Applachian Final

Welcome!
Welcome to Appalachian Spring, a counted canvas design. This design features a variety of
twisty stitches using hand-dyed and solid color threads from the Caron Collection, plus a
Kreinik metallic accent.
The inspiration for this piece came from the hand-dyed thread series called Appalachia from
Caron Collection, as well as from the beauty of nature in the mountains near where Michael
lives. He looks at the Blue Ridge Mountains from his front porch. They are part of the
Appalachian Mountain chain. The colors of the hand-dyed thread reminded him of the
budding trees and the profusion of wildflowers that he sees in spring.
Of course, this design can be worked in a variety of colorways. We list nine possibilities at the
back of the booklet, but you can pick your own favorites! There is even a place to write them
down on page 37.
TO START: Please refer to the Road Map and the Design Counts on the next 2 pages before
you begin stitching. Before you mount your canvas onto stretcher bars, draw or baste the
design onto your canvas. This is actually very easy because it is all done in 12 or 24 thread
segments. Begin by widening the center hole (do NOT mark with a pencil!) with your needle.
Count out 24 threads from that point in all four directions to draw the center diamond. Work
out from there. Mark one side of your canvas TOP, and remember to keep it at the top unless
instructed otherwise. Do not cut your skeins of thread until instructed to do so.
NEXT: Go to the colorways on pages 33-37 and go through the booklet, filling in the blanks
with the correct thread for your colorway. This makes life a lot easier!
©2012, rev. 2016 by Michael E. Boren and Carole H. Lake

StitchPlay Designs, LLC, www.stitchplay.com
4003 Edgefield Ct.
Austin, TX 78731
(512) 750-5517
FAX (512) 628-3560
carole@stitchplay.com
michael@stitchplay.com
Appalachian Spring page 1 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Appalachian Spring Road Map
D1
E3 E2 H1
H2
C6 C14
E4 F1 E2 B1 E3 F2 E1
C16 C8
E1 E4
G G
C11 C1 C12 C2
D2 B4 A B2 D2
C3 C9 C4 C10
E4 G G E1
C5 C13
E1 F4 E3 B3 E2 F3 E4
C15 C7
E2 E3
H1 H2
D1

Appalachian Spring Design Counts
2 threads
8 threads
2 threads
24 threads 24 threads 24 threads 24 threads 24 threads
24 threads 24 threads
24 threads 24 threads 24 threads 24 threads
C
24 threads 24 threads 24 threads 24 threads
24 threads 24 threads 24 threads 24 threads 24 threads

2 threads
8 threads
2 threads

INSTRUCTIONS
Refer to the Road Map (page 2) for the placement of all stitches.
IMPORTANT: Do NOT cut your skeins of thread until instructed to

do so. This design uses many unusual lengths of thread to complete the stitches.
Area A - Center Diamond-Eight Point Star

Thread #1:
Step 1 - The Eight Point Star is worked over a foundation layer consisting of a Tied Cross stitch
variation. Use a 24" length of Thread #1 for the foundation layer and refer to Diagram 1.
To tie on, from the top point of the diamond, count down over 18 horizontal canvas threads and sink your
waste knot into this hole. Bring your needle up 2 horizontal canvas threads below the waste knot, and take
a series of 3 over-1 backstitches in this center vertical canvas channel, trying to pierce the thread as you do
so. Come up at #1 on the diagram, and clip off your waste knot. You are ready to go!
Hole #1 is 18 horizontal canvas threads below the center hole. Stitches 1-2 and 3-4 are over 36
canvas threads and are 6 threads in from the points of the diamond. Stitches 5-6 and 7-8 are over
18 diagonal canvas intersections. The Tied Cross is completed with a 4-by-2 cross in the middle,
stitches 9-10 and 11-12.
This stitch does NOT touch

2
the basted/drawn lines of the

center diamond.
To end your thread, come up 8 6
in the center horizontal channel

on the left side of the center hole
and take a series of 3 over-1 11 10
backstitches. Carefully move

stitch 3-4 aside so you can see 3 4
the holes. 9 12
5 7
Diagram 1
1

Area A - Center Diamond-Eight Point Star, continued
Thread #2:
Step 2- Here are some tips to remember about an Eight Point Star:
Each layer of the EPS has 2 passes to it: on the first pass, travel is counterclockwise
and on the second pass travel is clockwise.
The 2 passes share holes with each other.
The last stitch of each pass slides under the first stitch of that pass before going
down in the appropriate hole. Sliding under completes the woven look of the stitch.
Also, when the stitching is complete, you cannot tell where you started or ended.
It is only when you start stitching the second pass that the star shape begins to emerge.
Each layer of the EPS is offset from the previous layer by 2 canvas threads at the top,
bottom and side points. The diagonal points are offset by 1 diagonal canvas intersection.
The stitch sequence (i.e. numbering) is the same for each layer of the Eight Point Star.
This Eight Point Star has 3 layers to it and is worked from the outside to the inside. Use a 36" length of Thread
#2 for the first layer and refer to Diagram 2 on the next page for the stitch sequence. This layer is the RED dots.
Carefully anchor your thread behind the center area of the foundation layer. Lay the thread carefully.
The stitches of this layer are from pencil line to Photo 1

pencil line (or basting line if you basted.)
Slide stitch 7-8 under stitch 1-2 before you go

down in hole #8. Diagram 3 on the next page
shows this first layer. It does not look like a
star yet!
Photo 1 shows the foundation layer and the first

layer of the Eight Point Star.

