactly what we
will be using.
eBay is probably one of the best sources to get these lights.

For around $15-20 you can get almost any length of LEDs in a
strip. (With free shipping!)
The LED strip we will want to use is:
“RGB 5050 SMD waterproof LED Light Strip Flexible +

IR Remote 12V power”
Let’s break that down though, so we understand what it all

means.
RGB = Red, Green, Blue.

Meaning these LEDs will cover a full color spectrum.
5050 = 50mm X 50mm

This is the size of the actual LED. Their power consumption is
0.24 watts each at around 12V.
SMD = Surface mount device.

Essentially meaning that this strip is meant to be mounted onto
a surface. (stuck to one)
Waterproof = waterproof
Obviously speaks for itself. While the casing itself is
completely water proof due to it being made out of a silicone,
the ends are not as this is where the connection are.
LED Light Strip Flexible = Speaks for itself.

The LEDs are incased in a silicone strip, making them highly
flexible.
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IR Remote = Infra-red remote.
A wireless remote to control the LED’s will come with it.
12V power = Comes with a power supply.
So now that we understand this type of LED lighting, let’s get

started with the build:
Supplies:
 LED kit
 Plastic rain gutter
 2 rain gutter end caps
 Electrical tape
 Drill and hacksaw
LED kit:
Your kit will contain (If bought on eBay by searching the
exact name mentioned previously) Will contain; wireless
remote, control box, LED roll and power supply.
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Plastic rain gutter:
PVC or vinyl rain gutter will be
needed to act as the housing for
the LED light. Generally
speaking a 10 foot piece would
only cost around $5. We are
using rain gutter because it is the
perfect shape for a light. It is also light weight, cheap and
highly impact resistant. This makes for a great housing for a
light.
Rain gutter end caps:

You will need 2 of these to cover
the end of the gutter so light does
not escape and it gives the light a
more finished look.
Feel free to paint the outside of
the light black or any color you
want to better match you
aquarium furniture.
Electrical tape:
A roll of tape will be needed to help better
secure the LED light to the gutter. While
electrical tape works well, there are many
options of tape you can use. Which type will
not matter as long as it is strong and sticks
well.
Drill and hacksaw:

While there are many tools you can use for this project, these
are the two I used to drill some holes in the gutter as well as
cut it in half.
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Step 1:
Start by cutting the gutter to the length of your aquarium. You
will want it to be slightly shorter than the aquarium so as to
allow the end caps to be placed on later on.
Step 2:
Drill a few holes in a row in one of the end caps to make a big
enough hole for the LED strip to slide through. This will allow
the strip to come out of the end cap and not have to bend
around the bottom of the cap and have the entire light sitting
on the strip.
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Step 3:
Fit end caps onto the gutter.
Step 4:
Slide led strip through the holes in the end cap. The end piece
where the strip connects to the control box should only be
hanging out of the box slightly.
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Step 5:
Your LED strip might be too long. So cutting it will need to be
something to consider.
To cut the light, you MUST cut along one of the designated
areas.
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Step 6:
You can now remove the adhesive back ground of the strip
and apply it down the middle of the gutter.
Place the first LED as close to the end cap as possible to allow
for full lighting coverage.
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If your LED strip cannot be cut at the exact end of the gutter,
it is ok to allow the strip to bend up the cap as it is a very
flexible strip.
With your electrical tape, seal off the end of the strip where it
enters the gutter. This will help prevent light from escaping
and leaking into the room.
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While the LEDs do not get hot, they do get warm. This
warmth will eventually slowly allow the glue on the LEDs to
soften and let go. So applying some tape every so often along
the strip will help prevent them from falling off.
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Step 7:
Finally, you can place your new light onto you aquarium.
Plug the strip into the control box, the control box into the
power supply, then the power supply into your wall. The
remote control will turn the lights on and off.
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The LED light provides ample coverage and lighting for your
aquarium.
The remote will allow you to do many things, including

dimming and brightening the light.
You can change colors and even create your own.
You may want to consider lining the gutter with a reflective

tape to get more light reflection into the aquarium; however I
find the white gutter does a good job with that.
You might also want to buy 2-3Xs the length of your tank and
simply run the LED strip back and forth a few times in the
gutter. This will make the LED light 2-3Xs more powerful!
To figure out how many watts of power this is using, simply

count the LEDs that are lit on the light and multiply that by
0.24.
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Cheap Fluorescent lighting
When it comes to fluorescent lighting for your aquarium, there

really isn’t any other light that is more proven or time tested.
The range of color spectrums you can get in a bulb, their

common availability and their effectiveness make them a
popular option.
For the most part though, I do not see any reason to buy one…
Or even build one.
For the most part, we can just “repurpose” fluorescent lighting

that is already available.
A very popular choice for that is “shop lights”
For about $20 you can buy the entire lighting system. It will
include the house, ballast, ed caps and all wiring. The best
part? It will come assembled!
Just add the bulbs you really
want to use in it!
Shop lights can sit on top of

your tank:
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Or even be hung from above
with an included hanging kit.
Really, all you need is a couple

of bulbs from the pet store that
are color rated for aquariums.
With that said, you can actually just pick up a couple of bulbs
yourself for a lot less from the hardware store if you
understand color temperatures. Ideally, almost any aquarium
would look best under 6500K (which is considered
“daylight”). Buying them like this will save you a lot more
money than buy from a pet store as well. Instead of $20-30 a
bulb, you only pay $5 for 2!
Shop lights come in two options, 1 bulb or 2 bulbs set up.

While 1 bulb will be good for most uses, if you plan to grow
plants, consider 2 bulbs.
Once you have your light ready, feel free to spray paint it the
color you want!
In the end, buying everything like this will be cheaper than

building.
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CHAPTER 8
Equipment
Gravel vacuum
Gravel vacuums have been in the hobby for a very long
time. Their main purpose is to simply keep your aquarium
clean in between water changes.
They are similar to a regular vacuum on a carpet floor.

Removing debris as it is moved back and forth over the
substrate. The difference is that is also can burrow down into
the substrate to give it a thorough cleaning.
Between water changes and regular maintenance, fish

waste and food will build up in the aquarium. This project will
come in especially useful for people with messy fish or that
tend to overfeed.
This will lead to a cleaner aquarium over all.
Supplies:
 Water bottle
 Airline tubing
 Air stone
 Mesh bag
 Elastic
 Air pump
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Water bottle: A basic 500ml
water bottle is all that is needed. There
is no advantage with going any larger.
In fact, the larger you go, the less
suction you will obtain. A 500ml
bottle tends to be the perfect size.
Airline tubing: You basic

aquarium airline tubing is all that is
needed. You won’t need much. Only
enough to run from the air pump to
anywhere in the aquarium.
Air stone: A regular size air stone is all

you will need for this project.
Mesh bag: This will be used to collect the debris from

within the aquarium. It will need to be a fine mesh. Even using
a piece of panty hose/legging will work will. Just cut off the
“foot” part of it and us that.
Elastic: Basic elastic is all that we need to hold the mesh

bag in place.
Air pump: Almost every hobbyist has one. The stronger

the better! You don’t need to run out and buy a new one, as we
will only need it for about 5-10 minutes a week. You can
simply unplug it from regular use to use with this vacuum.
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Step 1:
Start off but cutting the bottom of the bottle off.
Step 2:
Drill or cut a small hole large enough to slip the airline
into the side of the bottle. This hole should be positioned as
close to the cut off bottom as possible.
Step 3:
Insert the air stone onto the hose on the inside of the
bottle.
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Step 4:
Remove the cap from the bottle and cover the top with the
mesh in a way so that it will catch the debris in is bag shape.
Secrue in place by wrapping the neck of the bottle with the
elastic.
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Step 4:
Attach air line hose to air pump.
Step 5:
Now it is ready for use. Submerged the bottle in water and
turn the airpump on. As the bubbles rise, they cause suction
behind them.
That suction will be at the opening of the bottle you cut
out. Those bubbles and suction will cause any debris to rise up
the bottle and be trapped in the mesh bag. Rince the bag after
use. Do this as often as you feel it is needed. This entire
project will cost under $5 if you already have the pump.
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Water changer
Changing your aquarium water with buckets and hose is a

thing of the past. It is no
longer practical for
aquariums larger than 10 Pro tip #34
gallons.
For around $15, this project will
be one of your most used
Water changers have projects. It will not only save you
taken their place. time, but it also puts less stress on
the fish or plants by not dumping
The plus side is that in buckets of water continuously.
they complete a water That time saved = more time to
enjoy your aquarium!
change much faster and
easier than before,
without disturbing the
fish. The down side is that they tend to waste a lot of water.
Another down side is that for such a simple contraption,

yet highly practical and needed; it simply costs too much to
buy new, when building it costs a fraction of the cost.
Buying a 50 foot version of this will general cost around

$70. Yet we can build one the same size that will do an
identical job for $15
Supplies:
 blue magic waterbed drain and fill kit

 50 foot garden hose
 Water bottle
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Blue magic waterbed drain and
fill kit: This is actually the most
important part to the kit. Notice it is
identical to what you will find in a
water changer at the pet store? This one
is blue though and only costs $5. You
can find it at Wal-Mart or most
hardware stores.
Garden hose: A cheap garden

hose on sale is all we need for this.
Nothing fancy, we will be cutting it
anyways. Running hot water through it
will clear out any dust or residues. I
would not pay more than $10 for this.
Water bottle: A regular

500ml water bottle will be needed
for this project.
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Step 1:
Cut off the bottom of the bottle.
Step 2:
Cut off the male threaded end of the garden hose.
Insure you cut off the right end. Note in the picture, that
the end that will attach to the faucet is still intact.
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Step 3:
Cut a hole in the bottle cap large enough to fit the water
hose into it snuggly.
Step 4:
Attach drain and fill kit to the faucet.
Followed by attaching the female end of the hose.
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HOW DOES IT WORK
The drain and fill kit has two functions; it can drain the
aquarium, and it can fill it.
By simply pulling down on the kit, and turning the faucet

on, the water pressure from the water causes suction on the
side exit. That suction causes water to be drawn from the
aquarium and into the sink.
The bottle on the end of the hose acts like a gravel

vacuum at the same time. While it also act as a barrier to stop
fish from getting sucked in.
To fill the tank back up, we simply close the bottom of

the drain kit and water starts to flow out of the side exit, down
the hose and back to the aquarium.
Co2
Understanding why plants need Co2
The addition of Co2 to any planted aquarium will show

almost immediate results. Almost any lush planted aquarium
has Co2 addition in some form.
Plants have 3 essential needs for growth:
 Light
 Water
 Carbon
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How does it all work though? Well, we have all heard of
photosynthesis. A simple way of looking at that is this: Plants
take in light energy and use it to convert carbon and water into
glucose and oxygen. The plant then uses that glucose and
minerals for growth. IN the aquarium, we provide carbon in
the form of carbon dioxide.
OR
6CO2 + 6H2O C6H12O6 + 6O2
Understanding how Co2 reacts in water
Air consists of 0.03% of carbon dioxide. Water will be in

equilibrium with the air and
also have 0.03% carbon Pro tip #35
dioxide. Plants living in water
have carbon dioxide much less Since there is no realistic
available than it is for emerged way to stop DIY Co2
plants. This is because carbon production;
dioxide diffuses 10,000 faster A good method at
countering night time
in the air than in water. For the production of Co2 when
aquarium plant, this means that the plants are not using it,
as the surrounding Co2 is used, and to avoid Co2
it is replaced in that same water poisoning of your fish, it is
at a MUCH slower rate than it best to install an aquarium
air pump on a timer, to
would be above the water. come on an hour before
However, if we the lights go off and turn
continuously pump Co2 into off 30 minutes after they
the water and diffuse it, that come back on. This will
process of replacing the used up aid in gassing off the C02
that is not being used at
Co2 happens much faster.
night.
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How to create Co2
We can artificially create Co2 with sugar and yeast.
Yeast is actually alive. It is a single cell organism which

is actually a form of fungi.
Yeast gets its food from simple sugars.

Yeast enzymes break down the sugars into products that
the cell can use.
The breaking down of those sugars is called fermentation.
As a by-product, alcohol and carbon dioxide are produced.
The yeasts we use are in a dormant state. When we add
hot water, they become active. Once they become active, they
need a food source. This is where the sugar comes in. We
basically feed the yeast the sugar. As they break it down and
Co2 is created, it bubbles and attempts to leave the fluid by the
bubble bursting at the surface. This is because water can only
hold so much Co2 at once.
That bubble that bursts at the surface is all Co2. We need
to then get that Co2 we just created into the water for the
plants.
So we need to build a contraption of some sort, to not
only produce the Co2, but separate it from that liquid (contains
alcohol), and then get it into the aquarium.
This task is actually extremely simple and easy to do. Not
to mention; cheap. In fact, you probably already have
everything you need to do this.
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Building the reactor:
So now that we understand why plants need Co2, how
Co2 reacts in water and how to create Co2; we can now move
onto building the reactor.
Supplies:
 3 water bottles
 Baker’s yeast
 Sugar
 water
 Airline hose
 Check valve
3 water bottles: Basic water

bottles with their caps are all that
will be needed. We can use any
size.
Baker’s yeast: Also known as active

yeast. This comes in many different brands;
we just need to make sure it is baker’s
yeast. Cost is actually minimal. You should
not expect to pay more than $2-3 for a few
small packets.
Sugar: Just some regular household sugar is needed.

