Electrical Engineering Troubleshooting Guide
Electrical Engineering Troubleshooting Guide
VOCATIONAL EDUCATION
REVITALISATION PROJECT-PHASE II
NATIONAL DIPLOMA IN
ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING TECHNOLOGY
Computer Hardware II
COURSE CODE: EEC 247
THEORY/PRACTICAL
1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
WEEK 1.....................................................................................................1
Before getting into the troubleshooting details, it is important to know about what goes on
during the startup process. The reason is, there are actually quite a few steps that occur in
between switching the power ON and hearing the familiar Windows 95, 98 or Windows
ME./XP startup sounds and seeing the Windows desktop. In fact, there are a whole series
of files that are automatically loaded one after the other when you turn your computer on.
The trick with troubleshooting startup problems is trying to figure out which of those files
(or what step in the process) causes a specific problem in the computer. If we know
approximately where in the startup process the problem occurs (Computer gets stuck), we
can diagnose the problem easily.
This chapter explains the various problems that occur in a computer and the
troubleshooting procedures.
BIOS
When your computer is first turned on, it automatically loads a program called the BIOS, or
Basic Input/Output System, which is stored on a special chip on your computer’s
motherboard. The BIOS is essentially a combination of software and hardware in that it
consists of software, but the contents of that software is stored in a hardware chip.
One of the first things we should see on your computer’s monitor when we start the PC is
some type of message like "Hit Esc to enter Setup," although instead of Esc it may say F2
or F10 or any number of other keys and instead of Setup it may say CMOS Setup or BIOS
Setup or just CMOS. Make note of the key required to enter the Setup program because we
may need that later (some startup problems can only be solved by changing some
BIOS/CMOS settings via the Setup program).
The first thing that the BIOS does when it boots the PC is to perform what is called the
Power-On Self-Test, or POST for short. The POST is a built-in diagnostic program that
checks the hardware to ensure that everything is present and functioning properly, before
the BIOS begins the actual boot. It later continues with additional tests such as the memory
test and then it lists any devices that it finds attached to the computer’s internal IDE
controller(s). (that is seen on the screen of the monitor) as the boot process is proceeding.
The POST runs very quickly, and you will normally not even noticed that it is happening--
unless it finds a problem. You may have encountered a PC that, when turned on, made
beeping sounds and then stopped without booting up. That is the POST telling you
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something is wrong with the machine. The speaker is used because this test happens so
early on, before the video is activated! These beep patterns can be used to diagnose many
hardware problems with the PC. The exact patterns depend on the maker of the BIOS; the
most common are Award and AMI BIOS.
When the system BIOS starts up, you will see its familiar screen display, normally after the
video adapter displays its information. These are the contents of a typical BIOS start up
screen:
When a problem is identified with the system during the POST, the BIOS will normally
produce an error message. However, in some cases the problem is detected so early in the
test that the BIOS cannot even access the video card to print the message! In this case the
BIOS will produce a beeping pattern on the speaker to tell you what the problem is.
The exact meaning of the beep codes depends on the type and version of BIOS that you
have. The three most popular types of BIOS are those made by Award, American
Megatrends (AMI) and Phoenix. The beep codes for these BIOS products are described in
this part of the troubleshooter. If you are using a PC made by a company that writes its own
BIOS, you will have to consult your owner's manual
A single beep during the boot process, usually right before the BIOS startup screen is
displayed, is normal and does not indicate a failure as long as the boot continues on.
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Beep codes can be in several different patterns, depending on the BIOS that you are using.
Some BIOSes use very simple beep codes in a pattern of varying numbers of short beeps,
while others may mix short and long beeps. The Phoenix BIOS is famous for its
complicated beep patterns that are actually in up to four groups--one or more beeps and
then a pause, followed by as many as three more patterns.
Introduction to Troubleshooting
For successful troubleshooting, we must always gather some vital information as listed
below:
Description of the problem like what error message, unusual displays was seen
before the trouble
When did the problem start?
What was the situation when the problem started ?
What software or program was running when the problem occurred?
Was the computer moved in the recent times?
Was there any electrical power (Mains) supply problem or a thunderstorm prior to
the trouble?
Was any hardware, software or configuration changes made in the computer?
Has someone else used the computer?
Next check if the PC is booting or not. If there is any booting problem follow the flowchart
shown below to diagnose the fault.
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If
the screen is blank and entire system is "dead" nor lights, no spinning drive or no fan, then
there is obviously power supply problem.
The PC sometimes halts during booting and after several tries boots successfully.
Error codes or beep occur during booting but they come and go.
The computer hangs or stops for no reason. Sometimes it might even reboot itself.
Memory errors appear intermittently.
Data is written incorrectly to the hard disk.
The keyboard stops working at odd times.
The motherboard fails or is damaged.
The power supply overheats and will become too hot to touch.
An improperly working fan causes power supply problems. Usually before a fan stops
working, it hums or whines, especially when the PC is first turned on. If this has just
happened , replace the fan or replace the power supply itself.
If the fan still does not work even after replacing the power supply then it is not the
problem with the fan. A short somewhere else in the system and drawing too much power
may be causing the problem.
Do not operate the PC if the fan does not work. Computers without cooling fan can quickly
overheat and damage the chips. To troubleshoot a non functional fan, which might be a
symptom of another problem and not a problem of the fan itself, follow the steps:
1. Turn off the power and remove all power cord connections to all components,
including the connections to the motherboard and all the power cords to the
drives. Turn the power back on. If the fan works, the problem is with one of the
systems that was disconnected, not with the power supply or its fan.
2. Turn off the power and reconnect the power cords to the drives. If the fan comes
on, you can eliminate the drives as the problem. If the fan does not come on, then
try one drive at a time till the drive with a short is identified.
3. If the drives are not the problem, suspect the motherboard subsystem. With the
power off, reconnect all power cords to the drives.
4. Turn off the power and remove the power to the motherboard by disconnecting P8
and P9 or P1. Turn back the power on.
5. If the fan works, the problem is probably not the power supply but a short in one
of the components powered by the power cords to the motherboard. The power to
the motherboard also powers interface cards.
