ADOBE PHOTOSHOP

2023
USER GUIDE

A Detailed and Perfect Guide on How to

Master the Art of Image and Video Editing
with Tips and Tricks for
Beginners and Experts

GOLDEN MCPHERSON
Copyright © 2023 by GOLDEN MCPHERSON
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,
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the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief
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uses permitted by copyright law.

Disclaimer!
"The information provided within this Book is for general informational
purposes only. While we try to keep the information up-to-date and correct,
there are no representations or warranties, express or implied, about the
completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to
the information, products, services, or related graphics contained in this Book
for any purpose. Any use of the methods describe within this Book are the
author’s personal thoughts. They are not intended to be a definitive set of
instructions for this project. You may discover there are other methods and
materials to accomplish the same end result."
 TABLE OF CONTENTS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Features of Adobe Photoshop
Workspace Layout
Palette of tools
Crop Tool: Common tools
History and UNDO colour scheme
Cropping and Orientation
The crop tool is utilized
Cropping and Resizing
Resize images
Image scaling in Photoshop
Colour, Contrast, and Tone
Level Adjustment
Levels are used to adjust colours
Burning and Dodging
Burning and Dodging
Sharpen
Export and Save
Compression
Resizing
Exporting vs. Saving
CHAPTER ONE
FEATURES OF ADOBE PHOTOSHOP 2023
Adobe Photoshop – Layers
Adobe Photoshop – Selection Tools
Marquee selection instruments
Adobe Photoshop – Pen tool
Adobe Photoshop – Shapes
Adobe Photoshop – Vector Mask
Adobe Photoshop – Slice Tool
Adobe Photoshop – Retouching Tools
Adobe Photoshop – Photoshop 3D
Adobe Photoshop – Smart Objects
Adobe Photoshop – Adobe Creative Cloud
HOW TO OPEN PHOTO
 Photoshop has two modes of operation
How to launch Photoshop's Home Screen and launch an image
Open a recently created file
Putting a picture to bed
Reopening the Home Screen picture
How to access a different picture from your home screen
How to navigate between various open images
How to use Photoshop's File menu to open photos
How to save a photo in Photoshop
How to use Photoshop to open raw files
The Camera Raw plug-in for Photoshop
The best way to transfer an image from Camera Raw to Photoshop
HOW TO SAVE WORKS
A Photoshop file being saved
Publish a file you've saved.
Saving Pictures (for printing)
WHAT ADOBE CAMERA RAW
A digital darkroom called Camera Raw
Camera Raw Photo Opening Instructions
How to Use Camera Raw for Image Editing
How to Save Camera Raw Photos
CHAPTER TWO
PIXEL ART
The Crucial Pixel Art Tools
The Spriting Process
HOW TO SET UP ADOBE PHOTOSHOP FOR PIXEL ART
Getting Started
Making a New File
Install Adobe Photoshop to create pixel art
The Nearest Neighbor setting
Activate the Grid
Make a Pixel Art Drawing
Get the pencil tool ready
UNDERSTANDING ADOBE PHOTOSHOP 2023
One-Stop Design Package
How to Apply the Pencil Tool
CHAPTER THREE
HOW TO RESAMPLE AN IMAGE SIZE
GIMP Image Resizing Techniques Without Losing Quality
How to Use a Service to Resize an Image in Your Browser
HOW TO USE THE IMAGE RESIZE TOOL
The Image Size Adjustment
Modify your image resolution
In Photoshop, how to resize your canvas
Stretching Pictures When Resizing
HOW TO CHANGE THE SIZE OF A PICTURE WITH THE TRANSFORM TOOL
Image resizing using Free Transform
Unlocking the aspect ratio
Tips for moving the selection outline
How to rotate the choice outline
How to reverse a change
The options for Skew, Distort, and Perspective
Skew
Distort
Perspective
Using Transform Selection, how to distort a selection outline
The best way to clear the warp grid
Methods for embracing change
How to reverse a transformation selection
Transform Selection is chosen
The selection outline is scaled back
A selection outline that is distorted
Return to the default mode for Transform Selection
Acknowledging the change
Creating a layer mask using the selection's outline
Background with a single color
Shifting the picture
RESIZING A PICTURE USING PRESET TEMPLATES
Utilizing Smart Resize
Resizing Design Templates
HOW TO USE A GRADIENT MASK IN ADOBE PHOTOSHOP
HOW TO SET UP AND ALIGN THUMBNAILS IN ADOBE PHOTOSHOP ON A PAGE
HOW TO USE PANELS IN ADOBE PHOTOSHOP
HOW TO MAKE THE MOST VARIABLE FONTS IN ADOBE PHOTOSHOP
 MONITOR CALIBRATION
When ought a calibration to be performed?
ZOOMING IN PHOTOSHOP
Zooming in on a certain area of the picture
Using the "Scrubby" Zoom
How to utilize the Photoshop Hand tool
Keyboard shortcut for a hand tool
Using the Navigator panel, magnify and pan
HOW TO USE PHOTOSHOP HAND TOOL
The Function of the Hand Tool
Most Popular Uses
Useful Features
When to Employ a Hand Tool
HAND TOOL KEYBOARD SHORTCUT
CHAPTER FOUR
HOW TO UNDO A COMMAN
Legacy Undo Shortcuts
The Panel for History
HOW TO MAKE A PICTURE STRAIGHT AND HOW TO CROP IT
Place a crop border.
Create a custom crop border.
Crop by aspect ratio
Implement the crop overlay
To a chosen boundary, crop
Utilize content-aware crop filling
Make use of the perspective crop tool
How to make a cropped photo straight in Photoshop
How to adjust the canvas size in Photoshop
How to retrieve erased pixels back in Photoshop when trimming
HOW TO ADJUST THE LAYER SIZE
Perspective-enhancing scale components.
Text Resizing
How can I alter a layer's size in Photoshop?
HOW TO ADJUST BRIGHTNESS AND CONTRAST
Use the Histogram for Ideas
Making use of the Contrast/Brightness Adjustment Layer
CHAPTER FIVE
HOW TO ADJUST COLOR VIBRANCY
Using vibrancy
MODIFICATION OF SATURATION AND HUE
HOW TO UNLOCK BACKGROUND LAYER
The Locked Layer's Duplication
Background Layer to Smart Object Conversion
The Background Layer Is Locked, Why?
HOW TO USE QUICK SELECTION TOOL
What Is the Quick Selection Tool?
How Do You Use Photoshop's Quick Selection Tool?
Reproducing a Layer
Choosing Your Option
Background Opening
Making Background Changes
HOW TO USE LASSO TOOL
The Three Different Lasso Tools
Utilizing the Lasso Tool
Making Your Choice More Specific Using The Lasso Tools
How to End the Path of Your Lasso Tool
CHAPTER SIX
USING THE MAGIC WAND TOOL
What exactly is a magic wand tool?
What can you accomplish with the Magic Wand tool?
How to select and mask in Photoshop with the Magic Wand Tool
What Situations Call for the Magic Wand Tool in Product Photos?
HOW TO USE THE MAGNETIC LASSO TOOL
How to Use the Magnetic Lasso Tool in Adobe Photoshop
Automatically Snaps Magnetic Lasso to Object Edges
Correct Choices created with the Magnetics Lasso Tool in Adobe Photoshop
HOW TO USE THE POLYGONAL LASSO TOOL
Making Straight-Sided Polygonal Selections
Changing From the Standard Lasso Tool to the Polygonal Lasso Tool
A Selection's Removal
TYPES OF ERASER TOOLS
How to Use the Photoshop Eraser Tool
Eraser
Background Eraser
 Eraser Magic
Select and modify Opacity.
Pencil Tool with Auto Erase
HOW TO USE WHITE BALANCE
Cast in color
Flat Pictures
Saturation
White Balance Correction in Photoshop
White Balance Adjustment Automatic Utilizing Curves
Utilizing Curves
Modification to lessen the reds
Adjusting the camera's white balance.
The lighting should be constant.
Avoid overcorrecting.
COLOUR TEMPERATURES
How to alter the color temperature in Lightroom in detail
Instructions for adjusting the color temperature in Photoshop
USE OF SQUARE BRUSHES
Square Brushes in Photoshop: How to Load Them
Making Custom Square Brushes in Photoshop
CHAPTER SEVEN
HOW TO WORK WITH BRUSHES
Other tools that employ Brush settings
HOW TO ERASE LITTLE OBJECTS
HOW TO FINE-TUNE A SELECTION
ADDING OBJECTS OR ITEMS BY CLONING
Conclusion
HOW TO USE COLOR IN THE FOREGROUND AND BACKGROUND
Choosing Colors
HOW TO EDIT TEXT
How to Insert Paragraphs in Photoshop
How to Edit Text in Photoshop with Adobe
In Adobe Photoshop, how to Change and Move Text
HOW TO ADD A BUILT-IN CUSTOM SHAPE
Making A Custom Shape Out Of An Image
How to Convert a Path into a Custom Shape
HOW TO FORM A GRAPHIC SHAPE
 HOW TO ADD A TEXTURE TO A PHOTO
Define a texture
Texturing in layers
CONCLUSION
CHAPTER EIGHT
USING SPOT HEALING TOOL
Healing Brush and Clone Stamp Tool vs Spot Healing Brush
The Spot Healing Brush: How to Use It
How to Take a Line Out
Spacing
Fusion Mode
Useful hints for the Spot Healing Brush instrument
Conclusion
HOW TO USE THE CLONE STAMP TOOL
Retouching Photos Utilizing the Clone Stamp Tool
What Can You Do With the Clone Stamp Tool?
HOW TO IMPORT AND EXPORT IMAGES
Importing Photos
Exporting Photos
How to Insert a Cropped Image Into Another Photo on a Mac
HOW TO OPEN RAW FILES
How To Use Camera Raw To Open Pictures
A RAW file should be opened in Photoshop.
Using Smart Objects with Adobe Camera Raw
How To Use Adobe Bridge To Open Camera Raw
HOW TO CREATE A SHARED ALBUM AND INVITE PEOPLE TO CONTRIBUTE
Take away things from a shared album
Edit a picture in a shared album.
CHAPTER NINE
TROUBLESHOOTING ISSUES
INDEX
 INTRODUCTION
A photo-editing program is called Photoshop. It is a well-known software
program for altering images. The American brothers Thomas and John Knoll
created it in 1987. Raster Graphic and Vector Graphic are the two categories
of graphic software. This program offers a wide range of picture editing
options for both vector graphics and raster (pixel-based) images. Photoshop is
a RASTER graphic software, which means that it is used to modify raster
visuals, in technical terms.
The industry standard program for editing any type of digital image is Adobe
Photoshop. Images may come from a digital camera, scans, stock photo
libraries, already-existing artwork that is web-ready, or even entirely
Photoshop-created graphics.
Photoshop offers a huge range of applications in several fields, from graphic
designers to photographers. Because of the program's versatility, it is used to
edit photos and design graphics.
A RASTER is made up of several pixels. Raster graphics are pictures made
out of a collection of pixels. Raster graphics come in a variety of formats.
Joint Photographic Experts Group (JPEG)
Portable Network Graphics (PNG)
Graphics Interchange Format (GIF)
Designers, web developers, graphic artists, photographers, and other creative
workers use Photoshop as a tool. In several industries, it is utilized. A logo
for the website is first created in Photoshop by the web designer. The user
interface for an application is first created in Photoshop by the application
designer. Even so, the designer of 3D games employs Photoshop to produce a
digital painting of each figure. Using these techniques, one may also create
Matte Painting scenes, which are remarkable because they are unreal types of
scenes.

Features of Adobe Photoshop

Resize or crop pictures
Make tonal adjustments, such as bringing a dark image to light.
 Image colour retouching
Removing dust and scratches
"Improve" images that may only appear passable
Clarifying and honing focus
Various file formats for opening or saving
What cannot be done with Adobe Photoshop:
Clarify an extremely fuzzy photo
You can enlarge a very small image you discovered online without
losing any quality.
Recover a poor shot that is extremely dark or, worse, extremely
brilliant.
Workspace Layout
Let's start by becoming acquainted with Photoshop's default layout.

The Adobe Photoshop workspace can be used in a wide variety of settings to

suit the needs of diverse businesses. As a result, it's simple to make changes
that make the application almost unrecognizable. Change the layout to the
default mode when using this lesson to maintain consistent with the photos
we provide.
Select "Essentials (Default)" from the Window "Workspace" selection on the
top menu bar.
This will set the windows and different "palettes" to their default
configuration. You'll see that this menu now offers options to save a specific
layout in addition to the other basic layout selections. This is especially
beneficial for shared computers that are used by numerous users.
Options Bar
Now let's examine the top options bar:

On Mac computers, the main menu is immediately below this options bar.
The important thing to understand about this specific workspace area is that it
is contextual in nature. As a result, depending on the tool that is used,
different possibilities will be offered. The selection tool's options are shown
in the example image up top. You will be presented with many alternatives
for each of the tools as you click through them.

Palette of tools
The default toolbox in Photoshop is well-known. Many of the icons
Photoshop uses for its tools are now considered industry standards for many
kinds of software. The symbols used in the tools palette are the same for
software used for web design, music editing, video editing, and many other
applications.
(This tool palette image may resemble your computer slightly differently in
that there are two rows of tools instead of one. In order for the sample image
to fit in this tutorial, this was done on purpose.)
One feature of each of these tools is the tiny triangle that can be seen in the
bottom right corner of each button. There are multiple tools available in that
button, as indicated by the tiny arrow.

When you click and hold down the button, a little window containing other
tools will appear, allowing you to see the other possibilities.
Crop Tool: Common tools
To remove a section of your shot, use the crop tool. This is one method of
reducing the size of a photo. There are more choices that let you crop and
resize the image simultaneously. One of the few tools without any hidden
tools behind it is the crop tool.

The Lasso Tool: Is used to pick out a particular area of a picture. With the
help of this tool, create a shape on your image that will serve as a selection
marquee (also known as "marching ants"). Now, any changes you make will
only have an impact on this area of the image. When you click and hold this
button, more selection tools that let you choose in different ways are
displayed.

The Text Tool: Is rather simple to use. You can include text with your
image. There are two ways to use the text tool. You have two options for
adding text to your image: you may click once to add lined text using the text
tool, or you can click-and-drag to add a text box that lets you format the area
that your text fills. Once you save the document for Web publication,
whatever text you add to your image will be included in it.
The Dodge and Burn Tools: are a nod to the days of printing in a darkroom.
In a darkroom, the photographic paper would get lighter if you used a piece
of cardboard to block (dodge) light from it. Or, one may drive light into a
specific location by forming a hole with their hands, darkening (burning) the
image there. You are able to achieve that thanks to these tools. Keep an eye
on the top-left option bar settings. In particular, the opacity setting enables
you to gradually apply these technologies.

Photoshop's Clone Tool: Also known as the rubber stamp, has both
blessings and curses. By sampling a certain portion of a photo and stamping
it in a different location, it enables the user to change the image in some
rather drastic ways. Hold the ALT key down while you sample. Although
using this instrument is often regarded as unethical in most journalistic
senses, it can be effectively used to remove any dust that could have been on
the lens when the photo was taken.
History and UNDO colour scheme
The "undo" command, Command-Z (Mac) or CTRL-Z (PC), will reverse the
last action you did, as is common with most professional production
software. When you use this keyboard shortcut in Photoshop, you can only
undo the previous action. The identical combination then functions as a
REDO command.
UNDO is your ally.
You need to open the History palette in order to undo multiple actions. By
selecting the Window History option, you can achieve this.

The History palette is docked in a bar on the right side of the screen
along with a few other palettes.
To display the windows, click on the respective icon.
Alternatively, you can grab the windows and move them around the
screen by dragging them there.
Every action you do within the software will be listed in the history
palette. Simply clicking on the item in the list that comes before an
action will undo all of the ones listed after it.
It will reverse any previously undone actions once you have finished
 another action.
Cropping and Orientation
1.Displaying a picture
Select "Open" from the File menu to view an image.

However, let's take a quick look at the Browse in Bridge option first. As soon
as you click it, Adobe Bridge, a different program, will open up in addition to
Photoshop. Thumbnails from folders can be previewed using Bridge. In the
event that you have a large number of photographs and are unsure of the
image name you're looking for, this is an excellent solution.

2.Image Rotation
Image rotation may occasionally be necessary when images are being output
by a camera. Most contemporary cameras feature sensors that can tell what
direction the camera was facing when you snapped the picture and will
automatically straighten it for you. The sensor can malfunction from time to
time, or, more likely, you're getting an image from a scanner, in which case
you'll probably need to rotate your image.
It's not too difficult to rotate pictures. Image Rotation can be chosen by going
to the image menu.

Depending on which direction the photo is facing, you will most likely need
to choose either 90 degrees Counter Clockwise (90 CCW) or 90 degrees
Clockwise (90 CW). If the image is completely upside down, click 180
degrees.
The crop tool is utilized

To resize your crop, tap and drag on the black bars and corners around the
box (known as anchor points).
When you hover over the boxes, you'll notice that your mouse pointer
transforms into various arrows that show how clicking on each anchor point
will shape the crop.
To transform your cursor into a curve, move your mouse cursor just outside
one of the corner boxes. This curve suggests that your crop will rotate. In
general, you should avoid tilting your crop, however on rare occasions, if the
picture was taken at an angle, this is an excellent way to straighten your crop.
There are several ways you can confirm or cancel your crop. At the top right
of the choices bar, you can utilize the cancel icon (which resembles a no-
smoking circle) or the OK icon (which resembles a checkmark).

You can also employ a few quite basic keyboard shortcuts. To confirm your
crop, press Return (Enter on a PC), or to cancel it, press the Esc key.
Alternatively, you can use the mouse to confirm the crop by double-clicking
inside the image. If you click on another tool, a warning dialogue box will
appear asking you to confirm or cancel.
Cropping and Resizing
While cropping, the image can actually be resized. In essence, you are
instructing Photoshop as to what dimensions the image should take after
being cropped. Because your crop box will be forced into a specific ratio if
you lock in the dimensions, this is occasionally the source of some
misunderstanding.

While selecting the crop tool, fill out the width and height fields in the choice
bar. Concerning the resolution, just remember that it's for printing. Enter the
following dimensions if you're using the tutorial image provided:
Width: 600 px height: 400 px
Significant! Observe the PX prefix. Because Photoshop may default to "in,"
which stands for "inches," this is highly essential. Printing can be done using
Photoshop for a variety of tasks. Over 1000 pixels are the typical monitor
width. However, when you convert 1000 pixels to inches, you only get 13.9
inches. As a result, if you unintentionally type 1000in, your screen will be
wider than 72,000 pixels! You'll see that the box shape is locked to a specific
ratio when you draw the box. You can only change the box's size; you cannot
make it longer or taller.
Since you can relocate the box by clicking on the marquee after drawing it,
don't worry if you think it's in the wrong place. Additionally, be cautious
while cropping small. You might actually be increasing your shot if there are
enough pixels in the clipped area, which is strictly forbidden in digital
imaging. Images can be shrunk by computers rather easily, but they can't be
enlarged as easily. Photoshop must utilize unique techniques to fill in the
pixels in order to enlarge a small image. While it's not horrible if you are
enlarging in little steps, if you push it too much the quality will be
significantly diminished.

Resize images
Image scaling in Photoshop
An image can be resized without having to crop it. If you were going to crop
the image anyhow, that's just an added bonus. Photoshop provides a lot of
options if you want to resize your image without cropping it. The first way is
demonstrated here, and the second method is demonstrated when saving your
photo in a later section of this guide. Toggle the image menu on. Here is
where you'll find the ability to resize an image.

The picture resize dialogue box will appear once it is opened. This box will
offer a wide range of possibilities for various uses.
You can see the image's current size when the dialogue box first appears.
Simply enter the desired height and width numbers to resize the image.
Keep in mind that pixels are Photoshop's default dimension setting. You can
leave this as-is if you're only utilizing your image for web purposes. You can
select inches or another dimension as necessary if you intend to print the
image and require a specified size.
Also take note of the link icon, which is by default highlighted, that is located
next to the width and height details.

As a result, the images' proportions are constrained; for example, if you

modify the height or width, the other value will also change in accordance
with the ratio of the two dimensions. In order to avoid distorting the image,
you should constantly leave this indicator highlighted.
If the width and weight cannot be changed for some reason, resample is not
selected. You can modify the size by resampling the image, in technical
terms.
Make the width 600 pixels in order to follow along. Depending on the
image's aspect ratio, the height will change automatically.
Colour, Contrast, and Tone
The ability of Photoshop to adjust an image's tonal qualities is one of its main
strengths. We'll demonstrate a few different ways to edit an image in this
example. In Photoshop, there are several adjustments that may be made, and
there is no one right method to do it. Adobe merely offers a selection of
techniques to test. Some techniques might be effective in a specific
circumstance, while other techniques might be effective with different kinds
of photos.
Check out the tutorial image's before and after photos:

The before picture on the left, as you can see, was quite dull and flat. To
increase contrast and clarity, the image on the right was edited in Photoshop.
Level Adjustment
One of the more widely used techniques for photo editing is levels. It’s very
flexible, yet not too complex. You can get to levels by going to the menus
Image → Adjustments → Levels.
The histogram and a few tiny arrows known as "sliders" are both visible in
the levels dialogue box.

The histogram is a graph that displays all of the values from the image's color
spectrum. The best way to describe it is as follows: The shadows and blacks
are on the graph's left side. The whites and highlights are visible on the right
side. Consider what would happen if we stacked every pixel from the image,
going from darkest to lightest. What we would produce is this graph.
Due to the graph's relatively flat edges, it is easy to see that there aren't many
black or white tones.
We move the three slider arrows at the bottom to the desired positions to
modify this image. The darkest area of the image is designated by the black
point by the black slider arrow. The white point, or the brightest area of the
image that is white, is defined by the white slider. The so-called mid-tones
are adjusted using the middle slider.
Once they are aligned with the margin of the histogram, drag the outside
sliders inward.

You'll notice right once how dramatically the contrast increases. That's
because neither the white nor the black point in this photograph were really
distinct. The sliders used to define this image's deepest tone have been
modified to make them darker—blacker. along with the white tones,
respectively.
The image's midtones can then be set by moving the middle slider. This
modifies the image's overall brightness. Be careful; too much light will
muddy the shadows and too much darkness will obscure faces.
Levels are used to adjust colours
Utilizing levels, you can also change an image's colours. To choose one of
the three primary colours, just click on the Channel option at the top.
Even though it might only appear like you have three options, you actually
have six. With each option, you can change the amount of that specific hue in
the image (sliding either the white point, black point, or mid-tones). A certain
colour’s relative secondary colour will start to show up in the image if you
subtract that colour.
Consider adding some colour to your image as an example. Yellow isn't an
option, but you can get it by taking the place of blue. Slide the black slider
inward while the channel is set to blue.

Other, possibly more precise methods can be used by using the Color Balance
dialogue. But that is outside the purview of this instruction.
Burning and Dodging
While there are many ways to change a photograph's complete composition,
you frequently just need to change a small section of it. There can be a too-
dark or too-light area in the image.
We'll use a few basic editing tools at that point to change certain areas of the
image.
Burning and Dodging
Dodging and burning actually refer to "lightening" and "darkening,"
respectively, different areas of the image, and are a throwback to the time
when people used to operate in darkrooms.
These tools are available via the toolbar. One resembles a black lollypop,
while the other appears to be a hand making a circle.

With a few tweaks, we can help improve the overall impression and make the
image "pop." This particular photo example probably doesn't need a lot of
dodging or burning.
When you choose the dodge or burn tools, the top option bar will present you
with a new set of controls to modify the tool's application.
One method for using the dodge or burn tool is to change the settings so that
you only make minor changes to the image. To alter the amount of dodging
or burning that takes place with each pass, change the exposure setting. The
affected tonal range will be specified by the range. In general, you want to
make the shadows darker and the highlights lighter. This will make sure that
as you edit the shot, the contrast remains constant. Use the midtones setting if
you want to lighten shadows or darken highlights. Your chosen tool's size
will be determined by the brush size.

The master diameter corresponds to the "brush" size in Photoshop. The

brush's edge softness is referred to as its hardness. In general, you want a low
hardness setting for a tool like dodging or burning to provide the softest
brush. Increasing the brush hardness will make it easier to be precise but will
also increase the likelihood that the touch-up will be obvious.
To cover all the details when dodging or burning, it typically takes several
passes and several brush size changes.
As you can see in this example image, the shadow on the lads pulls up detail
after dodging.
The practice of vignetting is another useful application of the burn tool. In
order to help define the photo's edges and direct the viewer's gaze toward the
centre of the image, this technique involves slightly darkening the corners
and edges of the image.

Vignetting is a frequent practice among photojournalists, but if used

excessively, it can cause controversy. While there are different ethical
standards, the general rule is whether one is altering the image to the point
where it is misleading to the viewer. Be aware that because of how simple it
is to manipulate digital photos today, they are often held to a higher standard.
Sharpen
A Photoshop technique called sharpening may really "pop" a picture (a
common term photographers use to mean making a good photo better.)
It functions by boosting the contrast of edges present in the image, giving the
impression that it is clearer or sharper.
However, it should be noted that applying the sharpening filter will not
transform an image that is blurry or out of focus into one that is sharp or in
focus. Photoshop can't fix blurry photos, despite its reputation for making
them look better.
Sharpening can be found in the filters menu because it is what Photoshop
refers to as a "filter."
A close-up preview of the image on the left with the filter effect applied is
provided by the Smart Sharpen filter. By checking the "Preview" box or by
clicking and dragging on the preview, you may quickly compare this to the
original.
The quantity defines how much sharpening should be applied to the image. In
order to sharpen a photo, remember to seek for edges and boost the contrast.
A photograph can easily be "over sharpened," creating a strange halo
appearance around the edges. The radius setting determines how many pixels
the sharpening filter should travel from the edge. You will typically need to
use more radius the blurrier the image is. In-focus images will require a
smaller radius.
The type of blur you want to remove is specified by Remove. Gaussian
describes a general softness, lens blur describes an out-of-focus blur, and
motion blur describes images where a subject moved too quickly and some of
the image became blurry. You can define the motion blur's angle by selecting
motion blur.
There is no "proper" combination of values to issue that will work with every
photograph, as there are with the majority of Photoshop's features. Each
image is different and will need a different set of settings. You can
experiment with various parameters in the preview to get the best possible
production.
Export and Save
In Photoshop, there are two different ways to save a picture, and each serves
a different function. Use the Export As... command or the standard Save As...
dialogue box to save your photos in preparation for uploading to the Web.
1) Save as: Use this technique if you want to archive your shot or if you want
to edit it later. We advise saving the photograph as a Photoshop or.PSD file,
which will also save additional information about your photo that is unique to
Photoshop.
2) Export As: Select this option when you're prepared to export your photo
for online publication. Although you can save a photo using the standard
"save as..." option and still publish it to the Web, the export as feature
specifically gets your photo ready for the Web and has extra features that let
you customize your file settings.

Save As…

Only save a photo using the Save As dialogue if you intend to archive it or
know you'll return to it later to edit it further. In this manner, you can save
your photo as an uncompressed Photoshop file (.PSD) and ensure that there
will be no quality loss when you repeatedly save it.
Export As...
You can save a photo specifically for the web with the new Export As tool in
Photoshop.
Though the two have somewhat different functions, Export As will
eventually replace Save for Web for people who are familiar with earlier
versions of Photoshop. Save for Web is probably going away in Photoshop,
but if you still want to use it, you can find it in the current version under File
Export Save for Web (old).
You can examine your photo as you make adjustments to the file settings by
using Export As (located under the File menu, Export).

From the dropdown menu for "Export As," you can choose from a
number of file formats:
Graphics with solid colours should use the GIF (Graphics Interchange
Format) option. Consider a cartoon character that is composed of lines and
fills. For visuals that feature colour gradations, use the "dither" options. The
gradients will be sharper and the image size will be larger as the dither level
is increased. Generally speaking, GIF is not an appropriate format for
preserving photos because it will not accurately reflect the various levels of
colour.
The preferred format for storing photographic photos is JPEG (Joint
Photographic Experts Group). JPEG is one of the most popular photo formats
on the Web and is excellent at compressing files without sacrificing quality.
There are three quality options available in Photoshop, and you may fine-tune
the quality parameters for each preset.
PNG (Portable Network Graphics) was created to enhance and even take the
place of GIF. Although it can be used for photographs, the PNG format is
excellent for graphics. When utilized for photographs, the file size will
typically be much bigger. The most distinctive feature of PNGS is their
propensity to reveal transparency, or invisible regions in a picture. This
permits the use of images with unusual shapes, such as circles.
SVG (Scalable Vector Graphics): SVG is a file format used for graphics on
the web that can be scaled to various sizes without losing resolution,
including animations and illustrations. It is not advised to store photographs
in SVG as it is more frequently used for graphics than for photos.
Compression
The goal of compression is to reduce the photo's file size while maintaining a
particular level of quality so that it loads quickly on the user's computer.
Although there are no hard-and-fast guidelines about the size of a photo, in
general, the smaller the better.
If one had to categorize images based on their file sizes, one could do so
as follows:
10k to 20k for brief graphics and photographs
30k to 70k for medium-sized photos and graphics
Large photos: 100k to 300k (often one per page).
Resizing
The Export As feature's ability to display your image at the size it will appear
on a website is one of its nicer features. You will need to resize a huge image
if you find one. To resize photos, use one of two techniques. The above-
described method can be used in the Photoshop program's main window,
while the other method can be used in the Export As dialogue box.

Simply adjust the Width or Height values in the Image Size section on the
right side of the Export As dialogue box to modify the image size. The
corresponding value will change if the proportions are restricted. You should
be able to watch the size of the preview image change as you make
adjustments. Click Export All to save your file and apply the modifications.
In general, you should never extend an image; doing so will result in
significant quality loss.
Exporting vs. Saving
However, it should be remembered that using the Export As feature to save a
photo simply saves a copy of the original. As a result, you will still need to
save your original photo for archiving or utilize the standard Save As... menu
option if you plan to open it again later. Having a clear categorization system
can help you keep your photos straight!
 CHAPTER ONE
FEATURES OF ADOBE PHOTOSHOP 2023
Adobe Photoshop – Layers

So, how did Photoshop supplant traditional paints and suddenly dominate the
market? The layers palette strengthened the benefit of a software-based
design. It gives the artist more freedom to have complete control over
anything that is being worked on in the document.
You can individually design or draw different document components in
layers with the Layers palette, then stack them according to the order of
display. This benefit allows for easy control of every object with a mouse
click. Even while mistakes do occur, their consequences are only felt in that
specific area of the canvas, thus you can choose to focus only on that area
while leaving the rest of the canvas alone.
This advantage is missing from the conventional painting technique. When an
artist's focus is broken and a painting stroke goes incorrect, they are not
permitted to take a break at any point during the drawing or painting! They
will inevitably alter the entire scene.
In addition to the advantages listed above, a layers palette has evolved into a
key component of Photoshop over the years. It has many additional features
that enhance the Layer palette, including layer masks, blending modes,
opacity, fill, lock, and group. The control of Photoshop today is unimaginable
without the Layers palette.
Adobe Photoshop – Selection Tools

Designers all around the world are glued to Photoshop's selection tool set
because it is so convenient to use. There are numerous open-source and
competitive programs, though, that are made to compete fiercely with
Photoshop. Because of how simple Adobe's products are, users are
nevertheless forced to use it.
Photographers, graphic designers, and all other professionals involved in
multimedia have it easier thanks to selection tools. Over time, selection
accuracy has increased, and the level of detail we can now collect is amazing.
Marquee selection instruments
Using pixel color samples, Magic Wand selection limits the color gamut
through tolerance
According to their workflows, the collection of Lasso tools that manually
employ pixel color and hands-free selection are meant to satisfy the needs of
diverse sectors.
Photoshop has recently been effective in developing selection tools that make
it simple to pick out hair or fuzzy animals. Communities of designers
anticipate that Photoshop will eventually enhance its selection tools so that
designers can keep up with the demanding speed.
Adobe Photoshop – Pen tool

When multimedia software was released without a pen tool, we have the
memory that it was nothing more than a collection of color palettes. There
isn't much to do, and the creative potential is underwhelming.
Without the Pen tool, Photoshop would not exist as we know it today.
Although the pen tool is designed to be used for sketching pathways and
anchor points, the creative possibilities are virtually endless. The tool's
flexibility allows the designer to create any shape or edit one that already
exists as well as he could with just his hands alone. The three different sorts
of anchor points that you may use to precisely create and alter pathways
increase the level of control you have by putting the anchor points in the
appropriate locations.

Adobe Photoshop – Shapes

Working on an object without sacrificing its original quality in raster-based
graphic design software like Photoshop is a benefit for designers. Shape layer
in Photoshop handles the work for us.
The shape layer function in Photoshop may have a constrained appearance,
but its powers go beyond our initial expectations. Traditional marquee
selection tools only allow for raster processing, which frequently produces
results with sharp, pixilated edges that are seldom appealing. However, the
form layers can function as a separate object with its own attribute within the
document to maintain the highest quality.
The original quality of a shape layer can be easily maintained through editing
with the pen tool or a direct selection tool. The colors used in the path can be
changed at any time, and gradients and many other effects can be contained
within shape layers.

Adobe Photoshop – Vector Mask

The layer masking tool was another element that was prominent at the time.
Even though many additional tools were introduced after the layer mask, the
tool maintained its significance.
By utilizing the grayscale color scheme, layer masks can create a mask for a
part of an item (Shades of Gray). After the masking process is complete, the
portion of the object covered by the layer mask vanishes.
A layer mask may appear to novices as a lifeless, inanimate object. But after
they understand the concept and begin to use the black and white colors in
the thumbnail for the masking layer, they appreciate how simple it is.
Controlling layer masks can be done in a variety of ways:
Ø To conceal the desired part of the item, the user can simply fill the
colors in.
Ø To exercise manual control, you can use brush tools to draw the
masking color.
Ø For a seamless transition effect, you can alternatively use a single-
color gradient mask.
Ø In order to customize the filled color, users can also experiment with
the erase tool.
Ø Layer masks now have additional power thanks to controls for
feathering, contrast, and density in Photoshop's most recent releases.