Nothing specific.
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Water: Some tap water will do. We will be heating it, so
you don’t need to treat it.
Airline hose: A few feet of

aquarium airline hose are all that will be
needed.
Check valve: Any style airline check valve is fine. We

use this to allow air to pass in one way, but
not the other. This is a must have.
Step 1:
Start off by drilling holes in the caps of the water bottles.
These holes should be slightly smaller than airline tubing. You
will need 1 hole in two of the bottles and 3 holes in one of the
bottles.
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Step 2: Insert airline hose into all of the caps. The hose
only needs to be pushed through by about an inch. The hose
should create its own seal, however, to make sure it is air tight,
we can add a dab of silicone around the hose and hole.
Step 3:
Connect the bottles with airline hose as shown in the
photo.
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The two bottles on the left will act as the reactor. This is
where our mixture will go. They both lead to the bottle on the
right. The bottle on the right acts as a gas separator.
As the pressure builds up in the first two bottles, that Co2

gets pushed out of the tops of the first two bottles and into the
last.
To insure no liquids get pushed with it, the last bottle

makes sure that if any liquid does; it can simply collect in that
bottle and not reach the aquarium.
As pressure builds up in the last bottle, that Co2 will then

be pushed into the aquarium via the last airline tube.
The check valve is installed onto this tube so that Co2 can
be pushed through it, but if the pressure stops, water cannot
come back out of the main tank through it.
To diffuse the Co2 in the aquarium, there are many

options. All you need to do is make sure the bubbles produces
are chopped up very fine or that the bubbles are held under the
water long enough to diffuse.
A good option here is to connect the airline to a filter or

power head, and let them do the work for you.
Step 4:
A base is optional.
I created my base by using a simple 2X4 cut to the length

of the 3 bottles. I then used a wood hole saw and drilled out 3
holes the size of the bottom of the bottles. I then painted it
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black for a nicer look. This not only keeps my bottles upright,
but looks nice as well.
Creating the Co2
Mix per 1L (1000ml) of bottle:
 Mix 1 cup of water with 1 cup of sugar.

 Mix 1/8 tablespoon of water with 1/8 tablespoon of
104F water
 Allow yeast and warm water a few minutes to activate.
 Mix everything together in bottle and shake it a few
times.
Co2 will start to generate and bubble within 24hrs or less.

Shaking it will help the process move along faster.
 Mix is good for 1-2 weeks.
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 For every 10 gallons of water, you will need 1L of
mix.
 When bubbles Co2 is no longer being produced,
replace the mix.
 This is good for up to a 40 gallon aquarium (using two
2L bottles to produce the Co2)
Algae scrubber
Algae are typically viewed as a pest in the home

aquarium. However, it is actually one of nature’s very own
methods of filtration. As a hobbyist, we simply don’t want our
water turning green, or have algae running wild in our
aquariums. Algae still is hugely beneficial to our aquariums
though.
So what is an algae
scrubber? It is a way to grow
Pro tip #36
algae in a concentrated area
that will enable us to still have
Putting your algae
the benefits of having it in the scrubber on a light on a
aquarium. timer will make the entire
filter automatic. You could
What will algae do for us? also place a sticky note on
the outside stating the last
It will act like a sponge,
time you cleaned it. This
absorbing and using up the will help give you an idea
nitrates and phosphates in your on how fast your algae are
aquarium water. This means growing.
water changes can technically
be done less as there will not
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be any nitrates to remove. Zero nitrates mean happier fish.
Nitrates act as a growth inhibitor and have been shown to
cause stress on your fish.
With the benefits of having algae in your aquarium
obvious, how do we go about growing it in a concentrated
area?
With an algae scrubber.
In this section we will take a look at:
 supplies needed
 how to build an algae scrubber
 how and why it works
This entire build will only cost $20-25
Supplies:
 Plastic bins
 Air stone
 Zip ties
 Airline suction cups
 Plastic knitting mesh
 Light source
Plastic bins: You will need at

least 1 plastic bin. The size will depend
on how large of a scrubber you are
making. We will cover size later on. I
got these for $1 each.
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Air stone: You
will need a long air
stone. The size will
need to be the same as
the inside width of the
bin. Costing about
$0.50
Zip ties: You will

need at least 6 zip ties.
You can buy a lot for
$1
Airline suction
cups: For this project,
I used 4 of these. They
are pretty common and
are typically used to
hold down 1/4” airine
hose. They run about
$0.15 each.
Plastic knitting
mesh: Found at most
craft stores or fabric
store, you will need a
bit of this. A sheet
only costs $1
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Light source: I used a
common desk lamp as it
only cost me $7. I also
used a CFL bulb due to its
low wattage use. You can
use what ever you feel best
suits your aquarium.
Step 1:
Start by cutting the bin. You will only need the bottom
half. The size should only be about 50% wide than the
airstone.
Step 2:
We can now drill the holes. These holes will be used for
various purposes, which you will find out in later steps.
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Reading this whole project first will shed light into where
the holes will go.
Step 3:
Cut out your mesh to the inside dimentions of the bin. It
doesn’t not need to be as long. The air stone will need about
1/2” of clearance below it once attached, so we need to take
that into account.
Using sand paper, rough up the mesh as much as you can.

This will give the algae a better surface to adhere to.
Notch out the top and bottom of the mesh to make way
for zip ties.
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Step 4:
Attach the airstone to the bottom of the mesh with zip
ties. This should be centered with the mesh.
Step 5:
Attach the mesh with zip ties into the top of the bin.
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Step 6:
We can now use the suction cups to attach to the side of
the bin. Using zip ties, you can thread them into holes in the
side of the bin.
Insire the suction cups point forward, away from the

opening of the bin.
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Step 7:
Attach airline hose to the airstone. This airline can simply
lead throgh the side of the bin in one of the drilled holes.
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Step 8:
Attach the algae scrubber to the inside of the aquarium
with the suction cups. Once installed, turn the air pump on.
Step 9:
We can now light the scrubber using whatever lighting
you decided on.
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In this example, we are just showing how it all goes
together. The scrubber is way too oversized for this aquarium.
HOW IT WORKS
The light causes algae to grow on the mesh. As we turn

the air pump on, it causes aquarium to flow over the mesh. As
water flows over it, the algae filter the water of nitrates and
phosphates.
Sizing the filter:

A 3x3 (inch) section of mesh will generally be good for
aquariums up to 50 gallons with moderate stocking.
Lighting period:
Lighting period will be based on what you find is best for
growing the algae. Typically, 14-18 hour lighting periods are
best.
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Start up:
Algae growth can appear in as little as 3-5 days. We can
speed this up by rubbing algae from the aquarium onto it.
However, overall growth and speed of it will depend on
available nitrate within the aquarium.
Maintenance:
Once a month, it will be best to scrap off the old algae
from the mesh with some sort of squeegee or even a plastic
card. This will insure only the healthiest and most productive
algae grow.
That’s it! You now have taken advantage of one of

nature’s natural filters!
Aquarium chiller
Aquarium chillers can be an extremely useful item for

your aquarium. Some hobbyists live in areas where it might
get very hot in certain months, which could pose a problem to
their aquarium.
Aquarium chillers are a luxury item in the hobby. They

are extremely expensive, even at smaller sizes. However, they
can be a must have item for some aquarist who struggle with
their aquarium temperatures getting too high.
I’m going to show you a project that you can do at home
that will not only work well, but look good, be functional and
cost effective.
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The chiller I will show you can be connected to your
aquarium, or run on your sump. Smaller chillers start around
$500 for a chiller rated for a 50 gallon aquarium.
This project will only cost around $100 for the same size
tank, and use less power.
More so, this project will serve to inspire you and get you
thinking about different ways you can cool your water.
In this section, I will show:
 Supplies needed
 How to build it
 How it works
Supplies needed:
 Mini fridge
 Hose
 Spade drill
 Pump
Mini fridge: Obviously, this is the most important aspect

of the build. With that said, they are cheap. Even new, they are
less than $100. However, you can pick up a second hand one
for around $30. Almost all of them are rated the same. The
one I bought runs at 90 watts. Try to find one that might match
your décor or stand. Maybe even paintable so you can change
its appearance.
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Hose: Whatever type of house you get; get a LOT. I went
with basic garden hose. After a quick rinse, it was safe to use.
I chose garden hose because it is rigid, has good thermal
properties, and was cheap! I pick up two 50 foot hoses for a
total of $15!! That’s 100 feet total!
The diameter of the hose should be as small as you can
go, while still allowing it to connect to your pump.
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Spade drill: Get a good one. One rated to drill through
metal. We will need to drill two holes in the fridge. The size of
the spade should be either exactly or slightly smaller than the
diameter of the hose. This will set you back around $5
Pump: You will need a water pump rated at around 200-

250 gallons per hour. If you plan to pump water back to your
aquarium, then you will need a regular utility pump. If you
plan to run it off your sump, all you need is a good power
head! A small pump should only run you around $30 or so,
while a power head should only be around $15 or so.
So total, we are only $85-100 for this build. Maybe a bit
more or less depending on what you end up buying.
Step 1:
Start by removing everything out of the fridge. Remove
the grating, and any small doors inside. Most mini fridges will
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have a small “freezer” inside. Remove the door from it, but
leave the rest. We only want to remove the door from it to
allow for more circulation of the cold air. DO NOT alter the
freezer tray as this is what produces the cold air.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
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Step 2:
Test fit the hose. If use garden hose, don’t bother unraveling
it. It is better just to leave it alone and not cause any kinks.
Plus, its already nicely coiled for you.
Step 3:
Now prepare the hose. Start by cutting off one end of each
hose. Cut off opposite connectors. We need to still be able to
connect the hoses in the middle. If you only have one long
hose, you can simply cut off both ends.
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Then connect the two hoses in the middle.
Step 4:
Using your spade drill, drill the holes where you want the
hose to enter and exit. Location doesn’t matter as long as you
don’t go through the back or top of the fridge. This will
general be harder to work around and more risk of hitting
something you don’t want to hit!
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Step 5:
Slide the hoses through the holes. Since you used a spade
drill that was slightly smaller than these holes, getting the hose
through will be a snug fit. The reason for this is so that the
hoses create a seal on themselves so no cold air escapes the
fridge.
If you notice it is a loose fit, fill free to silicone them in place.
You can even use some expanding foam to help insulate
that area. While not needed, and will drive over all costs up,
the benefits of it are slightly better than silicone.
INSIDE
OUTSIDE
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Notice the thermostat is still intact and the “freezer” is
still fully functional. It is only now ventilated and the colder
air can freely pass through the whole
fridge.
Step 6:
So now this is where YOU get creative. Every aquarium
is unique. You might not want a pump inside your aquarium,
so you decide to plumb the pum “inline” outside of the tank
and simply make a couple of PVC intake and output for the
chiller.
Maybe you don’t mind an extra pump in the tank and you
just run a pump down to the chiller and the output hose back
up to the tank.
Ultimately, this is easiest and cheapest if you are running
it to a sump. This way you only need to use a cheap and low
powered power head or small pump.
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What I also like to do is on the output hose, I connect a
ball valve so I can control the flow. This is basically a must to
be able to control the temperature more precisely. The
thermostat in the fridge will help with that as well.
HOW IT WORKS:
Turn the fried on, and let it run on its own for at least 24
hours. This will get the fridge ready for use.
Water will be pumped into the fridge through the hose and
back out to the tank.
Water is cooled because of the time it spends in the

fridge. The more hose you have in the fridge, the longer the
water will be in contact with the cool air and the cooler the
output of the water will be.
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To control temperature, changes must be monitored over
time, until you get the right temperature of the tank. By simply
turning down the flow of the pump, you cool the water.
Turning it up, warms the water.
You might also find playing around with the thermostat

useful as well. This style cooler will be good for tanks up to
50 gallons. However, that will also depend on just how cool
you need your water to be. This might work on larger setups.
This same idea can be applied to “mini deep freeze”

fridges and even full size.
While this idea will work to cool down a tropical

aquarium, don’t expect to start keep “true” cold water fish
with this.
Dosing system
A dosing system allows you to dose trace elements,

fertilizers, supplements and any other liquid to your aquarium.
It does so in small set amounts at set times of the day.
The problem with these is they are easy to make for a
fraction of the cost.
Many planted aquarium and reef owners dose their
aquariums on a daily basis. Some rely on a dosing system to
do it for them, while others manually dose daily.
Manually dosing does not off a lot of consistency though.
There are times you might miss a dose, or simply not be able
to dose at the same time every day. This is where a dosing
system comes in handy.
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A dosing system consists of two main components:
 A dosing container
 A dosing pump
Both are typically sold separately. Purchased, this will run

you are $200.
The one I will show you how to build will only cost you
less than $30.
We will cover this in 3 sections:
 Supplies needed
 How to build one
 How it works
Supplies needed:
 Timer
 Airline hose
 Container
 Airline ball valves
 Aqua-Lifter Dosing Pump
 Silicone
Timer: A cheap timer is all that is

needed here. One that will allow you to
switch it on and off by the minute. Typically,
these will run you around $5
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Airline Hose: Common ¼” hose
is all that is needed here. Luckily it
will only run you about $0.10 a foot.
You only need a few feet.
Container: A
plastic container that
has a sealable lid.
Preferably spill proof
and around 2 liters in
size. This one, I paid
$2.50 for. Size will
depend entirely on
what you want to use.
You do not need
anything fancy or
expensive though.
Even a simple water
bottle will work. (if it
has a flat bottom)
Airline ball valves:

You need two of these.
These are pretty common
to find online with an
aquarium supply store.
They fit perfectly inside
an airline hose and are
barbed at the end so the
line does not come off. They will cost you around $0.50 each.
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Aqua-Lifter Dosing Pump: This is a must. I recommend
using the “Tom Aquatics Aqua-Lifter Dosing Pump”. If you
search it online, you will come to find it will average around
$15. This is similar to an air pump, but instead of air, it can
pump liquid. It pumps small amounts of liquid though, which
is perfect for this project.
Silicone: You will need a small amount of silicone.