6. Remove all interface cards and reconnect plugs to the motherboard.
7. If the fan still works, the problem is one of the interface cards. If the fan does not
work, the problem is the motherboard or something still connected to it.
The motherboard, like all other components inside the computer case, should be grounded
to the chassis. Look for a metal screw that grounds the board to the computer case.
However, a short might be the problem with the electrical system if some component on
the board makes an improper contact with the chassis. This short can seriously damage the
motherboard. Check for missing standoff (small plastic spacers that hold the motherboard a
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short distance away from the chassis), the problem that most often causes these improper
connections.
Shorts in the circuits on the motherboard might also cause problems. Look for damage on
the bottom of the motherboard. These circuits are coated with plastic, and quite often
damage is difficult to spot.
Frayed wires on cable connections can also cause shorts. Disconnect hard drive cables
connected directly to the motherboard. Power up P8 and P9 or P1 connected but all cables
disconnected from the motherboard. If the fan works, the problem is with one of the
systems you disconnected.
Overheating Issues
If your computer hangs after it has been running for a while, you may have an overheating
problem. First, check whether there is air flow within the case. Open the case and make
sure the CPU and the power supply fans are turning and that cables will not fall into the
fans and prevent them from turning when you close the case. While you have the case
open, use an antistatic vacuum designed to be used around electronic equipment or a can of
compressed air. To blow dust off the motherboard and the CPU heat sink. Check the vents
of the case, and clear any foreign material that may be blocking airflow.
After you close the case, leave your system off for a few hours. When you power up the
computer again, let it run for 10 minutes, go in CMOS setup, check the temperature
reading, and reboot. Next let your system run until it shuts down. Power it up again and
check the temperature in set up again. A significant difference in this reading and the first
one you took after running the computer for 10 minutes indicates an overheating problem.
Try adding an extra case fan or more powerful fans than those you already have. When
adding extra fans, for every fan that blows air out of the case, use one that blows air into
the case. Also, you can monitor the temperature inside the case using a temperature sensor
that sounds an alarm when a high temperature is reached or uses software to alert you of a
problem.
Be careful when trying to solve an overheating problem. Excessive heat itself may damage
the CPU and the motherboard, and the hard reboots necessary when your system hangs
may damage the hard drive. If you suspect damaged components, try substituting
comparable components that you know are good.
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The AMI BIOS is one of the most popular in the PC world today, and fortunately is quite consistent in its use
of beep codes, across its many different versions. Please select the beep pattern you are hearing from the list in
the table given below.
4 Beeps System timer failure This is usually a motherboard failure. Troubleshoot the motherboard.
There is a problem with one or
more of the timers used by the
system to control functions on
the motherboard.
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A component of the
motherboard is producing an
error interacting with the
CMOS memory that holds the
BIOS settings.
11 Beeps Cache memory error This usually means a problem with the Troubleshoot the secondary
system cache. It may also be a more general cache.
The system has attempted to problem with the motherboard. Troubleshoot the motherboard.
verify the operation of the
secondary (level 2) cache and
has encountered an error.
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Award is the other major BIOS provider today, along with AMI. Award uses by far the fewest beep codes of any of
the BIOS manufacturers.
The BIOS performs a power-on self-test (POST) when it starts up the system,
to check out the PC and make sure that everything is working properly.
Assuming that the BIOS is able to boot the system far enough to gain access
to the video subsystem, it will display information about the PC as it boots. It
will also use the video system to communicate error messages to the user. In
fact, most boot problems are displayed via video error messages.
There are many thousands of individual error messages; some are more
common than others because there are only a few different BIOS companies
that are used by the majority of PCs today. However, since the exact wording
of an error message can be changed by the manufacturer of each system or
motherboard, there are a lot of variations.
In most cases, the messages are pretty similar to each other; Similar error
messages, those that really mean the same thing but just use different wording,
have their descriptions and diagnoses grouped together to make things
simpler.
Some of the common error messages and their descriptions are listed in the table below:
Error Message Explanation Diagnosis Troubleshooting steps
BIOS ROM Checksum The read-only memory (ROM) The BIOS ROM chip on the Troubleshoot the motherboard.
Errors containing the BIOS program is motherboard is probably faulty.
protected by a checksum value as a It could also be another
double-check that the ROM code is component on the motherboard.
correct. This checksum is compared
against the values in the ROM each
time the PC is booted and if there is
a
mismatch, this code is generated.
CMOS display type The system has detected that the type The BIOS setting that controls the Double-check and correct
mismatch of video card you have in the PC is display type for the PC is set the video display type BIOS
not the same as the one you told the incorrectly. Very rarely, there setting. It should be set to
system you had. could be some other bizarre "VGA" or "VGA/EGA" for
explanation for this problem. virtually all newer PCs.
Troubleshoot the video card
if the BIOS setting is
correct and this problem
persists.
Troubleshoot the
motherboard.
No boot device The system has attempted to find a All of the bootable drives in the If this is a new system with
drive to boot the operating system, system are not functioning. a hard disk that has never
but has failed (the error message Normally this means that the been formatted before, you
itself may not always be very clear floppy disk drive is either absent need to boot from a floppy
that this is what has happened, or not functioning, or has no disk first, and partition and
especially the infamous "NO ROM in it, and the hard disk is either format the hard disk. Try
BASIC - SYSTEM HALTED"; see not connected or has no bootable that.
here for more on that error.) The active partition on it. If you were trying to boot
system cannot start up because there from the floppy disk drive,
is no operating system for it to load. troubleshoot the floppy disk
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DMA Errors The system has detected an error This is most likely a motherboard Troubleshoot as a generic
associated with the direct memory problem, but it might be caused expansion card issue.
access (DMA) controller(s) on the by a bad expansion card as well. Troubleshoot the
system motherboard. If the DMA controller number is motherboard
supplied as part of the error
message, that might help narrow
down the DMA channel where the
problem was detected, if
applicable. DMA controller #1
handles DMA channels 0 to 3, and
controller #2 handles channels 5
to 7 (channel 4 is the cascade
between the two controllers).