Area A -
Diagram 2
2
4
Area A -
Diagram 3
7 3
6 8

Area A - Center Diamond-Eight Point Star, continued
Thread #3:
Thread #4:
Step 3: The numbering sequence for the next two layers is exactly the same as for the first layer. See
Diagram 2, p. 6. The offset of these layers is 2 canvas threads on the horizontal and vertical and 1
diagonal canvas intersection on the diagonal. Use a 30" length of 1 ply of the 3-ply strand of Thread #3
for the second layer (BLUE DOTS) and 3 plies of the 12-ply strand of Thread #4 in a 30" length for the
third layer (GREEN DOTS). Photo 2 shows the completed Eight Point Star.
Photo 2

Areas B1-4 - Small Diamonds: Doubled Fan Doubled
Thread #3:
Step 4 - These four smaller diamonds are filled with a Double Fan Doubled, which shares
holes with 4 of the points of the Eight Point Star that you stitched in Area A Step 2. This is
worked over a foundation layer consisting of a large Smyrna Cross stitch variation using 1
ply of the 3-ply strand of Thread #3 for all four of these areas. Refer to Diagram 4.
Start and end your thread with a series of over-1 backstitches in the center vertical or horizontal
channel as you did in Area A-Step 1.
All of the stitches of the Double Fan Doubled are worked on top of the foundation layer;
none of them slide under the arms of the foundation layer.
Diagram 4
2
B-1
B-4 B-2
B-3
8 6
3 4
5 7

Areas B1-4 - Small Diamonds: Doubled Fan Doubled, continued
Thread #5:
Thread #6:
Thread #7:
Step 5 - The Double Fan Doubled is worked with two needles. For the Area B1 Double Fan
Doubled, start with 1 strand of Thread #5 and alternate with 1 strand of Thread #6 using a
long length (approximately 24 inches). Use Thread #5 for stitches 1-4, 9-12, 17-20, 25-28, and
33-36. Refer to Diagram 5 for the numbering sequence. Come up at 1 and go down at 2,
leaving the stitch slightly loose on top of the canvas. Come up at 3, slide under stitch 1-2,
and go down at 4. Adjust this cross so that it is centered on top of the foundation layer cross.
See Diagram 6. Come up at 9 and park your needle.
Use Thread #6 for stitches 5-8, 13-16, 21-24, 29-32, and 37-40. Come up at 5 and go down at 6,
leaving the stitch slightly loose on top of the canvas. Come up at 7, slide under stitch 5-6 (but
not under stitch 1-2), and go down at 8. Adjust this cross so that it, too, is centered on top of the
foundation layer cross. See Diagram 7 and Diagram 8. Come up at 13 and park your needle.
Diagram 5 Diagram 6
3 2
35 34
27 26
19 18
11 10
3 2 4 1
8 7
Diagram 7
16 15 8 7
24 23
32 31
40 39
37 38
29 30
21 22
13 14
5 6
5 6 Diagram 8
4 1
12 9
20 17
28 25
36 33

Areas B1-4- Small Diamonds: Doubled Fan Doubled, continued
Thread #5:
Thread #6:
Thread #7:
Step 5- The Double Fan Doubled now has 8 arms (not
counting the foundation layer). You will be adding Photo 3
threads to expand each of these arms by going over and
sliding under these arms. You will always travel in a
clockwise direction. The stitches of the foundation layer
separate the 8 arm areas of the Double Fan Doubled.
Come up at 9, slide under arm 4, go over arm 5, slide
under arm 8, go over arm 3, and go down at 10.
Remember: none of these stitches slide under the
foundation layer. The mantra for stitching a Double Fan
Doubled is under-over-under-over 4 arms and then
down. You will continue this technique and alternating
threads for the remaining stitches of the Double Fan
Doubled. The last stitch is 39-40.
Photo 3 shows the B1 Double Fan Doubled completed.
Follow these same instructions for the other 3 Area B diamonds:
Area B2- Small Diamonds: Doubled Fan Doubled

Thread #6:
Thread #7:
Start with 1 strand of Thread #6 and alternate with 1 strand of Thread #7.

Thread #5:
Thread #7:

Thread #7:
Thread #6:

Areas C1-8 - Small Triangle Pairs: Sprats Head C-6 C-14
and Areas C9-16 Triangular Jessicas
C-16 C-8
C-11 C-1 C-12 C-2
C-3 C-9 C-4 C-10
Step 6 - Areas C1-8 are filled with pairs of Sprats Head stitches. C-5 C-13
Use a 30" length of thread to work each pair of Sprats Heads.

C-15 C-7
They share holes with each other along the center line at
holes 2, 6, 10, 14 and 18. Diagram 9 shows the stitch sequence for
the left Sprats Head, and Diagram 10 shows the stitch sequence for the right Sprats Head.
Diagram 11 shows the pair together.
Diagram 9 Diagram 10
1 19 15 11 7 3 3 7 11 15 19 1
5 5
9 2 2 9
13 13
6 6
17 17
10 10
20 14 14 20
16 16
12 18 18 12
8 8
4 4
Diagram 11