Hopefully you have a bit extra left over from another project.
If not, grad a small tube. You only need a dab of it.
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Step 1:
Drill a hole as close to the bottom of the container as
possible. The hole should be the same size as the airline hose.
Step 2:
Take a small piece of airline hose and attach it to one of

the ball valves.
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Step 3:
Insert the ball valve with the airline end, into the hole in
the bottle. The ball valve slightly makes the airline wider than
normal and this helps to create a seal on the bottle. The seal
will prevent leaks and movement. The purpose of this valve
will be discussed later.
Step 4:
Add a dab of silicone around the ball valve to help seal it.
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Step 5:
Connect the lift pump to this valve. This valve should be
connected to the suction input of the pump.
Step 6:
Connect a small piece of airline to the output of the pump.
Then a ball valve. Then more airline. This will serve as the
return to your aquarium.
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How it works:
Fluid is sucked in from the container and pumped to the

aquarium.
The ball valve connected to the container serves as a shut off

and a place to disconnect the pump from the container. The
valve insures nothing leaks out when you do so.
The ball valve on the output controls the flow of liquid.
Now let’s talk about how to set this up and how to get the
right amount of flow out of it.
We need to know one thing: How much water is in a

drop.
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It takes 20 drops of water to make 1 milliliter of water.
So for example, if you drip this at a rate of 1 drop per

second, you will have dripped 3 milliliters of water in 1
minute. This measurement is how you will calculate the flow.
When you turn this pump on, you will notice that the
water flows out and doesn’t actually drip. You will need to use
the ball valve on the output of the pump to control the flow
and bring it down to a drip. NEVER restrict the flow going in.
Only restrict the flow going out. Restricting the flow going
into a pump will ruin any water pump in no time.
So now that we know how to calculate the dosing amount. We

can have this dripping all day. So that is where the timer
comes in.
Set the timer to turn the pump on once a day, for a set
time period. I like to use a 5 minute setting. In most cases, this
is enough.
Let’s take a look at another example.
Say we need to dose 20 millilitres of fertilizer to the

aquarium once a day. Now let’s also say we set the timer to
come on for only 5 minutes. That means we need to make sure
there are 400 drips in those 5 minutes. 5 minutes = 300
seconds.
So this means we need to drip a little more than 1 drip a

second. To make math easier on you, I would just set the time
to 4 minutes. Or even 2 minutes and have 2 drips a second.
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Bonus tips:
Practice with water first. Get your drip right before adding
in the real thing. This can take a few attempts and maybe even
a few days to make sure the drip is consistently correct.
Place the output hose near a power head or return of a

filter. Make sure it is getting evenly distributed in the
aquarium and not just dosing one area in the aquarium.
Aquarium alarm system
Water changes sometimes take a long time to fill the aquarium

back up and sometimes we leave the room for a moment.
Sometimes we forget that we were doing a water change. I
have done it myself and heard it many times of tanks being
forgot about while filling them up.
Or if an aquarium springs a leak in the seam or plumbing,

there is no way to know until we inspect the aquarium. By
then, the damage is already done.
So this project will completely prevent these potential

disasters by making sure you are well aware that water is
where it shouldn't be before it is too late.
This alarm system will alert you of when water is leaking

around your aquarium OR when your aquarium is done
filling/water level rises OR if a water level drops.
Now one of the most common alarms is a smoke alarm. Not

only are they common, but they are also pretty cheap. If you
shop around or get one on sale, you can pick one up for $5.
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Not only are their cheap, but they are also very loud. No
matter where you are in the house, if these go off, you will
hear it!
Now every smoke alarm should be replaced every 3-5 years in
your home to be safe. So perhaps while you are replacing
them, you save an old one for this project like I did and then it
costs you nothing as you were throwing it out anyways. We
only need the alarm portion of it for this project, so the smoke
detector mechanism doesn't actually need to work.
This entire project will cost you less than $10!
Supplies:
 Smoke alarm (or one similar)

 Wire
 Float switch
 Airline tubing suction cup
Smoke alarm:
We need a smoke
alarm, or an alarm
similar to it. The key is
it HAS to have a "test"
button.
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That test button, when
pushed will sound the
alarm. That is the most
important aspect of this
project.
Wire:
For wire, I just used
some speaker water I
had, and you can use
almost any sort of
electrical wire you can
find for this project.
Float switch:
A cheap float
switch off ebay is
all that is needed.
I grabbed a few
for $1 each with
free shipping.
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Airline tubing suction cups:
These are typically
cheap and easy to find.
Generally used to hold
airline tubing, I find
have a few extra on
hand come in handy for
many projects.
Step 1:
When we open up the alarm, we can see that it is a very simple

layout. It will have a 9volt battery, a smoke detector and an
alarm in it. While all detectors are different, this is a basic
idea.
I like to start out by taking everything out of the casing so I

can more easily work with it.
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Now we can see how the test button works.
When push the button will press down on this metal tab. That
metal tab touches a wire when pushed. This completes a
circuit and triggers the alarm.
If we flip the alarm upside down, we can now follow the paths
of how everything connects.
Now that we know how this works, we can manually trigger it.
Using a solid piece of wire, touch both points that need to
touch to complete the circuit. This will sound the alarm.
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We can also do this with 2 separate pieces of wire. When we
connect them, the alarm will sound.
Step 2:
For wire, I just used some speaker water I had, and you can
use almost any sort of electrical wire you can find for this
project.
Now most of you won't be able to solder the wires in place, so
what I did was found places on the alarm where I can tie the
wires on. I simply followed the circuit on the back until I
found spots where I could do it.
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Step 3:
With the wires attached, the alarm can be placed back in its
housing. I ran the wire through the back of the alarm to make
them easily accessible.
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Now obviously we would need for these 2 wires to touch in
order to sound the alarm. However, water itself is a pretty
good conductor of electricity. SO if we did the 2 wires in
water at the same time, this will complete the circuit between
the 2 wires and sound the alarm.
Step 4:
To make this more functional, I inserted a suction cup I had
from an old aquarium heater holder into the back of the alarm.
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The way this now works is simple. I attach the alarm to the
side of a tank with the suction cup and bend the wires of the
lip of the tank. When the water level rises in the aquarium and
reaches the wires, it will sound the alarm. No matter where I
am in the house, I will hear it.
The length of wire needed depends on your aquarium and

when you want to be alerted. The deeper into the tank the
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wires are, the sooner you will be alerted. The wires simply
need to be the same length and close together but to touching.
It is also important to test the alarm prior to use by touching

the wires together to insure it is working as it should.
When you are using this for water changes; you can place it in
your stand or on the floor beside your aquarium and tape the
wires to the floor close together.
This will alert you of any leaks or water that touches it.
So for $5 you can potentially avert disaster. Given the

common availability and ease of this project, it also makes it a
very practical choice.
Now you might be wondering if this could harm your fish.

The short answer is no. It's only a 9volt battery; there is just
not enough power. The current that it does produce, as with all
electricity that hits water, will stay at the surface of the water
and disperse. Essentially, it's harmless.
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So far, this alarm system will alert you is water TOUCHES it.
However, it would also be useful if we could be alerted if
water is NOT touching it anymore. IE: water level drops.
This is where the float switch comes into play.
Let’s first get it attached, then explain how it works.
Step 1:
Slide your airline suction cup over the wires and onto the tip
of the float switch. Be careful not to obstruct any moving parts
on it.
Step 2:
Twist the 2 wires of the float switch onto the wires coming
from the alarm. Which wire connecting to which, does not
matter.
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Step 3:
Suction the float switch to the side of the aquarium or sump.
The direction should be with the wires facing upwards.
How does this work? Well, the float switch works just like the
alarm does really. The plastic washer has a small magnet in it
on one end. When that magnet lines up with the rest of the
switch on one end, it closes a circuit. (this is a basic idea, not
all float switches are the same, but you get the idea)
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So knowing this, we can manipulate the switch to close if it
floats, or close if it drops.
We do this by simply removing the clip on the end of the float

switch.
And spinning the plastic washed around so it lines up in the

opposite direction.
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Now we can see inside and notice that both ends are not the
same.
Below we see the difference in the ends. Notice the magnet in

this end.
Float switches will appear later on again in this chapter, so

remember this basic information on them.
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Under gravel jets
Substrate in any aquarium can be the root cause of a lot of

problems. Gravel or even sand both collects a ton of waste
over time. Even though we do our general siphoning on it, we
never really get it all.
A gravel or sand substrate will be the only spot in your entire
aquarium system with the lowest amount of oxygen and flow
as well.
All of this will end up causing issues down the road for your
aquarium and fish. In fact, it could even lead to your aquarium
one day “crashing”.
Why are not more of us doing something about this when the
solution is so easy?
We concentrate so heavily on the water in the tank so much

that we tend to forget about the substrate and its health.
Under gravel jets creates a much healthier environment within

your substrate while virtually eliminating the need to perform
substrate vacuuming.
Under gravel jets lightly deliver fresh water to your gravel bed
while increasing circulation within it as well as oxygen
content. Not to mention, it will help keep debris from settling
in it so that the mechanical portion of your filter can do its job.
This project is simple enough for anyone to do and requires

minimal equipment.
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Supplies:
 ½ inch PVC pipe

 90 degree PVC elbows
 PVC “T”’s
 Small power head
PVC:
The amount of
PVC pipe and
fittings you
will need will
depend on the
size of the
aquarium you
are building
this for. We
will cover how
to build it and
what you will need will become more clear once done.
Small power head:

Per usual, the marine land maxijet comes in handy again, due
to the shae of the output. However, any brad will be fine if you
can figure a way to hook it up to this jet system.
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Step 1:
I like to start with the 2 ends of the aquarium and allow
everything to come together in the middle. Using a simple
hack saw will allow you to make adjustments to the length on
the PVC pipe. We want to make sure the jet runs the entire
inside perimeter of the aquarium, but not too tightly to the
edges. You will not have to cement anything together..
Placement of the pump input is completely up to you. I like to

place it on a back corner, as the pump is easier to conceal in
that location. Using a small piece of PVC pipe and a “T”, is
how I creating the pump input.
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Once I reach the middle of the aquarium, I attach a couple
more “T”s to allow for a middle section of PVC pipe. This is
being made for a 3 foot long tank. For a 4-5 foot tank, two
middle sections would be needed. A 6 foot tank would need 3
and a 7-8 foot tank would need 4
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Step 2:
Once everything is connected, we can move onto drilling
holes. Holes can be spaced every 1-2 inches and be as small as
you can make them. I like to go with a 2mm width on my
holes.
The holes should be on the SIDES of the pipe. Facing into the
substrate.
Step 3:
We can now drop this into the tank and insure it fits properly.
Now would be the time to do adjustments with a hacksaw if
needed.
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Step 4:
Attach a piece of PVC pipe to the T we created for the input.
Step 5:
Insert pump onto the pipe. If using a power head like mine, it
will simply slip right on and be a tight connection. If not, you
can use some hose or other fittings to make it work.
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Step 6:
Add in your substrate and make sure the jets are completely
covered and concealed. The depth of the substrate no longer is
as important as it might have once been due to the jets helping
with circulation.
You will also want to place a pre-filter (a sponge is easy to
add) to your pump. We don’t want to be pumping waste into
the substrate.
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Ideally, you should have the pump as far away from the
substrate as possible like below:
Now add in your water and turn the pump on!
The pump will suck in water from the top of the tank and
pump it down into the substrate, create a much healthier
substrate bed. You might even want to put a “filter” on the end
of the power head input like one of the filters in the filtration
chapter to take full advantage of this system!
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Aquarium lid/cover
Obviously covering your aquarium has its benefits:
 Stops fish from jumping out

 Helps prevent evaporation
 Lowers the room humidity levels
 Helps keep aquarium temperature
While we could always builds aquarium lids out of glass or

even acrylic, that is not always the best or even the cheapest
option. Typically speaking, an acrylic or glass lid does look
the best.
The lid/cover I want to show you is simple enough that anyone

can do it. It is one I have been using for a few years now on
many types of tanks.
Supplies:
 Greenhouse roof panel

 Greenhouse panel closure Strip (optional)
Greenhouse roof panel:

They are the roof panels
typically used on a
greenhouse. They are
made of a plastic called
polycarbonate. You can
pick up an 8 foot by 2
foot piece for around
$10-15
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Greenhouse panel closure
Strip:
These are used with the panels.
Essentially, they fill in the void
where the panels are curved.
They are useful to keep
humidity and evaporation low.
While not mandatory, they
certainly have their place.
They will cost you about $5
for a pack that will last for 3-4
panels.
Step 1:
Cut the panel to the size of your aquarium. Scissors work well
for this, but so does a saw or even a razor blade. (Personally, I
like to use scissors.) Cut out room for filters, wires and
anything else this needs to go around.
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Step 2:
Place it on your tank upright. The direction will not matter as
long as all edges of the lid are supported. This is when you can
lay down the closer strips under the edge of the panel as well
if you are using them.
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Why I use this lid over others:
They are clear:

Obviously this is important for an aquarium lid as light needs
to get through. Being only 1/8” thick, this means light has less
material to penetrate.
Highly impact resistant:

Drop it or throw it, this thing is not going to break.
Flexible:
No worry of it snapping, cracking or breaking while
manipulating it or working with it.
Easy to cut:
Since we can cut it with scissors, it’s no problem to cut it to fit
your aquarium or even make adjustments.
Cheap:
Always a plus!
Doesn’t bow:
An acrylic lid will tend to bow over time unless it is really
thick (expensive) or small (inconvenient). I have used this on a
tank that had an opening of 6 feet by 6 feet and this did not
bow!
Light weight:
Easy to move around and work around!
Obviously the benefits are many; but it’s simply not “pretty”.
However, I don’t think they look bad at all once you have used
them for a while.
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Drip system/automatic water changes
The single most beneficial thing you can do to your aquarium

is a water change.
I cannot stress that enough.
With that said, the following project has been the single best
project I have ever done for my aquariums.
A drip system.
A drip system is essentially a “flow through” system that

performs at a much slower rate.
A flow throw system constantly adds fresh water to your

system, while old water drains out.
In doing so, virtually eliminates water changes and offers

extreme consistency of your water parameters.
What more could you want right?

