How To Make A Moveable Comb Top Bar Beehive

1
How to Make a Moveable

Comb Top Bar Beehive
The women of the Nessuit Project (Rift Valley, Kenya), lining a

hive with cow dung and mud
Additional images provided by Roy Dyche and Paul Latham
Basic Beekeeping Manual 1: How to make a Moveable Comb Top Bar Beehive (© Author Pam Gregory, who offers
this as her gift to beekeepers in developing countries)
2
The plan shows the size to make the hive. Standard sizes allow
a beekeeper to move comb from one hive to another. This
allows bees to be more easily managed and makes honey
harvesting easier.
A – gable end
B – side panel
C – entrance (no more than 8
mm high)
D – floor (& optional landing
board no bigger than 2 cm)
E - top bar
F – roof
(all measurements are internal
to allow for variation in
thickness of construction
materials)
Top Bars are usually wedge-shaped. It is essential that the top

bars are exactly 3.2 cm wide:
END VIEW OF TOP BAR
3.2 cm
SIDE VIEW OF TOP BAR
48 cm
3.2 cm
44 cm
3
1. MAKING A HIVE FROM PLANKS
Cut selected timber to size. These are the side panels.
The wood may need to be planed to give a neat fit.
4
Two shorter pieces are nailed together make the gable ends
(front and back). Cut the ends off two nails (or hammer flat
with a stone) to give a nail with two sharp ends. Hammer the
sharp end of the nails into the planks to join the wood.
Note sharp
tip of nail
protruding
from the
edge of this
piece of
wood
The joined wood makes the rough gable shapes (front and
back).
5
Saw the rough gable shapes Use a standard template to make

into the correct shape and measuring easier. This is made
size. of cardboard. Measuring from
the middle ensures accurate
angles.
Cut a slot or a row of „V‟ shapes or drill holes (no bigger than
the diameter of a biro pen) in one gable end for the entrance.
The entrances must not be more than 8mm high to prevent
pests entering the hive.
GABLE END
(FRONT)
slot entrance
landing board, no
more than 2cm
6
Once the pieces are cut the hive is ready to put together. Here
the sides are being nailed to the gable ends. Then add the floor.
gable end
(front)
side
gable
end
(back)
Constructing the hive body.
Adding the floor
7
Some people make hives with the gable ends a little higher than
the sides to accommodate the top bars.
The top
bars fit
neatly
because
of higher
gable
ends
Other people put a runner inside the hive so the top bars fit
neatly with the sides.
runner
top bars fit level

with the sides
8
2. MAKING A HIVE FROM CHEAPER LOCAL MATERIALS
Hives do not have to be made of expensive wood. Many easily

available local materials can be used successfully. This is raphia
palm wood.
You can make the shaped gable ends of scrap timber, and the
sides and floor of local materials. This hive is made of straight
sticks.
straight
sticks
gable end
made of
scrap
wood
9
This “Grande Ruche” top bar hive from the Congo is cleverly
made using no nails or plank wood at all. The soft material is
pinned together with sharp sticks.
The gaps in this bamboo hive must be filled carefully with

suitable material to keep pests out.
10
This Ugandan hive is made This strong Ugandan hive is

of stalks. It is mudded with woven from wicker.
a mixture of mud, wood ash
and cow dung.
The floor and sides of these hives need to be mudded to keep

them dark and to prevent ants and other pests getting in.
11
The roof doesn‟t have to be made of expensive materials, as

long as it protects the hive from the rain. This roof is covered
with plastic.
This roof is made of a wooden frame with two pieces of bamboo

matting placed on top of each other. There is layer of waste
plastic in between, to help make it waterproof. The top is also
covered in plastic.
12
This roof is thatched like the local houses. It has solid ends so
snakes or other pests cannot enter, and handles so it is easy to
lift off.
A hive roof can be made of split bamboo – like the roof of this
local building in Kenya.
13
The bamboo is split in half and then laid together like this –the
same way as corrugated tin. Cover the bamboo with polythene
for extra protection.
A very simple roof can be made of a large polythene bag with

two poles inserted at the sides. Their weight holds the
polythene down.
4. cover over 3. polythene

with banana bag with poles
leaves or other to hold down
vegetation sides
1. sheet of
2. bamboo polythene over
support over top bars
polythene
sheet, so
water will run
off sloping
roof
14
If it is not possible to make a fitted roof this thatched cover may

help to protect the beehives from the sun and rain.
Palm thatch roof over

hive stand
Bamboo support
Hive placed
undercover
This completed stick hive is put into a wooden carrier made of