Invalid media type The system tried to use a disk or This is one of those poorly- Assuming that this is a new
other media that is of the incorrect phrased messages; what it almost hard disk you are setting up,
type. always means is that you tried to just format the disk and you
use a hard disk volume after are all set.
partitioning it but before If an existing disk produces
formatting it. For example, if you this error, then it means that
are setting up a new system and something has seriously
you partition the hard disk, then corrupted the disk.
boot from a floppy and type Troubleshoot this here.
"DIR C:", you will usually get
this
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Non-system disk or The system found a boot device-- The most common cause of this If trying to boot from a
disk error; replace and either a floppy disk or a hard disk-- problem is trying to boot a non- floppy disk, replace with a
press/strike any key and tried to boot it, but could not start bootable floppy or hard disk, that bootable disk and try
when ready the operating system because the is, a disk that has not been made booting again. See here for
operating system files are not on the bootable using the "FORMAT /S" more on boot disks.
booted volume. or "SYS" commands. If this If trying to set up a new
occurs on a disk that was already hard disk, first set up the
prepared to be bootable, it means hard disk so it is bootable.
that the operating system startup If this type of error is
files have become corrupted. encountered in an existing
system, there is a good
chance that the disk has
become corrupted somehow
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Checking the Power Supply
If the wall outlet, and the power cord are good, as well as the connection at the
motherboard is secure. Then you may have to face the fact that the power
supply itself is bad. If you have a Multimeter you can test the power supply
output before purchasing a new one. Simply follow these steps.
Turn off the PC, but do not unplug it, open the system unit. Set the
multimeter to read DC volts in the next range higher than 12 volts. Locate
a power connector similar to the hard drive, or floppy drive connector that
is unused and turn on the PC. You can also unplug a drive connector and
use it as well. Turn on the PC and insert the BLACK probe into power
connector on one of the BLACK wires. Touch the RED probe to the
YELLOW wire on the power connector.
Figures below illustrate the procedure for checking the power supply in a
typical ATX power supply.
The multimeter reading should be +12 volts. Now touch the RED probe to
the RED wire and the reading should be +5 volts. If no readings or
different readings occurred, you, will have to replace the power supply. If
the readings were correct, you should check the connector at the
motherboard.
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Refer to the power supply connector/voltage details shown in the
figure below and check the corresponding voltages.
DO NOT remove the power supply from the system unit case when
performing these tests Be sure to remove any and all electrical static build-
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up from your clothes and body BEFORE touching any parts inside the
system unit.
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Software Diagnostic tests for hardware
There are several diagnostic and maintenance tools provided in most of the
operating systems. Some of the most important diagnostic tools are:
1. Disk Error-Checking
Check Disk (Chkdsk.exe) is a utility which verifies the logical integrity of
a file system. In the event of the utility encountering logical
inconsistencies in file system data, it will perform the necessary actions to
repair the file system data.
The equivalent utility in earlier versions of Windows was referred to as
ScanDisk.
The following procedure describes how to perform error-checking of a
hard drive under Windows XP:
a) Launch disk error checking by double-clicking My Computer, right-
clicking the hard disk drive you want to have checked, clicking
Properties and Select the Tools tab.
Select the required option for the areas of the disk to be scanned. ScanDisk
usually cannot repair errors in the system area of a disk. If such errors exist,
your disk probably needs to be replaced.
Specify whether or not you want ScanDisk to verify that sectors can be read
from and written to, and/or have the utility repair hidden and system files on
your disk.
The next time you start your system, the chkdsk.exe utility will be run
prior to Windows being loaded, examining all the metadata on the volume
in five separate stages:
When the utility finishes, Windows will continue to load as per a normal
system start-up.
2. Disk Cleanup
The Disk Cleanup tool helps you free up space on your hard disk by searching
your disk for files that you can safely delete. You can choose to delete some
or all of:
2. A dialogue window will appear enabling you to select the drive you
want to clean up.
3. The specified drive is examined and the amount of space that can be
potentially freed up calculated.
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5. One of the options that isn't checked by default is Compress old files.
Checking this will result in files that haven't been used for a while
being archived. With this item selected in the list.
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6. Click Options to set a time limit for files to be compressed.
7. Check the boxes associated with the items you want to delete and click
OK.
8. The More Options tab provides further scope for freeing up disk space.
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3. Disk Defragmenter
Since files are constantly being written, deleted, and resized, fragmentation is
a natural and ongoing occurrence. However, it is also one that has significant
performance implications. When a file is spread out over several locations, it
takes longer to read and write. In fact, the effects of fragmentation can be
more widespread than that, causing long boot times, random crashes and
system freeze-ups.
Defragmentation
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The process of removing wasted space between fragments on a hard disk by
reorganizing and rewriting files is called Defragmentation.
Note that we cannot defragment a hard disk that is completely full, and that
the less free space there is, the longer defragmentation will take. This is
because the defragmentation utility need some room in which to temporarily
store fragments as it reassemble files.
If the hard disk is relatively full, it is therefore good practice to run Disk
Cleanup before attempting to defragment a drive.
The drive is
scanned and a
visual
representation of
the degree to
which it is
fragmented
displayed.
The length of time the defragmentation takes will depend on the size of the
drive, the degree to which it's fragmented and the amount of free space it has.
Be prepared to to allow it to run for several hours, if necessary.
When the PC is booted up, it does not show that it is detected all of the
memory in the machine. Several megabytes, usually an amount equal to the
size of a memory module or half a memory module, are missing.
Beep Codes:
Error Code:
Remedial procedure
Some of the steps involved in the remedy of the Memory failure are given
below:
1) Check for possible general problems associated with new systems. One
of these could be causing the memory to appear to be bad when it is
not.
2) Make sure to carefully check the memory modules, which sometimes
appear to be inserted correctly when they are not. Make sure they are all
sticking up at the correct height from the motherboard. Ensure that the
modules have been pushed all the way into their sockets and that the
spring clips have snapped into position properly to hold them.
3) Check for loose connections within the PC.
