Honda D15B/D15A engine specs

Manufacturer Honda Motor Company

Also called Honda D15
Production 1984-2006
Cylinder block alloy Aluminum
Configuration Inline-4
SOHC
2 valves per cylinder
SOHC
Valvetrain
3 valves per cylinder
SOHC
4 valves per cylinder
Piston stroke, mm (inch) 84.5 (3.33)
Cylinder bore, mm (inch) 75 (2.95)
8.7
9.1
9.2
Compression ratio
9.3
9.6
10.0
Displacement 1493 cc (91.1 cu in)
46 kW (63 HP) at 4,400 rpm
52 kW (71 HP) at 4,500 rpm
67 kW (92 HP) at 5,500 rpm
76 kW (103 HP) at 5,900 rpm
78 kW (105 HP) at 5,800 rpm
Power output
84 kW (114 HP) at 6,500 rpm
85 kW (116 HP) at 6,500 rpm
89 kW (122 HP) at 6,400 rpm
95 kW (130 HP) at 6,800 rpm
95 kW (130 HP) at 7,000 rpm
113 Nm (83 lb·ft) at 2,200 rpm
113 Nm (83 lb·ft) at 2,800 rpm
133 Nm (97 lb·ft) at 3,000 rpm
133 Nm (97 lb·ft) at 5,000 rpm
140 Nm (103 lb·ft) at 4,200 rpm
Torque output
134 Nm (99 lb·ft) at 5,400 rpm
134 Nm (99 lb·ft) at 4,500 rpm
150 Nm (110 lb·ft) at 4,800 rpm
138 Nm (102 lb·ft) at 5,200 rpm
139 Nm (102 lb·ft) at 5,300 rpm
6,500 (D15B)
Redline 6,800 (D15Z4)
7,200 (D15B VTEC)
 42
47
61
69
HP per liter 70
76
77
81
87
Fuel type Gasoline
Weight, kg (lbs) 140 (310)
Fuel consumption, L/100 km (mpg) Honda Civic
-City 8.6 (27)
-Highway 5.6 (42)
-Combined 6.6 (35)
Turbocharger Naturally aspirated
Oil consumption , L/1000 km up to 1.0
(qt. per miles) (1 qt. per 600 miles)
5W-30
10W-30
Recommended engine oil
10W-40
15W-40
Engine oil capacity, L (qt.) 3.5 (3.7)
5,000-10,000
Oil change interval, km (miles)
(3,000-6,000)
Normal engine operating temperature, °C (F) 90 (194)
Engine lifespan, km (miles)
-Official information –
-Real 250,000+ (180,000)
Tuning, HP
-Max HP 250+
-No life span loss –
Honda Civic
Honda CRX
Honda Ballade
The engine is installed in
Honda Capa
Honda City
Honda Concerto