Adobe Photoshop – Slice Tool

When the world began to steadily move toward web technology in the latter
part of the 20th century, Photoshop rapidly recognized the need to develop a
tool that would let web designers, businesses, and consumers to access a
website easily and swiftly.
There were no broad bands or Wi-Fi connections at the time of telephone
dial-ups, and it took 10 minutes to load a homepage. In order to reduce the
loading time of a website more effectively, a slice tool was developed to cut
the photos into slices. One of the significant turning points in the evolution of
web technology, the tool greatly aided designers.
Later, the slices were uploaded into the webpages using Adobe Dreamweaver
or HTML. Although HTML and high-end broadband connections are
available, CSS currently dominates the web business, and the Slice tool
continues to be significant in the online world.
Adobe Photoshop – Retouching Tools

Photoshop is a program designed to edit raster images, as its name suggests,

and is typically used to make basic corrections to images. Photoshop has
expanded across every business as the technical world experiences a
transformation, including print, 3D, the web, and many more. But Photoshop
is still used as the name.
The graphic design and photography industries have come to value the photo
editing tools that have been developed over time.
There are many different tools used in retouching, including the Stamp tool,
Pattern Stamp tool, Spot Healing tool, Healing tool, Patch tool, Redeye tool,
and many more. Though the numbers are larger, every instrument has its
importance. Retouching tools did not suddenly appear on the scene.
Adobe was working hard to pinpoint the issues facing photographers and
occasionally come up with solutions.
The tools have proven to be of great assistance in solving photographers'
ongoing issues. For graphic designers and photographers, tools like Redeye,
patch, and healing tools were so helpful that they reduced manual work by
almost 100%. The lengthy, meticulous manual labor was easily controlled
with a click and drag.
Adobe Photoshop – Photoshop 3D

Photoshop's capacity to quickly adapt to emerging technology has helped it

become the world's most popular multimedia and graphic creation tool. This
has been repeatedly demonstrated by Adobe during the past twenty years.
When Adobe saw that the world was shifting toward online technology, they
moved quickly to develop the solutions that the web industry sorely required.
Adobe also picked the appropriate time to capitalize on the recent boom in
the 3D industry.
The process of developing and sketching textures was a laborious one that
designers had to go through at every stage until Photoshop's 3D functionality
was introduced. With Photoshop 3D, users may easily import three-
dimensional objects from a cloud-based program into Photoshop and build
textures right on the Photoshop canvas. Even better, you may use Photoshop
to play a sequence of photos corresponding to a 3D object and select the pose
and expression from the animation.
In some more current versions, it is also feasible to build three-dimensional
things in Photoshop and texture them on the same design.
Adobe Photoshop – Smart Objects

Even if Photoshop is revolutionizing the multimedia industry, everyone will

always face some restrictions. One of the main issues that Photoshop has
been working to address for a very long time is the pixelation of raster files.
Because of its use of vector graphics, Adobe Illustrator is well known for its
indestructible properties. However, without extremely detailed images such
in Photoshop, the vector graphics are limited. But as they are downsized,
photos are occasionally losing quality. Users must be extremely careful when
choosing which raster pictures and photographs to use in their publications.
Any time an image is resized from a smaller size to a larger size, the quality
is lost.
Raster files were saved by smart objects, which offers more than just data
preservation.
When an object is resized to any size, they intelligently remember the data
from the image file and restore it to its original form. The use of a smart
object allows designers to save time and effort by remembering the changes
made to the object and applying the same changes to the same object if used
elsewhere.
Adobe Photoshop – Adobe Creative Cloud

Users now have access to the complete Adobe software empire thanks to
Adobe's freshly launched creative cloud advantage. Even though Photoshop
is the topic of this section, I can only speak to its benefits when used with the
creative cloud.
Adobe occasionally works on software updates, additions, and fixes.
Previously, customers had to wait approximately two years between each
check for updates in the most recent version. However, if you are using
Photoshop CC, you can download the updates right away and don't have to
wait two years for Adobe to release them.
The cloud is yet another well-liked perk. If you're out and about without your
laptop and you suddenly need to access the image from your friend's laptop!
Before the development of cloud computing, this was an impossibility. Now
that you have saved your file in the Adobe cloud, it is possible. You can
access your files without carrying them because they are still secure.
HOW TO OPEN PHOTO
Opening photos might seem like a simple task. However, when working with
a program as complex as Photoshop, even a seemingly simple task like
opening an image might be trickier than you might think. Additionally,
Adobe has added a new Home Screen to the most recent versions of
Photoshop, giving us even more options for opening images. There is
therefore always something new to learn, even if you have used Photoshop
for years.
Photoshop has two modes of operation
In reality, there are two alternative approaches to begin using Photoshop. One
is to start with a fresh, empty Photoshop document and add images, graphics,
and other resources to it. The other option is to open a previously saved
image. The majority of the time, particularly if you're a photographer, you'll
want to begin by opening an image, therefore this is what we'll be learning
how to accomplish. We'll also examine the critical distinction between
viewing a photo that was taken in the raw format and viewing a regular JPEG
file.
How to launch Photoshop's Home Screen and launch an image
Let's start by taking a look at the Home Screen, a recent Photoshop
innovation that may be used to open photos. The Home Screen is displayed
when Photoshop CC is launched without first opening an image or when we
close a document with no other documents open.

Open a recently created file

The Home Screen will display any previously edited pictures or documents as
thumbnails.
Simply click on a recent file's thumbnail to reopen Photoshop and carry
on working with it:
Ø Photoshop CC's Home Screen, which displays recent file thumbnails.
Ø Recent files can be quickly viewed and opened again from the Home
Screen.
Ø Bringing up a fresh picture from the Home Screen
However, you won't see any thumbnails if this is your first-time starting
Photoshop or if you've deleted the history of recent files. In its place, the
Home Screen will show up in its original form with a number of boxes that
can be clicked to learn more about Photoshop.
Since the content on the Home Screen is dynamic and occasionally changes,
yours may not exactly like what we're seeing here.

The Home Screen with no thumbnails of recently accessed files.

v Click the Open button in the column to the left of the image to
launch it from the Home Screen
 v On the Home Screen, selecting the Open button.
This launches either the Finder on a Mac (which is what I'm using here) or
the File Explorer on a Windows computer. To open an image, double-click
on it after navigating to the folder where your images are stored. For now, I'll
open a JPEG image, but later on we'll also learn how to handle raw files:

v Double-clicking an image to choose it.

v When Photoshop opens, the picture is ready for editing.

 v Photoshop opens with the first picture.
Putting a picture to bed
Select Close: from the File option in the Menu Bar at the top of the screen to
close the image.

v Selecting File > Close.

Reopening the Home Screen picture
Photoshop brings me back to the Home Screen because there were no other
photos open. I can now see a thumbnail of the formerly open image. I only
need to click on its thumbnail to reopen it:
 v Selecting the Home Screen thumbnail.
v The same picture then appears again.

v The first image reopens.

How to access a different picture from your home screen
What happens if you wish to open a second image after you've already
opened the first one, like I've done here? The Home button is located in the
upper left corner of Photoshop's interface, and as we've already seen, it
allows us to return to the Home Screen at any time.
 v Return to the Home Screen by clicking the Home button.
v Returning to the Home Screen, click the Open button once more as
follows:

opening a different image by selecting the Open button.

Double-click on your second image after finding it in your images folder:
 v Selecting a second image.
How to navigate between various open images
The tabs located at the top of the documents can be used to switch between
open images:

v Use the tabs to switch between images.

What to do if the Home button in Photoshop is gone
If you're using Photoshop CC or later and the Home button in the upper left
corner is gone, make sure the Home Screen hasn't been turned off in
Photoshop's Preferences.
On a Windows computer, select Edit from the menu. Navigate to the
Photoshop CC menu on a Mac. Select General after selecting Preferences:

Selecting Edit (Windows) or Photoshop CC (Mac) > Preferences > General

Make sure the option labeled "Disable the Home Screen" is not selected in
the Preferences dialog box by looking for it there. Disable it if it is. To close
the dialog window, click OK after that. Keep in mind that in order for the
change to take effect, Photoshop must be closed and then restarted:
Make sure "Disable the Home Screen" is not checked.
How to use Photoshop's File menu to open photos
While I frequently use the Home Screen, which is a fantastic new feature,
choosing Open from the File option in the Menu Bar is still the more
common approach to open a picture in Photoshop. Alternatively, you can use
the Ctrl+O (Windows) / Command+O keyboard shortcut (Mac). "O" for
"Open" is that:

v Selecting File > Open.

Once more, this launches the Finder on a Mac or the File Explorer on a
Windows computer. I'll choose a third picture by double-clicking on it:

Choosing a third picture to display.

Likewise, the third image opens in Photoshop just like the first two:
And the tabs across the top of the papers show that I now have three images
open. While we can have as many images open in Photoshop as we need, we
can only work on one image at a time.
Simply click on the tabs to change between images:

Using the tabs to navigate between open photos.

How to save a photo in Photoshop
By clicking the tab for the image you want to close, you can do it without
closing any other photos you've opened. Following that, select Close from the
File menu up top:

Selecting File > Close.

v Alternately, you can close the tab more quickly by clicking the tiny
"x" icon there:

To close just one image without shutting them all, click the "x" button.
Additionally, instead of dismissing individual tabs, select Close All from the
File menu to close all open photos at once. By doing this, you can close the
images and come back to Photoshop's main screen:

By selecting File > Close All.

How to use Photoshop to open raw files
I've just opened JPEG files for the photographs I've opened in Photoshop thus
far. They all had the ".jpg" file extension, which lets us know they were
JPEG files. What about raw files, though? Specifically, pictures that were
shot in your camera's raw file format?
Click the Open button to open a raw file from the Home Screen:

Opening a raw file by selecting the Open button.

Choose the raw file you wish to open after that. Every camera manufacturer
has a unique raw format with a unique three-letter extension. As an
illustration, Canon raw files commonly end in ".cr2," Nikon uses ".nef," and
Fuji uses ".raf."
The ".dng" extension on my raw file denotes a digital negative, which is what
it is in my situation. This is the raw format that Adobe uses exclusively:

Choosing a raw file for Photoshop to open.

The Camera Raw plug-in for Photoshop
Raw files first open in a Photoshop plugin called Camera Raw before
entering Photoshop like JPEG files do. Because it is used to handle raw
images (adjusting exposure and color, adding some preliminary sharpening,
and much more) before transferring them to Photoshop, Camera Raw is
frequently referred to as a digital darkroom
Since Adobe Lightroom and Camera Raw both use the same picture
processing engine and have similar editing features, you'll feel completely at
home in either program:
Closing Camera Raw and without launching Photoshop to view the
picture
In fact, Camera Raw provides so many image alterations that you may be
able to finish all of your work there instead of sending the image to
Photoshop in some circumstances. Since using Camera Raw to edit photos
goes much beyond the scope of this course, I'll go into further depth in
subsequent lectures.
For the time being, click the Done button if you're satisfied with the image
and only want to shut down Camera Raw without switching to Photoshop.
When you save your Camera Raw preferences, they are also saved with the
raw file and will be available again when you access it:
To accept and shut down Camera Raw, click Done.
The best way to transfer an image from Camera Raw to
Photoshop
However, you can close Camera Raw and transfer the image to Photoshop for
additional processing by selecting Open Image:

To open the image in Photoshop, click Open Image.

The picture appears in Photoshop with all of the adjustments you made in
Camera Raw earlier:
Camera Raw sends the image to Photoshop.
v Close the picture
v To close the image when you're done, go up to the File menu and
choose Close.

Selecting File > Close.

And doing so takes us back to Photoshop's Home Screen, where all of our
recently accessed files are displayed as thumbnails and are available for
reopening when necessary:
HOW TO SAVE WORKS
A Photoshop file being saved
You should save a copy of your Photoshop file as a Photoshop Document
(.PSD). The advantage of saving a PSD is that it will save all of your layers,
even hidden ones, so you can go back and edit them later. A PSD file is also
referred to as a native file. This permits for more flexibility in editing your
images for a future time. Think of the PSD file as something for your archival
purposes.
Publish a file you've saved.
Since not everyone has access to Photoshop, not everyone will be able to
open your PSD files, as is common knowledge. Additionally, most photo-
hosting companies like FlickR or Imgur do not allow PSD file uploads. PSD
files are ideal for future picture processing but are not recommended for
sharing. Image files like.JPEG,.GIF, and.TIFF come into play in this
situation. These files are "flat" and frequently lack layer information that can
be modified afterwards, which makes them different from PSD files.
Photoshop can save your photographs to a wide range of the several image
file types that are available. For more details on the various types of picture
files, please refer to the Image Files tab in the All About Images manual.
Saving Pictures (for printing)
The steps you would take to save your file for printing are as follows:
1. Select "File" from the top menu of your Photoshop window, then "Save
As," to save your image for printing purposes.
2. You should then see a dialog box appear with various alternative options
for saving your file. If you're using Photoshop on a Mac, the "Save As"
dialog box may not be configured to display you all of your options plainly.
To expand your dialog box if it resembles the one below, click the tiny,
downward-facing arrow icon (image left). After that, you ought to see an
increased number of choices (image right).
3. Next, select your preferred file format in the "Format" box.

Since several file types have different exporting capabilities, you should
choose the one that works best for your particular project. Make sure to ask
your printer about the preferred file types if you're working with a publisher
or preparing photos for publication. To explore the "File Formats" part of the
"All About Images" LibGuide and learn more about the distinctions between
file types to help you choose the best one for your project, click here.
4. You're getting close! To finish this process, click "Save" at the bottom.
Photoshop will urge you to adjust a few settings unique to the file format you
selected before you finally export your image.
Example:

Usually, this is just a menu of options that you may use to fine-tune how your
final image will be processed. You may often always click "Ok" to accept
Photoshop's default exporting capabilities unless you need to make a very
specific adjustment to how your image is being saved.
5. You're finished! Check the file where ever you stored it to make sure
everything went as planned.
Save As (for Web)
Saving images for the web:
You might want to share a particularly high-quality photograph that you've
been working on that was initially intended for print. Or perhaps you've
created an animated.gif file by reducing a video file to 25–50 frames and
would like to publish it online. Using the "Save As for Web" option in each
of these situations provides excellent choices that are tailored to online
contexts.
To avoid having an excessively large file size when using static images (such
as JPEG files), you might wish to compress differently. This is crucial when
submitting photos to websites that have file size restrictions or when trying to
speed up webpage loading.
Select "File —> Save for Web" to get started.

Following that, a dialog box ought to show up:

The options in this dialog box may vary depending on the selected file type.
With mine set to JPEG, I have access to a wealth of information, including
the file type (JPEG), the quality (shown by the slider), the preview options
(with "Monitor Color" currently chosen), the "Convert to sRGB" colorspace
option, the width and height options, and the file size (in the bottom corner of
each image). Even better, you may compare the original image and its
compressed form side by side on a "2-Up" screen:

The width and height of the image, as well as the "quality" options, are two
specific items you might wish to adjust. These will obviously change the size
of your image:
If you're creating a GIF file, you'll have different saving options (such
limiting the number of colors utilized in the animation or reducing
"dithering" to save file size):

Play around with these sliders and tuners until you have an image you're
happy with because all of the changes you make are best evaluated visually.
Also keep in mind that you can always check the screen's bottom corner to
determine the size of your file before exporting.
Choose "Save" when you're satisfied with your modifications. The best
aspect of this procedure is that it doesn't depend on the original image you're
using. Therefore, any adjustments you make on this screen have no impact on
the file that is currently open in your Photoshop file, which is quite handy!
Your layers, modifications, and adjustments are kept and unaltered for any
additional processing you might choose to perform in the future. You are now
prepared to upload your file to the internet.
Want to see this procedure in action right now? Visit Adobe TV to see a
further demonstration of this functionality in this video.
WHAT ADOBE CAMERA RAW
The RAW image processing engine used by Adobe is called Photoshop
Camera Raw. It enables you to turn your camera's RAW image files into
commonly used, shareable, and functional JPGs.
It's significant that the adjustments be non-destructive. That indicates that the
changes are simple to undo and that your original files are unaffected.
Adobe Camera Raw can be thought of as an image processor that transforms
a camera's raw data into a picture. The modified file can then be edited in
Photoshop.
We can do a lot of things using Camera Raw, like cropping, sharpening,
adjusting contrast, color, and tone range, and setting white balance.
The world is not seen as a JPG by a digital camera when you snap a picture.
Rather, the sensor "sees" a lot more information about the colors and light
levels in the scene than it is able to save in a single compressed image file.
However, if your smartphone or camera is configured to take JPGs, when you
press the shutter button, it converts all that data into a single image file that
you can share to friends or post on Instagram and discards the rest. The image
is still created using all the raw data, you simply don't have access to it
anymore.
But what if you want access to all that photo data so you can use it to alter
your photos? RAW images come into play in this situation. When you shoot
RAW, your camera will store a data file with all the image information rather
than producing acceptable but compressed JPGs. Although you won't be able
to post it directly to social media, you'll have far more editing freedom.
The majority of camera makers have their own unique RAW format. Canon's
is CRW and Nikon's is NEF, for instance. But the Digital Negative (DNG)
format from Adobe is gradually starting to be accepted as the industry
standard.
The major drawback of RAW files is that you can't do anything with them
until you convert them into more widely used image formats (most
commonly JPGs, occasionally TIFFs). Your smartphone or camera handles
all the processing when you take a JPG picture. Although you have to do it
yourself when shooting RAW, Camera Raw can help.

A digital darkroom called Camera Raw

The processing engine utilized by Adobe's programs to edit, convert, or
develop RAW files is called Adobe Camera Raw. Because it performs the
same function as a traditional darkroom in film photography—converting
your unusable negatives into useable photographs—it is frequently referred to
as a digital darkroom. It may be accessible through Bridge, is available as a
plug-in for Photoshop and After Effects, and powers Adobe Photoshop
Lightroom.

With JPGs, it's virtually impossible to do these types of modifications, at

least not in a way that looks nice.
You have control over the process while utilizing Camera Raw, as opposed
to, instance, letting your smartphone handle things. All of that extra
information can be used to perform non-destructive adjustments. a little too
many shadows? You have the visual data necessary to make them more vivid.
Beginning to blow highlights? That can also be fixed. Additionally, you have
control over the color in addition to the lights and darks. You may totally
reset the white balance, or how blue or yellow the entire image appears, using
Camera Raw. It might be challenging to get the white balance settings just
right when using JPGs and is not always a simple procedure.
This level of editing control is crucial if you're serious about taking excellent
images.
Camera Raw Photo Opening Instructions
Photoshop has a plug-in called Camera Raw. Photoshop will launch itself
when you open a RAW image, independent of the manufacturer's format.
To access Camera Raw, you must first open a RAW file in Photoshop using
your preferred method. If Photoshop is already open, the easiest method is to
select File > Open, navigate to the RAW file you want to edit, and then click
"Open."

All of the editing options in the Develop module in Lightroom CC or

Lightroom Classic are driven by Camera Raw. To get started, simply open
your image in one of those programs. I'm going to concentrate on the
Photoshop plug-in version for the sake of this essay.
Note that you can utilize Camera Raw's editing tools on your regular
photographs because it is also available as a Photoshop filter. Although it
won't have the same potency because there isn't as much data to work with,
you can perform this in Photoshop by selecting Filter > Camera Raw Filter.
How to Use Camera Raw for Image Editing
A complete non-destructive image editing tool is Camera Raw. Sliders or
drop-down menus are used for the majority of its controls. For instance, you
can change the exposure of your photograph by dragging the Exposure slider
to the left and right. The same holds true for other, more particular qualities
like clarity and texture.
Nine components make up the editing controls:
Basic: All the equipment required to change the color, contrast, and
brightness of your image.
v Histogram and curve tool similar to Photoshop's curve adjustment
layer.
v Tools for noise reduction and sharpening.
Color Mixer: Sliders for adjusting how colors are shown in color photos or
how they are changed into different tones of gray and black in monochrome
images.
Color grading: With the help of these tools, you can artistically change the
color scheme of your image.
Optics: Correct optical distortion and aberration automatically (using the
database of lenses provided by Adobe) or manually (using appropriate tools).
v Correct geometry for issues with perspective and camera angle.
Effects: Vignette or add image grain.
Adjusting Camera Raw's interpretation of the data in the RAW file through
calibration.

Additionally, there are tools on the right sidebar that let you:
v Crop the picture.
v Eliminate flaws and tiny stains.
v Use a brush, graded filter, or radial filter to make additional
adjustments to particular sections of your image.
As you can see, Camera Raw allows you a great deal of flexibility over the
precise interpretation of the data in your RAW file. Even though it's a feature
of Photoshop, you hardly ever need to make edits using standard Photoshop
tools if you process your data in Camera Raw.

How to Save Camera Raw Photos

A non-destructive image editor is Camera Raw. Nothing is ever modified
permanently from the original RAW file. Instead, all of the changes are saved
to a sidecar file (or embedded if it's a DNG).
It's not always clear how to save images taken with Camera Raw. These are
your top three choices.
v After making your modifications, click "Done" in the bottom-right
corner to save the original RAW file.
v This will add a sidecar file to the folder containing the RAW file.
v The adjustments will be made automatically the next time you open
the RAW picture.
v Click "Open" to correctly open your image in Photoshop and save
your adjustments.
v The image can then be edited further in Photoshop and exported as a
JPG.
v Click the save icon in the top-right corner of your photo to save it
instantly as a JPG.
Choose "Save as JPEG" from the "Preset" drop-down menu in the Save
Options window. Next, select "Save."

Your image will now be available in a format that you can send to a friend,
display on your website, or share on social media.
 CHAPTER TWO
PIXEL ART
The requirement to express visuals on the constrained storage capacity of 8-
or 16-bit computers and gaming consoles gave rise to the digital art genre
known as "pixel art."
The term "spriting," which derives from the word "sprite," is occasionally
used to describe the process of generating pixel art. This phrase refers to a
two-dimensional bitmap that is included into a larger scene in computer
graphics (usually a video game).

The Crucial Pixel Art Tools

Contrary to popular opinion, high-end or powerful software doesn't always
equal high-quality artwork! Program selection is purely a question of taste.
You can even use something as simple as Microsoft Paint if you use
Windows. Here is a longer list of some of the resources you can use to make
pixel art.

The following tools are all you really need to create pixel art, so make
sure your program of choice has them:
Your standard drawing instrument, the pencil, places one pixel by
default.
Pixels that you've drawn are erased or removed using the eraser.
Eyedropper: copies the color from the chosen pixel so you can reuse it.
Bucket: uses a single, solid hue to cover an empty space.
The selection, line, recolor, and rotation tools are additional helpful features.
They aren't strictly necessary because you can get the identical results by
employing the aforementioned tools.
Brushes, blurring, gradients, and other automatic tools should be avoided if
you want complete control over every pixel on the canvas.
Anything that controls your cursor in terms of hardware is acceptable. For
accuracy and fine details, a mouse or trackpad works well. While a graphics
tablet may be your preferred option for superior control over lengthy strokes.
For sprite size, there is no right or wrong answer. However, the most typical
multiples of eight are powers of two (88, 1616, 3232, etc.), as older
computers could not show other multiples of eight effectively.
Personally, we advise starting modest so that you may rapidly master the
fundamentals. Since their electronics could only support so many colors and
pixels, artists created pixel art to make the most of each one.
When you have to operate under constraints, you are compelled to be
innovative. Get proficient at utilizing a small sprite's available area. Once
that's done, you can move up to larger sizes to cram even more detail in.
Additionally, you must consider canvas size if you intend to include a
character in a scene.
Thinking about the ratio between your sprite and the rest of the screen is an
excellent way to approach this. What size do you want your character to be in
relation to the environment they inhabit?
Game makers should be aware that the majority of modern monitors have a
16:9 aspect ratio. In other words, there are nine pixels in height for every 16
pixels in width.
Regardless of the resolution you ultimately choose, you would normally start
with a much lower canvas size and scale up to the final size after you were
finished.

At the same time, you should scale your pixel graphics by whole numbers to
avoid having some odd effects. Before you begin making pixel art, it's crucial
to make sure your math is correct!
Imagine you wanted to obtain the 1080p standard resolution. You may start
with a 384 x 216 canvas and then scale it up by 500%.
Scaling ought to be the final action you take. Not after scaling up should you
resume drawing with your one-pixel pencil tool. You'll then have various
pixel ratios, which never looks nice.
The Spriting Process

Here is a step-by-step guide on how you might want to start your project to
offer you a place to start. You are totally free to do as instructed exactly, omit
some procedures, or add your own.
1. Create a rough sketch first.
As you would with a pen and paper, begin drawing with your sprite by
moving the Pencil tool around. It doesn't have to be flawless.
We'll clean up any messes you make later. At this early stage, our only goal is
to bring your concept and its composition onto the canvas.
2. Line Art Cleaning
Now is the time to clean up and tidy up a bit. To remove errant pixels, we're
going to chisel away at your rough lines.
"Jaggies" are a single pixel or a collection of pixels that disrupt the
smoothness of a line. What we're specifically attempting to avoid are jangies.
Frequently, the issue is simply that a line segment is too long or too short,
resulting in an unnatural leap. For a transition on a curve that looks smooth,
utilize pixels that are the same length throughout. Don't put bigger pixels in
front of a row of smaller ones.
Even while it's impossible to completely eradicate jaggies (unless your
artwork just consists of simple shapes), you should endeavor to limit their
presence.
3. Present Colors
It's time to use the Bucket tool to add color to your sprite's line art.
Typically, you want to stick to a limited color scheme. In the past, the
number of colors on the palette was frequently determined by the size of the
sprite. The artists had 16 colors to work with if a sprite was 1616. We are
thankfully no longer constrained by this regulation because to advancements
in technology.
The greatest color schemes have a variety of complementary hues, various
saturation levels, and a balance of light and dark shades. Creating your own
palette can be challenging if you don't already have a solid understanding of
color theory.
Lospec is a fantastic online library full of pre-made color palettes if you want
someone else to do the thinking for you.

4. Include information, highlights, and shadows

The highlight of the whole procedure is this! Your artwork really starts to pop
off the page at this point. Now that we've got the fundamentals down, we can
start adding all the minor details to give your flat art the appearance of form.
Choose your light source, then begin using a darker hue to shade regions that
are furthest away from it. Place highlights where they will be directly
illuminated.

Depending on your personal preference or creative style, you can opt to color
or leave your line art in black.
5. Save Your Art
Your work needs to be saved now! After scaling to the size you want, select a
file format. If your image is static, you'll generally want to save it as a PNG.
However, if your artwork includes animation, save it as a GIF. What key is
that both formats can accommodate substantial sections of transparency and
solid color.
If you don't know what you're doing, avoid using JPEGs. It is a lossy file
format designed for digital photos and other images with gentle gradients.
HOW TO SET UP ADOBE PHOTOSHOP FOR
PIXEL ART
Getting Started
Pixel art is a quick and simple technique to make 2D graphics for games or
other creative projects, like the visuals in well-known mobile games like
Flappy Bird! Making outstanding voxel art also requires a solid
understanding of how to create pixel art in Photoshop. Although there are
various programs for making pixel art, in this article we'll be using the most
well-liked 2D picture software online. Due to its numerous capabilities that
are designed to produce amazing-looking pixel art, Photoshop is the clear
preference for creating pixel art!
Making a New File
Make sure you have the most recent Photoshop update installed via Creative
Cloud before starting to create pixel art in the application. Then, simply
launch it. A menu like the one below ought to appear. The Welcome Screen
is what it is named. Simply select Create New.

The next screen is for creating a new document. You can choose from pre-
made templates to develop photo projects here that are sized for various
screens. You will learn how to create a pixel art dog in this Photoshop
tutorial. We'll use the Custom option to accomplish this. In the Preset Details
menu, which is located on the right, type HipsterDog and 32 for both the
width and the height. When you're finished, click Create.
In essence, this generates a new file with the name HipsterDog and a canvas
size of 3232 pixels. Our pixel art will be created on this canvas. A screen
similar to the one below should appear once you click Create. Remember that
32x32 is a very small area. We are at 100% zoom, as you can see in the
bottom left corner. By definition, pixel art is creation that operates at the
pixel level. While designing, we must stick to this resolution because we can
always enlarge our pixel art images later.

We can always zoom in to see our pixel art more clearly to make designing
simpler. Press CMD + on a Mac or CTRL + on a Windows computer to do
this. We increased the zoom to 3200%. The zoom is shown in the lower left
corner.

You can increase or decrease the zoom if that is insufficient. Now that we
have a blank canvas, we must prepare our workspace so we can create some
fantastic pixel art in Photoshop.
Install Adobe Photoshop to create pixel art
You now have your canvas, and we need to set up some fundamental
Photoshop settings that will help us create our first piece of pixel art and
ensure that it displays correctly.
The Nearest Neighbor setting
When you first launch Photoshop, Bicubic Automatic for Image Interpolation
is used to create all images. When you scale a photo up or down, this is
fantastic since it helps blur the pixels so they appear "smooth" and less
pixelated. In pixel art, however, this is entirely the opposite. Every time you
create pixel art, it must be clear and sharp. To accomplish this, we must set
this to Nearest Neighbor. The images below serve as an example of how the
image will appear when it is scaled up eight times.
Image with Bicubic Automatic

Image with Nearest Neighbor

Therefore, let's modify the Image Interpolation right away. Choose the
General category under Preferences.

Click the Image Interpolation drop-down menu when the settings panel has
opened, then choose Nearest Neighbor (Preserve Hard Edges) from the list of
options.

Now that you can keep the hard edges while resizing your pixel art,
Photoshop will give your artwork a tidy, sharp appearance.
Activate the Grid
We will activate the Grid as the next significant Photoshop parameter. Pixel
art is based on a 2D invisible grid. It will be simple to see exactly where we
are placing our pixels by turning this on. Go to View > Show > Grid to
activate our grid.
On your Canvas, something resembling this ought to appear when you click
Grid. Remember that this grid is just a reference and won't appear when you
export your pixel artwork.

The grid may occasionally not appear to be the proper size. This is due to
improperly configured grid lines. Return to the Preferences panel in
Photoshop and select Guides, Grid & Slices... from the options if you need to
adjust this or want to double-check.

As soon as the menu appears, check to see that the Gridline Every: property's
values are set to 1. Additionally, confirm that Subdivisions is 1.

By doing this, you can be sure that your grid is the proper size.
Congratulations! The time has come for some pixel art!
Make a Pixel Art Drawing
It's time to decide which tool we will use to create our pixel art now that
Photoshop has been configured for pixel art. We will concentrate on 1 main
tool even though there are many more tools and shortcuts you can use to
create the pixels in your image. The pencil tool is that one.
Get the pencil tool ready
When you start creating pixel art, the pencil tool in Photoshop will quickly
become one of the most popular tools. Before we begin, we will make a few
minor adjustments to improve its performance.
Let's start by choosing the Pencil tool from the toolbox. It is located on the
right side. In real actuality, it resembles a pencil.

Once you've chosen the pencil, we'll alter certain settings. In the top left
corner of the Photoshop window, click the drop-down arrow. A number
ought to be written next to it. When you click on the canvas, the pencil will
create a line that is this many pixels wide. Since this is pixel art, we want it to
be extremely precise. Set the size to 1 to achieve this. We will now be able to
draw one pixel at a time. The Hardness is then set to 100%. Keep in mind
that pixel art should be clear and precise. This characteristic will stop anti-
aliasing from sharpening our pixels.
The moment we have all been waiting for is finally here! Simply click
anywhere on your canvas to draw a pixel. Since we put so much effort into
setting up Photoshop, it ought to be as simple as populating cubes on a grid.
The head will first be outlined in the color black.
Click the Color box at the bottom of the toolbox area to change colors. You
can adjust your color using the slider in the window that will display. When
you're done, click OK.

Simply click inside the grid you previously established in order to add a
pixel. It will populate one cell at a time using our current values. By clicking
with the Pencil tool, try to duplicate the image below.
Nicely done! Our pixel art character's shape is now complete, so we can start
adding additional detail to the head. Using the same approach as for the
outline, keep adding more details. Let's draw the nose and the ears in outline.
Copy the illustration below.

It is already beginning to take shape! We must alter the hue in order to

construct the spectacles for our dog. Enter the color below by clicking the
color box once more.
Let's start drawing the glasses now that we've adjusted the hue. Try to use the
same Pencil tool to recreate the image below.

Amazing work! The majority of our pixel art dog is now planned out. Let's
start filling in the blank spaces. Left-clicking your mouse on the first pixel in
a row will allow you to color that row of pixels. Click the pixel at the end of
the row you wish to color while continuing to hold down the SHIFT key.
This will automatically fill in the gaps in the pixels, saving you time. Make
an effort to finish the image below using the methods you've discovered thus
far.
Amazing work! You now possess the knowledge necessary to produce
original pixel graphics for your projects. Feel free to play around with various
color combinations and add whatever you like to your pixel image. To see the
finished product, switch off the grid we earlier set on.