4) One of the most common causes of unrecognized memory is using an
unsupported module size. Ensure that the size of memory modules you
have selected is supported. Some motherboards will not support certain
sizes of modules; in particular, 2 MB, 8 MB and 32 MB modules are
composite and will not work in some machines. Consult your
motherboard manual.
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5) Make sure that you have used the correct sockets. Motherboards have
multiple sockets and putting modules in the incorrect ones will often
cause problems. For example, most Pentium motherboards have four
SIMM sockets, which make up two banks. If you put the SIMMs in the
middle two sockets then you have accidentally put memory into half of
the first bank and half of the second bank, and the PC will not boot.
Putting the memory into the full second bank instead of the first won't
work on many motherboards either (but it will on some).
6) Check the technology of the memory you are using. Use the type of
memory suitable for the motherboard. Using unsuitable memory in
some machines can cause the memory not to be recognized.
7) If you have an older motherboard, especially in a 486 or earlier system,
there is a chance that your motherboard requires jumpers to be set when
adding memory to the PC. If this is the case then failing to change the
jumpers may result in either the memory not being detected.
8) There could be a motherboard problem. If double-checking all the
settings and replacing the memory does not fix the problem, there may
be a bad motherboard or a problem with how it is configured.
9) There could be something wrong with the memory modules themselves.
Note that bad memory will often pass the BIOS memory test at boot
time. If you can, try the modules in another PC that uses the same kind
of memory. If you have performed all the checks listed in the points
above, and the memory does not work in another PC, the memory itself
may very well be bad. Try to replace the memory and see if the problem
goes away. The figures below illustrate the procedure for removing and
inserting a memory module.
Troubleshooting procedure:
3. Check to insure that the Mixer Control volumes are set to 3/4 volume
and are not muted. Analog or digital can be set in the Mixer
Controls, depending on the type of sound card and speakers used.
4. Make sure that all connections to all speakers are fully seated.
Usually, these plugs click twice before the fully seat.
5. Try plugging in a known working set of head phones to ensure that
the sound card is functioning.
6. Try plugging in the speakers to a known working portable CD player
that will accept the same connection. This will determine if the
speakers are working.
7. Go to: Start>> Control Panel>> Administrative Tools>>
Component Services>> Services. Make sure audio is enabled.
8. Go to: Start>> Control Panel>> Sounds and Audio Device
Properties. Be sure that the "Mute" checkbox is unchecked.
In the Sound
Playback section
from the drop down
menu, select the
device
The Volume
Control panel will
appear
Click on the
Properties section
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Combinations of these four types of failure are also possible. Whether the data
on the hard disk is recoverable or not depends on exactly what has happened
to the disk and how bad the damage is. All hard disks also develop bad
sectors which can lead to data loss and drive inaccessibility.
Hard disk firmware is the information that is used by the computer that
allows it to correctly interact with the hard disk. If the firmware of a hard
disk becomes corrupted or unreadable the computer is often unable to
correctly interact with the hard disk. Frequently the data on the disk is fully
recoverable once the drive has been repaired and reprogrammed.
2. Electronic Failure
3. Mechanical Failure
Usually worse than electronic failure, mechanical failure can quite often
(especially if not acted on early) lead to a partial and sometimes total loss of
data. Mechanical failure comes in a variety of guises such as read / write
head failure and motor problems. One of the most common mechanical
failures is a head crash. Varying in severity, a head crash occurs when the
read-write heads of the hard disk come into contact, momentarily or
continuously, with the platters of the hard disk.
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4. Logical Errors
Often the easiest and the most difficult problems to deal with, logical errors
can range from simple things such as an invalid entry in a file allocation
table to truly horrific problems such as the corruption and loss of the file
system on a severely fragmented drive.
Logical errors are different to the electrical and mechanical problems above
as there is usually nothing 'physically' wrong with the disk, just the
information on it.
Beep Codes:
Error Code:
Remedial procedure
Some of the steps involved in the remedy of the Hard drive failure are given
below:
1) The first thing to check for is whether or not the hard disk can be seen
by the hard disk controller; usually on a true hard disk failure, the disk
will not be detectable by the controller (but this is not always the case).
Assuming you have an IDE hard disk, enter the BIOS setup program
and use the IDE detection facility of the BIOS to see if the disk's
parameters can be detected. If the disk cannot be auto detected using the
auto detect feature in the BIOS program implies immediately some sort
of hardware problem.
2) If you can see the hard disk when you auto detect, the problem is more
likely to be software than hardware. Remember that you cannot usually
boot a brand new hard disk until it has been partitioned and formatted.
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3) See if the disk will boot up. If it will not boot, then boot from a
floppy boot disk and then use the FDISK command (or other
partitioning software) to see if you can see the disk.
4) If the drive will boot up, then you should be getting a more specific
error message of some sort, or a more specific failure mode that
you can use for troubleshooting.
5) If the drive is detected in the BIOS setup but cannot be booted or
accessed when booting from a floppy disk, then there is a good chance
that the disk itself may be bad. If possible, try connecting the hard disk
to another system and see if the problem is present there as well.
6) If the hard disk is dead and needs to be replaced follow the procedure
given below:
d) Select a good hard disk, connect the IDE cable and replace the
hard disk.
e) Secure the hard disk on the drive bay slot by tightening the screws.
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Scandisk:
If the computer reports that it has corrupted, damaged, or missing files and the
programs no longer operate properly, then this is the first step to try and fix
the problem. Also, if the computer seems to be running slower than usual,
sometimes this procedure will provide a fix. It is a good idea to perform this
operation often.
Scandisk procedure
NOTE - Depending on what version of Windows you are running the above
labels may be slightly different, but not so different that you will not be
able to find it.
3. Be sure to select "C:" from the drop down box if it is not already chosen.
Then click on the radio button for Standard under Type of test. Next check
the box (click on it) labelled Automatically fix errors.
The Thorough test option should not be selected unless you suspect the
physical hard drive has been damaged. I suggest always running the Standard
scandisk option first. Then If you still have problems rerun it with the
Thorough option selected. Also, if you do not select Automatically fix
errors the computer will stop and wait for you to answer some rather
confusing questions.
