THE CUISINE OF KASHMIR

Historical & Geographical Influence:

Kashmiri cuisine has evolved over hundreds of years. The first major
influence was the food of the Kashmiri Buddhists and Pandits, the Hindus of
the valley. The cuisine was then influenced by the cultures which arrived with
the invasion of Kashmir by Timur from the region of modern Uzbekistan.
Subsequently, it has been strongly influenced by the cuisines of Central
Asian, Persia, and the North Indian plains.

The most notable ingredient in Kashmir cuisine is mutton, of which there are
over 30 varieties. Also to be noted are curries, that were originally brought
by Pakistani immigrants hailing from the Baltistan region of Pakistan-
administered Kashmir.

The foodstuff of the state is characterised by three different styles of

cooking the Kashmiri Pandit, the Muslims and the Rajput styles. Though they
eat meat, surprisingly, many traditional Kashmiri Pandits don't include garlic
and onion to their cooking.

One of the distinct characteristics of Kashmiri cuisine is the use of curds in

the cooking, giving the dishes a creamy consistency. Kashmiris also use
asafoetida (Hing) to add flavour to their meat dishes. Saunf (aniseed) and dry
ginger are other additive spices used tastefully to enhance the taste of the
cuisines. For example some dishes become pungent not because of the use of
chillies, but because of dry gingers.

Few other dishes have no spice except a little saunf added to them for
flavour. Being the home of saffron, the colourful flavouring agent is used in
the pulaos and sweets.

Dry fruits are often used in the Kashmiri curries. Walnuts, almonds and
raisins are also added to the curries. Ghee is the medium of cooking,
 probably because the fat is required to impart heat to the body, though
mustard oil is also used.

Some of the better known dishes are yakhni, tabaq naat, which is an exotic
dish made of fried ribs and decorated with silver varq, dum aloo, rogan josh,
gaustaba which is a light meatball, haleem which is meat pounded with wheat,
etc

Kashmir has developed its own specialties in cooking - its cuisine is unique.
Locally grown varieties of rice are sweetly fragrant and very light. All the
dishes are built around the main course of rice. The delicious saag, is made
from thick-leafed green leafy vegetable called 'hak' that grows throughout
the year. Lotus root is also an important produce for boat dwelling people
and makes a very good substitute for meat.

Fresh vegetables are used in season. Morel mushrooms called as 'guhchi' are
harvested and consumed fresh in summer. They are expensive therefore used
only for specific occasions such as religious and wedding feasts. Their hearty
flavor enlivens pilafs and other meatless dishes. Corn bread is an
alternative for rice.

The tea in Kashmir is not the one taken by most Indians, rather it is spice
scented green tea called "kahava" poured from a samovar, a large metal
kettle.

Streams and lakes have influenced the Kashmiri cuisine. Fresh fish is a
favorite. Myriad meat dishes are served during the traditional feasts. Lamb
and poultry are served as accompaniments. Smoked meat, dried fish and
vegetables are stored for use in winter.

A special masala 'cake' is made from spice-blends, onions and locally grown
chilies that can be stored for longer period of time and used in flavoring
curries. Sauces are made from dairy rich products. Kashmiri fare is also
influenced by the mughal cooking. The fruits and nuts grown from the valley
are used lavishly in daily menus.
Kashmiri Muslim Cuisine – Wazwan:

Wazwan, a multi-course meal in the Kashmiri tradition, is treated with great

respect. Its preparation is considered an art. Almost all the dishes are meat-
based (lamb, chicken, fish, beef). It is considered a sacrilege to serve any
dishes based around pulses or lentils during this feast. The traditional number
of courses for the wazwan is thirty-six, though there can be fewer. The
preparation is traditionally done by a vasta waza, or head chef, with the
assistance of a court of wazas, or chefs.

Wazwan is regarded by the Kashmiri Muslims as a core element of their

culture and identity. Guests are grouped into fours for the serving of the
wazwan. The meal begins with invoking the name of Allah and a ritual washing
of hands, as a jug and basin called the tash-t-nari are passed among the
guests. A large serving dish piled high with heaps of rice, decorated and
quartered by four seekh kababs, four pieces of meth maaz, two tabak maaz,
sides of barbecued ribs, and one safed kokur, one zafrani kokur, along with
other dishes. The meal is accompanied by yoghurt garnished with Kashmiri
saffron, salads, Kashmiri pickles and dips. The feast ends with an elder
leading the thanksgiving to Allah, which is heard with rapt attention by
everyone. Kashmiri Wazwan is generally prepared in marriages and other
special functions. The culinary art is learnt through heredity and is rarely
passed to outside blood relations. That has made certain waza/cook families
very prominent. The wazas remain in great demand during the marriage season
(May - October).