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For about $20-30 you can build this.
There are some things that you need to do it though. You need
a fresh water source close to your aquarium and you need a
drain close by as well. (Floor drain, back of toilet, clothes
washer drain, etc...)
The simplicity to a drain system and its low initial costs makes
for an easy project.
Let’s first look at how to set one up and then how it works and
things you should know.
Supplies:
 Pressure regulator and airline adaptor

 ¼” Airline tubing
 Drip emitter or line valve
Those are the main components. While there are more things
you will need, they will depend on how you tank is set up. We
will discuss that later on.
You can buy all of these supplies separate, or you can take a
trip to a local hardware store or garden center and pick up an
“irrigation kit”. They actually come with everything you need
and a lot of extras that you may find useful for other projects.
Expect to pay $20-30 either way you go.
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Pressure regulator and airline adaptor:
This is an important component. You will need a pressure

regulator rated at 25PSI.
The importance is
simple: It maintains
constant low pressure
on the water supply so
that you can provide a
consistent drip. You will want one that will allow you to either
use an adaptor to connect airline to it, or connect directly.
¼” Airline tubing:
Some common airline
tubing will be needed.
You will need as much as
the distance from the
water supply to the
aquarium, plus a few
extra feet to allow for some slack.
Drip emitter or line valve:

A drip emitter is a regulated valve set to
only allow a certain amount of water out of
it every hour.
Typically, they are rated from 1-3 gallons per
hour. Even as small as 0.25 gallons per hour.
(About a liter)
However, you might want a bit more

flow or even something that will
allow you to adjust it as needed. This
is why I personally use a line valve.
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Step 1:
Connect the pressure regulator to your water supply. Connect
the airline to the regulator.
The set up in this photo is pieces from an irrigation system. I
find they are easiest to work with and easy to find.
Step 2:
Connect the emitter to the end of the line and run it to your
aquarium. Place the emitter of valve furthest away from you
aquarium drain, yet close to a source of water circulation.
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That’s it!
Now you just have to deal with all the extra water being
added. Obviously, you would eventually flood your tank, so
you will need an overflow that drains the old water to a drain
in the floor or something like it.
The water entering is unfiltered though, so if your water

supply is being treated with chlorine, you will have to add in a
carbon filter before it gets to your aquarium. A simply
household water filter is all that is needed (about $15). They
are filled with a carbon block that will remove the chlorine.
The drip rate will depend on how much water you want
changed, but since this works on the principle of dilution, it
may take some experimentation to get it just right. Starting at
½ GPH per 50 gallons of aquarium would be a good start.
Dripping cold water is also fine as the water is not dripping

fast enough to fluctuate the aquarium temperature.
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Auto top off
An auto top off system is typically used to top off your

aquarium when water evaporates. This is usually used on a
saltwater system, to keep parameters consistent; however, it
can be used in freshwater as well.
The more we learn about how a system like this works, the
more ideas that will come to mind for uses for such a system.
The most basic explanation on how this works is simple:

An auto top off controls if a piece of equipment will turn on or
off depending on the water level in your aquarium.
Essentially, if the water level drops due to evaporation, the

auto top off will signal a pump to turn on and refill the
aquarium back to the point you have it set at.
Sounds complicated right? Well, it sort of is until you

understand how it all works.
First and foremost, we will be dealing with electrical

components and cutting wires. This is something I do not
typically like to teach, as I fully believe that you should only
ever touch anything electrical if you are a licensed electrician.
I am not. So please only move forward with your own caution.
While the following method is commonly used and of course
proven; we are working with electricity which can be deadly.
So again, proceed with caution.
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So before with move forward with anything, I want to explain
how everything works.
Remember the float switch we used in the alarm project?

We talked about how a float switch can open and close
connections based on water levels. Well, connecting a float
switch to something like a small battery is fine. That will not
harm the float switch. However, when connecting the float
switch to something more powerful, like a pump that gets
plugged into you wall, we need to take more precautions. We
don’t want to “fry” the float switch or created any sort of
electrical accidents.
So we need to run the float switch through something that can

handle all the extra power being placed through it. A relay can
do just that.
Relays are switches

that open and close
circuits
electromechanically or
electronically. Relays
control one electrical
circuit by opening and
closing contacts in
another circuit.
Protective relays can
prevent equipment
damage by detecting electrical abnormalities, including
overcurrent, undercurrent, overloads and reverse currents.
So basically, the relay will make sure the float switch does not
get overloaded and fails.
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A common relay: (more on this later)
The relay needs to be
plugged into
something to receive
the signals though, and
that something needs
to allow wires to
connect to it. So we
use a relay socket for
that.
So we now know that the float switch will open and close
connections while the relay will do the same thing, as well as
protecting the float switch from abnormal power surges.
While the float switch

does not need a power
source to work, the
relay does. So we need
a 12V transformer for
that.
This will power the

relay.
Now just using a float switch with a relay is enough to turn on

or off most equipment based on water levels in your aquarium.
So if the float switch signals to the relay that to turn on(based

on water level) the relay will open/close a connection and be
powered to do so by the transformer.
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The connection that it opens or closes is the connection for
other equipment that is plugged into the relay. That connection
allows or cuts off the power connection to the equipment.
Now let’s break it down into a very simple explanation:
If the water level drops or rises, depending on how you have

the float switch configured, (see alarm project) It will turn on
the relay.
The relay allows household current to flow to your pump. The

relay also keeps powerful electrical currents on the float
switch.
The float switch will activate if it rises or falls by about 1/8”
Now that we understand how this will work, we will move

onto the build and then a final look at how it all works
together.
For supplies, we will look at the bare minimum.

You can of course add to it if you like. (Especially if you want
all wiring hidden in a box or something) However you can
also just buy an entire kit that includes everything you need.
You will be able to build this entire system (minus the pump)
for only $15 (give or take)
Supplies:
 Float switch
 Relay
 Relay socket
 12V wall transformer
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 Extension cord
 Crimp caps
 Airline
suction cup
Float switch:
You can find these
on eBay
individually for
around $1 with free
shipping.
Relay:
You will also need
the relay. A 12VDC
relay(10A250VAC)
is what you will
need and will cost
around $5
Relay socket:
You will need a
matching relay
socket for your 12V
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relay. These are generally only $3
12V wall transformer:

This is just an AC
adaptor. A power
supply. These are so
common that you
might even have one
already. Perhaps you
have an unused
charger or power
supply to something
else. Just cut off the
plug end and use the rest. If not, grab one on eBay for around
$2.
Extension cord:
You only need a
cheap one. If you
have a wall plug
with a GFCI plug,
then you only need a
basic extension cord.
If not, grab a GFCI
extension cord. A
cheap one is only $1
at a “dollar store”. A
GFCI extension cord will be closer to $10 depending on
location. The need for one is only if you don’t want to cut
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your pumps cord. I recommend getting one as you may want
to use the pump for something else eventually.
Crimp caps:
These will be
needed to cap off
and secure wires
together. Electrical
tape will work as
well, but these are
far more reliable.
They are tiny
though, so you
might want to grab
a few extra. For this project you only need two. They are only
a few cents each, but let’s call it $1.
Airline suction cups:

These are my
favorite way to
mount a float switch
as I can easily adjust
them in the tank.
With that said, they
are also the least
reliable as they
could possibly
release from the glass. You may want to mount them
differently than I do. If they slip and fall off, they could turn
your pump on and flood your tank by accident. There are
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many other ways to mount them in your tank though. A bunch
of these suction cups (8) are only around $2 though.
Step 1:
Plug your relay into the socket.
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Step 2:
Prepare the extension cord.
We need to find the “live” wire. There are two ways to do this.
In a cheap extension cord, there will be 2 cords connected.
One side is ribbed:
The other side is smooth:
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The smooth side is the “live” wire. (The one that carries the
power)
If your extension cord is not like this, you will want to find the
black wire inside the protective cover. (For this reason, you
may need to buy 2 extension cords to insure you get the right
wire. 50/50 chance of getting it right) Unless you are willing
to repair the wire you cut by mistake. (This isn’t a big deal
anyways. A bit of electrical tape will cover it up.)
Once you find the live wire, cut it in half and expose the inside
wire.
Step 3:
Connect the extension cord to the relay socket. You will need
a screw driver to do so.
Connect one wire to one side, the other wire to the exact
opposite side. (On the bottom of the socket)
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As you can see, one wire is connected to the bottom left, while
the opposite wire is connected on the exact opposite side.
You can also skip this step and just splice the live wire on
your pump. However, you may prefer to sacrifice a cheap
extension cord like this instead.
Step 4:
Wire together the AC adaptor to the float switch. One wire of
each to each other. (which ones will not matter)
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Simply twist the wires together and then cap the connection
off with a crimp, and clamp it tight.
Get the relay close by to connect it all.
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Step 5:
Connect the remaining two wires from the float switch and
adaptor to the socket.
These get install on the top of the socket. Which side and
order will not matter.
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Now, it is ready to be installed. You will first want to test it
though.
Plug the extension cord into the wall. Plug the AC adaptor into
the wall as well.
Now move the plastic cylinder on the float switch up and

down. If everything is done correctly, you will hear a clicking
noise coming from the relay. That noise is the relay opening
and closing. (Shutting off and turning on the power!)
Your auto-top off is now complete.
However, we now realize how it works and my have even

come up with a few ideas on other things to automate on your
aquarium with this!
Now we can move onto installing it on your aquarium.

Attach the suction cup to the float switch.
(You would want to do this before wiring the float switch if

you go this route with the mount)
Then mount the suction cup the inside of your tank or sump.
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The location will vary based on where your water level is and
when you want it to kick in. Ideally, you would mount the
float valve slightly below water level so that if water drops,
the cylinder on the switch we drop with it and activate the
pump.
You don’t want this near any waves or turbulent water though.
Now plug your pump into the extension cord and place you
pump in a bucket of water or whatever you choose to hold the
“extra water”.
That’s it!
If water drops or rises (however you set the float switch up),
the float switch will activate. That float switch signals to the
relay to close the connection.
That connection being closed, allows for power to flow
through the extension cord that you pump is connected to!
That’s it! Once your tank is done filling, the float switch will
rise again and stop do the opposite.
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Heater guard and distributer
This is a project that will change the way you heat your
aquarium.
When it comes to heating your aquarium, there are a few

things we tend to have to deal with.
The first is hurting your fish.

