4-14 IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
DIODE &CONNECTOR TEST
.®
** WARNING
Ohmmeter tests must be conducted with the engine NOT running.
900 V6N8 Powerheads
• See Figure 26
1. Follow the wiring back from the shift switch. If not already done, first
disconnect the 1-pin Amphenol style connector in the black/yellow wire.
Next, disconnect the wiring between the power pack and the keyswitch (the
multi-pin connector at the engine harness AND the 2-wire connector at the
power pack.)
2. Connect the red meter lead to the black/yellow pin on the engine
harness connector. Connect the black meter lead to the black/orange pin on
the 2-pin harness connector (between the shift switch and power pack).
Observe the meter reading. If the ohmmeter is equipped with a polarity
button, press and hold the polarity button, note the meter reading. If the
meter does not have a polarity button, reverse the meter lead connections
TSM
and again observe the meter indication.
If the meter indicates a high reading in one direction and a low reading in
the other, both the diode and wiring harness are okay.
If the meter reading is the same in both directions, the wiring harness
and diode must be replaced
3. Connect the red meter lead to the black/yellow pin on the engine
harness connector. Connect the black meter lead to the black/yellow 2-pin
connector for the power pack. Observe the reading on the ohmmeter.
If the meter indicates low ohms, continue with the test. If the meter
indicates high ohms, replace the wiring harness.
4. Connect the red meter lead to the black/yellow pin on the engine
harness connector. Connect the black meter lead to the 1-pin connector of
the shift switch connector. Observe the reading on the ohmmeter.
If the meter indicates a high reading in one direction and a low reading in
the other, both the diode and wiring harness are good.
If the meter reading is the same in both directions, the wiring harness
must be replaced.
,
Power pack
\11. Jlr
Fig. 26 Blocking diode test hookup on a 900 V6 or V8 powerhead
600 V6 Powerheads
• See Figure 27
1. Follow the wiring back from the shift switch. If not already done, first
disconnect the 1-pin Amphenol style connector in the black/yellow wire.
Next, disconnect the wiring between the power pack and the keyswitch (the
multi-pin connector in the engine harness.)
Troy's Service Manuals
T
Fig. 27 Blocking diode test hookup on a 600 V6 powerhead
2. Connect the red meter lead to the black/yellow pin on the engine
harness connector. Connect the black meter lead to the black/yellow pin on
the 1-pin harness connector for the switch (with the black/yellow wire).
Observe the meter reading. If the ohmmeter is equipped with a polarity
button, press and hold the polarity button, note the meter reading. If the
meter does not have a polarity button, reverse the meter lead connections
and again observe the meter indication.
If the meter indicates a high reading in one direction and a low reading in
the other, both the diode and wiring harness are okay.
If the meter reading is the same in both directions, the wiring harness
and diode must be replaced
Charge Coil
• See Figures 13 and 14
All carbureted Evinrude/Johnson motors are equipped with an ignition
system charge coil that is used to generate voltage to power the ignition
system. The coil windings are part of the stator assembly that is centered
and mounted directly under the flywheel to interact with permanent magnets
attached to the underside of the flywheel assembly. As the flywheel rotates,
the magnetic force cuts through the coil assembly, generating an electric
current that is utilized by the ignition system.
Although the coil windings can be tested separately on carbureted
motors, damage to any charge, power or stator coil winding requires
replacement of the entire stator assembly.
TESTING
• See Figures 28 and 29
Charge coil testing typically encompasses making sure the wiring is in
good condition, then verifying coil output (using a peak-reading DVOM) while
cranking the motor and/or checking resistance (using an ohmmeter) across
the coil windings when the motor is not turning. The charge coil and wiring
can also be checked for shorts to ground either using the peak-reading
DVOM while the motor is cranking or the ohmmeter when the motor is at
rest.
Problems with the ignition charge coil usually cause a no start condition.
But, a partial short of the coil winding can cause hard starting and/or an
ignition misfire. The most reliable tests for the charge coil are to dynamically
check the output with the engine cranking (or in some cases, running). Of
course, dynamic tests require a digital multi-meter capable of reading and
displaying peak voltage values (also known as a peak-reading voltmeter). If
one is not available, specifications are usually available to statically check
 IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 4-15
oQ) <D
500
Fig. 28 Charge or power coil testing involves checking between
the appropriate harness terminals and a good engine ground to
make sure there are no shorts to ground. This test can be
TSM
conducted with a voltmeter (engine cranking) and/or an
ohmmeter (engine static)
the coil winding using an ohmmeter. But, before replacing the coil based
only on static test that shows borderline readings, remember that resistance
readings will vary with temperature and the specifications provided here are
based on a component temperature of about 680F (20°C). Also, remember
that a coil may test within specification statically, but show intermittent
faults under engine operating conditions, especially at normal operating
temperature.
• The charge coil wiring varies slightly from motor-to-motor, but they
are always brown or brown with a tracer color wires on
Evinrude/Johnson motors. The tracer colors may be yellOW, white or
black. Refer to the schematics found in the Wiring Diagram section for
more details on the charge coil circuit.
1. Set a peak-reading DVOM to read positive in the 500 volts scale,
then check for a grounded charge coil as follows:
a. Disengage the charge coil wiring between the stator and the power
pack. On all motors, this harness contains brown and, brown w/ a tracer
color, wires from the stator's charge coil windings. But, the connector(s) and
location(s) vary slightly by model:
• On 65 Jet-115 hp (1632cc) 90° V4 motors, disengage the single 2-pin
connector located in the harness between the stator and power pack.
• On 80 Jet-175 hp (1726/2589cc) 60° V4N6 motors, disengage the
multi-pin (usually 4- or 6-pin) connector from the power pack itself.