UNDERSTANDING ADOBE PHOTOSHOP 2023

In Photoshop, the pencil tool can be used to draw patterns or lines, and it
comes with sharp edges by default. Adobe Inc. developed and produced
Photoshop, a raster image editor, for both Windows and Mac OS. Photoshop
is a unique photo editor that is utilized by people from all areas of the design
and creative industries. Photoshop is used for various things by even those
who are not designers. Even raster images can be created with Photoshop
using numerous layers, masks, alpha compositing, and several color models
including RGB, CMYK, spot color, duotone, and CIELAB.
One-Stop Design Package
The pencil tool in Photoshop is like a virtual pencil that users can use to
create designs or lines, with options to change the color, opacity intensity,
pencil diameter, and so forth. Users can also work with various modes to
enhance the outlook of your project and create original design artworks that
have a feel. The pencil tool is located in the toolbar on the left of Photoshop.
Users can activate it from there and bring their creativity to come out alive in
the canvas.
What is the Pencil Tool in Adobe Photoshop Used For?
The tools panel has the pencil tool. The pencil tool is activated by choosing
the appropriate option from the panel. Additionally, as was already said, the
software's tools are capable of carrying out a variety of tasks. The pencil tool
is the same. It's possible to utilize the pencil tool as a brush tool as well. The
pencil tool can even be accessed by pressing Shift + B.
The Brush Preset Picker option on the Options Bar lists 1 pixel as the tool's
default tip size. By clicking the thumbnail or the arrow in the Brush Box, the
user can alter the tip size of the Pencil Brush.
From the Mode Menu, the user can switch between Blend and Other than
Normal Mode. The blend mode enables many methods for blending colors
together. The user must modify the brush pencil's mode and opacity on the
drawing layer in the Layers Panel. This enables the user to have complete
control over the layer and to edit it whenever they want.
The slider on the layer menu or entering the opacity % in the text box can
both be used to adjust the pencil's opacity. The purpose of opacity is to
entirely or partially reveal or conceal the background.
In Photoshop, the brush tool and the pencil tool have very similar parameters.
The edges of the pencil tool are significantly harder than those of the brush
tool, which is the only distinction between the two tools. The edges of the
brush are softer and smoother. You can also use the pencil tool as an eraser.
A pencil tool allows the user to create lines anyway they choose.
The user can use the tool to draw a straight line between any two spots. A
straight line is produced by clicking once, releasing the mouse button, and
then clicking again while holding down the shift key.
The foreground color is changed to Hue by holding down the Alt Key and
clicking anywhere on the artboard.
The user's work is made incredibly quick and easy by the numerous little
shortcuts that Photoshop has. The V key can be used to activate the move tool
in between if the user so desires. By letting go of the Key, this can be
reversed. Without having to travel to the tools panel and utilize the move
tool, this simple shortcut really benefits the user and saves time.
How to Apply the Pencil Tool
The next steps will show you how to utilize the Pencil Tool in Photoshop in a
straightforward and easy manner.
Step 1: Select File > New Document.

Step 2: Choose the new document's parameters.

3. Access Windows – Tools: if there is no Toolbar.

Step 4: Choose the Pencil Tool from the Toolbar.

Step 5: Try out the Pencil Tool.

Step 6: To change the Brush's size and form, navigate to the Brush Preset
Panel.

Step 7: Apply the Pencil tool while choosing various Brush Styles.
It's really simple to learn Photoshop's tools. Although Photoshop is a sizable
application, once the concepts and approaches are learned and put to use,
they are invaluable. The designer can apply the knowledge everywhere. The
user will benefit greatly from using these basic pencil tool techniques. These
simple instructions can be used by the user to understand the fundamentals of
Photoshop.
 CHAPTER THREE
HOW TO RESAMPLE AN IMAGE SIZE
How to Resample Images in Adobe Photoshop Without Losing Quality
Using a tool like Photoshop is one method to accomplish this. Using the
"Image Size" dialog box in Photoshop, you can resize an image without
sacrificing quality.
Open an image in Photoshop, select "Image" from the menu dropdown, and
then "Image Size" to display the "Image Size" dialog box.
1. With Photoshop open, select your image under File > Open.
To use the tiger image below as a practice image, right-click it and choose to
save it.

2. Click on Image > Image Size.

3. A dialog box similar to the one shown below will show up.

4. Uncheck the Resample Image option to alter simply the resolution.

This instructs Photoshop that we do not wish to modify the photo's pixels in
any way. When we resize an image, pixels are added and subtracted (to
enlarge or shrink them). Changes to resolution only affect the number of
pixels displayed per inch rather than the total number of pixels in the image.
As we continue to change the resolution of our image, this will become more
apparent.
5. Enter the resolution you want in the Resolution area.
You'll see that the width and height of the document alter as well when you
enter a value in the Resolution field.

6. Press OK to accept the modifications.

Congratulations! You were able to effectively alter an image's resolution!
In this illustration, the image had a 300ppi resolution. I required this image to
be at least 600ppi because I wanted to put it in a professional newspaper.
Because we did not add or remove any pixels from the image, the pixel
dimensions remained constant. However, take note that when the Resolution
increased, the Document Width and Height reduced by 50%. At 300ppi, our
image was 10" x 6.667" and at 600ppi, it was 5" x 3.333". This means that I
can only print this image as large as 5" x 3.33" at 600 ppi while maintaining
full quality.
What happens if we switch from 300ppi to 150ppi of resolution?

As you could have expected, when we half our Resolution, our Document
Width and Height increased by two. The image size increased from 10" x
6.667" at 300ppi to 20" x 13.333" at 150ppi. My image will now print larger
but with significantly lower quality.
The pixel sizes remain constant, as we can see. We began with an image that
was 3000 × 2000 pixels (px) and kept the same size for the entire process. It
is crucial to keep in mind that while changing the resolution, we are simply
altering the number of pixels that will be shown on the image per inch, not
the number of pixels that make up the image.
3000 x 2000 pixels is the sample image.
3000 pixels × 600 pixels per inch equals 5 inches at 600ppi.
3.33 inches are equal to 2000 pixels at 600 pixels per inch.
300 dpi: 3000 pixels divided by 300 dpi equals 10 inches.
 2000 pixels divided by 300 pixels each equal 6.667 inches.
20 inches are equal to 150ppi (3000 pixels divided by 1 inch).
13 inches are equal to 2000 pixels at 150 pixels per inch.
72 ppi: 3000 pixels divided by 72 ppi equals 41.67 inches.
72 pixels per inch divided by 2000 pixels equals 27.78 inches.
What effect does printing resolution have?
In this illustration, our image has been printed on typical 8.5 × 11 sheets of
paper using a laser printer.

72 ppi: The document is clipped because it is too big to fit on an 8.5 x 11

sheet. The image appears incredibly grainy or "soft" due to the exceedingly
poor print quality.
150ppi: The image looks passable but not particularly appealing because the
document size is still too huge for the 8.5 x 11 sheet.
At 300 ppi, the image almost completely fills the paper and the print quality
is excellent with sharp, detailed images.
Although the image is much smaller than the other files (600ppi), the quality
is very great.
Which should you pick? The 72ppi and 150ppi photos are unusable because
their low resolution prevents them from making a high-quality print.
The 600ppi image was much too small, even if the 300ppi image appeared to
be highly sharp. The 300ppi image would be ideal for this example due to its
higher print quality and greater print size.
Finding the appropriate resolution that will create the size and quality you
require is the key to printing photographs.
GIMP Image Resizing Techniques Without Losing Quality
You might also give a program like GIMP a shot. You can get GIMP for
nothing from the internet. Using the "Scale Image" dialog box in GIMP, you
can resize an image without compromising its quality.
Open the "Scale Image" dialog box by opening an image in GIMP, selecting
"Scale Image" from the "Image" menu option, and then clicking.

From the selection box, choose a unit of measurement in the "Scale Image"
dialog box. Pixels, or "px," is the default choice.
Additionally, confirm that "Width" and "Height" are connected by a chain
icon. This will prevent your image's aspect ratio from changing, preventing
distortion:

The image will then automatically update if you alter either the horizontal or
vertical dimension.
v Additionally, choose either "Cubic" or "Sinc (lanczos3)" from the
"Interpolation" option.
v To resize the image, click the "OK" button at the end.
How to Use a Service to Resize an Image in Your Browser
Use an internet tool like PicResize if you don't have access to Photoshop,
Microsoft Paint, or GIMP. Enter PicResize into your browser to find it. Then
you can select the desired size after uploading an image. The image will be
resized using PicResize without losing quality.

A PicResize screenshot
You can resize an image without losing quality using several alternative
tools. Just a few of the most well-known programs are listed below.

HOW TO USE THE IMAGE RESIZE TOOL

The three best methods for resizing an image in Photoshop without
sacrificing quality are listed here. These choices make it simple to rescale an
entire image or simply increase the size of a layer.
The Image Size Adjustment
You can modify a photo's dimensions and resolution with the Image Resizing
tool. This approach is especially useful if you need to match exact
dimensions. To achieve the greatest results, especially if you're trying to print
a photo, you can directly change the image size.
This is how you do it:
Step 1: Select an image and then click on Image Size.
Go to Image > Image size when the layer you wish to make larger is chosen.

Alternatively, you can open the same tool by using the keys Alt + Control + I
on a PC or Option + Command + I on a Mac.
Step 2: Choose Your New Image Dimensions
There are a few options to choose from in the Image Size dialogue box. The
dimensions of your image as it is right now are the first thing to consider.
By using the drop-down option next to the window's top, you can modify the
dimension measures.

If you find it simpler to visualize image size using a different type of

measurement, this may be helpful. After all, a 1920 x 1080 pixel image is
harder to visualize than a 4 x 2 inch rectangle.
The options for width and height are located beneath that. They'll be pre-set
to match the size of your image as it is right now. However, they can be
altered to fit the desired image size.
Simply click on the width or height value to alter them, then enter a new
dimension.
Change the measurement value to inches or centimeters if you're trying to
resize your photo for printing. In this manner, you may precisely type in the
dimensions you need to print an 8 by 10 inch photo.

Simply put, this makes scaling your images much simpler and makes correct
sizing much easier.
Now, there are situations when you might not want to stick with the original
aspect ratio. If so, you should select the chainlink icon next to the dimension
values.
Your width and height can be changed separately when they are not linked. If
not, they'll be automatically changed to fit the photo's original aspect ratio.

Finally, using the Fit To option, you may select from a range of predefined
image dimensions and resolutions.
Modify your image resolution
You need now modify the resolution because your image's dimensions have
increased. Putting it simply, a higher resolution will give you more pixels in
your image, which will ultimately result in a higher quality and crisper
looking shot.

PPI (Pixels Per Inch) and PPC are the two methods available for adjusting
resolution (Pixels Per Centimeter).
Whichever resolution measurement you choose to utilize is really not
important. Simply be mindful of this setting if you're attempting to match
precise image specifications.
Simply enter a higher resolution value to boost the resolution of your image.
Make sure the resample option is selected and set to Automatic after that.

By using this setting, you may make your photo's proportions noticeably
larger without sacrificing the image's quality.
Step 4: Resize the image using your chosen settings.
When everything is ready, click OK at the bottom of the Image Size dialogue
box.
Photoshop may need a moment to apply your effects, depending on how
extreme your enlargements were.
Your image will enlarge after it is finished to the predetermined dimensions
and resolution.

This technique is one of the quickest ways to resize an image without

sacrificing image quality.
Smart Objects usage
The prior technique, however, only expanded one layer within its own
project. What does it matter if you wish to scale a layer when it can still be
moved around freely between Photoshop documents?
NOTE: In this case, smart objects are useful.
In Photoshop, using smart objects allows you to resize layers without
sacrificing quality. You can only ever alter the container and never the real
image because they put your image into a "container."
Therefore, even if you repeatedly scaled up and down a layer, the quality
would remain constant. Raster layers would result in a low-resolution,
pixelated mess.
In-depth information on how smart objects function is available in this post.
Let's go on and discover how to expand a layer using smart objects for the
time being.
Step 1: Convert Your Layer Into A Smart Object
You must first turn your layer into a smart object before making any
adjustments. Simply right-click when your desired layer is highlighted and
chose Convert To Smart Object.
The smart object icon that appears over the thumbnail of your layer will let
you know if it is a smart object.

Step 2: Use the Transform Tool to resize your layer.

Press Command + T (Mac) or Control + T (PC) when your smart object layer
is chosen to change the size of your layer.
You can scale your image to meet your needs by clicking on any corner of
the morph box.

Simply choose the Move Tool, drag it into your other project, and then move
it into another document if necessary.

You may easily enlarge your photo or move it between projects with just two
easy actions. The main drawback to this approach is that you have no control
over the precise photo proportions.
However, employing smart objects is an excellent technique to make your
photo fit on the canvas if you're working on a canvas with specific image
dimensions. The best part is that it ensures you maintain the best image
quality regardless of how much you scale the layer.

From Your Computer, Drag and Drop

You can just drag and drop photographs from your computer as a third
method to resize them without sacrificing quality. Photoshop enables you to
automatically move and scale the layer when you drag and drop files.
The layer is transformed into a smart object and keeps its original image
quality when you commit your changes. This technique is for you if you want
a more direct way to scale images and layers.
v First, choose a file on your computer.
v Find the file you want to work with on your computer and open
Photoshop.

Step 2: Drag and drop the file into Photoshop in step two.
Simply click and drag the picked image into your Photoshop document. By
doing this, it will instantly import into your Photoshop document and you
may start editing the picture.
Step 3: Resize Your Image to Fit Your Canvas
The image has a transform box around it when you first import it. This
implies that you can change the layer's size as necessary.

In this case, I want the photo to cover the full canvas, so I'll click on the
corner and drag it out as necessary.
You don't need to worry about making the image into a smart object just yet
because it hasn't been officially put.
Step 4: Make Your Changes Permanent.
After positioning your image correctly, click the checkbox at the top of your
screen to confirm your modifications. Alternatively, you can use your
keyboard's Enter key.

Your scale changes will now take effect, and your new layer will be
displayed in your layers panel as a smart object.
Simply pick the layer and select the Move Tool by pressing V if you need to
make any size adjustments. You can then modify the layer's size and position
from there.
In Photoshop, how to resize your canvas
Let's talk about your canvas now that you are aware of the three greatest
methods for resizing photos in Photoshop without sacrificing quality. You
might want to resize the entire canvas in some circumstances rather than just
a specific layer. Fortunately, doing this is fairly easy.
Go to Image > Canvas Size first.

There are two-dimension values that you can set in the Canvas Size dialogue
box. You can enter the desired new dimensions directly, just like when
resizing an image.
If necessary, you can also alter the measurement type using the drop-down
menu next to the dimension values.

You can customize how your canvas is enlarged using the Anchor option,
which is located below the dimensions. By default, it is set to the middle,
expanding your canvas equally on all sides.
Let's imagine, then, that I just wish to stretch my canvas vertically in an
upward direction. My anchor point would be set to the bottom middle, and
the height value would be modified correspondingly.

Now, rather of starting from the bottom, the canvas will only extend from the
higher area when I commit the changes.
Although not always required, the anchor point might be a useful choice if
the occasion presents itself. So it's important to remember!
How to Drag an Image to Change its Size
Choose the Move Tool (V) and click on the layer you wish to resize using the
dragging method. Your layer will now be surrounded by a transform box, the
edges of which can be clicked and moved. You can resize your layer as
necessary by dragging out the corners.
Having said that, it's crucial to keep in mind that if you don't initially turn
your layer into a smart object, you can lose quality. A rasterized layer that is
resized will gradually lose quality as its size is changed.

So make sure you are working with a smart object before you drag with the
Move Tool to drastically resize a layer!
Stretching Pictures When Resizing
There are a few simple shortcuts you may employ to scale and stretch an
image. Select the Move Tool and click anywhere on the edges of the layer's
transform box with your layer selected. Your layer can be stretched either
horizontally or vertically by holding down the Alt or Option key during
scaling.
By using this technique, the stretch modifications to both sides of your photo
will be coordinated.
So now that you're aware of a few alternative techniques for picture resizing
in Photoshop without sacrificing quality, you can also easily enlarge photos.
These are some of my favorite methods for adjusting the size of layers and
images in Photoshop, some of which are also the fastest.
HOW TO CHANGE THE SIZE OF A PICTURE
WITH THE TRANSFORM TOOL
Image resizing using Free Transform
I'll select Free Transform from the Edit option in the Menu Bar to
demonstrate the distinction between Transform Selection and the Free
Transform command in Photoshop.

v
 By selecting Edit > Free Transform.
The selection is surrounded by handles and a transform box in Photoshop. I
can resize the image inside the selection by dragging one of the handles
because I'm using Free Transform.

Selected pixels are resized via Free Transform.

To reverse it, I'll click the Cancel button in the Options Bar.

Press the Cancel button.

where the Transform Selection command can be found
Select Transform Selection from the Select menu to just resize the selection's
outline.
Selecting Transform Selection under Select.
Alternately, you can select Transform Selection from the menu by right-
clicking inside the selection outline.

by performing a right-click on the outline and selecting Transform Selection.

Using Transform Selection, resize the selection's outline.
The transform box and handles we observed surrounding the selection when
Free Transform was active also display when Transform Selection is selected.
This time, though, when we drag a handle, the image stays in place and the
selection outline itself gets resized.

Transform Selection just alters the selection's contour, not the individual
pixels.
Unlocking the aspect ratio
Because the link icon between the Width and Height fields in the Options Bar
is activated by default, dragging a handle resizes the selection outline while
keeping the aspect ratio locked.

The selected outline's aspect ratio is fixed by default.

Holding the Shift key while dragging the handles on your keyboard will
unlock the aspect ratio.
Drag the handles while holding Shift to unlock the aspect ratio.
Tips for moving the selection outline
Repositioning the outline is possible by clicking and dragging inside the
morph box.

You can drag inside the transform box to move the selection outline.
How to rotate the choice outline
By clicking and dragging just outside the outline, you may also rotate it. The
outline can be rotated by 15 degrees by dragging while using the Shift key.
Drag outside the chosen outline to rotate it.
How to reverse a change
Press Ctrl+Z on a PC or Command+Z on a Mac to reverse the previous action
you took with Transform Selection. Press once more to undo several actions.
The options for Skew, Distort, and Perspective
The same options as with Free Transform, such as Skew, Distort, Perspective,
and even Warp, are available if you right-click inside the transform box.
However, these choices are applicable to the selection outline itself when
using Transform Selection.

To access the transform options, perform a right-click inside the transform

box.
Skew
Choosing Skew from the menu causes:

Selecting the Skew alternative.

To distort the shape horizontally, move the top or bottom handle left or right.
Holding down the Alt or Option key while dragging will allow you to move
both handles in opposition to one another on a PC or Mac.

Horizontally skew the selected outline.

Additionally, you can skew the shape vertically by dragging the left or right
handle up or down. To move both side handles together in opposition to one
another, hold Alt or Option on a Mac or PC once more.
Vertically skewing the selected outline.
Distort
Choosing Distort from the context menu when you right-click inside the
transform box:

Distort is the option you select.

The corner handles can then be moved independently.

You can separately drag each corner handle when using distortion.
Perspective
If you select on Perspective:

Perspective can be selected from the menu.

The opposing corner is then moved simultaneously but in the opposite
direction by dragging a corner handle either horizontally or vertically.
Here, I'm pulling in on the top left handle, which also pulls in on the top right
handle. And as I drag the bottom left handle outward, the bottom right handle
slides outward with it.
Perspective causes the opposing corner handles to move in opposition to one
another.
Using Transform Selection, how to distort a selection outline
Warp will be available if you right-click inside the Transform Selection box:

Choosing The transform menu's warp option

Your selected outline is presented as a grid. The outline can be warped into
various shapes using the grid.

The grid of warp.

Drag a corner point to move it. It is possible to move each point
independently of the others.

Drag the grid points at the corners to distort the selection's outline.
Alternatively, you can move the direction handles by dragging them from the
corner points.

By dragging the direction handles, you may warp the outline.

Additionally, you can drag and click right on the grid outline (although
clicking exactly on the grid outline can be tricky). Here, I'm sliding the grid's
bottom downward.

Drag straight on the grid to warp the outline.

The best way to clear the warp grid
The Reset option in the Options Bar allows you to start over if you
completely screw up something in Warp mode (which is simple to do).

By selecting the Reset button, you can reset the grid.

I'll simply distort the grid by dragging the top and bottom inward and the left
and right sides outward.

Drag the top and bottom forward while pulling the left and right sides
outward.
Methods for embracing change
The checkmark in the Options Bar should be clicked to confirm your
modifications to the outline and end the Transform Selection action. Or you
can choose to end Transform Selection by clicking the Cancel button next to
the checkbox without saving your changes. However, I'll mark it with a
check.
The transformation is completed by clicking the checkbox.
My selection's outline now shows up with its changed shape.

The size and shape of the selection outline have been altered.
How to reverse a transformation selection
By selecting Undo Free Transform Selection from the Edit menu, I can
reverse the transformation and get my selection outline back to how it was
originally sized and shaped.

Selecting Edit > Undo Free Transform in the menu.

The selection's outline is resized to become a diagonal strip.
In order to set the narrow strip on either a transparent background or a solid
color background, I need to choose a section of the image that runs
diagonally from top to bottom.
Transform Selection is chosen
I'll right-click inside the outline and pick Transform Selection after my old
selection outline has been restored.

By performing a right-click and selecting "Transform Selection" in the

selection outline.
The selection outline is scaled back
The aspect ratio will then be unlocked by holding down the Shift key on my
keyboard, allowing me to drag the top handle to the top of the image and the
bottom handle to the bottom of the image.
While pressing Shift, move the top and bottom transform handles.
A selection outline that is distorted
I must distort the outline since I want it to be diagonal rather than vertical. I
will thus right-click within the transform box and select Skew.

Skew can be selected with a right-click.

I will then move the top handle to the right. I'll drag while pressing the Alt
key on a PC or Option on a Mac to make the bottom handle move in the
opposite way.
Create a diagonal strip by skewing the selection's outline.
Return to the default mode for Transform Selection
I'm going to move the side handles to change the outline's width. However,
since I'm still using Skew mode, I must first right-click inside the transform
box to return Transform Selection to its initial setting of Free Transform.

Transform Selection is being reset to Free Transform mode.

The outline can then be resized by dragging the side handles while pressing
the Shift key on my keyboard.
By pressing Shift and sliding the side handles, you may change the outline's
width.
Acknowledging the change
I'll choose it by checking the box in the Options Bar, then click the close
button on Transform Selection.

Selecting "accept" by clicking the checkbox.

My selection outline is now the right size and shape for me.
Resized from the original rectangular selection outline.
Finalizing the result:
We've now covered all the information required to resize selection outlines
using Photoshop's Transform Selection tool. But I'll wrap up the effect
quickly if you want to keep reading.
Creating a layer mask using the selection's outline
I want to replace anything outside of the selected outline with transparency
and then hide it. So I will create a layer mask out of the outline.
We can see the image on the Background layer in the Layers panel.

The Background layer is shown in the Layers panel.

Simply click the Add Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the Layers panel to
convert a selection outline into a mask.
Selecting the icon for Add Layer Mask.
And the outline is instantaneously replaced with transparency for everything
outside of it.

The surrounding environs are now transparent.

We can see that Photoshop turned the selection's outline into a layer mask by
going back to the Layers window. The image of the mask is concealed in the
black portion, and is visible in the white portion.

A thumbnail of the layer mask.

Background with a single color
But I want to use a solid color to fill the background rather than a translucent
one. Therefore, I'll create a Solid Color fill layer by selecting the New Fill or
Adjustment Layer option at the Layers panel's bottom:

Selecting the symbol for a new fill or adjustment layer.

likewise selecting Solid Color.

Adding a layer of solid color filling.

To accept the black default fill color for the time being, I'll click OK on the
Color Picker.
I'll take the default fill color of black for the time being.
The fill layer will then be moved below the picture in the Layers panel.

Lowering the fill layer so that it is beneath the picture layer.

The selection's immediate surroundings are now completely black.
Now, black fills the translucent spaces.
Choosing a background hue from the picture
I'll double-click on the color swatch for the fill layer in the Layers panel to
alter the background color.

Double-clicking the color swatch for the fill layer.

In order to sample a color, I'll click on one in the image rather than selecting
it from the Color Picker. And the new backdrop color is changed right away
to that hue. By selecting OK to dismiss the Color Picker, I'll accept it.
A color from the image is being sampled to serve as the new backdrop color.
Shifting the picture
The image needs to be shifted to the right, at the very least. I'll click the
image layer in the Layers window to activate it.

Choosing the picture layer.

From the toolbar, I'll choose the Move Tool.
The Move Tool is chosen.
Then, after clicking and dragging the image to the right, I can fill the empty
space on the left with text, a logo, or anything else I want to display.

Using the Move Tool to drag the image.

RESIZING A PICTURE USING PRESET
TEMPLATES
You want to easily resize your designs without having to rearrange anything,
but how can you do that? Smart Resize tool inserts each layer in your design
according to the new proportions you choose while maintaining the
formatting of your template. The days of giving up on trying to accurately
resize your photographs are long gone. Maintaining the visual quality of your
material is easy and simple with Smart Resize. Continue reading to find out
more about this useful tool and how to use it!
Utilizing Smart Resize
These days, there are precise image size restrictions for each social
networking platform. When using design templates, trying to rearrange your
material on canvases of various sizes for various platforms might be
frustrating. It is also an excellent tool to use for print media, whether you
need to make marketing pieces in various sizes or invitations for your events
that are a specific size.
Resizing Design Templates
It has been made simple to change the size of your template with only a few
clicks while keeping the formatting of your text. Open the Graphic Designer
when you're ready to begin scaling a design template.
Step 1: Pick a Template
From here, select the Templates option and then click Search Templates. You
can browse our template categories or search by any adjective. We will use a
Poster template for this project. By clicking on the thumbnail, choose
anything that grabs your attention, and then select the Use This Template
option.
Step 2: Resize your template
Pick the Customize tab from the panel on the left when the template has
loaded. You can view the template's current dimensions by clicking the
Resize Template button. To see a menu of alternatives, select Resize
Template.

For this lesson, we'll use Smart Scale to resize to an A4 while maintaining the
integrity of our pieces. Any template size preset can be used, or you can
choose Freeform and enter your own. When you put in the width or height
boxes with the Lock Aspect Ratio box checked, the aspect ratio will remain
the same. Simply uncheck that item if you want a completely different aspect
ratio with your specified specifications. Select the Resize button once you've
found the ideal size.
Step 3: Modify the design components as necessary
Depending on the size you select, you might still need to manually rearrange
your design elements even if you select the Smart Resize option. No matter
where in the process you find yourself needing a resize, you will have the
ideal sized template to build your design on!

Step 4: Save Your Design

Click the Save button at the top of the interface when you are happy with the
design's size and element placement. Once you've decided on a location,
you're done! Not to mention, you may save it as a BFD to continue editing at
a later time.
Change the Size of Your Design with a Few Clicks
Resizing your designs for use on many platforms is simpler than ever. You
may preserve your design and scale it without losing any of your content by
following a few easy steps! Use BeFunky's Graphic Designer to choose a
template design for Instagram and quickly resize it for all of your other social
media platforms. Click here to get started.
HOW TO USE A GRADIENT MASK IN ADOBE
PHOTOSHOP
To help merge one image into another in Photoshop, use a gradient mask.
Along with the layer's blending mode, the depth and opacity of the blending
can be changed.
The CS5, CS6, and Creative Cloud versions of Adobe Photoshop all have the
same functionality for this feature (CC).
View two pictures. In this illustration, a heron appears in the initial image,
which is followed by a scene on the river.
Choose the Move Tool, then click and hold on the image in the first file,
dragging it to the second.
Place the heron in the lower right corner of the aquatic scene so that the top
edge of the heron's image is parallel to the distant shoreline in the foreground
of the aquatic scene. Next, draw a rectangle enclosing only the heron image
using the Rectangular Marquee Tool.
Click the Add Layer Mask button [in the Layers Panel] to add a layer mask.

at the panel's bottom.

Choose [the Gradient Tool].
[Assure that white and black are selected as the foreground and background
colors, respectively.
Place your cursor in the image so that it is parallel to the heron's bill's tip.
While holding down the Shift key, click, hold, and drag from right to left to
the layer's edge. Release.

HOW TO SET UP AND ALIGN THUMBNAILS

IN ADOBE PHOTOSHOP ON A PAGE
Photoshop provides features for layer distribution and alignment. In this
illustration, thumbnail photos will be positioned inside a base image, then
positioned evenly along the right side.
Both Adobe Photoshop CS6 and CC have the same functionality for this
feature.
By selecting File > Place Embedded, you can insert the thumbnail images.
Select the desired photos, then click OK. For each image you're placing, press
Enter (PC) or Return (Mac) to complete the Place command. They will show
up as layers in the Layers panel and appear stacked on top of one another in
the image window.
Drag the image to the desired location in the image window by first selecting
the layer in the Layers panel where the image thumbnail will appear at the
top.

Drag the layer to the desired location after choosing the one where the image
thumbnail will appear.
When using the Layers panel, click on the top thumbnail layer, hold down the
Shift key, and click the bottom thumbnail layer to select all of the thumbnail
layers.

There are buttons labeled Align and Distribute in the Options Bar when
multiple layers are chosen. Select Distribute Vertical Centers after clicking
Align Right Edges.

The thumbnails are now evenly spaced and positioned.

HOW TO USE PANELS IN ADOBE

PHOTOSHOP
Using panels, you may manage, check on, and edit photographs. Some panels
contain menus that offer extra options and commands. In Expert mode, you
may arrange panels in both the standard and custom workspaces. The Panel
Bin can be used to store panels so they are out of the way yet still accessible.
Much of the power of Photoshop resides in panels, and each panel has a
specific function. There is a Layers Panel for maintaining layers, an
Adjustment Panel for controlling color correction, a Swatches Panel for
managing color swatches, and so on. Normally, the panels are fastened to the
Panel Dock. Based on tasks, Photoshop offers a number of pre-set default
workspace configurations that change what is shown on the Panel Dock and
Toolbar. The following steps will help you use the Panels in Adobe
Photoshop.
The CS5, CS6, and Creative Cloud versions of Adobe Photoshop all have the
same functionality for this feature (CC).
Select Painting from the drop-down Workspace menu in the Application Bar
at the top right of the screen. One of the standard Photoshop workspaces is
this one. Your Panel Dock has changed, as you can see. From the Workspace
drop-down menu in the Application Bar, select Essentials and then click
Back.

Two columns of panels are displayed on the dock in the Essentials

workspace. Only icons are displayed in the left-hand column. An expanded
view of the rightmost column is available. Double-click the drab gray bar at
the top of the expanded dock to collapse to an icon view. Double-click it
again to expand the dock.
When you click an icon, panels will also expand and disintegrate when you
click a different panel icon or the same icon again. Activate the History Panel
icon.

to increase it. To collapse it, click it once more.

You will now modify the workspace. The Window menu in Photoshop
provides access to every panel. Select Info from the Window menu.
Go to the Workspace list

and click New Workspace.

Specify a name for the new workspace in the dialog box. Every time you
open Photoshop, this will now be listed as a workspace.

You might occasionally wish to keep a panel separate from the dock so that it
stays enlarged. the Info Panel, please. If it is necessary, click the icon on the
dock to expand it. The Properties Panels, which show up as a tab, are grouped
with the Info Panel. To remove the panel from the panel group and the dock,
click and hold on the word Info in the tab. Release.

In a similar way, rearrange the Info Panel. Just to the right of the term
Properties, click and hold the word Info while dragging it back into the
group. The panel group will have a blue highlight around it to indicate that
you are about to regroup.

It is also possible to remove a complete panel from the dock. To the right of
the tabs in the Info Panel group, click and hold in the empty space. Release
after dragging away from the pier.
Click and hold in the dark gray bar and drag the panel group to the bottom of
the collapsed dock to re-dock it. When you are preparing to re-dock, a blue
highlight will emerge horizontally.
HOW TO MAKE THE MOST VARIABLE FONTS
IN ADOBE PHOTOSHOP
A typeface is a full set of letters, numerals, and symbols that all have the
same width, weight, and style, like 10 pt. Adobe Garamond Bold.
A single file that functions as several typefaces is known as a variable font.
Variable fonts can speed up page loads, but they also give readers on
websites a better reading experience and give designers more creative
latitude. While the technology is still in its infancy, it is supported by a
number of web browsers, several software programs, including the most
recent versions of Illustrator and Photoshop, and more will follow. Now is a
wonderful time to learn how changeable fonts function and how to use them
into your web designs.
This new function is included in Photoshop CC 2018.
The indicator that appears next to the font name in the Fonts menu indicates
whether a font is variable. The icon bears a little "VAR."

Both the text and layer levels can be used to adjust variable typefaces. You
can use the Move Tool to modify all of the text on the layer. Use the Type
Tool to highlight the text if only specific words or characters need to be
changed.
Make the Properties Panel visible. The settings for Weight, Width, and Slant
are visible.
You can change the text's boldness using weight.

The text will either be compressed or made wider.

False italics are produced by Slant.