Areas C1-8 - Small Triangle Pairs: Sprats Heads C-6 C-14
C-16 C-8
Step 7 - C1 C-11 C-1 C-12 C-2
Thread #8: C-3 C-9 C-4 C-10
Start with Area C1 and use 3 plies of the 12-ply strand C-5 C-13
of Thread #8. You can tie the thread into the back of the adjacent C-15 C-7
Double Fan Double. Start with the left Sprats Head. Hole #1
shares the hole with the top point of the Double Fan Doubled.
You will be stitching from pencil line to pencil line, sharing
holes with the Double Fan Double, and along the diagonal line of Area A. Lay the stitches
carefully. When you complete the left Sprats Head, you can carry the thread directly across
to hole #1 of the right one. When you finish the right Sprats Head, tie your thread off
behind it.
Step 8 - Area C2
Thread #9:
Move to Area C2 and use 3 plies of the 12-ply strand of Thread #9. Follow the instructions
in Step 7. You will follow these same instructions for all of the other Sprats Head pairs.
Step 9 - Area C3
Thread #9:
Area C4
Thread #8:
Rotate your canvas 180 degrees to stitch Areas C3 and C4. Use 3 plies of the 12-ply strand
of Thread #9 for C3 and 3 plies of the 12-ply strand of Thread #8 for C4.
Step 10 - Area C5
Thread #10:
Area C6
Thread #11:
Rotate your canvas a quarter turn to the counterclockwise (top side to the right) to stitch
Areas C5 and C6. Use 3 plies of the 12-ply strand of Thread #10 for C5 and 3 plies of the
12-ply strand of Thread #11 for C6.
Step 11 - Area C7
Thread #12:
Area C8
Thread #10:
Rotate your canvas a quarter turn to the counterclockwise (top side to the left) to stitch
Areas C7 and C8. Use 3 plies of the 12-ply strand of Thread #12 for C7 and 3 plies of the
12-ply strand of Thread #10 for C8.

Areas C9-16 - Small Triangle Pairs: Triangular Jessicas
C-6 C-14
You will need a 62" length of thread to work each of the C-16 C-8
Triangular Jessicas. C-11 C-1 C-12 C-2
C-3 C-9 C-4 C-10
Use a T stitch to start your thread. From the top point of the C-5 C-13
triangle, count down over 2 horizontal canvas threads and over

C-15 C-7
1 vertical canvas thread to the right. Sink your waste knot in this
hole. Come up 1 canvas thread to the left and stitch two over-1
backstitches in that channel and then bring an over-1 stitch from above into the hole that the backstitches
share. Bring your needle up at #1 and clip the waste knot off.
Step 12 - Area C9
Thread #13:
Start with Area C9 and use 1 strand of Thread #13. Refer to Diagram 12 on the next page.
Notice that every hole is used on the diagonal, but only every other hole is used on the
horizontal, and that each of these holes will be used twice.
Come up at 1 and go down at 2. When you come up at 3, point your needle to the outside of
stitch 1-2, then cross over stitch 1-2 and go down at 4.
When stitching any Jessica, each stitch crosses over all previous stitches before going down in
the appropriate hole.
Continue working in this manner through stitch 47-48. Beginning with stitch 49-50, you will be
crossing over the stitches on the side you come up in and sliding under the stitches on the side
you will be going down in. Come up at 49, cross over all of the stitches on that side. Then, slide
your needle under the stitches between holes 1/48 and 3. Pull all of the thread through and then
go down in hole 3/50. You will always be sliding under between the hole in which you will go
down and the previous hole. Follow this technique for the remaining stitches of the Triangular
Jessica. The last stitch is 71-72.
Photo 4 on page 15 shows a completed Triangular Jessicas.

Areas C9-16 - Small Triangle Pairs: Triangular Jessicas, continued
Diagram 12
1/48
3/50 46/71
5/52 44/69
C-6 C-14
7/54 42/67
C-16 C-8
9/56 40/65
C-11 C-1 C-12 C-2
11/58 38/63
C-3 C-9 C-4 C-10
13/60 36/61 C-5 C-13
15/62 34/59
C-15 C-7
17/64 32/57
19/66 30/55
21/68 28/53
23/70 26/51
25/72 2/27 4/29 6/31 8/33 10/35 12/37 14/39 16/41 18/43 20/45 22/47 24/49
Step 13 - Area C10

Thread #14:
Follow the instructions in Step 12. You will use these instructions for all of the other Area C
Triangular Jessicas.
Step 14 - Area C11

Thread #14:
Area C12
Thread #13:
Rotate your canvas 180 degrees to stitch Areas C11 and C12. Use 1 strand of Thread #14 for C11
and 1 strand of Thread #13 for C12.
Step 15 - Area C13

Thread #5:
Area C14
Thread #15:
Rotate your canvas a quarter turn counter-clockwise (top side to the right) to stitch Areas C13
and C14. Use 1 strand of Thread #5 for C13 and 1 strand of Thread #15 for C14.

Areas C9-16 - Small Triangle Pairs: Triangular Jessicas, continued
Step 16 - Area C15

Thread #16:
Area C16
Thread #5:
Rotate your canvas 180 degrees (top side to the left) to stitch Areas C15 and C16. Use 1 strand
of Thread #16 for C15 and 1 strand of Thread #5 for C16. When stitching is complete, rotate
your canvas a quarter turn to the right so that the top side is up.
C-6 C-14
C-16 C-8
C-11 C-1 C-12 C-2
C-3 C-9 C-4 C-10
C-5 C-13
C-15 C-7
Photo 4

Areas D1-2 -Small Outer Triangles:
Upright Gobelin with Plaited Ray Overlay
D1: Thread #17
D2: Thread #2
Step 17: For D1 use a 24" length of Thread #17 for the Upright Gobelin and for D2 use a
24" length of Thread #2 for the Upright Gobelin. Refer to Diagram 13. You will be
stitching from pencil line to pencil line, and you will be sharing a hole with a point of the
adjacent Double Fan Doubled. Lay the thread carefully. Start with Area D1 at the bottom
of your canvas.
Rotate your canvas a quarter turn to stitch each of the other Area Ds. The area that you
are stitching should always be at the bottom, i.e., closest to you.
Diagram 13
24
22 26
20
18
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25