• On 120-300 hp (2000/3000/4000cc) 90° V4N6N8 motors, disengage
the 2-pin connector(s) located inline between the stator and the power pack.
The V4 motors contain one connector, while the V6 and V8 motors utilize a
separate connector for each group of cylinders. For these motors the
forward connector is for cylinder Nos. 1, 3 and 5 (V6) or 5, 6, 7 and 8 (V8),
while the rear connector is for cylinder Nos. 2, 4 and 6 (V6) or 1, 2, 3 and 4
(V8).
b. Connect the black meter probe to a good engine ground and the red
probe either to one of the brown charge coil leads (on the stator side of the
harness). Crank the engine and observe, then note the reading.
c. Move the red meter probe to the other brown (or brown with tracer)
charge coil lead, then crank the engine and observe the meter again.
• If you don't have access to a peak reading DVOM, you can perform
a static test, checking each of these brown leads to ground using an
ohmmeter. Any continuity indicates a short to ground. BUT, keep in
mind, high resistance doesn't mean that an intermittent short to
ground cannot occur at operating temperatures or under load. This is
why a cranking test is a better indication of charge coil condition.
d. Any voltage reading from either test connection indicates a short in
the charge coil or harness. Either, locate and repair the problem with the
Troy's Service Manuals
DQ) Q)
500
Fig. 29 Charge or power coil testing also involves checking volt-
age output while the motor is cranking and/or checking resis-
tance across coil windings while the motor is at rest-cranking
test on a typical stator shown
harness, or replace the charge coil. For 90° V6 and V8 models, repeat the
test at the other 2-pin connector.
2. Check the charge coil cranking output using the peak-reading
voltmeter, set to the same scale. Connect the meter probes to the two brown
leads from the charge coil and crank the engine. Note the meter reading and
compare it to the specifications provided in the Ignition Testing
SpeCifications-Carbureted Motors, chart in this section. For 90° V6 and V8
models, repeat the test at the other 2-pin connector.
• If the cranking voltage is within spec, but ignition problems still exist,
perform the Sensor Coil test on 90° motors or the Power Pack, Cranking
Output test, on 60° motors.
• If the cranking voltage is below the specification, check the
wiring/connectors, then, if the wiring appears to be in good shape, check coil
resistance.
3. With the engine not running or cranking, connect the probes from a
DVOM set to read resistance across the two brown (or brown w/ tracer)
leads from the charge coil. Note the meter reading and compare it to the
specifications provided in the Ignition Testing Specifications-Carbureted
Motors, chart in this section. Remember that these specifications are for a
temperature of about 68°F (20°C).
4. Verify test results and connections, then replace the charge coil, if
any reading is well out of specification.
5. Reconnect all wiring as removed for testing.
TE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
• See Figures 16, 30, 31 and 32
The charge coil windings are integrated into the 1-piece stator assembly
mounted directly under the flywheel. Once the flywheel is removed for
access; removal and installation is a relatively simple matter of tagging and
disconnecting the wiring and unbolting the stator itself.
** WARNING .
Refer to Flywheel in the Powerhead section for details on removal
and installation. Do not risk damage to the flywheel itself by using an
improper holding tool (Le. a prybar on one of the ring gear teeth) or
using an improper puller (a jawed instead of a threaded puller, for
instance). Handle the flywheel with care, never strike or jar the flywheel
for fear of breaking/cracking the housing or damaging the permanent
magnets used by the stator to generate current.
 4-16 IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
• Prior to removal, make a quick sketch or take a photograph
(aren't digital cameras great?) of the wire harness routing. During
installation, be sure to position all wires as noted before removal so as
to prevent possible interference with moving parts. Remember that
contact with a component such as the flywheel could break wear
through the insulation or the wires themselves. An exposed portion of
wire could short damaging the coil windings or other components in
the system.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety.
2. Remove the Flywheel, as detailed in the Powerhead section.
3. On 60 0 motors, remove the regulator cover for access.
• On most models you will have to cut one or more wire ties
securing the harness in position. Take close note of the wire tie
locations for installation purposes. Also, for some models, like 600
powerheads, you'll have to carefully remove the harness grommet to
free the harness from the cylinder block.
4. Tag and disengage the stator wiring.
• On 60 0 motors, disengage the multi-pin connector at the power pack
and the 2-pin connector for the voltage regulator or, for rope start models,
the leads from the terminal board.
• On 90 0 motors, disengage the inline engine harness connectors (there
may be 2, 3 or 4 connectors depending on the model) and the brown and/or
10. Reconnect the stator wiring as tagged and noted during removal. If
any wires are attached to a terminal strip, coat the ends lightly using
Evinrude/Johnson Neoprene Dip or equivalent sealant to protect them from
moisture and keep them from loosening. Secure the harnesses using new
wire ties in the original tie locations, again, as noted during removal.
• Double check the positioning of all wires that were disturbed
during service. Make sure the wires are routed properly and, any wire
ties that were removed, are replaced with new ties.
11. On 60 0 motors, install the regulator cover.
12. Install the Flywheel, as detailed under Powerhead.
13. Connect the negative battery cable.
Power Coil
Some carbureted Evinrude/Johnson motors are equipped with an ignition
system power coil that is used to generate voltage for various ignition
system functions. On most motors equipped with a power coil, the voltage
generated from the coil windings is provided to the power pack (ignition
module) in order to operate ignition system functions such as the Speed
Limiting Operator Warning (S.L.O.w.) and/or QuikStart systems.
Like the charge coil, the power coil windings are part of the stator
assembly that is centered and mounted directly under the flywheel to
interact with permanent magnets attached to the underside of the flywheel