Some fish sometimes hide behind your heater or lay on it. In
turn, burning themselves. Sometimes badly enough to
eventually die from it.
Some fish, will even attack the heater. Smashing it, knocking
it out of position or even knocking something in the tank over
and hitting the heater.
So heater guards came into the hobby to protect your fish a

long time ago. Not only does it protect the fish and the heater,
but also the user. Putting our own hands in a tank that has its
heater protected, also protects us from hitting it, or even being
burned. (While not common, it can happen)
The other thing we deal with is distribution of the warmed

water. Typically we place an air stone or power head near the
heater in hopes that it better distributes the heater water, thus
eliminating cold and hot spots. We even position the heater on
angles, on its side, or near the output of a filter to better
distribute the heat.
This project will combine both a heater guard AND heat

distribution. Eliminating the possibility of fish getting injured
and making the heater more efficient by distributing the heat
in the aquarium for you.
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There are two main types of heaters that are most common in
the aquarium hobby. The fully submersible type and the semi-
submersible type. (Usually meaning the top of the heater
cannot be submerged.
We will cover this project for both types.
Supplies for this project are actually minimal and will be

something you can build within a few minutes.
Supplies:
1” thin wall PVC:
For this, I prefer to use a thin wall PVC (sch 20) which is half
the thickness of regular PVC and a fraction of the cost.
Generally around $10 for 8 feet. However, use any type of
pipe your heater fits into without touching the side of the pipe.
(And fish safe) The amount you will use for this project will
be $1-2 in material. Feel free to buy the color you want, or
paint the final product.
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Two 1” PVC end caps:
You will need one or two of these depending on the style of
heater. For a fully submersible heater, you will need two. For
a semi-submersible heater you will only need one.
A power head or small pump:

You don’t need anything powerful, but something rated at 2-
300gph per 100 gallons of aquarium does nicely.
I prefer the maxi-jet power head for many of my projects due
to its low cost, low power consumption and the design of the
input and output. Feel free to use any brand you like though. A
basic air pump will not be strong enough for this project.
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A drill:
You’re going to need a drill. For this project you will need two
sizes. One that is 6mm and one that is 12mm. I suggest a
“step” drill bit that includes multiple sizes. This eliminates
switches bits and is much easier to drill with.
(Instructions for fully submersible heater)
Step 1:
Drill several 6mmm holes into one of the end caps.
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Step 2:
Drill a 12mm hole in the other end cap, as close to the edge of
the cap as you can get.
12mm may not be the right size depending on your pump, but
what we need to do is have a hole large enough to fit the input
(suction side) of the pump in. We want it to be a snug fit as
well.
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Step 3:
Drill out the side of the cap to create connected opening on the
opposite side of where the 12mm hole is drilled.
Drilling several smaller holes close enough to create this

opening eliminates the need for more tools.
Step 4:
Insert heater into PVC pipe and place the modified cap on top.
The hole we drill on the side will allow for the power cable to
pass through. When drill the hole for this cable, we want to
insure it is a snug fit.
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Instead of drilling it all at once, it is advised to make the
opening bigger and bigger as needed. Again, we want this
power cord exit to be snug.
Step 5:
Place the power head input, into the top of the cap. (Into the
12mm holed drilled earlier.
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Then place the remaining cap on the bottom.
Step 6:
This step is optional: With some spare sponge (30ppi in
rating), cut out a 1” hole and insert it onto the bottom of the
end cap. This will do some mechanical filtration for you.
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Step 7:
Place the heater project into the aquarium. The suction cups
from the pump will hold it in place.
IMPORTANT NOTE BEFOR YOU TRY THIS:
The heater cannot rest its entire length against the inside of the
PVC. This will create hotspot on the heater and could cause
failure or even melt the PVC. However, due to the way
aquarium heaters are designed, the heating coil does not
actually reach the bottom tip of the heater (the end that will
rest on the cap). The top of the heater will be held in place by
the power cord and ridge of the top of the heater. So typically
this is not a worry, but you should make sure anyways. If you
are experiencing too much contact, shorten the length of the
PVC pipe and use the end caps to hold the heater in place.
The caps will stop the heater from moving around.
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HOW IT WORKS:
Simply put; the power head suction causes water to be sucked

in through the bottom of the PVC. Water flows evenly over
the heater and then is returned to the aquarium.
(Instructions for semi-submersible heater)
Step 1:
Drill 6mm holes in the top of the PVC pipe. The location of
the holes should be about 1” from the top. How many you
need to drill will depend on the size of the pump. Testing it
will help determine. Personally, I prefer 12 holes in the front
of the PVC pipe. You can drill all the way around if you like,
however drill on one face allows you to spin the PVC to
control which direction it sucks from.
Step 2:
Drill a 12mm hole (or whatever size you need) for the intake
of your pump. Then insert that cap on the end of the PVC
pipe.
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Step 3:
Insert pump into the hole in the end cap.
Step 4:
Just like before, when we install this into the tank, the pumps
suction cups will hold it in place. Only this time, the pump
goes upside down.
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Once installed, drop your heater in. Water level of the
aquarium should be right above the holes in the PVC pipe.
Insure the heater is not lying flat against the PVC pipe. The
bottom of the heater is completely fine to touch the bottom
end cap.
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HOW IT WORKS:
As the pump sucks water from the PVC pipe, water overflows
into the holes and is forced to flow over the heater. The water
returned is well circulated and heated.
This will prove to be a very simple and easy solution to a

commonly overlooked area of the aquarium (Heater protection
and distribution)
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Protein skimmer
A protein skimmer is arguably one of the most important

aspects to a saltwater aquarium. While some will argue they
are not needed, others will state they are a must. Those is
favor outnumber those appose.
However, this is typically used exclusively on a saltwater tank

and not on freshwater.
Why?
We’ll get to that.
I first want to cover what a skimmer is, followed by how and

more importantly; why they work.
A protein skimmer (sometimes referred to as a foam

fractionator) removes waste products or basically any
decaying organic matter (Dissolved organic compounds AKA
DOC’s) you can think of that would be in a fish tank before it
has the opportunity to break down and lower water quality.
Technically a biological filter can do this as well, however, a

protein skimmer will dramatically reduce the biological load
put on a filter, along with a number of other benefits. (Which
don’t add value to this explanation, so we won’t cover them
and go off track)
How does it do this?
When the water passes through a skimmer (that produces a

mass of VERY tiny air bubbles) the dissolved organic
compounds (DOC’s) attach to the bubbles. As the air bubbles
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rise, so do the organics now attached to the bubbles. The
organics are then collected in a cup at the top of the skimmer
and removed from the system.
Why does this happen?
That’s where it gets interesting.
It does this by way of bubbles right? That doesn’t explain

much though now does it?
Simply put, the organic protein molecules are attracted to the

bubbles surface. (The full explanation is confusing and will
only lead to lost focus).
As these air bubbles rise, they bring the protein molecules

with them to the water’s surface. As more and more proteins
collect at the surface, the longer and longer the foam it creates
takes to burst. (As the surface of the bubble is now covered in
proteins).
We can take advantage of this with protein skimmer because

these bubbles take so much longer to burst and it starts to form
a foam. With a protein skimmer we can guide this buildup of
foam into a collection cup to be removed.
So now that we have a basic understanding of what’s going

on, we can now use that information to apply to a build.
Before we get to that….
Why can’t this be used on a freshwater tank?
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Well, we know that a skimmer works based on the proteins
being attracted to bubbles. BUT we need a LOT of bubbles to
make this work.
Take a look at this photo:
The air pump, air stone, air pressure, aquarium and

temperature are all the same. The only one difference is the
salinity.
The tank on the left is freshwater. The tank on the right has a
salinity of 1.025 (a pretty common salinity for most saltwater
tanks).
So why is the freshwater producing regular bubbles you would

expect to see and the saltwater tank producing a massive cloud
of tiny bubbles?
Surface tension.
The surface tension on the bubbles in the saltwater tank is

MUCH higher than in fresh. Which depicts the size a bubble
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can be. Bubbles in saltwater can be made to 4-5X’s smaller
than in fresh.
Now because we rely on bubbles to remove protein from the

water, a freshwater skimmer is simply not efficient enough to
be a useful component on a freshwater aquarium.
So now that we know what it does, how it works it and why it

works, we can move into building one.
Typically speaking most protein skimmers will be round in

shape. This help with the flow of the bubbles.
Most protein skimmers will also be tall and have a narrowing

section at the top before it reaches the collection cup.
We don’t need to reinvent the wheel here, we just need to find

a way to mimic the design with cheaper materials.
So here is what I have come up with.
The idea behind this skimmer design is to inspire. Use the

exact design or simply draw some ideas from it. While this
might not be the most effective…. It works. All in all, this
whole project cost me $15.
Supplies:
 2 water bottles
 2” PVC pipe.
 Suction cups
 Silicone
 Wooden air stone with an air pump/air line
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A pair of 500ml water bottles can be used here. Although you
can super-size this design and use 2L bottles.
Again, I like to use thin wall PVC for projects not under any
real pressure. This is sch 20 PVC. 2” in diameter. IF you super
size this skimmer, you can use 4” PVC to match the 2L
bottles.
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A pair of suction cups. These came from an old heater holder.
Notice the nubs on the ends of each cup.
Aquarium safe silicone is all you will need. Only a very small
amount is needed for this project.
The most important aspect to this project is the wooden air

stone. I’m a fan of the 2” red sea air stone. We HAVE to use a
wooden air stone as it will produce the smallest bubbles. (The
smaller the bubbles, the more efficient this will be). The air
pump used doesn’t have to be huge, but the stronger the better.
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A couple of tools that will come in hand is a drill with a drill
bit (6mm drill bit). Although I prefer a step drill so I don’t
have to switch bits. You will also need a pair of basic
scissors.
Step 1:
Cut the bottom of one of the bottle off.
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Then cut the top 1/3 off the top of that same bottle.
You will be left with the mid-section of that bottle.
Moving onto the second bottle, cut the top 1/3 off that bottle
as well.
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Step 2:
Slide the mid-section of the first bottle onto the top half of the
second bottle.
Silicone the seam closed.
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Smooth the silicone seam over with your finger. This doesn’t
have to be a strong seam, just leak proof.
Step 3:
Drill 2 holes in the side of the PVC pipe. The holes should be
SLIGHTLY smaller than the nubs on the suctions cups.
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Turn the pipe on its side and drill a hole 2” from the bottom.
Insert the suction cups into the first 2 holes.
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The suction cups should not come loose.
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Step 4:
Thread your airline into the last hole on the side of the PVC
pipe. If the hole was made correctly, this will be a snug fit.
Attach the wooden air stone on the inside of the PVC.
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Step 5:
Insert water bottle onto the top of the PVC pipe.
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As an optional addition, you can place some sponge inside the
pipe to stop fish (if this is going in a main tank and not a
sump) to stop fish from swimming up into it.
Doing so may make the skimmer less effective by the foam

filtering the water before it can be treated though. So use only
as a last resort. (Or possibly consider siliconing or tying some
mesh to the entrance)
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Step 6:
Install into your aquarium or sump. Turn the air pump on. At
this point there are many ways to adjust the skimmer height
and ability to “tweak it”. First, you can slide the whole simmer
up and down in the water.
Second, since the water bottle is not a snug fit, it too can be
slid up and down to adjust the skimmer production.
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The skimmer will immediately start to produce the bubbles
expected and within a few days, the collection cup with fill
with skim mate.
Adjusting to get the perfect skim can be easily done. It can

take several days to even weeks to break a skimmer in though.
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To clean the skimmer, simply slide the collection cup off and
pour the skim mate down the drain.
HOW IT WORKS:
As the wooden air stone creates the tiny bubbles and those
bubbles rise, proteins attach to those bubbles and rise up the
pipe with them. As they reach the surface, foam begins to
build up. The more and more foam that builds, the higher up
the neck of the water bottle that foam is pushed, only to
eventually overflow into the collection cup to be completely
removed from the system.
So there you have it. A very cheap and easy to build skimmer.
Obviously not very pretty, but if it’s in a sump no one is going
to see it anyways.
Given its price and ease of use, it can also be used as a back
up or for QT tanks.
Maybe you take this design and make it much more appealing
an efficient.
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CHAPTER 9
Decorations
Decorations play a huge role in the aquarium. Creating a

unique aqua scape can sometimes be limited to what available
though. Building your own decoration becomes hugely
important when you discover what is actually possible.
In this chapter will take a look at building the 3 main

components to aquarium decor:
 3D backgrounds and caves

 Plants
 Substrate
3D backgrounds and caves
3D backgrounds have been hugely popular in the

aquarium hobby for a long time. You can buy them, or even
build them. Buying them means you probably now have the
same background as many other people, and are also out a few
hundred dollars.
The appeal to building your own 3D background is being

able to make exactly what you feel your aquarium needs while
making it extremely unique. The other benefit is the massive
savings on doing it yourself.
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DIY 3D backgrounds are typically made from Styrofoam
and cement. We will look at that style, but we will also look at
making one from fiberglass!
We will break this into 2 parts; Cement and fibreglass

backgrounds.
Each part will be broken into 3 parts:
 Supplies
 building
 installation
3D cement background:
The cement background is typically the most popular as it

tends to be the easiest type.
It requires little skill, and not a whole lot that can actually
go wrong.
Ultimately, we just need to paint cement onto Styrofoam.
Supplies:
 Paint brush
 Cement
 Styrofoam
 Silicone
 Caulking gun
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Paint brush: any bristle paint brush will do. Having a
couple of different sizes will help get into the harder to reach
areas.
Cement: I prefer to use poly super strength cement as it

tends to not crumble at the thickness we need. It is also easy to
work with and mix. Typically speaking though, any sort of
cement will be fine.
Styrofoam: You will need white Styrofoam for this

project. The thicker the better. I like to use at least 1” thick.
While you can buy this at a hardware supply store, you can
also get it for free from a furniture store as they throw and
incredible amount of this out.
Silicone: Aquarium safe silicone is needed. I like to use

GE silicone I window and door. As mentioned from the glass
aquarium build chapter.
Caulking gun: This is a must for the large tubes of

silicone.
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Step 1:
Cut out your Styrofoam sheets and make sure they will fit
in your aquarium. For additional thickness, I like to silicone a
few sheets together. Then cut it to the inner dimensions of my
tank. I suggest going with at least 6” thick. Don’t worry, as we
will be cutting a lot off. This will simply leave room for error.
This background was made for a corner aquarium. Again,

I cut it to fit the inside of the tank, and then made sure it
would fit.
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Step 2:
It is best to draw on your background onto the Styrofoam
first. This will give you an outline of where to carve. It will
also give you a good idea of what it will end up looking like.
We then need a sharp knife to carve with. I actually like

to use a short knife so I don’t cut too deep by accident.
The trick to carving out the shapes is that we simply cut

out the crevices. For example, if we are cutting out rock
shapes, we cut out around the shape. Making V shape cuts
down into the Styrofoam. Cut deeply into the Styrofoam to
give it a much better 3D look.
Once you have the basic shape cut out of each rock, we
can then double back and start to shape the rock itself.
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A benefit to 3D background is that you can hide your
equipment behind them as well. So careful planning of where
you want to put everything is needed
When you figure out where you want to place things (like
your heater and filter) carve out spots behind the background
so they will fit in place.
You can then insure water will circulate around them well
by adding in some lighting diffuser to act as a screen. Or even
some plastic knitting mesh like we used in the algae scrubber.
We would just silicone this in place.
From there, we should dry fit everything into the

aquarium again, to make sure it all fits.
If everything fits, we can then move onto the next step.
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Notice the lighting diffuser in place. I made sure my filter
and heater where in the same place so that the heater has a
chance to heat the water, and then the heated water be
circulated.
Step 3:
You can now prepare the cement to be added.
Mix the cement to a thick consistency. Insure that it is
thoroughly mixed yet NOT runny. You will want it to be like a
mud.
Once mixed, we can now apply a coat the background.