Some Main Dishes:

· Maithi maaz
· Rista (meatballs in a fiery red gravy)
· Lahabi Kabab or Moachi Kabab (flattened mutton kababs cooked in
yogurt)
· Waza Kokur (two halves or two full chicken cooked whole)
· Daeni Phoul (mutton dish)
· Doudha Ras (mutton cooked in sweet milk gravy)
· Rogan Josh (tender lamb cooked with Kashmiri spices)
 · Tabak Maaz (ribs of lamb simmered in yogurt till tender, then fried,
can be served as a snack/side-dish)
· Daniwal Korma (a mutton curry with lots of coriander)
· Waza Palak (green spinach cooked with small pounced mutton balls
known as Paliki Riste)
· Aab Gosht (spicy lamb curry)
· Marchwangan Korma (an extremely spicy lamb preparation)
· Kabab (minced meat roasted on skewers over hot coals)
· Gushtaba (a velvety textured meatball in white yogurt gravy,a
specialty)
· Yakhni (delicately spiced yogurt curry)
· Ruwangan Chaman (Cheese squares with Tomato gravy)
· Dum Oluv (potatoes cooked in yogurt gravy)
· Nadir Yakhn (lotus stem in a delicate yogurt sauce)
· Hakh(with nadir/vangan) (a local variety of greens)
· Nadir Palak (lotus stem with spinach)
· Muji Chetintin (a sharp radish and walnut chutney)
· Phirni (a dessert of semolina thickened in milk set in earthenware cups
with nuts and "varq"-silver leaf)

Kashmiri Pandit cuisine:

Kashmiri Pandit food is also very elaborate, and is an important part of the
Pandits' ethnic identity. The food usually uses a lot of yogurt, oils and spices
as such turmeric, but avoids onion, garlic, tomatoes, and chicken. Unlike
Kashmiri Muslim cuisine, it does not include many minced meat dishes.

An equal emphasis is laid on vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes, although a

bias for non-vegetarian dishes certainly exists - Pandits, a knowledge based
community, having origins in a collective multi caste based scholar society,
including Brahmins. Kashmiri Pandit is a community, not a caste. The
philosophy of Kashmir Shaivism does not promote caste, it welcome all peoples
into its philosophy group. Nund Rishi and Lalleshwari, the patron saints of
Kashmir, have been vegetarians and loved nature in all its forms.
Typical vegetarian dishes include:

· Ladyar Tsaman (Indian Cheese in Turmeric)

· Veth tsaman (Indian Cheese, cooked in oil and Kashmiri spices)
· Dama oluv (Potato)
· Nadeir yakhean (Lotus Stem)
· Hak (with nadeir/vangan)
· Nadier palak
· Tsoek vangan
· Razmah goagji

Typical non-vegetarian are similar to Muslim dishes, but vary in taste, such as:

· Rogan josh
· Syun Qaliya
· Matshgand
· Syun Oluv
· Yakhein
· Kabargah
· Tsoek Tsarvan
· Gaad (Fish, cooked with Nadur or Monju or Muj[mooli])

There are also some other mutton dishes, cooked by the Kashmiri Pandits who
migrated to the Indo-Gangetic Plain in the eighteenth and nineteenth
centuries. These dishes also do not traditionally use any onions, garlic,
chicken, or egg. Yogurt (zamud dod / dahi), asafoetida (angedan / hing), dried
ginger (sonth), cinnamon (dalchini), cardamoms (elaichi), and cloves (laung)
form the base of any gravy. The meat is roasted in the fat of the yogurt. The
major difference between these dishes and those of the other Kashmiri
Pandit families is that these dishes are drier, use less fennel (saunf), and in
some cases, less yogurt. Besides, the meat is roasted for a longer duration,
and there seems to be a fairly strong influence of the cooking style of the
Muslims of Awadh.

Rice is the prime cereal. However, sweet wheat breads are also eaten. These
include Roath, Sheermal, and Khameeri Puri. Bazbatta is a vegetable pilaf,
commonly eaten at home with Koftey / Mats. Sarvari is a chickpea pilaf
prepared on special occasions, including Navreh (Navroz / Nowruz) and
birthdays.

Popular desserts include Phirni, Shufta, Panjeeri, Shakar Pareh, Gulab Jamun,
Laddoo, Barfi, Kasaar, and Sevaiyyan.

Kashmiri Beverages:

Nun Chai

Kashmiris are heavy tea drinkers. The most popular drink is a pinkish coloured
salted tea called nun chai (or shir chai). It is made with black tea, milk, salt
and bicarbonate of soda. The peculiar colour of the tea is a result of its
unique method of preparation and the addition of soda. This salted tea is very
much like the salted tea prevalent in various parts of Central Asia.