TSM
yellow stator leads at the terminal board. Keep in mind that the sensor coil
assembly. As the flywheel rotates, the magnetic force cuts through the coil
wiring is also coming out of this general area, but it is NOT necessary to
assembly, generating an electric current that is utilized by the ignition
disconnect it, unless the sensor coil is also being serviced. Generally
system.
speaking the stator (power and/or charge coil wiring is orange, yellow and
Although the factory technical information for the 90 0 loopers mentions
brown with various tracer colors).
the use of a power coil (and the orange leads in the wiring diagrams for
these models would tend to agree) no separate specifications or test
• We said to TAG and disconnect the wiring and we meant it. It is procedures are provided. Testing procedures and specifications are however
one thing if you only have 2 wiring connectors of different sizes and
provided for the carbureted 600 motors. If you are working on an 80 Jet-175
shapes (as on some 600 powerheads), but if you've got multiple
hp (1726/2589cc) V4N6 motors, the following procedure can be used to
connectors of the same size as and/or ring terminals attached to a
check the power coil windings.
terminal board, proper installation is CRITICAL to powerhead
Keep in mind that although the coil windings can be tested separately on
operation. Don't take any chances, take a photo, write and note and
some motors, damage to any charge, power or stator coil winding requires
tag them before removal.
replacement of the entire stator assembly.
5. Loosen the screws retaining the stator coil to the powerhead, then
remove the stator assembly.
To install:
6. Carefully inspect the stator mounting surface and retaining screw
holes for signs of corrosion or varnish. For proper operation, the stator
MUST have a clean, metal-to-metal contact with the powerhead and
retaining screws.
TESTING
7. Place the stator coil in position on the powerhead, and position the
• See Figures 28 and 29
wiring harnesses as noted during removal. MAKE SURE that each wire is
positioned so to ensure it will not contact moving components. If used,
Power coil testing typically encompasses making sure the wiring is in
reseat any grommets in the powerhead.
good condition, then verifying coil output and/or checking resistance across
8. Throughly clean the stator retaining screw threads. Be sure to
the coil windings.
remove all traces of corrosion or sealant. Apply a light coating of
Evinrude/Johnson Locquic Primer or equivalent to the screw threads and Problems with the ignition power coil can result in a no-spark condition,
allow it to dry then apply a light coating of Evinrude/Johnson Nut Lock, or but can also account for hard starting and/or an ignition misfire.
equivalent threadlock. The most reliable tests for the power coil are to dynamically check the
9. Install the stator retaining screws and tighten to 120-144 inch Ibs. output with the engine cranking (or in some cases, running). Of course,
(14-16 Nm). dynamic tests require a digital mUlti-meter capable of reading and displaying