lashed together sticks, to which wires are attached. This makes
the hives easier to hang and protects the more fragile local
materials from damage. The hives can be moved by lifting
them from the carrier, making colony division easier.
Wires to
suspend
hive
Wooden
carrier
made
from
sticks
that
have
been
lashed
together
to form a
frame
15
3. MAKING THE TOP BAR
Cutting top bars is the most difficult and expensive part of hive
building. It is essential they are 32 or 33 mm (3.2 or 3.3 cm)
wide. The width of the top bars can be measured using a bottle
top or a used 9 volt battery (the only square shaped battery).
Cut
along
32 mm
this
line
Most top bars are wedge shaped in cross section. However,

many people have success with simpler top bars made of local
materials that are easier to cut than best timber. This top bar is
made of raphia palm.
16
This top bar is not wedge shaped. It is cut flat.
flat top bar
wax starter strip
Sticks, bamboo, or other suitable materials can be carefully cut

to size.
17
The wax starter strip can be easily made with a beeswax candle.
Have a look at this picture. You can discuss it with other

beekeepers. These top bars are made of bamboo filled with
wax, which is a good idea to try. However, the beekeeper will
have trouble getting the bees to build one comb on one top bar
because the bars are not accurately cut.
Inaccurately cut bars will cause crossing combs (cross combing)
These gaps
will allow
pests into
the hive.
18
Badly cut top bars are the cause of most problems that can
happen when using top bar hives.
If the top bars are cut correctly and waxed well, bees will build
one comb on one top bar. This allows the beekeeper to harvest
easily and move combs between hives to manage bees in a
similar way to frame hives.
Top Bar Hive
Sustainable, Chemical Free, Natural Beekeeping
Erin Champion, Abbey Noah,

Wes Randall, and Anna Sauls
November 23, 2010

HS 432-‐001
IntroducDon to Permaculture
Why Would You Want A Beehive?
• Honey Bees are excellent

pollinators, their presence is good
for the local flora
• Honey and Wax can both be
harvested from an established hive
• The Honey Bee population is
dwindling due to disease and loss
of natural habitat, keeping bees is
an environmentally conscious act
With awareness and caution
keeping bees can be
perfectly safe for everyone
near the hive
Types of Beehives
 TradiDonal Beehives – hallow
structure where bees aJach
the comb to the walls. The
only way to extract honey is
by destroying the comb
 Skeps – basket hive with
single entrance hole

 Hives – made of clay and
used in Mediterranean

Types of Beehives
• Modern Hives – Structure is
venDlated and oQen has
removable components to
make honey harvest easier.
• Langstroth hives – hive with
thin rectangular structures that
have the wax already built into
it
• Top Bar Hive – Bars placed
across the top where the bees
aJach the comb to the bars as
opposed to the frames in the
Langstroth
Top Bar Comb
Materials
• Body Panels: 12’’ x 1’’ Dmbers
• 2 at 36’’ long and 2 and 15’’ long
• Roof Frame: 3’’ x 1’’
• 2 at 38’’ long and 2 at 19’’ long
• Roof: ½’ thick and 22’ wide
• Heavy duty garden mesh
• Beeswax
• Top Bars: ¾’’ thick x 1 ¼’’ wide and
square dowels
• 25 cut into 17’’ length and square dowels
cut to 9’’ length
Budget
• Items and Cost:
• All New Untreated Wood -‐ ~42
• Heavy duty garden mesh -‐ ~$6
• Beeswax -‐ $2
• Found Items:
• Roof: ½’’ thick and 4’ wide
• Exterior screws /nails
Assembly of Hive Body
• Measure and cut
wood to size.
• None of the boards
are ripped or beveled.
They are just cut for
length and screwed
together.
• On the end boards
two marks are made
2.5’’ on either side of
center
• The side pieces are

aJached at those
marks with screws.
• The top corners of the
side pieces are then
spread to the outside
corners of the end pieces
and secured in place with
screws.
• Drilling pilot holes is

recommended
.
Adding Mesh Floor
• Floorboard (mesh floor)
• Mesh forms a convex curve inside
the hive forms a bee-‐proof and
moth-‐proof seal.
• Measure and cut the garden

mesh to completely cover the
boJom from outside edge to
outside edge.
• Hold in place with flat-‐headed

pins or tacks
Adding Handles or legs
• The roof frame will rest on
top of either the handles or
legs so they should be
installed 2” from and parallel
to the top of the hive
• The handle was craQed from
scraps.
Adding Entrances
• Drill three 1’’ holes
centered on one side, 2’’
from the floor
• Make another two