Don’t worry about coating it too thick, as we need to place on
3-4 coats anyways.
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We are only applying cement to the front of the
background. The rear of it stays free of any cement.
The cement will go on a dark color but dry a light grey.
We will let this layer cure for at least 24hrs or until it is

completely dry.
Once it has cured we can add the second coat.
Paying special attention to making sure the layers are the

same thickness, so that there are no weak spots.
We will repeat the coatings at least 3 times, and maybe

even 4 depending on how thick we put on the first 3 coats. A
24hr wait is needed in between the coats.
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Once it dries, it will change color:
Step 4:
Coloring can be added to the last coat. I suggest using a
cement pigment. This simply gets mixed into the cement itself.
However, if you are going for a rock look, it won’t be needed.
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Step 5:
Once the background has fully cured, we can go ahead
and install it into the aquarium.
Installation is done with silicone. Apply lots of silicone to

the back and press it firmly in place in the aquarium. Let this
cure for at least 72 hours.
Step 6:
Due to the content of cement, once water is added to the
aquarium, it will cause the PH of the water to go through the
roof. It will not be safe for fish just yet.
We need to fill the tank and let it sit for 3 days. Then we
will drain it and repeat. We will fill and drain until the PH of
the tank matches the PH of the tap.
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Only then can we add fish to the system.
Add a few plants around the background might even give it a
more natural look.
The end result will be whatever you decided to create!

There will never be another background like the one you
create!
So that was an example of a corner aquarium build. Doing

a flat back tank is identical!
Here is a quick look at a flat background I once did.

Notice the rocks are far more flat in this one. That is the result
of using a much thinner Styrofoam. This in the end does not
leave a ton of option when it comes to carving.
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The way we make fake rocks and caves is the same as the
background, so why not build a few of those as well since we
already have the supplies? Just silicone them in place!
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Rocks or caves can do nothing but compliment your
background!
3D fibreglass background:
The fibreglass background is the hardest type to build, but

the best. It is hollow so it doesn’t take up any water volume. It
is also very light weight and lasts forever. Not to mention, it is
very durable.
The down side is it’s just not easy to make. The resins are
sticky and the smell is horrible. This one HAS to be done
outside.
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Supplies:
 Paint brush
 Fibreglass cloth
 Fibreglass resin
 Styrofoam
 Silicone
 Caulking gun
Paint brush: A polyester paint brush will be needed for

this build. They tend not to melt from the resin.
Fiberglass cloth: You will need a lot of cloth for this

project depending on the size of it.
Fiberglass resin: Marine grade resin is what is

recommended here. It is ok if you run out, as you can always
get more and continue the project. The resin will come with
complete instructions on how to
mix it. Follow them exactly. If Pro tip #37
you mix in too much regent, the
resin might become too hot and Go out and get inspired by
set far too fast. Don’t add nature! Take lots of photos
to get a good idea on
enough, and it will never cure. colors. Use these photos to
DO NOT do this in wet weather, help gain a better insight
but you will need to do this to what things look like in
outside. The odor is simply too real life when comparing
strong. to a natural environment
of your fish.
Styrofoam: You will need

white Styrofoam for this project. The thicker the better. I like
to use at least 1” thick. While you can buy this at a hardware
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supply store, you can also get it for free from a furniture store
as they throw and incredible amount of this out.
Silicone: Aquarium safe silicone is needed. I like to use

GE silicone I window and door. As mentioned from the glass
aquarium build chapter.
Caulking gun: This is a must for the large tubes of

silicone.
Acetone: Having about a liter of acetone will come in

useful for removing the Styrofoam from the fibreglass mold.
Step 1:
Starting with the Styrofoam, I like to build up a rough
structure of what I am going to be building. I simply stack it
up and give it a rough outline. I then silicone it all together;
Not a lot of silicone is needed for this, just enough to hold it
together as you work on it.
In this example, I wanted a tree root.
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With the rough outline help together, I let the silicone
cure for 24 hours. After that, I do some finer trimming and
shaping.
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A good idea once you have the final shape is to use a heat
gun to slightly melt the styrofoam. Once cured, it is more
resistant to melting from the fibreglass resin.
Step 2:
We can now mix the resin carefully as per the
instrucitons. I like to mix a little bit at a time so I don’t run
into problems with wasting any resin due to it curing too
quickly.
I dip strip of cloth into the resin to coat it in it. Then lay
those strips onto the background starting at the bottom.
I use the paint brush to smooth it all out.
It is very important to wear protective gloves at this point

when handleing the resin.
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Once the background is completely covered in cloth, I
make sure the cloth is pushed into all the cracks and help
shape the cloth onto the form.
You will notice some melting of the styrofoam at this
point, so it is important to move quickly to retain the shape.
The melting is not that much, but it is enough to respect. You
will notice that some of the melting actually adds to a more
natural look.
Step 3:
Curing times will vary, but 24hrs is typical.
Once cured, the cloth will be hardened into a shell on top
of the background. We can then remove the Styrofoam from
the background with a knife.
After removing as much as we can, we can remove the

rest by pouring acetone onto the inside surface. Do not let it
pool too long though, or it will also melt the resin.
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Once the Styrofoam is completely removed, we can rinse
the whole thing off with cool water.
Notice in the picture above, Styrofoam still remains. The

acetone cleans this up nicely and will then look like the picture
below.
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Step 4:
Depending on how well you did with the application of

the cloth, it might require some sanding. At this point, I like to
use a 60 grit sand paper over the whole inside and out. I then
go over it all again with 100 grit.
This smooth’s is all out and also prepares it for paint.
Step 5:
We can now paint it. I like to use a spray paint as I’m not
much of an artist. Any type is fine as we will be sealing it all
in.
I start with a dark base coat; usually black or dark brown.
I then move onto lighter colors like gray and avoid doing
the crevices to make them look deeper.
From there; one last coat of just resin applied with the
brush to the whole background.
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Step 6:
We can now install this into the aquarium. Before we do

that, we need to make sure water can flow through it. I like to
cut out in spots that are not easily seen, then silicone in a piece
of plastic mesh to act like a screen.
Since this is a hollow background, we will need to apply

the silicone exactly where it is needed.
Start by placing the background into the aquarium. Then

trace the outside that is touching the tank with a non-
permanent marker.
Remove the background and you now have a guide for the
silicone. Apply the silicone directly behind this line as that is
where the background will actually touch.
Once the background is in place, you can use your finger

to smooth out the silicone and make sure there is a tight seal.
If you notice any gaps, you can go ahead and fill them in with
silicone.
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Step 7:
We now wait 24hrs then fill the tank. Since the entire
background is hollow, equipment will be simple to install. If
needed you can cut the background easily to fit it.
Plants
Live aquarium plants are not for everyone. Setting up a

planted aquarium can take a lot of money, time and
experience.
However, some people still want the look of a planted

aquarium and plastic plants just don’t cut it.
That’s where this project comes in.
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The use of silk plants in the aquarium, have been around
as long as silk plants have.
They are the perfect
Pro tip #38
alternative to live. They
look realistic; they have When choosing the plants, try
texture that lets them freely to pick ones that resemble
flow in the aquarium water aquatic plants as much as
making them appear even possible. Having plants that
look like they suit their
more realistic, plus their environment are allows more
cheap! visually appealing in an
aquarium, than plants that
The down side is look out of place.
getting them to stay in your
aquarium without them
floating.
This project will show you one way of getting them to

stay in your aquarium with a weighted base. The base wont
only keep them sunk, but will also keep them facing upright!
You won’t need a lot to complete this project, and it is very

easy.
There are two ways to do this. We will look at both of
them.
Supplies:
 Silk plants
 Cement
 Water bottle
 Plastic wrap
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Silk plants: any silk plant will do. Even the type with
metal parts inside that helps shape the plant. As long as the
metal is completely covered, it won’t pose a problem. If it
makes you feel better, you can simply rip them out.
Cement: We can use the same type of cement we used

with the background.
Water bottle: You will need as many water bottles as

you want. Each bottle will equal one plant, or one bunch of
plants.
Plastic wrap: any type of plastic wrap is fine. We won’t

need much.
Step 1:
You will first need plants.
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Step 2:
Cut the bottom of your water bottles off. You will need
the bottom to be a couple inches high.
Step 3:
Mix up your cement into a thick consistency. Insure it is

thoroughly mixed.
You will want it thick enough so that plants can stand up
freely in it while it cures.
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Step 4:
Line the inside of the bottle with plastic wrap. This will
make removing the cement from the bottle much easier. Then
scoup in some cement into each bottle. Filling it by at least 1
inch.
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Step 5:
Bend the end of the plant in half and insert into the bottle.
Once inserted, you’re your finger to pack the cement in tight.
Add more cement if needed.
Step 6:
Allow the cement to cure for at least 24hrs. Once it is

cured, you can pull the cement out of the bottle and remove
the wrap from the cement.
Allow this to sit in water for a few days while it leaches

out any calcium that will raise the main tanks PH.
Once don the whole curing process, we can add it to the

main aquarium. Bury it under your gravel or sand and that’s it!
The alternate way:
The only thing we will do different here is not use

cement. Instead, we will use silicone and gravel.
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In the bottle bottom, fill it half way with silicone. Then
take some dry gravel from your aquarium and mix it in.
Finally, stick your plants in.
Pro tip #39
Wait 24-48hrs to cure,
then remove from the cup. The When using sand as a
base will still be weighted, but substrate, it is not
advisable to have a more
instead of being cement, it will
than a 1” layer. To achieve
be a base that is made up of the a 1” layer, you will need 10
same substrate as the main pounds of sand for every
aquarium, which will look even square foot of tank space.
better.
Substrate
Substrate for the home aquarium is expensive no matter

how you look at it. Whether we are using regular aquarium
gravel or specialty sand, it is still expensive either way. Most
substrate typically cost $2-3 a pound. This is crazy when we
really think about what we are buying; Crushed rocks.
So being able to find a cheap yet still visually appealing
and functional substrate will always be a bonus!
Pool filtration sand has been a very popular alternative in

the hobby for good reason. It is the perfect size sand, looks
natural, pretty clean and cheap!
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You can expect to pay around $0.20 - 0.25 a pound. Just a
fraction of the cost you would pay for the pet store stuff.
You can find it at any swimming pool store or hardware

store for $8-10 for a 40 pound bag.
You will need to give it a rinse as you would with any

new substrate though.
The best way to do this is with two buckets OUTSIDE.

Do not do this in your sink or bathtub.
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Starting with the first bucket, dump a small amount into
the bucket. Until it fills by about 20-25%
Then run a hose into the bucket and let it overflow. Stir
the sand around with your hand ever so often. We will
continue to do this until the water runs off clear.
Once clear, dump that clean sand into the other empty
bucket. Continue to do this until you have rinsed all of the
sand.
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Now we can add it to the main aquarium. Do this using a
small bowl. Fill the bowl up with sand and slowly lower it into
the aquarium.
Do not pour it in or you will cloud up your aquarium.

This could cause damage to your filters.
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Once to the bottom of the aquarium, we can then tip the
bowl over and let the sand out. We will repeat this until all and
is in the aquarium. You can then smooth the sand out with
your hand.
Aquarium Trim
One of the things that can sometimes finish an aquarium is a
trim. I feel this is more for aesthetics or decoration for the
actual aquarium though and will offer no support for the
structure of the tank.
With that said, there’s no reason why we can’t build a decent

rim that is also functional as well.
You may want a trim to add to an aquarium you built, or you

might be replacing a broken trim. You might not even like
your current trim and want something a little sleeker.
In this project, I will teach you how to easily build a trim that
is cheap and functional as well. Not to mention, customizable
in size and color.
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As with a lot of a lot DIY projects there is typically a key part
to the project that is a must. This trim is no exception,
however you can really use just about anything like it.
So let’s get started.
We’ll start off with getting the aquarium ready to build a trim,
then we can move into the trim itself.
Step 1:
Remove the existing trim (if needed)

This can take some effort and time to remove, but with the
proper tools and patience, it’s not so difficult.
Using something like a paint scrapper (Because they are rigid

and thin), you will want to slide it under both sides of the trim.
On the outside of the tank and on the inside.
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Doing so will cut the silicone that is holding a lot of the trim
down. You won’t be able to cut the silicone that is directly
under the trim, but if you pull up slightly on each side and
corner, a bit at a time, you can slowly release the remaining
silicone.
This is a step you don’t want to rush, or you could snap the
glass panel.
We do this for the top and bottom of the aquarium in the same
manner.
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Step 2:
Once removed, you can clean up the panels and remove any
remaining silicone or residue. Do this with a razor blade and
remove as much as you can.
With the trim removed, we can move into building the actual
trim.
The material we will be using is typically used in shelf

building. It is used to edge the shelves and act as a protective
barrier from bumps accidents. Thus, prolonging the life of the
shelf.
The reason we want to use them is they are a plastic (long

lasting) that is easy to cut and paint, as well as durable and
strong. I should also mention; CHEAP. Depending on the size
you get, the price will vary, however it will only be a few
dollars for an 8 foot length.
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The design of the shelving trim is what we are really after.
Step 3:
Prepare the edging to be used. We want to cut off one of the
edges to allow installation onto the tank. By scraping the
inside with a sharp blade, this will etch it enough to snap off
the piece we don’t need.
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We still want to take our time like this and only snap off what
we intend to. Moving too fast and we can ruin the edging fast.
Step 4:
We can now cut it to the desired length. (The outside of the
aquarium dimensions) Again, using a sharp blade to etch the
area we want to cut, and then snapping it off.
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This will leave use with the flat side of the edging and one
edge.
Step 5: Because we cut off one of the side, the edging now
sites on top of the glass panel with one edge in the front.
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With a bit of silicone, we can silicone the edging right on top
of the panels of the aquarium. There is no need to do the back
though, as no one will see it.
Step 6:
We can now move onto the inside. Using the same edging cut
the same way, we want to flip it onto its back and silicone it
onto each inside panel. With the back of the edging siliconed
done, one edge should be pointing into the aquarium. Use
clamps to hold in place as it cures.
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Notice the inside has the edges pointing inwards. Once cured,
this will hold a lid.
Since this edging comes in various sizes, you can get it from
6mm all the way up to 25mm (1/4 – 1”)
Depending on the size you use, you will be able to have your
lids sit inside the tank and flush with the top. This example is
using a 1/2” edging.
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It is strong enough to hold glass lids as well.
If white is not the color you like, you can paint it whatever
color you like prior to installing it on your aquarium.
Once done, you will have a trim that is the size and color you
choose. Since this is such a cost effective project, it is also
something you can try out and if you don’t like the end result,
go back to your old trim.
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CHAPTER 10
Food
DIY aquarium food is a huge interest in the hobby.

