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20/11/2023 14:03 Free Crochet Goat Pattern - mycrochetchums

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#stashbusterchums - No 50 - Goat
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No 50 - Goat

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Yarn
POWERED BY
Scheepjes Catona 4ply, 100% Cotton. 125m per 50g

MC: 45g approx of Champagne (248) for Body, Head, Arms, Legs, Tail and Ears.
CC1: 15g approx of Bridal White (105) for Head, Face Patch, Belly Patch, Head Tuft, and Beard.
CC2: 10g approx of Root Beer (157) for Arms, Legs and Horns.
CC3: Small amount of Black Coffee (162) for Eyes and Embroidered Nose/Mouth.

A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so body parts hold their shape well.
Catona is a relatively thick 4 ply (US: Sport) - you can substitute a DK Cotton (US: DK/Light Worsted) with a similar amount of metres
per 50g.

Hook
3 mm

Tension
24 sts x 27 rows = 10cm measured over dc using 3mm hook.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing through.

Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.

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Approx 23 cm (9 in) tall.

.Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral without slip stitching or turning chains.
The Face Patch and Belly Patch are worked in turned rows.

Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.

If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then work the first round into the second
chain from the hook.

If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.

The Goat is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece by pulling the yarn through the
last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end can be easily woven in.

UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations


This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please familiarise yourself with the UK terms to
avoid your character’s shape distorting!
The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US terms is single crochet - if you are
used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the
finished item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.

If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK Crochet terms used HERE.
Sign up to the Mailing List at the top of the page to access free printable PDF versions of this pattern in UK or US terms.

Increasing and decreasing


You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish, invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.

Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.


Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both front loops, yrh, draw through two
loops on hook.

Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.


Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.

POWERED BY

Goat - Right Side Goat - Left Side

Body
Worked from the bottom upwards. Stuff as you go.

Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

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Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
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Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
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Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 20-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
​Rnds 23-24: Dc around.
Rnd 25: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnds 26-30: Dc around.
Rnd 31: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts

Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Body to the Head once you've finished making all the parts.

Head
Worked from the front back. Stuff as you go.

Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 12-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 18: 7 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] 3 times, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 42 sts
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Rnd 19: 8 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, [2 dc in next st, 6 dc] 3 times, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 48 sts
Rnds 20-21: Dc around.
Rnd 22: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 27: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 28: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 29: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 30: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts

Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.

Ears - make 2
Do not stuff.

Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts


Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 3 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 5: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc] twice. 12 sts

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Rnd 6: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
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Rnds 7-12: Dc around.
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Rnd 13: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnds 14-15: Dc around.

Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Ears to the Head once you have finished making all the parts.

Horns - make 2
Stuff as you go.

Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts
Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: 1 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 3 dc. 8 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 4 dc. 10 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 5 dc. 12 sts
Rnd 9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: 4 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 6 dc. 14 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.

Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Horns to the Head once you've finished making all the parts.

Face Patch
Made flat in turned rows. Worked from the front of the Face Patch back.The turning chains are not included in the stitch count.

With CC1, chain 7.


Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, 6 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 6 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 4 sts
Rows 4-6: 1 ch, 4 dc. Turn. 4 sts
Row 7: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 6 sts
​Row 8: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 9: 1 ch, 8 dc. Turn. 8 sts
Row 10: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 11: 1 ch, 6 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 12: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc2tog, 1 dc. 4 sts

Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Face Patch to the Head once you've finished making all the parts.

Head Tuft
POWERED BY

Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in BLO for whole round, 2 dc in each st around. Turn. 12 sts
Rnd 3: Having turned, work [6 ch, 1 sl st] in each st back round Rnd 2 and then the same into each of the unused loops of Rnd 1 back
to the start of that round.

Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Head Tuft onto the Head once you've finished making all the parts.

Beard
Rnd 1: *With CC1, chain 6. Starting in second ch from hook, 5 sl st down the chain.** Do not fasten off, repeat from * to ** 6 more times
then sl st in very first ch to make a ring.

Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Beard onto the Head once you've finished making all the parts.

Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC3 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st into first dc to join. 4 sts

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Fasten off. leave a long yarn tail to sew the Eyes onto the Head once you've finished making all the parts.
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Belly Patch
Made flat in turned rows. The turning chains are not included in the stitch count.

With CC1, chain 7.


Row 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, 6 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 8 sts
Row 3: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 6 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 10 sts
Row 4: 1 ch, 2 dc in next st, 8 dc, 2 dc in next st. Turn. 12 sts
Rows 5-8: 1 ch, 12 dc. Turn. 12 sts
Row 9: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 6 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 10 sts
Rows 10-11: 1 ch, 10 dc. Turn. 10 sts
Row 12: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 8 sts
Rows 13-14: 1 ch, 8 dc. Turn. 8 sts
Row 15: 1 ch, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 16: 1 ch, 6 dc. Turn. 6 sts
Row 17: 1 ch, 1 dc, 2 dc2tog, 1 dc. Turn. 4 sts
Row 18: 1 ch, 2 dc2tog. 2 sts

Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Belly Patch to the Body once you've finished making all the parts.

Arms - make 2
Stuff as you go.

Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: Working in the BLO for the whole round, dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 6: Dc around.
Change to MC.
Rnds 7-8: Dc around.
Rnd 9: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnds 10-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 14-17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 3 times. 6 sts
Rnds 19-21: Dc around.

Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Arms to the Body once you've finished making all the parts.

POWERED BY

Legs - make 2
Stuff as you go.

Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [2 dc in next st, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc in next st, 4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 24 sts
​Rnd 5: Working in the BLO for the whole round, dc around.
Rnd 6: 5 dc, 2 dc2tog, 4 dc, 2 dc2tog, 7 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 18 sts
Change to MC.
Rnds 9-11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnds 13-16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: [1 dc2tog, 3 dc] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 18-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 22-23: Dc around.

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Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew the Legs to the Body once you've finished making all the parts.
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Tail
Stuff as you go.

Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts


Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 5 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc in next st, 4 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 4: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 5: 2 dc in next st, 6 dc. 8 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.

Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail to sew Tail to Body once you've made all the parts.

Goat - Face detail Goat - Beard detail

Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make sure you’re happy with the
positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.

Start with the Head. The colour change at the end of Rnd 11 indicates the underside of the Head. Sew the Beard to the underside of
the Head, roughly in line with Rnd 5.

With the Beard facing down, sew the Body to the underside of the Head - the front of the neck should sit roughly in line with Rnd 17 of
the Head.
POWERED BY

Sew the Face Patch to the top of the Head, centred in line with the Body. The first Row of the Face Patch lines up with Rnd 11 of the
Head.

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Goat - Back Goat - Base
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​Sew the Head Tuft to the top
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the Face Patch.

Sew the Horns either side of the Head Tuft, pointing outwards.

Fold the open end of each Ear in half and secure in this shape with a few stitches and then sew the Ears on to the Head just below the
Horns.

Sew the Belly Patch to the Body, with the first row of it roughly in line with Rnd 6 of the Body, making sure it's centrally aligned with
the Head.

Sew the Arms either side of the Body, attaching them about 4 rounds down from where the Body joins the Head.

Sew the Legs to the base of the Body, setting them forwards slightly so the Goat can sit down on his bottom. The colour change on the
Legs should be facing the back of the Body.

Sew the Tail, curving upwards, to the Body, attaching it in line roughly with Rnd 7 of the Body.

Embroidered Details
Using the photos as a guide, with a yarn needle embroider the following details:

Single stitch highlight on each Eyes, using CC1.


The Nose and Mouth using CC3.

All done!

Terms of Use
I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an individual crafter - please
credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.

If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished item complies with the relevant toy
legislation in your country.

Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a danger to small children.

The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold, transmitted, distributed or reproduced in
any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!

About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown and to make creative use of a box of
Amigurumi
POWERED BYYarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling guilty about!

I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle with managing a website and social
media.

Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any feedback about the pattern or would like to
share a picture of the end result.

You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.

If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on) please email me at:
pia@mycrochetchums.com - I’ll do my best to help!

Happy Crocheting!

Pia x
​©PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS 2022

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