MONITOR CALIBRATION
Calibration of a monitor or display involves bringing the colors on your
screen into compliance with the RGB (red, green, and blue) color standards.
The majority of TVs and computers use this model, which was developed in
the nineteenth century. Since almost all screens use the RGB model,
correcting color on a correctly calibrated screen will increase the likelihood
that your work will seem as you intended it to on other people's screens.
where to start when calibrating your colors.
You cannot achieve accurate color with either online calibration software or
the built-in Windows or Mac operating system calibration tools. Because
eyes are subjective, these systems rely on your vision.
You need to use a colorimeter to get color that is objectively accurate. A
colorimeter is a compact calibration tool that you can attach to your screen
and use with calibration software to adjust display color for your specific
screen and the lighting in your space. Wherever you are, tools like the
Datacolor Spyder and X-Rite ColorMunki will measure the ambient light and
suggest the best calibration settings.
Give your monitor roughly 30 minutes to warm up before starting the
operation. Avoid shining direct light on your monitor, and make sure the
lighting conditions are the same as when you modify the color of your work.
Your software will prompt you to specify your display type and target
settings as its initial action:

White point.
Pure white light is not a real phenomenon. A white that is heated more
intensely will have a bluish hue, just like the bluest area of a candle's flame.
Redder, orangeter, or yellower hues can be seen in cooler whites. The
temperature setting (measured in degrees Kelvin) that controls the warmth or
coolness of your whites on modern monitors is known as the white point. The
suggested white point for working with video on an LCD monitor is 6500K
or D65. This is sometimes referred to as your monitor's native temperature.
The white point of 5000K (D50) is advised when working with still
photographs that you intend to publish since it appears more white on paper.
Settings for gamma.
The rate at which colors go from black to white is known as gamma.
Although a higher gamma value will provide more contrast within that range,
it still has the same black and white extremes as a lower gamma value.
Depending on how you anticipate your video will be viewed, a certain
gamma level may be advised. The suggested display setting for a screen in a
bright space, like an office, is 2.2. The default configuration for Mac and
Windows computers is this.
The recommended setting for displays in dim environments, such as home
theaters, is 2.4 since contrast is easier to see there.
Luminance.
The brightness or luminous intensity of the display is referred to as
luminance. When performing color correction, it's crucial to maintain
consistency with this option to avoid correcting one scene at one brightness
level and another at a completely different one. A typical LCD screen should
have a brightness of 120.
The automatic calibration procedure will start as soon as you've verified your
monitor's settings. The colorimeter will compare the colors on your monitor
to industry standards, map the differences, and produce a special color profile
(also known as an ICC profile) just for your display.
You can identify precise color hues and communicate them across devices if
you have a precise profile.
When ought a calibration to be performed?
You should calibrate displays at least once a month to guarantee that your
colors remain consistent, especially as your monitor ages and its hues shift.
Others contend that technology has progressed to the point that color on all
devices is essentially adequate. If precise color isn't your main concern, test
your films on a few different devices to make sure nothing is noticeably off.
Taylor Kavanaugh, a producer and filmmaker, frequently takes this tact. .
According to Kavanaugh, "Our users view our content on an iPhone, iPad, or
Samsung television, so we always look at it on all the platforms that we know
it will be viewed on."
You can always play it safe by avoiding significant color modifications if
color fidelity isn't your top priority. According to colorist and editor Gerry
Holtz, "if you're remaining in the broad scope, keeping things kind of even, it
will usually translate over multiple devices pretty well." "When you push
anything, issues start to arise. On a different device, it can be excessive to
oversaturate the colors, provide too much contrast, or crush the blacks.
If issues arise, you can fix them by utilizing Adobe Premiere Pro's Color
Correction curves.

ZOOMING IN PHOTOSHOP
There are various zoom options. For various uses and workflows, Photoshop
provides a variety of zoom settings, along with keyboard shortcuts for rapid
access to each one.
Working with images, graphics, or illustrations is fun since Photoshop allows
you to zoom in, zoom out, and pan. We can narrow or widen our field of
view by using the Zoom Tool.
Pressing Ctrl + (plus symbol) on a Windows computer or Cmd + (plus
symbol) on a Mac is the easiest way to zoom in on an image. Press the Ctrl-
or Cmd-keys to zoom out (minus symbol).
Zooming tool
1. Use File > Open and browse for your image to open an image in
Photoshop.
2. As soon as Photoshop opens your image, check out the status bar at the
bottom of the image window. This information reveals the image's current
zoom level. The picture tab also displays the zoom level.
3. Press Z on your keyboard or choose the Zoom Tool from the toolbar. the
zoom tool
The zoom function will be utilized frequently. Try to remember the shortcut
Z for Zoom.
1. Hover the cursor over your image and zoom in. The cursor morphs to
resemble a little magnifying glass with a plus sign (+) in the middle.
2. Click once on your image, anywhere.

A new zoom level is indicated on the picture tab and in the status bar when
the image enlarges. The center of the expanded view is where you clicked on
the Zoom tool.

Click repeatedly until the image is enlarged by a maximum of 12,800%. The

individual pixels that make up the image are visible at this level.

Hold down the Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac) key to zoom out (Mac). Click
anywhere in the image to use the zoom tool's magnifying glass, which
appears with a minus sign (-) in the center. The vision now decreases in
magnification as it zooms out.
2. Continue clicking and zooming out until you reach 0.06% of the image's
true size by holding down the Alt key (Windows) or Option key (Mac).
Zoom Tool Hint: Double-click the Zoom tool on the toolbox to rapidly return
to 100% magnification.
Zooming in on a certain area of the picture
1. Make sure "Click and move left or right to zoom" is not activated while the
Zoom tool is selected on the Options bar at the top. The "scrubby" Zoom
button is another name for this one. We'll leave it off for now.

2. Click and drag a rectangle to enclose a certain region in your image. As

you drag, you'll notice dotted lines forming a rectangle.
Release the mouse button once you've dragged the rectangle to the desired
size. The region you outlined with the rectangle now fills the whole image
window because the image has been magnified.
Using the "Scrubby" Zoom
1. While the Zoom tool is still selected, click the "Click and move left or right
to zoom" button on the Options bar at the top of the screen.

2. By clicking and dragging to the left, the zoom level is decreased, or

zoomed out.
3. To enhance the magnification, click and drag to the right. i.e., enlarged.
How to utilize the Photoshop Hand tool
You can pan or move around your image with the hand tool. You nearly get
the impression that you are moving a picture around on your desk. Clicking
on the Hand tool will select it from the toolbar. However, pressing the space
bar on the keyboard is the simplest way to use it.
Here is a little tutorial on how to use it:
1. In Photoshop, open the image and use the Zoom tool to enlarge it (Z). the
zoom tool
2. From the toolbar, choose the Hand tool. a hand tool. When a hand appears
as the cursor, click and drag to move the image around. Your image will
travel in the direction that you push it, as you can see.
This is advantageous because it prevents us from having to zoom out once
more in order to work on another area of the picture. Simply move the
camera across to the area we wish to see.

The top choices bar, which displays three buttons when the Hand tool is
selected, reads 100% (or real pixels), Fit Screen, and Fill Screen. You can use
these parameters to modify the image's magnification level when using the
Hand.
Keyboard shortcut for a hand tool
Press Z to select the zoom once more. When you press and hold the space
bar, the pointer switches to the Hand tool. To move your image and see all of
it, keep hitting the space bar on your computer.
Tip for the hand tool: To fit the entire image on your screen, double click the
hand tool in the toolbar. This is equivalent to Windows' Ctrl+0 or Mac's
Cmd+0.
Using the Navigator panel, magnify and pan
You can switch between views of your image using the Navigator panel's
thumbnail display. The region of the window that can now be seen is shown
by a red box in the Navigator.
1. To change how you see the image, move the slider on the Navigator panel
to the left and right.
2. To magnify the image to 3200%, move the slider all the way to the right.

3. Hover your mouse over the red rectangle in the Navigator panel to see how
the hand icon appears. Drag the rectangle in a panning motion with the hand.
As you can see, the operation of the Navigator panel is similar to that of the
Zoom tool and the Hand tool.
This Photoshop zoom and pan tutorial is now complete. Remember to press Z
for zoom and Spacebar for hand tool panning.

HOW TO USE PHOTOSHOP HAND TOOL

The Hand Tool: What Is It?
You may edit with photos or make your own graphics from scratch using a
wide range of tools in Adobe Photoshop. The Hand tool is one of them.
Although many Photoshop users may never utilize this feature, it is a useful
program that can help you finish your task much more quickly. The Hand
tool is typically seen more as a function than a physical instrument. This is
because using it rarely requires you to click on it. When using any other tool,
all you have to do to activate it is keep the spacebar depressed. When you do
this, the hand icon appears as the cursor in an instant.
When you have the zoom level set to more than 100% and a portion of the
image is hidden from view, you can move it using the Hand tool.
The Function of the Hand Tool
You can drag your image around the Hand tool's window to move it. The tool
can be used to navigate around an image and zoom in on particular areas of
the image.
Most Popular Uses
The most frequent use of this tool is to enlarge a certain area of an image. It is
typically utilized in conjunction with the Zoom tool. By centering the area of
the image you are working with when you use the Hand tool, you may focus
on a particular detail. When you have already edited an image and want to
see the changes you have made more closely, this tool is also useful.
It can be used to focus the previously altered region in the image's center, and
you can then use the Zoom tool to take a closer look at the adjustments. Once
you've seen what you want to see, you can choose to save the image as is or
to change it further.
Useful Features
In Photoshop, the Hand tool's functions are typically used to move a part of
an image to center and focus it. When working with a smaller image and
needing to zoom in, the tool makes it simpler for you to focus on one
particular area at a time.
You can repair an image if it needs it by paying attention to the little things,
like if you have a picture of two people and their eyes are red.
When to Employ a Hand Tool
The tool works well for inspecting any image modifications. However, since
it only rearranges an image's components for viewing, it is not the kind of
tool you would use for editing.
Playing around with it while using Photoshop is the best way to get
accustomed to how the Hand tool works. For more information on mastering
this robust program, watch our informative Photoshop tutorial videos.

HAND TOOL KEYBOARD SHORTCUT

v Press "Z" on your keyboard to activate the zoom tool.
v To zoom out, hold down the Alt or Option key.
v Command/control + 0 for "Fit to Screen"
Hand Tool: Use the spacebar to navigate the image while it is zoomed in.
Your Image Rotate - Type "R" into your keyboard, then click and drag with
your mouse.
Rotate in 15-degree increments by selecting the rotate tool (R), holding down
the shift key, and dragging the mouse.
 CHAPTER FOUR
HOW TO UNDO A COMMAN
Using Control/Command + Z to undo an edit

By choosing Undo from the Edit

Menu, you can easily and immediately reverse any changes you've made to a
document in Photoshop. The very first option in the Edit Menu is Undo, and
you can make it even simpler and more productive by using the keyboard
shortcut Command-Z (Mac) or Control-Z.

Choosing Undo from the Edit Menu or, better yet, pressing Control + Z
(Windows) or Command + Z on a keyboard shortcut (Mac)
This should be the Photoshop keyboard shortcut that you learn first and
foremost. It is quick, simple, and something you will use frequently. Your
workflow will be significantly slowed down if you use the Edit Menu to undo
something. Being able to easily use Control/Command + Z to undo will save
a lot of time, especially when utilizing tools like the Clone Stamp or Healing
Brush tools.
Since this is a pretty common keyboard shortcut across most significant
software products, you will probably know both it and its location within the
Edit Menu. As with the majority of modern software programs, you can step
back through the changes you've made to your document by repeatedly
pressing Command/Control + Z or by selecting Undo.
You can undo your previous action by pressing the Shift + Control + Z
(Windows) or Shift + Command + Z (Mac) keyboard shortcut, or you can
redo using the Edit Menu. Photoshop also offers the option to “Toggle Last
State” which allows you to quickly analyse the effect the last change you
made has on the overall image. While you could achieve this by switching
between Undo and Redo, using Control + Alt + Z (Windows) or Command +
Option + Z (Mac) is a somewhat easier way to toggle your most recent
change on and off.
Legacy Undo Shortcuts
If you've used Photoshop for a while, you probably already know that the
Undo command used to work differently than it does in the current edition.
The functionality of the Undo command was the same as Toggle Last State
before to Photoshop CC version 20.0 (issued in late 2018), and Adobe
provided the ability to step backward as a separate command. Similar to how
undo works in the latest Photoshop release, step backward does the same
tasks.

Photographers regularly employ Photoshop's undo features, which include the

capacity to undo multiple changes (or proceed backward through the history
states) and the capacity to toggle the most recent modification on and off. The
toggling option finally prevailed after a dispute among Adobe engineers over
how the undo command should initially operate. But since practically every
other contemporary software package provides an undo feature that enables
you to go back several steps, Adobe's decision to modernize the capability
makes logical. You do have the choice to configure your preferences to
utilize the "Legacy Undo Mode," though, if you would rather use the prior
undo capabilities because that is what you are used to or because it makes
sense for your workflow.
Go to the Edit Menu to enable the legacy undo feature. Choose Keyboard
Shortcuts, then click the "Use Legacy Undo Shortcuts" check box in the
dialog box. The next step is to restart Photoshop. Command/Control + Z now
toggles the most recent modification you made on and off, and Alt + Control
+ Z (Windows) or Command + Option + Z (Mac) now steps backward
(though the history states).
The Panel for History
Using Control/Command + Z or choosing Undo from the Edit menu in
Photoshop will work just fine to quickly undo the last change or two you
made to your image. But you should refer to the History Panel when you
need to make adjustments that go back more than a few stages. To open the
History Panel, choose History from the Window Menu. This Photoshop panel
is quite simple compared to others. It provides a list of the historical
iterations, or alterations, of your document.
The modifications you make as you edit your image will appear in the
history, and you can easily click back on any modification to take your image
back to that previous state. Although you could potentially perform this with
the undo feature, the History Panel makes it easier to undo many changes at
once.
But the History Panel provides more functionality than just a quick way to
undo several times. You can take point-in-time snapshots of your image in
this window as well as change the history brush's state (see below). A
screenshot of your image is taken when you click the camera icon in the
History Panel's lower right corner. A snapshot is essentially a bookmark of a
certain place in your image's history. The History Panel's top section displays
snapshots, and clicking one takes the document back to that particular
moment in time. If you want to quickly undo changes to your image after
doing multiple steps of editing, take snapshots before you begin.
Additionally, taking several photos and switching between them is a quick
approach to assess and compare your image modifications.
The History Panel will automatically record 50 history states. This may seem
like a lot, but each click or brush stroke while painting, using the healing
brush, or cloning, for instance, creates a new history state, so fifty is not as
many as it may appear.
Photoshop can be configured to recall more historical states
(Edit>Preferences>Performance), but keep in mind that doing so can slow
down Photoshop's performance (conversely, if you are running Photoshop on
an older or slower machine you might want to decrease the number of history
states to help improve performance). The ability to undo to a point further
back in history than your history panel would ordinarily let is another reason
why snapshots can be helpful.
Understanding that snapshots and history states are stored in Photoshop's
working memory and are not saved with the file is crucial for using the undo
feature. You lose those history states and can no longer undo past
modifications after you close a picture or Photoshop. This emphasizes the
significance of the non-destructive working methods we shall discuss later in
the article.

HOW TO MAKE A PICTURE STRAIGHT AND

HOW TO CROP IT

Place a crop border.

Setting the crop border with the Crop tool is presumably the quickest and
most adaptable approach to crop a picture.
1. In the Tools Palette on the left side of the screen, in the fifth box from the
top, select the Crop tool. It appears like two right angles overlapping. The
crop box ought to show up in your image. If it isn't there, click and hold the
toolbox until a fly-out appears with all the items within.
2. To eliminate any previous cropping choices, select Clear in the Tool
Options box at the top. After selecting another tool from the Tools Palette,
click the Crop icon once again.
3. Your crop border has 8 handles, including 4 in the corners and 4 down the
sides. To resize and reposition the crop border in your image, click and drag
it by the handles. To move the crop frame within the image, click and drag
inside of it.
4. To apply this crop to your photo once you're happy with it, click the check
mark in the tool options box.
Quick tip: You may always click the Cancel symbol in the Tool Options
menu if you don't like your crop and want to start over. By doing this, you
return the Crop to its initial state. Alternately, disable Delete Cropped Pixels,
which is covered in more detail in this article.
Create a custom crop border.
It could be easier to "draw" the drop using your mouse pointer than to drag
and arrange your crop using the border handles.
1. In the Tools Palette on the left side of the screen, select the Crop tool.
2. Place your cursor inside the crop frame and inside the image. You should
be able to notice that the cursor resembles a crop frame.
3. Use the mouse to click and drag. You need to watch it begin to depict a
rectangle. The rectangle should change into a crop frame after you let go of
the mouse pointer. Using the crop handles as described in the last section,
you can now resize and move the crop frame.
Crop by aspect ratio
The most popular cropping method is this one, particularly among
photographers and designers who want to ensure that an image precisely
matches a particular aspect ratio, like 4x5 or 16x9.
1. From the Tools Palette, select the Crop tool. The crop box ought to show
up in your image.
2. In the Tools Options at the top of the screen, enter the desired aspect ratio.
Select the desired aspect ratio by clicking the Ratio drop-down. The two
fields to the right of the Ratio drop-down also let you enter the aspect ratio.
3. Click the arrows between the aspect ratio fields to invert the aspect ratio
(for instance, if you want 9x16 instead of 16x9).
4. Using the crop handles as described in the last section, you can now adjust
the crop frame's dimensions and positioning.

Implement the crop overlay

Use the crop overlay, which overlays a grid over the crop frame, with any of
the cropping techniques we've covered. When you reframe your image, the
crop overlay is intended to help you create an artistic, creative, or other
aesthetically pleasing composition. The overlay is not a part of the final
image; it is merely there to assist you with crop composition.
There are six overlays available in Photoshop, and you can choose the one
that best suits your image or design.
The Golden Spiral overlay, which resembles a Fibonacci Spiral, might help
you organize the crop so that the most crucial elements of the picture match
up with the mathematical curve. For instance, the Rule of Thirds overlay
might help you place your subject along a line of thirds within the image.
1. From the Tools Palette, select the Crop tool. The crop box ought to show
up in your image.
2. Click the Crop Overlay button in the Tool Options at the top of the image
and make sure Always Show Overlay is selected.
3. Select the overlay type you want to use from the Crop Overlay option.
4. Finish your image by cropping it as usual.
To a chosen boundary, crop
Using selecting tools, you may also specify the crop's size and aspect.
1. Select a selection tool from the Tool Palette. For instance, you can select
the Rectangular Marquee tool in the top-left corner.
2. To create a rectangular selection in your image, click and drag.
3. In the Tools Palette, select the Crop tool. The crop frame need to
immediately correspond to the choice. If you make an irregular selection with
a tool like the lasso, it will create a rectangle that contains the entire selection.
4. At this point, you can adjust the crop frame's size, position, and other
aspects as usual.
Utilize content-aware crop filling
You have the choice to activate a content-aware fill when using the crop tool.
That means if your crop goes beyond the edge of the image, for example if
you make the crop bigger than the image or rotate the crop frame so the
corners reach outside the image, Photoshop's artificial intelligence can
intelligently fill in any missing information. You only need to turn this
feature on in the crop tool's preferences to use it.
1. From the Tools Palette, select the Crop tool. The crop box ought to show
up in your image.
2. Check the Content Aware box in the Tool Options section at the top of the
image.
3. Use your discretion when sizing and positioning the crop frame. With this
function enabled, you can adjust the crop frame such that it goes beyond the
boundaries of the original image.

4. To apply this crop to your photo after you're happy with it, click the
checkmark in the Tool Options column. The picture's blank spaces ought to
start to fill up.
Quick tip: When using the Crop tool in Classic mode, content-aware
cropping will not function. Click the Crop tool, then click the Gear icon in
the Tool Options toolbar, and then uncheck the Use Classic Mode box to turn
off Classic mode.
Make use of the perspective crop tool
To fix a picture with a perspective distortion, use a different crop tool.
Consider taking a picture of a tall skyscraper. It will appear distorted, but you
can fix it by using the perspective crop tool.
1.To begin, select the perspective crop tool. The Perspective Crop tool is
situated in the same cubby as the crop tool; to access it, click and hold the
cubby and choose Perspective Crop from the list of available tools.
2. To create a rectangular selection in your image, click and drag.
3. To change the crop frame's contours, click and drag its corners. You might
wish to adjust the crop if you want to correct the perspective of an object.
4. To apply this crop to your photo after you're happy with it, click the
checkmark in the Tool Options column. When the crop is applied, you should
notice a shift in its viewpoint.

How to make a cropped photo straight in Photoshop

The crop tool can be used to align a misaligned image. In fact, a
photographer's workflow frequently includes straightening pictures in
addition to cropping.
1. In the Tools Palette on the left side of the screen, select the Crop tool.
2. Use the crop handles on the crop frame's corners and sides to resize and
adjust its position.
3. To straighten an image, place the cursor on the Photoshop work area
background, outside of the picture canvas. The pointer should transform into
a curve with arrows at both ends.
4. Use the mouse to click and drag. The image should rotate as you watch.
Rotate the image
5. Use the mouse to click and drag. The image should rotate as you watch.
Small rotations of the image are necessary to straighten it. In order to align
the gridlines with the horizon or another level line in the image, it can be
useful to activate a grid overlay (see the section previously in the article on
grid overlays).
6. To apply this crop to your photo after you're happy with it, click the
checkmark in the Tool Options box.

How to adjust the canvas size in Photoshop

You might need to resize the canvas in addition to cropping a photo in order
to recompose the photograph, alter the aspect ratio, or better highlight a topic.
This entails enlarging the workspace that the image is displayed on (or
smaller). The currently chosen backdrop color usually fills the canvas when
you enlarge it. You can paste photos from another file into the new canvas
space or use it as a frame or vignette.
1. Select Canvas Size, then Image.
2. You can specify the canvas size in the Canvas Size dialog box. For
instance, you might usually enlarge it to provide room for a frame or another
image Click the Pixels drop-down and select Percent to double the canvas's
width while maintaining its height. Change Width to 200 after that.
3. Choose which direction the new canvas should be facing. The current
image's position on the canvas is indicated by the Anchor. Click the center
left grid position to make the arrows point left, and the new canvas will
appear on the right.
4. Press OK.
How to retrieve erased pixels back in Photoshop when
trimming
In most cases, when you crop a picture, the pixels in the areas you've
removed are just destroyed. However, it is not necessary to be that way.
Cropped pixels can simply be made invisible if that's what you wish.
The benefit of this strategy is that you can apply the crop and, if you don't
like the results, quickly reselect the crop tool and give it another try. The
removed pixels will instantly reappear once you grab and move one of the
crop frame's handles, and you can try again as often as you wish.
1. On the left-hand side of the screen, in the Tools Palette, select the Crop
tool.
2. Uncheck the box next to Delete Cropped Pixels in the toolbar for tool
options at the top of the screen.
3. Now continue cropping as usual. You can crop the original image again at
any time by applying the crop and then going back to the crop tool.
HOW TO ADJUST THE LAYER SIZE
It's simple to change the size of a specific picture layer in Adobe Photoshop
without changing the size of the entire image. Applications for this feature in
graphic design and photo editing are countless.
Perspective-enhancing scale components.
Make your head smaller in that uncomfortable family photo, or add a palm
tree to your holiday photos and scale it up to fit.
Text Resizing
How do you add words to an image? Put each phrase on its own layer, then
tinker with the size until it stands out.

Ensure that your design is balanced.

You can adjust an element's layer size to balance your composition whether
you're creating a logo or an artwork.
Keep your pixels safe.
An image's quality can be affected by repeated scaling. Resizing a layer with
Smart Objects preserves the clarity of your image without obliterating any
pixels.

How can I alter a layer's size in Photoshop?

Using the Free Transform tool, you may change a layer's size in four easy
stages.
1. Select the layer or layers you wish to resize from the Layers panel.
2. Change it by choosing Edit Free Transform.
3. Resize it: To resize or rotate the content, click and drag its corners or edges
while holding down the Shift key to prevent distorting the image.
4. Complete it: To complete your changes, press Enter (on Windows) or
Return (on macOS).
Use the Free Transform tool to modify the field values if you want to make
exact changes to the layer's size.
1. Choose it: From the toolbar on the right, choose the Move tool.
2. Display it
From the Options menu, choose Show Transform Controls.
3. Click it: Select the bounding box that encloses the chosen layer by clicking
on it.
4. Adjust it: To scale the layer to a particular number, enter the desired
percentages next to Width and Height. To choose another unit of
measurement, such as pixels, centimeters, or inches, right-click inside the %
area.
5. Finish it: Press Enter or click the checkbox next to the menu bar when
you're finished.
HOW TO ADJUST BRIGHTNESS AND CONTRAST
Great images typically have a lot of contrast. A wide tonal range is frequently
desired. To have pixels that range from completely black to completely white
and everything in between. However, since you use natural light and have no
control over the environment, you occasionally need to enhance your images
in post-processing. You have access to all the tools you require in Adobe
Photoshop to improve contrast and give your photos the sense of depth and
three-dimensionality they require.
Use the Histogram for Ideas
You may view the distribution of dark and bright values in your original
image by using the histogram. The histogram is located in Photoshop's upper
right corner.
How many dark tones are there in your photograph is indicated on the left
side. The centre of the graph displays how many tonal values you have in the
mid-tones, while the right side of the graph displays how many brilliant tones
you have in your image.
In general, you want a histogram that is evenly spaced, has a bar that touches
both its right and left sides, and has its peaks in the middle or somewhat to
the right of it.
Making use of the Contrast/Brightness Adjustment Layer
You can alter the contrast between an image's lightest and darkest sections by
using the contrast/brightness adjustment. In other words, you can change an
image's tonal range.
By adjusting the brightness slider, you can make the image brighter or darker
and favor highlights or shadows. However, by adjusting the contrast slider,
you can change the image's tonal range. The image has more contrast the
wider the tonal range.
Follow these procedures to increase contrast to your photos:
You may also open the Adjustments panel and select the Brightness/Contrast
symbol by selecting Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Brightness/Contrast.
To improve the contrast of the image, move the Contrast slider to the right.
The range of contrast is from -50 to 100.

Curves Adjustment Layer usage

Another tool that lets you change an image's tonal range is the Curves
adjustment. The Curves tool depicts the tonal range as a straight diagonal line
and lets you shift control points up or down, unlike the Contrast/Brightness
adjustment, which uses a slider. A maximum of 14 control points may be
used. The histogram of the original tonal range is displayed as a reference in
the Curves tool's background.
The highlights are represented by values in the upper-right, while the
shadows are represented by values in the lower-left. Thus, the original tonal
values, which range from black to white, are represented on the horizontal.
Your tweaks also produce a vertical range of output from black to white.
So, you shift something up if you want to make a point more clear. Move the
point down if you want to make it darker.
You must widen the gap between shadows and highlights to boost contrast
using the Curves adjustment. As a result, you must drag the control points to
the left, right, or up and down. A control point's value increases when you
move it to the left. Reduce the value of a control point by dragging it to the
right. Move a control point in the highlights area to the left and one in the
shadows area to the right to increase the contrast.
To increase contrast in Photoshop, utilize the Curves adjustment layer as
follows:
Select Layer, New Adjustment Layer, and Curves (alternatively, you can
open the Adjustments panel and click on the Curves icon).
To define a control point, click the curve line in the upper-right corner of the
highlights. Next, move the control point up or to the left.
To define a control point, click the curve line in the lower left corner of the
shadows area. Drag the control point down or to the right after that.
A typical contrast adjustment using the curves adjustment is to create an S-
shaped curve by lowering the dark tones and raising the brighter values.
Use the background histogram as a reference to define your control points.
Place your control points where the histogram is empty to work on those
areas. If so, shift the line's endpoints (the black and white spots) in the
direction of the curved line until they are at the edges of the histogram. The
change will make the image's overall contrast stronger.
Photoshop is even more beneficial. Using the On-Image tool, the control
points can be defined automatically. By selecting the matching icon in the
Curves Properties tab, you may start using the On-Image tool.
Using the On-Image tool, you may make a control point by clicking in the
image and dragging it up or down to make it brighter or darker. Photoshop
determines how much light is present there and positions the area on the
curve line accordingly. The curve is then modified based on your dragging
motion.
Making use of the Levels Adjustment Layer
You can modify the brightness levels in one of the image's histograms using
the Levels adjustment. As you are aware, the histogram displays the number
of pixels in your image that correspond to various tonal values. Tonal values
have 256 different options. The Input Levels sliders therefore range from 0
(black) to 255. (white).
A continuous histogram encompassing all 256 values and featuring both pure
white and pure black pixels is ideal for your image. However, since this isn't
always the case, you can alter the white and black point levels as well as the
tonal range using the Levels adjustment. As a result, your photo's contrast
will be increased.
You can apply the Levels adjustment in Photoshop to the RGB composite
channel or a single-color channel. As a result, you can use it in landscape
photography, for instance, to make the shades of blue darker and the shades
of green lighter. With the tool, your editing process is more flexible and you
have control over every aspect of the image. You can add contrast to a
specific color to achieve a more subdued impact rather than the entire image.
An RGB histogram that is balanced greatly enhances nature photography.
Additionally, you may make your images realistic-looking by choosing
which pixels to create pure white, pure black, or mid-tone gray. You may
replicate the whiteness of snow or clouds in your photos to give them a
realistic appearance. Additionally, you can alter the mood of a picture by
making it appear more sunny or cloudy.
A quick and effective technique to improve an image's overall contrast is to
use the Levels adjustment. All you have to do is adhere to these instructions:
Activate Levels by selecting Layer > New Adjustment Layer (alternatively,
you can open the Adjustments panel and click on the Levels icon).
Select a selection from the Channel drop-down menu (i.e., RGB, R, G, or B)
The black and white Input Levels sliders should be moved to the right and
left, respectively, until they are at the edges of the histogram.

Moving the center Input slider allows you to change the mid-tones as well.
The image will seem darker if you move the slider to the left, approaching the
black Input slider. The image will appear brighter if you move the slider to
the right, approaching the white Input slider.
Remember the Manual Method: Dodge and Burn
Use more focused techniques to increase contrast when there is only one
subject in your photos that needs to stand out. Consider taking a macro
photograph of a bug and wishing to make the insect stand out from the
background. The Dodge and Burn tools in Photoshop work well for this
change. The brush-covered area is made lighter using the Dodge tool and
darker by the Burn tool. As a result, you can focus one tool on the subject
while using the other on the background.
To increase contrast, use the Dodge or Burn tool as described below:
To make sure you don't change the background layer permanently, first
duplicate it.
v Choose the Burn or Dodge tool.
v Configure the brush settings (e.g., size, opacity, exposure, etc.).
v Select whether you wish to change the highlights, shadows, or
midtones from the Range option.
v To dodge or burn a portion of the image, click or drag the mouse
over the desired region.
Normally, you would want to dodge and burn to either emphasize tonal
contrasts or level out undesirable tonal disparities. I've lightened the bird's
back and belly in this picture while darkening its lower wing. This highlights
the bird's three-dimensional shape.
 CHAPTER FIVE
HOW TO ADJUST COLOR VIBRANCY
Vibrance modifies the saturation to reduce clipping as colors get closer to
their maximum saturation. Less saturated colors have a greater rise in
saturation as a result of this change than saturated colors do. Additionally,
vibrancy keeps skin tones from becoming overly saturated.
Using vibrancy
From the Adjustments menu, choose the Vibrance adjustment. The Properties
window will open, and a Vibrance layer will be added to the Layers panel.
Go to Window > Adjustments if the Adjustments panel isn't already visible.
The Properties panel's settings can be modified. To raise or reduce vibrance,
move the vibrance slider to the right or left. The image will instantly reflect
any changes made.

Adjustments for Modifying

A new layer for the adjustment is produced in the Layers panel after an
adjustment is added to an image.
Displaying the locations of the adjustment layer edits
 v Double-click the adjustment's symbol in its layer to reopen it later.
v The Properties Panel for the adjustment will show up with any
modifications.
v A layer can be deleted by clicking it and dragging it to the trash bin
in the Layers Panel.
v Changing Particular Areas (Masking)
v To apply an adjustment to an area or layer specifically:
v From the Layers panel, select the appropriate layer and the
associated image.
v Use a selection tool, such as the Quick Selection tool, to highlight
the object or area (see Photoshop: Selection Tools for more details).
v From the Adjustments panel, choose the desired adjustment. The
Adjustment will receive a fresh mask.
Note: The Properties panel's settings can be modified. Only the area that is
covered will be impacted.
MODIFICATION OF SATURATION AND HUE
With the use of hue/saturation, you may change the hue, saturation, and
lightness of a specific spectrum of colors in a picture or all the colors in the
image at once. This adjustment is particularly useful for adjusting colors in a
CMYK image so that they fit the output device's color gamut.
 1. The first step is to choose the layer whose hue and saturation you want
to modify.

2. In the Layers panel's bottom-left corner, click the "Create New Fill Or
Adjustment Layer" icon.

3. Choose Hue/Saturation from the selection that appears.

4. Sliders for Hue, Saturation, and Lightness will be visible in a properties
window. The entire image's hue can be changed by dragging the Hue slider.

5. In this illustration, the yellows have gone blue and the blues have become
yellow.
6. Use the right-click menu to select the Layers panel's Hue/Saturation
adjustment layer.

7. After a list is displayed, you must choose Create Clipping Mask.

8. Any alterations made to that layer when a Clipping Mask is applied only
affect the layer directly below. Currently, the mountains in the background
are once again normal but the bushes are still blue.
This is so that only the bushes and not the background are present in the layer
that lies directly beneath the hue/saturation layer.
9. Next, adjust the hue of only one layer by dragging the Hue slider. Only the
layer underneath will be impacted by the modification as you move it.

10. This little arrow indicator denotes the presence of a clipping mask on this
layer.
11. The symbol below can be found at the bottom of the Hue/Saturation
properties panel. This can be used to put on and take off the clipping mask.

12. The clipping mask will be released if you click on this (note the icon has
also been removed from the layer). The clipping mask can be used again by
clicking once more.
13. You can also adjust the lightness of one layer by dragging the lightness
slider.

14. Make sure the clipping mask is in place and move the saturation slider in
Photoshop to alter the saturation of a single layer.

15. Modify all three sliders to alter the hue saturation and lightness of one
layer until you achieve a pleasing natural balance.
HOW TO UNLOCK BACKGROUND LAYER
Layers in Photoshop function similarly to distinct translucent sheets that let
you add to and alter images and artwork at various levels. A layer can be
shielded from changes as you work by being locked. A locked layer prevents
editing, deleting, and painting on it. However, you may still drag locked
layers up and down in your stacking order to move them forward or back in
your project—unless it's the chosen background layer.
duplicate the background layer, tweak the newly created layer, and then
combine them.
Alternately, create a new layer or intelligent object and transform the
background to it.
Typically, the background layer in Photoshop is locked in the Layers palette
when you open a picture.
The Locked Layer's Duplication
Many experts replicate the locked background layer and make their
modifications there instead of unlocking the background layer. They can then
discard the new layer while keeping the original if they make a mistake.
v Select Replicate Layer from the context menu when you right-click
the Background layer to duplicate it.
When you're finished editing, combine the two levels by choosing Merge
Visible from the menu icon in the Layers palette's upper right corner.