Areas D1-2 -Small Outer Triangles:
Upright Gobelin with Plaited Ray Overlay, continued
Thread #4
Step 18: Use 1 ply of the 12-ply strand of Thread #4 for the Plaited Ray Overlay. Refer to
Diagram 14. Holes numbered 1/ 3/ 14/ 16 are at the top point of the triangular area and
also share with a point of the adjacent Double Fan Doubled. Photo 5 shows a completed
Area D1. When stitching is complete, rotate your canvas so that the top side is up.
Diagram 14
1,3, 14, 16
5 7
9
11
15 4, 8,12 2, 6,10 13
Photo 5
Areas A and B-Outlining: Backstitch

Thread #4
Step 19: Use 1 ply of the 12-ply strand of Thread #4 to outline Areas A and B
with backstitches over 1 canvas intersection.

Areas E1-4-Small Triangles Surrounding Large Squares: Hungarian
E1: Thread #18
E2: Thread #19
E3: Thread #13
E4: Thread #14
Follow the Road Map carefully for the placement of each Area E. E3 E2
E4 E2 E3 E1
E1 E4
Step 20 - The Area E triangles are filled with Hungarian stitch. This
pattern is stitched starting with the compensated row at the base of E4 E1
the triangle (the 6 sets of over-1/over-2/over-1 stitches) and working in E1 E3 E2 E4
horizontal rows back and forth across the canvas. Each stitch is E2 E3
worked from the bottom to the top. Refer to Diagram 15 and Photo 6.
Rotate your canvas as appropriate to stitch each triangle. Use 2
strands of the designated thread in a 30" length, starting with an
in-line waste knot.
Diagram 15
Photo 6

Areas F1-4-Large Squares: Square Jessica
Side A: Thread #4
Side B: Thread #20
Side C: Thread #8
Side D: Thread #9
C B
Step 21 - Locate and slightly enlarge the center hole of the square as it D F1 B C F2 A
will be used as a reference point later on. All of the Area F squares are A D
filled with a Square Jessica using 4 colors of thread. As a check for color
placement of Square Jessicas, the odd-numbered stitches of a side abut D A
A F4 C B F3 D
Area E using the equivalent color. B C
Start with Area F1. Use 3 plies of the 12-ply strand of Thread #4 to stitch the lower right corner
of the Square Jessica (Side A, Diagram 16). Use a 36" length of each thread and lay all of the
stitches carefully. You can anchor and end your threads in the back of the Hungarian triangles.
As with the Triangular Jessica, point your needle to the outside when you come up in the
odd-numbered holes and cross over all of the previous stitches before you go down in the
even-numbered holes. Follow Diagram 16. The stitch sequence is the same for each of the sides.
Each side of the Square Jessica begins and ends in a corner of the square.
Diagram 16
24
Photo 7: Area F1
Side C
22
20
18
16
14
12
Side A
10
1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23

Areas F1-4: Large Squares: Square Jessica, continued
Side A: Thread #4
Side B: Thread #20
Side C: Thread #8
Side D: Thread #9
Step 22: You will stitch each of the other sides (B, C, D) in turn working
C B
D F1 B C F2 A
counterclockwise around the square. A D
Rotate your canvas a quarter turn clockwise to stitch Side B and use 3 D A
plies of the 12-ply strand of Thread #20. The odd-numbered holes share A F4 C B F3 D
with stitches from Side A and the stitches of Side B overlap the Side A B C
stitches that are now along the bottom. Diagram 17 shows Side A (grey
lines) and Side B (black lines) together.
Diagram 17

Areas F1-4 Large Squares: Square Jessica, continued
Side A: Thread #4
Side B: Thread #20
Side C: Thread #8
Side D: Thread #9
C B
Step 23: Rotate your canvas a quarter turn clockwise to stitch Side C D F1 B C F2 A
and use 3 plies of the 12-ply strand of Thread #8. The odd-numbered A D
holes share with stitches from Side B and the stitches of Side C overlap
the Side B stitches that are now along the bottom. D A
A F4 C B F3 D
B C
Step 24: Rotate your canvas a quarter turn clockwise to stitch Side D
and use 3 plies of the 12-ply strand of Thread #9. The odd-numbered
holes share with stitches from Side C and the even-numbered stitches
share holes with Side A. The Side D stitches also overlap the Side C
stitches that are now along the bottom. You will still be following
Diagram 16, but before you go down in the even-numbered holes, you
must slide your needle under the Side A stitches. Take your time as
you do this so that you do not disturb previously laid stitches. Come
up at 1, slide your needle under the stitch between holes 1 and 3 of
Side A.
Side C
Hole 2 of Side D shares with hole 3
of Side A. You will always be sliding
under between the hole in which you
will go down and the previous hole.
Continue this sliding technique for
all of the stitches of Side D. This gives
the Square Jessica a completely woven
and uniform look.
When stitching is complete, rotate

your canvas a quarter turn clockwise
so that the top side is up.
Photo 7 shows a completed Square

Jessica.
Photo 7: Area F1
Side A

Areas F1-4 Large Squares: Square Jessica, continued
The other 3 Area F squares are worked in the same manner
as outlined in Steps 21-24, pages 19-21.
C B
Use 3 plies of the 12-ply strand D F1 B C F2 A
of the threads called for in A D
each section.
D A
A F4 C B F3 D
Side C
B C
Step 25: Area F2, use the following threads:

Side A - Thread #9
Side B - Thread #4 Side A
Side C - Thread #20
Side D - Thread #8
Side C

Side A - Thread #8
Side B - Thread #9
Side C - Thread #4
Side A
Side D - Thread #20
Side C

Side A - Thread #20
Side B - Thread #8
Side C - Thread #9
Side A
Side D - Thread #4

Areas F1-4-Large Square Fillings: Eight Point Star and Smyrna
Thread #1
Step 28 - The space inside the Area F Square Jessicas is filled with an Eight Point Star with a
Smyrna cross stitch in the center of it. Use a 20" length of Thread #1 to stitch both of these
elements. Start with a long away knot and follow Diagram 18 for the Eight Point Star. The
tiny circle on the diagram marks the center hole of the area. This Eight Point Star has only 1
layer, but the technique for stitching it is the same as in Step 1. Remember to slide the last
stitch of each pass under the first stitch of that pass. Do not end your thread when you
complete the Eight Point Star, but go directly on to the Smyrna, following Diagram 19. End
your threads in the back of the Smyrna. Photo 8 shows Area F complete.
Diagram 18 Diagram 19
5
13 3 5 1
7 8
4 2
10 12 2 6 4
7 3
11 15
Photo 8
6 8
16 14
1
9

Area G-Large Inner Triangles: Chilly Hollows
Thread #21
Step 29 - Start with the triangle in the upper right quadrant. Use a 36" length of
Thread #21, using 1 strand. This is a place where you may wish to consider color matching
the hand-dyed thread. Tie your thread into the back of the center of the Eight Point Star or
the adjacent Triangular Jessica (do not drag the thread across an open area). The first step is
to double stitch the anchor bars which support the Chilly Hollows. The anchor bars sit in the
inner corner of the triangle and are over 3 diagonal canvas intersections from pencil line to
pencil line. They are stitches 1-4. Refer to Diagram 20.
Come up at 5, which is 1 vertical canvas thread away from Area E4 (the Hungarian stitch
triangle) in that quadrant. Slide your needle under the anchor bars, then go over the anchor
bars and go down at 6, which is 11 diagonal canvas intersections up and to the left of 5.
Continue to follow the numbers on the chart, sliding under and going over the anchor bars with
every stitch. When you come up at the odd numbers, point your needle toward the outside
so you capture the carriage of thread on the back of the canvas within the Chilly Hollow
shape. As you stitch the Chilly Hollow, the anchor bars will bow outward away from the
corner of the triangle. Stitch 25-26 is the last stitch of the Chilly Hollow. Continue with the
same thread to stitch a small Eyelet in the absolute corner of the triangle, stitches 27-32. Refer
to Diagram 21 for the Eyelet. Hole 27 shares a hole with a point of the Eight Point Star.
Photo 9 shows the complete Chilly Hollow triangle. Quarter turn your canvas and follow
these instructions for the other 3 Chilly Hollow triangles. When stitching is complete, rotate
your canvas a quarter turn to the right so that the top side is up.
26
Diagram 21
28,30, 32
24 29
22
20
Diagram 20
27 31
18
16
14 Photo 9
12
10
8
6
25
23
21
19
17
15
13
11
2/4
9
7
5
1/3

Areas H1 Large Outer Triangles: Dagger Amadeus
Thread #18
Thread #3
Step 30: Start with Area H1 in the upper right quadrant. Use a 24" length
of Thread #18 for stitches 1-24. You will stitch the left side first, stitches
1-12, and then the right side, stitches 13-24. The right and left sides share H2 H1
the odd-numbered holes down their diagonal spine. You will use every
hole along the diagonal spine (odd numbers), but only every other hole
along the horizontal and vertical sides (even numbers). Tie on into the
back of one of the adjacent Area E triangles. Refer to Diagram 22 for the
stitch sequence. H1 H2
Note: The threads we used create a light, open texture. If you prefer
more coverage with this stitch, use 1 ply of the 3-ply strand of Thread #3 for stitches
1-24 and increase to 3 plies of the 12-ply strand of the stranded silk for the remaining
stitches of the Amadeus.
Hole 1 shares with the upper right corner of the Square Jessica. Hole 2 is 12 diagonal canvas
intersections up and to the right, and then 2 vertical canvas threads to the left from hole 1.
Come up at 3 pointing your needle to the outside (i.e. right side) of stitch 1-2, cross over stitch
1-2 and go down at 4. Continue this manner of stitching through Hole 12. After you go
down at 12, weave your thread through the back of the Amadeus and come back up in hole 1,
which is now number 13 on the right side. Go down at 14 which is 12 diagonal canvas
intersections up and to the right and then 2 horizontal canvas threads down from 13. Come
up at 15, pointing your needle to the outside (i.e. left side) of stitch 13-14, cross over stitch
13-14 and go down at 16. Continue this manner of stitching through hole 24. Weave your
thread through the back of the Amadeus and tie off behind an adjacent Area E triangle. You
do not want to drag any threads behind the open areas around the Amadeus.
12 10 8 6 4 2
Diagram 22 14
16
18
11/23
20
9/21
7/19
22
5/17
3/15
1/13 24