Honda D15B (D15A) engine reliability, problems and

repair
 Production of Honda D-series engines
started in 1984, and the first representative of this family was D15A created for Honda
CRX. The D15A cylinder block was made of aluminum and had cast iron sleeves, and
its deck height was 207 mm. Inside it, they installed a 84.5 mm stroke crankshaft, 74
mm pistons and 134 mm long connecting rods, which resulted in the displacement of
1.5 liters.
The cylinder block was covered with a non-VTEC SOHC head with 3 valves per
cylinder. Later, versions with 8 valve head and 16 valve head were produced. Some
models had the VTEC system. This information can be found below.
For D15, a timing belt was used to be replaced after every 60,000 miles of mileage.
Valves were to be adjusted after every 24,000 miles.
The valve clearances for D15B were 0.2 mm for intake valves, and 0.25 mm for exhaust
valves.
Electronic injection system was mainly used in these engines, but the first versions used
carburetors.
Honda D15 firing order was 1-3-4-2. The size of D15B throttle body was 56 mm. The
size of D15B fuel injectors was 240 cc.
Along with D15, D-series also included D12, D13, D14, D16, D17, and ZC.
Since 2002, they started replacing this engine with L15.
Honda D15B (D15A) engine modifications and differences
1. D15A1 was the first version with a 12-valve SOHC head with a carburetor fuel
injection system. The compression ratio was 9.2, the power was 76 HP @ 5,500 rpm,
and the torque was 114 Nm @ 3,500 rpm. It was installed in Honda CRX.
2. D15A2 was a version with a 8 valve SOHC head and the compression ratio of 10 with
an electronic fuel injection system. The power was 60 HP @ 5,500 rpm, and the torque
was 99 Nm @ 3,500 rpm. It was also installed in Honda CRX.
3. D15A3 was an analogue to D15A1, but with a multipoint fuel injection system. The
compression ratio was reduced to 8.7, its power was 92 HP @ 5,500 rpm, and the
torque was 126 Nm @ 4,500 rpm. The European version had 100 HP @ 5,750 rpm.
It was installed in Honda Civic Si and CRX.
4. D15B was the dual carb version (later – with electronic fuel injection) with a 16-valve
SOHC head. Here 29 mm intake valves, and 25 mm exhaust valves were used, and the
valve stem diameter was 5.5 mm. The compression ratio was 9.2, the power was 105
HP @ 6,800 rpm, and the torque was 133 Nm @ 5,200 rpm.
This engine may be found in Honda Civic, CRX and Capa.
5. D15B VTEC was an enhanced JDM D15B, here 137 mm long connecting rods and
27.4 mm high pistons were used, which increased the Rod/Stroke ratio up to 1.62.
Besides, a VTEC system was added, the compression ratio was increased up to 9.3,
and the engine power reached 130 HP @ 6,800 rpm, and the torque was 138 Nm @
5,200 rpm.
In the period between 1995 and 2000, the D15B 3-Stage VTEC version was made.
6. D15B1 was a version with a dual point injection system and a 16-valve SOHC head.
The compression ratio was 9.2, the power was 71 HP @ 5,500 rpm, and the torque was
112 Nm @ 3,000 rpm.
7. D15B2 was an analogue to D15B1, but with a different camshaft, with an improved
exhaust manifold and another ECU. The power was 92 HP @ 6,000 rpm, and the
torque was 119 Nm @ 4,700 rpm.
8. D15B3 was an- analogue to D15B2 with a carburetor. The power was 105 HP @
6,000 rpm, and the torque was 121 Nm @ 4,500 rpm.
9. D15B4 was a dual carb version of the D15B3 engine. The power was 101 HP @
5200 rpm, and the torque was 122 HP @ 3,800 rpm.
10. D15B5 was an analog to JDM D16B VTEC for operation on compressed natural
gas.
11. D15B6 was the version for maximum fuel economy. Here a 8-valve SOHC head
was used. The compression ratio was 9.1, the power was 63 HP @ 4,400 rpm (73 HP
after 1990), and the torque was 113 Nm @ 2,200 rpm.
12. D15B7 was an analog to JDM D15B non-VTEC with an MPFI system.
13. D15B8 was an analog to the D15B6 for Civic CX. The power was 71 HP @ 4,500
rpm, and the torque was 113 Nm @ 2,800 rpm.
14. D15Z1 was an analog to JDM D15B VTEC, but with an improved head; it uses the
VTEC-E system, 27.75 mm high pistons, and a new ECU. The compression ratio was
9.3, the power was 92 HP @ 5,500 rpm, and torque was 132 Nm @ 3,000 rpm.
15. D15Z3 replaced D15Z1, and features a slightly modified VTEC system and a new
ECU.
16. D15Z4 was a version with a new non-VTEC 16 valve SOHC head, modified pistons,
sequential fuel injection system and a new ECU. The power was 105 HP @ 5,800 rpm,
and the torque was 140 Nm @ 4,200 rpm.
17. D15Z6 was an analogue to D15Z4 with a modified head equipped with a VTEC-E
system, and a multipoint fuel injection system. The compression ratio was increased to
9.6, its power was 114 HP @ 6,500 rpm, and the torque was 134 Nm @ 5,400 rpm.
18. D15Z7 was an analogue to D15Z6 with a 3-Stage VTEC system. The power was
130 HP @ 7,000 rpm, and the torque was 139 Nm @ 5,300 rpm.
19. D15Z8 was an analogue D15Z6 with a slightly modified VTEC system.
20. D15Y3 was a version with a 16-valve non-VTEC SOHC head. The power was 120
HP @ 6,200 rpm, and the torque was 142 Nm @ 4,500 rpm.
21. D15Y4 was an analogue to D15Y3, but with a VTEC-E system.

Honda D15 engine problems and malfunctions

1. Crankshaft pulley problem. Crankshaft pulley often breaks here; this problem can be
solved depending on how it all happened, starting from replacing the crankshaft pulley
to replacing the crankshaft.
2. Rough idle. This mainly happens due to a dirty throttle body or idle control valve. The
reason may be in the O2 sensor, have it checked.
3. Sounds like a diesel. The “diesel” sound of the D15 engine is a symptom of a crack in
the exhaust manifold, have it checked. It makes no sense trying to weld up this crack,
this exhaust manifold cannot be restored, you should buy a new one.
These were the most significant problem, but in D15B, distributor often fails, the engine
starts misfiring and losing power, starts with problems, etc. The O2 sensor does not last
long here, the oil pressure switch sensor may start leaking, etc.
However, it is an excellent engine, and it was incredibly reliable in its age. Life
expectancy of the D15B/D15Z is long, and exceeds 150,000 miles, after which piston
rings are to be replaced. Use high quality motor oil and perform periodic maintenance.

Honda D15B (D15A) engine tuning

Naturally aspirated
The most correct step in performance tuning is replacing its head with a D15B VTEC
head. You then need port and polish, you should buy a cold air intake system, a 60 mm
throttle body, a Skunk2 intake manifold, a Skunk2 cam, a cam gear, valve springs, NGK
spark plugs, a 4-2-1 header, a 2.5″ exhaust system, and a Hondata ECU. In the end,
these mods will give you about 160 HP.
This is not the limit, you can get more power and spend a lot of money, but any modern
VW Golf GTI Stage 2 will be faster.