5. Be sure to click on all of the radio buttons and check boxes EXACTLY
as shown. Then press the OK button. This will return you to the former
screen where you can press START.
The Scandisk process usually does not take long unless there are serious
problems with the hard drive. Do not be concerned if the procedure restarts
itself.
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6. When the entire procedure is completed, you can reactivate the screen
saver and then start working with applications. It is not necessary to restart
the computer.
Warning - if you are setting up a hard disk which contains data, the following
procedure would completely erase your hard disk and the data would be
unrecoverable.
Before a new hard disk can be used it needs to be setup. This involves
partitioning and formatting the hard disk. Windows 98 or ME boot disk
contains the required software to perform this procedure. FDISK.EXE and
FORMAT.COM are the files required in your bootable floppy disk.
These are some symptoms that may be caused by the floppy drive
Symptom Remedy
Indicator light never The interface cable may be reversed. Check the
goes off connection to the drive and to the motherboard.
Scandisk will check the floppy or other disk for errors, and fix
them if possible.
Procedure Steps:
3. Once selected, right-click the floppy to access the right-click menu and
select Format...
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These are some symptoms that may be caused by the CD ROM drive.
Symptom Remedy
CD ROM drive can not Check that the power and controller cables are securely
be accessed and the attached to the drive.
light does not go on Verify that pin #1 of the controller cable is matched to
pin #1 on the drive and on the motherboard.
The operating system may not be configured to use or
"see" the drive.
If it never worked, verify that the jumpers on the drive
are set correctly.
The drive drawer does Press the button once and wait at least a minute.
not open In Windows, go to "My Computer", right click on the
CD-ROM drive and choose "Eject" from the menu.
With the computer unplugged, you can open most CD-
ROM drawers with a unwound paper clip. Poke it, as
straight as possible, into the hole and push with
moderate force (the paper clip may bend a little) to force
the drawer open a half inch. Now pull the drawer the
rest of the way open.
If the problem persists, check that the power connector
and controller cable are securely connected to the drive.
A CD may be jammed or broken inside the drive.
Access may require the removal of the drive's outer
case. If this is necessary, it is very likely that the drive
will have to be replaced.
The drive seems to Is the drive on the same controller cable as the primary
transfer data too slowly hard drive? If so, performance will be slowed because
only one device can communicate at a time. Move it to
the second IDE controller.
Incase the CD ROM drive needs replacement, The procedure for replacing a
CD ROM drive is as follows:
1. Remove the side covers of the PC and remove the defective CD ROM
drive as shown in the figure.
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2. Adjust the jumpers on the back of the CD ROM (if necessary) as shown in the figure.
4. Connect the power supply cable to the CD Rom drive as shown in the
figure.
7. Secure the drive in to the drive bay as shown in the figure and replace the computer cov
Symptom Remedy
The key repeats too fast The character repeat rate or delay is set too fast. Go to
(or slow) the Windows control panel and click on "Keyboard" to
change the settings.
When one letter is
typed , it types several
The PC beeps or gives a Turn off the PC and check that the keyboard connector
"Keyboard Error" is securely plugged into the back of the PC.
message Make sure the keyboard is not plugged into the mouse
port.
If you are using a USB keyboard, make sure USB is
enabled in BIOS and in Windows.
Check that none of the keys are stuck or being held
down.
The keys are sticking Turn the keyboard upside down and shake it vigorously
to dislodge any dust or debris.
Try removing the key by using a paper clip as a lever to
pop it off. Check for debris or other cause of sticking,
clean with a cotton swab.
With the key off, make sure any spring or mechanical
parts are properly positioned to support the key.
Keyboard Cleaning
2. After cleaning the sides of the keys take your lint free cloth and dampen it
with your cleaning fluid (don't put the
liquid directly on the keyboard), give
the surface of the keyboard a good
wipe over using the cloth to trace the
contours of the keys as shown in
figure.
When you have finished give the
keyboard a wipe over with the dry
cloth/duster, you should now have a
nice clean keyboard, to clean it more thoroughly follow the guide below.
3. Carefully pry each key loose with a small screwdriver as shown in the
figure and place all these keys in to a container. open wider keys properly
which may have guide wires like
space bar, enter, caps lock and shift
keys. Now clean every key with a
dishwasher or rubbing alcohol with a
soft cloth.
7. Now clean the rubber components and the plastic cover of keyboard.
8. Dry completely all the keys, rubber and plastic covers.
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9. Properly fit all the keys to the right place. you can take the help of the
paper map. cover them and tighten the screws.
Replacing a Keyboard
If the keyboard uses a PS/2 connector or the older large 5 pin connector
turn off the PC first. If the keyboard has a USB connector, it may be
safely connected while the PC is powered on.
If the keyboard connector does not match the connector type on the
PC, adapters are available for connecting the same.
PCs with PS/2 connections will usually have two ports. One port is for
the mouse and the other is for the keyboard. Look for a small icon near
the ports to identify which is which. You may also inspect the
motherboard for a label that identifies the port. If all else fails, take a
guess and start the PC, if it beeps, won't start or otherwise behaves
strangely, then turn it off and interchange the wires.
Computer Week
The following picture (Figure 12) shows an AGP slot where we assemble a VGA
card and 6 PCI slots where we assemble sound cards, modems and other add-on cards.
One may need to replace a video card if it fails or if he/she wants a newer one with
better specifications. The VGA card is very important in many software applications like
video-editing, animations, CAD, or else. When you decide to replace your old VGA
card you must know in advance that the newer one will meet your requirements and has
compatibility with the motherboard. The following are the steps of replacing a VGA
card.
There are few PC jobs easier than installing the video card. Most
AGP slots lack the latch that the cards were designed to accept on
the back edge. That latching point is clearly visible on the old
video card we're replacing, you can see the "L" shape under the
four video memory chips on the right side of the card. If the
motherboard had supported a lock, it would have closed over the
"L." In fact, the primary failure mode for AGP video cards is
when they pop partially out of the slot on their own (or because
the monitor cable pulls them up), so before you assume any video
card is dead, you should reseat it in the slot and give it another try.
Computer Hardware Week 11
Once you have the video card positioned properly over the AGP
slot, seat it evenly by pressing down on the top edge at both the
front and back of the card (left). Once it's seated, install the
retaining screw on the back rail (below), then inspect the card to
make sure it's still fully seated in the slot. On poorly designed
motherboards or cases, installing the screw can cause the video
card to pivot on the back of the slot and lose contact with the front
of the slot. That pretty much covers how to replace an AGP video
card, unless you count installing the software drivers as a step.
Just use the CD that comes with the video card and hopefully
there'll be a wizard.
Computer Hardware Week 11
Network cards have many different feature, one of the most important is the speed. So,
we need to replace it if it fails or if we need a newer one with better performance.
The last mentioned steps are basically the required for replacing a sound card. May
be replacing other Add-On cards will take same steps but the specifications will be
different as mentioned above.
There is an important thing to remember after replacing an add-on card which is that
you must have drivers for the new ones. When you mantle a VGA card you must then
setup the drivers for it. Each operating system has a different driver for a specific card.
This also applies for sound cards, modems, network cards and other add-on cards.
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Modems
The word "modem" is a contraction of the words modulator-demodulator. A
modem is typically used to send digital data over a phone line.
The sending modem modulates the data into a signal that is compatible with
the phone line, and the receiving modem demodulates the signal back into
digital data. Wireless modems convert digital data into radio signals and
back.
Modem standards
1. Modulation (speed)
2. Error correction
3. Data compression
Error correction standards provide a way of correcting errors that result from
outside interference, such as noise on the phone line. Error correction ensures
that data coming out of the receiving modem is exactly the same as data going
into the sending modem.
Error correction standards correct only those errors occurring between the two
modems. They cannot correct errors occurring between the modem and the
computer (a connection which is considerably more reliable when proper
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cables are used and connections secured).
Baud rate
The measure of how fast a modem transfers data. The faster the baud rate, the
faster the data transfer. If you divide the baud rate by 10, you get a rough
estimate of the number of bytes (or characters) transferred per second, and this
provides an idea of how long a file transfer will take.
For example, a 2400 bps modem can transfer about 240 bytes per second (that
is, about 1Kb every four seconds). Therefore, a 25Kb file would take about
100 (25x4) seconds to transfer.
Most high speed modems can still connect to older, lower speed modems.
When they do, they receive information from the compute at high speed, and
send the data out at a lower speed. Therefore, they may have to instruct the
computer to slow down periodically.
Flow control is the method a modem uses to control the quantity of data the
computer sends to the modem. It ensures that data is not lost if it is sent to the
modem faster than the modem can accept it.
There are two widely recognized standard methods for flow control. They are:
Procedure Steps:
4. Unscrew and remove the metal insert on the back of the system case
that corresponds to this expansion slot.
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5. Insert the card into the expansion slot carefully. You may have to rock
it back and forth from front to back to get it to go in. Figure below
shows a modem card and insertion of the card into the slot.
d) To install a new
modem, click on the
Modems tab and press
the Add button.
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e) Click Next
Note: By following the instructions above, you can install the majority of the
modems that can be found in the market. However, if for any reason the
installation of your modem fails, you will have to consult the manual that
came with the modem for further instructions.
There is also a possibility that your modem gets installed automatically by
your O/S, since Windows XP uses the Plug and Play technology.
c) you can set up the connection by opening the Internet Options Icon on
the Control Panel. When you select the Connections tab, you will see a
button labeled Setup; clicking the button will guide you through setting
up your connection. You will need some information from your ISP to
do this, including the phone number to call, the names of the ISP's
email servers, the type of service, and your password for initial login.
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Sound Failure Symptoms
Some of the problems associated with the sound in computers are as follows:
Troubleshooting procedure:
3. Check to insure that the Mixer Control volumes are set to 3/4 volume
and are not muted. Analog or digital can be set in the Mixer
Controls, depending on the type of sound card and speakers used.
4. Make sure that all connections to all speakers are fully seated.
Usually, these plugs click twice before the fully seat.
5. Try plugging in a known working set of head phones to ensure that
the sound card is functioning.
6. Try plugging in the speakers to a known working portable CD player
that will accept the same connection. This will determine if the
speakers are working.
7. Go to: Start>> Control Panel>> Administrative Tools>>
Component Services>> Services. Make sure audio is enabled.
8. Go to: Start>> Control Panel>> Sounds and Audio Device
Properties. Be sure that the "Mute" checkbox is unchecked.
In the Sound
Playback section
from the drop down
menu, select the
device
The Volume
Control panel will
appear
Click on the
Properties section
Computer Week
Types of Mice
New Optical Mice no longer have the disadvantages of earlier mice and
are capable of being utilized on any surface. In comparison to the
traditional Optical-Mechanical mouse, the Optical is a much better
solution for a computer mouse.
Mouse Cleaning
A good mouse will have to be smooth and working properly. A mouse that
sticks and cannot work properly is because of dust or dirt in the
mouse.Generally optical mouse don’t have this type of problem compared to
scroll mouse which has a mouse ball in it.
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The procedure for cleaning a mouse is outlined below:
Installing a Mouse
A mouse or trackball connects to the computer through either a PS/2 or USB
port, which in recent years have replaced the older serial port pointing
devices. If the computer does not have USB ports but has PS/2, you can still
connect a USB mouse or trackball by using a USB-to-PS/2 adapter.
Step 1. Shut down your computer. If you are using a PS/2 mouse or
trackball, shut down Windows and turn off your computer. If you are
connecting a USB device, the computer does not have to be turned off, but it's
still a good idea to do so, especially because connecting a device often means
you must move the computer case so you can get to
the back.
Step 3. Install the wireless device batteries. If you are connecting a wireless
mouse or trackball, follow the vendor directions and insert the batteries into
the device, making sure to correctly orient the positive (+) and negative (-)
ends of the batteries in the battery compartment.
Step 4. Set the wireless device channels. For a wireless mouse or trackball to
work, the receiver and device must be set to the same frequency channel.
Sometimes, there's a small A-B or 1-2 switch on each component that must be
set the same. In other cases, there's a Connect button you press once the
device is connected and the computer is turned on. For the specifics on your
device, check your manual.
Step 5a. Plug in the USB device. If you are installing a USB mouse or
trackball, connect it to a USB port on the back, front, or side of your
computer. If you have a USB keyboard, most include extra ports on either
side for connecting other USB devices, including your mouse or trackball.
USB ports are notched on one side, so the plug must be correctly oriented.
Step 5b. Plug in the PS/2 device. If you are installing a PS/2 mouse or
trackball, connect it to the PS/2 mouse port on the back of the computer, being
careful not to confuse the port with the PS/2 keyboard port. If you do
accidentally reverse the connection, your computer won't be damaged, but
your keyboard and pointing device won't work. As you plug in your device,
make sure to properly orient the PS/2 pins with the port.
Step 5c. Plug in the wireless receiver. If you have a wireless mouse or
trackball, connect the device receiver to either the USB or PS/2 port, as
described in step 5a or 5b. For the wireless pointing device to work properly,
the receiver should be positioned away from your monitor, large metal
objects, or florescent lights, as they all can interfere with the wireless signal.
For a simple mouse or trackball that doesn't have extra buttons or options, the
default drivers that Windows installs are fine. However, if the pointing device
includes extra features, We may have to install the drivers included on the
vendor disc, to access those features.
Symptom Remedy
Cursor does not move left or Check the cable connection,
right. Dirt clogged between the sensor and the wheel, Clean the
mouse.
Computer Week
The PC beeps or gives a Turn off the PC and check that the Mouse connector is
"Mouse Error" message securely plugged into the back of the PC.
Make sure the mouse is not plugged into the keyboard
port.
If you are using a USB mouse, make sure USB is
enabled in BIOS and in Windows.
Left or right button Switch must have failed, Check the micro switch
inoperative Accumulation of dust/dirt, Clean the mouse.
Defect in the circuit board
Button has no spring or Switch has worn or broken internal spring, button plastics
click. jammed.
Mouse Cleaning
Replacing he Mouse
- OR -
If you are installing a Personal System/2 ® (PS/2) mouse, connect the mouse
to the PS/2 mouse port on the
back of your computer as shown in
the figure..
8. If you are replacing your keyboard or mouse with an identical device, you
can often change the keyboard or mouse without reinstalling the old device
driver. If the new hardware does not work, reinstall the device driver.
Computer Week
Assembling the system
Assembling the entire system might be a little tricky if you've never done it before. Some
things you will want near you while doing this, is a cold drink, plenty of light, computer
screws, all the manuals that came with the hardware you purchased, a screw driver and of
course, your sanity.
Oh and a word about static electricity. Make sure you de-static yourself (by touching your
computer's power supply or wearing a very expensive anti static bracelet), and it would be
a good idea to work in a non-static area, such as on a table, or a kitchen counter, and away
from carpet. Whatever you do, be very careful not to zap your components.
Configuring the jumpers is the first thing that needs to be done. What you will want to do is
consult your motherboard manual on how to set everything correctly. There are just to
many motherboards out there that I can cover in this article. Most jumpers listed in your
motherboards manual are already set up for you. The main ones you will have to configure
are:
a) Power supply type. In the event that you have an AT/ATX motherboard you will need
to set this one correctly.
b) CPU external bus frequency. This is where you specify what bus frequency your CPU
is at.
c) CPU to bus frequency ratio. Look at the little box that contained your CPU, it will
show you the exact ratio (should be a number like 2x, 3.0x, 3.5x, etc.)
d) CPU voltage. It's really important that you get this one right, or else you'll end up with a
*really* hot CPU or a non-working board.
This one is really easy. Take the CPU, and hold it with your right hand. Look on your
motherboard for the CPU socket. With your left hand hold the motherboard with a
firm grip while you insert your CPU. Then connect your CPU fan. Easy isn't?
This process can be a little frustrating. A good thing to do would be to remove the piece
where the motherboard screws too, which is a large panel within your computer case.
Computer Week
Next you should have little plastic looking screws. Use these to secure all four corners of
your motherboard. Don't worry if you can't secure each corner, more often than not you
will only be able to get 2 to 3 corners.
Finally, you will see holes in the middle of the motherboard. You should be able to insert
two screws to secure the middle of your board. Screw these in, but make absolutely certain
that you have those little red rubber looking washers. This will protect your board from
damage that the metal screws can cause. Like the corner screws, it's really no big deal if
you can only screw in one center support screw.
Once your board is securely inserted within your case, you will want to pop in the
RAM. Here you will discover exactly how easy it is to perform the 40-50 dollar job that
CompUSA and other stores will charge you.
Look up in your motherboard manual exactly in what sockets your RAM has to go into.
Then insert your RAM slowly, but firmly into its socket. DIMMs can only be inserted in
one way. Simply align the indents found on the lower part of the DIMM to the indents
found in the RAM socket.
In the lower right part of your case you will see a bunch of cords ending with black heads.
These black heads will be labeled HDD, RST, PWR, TURBO, etc. If they are not labeled,
then good luck trying to figure out which goes where. I've actually had the chance of
trying to figure that out ... it took me a few tries, but basically it's trial and error.
Anyhow, take a hold of those cords, look up in your manual where the proper
connectors go to, and plug them in.
You should refer to your computer manual as to how exactly the power supply cords
should be connected to your board, but generally the black cords of the two power supply
strips will be found in the center of the two connecting power supply outlets on your
motherboard.
On the outer edge of your motherboard, usually near the keyboard connector, you will have
3 outlets. The first two will be close together and are of the same size (small). This is
COM1, and COM2. Not to far from these you will see an outlet that is just a little bigger,
and this is your LPT outlet. Consult your board manual to find the exact location.
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So you will have to take the gray ribbons with the red dots/stripe on the side and connect
them to the correct connector.
Make sure that the red stripe/dots face towards the left side of your motherboard (the side
where your power supply is).
These gray ribbons then go to a little metal bracket that holds another connector that looks
exactly like your printer port. You will have to screw these brackets into your case.
Next, take your floppy drive, insert it into an available bay (in the upper right hand corner
of your case). Connect a power supply to the drive, which will be a thin cable coming out
of your power supply. Next, take your floppy drive gray ribbon (it's the only one that will
connect to the floppy drive). Connect one end to the floppy drive, and the other to the
board. Look in your manual if you're not sure where this is located. Like in the above step
(#6), the red stripe/dots must face towards the left part of your board.
The IDE drives are the hard drives and CD-ROMs. Before putting them in their respective
bays, make sure you have their jumpers set up right (consult their documentation). You will
need your hard drive to be set as a master, or slave (depending on how many hard drives
you have).
Then connect the IDE gray ribbon (it's the only one that will fit to the IDE drives) to
the drives themselves and then to the motherboard. Like in the above step (#6), the red
stripe/dots must face towards the left part of your board.
Next you will want to insert your expansion cards into your motherboard. These are the
sound cards, video cards, modems, etc. Each one of these go into their correct slot (AGP,
PCI or ISA) with the metal bracket facing the left part of the case so you can screw them
in.
If you have an AGP card, this one will go into the AGP slot, which is brown, and there
shouldn't be more than one AGP slot on your board. Slowly but firmly insert the card into
the slot. You will know when it's all the way in.
PCI cards will go into the PCI slots. These slots are the smaller white ones.
The ISA cards will go into the ISA slots. These are the longer black slots.
If you got a sound card, which supports CD-ROM audio, now would be the perfect time to
connect the digital audio cord to your CD-ROM.
Computer Week
Booting up for the first time.
Now it's the moment of truth. Connect your monitor, mouse, keyboard and power cord to
the computer. Don't screw the exterior case cover just yet, because you might have to fix
something that doesn't work (let's hope not).
Now turn the power on. If you see something on your screen that matches your CPU
speed, then a Memory test that matches your amount of RAM, then you got it done!
Sure you may have to fix some problems, but you can rest assured you got the core
stuff done. If you don't see nothing, then you probably omitted one of the steps above,
or you didn't do it right. Consult your hardware manuals! They will explain to you
exactly how everything needs to be connected.
Once you boot up, you will probably see a heading labeled "Press DELETE to enter
setup", or maybe "Press ESC to enter setup". Whatever the key, press it to enter your
BIOS.
First thing you will want to do in your BIOS is set up your hard drive. More than likely you
will have an option labeled "Auto-detect IDE devices". Use this to configure your BIOS to
use your hard drive(s).
You may also want to screw around with other items. I can't really help you there, but
grab your motherboard manual, and read what it says about your BIOS.
That's it! You're all done! Well at this point, if everything worked great, you deserve
a good pat on the back. It sure isn't an easy task to build your own computer.
Some people tend to "rush build" their PCs. Well unless it's a dire emergency, I
don't recommend this. You're better off taking each step one at a time, and to make
sure everything is securely screwed and connected.
Probably one of the easiest steps of all is to get your newly built computer set up with
an operating system.
You have a very wide choice of operating systems: Windows 95/98/NT, Linux,
FBSD, OS/2 and the list can go on.
I'll be very honest right now. I will not explain how to install any OS except the main
basics of getting Windows 95/98 (they both install the same way) installed. If you want to
install a UNIX OS, Win NT or OS/2, then you probably know enough about computer to
do it without my guidance.
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First, you will need to create yourself a system disk. Grab yourself a new or used floppy
disk, insert it into your current machine and format it.
To format, go to your desktop, open up the "My computer" icon, then right click on your
Floppy drive icon. Then select format. Make sure you select "full", and the "Copy system
files" option. Then hit start.
Once done, you may want to perform the following. With your floppy disk still in your
drive, go to a dos prompt. If you don't know how to go to a DOS prompt, or if you have no
clue what it is, well I'm sorry to inform you, that setting up an OS on your new computer
will be nearly impossible. Take an hour or two to learn about DOS ... do a little research
about it on the web (a great place to start is Webfreebees.Net of course).
Anyhow, once you get to your DOS prompt, simply type in: SYS A: You can then exit
your DOS prompt.
You will want to search for the following items (no need to be in order):
a) FORMAT.COM
b) FDISK.EXE
Each time when the program file appears in your search window, right click on it, then
select the "SEND TO" option, then "send to" your 3 1/4 floppy drive icon.
Once both programs are copied, your all set to boot up your new computer again. Make
sure your BIOS is set to read your floppy drive first for the boot up sequence.
Insert your floppy and turn the power on. Once everything is done starting, you will be at
a DOS prompt, that will look like this:
A:\>
What you will want to do now is type in FDISK.EXE. This will start the software required
to prepare your hard drives. The software is fairly easy to use with step-by-step
instructions.
If it allows it, I suggest that you enable large hard drives. This will save you the hassle
of having to split up your large hard drive into smaller partitions.
Once FDISK is done, you will need to reboot your computer again. Make sure you keep
the system disk in your floppy drive.
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Once the system is done rebooting, and you find yourself to the great colorful A:\>
DOS prompt. Next task is to format your hard drive(s).
Simply type:
FORMAT /S C
Then your hard drive will be formatted. You will then want to reboot (take the system disk
out of your floppy drive).
Once you reboot, if all went well, you will now see a C:\> prompt. Now the next thing you
will want to do is install your CD-ROM for DOS. Refer to your CD-ROM instructions for
this.
You will probably have to reboot again, which is okay, since it will be one of the last times.
After you reboot, and you're back to the C:\>, insert your Windows95/98 CD-ROM into the
CD-ROM drive, then type in:
D:\>SETUP.EXE (replace the D:\ with the appropriate drive letter of your CD-ROM).
If the Windows setup starts, then you're all set, the rest is real easy stuff!
If not, you may want to load up HIMEM.SYS. Copy that file to your newly built
computer's hard drive (get it from your current computer) and make a CONFIG.SYS
file that will load up that memory device.