Area H1 Large Outer Triangles: Dagger Amadeus, continued
Thread #9
Step 31: Refer to Diagram 23 (page 27) for the remainder of the left side of
the Amadeus and Diagram 24 (page 27) for the remainder of the right
side of the Amadeus. Stitches 1-24 are shown in grey on these diagrams. H2 H1
Use 2 plies of the 12-ply strand of Thread #9 in a 30" length for stitches
25-50. Lay these stitches carefully. You will stitch the left side first and
then the right side. The technique is the described as on page 25. The
last stitch, printed in GREEN on the diagram (page 27), 49-50, comes up
at the outer corner and covers the diagonal spine of the Amadeus. H1 H2
Area H2 Large Outer Triangles: Dagger Amadeus

Thread #18
Thread #20
Step 32: Follow the instructions above and rotate your canvas a quarter turn for each of the
other Area H triangles. Use the same threads as above for the other Area H1 triangles. For
the Area H2 triangles, use 1 strand of Thread #18 for stitches 1-24 and 2 plies of the 12-ply
strand of Thread #20 for stitches 25-50. When stitching is complete, rotate your canvas a
quarter turn to the right so that the top side is up. Photo 10 shows a completed Amadeus.
Photo 10

Areas H1 & H2 Large Outer Triangles: Dagger Amadeus Diagrams
Diagram 23
36 34 32 30 28 26
35
33
31
29
27
25
Diagram 24

Area I Inner Border
Thread #4
Step 33: The Inner Border is 2 canvas threads wide. It is stitched in Slanted
Gobelin over 2 canvas intersections using 3 plies of the 12-ply strand of Thread
#4 . Use an in-line waste knot and start in the upper right corner. Change the
slant at the mid-point of each side. All of the stitches are worked in a wrapped
manner, as numbered. Take a tacking stitch over 1 canvas thread to transition
the change of slant at the corners. Refer to Diagram 25, which just shows the
center of a side, and to Photo 11 below.
15 13 11 9 8 6 4 2 4 6 2
Diagram 25 10 7 Diagram 26 8 7
16 14 12 5 3 1 1 5 3
Area J Outer Border:

Thread #1
Step 34: The Outer Border is also 2 canvas threads wide. It consists of laid
metallic braid that is couched down with a Greek Cross stitch variation, with a
Smyrna Cross stitch in each corner.
Laid Metallic Braid: Use a 40" length of Thread #1 and start in the upper left corner.
To start your thread, place a waste knot in the channel between the pencil lines of the border 8 vertical
canvas threads to the right of the left margin. Come up 1 vertical canvas thread to the left and place a
series of 3 or 4 backstitches over 1 canvas thread to anchor the braid (try to pierce the braid).
Come up at 1 of the Smyrna Cross on the pencil line at the left margin and clip off the waste
knot. Stitch the Smyrna Cross stitch in the corner referring to Diagram 26 above. After you
finish the Smyrna, bring the braid back up at hole 7 of the Smyrna, lay it all the way across the
top, going down 2 vertical canvas threads away from the right margin. Stitch a Smyrna in this
corner and then lay the braid down the side to the next corner. Continue in this manner until you
return to the Smyrna in the upper left corner. Take the braid to the back at hole 5 of that Smyrna.
Move the braid slightly aside and anchor it with a series of 3 or 4 backstitches over 1 canvas thread
in the channel behind the laid braid.
Photo 11
Inner Border
Outer Border

Area J Outer Border, continued
Thread #21
Step 35: Use 1 strand of Thread #21 to work the Greek Cross stitch
variation that couches down the laid metallic braid. A 48" length will do all of the oblique
stitches across one side. This Greek Cross stitch variation starts with a base of 2-by-4 oblique
stitches. Refer to Diagram 27.
Diagram 27
8 6 4
7 5 3 1
Start in the upper right corner and use an in-line waste knot. The oblique stitch base starts and
ends with a compensated stitch. Work the base stitches from right to left across the top. Then,
using the same thread, work the upright over-2 stitches that form the second part of the Greek
Cross stitch variation, working from left to right. A 30" length will do all of the over-2 stitches
across one side. Refer to Diagram 28. Photo 12 shows part of the Inner and Outer Borders.
Without rotating your canvas, stitch the bottom side following the instructions in Steps 33-35.
To stitch the left side, rotate your canvas clockwise a quarter turn and follow these same
instructions. Lastly, to stitch the right side, rotate your canvas clockwise 180 degrees and
follow these same instructions. When stitching is complete, rotate your canvas a quarter turn
clockwise so that the top side is up.
Diagram 28
2 4 6 8
1 3 5 7
Photo 12
Inner Border
Outer Border

Area K Middle Border
Thread #3
Step 36: There are 8 open canvas threads between the Inner and Outer
Borders. A Double Fan sits in each of the corners. Use 1 ply of Diagram 29
the 3-ply strand of Thread #3 for the Double Fans. Start the thread 3 7 11 15 18 14 10 6 2
with an L or T stitch in the center of the corner area or tie into

the back of the Outer Border, where you can also end the thread.
Be sure to maintain the twist in the thread as you stitch the Double
Fan. Refer to Diagram 29 for the stitch sequence. Photo 13 shows a
completed Double Fan.
Come up at 1 and go down at 2, leaving the stitch slightly loose on

4 8 12 16 17 13 9 5 1
top of the canvas. Come up at 3, slide under stitch 1-2, and go down
at 4. Adjust this cross so that it is centered over the center hole of the
corner area. See Diagram 30. The Double Fan now has 4 arms. You will
be adding threads to expand each of these arms by sliding under and
going over these arms. You will always travel in a clockwise direction. Diagram 30
3 2
Come up at 5, slide under arm 4, go over arm 3, and go down at 6. Come
up at 7, slide under arms 5 and 2, go over arms 1 and 5, and go down at 8.
The mantra for stitching a Double Fan is under-over 2 arms and then
down. You will continue this technique for the remaining stitches of the
Double Fan through hole 16. For the last stitch, 17-18, come up at 17,
carefully slide vertically under the center of the DF, and
go down in hole 18. This will keep the sides of the Double Fan 4 1
symmetrical.
Photo 14 shows the complete border patterns.
Photo 13
Photo 14