In the Layers palette, the background layer is always found at the bottom.
Other layers beneath it cannot be moved.
v Getting the Background Layer Unlocked
v To change the background into a fresh, unlocked layer:
v Layer > New > Layer from Background should be chosen.
Select OK after naming the layer.

The background layer in the palette will be swapped out with the new,
unlocked layer.
Background Layer to Smart Object Conversion
Making the locked layer into a Smart Object is an alternative strategy. Select
Convert to Smart Object by selecting the Layers palette's Background layer
from the context menu.

The Background Layer Is Locked, Why?

The backdrop layer is locked since it functions as a painting's canvas.
Everything is built on top of it. Because of this, the backdrop layer does not
allow features like transparency and its contents cannot be moved or deleted.
Similarly, you can only use a background color to fill a selection on a
background layer. Therefore, you must make your modifications in a layer
that isn't locked if you want complete control over how a picture looks.
HOW TO USE QUICK SELECTION TOOL
One of the most useful tools in Photoshop is the Quick Selection Tool. It
allows you to quickly and simply choose any area of an image.
The Quick Selection Tool has its own set of tactics and tips that can help you
get even better results, though, much like other tools. This post will examine
some of the most effective methods for streamlining your Photoshop
workflow with the Quick Selection Tool.

What Is the Quick Selection Tool?

One of the selection tools in Photoshop is the Quick Selection tool.
Photoshop recognizes and chooses the edges when you select an area, saving
you the time of having to manually trace them.
For images with strong contrast and distinct edges, this tool works wonders.
So, where is Photoshop 2020's rapid selection tool? It is located on your
screen's tool panel on the left. The fourth selection should be found below the
Polygonal Lasso Tool. With dotted lines encircling the tip, a paintbrush
should resemble the rapid selection icon.
If you right-click on the icon, you'll also see the object selection tool and the
magic wand in addition to the quick selection tool. Depending on the issue,
they all operate similarly but with differing degrees of precision.
When selecting an object in a picture that has an unusual shape, the rapid
selection tool works wonders. The object selection tool, however, works
better with items that have a consistent shape. Finally, for objects with
numerous nooks and crannies, you must employ the magic wand tool.
How Do You Use Photoshop's Quick Selection Tool?
Let's now go over each step for using the rapid selection tool to select objects.
Remember that the rapid selection tool doesn't always result in a clean cut. So
that you can get better results, we'll also show you how to clean your
selection.

1. Use the Quick Selection Tool to cut off your target.

To keep your computer operating effectively, resize your image to a size that
is manageable. If I'm practicing or playing with an image, I resize it to be
between 2500 and 3000 pixels on the longest side.
As we previously said, there are a few distinct selection tools in Photoshop.
But there's a good reason why this one is named "fast."

To choose a specific portion of the region, select the Quick Selection tool and
move the pointer there.
Around the shape, a line of "marching ants" will manifest. Drag the pointer
around the area to continue adding to it. If things start out a little difficult,
that's okay.
Hold down the Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac) key while dragging the
cursor over the region you want to deselect.
There will be no more marching ants there.
2. Create a layer mask as a fallback
In order to prevent permanently erasing your selection, it is recommended to
deal using layers.
That implies that you can always use the brush tool to show sections of your
image that you have previously hidden.
Reproducing a Layer
In the Layer menu on your screen's lower right, unlock the Layer. Duplicate
Layer can be selected by right-clicking it. A new layer will start to appear.
To conceal it, select the eye icon on the bottom Layer (this hidden lower
Layer is a back-up in case of Photoshop disasters).
Choosing Your Option
Click Layer>Layer Mask>Reveal Selection in the menu at the top of your
screen.
The lightbulb moment will occur when your background vanishes, revealing
the rough cut-out shape you've chosen.

3. Use Select and Mask to Choose Difficult Areas

You must be asking how to improve the accuracy of the rapid selection tool
at this point.
I use the Select and Mask tool to clean up my shot at this stage of the process.
The box with the black and white shape outline is the layer mask; click on it.
Select and Mask can be found at the top of your screen. Make sure you've
clicked on the Quick Selection tool button first if you can't see the button.
The tool's size, hardness, and spacing should be adjusted. Then gradually
move your cursor around the picture's edges.
Depending on what I choose, my Select and Mask tool settings alter. That's
why it requires some trial and error.
The Select and Mask tool is great for hair or borders with plenty of fluff. For
harsher lines, I choose the Brush tool (more about that shortly).

4. Design an Appropriate Background

Without a background prepared, properly using the Quick Selection tool is of
little use. In certain cases, a plain, neutral background in Photoshop is
sufficient.
To ensure the end product is cohesive if you're eager to employ a different
location, you'll need to pay a bit more attention to the process.
It would be ideal if the background lighting matched the choice. It wouldn't
seem false that way.
If your choice has cool lighting, you'll also need to find a background with a
similar color temperature.
You should also pay attention to the light's direction. The illumination in your
background should also be coming from the same side if it's coming from the
left.
Finally, your image's camera angle should coincide with your choice.
If your chosen object was photographed at eye level, you cannot utilize a
background image taken at a 45° angle. People can be confused by even a
slight change in perspective and realize right away that the image is fake.

Background Opening
Verify that the layers in the lower right corner of your screen are in the
correct sequence to make sure Photoshop displays both the backdrop and
your selection. Your selection and layer mask should be placed above your
background.
Click and drag one of the layers up or down to reposition the layers.
Making Background Changes
Use Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw to make edits if the subject and
background photographs appear to be out of sync or uneven. Start with one of
the photographs' color and brightness.
Sometimes altering the luminance and saturation of specific colors also helps.
Try making both shots black and white if the visuals still don't fully match.
However, make sure the shadows, clarity, and contrast are all the same.
You may work with black and grey by converting your image to black and
white. You may better match your choice to the background if color were
removed.
5. Use the Brush Tool to Create a Seamless Effect.
Utilizing the Quick Selection tool without also using the Brush tool is quite
uncommon for me.
Check to see whether you need to conduct a last tidy up of the edges after
your choice is in their new setting.
Select the Brush tool after selecting the layer mask from the layer menu.
Zoom in (ALT+, CMD+) and thoroughly inspect the selection's perimeter.
Brush the cursor gently over any parts you want to reveal or conceal.
To alternately reveal and conceal portions of the image, toggle between the
"Foreground and Background Colors."
Make local adjustments in Photoshop by using the selection tool.
Of course, Photoshop's selection tool isn't simply for removing items from
images. Additionally, you can utilize it to separate things so that you can alter
certain sections.
All you need to do is open an Adjustment Layer after choosing your subject
in the shot.
You can select the characteristics you want to change within the Adjustment
Layer to fix your choices. White Balance, Hue/Saturation, and
Brightness/Contrast are just a few examples of what it might be.
Keep in mind that if you simply need to make little changes locally, you don't
even need to clip out your choices.
Photoshop immediately converts your selection to a layer mask if you select
an adjustment layer. Any modifications you make will then just affect that
region.
If you select Brightness/Contrast, your choice will get brighter or darker as
the Brightness slider is moved. However, anything outside of that choice will
remain unchanged.
What happens, therefore, if your selection appears OK but the rest of the
image need some editing? After then, you may select Select opposite with a
right-click. The remainder of the image will then reflect your changes thanks
to Photoshop, but your selection won't.

HOW TO USE LASSO TOOL

What Is The Best Use For The Lasso Tool?
It is recommended to use the Lasso Tool to make selections along straight
edges with few bends or curves. Since you can only make selections by
dragging your mouse, making an exact selection requires a very steady hand.
Because of this, this tool works best when you need a quick and simple
selecting process. A coffee cup's smooth edges or a selection made around a
rectangular building come to mind.
The Lasso Tool is not the best choice for producing intricate selections
because it draws paths by tracing your cursor's path. Cutting away anything
like tree branches or hair with this equipment would be an awful misery.
Instead, it flourishes in environments with clear, unambiguous edges that are
straightforward to follow.
For tasks where I need to rapidly see how a cut out would appear in another
photo, I frequently utilize the Lasso Tool. The Lasso Tool completes the task
in less than half the time it would take to use a more involved selection
technique like the Pen Tool.
You can always go back and use a more exact selection tool once you have a
general concept of the selection you want.
The Three Different Lasso Tools
The Lasso Tool's capabilities are rather simple and constrained on their own.
Fortunately, Photoshop's three different Lasso Tool kinds make the selection
procedure considerably simpler. You can access each of these tools by
selecting the Lasso Tool option or by using the L key on your computer.
Holding Shift + L will automatically switch between each of these tools.
1. The Lasso Tool

You can utilize the Lasso Tool, which is the most basic version. Simply move
your cursor around your object by clicking on a beginning point in your
canvas to make a path. The Lasso Tool will precisely replicate your mouse
movements all the way back to the beginning. It will then produce a selection
that you can use to make layer masks or to separate the image from its
background.
2. The Polygonal Lasso Tool

The Polygonal Lasso Tool draws straight lines between each mouse click
rather than making a freehand selection. To start your path, click a point
while this tool is selected. To construct a second anchor point, move your
cursor to another location along your edge from here. These two spots will be
automatically connected by a flawlessly straight line using the Polygonal
Lasso Tool. This Lasso Tool is ideal if you need to cut something out that is
box-shaped or has flat sides.

3. Magnetic Lasso Tool

The Magnetic Lasso Tool is the third category of lasso tool. The Magnetic
Lasso Tool is a little more automated than manually choosing the path's
course. The Lasso Path will be automatically snapped to the edge with this
tool as long as you're moving along a clearly defined edge in your image. The
best part is that technique even functions along difficult or irregular edges,
like the leaf below! My preferred Lasso Tool in Photoshop is the Magnetic
Lasso Tool, and I frequently use it to make Lasso selections.
Let's go through each of these tools individually to see how to utilize them in
Photoshop now that you have a general understanding of how they each
function.
Utilizing the Lasso Tool
Press L on your keyboard to open the Lasso Tool, or look for it in your
toolbar. This kind of lasso will be a straightforward emblem like one you
may see in a western film.
Take a quick check at your upper setting bar before you begin to make a
selection and set the desired feather radius. Leave the feather set to 0px for a
lovely, crisp border around your pick. On the other hand, extending the
feather radius to around 20px or 30px will get the desired soft, blurred-out
edge. You must make a decision on this before making your choice, whatever
it may be!
Next, confirm that "new selection" is selected as your selection type by
clicking on the solid-colored square icon.

It's time to make your decision at this point. Drag your cursor down the edge
you wish to pick by clicking somewhere along it. When you use the Lasso
Tool, a trail will be drawn behind your cursor that will serve as your new
selection region.

Till you make a looping return to the beginning of your path, keep following
the edge you want to cut out. Click on your path to complete the Lasso
selection after you've reached the beginning position. To signal a choice, the
road will turn into a line of marching ants.
From here, you have the option of removing the background, including your
selection in a layer mask, or cutting and pasting your selection area into
another image. To see the options you have, simply perform a right-click
inside the Lasso Tool path.

The Polygonal Lasso Tool: How to Use It

The Polygonal Lasso Tool is the best tool to use if you want to chop out an
image with many straight edges. Clicking and holding on the Lasso Tool icon
in your toolbar will bring up the option. The option to use the Polygonal
Lasso Tool will be presented to you in a fly-out menu. Holding Shift + L
allows you to choose between the different Lasso Tools.
To use this tool, only a few parameters are necessary, just like with the
standard Lasso Tool. Just make careful to choose the proper feather radius,
which will determine whether the edge of your choice is sharp or rounded. A
feather of 0 pixels will give you a sharp edge, while one that is higher will
blur the selected area more and more.

Additionally, make sure your selection type is set to "New Selection"; else,
your progress won't be very great.

To start the Polygonal Lasso route, click anywhere along the edge you wish
to remove. The route no longer automatically follows your cursor as it did
before; now, you must click to create anchor points for your path to follow.
All you have to do is stretch out your path and click at any spots when the
direction changes. Once you've circled your object and returned to your
starting location, keep doing this.

Click on your path once you're back at the beginning to finish it and make it a
selection. Like previously, marching ants appear on your Lasso path to
denote an active selection. To examine your available selections, right-click
inside the marching ants from this position.

Simply click on the layer mask icon in your layers panel to delete the
background from your image without causing any harm.

The Magnetic Lasso Tool: How to Use It

The Magnetic Lasso Tool is the most user-friendly (and frequently most
accurate) variation of the Lasso Tool. In your toolbar, this variation of the
Lasso Tool is also concealed. In order to access the Magnetic Lasso in the
fly-out menu, you must click and hold on the Lasso Tool symbol. Shift + L
can also be used to switch between the various Lasso tools.

Before you start making a decision, you'll need to check into a few more
parameters that come with the Magnetic Lasso Tool. Let's examine each of
them individually.
– Width

Press the caps lock key when utilizing this tool to transform your cursor into
a selection brush symbol. The size of this icon will influence how much room
Photoshop has to "discover" an advantage. Increasing the width value (size)
will enable you to be more exact with your route because the Magnetic Lasso
will only lock onto an edge that is found inside the selection brush's radius.
It can be challenging to determine the precise Magnetic Lasso Tool width to
utilize. Fortunately, you can alter the breadth of your selection brush on-the-
fly by using the [or] keys to adjust the width. In this manner, you may adjust
the Magnetic Lasso Tool's width parameters with the greatest degree of
accuracy.

Ideally, you should choose a width that is broad enough to encompass your
boundary and still leave some room for error. Avoid going too far beyond
your edge to prevent Photoshop from locking onto something you don't want
it to. The Magnetic Lasso Tool will be the most accurate if it is kept on the
tiny side.
- Contrast

Photoshop can only discern edges between two objects based on their
differences in color or brightness. For instance, a dark object would contrast
with a white background much more than it would with a black background.
A dark edge would be simple to spot against a light background because the
subject and background are so drastically different in appearance.
Problematically, certain items will differ from the backdrop in a very slight
way in terms of exposure or color, making it more difficult for Photoshop to
determine where the edge actually is. The contrast setting is useful in this
situation.
The contrast value establishes the minimal variance required to identify an
edge in your image. This value is 10% low contrast by default, allowing the
Magnetic Lasso Tool to detect more fine edges.
If the edge of your image is really distinct, boosting your contrast value
would make sure that Photoshop only selects that edge. Leaving the contrast
at 10% is typically more than enough.
- Frequency

You'll note that the Magnetic Lasso Tool generates a set of anchor points for
your route when you use it to make a selection. Simply said, the frequency
option determines how often a new anchor point is formed.
Increasing the frequency value can help the tool be more accurate when
you're working with an edge that's relatively intricate (has lots of bumps or
changing edges). It can be much more precise with edge adjustments because
it has more anchor points to work with.

A low frequency, on the other hand, will result in fewer anchor points along
the Magnetic Lasso selection. On straightforward, straight edges, this can
work effectively, but it will allow space for error along any edges that change
direction. The frequency is set to 57 by default. For the vast majority of
choices, this number is ideal.
In light of the foregoing, it will be beneficial to raise the frequency value if
you notice the Magnetic Lasso Tool lacks edges between anchor points.
- Making Your Magnetic Lasso Choice
Once you are familiar with these three parameters that are specific to the
Magnetic Lasso Tool, move on to adjusting the feather of your choice. Again,
set the feather radius to 0px if you want a sharp edge around your selection.

Last but not least, ensure sure the "New Selection" Lasso type is chosen.

Click on the path's edge and start dragging your cursor along it to make a
selection. To make it simpler to choose your precise edge, hit the caps lock
key to see the selection brush symbol. The Magnetic Lasso Tool will
"magnetically" latch onto the edges of your object as it moves around it.
Bring this back around to where your path began.

When you click the beginning point, your route will change into a selection.
Right-clicking on the inside of your path from here will allow you to choose
your next move.

Simply hide any regions outside of your selection by clicking on the layer
mask button in your layers panel. This will eliminate the background. In this
post, you can read more about the significance of layer masks.

Starting with the Magnetic Lasso Tool is the best approach to make the most
of this technique. You can quickly switch between the conventional lasso and
the polygonal lasso once you've begun to generate your magnetic selection.

You can change between the Magnetic Lasso and the Polygonal Lasso Tool
by clicking while holding down the Alt or Option key. Only until you click to
add another anchor point will this persist. The Magnetic Lasso Tool will then
revert to its previous state. Continue holding the Alt or Option key as you
click and set anchor points all around your object if you wish to use the
Polygonal Lasso.

Holding the Alt or Option key again while clicking and holding down the
mouse will switch to the normal Lasso as the tool. In order to create a
freehand lasso selection, this will switch to the Lasso Tool. You'll return to
using your Magnetic Lasso as soon as you release your grip on the Alt or
Option key.
Keep in mind that using these two straightforward shortcuts will alter how
you use the Lasso Tool. Each lasso selection approach has many drawbacks
on its own. But when you combine them together, you have a fairly good
method for quickly making selections in Photoshop.
Making Your Choice More Specific Using The Lasso Tools
There's a good likelihood that your choices aren't ideal unless you possess
some sort of cyborg talent. Fortunately, you may use the quick shortcuts
listed below to undo any selection you've made with the Lasso Tools.
- Including in Selection
Holding the Shift key, make a fresh selection around the region you wish to
add if you didn't choose enough of your edge and needed to expand it. This
additional area will be included in your now active selection rather than
requiring you to make a completely new one.
You can carry out this procedure as often as necessary to fill the selection
area with anything you require. This shortcut functions regardless of the
Lasso tool version you're using.
- Eliminating From Selection
Simply hold the Alt or Option key while making a secondary selection
around the region you wish to remove in the event that you went past the
edge and want to choose. This will eliminate this area and assist in defining
the proper edge for your selection area.
Once you've made an active selection, you can utilize this shortcut with any
of the three Lasso Tools.
- Correcting Errors Made With Polygonal Lasso And Magnetic Lasso
Tools
There is a unique shortcut to fine-tune the route with the Magnetic and
Polygonal Lasso Tools since they are the only Lasso Tools in Photoshop that
produce individual anchor points.
Simply hit the delete key to have Photoshop remove your most recent anchor
points if you find that you've gone too far or made an anchor point that you
wish to remove. Press the delete key repeatedly to go back to the place you
want to start from.
This little fix can save you a lot of time and keep you from having to start
over.
How to End the Path of Your Lasso Tool
In Photoshop, there are a number different ways to end or finish a lasso path.
The simplest approach is to keep traveling in the same direction until you
reach the beginning. Click on your starting point once you've circled back to
finish the course. This approach gives you complete control from beginning
to end while assisting in making sure you have a clear path.
On the other side, your lasso path can have two separate starting and ending
points. If so, you are free to click wherever along your path to "finish" it. The
start and finish points will be connected with a straight line by Photoshop
automatically.

What happens if you wish to completely remove a lasso selection that you are
already creating? Simply press the Esc key on your keyboard to undo your
lasso route and begin over.
You might have even gone so far as to make your route into a choice. Use the
keyboard shortcut Command + D (Mac) or Control + D (PC) to deselect your
active selection if you wish to remove your current lasso selection. This post
has more information about deselecting layers and selections.
One of Photoshop's most fundamental and user-friendly selection tools is the
Lasso Tool. It feels a lot more natural than other selection techniques in
Photoshop since it enables you to generate freehand selections. The drawback
of this less precise method of path construction is that it leaves greater room
for error. Because of this, the Lasso Tool works best for quick selections or
when you don't need to be highly precise.
 CHAPTER SIX
USING THE MAGIC WAND TOOL
What exactly is a magic wand tool?
You may quickly and easily choose and mask certain areas of an image using
the Photoshop Magic Wand Tool, allowing you to change one area of your
image while maintaining the integrity of other areas. One of the most popular
ways to use this tool is to replace or eliminate the background of a product
photograph, leaving the focus on the product itself.
What can you accomplish with the Magic Wand tool?
The Magic Wand tool uses machine learning to recognize what you might be
trying to choose and then automatically selects that object or portion of your
image. Clicking on the sky will choose the sky; but, clicking on someone's
face will select their full face in a matter of seconds.
How to select and mask in Photoshop with the Magic Wand
Tool
Step 1: Double-click the background layer in your product photo after
opening it.
Open the file containing the image you plan to edit in Photoshop CC18.
Open the Layers palette in Photoshop CC18 while your image is open by
selecting Window > Layers. The Background layer should be emphasized.
Layer > Duplicate Layer should be used to duplicate the Background layer.

You will have the choice to name your copied layer anyway you choose. It
will be simpler for other members of your team to use your file if you give
your layer a name that denotes the backdrop has been removed, such as
"isolated."

Step 2: Disable the background layer

Click the eye symbol located to the left of the image thumbnail in your
Layers palette. As you begin to edit your copied layer, your original
background won't be noticeable and obtrusive.
Step 3: Adjust the Photoshop Magic Wand Tool settings
In the Tools palette on the left of your screen, select the Magic Wand Tool, or
simply type "W." If you can't see the Magic Wand Tool, it can be concealed
by the Quick Selection Tool. In this instance, select the Magic Wand Tool by
clicking and holding the Quick Selection Tool.

Once the Magic Wand Tool is selected, you may change a number of settings
to regulate how much or how little is selected at once.
The settings for modifying the behavior of the Magic Wand Tool are located
at the top of your screen.

Single Selection: When using the Magic Wand Tool for the first time, you
should choose this option.
Add To Selection: When you use the Magic Wand Tool while holding down
SHIFT, you will automatically gain access to this.
Subtract from Selection: By clicking on a portion of your selection, you can
do this to eliminate pixels from it.
Intersect with Selection: This produces a new selection that solely contains
pixels from a prior selection.
Sample Size: You have the option to change your sample size in more recent
versions of Photoshop. The Magic Wand Tool is configured by default to
only select one pixel's color at a time.
Increasing the sample size causes the Magic Wand Tool's selection criterion
to average the colors of the pixels around the sample. The Sample Size has
been left at Point Sample in our example.
Tolerance: The Magic Wand Tool's tolerance can be changed to select a
greater region at once. Generally speaking, you should set your tolerance
level between 15 and 30. The Tolerance in this instance is set to 20.
Step 4: Choose what you want.
The Magic Wand Tool has two options for selecting an image's subject:
select the subject or select the background. Whether or not the background of
your image is primarily one color will affect the technique you utilize.
Step 1: Choose the backdrop
You can use the Magic Wand Tool to select an area of an image where the
background is a solid color or nearly so, and then reverse the selection.
Ensure that the duplicated layer is where you are (it should be highlighted in
the Layers palette).
Use the Magic Wand Tool to click anywhere in the background.
Click on background elements that weren't part of the initial selection while
holding down the SHIFT key, such as the shadows beneath the oranges in the
example.
To make a selection of only the topic, press SHIFT+CTRL+I
(SHIFT+COMMAND+I on a Mac) and then choose inverse.

Method 2: Pick the topic

You can choose your image's subject rather than the background if your
background is multicolored.
The Select Subject option is available in Photoshop CC18. No matter how
complicated the subject is in your shot, this intuitive feature recognizes it and
chooses it.

Here's how to delete the background using Select Subject:

 v Ensure that your duplicate layer is active (it should be highlighted in
the Layers palette).
v Click nowhere on your image while using the Magic Wand Tool,
only to select it.
v At the application's top, select the Select Subject button. You should
now have a general idea of the topic.
At the top of the screen, select Subtract from Selection. Next, select any
portions of the choice that aren't related to the subject by clicking them (such
as the shadows under these tangerines). By doing this, these regions will be
dropped from the choices.
If your background is complex but your subject is primarily one color and
you are using an older version of Photoshop, you can still choose your
subject with the Magic Wand Tool. The same procedures as in Method 1
would be used to choose the subject. The only distinction is that once you've
made your selection, you won't choose the inverse.
Step 5: Clean up the selection's edges
You can find a button labeled "Select and Mask" above the Select Subject
button in the application window. Press this button.
(If you're using an older version of Photoshop, you might need to select >
Refine Edge to use this feature.)

Your window will be changed to a screen with spot-adjustment tools on the

left and a number of global controls on the right.
You'll find a View button at the top of this screen, to the right of the
Properties tab. Make sure On Layers (Y) is selected before clicking this. Now
that the background is completely gone, you can view your topic alone.
The Smooth option under Global Refinements and the Refine Edge Brush
Tool on the left of the screen are the two elements that are most helpful when
attempting to isolate a product image.
Any rough edges on your pick will be smoothed off by dragging the Smooth
slider to the right.

You can spot-select specific regions of your image with the Refine Edge
Brush Tool (accessible by pressing "R"). To use, choose the tool, then paint
over any portions of your selection that still require a little more work.
When you are happy with your decision, select Output to: Layer Mask by
clicking on Output Settings in the lower right corner of your screen. Select
OK.

Using a layer mask, you have now totally separated your subject from its
background.

Step 6: Add a fresh background to your picture.

The new background you want to display behind your product is in a file that
you should open.
Click CTRL+A (COMMAND+A on a Mac) to select the entire image in the
file containing your new background. Press CTRL+C to copy the selection
(COMMAND+C on a Mac).
Reopen the document that contains the subject you just isolated. Select the
Background layer that isn't affected. The new backdrop will then be pasted
into the document by pressing CTRL+V (COMMAND+V on a Mac).
Your masked subject and the original background should both be covered by
a new layer that represents the new background. The original background
layer can now be toggled back to visible.

If your original image was taken against a white background, you can change
the blend mode of your new background layer to Multiply to restore the
shadows from the original photograph.
Toggle the eye icon next to each background to observe how it blends with
your topic by adding more layers.
To display your subject against a solid background, you can also create layers
and fill them with solid colors, such as white.

What Situations Call for the Magic Wand Tool in Product

Photos?
Commercial photographers and online retailers will benefit from learning
how to pick and mask in Photoshop with the Magic Wand Tool because you
can utilize this method with your product images. Here are just a few
situations where it's useful:
Display your product in multiple settings. By placing your product in a
stunning or well-known environment when altering the background, you can
help your clients emotionally connect with your product. Additionally, you
may swap out the background for one that is more appropriate for your
audience by doing this to assist you prepare the image for various target
markets.
Choose your product carefully so that you can change its color or size
without changing the environment in which it was photographed. As a result,
you can display various color variations for your goods without taking
additional images.
In order for your product to stand out on its own in a product photo, remove
the background.
In order to list your products on third-party marketplaces like Amazon or
eBay, create an image with a white background.
HOW TO USE THE MAGNETIC LASSO TOOL
v Select the Magnetic Lasso Tool under Tools. To switch from the
standard lasso cursor to a precision cursor, use Caps Lock.
v Feather, Width, Contrast, and Frequency are available as tool
options.
v Locate an edge that you can drag. To activate the Magnetic Lasso
Tool, click. To choose an object, move your cursor along its edge. To
complete the choices, click.
In Photoshop 5 and later, the Magnetic Lasso tool is one of those features that
is frequently disregarded while selecting something. That is incorrect though
since if you get how it functions, you may use it to accomplish some
remarkable feats.
How to Use the Magnetic Lasso Tool in Adobe Photoshop
The Magnetic Lasso Tool will be useful if the selection you wish to make has
borders that sharply contrast with the pixels around them. Use it as follows.
1.Bring up the image in Photoshop that you want to edit.
2.Out of the Tools menu, choose the Magnetic Lasso Tool. It is listed in a
menu alongside the regular and polygonal lasses.
Note: Alternately, you can cycle through the three tools by pressing the Shift-
L keyboard shortcut.

3.To go from the standard lasso cursor to the precision cursor, which is a
circle with a + in the center, press the Caps Lock key.
4.The Tool Options will alter once the Magnetic Lasso has been chosen. As
follows:
Feather: The value represents the separation between the selection's edge
and the vignette or blurred edge. This is how one softens a selection's edge.
Try to keep the value between 0 and 5 if you are just starting off with this.
When the Caps Lock key is hit, the circle has the specified width. By hitting
the [or] keys, you can enlarge or reduce it. Do not forget that this is not a
brush. Simply expanding the edge detection region is all you are doing.
Contrast: Photoshop identifies edges based on the circle's width.
This parameter establishes how much of a contrast and color difference
should exist between the object and its background. Press the period (.) key to
increase the contrast and the comma (,) key to lower it to adjust the contrast
value instantly.
Periodically, anchor points will fall out of the Lasso as you drag along the
edges. The distance between them is established by this number.

5.Once you've narrowed down your possibilities, choose one by dragging an

edge along. The Magnetic Lasso Tool can be activated by clicking, and you
can then move it along an object's edge to select it. Photoshop will
automatically drop anchor points (square-shaped points) along the path you
take as you move the mouse.

6.Once you return to the location where you began tracing the edge, carry on
along the trail. The pointer will acquire a tiny circle in the lower-right corner
when you return to the spot where you first clicked to indicate that the loop is
over.
When you click to complete your pick, the image will show the path you took
as a dashed line.
Note: You don't have to completely circle the object you're selecting; just
double-click anywhere to have Photoshop draw a straight line from your
beginning point to where you clicked to close the selection. But it's possible
that this won't produce a complete selection.

7.You can now handle the choice just like any other. You can move it, fill it
in, add a stroke around the selected edge, or copy it, among other choices.
Automatically Snaps Magnetic Lasso to Object Edges
The Magnetic Lasso creates selections based on edges and provides a
relatively precise selection that is between 80 and 90 percent accurate, in
contrast to the standard Lasso, which you use to make freehand selections of
an area of a photograph. By identifying the differences in brightness and
color values between the object and its background, the program finds the
edges of an object as you move the mouse. It displays an outline on those
edges as it searches for them and then, like a magnet, adheres to it.
Correct Choices created with the Magnetics Lasso Tool in
Adobe Photoshop
There are several methods for fixing mistakes when using the Magnetic
Lasso.
They consist of:
If the Magnetic Lasso doesn't include the area you desire, add another point
by clicking the mouse.
Remove an Anchor Point: To remove the last anchor that Photoshop placed,
press the Delete or Backspace key.
Alternate Lasso Tools: Click the edge while holding down the Option or Alt
key. If you drag more, the changeover will happen automatically. After
clicking on an edge, releasing the mouse will move you to the Polygon Lasso
tool. Release the Option/Alt key to switch back to the Magnetic Lasso after
changing tools.
A doughnut's edge has been selected, but the doughnut hole needs to be taken
out of the selection. There are a few options available to you for carrying out
this task. The first is to drag around the hole while holding down the Option
or Alt key. By doing so, the subtract from selection mode is activated. When
the cursor displays a minus sign (-), you will know you are in this mode. The
second technique is to click the mouse around the edge of the region that has
to be erased after choosing the Mode in the Tool Options. Close the selection
completely.
Adding to Selections: Choose the Add to Selection mode by selecting it in
the Options toolbar. Be sure to dismiss the selection after clicking around the
edge to be added.
HOW TO USE THE POLYGONAL LASSO TOOL
The Rectangular Marquee Tool and the regular Lasso Tool, both of which we
previously covered in tutorials, are rather similar to one other. Photoshop's
Polygonal Lasso Tool is another of its basic select’s tools. We can simply
create freeform selection outlines using straight-sided polygonal shapes
thanks to it. However, the Polygonal Lasso Tool provides us as much
freedom to move in any direction we need to draw as many sides as we need,
unlike the Rectangular Marquee Tool, which only allows us to draw 4-sided
polygons (rectangles or squares)!
The Polygonal Lasso tool is helpful for producing selections with straight
edges.
By default, the Polygonal Lasso Tool in the Tools panel is concealed below
the regular Lasso Tool. Click on the Lasso Tool to access it, then keep
holding down the mouse button until a fly-out menu displaying the various
tools becomes visible. Pick the Polygonal Lasso Tool from the available
options:
Behind the regular Lasso Tool in the Tools panel is the Polygonal Lasso
Tool.
When you choose the Polygonal Lasso Tool, the default Lasso Tool will be
replaced by it in the Tools panel. When you're ready, click and hold the
Polygonal Lasso Tool, then choose the Lasso Tool from the fly-out menu:

The last of the three lasso tools you chose will be the one that shows up in the
Tools panel. From the fly-out menu, pick the other options.
By continuously clicking the letter L while holding down the Shift key, you
may switch between Photoshop's three lasso tools (Lasso Tool, Polygonal
Lasso Tool, and the Magnetic Lasso Tool, which we'll look at later).
Making Straight-Sided Polygonal Selections
The Polygonal Lasso Tool is similar to the Pen Tool in how it can be used to
create selections with straight sides. To pick an object or area, start by
clicking somewhere near its edge, then let off of the mouse button. This gives
the document a new point, often known as an anchor or fastening point. You
will notice a thin, straight line stretching from your mouse cursor that
resembles a spider weaving a web with one end connected to the anchor point
when you move the Polygonal Lasso Tool away from the point. To add a
second point, click once more and then let go of the mouse button.
With the new point "fastened" to the line, the two points are now connected
by the straight line.
When the line needs to change direction, keep moving around the object or
area and click to add a new point at that location. As you go, secure the line's
end to each new point. Contrary to the default Lasso Tool and several of
Photoshop's other selection tools, you don't have to hold down the mouse
button while you travel from point to point. Simply click to add a point, let go
of the mouse button, move to the following location where the line needs to
turn, and click to add another point:

Add points by clicking on the region or item where you want the line to
change direction.
After circling the item or region, finish the selection by clicking the first point
you added a second time. All of the straight lines in Photoshop will be turned
into a selection outline. When you are sufficiently close to the starting point
to complete the selection, a tiny circle will emerge in the bottom right corner
of the cursor icon. In order to make the circle more visible, I've expanded the
following:

When you are sufficiently close to the starting point to complete the
selection, a tiny circle appears in the bottom right corner of the cursor icon.
The Polygonal Lasso Tool also allows you to quickly and easily close a
selection by performing a double-click anywhere. Photoshop will
automatically draw a straight line from the spot you clicked to your original
beginning point to end the selection.
Here is a picture of a giant, empty billboard that is hanging from a skyscraper
that I have open in Photoshop. I want to put a picture to the billboard, thus I
must first choose it:

an empty billboard.
You might initially assume that the billboard has a rectangular shape, in
which case the Rectangular Marquee Tool should do the trick without the
need for the Polygonal Lasso Tool. Let's attempt it. I'll immediately choose
the Rectangular Marquee Tool by pressing the letter M on my keyboard. I'll
start my selection by clicking on the top left corner of the billboard and
dragging it to the bottom right corner. I'll let go of my mouse button to finish
making the choice:
Using the Rectangular Marquee Tool, try to pick the billboard.
As we can see, even though the billboard would presumably appear
rectangular to us if we were standing directly in front of it, the skewed
perspective of the shot is distorting its shape, and the Rectangular Marquee
Tool ultimately does a fairly poor job of picking it.
For my failed selection outline to be removed, I'll use Ctrl+D (Windows) or
Command+D (Mac). Let's try choosing the billboard with the Polygonal
Lasso Tool this time. As we saw before, I'll select the Polygonal Lasso Tool
from the Tools panel, click in the top-left corner of the billboard, and then let
go of the mouse button to start making my selection. This establishes my
choice's first starting position.
To add a second point, I'll walk to the top right corner and click. Photoshop
draws a thin, straight line connecting the two spots. As I move around the
billboard, I'll click to add a third point in the bottom right corner, then click to
add a fourth point in the bottom left corner, attaching the straight line to each
new point. I'll say it again: I'm not pressing the mouse button all the time. I'm
just clicking once to add a point, then letting go every time:
Using the Polygonal Lasso Tool, click on each of the four corners clockwise,
starting at the top left.
There's no need to start over if you accidentally click to add a point in the
wrong place. To remove the last point you added, simply press the Backspace
(Windows) or Delete (Mac) key on your keyboard. To undo several points in
the reverse order they were added, keep clicking Backspace (Windows) /
Delete (Mac).
I'll click back on the top-left corner of the billboard, where the selection
started, and then let go of the mouse button to finish making my choice.
We can see that we were able to choose the billboard this time around much
more effectively thanks to Photoshop's conversion of all the straight lines
connecting the spots into my selection outline:
The billboard was simple to choose using the Polygonal Lasso Tool.
I'll open the picture I want to add on the billboard now that it is selected:

The image of the next billboard.

I'll quickly select the full image by pressing Ctrl+A (Windows) or
Command+A (Mac), and then Ctrl+C (Windows) or Command+C (Mac) to
copy it to the clipboard. I'll return to my original photo and use the Paste into
command from the Edit menu at the top of the screen to add the image to the
billboard:
Using the Paste Into feature in Photoshop, we can easily paste a picture
into a selection.
With just a little resizing using Photoshop's Free Transform function, the
second image is now directly in the selection and is visible to everyone on the
billboard:

Who wouldn't be ecstatic to appear colossal on a billboard?

Check out our Photoshop tutorial on Inserting An Image Inside Another
Image for a more thorough explanation of how to do this.
Next, we'll examine how the Polygonal Lasso Tool manages something a
little more challenging than a four-sided billboard and what transpires when
we encounter a rounded or curved portion of an item!
The steps are always the same, even if not every object you'll wish to choose
using the Polygonal Lasso Tool will be as straightforward as a four-sided
billboard.
When your selection outline needs to change direction, simply click to add
points along the object at those locations. Then, click again on the selection's
initial starting point to finish it.
Here is a picture of an old structure. I need to choose the sky in the image
because I want to replace the one in it. To do this, I'll need to draw a portion
of my selection around the top and sides of the structure. The Polygonal
Lasso Tool should make it simple because the structure is primarily built of
straight, flat surfaces:

I'll need to select the area around the building's top and sides in order to
select the sky in the picture.
I'll click to set my beginning point and start my selection somewhere along
the left side of the building. Then, I'll move slowly around the building's
perimeter, clicking to add points as I go. By clicking Ctrl++ (Windows) or
Command++ (Mac), I'll slightly zoom in to make it easier to see what I'm
doing. Holding down the spacebar momentarily switches you to the Hand
Tool, which you may use to click and drag the image to scroll it around the
document window. In order to return to the Polygonal Lasso Tool, let go of
the spacebar:
Lock your windows if possible. Building walls present no challenge to the
Polygonal Lasso Tool.
Changing From the Standard Lasso Tool to the Polygonal
Lasso Tool
I run into what seems to be an issue as I travel up the top of the structure.
Since the Polygonal Lasso Tool can only create straight-sided selections, a
portion of the roof's design is really rounded, which is terrible news for the
tool. For situations like this, Photoshop thankfully makes switching between
the Polygonal Lasso Tool and the regular Lasso Tool simple. Simply keep
your Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac) key depressed while dragging with the
mouse.
With the use of the basic Lasso Tool, we can quickly draw around any
rounded or curved regions of an object by momentarily switching to it:
When dragging, hold Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac) to briefly switch to the
normal Lasso Tool.
Release your Alt / Option key first, then your mouse button, once you've
drawn a line along the edge of the rounded or curved surface. Returning to
the Polygonal Lasso Tool, you may move around the object and click to add
more points as you please:

To return to the Polygonal Lasso Tool, release both your mouse button and
your Alt (Windows) / Option (Mac) key.
I'll use the Polygonal Lasso Tool to click into the gray pasteboard area
surrounding the image once I've finished drawing my selection around the
building to make sure I grab all of the edge pixels in the sky along the sides
and top of the image. Press Ctrl+- (Windows) or Command+- (Mac) a few
times to zoom out until the pasteboard area is visible if you can't see it.
Photoshop will only pick out individual pixels in an image, not the
pasteboard:

To make sure you select every edge pixel, it's a good idea to click inside the
pasteboard area surrounding the image.
The sky in the picture is now selected when I click once more on my original
starting point to finalize the selection:

It's time to change the sky.

By hitting Ctrl+Alt+0 (Win) / Command+Option+0, I'm going to zoom back
to the 100% zoom level (Mac). My document has two layers, as can be seen
by looking at the Layers panel. A picture of a cloudy, dark sky is on the
Background layer beneath the image of the building, which is on top:
I've placed the clouds I wish to use in lieu of the sky on a layer beneath the
picture of the structure.
Holding down the Alt (Windows) or Option (Mac) key while clicking the
Layer Mask icon at the bottom of the Layers panel will choose the top layer.
My selection gets changed into a layer mask as a result, and the top layer now
has a layer mask thumbnail. Holding down the Alt/Option keys caused the
layer mask to be inverted, which will make the building (the selected area)
invisible and the sky (the non-selected area) visible. Normally, only the
object or area that was selected would be visible in the document while
everything else would be hidden from view.
A layer mask's black portions are obscured from view in the document. White
spots are still discernible.
The clouds in the image below it in the paper are now visible because the sky
in the building shot has been obscured:

Simply wait a few minutes if you don't like the weather in Photoshop. It will
alter.
A Selection's Removal
The selection outline in the aforementioned example vanished when we
changed it to a layer mask, but ordinarily, you may deselect a selection made
with the Polygonal Lasso Tool by selecting it from the Select menu at the top
of the screen or by pressing the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+D (Win) /
Command+D. (Mac). You may also use the Polygonal Lasso Tool or any
other selection tool in Photoshop by simply clicking anywhere inside the
page.
TYPES OF ERASER TOOLS
Compare the eraser tool to a layer mask or pencil tool to decide which is the
best choice.
Select from Magic Eraser, Background Eraser, and Eraser.
Choose the backdrop color you want.
Pick the brush type and size that you want.
Edges in brush mode are rounded.
 Edges in pencil mode are sharp.
Instead of a circle, square mode is formed like a square.
The speed at which the erasing effect is used depends on flow.
Holding down the cursor, drag it over the desired erasure areas.
Click on the left column in the History panel and choose the Erase to
History option if you want to erase to a saved state.
After covering the fundamentals, let's examine the more intricate and various
ways we may make the most of this tool. We'll go over the features and
options accessible in this article so you can decide which is best for the task
you're working on.
How to Use the Photoshop Eraser Tool
Since Photoshop contains so many tools, it might be difficult to know which
one to use to achieve a certain effect or task. You've probably questioned a
little bit about the tiny eraser in your toolbar after seeing it. Photoshop's
Eraser Tool has some uses, but it also has some drawbacks.

The Eraser, Background Eraser, and Magic Eraser are the three options
available when using the Eraser tool. When utilizing the Pencil tool, an auto-
erase feature is available as well.
In order to assist you start to comprehend which one you might want to
employ, I'm going to highlight the differences between each of them. But it's
crucial to remember that the Eraser tool is destructive. That implies that any
time you use the Eraser tool, your work is irreversible. The only way to get it
back is to repeatedly instruct Photoshop to "Undo." You'll probably have to
start over if you detect your error after you've already saved.
Consider the Eraser tool to be a genuine eraser. In the actual world, if you
wipe something, it's gone.
If you don't want to work destructively, you might be wondering how to get
rid of items from your image that you don't want. It's as easy as using the
Brush tool to mask out the areas you want to hide and applying a layer mask
to the layer you want to change. Using a layer mask will allow you to easily
fix any errors. You can see what is being masked on the layer mask as well.
You can get the same result as using the Eraser tool if you use the standard
brush and a black mask.
At the very least, you should realize by the end of this article that while the
Eraser tool appears to be useful, you can accomplish the same tasks more
quickly and effectively with other tools, such as a layer mask. If you intend to
continue using the Eraser tool, you must duplicate the layer you're working
on in case you need to start over.
Eraser
On the Eraser tool, click.
Choose the backdrop color you want to substitute for the current background
or any locked-transparency layers or backgrounds.
Depending on the effect you want, choose between the brush, pencil, and
block modes. Blocks are square with hard edges, while pencils more closely
resemble drawn lines and brushes have rounded, soft edges.
In the settings toolbar, you must configure the opacity and flow when using
the brush or pencil modes. Opacity describes the degree of erasure you desire
for the pixels. For instance, higher amounts of opacity only partially remove
pixels, whereas lower numbers totally erase them.
Drag the cursor across the areas you want to remove while keeping it down.
In essence, the Eraser tool is a brush. Like with any brush, you can alter the
size, hardness, and spacing. Additionally, you have the option of switching
the mode from Brush to Pencil or Block. The Eraser, however, removes the
undesirable pixels from your image rather than painting on them. Those
pixels have been permanently deleted and may only be restored by selecting
"Undo."
Unless you unlock the background layer, it will appear like you are actually
painting with the background color while you think you are erasing. To
reveal the checkerboard pattern underneath, unlock your layer so that it can
be hidden. I haven't unlocked the layer in the image below, so instead of
seeing the expected checkerboard pattern, we see white.

As soon as I double-click on a layer to unlock it, I can go back and use the
eraser to reveal the checkerboard pattern.

Additionally, if you duplicated the layer you are working on, be careful to
hide the duplicate layer as well or the Eraser won't work. The Eraser tool's
shortcut key is "E."
Background Eraser
1.Select the layer containing the regions you want to remove from the Layers
panel.
2.When the option appears, keep holding down the Eraser tool and select
Background Eraser.
3.Select a brush and alter the size, hardness, angle, roundness, and spacing
settings.
4.Select the Limits mode.
Wherever the sampled color appears beneath the brush, Discontiguous
removes it.
Contiguous eliminates sampling color in related areas.
With Find Edges, related regions that have the sample color are
removed while edges' shapes are preserved.
5.Tolerance level can be chosen by dragging the slider. Compared to low
tolerance, which looks for colors that are extremely similar to the sample
color, high tolerance will delete a larger spectrum of hues.
6.To prevent accidentally removing the foreground colors, choose Protect
Foreground Color.
7.Decide on a sampling strategy
If you choose Continuous, the eraser tool will continuously sample
colors while you are dragging it.
Only the color you first click on will be erased.1
Any spots that contain the background color will be removed by
Background Swatch.
The Eraser tool is distinct from the Background Eraser tool. The tool and
cursor will switch to a circle with a + in the center as soon as you click. By
default, the Background Eraser tool samples the color that lies just beneath
the + in the circle's center. Photoshop will therefore remove all of that color
from the broader circle. Photoshop won't remove the circle unless the small +
touches the area of the image with the different color, even if the circle
extends to a portion of the image you don't wish to remove. I unintentionally
ran over the puppy in the image below with the Background Eraser while
using the +. The puppy will be erased if the + touches him because it is
constantly sampling.

Before the accident, observe how his ears are being erased fairly effectively.
Remember that only one action has really been wiped since I've been clicking
and dragging to remove the items from the image. I'll have to undo
everything I've done up till this point in order to correct the error at the top of
the puppy's head.
Options for Background Erasers

The first choice is to alter the "brush's" size.

You can select whether you want the Background Eraser to operate
continuously, once, or through a swatch using the second option, which
begins with two eyedroppers and a gradient below.
The word "continuous" was used in the dog photo. When attempting to
remove a backdrop with multiple colors, the continuous option performs
really well.
When you click once, the color will be erased as instructed. The color that
Photoshop knows to save and remove when you start rotating the circle
around the image is where the + is when you click.
With the Tools palette's Background color swatch option, you can specify a
background color that the Background Eraser will only remove.
The Limits section is the next one, and it offers the Contiguous,
Discontiguous, and Find Edges options.
Only pixels in close proximity to the pixel beneath the + will be erased by
contiguous. The Contiguous option can be annoying if you need to remove
something that has obstacles, like hair or branches.
Even if they are not in the same region as the +, the Discontiguous option
will remove all pixels that match the color you are erasing.
Find Edges performs exactly what its name implies; it erases up to the edges
that it discovers.
The Background Eraser settings continue with a section called Tolerance.
Simply put, the more variants of the sampled color Photoshop will obliterate,
the greater the Tolerance setting. You'll need a low Tolerance if the color of
your background is comparable to the object you don't want to remove.
Starting lower and working your way up is a solid strategy in any case.
When you choose Protect Foreground Color from the Tools palette,
Photoshop will shield the foreground color from erasure. The Protect
Foreground Color checkbox should be selected if the object you're seeking to
protect is almost identical to the backdrop but somewhat dissimilar in color.

Eraser Magic
v The Magic Eraser tool is selected from the toolbar.
v Select a tolerance number. Low tolerance just erases colors that are
comparable to the one you've chosen, whereas high tolerance erases a
wide range of colors.
v If you want sharp edges, choose Anti-Aliased.
v Depending on whether you want to delete only adjacent pixels or all
similar pixels, choose or deselect Contiguous.
v To view a sample of the color that was wiped from visible layers,
select Sample All Layers.
Select and modify Opacity.
v To delete a portion of the layer, click the desired area.
v The Magic Eraser tool functions similarly to the Magic Wand tool in
that a larger region is selected based on pixel contrast.
Actually, using the Magic Wand tool and then pressing delete is exactly how
the Magic Eraser operates. The Magic Eraser appears to be simple to use.
Simply click the region you wish to delete something from, and Photoshop
will erase all nearby pixels that match the color of your selection.

This is what happened when I used the Magic Eraser and clicked the mouse
once on the red background in the image above. Take note of how the
selection is choppy and how the mug's small red border is still visible. The
coffee mug is shown below in its original form so that you can see all the red
that Photoshop left in.
It should be noted that unless the image is changed to raster, you cannot use
the Eraser tool on Smart Objects.
Pencil Tool with Auto Erase
v Choose hues for the foreground and backdrop.
v Pick the pencil tool by clicking.
v Select the Auto Erase menu item from the toolbar.
v When you wish to paint the background or foreground of an image,
drag the tool over the desired area.
v You can paint the background color over regions that are currently
the foreground color when you utilize the Auto Erase feature of the
Pencil tool.
Remember that the area will be erased and appear as the background color if
the center of the cursor is sitting above a color from the foreground when you
begin dragging the pencil tool across it. However, if the center of the cursor
is over a region that doesn't already have the selected foreground color, the
foreground color will be applied to that region.

HOW TO USE WHITE BALANCE

One of the most fundamental yet challenging components of photography is
white balance. In some instances, you'll need to adjust the white balance in
post-processing even though the white balance you set in-camera may look
good most of the time.
What Effect Does White Balance Have on My Photos?
Your photos' perceived warmth or coolness depends on the white balance. If
you want to brush up on the subject, you should read our comprehensive
guide to white balance here.
In reality, altering the white balance of a photo has multiple effects. It has an
impact on the saturation, flatness, and color cast of an image.
Cast in color
The most significant issue brought on by employing the incorrect white
balance is a color cast in your photograph. Look at the picture below:

The image has a strikingly warm color cast and is practically orange-
monochrome. Even though this is a sunset, I don't mind the image having a
generally warm tone, but this goes too far.
The 8000K in-camera white balance is what I used to take the image up top.
If you haven't read the guide I just provided, 8000K is a white balance setting
that produces "balanced" tones on cloudy days. Instead of a cloudy day, this
one had a golden sunset, which gave the picture an extra warm, orange tone.
Contrarily, have a look at the picture below. Just like in the image above, I
set the white balance at 8000K in this instance. The difference is that they
were taken in various lighting conditions. This time, I captured the
photograph during a clear day:

Correct white balance settings prevent colors from appearing muddy or

dusty.
This time, the warm hue cast is much less prominent, but it is still present. As
a result, the sky, which ought to have a reasonably blue tint, appears
somewhat faded and murky. Additionally, although being intended to be
green, the parakeet has a yellowish hue. If you simply utilize the correct
white balance, you get the following result:
 v Colors are bright when the daylight settings are accurate.
The distinction is plain to see. Even though I didn't change any other settings,
including saturation, the sky looks much better.
Flat Pictures
Images that have a color cast can sometimes appear flat, as you may have
seen in the examples above. For instance, have a look at these images:

Compared to images with true hues, those with a color cast appear
flat.
Only the white balance was altered in this instance; contrast and exposure
were left unchanged. However, the image on the right looks considerably
better and has noticeably deeper shadows.
The right-hand image likewise has better topic separation. For instance, when
there is no color cast, the bird's beak contrasts with the background better.
Saturation
Although many of us enjoy taking pictures during the golden hour, getting
adequately saturated pictures can be challenging. Here, white balance is a
helpful tool.
For illustration, contrast the two pictures below. Use a warmer white balance,
such as 8500K, if you want a look with more saturation. Another option is to
use a lower white balance, such as 6000K, if you want a more subdued
image.

The saturation is affected by white balance.

One image is not superior to the other; rather, they are various artistic
interpretations of your subject. Therefore, you can capture photographs that
as closely as possible reflect your photographic vision by employing white
balance creatively.

White Balance Correction in Photoshop

Using Photoshop, you may change the white balance in a variety of ways. I'll
lead you through the most basic to the most complex.
Photoshop Camera Raw
You may import RAW photographs into Photoshop and do simple
modifications with the Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) plugin. By selecting
"Filter > Camera Raw Filter" in the top menu bar, you may even make
adjustments to non-RAW photographs like JPEGs.
The white balance adjustment, labeled Temperature:, is located towards the
top when you open an image in ACR.

By adjusting the Temperature slider, you can change the white balance.
Additionally, you can use the eyedropper to select a region of the image that
is neutrally gray. Camera Raw will then automatically modify the white
balance (as well as the Tint) to make the region you selected appear gray.
Note that RAW images, TIFFs, PSDs, and other files with little compression
require less effort to alter the white balance. A JPEG may exhibit certain
color issues or compression artifacts if it is adjusted too much.

White Balance Adjustment Automatic Utilizing Curves

In Photoshop, curves are a frequently used tool. Even while you might only
think of the Curves tool as a way to change exposure and contrast, it can also
be used to correct colors and white balance.
First, there is a one-click fix that mostly functions using Curves. Look at
the illustration below:

image with the White Balance setting warmer than it should be

You can use Photoshop to automatically correct a photo's white balance by
following these steps:
v Add a layer of Curves adjustment.
v The Properties tab's right edge should be clicked (marked green in
the screenshot below)
v The Auto Color Correction Options box will display after selecting
Auto Options from the resulting menu.
v Choose from the window's "Find Light & Dark Colors" option
(marked red in the screenshot below)
v Press "OK"

This image demonstrates how well automatic correction works:

Curves Manual White Balance Adjustment is used to automatically fix the
white balance.
Utilizing Curves
For even more control, you can manually change the white balance of an
image using Curves.
Make a Curves adjustment layer the same way you did for the automatic
color correction in the previous step. A drop-down menu will appear where
you can select RGB (the default), Red, Green, or Blue. Choose the Red
option first.

You'll see an RGB dropdown menu when you create a Curves adjustment
(highlighted above in red) (marked in green above)
The tool modifies the selected color (in this case, red) and its complement
when you choose one of the predetermined colors. For instance, blue is
decreased when red is increased.
The reds in the highlights, mid-tones, and shadows need to be lessened
because this image has a warmer color cast. Drag the red line from the right
top edge a little bit downward to do this until the reds look better.

Modification to lessen the reds

In the image above, you can see that the warmer color cast is under control.
However, the image seems green; as a result, reduce the greens as well, just
like you did with the reds, as seen in the illustration below.

Using curves, alter the green channel

The green channel appears better now. The picture appears to still have a
slightly warm tone, though. The image will take on its final tone after a small
amount of blue is added, as illustrated below.
To counteract the image's warmth, add some blue.
The image now appears natural. There is no cast on the whites in the upper
left corner. Now, if you select RGB, the adjustment layer's settings are as
follows.

RGB after adjusting the separate color channels

The original image, an automatic Curves adjustment, and a human Curves
adjustment are all contrasted below.
Auto adjustments often function rather effectively, especially in more recent
Photoshop versions. However, manual changes might be helpful for difficult
photographs, particularly when there are several sources of light with distinct
color casts.
Last but not least, because Curves is an adjustment layer, you may use it with
layer masks to selectively reduce your correction in particular areas of the
image. You have a lot of versatility with this.
Adjusting the camera's white balance.
Including white balance in your camera's settings is an excellent beginning
step. According to photographer Grace Rivera, "with white balance, you're
matching the camera to the light source." The majority of more recent DSLR
cameras include effective automated white balance (AWB) features.
However, manual white balance adjustments are also an option if you wish to
experiment with bespoke settings; you can select a setting based on your light
source. "There is a cloudy day setting if it is cloudy. There is a preset for
shooting in direct sunlight, according to Rivera. You can modify based on
your location. However, I typically use default white balance and then make
adjustments in editing.
When photographing, keep the following things in mind to get proper in-
camera white balance:

Use RAW as your shooting format.

For post-processing versatility, putting your camera to the RAW file mode
prior to shooting is crucial. All of the image data that was captured by your
camera's sensor is preserved in this file format. According to Waltz, "RAW
enables you to effectively change the white balance in post-production."
The lighting should be constant.
Post-production white balance editing will be more challenging if you take
pictures with inconsistent light sources. Waltz advises "trying to get your
light sources to match." "If someone is lighted by an incandescent bulb and is
seated near to a window on a cloudy day, your photo will have one half that
is very warm and the other half that is very chilly. It's challenging to fix that
in post.
To be precise, use a gray card.
A square of material specially tinted at 18 percent gray is called a "gray
card." In situations like product photography or food photography, where
being exact is the ultimate goal, this tool aids you in finding the ideal white
balance. Take a picture with the gray card occupying the entire frame to
determine the white balance using a gray card. Choose the option to set a
custom white balance by selecting your image of the gray card from the
camera's menu. Additionally, you can use images of your gray card to assist
in adjusting the white balance in post-production.
Avoid overcorrecting.
There are times when having a skewed color temperature is advantageous.
"Imagine you're shooting in a restaurant or pub with low lighting. When
writing something like that, you want to convey the right feeling. Instead of
correcting the color of the ambient light, you might wish to preserve it,
advises Rivera. "Or imagine you're taking a sunset photo. The sun's cozy light
is an essential component of the scene. Autocorrecting it would turn
everything blue, so you wouldn't want to do that.

Editing and changing the white balance.

By merely altering the Temperature Slider in Adobe Lightroom, you can
easily adjust the color balance of your images after the fact. The White
Balance (WB) dropdown menu in the Develop panel offers options for a
variety of lighting conditions, similar to the settings on your camera.
Alternatively, you can choose to set a custom white balance by choosing a
neutral tone in your image. A test photo with a gray card would be helpful at
this point since it would serve as your ideal neutral tone. The remaining
photos in your set can then have those edits copied onto them.
COLOUR TEMPERATURES
Different color temperatures result from various lighting conditions.
Even though it's termed "white balance," your photo's colors are all affected
by this setting. Your images will have a chilly color temperature, more of a
blue tone, if you're using natural light from a cloudy sky. With standard
tungsten light bulbs, shooting in artificial incandescent light results in a warm
color cast that appears more yellow or orange. Additionally, taking images
under some kinds of fluorescent lighting may give them a greenish hue.
Moods can be expressed through color temperature differences.
Understanding how white balance can be impacted and using it purposefully
are the two main objectives. You might not always want absolutely accurate
hues, so give a more realistic white a go and see if it improves or detracts
from your image. Photographer Kenton Waltz asserts that a good place to
start is with white balance. Then, Waltz continues, "you can choose how you
want it to feel and adjust from there." I consider the message these images are
attempting to convey as well as how the color temperature will impact it.
Editing color temperature and creating a scenario
The color temperature chart appears as a scale in an image editor, with blue at
one end to make your image appear cooler and yellow at the other to make it
appear warmer. It's one of the easiest settings to change in a photo-editing
program.
How to alter the color temperature in Lightroom in detail
The color temperature is the ideal pro tool for beginners because it is simple
to discover and use, and you can quickly change the atmosphere of your
image by using just one adjustment bar.
1. Launch Lightroom and select Library > Import from File. Select the image
after it displays in your Lightroom Library and choose > Develop. You can
now use the Basic Panel toolbar on the right side to change the color
temperature of your image.
2. The first sliding bar mechanism you will see under the Custom section is
called "Temp," and it is set to 0. You can travel from warmer, more yellowish
tones to +100 and from colder, more blue tones to -100.
3. To save your image, choose File > Export > Save to your selected settings
> Export after selecting your image in the bottom bar.
White balance is a crucial tool for quick edits and color temperature
adjustments, and both Lightroom and Photoshop's Auto features offer it. With
it, you may create balanced, realistic images.
Instructions for adjusting the color temperature in Photoshop
Photoshop, despite being a program for experts, also features simple
adjustment toolbars to support you as you begin your editing journey.
particularly useful when you only want to alter one component of your shot.
1. Select your image in Photoshop by opening the Camera-Raw Filter menu.
2. The toolbar that displays on the right side of the screen has a sliding
temperature bar that you may use to change the temperature of your image
from cool blues to warm yellows.
3. Select File > Save in Photoshop to save your image for subsequent editing.
Click File > Export, save as preferred file type, such as a JPEG, and then
click Export to save your image as a file on your device.
Perhaps you want to add a dramatic and cinematic effect? Color temperature
is one component of color grading photos, which is ideal for this. In addition
to color enhancing techniques like hue, saturation, and brightness, which also
change as the light temperature changes, you may use it in conjunction with
highlights, shadows, and clarity to alter the mood of a picture.
USE OF SQUARE BRUSHES
A square-shaped brush may lend a distinctive look to any project among the
bewildering array of brush tips and styles available in Photoshop. You may
create with square brushes in a boxy manner ideal for any tasks requiring a
pixelated appearance. Although you can import square brush packs, loading
Photoshop's legacy brushes is simpler.
In Photoshop, use the Brush Tool and launch the Brush Preset Panel to have
access to a square brush. Select "Legacy Brushes" by clicking on the gear
icon in the top right corner of this panel. The Legacy Brush folder, which
contains a square brush, may now be found by reopening the Brush Preset
Panel.

Square Brushes in Photoshop: How to Load Them

Photoshop used to provide ready-to-use square brushes, but more recent
versions of the program now require you to manually load the brushes before
using them.
Legacy Brushes is the name of the brush folder that contains square brushes,
and loading the pack makes it simple to use the brushes inside the software.
Otherwise, if you're not satisfied with the Legacy brush selections, you can
download a lot of square brush packs for free from the internet and use them
in Photoshop.
So let's examine the many square brush possibilities and applications.
Using legacy brushes is option one.
Utilizing the Legacy brushes in Photoshop is the simplest method for using
square brushes. You must locate and load these brushes because they are not
always accessible for use. First, make sure the brush tool is turned on.

Remember that the pencil icon will appear in place of the brush icon if you
have been using the pencil tool. In that situation, in order to see the brush tool
option, you must click and hold the symbol.
Right-click on your canvas after selecting the brush tool to display the brush
preset panel. This panel is also accessible from the upper settings bar.
You won't find any square brushes to utilize if you navigate through the list
of brush selections. Don't worry, we can add the square Legacy brushes by
selecting Legacy Brushes from the options button in the top right area.
Click OK in the dialogue box that appears when asked if you want to restore
the Legacy Brushes.

Once more right-clicking your canvas, you will now find the Legacy Brushes
option at the bottom of the list of possible brushes when you scroll down to
view them.
Square Brushes can be found by scrolling after you click to open the
available Legacy brushes. You may view your selections by clicking.

There are 18 distinct square brushes with widths ranging from 1 to 24 pixels.
You can observe a pixellated effect more vividly as the size increases. Try the
20-pixel resolution first.

Now your artwork has a fun pixelated appearance, which is especially

apparent when drawing diagonal lines. What if you want more square-shaped
brush selections than what Photoshop now offers?
Using a free square brush pack is Option 2.
Another option to get access to a range of square brushes is to manually
import the brushes into Photoshop after downloading a free brush pack
online. This is advantageous because it expands your possibilities beyond the
basic Legacy brushes while requiring less work than making your own brush.
The 10 square brush collection by Brusheezy is a fantastic square brush pack
that you can get for free online. Download these brushes first by going to this
website and selecting Free Download before using them in Photoshop. Your
download will start immediately.
First, make sure Photoshop's brush tool (B) is turned on before importing
them.

Next, select the Brush preset panel by clicking the settings icon in the panel's
upper right corner.

Click Import Brushes after that.

Then, locate the.abr file that represents your brushes; it is probably in your
Downloads folder. To import them into Photoshop, keep in mind that the
folder must first be unzipped. Your new brush pack will show up at the
bottom of the list of brushes after you click OK.

Voila! Your imported brushes are now available for usage as you please.
Enjoy using the beautiful brushes in this bundle.
You can quickly adjust the brush size in the brush panel if the brushes appear
to be too big for your canvas.

You just need to do some research to find the other free square brush packs
that are out there. If you need a place to start, I list some of the top websites
in this post where you may find Photoshop brushes.
Making Custom Square Brushes in Photoshop
Using the Rectangular Marquee tool in Photoshop, you can create your own
square-shaped brushes if you truly want to modify the appearance and
behavior of your brushes.
Press M to first choose the Rectangular Marquee tool. Remember that you
must click and hold in order to choose the Rectangular Marquee from the
options if you have previously been using another Marquee tool, such as the
Elliptical Marquee.
Drag while holding Shift to make a consistent square-shaped marquee on
your canvas while the tool is selected. Ensure that the size and form you
create are comparable to the desired size and shape of the brush tip.

By pressing Shift and Delete at the same time, you may now color the
selection. It will show the fill window. Choose Foreground Color from the
drop-down menu next to Contents by clicking on it. Select OK.
You'll notice that the form on your canvas has been filled with the primary
color that your color tab has been set to; mine will be black.

Go to Edit > Define Brush Preset at this point.

Name your brush in the window that displays, then click OK.

To deselect the square on your canvas, press Command/Control + click it.

You can now make use of your brush.

Go to the brush tool and right-click to open the brush preset window so you
can find your new brush.
Your new brush can be found here with the name you specified. To try it out,
click and drag on your canvas.

Therefore, you now have those alternatives whether you want to use the
square brushes that come with Photoshop, gain additional diversity with a
free brush pack from Brusheezy, or just make your own! Your square brushes
will function precisely like your regular brush tip presets once you've added
them to Photoshop.
 CHAPTER SEVEN
HOW TO WORK WITH BRUSHES
You can paint on any layer with the Brush tool, just like you would with a
real paintbrush. Additionally, there will be a variety of settings available to
you, allowing you to tailor it to a variety of circumstances. Once you
understand how to use the Brush tool, you'll realize that many other tools,
including the Eraser and the Spot Healing Brush, employ a set of parameters
that are very similar.
Utilizing the Brush tool
The Brush tool makes it simple to paint in your document. To paint, just click
and drag in the document window after finding and selecting the Brush tool
from the Tools menu. You can always choose the Brush tool by using the B
key on your keyboard.

The Foreground Color, which is the color at the top of the Color Picker Tool,
should be clicked before selecting a new brush color from the dialog box.
The Control panel, which is located near the top of the screen, also allows
you to change the Brush tool's parameters.

Here, you can change a variety of options, including:

Brush Size: In the Control panel, click the Brush Picker drop-down arrow and
then move the Size slider to change the size of the brush. The brush size can
also be swiftly increased or decreased at any moment by pressing the bracket
keys [].
Hardness: From the same drop-down menu, you can change the hardness to
make the brush's edges either harder or softer. The edges of a harsher brush
will be distinct and distinct, whereas the edges of a softer brush will be hazy
and less defined. Because it will help to hide individual brush strokes, we
generally advise setting the hardness to 50% or less.

Brush Tip: The same drop-down menu offers a variety of brush tips to
choose from if you want to produce a distinctive effect. While some of these
are straightforward, others are made to look like actual sketching implements
like pens and markers.

Opacity: By default, your brush's opacity is set to 100%, which means it will
apply the most intensity. However, you can tone down the intensity of your
brush by lowering its opacity.
Other tools that employ Brush settings
As we have explained, several additional tools function in a comparable
manner. For instance, you can click and drag in the document window while
using the Eraser tool to remove portions of the selected layer. From the
Control panel, you may modify the Eraser tool's size, hardness, opacity, and
other features.

HOW TO ERASE LITTLE OBJECTS

Photoshop object removal techniques
Open an image
Any image that you wish to delete an object from can be used in this.
Choose the Object Selection tool by clicking.

This will appear on the screen's left side.

You can delete an object by clicking and dragging it.

The object will be automatically selected in Photoshop.

Click Select
The menu bar contains a link to this.
Click Modify

The alternatives will increase as a result.

Click Expand
A pop-up window will appear for you to widen your selection.
Click OK

Additionally, we increased it to 8 pixels.

Click Edit

It is accessible through the menu bar.

Then select Content-Aware Fill.

This will make the thing disappear from the picture.

 To confirm, press OK.

To further ensure that the image is smooth, you can alter it using the Content-
Aware Fill setting.
That’s it!

The item has been taken out.

HOW TO FINE-TUNE A SELECTION
Open the workspace for Select and Mask.
Use any of the selecting tools to make a first choice. By selecting Select >
Select and Mask or by clicking Select and Mask in the Options menu for any
selection tool, you can access the Select and Mask workspace.
Tip: As an alternative, you can first launch the Select and Mask workspace
and make your initial selection using the selection tools there.
1.Select a view
Pick a view mode from the View menu while in the Select and Mask
workspace.
The Overlay view, for instance, highlights non-chosen areas in red and makes
selected areas transparent. You may adjust the opacity of the red overlay by
dragging the Transparency slider.
2.Employ tools to select and mask.
To tidy up the selection, use the tools in the left-hand panel's Add to
selection and subtract from selection options.
To automatically select based on similar tones and image edges, use
the Quick Selection tool.
For a more accurate selection of soft edges, such as hair or fur, use the
Refine Edge Brush tool.
To place choices where you want them, use the Brush tool.
Make free-form choices using the Lasso tool and straight edges using
the Polygonal Lasso tool.
3.Fine-tune the selection.
To further refine selection borders, use the settings in the Properties panel
located to the right of the Select and Mask workspace.
To make selection edges smoother, for instance, drag the Smooth slider to the
right. To make the edges of the selection’s sharper, move the Contrast slider
to the right. Check Decontaminate Colors and move the Amount slider if you
see an undesirable color fringe at a soft selection boundary.
3.A product of Select and Mask
Select an output method by going to the Output To option in the Properties
panel. In the Layers panel, for instance, if you pick New layer with layer
mask, your selection will be shown as a flexible layer mask on a new layer.
Return to the primary workspace by closing the Select and Mask workspace
by clicking OK.
ADDING OBJECTS OR ITEMS BY CLONING
The Location of the Photoshop's Clone Stamp Tool
The clone stamp is located in the left-side toolbar. For both Mac OS and
Windows, the shortcut for the clone stamp is S.

Use the 'Window' menu to make the tool bar on the left visible if you can't
see it.

All the way down in the

menu, select "Tools."
You will also require the "Clone Source" panel for projects that are more
challenging.
It is also accessible through the 'Window' menu.

Use the Clone Stamp Tool to Remove Unwanted Objects

A fantastic fashion or PR photo could be ruined by flaws or other
distractions. Fortunately, using the clone stamp tool to remove them is
simple.
The clone stamp is capable of erasing everything, including cables,
blemishes, unwelcome hair, and even humans. By cloning pixels from
another area of the image, it does this.
Imagine that I wish to take the sandals worn by the man in the picture off of
an Indian beach. Using the clone stamp tool, I'll demonstrate how to
accomplish it.

Step 1: Open the image and enlarge it.

Zoom in on the region you want to work with in the photo you want to edit.
You can still see what's happening because it's not too close.
In the tool bar on the left, select the clone stamp tool.
Always make a copy of the background layer before you begin. In this
manner, you may always access the original image. Duplicate Layer can be
chosen by right-clicking on the background layer.

Step 2: Pick a source for the clone

Select a gentle brush. Set the clone stamp's size so that it will cover the item
you want to erase. Learning how hard and large your brush should be
requiring some practice.
For smooth edges, a medium soft brush setting is a good place to start.
Locate the region you wish to extract pixels from with the cursor. I need sand
in this situation. To confirm your source pixels, use Alt-click. Crosshairs will
appear in place of the cursor.
When you click, the pointer will shift to display the cloned pixels.

Step 3: Cover the item you wish to remove with paint.

Start painting over the item you want to eliminate at this point. Make sure it
is not immediately apparent that you are copying another portion of the
picture.
Return to clone additional pixels and continue painting if it is obvious.
Continue doing this until everything appears natural. In Photoshop, utilize
undo if you wish to take a few steps back. Ctrl + Z in Windows or Cmd + Z
in Mac OS.
You need to keep an eye out for trends. Patterns will reveal that you have
removed an item and cloned pixels.

To make the cloning appear natural, avoid patterns.

When attempting to steer clear of patterns, the clone source panel is helpful.
In order to make your clone appear more realistic, use the two mirror buttons.
The pixels you paint over the undesirable object will be mirrored by doing
this. The outcome will appear better.

It will also be beneficial to experiment with the brush's opacity. To achieve

the greatest results, always attempt to combine various clone sources and
opacity settings.
The clone stamp's edges must be as smooth as possible.

Using Photoshop's Clone Stamp Tool, remove skin imperfections

Here is another method for using Photoshop's clone stamp tool. It is the ideal
tool for erasing skin flaws.
I'll demonstrate a special method for cleaning up flaws while maintaining a
natural appearance.
This man's face has several spots that I will be removing.
First, open the image and make a copy of the background layer.

Duplicate the
background layer after opening the image. Right-click, then choose
"Duplicate Layer..."

Now use the clone stamp to close in on the region with the skin flaws you
want to erase.
Now is a great time to fully zoom in.
Step 2: Pick a source for the clone
Repetition of the example's "Step 2" This time, choose a region of the skin
that resembles the area with flaws.
3. Choose the brush mode.
This is what makes it a great method for removing skin flaws. It enables you
to eliminate a specific detail by targeting it.
Set the "Lighten" brush mode. Now, only skin tones darker than the clone
source selection will be affected by the clone stamp.
In this instance, it will just change the darker mole and lighten it to match the
surrounding skin. The remainder of the skin will not be affected.

To get the opposite result, set the brush mode to "Darken."

I prefer using this method to get rid of skin blemishes or wrinkles. You can
target particular skin areas by switching the brush mode to "Lighten" or
"Darken."
The outcome appears really organic.
Step 4: Cover up the flaw with paint
The flaw is covered with one or two coats of paint.
Conclusion
Photoshop's clone stamp requires practice to get the hang of, but the effort is
well worth it. In contrast to the healing brush tool, it won't merge pixels. You
have total control over this.
Start with simple Photoshop tasks like erasing specks of dust or minor
cosmetic flaws.
You can then advance to eliminating things or even persons once you've
mastered this. When you believe you are finished, always keep an eye out for
patterns!
Patterns reveal the removal of an object, and they also appear unattractive
and out of place.
Use the clone stamp sparingly and just for specific kinds of photography. If
you're taking photos for a photojournalist or documentary project, don't
remove any things. It simply isn't done.
HOW TO USE COLOR IN THE FOREGROUND AND
BACKGROUND
Understanding the colors of the foreground and background
The Foreground and Background colors, which can be found near the bottom
of the toolbox, are how Photoshop recognizes the main color of your painting
as well as the color it applies to the Background layer. The color applied to
the document will be the foreground color when you choose any of
Photoshop's painting or drawing tools—that is what it does. As a result, it's
also known as Photoshop's active color. The main purpose of the Background
color, which has multiple uses, is to tell Photoshop how to handle erasing on
the Background layer. By default, pixels that are erased from a Photoshop
layer are turned into transparency.
However, something unusual occurs when you use the eraser tool on the
Background. The Background replaces the deleted pixels with the current
background color because it does not support transparency.
Alter the background and foreground colors that are active.
To alter the foreground or background colors that are now active, try one of
the following methods:
To alter the foreground color of the active document, click anywhere in the
document after selecting the Eyedropper tool from the toolbar.
To change the backdrop color, click while holding down the Alt (Windows)
or Option (Mac) key.

In the Swatches window, click a color swatch to alter the foreground color.
Click while continuing to hold down the Ctrl (Windows) or cmd.jpg (Mac)
key to alter the background color.
To select the color's destination, click either the Foreground or Background
thumbnail. In the Color panel, add a new color.

To access the Color Picker dialog box, click either the Foreground or
Background Color box, then choose a color or input a color value before
clicking OK.

Use the default settings and change the background and foreground colors.
To return the foreground and background colors to black and white, simply
click the Default Foreground and Background Colors button.
To change the colors that are currently being used, click Switch Foreground
and Background Colors.
NOTE: To return the foreground and background to their original black and
white states, press D. To change the current colors, press
The Color Picker's color palette can be added to the Swatches panel. To add a
color to the Swatches panel, open the Color Picker dialog box, choose the
color, click Add to Swatches, enter a name for the color, and then click OK.
Choosing Colors
When choosing a color in Windows, you can utilize the Color dialog box,
which shows standard and custom color squares as well as a color matrix that
includes every color in the spectrum. To specify a color, you can input RGB
values for hue, saturation, and luminance (also known as brightness). Hue is a
pure hue (one without tint or shade); the color's designation (red, green, etc.)
is determined by where it falls on the color wheel. The amount of white in a
color is measured by its saturation. Less saturated colors are more like
washed-out pastels; fully saturated colors have vibrant tones. Luminosity is a
measurement of the ratio of black to other colors.
A very vivid hue has little to no black in it. The color matrix box's pointer
may be moved horizontally to alter the hue; it can be moved vertically to
change the saturation; and it can be moved to the right to modify the
luminosity. On a Macintosh, you click a color mode and use its controls to
choose a color. By picking RGB Sliders from the pop-up menu, selecting the
color sliders at the top of the dialog box, and dragging the Red, Green, and
Blue sliders, you can choose RGB values. Alternately, you can choose a color
by entering values (color numbers). By picking Color Sliders or HSB Sliders
and dragging the sliders to the desired values or entering your own, you can
choose the hue, saturation, and brightness (or luminosity) values.
HOW TO EDIT TEXT
Any design needs typography, and if you're using Adobe Photoshop to create
your work, the text tool is where it all begins. The process of adding,
changing, and altering text is quite straightforward and may introduce a
budding graphic designer to a world of fantastic design.
How to Add Text in Photoshop with Adobe
Use the keyboard shortcut T or the Text tool button from the menu. Once
you've done that, a cursor ought to appear.

Start typing after clicking the canvas where you wish your text to appear.
How to Insert Paragraphs in Photoshop
Use the keyboard shortcut T or the Text tool button from the menu. Once
you've done that, a cursor ought to appear.
Draw a bounding box to specify the area of your text's appearance on the
canvas by clicking and dragging there.

After that, you can begin entering in your text area.

By clicking and dragging any of the anchor points, you can change the text
box's size. Your cursor should change into arrows as soon as you hover over
them.
How to Edit Text in Photoshop with Adobe
The greatest Photoshop typefaces to utilize should be chosen after the text
has been put to complement your design.

The menu at the top of the screen

lets you select all of the important features, such as typeface, weight, and
size, while the text tool is still active. You can choose anything you want by
using the dropdown menus. The text's color and justification are also options.

If you're using Adobe Photoshop CC, you can also access these settings
through the properties panel:
For the panel to appear, select Window > Properties.
Choose the text layer you want to alter.
All of the text options mentioned above should be visible in the properties
panel once the layer has been selected.
Open the Character panel by selecting Window > Character to access even
more features and settings.
The same parameters mentioned above are accessible here, in addition to a
few others. You may alter the leading (the distance between lines of text) and
kerning (the distance between characters), change the text's case with the
press of a button from all caps to small caps, and more.

Photoshop won't let you change text, most likely because your layer is
locked. In the Layers panel, choose the layer you want to unlock, then click
the lock icon. The text contained in that layer can then be edited.
In Adobe Photoshop, how to Change and Move Text
There are two ways to retrieve and modify already written material. Simple
steps to take are as follows:
Utilize the keyboard shortcut T to select the Text tool or choose it from the
Tools panel.
On your canvas, click anywhere directly on the text that you wish to change.
The layers panel must be open for the second technique, but the Text tool
need not be selected:
By selecting Window > Layers, you may access your layers panel.
Find the text you wish to change in the list of layers in the Layers panel, then
double-click the giant T button. This will make every word in that layer of
text stand out.
Then you can pick, remove, or add more text by clicking your pointer within
that text.

Follow these steps to move your text:

Utilize the keyboard shortcut V to select the Move tool from the Tools panel.
To move the text on your canvas, click right on it and hold down the mouse
button while dragging.
Text and Image Combination Is Simpler Than You Might Think
Photoshop offers several methods for adding text to your images, as
demonstrated above. Text styling goes far beyond simply adding text; with a
few simple clicks, you can add a variety of effects and color hues to your
text.
It is worthwhile to learn some of the most helpful Photoshop tips and
techniques if Photoshop is your go-to picture editor. This should enable you
to maximize the use of Photoshop.
HOW TO ADD A BUILT-IN CUSTOM SHAPE
Create a path with the Pen Tool to specify the shape's boundaries in
Photoshop to create a bespoke shape. After finishing the path, select Edit >
Define Custom Form to convert the path into a shape. You may now access
your own shape in the custom shape tool (U).
Now, as previously indicated, you can design a custom shape from an
existing image or make your own path. So that you may start creating unique
shapes from any moment, let's go over both methods.
Making A Custom Shape Out Of An Image
It is simple to make a bespoke shape from an existing image.
For this, images with few colors—like a black outline and a colorful fill—
work nicely. In the alternative, a silhouette can be just as effective if you
want the custom shape to be the silhouette's shape.
For this example, I'll use a yellow and black smiley face and transform the
black outline into my unique shape.
Open Photoshop once you've found an appropriate image. Your image must
have sharp edges, no pixelation, and colors that are easily distinguished, like
the black in the smiling face. To make the selection, you can utilize any
Quick Selection Tool. However, the simplest approach for this is to use the
color range method.
Go to Select > Color Range to choose the primary color.

By clicking on the desired color in the Color Range dialog box that appears,
you can choose it. In this instance, I chose the graphic's black and white
colors by clicking the black edge.
There are options for color ranges in the Select dropdown menu. It will
quickly choose the proper color range because my image just uses three
colors. Select Shadows from the drop-down menu if the only dark portions of
your image are the ones you are making into a custom form.
The selected area will then appear in the preview box.

For additional colors, you can select particular color options or use the
eyedropper to select the color directly from your image. It might not be as
successful as choosing that color alone if your color is comparable to another
color.

Your color range can be edited more precisely after you've chosen it.
Using the Range slider, you can expand or contract your choices of colors
and tones that are similar. You won't need to have a very wide range if your
chosen color, like mine, is significantly different from the other colors in the
image.
To choose from a smaller or larger range of tones, move the slider to the left
or right, respectively.

Next, modify the Fuzziness slider to modify the tolerance for the colors that
will be included in your selection.

The image shouldn't be reversed is the final thing to check in the Color Range
dialog box. Your image is shown in grayscale in the preview box. Your
bespoke shape will be anything that is white.
If you want to reverse the selection and create a unique form by excluding
your specified area, tick the Invert box.

Your bespoke shape will be created without consideration to anything in

black.

Click OK once you're satisfied with your settings.

The sampled colors are now the active selection in your image. The hue of
everything chosen will be the same. Everything in my image that is black has
marching ants surrounding it to demonstrate that it has been chosen.

We must now open the Paths panel in order to generate a path from the
selection. Select Window > Paths.
You may switch between the two by opening the routes panel where the
layers panel was. The Paths panel is currently empty.

Choose Make work path from selection from the Paths panel's bottom.
This replaces the marching ants surrounding your chosen hue with blue
routes and anchor points in their place.
The Work Path from your image is now displayed in the Paths section.

By selecting Edit > Define Custom Shape, you can now turn this path into a
shape.
In the dialog box, give your new custom shape a name, then click OK.

To view all the shape tool choices, locate the Shape Tool (U) on your toolbar
and hold it down. The Custom Shape Tool should be chosen.

You can select which shape is utilized by the Custom Shape Tool in the
Options box. Photoshop already has a collection of preset shapes, but now
your unique shape is included.
To access the shape library, click the downward pointing arrow next to the
default shape in the Options bar.

There are many different types of existing shapes. You'll find your most
recent custom form towards the bottom.
Choose the shape that you want. Set the Fill and Stroke colors in the Options
tab.

Click on the canvas and drag out to create the shape you want. Press Shift
and move the Custom Shape Tool to the desired size to restrict the
proportions.

Each brand-new shape will show up in a separate layer.

How to Convert a Path into a Custom Shape
When opposed to using a readymade image, employing paths to generate a
bespoke shape gives you more customization choices.
Choose the Pen Tool to get started (P).

Pick Path from the dropdown menu in the Options bar.

You can draw any shape on the canvas by using the Pen Tool with the Path
setting. As long as you finish the shape and connect the last anchor points,
you can use the Pen Tool as you normally would to add curves or draw
straight lines.
When you are satisfied with the shape of your path, select Shape from the
Options menu.
With a stroke and fill, this transforms your route into a solid shape.

Go back to Edit > Define Custom Shape to convert your custom path into a
custom shape.
After giving your custom shape a name in the Shape Name dialog box, click
OK.

You have now converted a path into a unique shape. Go to the Form Tool (U)
and select the Custom Shape Tool to locate and use your new custom shape.
Your most recently used form will automatically show up in the Options bar.
To access the shape library, click the downward pointing arrow adjacent to
the selected shape. The last item on the list will be your new custom form.

A custom shape should be chosen.

Click and drag your mouse to the correct size to draw the shape on your
canvas. Holding Shift while dragging will keep the proportions in check. In
the Options bar, you can alter the Fill and Stroke colors.
HOW TO FORM A GRAPHIC SHAPE
The foundation of any Photoshop design are layers. Start this layered design
by adding one image to another and adding a new layer for the original
artwork. You'll learn the fundamentals of dealing with layers along the way
and get familiarity with the Layers panel.
1.Utilize layer masks to combine images
The most adaptable method of combining photos is through layer masks. In
order to show what is on the layers below, a layer mask conceals a portion of
the layer. In this design, layer masks may be used to progressively
incorporate artwork into the rest of the composition by replacing a plain sky
in one image with dramatic clouds from another.
2.Add effects and text.
Give your design some text. The text can then be enhanced with imaginative
layer effects for a distinct appearance. Discover how to use Type layers and
use Typekit to access a vast collection of fascinating fonts.
3.Put vector graphics in
Photoshop is not only used for photos. By adding a logo created in Adobe
Illustrator and creating bespoke shapes in Photoshop, you can advance your
design. These are vector graphics, which allow for unlimited scaling and
editing.
4.Save and export the design
In order to preserve the layers and effects for next editing, save your design
in PSD format. After that, store or export copies for various purposes. Use
Photoshop's Export tools to export all or a portion of the design in web-
friendly formats, then save a copy as a PDF to share with others.
HOW TO ADD A TEXTURE TO A PHOTO
Your images gain depth and a tactile quality thanks to textures. They can give
an ordinary shot visual interest and make your pictures stand out on the page.
Texture may be easily added with Photoshop. The opportunities for creativity
are limitless once you understand these four processes.
Define a texture
Images that mix in with the texture overlays are your images. The texture
image frequently simply has a finely detailed pattern and lacks a subject. An
image with a texture emphasizes the tactile aspects of our environment. They
could be glossy, furry, rough, or smooth. They may be purely abstract or have
a clearly defined subject. The opportunities are all around you once you start
noticing them.
Files for texture overlays are simple to locate. There are countless alternatives
when searching stock photos websites like Dreamstime. Many of these are
available for free.
Furthermore, you can create your own texture files. Natural objects like a
piece of driftwood or a flower's pedals have textures. Graffiti-covered walls,
rusting fences, and concrete sidewalks are examples of textures. Get near by
utilizing your macro lens. Find abstract patterns that are difficult for the
human eye to see.
Numerous smartphone applications use fractal generators or pattern
generators to produce vibrant patterns. Additionally, you can make backdrops
from pre-existing photographs by using one of the various Photoshop filters.

Fractal generator-produced pattern.

How to Apply Texture in Photoshop You will need a texture image and a
photo in order to add texture in Photoshop. If the texture file is smaller than
your primary image, do not be concerned. It will be resized. Any image can
serve as your main focus. Images with some space around the subject and
that are not already overly busy work well with textures.
Under this bridge, the sunrise was a tad monotonous. The image will stand
out if a texture overlay is applied.

Step 1: Open Images in Photoshop

Activate Photoshop and open both the texture and the primary image.
Highlight both image files if you're using Lightroom, then select Photo > Edit
In > Open as Layers in Photoshop. One Photoshop document with two layers
will be opened. Your primary image is on one layer, and the texture is on the
other. Give the texture layer the name "Texture." If it is not already there,
move your texture layer in the Layers panel above your primary image.

The opening of two pictures as layers in Photoshop is demonstrated in a

screenshot of the Lightroom workspace.
 Go to the Windows drop-down menu if you
can't see the Layers panel in the workspace's lower right-hand column.
Choosing Windows > Layers (or F7).

Photoshop's layers panel.

Move the texture layer above the primary image.
Open your primary image first if you want to open files directly in
Photoshop. Either right-click the image and choose to open it in Photoshop.
Alternately, you can launch Photoshop first, then choose File > Open and
find it. The majority of picture files and pdfs can be opened in Photoshop.
Create a new blank layer after your main image has been opened. Use the
new layer icon at the Layers panel's bottom or go to Layer > New > Layer.
This appears to be a rectangle with the plus symbol. Change the layer's name
to "Texture," then click OK. Drag the texture file into Photoshop after finding
it. Onto the empty layer will be copied the texture. The texture must then be
resized to fit over your image layer in the following step.
Photoshop's layers panel. Make a new, empty layer and give it the name
"Textures."
Step 2: Texture Layer Resize
Go to the Edit drop-down menu and select the texture layer. (Ctrl or T) Select
Edit > Free Transform. Once the texture has covered your image layer, drag
the corners and edges. If you drag while holding down the shift key, you may
move each edge on its own. Hit Return or Enter, or click the checkbox at the
top of the workspace.

Using the Free Transform tool and resizing the texture layer are demonstrated
in this screenshot of the Photoshop workspace.
For a different result, try rotating the texture layer as well. Select Edit >
Transform > 90-degree Clockwise Rotation. Alternatively, launch Free
Transform and place your cursor near a corner. The pointer will then
transform to a double-arrowed arc. To rotate the picture, click and drag the
corners in any direction.

Screenshot of the layer being rotated in Photoshop's workspace.

Resize the image till the texture layer obscures the primary one. The layers
must then be blended. The layers will be combined and your main image will
become visible.
Step 3: Alternate the Blending Mode
Various ways for the layers to interact are through blending modes. Near the
top of the Layers panel are the blend modes. The blending mode drop-down
menu's default setting is Normal. The "best" blending mode does not exist.
Popular blend modes for applying textures are Lighten, Overlay, and Soft
Light. The way your image changes depends on the mix mode you choose,
though. Certain blend options allow more of your primary image to shine
through than others. Someone else might alter the colors of your photograph.
Screenshot of the Layers panel demonstrating the drop-down menu for
blending modes.

Compare the Soft Light, Screen, and Darker Color mixing modes.
Don't obsess about the small nuances. Choose a blending mode you enjoy.
The next step is to adjust how much of the texture is visible.
Step 4: Fine-tune the Texture Overlay
The texture overlay can be adjusted so that it only appears where you want it
to. Most of the time, we want the texture to be visible without taking over the
main image. Lowering the texture layer's opacity should be done first. The
opacity slider at the top of the Layers panel should be selected after clicking
on the texture layer. No proper opacity exists. Set the opacity to 50% if you
can. When you feel the equilibrium, add more or less openness.

image of the Layers panel. I used 10% opacity and the darker color blending
setting for this image.
Parts of your main image can also have their texture lightened or removed.
For instance, I frequently erase or brighten the texture on the face when my
primary image includes a person. Start by making a layer mask. Layer >
Layer Mask > Reveal All should be selected after clicking the texture layer.
Alternately, click the layer mask icon at the layer panel's base. This appears
to be a circle inside of a rectangle.
Right now, a white rectangle ought to be visible next to your texture. Toggle
the white layer mask on.
Layers panel in a screenshot with a layer mask. The layer mask for the
selected layer is created by clicking the symbol underneath the Layers panel.
Choose the paintbrush tool, then set the color to black. Use a soft paintbrush
with an opacity setting of 40–50%. Overpaint the areas where you wish to get
rid of the texture. As you paint, you'll notice that black is appearing on the
white layer mask. The texture layer is concealed by black. Change to a white
paintbrush and paint the texture back in if you make a mistake and wish to
add it to the area again. White makes a layer visible. You can soften the
roughness of a surface without erasing it entirely by applying paint with a
low level of opacity.
Layers panel in a screenshot with a layer mask. Black conceals texture. The
texture is made paler by gray.
Texturing in layers
Add additional textures to your main image to enhance the texture effect.
Some elements of your image can have a texture layer added to them, while
other elements can have a different texture. One layer could be used for the
background and another for a foreground component, for example.
I included a texture of water waves in this illustration. More texture was
added as a result, especially in the sky.
CONCLUSION
The amount of visual appeal you can produce using textures is limitless. In
Photoshop, adding texture is simple. Even a faint texture can add interest to a
picture. The observer might not even recognize the steps you took to create a
rich appearance.
The textures seem distinctive because to the blend mode. The blending mode
can be altered while using the same texture on numerous distinct photos.
Every time, the outcomes will be unique. This creates limitless options along
with the capacity to layer textures. Your photographs might appear to be
printed on silk or paper by using textures. You can get a vintage, fading
appearance or a glossy, modern result. Although applying textures is simple,
there are countless creative options.
 CHAPTER EIGHT
USING SPOT HEALING TOOL
We delve deeply into the Spot Healing Brush tool in this article. The most
straightforward tool is also the most effective. Photoshop only need one click
to complete the process. You can use the Spot Healing Brush and the Healing
Brush to remove minor flaws from your shot. Use the Patch tool if you need
to remove a larger object.
Healing Brush and Clone Stamp Tool vs Spot
Healing Brush
In Adobe Photoshop, it is simple to mix up the Spot Healing Brush and the
regular Healing Brush tools. Even the icons are alike. The toolbar contains
the Spot Healing Brush. It can be nestled within of other tools like the
Content-Aware Move tool, Patch, and the Healing Brush. A fly-out menu
appears when you select one of these tools.

An options bar shows above your image when you choose the Spot Healing
Brush tool. You have control over the Spot Healing Brush type, blending
mode, and brush size and hardness. Additionally, you can choose a brush
angle and sample all layers.

Pixels in your image are replaced by the Healing Brush and the Spot Healing
Brush. Find the trouble spot in your shot first. This might be a zit, a speck of
dust, or some trash. The way the program selects new pixels to replace the
problematic area is where the tools differ from one another. You can see the
new pixels with the Healing Brush. While holding down the Option key,
click on a clear space. This instructs Photoshop to substitute these pixels with
the problematic ones. Photoshop utilizes an algorithm to determine the best
pixels to use when using the Spot Healing Brush. Photoshop combines the
fresh and ancient pixels using both healing brushes. The healing brushes are
similar to the clone stamp tool.
However, Photoshop does not seamlessly patch together the new and old
pixels.
Utilizing the Healing Brush could give you the impression that you have
more control. However, Photoshop can look through your image pixel by
pixel to identify precise replacements. These might be superior to the ones
you pick.
The Spot Healing Brush: How to Use It
Small objects or imperfections can be removed with the Spot Healing Brush.
Acne or dust stains in the sky are examples of blemishes. Trash or electricity
lines are examples of small objects. We'll begin by eliminating some dust
stains.
Step 1: Create a Blank Layer
You may add a new layer by clicking the plus symbol (+) next to the layers
panel or by pressing the shift key while choosing Layer > New > Layer from
the Layer drop-down menu. Give this layer the name "Spot Healing." Your
original photo is protected by healing on an additional layer. To view your
original image, toggle the Spot Healing layer off.
By clicking the + button or choosing New > Layer from the Layers drop-
down menu, a new layer can be created.
Step 2: Zoom In
When you zoom in, the spot's edges are easier to see. If you enlarge the
image, you are also less likely to miss any details. To use the magnifying
glass, select it. After that, keep clicking on the screen until you can clearly
see where repairs are needed.
Pressing the Command key and the + sign will also zoom in.
Click Command - or Command 0 to go back to the image in its entirety.

To more easily see the issue, zoom in. Dust speck circled to emphasize it.
Step 3: decide on a spot-healing brush.
From the Photoshop toolbar, pick the Spot Healing brush. Make sure to
choose Spot Healing rather than Healing when choosing your brush. I'm
going to clear up the sky's specks of dust in this picture.

use the toolbar's Spot Healing Brush to fix a spot.

Step 4: Brush Size for Spot Healing
In your workspace, the Spot Healing Brush tool appears as a circle. You can
eliminate a spot by moving the circle over it. The Spot Healing Brush should
then be slightly bigger than the spot. The Size option is located in the Options
bar. On the fly-out menu, click. To make the brush smaller or larger, move
the Size slider to the left or right. Using the bracket keys [, you may also alter
the brush's size. The brush is made smaller with the left bracket key. The
brush is made bigger by using the right bracket key.
Using the menu on the settings bar, size the brush so that it is slightly larger
than the spot.
You can modify the brush's softness in the brush menu. The edges are
softened by a gentle brush. The edges will be sharp and obvious with a
stronger brush. Typically, a gentler brush produces better results.
Step 5: Select the Type of Brush
There are three different kinds of spot healing brushes: proximity match,
create texture, and content-aware. The most recent addition to the group is
Content-Aware. Photoshop analyzes your image to determine the appropriate
content to utilize. Photoshop searches the pixels just outside the Spot Healing
Brush circle for replacement pixels when using Proximity Match.
Photoshop creates a pattern from the pixels surrounding the region you want
to replace when you choose the Create Texture option. The finest outcomes
will typically come from content-aware. However, if you don't obtain the
outcomes you want, consider utilizing one of the other types.

I had the best results when I used Content-Aware to remove the rock. The
water now has artifacts from Create Texture. No change was made by
proximity match.

Step 6: Check the box for Sample All Layers

Sample All Layers should be checked. The backdrop layer will be sampled
by the tool. By unchecking the box, sampling is only allowed for the chosen
layer. The layer that is now chosen is empty.

the box marked "Sample All Layers"

Step 7: Eliminate Spot
Be careful to choose the Spot Healing layer. On the area you want to erase,
click once. Select a different kind of Location Healing Brush and click on the
spot again if the spot does not go away.
How to Take a Line Out
To get rid of lone dust specks or cosmetic imperfections, use the Spot
Healing Brush tool. However, you may also drag the tool to eliminate a line
from your image, such as power lines.
For erasing a single location, the options bar's default settings are effective.
But you might need to adjust the spacing, mode, or kind of healing brush
when eliminating larger objects or a line.
Spacing
The Spot Healing Brush tool produces numerous brush strokes as you drag it.
The distance between two brushstrokes is known as spacing. For a clean
repair, lower to less than 25%. Any spacing above that will result in gaps in
the repair.
Set the spacing for the Spot Healing Brush to less than 25%.
Fusion Mode
To achieve the best results, we have already discussed switching up the type
of Spot Removal Brush. The blend mode can also be modified on the Options
bar. The new pixels merge in with the old pixels in this way. Besides Normal,
other options include Replace, Multiply, Screen, Darken, Lighten, Color, and
Luminosity. Normal is the default. Their responses to your photograph will
vary. Change the mix mode if you are not receiving the desired outcome.
Compare the outcomes when electricity lines are removed using various
blend modes.
Useful hints for the Spot Healing Brush instrument
Here are some recommendations for utilizing the Spot Healing Brush tool if
you are having trouble getting satisfactory results.
1.Line vs. Spot
A line can be removed with the Spot Healing Brush, but it works best if you
click once to remove an object. If at all possible, click once rather than
dragging when using the Spot Healing Brush to remove an object.
2.Change your course
Change the direction of the brush stroke when erasing a line. Move right to
left instead of left to right. Try starting at the top and working your way down
if you are traveling upward. Try beginning at the perimeter of your frame if
you are moving from the center outward.
3.Altering the brush size
The Spot Healing Brush may fix the center while leaving a ring if your brush
size is not quite large enough. Make the brush bigger so that it covers more of
the area.
4.Take away the smaller pieces
Try repairing tiny pieces if you are removing a large object or a long line.
Start by eliminating smaller parts of facial imperfections before moving on to
larger patches. When your skin is cleaner, you can take on the bigger issue.
Don't rush anything.
5.Spot Remove Once More
Sometimes, selecting the same area again will produce cleaner results. Try
using a brush of a different size or kind. But repeatedly walking over the
same area will result in the introduction of artifacts.
Also keep an eye out for recurring patterns. This attracts attention and makes
it obvious that you have altered the image. If Photoshop displays a repeated
pattern, go over the area one again to get rid of it.
6.Alternate Your Healing Method
If the repair is close to a sharp edge, the Healing Brushes might not function
properly. The tool may warp or cause an edge to become blurry. For the
repair, the Clone Stamp tool, Patch tool, or Content-Aware fill would be
preferable options.

Other tools perform better than the Spot Healing Brush if the spot is too close
to an edge.
Conclusion
Using Adobe Photoshop's Spot Healing Brush tool, you may eliminate
blemishes or minute objects from your image. Select the tool, then click the
trouble spot. Photoshop picks out replacement pixels from another area of
your image and combines them in. If you don't like the results, Photoshop
comes with three different types of Spot Healing brushes and a dozen
different blend modes.
HOW TO USE THE CLONE STAMP TOOL
The Clone Stamp tool in Photoshop duplicates one portion of a picture onto
another portion of the same image. The Clone Stamp tool is frequently used
by photographers and designers to crop off undesired parts of a shot. For
instance, it can be utilized to eliminate trees from a mountain view by
duplicating portions of the sky over them or to disguise deformities on
people's faces by copying from another region of the skin.
1. Launch Photoshop and open a photo. After clicking Open on the title
screen of Photoshop, you can choose a picture or Photoshop file (.psd
document) to open. As an alternative, you can always open an image in
Photoshop by using the procedures listed below:
In the top menu bar, select File.
Click Open.
Select a Photoshop file or picture.
Click Open.

2. Click the icon for the clone stamp tool. It is located on the toolbar, which
by default is on the left. Its icon is in the form of a rubber stamp.
As an alternative, you can use the keyboard's "S" key to choose the clone
stamp tool.
3.Activate the brush menu. To access the brush menu, click the icon in the
upper-left corner that resembles the presently chosen brush. It will look like a
dot or a circle by default.

4.choosing the brush size. The brush size can be changed by dragging the
slider bar beneath "Size." The clone stamp tool will leave a larger imprint if
the brush is larger.
The brush size can also be changed at any moment by pressing the keyboard
keys "[" and "]".
The icon that looks like a pencil with a small circle inside of a larger circle
can be clicked on a tablet or touch screen PC. It's in the top choices panel.
Thus, pressure size mode will be activated. How firmly you press with a
stylus will affect the size. This will take precedence over the size options in
the brush menu.

5. Choose the bristle hardness. How sharply defined the margins of a mark
made by the clone stamp tool are depends on the brush's hardness. Solid,
extremely visible lines will be produced using a brush that is 100% firm. In
general, a softer brush works better with the clone stamp tool. This will result
in marks with fading edges that are easier to conceal in their surroundings.

6. Change the opacity setting. How "see-through" the clone stamp tool marks
are will depend on their opacity. To change the opacity, select "Opacity"
from the drop-down menu and drag the slider bar. You won't be able to see
through the markings created by the clone stamp tool if the opacity is set to
100%.
You can enable pressure sensitivity to modify the opacity if you are using a
tablet or computer with a touch screen by selecting the pencil-shaped icon
next to the Opacity option. The settings for brush opacity will be overridden.

7. Adjust the flow. Opacity and flow are comparable, but flow behaves more
like ink on a piece of paper. The more you mark, the more "paint" it applies
to the surface. You can lay down the most ink possible with one click when
flow is set to 100%.
To activate airbrush mode using a stylus on a tablet or computer touch
screen, click the icon that looks like an airbrush.

Activate or deactivate "Aligned." As a default, "aligned" is activated. This

implies that the sample source will alter in relation to where you first stamped
with the clone stamp tool when you sample a section of the image. You can
consistently stamp the same sample if you turn off "aligned." Click to
uncheck the checkbox next to "aligned" to turn it off.

9. Choose on a sampling mode. When you are working with numerous levels,
this is especially crucial. "You can only sample from the active layer using
the current layer option. You can sample from either the active layer (current)
or any layer below it (current & below). You can sample from any layer as
they are all layers. Choose a sample mode from the drop-down menu next to
"Sample" on the keyboard.
It is advised that you add a new layer above the one you are now editing.
Select "Current & below" or "All Layers." "as the layer mode for. Create
every edit and mark on a different, empty layer. You can then start over with
the original image if you make a mistake by deleting the layer.
At the bottom of the Layers panel, click the icon that looks like a piece of
paper to add a new layer. If the Layers panel isn't visible, click Window in
the top menu bar before selecting Layers.
10.Click while holding down Alt or Option on a Mac. This will sample the
image. The region where you clicked will be sampled. When you use the
clone stamp tool to click the image, this is what will be stamped.
The area closest to the area of the image you want to stamp over should be
chosen. By doing this, the imprinted area will look uniform.

11.Wherever you wish to stamp, click. This imprints the image with a portion
of the image you chose. [2] [3]
Take a fresh sample each time you click for the best results. When it requires
numerous clicks to stamp over a section of the image, don't rely on "aligned"
to get the sample correct.
Retouching Photos Utilizing the Clone Stamp Tool
Move your cursor to the area you wish to duplicate while using the Clone
Stamp tool, then press Alt (on a PC) or Option (on a Mac) to select the
precise location from which to begin duplicating.
For instance, press Alt + click (Windows) or Option + click (Mac) on a
similar-colored region on a separate finger to remove the heart from the
woman's finger. Unclick the Clone Stamp Tool after painting the heart with
pixels from the previously selected region. The adjustments will be visible to
you as they take place. Adjust the size setting in the tool settings at the top of
the screen if it is too huge or little.

What Can You Do With the Clone Stamp Tool?

The area would be flat and devoid of any dimension, tone, and shadow if you
attempted to cover up a portion of an image with the brush tool. The spectator
would therefore be able to see the painted region. The Clone Stamp tool was
created by Adobe to enable more nuanced picture manipulation.
Tiny pixels are the building blocks of digital photos. The Clone Stamp tool
applies pixels copied from one area of the image to another area to create
paintings. The restored area thus melds perfectly with the remainder of the
picture. The Clone Stamp is the ancestor of other Photoshop tools like the
Pattern Stamp, Healing Brush, and Patch tool, so if you know how to use one,
you can use them all.
HOW TO IMPORT AND EXPORT IMAGES
To be clear, images have nothing to do with the "Import" and "Export"
options found under the File menu. Photoshop can output images in a wide
range of formats and open virtually any picture type.
Importing Photos
Step 1

To open an image in Photoshop, simply click it once.

Choose any picture from your computer, a linked device, an iPhone, or a
digital camera. Adobe Photoshop should be chosen when you right-click the
file and choose "Open With." The picture is launched and opened by
Photoshop automatically.
Step 2

Open or Open Recent can be chosen from the File menu.

To open a new file, go to the "File" menu in Photoshop and choose "Open."
By choosing "Open Recent" from the File menu, you may instantly reopen
any image you've just opened in Photoshop. You can open a PSD file in JPG
format by choosing "Open As," which allows Photoshop to resize the image
during import.
Step 3

The duplicate layer window in Photoshop.

In Photoshop, open two distinct files, then import one into the other. Choose
"Duplicate" from the File menu after selecting the image you want to import.
Select the desired file from the "Document" option, then click "OK." If you
altered the image, merge the layers first since only the selected layer is
imported.
Step 4

Windows in Photoshop were vertically tiled.

Drag an image to import it from one Photoshop file to another. Tiling the
windows first is the simplest way to accomplish this. Choose "Arrange" from
the "Window" menu, then "Tile All Vertically" or "Tile All Horizontally."
The image can then be moved easily by dragging it from one window to
another.
Step 5

Drag a picture from File Explorer onto a canvas in Photoshop.

Drag a photo from File Explorer into the Photoshop file to import it. This is
not only simple, but it also has the added advantage of having Photoshop
automatically adjust the imported image to fit the canvas. You can employ
this technique by opening File Explorer and dragging any image file onto the
Photoshop canvas. To complete the import operation, press "Enter." A new
Photoshop window will open if you drag the file anywhere above the canvas,
such as onto the ruler or menu bar.
Exporting Photos
Step 1

"Save As" can be chosen from the File menu.

Choose "Save As" from the File menu to export a photo from Photoshop.
Naturally, if you choose the "Save" option, Photoshop simply overwrites your
original photo file.
Step 2

Select "Save as Type" from the menu.

To choose a file format for the photo, select "Save as Type" from the Save As
menu. Save the image in one of the various image formats that are accessible,
such as JPG, PNG, or Photoshop's own PSD.
Step 3

Choose a file format that is compatible with the web.

If you want a picture that is optimized for the web, select "Save for Web"
from the File menu. This preserves the image sharp enough to display
effectively in a web browser while also saving it with a little file size. To
choose the format you desire, click the "File Type" menu. The image size
and, in the case of JPEG files, photo quality can then be customized. The size
of the file increases with quality.
How to Insert a Cropped Image Into Another Photo on a Mac
The clipboard is one of the most useful cross-application features on any
computer. You can use it to cut, copy, or paste information from one file—
like a cropped image—into another. Even though the clipboard can only hold
one piece of data at once, moving cropped images from one photo to the next
still makes use of it. You may copy and paste images using Preview, the
image viewing program that comes with all recent Macs.
Step 1: Click the image file twice to launch Preview and crop it. Drag the
crosshairs over the area of the image that you wish to keep by clicking on it.
Once the image has been cropped to your preferences, choose "Copy" from
the Edit menu.
Step 2: Choose "Open" from the File menu in Preview and go to the picture
you wish to paste the first picture onto. To open, click.
Step 3: Choose "Paste" from the Edit menu after clicking on the second
image. The open photo will display the cropped image. You can either
choose "Save" from the File menu or press the keyboard shortcut "Command-
S" after moving the cropped image to the desired location.

HOW TO OPEN RAW FILES

Camera Raw is frequently used by photographers because it makes
processing photos much simpler and quicker than utilizing Photoshop's
capabilities. Regardless of which Adobe photo editing program you use,
Camera Raw is a component of the Adobe Suite and is simple to incorporate
into your photo editing workflow.
If you're still removing images from Photoshop and Adobe Bridge, let's look
at how to open pictures in Camera Raw.
How To Use Camera Raw To Open Pictures
To save time and file space when using Photoshop, you might opt to do
simple modifications with Camera Raw rather than using Photoshop's tools. It
takes less time to edit photos with Camera Raw, and since the changes are
non-destructive, you can simply undo or change them without totally
changing the file.
Since Camera Raw is smoothly integrated into Photoshop, using it is not too
difficult. When using Photoshop, there are two straightforward methods for
opening photographs in Camera Raw.
A RAW file should be opened in Photoshop.
Opening a raw image file in Photoshop is the simplest way to open an image
in Camera Raw. Depending on the camera you use, RAW image files vary.
Canon's raw files are CR2, while Nikon's are NEF or NRW. Depending on
your laptop, you might need to open the image in Photoshop or Bridge before
you can view this format.
You can open RAW photographs in Photoshop by selecting File > Open after
saving them to your PC.

When you choose a RAW file, Camera Raw will launch itself in a new
window. Here, you can change your images' basic settings like exposure and
tone.
1.To open your image in Photoshop and save your adjustments, click Open.
2. Give a Layer a Camera Raw Filter
If you wish to modify a jpeg image with Camera Raw's modifications, the
other approach of opening an image in Photoshop is a suitable choice. By
adding a Camera Raw filter to the layer, you can use Camera Raw to alter the
image.
To begin, open your image in Photoshop. Keep in mind that this method only
works if your image is currently open in Photoshop as a layer. Navigate to
Filter > Camera Raw Filter while the image is open and the image layer is
selected.

By doing this, Camera Raw will be effectively opened, giving you access to
all of its editing features for the layer you've chosen. If you want to quickly
make basic adjustments in Photoshop but the image you're dealing with isn't a
RAW file, this is helpful.
Using Smart Objects with Adobe Camera Raw
Additionally, when working in Photoshop with Smart Objects, you can utilize
Camera Raw. Since doing so ensures that any alterations you make to the
layer will be non-destructive, many picture editors choose to do this. As a
result, you can update a document and save it without altering its data. This
makes any adjustments you make simple to undo.
First, duplicate the layer you're working on using Control + J (Windows) or
Command + J to use Camera Raw as a Smart Smart Filter (Mac). The
duplicate layer will then appear in the Layers Panel; if the layer you
duplicated was Layer 1, the new layer will appear as Layer 1 by default.

Convert to Smart Object is the next option after right-clicking the new layer.

As soon as the layer becomes a smart object, choose Filter > Camera Raw
Filter.
You'll see the Camera Raw window. Make any changes you'd like to the
image here, then click OK.

Double-clicking the smart filter under your smart object layer will quickly
take you back to the Camera Raw window.
Simply using this technique, the adjustments you make in Camera Raw will
be displayed beneath the layer, labelled Camera Raw Filter, once you save
them, making it simple to remove the adjustments by erasing this
modification.
In order to do the same modifications using other Photoshop tools, utilizing
Camera Raw with a Smart Object is a wonderful method to cut down on the
amount of layers you'd need to use. This minimizes the file size, allowing you
to conserve space on your computer.
How To Use Adobe Bridge To Open Camera Raw
While using Adobe Bridge, you can work with Camera Raw as well. The fact
that Adobe Bridge requires less computer effort than Photoshop is its main
advantage. Since Photoshop consumes a lot of storage space and processing
power, accessing Camera Raw from Bridge might make it run more quickly.
Open Adobe Bridge first before using Camera Raw in it. After that, click the
picture you want to alter. Clicking the Open in Camera Raw icon in the top
toolbar is the quickest way to open it in Camera Raw.

A RAW image will double-click immediately launch Camera Raw as well.

You can also choose the image and choose File > Open in Camera Raw.

Once you've completed editing your photo anyway you'd like, click OK. As
soon as you finish using Camera Raw, you can still access the Bridge
interface because Adobe Bridge remains open in the background.
If you only require basic edits to your shot and don't need more intricate ones,
Camera Raw has all the tools you'll need. Luckily, you can still access
Camera Raw for quick, simple, and non-destructive editing while using any
of Adobe's other applications.
HOW TO CREATE A SHARED ALBUM AND INVITE
PEOPLE TO CONTRIBUTE
Add things to a collaborative album
Click a shared album in the Shared Albums sidebar of the Photos
program on your Mac.
To add pictures and videos, click "Add."
Click Add after selecting the images, videos, and Live Photos you
desire.
The video in your Live Photos can be played by subscribers to your shared
album. See the following job to distribute Live Photos exclusively as still
images.
Items from a day or month can be added to a shared album.
Choose the images, videos, or Live Photos you desire from the Photos
app on your Mac.
Select Shared Albums by clicking the Share icon in the toolbar.
Take away things from a shared album
Ø Click a shared album in the Shared Albums sidebar of the Photos
program on your Mac.
Ø Press Delete, then click Delete after selecting the items you want to
delete.
Ø The original materials remain in your library even while Photos
removes the items from the shared album.
Important: You won't have copies of any pictures or videos that other
people uploaded to the shared album if you delete them. Before deleting these
items, download them from the shared album if you want to save them.

Edit a picture in a shared album.

You must first import the photo into your library in order to alter any pictures
or videos that someone else shared with you in an album. Then you can edit it
just like you would any other photograph. The original image in the shared
album is unaffected by any edits you make to the photo in your library.
Ø Click a shared album in the Shared Albums sidebar of the Photos
program on your Mac.
Ø Double-click the image you wish to change and then select Edit.
Ø To import, click.
Ø Press Edit.
Ø Edit the image as desired, then click Done.
Your modified image appears in the Imports album and in Photos view the
next day. Click the altered photo, select Image > Add to, then add the photo
to an existing album or create a new one to relocate it to. Click Shared in the
toolbar, select the shared album, and then select "Add photos and videos" to
add the altered photo to it once more.
 CHAPTER NINE
TROUBLESHOOTING ISSUES
Photoshop occasionally exhibits strange behavior. The abrupt errors that
appear out of nowhere in Photoshop are frustrating because they disrupt your
efficient operation.

Problem 1 – Photoshop freezes or crashes

Solutions: Users frequently lament that Photoshop freezes or crashes just
after installation or an update. You can perform the following to resolve the
problem:
1. Photoshop update: Open the Help > Updates menu. On the left side of the
Creative Cloud window, select "Updates." Choose "Check for Updates" from
the three dots in the top right corner of the screen.
2. Update Windows or macOS on your computer: If the Photoshop update
doesn't fix the issue, do the same for Windows or macOS.
3. Get rid of big preset files: Close Photoshop and take the following
actions:
On Windows 10, open [Drive]: Users[user
name]AppDataRoamingAdobeAdobe Photoshop [version]Presets.
On Mac navigating to user - Library/Application Support/Adobe/Adobe
Photoshop [version number]/Presets
Locate the preset files on your computer that have a significant file size and
move them there.
4. Reset Photoshop preferences to their default settings: Too many
preference customization options might cause Photoshop to stop, crash, or
simply operate slowly. By returning Photoshop options to their normal state,
you can address the app's abrupt behavior. Resetting, however, will remove
all customized settings. So, before you reset, make a backup of your choices.
Follow the steps below to reset Photoshop's preferences to their default
settings:
Using the shortcut keys on the keyboard, close Photoshop and then open it
again. Use command + option + shift on a Mac, and hold down the Ctrl + Alt
+ Shift keys on a Windows computer.
The question "Delete the Adobe Photoshop Settings file?" is displayed in a
message. Select Yes.

Problem 2: Photoshop lags or performs slowly.

Solution: Compared to other apps, Photoshop is a hardware- and graphics-
intensive program that requires more resources for best performance. Your
photo editing program may run slowly if you have insufficient RAM or
outdated graphic drivers. You can do the following to make Photoshop run
more quickly:
Reinstall software: Update the graphics card driver, PC/Mac operating
system, and Photoshop.
Boost memory usage: Give Photoshop 85% of the available space.
Improve hardware setup: If necessary, use a faster SSD, add more RAM,
and get a faster processor like the AMD FX-4130, Ryzen 9 5900x, Intel Core
i7-3820, or Intel i9 10900K.
Choose the proper cache preset: Depending on the type of job you're doing,
choose cache preset.
For instance, utilize Photoshop's "Huge Pixel Dimensions" preset option for
dealing with large documents, whereas the "Web/UI Design" preset option is
ideal for documents with several layers used for designing websites or mobile
applications.
Problem 3:
Photos won't open in Photoshop Solutions: Try the following remedies to
resolve the problem if you are unable to access picture files, whether they are
JPEG, RAW, or other types:
Restart Photoshop after closing it.
If the file extension is incorrect, check it and rename the file.
Replacing Photoshop
The image might be harmed if the aforementioned fixes fail. To mend
damaged images, use Stellar Repair for Photo, a photo repair program. The
software can repair corrupt or broken JPEG, DNG, or RAW files from Sony,
Fuji, Nikon, Canon, and other manufacturers.
Problem 4 – Green screen on opening files in Photoshop 22.4
Solution: Users of Photoshop 22.4 have reported seeing a green screen while
opening files that are JPEG, TIFF, PSD, or other file types. When using two
monitors, the green screen problem also arises in earlier versions of
Photoshop.
Close Photoshop, then restart it to solve the green screen issue. Click on
Preferences > Technology Previews if this doesn't work. Deactivate Native
Canvas by checking it, then restart Photoshop.
Problem 5: Exporting JPEGs from Photoshop CC causes color changes.
The JPEG photographs may not export in sRGB color profile, which results
in missing red, blue, or green color when imported into Photoshop CC. Make
sure to set the JPEG color profile to sRGB before editing if you are
experiencing a JPEG color change issue after export in Photoshop CC.
Additionally, always export JPEG images with the sRGB profile.
Problem 6: Photoshop is unable to open RAW files from cameras.
Solution: Photoshop may display any of the following errors when it can't
recognize RAW files from a camera:
This file cannot be opened in Photoshop.
Because Photoshop does not recognize this sort of file, your request could not
be fulfilled.
"The file is corrupt or is in a format that cannot be included," it says.
Make sure you have the most recent software updates installed before
attempting to fix the Photoshop RAW camera file problem.
Check to see if Photoshop supports your camera model if, after the most
recent updates, you still can't open RAW files in Photoshop. If not, you might
have to wait since Adobe doesn't make the new camera compatible for over
90 days after it launches.
Alternately, you can use Adobe DNG Converter or another DNG file
converter to convert a RAW file to DNG format.
Problem 7: Photoshop program faults
Solutions: Incorrect Photoshop options, plugins, or file extensions may be to
blame for application errors such as "Could not complete your request due to
a program problem." By utilizing the following fixes, Photoshop application
faults can be fixed:
1. Change the image's file extension to a.jpeg,.png,.dng,.psd, or another
appropriate extension by navigating to the image's location on your computer.
2. To disable the Generator, go to Edit>Preferences in Photoshop. Uncheck
"Enable Generator" by selecting the Plugin tab. Select OK. Open Photoshop
after your machine restarts.
3. Reset Photoshop Preferences: If none of the aforementioned techniques
work, restore the default Photoshop preferences. (Follow the instructions for
reset in problem #)
Problem 8: Photoshop update failures
Solution: Check your computer's cleanup programs if you're getting issues
after updating Photoshop. CCleaner, Avast Cleanup, and CleanMyMac X are
a few examples of cleaning tools that occasionally remove files needed by
Photoshop for updates. If the Photoshop update issue persists, update your
disk cleanup program, and don't use it again until you've updated Photoshop.
Problem 9 – Adobe Photoshop Error 1

Solution: Photoshop Error 1 is an installation failure error that reads, "Please

uninstall and reinstall the product." The Creative Cloud programs on your
computer may become corrupt as a result of virus or file corruption. Uninstall
the Creative Cloud desktop app, then reinstall it using the administrator
account to resolve Error 1 in Photoshop.
Problem 10: Full-disk failures on scratch drives
Solution: Photoshop uses the hard drive space on your computer as a scratch
disk for temporary storage. For optimal performance, Photoshop advises
having at least 20 GB of free space on a hard drive. Depending on the sort of
file you have, you could need more free space. The error message "Scratch
disk full" means there is no more space on the storage drive being utilized as
the scratch disk.
Free up space on your scratch disk to resolve the scratch disk error.
Unneeded files can be deleted or moved to another location. If drive C: is
your scratch disk in Windows, for example, remove any superfluous files
from here or move them to drive F: on your computer. Your files can be
transferred to an external drive as well.
Problem 11: Photoshop tool is not functioning
Reset the tool to its default settings if the Photoshop brush tool is not
painting, the crop tool is greyed out, or other tools are malfunctioning.
Reset Tool can be chosen by right-clicking the icon for the default tool in the
Tools bar. All of the Photoshop tools will be returned to their default settings
if you select Reset All Tools.
Tips: Check and deactivate the keyboard's caps lock button if the brush tool
abruptly stops functioning. The brush tool would once more begin to
function.
Problem 12 – JPEG parsing error in Photoshop
Solution: When you import a JPEG file into Photoshop, the message "trouble
parsing the jpeg data" appears. It was a flaw that was primarily found in
earlier iterations of Photoshop CC 2018. By simply updating Photoshop, you
can solve the issue with processing JPEG data in that program. To fix the
JPEG parsing error without updating to the most recent Photoshop CC, read
this blog if you prefer to stick with your previous Photoshop CC version.
Problem 13: There are no Photoshop tools.
Solution: After upgrades or switching to a different workspace, Photoshop
tools could be missing. To solve the problem, reset your toolbar to its initial
state. Try the following techniques to return the toolbar to default settings
since Photoshop keeps the tool customization settings in preferences and
workspace:
Edit > Toolbar > Restore Defaults in Photoshop will restore the toolbar.
Reset the workspace's toolbar: To reset the essentials, go to Window >
Workspace > Essentials (Default).

Manually modifying the toolbar: Select Edit > Toolbar. Click Done after
dragging the missing tool from the Extra Tools area to the Toolbar section on
the left of the Customize Toolbar dialog box.
Problem 14: Photoshop won't let you open more than five files at once.
Solution: Photoshop users on Windows PCs typically report this issue. If you
attempted to open several files at once in Photoshop, a loading wheel would
appear.

Select Preferences > Technology Previews to resolve the problem. On the

right side, select the Deactivate Native Canvas option, then click OK. Restart
Photoshop after that.
 INDEX
adjusting contrast, 56
adjustments, 2, 14, 24, 27, 48, 56, 59, 61, 62, 76, 101, 106, 164, 167, 208, 220, 268, 273, 277, 354, 360,
361, 362, 363
advantageous, 160, 275, 282
animation, 35, 55, 69
applications, 1, 3, 279, 331, 365, 369
Background, 128, 130, 196, 197, 199, 205, 206, 207, 230, 237, 253, 255, 256, 259, 260, 261, 307, 308,
309
behavior, 232, 285, 367, 368
billboard, 246, 247, 248, 249, 250
bitmap, 64
blending modes,, 29
bottom, 4, 15, 53, 55, 56, 62, 71, 78, 99, 108, 117, 119, 121, 122, 124, 125, 128, 130, 140, 143, 149,
156, 191, 194, 197, 203, 245, 246, 247, 254, 277, 281, 284, 307, 321, 323, 333, 352
boundary, 172, 219, 298
brightness, 16, 60, 154, 182, 185, 206, 220, 241, 278, 309, 310
Brush's size, 86
brushstrokes, 344
Bucket, 65, 68
calibration, 61, 153, 154, 155
canvas, 28, 35, 65, 66, 67, 71, 72, 77, 81, 103, 105, 106, 107, 108, 175, 176, 177, 199, 211, 279, 281,
285, 286, 287, 288, 289, 311, 314, 324, 325, 328, 357
checkmark, 11, 122, 173, 175, 176
clipboard, 249, 359
Clockwise, 9, 334
Clone Stamp tool, 347, 354
Color, 17, 55, 60, 78, 130, 132, 155, 259, 261, 269, 278, 286, 290, 308, 309, 310, 316, 319, 336, 345
colorimeter, 153, 154
Command-Z (Mac), 7, 165
compressed, 55, 57, 151
conjunction, 163, 278
Content-Aware, 296, 297, 339, 343, 347
contrast, 14, 16, 19, 21, 22, 32, 60, 154, 155, 181, 182, 183, 184, 185, 186, 187, 200, 206, 220, 239,
240, 241, 262, 267, 269, 306
conventional painting, 29
Convert to sRGB, 55
converting, 58, 206
Cropped, 170, 177, 359
customers, 36
customize, 23, 32, 107
Customize, 136, 373
darkening, 6, 18, 21, 188
database, 61
Deactivate, 369, 374
Decontaminate, 298
default, 2, 3, 11, 13, 53, 65, 81, 82, 92, 107, 114, 126, 130, 131, 144, 154, 220, 221, 232, 243, 244, 260,
270, 274, 292, 307, 309, 323, 335, 344, 345, 348, 349, 352, 362, 368, 371, 372, 373
demonstration, 56
designer, 1, 30, 86, 310
diagonally, 124
dimension, 13, 93, 95, 96, 107, 354
dimensions, 11, 13, 89, 94, 96, 97, 98, 100, 103, 107, 136, 171
Distort, 116, 118
document, 5, 28, 31, 37, 70, 84, 89, 91, 103, 104, 165, 167, 168, 237, 244, 251, 253, 254, 255, 290, 293,
307, 332, 348, 362
Dodge, 6, 187
Dodging and burning, 18
downward, 51, 121, 271, 323, 328
dragging, 7, 22, 60, 109, 111, 114, 115, 117, 119, 121, 122, 126, 134, 138, 148, 149, 160, 164, 183,
185, 190, 192, 193, 195, 202, 209, 221, 235, 240, 246, 251, 252, 259, 260, 263, 294, 298, 310, 311,
312, 314, 328, 346, 349, 357, 373
drawbacks, 224, 256
drawing, 12, 29, 65, 67, 79, 82, 252, 282, 307
dropdown, 25, 87, 270, 275, 312, 317, 325
duplicate, 78, 187, 196, 230, 234, 257, 259, 354, 356, 362
equilibrium, 336
eraser, 65, 83, 255, 256, 257, 258, 259, 307
expectations, 31
Explorer, 39, 44, 357
Eyedropper, 65, 307
feature, 4, 8, 23, 25, 26, 27, 44, 61, 138, 141, 145, 163, 166, 167, 168, 173, 178, 233, 234, 249, 256, 263
features, 23, 26, 29, 47, 65, 141, 166, 199, 238, 256, 273, 277, 278, 293, 312, 313, 359, 361
flexibility, 30, 50, 61
foreground, 83, 139, 140, 259, 261, 263, 307, 308, 309, 338
Format, 1, 25, 52
fundamentals, 65, 69, 86, 256, 329
geometry, 61
GIF, 1, 25, 50, 55, 69
glasses, 79
gradients, 25, 31, 65, 69
Graphic, 1, 135, 138
hardness, 19, 204, 258, 259, 292, 293, 339, 350
Healing Brush, 165, 290, 339, 340, 342, 343, 344, 345, 346, 347, 354
HipsterDog, 70, 71
History, 7, 146, 167, 168, 256
horizontally, 110, 117, 119, 149, 310
HTML, 33
hues, 68, 154, 155, 259, 263, 266, 276, 315
innovation, 37
Interpolation, 72, 73, 93
interpretation, 61
JPEG, 1, 25, 37, 39, 46, 47, 50, 54, 55, 63, 268, 278, 359, 369, 370, 372
keyboard, 7, 11, 44, 106, 114, 124, 126, 156, 160, 164, 165, 166, 212, 227, 228, 239, 246, 248, 255,
290, 310, 311, 313, 314, 349, 352, 359, 368, 372
laptop, 37, 360
layered, 329
Lightroom, 47, 58, 59, 206, 275, 277, 332
loading, 33, 54, 278, 279, 374
luminance, 154, 206, 309
luminous, 154
Mac computers, 3
Mac OS., 81, 302
Magnetic Lasso, 212, 217, 218, 219, 220, 221, 223, 226, 238, 239, 240, 241, 242, 244
magnifying, 157, 158, 341
maintaining, 26, 89, 134, 136, 144, 176, 229, 304
marquee, 5, 12, 31, 286
masking, 32
measurement, 92, 95, 96, 99, 107, 181, 310
modifications, 27, 56, 58, 62, 89, 106, 111, 122, 155, 164, 167, 168, 190, 196, 199, 208, 268, 360, 361,
364
monochrome, 60, 264
mouse, 10, 11, 28, 65, 80, 83, 159, 162, 164, 170, 175, 187, 209, 211, 223, 240, 242, 243, 244, 246,
247, 248, 251, 252, 262, 314, 328
Navigate, 43, 361
opacity, 6, 29, 81, 82, 83, 138, 187, 257, 292, 293, 298, 303, 336, 337, 350, 351
opposition, 117, 120
outlook, 81
over sharpened,", 22
paintbrush, 200, 290, 337
painting, 1, 29, 168, 196, 199, 258, 302, 307, 354, 372
palettes, 3, 7, 30, 68
Panel icon., 146
panels, 144, 145, 146
photo-editing, 1, 277
photographers, 1, 21, 34, 170, 238, 347, 359
Photographers, 29, 166
photographic, 6, 25, 267
Photoshop, 1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12, 13, 14, 19, 21, 23, 24, 25, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37,
38, 40, 41, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 53, 56, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 70, 72, 74, 75, 76, 77, 81, 82,
83, 84, 86, 87, 88, 93, 94, 100, 101, 104, 106, 111, 128, 129, 138, 141, 144, 145, 146, 148, 150, 156,
160, 162, 163, 164, 165, 166, 167, 168, 171, 173, 175, 176, 177, 178, 180, 181, 184, 185, 187, 190,
195, 196, 199, 200, 201, 203, 205, 206, 208, 209, 210, 212, 218, 219, 220, 224, 226, 227, 228, 229,
230, 231, 232, 233, 234, 238, 239, 240, 241, 242, 243, 244, 245, 246, 247, 248, 249, 250, 251, 253,
255, 256, 257, 260, 261, 262, 263, 268, 269, 273, 277, 278, 279, 282, 283, 284, 285, 289, 293, 294,
299, 302, 304, 306, 307, 310, 311, 312, 313, 315, 316, 323, 329, 330, 331, 332, 333, 334, 335, 338,
339, 340, 342, 343, 347, 348, 354, 355, 356, 357, 358, 359, 360, 361, 362, 364, 367, 368, 369, 370,
371, 372, 373, 374
PicResize, 93
pixel, 1, 15, 29, 30, 64, 65, 67, 70, 71, 72, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 80, 81, 82, 89, 90, 95, 232, 253, 261, 262,
282, 340
pixelation, 35, 316
Polygonal, 200, 211, 214, 215, 223, 226, 243, 244, 245, 246, 247, 248, 250, 251, 252, 255, 298
predetermined, 100, 271
Press CMD, 71
prominent, 32, 265
proportions, 13, 27, 99, 103, 134, 324, 328
Pure white light, 154
RASTER, 1
RAW image, 56, 59, 360, 364
rectangle, 95, 139, 159, 162, 170, 172, 333, 337
Repositioning, 115
resize photos,, 26
Resizing, 11, 26, 92, 94, 110, 135, 138, 179, 180
resolution, 11, 26, 66, 67, 71, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 94, 98, 99, 100, 101, 282
Resolution, 89, 90
restrictions, 35, 54, 135
retouching, 2, 34
reverse, 7, 8, 112, 116, 123, 165, 233, 248, 319
saturation levels, 68
saving, 2, 12, 23, 50, 51, 55, 80, 122, 200, 359, 360
Scale Image, 92
Scaling, 67
scrubby, 159
Shadows, 317
shape layers., 31
sharpening, 21, 22, 47, 56, 60, 77
Shift key, 114, 115, 124, 126, 140, 143, 180, 224, 244
shortcuts, 11, 76, 83, 110, 156, 224
Shortcuts, 166, 167
skyscraper, 174, 246
Sliders, 60, 192, 310
software, 1, 3, 7, 28, 30, 31, 36, 64, 70, 82, 149, 153, 165, 166, 279, 368, 369, 370
spacebar, 163, 164, 251
specifications, 99, 136
spectacles, 79
spectator, 354
spectrum, 15, 190, 259, 309
Spriting, 67
square brushes, 278, 279, 280, 282, 289
stamping, 6
standards, 3, 21, 152, 155
straightforward, 84, 210, 212, 221, 224, 250, 292, 310, 339, 360
Text Tool, 5
Texture, 330, 331, 332, 333, 336, 343
The Lasso Tool, 5, 209, 210, 211
thumbnails, 38, 49, 144
tolerance, 29, 232, 259, 262, 319
Tolerance, 232, 259, 261
toolbox, 3, 76, 78, 159, 169, 307
Transform, 102, 111, 112, 113, 114, 116, 120, 122, 123, 124, 126, 127, 128, 180, 249, 333, 334
transformation, 34, 123
typeface, 149, 312
unimaginable, 29
Unlocked, 197
upward, 108, 346
Vibrance, 189
Warp mode, 122
webpage, 54
Width" and "Height", 93
Wi-Fi connections, 33
windows, 3, 7, 251, 357
workflow, 165, 167, 175, 199, 359
Workspace, 2, 3, 145, 147, 373