Fig. 30 In some cases a puller is Fig. 31 Remove the stator retaining Fig. 32 ... then lift the stator assembly
necessary to help free the flywheel bolts ... from the mounting plate

Troy's Service Manuals

 IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 4-17
peak voltage values (also known as a peak-reading. voltmeter). If one i.s not
available, specifications are usually available to statically check the call
winding using an ohmmeter. But, before replacing the coil based only on
static test that shows borderline readings, remember that resistance read-
ings will vary with temperature and the specifications provided here are
based on a component temperature of about 68°F (20°C). Also, remember
that a coil may test within specification statically, but show intermittent faults
under engine operating conditions, especially at normal operating
temperature.

• Refer to the schematics found in the Wiring Diagram section for

more details on the power coil circuit.

1. Set a peak-reading DVOM to read positive in the 500 volts scale,

then check for a grounded power coil as follows:
a. Disengage the power coil wiring between the stator and the power
pack. On these motors, this means removing the multi-pin (usually 4- or 6-
pin) connector from the power pack itself.
b. Connect the black meter probe to a good engine ground and the red
probe either to one of the orange or orange/black power coil leads (on the Fig. 33 The sensor coil used on all 900 powerheads is also
referred to as the sensor base assembly, as it is mounted under
stator side of the harness). Crank the engine and observe, then note the
reading. the flywheel and stator
c. Move the red meter probe to the other orange (or orange with tracer)
power coil lead, then crank the engine and observe the meter again.
magnets in the flywheel. This signal is used .by the power pack ~o fire the
ignition coils at the appropriate times. The nickname Trigger COIl comes from
• If you don't have access to a peak reading DVOM, you can perform

TSM
a static test, checking each of these brown leads to ground uSing an
ohmmeter. Any continuity indicates a short to ground. BUT, keep in
mind, high resistance doesn't mean that an intermittent short to . .
ground cannot occur at operating temperatures or under load. ThiS IS
why a cranking test is a better indication of charge coil condition.
d. Any voltage reading from either test connection indicates a short in
the power coil or harness. Either, locate and repair the problem with the
harness, or replace the power coil.
2. Check the power coil cranking output using the peak-reading
voltmeter, set to the same scale. Connect the meter probes to the two
orange leads from the power coil and crank the engine. Note the meter
reading and compare it to the specifications provided in the Ignition Testing
Specifications-Carbureted Motors, chart in this section. ..
• If the cranking voltage is within spec, but ignition problems stili eXist,
either perform the Sensor Coil test (if there is no spark on any cylinder) or
check the QuikStart system (if there is good spark but the motor still doesn't
run) .
• If the cranking voltage is below the specification, check the
wiring/connectors, then, if the wiring appears to be in good shape, check COil
resistance.
3. With the engine not running or cranking, connect the probes from a
DVOM set to read resistance across the two orange (or orange w/ tracer)
leads from the power coil. Note the meter reading and compare it to the
specifications provided in the Ignition Testing Specifications-Carbureted
Motors, chart in this section. Remember that these specifications are for a
temperature of about 680F (200C). . .
4. Verify test results and connections, then replace the power Call, If any
reading is well out of specification.
5. Reconnect all wiring as removed for testing.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
• See Figures 16, 30, 31 and 32
When equipped, the power coil windings are part of the 1-piece stator
coil assembly. For removal and installation procedures, please refer to
Charge Coil, in this section.
this function.
The sensor coil is therefore normally mounted near the flywheel. On
all motors, except the 80 Jet-175 Hp (1726/2589cc) V4N6 outboards, the
sensor coil is mounted under the dead center of the flywheel. On these
motors the sensor coil is referred to as a timer base, because it is mounted
under ~ther ignition system components, like the stator. However, the optical
sensor used on 600 outboards is mounted, along with the timing wheel,
ABOVE the flywheel.
• The manufacturer provides only limited information for testing the
optical sensors used on 60 0 motors, and even that is limited unless
you use the manufacturer's Ignition Analyzer tool. They also warn that
because of the way in which optical sensor's function, you must make
sure the sensors are kept clean and free of dirt or debris to ensure
proper function .
Signals from the sensor coil are generated at certain pOints in flywheel
revolution, thus alerting the power pack to exact engine (crankshaft/piston)
positioning. In turn, the power pack uses the signal to determine proper
.
spark timing. In this manner, a spark at the plug may be accurately timed by
the timing marks on the flywheel relative to the magnets in the flywheel and
to provide as many as 100 sparks per second for a powerhead operating at
6000 rpm.
TESTING
Most carbureted motors, except the 80 Jet-175 Hp (1726/2589cc) 600
V4N6 outboards, are equipped with a sensor coil that operates in the sam~
manner as a charge, power or battery charge coil. Therefore, except on 60
motors, the sensor coil generates a voltage using the electromagnetic force
created by magnets attached to the flywheel. On these motors, testing IS
therefore conducted in the same manner as the charge, power or battery
charge coils. A voltmeter is used to perform dynamic checks (watching for
voltage while cranking the motor checking for shorts to ground and/or for
proper output), while an ohmmeter is used for static checks (testing the
windings for proper resistance and checking for shorts to ground).

SensorlTrigger Coil
• See Figure 33
All modern Evinrude/Johnson engines are equipped with some form of a
sensor or trigger coil. Various forms of the sensor exist, and not all can be
accurately described as a coil (such as the optical sensors used on 80 Jet-
175 Hp [1726/2589ccj60 0 V4N6 motors). But on most carbureted motors
some form of sensor is used to generate a voltage based on the rotating
• The only testing information provided by the manufacturer for
the optical sensors used on 60 0 motors is the use of the
manufacturer's Ignition Analyzer tool. However, because of the manner
in which optical sensors function, remember that they must be kept
clean and free of dirt or debris to ensure proper function. Many sensor
malfunctions can be traced to a dirty sensor lens.
• Refer to the schematics found in the Wiring Diagram section for
more details on the sensor coil circuit.