Area K Middle Border, continued
Thread #20
Thread # 9
Step 37: The area between the corner Double Fans is filled with a series of Half Rhodes stitches
and an Elongated Double Fan. Work the top side first, starting on the left side and working
toward the center. Leave 12 canvas threads open in the center and then continue working the Half
Rhodes to the right. The Elongated Double Fan will be in the open center area of each side. The
first Half Rhodes on either side shares holes with the adjacent Double Fan, and each Half Rhodes
shares holes with its neighbor.
You can begin the thread with a series of 3 backstitches in the center vertical channel of the first 8-thread
square area or you can tie into the back of the Outer Border.
Each Half Rhodes is 8 threads high and 8 threads wide. Use a 48" length of 3 plies of the 12-ply
strand of Thread #20 for the first 4 Half Rhodes, and then a 36" length of 3 plies of the 12-ply strand
of Thread #9 for the next 3 Half Rhodes. Use another 36" length of the second thread for the first 3
Half Rhodes to the right of center, and then switch to a 48" length of the first thread for the last 4
Half Rhodes to the right of center. Refer to Diagram 31 for the stitch sequence of the Half Rhodes.
This stitch sequence allows you to carry the thread from one Half Rhodes to another.
Come up at 1 and go down at 2. Come up at 3, cross over stitch 1-2 and go down at 4. Continue
coming up at the odd-numbers, crossing over all previous stitches and going down in the
even-numbers. Repeat the above instructions for the bottom side. To work the left and right sides,
rotate your canvas so that the side you are working is closest to your body. They are worked in
the same manner as the top and bottom sides, but the threads are reversed. For the series of 4 Half
Rhodes, use 3 plies of the 12-ply strand of Thread #9 and for the series of 3 Half Rhodes, use 3 plies
of the 12-ply strand of Thread #20. When the stitching is complete, rotate your canvas a quarter
turn to the left so that the top side is up.
Diagram 31
18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2
Photo 14
1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17

Area K Middle Border, continued
Thread #3
Step 38: An Elongated Double Fan fills the 8-thread by 12-thread open area in
the center of each side. Use a 16" length of 1 ply of the 3-ply strand of Thread
#3 for the Elongated Double Fan, and refer to Diagram 32 for the stitch
sequence.
This Elongated Double Fan is stitched using the same technique that was used for the Double
Fans in the corners of the border area. See Step 36. The last stitch, 17-18, will slide vertically
under the center of the Elongated Double Fan, and go down in hole 18. Start with the
Elongated Double Fan on the two sides and then rotate your canvas a quarter turn to stitch the
Elongated Double Fans on the top and bottom. Photo 15 shows a complete Elongated Double
Fan and Photo 16 shows the complete border patterns.
Diagram 32 Photo 15
18
15 14
11 10
7 6
3 2
4 1
8 5
12 9
16 13
17
Photo 16

Appalachia Appalachia
Lavender Green
Lilac Canvas Color Santa Fe Sage
Kreinik #12 Braid: 0294HL Thread 1: Kreinik #12 Braid: 0294HL
Caron Collection-Rachel: B-24 Thread 2: Caron Collection-Rachel: B-24
Caron Collection-Watercolours: Thread 3: Caron Collection-Watercolours:

236 Appalachia 236 Appalachia
Caron Collection-Waterlillies: Thread 4: Caron Collection-Waterlillies:

Caron Collection-Impressions: 6002 Thread 5: Caron Collection-Impressions: 6002
Caron Collection-Soie Cristale: 5024 Thread 8: Caron Collection-Soie Cristale: 5004
Caron Collection-Impressions: Thread 18: Caron Collection-Impressions:

Caron Collection-Wildflowers: Thread 21: Caron Collection-Wildflowers:


Appalachia
Cheyenne
Pink
Rose Blush Canvas Color Buttercream
Kreinik #12 Braid: 042 Thread 1: Kreinik #12 Braid: 308
Rainbow Gallery Flair: F584 Thread 2: Caron Collection: Rachel: B-26
Caron Collection-Watercolours: Thread 3: Caron Collection-Watercolours

237 Apple Blossom 220 Cheyenne
Caron Collection-Waterlillies: Thread 4: Caron Collection-Waterlilies

Caron Collection-Impressions: 4007 Thread 13: Caron Collection- Impressions: 1063
Caron Collection-Impressions: 4003 Thread 16: Caron Collection-Impressions:1060
Rainbow Gallery Flair: F503 Thread 17: Caron Collection Rachel: B-19
Caron Collection-Impressions: Thread 18: Caron Collection Impressions

Caron Collection-Wildflowers: Thread 21: Caron Collection-Wildflowers:


Tobacco Scheherazade
Eggshell Canvas Color Pewter
Caron Collection Rachel: B-39 Thread 2: Caron Collection Rachel: B-24
Caron Collection-Watercolours: Thread 3: Caron Collection-Watercolours:

036 Tobacco 184 Scheherazade
Caron Collection-Waterlilies: Thread 4: Caron Collection-Waterlilies:

Caron Collection- Soie Cristale: 1162 Thread 10: Caron Collection-Soie Cristale: 6010
Caron Collection Rachel: B-19 Thread 17: Caron Collection Rachel: B-19