Nun chai is a common breakfast tea in Kashmiri households and is taken with
breads like baqerkhani brought fresh from the bakers (kandur). Often, this
tea is served in a large Samovars.

Kahwah

At marriage feasts, festivals, and religious places, it is customary to serve

Kahwah, or Qahwah (originates from a 14th century Arab coffee,which, in
turn, was named after an ancient beverage of the sufis.) - a green tea made
with saffron, spices and almonds or walnuts. Over 20 varieties of Kahwah are
prepared in different households. Some people also put milk in kahwah (half
milk + half kahwah).

Preparation Methods for Kashmiri Cooking:

Methods of preparing dishes are important. In Kashmiri cuisine too, the same
rules apply. Kashmiries have their own means of preparing foods, and one of
their important methods employed includes seasoning and marinating meat.
This is an important step, and the period for marinating and seasoning
depends on the type of texture and taste you want your cooked food to
develop.

Many of the methods of preparation, such as marinating meat have come from
India. The use of spices to season and marinate meats especially is from
India. Also, the introduction of certain spices in the marinating process is
important too. The use of herbs is also important in preparation.

When meats such as mutton are marinated or seasoned they produced the
best taste for Kashmiri dishes. This method also allows the meat to soften,
and sometimes this method is employed to overnight cooking.

Wazawan preparation is the formal method, and believed to be one of the

best as well. Much of the 36-course meal is cooked after being seasoned and
marinated. This is due to the fact that much of the meal contains chicken,
mutton and even fish.

As an example, one of the portions of this meal includes the rista, which
means meatballs. These are made of finely pounded mutton. These meatballs
are cooked in gravy. Also, seekh kababs and tabak maz that are cut from the
rib portion and then fried are seasoned too.

In addition to the above-mentioned dishes being seasoned and marinated,

there are others as well that are treated in the same way. Kababs that are
marinated over night may also be served the next day. Their taste improves
over night, as the texture and taste of the mutton improve. In Kashmiri
cuisine, this main method cannot be ignored, and if these methods of
preparation are not followed, the food produced will not have the same taste.

Special Equipment for Kashmiri Cooking:

Curd and chutney are served seperately in small earthen pots.

Preparing any kind of food requires the use of cooking equipment that can
possibly be the best and most convenient to use. In Balouchi cuisine, there are
several kinds of utensils used for cooking. Each of these has a particular
purpose for making things more convenient in cooking.
Generally, you may use almost ant utensil you wish, but there are particular
ones that you need for certain things. Let’s say you need to marinate mutton.
Now, doing so using a stainless steel utensil will do just fine. However, you
would rather marinate mutton in an earthenware utensil. This would be for
two reasons. The first is that the mutton is kept cool in it, and secondly it has
a better taste and texture.

In addition to using earthenware to marinate foods, you may need some other
vessels such as a boiling vessel for boiling rice and other foods.

One other important cooking apparatus is the tawa. A tawa is used to fry food
or cook chapatti or parhatta. Generally though naans and kulchas are more
common in Balouchi cuisine, cooking them requires you to have an oven or a
kiln. Generally speaking, kilns are common in Balouchistan. People even have
them in their homes on order to cook their naans and kulchas.

Kashmiri Food Traditions and Festivals:

Festive times in Kashmir bring out the best of Kashmiri cuisine. Ina addition
to the crisp vegetables, fresh fruits, and dry fruits, there is a range of
delicious non-vegetarian food items. Meat-based dishes take hours and hours
of preparation. Some of them that are cooked in mustard oil or ghee are left
to reach their best taste over a very slow fire. While this takes place, fennel,
dry ginger, saffron and red chilies are added.

Generally, there are two ways of preparing dishes in Kashmir; the Pandit way
and the Muslim way. However, both are interesting and have their own
delicious tastes. This is why Kashmiri food has a wide variety to offer, and
their methods of cooking have also been widened with experiences from both
sides.

At festive times, you will find Mush Kalari, which is a tribal cottage cheese
cake. This is usually fried and served along with green pepper and salt. There
is also the Tabak Maaz. This is lamb spare ribs that are cooked in milk. These
are also fried before being served
Another real treat is Karela Yakni and Haq, which are served throughout the
year in Kashmir. Haq is actually whole greens cooked in clear mustard oil and
water too.

Gushtaba is supposed to be the last meal on a meal course. This is made of

mutton that is pounded for several hours. It is then formed into balls and
then mixed in yoghurt sauce, and cooked over a gentle flame.

Although there aren’t many vegetarians in Kashmir, this explains why meats
are so commonly cooked and consumed. Kashmiri cuisine is truly a delight with
its wide range of foods though vegetarian dishes may be a handful.

Vernon Coelho

Ihm Mumbai

2010-2011