entrances on the opposite
side by drilling a 1” hole 3”
from each end and 2”
from the floor.
Assembly of Roof
• Measure and cut the roof
• Roof pieces: 10” wide and
38” long
• Measure around the top of

the hive box and build a
frame, screwed at the
corners, that will easily
slide over the top.
• Be sure to leave .25” slack

in both direcDons to allow
movement.
Assembly of Roof
• Measure and cut the
triangle gables to create a
gabled roof.
• Be sure to leave an inch of
board on the boJom of the
gable for connecDon to the
frame.
• Gables are aJached to the
inside of the roof frame.
Then the roof panels are
screwed to the gables.
• Flashing is then used to
bridge the gap between
the roof panels.
Assembly of Top Bars
• You will need approximately 25
Top Bars for each hive.
• Making of the Top Bars:
• Measure ¾’’ thick x 1 ¼’’
wide Dmber to 17’’ length
• Measure square dowels to
9’’ length
• Measure the center of the
Dmbers and dowels
• Line up the centers and nail
each end of the dowel to
secure into place.
• Seal the boJom edge with
beeswax
Weather proofing
• Coat the outer surface
with a 1:20 raDo of
beeswax to linseed oil.
• Heat in a “double boiler”.
• Paint on outside of hive

with close aJenDon to
end grain, nail heads and
joints.
Finished Product!
References
• Chandler, PJ. “How to Build a Top Bar Hive”. 27-‐October-‐2010.
hJp://www.biobees.com
• Bush Bees -‐ hJp://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm
• Tumbledown Farmer’s Blog –

hJp://tumbledownfarm.blogspot.com/2007/04/top-‐bar-‐
beehive-‐backyard-‐wildlife.html
• “About Honeybees” Texas A&M University Honeybee

InformaDon Site Aug 2007 Texas A&M University. 27 Feb 2008
hJp://honeybee.tamu.edu/index.html.

References
• Blodner, David. “Facts About Honeybees” Backyard Beekeepers
AssociaDon. Sept. 2007. 27 Feb 2008 -‐
hJp:backyardbeekeepers.com/facts.html
• Top Bar Hive – Top Bar Beekeeping – hJp://www.top-‐bar-‐

hive.com/about-‐top-‐bar-‐hives/all-‐types-‐of-‐beehives/

Par Christian56 et dessins de Monique
J’ai découvert que nous étions plusieurs sur le site « LesCopeaux » à avoir un intérêt pour les abeilles et leur
habitat. Peut-être y-en a-t-il d’autres parmi vous qui lirez ceci.
Si la passion vous prend et que vous souhaitiez réaliser vos ruches vous-même, je vous propose en 5 planches les
plans de réalisation d’une ruche Dadant.
"Dadant" : ce n'est pas une marque, mais un type de ruche, du nom de son concepteur, Charles Dadant
(1817-1902). De nos jours, c'est la ruche qui équipe la quasi totalité des ruchers français.
Ce concept de ruche à cadres mobiles et amovibles a été inventé dans la seconde moitié du 19è siècle. De nombreux
apiculteurs, chercheurs, constructeurs, ont alors essayé de fabriquer LA ruche qui donnerait les meilleurs résultats :
taille, forme, écartements.... Il a donc coexisté jadis, de nombreux types de ruches portant le nom de leur créateur.
Aujourd'hui, du moins sous notre climat, c'est celle-ci qui est devenue le standard. Il est d’ailleurs très difficile de
trouver autre chose dans le commerce.
Chez nous le travail se fait en équipe avec mon épouse Monique. Notre plaisir est ainsi partagé !
Elle, fignole les plans et s'occupe de l'essentiel des finitions; moi je fais le reste.
Je vous propose donc ci-après, grâce à sa précieuse collaboration, les croquis de réalisation de cette ruche.
Monique et Christian
1/6 christian56@lescopeaux.fr juin 2005
L’ouvrage est à réaliser en sapin NON TRAITE. Il faudra attendre que

les odeurs de colle aient disparu pour que ces « dames » acceptent de s’y
installer. Les cotes indiquées s’entendent en cm. Les épaisseurs de bois sont en
général de 2,5 cm. (Sauf auvent, partie pentue du toit, lattes de recouvrement,
cadres)
Le plateau : alaisé (il résiste mieux), il se glisse sous le corps de ruche et