Caron Collection-Impressions: 1164 Thread 19: Caron Collection--Impressions: 6013
Caron Collection-Wildflowers: Thread 21: Caron Collection Wildflowers:


Savannah Havana
Aquamarina Canvas Color Aquamarina
Caron Collection-Watercolours Thread 3: Caron Collection-Watercolours:

245 Savannah 199 Havana
Caron Collection-Waterlilies Thread 4: Caron Collection-Waterlilies:

Caron Collection-Impressions:5002 Thread 6: Caron Collection-Impressions: 5074
Caron Collection-Soie Cristale:1106 Thread 8: Caron Collection-Soie Cristale: 8086
Caron Collection Soie Cristale: 5000 Thread 11: Caron Collection-Soie Cristale: 5072
Caron Collection Soie Cristale: 1103 Thread 12: Caron Collection-Soie Cristale: 8084

Caron Collection Wildflowers: Thread 21: Caron Collection Wildflowers:


Arabian Nights Choose Your Own!
Pewter Canvas Color
Kreinik #12 Braid: 042 Thread 1:
Caron Collection Rachel: B-42 Thread 2:
Caron Collection-Watercolours: Thread 3:

170 Arabian Nights
Caron Collection-Waterlilies: Thread 4:

170 Arabian Nights
Caron Collection-Impressions: 2040 Thread 5:
Caron Collection-Soie Cristale: 1186 Thread 8:
Caron Collection- Soie Cristale: 2040 Thread 10:
Caron Collection: Rachel B-21 Thread 17:
Caron Collection-Impressions Thread 18:

170 Arabian Nights
Caron Collection-Wildflowers: Thread 21:

170 Arabian Nights

References:
Golden Gate Canvas Workers (ANG). A Background Stitch Reference Guide.
Self-published, Belmont, CA: 1988, revised 1999.
Hilton, Jean. Stimulating Stitches. Self-published, 1992.
Lake, Carole and Michael Boren. Twisty Stitches, v. 1, Amadeus - Jessica. Self-published, 2016.
Lantz, Sherlee and Maggie Lane. A Pageant of Pattern for Needlepoint Canvas.
Grosset and Dunlap, NY: 1973.
Rhodes, Mary. Dictionary of Canvaswork Stitches. Batsford, London: 1980.
Taggart, Jean. Laid Fillings for Evenweave Fabrics. Brockton Publishing, Houston: 1995.
Appalachian Spring
©2016 StitchPlay Designs
Michael E. Boren and Carole H. Lake
4003 Edgefield Ct.
Austin, TX 78731
Contact us:
www.stitchplay.com
michael@stitchplay.com
carole@stitchplay.com
Produced by:
sue dulle
611 East 109th Terrace
Kansas City, MO. 64131-4004
816-942-3733
sudu@kc.rr.com

Applachian Final

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Welcome!

©2012, rev. 2016 by Michael E. Boren and Carole H. Lake

Appalachian Spring page 1 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Appalachian Spring page 2 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

24 threads 24 threads 24 threads 24 threads

24 threads 24 threads 24 threads 24 threads

24 threads 24 threads 24 threads 24 threads 24 threads

Appalachian Spring page 3 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

IMPORTANT: Do NOT cut your skeins of thread until instructed to

Area A - Center Diamond-Eight Point Star

This stitch does NOT touch

the basted/drawn lines of the

To end your thread, come up 8 6

in the center horizontal channel

backstitches. Carefully move

Appalachian Spring page 4 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

The 2 passes share holes with each other.

The stitches of this layer are from pencil line to Photo 1

Slide stitch 7-8 under stitch 1-2 before you go

Photo 1 shows the foundation layer and the first

Appalachian Spring page 5 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Appalachian Spring page 6 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Appalachian Spring page 7 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Appalachian Spring page 8 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Appalachian Spring page 9 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Follow these same instructions for the other 3 Area B diamonds:

Area B2- Small Diamonds: Doubled Fan Doubled

Area B3- Small Diamonds: Doubled Fan Doubled

Area B4- Small Diamonds: Doubled Fan Doubled

Appalachian Spring page 10 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

C-11 C-1 C-12 C-2

C-3 C-9 C-4 C-10

Use a 30" length of thread to work each pair of Sprats Heads.

Appalachian Spring page 11 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Thread #8: C-3 C-9 C-4 C-10

Appalachian Spring page 12 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

C-3 C-9 C-4 C-10

triangle, count down over 2 horizontal canvas threads and over

Photo 4 on page 15 shows a completed Triangular Jessicas.

Appalachian Spring page 13 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

13/60 36/61 C-5 C-13

Step 13 - Area C10

Step 14 - Area C11

Step 15 - Area C13

Appalachian Spring page 14 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Step 16 - Area C15

C-11 C-1 C-12 C-2

C-3 C-9 C-4 C-10

Appalachian Spring page 15 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Appalachian Spring page 16 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Areas A and B-Outlining: Backstitch

Appalachian Spring page 17 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

the triangle (the 6 sets of over-1/over-2/over-1 stitches) and working in E1 E3 E2 E4

Appalachian Spring page 18 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Appalachian Spring page 19 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

Appalachian Spring page 20 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

When stitching is complete, rotate

Photo 7 shows a completed Square

Appalachian Spring page 21 © 2016 StitchPlay Designs

of the threads called for in A D

Step 25: Area F2, use the following threads:

Step 26: Area F3, use the following threads: