the

Catvent
Sweater
Yarn
I used an An Caitin Dubh yarn advent calendar in DK
wool (40m / 20gr per skein.)

This sweater was designed with advent kits in mind, You can also use a 4ply yarn held double.
and uses 25 mini-skeins. As well as advents, it’s a great
pattern for making a good dent in your scrap pile - and
of course you can use one single colour or just a couple
Colour choices
of shades striped, instead of mini skeins.
You need a strong contrast between the main colour(s)
and CC1, to highlight your catty colourwork.
Choosing a yarn
CC2 (sleeve / hem / collar) doesn’t need a strong
This is a fairly yarn-agnostic pattern, and should work contrast with either the MC(s) or C1.
well with most DK or light-worsted weight yarns.
Wildly varying MC colours will distract from the catty
If you’re planning on steeking your sweater a wool colourwork, so it’s definitely worth swatching up a couple
yarn - ideally non-superwash - is best. If you’re not sure of stripes if you’re considering this.
how well your chosen yarn will steek try reinforcing and
steeking a swatch.

Yarn requirements
(metres)
size MC MC MC CC1 CC1 CC1 hem sleeves collar collar collar collar
short medium long short medium long cowl turtle crew boat

1 395 485 575 180 225 275 75 195 95 75 20 25

2 450 555 660 205 260 315 85 210 95 75 20 25
3 510 630 745 235 295 355 95 220 95 75 20 25
4 570 700 830 260 330 395 105 245 95 75 20 25
5 625 770 915 285 360 435 115 250 100 80 20 25
6 685 845 1000 310 395 475 125 265 100 80 20 25
7 745 915 1085 340 425 515 135 275 100 80 20 25

Yarn requirements include a 10% contingency to allow for swatching, and for small variations in tension.

Gauge
Colourwork: 21 sts/ 24 rows to 10cm
Stocking stitch: 21 sts/ 27 rows to 10cm.
Check your gauge on a washed, blocked swatch.
Getting the right gauge is crucial for a well-fitting sweater
- but if getting both row and stitch gauge proves difficult
you should prioritise the stitch gauge,.
small-circumference method in the size that give you
gauge. If you’re chosing to work the snugger neckline
or the elastic hem you’ll also need 40cm (neck) or 80cm
(hem) circular needles in one size below gauge. If you
like a snug wrist you may also want to drop down a
needle size to work the ribbing on the cuff.
I used 4.5 mm needles for the bulk of the knitting, plus
a 4mm needle when I wanted a snugger finish to the
ribbing.

Check your gauge over both colourwork and one-colour

Tools
stocking stitch - you may need to use a different needle
• Two stitchmarkers to indicate the beginning of the
size for the main (colourwork) body of the sweater.
round and centre of round.
• Four stitch markers to indicate the steeks , if you’re

Tools & needles •

steeking.
A tapestry needle for weaving in ends and making up
the shoulder seams.
Needles • Bulb pins or removable markers are really useful for
keeping track of sleeve decreases.
• 4-ply wool yarn for working the steek, if you’re
Circular needles in 40 and 80cm and your preferred
steeking.
 turtle neck

Variations cowl neck

It’s decision time!

This sweater comes with lots of options -
and you’ll have to commit to some of them
right at the start (sorry).

Neckline crew neck

There are wide and narrow necklines to

choose from - you’ll need to make this boat neck
decision up front.

There are also two collar styles to choose

from. Combined with the two widths that
gives you;
• cowl neck (wide neckline)
• turtle neck (narrow neckline)
• boat neck (wide neckline)
• crew neck (narrow neckline)
You’ll need to choose the neck width up
front, but you can decide on the collar style
when you come to knit it

short
Length
There are three lengths to choose from;

• cropped - waist-length. I love this style medium

layered over tunics, long shirts and
dresses
• regular - hip-skimming. This length is
perfect with jeans. long
• long - butt-covering. This makes for the
cosiest of sweater cocoons.

You can always adjust the length later on,

but if you’re working from a set of mini-
skeins you’ll need to know which size you’re
planning in advance, because the different
lengths use different striping patterns - you
should switch yarn every four rounds for the
shortest, five rounds for the medium and six
for the longest length.

Hem
There are instruction for both a wide and an
elastic hem.

I prefer a wide hem on a shorter sweater and

a more elastic hem on a longer one, but both
styles will work on all lengths. You don’t need
to decide on your hem style until you’re ready elastic hem
to knit it.
wide hem
Variations (continued) Sleeve length
It’s easy to adjust the sleeve length - just knit a little
Arm width longer, or stop a little sooner.

The arms of this sweater are fairly snug, with a couple of
centimetres of positive ease - perfect for layering over a
light top or two. They’re probably not quite wide enough
if you (like me) take layering as a challenge and pile on
every cardigan, sweater and shawl you can lay hands
one while refusing to turn the heating on.
If you’d like wider, looser sleeves work the Upper Cat
Chart to the break point of the next size up (or even the
size after that for even looser sleeves) before binding off
the steek stitches (steeked version) or joining the front
and back (unsteeked version).
When you come to pick up the sleeve stitches pick up
the number for the larger size, but follow the sleeve
decreases that correspond to the chest size you’ve
picked. And remember - you’ll need a little more yarn in
CC2 for your wider sleeves. If you’re worried that you
might be running low you could introduce some stripes
in leftover MC towards the end of your sleeves.
Measurements are given for a wrist to wrist
measurement, rather than from underarm to wrist. If
you’re measuring yourself from wrist to wrist with arms
outstertched add on 10cm to that measurement to allow
for the curves around your shoulders and elbows.
Steek it?
If you’d prefer not to steek your sweater you can knit the
front and back flat until the underarms, where you’ll join
to work in the round. Instructions for both steeked and
non-steeked sweaters are included here. You’ll need to
decide on your steeking choice at the start.
Colourwork is much easier when knitted in the round,
though, and steeking is not nearly as terrifying as its
reputation would suggest. If you’re brave but nervous
try working a steek through the middle of your tension
swatch (after you’ve measured it) and see how you get
on.

Sizing
This sweater is designed to be worn with
20 - 30cm of positive ease, for a loose,
boxy look.

Choose the chest measurement that

gives you the right amount of ease.

size chest wrist to length length length upper wrist neckline neckline
wrist (short) (medium) (long) arm (wide) (narrow)
(a) (b) (c) (c) (c) (d) (e) (f) (f)
1 100cm 155cm 47cm 57cm 67cm 25cm 19cm 57cm 46cm
2 115cm 157cm 47cm 57cm 67cm 28cm 21cm 57cm 46cm
3 130cm 159cm 47cm 57cm 67cm 32cm 23cm 57cm 46cm
4 145cm 160cm 47cm 57cm 67cm 37cm 26cm 57cm 46cm
5 160cm 161cm 47cm 57cm 67cm 41cm 29cm 61cm 50cm
6 175cm 163cm 47cm 57cm 67cm 47cm 32cm 61cm 50cm
7 190cm 165cm 47cm 57cm 67cm 51cm 35cm 61cm 50cm

Construction
This sweater is knit top down. You’ll cast on the
shoulders seperately, and then join to knit in the round
either just after the neck (steeked) or after the armholes
(unsteeked). After the body is complete you’ll sew up the
shoulders and pick up and knit the sleeves and collar.
Techniques
Stranded colourwork
In stranded colorwork you work with two strands of yarn,
knitting the active colour and carrying the other yarn
across the back of the work.
If you’re struggling to keep your floats relaxed and loose
stretching the last ten stitches or so of your worked
knitting along the right hand needle can help.
Yarn dominance
In a stranded knit one colour will be more prominent
while the other recedes to the background. The
prominent colour will be the one that strands underneath
the other colour.
Try to keep your upper and lower yarns consistent, both
for this reason and because if you don’t mix up the upper
and lower yarns they won’t twist around each other and
tangle.
For this sweater, I’d suggest keeping CC1 as the
dominant colour, stranding it underneath.
Managing long floats
Trapping longer floats behind a working stitch can
improve tension and also keep them from becoming
finger-traps.
Catching the upper yarn on the knit side
• Insert the needle into the next stitch.
• Wrap both yarns around the needle knitwise.
• Unwrap the upper yarn and work the stitch.
Catching the lower yarn on the knit side
• Insert the needle into the next stitch.
• Wrap the lower yarn around your needle in the
opposite direction to the usual method.
• Wrap the upper yarn around the needle in the usual
method.
• Unwrap the lower yarn and complete the stitch.
The colourwork in this sweater has very few long floats,
but you may want to trap floats around the sides.
Steeking
Don’t fear the steek! It’s a lot easier than trying to knit the
colourwork back and forth.
Swatch your steek
Knit a swatch (or take your gauge swatch) and try out
your preferred steek reinforcement on it. Block it, wash
it, mangle it a bit, let the cat play with it, and see how it
holds up. If it doesn’t survive your untender ministrations
try again, with a new reinforcement method. There’s
very little yarn that can’t be steeked with the right
reinforcement.
Know your yarn
Some yarn steeks better than others. A non-superwash
wool will steek very well. A slippery non-wool yarn will
need a very sturdy reinforcement. Most other yarns come
somewhere in between; a superwash wool will probably
be grand with a crochet reinforcement, for example.
Steeking a swatch or two will help you find the best
method for your yarn.
Steeking yarn
You don’t need to use the same yarn to work the steek -
and for this sweater I’d recommend using a thinner yarn
to avoid adding bulk. 4-ply is perfect. The yarn you use
to reiinforce the steek is also important, and a woolly,
sticky non-superwash yarn can really help to stabilise
your steek.
Reinforcement options
Just cut
The stickiest of wools don’t always need a reinforcement.
Needle felting
Stabbing up and down your steek stitches with a needle
felting tool can be enough to stabilise it. This method
works best on non-superwash wool yarn.
Crochet steek
This involves working a crochet chain on the stitches
either side of the place you’ll be cutting. Using a crochet
hook a few sizes down from your needle size, and using
a non-superwash yarn to work the chain can both help to
make this steek sturdier. This method usually works well
on superwash wools.
Machine-sewn steek
The sturdiest of steeks! This method involves running
the stitches on each side of your steek through a sewing
machine a few times, and can stabilise even slippery
yarns.
Picking up and knitting Abbreviations
Identify where you’re picking up the stitches from - this
cc1 - contrasting colour for colourwork
will be between the last steek stitch and the first stitch
cc2 - contrast colour for hem, sleeves and neck
of the body for the steeked sweater, or between the first
EOR - end of round
and second stitch for the unsteeked version.
k - knit
k2tog - knit two together
Using a long circular needle, slide the needle up the little
kfb - knit into the front and back of one stitch
gap between the stitches, scooping it under the first
m - marker
three stitches and skipping over the fourth. Continue
mc1 to mc25 - main colour
picking up three of every four stitches until the whole
p - purl
buttonband is picked up. Now count your stitches, and
pfb - purl into the front and back of one stitch
adjust the spacing at either end to gain or lose a few
rem(s) - remain(s)
stitches if you need to.
rs - right side
ssk - slip slip knit - slip two stitches knitwise, one at a
With the right side of the knitting facing you, knit the first
time, to the right needle, Insert the left needle through
row into the back of each picked up stitch. Now you’re
the front of the two slipped stitches and knit together
ready to start working the buttonband.
sm - slip marker
st(s) - stitch(es)
Stretchy bind off for 2x2 ribbing ws - wrong side

This bind off gives a decent amount of stretch and

elasticity, and it looks very neat.

Work the first stitch in pattern. Slip it back to the left

needle. If the next stitch is a knit stitch, knit it and the
slipped stitch together. If the next stitch is a purl stitch,
purl it and the slipped stitch together through the back
loop.

Shoulder seam
Thread a tapesry needle with the MC1 yarn set aside for
seaming.

Hold the cast on edges together, with the right side

facing you. Working from the right, pass the needle
through the first sttich on the top, and then through the
first stitch on the pull. Pull snugly, but not too tight, and
repeat.
Instructions - steeked sweater
Wide neckline
Sweater shoulders - work two
Using MC1 and gauge sized needles, cast on [47, 63
79, 95, 107, 123, 139] sts.
Row one: K [21, 29, 37, 45, 51, 59, 67] sts, place steek
marker, k5, place steek marker, k to end.
Row two: P1, pfb, p until 2 sts rem, pfb, p1.
Row three: K to end.
Row four: P1, pfb, p until 2 sts rem, pfb, p1.
[51, 67 83, 99, 111, 127, 143] sts
Break yarn and set aside the first shoulder when you’ve
completed it.
Join the shoulders
Turn back and knit across the shoulder you’ve just
completed - this will be the left side.
Cast on [57, 57, 57, 57, 61, 61, 61] back neck sts.
Join and knit across the other completed shoulder,
taking care that the RS of the work is facing you.
If using mini-skeins, break yarn and set aside MC1; you’ll
need a little later to seam the shoulders.
Start the cats!
Bringing in CC1 and if you’re using mini-skeins,
switching MC2, knit Catvent Beginnings chart [A, A, A, A,
B, B, B] starting with a WS row.
Cast on [49, 49, 49, 49, 53, 53, 53] front neck sts.
[216, 248, 280, 312, 344, 376, 408] sts
Both necklines -steeked sweater
Break yarn. Join to work in the round and slip purlwise
until you reach the steek marker. Slip marker, and slip
two stitches further. Place the EOR marker.
Knit one round.
Keep on catting!
Work from the Upper Cats chart. If you’re working from
mini-skeins make sure that you’re switching colour every
(4, 5, 6) rounds, depending on chosen length. Continue
until you reach the marked END round for your chosen
size
Narrow neckline
Sweater shoulders - work two
Using MC1 and gauge sized needles, cast on [59, 75, 91,
107, 119, 135, 151] sts.
Row one: K [27, 35, 43, 51, 57, 65, 73] sts, place steek
marker, k5, place steek marker, k to end.
Row two: P1, pfb, p until 2 sts rem, pfb, p1.
Row three: K to end.
Row four: P1, pfb, p until 2 sts rem, pfb, p1.
[63, 79, 95, 111, 123, 139, 155] sts.
Break yarn and set aside the first shoulder when you’ve
completed it.
Join the shoulders
Turn back and knit across the shoulder you’ve just
completed - this will be the left side.
Cast on [45, 45, 45, 45, 49, 49, 49] back neck sts.
Join and knit across the other completed shoulder,
taking care that the RS of the work is facing you.
If using mini-skeins, break yarn and set aside MC1; you’ll
need a little later to seam the shoulders.
Start the cats!
Bringing in CC1 and if you’re using mini-skeins,
switching MC2, knit Catvent Beginnings chart [B, B, B,
B, C, C, C], starting with a WS row.
Cast on [37, 37, 37, 37, 41, 41, 41] front neck sts.
[216, 248, 280, 312, 344, 376, 408] sts
Work the END round as charted, binding off the five
steek stitches on each side of the sweater as you reach
them.
Switch to the Middle Cats chart. Begin working from this
chart at the START round for your chosen size.
Cast on two stitches, and place the EOR marker in the
centre of these. Work your first round of the Middle Cats
until you reach the bound-off stitches on the other side.
Cast on two stitches here and place the side marker in
the centre of these two stitches. Follow the chart to the
end of the round.
[210, 242, 274, 306, 338, 370, 402] sts
Instructions - unsteeked sweater - wide neckline
Sweater back
Back right shoulder - work one
Using MC1 and gauge sized needles, cast on [22, 30, 38,
46, 52, 60, 68] sts.
Row one: Knit.
Row two: P until 2 sts rem, pfb, p1.
Row three: Knit.
Row four: P until 2 sts rem, pfb, p1.
[24, 32, 40, 48, 54, 62, 70] sts.
Break yarn and set aside.
Back left shoulder - work one
Using MC1 and gauge sized needles, cast on [22, 30, 38,
46, 52, 60, 68] sts.
Row one: Knit.
Row two: P1, pfb, to end
Row three: Knit.
Row four: P1, pfb to end.
[24, 32, 40, 48, 54, 62, 70] sts.
Join the shoulders
Turn back and knit across the back left shoulder you’ve
just completed.
Cast on [57, 57, 57, 57, 61, 61, 61] back neck sts.
Join and knit across the back right shoulder, taking care
that the RS of the work is facing you.
[105, 121, 137, 153, 169, 185, 201] sts.
Start the cats!
Bringing in CC1 and if you’re using mini-skeins,
switching to MC2, knit the Catvent Beginnings back
chart and then the Upper Cats chart. If you’re working
from mini-skeins make sure that you’re switching colour
every (4, 5, 6) rows, depending on chosen length.
Continue until you reach the marked END row for your
chosen size. Set aside.
Sweater front
Left front shoulder - work one
Using MC1 and gauge sized needles, cast on [22, 30, 38,
46, 52, 60, 68] sts.
Row one: Knit.
Row two: P until 2 sts rem, pfb, p1.
Row three: Knit.
Row two: P until 2 sts rem, pfb, p1.
Row five: Knit.
[24, 32, 40, 48, 54, 62, 70] sts.
Start the cats (again)!
Bringing in CC1 and if you’re using mini-skeins,
switching to MC2, knit Catvent Beginnings chart [A, A, A,
A, B, B, B] Left side starting with a WS row. Break yarn
and set aside.
Right front shoulder - work one
Using MC1 and gauge sized needles, cast on [22, 30, 38,
46, 52, 60, 68] sts.
Row one: Knit.
Row two: P1, pfb, p to end
Row three: Knit.
Row four: P1, pfb, p to end.
Row five: Knit.
[24, 32, 40, 48, 54, 62, 70] sts.
If using mini-skeins, break yarn and set aside MC1; you’ll
need a little later to seam the shoulders.
Start the cats (yet again)!
Bringing in CC1 and if you’re using mini-skeins,
switching to MC2, knit Catvent Beginnings chart [A, A, A,
A, B, B, B] Right side starting with a WS row.
Join the shoulders
Cast on [49, 49, 49, 49, 53, 53, 53] front neck sts. Break
yarn.
Slipping stitches purlwise, move the front left shoulder
onto your needle, taking care that the RS of the work is
facing you.
[105, 121, 137, 153, 169, 185, 201] sts.
Keep on catting!
Rejoin your yarn and work the Upper Cats chart. If
you’re working from mini-skeins make sure that you’re
switching colour every (4, 5, 6) rows, depending on
chosen length. Continue until you reach the marked END
row for your chosen size.
Instructions - unsteeked sweater - narrow neckline
Sweater back [30, 38, 46, 54, 60, 68, 76] sts.

Start the cats (again)!

Back right shoulder - work one
Bringing in CC1 and if you’re using mini-skeins,
Using MC1 and gauge sized needles, cast on [28, 36, 44, switching to MC2, knit Catvent Beginnings chart [B, B, B,
52, 58, 66, 74] sts. B, C, C, C] Left side starting with a WS row. Break yarn
and set aside.
Row one: Knit.
Row two: P until 2 sts rem, pfb, p1.
Row three: Knit.
Right front shoulder - work one
Row four: P until 2 sts rem, pfb, p1.
Using MC1 and gauge sized needles, cast on [28, 36, 44,
[30, 38, 46, 54, 60, 68, 76] sts.
52, 58, 66, 74] sts.
Break yarn and set aside.
Row one: Knit.
Row two: P1, pfb, p to end
Back left shoulder - work one Row three: Knit.
Row four: P1, pfb, p to ehd.
Using MC1 and gauge sized needles, cast on [28, 36, 44, Row 4: knit
52, 58, 66, 74] sts. [30, 38, 46, 54, 60, 68, 76] sts.
If using mini-skeins, break yarn and set aside MC1; you’ll
Row one: Knit. need a little later to seam the shoulders.
Row two: P1, pfb, to end
Row three: Knit. Start the cats (yet again)!
Row four: p1, pfb to end.
[30, 38, 46, 54, 60, 68, 76] sts.
Bringing in CC1 and if you’re using mini-skeins,
switching to MC2, knit Catvent Beginnings chart [B, B, B,
Join the shoulders B, C, C, C] Right side starting with a WS row.

Turn back and knit across the back left shoulder you’ve
just completed.
Join the shoulders

Cast on [37, 37, 37, 37, 41, 41, 53] front neck sts.
Cast on [45, 45, 45, 45, 49, 49, 49] back neck sts.
Slipping stitches purlwise, move the front left shoulder
Join and knit across the back right shoulder, taking care
onto your needle, taking care that the RS of the work is
that the RS of the work is facing you.
facing you.
[105, 121, 137, 153, 169, 185, 201] sts.
[105, 121, 137, 153, 169, 185, 201] sts.
Start the cats!

Bringing in CC1 and if you’re using mini-skeins,

Keep on catting!
switching to MC2, knit the Catvent Beginnings back
Rejoin your yarn and work the Upper Cats chart, starting
chart and then the Upper Cats chart. If you’re working
on WS row 0. If you’re working from mini-skeins make
from mini-skeins make sure that you’re switching colour
sure that you’re switching colour every (4, 5, 6) rows,
every (4, 5, 6) rows, depending on chosen length.
depending on chosen length. Continue until you reach
Continue until you reach the marked END row for your
the marked END row for your chosen size.
chosen size. Break yarn and set aside.

Sweater front Both necklines- unsteeked sweater

Left front shoulder - work one Joining front and back

Using MC1 and gauge sized needles, cast on [28, 36, 44, Work the END row as charted across the front, place
52, 58, 66, 74] sts. side marker, work the END row as charted across the
back, place EOR marker.
Row one: Knit. [210, 242, 274, 306, 338, 370, 402] sts
Row two: P until 2 sts rem, pfb, p1.
Row three: Knit. Join to work in the round and switch to the Middle Cats
Row four: P until 2 sts rem, pfb, p1. chart. Begin working from this chart at the START round
Row 5: Knit. for your chosen size.
Instructions - all options
Lower body
Continue working the Middle Cats chart until you reach
the end.
After completing the Middle Cats chart switch to the
Lower Cats chart for your chosen length, and work the
whole of the chart.
If you’re working with mini-skeins, remember to switch
yarn every (4, 5, 6) rounds.
Hem
Elastic hem.
Switch to below-gauge needles, and using MC2.
Setup round
P1, k2tog, k to one before side-marker, p1, remove
marker, p1, k2tog, k to one before EOR marker, p1.
Ribbing
• P1, (k2, p2) until 3 sts rem, k2, p1.
Work a total of eleven rounds of ribbing.
Bind off using an elastic bind off method.
Steek the armholes
Steekers! Now is the time to reinforce and cut the
armhole steeks. See Techniques for details.
Shoulder seams:
Using MC1, seam the sweater shoulders.
Sleeves
Pick up armhole stitches
Using CC2 and your preferred small-gauge needles, and
starting from the base of the sleeve, pick up and knit
[52, 60, 68, 78, 88, 98, 108] stitches evenly around the
armhole. Place a marker to indicate the start of round.
Wide hem.
Continue working with gauge-sized needles, and using
MC2.
Broken rib set up
• Round one: P1, k2tog, k to one before side-marker,
p1, slm, p1, k2tog, k to one before EOR marker, p1.
• Round two: P1, (k2, p2) until 3 sts before side
marker, k2, p1, slm, p2 (k2, p2) until 3 sts before
EOR marker, k2, p1.
Broken rib
• Round one: P1, k to one before side-marker, p1, slm,
p1, k to one before EOR marker, p1.
• Round two: P1, (k2, p2) until 3 sts before side
marker, k2, p1, slm, p2 (k2, p2) until 3 sts before
EOR marker, k2, p1.
Work the two rounds of broken rib five times in total.
Bind off using an elastic bind off method.
Sleeve decrease
• Knit [16, 12, 8, 6, 4, 4, 3] rounds.
• Decrease round: K1, ssk, k to 3 before marker,
k2tog, k1.
Work the sleeve decrease a total of [6, 8, 10, 11, 14, 15,
18] times. [40, 44, 48, 56, 60, 68, 72] sts.
Knit until sleeve measures [46, 43, 40, 38, 35, 32, 29]
from shoulder, or until your desired sleeve length,
allowing for a 5cm cuff.
Cuff
• Ribbing: K2, p2 to end
Work a total of 12 rounds of ribbing,
Bind off using an elastic bind off method.
Instructions - all options
Neck
Work the neck with a 40cm circular needle in either
gauge-sized (cowl or turtle neck) or below-gauge (crew
or boat neck)

Using CC2, and starting from the centre back, pick up

and knit [116, 116, 116, 116, 124, 124, 124] sts if working
the wider neckline, or [92, 92, 92, 92, 100, 100, 100] sts if
working the narrower neckline.

Ribbing: (K2, p2) to end.

Work six rounds of ribbing for the crew or boat neck.

Work ribbing until collar measures 12cm for the cowl or

turtle neck.

Bind off using an elastic bind off method.

Finishing
Weave in all ends.

Block your sweater to the dimensions shown in the size

chart. For the cowl neck, stretch and pin the collar and
let it dry under tension for maximum floppiness.

And you’re done!

Charts - Catvent Beginnings charts
Note: check you’re working from the
correct chart for your chosen size &
neckline

Catvent Beginnings chart - steeked sweater

Catvent beginnings - chart A

Catvent beginnings - chart B

Catvent beginnings - chart C

Catvent Beginnings chart - unsteeked

sweater
Catvent beginnings - chart A

Left side Right side

Catvent beginnings - chart B

Left side
Right side

Catvent beginnings - chart C

Left side Right side

Catvent beginnings - back

Charts - Upper Cats charts

Upper Cats chart - steeked sweater Upper Cats chart - unsteeked sweater
Charts - Middle Cats chart
Charts - Lower Cats charts

Lower Cats chart - short sweater Lower Cats chart - long sweater

Lower Cats chart - medium sweater

Show off your knits! Problems?
I’d love to see what you make! Tag your WIP shots and email support@ancaitinbeag.zendesk.com
FO pics with #catventsweater
Credits
Contact
Pattern by Marna Gilligan
email: hello@caitinbeag.com Technical editing Charlotte Monckton
website: https://caitinbeag.com Feline assistance Atari Teenage Kitten
instagram: @ancaitinbeag
© 2021 Marna Gilligan / An Caitín Beag