Troy's Service Manuals

 4-18 IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
65 Jet-115 hp (1632cc) 90° V4
• See Figure 34
This is a 3-part test to determine the condition and serviceability of the
sensor coil. The first-a ground test, checks the sensor coil and wiring for a
short to ground. The second part-an output test, checks the sensor coil
voltage while cranking the powerhead. The third part-a resistance check, will
determine if the coil or windings have an internal open or short to ground.
• A peak-reading OVOM like the Stevens CO-77 is necessary for this
test.
1. Set the peak reading voltmeter to provide positive sensor readings
on the 5 volts scale (on the Stevens meter that is accomplished by setting
pas and 5, or SEN and 5).
2. Disengage the 5-pin Amphenol connector located between the power
pack (ignition module) and the sensor coil mounted under the flywheel.
3. Check for a grounded sensor coil by connecting the meter red lead
alternately to each of the sensor terminals and the black meter lead to
ground, then cranking the engine and observing the reading. Any voltage
TSM
reading indicates that the sensor coil or wiring harness is shorted to ground.
Either repair the harness or replace the sensor coil assembly.
4. Next, check the sensor coil output. Attach the black meter probe to
the sensor lead for terminal E (white wire) and the red meter probe to one of
the remaining terminals A, B, C, or 0 (colored wires). Crank the engine and
note the meter reading, then move the red meter probe to the next colored
wire terminal and repeat until all combinations with terminal E and each of
the colored wire terminals have been checked:
• If the meter reads 0.3 volts or higher, sensor output it probably good. If
further ignition troubleshooting is necessary, test the Power Pack output
while cranking, as detailed in this section.
• If the meter shows less than 0.3 volts, first check the wiring and
connectors. If the wiring and connectors appear in good condition, proceed
with the ohmmeter test in the next step.
5. With the engine not running or cranking, check the sensor coil
windings using an ohmmeter. Attach the black meter probe to the sensor
lead for terminal E (white wire) and the red meter probe to one of the
remaining terminals A, B, C, or 0 (colored wires). Note the meter reading,
then move the red meter probe to the next colored wire terminal and repeat
until all combinations with terminal E and each of the colored wire terminals
have been checked. Resistance across each combination must be 30-50
ohms. Remember the specifications are for a component at a temperature of
about 68°F (20°C).
• The sensor coil can also be checked for a possible short to ground
by probing between a good engine ground and each of the sensor coil
leads. If the meter shows continuity between any lead and ground, the
wiring or the sensor coil itself is grounded. Repair the harness or
replace the sensor coil, as necessary.
6. Verify test results and connections, then replace the sensor coil, if
the reading is well out of specification.
7. Reconnect all wiring as removed for testing.
Fig. 34 Sensor coil ground test (left) and output test (right)
hookup on a the 900 CV motors (65 jet-115 hp V4)
Troy's Service Manuals
80 Jet-175 hp (1726/2589cc) 60° V4N6
The optical sensor used on 60° outboards is mounted to the top, center
of the flywheel cover assembly and used, in conjunction with the timing
wheel to determine crankshaft positioning. Because the sensor functions by
creating an optical Signal, it can be thrown off by sources of intense light,
causing ignition misfiring. If possible, avoid running the motor with the
engine in bright sunlight if the timing wheel cover is removed. And, during
service or operation, never point a timing light directly at the sensor.
• The manufacturer provides no information for sensor testing,
OTHER than to use the Evinrude/Johnson Ignition Analyzer.
1. Remove the regulator/rectifier cover for access.
2. Disengage the timing sensor electrical connector, then attach the
Evinrude/Johnson Ignition Analyzer to the sensor and to a 12-volt power
source (such as a properly charged marine battery).
3. Set the analyzer switch to position B for V4 motors or A for V6
motors, then press the analyzer reset button.
4. Crank the engine for a minimum of 3 complete revolutions using the
starter and while observing the meter. If the GOOD indicator flashes while
cranking, the problem is NOT with the timing sensor. Proceed with Charge
Coil testing, or the next appropriate step of the Ignition Troubleshooting chart
for 60° outboards. If the BAD indicator flashes, or the GOOD and BAD
indicator lights flash alternately, first double-check the condition of the timing
wheel and if no dirt or damage is found, replace the timing sensor.
5. Remove the analyzer tool and reconnect the wiring once the test and
repairs are complete.
120-140 hp (2000cc) 90° V4
• See Figure 35
This is a 3-part test to determine the condition and serviceability of the
sensor coils. The ground test checks the sensor coils and wiring for a short
to ground. The output test checks the sensor coil voltage while cranking the
powerhead. The resistance check will determine if the coils or windings have
an internal open or short to ground.
an all models, except the 125RW, there are 2 sets of sensor coil
windings, the normal and advance coils. They are testing in the same
manner, except that the resistance specifications vary. The 5-pin connector,
found on the port side, is for the normal coil while the 4-pin connector on the
starboard side is for the advance coil.
• A peak-reading OVOM like the Stevens CO-77 is necessary for this
test.
1. Set the peak reading voltmeter to provide positive sensor readings
on the 5 volts scale (on the Stevens meter that is accomplished by setting
pas and 5, or SEN and 5).
Fig. 35 Sensor coil ground test (left) and output test (right)
hookup on V4120-140 hp powerheads (note specifications and
wiring are for a" models except the 125WR which uses a single
connector)
 IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 4-19
• These models are equipped with 2 separate connectors between
the power pack and the sensor coil mounted under the flywheel. One is
a 4-pin, while the other is a 5-pin connector. Other connectors coming
out from underneath the flywheel are for the stator. The connectors
with orange and brown wires are for the power/charge coil windings in
the stator, while the connectors with the blue, purple and green wires
are for the sensor/trigger coil windings.