D15B and D15Z Turbo

First, you need to bring your old engine to the normal condition, and then buy a turbo
kit. You can build a good turbo D15 even using stock internals, they can withstand
about 200 WHP, but it is better not to risk it and make the power a bit lower.
Buy a turbo kit from eBay, or build it yourself on the basis of a TD04 turbocharger. You
will need a turbo manifold, an FMIC, a wastegate, a BOV, a piping kit, a 2.5 inch
exhaust system, a wideband air/fuel o2 sensor, and a Hondata ECU. Buy a Walbro 255
lph fuel pump, an aftermarket fuel rail, a fuel regulator, and 450 cc fuel injectors.
For the turbocharger, an oil feed line and an oil return line are to be installed.
These performance parts will be enough to get 180-200 WHP, and make your dead car
a bit faster.
Want more power? Then you have to replace fuel injectors with more efficient ones, buy
Vitara pistons or forged pistons, H-beam rods and ARP head studs. With these
upgrades, you can increase the boost pressure to the maximum, and get up to 250-280
HP – is the limit for TD04. Replace it with a TD05 or something similar, and you will get
300+ HP, and a huge turbo lag. However, making this turbo build work fine, you have to
do head porting, buy a performance cam, a cam gear, valves, valve springs, valve
guides, valve spring retainers, etc.
 cover Bolts cylinder head 10 Nm
 bed Bolts cylinder head 8mm 20 Nm
 bed Bolts cylinder head 6mm 12 Nm
 cap Nuts connecting rod 32 Nm
 pulley Bolt camshaft 37 Nm
 Bolt crankshaft pulley 182 Nm
 cap Bolts out of bed D16 crankshaft 51 Nm
 cover Bolts to the bed of the crankshaft D14, D15 44 Nm
 Bolts and nuts attaching the oil intake 11 Nm
 Bolts oil pump 11 Nm
 Bolt to the drive Board (AT) 74 Nm
 Bolt flywheel (MT) 118 Nm
 Bolts oil pan 12 Nm
 cap Bolts crankshaft rear main oil seal 11 Nm
 Sensor mounting pump coolant 12 Nm
 Bolt generator shackle bracket (from pump to gen) 44 Nm
 bolt tensioner pulley timing belt 44 Nm
 CKF sensor Bolt 12 Nm
 attaching Bolts plastic timing covers 10 Nm
 attach a sensor to the VTEC cylinder head 12 Nm
 Bolt oil pan (wide strip), tube 44 Nm
tightening torque of head bolts
On earlier versions, there were only two stages, it is too late 4. an Important it
is Advisable to stretch the bolts and in General to work with threaded
connections at temperatures below 20 degrees Celsius. Do not forget that you
need to clean off any liquid and dirt from threaded connections.So, preferably
after each step to wait for 20 minutes to remove the \"stress\" of the metal. PS
In different sources are given different numbers, such as 64, 65, 66 NM.
Even in the original references for different regions, write here average or at
the most acquaintances.
the Procedure for tightening the head bolts,
1. crankshaft bed, bed Cam D14A3, D14A4, D14Z1, D14Z2, D14A7 — 20
Nm, 49 Nm and 67 Nm. Control 67
2. D15Z1 — 30 Nm 76 Nm 76 Control
3. D15Z4, D15Z5, D15Z6, D15Z7, D15B (3Stage) — 20 Nm, 49 Nm and
67 Nm. Control 67
4. D16Y7, D16y5, D16Y8, D16B6 — 20 Nm, 49 Nm and 67 Nm. Control
67
5. D16Z6 — 30 Nm 76 Nm 76 Control
6. locknut setting valve clearances d16y5, d16y8 — 20
7. locknut setting valve clearances D16y7 — 18
8. Banjo bolt fuel hose d16y5, d16y8 — 33
9. Banjo bolt fuel hose D16y7 — 37
Other tightening torques
1. Nuts on the wheels 4x100 — 104 Nm
2. spark plugs 25
3. Wheel nut — 181 Nm \n\n

Rods = 23 lb-ft
Main girdle = 18 lb-ft first step, 33 lb-ft second step, using a
center-out tightening pattern.
Torque the bearing cap bolts sequentially in two steps.

Install the thrust washers (A) on both edges of the No. 4 main
bearing recess.
Apply engine oil to the threads of the connecting rod bolts.
Seat the rod journals into connecting rod No. 1 and connecting
rod No. 4. Install the caps and nuts finger tight. Install the cap
so the bearing recess is on the same side as the recess in the
rod.

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, and seat the journals into

connecting rod No.2 and connecting rod No. 3. Install the
connecting rod cap and bolts finger tight.
Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 32 Nm (3.3 kgf-m, 24 ft. Lbs.
).
Install the bearing cap bridge. Coat the bolt threads with engine
oil.
Torque the bearing cap bolts sequentially in two steps. 1st step
torque: 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-cm, 18 ft. Lbs.)

2nd step torque: 51 Nm (5.2 kgf-cm, 38 ft. Lbs.)

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need
anything else to get the problem fixed
intake: 0.18-0.22 mm (0.007-0.009 in)
exhaust: 0.23-0.27 mm (0.009-0.011 in)