However, not a lot of people are doing it. Why? Most don’t
know what to put in it or why. So for most, it’s easier to just
buy food and assume that is what’s best as their fish seem to
be doing ok.
What if there was something better? What if you could

drastically improve their color? What if we knew EXACTLY
what was in our food and knew where it came from and that it
was fresh. Wouldn’t we all want that?
That’s what DIY food can potentially offer. IF done right

and you know what and why you are mixing something into
the food.
In this chapter, we will look at:

 What do fish need in their diet?
 Possible ingredients and their values
 Color enhancers
 How to make DIY food
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What do fish need in their diet?
When considering your own fish food, it is important to

know what fish require in their diets.
Complete diets should include:
 Protein Pro tip #40

 Carbohydrates
DIY fish food is not as
 Fats complicated as it might seem. We
 Vitamins could even get a really good food
out of using just 3 ingredients as
 Minerals long as their values meet what we
expect for required Protein,
Carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and
minerals.
Understanding ingredients and their values
Protein:
As an ingredient, protein is most commonly used in the

form of meat.
Protein can be considered the building block of growth.
Protein can be found in many different sources; however, it is
also the most expensive ingredient as well as the most
important.
How much protein you would require in you food
depends on a couple of main factors; Species of fish and age
of fish.
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Species: Not all species require the same amount of
protein in their diets. It would typically range from 15-40%
diet requirement depending on the species.
For the most part, we can break down protein

requirements into 3different classes.
Herbivorous species: 15% protein requirement

Omnivorous species: 25% protein requirement
Carnivorous species: 40% protein requirement
These values tend to work very well as a rule of thumb.
The other factor to consider is the age of the fish. Once a

fish is done growing and has reached adult hood, its protein
requirements drop drastically.
Since the fish is no longer growing, higher protein levels

are typically no longer needed, and can be cut in half. If we
don’t, the protein is simply not used by the fish and is turned
into ammonia. If we feed proper levels, we can eliminate
unnecessary waste and ammonia levels in the aquarium.
When considering a source for protein in a fish food, we

need to not only consider the values of that source, but also the
cost and availability.
So while there are always better ingredients we can use,

there is no point to trying to use it if it’s a struggle to find it.
Beef heart:
Beef heart has been in a staple in DIY fish food for a
very long time. It is cheap, commonly available and has high
protein content.
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The down side is it comes from a mammal. Due to this, its
fat content has a high boiling point. This means that fish
cannot actually metabolize it. So it gets stored in the fishes
organs, causing heath issues later on. So we need to insure if
we use beef heart to remove ALL fat possible.
Beef heart is still a good ingredient though due to its high

protein content and a low fat content. Fish also readily accept
it.
The protein content of beef heart is around 18%. For
every 100 grams of beef heart, there is 18 grams of protein.
Beef heart is also high in iron. Iron is a mineral needed to

carry oxygen from gills throughout the rest of the fish’s body.
Iron also helps muscles store and use oxygen
Beef heart is also high in B vitamins. All B vitamins help

to convert food into energy.
Fish fillet:
Fish fillet is simply just the meat of a fish. This ingredient
is more consistent with what a fish would come into contact in
the wild. Adding a source of fish to the diet is also a wise
choice. With so many types of fish, which one is best? Well,
we want to stay away from oily fish as they pollute the water
too much.
My favorite fish to use is tilapia. It is typically commonly

available and usually the cheapest as well. Fish costs more
than beef heart per pound though.
Tilapia is 25% protein, and very low in fat.
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Tilapia is not only high in protein, but also relatively high
in omega 3 and 6 fatty acids. These are essential to overall
health of the fish with many benefits.
Tilapia is also a good source of Phosphorus and

Potassium; both essential minerals. These minerals regulate
osmotic balance and help with bone formation and strength.
Shrimp:
Market shrimp is also a great addition to your food. It is
commonly available, but not very cheap depending on the
season.
Fish tend to take to it very nicely as well.

We will want to use either raw or frozen shrimp though.
NOT cooked.
Shrimp contains 20% protein and half the fat of beef

heart.
It is also an excellent source of both potassium and some
calcium.
Egg yolk:
Egg yolk is a great addition to a home-made food, not

only due to its content but also due to its ability to help bind
ingredients together.
Egg yolk is 16% protein. It is also high in many minerals

and vitamins as well, like vitamin B12. However, we don’t
want to use many egg yolks due to the down side of it; it’s
high in fat. So ultimately, we only use it for its protein content
and binding ability. Because we use so little of it, we don’t
really consider other nutritional values.
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Those 4 are my favorite sources of meat. While there are
many other sources, these will give you a basic idea of what
you can use.
Carbohydrates:
Carbohydrates (starches and sugars) are an inexpensive

source of energy for fish diets. Although it is not necessarily
needed due to fish being able to extract and use energy from
other ingredients, it still needs to be mentioned.
Carbohydrates are stored as glycogen that can be used to
satisfy energy demands in fish.
Mammals use carbohydrates on a much larger scale and

are actually able to extract more than twice the energy from it
as a fish can.
A maximum of about 20% of dietary carbohydrates can

be used by fish.
Food high in carbohydrates is generally used as “fillers”.

Giving the food more volume and getting more out of your
mix.
The only food I would consider adding to a fish food mix

is oats. In the form of common oat meal.
Oat meal is 66% carbohydrates.
However, it’s also a good source of protein at 17%
protein.
Fats:
Fats are high-energy nutrients that can be used in place of
protein when it comes to looking to supply an energy source.
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Fats supply about twice the energy as proteins and
carbohydrates!
Good sources of fat have actually already been mentioned

above. Including: Beef heart, shrimp, tilapia and egg yolk.
We don’t need to really worry about if we are adding it in

or not, as it will be in the other foods we add.
Vitamins:
Remember being told to eat your vegetables? They are

PACKED full of vitamins.
Vitamins are organic compounds necessary in the diet for

normal fish growth and health. They must be supplied in the
diet.
There are two groups of vitamins are water-soluble and

fat-soluble.
Water-soluble vitamins include: the B vitamins, choline,

inositol, folic acid, pantothenic acid, biotin and ascorbic acid
(vitamin C). Of these, vitamin C is the most important because
it is a powerful antioxidant and helps the immune system in
fish. Closely followed by the B vitamins.
The fat-soluble vitamins include a vitamins, D vitamins, E

vitamins, and K vitamins. Of these, vitamin E receives the
most attention for its important role as an antioxidant.
Most vegetables will have most of these in them, but we

will look for foods that are mainly high in vitamin B, C and E.
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These are the most responsible for proper growth and health in
a fish.
These 3 vitamins are typically highest in GREEN

vegetables. That makes selection much easier.
My 4 favorite veggies to use are: Green peas, Romaine

lettuce, spinach and spirulina.
All 4 of these are jam packed with vitamins.
Most of you vitamin B’s will come from your meats

however.
The 4 ingredients listed above are what I consider super

foods. Especially the peas and spirulina.
Spirulina being the best of all. It contains at least 60%
vegetable protein and very high in many minerals and
vitamins.
Minerals:
Minerals are inorganic elements necessary in the diet for

normal body functions. The plus side is they are already in the
foods listed above in quantity and variety enough to sustain
any fish.
The plus side to fish is they can also absorb minerals from
the water through their skin and gills which will help make up
for any lack of minerals in their diets. Water changes being
important to continuously supply and replace those minerals.
Color enhancers
So we know what or fish need to flourish on a proper diet, but
let’s look at a big reason we’re considering a DIY food. If
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you’re like me, I want my fish’s colors to pop! I want them to
display in the most vivid coloration possible! I want my fish to
be all they can!
To understand how we can enhance coloration in a fish,

we must first understand why a fish is the color it is. The 3
biggest contributors are:
 Genetics - Genetics will determine whether a fish has

the genetic material necessary to show a certain color.
 Diet - Some ingredients in the diet that the fish eats can
directly or indirectly influence their color.
 Environment - The last thing that will effect coloration
can be a fish’s mood and general health. A sick fish is
probably less colorful than a healthy one. An aquarium
with pristine water will probably display fish with
better coloration than the same fish in a “dirty”
aquarium. Sex can also have a huge influence on
coloration and so can dominance.
Obviously the best we can do for genetics and

environment is picking healthy and ideal shaped fish then
place them into a well-balanced and healthy aquarium.
We cannot influence a fish to show a color that its

genetics will not allow it to however. If that genetic material is
not within the fish, it simply will not show in the fish no
matter what we do.
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What we can do is influence the already present colors in
a fish with their diet.
The substance that influences fish coloration the most is

called carotenoids. Carotenoids are a compound produced by
plants, algae, and some fungi.
Almost all fish do not produce carotenoids on their own.

They have to get them by injecting plants with them present,
OR by eating another animal that ate them, and no it is present
in that animal.
Let’s take a look at an

Pro tip #41
example of how a diet can
influence color. Astaxanthin is the king of
carotenoids. If you plan to
add in any color
A basic market shrimp. enhancing supplement,
make sure it is this!
Why are they pink? Well,
Shrimp eat algae and bacteria.
That algae and bacteria that they eat contains astaxanthin.
Astaxanthin is a carotenoid.
Now ever wonder why a flamingo is pink? Because they

eat shrimp. The astaxanthin present in the shrimp from eating
the algae is ingested by the flamingo.
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So what if we wanted to turn our pink fish pinker, or even
red? Should we just feed it shrimp? You could, but it would
take a lot of shrimp to notice a difference. Or would it make
more sense to jump right to the astaxanthin?
So if carotenoids are what mainly influence a fishes color,

shouldn’t we just add that directly to our food mix? YES!!
We will take a look at carotenoids responsible for

influencing the main colors of fish.
Red/pink:
Astaxanthin is probably the most widely used carotenoid
in fish foods. It is widely regarded as the king of carotenoids
due to its potency. It is produced by marine algae and bacteria.
You can get this in health food stores as a powder.
Orange:
Paprika, made from a dried ground pepper, is high is a
carotenoid called beta-carotene. You might have heard of this
before, as it is actually the reason carrots are orange!
Yellow:
Zeaxanthin and lutein are the most widely known yellow
carotenoids. This will be found in less popular fish food
ingredients like maize and yellow bell peppers. It is also in
egg yolk.
528
Blue/green:
Spirulina powder is not a carotenoid, but this blue/green
algae is said to have an impact on blue coloration.
The result:
It has been found that any fish to consume Astaxanthin
and beta-carotene will intensify in color, regardless of its
color. They will metabolize those carotenoids and still use
them. So it would be wise to at least add one of these if
anything else.
The mixture:
How much of which ingredient should you be suing in
your mix? Well, as mentioned
previously, we should have Pro tip #42
proper mixes depending on the Buy yourself a cheap
species. digital food scale to help
Given what I have listed in weigh out your food. You
will be able to feed a
this chapter thus far, we will much more controlled
simply lay out ratios. This is diet with one.
actually very simple to follow.
Herbivorous species: 15% protein requirement

 1 part meat
 1.5 part veggie
Omnivorous species: 25% protein requirement

 2 part meat
 1 part veggie
Carnivorous species: 40% protein requirement

 3 parts meat
 1 part veggie
529
Now we will take a look at actually making it!
How to make DIY food
In this example, I will show you how to mix it all

together.
This mix is what I am using to feed over 200+ discus.
The ingredients in it are:
 454 grams of beef heart

 454 grams of market shrimp
 454 grams of tilapia fillet
 300 grams of peas
 100 grams of spinach
 50 grams of spirulina
 2 tea spoons of Astaxanthin
 3 egg yolks
This gives me everything I need using nothing but fresh

ingredients.
Since peas are such a super food, I believe they are a must
in any DIY food. However, they are extremely DIFFICULT to
peal. We can’t feed them with the skins on, and removing
them would take hours. So what I do is buy 100% organic
baby food peas. It is just peeled peas and water. Nothing else.
The water helps keep the consistency easy enough to work
with as well.
530
Take a look at the label for yourself. You can get so many
different vegetables this way, and they are just as good, yet
already blended!
The first thing you will want to do is prepare your meats

to be blended. They are much easier to blend if they are
chopped up into manageable chunks, so cut them up first.
With beef heart, we want to remove ALL fat and anything
else on it that is not red meat. Usually, they come looking like
this:
531
So chop that up into managable pieces and start slicing off
the fat.
Once the fat is removed, we can now use it.
Prepare everything individually; blending it up one at a

time on its own. Then dup all ingredients into one mixing
bowl.
532
Once you have added all ingredients into one bowl, you
can now continue to mix it all together until it is all the same
concistancy and thouroughly mixed.
Minus the weight of the bowl, you can see my mix was
exactly 4 pounds as planned.
Once completely mixed, we can start adding it to a zip

lock bag. Adding 90 grams seems to be the ideal amount.
533
Once in the baggies, you can flatten them out using a flat
plastic card like a drivers licence. The ideal thickness would
be 3-4mm thick. Any thicker, and it becomes too difficult to
feed.
Once you have all of your food in bags, you can lay them
flat in the freezer. They will keep in there for 3-6 months if no
oxygen is in the bag. When you’re ready to feed, simply snap
off a small piece and drop it in the tank! Feeding should only
534
be as much as your fish will eat in 3-5 minutes. This will take
some practice to figure out the right amounts.
You fish will eventually go nuts for it like these baby

discus are for the same mix I just showed how to make!
DIY food can be the best thing for your fish if done right.
Typically speaking, it makes more of a mess than anything
with very large fish that tend to be messy eaters though.
I like to feed DIY food to any fish under 6” in length.