2. Disengage the 4- and 5-pin Amphenol connectors for the

sensor/trigger coil assembly.

• The sensor coil used on 125RW models only contains the 5-pin
connector.
3. Check for a grounded sensor coil or wire at each terminal of the
sensor connectors by attaching the meter red probe to the terminal and
black probe to ground, then cranking the motor while watching the meter.
Repeat this for each of the terminals of both connectors. Any voltage
reading from one of the connections indicates that the sensor coil or wiring
harness is shorted to ground. Either repair the harness or replace the
sensor coil assembly.
4. Check the sensor coil output as follows:
a. Attach the black meter probe to the sensor lead for terminal E (white
wire) of the 5-pin connector and the red meter probe to terminal to one of
the other wires on the 5-pin connector, then crank the engine and note the
meter reading. Repeat this step for each of the 4 terminals on the 5-pin
Fig. 36 Sensor coil output test hookup-normal coil testing
(Ieft)-involves connecting the white wire sequentially to each of the
colored wires in both connectors. Advance coil testing (right)
involves reconnecting the white and black/white wires with
jumpers, then checking between each colored wire and ground
The first part-the ground test-checks the sensor coils and wiring for a
short to ground. The next part-an output test, checks the sensor coil voltage
while cranking the powerhead. The third portion-the resistance check, will
determine if the coils or windings have an internal open or short to ground.
On all models, there are 2 sets of sensor coil windings, the normal and
advance coils. They are testing in the same manner, except that the resis-
tance specifications vary. The connector, found on the port side, is for the

TSM
connector and then for the 4 terminals on the 4-pin connector.
• If the meter reads 0.5 volts or higher for all models except the 125RW
which must be 0.3 volts or greater, but ignition system trouble is still
suspected, perform the cranking output test for the Power Pack, as detailed
in this section.
• If the meter shows less than 0.5 volts (or 0.3 volts on the 125RW), first
check the wiring and connectors, and then perform the resistance checks in
the next step. If the wiring and connectors appear in good condition, but the
coil continues to test out of specification, replace the sensor coil.
5. With the engine not running or cranking, connect the DVOM black
lead to terminal E (white wire). Then connect the red meter probe alternately
to each of the remaining terminals in the port, 5-pin connector, noting the
resistance readings across terminal E and each of the other terminals. This
will give you the resistance for the normal coil windings. Resistance across
each combination must be 35-55 ohms. Remember the specifications are for
a component at a temperature of about 68 0F (200C).
6. Except for 125RW models (since they do not use the advance coil),
probe each of the terminals for the 4-pin connector to check the advance
coil windings in the same manner as the previous step when checking the
normal coil windings. Note the resistance reading across terminal E of the
5-pin connector and each of the 4-pin connector terminals, it should be
100-160 ohms at a temperature of about 680F (200C).
7. If the resistance readings are out of specification either repair or
replace the damaged harness or replace the sensor coil assembly, as
applicable.
8. The sensor coil can also be checked for a possible short to ground
by probing between a good engine ground and each of the sensor coil
leads. If the meter shows continuity between any lead and ground the wiring
or the sensor coil itself is grounded. Repair the harness or replace the
sensor coil, as necessary.
9. Verify test results and connections, then replace the sensor coil, if
any reading is well out of specification.
10. Reconnect all wiring as removed for testing.
normal coil while the connector on the starboard side is for the advance coil.
The two connectors can also be identified by the final terminal (0 on the 4-
pin connectors or E on the 5-pin connectors) wire colors. The final terminal
contains a white lead on the port connector and a black/white wire on the
starboard or connector.
• A peak-reading OVOM like the Stevens CO-77 is necessary for this
test.
1. Set the peak reading voltmeter to provide positive sensor readings
on the 5 volts scale (on the Stevens meter that is accomplished by setting
pas and 5, or SEN and 5).
• These models are equipped with 2 separate connectors between
the power pack and the sensor coil mounted under the flywheel. Other
connectors coming out from underneath the flywheel are for the stator.
The connectors with orange and brown wires are for the power/charge
coil windings in the stator, while the connectors with the blue, purple
and green wires are for the sensor/trigger coil windings.
2. Disengage the two 4-pin (V6) or two 5-pin (V8) Amphenol connectors
for the sensor/trigger coil assembly.
3. Check for a grounded sensor coil or wire at each terminal of the
sensor connectors by attaching the meter red probe to the terminal and
black probe to ground, then cranking the motor while watching the meter.
Repeat this for each of the terminals of both connectors. Any voltage
reading from one of the connections indicates that the sensor coil or wiring
harness is shorted to ground. Either repair the harness or replace the
sensor coil assembly.

