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STITCHES AND

ABBREVIATIONS

St/Sts — stitch/stitches

Ch — chain

ss — slip stitch

Sc — Single crochet

Hdc — half double crochet

Dc — double crochet

Dc2tog — double crochet two together

Dc3tog — double crochet 3 together

MC — main color (Mustard Yellow)

CC — contrasting color (Champagne White)

I.MAIN PART

Take some DK weight yarn and a 4.0 mm crochet hook and create a foundation chain made of 75 chains.

Work in rows. After each row turn and start with a new one.

Row 1 (MC): Start in the 3rd ch from the hook.

Work 1 dc into each of next 73 Sts. Turn. = 73 Sts.

Row 2 (CC): Ch 1. Work 1 hdc into each of next 73 Sts. Turn. = 73 Sts.

Row 3 (MC): Ch 2. Work 1 dc into each of next

73 Sts. Turn. = 73 Sts.

Row 4 (CC).• Ch 1. Work 1 hdc into each of next 73 Sts. Turn. = 73 sts.

Row 5 (MC).• Ch 2. Work 1 dc into each of next 73 sts. Turn. 73 sts.

Row 6 (CC).• Ch 1. Work 1 hdc into each of next 73 Sts. Turn. = 73 Sts.
Row 7 (MC): Ch 2. Work 1 dc into each of next

73 sts. Turn. = 73 sts.

Repeat rows as row 7 a few more times:

• 3 more times for the O — 6 months.

Do not cut the yarn just yet. Start with your first front upper part of the cardigan.

Take 4 stitch markers and mark 18th (20th), 19th (21st) stitch from your left and 18th

(20th), 19th (21st) stitch from your right. That should give you 18 (20) stitches for each front upper part and 37 (41)
stitches for the back.

2.FRONT UPPER PART 1

Continue working in rows. After each row turn your work and start with a new row.

Row 1 (MC): Ch 2. Dc 15. Dc3tog. = 16 sts.

Row 2 (MC): Ch 2. Dc2tog. Dc 14 sts. — - 15 Sts.

Row 3 (MC): Ch 2. Dc 15. = 15 sts.

Repeat row 3 a few more times:

• 2 more times for the O —6 months,

Row 4 (MC): Ch 2. Dc 7. Dc3tog. = 8 sts.

Row 5 (MC): Ch 1. sc 8. = 8 sts.

Cut the yarn and fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.

3.BACK UPPER PART

Insert the hook into the next marked stitch.

Work in rows. After each row turn your work and start with a new row.
Row 1 (MC): Join with the main panel. Start in the first. Ch 2. Dc3tog. Work 1 dc into each of next 31 Sts. Dc3tog. = 33
Sts.

Row 2 (MC): Ch 2. Dc2tog. Work 1 dc into each of next 29. Dc2tog. = 31 Sts.

Row 3 (MC): Ch 2. Work 1 dc into each of next

31 Sts. = 31 Sts.

Repeat row 3 a few more times:

• 2 more times for the O — 6 months.

Row 4 (MC): Ch 2. Dc 8. Hdc 1. sc 13. Hdc 1.

Dc8. = 31 Sts.

Row 5 (MC): Ch 1. Hdc 8. sc 15. Hdc 8. - 31 Sts.

Cut the yarn, fasten off and weave in the ends.

4.FRONT UPPER PART 2

Insert the hook into the next marked stitch.

Work in rows. After each row turn your work and start with a new row.

Row 1 (MC): Join with the main panel. Start in the first. Ch 2. Dc3tog. Work 1 dc into each of next 15 Sts. = 16 Sts.

Row 2 (MC): Ch 2. Work 1 dc into each of next 14 Sts. Dc2tog. = 15 Sts.

Row 3 (MC): Ch 2. Work 1 dc into each of next

15 Sts. = 15 Sts.

Repeat row 3 a few more times:

2 more times for the O — 6 months.

Cut the yarn and fasten off. Weave in the yarn tail.

Row 4 (MC): Skip first 5. Start in the next. Join with the main piece. Ch 2. Start in the same.

Dc3tog. Work 1 dc in A ch of next 7. = 8 Sts.


5.ASSEMBLlNG

Line up the straps; 8 Sts on the top of each front panel with 8 Sts on each side (left and right) on the back upper panel.

Thread the yarn end that left on the front upper panel and join those 8 Sts from each panel with a few simple sewing
Sts.

Secure the yarn end between the Sts.

Repeat the steps for the second strap.

6.EDGlNG

ARMHOLE

Take some DK weight yarn in MC. Join the yarn to the bottom of the armhole and work sc stitches evenly around the
armhole.

Work 1 sc into each row that starts with a sc or hdc st and work 2 sc Sts into each row that starts with the dc st.

Join the round with a slip stitch.

Cut the yarn and fasten off. Weave in the yarn ends.

MAIN PART

Take a small amount of DK weight yarn in MC.

Join the yarn in one of the upper corners of the cardigan (collar) and continue working sc Sts evenly down to the first
lower corner, then continue along the bottom and up towards the second upper corner.

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