Know exactly what is in my food certainly does put me
more at ease.
Being able to save a ton of money while not sacrificing

quality is also a huge bonus.
If your curious as to how long this food will last you, here
is an example:
The 4 pounds of food I made in the example will feed my
200+ discus for about 3 weeks.
HOWEVER, if I was only feeding 6 adults, it would feed
them for at least 5 months!
535
CHAPTER 11
Power outages & failed equipment
When you think about it, we are keeping live animals on

life support systems.
The animals we keep are fish and other aquatic life. They
depend on the life support systems that we provide.
Remember when we talked about this in the filtration

portion of this book?
 Filtration is the heart of your system. Circulating the

water throughout the entire aquarium.
 Filtration is the lungs of your system. Delivering
oxygen to your aquarium.
 Filtration is the liver of your system. Removing and
filtering out harmful compounds from your system.
What happens if we shut this system off? How long will

the life in your aquarium survive without it? Hours? Days?
Your fish will start to show signs of distress in as little as

a few minutes. Maybe it might take a couple of hours.
Obviously this will come down to stocking and what you have
in the tank, but it is safe to say that the effects of removing
their filtration or heating would be the fastest way to kill your
fish.
536
We can’t control when your power goes out, or when a
piece of equipment fails. Since we don’t have any control over
it, we can at least be ready for it.
In this chapter, I will prepare you for the worst. You

power might go out, or your equipment might fail.
We will break this chapter into 2 sections:
 How to survive a power outage

 Building emergency equipment
How to survive a power outage
You power shuts off….
Now what?
We panic! When will the power come back on?!?! What

do I do??
Well, let’s first look at what happens in the tank when the
power goes out.
 Fish will continue to produce ammonia.

 Fish will continue to breathe.
 Fish body temperature will drop.
So these are the top 3 issues we will face that if not

addressed, could kill your fish.
537
 We need a way to continue to filter the water.
 We need a way to aerate the water.
 We need a way to heat the water.
Ammonia is deadly to your fish, we need to continuously

filter it out of the water. If not, this is the fastest way your fish
will die.
Your fish will continuously strip the water of oxygen, we

need a way to add it back in, or make the oxygen exchange of
the water faster. If we don’t, the fish will eventually “drown”.
Fish cannot control their body temperature. Whatever the

temperature of the water is, their body temperature will be. If
we don’t do anything about the temperature, the fish will
eventually die.
So we know what will happen in the event of a power

outage, but what can we do?
If we don’t plan to do anything about it, we can at least

lower the chances of death with a few simple steps.
 NEVER feed the tank during a power outage. Your

fish will be completely fine for a few days without
food. No feeding will lower ammonia production.
 Remove all biological media from your filter and add it
into the aquarium. This will keep the bacteria alive,
and help continue the nitrogen cycle. When the power
comes back on, you can add it back to the filter and not
have a dead filter.
538
 Every hour or so, scoop water out of the tank and pour
it back in. Pour it from about a foot away from the
surface. The pouring action and the turbulence it
causes will aid in oxygen exchange in the water.
 Cover the aquarium with a blanket. This will help with
insulating the aquarium and help hold in the heat that
is left in the aquarium.
These simple steps could potentially save your fish’s life.

At the very least, it’s better than doing nothing at all.
Most of us want to do more though. Most of us don’t

want to risk potentially losing our fish. So we need to take
further steps and build filters and heaters; the two most
important pieces of equipment in an aquarium.
Building emergency equipment
I this section we will look at the two most important

things you can do during a power outage:
 Keep filtering your aquarium
 Keep heating your aquarium
To do this, we will need to build a filter and a heater.

There are many ways to do this, but we will look at the
easiest way to do it. After all, during an emergency, you want
a fast and easy way to save your fish.
DIY FILTER:
Ultimately, you only need one thing to make a filter that
needs no power.
539
We will rely on batteries instead. A battery powered air
pump can last over 4 hours, and some models a lot longer.
We will use the battery powered air pump to create an

internal air powered filter.
Supplies needed:
 Battery powered air pump

 Water bottle
 Airline hose
 Suction cup
Battery powered air pump: There are many different

brands you can buy, all being around $15. This device is
something you should have anyways as a backup pump. Some
will even plug into your wall and detect when the power goes
out. Then turn on automatically.
These will all generally take “D” size batteries(2).
540
On the top of the pump is a spout for an airline, as well as
an “on/off” switch.
Opening up the pump reveals where the batteries go.
A battery powered air pump has many uses. Including

using it to aerate the water, using it when traveling with fish,
or building emergency filters!
541
Water bottle: A
basic, clean water
bottle is all that is
needed. Depending on
the amount of media
you have in your filter,
will depict the size
needed.
Airline hose: Airline hose is generally very common.

You only need enough to reach from the pump to the
aquarium.
Suction cup:
You need one suction
cup.
542
Step 1:
Drill a few holes in the water bottle cap. Drill them at
least ¼” around.
Step 2:
Drill a hole in the side of the bottle neck. This hole needs
to be slightly smaller than your air hose.
543
Step 3:
Drill a hole in the side of the bottle. Large enough to
allow the nub on your suction cup to squeeze in. If you can no
find a suction cup at your local pet store, try your one off an
old heater or some other piece of equipment. You will also
need to drill a few holes near the bottom of the bottle.
Step 4:
Insert suction cup into the side of the bottle. This should
be a snug fit.
544
Step 5:
Insert air hose into bottle neck where the hole was drill
slightly smaller than the diameter of the hose.
Step 6:
Fill the bottle with biological media from existing filter.
Place cap on bottle. Adding a sponge to the end to use as a
pre-filter is optional for this project as this is used in an
emergency. Mechanical filtration is not a huge concern.
545
Step 7:
Install in aquarium. Insure the bottle is upside down. Plug in

pump.
This filter will continue to filter your aquarium and keep

both your fish and bacteria alive. It will also aid in oxygen
exchange at the surface of the aquarium by creating agitation.
This kills two birds with one stone.
Now we can move onto options for heating the aquarium.
DIY HEATER:
In this section, we will cover two ways to heat your
aquarium. Both will use the same principle of using a water
bottle to do so.
1St heater:
Supplies needed:
 Water bottle
 Water
 Propane stove
 Pot
546
Water bottle: In
this case, we only want
to use a 500ml water
bottle. You can use
several in the same
tank, but 500ml size
would be the limit so
they do not have the
ability to overheat the
aquarium.
Water: Your power is out, which means you might not

have access to running water. Using your aquarium water will
be fine for this.
Propane stove and pot: A small pot and small

“camping” style stove is all that you need. We need a way to
bring water to a boil.
547
So you can probably guess where I am going with this.
Bring the water to a boil, and then pour it in the water

bottle. Put the cap on the bottle and drop it in your aquarium
and allow it to float.
This will act as your aquariums heater and will last a few
hours. Monitor the temperature and remove the bottle as
needed, or add more bottles. The number of bottles needed
will depend on the size of your aquarium, the room
temperature and the temperature you want your aquarium at.
Having 2-3 bottles handy will run a 100+ gallon aquarium
with easy.
Insure you have your battery powered air pump running

to help distribute and circulate the heat.
2nd heater:
Supplies needed:
 Water bottle
 Water
 Calcium chloride
Water bottle: We
can use any size water
bottle we would like to.
This heater only heats up
to about 40C so no real
chance of overheating the
aquarium with it.
548
Calcium chloride:
Basically, this is a salt
of calcium and chlorine.
Commonly sold for around
$20 for a 50 pound bag! Its
use is for melting ice in most
areas. When mixed with
water, it heats the water up
to about 40C. Being one of
the most common food
additives that we consume, it is also safe for what we are
going to use it for.
Water: Your power is out, which means you might not

have access to running water. Using your aquarium water will
be fine for this.
This is a simple heater to create. Mix 1 part calcium

chloride to 3 parts water.
Put the cap on the bottle, shake it up, and then drop it in
your tank. This will give you a heater that will last for a few
hours depending on how much you use.
Again, Monitor the temperature and remove the bottle as

needed, or add more bottles. The number of bottles needed
will depend on the size of your aquarium, the room
temperature and the temperature you want your aquarium at.
Having 2-3 bottles handy will run a 100+ gallon

aquarium with easy.
Insure you have your battery powered air pump running
to help distribute and circulate the heat.
549
Conclusion
So now you have a massive amount of information at your
disposal, the big question is:
What will you do with it?
Will you build a new aquarium that sits on the stand you built?
Will it be filtered with a filter you designed and built?
Or maybe it will be lit by the light you built? Perhaps the fish
you stock this tank are fed with food you made?
Maybe you’ll start to build things for other people with the
new skills you have learned… When is the last time you heard
of a service like that being available in your area?
Maybe you just thought of a new side income!
This book might have had an impact on how you view the
hobby. It might also have an impact on how much more
affordable this hobby now is for you.
Maybe, and just maybe you turn what you learned in this book
into some form of money making business and this book now
has had an impact on your life!
Doors are now opened to you that may not have been opened
before.
I am on the other side of that door welcoming you in!
Joey Mullen: The KING of DIY

550

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DIY Aquarium Handbook

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The ultimate DIY handbook:

For the DIY aquarist

*Licensed for single use only*

First issue: Oct. 15 2013

The king of DIY

Without your unconditional support and patience, I would

Chapter 1 - How to build aquariums

Chapter 2 - Aquarium stands and canopies Page 92

Chapter 3 – Aquarium repair Page 118

Chapter 4 - Bracing your floor Page 158

Fluidized filters: Page 272

Chapter 6 – plumbing Page 290

Chapter 7 –Lighting Page 327

Chapter 8 – Equipment Page 354

Chapter 9 – Decorations Page 477

Chapter 10 – Food Page 518

Chapter 11 – Power outages & failed equipment Page 536

Conclusion Page 550

Let’s discuss what DIY means though. You purchased

1. You want to save money on an already expensive

So let’s get one thing straight before we move on: “DIY”

I firmly believe in keeping things simple in this hobby.

Simplicity And Consistency Is Key. (S.A.C.I.K)

As you read this book, I want you to feel comfortable

So know this; this book literally took years to gain the

These have been done countless times by me. This book

The years it took for me to be able to do this and the

Building an aquarium is easily the most popular and

Before attempting any aquarium build, make SURE you

In this chapter, I will help you discover:

Once you complete reading this chapter, you will

This will be broken down into 6 parts:

1. Choosing the tank size.

If you need a tank for a specific species of fish, or are

So now that we know what size tank we want, is it even

The monthly running costs will vary depending on your

This is a very typical running cost. In some cases, it could

Can my floor hold it? The obvious answer here is to

When is a specialist needed? In my opinion, you will be

How do you tell what size an aquarium is? This is

Budget – We usually will always have a set budget for a

Skill – Skill can be broken down into several aspects. If

Availability – This is a big

Time – DO NOT under value yourself. Do not forget that your

After considering the above points, we can now keep

There are 4 main aspects to choosing:

1: Price: Glass and acrylic prices vary greatly based on

2: Availability: Where can you buy glass or acrylic?

We will cover more on that later. With glass, you need

If you make a mistake, you can Need help deciding what

They differ in both physical and optical properties. Both

The light transmission of acrylic is 93%

So obviously acrylic has

Distortion: We all know that when you look into an

This is called refraction of light.

The air we breathe for example has a refraction of light of

Glass has a refraction of light of 1.53

With acrylic having the less amount of light being refracted,

The clear winner here is obviously acrylic. It is the superior

Now let’s take a look at the physical properties of each.

Strength: There are a couple of things to consider when

Glass has a tensile strength averaging 2.5Xs stronger than

Insulation: This is something that is actually pretty

Durability: When it comes to durability, we look at

Licensed for single use only