185-300 hp (3000/4000cc) 90° V6N8

• See Figures 36 and 37

This is a 3-part test to determine the condition and serviceability of the

Fig. 37 Sensor coil resistance testing-involves checking each
sensor coils. The V6 powerhead is equipped with two four-pin connectors on
terminal to the white wire in the port side connector (Ieft)-then
the timer base where the V8 unit is equipped with two five-pin connectors.
checking the white wire (port side) to the black/white wire in the
This is a combined test for the V6 and V8 sensor coil. Where differences
starboard connector
exist between the V6 and V8 powerheads-appropriate notations are made in
the text.

Troy's Service Manuals

 4-20 IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
4. Check the sensor coil output as follows:
a. Attach the black meter probe to the sensor lead for the white wire
terminal D (V6) or E V8 of the normal coil winding (port) connector. Connect
the red meter probe to one of the other wires on the same connector, then
crank the engine and note the meter reading. Repeat this step for each of
the remaining terminals on the port connector. Next, leave the black meter
probe on the white wire of the port connector and move the red meter probe
to each of the colored wires on the starboard connector. Again, crank the
engine and note the meter readings across each terminal.
• If the meter reads 0.2 volts or higher, the normal coil winding is
checking within specification, proceed to Step B in order to check the
advance coil winding.
• If the meter shows less than 0.2 volts, first check the wiring and
connectors, then check the normal coil winding resistance as detailed later
in this procedure. If the wiring and connectors appear in good condition, but
any coil winding continues to test out of specification, replace the sensor
coil.
b. Use 2 jumper wires to attach the white and white/black leads of the
disengaged sensor coil connectors (wire terminals D (V6) or E V8 of both
the port and starboard coil windings). Then attach the black meter probe to a
good engine ground and the red meter probe to one of the colored wires on
starboard connector. Crank the engine and note the meter reading, then
repeat for each of the remaining colored wire terminals on both the
starboard and port connectors.
• If the meter reads 1.2 volts or higher for 1992-94 models or 0.8 volts
or higher for 1995 and later models, the advance coil winding is checking in
TSM
specification. Perform the cranking output test for the Power Pack, as
detailed in this section if ignition system problems are still suspected.
• If the meter shows less than 1.2 volts for 1992-94 models or 0.8 volts
for 1995 and later models, check the wiring and connectors and perform the
resistance check in the next step. If the wiring and connectors appear in
good condition, replace the sensor coil assembly.
5. With the engine not running or cranking, connect the DVOM red lead
to the final terminal (white wire) on the port connector. Then connect the
black meter probe alternately to each of the remaining terminals in the port
connector, noting the resistance readings across terminal D (V6), or E (V8)
and each of the other terminals. Keep the red lead on the white wire in the
port connector, but next move the black lead to each of the colored wire
terminals on the starboard connector. Resistance readings will vary slightly
depending on the meter used, but in all cases a high-quality DVOM is
necessary. Some examples of readings on different meters include:
• Stevens AT-1 01 : 330-390 ohms.
• Merc-O-Tronic M-700: 870-1070 ohms.
• Fluke 29 Series II: no specification provided for models through 1994
or 875-1075 ohms for 1995 and later models. Of course, since the other test
specifications are the same for early models, there is no reason to believe
that this spec shouldn't apply to earlier models as well. In all cases, if using
a Fluke 29 Series II, make sure the meter is set to the low resistance
(40 ohms) scale.
• Remember that resistance specifications are for a component at a
temperature of about 68°F (200C).
Flywheel-
~ _'. _. _ " .' Flywheel assy.
StatorassY.~i
el'- Retainer
~ i~_-
. - -- 1../
0lJ =-=="
~
~
..... b 6)
~
ClJJ ==-==
Stator assy.
~~~
~
Timer base
&sensorassy~~v
~ ~
Pivot bushing socket 'e
Retainer-~' Pivot bushing-4
a
Fig. 38 Exploded view of the flywheel, Fig. 39 Exploded view of the flywheel,
stator and sensor coil-65 Jet-115 hp stator and sensor coil-120-300 hp
(1632cc) 90CV4 motors (2000/3000/4000cc) 900 100perV4N6N8
motors (V6N8 shown, V4 very similar)
Troy's Service Manuals
6. Connect the meter red probe to the final terminal (D for V6 motors or
E for V8 motors) white wire for the port connector and the black lead to the
black/white wire of the same terminal on the starboard connector.
Resistance across the final terminals should be 200-260 ohms for V6
outboards or 140-180 ohms for V8 outboards. In both cases, speCifications
are for a temperature of about 680F (200C).
7. If the resistance readings are out of specification either repair or
replace the damaged harness or replace the sensor coil assembly, as
applicable.
8. The sensor coil windings can also be checked for a possible short to
ground by probing between a good engine ground and each of the sensor
coil leads. If the meter shows continuity between any lead and ground the
wiring or the sensor coil itself is grounded. Repair the harness or replace the
sensor coil, as necessary.
9. Verify test results and connections, then replace the sensor coil, if
any reading is well out of specification.
10. Reconnect all wiring as removed for testing.
TE
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The sensor coil mounted near the flywheel. On all motors, except the 80
Jet-175 Hp (1726/2589cc) V4N6 outboards, the sensor coil is mounted
under the dead center of the flywheel. On these, 900 outboards, the sensor
coil is referred to as a timer base, because it is mounted under other ignition
system components, like the stator. However, the optical sensor used on
600 outboards is mounted, along with the timing wheel, ABOVE the flywheel.
Two very different procedures are therefore provided. On for all 900 CV and
LV motors from the 65 Jet through the 300 hp V8 and another for the 600
80 Jet-175 hp LV outboards.
All 90 0 Outboards
• See Figures 38, 39, 40, 41, 42 and 43
The 65 Jet-115 Hp (1632cc) CV4 motors, along with the 120-300 hp
(2000/3000/4000cc) LV4N6N8 motors all use a sensor coil assembly that is
mounted centrally beneath the flywheel and stator. Because of the coils
positioning on these models, it is often referred to as the timer base
assembly.
On all 90 0 models, the sensor coil is accessible once the flywheel and
1-piece stator assembly is removed.
A brash bushing is in integral part of the coil, which has a very close
tolerance with the upper bearing and seal assembly. The bushing rotates as
the spark is retarded or advanced. Once the coil is removed, be sure to
thoroughly check for dirt, debris, chips or damage that might prevent the
timer base from rotating freely.
fl
~
!J econne:?~
~
Timer base
& sensor assy.
~
~!
Fig. 40 Disconnect the wiring and
loosen the retainers ...
 IGNITION AND ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 4-21
Fig.41 ... then lift the sensor coil from Fig. 42 Thoroughly inspect the sensor
the powerhead coil...
1. Remove the Flywheel, as detailed under Powerhead.
2. Remove the Charge Coil, as detailed earlier in this section.
3. Tag and disconnect the sensor coil wiring.
• As with all outboard wiring, take careful note of how the coil wires
TSM
are routed to ensure they will not be damaged by moving components
(such as the flywheel).
4. Remove the screws securing the sensor coil/timer base retaining
clips and then carefully lift the coil from the powerhead.
5. Thoroughly inspect the coil's integral brass bushing for dirt, debris,
chips or other damage that might prevent it from rotating freely once
installed. Replace the coil assembly, as necessary.
6. Check bushing's mating surface on the powerhead for dirt, debris,
chips or damage and clean or repair, as necessary.
To install:
7. Apply a light coating of Evinrude/Johnson Moly Lube, or equivalent
assembly lubricant to the bearing surface on the powerhead and to the
sensor coil bushing.
8. Apply a light coating of Evinrude/Johnson Outboard Lubricant, or
equivalent 2-stroke engine oil to the sensor coil retainer ring groove.
9. Gently compress the retainer ring and install the sensor coil, properly
routing the wiring as noted during removal.
10. Install the retaining clips and screws, then tighten to 25-35 inch Ibs.
(3-4 Nm).
11. Install the Charge Coil.
12. Install the Flywheel.
All 60 0 Outboards
• See Figures 44, 45, 46, 47, 48 and 49
On the 80 Jet-175 hp (1726/2589cc) 60 0 V4/V6 motors, the optical timing
sensor is mounted to the flywheel cover and works in conjunction with a
Fig. 45 Loosen the screws for the small
Fig. 44 Free the sensor coil return spring and ...
Troy's Service Manuals
Fig.43 ... and bushing for wear or
damage
timing wheel. One advantage of this setup is the relative ease of
serviceability that comes from mounting the sensor on TOP of the flywheel
(instead of underneath as on the 90 0 motors).
The following procedure may be performed with the flywheel cover in
place on the powerhead, or removed from the powerhead (if this was
necessary for some other service or repair).
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety.
2. Remove the timing wheel/sensor cover for access.
3. Tag and disconnect the timing sensor plug from the sensor itself.
4. Lift the sensor support return spring free of the post on the flywheel
cover.
5. Remove the 2 screws from the small sensor support retainer and lift
off the retainer.
6. Remove the 3 screws from the larger sensor support retainer and lift
off the retainer.
7. Lift the sensor support free of the flywheel cover. Turn the support
over and remove the two screws securing the sensor to the support.
To install:
8. Insert the timing sensor onto the support from the back side. Secure
the sensor to the support ring with the two screws. Tighten the screws to 10-
14 inch Ibs. (1.1-1.6 Nm).
9. Apply a light coating of Evinrude/Johnson Triple-Guard, or equivalent
marine grease to the sliding surfaces of the support ring.
10. Position the sensor support onto the flywheel cover. Place the large
and small sensor support retainers on the flywheel cover and secure the
retainers with five screws. Rotate the sensor support from stop-to-stop,
checking for binding or rough spots. If binding occurs, check for adequate
lubrication or replace the sensor support.
11. Connect one end of the sensor return spring to the sensor support
and the opposite end to the post on the flywheel cover.
Fig. 46 ... and large retainers ...