dépasse devant. C’est l’aire d’atterrissage et de décollage et aussi l’espace de
reconnaissance : contrôle des billets à l’entrée !
Le corps de ruche : les dimensions notées « int » sont des dimensions

intérieures. Elles correspondent à ce que l’on doit acheter : 4 crémaillères, 2
dentiers (facultatifs), 10 feuilles de cire et cadres que l’on peut acheter à l’unité;
fil de fer galvanisé. Les assemblages des côtés ont été réalisés à mi-bois.
La hausse : elle a les mêmes dimensions que le corps de ruche, car elle
se pose simplement sur ce dernier, sans fixation. Les abeilles la colleront elles-
mêmes.
Planchettes : pour recouvrir, c’est mon principe et j’en suis satisfait, elles
sont quatre, posées côte à côte. (les abeilles les collent)
Elles ferment la ruche mais ne vont pas jusqu’au bord extérieur, pour permettre
d’enfiler plus facilement le toit.
Le toit : plus il déborde, plus il protège de la pluie ; les miens sont

couverts d’une feuille d’aluminium (0,5 mm), repliée et clouée par en-dessous.
S’il est assez lourd, il ne s’envolera pas. Ses dimensions sont supérieures à
celles de la hausse et du corps de ruche de seulement 3 + 3 mm car une abeille
se faufile dans 4,5 mm. Les trous de ventilation grillagés (que l’on voit sur
certains modèles du commerce) sont à mon avis inutiles.





How To Make A Moveable Comb Top Bar Beehive

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1

How to Make a Moveable

The women of the Nessuit Project (Rift Valley, Kenya), lining a

Additional images provided by Roy Dyche and Paul Latham

Top Bars are usually wedge-shaped. It is essential that the top

END VIEW OF TOP BAR

SIDE VIEW OF TOP BAR

1. MAKING A HIVE FROM PLANKS

Cut selected timber to size. These are the side panels.

The wood may need to be planed to give a neat fit.

Saw the rough gable shapes Use a standard template to make

Constructing the hive body.

Adding the floor

top bars fit level

2. MAKING A HIVE FROM CHEAPER LOCAL MATERIALS

Hives do not have to be made of expensive wood. Many easily

The gaps in this bamboo hive must be filled carefully with

This Ugandan hive is made This strong Ugandan hive is

The floor and sides of these hives need to be mudded to keep

The roof doesn‟t have to be made of expensive materials, as

This roof is made of a wooden frame with two pieces of bamboo

A very simple roof can be made of a large polythene bag with

4. cover over 3. polythene

If it is not possible to make a fitted roof this thatched cover may

Palm thatch roof over

This completed stick hive is put into a wooden carrier made of

3. MAKING THE TOP BAR

Most top bars are wedge shaped in cross section. However,

This top bar is not wedge shaped. It is cut flat.

flat top bar

wax starter strip

Sticks, bamboo, or other suitable materials can be carefully cut

Have a look at this picture. You can discuss it with other

Inaccurately cut bars will cause crossing combs (cross combing)

Erin Champion, Abbey Noah,

November 23, 2010

• Honey Bees are excellent

single entrance hole

used in Mediterranean

• The side pieces are

• Drilling pilot holes is

• Measure and cut the garden

• Hold in place with ﬂat-­‐headed

• Make another two

• Measure around the top of

• Be sure to leave .25” slack

• Heat in a “double boiler”.

• Paint on outside of hive

• Bush Bees -­‐ hJp://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm

• Tumbledown Farmer’s Blog –

• “About Honeybees” Texas A&M University Honeybee

• Top Bar Hive – Top Bar Beekeeping – hJp://www.top-­‐bar-­‐

L’ouvrage est à réaliser en sapin NON TRAITE. Il faudra attendre que

Le plateau : alaisé (il résiste mieux), il se glisse sous le corps de ruche et

Le corps de ruche : les dimensions notées « int » sont des dimensions

Le toit : plus il déborde, plus il protège de la pluie ; les miens sont

2/6 christian56@lescopeaux.fr juin 2005

3/6 christian56@lescopeaux.fr juin 2005

4/6 christian56@lescopeaux.fr juin 2005

5/6 christian56@lescopeaux.fr juin 2005

6/6 christian56@lescopeaux.fr juin 2005

You might also like

• Hold in place with ﬂat-‐headed

• Bush Bees -‐ hJp://www.bushfarms.com/beestopbarhives.htm

• Top Bar Hive – Top Bar Beekeeping – hJp://www.top-‐bar-‐